Trend Analysis AW 18/19

Page 1

01. PLASTIC FASHION

FASH 503 Christina Greifenstein 09/18/2018


The futuristic fashion trend using plastic (Vinyl or PVC) has left the runways and is now successfully conquering the streets. Apart from accessories and footwear made out of plastic - mostly the apparel industry tackles the masses.

PLASTIC

This synthetic fiber is now considered fashionable, even though it was once used for the mass market. Consequently this material became (once again) a trickle-up trend. Starting out in fall 2017 as a micro-trend, plastic is now widely accepted. Especially for the SS18 and FW18 fashion shows many designers got inspired by the material.


BACKGROUND

PLASTIC

In the 1960s, PVC was first introduced in clothing and reflects the emerging space-age-mentality.

After the ‘60s, plastic looks came to an end. Nevertheless, later on designers were again inspired by the material, the unique texture and shaping abilities.

André Courrèges, L’Officiel, 1968 Pierre Cardin, 1969. Plastic is a trickel-up trend, as it has traditionally been associated with pure function (grocery bags, Tupperware, water bottles etc.) rather than luxury. Apart from coats and accesories, like shoes and bags, the slip over dress was widely accepted.

Miu Miu, Fall 17 FW 18/19 is the third season in which this trend has appeared. Miu Miu, Calvin Klein and Pucci introduced it last year, whereas Chanel launched bags, boots and rain coats in the SS 18 collection

Perry Ellis, 1990s


RUNWAY

PLASTIC

Marine Serre tints everything with various boldly colored cellophane-style looks.

Philipp Plein experimentated with layering clear overcoats on top of faux fur and metallic pieces.

Marine Serre, Fall 18 Balmain, Fall 18 While Balmain evokes iridescent looks with holographic PVC, John Galliano used clear plastic for the Margiela collection.

Maison Margiela, Fall 18 Sally LaPointe took inspiration from a science fiction western, with a variety of fabrications and also the high-shine vinyl coats.

Phillipp Plein, Fall 18

Sally LaPointe, SS 19


CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

PLASTIC

Vinyl and PVC apparel have proved a street style favourite over the past few seasons. While Sarah Brody is wearing a daring red colored coat, Yoyo Cao convinces with a layered transparent overcoat with black piping over her classic camel trench.

Nicki Minaj is showcasing this iridescent transparent coat in her new video Barbie Dreams. Nicki Minaj

Yoyo Cao With her futuristic outfit stylist Tess Yopp is creating kaleidoscopic clashes among different materials and prints. Sarah Brody

Tess Yopp


SHOP IT

PLASTIC

While SHEIN sells a daring red coat, ASOS offers a variety of styles and colors.

This pink transparent trench coat is offered at TOPSHOP for the price of US$125.00.

Urban Outfitter’s products range from seethrough coats with refined red piping to iridescent looks.


INDIVIDUALS

PLASTIC

Predominantly, one notes red and transparent looks on the street. Although the holographic looks are very popular amnog teenagers.


COLOR PALETTE

PLASTIC

While mostly transparent – but also iridiscent – looks are dominating, one can define red as the upcomming color to wear. Less popular are yellow and green plastic coats, though they are still having a relevant resonance.


REFERENCES

PLASTIC

Most loved look from Calvin Klein’s collection for Fall 2017

ARTICLES Brannigan, M. (2018, 03) Designers Want You Coated in Shimmery, Holographic Iridescence for Fall. Fashionista. Retrieved from https://fashionista. com/2018/03/fashion-week-fall-2018-trend-iridescent-holographic-fabric. 15 September 2018. Darcella, A. (2018, 03) Plastic Fantastic: A Brief History of Plastic Clothes. Fashion Unfiltered. Retrieved from https://fashionunfiltered.com/style/2018/ plastic-fashion-trend-history/. 15 September 2018. Dickinson, C. (2018, 08) Way Out West 2018: Young Women Apparel. WGSN, Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/80410/ page/4. 15.September 2018 Howard, F. (2018, 07) Vinyl extends to outerwear and casual trousers. WGSN. Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/80033/ page/9. 15 September 2018. Murray, G. (2018, 02) How To Wear This Season’s Plastic Fashion In Real Life. Retrieved from https://www.refinery29.uk/2018/02/187645/plastic-fashion-trend. 15 September 2018. Zarrella, K. (2018, 03) Seeking a Look For the End of the World. Retrieved from https://fashionunfiltered.com/runway/2018/fall-2018-ready-to-wear-season-recap/. 15 September 2018.


