SPRING / SUMMER 2010
GARDEN TOUR The lush landscapes of Hudson Valley sanctuaries
RAIL TRAILS A guide to the region’s former railroad pathways
ADVENTURE SPORTS Derring-do for outdoor enthusiasts
COMMUNITY
BUS I NES S
EDUCATION
NEW PALTZ
REGIONAL
CHAMBER OF
COMMERCE
TOURISM
NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE www.newpaltzchamber.org
Whether you are in Historic Kingston, N.Y. or Historic Milford, PA., we’ll make you feel right at home.
now you’ve really arrived! Kingston, N.Y.
Matamoras, Pa.
• Wireless and Wired Internet
• Indoor Pool
• Stylish Lounge
• Business Center
• Comfy rooms
• Complimentary Breakfast
845-382-2600
570-491-5280
1307 Ulster Avenue Kingston, NY 12401 www.kingston.hamptoninn.com e-mail the GM: Ramona.Vazquez@hilton.com Sales: Sandra.Sanicki@hilton.com
122 Westfall Town Drive Matamoras, PA 18336 www.matamoras.hamptoninn.com e-mail the GM: Monique.Olivier@hilton.com
Spectacular! With over 350 miles of hiking and biking trails within its quarter million acres of forever-wild lands, Ulster County is alive with vibrant communities, marinas, art, antiques, music, beautifully prepared fresh food, luxury spas, and cozy lodgings. So, bring the family for the day or a weekend, and enjoy just how alive our part of the world can be.
Visit our new web site, sign up for our online newsletter and join the fun.
ulstercountyalive.com Call us at 800-342-5826
速 I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permission.
Locust Grove The Samuel Morse Historic Site
A Grand Country Estate in the Heart of the Hudson Valley! Tour the mansion and art collection, hike on 180 acres of landscaped gardens, or enjoy concerts and special events year-round. O P E N DA I LY May-November 10AM – 5PM and Weekends in April & December
An Unforgettable Place for your Unforgettable Day! Elegant Italianate Villa Romantic Gardens Hudson River Vistas Landmark Estate conveniently located in the heart of the Hudson Valley Receptions for up to 150 people in our Arts & Crafts style Museum Pavilion
2683 South Road (Route 9), Poughkeepsie, NY 845-454-4500 www.lgny.org 2
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Your destination for selection, service and price
Conveniently located in the Stop & Shop Plaza in New Paltz, NY All credit cards accepted. Monday- Saturday 10am to 9:30pm, Sundays Noon to 7pm
20 New Paltz Plaza, New Paltz, NY 12561 (845) 255-7475 SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 3
Michael Gold / The Corporate Image
Letter from
Joyce Minard
T
here is no better place to be during the seasons of spring and summer than New York’s Hudson Valley. Springtime brings melted winter snow and refreshing showers to engorge our lakes, streams and rivers, making our magnificent waterfalls true wonders of nature. Spring’s new green leaves and blossoms, both bright and pale, are the visual definition of the season, as warmer temperatures and lengthening days slowly and beautifully reawaken the Valley. Those long days and warm temperatures culminate in the Hudson Valley summer, the ideal season to take in the cool Hudson River breeze, swim in our glacial lakes or lounge on our sand beaches, and sample the early bounty of our farms and orchards. Whether you’re seeking rest and relaxation or an outdoor adventure, the historical perspective or agricultural delights, Sojourn will give you what you need to get started discovering the Hudson Valley. In this issue, we’ll give you an inside look at some of the Hudson Valley’s famous historic homes and mansions, a walk along the region’s rail trails—including the celebrated Walkway over the Hudson—a guide to gorgeous public gardens, information about area retreat centers and much more!
You’ll also learn more about the 7th Annual New Paltz Regional Garden Tour and get a sneak peak at the 20th Annual Taste of New Paltz, a Hudson Valley festival of food and fun. Both events are projects of the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce. The Chamber is proud to serve as a resource for visitors to our region, providing literature, tips and advice year-round in our Visitor Center and through our popular website, www.newpaltzchamber. org. We hope you stop by to see us at 257 Main St., New Paltz or drop us a line through the “contact us” section of our website. Best,
Joyce M. Minard
Front Cover A view of the bog garden at Innisfree Gardens in Millbrook. Courtesy Innisfree Gardens.
Sojourn is published semi-annually by the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce. Information in this publication was carefully compiled to ensure maximum accuracy. However, the New Paltz Regional Chamber cannot guarantee the correctness of all information provided herein. Readers noting inaccurate information should contact the Chamber with corrections and updates. © 2010 New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce is strictly prohibited. The New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce is located at 257 Main Street, New Paltz, NY, 12561. 845-255-0243. Fax: 845-255-5189.
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Photo by John Rozell, Courtesy New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
SPRING / SUMMER 2010
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In the Swim Whereever you are, you’re never too far from a place to cool your heels (and everything else) in the Hudson Valley.
Trails: Covering Our Tracks 10 RTheailregion is crisscrossed with railroad lines that have been transformed into linear parks.
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Festivals: Spring/Summer
From reenactments of pagan rituals to musical extravaganzas, the warmer months promise a bevy of arts and culture in the Hudson Valley.
Hidden Treasures 14 GA ardens: tour of public and private gardens bursting
with color in Ulster and Dutchess Counties.
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Eats: Ice Cream Stands
What’s better than a cold cone on a hot day? A guide to some of the region’s cool spots.
Hudson Valley Estates 20 HTheistory: area was home to some of the most fabulously wealthy families of the Gilded Age, and many of their homes are open to the public.
tay: Retreat & Renewal 24 SSometimes a getaway isn’t enough. Sometimes you need to take yourself away from it all and recharge your batteries on retreat.
utdoors: Extreme Sports 28 O The region has all the trappings for an adrenaline-fueled vacation.
Listings 32 EThevent lowdown on Hudson Valley doings. nformation 39 IResources you might need during your visit. egional Map 40 RWho says you can’t get there from here? SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 5
Connect. Communicate. Collaborate.
Photo courtesy Innisfree Garden
20th Annual Taste of New Paltz Sunday, September 12, 2010, 11:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. Ulster County Fairgrounds, 249 Libertyville Rd., New Paltz Taste of New Paltz, one of the Hudson Valley’s finest outdoor food festivals, celebrates its 20th year spotlighting the region’s renowned restaurants, wineries and farm markets. The Taste offers culinary delights to satisfy every palate; the adventurous gourmet, the elite epicurean and the family-oriented traditional diner will all find what they seek among the Taste’s tents. While food and wine are the primary focus of the event, the Taste also offers a variety of fun activities for the whole family, including Kids’ Expo ( face painting, rides, entertainment and giveaways), Artistic Taste (paintings, drawings and photography by local artists), Craft Expo (handcrafted jewelry, ceramics and other handmade items), Business Expo (area businesses and services, plus “The Great Giveaway”), the Country Store (packaged edibles for sampling and purchase), and Wellness and Recreation Expo (health, fitness and recreation information and at demonstrations). Live music all day rounds out the event. Come and enjoy the Taste and be a part of a 20-year Hudson Valley tradition! All gate proceeds benefit the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce, its members and community programs.
