Trail & Timberline #1027

CLIMBING WHAM RIDGE 20

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WOLF RECOVERY 28

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LAWN LAKE DAM DISASTER 32

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TEN PASS LOOP 36

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The Colorado Mountain Club • Summer 2015 • Issue 1027 • www.cmc.org

A Rocky

Mountain SUMMER

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Letter from the Executive Director Summer in the Backcountry

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here will you find adventure this summer? If you’re a member of the Colorado Mountain Club, chances are you’ve already started planning trips to new destinations around the state and likely revisiting your well-known, favorite spots as well. Coloradoans love the fact that we get to experience four distinct seasons, each with its own personality and opportunities to experience the outdoors.

It’s that transition from spring to summer that’s usually the most anticipated by those of us who love the mountains. You can get out and climb a new peak, ride your favorite single-track trail, camp and sit around a campfire, and even backcountry ski.

Everything is in play!

Here at the CMC we know how much our members travel in search of adventure, particularly in the summer months.

Therefore, this season we’re developing partnerships in mountain towns around the state so our members can access discounted lodging and backcountry retailers in many of those destinations you’ll be traveling to.

We’re also continuing to add to the array of discounts you can access by being a CMC member and will be hosting a range of special events and stewardship projects you can get involved in this summer. And—as we’ve become so well known for—we’ll be offering hundreds of free hikes led by CMC volunteers again this summer, and dozens of technical classes will be available and more accessible than ever.

In addition to our work adding to our member benefits and activities, this summer we’re working with CMC leadership to restructure elements of our club in an effort to better allow for the expansion of chapters around the state, more closely coordinate communication, and simplify our member dues structure.

We’re poised for growth here at the Colorado Mountain Club and couldn’t be more excited for the future. One of the best ways we can grow is by offering more activities and we’d love your help. If you’re able to get involved with the Club this summer by leading hikes, assisting our Youth Education Program, volunteering at special events, or working on a stewardship project, we’d love to hear from you! For a range of opportunities this summer, check out www.

cmc.org/members/volunteer or simply email your interest to volunteer@cmc.org. Enjoy your summer in the Rockies!

See you on the trails,

Scott Robson Executive Director

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20 Wham Ridge and the CMC Summer Outing of 1941

36 The Ten Pass Loop

28 Wolves: A Vital Part of the Rocky Mountain Ecosystem

40 Tales of Toponymics, Part II

A first ascent, and a modern-day climb in the San Juans

By John Lacher

Will the wolf ever return to Colorado?

By Rod Martinez

A classic Colorado hike into the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness

By Robert Watkins

A peek at naming peaks

By Woody Smith

32 The Lawn Lake Dam Disaster

Hikes to historic dam sites in Rocky Mountain National Park

By Jay Fell

Summer 2015 Trail & Timberline • Issue 1027 • www.cmc.org

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Departments 01 Letter from the Executive Director 06 On the Outside 08 Mission Accomplishments

Learn the latest from the membership, conservation, and youth education departments, as well as news from the Mountaineering Museum, CMC Press, Year of the Mountaineer, and the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative.

14 Around Colorado

Find a local CMC chapter and get involved!

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On the Cover

16 Safety First Essentials for hiking with dogs.

By Janice Bennett

24 Pathfinder

How to capture great outdoor photos.

By Dan Orcutt

42 CMC Adventure Travel

Want to get away? Wander the world with your friends at the CMC on these classic trips.

45 End of the Trail

Remembering those who have passed.

Ice Lake in the San Juan Range.

Frank Burzynski

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TRAIL & TIMBERLINE

The official publication of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1918.

Editor Sarah Gorecki editor@cmc.org

Designer Jessica D. Case Advertising Sales

Kyla Gallagher advertising@cmc.org

Volunteer Editors Jodi Jennings Sherry Richardson

The Colorado Mountain Club 710 10th Street, Suite 200 Golden, Colorado 80401 303-279-3080 The CMC is a 501 (c)(3) charitable organization.

www.cmc.org The Colorado Mountain Club is organized to ▶ unite the energy, interest, and knowledge of the students, explorers, and lovers of the mountains of Colorado; ▶ collect and disseminate information regarding the Rocky Mountains on behalf of science, literature, art, and recreation; ▶ stimulate public interest in our mountain areas; ▶ encourage the preservation of forests, flowers, fauna, and natural scenery; and ▶ render readily accessible the alpine attractions of this region. © 2015 Colorado Mountain Club

All Rights Reserved

Trail & Timberline (ISSN 0041-0756) is published quarterly by the Colorado Mountain Club located at 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401.

Periodicals postage paid at Golden, Colorado, and additional offices. Subscriptions are $20 per year; single copies are $5.

POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to Trail & Timberline, 710 10th Street, Suite 200, Golden, Colorado 80401.

Advertisements in Trail & Timberline do not constitute an endorsement by the Colorado Mountain Club.

Please recycle this magazine.

Printed on 10% post-consumer waste recycled paper.

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For Members member benefits

→ Join us on over 3,000 annual trips, hikes, and activities in the state’s premiere mountain-adventure organization. → Expand your knowledge and learn new skills with our schools, seminars, and events. → Support our award-winning Youth Education Program for mountain leadership. → Protect Colorado’s wild lands and backcountry recreation experiences. → Enjoy exclusive discounts to the American Mountaineering Museum. → Travel the world with your friends through CMC Adventure Travel. → Receive a 20% discount on all CMC Press purchases and start your next adventure today. → It pays to be a member. Enjoy discounts of up to 30% from retailers and corporate partners. See www.cmc.org/benefits for details. → Receive the Shared Member Rates of other regional mountaineering clubs and a host of their perks and benefits, including lodging.

Visit cmc.org/Join/MountainClubPartners

Give

Your support helps our programs reach new heights! Give online today at cmc.org/support.

Make your support last all year by becoming a Peaks Partner with a recurring donation of $5 or more per month. Sign up today at cmc.org!

Charitable bequests of any amount help ensure the sustainability of CMC for generations to come. A planned gift does not need to be large to make a difference. Learn more about the 21st Century Circle at cmc.org.

For questions about donations, workplace giving, gifts of stock, or planned gifts, please contact us at give@cmc.org or 303.996.2752.

Volunteer Efforts

If you want to share your time and expertise, give back to the club by volunteering on a variety of projects, from trail restoration to stuffing envelopes. Visit www.cmc.org/volunteer for a complete listing.

Contact Us

Our Membership Services team can answer general questions every weekday at 303.279.3080, or by email at cmcoffice@cmc.org.

The Colorado Mountain Club thanks the Scientific and Cultural Facilities District and its citizens for their continuing support. www.scfd.org

The Colorado Mountain Club is a proud member of Community Shares of Colorado.

It PAYS to be a member! ▶ 40% off admission at the American Mountaineering Museum

▶ 20% off titles from The Mountaineers Books

▶ 10% at Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder

▶ 10% at Bent Gate Mountaineering, Golden

▶ 10% at Wilderness Exchange Unlimited, Denver

Not a member?

▶ 10% at Mountain Chalet, Colorado Springs ▶ 10% at The Trailhead, Buena Vista

▶ 10% at Rock'n and Jam'n, Thornton/Centennial Visit www.cmc.org/join Trail & Timberline

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On the Outside Ouzel Lake, Rocky Mountain National Park. Dawn Wilson

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Mission Accomplishments Enrich Your Summer with a Rocky Mountain National Park Wildflower Hike

By Jeff Golden, CMC Digital Marketing Associate

observing our state’s bountiful wildflowers can lead to a deeply enriched hiking experience, regardless of other objectives.

The CMC will be offering a special wildflower hike series this spring and summer in conjunction with the Rocky Mountain National Park Centennial Celebration.

Colorado Native Plant Masters will join these excursions to provide Shy wood nymph (Moneses unique and detailed insight about uniflora) flourishes in cool, shady, wet locations. the surrounding flora.

Photo by Linda Koshio Rogers The hikes have already begun, seeking out early-season SPRING IS A CELEBRATION OF LIFE. wildflowers in May and June.

Playful black bear cubs romp through the Prime blooming time will come in July and meadows, graceful hawks patrol the skies to August, and a few late-season outings will be feed their young, and the hills come alive with scheduled in September. The trips will vary a vibrant array of spectacular wildflowers. from short one- to three-mile jaunts on flat Most Colorado residents can identify terrain to more rugged five- to eight-mile our state flower, the blue columbine. climbs. The types of wildflowers encountered What about the red columbine, old-man- will vary greatly depending on the time of of-the-mountain, shy wood nymph, or year, elevation, and climate zone. Where and green-flowered mitrewort? Identifying and when can you see yellow pond lilies, sweet-

smelling bog orchids, tiny blue alpine forgetme-nots, delicate twinflowers, oddly-named pipsissewa, or frosty ball thistle? Sign up for multiple hikes to find out!

The CMC not only played an instrumental role in helping form Rocky Mountain National Park, but also in preserving its treasures. The National Park’s early days included commercialized activities called Wildflower Excursions. It was not uncommon for trainloads of passengers to return to the city with arms full of plucked wildflowers. In response, the CMC lobbied for the Columbine Law, which was passed in 1925. The legislation made it a misdemeanor punishable with a monetary fine for picking more than 25 columbine flowers in a day.

Take a day—or several—this summer and explore the splendor of Rocky Mountain National Park’s wildflowers with the Colorado Mountain Club. For a full schedule of upcoming hikes, visit www. cmc.org/yearofthemountaineer or www. cmc.org/calendar and select “Year of the Mountaineer” hikes. △

Invite a New Member to Hike with the Colorado Mountain Club!

By Brenda Porter, Director of Membership and Adventure Travel

THERE ARE MANY WAYS FOR PEOPLE OF ALL AGES to engage in the Colorado Mountain Club—through mountain recreation, education, conservation, and special events.

CMC data shows that members who get involved with the CMC keep coming back for more activities and events; they tend to keep their membership active year after year. Nearly 800 members across the CMC volunteer to lead trips, instruct outdoor skills courses, or get involved behind the scenes with their Group. However, a number of people join the CMC, never participate, and then fail to renew their membership the following year. If you know of a member who fits that description, invite them on a hike!

Our local Groups are developing fresh ways to invite new members to head to the mountains with the CMC. In May 2015, the Denver Group Council sponsored a “surge” of hikes specifically for new members. Volunteers made phone calls to members who have joined recently to invite them onto the trails. The Pikes Peak and Fort Collins Groups welcome their new members by name in their newsletters.

Both Groups schedule specific hikes for new members.

CMC has a new Meetup group for events and happy hours, to gather 8

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mountain enthusiasts for social activities. You can join for free at http:// www.meetup.com/Colorado-Mountain-Club/.

CMC Membership Services offers monthly online orientations for new members across the state to learn about the Club’s many offerings, giving new members an opportunity to ask questions and get acquainted with the CMC website. Upcoming orientations are on June 16, July 16, and August 18; see the online calendar at cmc.org to register. △ Frank Burzynski shows off the Colorado flag.

Photo by Carole Adler

Year of the Mountaineer: In Search of our Best Selves

By Jason Kolaczkowski, CMC Board Member

THE FIRST THING YOU HEAR is a loud grind and then a pop. It’s like the whole of your body vibrates with sound. And then you collapse. That’s what an anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) tear sounds like— at least to you.

Sadly, it’s a sound I’ve become familiar with. I’ve torn my right ACL three times since I turned 30 years old. It’s a full 18 to 24 months before you really gain the stability and strength in the replaced ligament that would qualify as “normal.” So, with three ACL tears since 2007, I’ve spent the better part of the last decade in some stage of physical rehabilitation.

It’s reached the point where I can recite the

Ascending Square Top Mountain A (13,794’) in March, hauling about 130 pounds of gear. Photo by Mike Zyzda

rehabilitation protocol by heart: »Weeks 1-2: pain management, range of motion, and re-establishing quadriceps control; »Weeks 3-6: load-limited strength training (e.g. seated leg press); »Weeks 7-12: introduce flat-surface walking; »Weeks 12-20: light jogging and light agility drills; »Weeks 20-80+: jumping, full agility, continued strength training, return to activities.

But the same glitch in my head that has kept me battling back from injury has helped to contribute to my mountaineering success.

Early this March, I put 25 pounds of gear on my body, another 40 pounds of gear in my pack, and 65 pounds of gear in my sled and started my way up Square Top Mountain A (13,794’) as a training climb in preparation for the “2015 Year of the Mountaineer” trip I am leading to Denali in June.

It wasn’t suffering, but it wasn’t exactly fun, either… until I looked back at the effort with a sense of accomplishment. Due to the

injuries, it was my first summit in true winter in just over two years.

In his famous “Go to the Moon” speech, President Kennedy said, “We choose to go to the moon. We choose to go to the moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard, because that goal will serve to organize and measure the best of our energies and skills....”

It is in the expending of supreme effort that we find the best of ourselves, if for no other reason than that our best is demanded. And is it not worth striving for these moments?

So, I go to Denali. Not because it is easy, but because it is hard. So, I put nearly double my body weight on my frame and trudge up a local mountain to prepare for that trip. So, I put forth the effort that is required if I am to attempt to approach my best self. △ From June 6–28, Jason Kolaczkowski is leading a team of CMC climbers on the Upper West Rib (or “Riblet”) route of Denali (20,320’), as part of the 2015 Year of the Mountaineer celebration. You can follow his climb as he posts dispatches from the mountain at: http:// blog.cmc.org, and follow his team’s GPS track at: http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/ viewspots.jsp?glId=0nmVf4CAjXRxPifCyfqDc DZOLnYuTVzal.

Now offered by CMC Press: Sleeping on the Summits SLEEPING ON THE SUMMITS: Colorado Fourteener High Bivys chronicles a project never done before. Mountain geographer Dr. Jon Kedrowski slept on the summit of all 54 Colorado Fourteeners—staying on the summit from sunset to sunrise—in just 95 days.

Roughly 750,000 people attempt to climb a Colorado Fourteener each year. Of those climbers, the majority start pre-dawn to avoid deadly afternoon thunderstorms. Now imagine doing just the opposite—climbing during the stormiest part of each day and then sleeping on every Fourteener summit, from sunset to sunrise, in 95 days. With striking photography and expert analysis, authors Jon Kedrowski and Chris Tomer explain how they tracked and dodged storms above

treeline, climbed with maximum efficiency, and were treated to 54 stunning sunsets and sunrises while perched at over 14,000 feet.

Dr. Jon Kedrowski has authored papers on mountaineering, hiking trails, climate change, and protected area management in Colorado, Washington, and 192 pages, 12 x 9, 284 color Alaska. In addition to over photos, 7 maps, paperbound, 400 ascents of the Colorado $19.95, ISBN 978-1-937052-28-7 Fourteeners in all seasons, and AVAILABLE IN JUNE Mount Rainier in Washington many times, he has climbed four of the seven continental summits is fully certified by both the National (Everest, Denali, Elbrus, and Aconcagua). Chris Tomer is a meteorologist Weather Association and the American at KDVR/KWGN-TV in Denver. Chris Meteorological Society. △ Trail & Timberline

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YEP participants experience the outdoors through hiking and climbing, during a spring break trip to Moab, Utah, in March.