REFERENCES

PLASTIC

IMAGES INTRO

http://assets.vogue.com/photos/58916efb8c64075803ad034f/ master/pass/05-pvc-street-style.jpg http://visual-therapy.com/blog/on-trend-pvc-party/

BACKGROUND

https://www.pinterest.at/pin/502432902163197172/?lp=true https://i.pinimg.com/originals/72/86/6c/72866ce9ae5a7b8c396b8c44b76fb08a.jpg https://www.flickr.com/photos/kahluacream/2677026187/in/photostream/ https://fashionunfiltered.com/style/2018/plastic-fashion-trend-history

RUNWAY

https://fashionunfiltered.com/style/2018/plastic-fashion-trend-history/ https://sallylapointe.com/look/ss19-look-01/ https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/phillipp-pleinrtw-fall-1202551586/#!42/philipp-plein-show-runway-fall-winter2018-new-york-fashion-week-usa-10-feb-2018-45

CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/80478/page/7 https://www.refinery29.uk/2018/02/187645/plastic-fashion-trend https://hollywoodlife.com/pics/nicki-minaj-music-video-barbiedreams-pics-photos/#!18/nicki-minaj-barbie-dreamz-music-videopics-18 http://themodernclassics.blogspot.com/

SHOP IT

https://us.shein.com/Contrast-Binding-Transparent-Coat-p-531554cat-1735.html https://www.annic.com/lifestyle/trend-de-leukste-herfstwinter-trendsvan-201415/ https://us.asos.com/asos-tall/asos-design-tall-rain-jack-

et-with-contrast-binding/prd/9264533?affid=14174&channelref=product+search&mk=abc&currencyid=2&ppcadref=753857714%7C38363307046%7Cpla-278857436350&browsecountry=US&_ cclid=v3_3f4aeada-d0c9-5e15-b682-7a380f0d5505&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuuXWy8TF3QIVloWzCh3MZwLlEAQYBiABEgJ7BPD_BwE http://us.topshop.com/en/tsus/product/clothing-70483/jackets-coats-2390895/ clear-vinyl-trench-coat-7592232?bi=0&ps=20 http://euimages.urbanoutfitters.com/is/image/UrbanOutfittersEU/5133391011200_066_b?%24medium%24

INDIVIDUALS

http://visual-therapy.com/blog/on-trend-pvc-party/ https://www.styledumonde.com/2017/03/paris-fashion-week-fall-2017street-style-yoyo-cao-red/ https://www.popsugar.com/fashion/photo-gallery/44337094/image/44337520/Add-ladylike-slingbacks-bring-balance-your-outfit https://myluxgem.com/wp/product/harajuku-blouse-women-tops-hologram-laser-sympony-shine-sun-protection-clothing-transparent-iridescent-sunscreen-dance-clothes/

COLOR PALETTE

https://us.asos.com/asos-tall/asos-design-tall-rain-jacket-with-contrastbinding/prd/9264533?affid=14174&channelref=product+search&mk=abc&currencyid=2&ppcadref=753857714%7C38363307046%7Cpla-278857436350&browsecountry=US&_cclid=v3_ 3f4aeada-d0c9-5e15-b682-7a380f0d5505&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuuXWy8TF3QIVloWzCh3MZwLlEAQYBiABEgJ7BPD_BwE

http://www.thedollsfactory.com/2017/06/fashion-trend-plastic-fantastic. html/fashion-trend-pvc-calvin-klein-plastic-fur-coat https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/80478/page/7 https://fashionunfiltered.com/style/2018/plastic-fashion-trend-history

REFERENCES

http://www.thedollsfactory.com/2017/06/fashion-trend-plastic-fantastic. html/fashion-trend-pvc-calvin-klein-plastic-fur-coat



02. SHEARLING

FASH 503 Christina Greifenstein 09/25/2018


SHEARLING

The name shearling derives from the fact, that the material is made out of unsheared lamb- or sheepskin. The exterior of a shearling coat is in general suede, or smooth leather whereas soft, shaved fur is on the inside. It is worn in various colors, mostly in shades of brown and in black, which are the results of a tanning process. Once it indicated the social status, but nowadays it transitioned from a 70s-cult-symbol to an everyday fashion trend, which is replicated in various synthetic materials. Shearling is not only used for coats and jackets but also for shoes, gloves and hats. As the trend of the shearling coat started several seasons ago it might have arrived at its peak the upcomming season FW18/19, marking the maturity phase in the fashion cycle.


BACKGROUND

SHEARLING

Back in the Stone Age sheepskin was a precious material to keep warm against harsh weather conditions. In the Iron Age it’s quality started to indicate social status but it was not until the Middle Ages that Nomads from Eurasia gave the material a touch of design. From the Victorian Age onwards it was predominantly used for masculine winter coats.

Steve McQueen, 1970s

In the 1940s the shearling-lined B-3 sheepskin bomber jackets became a status symbol for american pilots. In WW II, as women took over men’s jobs, they got to wear the same model.

In the 1950s the Shearling Jacket was highly popularised by Hollywood stars such as Marlon Brando and James Dean. Until the 70s it remains a masculine trend.

It was not until the 70s that the shearling coat became a trend for both men and women and evolved into a cult.

In Fall 2009 Jean Paul Gaultier brought the shearling back on the runway with his Aviator collection for Hermes.

James Dean, Giant, 1956 Jean Paul Gaultier for Hermes, 2009


RUNWAY

SHEARLING

Ever since Fall 2016 the shearling coat is presented by various brands on the runways. Nevertheless, this trend lasts also for the upcomming season, F/W 18/19.

Ermanno Scervino, FW 18/19

Max Mara, FW 17/18

Dior, FW 18/19

Gigi Hadid for Tod’s, FW 18/19 Victoria Beckham, FW 18/19


CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

SHEARLING

The trend was not only adopted by fashion leaders but spread over various sectors and gained popularity with actors, artists, etc.