7th Annual New Paltz Regional Garden Tour Sunday, July 11, 2010, 11:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Gardens in and around New Paltz Indulge your senses and celebrate the ingenuity and artistry of some of our region’s most talented green thumbs with the Regional Chamber of Commerce Foundation at New Paltz 7th Annual New Paltz Regional Garden Tour. This year’s Tour will feature breathtaking private gardens in and around New Paltz—the garden locations remain secret until the day of the tour!—and will culminate in a special post-tour reception, hosted by Historic Huguenot Street. Net proceeds of the New Paltz Regional Garden Tour benefit the New Paltz Community Improvement Team and the Regional Chamber of Commerce Foundation at New Paltz educational initiatives. For more information about these or other Chamber events, including visitor center hours of operation, call 845-255-0243 or e-mail info@newpaltzchamber.org. 6
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BOARD OFFICERS Chair Ernie VanDeMark Central Hudson Gas & Electric Corp. 1st Vice Chair Chris Drouin Beyond Wealth Management 2nd Vice Chair Craig Shankles PDQ Printing and Graphics Treasurer Mindi Haynes Vanacore, DeBenedictus, DiGovanni & Weddell, LLP, CPAs Financial Advisor Jerry Luke Fox Hill B&B Legal Counsel Paul O’Neill Attorney at Law
A SHORT DRIVE. A MILLION MILES AWAY.
BOARD OF DIRECTORS Frank Curcio Bank of America Helen Gutfreund, LMT Bodymind Massage Therapy Constance Harkin Ulster Savings Richard Heyl de Ortiz Historic Huguenot Street Kay Hoiby Free Fall Express, dba Blue Sky Ranch Dr. David Ness Performance Sports & Wellness Kathleen Packard Kathode Ray Media, Inc. Diane Reeder Queens Galley Shelley Turk Rocking Horse Ranch Sue Van De Bogart, PT St. Luke’s Cornwall Hospital Helise Winters SUNY New Paltz (CREEO) Emeritus Members Robert Leduc Mohonk Mountain House Rick Lewis Riverside Bank Off. Scott Shaffrick New Paltz Police Department Regional Chamber of Commerce Foundation at New Paltz Board of Directors Chair Kathy Ferrusi Hudson Valley Federal Credit Union Secretary Joyce Minard New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce Treasurer Sue VanVoorhis M&T Bank Board Member Sally Cross SUNY New Paltz Foundation Board Member Teresa Thompson Main Street Bistro
Chamber Staff President Joyce Minard Director of Marketing and Communications Christine Crawfis Membership Director Cathy Hyland Communications and Programs Administrator Janet Nurre Assistant Director of Finance & Membership Lucy Paradies
Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa
WEDDINGS, CONFERENCES ECO SPA, CATERING & MORE 845 . 795 . 1310 BUTTERMILKFALLSINN.COM
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 7
Photo by John Rozell, Courtesy New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
SWIM
In the Swim of Things Getting Wet This Season By Anne Pyburn Craig
I
s there anything better than cool water on a hot day? Not even the most potent AC can sink deep into your bones and reset your thermostat to “bearable” like a dive into deep, welcoming wetness. It rushes past your body, stroking you, transforming life from a sweaty mess to an otter-sleek, nearly weightless state of grace, making it imaginable to move around once again. A swim can be whatever you need it to be—a half hour break after breakfast or after a full day’s wandering, or a day in itself, complete with picnic lunch, sand toys, and endless rounds of Marco Polo. A swim can be a thorough workout or a luxurious sedentary soak. And in this area, there’s probably a place to swim near whatever else you’ve a mind to do. For your pleasure, then, here are some good places to dunk. For those who like it chlorinated, there’s the Ulster County Pool on Libertyville Road, an
Olympic-sized expanse with a kiddie pool and playground for the younger set. New Paltz, Kerhonkson, Rosendale, and Kingston also maintain community pools—so wherever you are, you’re not far from a place to cool down at a reasonable price, complete with lifeguard. If, on the other hand, you like your water natural, there are several great choices. Minnewaska State Park offers swimming in a portion of the ever-lovely Lake Minnewaska, in crystalline mountain water. The public beach area is small, but the water’s great—as is the water in Lake Awosting, a three-mile hike from the parking lot. If you plan to frequent the area this summer, and are a confident swimmer, the Minnewaska Distance Swimmers Association offers additional opportunities for members who pass a basic test and abide by their rules. Should your wanderings take you to the east shore of the Hudson, lake swimming can also be
Wherever you are, you’re not far from a place to cool down.
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Photo courtesy Riverpool Opposite: Kids playing on the beach at Lake Taghkanic State Park; Above: River Pool in Beacon.
found at Lake Taghkanik State Park in Columbia County, along with a host of other activities. And to the north, North South Lake State Park is located in Haines Falls—another drive that will take you along scenic highways, through picturesque little towns, and offer a range of temptations in the form of funky antique shops and enticing eateries. Ulster County also maintains Belleayre Beach at Pine Hill Lake, a manmade spot in a lovely location at the northwestern corner of the county. During the winter, Belleayre is big on skiing—summer visitors après or pre-swim must content themselves with a world class music festival and a dozen or so other fun things. The Hudson River, once un-swimmable, has become plenty clean enough to be enjoyed with the whole body. Ulster Landing in the Town of Saugerties is a cozy, family-friendly beach—within walking distance of great eats and unique antiques. At Kingston Point Beach, you can watch the kayakers, jet skiers, and pleasure boats pass by at a safe distance, while building your sand castle and enhancing it with bits of historic Kingston brick smoothed by generations of big water flowing by. Both locations feature lifeguards and playgrounds. For a completely different river experience, visit the Riverpool in Beacon. Its rainbow of colors is only one of the intriguing and one-ofa-kind design features of this wading pool and eco-friendly marvel. If you’re in the mood for a little more drama with your moisture, fear not. At opposite ends of our general geographic region, we’ve got water parks—same cooling effect, but guaranteed to tire the rowdiest preteen. SplashDown Beach in
Fishkill bills itself as “America’s Biggest Little Waterpark” and has a variety of slides and pools, and a half-pipe. To the north, in East Durham, is the Zoom Flume. Water park lovers take note: both places offer special deals on season passes if purchased before the season begins. Rocking Horse Ranch in Highland has also just opened an indoor water park, featuring a 230-foot water slide and dozens of other kid-friendly attractions. Whether you prefer to plan your day around a swimming spot, or pick a place to cool off that fits in with the rest of your itinerary, we’ve got your kind of water here, so dive on in.
RESOURCES in this article Belleayre Beach www.belleayre.com Kingston Point Beach www.ci.kingston.ny.us Lake Taghkanik State Park www.nysparks.state.ny.us Minnewaska State Park www.lakeminnewaska.org Riverpool www.riverpool.org Rocking Horse Ranch www.rockinghorseranch.com SplashDown Beach www.splashdownbeach.com Ulster Landing Beach www.co.ulster.ny.us Zoom Flume www.zoomflume.com For more info on where to splash around, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 9
covering our tracks Rails Trails as Paths to Nature By Siobhan K. McBride
View of the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail in Gardiner, where the trail crosses Routes 44/55.
T
he Hudson River Valley Greenway Act of 1991 began a collective process amongst 264 communities within the 13 counties that border the Hudson River. Through this state-sponsored initiative a strategy developed that aimed to preserve scenic, natural, historic, cultural, and recreational resources. In collaboration with railroad companies, community members, and local government officials, the idea of a “linear park” has developed into a reality. Hudson River Valley Greenway Executive Director Mark Castiglione says that along with the 250 miles of already developed trails along both banks of the Hudson River, the Greenway plans to connect the railways once again, creating a continuous alternative route from New York City to Albany. With the recent addition of the Walkway Over the Hudson State Historic Park, there’s a new future for this collection of trails. A fire on the Poughkeepsie Railroad Bridge closed the line in 1974, along with a good portion of the other railroads in the area, and left the railbeds to molder. Eventually, it was seen as an opportunity. What was once the world’s longest bridge is now the world’s longest pedestrian walkway. Opened in 2009, on the 400th anniversary of Henry Hudson’s maiden voyage, the walkway has generated a large amount of attention from both locals and tourists.
orange heritage trail Fifty miles north of New York City, the trail loops, totaling 22-miles in length from Goshen to Washingtonville. Located on the old Erie Railroad Main Line which went across southern New York, this paved trail takes you through the county’s signature rolling hills, past pastures, woodlands, and bird sanctuaries. Good for walking, rollerblading, and biking. www.orangepathways.org Hudson Valley Rail Trail This undeveloped trail is a rustic, scenic route marked by its dirt paths which stretch five miles. Starting from the newly built Walkway Over the Hudson, it snakes halfway toward the town of New Paltz, meandering through the small hamlet of Highland, where you can choose to grab a bite to eat, a mid-afternoon drink, or browse antique galleries. The trail was part of the Old New York, New Haven, and Hartford Line and passes through the Illinois Mountain and Black Creek Wetlands Complex and jutting canyons of the ridges separating Highland from New Paltz. Tony Williams Park is toward the New Paltz end of the trail with ball parks, tennis courts, basketball courts, pavilions, and restrooms. Perfect for pedestrians, biking, or horseback riding. www.hudsonvalleyrailtrail.net
Groups are working to connect rail trails from Albany to NYC.
