A Trend Report for COS // 2015

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Trend Report Christopher Riedl for Collection of Style

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PREPOSITION

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his report has been made to help the high street fashion brand COS (Collection of Style) considering future trends and ongoing happenings for their development of their business. In behalf of the Minor Trendwatching at Fontys, this document was created.

Three major trends will be presented with a matching advice, all three with suggestion of execution.

Herewith I would like to thank COS, the client of this outcome, for their support as well as all teachers from this minor.

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INTRODUCTION 8

TREND ONE: FULL FRONTAL

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TREND TWO: RE: MEMBER-ME

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TREND THREE: OVERSIMPLIFIED

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THE ADVICE

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SOURCE LIST

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OS, Collection of Style, established in 2007 as part of the H&M group, is a high street fashion label where modern and minimalistic design meets affordability.

As first of its kind, COS offers high fashion design, intelligent cuts, the use of great material with high quality for a reasonable price. In its segment, the fashion industry, COS can be described as an Early Adopter, if the brand has to be placed on the trend curve. COS did not invent the minimalism in fashion, but was the one who made it affordable and brought it to the high street first.

Classic clothing items, such as the shirt, trouser or jacket, build the basis around each collection. COS reinvents these classics, season for season, with a modern twist.

The brand does not follow fashion trends as other similar brands might do; contemporary art and design rather inspires it. The so-called Zeitgeist is the driver for COS. Every season, the collections carry names, colours and silhouettes inspired by their favourite architecture and art of other non-fashion influencers.

COS carries lines for women, men and kids. Their target group is set somewhere betweet 18 and 40 years, speaking to the modern urbanist with a mind-to highranged income. In real life COS attracts a way wider audience though. All women and men from the age of 18 to 75 are forming the consumer range of the brand.

The collections can be purchased in one of the 117 (December 2014) stores worldwide or via their web shop.

Only in the Arabic area, COS works with a franchise model. All other stores are managed by the Headquarter in London. The capital of the United Kingdom was the spot where COS started their stores: Regent Street.

When it comes to marketing strategies, COS separates it from others as well. They never did any advertisement, weather print or TV commercials. It started as a word-tomouth brand and succeeded like that. Over the years, they got extremely popular and e.g. opened the 4th store in one city, Berlin. It is a high street luxury label, but it also became a very accessible brand to the mass.

Therefore the question was raised: How can COS further expand while staying special and exclusive? Which trends and developments can be used to differ from other brands? These questions will be answered at the end of this report with a suitable advice.

WHY

In the following pages, three trends will be presented.

With the analyse technique of ‘intuitive forecasting’ these findings have been made. Amsterdam, Berlin and Geneva have been visited to spot changes in human behaviour as well as the retail industry and luxury branch.

It also means really noticing everything happening in ones surrounding, collecting images from magazines and online and with that input making connections.

Different signs from different areas can have the same meaning, the same values. For this report, these findings therefore had to be connected. By bringing different signals together, new meaning and new value has been created. With that, future developments and trends can be predicted. The intuitive findings are supported by desk research, qualitative and quantitative, for each trend.

For guidance, the report is structured and every trend explanation follows the same guidance. After this introduction, the reader will find three trends which are constructed as follows: first a general explanation of the trend, support and examples with the help of desk research and finally a statement about its future development. After the textual explanation of the trend, readers will find a visual presentation including the most important values. The images help to support the overall value, meaning and feeling of each trend and are not meant as literal examples of signs or signals.

At the end of the report, a personal advice for COS is provided. Suggestions of how the brand can work with these findings, ideas for its future development and a possible answer to the question that was raised in the beginning of this introduction. For each trend specifically, a potential solution will be given.

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FULL FRONTAL

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he shift of today’s communication on all levels is tremendous. Not only has the behaviour of social interactions changed, but also the way brands, TV series, magazines and newspapers communicate with their consumer and target groups. The wellknown alteration towards a more visual lifestyle and the change in communication build the foundation of the trend ‘FullFrontal’. The movement has been determined in different sectors, but also on different levels. Not only has the way of communication transformed, but also its content. Consumers seem to seek for more information then ever when it comes to anything they consume.

Therefore, various industries have to adjust.

This movement has been seen on different levels, various sectors and branches. It describes a raw honesty that businesses offer to the consumer, a transparency of background information (e.g. production, delivery methods, etc.)w that has not been seen before and an attitude that is daring and efficient. On the other hand, this trend involves the need of a pre-selection. Due to overflow of information on a daily basis, consumers get tiered. Every day, more than 3.000 ad’s are placed in our environment (1). Making selections get’s harder but also very exhausting. Due to this sickening amount of choices, consumers wish for a pre-selection, something or someone who does some groundwork beforehand. If this is not the case, then the choices have to be made easier. The new way of packaging in various fields is a great step towards to this solution. Right in the faces of the consumers, there it is: BASIC MOUTHWASH (2). One word on the packaging seems to be just the right amount of information.