Italian blogger and CEO Chiara Ferragni with a light brown shearling coat

Keira Knightley

Alexa Chung

RIhanna Kendall Jenner


SHOP IT

SHEARLING

The trend has long left the runways and is now available also at fast fashion brands for the average person at various price ranges and fake materials.

H&M offers a low price shearling coat ($49) in two different colors, black and light taupe.

Urban Outfitters, $169

Asos, $72


INDIVIDUALS

SHEARLING

The trend has taken over the streets and is woren mostly in brown and black by women in various ages.


COLOR PALETTE

SHEARLING

Brown shades are the most popular colors for shearling coats as they evoke the impression of high quality sheepskin. But also shearling coats dyed in grey/taupe and black are seen a lot.


REFERENCES

SHEARLING

ARTICLES American Mystique (2017, 07) History of Shearling Jackets. American Msytique. Retrieved from https://www.americanmystique.com/blog/history-of-shearling-jackets/. 21 September 2018. De Reviziis, S. (2016, 12) Shearling coat selection. welovefur. Retrieved from https://www.welovefur.com/shearling-coat-mine-is-cool/. 21 September 2018. Park, M. (2018, 04) Fashion Week Streets A/W 18/19: Jackets & OuterwearShearling Moto Jacket. WGSN. Retrieved form https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/78383/page/8. 21. September 2018 Sinclair, R. (2017, 02) Design Development A/W 18/19: Jackets & Outerwear - New Aviator. WGSN. Retrieved form https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/70610/page/8. 21. September 2018 WGSN (2017, 03) Retro Shearling. WGSN. Retrieved form https://www.wgsn. com/content/board_viewer/#/71302/page/1. 21. September 2018


REFERENCES

SHEARLING

IMAGES INTRO

https://honestlywtf.com/sightings/spotted-shearling-coats/

https://www.lyst.com/clothing/acne-velocite-shearling-jacket-ash-grey/

BACKGROUND

https://therake.com/stories/style/style-101-the-shearling-jacket/ https://www.nationalww2museum.org/students-teachers/student-resources/research-starters/women-wwii http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/alltherage/2012/06/jamesdean-giant-coat.html https://www.welovefur.com/shearling-coat-mine-is-cool/ https://the-perfect-casual.tumblr.com/post/74753255990/steve-mcqueen-keeping-toasty-in-a-shearling-coat https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-towear/hermes/slideshow/collection#32

RUNWAY

https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-shows/shows/defile/pret-a-porterfemme-automne-hiver-2017-2018-milan-max-mara/20808#defile-11 http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/collections-fall-winter-2018-19/tods https://www.ermannoscervino.com/us/fashion-show-fw https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/shows-trends/ g18208986/autumn-fall-2018-coat-trends/?slide=10 http://www.peclersparis.com/uncovercolor/portfolio-item/ colorsintherunway-2/

CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

https://www.eonline.com/uk/photos/6/the-big-picture-today-shot-photos/530680 http://www.celebritystyleguide.com/i-1-1-15844/celebrities/ alexa-chung/acne-studios-velocite-shearling-moto-coat http://www.laiamagazine.com/shop-what-style-influencers-arewearing-for-new-york-fashion-week-fall-2016/

https://www.instyle.com/news/blake-lively-rocks-luxe-ralph-laurenshearling-gossip-girl https://www.refinery29.com/2017/02/141341/kendall-jenner-asos-menswear-shearling-jacket https://www.whowhatwear.com/rihanna-winter-outfit-trend-all-white

SHOP IT

https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/shop/uo-athena-aviator-jacket?adpos=1o3&cm_mmc=SEM-_-Google-_-PLA-_-434885068274_product_type_womens_product_type_apparel_product_type_outerwear&color=016&creative=209990449607&device=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx-jBopjL3QIVi4vICh26gwKSEAQYAyABEgKUHfD_BwE&inventoryCountry=US&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3274192043&mrkgcl=671&network=g&product_ id=47467089&utm_campaign=PLA https://us.asos.com/asos/asos-faux-shearling-coat/prd/7813112?r=1 http://www2.hm.com/en_us/productpage.0661152002.html

INDIVIDUALS

https://www.popsugar.com/fashion/photo-gallery/38837600/image/38837580/Snow-Queen https://honestlywtf.com/sightings/spotted-shearling-coats/ http://www.hermust.com/winter-inspiration-ideas/ https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/street-style/g5411/fashionweek-fall-2015-street-style-trends/?slide=76 http://collagevintage.com/tag/sportmax/

COLOR PALETTE

https://www.lyst.com/clothing/acne-velocite-shearling-jacket-ash-grey/ https://www.shearling.com/ https://www.lexingtoncompany.com/en/elisa-shearling-jacketchipmunk-brown-aw17

REFERENCES

https://www.whowhatwear.com/best-friend-matching-outfits



03. NEON FASHION

FASH 503 Christina Greifenstein 10/02/2018


NEON FASHION

The neon colors are widely accepted, both on the runways and in every-day life. Apart from neon coats, also accessories, single pieces, as well as whole body outfits in neon are popular. The trend is not limited to one particular design or fabric but incorporates a variety. Once a symbol of rebellion within the punk culture, fluorescent colors conquered the masses back in the mid 80s as an optimistic response to the tumultuous 70s. The neon colors started to appear on runways ever since SS17 and were now widely adopted for the FW18/19 collections - which might be the last season of this trend as it will soon reach the maturity level.