Photos by Chanse Bemski

Connecting Youth to the Mountains through Overnight Camping Adventures

By Carmen Stagg, YEP Group Program Manager & Lead Instructor

THERE’S NOTHING QUITE LIKE SEEING THE STARS IN THE MOUNTAINS. There is something special about looking up at a starry sky on a clear night in the backcountry, something about being surrounded by stillness and darkness and nature—something that words can’t convey and lessons can’t teach. While there are many ways to learn about the mountains, the best way to really KNOW them is to spend quality time in them. Participants in the Youth Education Program’s overnight experiences have found that it is also a great way to get to know yourself.

Kayla Walker, one of YEP’s long-time camp participants, described it like this: “Spending time outdoors has just taught me how to step back, and take a moment out of my life, and just really appreciate the world around me and where I am, and how to just take a deep breath from all the crazy things that go on in our lives. That’s such a valuable skill and I wouldn’t have that without the outdoors.”

Sure, this is something most CMCers already know. There is a reason we have “a passion for the mountains.” Most of us have experienced their power ourselves, by spending time there. For a lot of youth, however, their experiences in the mountains may be fleeting or nonexistent. Regardless of how close they are geographically, spending a night in the mountains may feel worlds away.

The Youth Education Program has long prided itself in its legacy of “bringing the mountains to students,” supplementing classroom education with experiential lessons about geology, biology, ecology, and stewardship. These lessons provide students a glimpse into the varied world of outdoor education. Rock climbing field trips and adventure day camps give YEP participants even more insight into the thrills and wonders of the outdoors. Yet spending a night, or even a week in the mountains, is still a rare experience for a great majority of Front Range youth. Many teachers, parents, and scout troop leaders realize the benefit of immersive mountain experiences, yet restraints like access to gear and expertise prevent them from providing these overnight experiences for their students.

YEP is excited to meet this need by doing what it does best—giving more students more 10

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time outside. This year YEP is expanding its realm of outdoor experiences available to youth by adding overnight camps for school groups and backpacking expeditions for teens. YEP will facilitate a three-day overnight trip to the mountains for 40 students from ACL Academy in Colorado Springs, take a Girl Scout troop on a three-day overnight camping and climbing trip, and offer three week-long summer camps where participants will backpack, camp, and climb.

YEP looks forward to providing even more immersive mountain experiences to even more youth in the future. Overnight adventures require a lot of planning, coordination, and dedication from staff. But it is well worth the investment. For every overnight camping experience, there is opportunity for deep impact within every participant—in a different way than classroom lessons can provide. Friendships that last a lifetime are formed in a backcountry kitchen, around a campfire, or late at night in a tent. Every time I walk to a tent to remind kids it’s bedtime— sometimes once, twice, or even three times in a night—I try to remind myself that those few minutes they are up giggling past “lights out” will likely keep them connected for years to come. △ For more information on how to sign up for YEP’s overnight adventures, visit www.cmc.org/ teenventures.

Jeff Lowe’s Backpack on Display in CMC’s Mountaineering Museum

By Devyn Studer, Museum Manager

The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum

Top: Some of the contents of Jeff Lowe’s backpack. Left: Jeff Lowe’s backpack is now on display at the Museum after being frozen in place on the Eiger for twenty years. Photos

by Devyn Studer

The mission of the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum is to inspire in our visitors a greater appreciation for the mountains and for mountaineering, in all of its facets, including the cultural and inspirational qualities of the mountains and the sport; to help in the cause to preserve the mountains and the history of mountaineering; to educate our visitors and in so doing enhance their enjoyment and safety in the mountains. The Museum realizes this mission through exceptional exhibitions, education programs, lectures and speakers.

Join us the third Thursday of each month for our monthly Thirsty Thursday happy hours! www.mountaineeringmuseum.org CMC Member Admission: $3 Monday–Thursday: Open 9am–6pm Friday: Open 9am–4pm Saturday: Open 12pm–5pm

IN 1991, NEAR THE TOP OF THE NOTORIOUS SWISS PEAK the Eiger, legendary mountaineer Jeff Lowe was at the end of his rope, with nowhere to anchor, 50 feet from the summit ridge. There was a storm quickly approaching and 5,000 feet of vertical exposure below him. Lowe had been climbing alone for nine days, and was in the final push to finish the first ascent of his new route, Metanoia, which follows the center of the Eiger North Face. The quickly deteriorating conditions forced Lowe to untie from his rope, and leave his backpack in order to free solo to the ridge. A helicopter picked him up from the face, hours before a storm would engulf the route.

Lowe’s normal alpine ethic was to leave nothing behind, but on this day it was necessary for survival. He made plans to retrieve the pack the following season, but after a year without a chance to make it back, Lowe assumed that the sun had melted the ice screw holding the pack in place, allowing the pack to fall down the mountain.

Jeff Lowe’s pack remained frozen in ice and time just below the summit of the Eiger for 20 years. In 2009, two climbers came upon the backpack frozen solid into the ice, and used it as a welcome belay on their own alpine climb. Then, in 2011, Josh Wharton carved the pack from the ice and returned it to Lowe on the deck of the Bellevue Hotel

overlooking the great North Face. After days of letting the backpack thaw, Jeff Lowe began to pick out each of the contents, reliving his climb. The faded backpack held items such as a sleeping bag, goggles, a Therm-a-Rest, a Snickers bar, a compass, a headlamp, a Nalgene water bottle, a stove, and a bivy tent.

This pack, as well as other legendary mountaineering gear, is on display in the American Mountaineering Museum in Golden. Visitors can jump over a crevasse, climb into a port-a-ledge, hear the sounds of Everest, and try on old mountaineering gear.

The novice hiker can find inspiration for local adventures, and the seasoned alpinist can plan trips abroad. △ Trail & Timberline

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Conservation Department: Advocating for Your Public Lands

By Julie Mach, Conservation Director

CMC’S CONSERVATION DEPARTMENT works year-round to protect access to recreation on Colorado’s public lands. This spring we’ve celebrated a few successes but we’re always looking for members to get engaged in new and ongoing projects.

On February 19, the White House announced a long-awaited executive action which designated the new Browns Canyon National Monument. We encourage you to explore the area this summer and enjoy the Arkansas River, the variety of wildlife, and the abundance of lands with wilderness characteristics.

In January, the U.S. Forest Service announced the revised OverSnow Vehicle (OSV) Rule; now, Colorado forests will be assessing the need for winter travel planning. CMC’s Backcountry Snowsports Initiative needs to hear from you about where to prioritize protection for winter landscapes. Learn more at www.cmc.org/bsi.

CMC works closely with a variety of conservation and recreation organizations to monitor policy that impacts access to Colorado’s public lands. This spring, legislation was introduced to shift control of federal lands to state ownership which could mean your favorite national forest or BLM recreation area could be sold for development.

Not only can Colorado not afford to manage these vast landscapes but public access and pristine natural resources would be secondary to revenue generation. Over 74% of Colorado voters oppose giving away public lands and CMC is working to keep our land public.

CMC continues to monitor and provide input on federal land

management planning processes and is participating in two plans for southern Colorado. The Rio Grande National Forest is revising their forest plan, which will guide management for the next 20 years; learn more at www.riograndeplanning.mindmixer.com. Additionally, the BLM’s Royal Gorge Field Office has started their resource management plan revision process. CMC Conservation Director Julie Mach was recently appointed to the BLM’s Front Range Resource Advisory Committee, which will be actively engaged in the planning process. △ PROJECT NAME

LOCATION

DATES

Dakan Mountain Road (Denver/Pikes Peak Group)

Pike National Forest, South Platte District

June 13-14

Badger Flats Habitat Restoration

Pike National Forest, South Park District

June 27–28 & Sept.

12–13

Blanca Wetlands Trail Signing Project

BLM San Luis Valley Field Office

July 2–3

South Platte Three Mile Creek (Denver Group)

Pike National Forest, South Platte District

July 18

White River Trail

BLM White River Field Office

July 31– Aug. 2

Midland Hills Trail Maintenance and Construction

BLM Royal Gorge Field Office

Sept.

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New Stewardship Team to Lead Summer Trail Projects

By Todd Loubsky, CMC Stewardship Coordinator

TO CONTINUE THE CMC tradition of land stewardship and to engage a new generation of CMC members, the Conservation Department is excited to announce a new program—the CMC Stewardship Team. Morgan Anderson and Michelle Holdener have been hired to organize conservation projects alongside our land management agency partners and, of course, CMC members. For example, the team has plans to work with the Denver Group on a bridge project in the Pike National Forest to provide additional boots on the ground, leadership capacity, technical skills, and a little bit of youthful energy.

The program will be funded through fee for service partnerships with land management agencies and conservation organizations, as well as private donations and grant funds.

Currently, the Stewardship Team has plans to work primarily on land managed by the Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service. The team will be equipped to take on technical trail projects, habitat restoration work, resource monitoring, community outreach, and volunteer leadership to address critical conservation issues on Colorado landscapes.

The Stewardship Team will also work 12 Trail & Timberline

to build and strengthen collaborative partnerships between CMC, land management agencies, and communities through public outreach, education, training, and volunteer opportunities.

Working on conservation projects such as trail work allows us to feel knowledgeable, important, and alive. I have watched many people beam with pride and confidence after completing one small component (say, setting one rock…) of a massive trail project (…in a 450-foot retaining wall). To those of us who have been fortunate to witness this empowerment in action, it makes sense as to why people volunteer and take “volunteer vacations” to work on trail projects. We encourage YOU to volunteer on a trail project this summer!

Stay tuned for more details about Stewardship Team members, where they will be, and what they will be doing this summer at www.cmc.org/stewardship. △ Top: Buckskin Pass, Maroon Bells Wilderness, White River National Forest. Photo by Julie Mach Bottom: Installing post and cable to prevent resource damage at the Badger Flats Habitat Restoration Project on the Pike National Forest. Photo by Jean Smith.

Using Leave No Trace Practices to Protect our Fourteeners

By Lloyd Athearn, Executive Director, Colorado Fourteeners Initiative

COLORADO’S 14,000-FOOT PEAKS offer a diverse array of hiking and climbing experiences that are unique nationally.

From straightforward summit hikes to more involved rock scrambles, the 14ers offer hikers a multitude of options for personal challenge and recreational enjoyment in some of the most spectacular places in the nation. The beauty, accessibility, and lack of technical difficulty for most peaks draw hundreds of thousands of hikers annually to the 14ers.

How to keep the 14ers accessible for hiking and climbing use while protecting their natural integrity for the future prompted creation of the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative (CFI) some 21 years ago. The Colorado Mountain Club was one of CFI’s six founding partners, and members continue to be involved through stewardship and education efforts.

Many 14er hikers may be unaware that the beautiful alpine flowers they pass on the trail are living at the edge of survival. These plants are growing at higher elevations than most plant life on earth, and have found a way to live in incredibly inhospitable conditions: a short growing season, dramatic daily temperature swings, high UV radiation, erratic precipitation, and desiccating winds.

However, they have a serious vulnerability: They are extremely sensitive to trampling.

As few as 10 footsteps are enough to set back growth dramatically or even kill some tundra plants. Once trampled, alpine tundra plants are 10 to 1,000 times slower to regrow than plants growing just a few hundred feet lower in the more resilient subalpine forest.

Protecting the high alpine ecosystems is especially important since many tundra plants are quite rare. Every time the Forest Service plans a new summit trail, it conducts botanical and wildlife reviews to ensure the new trail alignment will not harm sensitive species. It is not uncommon for plants to be found near popular 14er hiking routes that are rare in Colorado, rare in the United States or, sometimes, rare globally. For example, in 2008, when conducting the botanical inventory of the North Maroon Peak approach trail, the survey noted a species of forkedleaf moonwort that had not been previously described in the taxonomic literature. With such rare and fragile plant cover in the high alpine areas of Colorado, it is imperative that we all do our part to ensure that hiking and

Top: Staying on the trail and leashing dogs are important LNT steps to take when hiking 14ers—especially on high-use peaks like Mount Bierstadt. Photo by Lloyd Athearn/CFI Left: Forest Service 14er Peak Manager Loretta McEllhiney looks for a rare plant on Maroon Peak near where the trail corridor will go. Note how she is stepping on a rock to avoid trampling plants. Photo by Lloyd Athearn/CFI

climbing occurs in a sustainable way.

The first step in promoting sustainable hiking is constructing planned summit trails that have a maintainable alignment and grade, avoid sensitive areas, and are built of durable materials. Prior to CFI’s establishment, only one of the 14ers had a planned trail; all of the others were just routes climbers trampled into the tundra as they followed obvious terrain features from trailhead to summit. These routes generally went straight up the fall line, were heavily eroded, and caused climbers to widen and braid the trail as they looked for more stable footing on the nearest patch of tundra. Ensuring that every 14er has at least one planned, sustainably designed route to the summit is CFI’s overriding goal.

The second step in ensuring long-term sustainability is educating hikers about minimum-impact practices. More than a decade ago CFI and the Forest Service worked with the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics to develop a series of protocols for recreating on the fragile 14ers and other high peaks. The practices include: 1) plan ahead

and prepare, 2) travel and camp on durable surfaces, 3) dispose of waste properly, 4) leave what you find, 5) respect wildlife, and 6) be considerate of other visitors. With hiking use growing significantly over the last decade, these recommendations are being updated to reflect the greater need for care when more people are recreating in these sensitive alpine ecosystems.

CFI has developed a variety of approaches for conveying minimum-impact, LNT practices to 14er hikers. Specially trained “Peak Stewards” spend time on 14ers—especially the most-climbed peaks near Denver—to help educate hikers. Look for them this summer in their new black vests. CFI’s YouTube channel (www.youtube.com/user/CO14ersInitiative) has more than 40 educational videos. One series of videos explains in greater detail the unique and fragile ecosystem, while another covers LNT-related topics, including the importance of packing out human waste and keeping dogs on leash. Finally, CFI, the Forest Service, and Leave No Trace will be focusing attention on reducing hiker-caused impacts on Mount Bierstadt, the highest-use 14er in the state, as part of an LNT “Hot Spot” program this summer. The LNT “Traveling Trainers” will be on Bierstadt during the week of July 13–20 to put on workshops and help raise awareness about reducing impacts. △ Trail & Timberline

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Around Colorado Our groups across the State WE ARE THE CMC! The Colorado Mountain Club is the state’s leading organization dedicated to adventure, recreation, conservation, and education.

Founded in 1912, the CMC has helped Coloradoans enjoy the mountains for more than a century. The Club acts as a gateway to the outdoors for novices and experts alike, offering an array of year-round activities and events.

The CMC’s sixteen local chapters host a variety of outdoor activities including hiking, backpacking, mountaineering, rock climbing, skiing, and many other outdoor activities. See cmc.org/Calendar for a current listing. Our chapters also include a group for people living outside the state (Friends of Colorado), a group for members 25 years and younger (Alpine Start), and a group for CMC mission supporters who don’t participate in CMC activities (Friends of the CMC).