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Photo courtesy Hudson River Valley Greenway
rail trails
Walden Rail Trail This trail bed once shipped farmers’ goods to markets in New York City but was abandoned by Conrail in the late 1970s. Recently paved to allow for handicap access, it’s a short 3.5-mile trail. Perfect for learning to ride a bike, jogging, or a quiet stroll. Spanning its way from the Wooster Grove Park Recreation Building in Walden to Wallkill it runs along Route 52. www.traillink.com Wallkill Valley Rail Trail Spanning from the Rosendale Railroad Bridge to New Paltz and continuing on to the Gardiner/ Shawangunk town line, the trail is a completely unpaved path and relatively flat, running a little more than 12 miles. The Mohonk Preserve and Minnewaska State Park are in close proximity for further hiking. Good for biking, walking, and horseback riding. The WVRT website has printable cheat sheets on local tree identification and tracking animal prints. www.gorailtrail.org Harlem Valley Rail Trail Once the northern route of the New York and Harlem Railroad approximately a century and a half ago, there are now four 12-mile public stretches of paved rail bed that connect through small patches of country roads in eastern Dutchess and Columbia Counties. When eventually completed, the trail will stretch 46 miles from Wassaic in Dutchess County to Chatham in Columbia County. Good for biking and walking. www.hvrt.org
NEW PALTZ’S TRANSPORTATION HUB NEW PALTZ BUS STATION Main & Prospect Streets Serving New Paltz for over 45 years
Consumer friendly taxi service provided by:
Glenn Stagecoach Lines, Ltd. New Paltz Taxi, Inc. 255-1550 Glenn Properties, Inc. 255-6520 Ticket agent for: Adirondack Trailways Pine Hill Trailways
Stewart Glenn, President Eileen Gulbrandsen Glenn,Vice-President Michael King, Manager
Hyde Park Rail Trail Connecting to the Vanderbilt Mansion, Roosevelt Home, and Vallkill National Historic Sites, the trail is 8.5 miles. It also connects with the Hyde Park Preserve which has expansive hiking trails. Good for walking. 845-229-8086 Dutchess County Rail Trail Still in development, the Dutchess Rail Trail Park begins at Morgan Lake in the City of Poughkeepsie and follows the former Maybrook railroad to the Old Hopewell Depot, just outside Hopewell Junction in East Fishkill. There are plans for a section of paved path as well as unpaved, and a section designed for equestrian use. It spans 12 miles. www.dutchesscountytrails.com Walkway Over the Hudson Opened in 2009, the world’s longest pedestrian bridge, the walkway spans the Hudson River from Highland to Poughkeepsie. It’s 6,767 feet across and rests 212 feet above the Hudson River. Perfect for walking, biking, and rollerblading. Handicap accessible, there are two parking areas on either end of the bridge on Haviland Road in Highland and Parker Avenue in Poughkeepsie. There are currently no benches but additions are planned for the near future. www.walkway.org SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 11
FESTIVALS
Photo by William Marsh
SPRING/SUMMER
FESTIVALS By SIOBHAN K. MCBRIDE
20th Annual Beltane Festival May 1. In celebration of May Day, the Center for Symbolic Studies will throw its 20th annual Beltane Festival, featuring local performers, craftspeople, and May Pole dancers along with dancing, music, games, and theater all day with Carl Welden as MC. This year will be African themed, with guests drummers Fode Sissoko and Toby Stover. Dress colorfully and bring an instrument. The event is nonalcoholic and is a fundraiser for CSS. 1pm-10pm. Tickets are $10 for adults and $5 for seniors with an additional fee for onsite parking. Camping is available for those who are commuting or want to stay for a next day clean-up. Rosendale. 845-658-8540; www.symbolicstudies.org.
Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival June-September. Each summer, the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival performs the works of the Bard on the banks of the Hudson River at the stunning grounds of the Boscobel estate. They have been providing an interactive Shakespeare experience and instilling a freshness in these masterpieces since they formed in 1987. This year’s repertory includes “Troilus and Cressida,” “The Taming of the Shrew,” and “The Bomb-itty of Errors,” a hip-hop version of “The Comedy of Errors.” Ticket prices for all performances are $29-$46. Box Office opens May 9. Boscobel, Cold Spring. 845-265-7858; www. hvshakespeare.org.
Gardiner Cupcake Festival May 8. Looking for something sweet to celebrate Mother’s Day? Then visit Gardiner’s 2nd annual Cupcake Festival Mother’s Day weekend and enjoy the sweet nostalgia of the simple treat. In the country street festival vein, there will be live music, donkey rides, cupcake decorating, local beer and whiskey tasting, and shopping, as well as thousands of delicious of cupcakes. The cupcakes are the artistic work of vendors from around the region. This year’s cupcake bake-off categories will be: prettiest, most creative, most delicious, and people’s favorite. Life is sweet from 12pm-5pm on Main Street, Gardiner. 845-256-1122.
Mountain Jam June 4-6. Rolling Stone picked Mountain Jam as one of its top eight favorite festivals of summer last year. In sunshine or pouring rain the festival goes on, bringing some of the greatest musicians together to perform in one of nature’s amphitheaters—Hunter Mountain. This year’s line-up includes Gov’t Mule, The Avett Brothers, Les Claypool, Matisyahu, and Michael Franti and Spearhead. Whether you decide to take advantage of the onsite camping for the weekend or take a shuttle to a nearby hotel, Mountain Jam is a don’t miss. There will be craft and food vendors onsite, and packaged beer is avail-
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Opposite: Christopher V. Edwards and Jason O’Connell perform “The Complete Works of William Shakespeare (Abridged)” at the Hudson Valley Shakespeare Festival.
able for anyone camping. As long as you’re 21 or older, you’re welcome to bring your own alcohol into the campsite. www.mountainjam.com.