BACKGROUND

NEON

Neon was discovered in 1898 by the chemist Sir William Ramsay in London. After the Salon de l’Automobile in Paris introduced neon signs in 1910 they became popular and were used on a large scale in America. In the 1950s Andy Warhol used neon colors for his screen printings, but it was not until the 1980s that they were used in fashion.

In the 80s the punk subculture would start to dye their hair in blazing colors until they would trickle-up. The entertainment industry contributed greatly in spreading the neon colors among a vast majority of people. It was not only popular in Hollywood films during the 80s, but also in TV - especially ever since the release of MTV.

Madonna, 1980s

George Michael, 1984


Both Prada and Moschino incorporate more than one neon color in a single outfit, thus emphasizing the visual impact.

Marni incorporated a cat print on a neon pink coat. The bright green cat eyes create a harsh contrast with the predominant pink.

RUNWAY

NEON

While Balmain created a neon yeollow plastic jacket, Carolina Herrera adds a collar with an animal pattern to the bright yellow coat.

Moschino, Fall 2018 Runway Prada, Fall 2018

Balmain, Fall 2018

Carolina Herrera, Fall 2018

Marni, Fall 2018


CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

NEON

The neon trend even reached the Royals: Kate Middelton wearing a neon pink coat.

Blake Lively

Jordyn Woods & Kylie Jener

Kim Kardashian

BeyoncĂŠ in total yellow. Bella Hadid


SHOP IT

NEON

Topshop is offering verious designs which all come in a variety of colors. Prices range from US$70 to US$100.

Forever 21 has the cheapest price compared to the other mainstream fashion brands at only US$ 28. Further they offer the same design also in orange and pink.

This blazer was originally US$ 230 on asos, but was reduced to a price of US$ 70.


INDIVIDUALS

NEON

This trend is already whole-heartedly accepted in various neon colors, designs and fabrics.


COLOR PALETTE

NEON

These four colors are pretty much equally adopted, even though yellow and pink might be slightly prevailing.


REFERENCES

NEON

ARTICLES 80s Fashion (2015, 03) Neon Clothing. Retrieved September 30, 2018 from http://www.80sfashion.org/neon-clothing/ Allende, M. (2016, 09) Spring 2017 Fashion Trends from New York Fashion Week: Neon Colors. Women’s Wear Daily. Retrieved September 30, 2018 from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-trends/new-york-fashion-week-september-2016-trend-neon-colors-10553813/ Mangum, A. (2007,12) Neon: A Brief History. New York Magazine. Retrieved September 30, 2018 from http://nymag.com/shopping/features/41814/ Yotka, S. (2018, 08) The Top Trends of Fall 2018: The Women’s and Men’s Edition. Vogue. Retrieved September 30, 2018 from https://www.vogue.com/ article/fall-2018-trend-report-womens-mens Zhang, J. (2018, 09) Neon Pink: China Colour Alert. WGSN. Retrieved September 30, 2018 https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/81098/page/1 Zettenis, V. (2018, 06) New Neons: Catwalk Trend Alert. WGSN. Retrieved September 30, 2018 https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/79517/ page/1


IMAGES

REFERENCES

NEON

INTRO

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/470204017320341048/ https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/style-files/a22763831/ blake-lively-steps-out-in-head-to-toe-neon-green/

BACKGROUND

http://targetexpress.biz/tag/80s-punk-fashion-images/ https://www.rediscoverthe80s.com/2017/04/80s-fashionand-skincare-flashback.html https://ar.pinterest.com/pin/363947213624779119/?lp=true https://www.rediscoverthe80s.com/2017/04/80s-fashionand-skincare-flashback.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIgZ7gMze7A

RUNWAY

https://www.vogue.com/article/fall-2018-trend-report-womens-mens http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/collections-fall-winter-2018-19/balmain

CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

https://www.rd.com/culture/kate-middleton-princess-diana-fashion/ https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/style-files/a22763831/ blake-lively-steps-out-in-head-to-toe-neon-green/ https://fashionmagazine.com/fashion/celebrities-wearing-neon/ https://www.instagram.com/kyliejenner/ https://www.standard.co.uk/fashion/neon-trend-kim-kardashian-bella-hadid-kylie-jenner-a3870976.html https://www.vogue.com/article/beyonce-celebrity-street-style-2015

SHOP IT

https://www.forever21.com/us/shop/catalog/product/F21/ branded-shop/2000319320/01?mrkgcl=1207&mrkgadid=3285855643&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA_-_NB%7CW%7CApparel&utm_

term=437322221469_product_type_womens_apparel_product_ type_outerwear_product_type_jac&utm_content=(not_set)&product_ id=2000319320013&adpos=1o18&creative=264474997170&device=c& matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi8fdBRCVARIsAEkDvnLEkwEn_ HH0LxSdete2BwwCuB__qZNhl4Xi8oRSzTRtPsLqpw0lFy0aAkqsEALw_wcB http://us.topshop.com/en/tsus/product/clothing-70483/jackets-coats-2390895/petite-raw-hem-shacket-7693044 http://us.topshop.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=&langId=-1&storeId=13052&catalogId=33060&parent_categoryId=208580&categoryId=208640&productId=32720982 https://us.asos.com/resume/resume-fenja-fluted-sleeve-neon-pinkblazer/prd/8957692?clr=435-sorbet&SearchQuery=neon&gridcolumn=2&gridrow=10&gridsize=4&pge=2&pgesize=72&totalstyles=141