Alpine Start

Contact: Laurie Normandeau laurienormandeau@cmc.org Website: cmc.org/AlpineStart This group, for people 25 years old and younger, was developed to encourage membership in young adults. Thanks to generous donations from CMC members, we have recently hired a Young Adult Specialist to help jump-start trips and leadership development for young adults age 18–25. Young adults from all groups are encouraged to participate in Alpine Start trips and courses.

Aspen

Contact: Carol Kurt kurtskarma@aol.com Website: cmc.org/Aspen Aspen Group members mainly live in the Roaring Fork Valley; however, some members live across the country and have special connections to Aspen. In addition to mountain recreation activities, Aspen hosts picnics, an annual banquet, and slide shows on winter evenings.

Boulder

Chair (Acting): Andy Cook Andy_r_cooke@hotmail.com Website: CMC.org/Boulder The Boulder Group has a clubroom at 633 South Broadway, Unit K, in Boulder, where they host new member meetings and programs. The Boulder Group operates the Brainard Cabin and Arestua Hut in the Arapaho-Roosevelt National Forest. The Boulder Group also publishes a free online trail map of the Brainard Lake Recreation Area.

Colorado Wilderness Families

Chair: Scott Burger chinadaddy@comcast.net Website: cmc.org/CoWildernessFamilies

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This group is for families who gather together to enjoy the outdoors safely. Activities are generally designed for the participation of the whole family—including babies to early teens—and include overnight camping or “cabining” hikes, wall climbs, and map and compass practices.

Denver Chair: David Hutchison dwhutchison3@gmail.com Website: cmc.org/Denver Newsletter: The Mile High Mountaineer The Denver Group is the largest CMC Group and holds most of its programs and school lectures at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden.

Activities are scheduled almost every day of the week, including weekends and holidays. New member meetings—for new and prospective members—feature informative and interesting videos and briefings on hiking skills and trip policies, and are strongly recommended for all new members. For schedules and more information, visit cmc.org/Calendar.

Denver also has groups of people who meet and recreate together around specific interests.

Additional fees may apply for these special interest “sections.”

• Rocky Mountain Over the Hill Gang: for 50+ year-olds • Trailblazers: for members in their 20s and 30s • Photo Section: for photography lovers • Fly Fishing: everything fly fishing

El Pueblo Chair: Jill Mattoon jill.mattoon@judicial.state.co.us Website: cmc.org/ElPueblo The El Pueblo Group provides outdoor experiences for people in the “un-crowded” southern and southeastern parts of Colorado. El Pueblo holds several social and educational functions each year, including a potluck dinner and monthly meetings with entertaining guest speakers.

The monthly meetings are held the first Friday of most months at 7:00 PM in the parish hall at Ascension Episcopal Church, located at 18th St. and Grand Ave. in Pueblo.

Friends of Colorado

Contact: Scott Otteman scotteman@aol.com Website: cmc.org/FriendsofColorado The Friends of Colorado Group was created in 1987 to support the many CMC members who live out of state but still want to take part in CMC activities when visiting Colorado. Friends of Colorado members receive all the benefits of being a CMC member; visit cmc.org/Join/MemberBenefits for a complete list of member benefits.

Friends of Routt Backcountry

Chair: Leslie Lovejoy leslie@lovejoygraphics.com Website: cmc.org/FriendsRB Located in Steamboat Springs, this group was created by the CMC during our adoption of the Backcountry Snowsports Alliance. The Backcountry Snowsports Initiative supports non-motorized winter recreation through advocacy and on-the-ground efforts.

Fort Collins

Chair: Ward Whicker Ward.Whicker@ColoState.EDU Website: cmc.org/FtCollins Newsletter: http://fortcmc.org/newsletters.html The Fort Collins Group has members of all ages from Fort Collins, Loveland, Greeley, and the surrounding communities. The Fort Collins Group is the fourth largest CMC group, and they have had a busy year so far. The group holds monthly programs on the third Wednesday of the month, featuring guest speakers on outdoor topics. The group is looking forward to the upcoming summer BBQ and annual dinner later this fall. For

Summer in Herman Gulch. Photo by John Fernandez

Friends of the CMC

Members who support the mission of the CMC but don’t plan to take part in Club activities. This membership is perfect for people who are too busy to take part in trips and schools, but who strongly believe in CMC’s work in conservation and educating youth.

Get Involved in Your CMC

more information on upcoming activities visit cmc.org/Calendar/Trips and Search on the Fort Collins Group.

Gore Range

Chair: Colleen Widlak cwidlak@aol.com Website: cmc.org/GoreRange Many Gore Range Group members live in the shadow of the magnificent Gore Range in Summit and Eagle Counties. Members from as far south as Salida and north to Kremmling and from out of state are also part of the group. A Gore Range Group newsletter is sent out twice a year, as well as periodic emails.

Longs Peak

Chair: Mike Pippis mike.coloradoguy@gmail.com Website: cmc.org/LongsPeak The Longs Peak Group has members in Longmont, Lyons, Erie, Louisville, Mead, Niwot, and the surrounding area. Formed in 1963, and named for the majestic peak which dominates the western horizon, Longs Peak offers a range of outdoor activities throughout the state.

Pikes Peak

Chair: Collin Powers powerscollin@yahoo.com Website: cmc.org/PikesPeak The Pikes Peak Group, located in Colorado Springs, offers a variety of outdoor activities, educational opportunities, and social events. Pikes Peak has two special “sections”: “SESI” is the section for singles and stands for “Singles Enjoying Similar Interests,” and “20/30-Something” is the Pikes Peak section for members in their 20s and 30s. Monthly meetings feature speaker presentations on regional activities, local history, and trips to exotic places. A potluck dinner is held in May; the Annual Dinner is held in November.

San Juan

Chair: Laura Scull Scull_l@fortlewis.edu Website: cmc.org/SanJuan The San Juan Group provides outdoor experiences in southwestern Colorado and adjacent Utah and New Mexico. Meetings are held on the third Tuesday of September, November, January, March, and May. At each meeting, an hourlong presentation is usually given, followed by a business meeting.

Shining Mountains

Chair: Maureen Denig mpdenig@hotmail.com Website: cmc.org/ShiningMountains The Shining Mountains Group serves CMC members in Estes Park, Loveland, Lyons, and the surrounding area. Rocky Mountain National Park benefits from the many volunteer stewardship projects sponsored by the group. “The Friendly Bunch,” organized to help singles of all ages get acquainted with each other, hosts a variety of activities; while most participants are single, all CMC members are welcome.

Western Slope

Chair: Stanley Nunnally stanleynunnally@yahoo.com Website: cmc.org/WesternSlope The Western Slope Group has members throughout the Grand Junction area. Monthly meetings include educational speakers and environmental issue updates, as well as stories and tales from CMC trips. Meetings are held at 7:00 pm on the first Wednesday of each month (with no meeting in June, July, or August) at the Masonic Lodge, 2400 Consistory Court, in Grand Junction. The Canyon Call newsletter and periodic emails keep members informed of upcoming meetings, educational activities, adventures, Club trips, and local activities of interest.

•There are many volunteer opportunities throughout the Club. All group activities are led by dedicated and skilled volunteers. Visit cmc. org/Volunteer for more information or contact your local group.

•To ensure the continued enjoyment of Colorado’s pristine places, the CMC leads efforts to protect wild and public lands with its conservation and stewardship programs. cmc.org/ Conservation •The CMC’s Youth Education Program inspires confidence and academic achievement in youth through school programs, summer camps, afterschool programs, and young adult programs. cmc.org/Youth •The Club has published its quarterly magazine, Trail & Timberline, since 1918, and operates the CMC Press with more than 45 titles in print. cmc.org/Store •The American Mountaineering Museum celebrates the rich history of the mountains and mountaineering. mountaineeringmuseum.org

Mountain Education

The CMC offers many educational opportunities through our regional groups. CMC courses appeal to people new to the outdoors as well as people looking for new ways to enjoy the mountains and expand their personal horizons.

These affordable schools encourage individuals to improve their outdoor skill sets.

CMC instructors are volunteers and members of the Club. They are experienced users of the outdoors who have polished their skills on Club trips and demonstrated their leadership abilities. Safety and personal responsibility, respect for the natural environment, and leadership skills are stressed in all courses. Students of all ages gain the skills and knowledge to comfortably participate in mountain trips.

The larger CMC groups offer more than 61 schools and seminars. Smaller groups sometimes host instructors from other group schools for weekend seminars. Volunteer committees in the groups develop the curricula, so there are some variations between the group educational offerings. See cmc.org/schools for a calendar of upcoming schools.

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Safety first

Essentials for Hiking with Dogs Safety Tips for Keeping Your Dog Safe and Happy on the Trail

Water attracts dogs, but also provides a scenic backdrop for photos.

Photo by Janice Bennett

BY JANICE BENNETT

C

olorado hiking trails offer a superb, year-round opportunity to share the benefits of being outdoors with your canine companion. Dogs love adventures, which offer new scents, stimulation, and a break from daily routine. A bored dog may dig in the yard or chew on furniture, but a tired dog is a happy dog. Hiking is good for both dog and master—it gives both an opportunity to meet other people and dogs and is a great way to bond with your pet.

Before saying, “Let’s go!” within earshot of your dog, some essentials should be considered. For example, is your dog physically capable of the hike you are planning?

Is the trail dog-friendly? Does your dog know the basic commands? Do you know the ten essentials for dogs and canine first aid? Are you aware of leash laws, poisonous plants for dogs, and how to keep your dog under control when encountering a horse or wildlife? The answers to these questions can prevent canine injury, loss, and death, as well as personal injury.

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Know Your Dog

Not all dogs are born hikers but most will readily go wherever their master takes them, prepared or not. It is important that owners consider whether or not their dog is physically capable of the hike and any special precautions that might be necessary based on their dog’s breed, age, and current state of health. Your dog should be current on vaccines, as well as flea, tick, and heartworm prevention.

If your dog is overweight and a notorious couch potato, for example, it would be a mistake to climb a Fourteener with him, unless you want to carry home an exhausted, 80-pound animal with bloody pads. Like us, dogs can’t be expected to undertake a strenuous hike without gradual physical preparation. A dog’s paws bleed easily until they become calloused from regular exercise, so be sure to break them in before the hike and bring dog boots for snow, ice, and rough terrain.

A small, hairless dog may easily suffer hypothermia, while an Alaskan Husky may not tolerate strenuous activity during the summer. Dogs not accustomed to altitude can succumb to altitude sickness. Puppies cannot handle scrambling over rocks before their joints and bones are fully formed. Every dog is different, so plan and dress accordingly. A toy breed may require a dog carrier and sweater. A cold, wet bandana tied around a large dog’s neck will help with the heat. Plan the length, season, and difficulty of hikes according to your dog’s age, breed, and ability.

A Little Training Goes a Long Way

Before going hiking, consider enrolling your dog in a basic obedience class, a small investment that will help ensure your dog’s safety. The basic commands—sit, stay, down, come, off, heel, and no—are mandatory for dog trekkers and their owners. Be aware that all dogs have certain social, territorial, and predatory traits that may be intensified in an outdoor environment.

Even if your dog is well trained, you cannot predict with certainty how she will behave in the wild. If you want to let your dog run off-leash in designated areas, the heel command is a must for safety reasons. If your dog does not always come when called, either use a leash or leave her at home.

Stanley enjoys romping in the snow.

Photo by Alan Lipkin

Find a Dog-friendly Trail

Not all trails welcome dog tails. In fact, most national and state parks prohibit dogs in many areas, including popular places like Canyonlands National Park. According to the National Park Service, dogs are not allowed there on hiking trails or anywhere in the backcountry. They may not even accompany groups traveling by four-wheeldrive vehicle, mountain bike, or boat. Even in the limited places where pets are allowed, they must be leashed at all times. One reason is that the desert can be deadly for pets, where they can quickly die from heat exhaustion.

Be aware of Colorado dog laws. Except for designated areas, dogs must be kept on a leash at all times when not on their owner’s property. There are many reasons to keep dogs leashed, according to authorities.

Dogs can bite people. Some people are afraid of strange dogs. Dogs often chase wildlife and may disturb native plant life.

Loose dogs present a hazard for mountain bikers. Many owners feel that Colorado’s open spaces provide an opportunity for their pooch to run free but may be unaware that Animal Law Enforcement has been cracking down on violators in recent years due to complaints. Repeat offenses may involve 90 days in jail, and tickets are often issued in the parking lot before anyone hits the trails.

Dog regulations vary by area, so be sure to check in advance on regulations for the hiking trails you plan to visit with your dog. For specifics on the best dogfriendly trails in Colorado, Ania Savage’s guide, Best Hikes with Dogs Colorado (Mountaineers Books, 2005) is a good place to start. In addition to detailed information about trails that welcome dogs, Savage provides helpful advice about dog safety on the trail and includes a section on permits and regulations.

When choosing a trail, keep in mind the terrain. Is it friendly for your pet?

Some trails have hot surfaces that will burn tender paws, while others provide no shade for relief from the summer sun. Many dogs are unafraid of steep cliffs and dropoffs and, consequently, suffer serious falls.

Sharp rocks may produce lacerations. If a trail has heavy horse and/or mountain bike use, it would be best to avoid it.

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Left: If there are lakes and streams near the hiking trail, be prepared for emergency rescue. Right: Dog regulations are Colorado law and must be followed by owners.

Photos by Janice Bennett

What to Pack

Most dogs can carry their own backpack, but the total load must never exceed one-third of the dog’s body weight and should be much less until the dog is accustomed to it. To begin, find a pack that fits your dog snugly, but not so tight that it will chafe (two fingers should fit under it). Doggy backpacks have two saddlebags that should be weighted equally. They can be loaded with dog food, water, treats, a collapsible bowl, first aid, and, if the size of your dog permits, extra gear for you. It is never a good idea to load up a dog for the first time at the trailhead, or you may have an unhappy, unwilling companion. Break your dog in first. If you are hiking in difficult terrain or plan to be outdoors all day, a lighter load is advisable.

The ten essentials for dogs are slightly different than those for humans. Although obedience training can’t be put into the pack, it ranks number one. Most dogs are capable of carrying the other nine essentials, which include the backpack, a collapsible bowl and water, food and treats, ID tags and photo identification, first aid, leash and collar, insect repellent, dog booties, and a roll of plastic bags for waste management. Microchipping your dog is also recommended in the event the external ID tags are detached or lost.

Additional items might include a reflective vest for hiking after dark or during hunting season and/or LED lights that can be attached to your dog’s collar. If you cannot carry enough water for yourself and your dog, a water purifier is essential. Dehydration kills quickly.

Hazards of the Wilderness

While many people might think of mountain lions, bears, and rattlesnakes as the most serious hazards, these critters are low on the list. In fact, the number one hazard is mountain streams, which will attract a thirsty dog faster than anything else. The parasites ingested in a few gulps can produce discomfort that lasts more than a month, in the form of diarrhea, listlessness, and weight loss. Additionally, many dogs will recklessly jump in water and could be carried off in a fast-moving current.

Rocks and boulders are another hazard. A dog may leap and jump over rocks as if they were pebbles, without realizing the sharp edges can tear off a pad or claw. Pad injuries are especially serious because they bleed heavily and can quickly end a hike, as well as your pet’s 18

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life, if the bleeding is not controlled. Dogs are unaware of the dangers of a drop-off or cliff, so it would be wise to enforce a “no walking up steep rocks” policy. Dog booties and paw wax are good precautions against pad injury.