Clearwater Festival June 19, 20. Since 1966 the Clearwater Festival has attracted activists, musicians, and locals to one of the largest environmental celebrations in the country. Founded by musician Pete Seeger to help protect the waters of the Hudson, the Clearwater Festival is the perfect place to realize the importance and support that we can give to our communities. This year there will be a green living expo, multiple music stages, children’s activities, the working waterfront—where you can sail on the sloop Clearwater— an activist area, and, of course, food. Music will include Pete Seeger, Buckwheat Zydeco, the Felice Brothers, and much more. Tickets are $40/$60, children under 12 are free. Open 10am-dusk. Croton Point Park. 845-265-8080; www.clearwater.org. Belleayre Music Festival July 3-August 29. Each summer Belleayre gathers the top names in rock, country, jazz, and alternative music for an outdoor performance in the heart of the Catskills. The festival also features theatrical and Broadway-style productions in its covered tent performance area. This year performances include Patti Lupone on July 10, the Regina Carter Band on July 31, a ‘50s dance party, “The Day the Music Died,” in honor of Buddy Holly, Big Bopper, and Richie Valens will take place on August 21, and Rossini’s opera “La Cenerentola” (Cinderella) on August 28. Belleayre Ski Center, Highmount. 800-942-6904 x1344; www.belleayremusic.org. Bounty of the Hudson Wine Festival July 24, 25. Get a taste of the wineries throughout the Hudson Valley, including wines from all 11 Shawangunk Wineries. Accompanied by local food, live music, and cooking workshops, you can enjoy the best wines in the area. The festival is open noon-5pm both days, with a “wine taster’s” ticket $27/$35, and a designated driver ticket $5.40. This year’s festival will be held in the heart of Orange County’s black dirt country at Warwick Valley Winery. Warwick. 845-258-4858; www.shawangunkwinetrail.com. German Alps Festival August 14, 15. Regardless of if you have German ancestry or just like a good bratwurst, a stein of pilsner, and the sight of men in lederhosen
every now and then, the German Alps Festival will get you in touch with your inner German. With German foods, music, drinks, games, and Schuhplattler Dancers, the whole family can join in. This year will feature polka king Jimmy Sturr and His Orchestra. Hunter Mountain. www.huntermtn.com.
Wild Blueberry and Huckleberry Festival August 21. After being harvested for hundreds of years by Native Americans—and in the late 19th and early 20th century by communities of European-descended pickers atop the Shawangunk Ridge in Western Ulster County—the blueberry is now getting the recognition it deserves. At the peak of its season, this festival is host to music, crafts, and what else?—amazing food dedicated to the blueberry including the annual pie judging. The street fair is opened 9am-4pm. Ellenville. 845-647-4620. Hudson Valley Ribfest August 21, 22. In its 6th year, this cavalcade for carnivores is an appetizing experience featuring everything barbecue—ribs, chicken, briskets, burgers, and specialty items from the best vendors in the area. The event is family friendly, featuring live music, drinks, and deserts to round out a lip-smacking meal. Contestants will also compete for $10,000 in the New England Barbecue Society Grilling Contest on Saturday and the Kansas City Barbeque Society Barbeque Contest on Sunday. Ribfest will take place Saturday 11am-10pm and Sunday 10am-5pm at the Ulster County Fairgrounds in New Paltz. 845-306-4381; www. hudsonvalleyribfest.org. International Celtic Festival August 21, 22. As if straight from the Emerald Isle, this festival brings the traditions of Ireland to Hunter Mountain once again. With traditional Irish foods, drinks, and music, this year Celtic Crossroads will be performing, hailed as the most authentic show to come from Ireland in decades. You’ll be chanting Erin go bragh before you know it. Hunter Mountain; www.huntermtn.com. Rosendale Street Festival August 24, 25. Once again the region’s favorite block party is back. Be part of the excitement as Main Street, Rosendale transforms itself into a small town festival. With previous performances by kids band Dog on Fleas, self-proclaimed “apocabilly” band Pitchfork Militia, David Kraai, Uncle Funk, and the Trapps. Also serving great food and drinks. It’s more or less tradition. 845-943-6497; www.rosendalestreetfestival.com. SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 13
Vassar College / Tamar M. Thibodeau
GARDENS
Secret Gardens Dutchess and Ulster County’s Hidden Treasures By Siobhan K. McBride
A
s warm weather bats its eyes in our direction, the mind wanders to open air and moist grass between toes. During spring and summer the Hudson Valley becomes saturated, quite literally, in a spectrum of gardens dating back hundreds of years. The Hudson Valley’s local gardens carry old-world splendor and the rigorous attention to detail which winter had almost fogged us into forgetting. Many of these gardens have their roots in centuries-old soil, dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. From overflowing rose bushes to the austere beauty of a rock or sculpture garden, the Hudson Valley abounds with a variety of gardening palates. Mohonk Mountain House An air of Gilded Age opulence wafts along the gardens of the Mohonk Mountain House. Taking influence from French and Italian styles, the gardens also emphasize pristine landscaping common during the Victorian era. With a mix of annuals, tropical plants, and perennials, the gardens are populated by orchids, begonias, herbs, peonies, and a butterfly garden. The flowers overflow with a rustic variety of flowers encased by crisp lines and partitions. Mohonk has received national recognition for their gardens and grounds—in 1997 receiving the Grand Award for Grounds Maintenance from the Professional Grounds Management Association. This year, Mohonk will have a formal Victorian show garden and also new this year, their will be a spring, summer, and fall showcase. The theme will be blue flowers consisting of every blue flower imaginable all the way down to 14
forget-me-nots. There will be a Garden Pass available for guests who wish to spend the day at Mohonk touring the gardens. Garden tours are available and the Mohonk Garden Shop and florist are open daily. New Paltz. 845-255-1000; www.mohonk.com.
The Beatrix Farrand Garden Association The Beatrix Farrand Gardens lie adjacent to the Franklin D. Roosevelt estate, Eleanor Roosevelt estate, and the Vanderbilt Mansion in Hyde Park. Farrand studied at Harvard’s Arnold Arboretum where she perfected her eye for artistic accuracy and design. She conceived gardens for some of the most influential individuals and institutions of her time. Although most of her work has been lost over time, the Rockefeller’s Eyrie Garden in Maine, large portions of the Princeton and Yale campuses, and Dumbarton Oaks in Washington, DC, all stand as exceptional reminders of her talent. The Beatrix Farrand gardens are casual in their presence but still lure the observer into their elegantly rich history. Out of manicured borders and climbing vines masking the stone walls in a blush of green pop pinks, creams, and purples with clipped Hemlock Hedges around the property. Peonies and foxgloves in full display dapple the beds. At the end of April tulips sprout. At the end of summer a delicious arrangement of lilies bloom and galtonia, commonly known as summer hyacinth, amass white bells five to six feet in the air making a crisp border along the garden. Even into September and October the gar-
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Vassar College’s Shakespeare garden.
den pops with color from the Japanese Anemones. Both formal and naturalistic the gardens are an outward display of Farrand’s attention to detail and eye for subtle beauty. The gardens are open daily from dawn until dusk. Special tours may be arranged. Hyde Park. 845-229-9115; www.beatrixfarrandgarden.org.
Innisfree Gardens Formerly the private home of Walter and Marion Beck, this 150-acre public garden lies along the rolling shores of Tyrrel Lake in Millbrook. With mainly native plants, the rocks create beautiful water features throughout the property, with water cascading down from the surrounding forest. The garden embraces the asymmetry of Eastern garden design, while alcoves and multiple layers leave something to the imagination. It’s built for quiet; a slow-paced garden ideal for letting the day seep slowly over the sky. In June, peonies perch atop rock steps. While in July, lotus can be seen resting in groups by the lake shore. A complex underground pipe system directs the lake’s water to various areas of the garden for irrigation, streams, waterfalls, and water sculptures. The gardens are open Wednesday-Sunday, plus holidays. Millbrook. 845-677-8000; www.innisfreegarden.org. Formal Gardens at the Vanderbilt Mansion Epic grandeur is plastered along the walks of the Vanderbilt Formal Gardens in Hyde Park. Built by a grandson of Comodore Cornelius Vanderbilt, the garden highlights the extravagant lifestyle of the rich during the early 20th century. Vanderbilt was an avid gardener, creating decadent gardens filled with roses, annuals, and perennials. After his death in 1938, however, the gardens fell into disrepair. After a complete restoration the gardens now bloom
with the same ferocity that they formerly did. Maintained by the Frederick W. Vanderbilt Garden Association, a small group of local gardeners and volunteers, this Italian-style garden is laid out so that if you draw a line down the middle (horizontally or vertically), one side of the line will mirror the other side. The garden has multiple tiers, each dedicated to different types of plants. The annual garden greets you as you enter, blooming summer round in bursts of color and drenched in over 6,000 plants. The perennials bloom at different times allowing for constant color throughout the summer. The bottom level contains 1,800 rose bushes, many vintage varieties. In an elegant mix of tea roses, climbers, and bush variety roses the garden is at its best bloom between June and July. The gardens are open daily from dawn until dusk and admission is free. Hyde Park. www.vanderbiltgarden.org.