INDIVIDUALS

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/351703052143828483/ https://www.justaprettystyle.com/2013/12/everythings-black-except-yellowneon.html https://www.thebudgetbabe.com/archives/6812-Bloggers-Rocking-BudgetFinds-Chic-Choolee,-Hitha-On-The-Go-and-More.html#extended https://www.pinterest.de/pin/526850856382267426/ https://www.vogue.com/article/street-style-trends-spring-2018-ready-towear-fashion-week https://www.pinterest.de/pin/673288213012878781/ https://www.pinterest.de/pin/313915036512032525/

COLOR PALETTE

https://www.instagram.com/kyliejenner/ https://www.pinterest.de/pin/351703052143828483/ ttp://us.topshop.com/en/tsus/product/clothing-70483/jackets-coats-2390895/petite-raw-hem-shacket-7693044 https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/style-files/a22763831/blakelively-steps-out-in-head-to-toe-neon-green/

REFERENCES

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/473440979555309012/



04. DENIM JACKET

FASH 503 Christina Greifenstein 10/08/2018


The denim jacket has been trending for several seasons now - nevertheless, various brands just presented their SS19 collection featuring denim jackets in different hues and styles.

DENIM JACKET

Due to the fabric’s high resistance, it was once common among goldmine workers. In the 1950s and 1960s it was then popularized by celebrities in the film industry and adopted by the masses. It seems like the trend has not yet arrived at its peak, as many brands just presented it for upcomming Spring/Summer. Instead, the jeans jacket might have reached the status of a classic item.


BACKGROUND

Denim Jacket

In the 18th century, the first jeans was accidentally discovered by people in Nimes, France, who tried to replicate a sturdy Italian fabric called serge. It was not until 1853 when Levi Strauss, a bavarian immigrant, came to San Francisco during the Gold Rush that blue denim pants were widely adopted by miners. Jeans then also became popular among cowboys and polo players and only 10 years afterwards Levi Strauss introduced the denim jacket.

Levis Strauss, around 1900

Levis Strauss Commercial

In 1955, James Dean popularized the blue denim jeans in the film Rebel Without a Cause. Especially due to the film being showed in color, the blue denim was given major attention.

James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, 1955

We can credit Marilyn Monroe for opening the gates of denim for women, as she wore them in one of her most popular films: The Misfits.

Marilyn Monroe in The Misfits, 1961

Elvis Presley


RUNWAY

Denim Jacket

For Spring Summer 2019, denim is trending on the runways. It was presented in various colors and styles, even though the typical cut inspired by Levis prevailed.

Christian Wijnantes, SS19 Y-Vision and Jessie&Jane SS19

Isabel Marant, SS 19

MiuMiu, SS19

Off-White, SS19


CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

Denim Jacket

The trend was not only adopted by fashion leaders but spread over various sectors and gained popularity with actors, artists, etc.

Ariana Grande

Gigi Hadid

Kristen Stuart

Selena Gomez

Cardi B

Jennifer Lawrence


SHOP IT

Denim Jacket

The trend has long left the runways and is now available also at fast fashion brands for the average person at various price ranges. While most brands offer light washed denim jackets, a few also have dark ones.

Levis, $45 asos, $42

Free People, $108

Urban Outfitters, $49

Gap, $35


INDIVIDUALS

Denim Jacket

The trend has taken over the streets. Most women wear a lightly belached version. Also denim on denim is a popular combination.


COLOR PALETTE

Denim Jacket

Light washed denim is the most popular and adopted. Nevertheless, also darker shades are seen.


REFERENCES

Denim Jacket

ARTICLES Wright, J. (2015, 02) The Complete History of Blue Jeans, From Miners to Marilyn Monroe. Racked. Retrieved from https://www.racked. com/2015/2/27/8116465/the-complete-history-of-blue-jeans-from-miners-tomarilyn-monroe. 7 October 2018. Levis Strauss (2018) Our story. Levi Strauss. Retrieved from https://www.levi. com/GB/en_GB/features/about-us. 7 October 2018. Vogue (2018) Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www. vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear. 7 October 2018. Peclers (2018) Women’s Fashion Trend Book. Peclers Paris. Retrieved from http://www.peclersparis.com/en/trend-books/translating-trends-into-products/ womens-fashion-trendbook-1920. 7 October 2018.