There is perhaps nothing more exhilarating than to watch your dog joyfully running and leaping through the air, ears flying and four paws off the ground. Nevertheless, even when off-leash hiking is allowed, keep your pet close to you and within sight. A dog’s natural instincts may take over in a new environment. It takes only a few moments for a dog to disappear in pursuit of a squirrel, rabbit, deer, or other critter. Many are lost forever.

Colorado is notorious for lightning storms that loom as an imminent danger in summer afternoons. While lightning poses a serious risk to hikers, many dogs are so terrified by lightning they panic and try to escape by running away. Avoid storms, which also carry the risk of hypothermia, especially for small dogs.

Poison ivy, oak, and sumac are prevalent along many trails. While the harmful toxins from these plants may not get past the dog fur, they can easily be spread to humans through petting and contact. Be careful where your dog treads. Additionally, many dogs will eat grasses, plants, and mushrooms, which may be poisonous. Some cause rashes, while others produce vomiting, organ damage, and even death. Teach your dog not to eat them.

Rules of the Trail

Good trail etiquette keeps your dog safe and makes hiking enjoyable for everyone. There are five simple rules: 1. Obey the rules on the trail you are visiting. (Remember, a law is only broken if you are caught, so check if anyone is looking. Just kidding.) Some trails do not allow dogs, while others require leashes.

2. Keep dogs on a leash at all times or under voice control when leashes are not required. Voice control means that your dog immediately heels and refrains from barking when commanded.

3. Yield the right-of-way to hikers. The dog and owner must step clear of the trail to allow others to pass.

4. Yield the right-of-way to horses. Move to the downhill side of the trail and keep your dog under control until the horse passes.

5. Leave no trace. This means that all poop must be packed out in a plastic bag or buried according to the regulations for human waste.

Canine First Aid

Although some human first aid essentials will also benefit dogs, there are several mandatory items specific to canines. The most important is canine first aid knowledge. Consider enrolling in a class such as K9 First Aid, offered by paramedic Eric Roth in the Denver area. He teaches simple techniques, including CPR, which can save the life of your dog in any emergency, even at home. Roth’s first aid instruction book can be downloaded on a smartphone for reference on the trail.

Carry only the items you feel are necessary for your dog’s breed and health conditions. Your dog’s size will determine the amount to bring of certain essentials, like hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting. Your dog’s first aid kit should include everything necessary to treat the most likely emergencies, such as fractures, tears and abrasions, poisoning, foreign objects in the eye, and allergic reactions. Bring a list of emergency telephone numbers, which should include your veterinarian, an after-hours emergency veterinary hospital, the local animal control agency, and the Animal Poison Control Center (1-888-426-4435).

In the event your dog is injured, first assess the situation for potential hazards to your own safety as well as that of your dog. Speak in a soft, calming voice, and approach the dog with caution, remembering that an injured dog may attack its owner out of pain and fear. Look for behaviors that indicate the dog may bite, such as growling, snarling with teeth exposed, and raised hackles. If you cannot safely treat your pet, call the local animal control agency. You may be faced with the decision to abandon your pet if help is unavailable.

Never attempt treatment on an injured dog without restraining it first. This can be done by dropping a large blanket over the dog from above and behind. You can also make a large loop in the dog’s leash, carefully drop it over his head and tighten it. Once the dog is restrained, a

muzzle should be placed over the mouth. In any case, human safety should be the primary concern. Depending on the injury, muzzling may be unnecessary, and it should not be done if it looks as if the dog may vomit or if the dog has a very short nose.

Educate yourself on how to treat torn pads, abrasions, snake and insect bites, poisons, fractures, heat stroke, frostbite, hypothermia, and other possible canine emergencies. Equip your pet’s first aid kit.

Have an evacuation plan. A blanket or jacket can be used to transport the dog, or you can bring along a pet stretcher for emergencies.

If your dog is too large to carry yourself, you will need to employ the aid of other hikers, so never hike alone.

Have Fun

Finally, relax, have fun, take lots of photos of your furry friend in the wilderness, and don’t forget the welcome-home bath! △

Left: Stanley loves off-leash hiking and has learned to walk behind snowshoes to avoid sinking in deep snow at Mayflower Gulch. Photo by Alan Lipkin

Right: Jasper poses for a photo on the trail to Silver Dollar Lake, off Guanella Pass. Photo by Tim Semones

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Wham Ridge and the CMC Summer Outing of 1941

By John Lacher his past summer we visited the Ridgway Mountain Market, where a marvelous photograph of the Wham Ridge of Vestal Peak was on display. It was taken by David Valentich, a local climber. The view is from just north and east of the Wham Ridge. The lighting was perfect, and much of the ridge was shown in great detail. Most photos of that ridge are taken more from the north and west, and often show it in the shadows. This image was so striking it took my breath away and brought back memories of our climb a few years back.

The Wham Ridge of Vestal Peak.

Photo by David Valentich

Vestal Peak and the Wham Ridge

The Wham Ridge, of course, isn’t a ridge, but a gradually narrowing quartzite buttress that was gently bent by the assiduous effort of the celestial geologic department sometime prior to Colorado joining the union. It was named by J. E. Nelson and Carleton Long from atop adjacent Arrow Peak, which they climbed in August 1932 (Trail & Timberline, November l932). Impressed with the dramatic sweep of the face, Nelson and Long named it Wham Ridge. From below, it looks like a concave Third Flatiron. From the side it gradually steepens until it is much steeper than a flatiron. Various publications put it at between 75 degrees and “nearly vertical.”

Placing a protractor along the image from the side, it seems more like 60 degrees at the top.

Vestal Peak was first ascended by

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William S. Cooper and John Hubbard on July l5, 1908. They approached the peak from the south side, and did not get a close look at the Wham Ridge until they summitted Arrow Peak just to the west. This pair of intrepid adventurers climbed some of the most remote and challenging peaks in Colorado well before mountaineering came of age here. The north ridge of Vestal, however, was not only named by CMC members, it was first climbed by CMC members during the summer outing of l941. That summer outing was a fountain of “firsts” and a story of major obstacles successfully floundered through.

Vestal Peak, at 13,864 feet of elevation, is the highest point of the Grenadier Range.

The Hayden and Wheeler surveyors of the 1870s called the rugged group of peaks south of Silverton and east of the Animas River “The Quartzites.” These peaks are now known as the Needles to the south, and the Grenadiers to the north.

Although the early surveys did not get closer to these peaks than the top of Whitedome (13,627’), they were mightily impressed.

Franklin Rhoda, with the Hayden Survey, noted the row of ten distinct peaks running east to west. This row of peaks is the Grenadiers.

Lt. William L. Marshall, of the Wheeler Survey, was most descriptive of this region: “The hard, metamorphic rocks are shivered along their cleavage planes for hundreds of feet, leaving here odd pinnacles, there the likeness of the shattered outspread wings of some gigantic bird, and again of the grim grinning teeth of Death” (page 65, Roof of the Rockies, by William Bueler).

Whether due to the fearsomeness of these mountains or their outstanding and dramatic architecture, the Grenadiers are perhaps the premier climbing range in Colorado. This is made more so by their remote location.

These are not your standard “leave early so we can be back in town for a late latte” peaks; their remoteness, and the absence of Fourteeners in the area, result in this region not being too overused by climbers.

Map of the area explored by CMC members during the summer outing of 1941. Trail & Timberline, January 1941.

Vestal Peak, at 13,864 feet of elevation, is the highest point of the Grenadier Range. The Hayden and Wheeler surveyors of the 1870s called the rugged group of peaks south of Silverton and east of the Animas River “The Quartzites.”

The CMC Summer Outing of 1941

The CMC Summer Outing of 1941 is a story of logistical difficulties and great achievements at a much different time. The year before the outing, a scouting party planned the approach route and timing.

The outing was to take place between July 5th and July 12th. The scouting party asked the Forest Service to construct a bridge over the Animas River and to build a trail in from the Tenmile Creek confluence in anticipation of the event. The plan was then to bring in supplies by train and get them up to the basecamp near Balsam Lake on horseback. Although apparently willing to help, the Forest Service was not able to accomplish either bridge or trail. Heavy winter snowpack and the subsequent runoff that year washed out the tracks. The CMC advance party moved the time of the trip back a bit, and had to scramble to keep the outing viable. Although there was no train, they were able to get the use of a powered railcar in Silverton and bring some supplies down to the west side of the river across from Tenmile Creek. They brought everything across the river on a cable platform, set up a supply camp, and eventually sent “seven stout lads” on to construct a six-mile trail with three thousand feet of elevation gain into the Balsam Lake basin just south of the main range of the Grenadiers.

At this juncture, the gentle reader will be subjected to some musing about how things have changed in the last 70-plus years.

Obviously, the Forest Service was able and willing to help with the project. The regional forester in those days made decisions and acted on them. Now, there would have to be written requests submitted in multiple copies, consultation with distant levels of decision makers, and probably several years of contemplation before something could be done. The hardy group of mountaineers who undertook to build their own six-mile trail nowadays would probably find themselves arraigned before the proper federal judiciary and facing big fines, and perhaps jail time.

All this takes one’s breath away. But I would suggest it is for the better. If all the outdoor explorers in the 21st century in Colorado could freelance, we would surely make a hash of things. There were a lot fewer people out there in 1941.

Back to the narrative. Most of the remainder of the supplies eventually arrived by packhorse and train and were shuttled across the river on a newly constructed pulley cable platform. One packer was able to get his horses across the Needleton Bridge and wend his way north into the Tenmile Creek drainage. The packer and horses were about at their limit after nearly 24 hours of effort. These animals were

eventually able to help transport some supplies into the CMC basecamp.

The outing was a success, with approximately fifty people attending. Well, more than just a success; from reading their accounts, the outing members had a lot of fun, enjoyed each other’s company, and climbed everything in sight (Trail & Timberline, October 1941). Among their premier achievements was the first complete west to east traverse of the Trinity Peaks, including first ascents of West Trinity and Middle Trinity. They also recorded first ascents of Storm King (13,752’) and Peaks Four, Five, and Seven. The latter peaks, lying south of Tenmile Creek, are actually considered to be in the northern Needle Mountains. Outing members ran a mountaineering school for those who wanted to learn more about using an ice axe and rope. Many, however, were quite pleased to take shorter hikes, work on photography, or just enjoy being there.

The first ascent of the Wham Ridge of Vestal during the summer 1941 outing was achieved by Rit Burrows, Walter Schnackenberg, and Jim Peterson. They described this in the October 1941 issue of Trail & Timberline. On July 18th, the three men did a little warm-up climb of Arrow Peak (13,803’) just to the west. They then slid down a snowfield on Arrow’s north side Trail & Timberline

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Jan, wearing 1988 protective headgear on the lower part of the Wham Ridge. A climber today might be wise to bring a helmet.

Photo by John Lacher

The train arriving in Elk Park.

Photo by John Lacher

Top: The Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Photo by Yvonne Lashmett, www.

DurangoExposures.com.

Bottom: Sebastian fixin’ to flag down the train.

Photo by John Lacher

and walked over to the base of the Wham Ridge. They easily scrambled up the firm, but well-fissured lower sections. When the aspect steepened, they broke out their 120foot rope and proceeded more cautiously to the top. They used one piton in a sketchy area near the crest. After three hours, they summitted in a bank of clouds with “a rather spotty view through the fog.” They described the descent as a leisurely jaunt interrupted by a flower-picking orgy.

Climbing the Wham Ridge

Jan Lacher, Sebastian Braum, and I climbed the Wham Ridge in 1988. We took the train north from Durango, disembarked at Elk Park, and hiked up the Elk Creek Trail into the Vestal drainage. We camped at the base of the ridge and climbed it the next day in glorious weather. The rock is a slightly fissured quartzite that provides small, secure holds up higher. We roped up near the top, and did put in one piece of protection. The nice thing about this face is that there is not much loose rock to dislodge on those below.

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Also, if the climbing gets thin on one line, moving to either side yields better holds. We all agreed that the most dangerous part was descending into the drainage between Vestal and Arrow. There was a fair amount of loose stuff to kick off. Although Jan’s protective headgear was considered fashionable in the 1980s, a climber today might be wise to take a helmet.

The Elk Creek trailhead access is most convenient by rail, either from Silverton or Durango. Many approach from Molas Pass.

This involves a 1,700-foot drop down to the river before crossing it and starting the 2,500-foot gain up Elk Creek and into the Vestal Creek drainage.

To accomplish a more complete alpine holiday in the Grenadiers, one would probably want to get into the Balsam Lake basin, at the head of Tenmile Creek, just as the 1941 group did. Unfortunately, the Forest Service still has not built that bridge. Accounts say the CMC trail is still there, but a bit difficult to find in spots.

So the adventurer will be doing some river

wading in the late summer, and a little bushwhacking. There are other ways in, of course, but they are also challenging.

Robert Rosebrough’s guidebook, Climbing Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, has a good section on approaches. But be warned.

After perusing the book and enjoying the photographs, you might want to waste a week there.

Schedules and reservations for the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad are available through the railroad’s website. Going by rail adds to the enjoyment; you see some nice country, and get to answer questions from the tourists such as, “How do you get the ropes up there?” You get to flag down a train by the prescribed method: stand on the east side of the tracks and wave your hands back and forth before your knees. (The overly enthused climber will kindly refrain from embellishing the motion to make it seem impolite.) Then, if you have a camera ready, you can get a photo of the train chockablock with waving tourists. The Wham Ridge has it all. △

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◉

pathfinder PATHFINDER

Photography on the Run

◉

Wilson Peak—example of a landscape photo.

Photo by Dan Orcutt

How to Capture Great Outdoor Photos

By D an O rcutt

I

t’s happened to all of us. We’re out hiking in a beautiful setting and see

something we just have to photograph.

It may be how the landscape looks, a waterfall, a herd of elk, or something else. But either we miss the opportunity or we don’t like the photo we capture.

Aargh! We may never see it again as we saw it then. Welcome to photography on the run.

This casual

article

is

meant

photographers,

to

provide

armed

with

smartphones, Point and Shoot (P&S) cameras, or DSLRs (digital single-lens reflex cameras), advice on how to get the photo you want and improve its quality. This information, by itself, will not turn you into Ansel Adams, but it may help you create photos that you treasure. It is meant as a brief primer— by no means complete, but a good start.

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Preparation Frequently, you may find yourself hiking with people who are not taking photos and do not want to wait while you set up your camera. Preparation is the answer to this dilemma. If you know you’ll be shooting one subject of interest more than others, set your camera settings before you leave the trailhead. Some cameras are easily configured in the field as you hike, if you know the right settings and how to enable them. Know the settings you may want to use.

Calypso Cascades in Wild Basin—example of a water photo capturing motion.

Photo by Dan Orcutt

Eastern Kingbird at Barr Lake—example of a wildlife photo using a small aperture number to blur the foreground and background. Photo by Dan Orcutt

Subject of Interest

First, it’s helpful to decide what you want to shoot before your hike and to recognize what you do shoot when hiking. This “what” is your subject of interest. This awareness is important because different subjects benefit from different photographic methods.