Lazy Fashionists can let other people make choices for them when it comes to their closet, e.g. with online personal shopping sites (3). If things are pre-arranged, consumers tend to like it more, it attracts easier and the processing of information is faster (4).

Hints from other sectors are equally important. New hit TV shows, such as ‘Girls’ (5) or from a gay men’s perspective ‘Looking (6) and ‘The Hunting Season’ (7) aren’t holding back anything when it comes to sex.

It is a movement that could be described as ‘UltraRealism’: these series feel as if we are part of it, as if we experienced it as well. They are actually so real that it is too real. But there you have it, right in your face: RimJobs, Blow-Jobs, Public sex, nudity, failure, laughter, friendship, love and hate. Again, it is about raw honesty, transparency, seeking for truth and being aware about your personality.

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FULL FRONTAL

A look into the fashion industry offered insights as well.

The so-called ‘sustainable brands’ and green fashion labels have been ignored by the wide public and have been determined as ugly, not fashionable, etc. Slowly but truly, alterations of brands and the perception of honesty have been switched. Brands as Honest By. (8) or Everlane (9) are important factors in the counter movement of fast fashion as well as indicators for the ‘FullFrontal’ movement. The worship of honesty and transparency are their business goals. They lay out every detail of production, costs, and so on to give full insights of their business models for their consumers.

To proof wrong that ‘green’ isn’t pathetic and boring, Aesops’ beauty products show how gorgeous and successful such brands can be (10).

Other influences have been found in the magazine business. A look into the newsstands of today, it is obvious that images say more than a thousand words.

Successful and new, and equally influential for this trend, two magazines have been selected as signals. Tissue Magazine (11), which mainly carries the body, sex, appearance and gender as topics. It could be seen as a fashionable porn magazine, a ‘FullFrontal’ attitude in imagery. Honest and raw.

On a different level, ‘Toilet Paper Magazine’ has been found. These printed pages only display inspiring, colourful, obscure imagery without any text throughout the magazine (12). Very daring and inviting, leaves open any opinions and gives a clear link to this trend.

If all these short and middle long term influences and signs have been considered, a suggestion of long-lasting lifetime of this trend (Mega Level) can be made. A look into the future of this trend, it is clear that its impact is insanely big and the dimension too broad to be only happening for the next two years. Therefore, this trend is determined as a long-lasting movement, which has the power to influence whole sectors, groups of people and various businesses. It will change the way we perceive information, it will more and more alter the look of products supermarkets in general as well as consumption in general: the need for honest information is there, brands and businesses only have to react to it now and in the future. From a consumer perspective and their needs, it means that the longing for 100% transparency gets satisfied and due to that, brands are trust worthier again.

The instant news feed will then be delivered in a visual, raw way, something that they were seeking for. This will lead to happy and trust worthy relationship between consumer and business.

‘There you have it, right in your face’

‘Worship of honesty and transparency’

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rands and businesses constantly have to follow-up with the latest changes and keep track of insight consumer needs. It is not new that as a brand, you can be ‘it’ today, and ‘shit’ tomorrow. Therefore, brands have to be alarmed to all signs of changes when it comes to business to consumers and customer relations.

The trend Re:MEMBER-ME is about the reinvention of this relationship but also about the new possibly to group yourself. The reason here lies in the basic needs of humanity: everyone wants to belong to something.

And every brands goal is to make it a long-lasting love affair. This involves desire, dedication, honesty and faithfulness. To continue in a metaphor: be aware, your lover is a cheater. This counts for both sides: consumers are quickly willing to switch brands nowadays as well as brands might bring changes to business where the consumer does not agree with.

To fore come exactly these problems, a shift of customer/ brand relations will determine our future. Brands will be able to re-win their customers; members of their stack will be renewed to fall in love with them again. That means that the only way, in the near and far future, to hold on to customers is to make it a special connection: Re:MEMBER-ME. The first steps of re-connecting with its target group have been made by some brands already. Personalized products are signals as well. E.g. Nutella let its customers now create their own name jar (1). Also in the food business, Milka made its consumers part of the brand.

With the “last piece”-invention, consumers were enabled to send out love in the form of chocolate to whom ever they wanted (2).

In other segments, we see similar movements of brands. Calvin Klein wanted to embrace the beauty of its underwear and created an online movement. With the hash tag #mycalvins the target group can upload photos in their Calvin Klein underwear and show it off to the world (3). A Co-Creation strategy that has been very successful on different levels: in social networks, for their brand identity as well as their consumer bonding.