REFERENCES

Denim Jacket

IMAGES INTRO

https://us.boohoo.com/cindy-light-wash-denim-jacket/ DZZ74740.html https://www.pinterest.de/pin/361554676325359065/

BACKGROUND

https://www.brightstarcare.com/fairfield/blog/1873-levistrauss-patents-copper-riveted-jeans-great-idea https://www.levi.com/GB/en_GB/features/about-us https://www.racked.com/2015/2/27/8116465/the-completehistory-of-blue-jeans-from-miners-to-marilyn-monroe http://classiq.me/marilyn-monroes-tomboyish-style-in-the-misfits

RUNWAY

https://nowfashion.com/collections?utf8=%E2%9C%93&set=Spring+Summer+2019+Ready+to+Wear&designer= https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50716 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50716 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50471

CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/546413367262856587/ https://www.whowhatwear.com/celebrities-wearing-redone-jeans https://www.pinterest.com/pin/771522979887199145/ https://www.pinterest.de/pin/562316703449265532/?lp=true https://weheartit.com/paula_ig/collections/24721317-ariana-grande-33 http://www.gotceleb.com/jennifer-lawrence-in-jeans-jacketout-in-new-york-city-2017-06-16.html

SHOP IT

https://www.levi.com/US/en_US/clothing/women/outerwear/ ex-boyfriend-trucker-jacket/p/299440024 https://www.freepeople.com/shop/cropped-den-

im-jacket2/?adpos=1o23&color=040&countryCode=US&creative=264737540599&device=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0ceu2b353QIVCovICh0L2wpZEAQYFyABEgIywfD_BwE&inventoryCountry=US&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3205912988&mrkgcl=720&network=g&product_id=46802260&size=L&utm_campaign=rkg_plas_ Non-Brand_us&utm_content=Denim&utm_term=46802260 https://www.gap.com/browse/product.do?pid=282315002&CAWELAID=120280880001671250&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID= 59544524397&CATCI=pla-531501983018&tid=gppl000001&kwid=1&ap=7&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0O2qmL753QIVAUsNCh1REQPgEAQYByABEgLziPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/shop/bdg-80s-trucker-jacket?adpos=1o7&cm_mmc=SEM-_-Google-_-PLA-_-261275982682_ product_type_w_product_type_app_product_type_outerwear_brand&color=091&creative=209990449607&device=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0ceu2b353QIVCovICh0L2wpZEAQYByABEgI0tvD_BwE&inventoryCountry=US&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3144624609&mrkgcl=671&network=g&product_ id=45489788&utm_campaign=PLA https://us.asos.com/noisy-may/noisy-may-denim-jacket/ prd/9191358?affid=14174&channelref=product+search&mk=abc&currencyid=2&ppcadref=753857714%7C38363332206%7Cpla-523458317717&browsecountry=US&_cclid=v3_ 80f9e3a3-d194-54e7-84e4-269c93b2b4b3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp9vr2b_53QIVj1YNCh3rZwtZEAQYAiABEgJve_D_BwE

INDIVIDUALS

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/486388828502318559/ https://www.pinterest.de/pin/410179478553982288/ http://wheretoget.it/link/2601223 https://www.pinterest.de/pin/800585271235757098/ https://www.pinterest.de/pin/593841900841215784/

COLOR PALETTE

https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50716 https://www.pinterest.de/pin/455145106086399592/

REFERENCES

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/565975878162368601/



05. BROAD SHOULDERS

FASH 503 Christina Greifenstein 10/15/2018


BROAD SHOULDERS

Broad shoulders can already be seen among some early adopters, but are expected to hit the fashion world on a brad level in Spring/ Summer 2019. Shoulder pads are incorporated in various designs, although blazers are predominant. Once used only in military uniforms for protective reasons, first in the 1940s but particularly in the 80s shoulder pads were adopted by every woman. The trend has not yet arrived at its peak, as brands on a broad level just presented many jackets and coats with broad shoulders for their Spring/Summer 2019 collection.


BACKGROUND

BRAD SHOULDERS

The origins of shoulder pads can be traced back to protective shoulder padding in military uniforms. The Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli was the first to experiment with shoulder pads in her suits, coats and even dresses, which attired much of attention due to the highly unconventional connotations. Yves Saint Laurent, 1971

Elsa Schiaparelli, 1930s After WW II began, women’s clothing was increasingly militarised. As women took over men’s jobs, also their style altered towards a more impressive and solid appearance.

Christian Dior, New Look, 1947

After the end of the war, women’s look became again more feminine. Christian Dior in particular, highly influenced this period of time with the “New Look” which was broadly adopted by other designer and the public.

In 1971, Yves Saint Laurent was hugely critized for bringing back the 40s. Throughout the decade though, more and more inspiration was drawn from this period. With the 80s and women working in the same jobs as men, shoulder pads underlined the power of the ambitious working women. Giorgio Armani tapped into this market and became particularly notorious for his suits. From the working industry, shoulder pads then trickled accross to every day life.

Giorgio Armani, 1980s


RUNWAY

BRAD SHOULDERS

For Spring Summer 2019, denim is trending on the runways. It was presented in various colors and styles, even though the typical cut inspired by Levis prevailed.

John Galliano, SS19 Louis Vuitton, SS19 Dolce&Gabbana, SS19

Stella McCartney, SS 19

Ermanno Scervino, SS19

Balenciaga, SS19

Balmain, SS19


CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

BRAD SHOULDERS

The trend was not only adopted by fashion leaders but spread over various sectors and gained popularity with actors, artists, etc.

Emma Watson

Meghan Markle Lady Gaga

Julia Roberts

Anne Hathaway

BeyoncĂŠ


SHOP IT

BROAD SHOULDERS

Most fast fashion retailers offer a padded shoulder blazer, although more and more coats in various colors and styles with particularly broad shoulders enter the market.