The Gardens and Grounds at Locust Grove Inventor Samuel F. B. Morse bought the Locust Grove estate in Poughkeepsie in 1847. Influenced by 19th-century romantic gardens and landscaping, the house is surrounded by rolling hills and stately trees. Morse took natural elements already existing and added his own artist’s touch to frame views and create windows onto the natural world. Urns and gardens dotted throughout the grounds showcase the Morse family’s love of flowers and Victoriana. For the past 200 years, the garden situated by the house’s kitchen has provided a variety of fresh produce comprised of four plots. Along with the gardens the estate has over three miles of foot trails and carriage roads clearly marked, with trail maps available. The trails and the garden are open daily from dawn until dusk. Poughkeepsie. 845-454-4500; www.lgny.org. SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 15
Photo Courtesy Innisfree Garden
The grounds are open daily from 9am-4pm. Annandale-on-Hudson. www.hudsonvalley.org.
Innisfree Garden in Millbrook
Mount Gulian Gardens Mount Gulian is home to an English-style garden taking up four acres of this Beacon estate. Originally designed in 1804 by Daniel Crommelin Verplanck and his daughter Mary Anna, between 1827 and 1866 an escaped Maryland slave named James Brown cared for the garden. He kept track of daily events, weather, planting, and cultivating. Virginia Eliza Verplanck meticulously tended the garden afterward, starting up the annual June event of taking candles into the Fraxinella garden at night. An old fashioned rose garden at one point contained 140 rose bushes. But a fire in 1931 destroyed the garden, leaving tangles of vines in its wake. The garden as it now stands is a replica based on a 1912 map and books written on the garden by Virginia Eliza Verplanck. The original paths were uncovered from feet of brush and debris. Yuccas, roses, and peonies descending from the original 1804 plants were donated by a descendant. The garden is now ablaze again with lush flowers while Catawba and Isabella grapes drench the pergola. The site is open Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday from 1pm-5pm. Beacon. 845-831-8172; www.mountgulian.org. Montgomery Place Overlooking the Hudson River and the Catskill Mountains stands the 380-acre estate with the stunning architectural design of Andrew Jackson Davis. The gardens are sprawling with lush perennials and annuals. Herb and rose gardens and foot trails wind throughout the estate’s trails, laid out more than 100 years ago through the oldest hemlock and oak forest in the Hudson Valley. There is a naturalistic garden with an artificial stream and wild plants lying in a rough, romantic setting. Around the estate you will find a bountiful display of colors and fragrance which add an elegance in tune with its history. With classical architecture as a canvas, working orchards outline the landscape, featuring apple and pear trees as well as berries, vegetables, grapes, and peaches. 16
Cary Arboretum, institute of Ecosystem Studies Spanning 2,000 acres, the Cary Arboretum is operated by the Cary Institute of Ecosystem Studies and contains three trails featuring indigenous plant species. Fern Glen Trail has over 150 species of trees, ferns, and wildflowers. The Arboretum contains a meadow, forest, swamp, hills, and trout streams. A section called the Fern Glen has two-acres of local plant and animal habitats, laced throughout with Adirondack chairs for relaxing. Open daily from dawn until dusk. Millbrook. 845-677-5343; www.ecostudies.org. Unison Sculpture Garden Opened in 1999, the most well known feature of the garden is the Labyrinth—bridging the gap between sculpture and mediation aid. A Torii gate, built by Michael Friedman, serves as the door to the gardens beyond, dottted with sculptures by different local artists. The sculptures, located throughout the woods and fields surrounding Unison Arts Center, are changed for new works on a continual basis. Open daily from dawn until dusk. New Paltz. 845-255-1559; www.unisonarts.org. vassar shakespeare garden Vassar College’s Shakespeare Garden, planted in 1916 by college president Henry Noble MacCracken to commemorate the 300th anniversary of William Shakespeare’s death, is designed to resemble a 16th-century English garden and contain only plants mentioned in the works of the Bard. It is the second oldest of its kind in the US. The gardens are open daily. Poughkeepsie. 845-437-730; www.vassar.edu. New Paltz Regional Garden Tour For one day each year the Hudson Valley’s private gardens are opened to the public, allowing for glimpses into some of the most intriguing secrets in the region. The New Paltz Regional Garden Tour is a chance for visitors to glimpse private gardens which have been delicately crafted into awe inspiring displays. This year’s garden tour will feature gardens in and around New Paltz, the locations revealed only on the day of the tour! There will be new, never-before-seen gardens all designed with care and attention, cultivated by local residents. They are truly private sanctuaries created with ingenuity and devotion. The 7th Annual New Paltz Regional Garden Tour will be held on Sunday, July 11 from 11am to 5pm. Tickets are $25 in advance and $30 on the day of the Tour. 845-255-0243; www.newpaltzchamber.org.
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eats
Cone of Brilliance Hudson Valley Ice Cream Stands By Anne Pyburn Craig
I
ce cream. Even the words have a pleasing smoothness. Ice cream transcends the overall category of “dessert” and holds a place of its own, as a food and an experience. Emperor Nero, we’re told, liked to be provided with concoctions of snow and fruit (he sent slaves to the mountains for the snow, which must have led to some exhausting races back to the palace), and the Chinese were probably the first to venture into the wonders of frozen dairy products. Despite these far-flung origins, a case could be made for New York City as one of the hotspots (perhaps that’s the wrong word) of ice cream history. After all, the very first ice cream parlor to open was in New York in 1776. Maybe that’s why the idea of ice cream feels like freedom and childhood and serendipity, like a cosmic indication that everything’s all right, like the perfect reward for work well done or games well played. A Wall Street pushcart vendor baked the first flat-bottomed waffle cone in 1903, liberating future generations from spoons and china forever and cre-
ating a special subgenre of eating experience that kids (and adults) have been refining ever since. You can, of course, purchase rock salt and ingredients and equipment and make your own, which is an experience everyone should have at least once. But the Hudson Valley is jammed tighter than a hand-packed pint with wonderful places to enjoy your favorite flavors, so why not let the experts do the work while you and your companions simply savor the sweet reward? It’s one of the simplest and least expensive outings there is, and makes a great extra special add-on to any day’s meanderings. Ice cream could be considered a hot issue for locavores (those who prefer to eat homegrown). Two of the world’s largest Europeanbased food conglomerates produce over 50 percent of the branded ice cream in the US (including Ben and Jerry’s, Edys, and Haagen Daz). But we are blessed to be able to offer you a plethora of locally-made alternatives, as fresh and cool as they come.
One of the simplest and least expensive outings there is.