The beauty company Kiehl’s (4) does customer bonding on a different level. To make them feel ‘special’, and to give them the feeling of being actively part of the brand, Kiehl’s does upcycling/recycling. Customers of the brand can trade their empty skin product bottles and crème tubes for points. This way, Kiehl’s make the consumers a brand embassodor and gives them a feeling of proactively doing something for the environment and on the other hand Kiehl’s collected more then 1.3 million containers to recycle (5). A win-win situation for both brand and customers.

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In the entertainment/culture industry, these changes have been set as well. The Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam lets its visitors create their own art with the help of Lego.

Meant to be for family and kids, this room of co-creation is still a big success to all its visitors. (6) The invention of the Internet and the 24/7 online access made it possible that every consumer has a clear overview of what is available. The market became transparent. This didn’t only influence the buying behaviour but also gave people the opportunity to form their own memberships. The possibility to grow your own tribe, to connect to like-minded people or join memberships all over the globe is also a big part of this trend. It has the same, basic human needs: the need to belong to something. Consumers are seeking for acceptance, connection, status and a community. With the help of the world wide web, they can create these values their own.

A latest example of this online-dependency is a group called ‘TofVuil’, where all people share their street findings of other peoples trash to make it their own treasure (1).

The latest empowerment of the social web is the terrifying and horrible terrorism attack that happened in Paris to the Newspaper Charlie Hebdo. No matter if you are effected or not, you wanted to be part of the ‘Je Suis Charlie’ (8) movement, to show your love and support. Craving for justice, but also the need to belong to the ‘group’ of good people.

For others who don’t really know where their desires tend to go, but have the need to be part of something, Kickstarter is the answer (9). Here people can support an idea and get rewarded for it. You give money away to make someone realize it’s dream. This already makes you part of the brand and literally shows the needs consumer have now and in the future: being a member.

At the moment, this trend is still pretty much on a product level. But in the near and far future, this will evolve into something bigger, something that has more meaning.

It will let the consumer enjoy the ‘ride’ with the brand.

This means that the target group won’t care so much about the product anymore. The product can be seen as the destiny. But what they will more care about is how they get to it. Enjoying the time getting there, taking the road less travelled. It will all come down to the needs of community, connection, acceptance and belonging. If a brand or a business won’t be able to keep up with these needs, it will be pretty hard to set themselves apart from competitors. Brands have to start now with trusting their consumers and lay their destiny into the hands of the consumer. Consideration of honesty is important as well.

Brands need to have an opinion, stand for something.

Then you can go through that change and Re:Member your audience to fill them with joy! (10,11,12,13)

‘Re-connecting with its target group’

‘Everyone wants to belong to something’

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OVERSIMPLIFIED

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very big movement is always followed by a counter reaction. Mostly, from people who just disagree with the mass, groups who won’t follow what everyone is doing.

But sometimes a counter movement can be much simpler, a personal expression or a form of self-actualization. In the case of the trend ‘Oversimplified’, it is a mixture of both opponents. An overload of information has been ruling our daily life since the world wide web determents our everyday routine.

Mass media influences opinions, social media turned people into online slaves and the always up-to-date lifestyle forms a whole generation.

The overwhelming options of clothing, the insanity of product diversification and the ridiculous amount of different restaurants in only one city made it nearly impossible to chose for most consumers.

The upcoming of blogs, around six years ago, changed the journalism tremendously. Today, this already shifted.

Qualitative research and articles are worth more to most readers then so-called ‘Bloggers’ and their online selfpossession. These are some of the reasons, why the trend ‘Oversimplified’ occurred and is about to grow big.

Due to consumer needs, such as a clear-mind-set, easy, patience and simplicity, it will influence different brands and sectors. People seek for a much simpler, toned-down life again. Back to basic but in an authentic and aesthetic way.

Not only is riding a bike healthy, it is also much cheaper and easier to handle. Perfect for the modernist, who lives in the city nowadays. Danish bike brand forced people to ride a bike again, to ‘save the city’. (1). Humanity does get more and more involved in the problematic of our natural resources being used wrong and too quick.

People are well aware that changes have to be made to live on a sustainable and long lasting planet (2). This type of consumer is also the one who has the need of freedom. There is a large group of people who doesn’t want to be told to sit in an office form 9-5. (3) On the other hand, some people don’t even want to live in ‘normal’ apartments anymore. Field research has shown, that living a ‘special’ lifestyle, such as living in camping caravans, has future growth potential. (4).

As consumers seek for a more authentic experience, also the segment of traveling has changed. New options like Couchsurfing and also Airbnb (5) show, that a simpler lifestyle, ease and a little privacy has its big success.

Like that, you can have ‘local’ experience without any extra costs. Less travellers fancy expensive hotels and exclusive rooms. It is about the city you stay in, not only how you stay there.

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Obviously the amount of time spend online is rising.