H&M, $35 Urban Outfitters, $130

Mango, $230

asos, $90 Topshop, $120


INDIVIDUALS

BRAD SHOULDERS

The trend is already adopted by individuals who are expressing it also with oversize jackets in various styles.


COLOR PALETTE

BRAD SHOULDERS

Jackets with padded shoulders are mostly adopted in black or white, although plaid patterns are trending as well. Those come mostly in brown and grey tones. It is expacted that beige iwill be more dominant, as many labels presented this color in their collections for SS19.


REFERENCES

BRAD SHOULDERS

ARTICLES Sinclair, R. (2017) Design Development S/S 19: Jackets & Outerwear. WGSN. Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/74149/ page/3. 13 October 2018.

Mindiak, O (2017) The Scandalous History of Shoulder Pads. Fashion Flashbacks. Retrieved from https://fashionsflashback.com/2017/05/17/ the-scandalous-history-of-shoulder-pads. 13 October 2018. Pike, N. (2018) The Fashion Pointers To Save From The SS19 Shows. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/fashion-week-takeaway. 13 October 2018. WGSN Team (2018) Key Items Pre-Summer 19: Jackets. WGSN. Retrieved from https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/79883/page/10. 13 October 2018.


REFERENCES

BRAD SHOULDERS

IMAGES INTRO

https://en.vogue.fr/fashion/street-looks/diaporama/fwss18new-york-fashion-week-street-style-en/45699#street-style-ala-fashion-week-printemps-ete-2018-de-new-york_image165 https://www.pinterest.de/pin/473229873335996010/

Fashion-Paris.html https://whatmeghanwore.net/2018/04/18/megan-flies-the-flag-forcommonwealth-fashion-brands-at-youth-forum/ https://www.celebzz.com/julia-roberts-at-homecoming-premiere-during-the-toronto-international-film-festival-in-toronto/

BACKGROUND

SHOP IT

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/402720391668462630/?lp=true https://stitchesbitches.wordpress.com/2015/03/31/19712015-the-return-of-yves-saint-laurent-scandal-collection-it-willbe-project-in-paris-again/ https://www.rbth.com/arts/history/2017/06/20/lady-deathand-the-invisible-horror-the-female-face-of-war_786422 http://thedreamstress.com/2011/12/terminology-what-is-a-picture-hat/christian-diors-new-look-1947/ https://www.pinterest.fr/pin/385691155563314374/?lp=true

RUNWAY

https://us.asos.com/asos-design/asos-design-tailored-longline-cocktail-blazer/prd/9779931?CTARef=Bag%20Item%20Image https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/shop/uo-jacques-plaid-double-breasted-blazer?category=jackets-coats-for-women&color=086 https://shop.mango.com/us/women/coats-coats/unstructured-woolblend-coat_31083766.html?c=99 http://www.topshop.com/en/tsuk/product/clothing-427/jackets-coats-2390889/double-breasted-blazer-by-boutique-7638688 https://www2.hm.com/en_us/productpage.0675319001.html

INDIVIDUALS

https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50631 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50611 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50531 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50276 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50166 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50496

https://www.whowhatwear.com/how-to-make-padded-jackets-lookgood/slide3 https://www.whowhatwear.com/vetements-shoulderpad-trend/slide4 http://chic.uol.com.br/como-usar/noticia/camisa-branca-com-detalhes-em-preto-e-hit-da-estacao-saiba-como-usar-e-onde-encontrar-apeca https://www.pinterest.de/pin/ASMMaRJjNy0dXBHaXDS2ghqktuKyUuFPKpkulUFftj5IyZxPSHcZiCc/ https://www.pinterest.de/pin/531143349795743417/

CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

ets-coats-2390889/double-breasted-blazer-by-boutique-7638688

https://www.vibzn.com/beyonces-black-panther-inspiredgrammy-2018-look/ https://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-3988048/Shelives-Applause-Lady-Gaga-sizzles-completely-sheer-floor-grazing-gown-shares-song-backstage-VS-Angels-Victoria-s-Secret-

COLOR PALETTE

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/547961479654459532/ http://www.topshop.com/en/tsuk/product/clothing-427/jackhttps://www.pinterest.de/pin/320177854750812580/

REFERENCES

https://www.pinterest.de/pin/547961479654459532/



06. ANIMAL PATTERN

FASH 503 Christina Greifenstein 10/22/2018


ANIMAL PATTERN

The animal patterns were introduced a few seasons ago but they were never seen as much as in the Spring/ Summer collections for 2019. Originally indicating wealth and status the animal pattern’s associations experienced ups and downs. This is particularly the case for the leopard pattern, which was part of the punk’s expression, at times it was strongly associated with feminie sexuality and then again elevated into high fashion. The fact, that a really broad number of brands showed animal patterns in their SS19 collection, indicates the matureness of this trend.


BACKGROUND

ANIMAL PATTERN

Nevertheless, it was only fully adopted after Christian Dior incorporated this motif in his New-Look collection in 1947. Further, he was the first one to use a print instead of real fur.

In the past, animal fur was indicating the status of a person, as only the very rich could afford such exclusive furs from leopard or tiger. While people were inspired to use animal motifs in the Art Deco and Art Noveau movements, it was not until the rise of synthetic fabrics in the early 20th century, that animal prints became affordable and accessible. This way they found entry to the broad market. In the 1950s American lingerie brand Vanity Fair started selling leopard printed underwear and shortly after it was trending also for swimwear. Consequently, it started to be mass-produced which, in the end, lead to Actress and singer, the associa- Ava Gardner tions with female sexuality.