You do not have to read your camera manual to apply most of these methods. And yes, you can simply shoot in auto mode and still enhance your images with a little knowledge from this article.

We’ll consider the following subjects and what’s most important when photographing them: »Landscapes »Natural features such as flowers, waterfalls, or trees »Wildlife »People/friends »Pets Landscapes work best when the observer’s eye is drawn into the picture. In the Mount Wilson photo, the eye follows the color from the aspens (from the lower left) to the sunrise-lit peak. The intent is to draw the viewer into the 3D world where this photo was taken.

One way to accomplish this is to provide a foreground, midground, and background in your photo. This most often requires a range of focus that starts in your foreground and extends to the background.

Your subject of interest may be at any range, but is most often in the midground or background. Finally, good landscapes are very dependent on good lighting. But more about that later.

Natural features often benefit from a shorter range of focus to draw the eye straight to the subject. This results in the subject being crisply focused while the foreground and background are blurry. Second, these images may not be as dependent on lighting as landscapes.

Lastly, you may want to use a slow shutter speed with your DSLR or, if supported, your P&S camera when photographing water to impart

a sense of the water motion.

For the best wildlife photos, think ahead to know where you may find the wildlife that interests you and how it behaves. Where is the animal most likely to come from? Will it be running, walking, or grazing? And are you in the right spot to photograph it relative to the light and obstructions such as trees? Do not place yourself in its path. Finally, be prepared with a telephoto lens if necessary, a fast shutter speed, and image stabilization if your camera provides that function.

People, especially friends, create valuable memories. If they participate in activities such as running, skiing, etc., then treat them photographically as you would wildlife. If taking their portrait, a good background and lighting are most important.

Groups should be arranged ahead of time, and if you’re recording a group performing a specific activity such as trail maintenance or hiking, you may want to include artifacts such as shovels and packs in the photo.

Pets should be treated like wildlife or people portraits. Use a fast shutter speed for both types of photos because you never know what pets may do.

Light

Good photos are possible in all types of light. But light is always important, and some types are better for particular subjects. Morning and evening light is soft and has a direction that highlights landscape topography and texture. This light often has a golden hue about 1015 minutes before sundown and after sunrise, providing a pleasing warmth to any subject.

Bright midday light is harsh and creates deep shadows. However, it can be useful for features such as flowers when the blossoms are horizontal. It may also be good for water shots (especially if you want sparkling highlights in the water) and for sun-dappling in wooded areas.

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Photo Section snowshoe trip participants with the Gore Range in the background—example of a group photo. Photo by Frank Burzynski

Cloudy conditions are good for all subjects when you want to avoid dark shadows on your subject. This is often important for features, wildlife, people, and pets.

Stormy light, particularly when lighting is mixed (some shadow and some bright light, including light shafts), creates very dramatic landscapes. But be alert as this light changes rapidly.

Focus

This section provides information that may be supported by some P&S cameras and DSLRs. It is unlikely that current smartphones support these methods, but they’re improving all the time.

Now that you know something about subjects and how to light them, how do you achieve the right range of focus or shutter speed?

Do you have to manually change each of these each time you take a photograph? NO! There are three different ways you can set your camera automatically to get good shots with all DSLRs and some P&S cameras. The first is just shooting fully automatic. This works to some extent with each subject, but the camera selects the range of focus and shutter speed for you. Since it does not know what the subject is, its selections may be poor. However, some cameras allow you to select the subject type and then shoot automatically. Often the subject types are selected by buttons labeled with icons on your camera. For instance, landscapes are represented by a mountain, natural features by a flower, and people by a face.

The second automatic mode is good for controlling the range of focus. Set your camera to Aperture Priority and set your aperture.

The aperture (the size of the hole through which light passes) determines the range of focus. The higher the aperture number, 26

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the longer the range of focus. Smaller aperture numbers result in shorter ranges. In Aperture Priority, the camera will automatically determine the shutter speed to get a good exposure. Therefore, use a large aperture number for landscapes, wildlife, and pets. You may also want to use a large number for portraits if you want the entire photo to be sharp. Use a small number for features and portraits if you want the foregrounds and backgrounds to be softly out of focus.

The range of focus for a given aperture number is dependent on the size of your sensor, so you may want to read about or experiment with your camera. Or just check your camera display after taking the shot.

The third mode is Shutter Priority. You set the shutter speed and let the camera automatically determine the aperture to give the best exposure. Shutter priority is good for subjects like moving water for which you want a slow shutter speed (1 second through 1/40th second), or a high shutter speed (1/300th second and higher) for wildlife, active people, or pets. Keep in mind that a shutter speed that is too slow (generally less than 1/60th of a second) will result in a blurry photo. To avoid this problem without using a tripod, set your camera on some folded clothing placed on a firm surface to steady it.

Note also that if you set your aperture number very high, especially in dim light, the camera may calculate a slow shutter speed, resulting in a blurry photo. If you set your shutter speed very high, the aperture the camera selects may result in a range of focus that is too short for your subject. For P&S (if supported) and DSLRs, a solution to this conundrum is to use a higher ISO setting (check your manual to determine how to do this). The ISO setting determines how sensitive the camera is to light. So why not always

Columbines, with warm cast on left and neutral cast on right. Photo by Dan Orcutt

If you have a moving subject, placing it on the leftmost vertical line allows for the subject to move into the photo. The leftmost line is typically chosen because so many of us read and write from left to right.

Remember, you are in the scene that you’re photographing. This means that your brain has a global understanding of the context in which you’re shooting that a viewer of your image does not have. To create a good photo, you have to look at your environment carefully to be sure that you haven’t left anything out of the photo that ought to be there and haven’t included anything that doesn’t belong. Edge details often are critical to inform the viewer of the context of your photo. Also, take a good look at the photo you’ve taken on the screen on the back of your camera. Frequently, we find that taking a two-dimensional image of our three-dimensional reality changes the way we see our image. Be critical.

Summary

set your ISO very high? Because the higher you set it, the more “noise” you will get in your photo. Noise creates a grainy look and a loss of detail. This is not typically a problem if you want to shoot snapshot-sized photos or even computer screen photos. However, each camera records different amounts of noise at different ISO settings, so experiment with your camera to find what works for you.

Finally, there are two other factors you may want to consider. First, use Auto-Focus. Second, White Balance (WB) determines how your camera records colors. The most common setting is Auto WB, which should give you a neutral color rendering in most conditions. Some photographers prefer their outdoor photos to have a warm color cast (like you might see at sunset). You can achieve this in many light conditions by simply changing the WB to “Cloudy.” However, this latter setting may result in problems, especially in artificial light.

Hopefully this primer has given you some ideas for how to improve your photography without having to study hard or buy expensive equipment. Read it, let it soak in, and then maybe glance at it before you go hiking the next time. Photography, like all skills, improves with practice.

A Photo Section class, Making Great Outdoor Photos, starts on May 30th. The class will provide more information and hands-on assistance by experienced photographers in the field. Sign up on the CMC calendar. △ Dan Orcutt is the chair of the CMC Photo Section. You can find out more about the Photo Section at www.hikingdenver.net/specialinterests/ photography-section or email Dan at orcuttpscmc@gmail.com.

Composition

Composition rules are not written in stone, but are often effective.

How does one provide a foreground, midground, and background in a photo? For landscapes, choose a nearby object such as a stone, bush, or log for the foreground. Your subject of interest is typically in the midground unless this subject is a mountain range. For features, people, wildlife, and pets, you often have only the subject of interest and a background. In fact, you may decide to blur the background with a small aperture number.

Leading lines draw the eye into the image and to the subject of interest. A stream, a road or path, or even a felled tree trunk can lead the eye where you want it to be. Roads or paths with S-curves add balance as well as a leading line to one or more places in the photo.

Another fundamental composition guideline is the Rule of Thirds.

If you imagine that your image has two equidistant horizontal lines running across it and two equidistant vertical lines as well (as in the White Pocket photo), it is often best to place your subject of interest near these lines, or even better, near the junctions of these lines. Using this technique often results in a pleasing balance in your image. The White Pocket photo uses the Rule of Thirds and the white leading line to draw the eye to the interesting round hole in the far cliff wall.

White Pocket, Arizona— example of a leading line and the Rule of Thirds. Photo by Dan Orcutt

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Alert and ready.

Wolves

A Vital Part of the Rocky Mountain Ecosystem

W

hen you hear the word “wolf,” your mind, like mine, probably goes to “The Three Little Pigs” or to a story about a little girl with a red riding hood and a “Big Bad Wolf.” These fairy tales or myths have given the wolf a bad name and an erroneous reputation. People fear that they will be stalked, killed, and then eaten by a “Big Bad Wolf.” In fact, in the United States in the last 150 years, only two people have been killed by a wolf. One was killed by a rabid wolf and the other by a wolf that was being starved to death by the wolf ’s eventual victim.

The wolf has, sadly, been the victim. The gray/timber wolf once numbered 350,000– 400,000 in North America. Gray wolves were common throughout the continent but were exterminated in most areas of the contiguous United States by the 1930s. Today there are approximately 7,000–11,000 wolves in Alaska, 3,700 in the Great Lakes region, and 1,675 in the Northern Rockies—including parts of Washington and Oregon, and all of Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming. There have been no known wolf residents in Colorado since 1945, evidenced by negative DNA testing of suspect wolf scat. Potential sightings may be attributed to wolf-dog hybrids, but even that has not been proven.

The wolf is a beautiful but mysterious animal. Their colorization will normally be a mix of gray and brown with buff-colored facial markings. Their color can range from almost pure white to brown or silver and black. Their eyes are almost always an intense and piercing yellow. The size of a wolf is 3 to 5 feet long with a one- to two-foot-long bushy tail. Male wolves generally weigh 70–140 pounds, while female wolves will weigh 60–100 pounds. A wolf is typically 26–32 inches in height at the shoulders. Because their fur is extremely thick, they appear to weigh more than they actually do. A timber wolf can withstand temperatures

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Story and Photos by Rod Martinez to 35 degrees below zero, whereas an Arctic wolf can withstand temperatures up to 70 degrees below zero.

A wolf can live 8–13 years in the wild or upwards of 15 years in captivity. Hunting and other eradication methods—poisoning and trapping—shortens the lifespan of a wolf in the wild to an average of just 4 years.

The wolf is a carnivore that eats large ungulates such as deer, elk, moose, and bison.

They will also eat small mammals such as beaver, rabbit, and rodents, if necessary. An average wolf will eat 20 pounds of meat in a single, once-a-week meal. The wolf hunts in packs that can range in size from 2 to 30 wolves; however, the normal pack size is 7 to 8 wolves. Once the wolf pack becomes too large, individuals will break off to form a separate pack in a different territory. The pack

The wolf is a beautiful but mysterious animal. Their colorization will normally be a mix of gray and brown with buff-colored facial markings.

Their color can range from almost pure white to brown or silver and black. Their eyes are almost always an intense and piercing yellow.

Aspens frame Na’vi, a timber wolf.

can thrive in a diverse habitat of woodlands, grasslands, forests, and even the desert.

The desert is normally the habitat of the endangered species the Mexican gray wolf.

The Mexican gray wolf is the rarest of the gray wolves in North America. This wolf was all but eliminated in the 1970s. As of today, there are only 83–109 Mexican gray wolves in the southwest United States. This is because of a reintroduction and release of captive-but-wild wolves in 1988 into the Blue Range Recovery Area of the Apache and Gila National Forests in Arizona and New Mexico. The U.S. Department of Wildlife has considered reintroducing the Mexican gray wolf in southwest Colorado and the timber wolf to northern Colorado.

Wolf packs are ruled and dominated by the alpha male and alpha female. The alpha wolves in the pack mate for life and are the only wolves in the pack that breed. Breeding occurs from late January through March.

The gestation period is 63 days with a litter averaging 4 to 7 pups. The pups are born blind and are protected in a den selected by the alpha wolves. A young wolf can hunt at 10 months, will reach full maturity in 18 to 22 months, and are then recognized as an adult by the other wolves in the pack.

Beta wolves may breed if either of the alpha wolves get sick or die. Beta wolves protect the alpha wolves and pups. Omega wolves are at the bottom of the pecking order, eat last, and are usually the younger wolves.

Each wolf howl is distinct; it is their vocal fingerprint. Wolf howls are indistinguishable from the howl of a large dog. A wolf ’s howl can carry 5 to 6 miles or up to 50 square miles, depending upon the terrain. In a large grassland expanse, wolf howls have been known to carry 100 square miles. When wolves howl together and harmonize on the same note, one wolf will automatically change to another note.

This creates an illusion that there may be more wolves than there actually are. Wolves howl to locate other wolves or inform their pack that they have a kill or are ready to go on a hunt. Wolves howl at dawn and dusk.

They may howl when there is a full moon because of the light generated—not because it is a full moon; another myth dispelled.

Wolves continue to need strong voices to ensure their survival in the Rocky Mountain ecosystem. One of the wolf ’s greatest voices is the Colorado Wolf and Wildlife Center (CWWC) located a few miles from Divide, Colorado. The Center is one of only twenty sanctuaries in the entire United States that has been certified by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums. CWWC is able to go beyond education and into application.

CWWC actively participates in the Species Survival Plan Program by providing a home to a pair of Mexican gray wolves and three swift fox.

This spring, I was privileged to visit the CWWC for a standard tour, a feeding tour, and a private photography session. I was able to witness their mission statement in action: “To educate the public through tours and programs about the importance of Wolves, Coyote, and Fox to our ecosystem.

Educate the public about the importance of Preservation and Conservation of the forests, land, and water that supports wildlife, flora, and fauna for future generations to enjoy.

Provide natural habitats and exceptional lives for the animals entrusted to our care since they cannot live in the wild.”

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The eyes are intense and mysterious.

As of this writing, CWWC is home to three swift fox, three red fox, two Mexican gray wolves (an endangered species), two coyote, one Arctic wolf, eleven gray/ timber wolves, and three wolves of mixed species. The swift fox weigh approximately 5 pounds, the red fox 10–15 pounds, coyote 20–25 pounds, Mexican gray wolves 70–75 pounds, and the Arctic and timber wolves weigh between 40 and 140 pounds. The Center gets all of its meat donated; the animals’ diet consists primarily of venison, elk, and chicken. The wolves are fasted twice a week to help prevent unhealthy, fat wolves. The Center goes through an average of 60–80 pounds of meat at each feeding.

The animals share a large enclosure where they are free to roam.

Darlene Kobobel, director and founder of CWWC, is presently expanding the Center.

This will broaden CWWC’s educational facilities to include an amphitheater and expand existing wolf enclosures. CWWC tries to maintain a consistent number of wolves. This gives them the ability to properly care for all the animals through their lifetimes.

The wolf was delisted as an Endangered Species in 2011. Since 2009, 6,500 wolves 30

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have been killed; 4,000 have been killed since delisting in 2011. Unfortunately, 2,500 have been killed by the U.S. Dept. of Fish and Wildlife because of wolf myths and fairy tales. The above numbers do not include Alaska or states that do not consistently report. Most states continue to authorize hunting and trapping and some permit the use of aircraft and dogs to facilitate the hunt. After the wolves were delisted, the wolf population of Idaho and Montana went from approximately 1,500 to a mere 200–300. Unlike other animal species, wolf pups (babies) can be killed.