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Ice cream culture in the Hudson Valley varies from the uber-hip to the basic—and unlike basic versions of some things, basic ice cream can be truly wonderful when fresh and done right. One place you’ll find it done right is your local Stewart’s shop. With dozens of locations around the Hudson Valley and their own dairy plant in Greenfield, New York, Stewart’s may actually be easier to find than it is to avoid. Happily, among the chain’s virtues is a cornucopia of flavors of reasonably priced well-made ice cream, some of which have adorable New Yorky names like Crumbs Along the Mohawk and Adirondack Bear Claw. All flavors can be sampled on the spot, and after you’ve found yours, still more choices open up— cone or dish, type of cone, toppings? They’ll do you a shake or a make-your-own sundae or banana split, then sell you a half-gallon to bring home. The ambiance may lean a bit more to convenience store than restaurant, but there are times when that’s just fine—if you happen to need milk or eggs, say, or if you’re toting a six pack of sand-encrusted, squabbling preteens. (Nothing like cones to keep those little tongues peaceably occupied.) Stewart’s, bless its corporate heart (there does seem to be one) also offers reliably clean restrooms in most locations—handy when those cones drip. Another great Hudson Valley ice cream experience can be had at Boice Brothers Dairy on O’Neill Street in Kingston. Established in 1914, Boice Brothers is as authentic a family ice cream stand as can be found anywhere, from the shakes and sundaes to the amiable cow statue overseeing the parking lot. Boice Brothers’ product is so good that when the folks at the North Country based Adirondack Creamery operation discovered it, they decided to partner up. Thus, Adirondack Creamery ice cream is actually a Boice Brothers Kingston product. They’re not the only ones keeping Hudson Valley ice cream on the map. Some folks swear by Jane’s. Jane’s began in Phoenicia, founded by sisters Amy and Jane Keller and Bob Guidubaldi in 1985. Jane and Amy were upholding a family tradition—their father and grandfather ran a gourmet sweet shop in Brooklyn. They’ve upheld the tradition so well that Jane’s can be found in New York’s finer hotels such as the Regency and the Algonquin, as well as other “name” locations like Sak’s Fifth Avenue. You’ll also find it at Wallkill View Farm Market in New Paltz. Or, should you be touring the northern regions of the county, Jane’s sweetness can be found at Stella’s Station in Saugerties, where sidewalk seating beckons you to partake of the community ambiance along with your Cookies `n Cream. There are times when nothing but soft serve will do—times when your soul craves that special creaminess. There are still a few classic soft-serve stands scattered through the region. New Pal-
tz is especially blessed, though it can be a tough choice: to the south, on Rt. 208, Dressel’s Farm Stand offers up both soft and hard versions of your favorite flavors, alongside an outstanding array of fresh produce. Just down the road, brilliant soft serve is also available at Tantillo’s Farm Market. On the other side of the village, to the north, Village Pizza and Ice Cream has a classic soft-serve window and outdoor seating. But suppose you’re looking for something a bit more civilized. You’ve shed or dusted off the sand-encrusted offspring, and are more in the mood to sit down and be waited on? Try Gina Marie’s Timeless Sweets on Route 32 in Rosendale. Gina Marie’s combines a retro-fifties theme with a Wi-Fi café—all that and, presumably, a cherry on top if that’s what you’re hankering for. Doo-wop harmony with that egg cream, anyone? Should your wanderings take you to the east shore of the Hudson, you’re still near some noteworthy ice cream dens. Holy Cow in Red Hook routinely wins rave reviews for both price and quality, and those in the know say the long lines, even in winter, are there because the product is so very well worth waiting for. Lick Ice Cream parlor in Hudson offers Jane’s, as does the Beacon Creamery in Beacon. In between—on South Road in Poughkeepsie and also on Merritt Boulevard in Fishkill—are two outposts of the well thought of Cold Stone Creamery chain. The phrase “ice cream heaven” would probably be considered redundant by true believers. Would it be heaven without ice cream? Thanks to the Keller sisters, the Boice brothers, the Stewarts’ folks, and their colleagues, we here in the lovely environs of the Hudson Valley may never have to find out.
RESOURCES in this article Beacon Creamery www.beaconcreamery.com Boice Brothers Dairy 845-340-2018 Cold Stone Creamery www.coldstonecreamery.com Dressel’s Farm Stand www.dresselfarms.com Gina Marie’s Timeless Sweets www.ginamariestimelesssweets.com Holy Cow 845-758-5959 Jane’s Ice Cream www.janesicecream.net Tantillo’s Farm Market www.tantillosfarm.com Wallkill View Farm Market www.wallkillviewfarmmarket.com Village Pizza and Ice Cream 845-255-3100 For more info on ice cream stands, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 19
history
THE MANSION IS Historic Estates in the Hudson Valley BY Anne Pyburn Craig
T
he Hudson River and its Valley were probably cherished for their beauty and utility long before the Europeans arrived, by generations of Mahicans and Lenape who walked so lightly on the land that their vanishing left hardly a trace. Their longhouses have long since become soil and new growth. Those who came after left more than a trace. And among the remnants of 400 years as a major thoroughfare there stand some monuments to the wealth and position that came to be associated with a fine river view: the mansions of the Hudson Valley. Googling this phrase will bring you a season’s worth of places to explore, stretching from the Palisades to Albany. The glitterati of a bygone day flocked to the banks of the Hudson, and paid for the finest architects, landscapers, and decorators, building homes to befit both their station in life and the awe-inspiring views they commanded. The results were as diverse and intriguing as the personalities that envisioned, commissioned, and improved them. And some of the very finest and most interesting examples are right here in the Mid-Hudson Valley, a short ride and a small admission fee away. Plan to spend plenty of time. You’ll want to take the tour, wander the gardens, and linger at
the interpretive center; many of the estates have quite a few features and layers of history to explore. Picnic lunches are encouraged, and can easily be followed up with a nearby and exceptional restaurant dinner if you like. The Hyde Park estate where Franklin D. Roosevelt was born, preferred to live, and was ultimately buried is outstanding not just for its architecture and appointments, but for the intimate understanding it can offer of an American president—and of one of the last century’s true power couples. The mansion itself, Springwood, began as a large Edwardian home, till the nineteen-teens when FDR and his mom decided to expand it and create something more fitting for the man they both correctly assumed was going places. It’s grand indeed, yet somehow touching in its entirety—the first presidential library, the “snuggery” where his mom held sway, FDR’s numerous collections and pursuits—there is nothing generic about Springwood. Included in the price of admission are Val-Kill, where Eleanor preferred to spend her time, and Top Cottage, which FDR designed himself and planned as a handicapped-accessible hideaway for a retirement that was never to be. One senses that neither of the Roosevelts was, at heart, the mansion
Monuments to the wealth and position that came to be associated with a fine river view.
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Photo courtesy Olana State Historic Site, New York State Office of Parks, Recreation and Historic Preservation
HOME IS WHERE
Frederick Church’s Moorish marvel Olana.
type, but they realized the value of symbolism. The same cannot be said of the Frederick Vanderbilts, although Frederick was considered one of the more temperate and publicity-shy of the eight siblings of his generation. He purchased the 600-acre estate that was simply called “Hyde Park” in 1895. Why not, when you can simply hop on your family’s very own railroad to get home from the city? A nature lover, Frederick was especially fond of his gardens. His niece donated 211 acres to the public in 1938, and the appointments and furnishings have been preserved—one might think the family would be returning at any moment—so meticulously that to tour the place is to breathe in the very essence of how the Other Half once lived. The existing mansion, built by Frederick when he “joined the little colony of millionaires up the river,” as the New York Times put it, is a blend of classical and state of the art circa 1898. Both the Vanderbilt and Roosevelt mansions are maintained by the National Park Service, and can be toured seven days a week, fifty-two weeks a year—although summertime weekend tours sell out fast. Dress comfortably and bring a picnic. Not far off, in Annandale, is a postcard-pretty mansion with a ton of history. Montgomery Place was built in 1802 by Janet Livingston Montgomery, widow of the Revolutionary general Richard. Janet established “Chateau de Montgomery” as a working farm, and lived there till her demise in 1828. In mid-century, Louise—another Montgomery widow, who’d been married to Janet’s brother Edward—commissioned noted architect Alexander Jackson Davis for an update, adding ornate Romanticism to the mix. Andrew Jackson Downing hung out and informally helped with the landscaping. Heating and plumbing came in 1921, and the home stayed in family hands until descendants sold it as a historic landmark. Seventeen major structures and 380 acres of landscaping, orchards, trails and gardens reveal generations of a well-to-do family in which the women apparently mourned by building. A substantial cash infusion means the owners, Historic Hudson Valley, are planning expanded programming. Check www.hudsonvalley.org for more info on Montgomery Place and the organization’s other historic holdings. Another Alexander Jackson Davis masterpiece, located in Poughkeepsie, is Locust Grove. Named and first cleared by a Livingston, Locust Grove was purchased by Samuel F.B. Morse in 1847, ten years after he patented the telegraph. A widower, he moved there with his three kids, found a second wife, and commissioned Davis for some renovation work. The result was an Italian-influenced villa. Morse had a passion for improving the place, and did it so well that SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 21
Photo: W.D. Urb Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site, Hyde Park.