Leopard fur coats, 1920s

Christian Dior, 1947 By the 1970s the leopard pattern was associated more with the tacky and the tawdry, which was then adopted by the punk movement and various musicians. Only in 1991 it was elevated to the catwalks again, as Azzedine AlaĂŻa‘s collection featured various supermodels, like Naomi Campbell, with leopard pattern.

Jackie Kennedy, 1962 In the 60s, Jackie Kennedy reintroduced real leopard fur, which lead to a massive animal hunt. In 1973, the Endangered Species Act banned the importation and sale of the real fur which the rise of prints again.

Naomi Campbell, 1991


RUNWAY

ANIMAL PATTERN

Animal pattern have been seen already in the previous seasons, nevertheless, a broad number of brands came up with leopard or cheetah pattern in their SS19 collections. Only Giambettista Valli dared a tiger print.

Tom Ford, SS19

Bluemarine, SS19

Giambettista Valli, SS19

Balenciaga, SS19

Yves Saint Laurent, SS19

Elie Saab, SS19

Rochas, SS 19


CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

ANIMAL PATTERN

Animal pattern are adopted in various forms by celebrities. While the typical leopard one prevails, one can also see cheetha, tiger and color variations.

Cate Blanchett Anna Wintour

Ruth Negga

FKA Twiggs Kylie Minogue

Taylor Swift


SHOP IT

ANIMAL PATTERN

The animal pattern is offered in various colors but mostly in faux fur by fast fashion labels.

Shein, $25

asos, $230 asos, $170

NA-KD, $130

Topshop, $125

Urban Outfitters, $130


INDIVIDUALS

ANIMAL PATTERN

The trend is already common among the public, although only the leopard pattern is highly adopted.


COLOR PALETTE

ANIMAL PATTERN

The leopard pattern in realistic colors is the most popular one. The size of the dots varies and also darker hues of the pattern are common; black and white is rare but still notable. Among other animal pattern, cheetha is still more common compared to a tiger print.


REFERENCES

ANIMAL PATTERN

ARTICLES Bateman, K. (2015) The Evolution of Leopard Print. Harper’s Bazaar. Retrieved from https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/g5971/ leopard-print-style-evolution/?slide=6. 19 October 2018. Marinelli, G. (2018) This Major Trend Is Loved by Celebs, Street Style Stars, and Royals Alike. Who What Wear. Retrieved from https://www. whowhatwear.com/tags/leopard-print. 19 October 2018. Murray, G (2018) If You Buy One New Thing This Season, Make It Animal Print. Refinery 29. Retrieved from https://www.refinery29.com/engb/animal-print-trend-2018. 19 October 2018. Shade, C. (2018) The Trashy, Expensive, Contradictory Reputation of Leopard Print. Racked. Retrieved from https://www.racked. com/2018/3/7/17053964/leopard-print-history. 19 October 2018.


REFERENCES

ANIMAL PATTERN

IMAGES INTRO

https://www.na-kd.com/en/na-kd-trend/faux-fur-leo-jacketleopard

https://www.hamburger-studio.com/?attachment_ id=85107&lang=th

BACKGROUND

https://www.vogue.com/article/marc-jacobs-versace-pradavogues-25-best-90s-shows http://www.theageofgrace.com/2018/10/08/leopard-the-newneutral-is-spot-on-chic-sexy-cool/ https://www.vogue.com/article/marc-jacobs-versace-pradavogues-25-best-90s-shows

RUNWAY

https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50611 https://www.pinterest.com/pin/365565694750893358/ https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50371 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50661 https://www.wgsn.com/catwalk_gallery/#gender=2&season=0&city=0&show=50411

CELEBRITIES & INFLUENCER

https://www.glamour.com/gallery/how-to-wear-leopard-printtrend#1 https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/celebrity-trend-leopard-print-coat

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-5129173/KylieMinogue-49-steps-shopping-spree.html http://time.com/4759409/anna-wintour-critics-fashion-frivolous/

SHOP IT

https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/shop/uo-leopard-print-faux-fur-jacket?category=jackets-coats-for-women&color=015 http://us.topshop.com/en/tsus/product/clothing-70483/jackets-coats-2390895/leopard-borg-zip-up-jacket-7941434 https://us.shein.com/Shawl-Collar-Gathered-Sleeve-Leopard-Blazerp-572458-cat-1739.html https://shop.mango.com/us/women/coats-coats/leopard-faux-furcoat_33077012.html?c=30&n=1&s=prendas_she.familia;15 https://www.na-kd.com/en/na-kd-trend/faux-fur-leo-jacket-leopard

INDIVIDUALS

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/g23547087/tigerprint-fashion-trend/ https://www.adelaqueen.com/products/winter-style-fabulous-leopard-print-faux-fur-coat-collarless#

COLOR PALETTE

https://www.adelaqueen.com/products/winter-style-fabulousleopard-print-faux-fur-coat-collarless# https://www.whowhatwear.com/animal-print-trend/slide4

REFERENCES

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/leopard-print-metallics80s-party-dresses-wear-seasons-biggest/



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