Idaho hosts a yearly wolf hunting contest to see who can kill the most female wolves, the most wolves, and the largest wolf. One wonders what the prize is.

More deer and elk are killed every year in vehicle collisions than by predators and hunters combined. Loss of livestock is a reasonable concern; however, the predator that is responsible for the largest amount of livestock losses are coyotes. Since wolves help control the coyote population (which people cannot do), wolves should be a welcome sight. Unfortunately, myths from the Dark Ages seem to control the mindset of some (not all) livestock owners

in the West. Sadly, there is a compensation program. Anytime a wolf kills livestock, that livestock owner gets paid the market value of the animal—something that is not offered for other losses. A rancher may be reimbursed up to $900 from state governments and private venues for livestock that has been killed by a wolf. This is unfortunate because this leads to wolves facing the blame for livestock deaths.

About 8,000 livestock animals are lost yearly to wolves, a big number when looked at alone. But overall, 200,000 livestock are lost every year to predators as a whole. Birds of prey are responsible for more calf kills than wolves. And we lose 3.8 million cows to disease and weather every year. Wolves only account for 0.2% of cattle mortality.

It is thought that more cattle are killed in vehicle collisions than by wolves. Only 1 in 20 livestock losses are predatory with only about 1 in 500 due to wolves.

Wolves are considered a keystone species: everything in the ecosystem depends on them, in order to remain healthy.

When wolves were first reintroduced into Yellowstone and Idaho in 1995 and 1996, the effects were almost immediate. Perhaps the number one effect wolves have is breaking up unnaturally large groups of deer

and elk into smaller, more natural groups, minimizing disease transfer between the large herds of deer or elk. It also allows for grasses and trees to thrive in between grazing and aids in biodiversity. Over 350 species of plants and animals returned to Yellowstone National Park after wolves were reintroduced.

Colorado has a population of 300,000– 400,000 elk—at least 100,000 more than it can sustain. Look at the elk population in the Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes Park area. Fences are constructed to keep an overabundance of elk out of the Park. Go to YouTube and search for “How Wolves Change Rivers” to see the positive impact wolves can have on our ecosystem.

Colorado has had at least two wolves confirmed in the state since the 1940s.

Both were collared wolves from Wyoming; however, both were later killed. Another wolf was thought to have been sighted near Walden in 2006. Some key traits to

remember if you believe you have spotted a wolf: A solitary wolf will have its tail straight out or up, not curled or down like a dog; wolves always have erect ears, not “floppy ears” like a dog or wolf hybrids. If a wolf-like animal is consistently near homes, human activity, or human structures, it is most assuredly not a gray or timber wolf.

In September, the nonprofit organization Wild Earth Guardians petitioned the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to restore wolves to four Colorado areas: the Grand MesaUncompahgre National Forest, the San Juans and Weminuche Wilderness Area, southern Colorado’s Vermeso Ranch and Carson National Forest, and the Flat Tops area north of Glenwood Springs. The Flat Tops was where most of the emphasis was placed. A spokesman for the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service states that the agency stands by its existing wolf recovery plan, which limits restoring wolves to Wyoming,

Top Left: Here’s looking at you, friend or foe. Top Right: A wolf’s howl may be heard up to 5 or 6 miles away. Bottom Right: A wolf greets an old gray fox— the author.

Montana, and Idaho. Presently, if a wolf or wolf pack wanders into Colorado, it is treated as an endangered species and should not be killed.

Have you looked into a wolf ’s eyes, as I have, and wondered what they are thinking?

They may be wondering if I am a friend or a foe. Friend or foe, please take the time to visit the Wolf and Wildlife Center—or their website at www.wolfeducation.org—to see what you can do help the wolves. Then take the next step and call or write your legislator to express your opinion. Finally, donate to the CWWC to help save our wolves and our Rocky Mountain ecosystem. △ Trail & Timberline

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The

Lawn Lake Dam Disaster

By Jay Fell

Hikes to Historic Dam Sites in Rocky Mountain National Park hursday, July 15, 1982. The disaster began about dawn. The wall of the Lawn Lake Dam,

in the Mummy Range high above Estes Park, ruptured. Some 30 million cubic feet of water, 30 feet high, plunged down Roaring River, gouged out the banks, carried three sleeping campers to eternity, and burst into Estes Park where it caused $31 million in damage in minutes. The dam break also spurred powerful environmental changes over the next 20 years.

The disaster highlighted what few people in the larger public knew at the time. In the early years of the 20th century, farmers and business leaders from Longmont and Loveland had developed dams in what later became Rocky Mountain National Park so as to spur urban and agricultural development on the parched high plains. This was a time when access to the mountains was often difficult, although impounding water for irrigation was nothing new—in Colorado it stretched back thousands of years to some of the early Indian cultures in the region. But the four dams developed for Longmont and Loveland reflected the standards of the early 20th century. Three of the four were built of earth and rock, and the fourth—at Bluebird Lake—was built of cement. Three were in Wild Basin a few miles northwest of Allenspark at Sand Beach, Pear, and Bluebird Lakes on the headwaters of South St. Vrain Creek, which flowed down to Longmont. The fourth impoundment was Lawn 32

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Lake Dam, constructed on the headwaters of the Big Thompson River, which flowed down through Estes Park to Loveland and which was sponsored largely by farmers there who needed more water for fields in that area.

Construction of the dams began as early as 1902, when workers assembled a camp at Lawn Lake, and all four came into being in the course of the next twenty years, as did Rocky Mountain National Park itself, created in 1915. When completed, the dams were substantial structures for that day. Sandbeach Dam stood 26 feet high and 90 feet long; Pear Lake Dam was 26 feet high, but 140 feet long, and both were built of earth and rock. Bluebird Dam stood 60 feet high and 200 feet long, and was the only one built of concrete. All increased the natural size of the lakes, given the need to impound water, and their presence ran askance of the preservation philosophy behind the National Park Service. But the

Left: Winter ice floats in the waters of Bluebird Lake in the late spring or early summer. Photo by Jao van de Lagemaat. Top Right: A moose grazes in the track of the Ouzel Fire of 1978. Photo by Jao van de Lagemaat.

Right: The trail from Wild Basin to Bluebird Lake takes you past the spectacular Ouzel Falls, the most dramatic waterfall in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Photo by Carl Slater

dams preceded the Park, so this created little, if any, controversy at the time.

For years, the dams served their purpose of delivering water to the plains. The lakes collected the runoff from rains and snowmelt, impounded huge volumes of water, and when the spring thaws arrived, the waters tumbled down to the high plains until the next freeze. But this cycle also created slow, silent problems. Water expands when it freezes, so the annual winter freeze disturbed the stability of the dams, and there appears to have been relatively little maintenance over the years, although the state engineer eventually took over inspection—deemed necessary only once every other year. Cars and roads created

greater access to the Park, and all four lakes and dams became popular goals of hikers seeking the aesthetic of hiking trails and beautiful lakes on warm summer days.

Dam Removal

By the 1970s, however, there was growing concern, but little action, about the deteriorating structures. Tight budgets and bureaucratic inertia meant that little was done to address the growing danger of dam failure, a danger not unknown in Colorado or other states. The state engineer’s office intoned that Lawn Lake Dam itself was only “a moderate hazard dam.” But that all changed at dawn on July 15, 1982. In the wake of the devastating flood, the state

engineer ordered an immediate inspection of the three surviving dams above Wild Basin, which confirmed that all three were leaking badly, deteriorating rapidly, and thus threatening the safety of hikers in the Park and people in the communities downstream. Given the circumstances, the state engineer directed the City of Longmont to reduce water levels and either repair the dams or remove them. The City chose to take them out. It now had ample water supplies from other sources.

As the removal process went forward, in 1987 Rocky Mountain National Park purchased an easement for the three remaining dams and developed its own plan for their removal—a project easier Trail & Timberline

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This photograph from Trail Ridge Road shows some of the debris left by the Lawn Lake Flood. Wikimedia Commons

said than done. The three dams sat at high elevations, above 10,000 feet, and from four to seven miles deep in the backcountry, and an environmental assessment indicated that in the case of the concrete Bluebird Dam, removal potentially threatened the spawning grounds of the greenback cutthroat trout, listed as a threatened species. Bluebird Dam would require special technology.

The removals began in 1988. Using bulldozers and pneumatic drills, workers removed the walls of Pear Lake and Sand Beach dams. But Bluebird Lake presented a special challenge, owing to its cement construction and the trout spawning habitat below the structure. So instead of dynamiting the 60-foot wall—the logical, most inexpensive solution—the engineers in charge employed what was called a Schaeff Walking Excavator with a hydraulic hammer to slowly demolish the structure. This system prevented cement dust from fouling the waters downstream, increasing the acidity of the waters, and perhaps destroying the trout habitat. Because there was no road access, helicopters flew out the rubble. As the work concluded at all three lakes, engineers installed a system of sensors to monitor change in the new system and record the natural revegetation of the sites, and they reintroduced cutthroat trout. Ultimately, Lawn Lake received similar treatment in the first years of the 21st century.

As the years passed, while vestiges of the dams remained, the natural environment began to reestablish itself. Firs and spruces grew up along the shores, and other flora and fauna established themselves, although some biologists estimated that it might take up to two centuries for the entire 34

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process to return the lakes to their natural state prior to dam construction.

Hikes to the Dams

Hiking to these lakes and dam ruins is worth a summer’s outing in Rocky Mountain National Park. All but Lawn Lake can be reached from Wild Basin, the less traveled southeast gateway to the interior, reached off the Peak to Peak Highway a few miles north of Allenspark. The hikes all offer great views, good workouts, and a chance to think about the changing environment and ecology of the region.

The easiest hike is to Sand Beach Lake, noted for the coarse sand that gives the lake its name. To reach the lake, park just past the entrance to Wild Basin, hike north up a steep hillside a short distance to reach the trail, then follow the trail westerly as it winds its way through a canopy of trees with few views. Several miles later, however, after a jaunt through the woods, the trail bursts suddenly into the open at about timberline.

The sights south and west across the lake are invigorating. Mt. Orton rises to the north (and you can summit the peak in an hour of bushwacking). Mt. Meeker lies beyond.

To find the remains of the dam, walk over to the south side of the lake, where you can still see some of the walls, and no doubt sunbathers as well. The lake and the views are worth the effort, and it’s a good spot for swimming and sunbathing if you can find a warm day and stand the cold water.

Pear Lake is a far longer hike. As you approach the Wild Basin parking lot, look for some turnouts marked “Finch Lake” about a half mile before you get to the end of the road. From the trailhead, switchback

up the high ridge, which provides some interesting views of the distant high plains before the trail carries you northwest first to Finch Lake—a pleasant expanse of water always popular with hikers. From there, go on another couple of miles northwest again toward Pear Lake, which has few hikers at any time of year. It’s relatively remote, but worth the expedition on what will be a long day for most hikers.

The last and perhaps most interesting of the hikes to the old dams of Wild Basin is the winding trail to Bluebird Lake, which takes you through some of the Park’s most interesting terrain. Park at Wild Basin itself, then hike west up and over South St. Vrain Creek to the Calypso Cascade, often foaming with white water and cold spray in the spring. From there continue on and up past dramatic views of Mt. Meeker and Long’s Peak to reach the majestic Ouzel Falls, whose waters plunge down from the high ridge above. From Ouzel Falls, the trail winds on to the top of this ridge to the track of the Ouzel Fire, which swept across this space in 1978. Probably started by lightning, the firestorm, a mile wide at some points, swept all the way across the ridge and burned several miles south almost all the way to Allenspark, when the winds finally shifted, saved the town, and allowed firefighters to extinguish the blaze.

Although you can no longer smell the fire, the track of the burn is very evident, along with the minimal growth that has developed over the course of nearly 40 years. Finally, after crossing the burn, the trail bifurcates, with the south track taking you to Ouzel Lake, which is surrounded by trees beneath the slopes of Copeland Mountain.

The trail to Bluebird Lake takes you through the track of the Ouzel Fire. Very little vegetation has regrown since the 1978 inferno. Photo by Jao van de Lagemaat

The west track carries you ever higher on a much narrower, tougher, somewhat brokendown trail to Bluebird Lake. In contrast to cozy Ouzel Lake, there in the shadows of Copeland Mountain, Bluebird Lake lies in a beautiful, but stark gray, landscape surrounded by more distant ridges and mountains high above timberline. What remains of the dam and dam wall lie to the south side of the waters, which still flow through the old spillway site into South St. Vrain Creek. It’s a dramatic contrast to Sand Beach Lake, Pear Lake, and for that matter, the other lakes below timberline in Wild Basin.

The final and fourth hike is to Lawn Lake, impressive for the views of the Mummy Range—and for the stunning destruction en route. To find the trailhead, drive to the main entrance to the Park on Highway 34, continue on Fall River Road to Old Fall River Road, turn left, and look for the Lawn Lake parking lot. From here, the trail, which is not for the out-of-shape, winds up through the trees, and you may be able to harvest mushrooms along the way (but avoid the beautiful red ones with the creamy white spots, which are said to be deadly!)

As you continue on through the trees,

Hiking to one or more of these lakes with these things in mind brings you face to face with the changing ecology of Rocky Mountain National Park and the surrounding region over this span of time.

It’s all worth a summer of exploration and thought. you will suddenly find the immense swath of the Lawn Lake Flood, which carried off just about everything in its path as a wall of water thundered down to Estes Park on that fateful dawn in 1982. In many places, almost nothing has reappeared some 30 years after the flow; all that remains is hard brown soil and the bare rocks protruding

through it. It is a striking example of the power of floods to transform the landscape in an instant! As you pass these thoughtprovoking vestiges of the flood, the valley opens up and you hike again gradually up through an otherwise gorgeous valley, and then make a wide sweeping turn to reach the lake and the ruins of the dam that gave way on that fateful night. It’s a moving experience and a strenuous hike with gorgeous views.

The story of these lakes over the past century and more—the dams, the flood, the reclamation—all reflect the changing values and the differing views of usage of the mountains and public resources over that time. The story also reflects evolving technology, economic development, and the changing thinking about conservation, preservation, and recreation as well. Hiking to one or more of these lakes with these things in mind brings you face to face with the changing ecology of Rocky Mountain National Park and the surrounding region over this span of time. It’s all worth a summer of exploration and thought. △

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The Ten Pass Loop

A Classic Colorado Hike into the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness Story and Photos by Robert Watkins

n Friday, July 19, 2013, we started a tenday backpack into the Maroon Bells– Snowmass Wilderness, led by Dave Callais. Peter Potterfield, in his Classic Hikes of the World, calls the Maroon Bells Circuit “a deep immersion in classic Colorado high country.” This wilderness area is known for its tall peaks, beautiful lakes, high passes, and especially for its meadows full of wildflowers. By taking a full ten-day route, we planned to include portions of the overused four-pass loop but also planned to spend time in less visited areas.