later owners, the Youngs, kept it just as it had been during his life. While not feeling the need to mess with Morse’s masterpiece, they did fill it with their lifelong and major collections of furniture, art, and ceramics. A unique feature: the Heritage Garden, a kitchen garden in continuous cultivation for over 200 years. For more information, visit www. lgny.org. Up near Hudson is arguably one of the most intriguing examples of nineteenth century mansion building anywhere—of course, one would expect nothing less of an artist. Frederic Church started with a “Cosy Cottage,” but his improving fortunes and travels to exotic lands inspired him to create Olana, a “Persian-style” manse designed by Calvert Vaux. Church himself, with his artist’s eye, composed the landscape. The interior is remarkably preserved, thanks to a stubborn daughter in law and a band of ardent preservationists who stepped hastily in at her demise. The Churches were travelers and collectors of tapestries, rugs, bronzes, paintings, sculpture, furniture, and other things harder to classify. Frederic’s amazing personal art collection still hangs among original furnishings; the views that inspired him can be seen anew from his studio. The whole is, of course, set amidst some of the most awe-inspiring views of the mighty Hudson to be found anywhere. There is nothing quite like Olana. Yet another Great House, of quite a different sort, can be found in Garrison. Boscobel was the dream home of one States Dyckman, who wished to create a legacy that would demonstrate for generations his success and refinement of taste. Unfortunately for States, he died in 1806, with only the foundation complete. Fortunately for the rest of us, his loving widow carried on, moving into the imposing Federalist structure two years later. Dyckman was heavily influenced by his experiences of the mansions of England, and planned Boscobel with neoclassical touches that won rave reviews, both then and now. Boscobel has been restored, rather than preserved. The building was auctioned for $35 in the 22
1950s. Parts of it actually spent time stored in a barn, and other parts were sold off and had to be reclaimed; the mansion’s current location is actually a few miles from Dyckman’s original home. The dramatic and last-minute rescue was championed by the Wallace family of Reader’s Digest fame. One can picture old States Dyckman observing from the Other Side, twisting his hat in his hands. But the forces of reverence prevailed, and today Boscobel stands ready to entertain visitors, whether for a picnic, a tour, or a special event. Quite a bit goes on there, including a Shakespeare Festival. States would surely be gratified. The historic homes of the Hudson Valley once bustled with society parties and political intrigue—and undoubtedly, family drama that would feel familiar today. Happily for us moderns, the creations of the “little colony of millionaires” whether owned by the National Park Service or other preservation organizations, now welcome school kids, event planners, artists with sketchbook in hand, gardeners seeking inspiration—and you, as you step into bygone worlds, their occupants gone forever. Lavish, sometimes ostentatious, deeply moving in their homage to the beauty of the surroundings, the Great Homes of the Hudson will awe and amaze most everyone from nine to ninety nine, and are not to be missed.
RESOURCES in this article Boscobel www.boscobel.org FDR Estate www.nps.gov/hofr Montgomery Place www.hudsonvalley.org Olana www.olana.org Val-Kill www.nps.gov/elro/index.htm Vanderbilt Estate www.nps.gov/vama For more info on historic sites, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
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SOUND THE RETREAT
Photo courtesy of Omega Institute for Holistic Studies
lodging
Recharging in Hudson Valley Havens By Anne Pyburn Craig
S
ometimes all you need is a change of scenery, a different spot to hang your hat, and a few fresh experiences. Sometimes, though, what’s called for is a step up from a typical getaway—sometimes, a fullfledged retreat is in order. Retreating has a long and venerable history. Most of the world’s great sages have gone on retreat at some point or several points. Jesus did his 40 days; Henry David Thoreau had his Walden Pond. Most of us regular folk have some special spot or nook where we can hide long enough to regroup, whether it’s a rooftop, a mountaintop, or a coffee shop. If a little time in your familiar retreat spot is enough to refresh, just imagine how wonderful you’ll feel after taking on an actual retreat retreat—that’s to say, indulging in a few days at one of the many and varied spots around the Hudson Valley that cater specifically to those seeking renewal and rejuvenation of the body and soul. 24
There’s something nearby for almost everyone, as you might expect in a spot both pretty enough to inspire an entire school of painting and yet nestled close to the epicenter of business and frenzy that is New York City. There are retreats where your entire day will be planned for you and others where you are encouraged to do absolutely nothing, retreats that focus on physical wellness and others that emphasize spiritual practice, retreats brimming with silence and retreats where communication and education take center stage. The Hudson Valley offers everything from venerable Christian and formal Buddhist establishments to those of decidedly more alternative persuasion, where you can pretty much design the spiritual component of your retreat experience to mean whatever you think it should. Mount Saint Alphonsus, in Esopus, is a Redemptorist Catholic retreat center serving both religious and lay folks with over 100 themed
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Photo (left) courtesy of Omega Institute for Holistic Studies Photo (right) courtesy of Frost Valley YMCA Opposite: Guest meditates in serene setting at the Sanctuary at Omega. Above (left to right): Guests of Omega take part in daily yoga classes designed for beginners and intermediate students; Women’s Wellness Weekend wheel thrown pottery class at Frost Valley YMCA.
gatherings a year since 1904. Across the river in Rhinebeck, Linwood Retreat Center follows the Jesuit creed of St. Ignatius Loyola and offers directed, private, 12-step-themed and yoga-centered programming. Linwood also offers its facilities to groups of various sorts, retreats that have a theme but just need a place to happen—as does the Lifebridge Sanctuary, on a splendid mountaintop in Rosendale. Lifebridge is non-denominational, handcrafted, and green-built, a wonderful spot to arrange a meeting or training. Their mission spreads a welcome mat for “organizations and individuals who are creating bridges of understanding among all people by actions to realize the oneness of humanity and the interconnectedness of all life.” Catering, yoga, and massage are all offered to replenish the needed reserves. Another, smaller-scale custom retreat experience is available at Roots and Wings in New Paltz, operated by interfaith minister Puja Thompson in a charming setting in New Paltz. Roots and Wings can be a simple B&B, albeit a B&B with a labyrinth—or you can select from a menu of services and features designed for either couples or individuals to focus on one of several themes: Relaxation and Calm, Reconnecting to Love, or Spiritual Renewal. Or you can design your own theme with Puja’s ingredients—a range
of healing modalities including massage, energy balancing, guided imagery and meditation, Bach flower therapy, and more. The Copperhood Inn in Shandaken has been described as “serenity incarnate.” Treatments include herbal, mud and milk-and honey wraps; sea-salt scrubs; and exotic facials, and there’s yoga. All of this, on the banks of the Esopus. Copperhood claims a “casual European elegance and sensibility,” and regularly gets rave reviews from sophisticated retreatants. If you’re in the mood for a retreat that focuses more on the mind and less on the body, consider the amazing offerings at Omega Institute. Their catalogue is eclectic and astonishing: learn to teach yoga, build sustainably, cook healthy, or chant ecstatically. How about a workshop led by New Age star power such as Marianne Williamson or Dan Millman (Way of the Peaceful Warrior)? Accommodations for campers and discounts for those who volunteer to help out keep this monument to holistic education and wellness available to all; a newly constructed Sustainable Living Center showcases state of the art green building. Then there’s Menla Mountain Retreat Center. If you like your retreats big and your retreat centers commodious, Menla might be for you. With a gracious 4,050 square foot main hall seating 300
There are retreats where your entire day will be planned for you and others where you are encouraged to do absolutely nothing.