Work, study, leisure – it all involves the web. There is quite an amount of consumers and business that would want to change that. For instance a coffee bar in Vancouver. Julien F. Thomas has designed a bar that disconnects you from all wireless networks once you step insight (6). A direct counter movement to the intense online lifestyle: the joy of missing out (7).

With a switch over to the sector of food and dining, this trend can be found here on various levels as well. A restaurant in Brighton, SILO, has created a concept of sustainable behaviour for their kitchen by utilizing a preindustrial food system, which generates zero waste (8).

Perfect fore those who seek sustainability and honesty in their lives, who want to be part of a better world and actively choose for it.

Another interesting restaurant concept popped up in Amsterdam: EEN MAAL (9). For once you are asked to just enjoy time with yourself, no social pressure, no nothing. Go, and have some quality time with yourself.

Another signal out of this segment is a new supermarket concept, Original Unverpackt, from Berlin. Consumer can purchase all biological and/or local food without any prepackaging (10).

When it comes to fashion, minimalism and simplicity already is on the forerun. But new ideas and concepts bring it to another level. Not so much about the design, more about the sustainable idea behind consumption, Utrecht has now its first own Fashion Library: A place wear you simply go in, lean clothes to wear them and return them happily ever after. (11) But also the way we consume imagery has shifted onto a more simplified way. We desire toned down imigary and colors, something at its ease. Websites like Love Asthethics (12) or magazines like Cereal Magazines (13) are offering the current Zeitgeist when it comes to visual attraction. Both tell exactly what the consumer need: less is more – by far.

Reviewing the observation and research that has been done, it is obvious that consumer needs like shift and a desire for a simplification of life is required. Less products and less consumption due to all choices out there. On the short run, we see changes in how consumers’ purchase and what they purchase (e.g. organic food), the middle long term is determined by the joy of missing out. That consumers want to shut down the Internet and other devices and enjoy being out casted for a day. On the long run, this trend will have great effect on different levels. A huge factor is the climate change and the consciousness of consumer concerning the environment. If everyone steps back, just a little bit, Oversimplification can help on a personal and an environmental level.

‘People seek for a much simpler, toned-down life again’

‘Back to basic but in an authentic and aesthetic way.’

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f course it is difficult to bring abstract influences, such as the findings in this report, to live. But taking these trends as inspiration and idea, can lead COS to a new level. It can bring new customers, inventions and an improvement of the business. The goal of COS is obvious: expand; make the brand more popular while staying true to the DNA and core values.

The core question for this report was: ‘How can COS continue to grow without loosing their exclusive identity?’.

Especially trend number one and two can bring a great solution to it. Per trend, a detailed explanation will now follow.

FULL FRONTAL This trend is something where COS misses out completely at the moment. They are not transparent at all to their consumers and surely not aware how much customers actually require ‘real’ information behind a brand. If COS would e.g. imply a system of tracking down garments, so the consumer could see where it came from and how it is produced, they would gain a whole new consumer group. A tribe of fashiononistas that are aware of sustainability. It doesn’t mean that COS would need to change everything. It is only meant to give more honesty to the brand. The present target group would still be a customer, with the benefit of more information about their own garments.

If it should be in a broader sense, COS could reinforce their communication by a more honest and transparent one. So by expanding the business, COS would gain trust which then makes it exclusive again in comparison to other brands. Exclusivity here then means transparency.

RE: MEMBER-ME The only way COS interacts with its consumer at the moment is a newsletter and Social Media platforms such as Facebook, Instagram or Pinterest. These channels aren’t really used as an interaction, more of an information platform or news distributor. By re-arranging the relationship with their customers and building up a new way of communicating, COS could be in a more exclusive light again. Rebuilding a COS army, giving consumer the chance of co-creating a collection or anything inspired by the findings could be very useful for the brand. The consumer group that COS should focus on would be the Millennials, who are desperately seeking for co-creation.

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ADVICE

OVERSIMPLIFIED COS already embraces the minimalistic style in every collection and the whole brand attitude. But still, there are great options to use the findings of this trend for the brand. If people want to simplify their life, maybe downgrade their wardrobe, COS could focus on their “Reinvented Classics” again. They could provide a ‘Downgrade your Wardrobe’ collection, presenting 10 one-and-only must haves, which should be in every closet. Obviously, the majority of the target group will continue shopping for the normal collection. But in addition, COS could find a new, simpler target group who were desperately looking for guidance in fashion. Then COS could provide this group their ‘basic items’ and win over a new consumer group.

If this should help the exclusivity of COS, they could create a special, limited 10-pieces Collection, which would proof their luxury values again.

These are given suggestions, not required to execute.

Other options can be considered and fitted to the brand.

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SOURCE

LIST

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RE: MEMBER-ME

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January 2015 Christopher Riedl