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The plan was for four of us to hike for a full ten days, and two would leave after five days. We started from the Avalanche Creek Trailhead near Carbondale and took two days to hike 11 miles up the valley.

The vegetation was lush and diverse in the riparian corridor with a rich mix of ferns and flowers. There were asters, fireweed, geraniums, wild roses, monkshood, and many others; at one point along a tributary stream, we spotted yellow monkey flowers and golden columbines. It was great going into this particular wilderness with Dave because he knows as much about wildflowers as any hike leader I know. On this trip, he was able to find a number of wildflowers that even he had not seen before.

Left: Capitol Lake. Right: Wildflowers in the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness.

Avalanche Lake

The first night along Avalanche Creek, we found a large campsite that had been used previously by outfitters. Unfortunately, they had left a large pile of discarded food containers along with gas canisters and other debris. Dave took pictures of the dump, including a picture of a discarded cooler with the name of the outfitters, to send to the Forest Service. I spent much of the afternoon sitting by Avalanche Creek on the rocky shoreline watching the fast-moving, clear water. To me the stream represented perpetual motion, constantly moving and changing like the sky, the canyon walls, and the high peaks above.

The second day we continued to climb up the valley, and it became steeper close to the top. Partway up, we passed a beautiful waterfall, which roared down the narrow, forested canyon. I used steady, silent chanting to develop a good hiking rhythm for the many days of climbing ahead. I used “Om mani padme hum,” which I had employed on my Nepal trip to coordinate pace with breathing for maximum efficiency, while possibly also sending good energy out into the universe. I generally hiked with two faster folks in front of me and the rest behind me. Near the top, in an open meadow, we turned to see Capitol Peak towering massively above us. Next, we spotted a porcupine coming down the trail towards us.

It seemed he intended to stay on the trail and expected us to yield. However, he was clearly annoyed when we started taking pictures of him and headed off the trail into the meadow.

When we reached Avalanche Lake, we set up our second camp among tall trees. Dave began fishing and eventually caught a 16inch trout, and we all sampled the luscious, fresh fish later in the evening. Some hiked up to the pass above Capitol Lake where four of us would return at the end of the hike. I worked my way around the lake, across boulder fields and difficult terrain to try to get pictures of Capitol Peak behind the lake. It turned out to be too difficult to get a picture framing both the lake and the peak. On the far side of the lake, I heard strange screaming sounds above me. When I looked up, I saw large ravens flying among the peaks, calling to my solitude.

Lead King Basin

From Avalanche Lake, we climbed steeply to an unnamed pass above the East Fork Creek Basin. This was our first view of the endless mountains and vistas of the wilderness, and we became giddy with our first experience of vast alpine country above treeline. We next hiked around the top of the basin on narrow trail ledges and climbed to a second unnamed pass. The meadows and slopes we hiked through were a riot of colors with sunflowers, columbines, larkspur, sky pilot, and many other flower species. From the second pass we climbed down into the Lead King Basin. On the way down, I slowed my pace, and the others left me behind for a while. I enjoyed the quiet by myself among the wonderful flowers and vistas.

After descending, we walked on a dirt road for several miles to the trailhead for the climb to Geneva Lake. It had become quite hot, and the final climb was very difficult. With the heat sapping my strength, I climbed very slowly and was the last person to reach the lake. It was our most difficult day, having hiked 13.4 miles and gained 3,800 feet of elevation. Geneva Lake was beautiful with the southern sides of Snowmass and Hagerman Peaks above it. With our fatigue, climbing down a little bit to get water and then preparing dinner became difficult chores.

Frigid Air Pass

Next, we hiked steeply down from Geneva Lake into the North Fork Valley. From there we climbed through the woods to the Hasley Basin, which was open country, full of wildflowers. Because it was warm,

we stopped and rested under a small stand of trees for a couple of hours, eating, resting, doing laundry, and treating water from the stream. We packed extra water in case we were able to camp on Frigid Air Pass, where there would be no water. Later in the afternoon, we climbed over an unnamed pass and high into the East Fork Basin. We crossed the basin and began the steep, 400foot climb to the top of Frigid Air Pass.

The weather was clear, and we camped atop the100-foot-wide grassy ridge at an elevation above 12,600 feet. Directly across the basin to the east was dramatic Maroon Peak with its layered geology. We enjoyed taking pictures of a marmot who lounged in the rocks beyond our camp. Late in the evening, the full moon rose above the endless vista. None of us had ever camped before in such a beautiful spot.

Crater Lake

When we awoke on Day 5 at our spectacular campsite, it was beautiful, but a bit cloudy, with the full moon still over the mountains to the west. From the pass we hiked down the south side of the pass and around the basin to climb to West Maroon Pass, and then down beautiful West Maroon Creek to not-so-beautiful Crater Lake, which seemed ragged and muddy compared with the other lakes we had seen.

At Crater Lake there were quite a few people. Up the valley from Crater Lake, the Maroon Bells dominated the scenery. We next hiked down to Maroon Lake and the trailhead, where two people had planned to leave, and we would pick up supplies for the next five days. In fact, three people left the hike.

At the trailhead were hundreds of tourists Trail & Timberline

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who unloaded from buses to see the classic view of Maroon Lake with the Bells behind it. The crowds were a bit overwhelming, but we enjoyed the restrooms with running water. The remaining three of us—Dave, Laura Hansen, and myself—hauled our food back to Crater Lake where we had hidden our packs. From there, we made the climb up Minnehaha Creek to a campsite that Dave and Laura knew about. The campsite consisted of a large, flat area with trees and great views of Pyramid Peak and North Maroon Peak.

I was fortunate to be with two very experienced trekkers. Dave had completed several long-distance trails, including the Colorado Trail, and Laura had hiked the Colorado Trail twice. With just the three of us, the hiking became much calmer and more routine, and we easily fell into a natural order and pace among us.

Willow Lake

On Day 6, we did a short but steep hike over Willow Pass, traveling under North Maroon Peak. From the pass we looked northeast down the Willow Creek Valley and could see the beautiful, dark metallicblue Willow Lake with its sister ponds.

Willow Lake is set in a very open basin with only a few dwarf trees around it. We hiked under clouds and set up camp by the lake.

We spent time washing clothes and cleaning up, using a pot that someone had left at the campsite. Several times strong winds and rain passed over while I napped in my tent. When the rain stopped, we walked

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around the lake. The ridges around the lake had jagged, striated formations. The large boulders we walked over on the south side of the lake were uniformly red.

Two young men came by who were from Mexico City. In a hurry to catch the last bus from Maroon Lake to Aspen, they took a direct line, climbing steeply over a vertical ridge like mountain goats and then down into the unknown on the other side. They were the only people we saw at Willow Lake. That evening I saw two elk grazing on the other side of the lake.

through floral meadows to Snowmass Creek as it started to drizzle. From the valley bottom we climbed a short distance to Snowmass Lake, finding a campsite in the forest along the shore. Unlike other campsites on the trip, where we had been mostly alone, we camped in a small village of campers by the crowded shoreline.

When we got up in the morning, Snowmass Lake, along with Snowmass and Hagerman peaks behind it, glowed in the early morning sun. The shining peaks reflected in the mirror surface of the lake.

Buckskin Pass

Haystack Mountain Pass

From Willow Lake we hiked strongly back over Willow Pass down into the flower-filled meadows below nearby Buckskin Pass. We climbed easily up to the pass. In my mind, Buckskin Pass is the perfect spot to admire the Maroon Bells–Snowmass Wilderness.

To the south and east are the dark, fractured and layered Maroon Bells Peaks and Pyramid Peak, composed of crumbling sedimentary rock. To the west is Snowmass Lake below the sharp, crystalline, and lightcolored Snowmass and Hagerman Peaks, composed of solid granite. With Capitol Peak, Pyramid Peak, the Maroon Bells, and Snowmass Mountain, the wilderness area manages to have a collection of 14,000-foot peaks that are some of the hardest to climb in Colorado. Fortunately, I was with a group that was happy to admire them from afar.

Snowmass Lake

From Buckskin Pass we climbed down

We left Snowmass Lake early on Day 8 and quickly hiked 7 miles down the East Snowmass Trail. At one point along the trail, we could see up into the nearly inaccessible Bear Creek Basin where Pierre Lakes and Capitol Peak were hidden from our view.

Down the valley we had to remove our boots to ford the ice-cold Snowmass Creek.

After putting our boots back on our numb feet, we turned left onto the West Snowmass Trail. We entered cattle country, almost missing our trail at a cattle camp with a large tent. We met a couple from Nebraska who told us about a campsite just below the pass.

They told us it took them eight hours of difficult climbing to get there. We thought, based on their description, it would take us three hours from the cow camp. Rather, it took us one hour and forty-five minutes.

Obviously, our stamina and climbing speed

1. Marmot on Frigid Air Pass 2. Golden Columbine.

3. Maroon Bells from Buckskin Pass. 4. Evening view from Frigid Air Pass.

Day 1: From Avalanche Creek Trailhead climbed halfway up the Avalanche Creek Trail.

Day 2: Climbed the second half of Avalanche Creek Trail to Avalanche Lake.

Day 3: Climbed over two unnamed passes and down into Lead King Basin and up to Geneva Lake.

Day 4: Hiked over unnamed pass to Hasley Basin, climbed over second unnamed pass and climbed to Frigid Air Pass.

Day 5: Hiked over West Maroon Pass and down to Crater Lake and then up Minnehaha Creek.

Day 6: Hiked further up Minnehaha Creek then over Willow Pass to Willow Lake.

Day 7: Hiked back over Willow Pass then over Buckskin Pass then down to Snowmass Lake.

Day 8: Hiked down to West Snowmass Creek then up the creek to campsite below unnamed pass near Haystack Mountain.

Day 9: Hiked over the pass and to Capitol Lake and over pass back to Avalanche Lake.

Day 10: Hiked back down to Avalanche Creek Trailhead.

was at its peak. We headed for an unnamed pass below Haystack Mountain and camped just below the pass on a large ledge. We had views of Mount Daly and many of the mountains of the Maroon–Bells Snowmass Wilderness, including the Maroon Bells and Pyramid Peak. We thought we could see Buckskin Pass and even Willow Pass in the distance.

Capitol Lake

The next morning we climbed a short distance to the top of the unnamed pass, where we looked down on the Capitol Creek valley. In the valley we found cattle, and the trail smelled like manure in places.

But after we came to a fence and went through a gate, the area became much more pristine. We climbed to Capitol Lake, which is a picturesque, aquamarine lake below the high walls of Capitol Peak.

We met some young men who told us that a climber had fallen and died there last Saturday. That same Saturday, when we were back in the Lead King Basin, we had seen rescue helicopters fly over, which were likely associated with the fall from Capitol Peak.

The climber had apparently tried to climb down the sheer north face of the mountain rather than return on the knife-edged ridge.

From the lake we climbed over a pass, and back into the Avalanche Creek valley where we had started the trip. We stopped for an extended period in the meadows below Capitol Peak to admire and take pictures of the wildflowers. It was our last experience of the wild garden meadows. As I lay on the ground, among the vivid flowers, to take a low-angle photograph, I did not want to get up; I could have stayed there among the flowers for hours.

We camped again at Avalanche Lake. In the evening it started to rain, and it rained all night, heavily at times. When we arose in the morning, it was still raining, so we packed up our camp wet and skipped breakfast. It was not long before we and our gear were wet throughout. It rained most of the morning while we hiked quickly down to the trailhead and the car.

According to Dave, in ten days the three of us hiked 88.2 miles over ten mountain passes with a total elevation gain of 23,150 feet. It had been a once-in–a-lifetime experience of natural beauty and fulfilling accomplishment. At the trailhead we retrieved the three ice-cold beers that Dave had left in a bag in the creek tied to a tree root and toasted our success. △ Trail & Timberline

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Tales of Toponymics, Part II A Peek at Naming Peaks

By Woody Smith

B

ased in Reston, Virginia, the US Board on Geographic Names is the final word on US place-names. While each state has its own Board on Geographic Names, these act only in an advisory capacity.

Nonetheless, a proposal stands a far better chance of success if approved by a state board, and almost no chance if disapproved.

Colorado is frequently a target because its many unnamed summits provide a focal point for would-be namers, i.e. people think it would be cool to name a mountain for their favorite cause or historic person. Unlike most government agencies, you can actually keep track of what the USBGN does and why they do it by reviewing the monthly minutes and Quarterly Review List.

A quick glimpse into the USBGN records reveals some interesting statistics for Colorado.

In 2004, five proposals were received; three were not approved.

One of these was a summit in the San Juan Mountains to honor killed or missing servicemen. However, it was decided that local use of Sheep Mountain trumped the new name. The proposal was submitted twice more, changing locations and names before a Mount KIA/MIA was approved in October 2007.

In 2005, nine proposals were submitted, with six not approved.

Five of these concerned renaming the various branches of the Purgatoire River in southeast Colorado. The proponent intended to restore the original 16th century Spanish place-names. For example, the proposal would have changed the Middle Fork Purgatoire River to Middle Fork de Las Animas Perdidas en Purgatario—a mouthful in any language.

USBGN Minutes: “When asked whether the longer names might not prove cumbersome and therefore unlikely to be accepted into local use, the proponent responded that the names are historically correct, and that ‘in the Southwest, citizens pride themselves in making reference to history as it should be.’”

In 2007, 14 proposals were submitted; four were approved. Two of these concerned an error on USGS maps regarding Red Rocks Amphitheatre in Morrison. The official tone is at odds with the venue’s groovy image.

USBGN Minutes: “This proposal is to reverse the application of the two names Creation Rock and Ship Rock. The names refer to two sandstone rock outcrops that together form the two walls of the Red Rocks Amphitheater. Current USGS topographic maps apply the name Creation Rock to the more southerly of the two rock formations, but all evidence suggests that it should be the northern one.”

Ship Rock, on the south, was named for its resemblance to a ship’s prow. Its tilted angle also inspired the informal name Titanic Rock. However, it could be argued that from certain angles, both monoliths resemble ships.

USBGN Minutes: “Research conducted by the USGS staff in Denver has failed to uncover a reason for the names being switched on the current maps; field notes compiled in 1994 do not indicate there was any disagreement regarding name placement.”

The October 3, 2007 Board meeting was particularly productive.

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Of 10 Colorado proposals, only two were approved. Among the rejects were Maltese, Silver, and Cloud Peaks in the Sangre de Cristo Range, and Rejection Point in the Sawatch Range. Also in the Sawatch Range, Mount Agnes Vaille failed, but Agnes Vail Falls became Agnes Vaille Falls.

In 2011 Kit Carson Mountain was the target of three proposals.

One proposal sought a change from Kit Carson Mountain to Crestone Mountain, which was its pre-1920s name. The effort was defeated. The USBGN stated “a reluctance to change a name in longstanding published use, and a concern that by changing the name and adding an additional Crestone name to the area would lead to further confusion.”

Another proposal would have added the name Tranquility Peak to the highest comb on Kit Carson Mountain. A third proposal would have named the same point Kit Carson Peak. Both were rejected, the Board citing “a belief that the peak atop Kit Carson Mountain does not need a separate name.”

For those who delight in the risqué comes a 2005 proposal out of California to change the name of Grabast Canyon, near Fresno, to Grabass Canyon. The proponent argued that local use favored the latter. Despite the state’s background in entertainment, the California Advisory Committee on Geographic Names considered the new name “inappropriate.”

In 2014 the Sedalia, Missouri, city attorney proposed a change from Sewer Branch back to the Pearl River. According to local history, the stream before 1860 was named for the large number of mussel shells found on its bed. By 1875 the stream had become an open sewer which the locals called “Stink Creek.” Over the years, and as efforts continued to force the stream into an underground drain, it became known as Sewer Branch.

USBGN: “The proponent believes a change is needed to establish ‘a much more pleasant sounding name.’” The Board approved the change 9–0.

But image may take a backseat in DuPage County, Illinois, where the Green Valley County Forest Preserve landfill has reached a towering 858 feet. In April 2013 a group of high schoolers proposed the name Garbage Hill, which they claimed had been in local use for at least ten years. Reads the case summary: “The Forest Preserve management has developed the summit into a scenic area, with a picnic table and an access road.” It does sound pastoral. The proposal, slated for an April 2015 vote, is not expected to pass.

To review USBGN Minutes: http://geonames.usgs.gov/domestic/ monthly_minutes.htm To review USBGN Action Lists: http://geonames.usgs.gov/domestic/ quarterly_list.htm Thanks to Jane Messenger and the staff at the USGS in Rolla, Missouri, and to Jenny Runyon at the USBGN in Reston, Virginia.

Jenny Runyon of the USBGN was kind enough to answer some questions about the agency.

Who can propose a place name? Non-citizens?

Anyone, from anywhere. US citizenship is not required.

How does someone propose a name?

Short answer: complete the BGN’s application form, available online at http://geonames.usgs.gov/domestic/index.html, or a paper copy can be provided. Occasionally, a simple email outlining the issue is sufficient, i.e., we don’t require the form be used, although it does make life easier.

Why do proposals fail?

Usually lack of local/state/federal agency/tribal support, and/or the name clearly violates a BGN policy. Or there’s no compelling need to name the feature, although that last part’s very subjective.

Why do proposals succeed?

Well researched, solid evidence of local/state/federal agency/tribal support. Also, the proponent has reviewed the BGN’s principles and policies, he/she includes good justification for the name,and provides accurate geographic location/description of the feature, i.e. he/she has done his/her homework.

Is every proposal accepted for consideration, or is there a review process to determine validity?

Which state has the most proposals? The least proposals? The least conventional proposals?

In the ten years since August 2004 there have been 71 proposals to name or re-name a Colorado landform. Almost half were approved (34), and just over half (37) were disapproved. Is that average compared to other states?

Do you have any suggestions for potential namers?

The BGN accepts for consideration just about any proposal it receives, including frivolous or whimsical names. The only exceptions are for names that clearly honor living person(s) (the BGN’s Commemorative Names Policy states the honoree must have been deceased for at least 5 years), or if it contains one of the two forbidden words (the pejorative form of Negro and the pejorative form of Japanese).

Colorado doesn’t receive a greater number of proposals, per se, but more proposals in Colorado are rejected because the features are more likely to be on federal land and in wilderness areas. The Colorado State Board is not too keen on “feel good” names (e.g. names for organizations that simply want their names on a map), although this is not a BGN policy.

In 2006 and 2010 there were no proposals from Colorado. Is that unusual?

No, it goes in waves!

Have any names been approved recently in Colorado’s wilderness areas?

No. The Colorado Board is becoming more strict, although technically it’s the land management agency that’s becoming more conservative (and that agency then provides its recommendation to the Colorado Board). Also, the BGN staff now asks the proponent to provide a compelling reason why he/she thinks an exception to the Wilderness Policy is warranted before the BGN staff will consider it (before, we would begin processing and ask the proponent to explain later). So, there have been more in recent years that never went anywhere because the proponent never followed up with a reason. After a few months, those cases are just closed.

The BGN never sees them, nor do we ask the Colorado Board or the land management agency to review them.

It fluctuates so much, it’s hard to say. Oregon is dealing with “squaw” changes so it has a lot of pending cases. Illinois has several dozen that were initiated by a geography professor who assigned “complete a geographic name proposal” to his class students. (Among them Garbage Hill.) A list of the pending cases is available in the BGN’s Action List: http://geonames.usgs.gov/domestic/quarterly_list. htm. Several states see one case a year, if that. In general, there is less naming or renaming in the eastern states. “Least conventional” is in the eye of the beholder! We’ve seen all types....

No, other than my answers above. Review the Policies and Procedures first. If possible, get a sense of whether your county government and the land management agency would endorse the name. And check GNIS to make sure the proposed name isn’t duplicated nearby.

What do you like about your job?

Just about everything. The ability to speak with proponents and see a proposal from beginning to completion (i.e. from opening the envelope/email to the final BGN decision). It’s a rare treat in the federal government to take an issue all the way through the process. Also, to speak with “average folks” from all over the country and explain why it’s so important to standardize official names.

Conducting the research required to bring a case to the BGN for a vote. Every case is unique, so while the process and policies are consistent, it’s never tedious. Working with the wonderful BGN members who really appreciate why the BGN has existed since 1890.

What should people know about USBGN?

That the members take the process seriously, and while they all have other jobs, for 2–3 hours a month, they come together (most of them year after year) to represent their agency and to try to do the best for the American people. It’s an under-appreciated job (most people take place names for granted, and the press can be very negative), but the BGN is happy when someone says that what we do is worthwhile.

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CMC Adventure Travel CMC Adventure Travel specializes in active vacations and small group itineraries to inspiring mountain destinations around the world.

See cmc.org/AdventureTravel for complete trip listings, and check back often, as new trips are added by the Adventure Travel Committee throughout the year.

Hiking & Rafting on the Yampa and Green Rivers June 8–12, 2015 Trip Leader: Patrick McKinley CMC Members: $1,312 Non-member Guests: $1,352 Five days of river rafting on the Yampa River through Dinosaur National Monument with day hikes to historical, archeological, and other natural sites. Oar boats, inflatable kayaks, and paddle boats will be used.

In-State Outing: Grand Lake August 2–7, 2015 Director: Linda Ditchkus CMC members: $475 Non-member Guests: $490 The annual In-State Outing is summer camp for adults! Celebrate Rocky Mountain National Park’s 100th anniversary by visiting the Park’s west side with its breathtaking natural beauty, stunning peaks, and lesser-used trails. Camp at Elk Creek Campground, with cabin options. Great food, great company, and great hikes!

Hiking the Hill Towns of Tuscany, Italy August 29–September 11, 2015 Trip Leader: Kris Ashton CMC Members: $3,599 Non-member Guests: $3,709 Explore Florence, Siena, and the hill towns of Montalcino, Pienza, and Montepulciano. Walk from one hill town to the next, with stops in smaller towns along the way. Soak in the thermal waters of Bagno Vignoni, enjoy great Tuscan cuisine and wines, sleep in restored villas, palaces, and an active monastery, and visit four UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Tuscany Cycle Tour September 12–27, 2015 Trip Leader: Denise Snow CMC Members: $4,100 42

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Non-member Guests: $4,250 This bike tour explores the renowned Siena region. The tour includes seven days of cycling averaging 36 miles a day. We will have three days with options including rest, sightseeing, or more cycling.

Best Hikes of Italy September 13–25, 2015 Trip Leader: Kris Ashton CMC Members: $3,975 Non-member Guests: $4,095 Tour the sights of Milan, travel to the Dolomite region, on to beautiful Lake Garda, and then to our final destination, Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera, where we’ll hike the spectacular coastal path, take a cooking class, and enjoy time in the small towns or at the beach.

We’ll end our adventure back in Milan.

Turkey Hike and Culture September 26–October 11, 2015 Trip Leader: Polly Hays CMC Members: $3,790 Non-member Guests: $3,904 This trip includes four days of hiking in the unique desert region of Cappadocia and the Ihlara Valley. Cappadocia is described as both a lunar landscape and a fairyland of bizarre geologic formations which have been carved by people for centuries as homes and safe havens.

Then spend four days hiking on the spectacular coastal Lycian Way. Visits to cultural and historic sites complete the trip, including Istanbul, Konya, and Ephesus.

Khumbu Everest Trek, with Island Peak Option September 26–October 18, 2015 Trip Leader: Pemba Sherpa CMC Members: $3,668 Non-member Guests: $3,778 This classic trek to Everest Base Camp includes climbing to Gorak Shep and Kala Patar (18,000 feet) with its stunning close-

The CMC Adventure Travel Advantage Value: Trips are priced very competitively!

Active Vacations: Your lungs and legs will be rejuvenated.

Small Group Size: A dozen or so travelers are the norm on CMC trips.

Fit & Interesting Participants: The people in your group make a difference!

Enjoy traveling with CMC members who often have similar interests and passions, from high altitude climbing to cultural trekking. Make lasting friendships and even train together!

Solos and Couples Welcome Trips Designed by the

Trip Leaders: Leaders have planned all of the details and often work with local guides to deliver the best possible trip.

Variety of Trips: CMC offers a range of trip prices, trip days, and accommodations, from camping to hotels.

Unique Take on Destinations around the World: As you hike or climb you will have opportunities to explore cultures and experience the natural world to enrich your experience.

Top: Enjoying a sunny day on the Yampa River.

Photo by Patrick McKinley Left: Tour de Mont Blanc. Photo by Linda Ditchkus

Feel Good: Your adventure supports the nonprofit work of the Colorado Mountain Club—conserving wild places and educating all ages in the outdoors.

up view of Mt. Everest, as well as optional climbs of both Island Peak (20,305 feet) and Chukungukla. Visit Kathmandu, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche’s famous monastery, the High Himalayan Rescue Station, and Pheruche.

Anasazi Ruin Bike/Hike Adventure October 4–9, 2015 Trip Leader: Rick Pratt CMC Members: $700 Non-member Guests: $720 Hike and bike in the Cedar Mesa Region of Southeast Utah on a supported camping trip. Visit different and unique ruins and rock art every day.

World Summit Series: Cerro de Aconcagua, 22,841 feet November 22–December 13, 2015 Trip Leader: Bill Blazek CMC Members: $4,000 Non-member Guests: $4,300 Ascend the highest mountain in the western and southern hemispheres, expedition style. Climb in stages, for acclimatization, with a base camp, two intermediate camps, and a high camp. The whole trip is about 52 miles round trip and about 14,000 feet of

elevation gain/loss. Mules will carry the heavy gear to and from base camp (at approx. 14,300 feet). Climbers carry all gear on the upper mountain.

Grand Canyon Raft & Hike 2016 April 23–May 5, 2016 Trip Leaders: Blake Clark and Rosemary Burbank CMC Members: $4,535 Non-member Guests: $4,670 Take a motorized raft trip and add five extra days for hiking along the way. This 12-day raft trip ends with a helicopter ride out of the canyon and a plane flight back to the put-in.

Scotland’s Highland Way and Ben Nevis Climb May 18–31, 2016 Trip Leader: Linda Ditchkus CMC Members: $3,100 Non-member Guests: $3,200 Hike Scotland’s West Highland Way for 95 miles beside lochs, waterfalls, and craggy mountains in the Scottish Highlands.

Then climb to the summit of “the Ben” (4,409 feet), weather permitting. While hiking will be the trip’s focus, the group will also tour medieval Edinburgh, Stirling (famous for being the home of William Wallace), the Eliean Donan Castle in the Scottish Highlands, and a Scotch distillery.

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End of the Trail Peter Laux ▶ 1938–2015

By Dick Louden

I first got to know something of John Peter “Pete” Laux, when in August of 2006, I received an urgent call from a friend. She said, “Peter Laux is leading a hike to Isabelle Glacier. He knows a lot about it. You like glaciers; you should come!” I had not been on one of his hikes, but his reputation preceded him. I was very interested but had a conflict. I gave my friend, Roxanne, a list of questions that she might sneak into a discussion at the glacier. Apparently Peter spotted the shill in the crowd right away. He took the sheet home with him and wrote out careful answers to each of the questions. He assumed I was not a geologist and took great care to use a minimum of technical words. I was impressed.

After that I went on all of the Laux hikes that I could. He kept a brisk pace but always stopped long enough for his nature talks that slower people (sometimes me) could catch up. I was surprised to learn that he knew just as much about plants, trees, and animals in the Rockies as he knew about the geology of many parts of the world.

Pete passed away peacefully after a short illness on February 6, 2015. He was an avid hiker, Native Plant Master, and geologist, as well as an active trip leader for the Denver Group. Peter also volunteered at Roxborough and Castlewood Canyon State Parks and the Denver Museum of Nature and Science.

It took a while for Pete and I to find out that we were both geologists who had specialized in the offshore Gulf Coast. We knew the cause of the British Petroleum Horizon blowout days after

Peter leading one of his favorite hikes, on Isabelle Glacier, August 26, 2009. Photo by Carl Slater

it occurred and years before federal hearings decided we were right. Before retirement, our offices were just a few blocks apart but we never met until we joined the CMC. Our last walk was in the fall of 2013 along the Devil’s Backbone Trail northwest of Loveland. It seemed to us like a little piece of Appalachian geology in the Rockies. We were so taken with it that we speculated about doing a series of hikes together featuring spectacular geology.

It is being said that, “Peter Laux has his boots on and is hiking in heaven.” It makes good sense to me.

Rick Hahn ▶ 1946–2015

By Dave Bebell, CMC Trip Leader

Rick Hahn passed away on January 25, 2015, after a long fight with pulmonary fibrosis. Rick was a CMC Denver Group member and trip leader, and loved his adventures in the high country. I met Rick in September of 2000, when we separately signed up for a CMC trip to Navajo Lake to climb the Wilsons and El Diente. Through the climb, Rick and I forged a partnership and friendship that lasted the rest of our lives together.

Rick and I each had climbed over 40 Fourteeners, but we both had several of Colorado’s hardest left to climb—so we joined our efforts on Wilson Peak, Mount Wilson, El Diente, Blanca Peak, Little Bear, Ellingwood, Pyramid, and Maroon Peak. In doing so, we helped each other toward our goal of climbing all 54 Fourteeners, accomplished shortly afterward. Along the way, we shared many stories of the high mountains —including Rick’s climbs on three of the Seven Summits, where he ascended Kilimanjaro and Mount Elbrus, and came close to the top of Aconcagua.

Rick was an accomplished mountain climber, comfortable with dizzying heights, snow climbs, scree and talus slopes, roped ascents, backpacking, and camping in the wilderness. Our strengths complimented one another, and we made a good team. Rick also had many other interests: flying, motorcycling, track racing, and especially his skiing and ski racing with his family.

Rick Hahn (left) and Dave Bebell on the summit of Little Bear Peak, July 28, 2001.

Photo by Dave Bebell

As Rick went through the challenges of pulmonary fibrosis, his lung transplant, and the treatments that followed, we didn’t climb any more mountains together—but we shared many a beer, meal, and Broncos game. We never ran out of stories to share, either.

Rick made an impact on my life, and I am richer for his company.

Happy trails, friend—until we meet again!

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