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 25
Photo courtesy of Frost Valley YMCA Frost Valley YMCA guests canoeing on Lake Cole.
persons, several break-out rooms, and personalized service and care, Menla is the perfect environment for board and staff retreats, national and international conferences, and as a meeting place for healthcare professionals, teachers of western and eastern philosophies and similar groups. It is also ideal for yoga retreats and teacher trainings, literary gatherings, artists’ workshops and seminars, family reunions and meetings of all types. Another retreating-is-what-you-make-it spot with wonderful facilities and an outstanding location is Frost Valley YMCA, a 6,500-acre camping, conference, and family vacation destination in the “forever wild” Catskill Mountain Preserve outside of Claryville. Established in 1901, Frost Valley provides four-season programs that emphasize environmental education and reconnecting with the natural world. Back down in Rosendale is the poetically named and located Sky Lake Lodge, a Shambhala contemplative center for meditation, arts and community. There are weekends focused on Buddhist or Shambala education, and their 18-bed lodge is available for conferences and group retreats, as well as B&B weekends. Also Buddhist in orientation is the Dharma Drum Center in Pine Bush, founded by the renowned scholar and teacher of Chan Buddhism, Chan Master Sheng Yen. Topics such as Western Zen and Silent Illumination feature prominently on the menu. Peace Village, located in Haines Falls, is operated by the Brahma Kumaris. Their World Spiritual University “acknowledges the intrinsic goodness of all people. We teach a practical method of meditation that helps individuals understand their inner strengths and values.” Which sounds more than a little bit related to the results sought by the Redemptorists of Mount Saint Alphonsus, and probably those of the sea-salt wraps of the Copperhood—although Peace Village may never 26
have claimed to leave visitors feeling “Red Carpet Fabulous.” You get the idea. In this day and age, retreating might be more important than ever- and is most definitely whatever you want to make it. Sit at the feet of wise ones, contact your Inner Wise Ones in solitude, or just take a nice long hike—isolate yourself for days of silence, or retreat by day and hit a Woodstock music spot in the evening. As with so many of life’s necessaries, the Hudson Valley/Catskills region offers an eclectic and top-quality selection. Whoever you may be, and whatever you’d like to escape from- whatever you might want to experience instead—we’ve got your retreat, peaceable, lovely, and waiting for you.
RESOURCES in this article Copperhood Inn www.copperhood.com Dharma Drum Retreat Center www.dharmadrumretreat.org Frost Valley YMCA www.fullmoonresort.com Lifebridge Sanctuary www.lifebridge.org Linwood Retreat Center www.linwoodspiritualctr.org Menla Mountain Retreat Center www.menla.org Mount Saint Alphonsus www.mountsaintalphonsus.org Omega Institute www.eomega.org Peace Village www.peace-village.org Roots and Wings www.rootsnwings.com Sky Lake Lodge www.skylake.shambhala.org For more info on local accommodations, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
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Mountain Meadows Bed & Breakfast
A contemporary bed and breakfast with heated pool, hot tub, central air, and full breakfast with homemade baked goods.
A Country Bed & Breakfast Come & enjoy our cozy Lodge, converted from an early 1800’s post-and-beam barn, and Guest Cottage in a country setting with gardens, pool and mountain views. 542 Albany Post Road, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-6144 www.mountainmeadowsbnb.com
Weddings are our passion. Service at the salon or on location. Customized wedding packages available. Serving the Hudson Valley and beyond!
View our wedding portfolio at www.studioonehairdesign.com (845) 255-5505 246 Main Street New Paltz, NY
The Great Room offers a comfortable place to relax, with a roaring fire on winter evenings or enjoy those summer nights on the covered veranda. Choose from six comfortable guest rooms with private baths. Comforts include central AC, several fireplaces, spacious lawns, gardens and the grand swimming pool. Located near Storm King Art Center, West Point, DIA: Beacon, Woodbury Common Premium Outlets, and 1 hour from NYC. Great restaurants nearby. Recommended as a Great B & B —Lonely Planet.com
100 Pleasant Hill Rd, Mountainville (Cornwall), NY 10953 845.534.9421 | www.stormkinglodge.com
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 27
Gimme
Danger
Photo by Matt Petricone
outdoors
Extreme Sports in the Hudson Valley By Peter Aaron
M
any visitors to the Catskills regularly enjoy the numerous time-tested activities the region has long been known for; popular family-friendly pastimes like camping, fishing, hiking, canoeing, and traditional Alpine and cross-country skiing. Reliable diversions that appeal to grandpa as well as his toddling, sippy cup-swigging descendents. Which is all very fine, of course. Makes for a nice weekend in the country and all that. But then, however, there’s a bolder breed. Those in search of something more, shall we say, stimulating in their choice of outdoor amusements. True adrenaline junkies who seek out and leap—sometimes quite literally—to do things that will have meeker types questioning their sanity. Adventurers who prefer living 28
on the edge—again, often literally—and just can’t get their fill of skydiving, hang gliding, rock climbing, downhill and mountain biking, and similar acts of derring-do. And, believe it or not their numbers are growing, faster than ol’ grandpa can unpack his picnic basket. Welcome to the Hudson Valley’s world of extreme sports, a hyper-exciting, kicks-packed universe that fearlessly dares you to be a part of it all. Think you’re up for the challenge? All right, then—cue galloping heavy metal drums and squealing lead guitar—let’s take the plunge… Extreme sports, also called action sports or adventure sports, are certain activities considered to have a high level of inherent danger and thusly perceived as being counter-cultural. Such heart-pounding exploits often involve speed, height, a high level of physical exertion, highly
WWW.NEWPALTZCHAMBER.ORG THE NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
Photo by Laszlo Andacs
over 40 antiq ps & e, art & oh... ue deale o h that s ffe vie rs, 20 od, co w! o f
Opposite: Riders enjoy the scenery and contemplate lines to take in the next section of the trail at Hunter Mountain. Above: Thrill seekers tandem jump at Skydive the Ranch.
specialized gear, or spectacular stunts, and, not exactly surprisingly, these exploits tend to appeal mainly to younger atheletes. The origins of the term extreme sports are unclear, but the phrase became popular in the 1990s when it was picked up by ESPN and marketing companies. No doubt the best place to start when it comes to extreme sports in the Hudson Valley is the Gardiner-based Adventure Junction, which was founded by Gunter Spilhaus, a former naval officer, US National Adventure Racing Team member, and movie stunt man, to serve as a one-stop portal for all the area has to offer in the way of adventure sports. The environmentally conscious company recently launched an upgraded version of its website, where users can quickly and easily put together and set up outings, with access to everything from equipment rentals to accommodations and dining. “We want this to be the most comprehensive search tool the Hudson Valley has to offer, no limitations,” Spilhaus says. With the site currently moving to widen its scope to also encompass art and culinary components, Adventure Junction is an invaluable first stop for those looking to get a leg up on the local action. And speaking of getting a leg up, the nearby Shawangunk Mountains are home to some of the most spectacular rock climbing areas on Earth. New Paltz’s Rock & Snow opened in 1974 to cater to this challenging and thriving sport, and is managed by Rich Gottleib, himself a world-renowned climber. “I prefer the term ‘outdoor activities’ rather than extreme sports because it’s more inclusive—our climbers include everyone from math professors to astronomers; we’re not about encouraging rowdy stereotypes,” Gottleib says. “A lot of visiting climbers come to the Gunks because they’re also doing business
Special Events Live Music Every Weekend Live Music Plenty of Free Parking
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Photo by Marty Molitoris / Alpine Endeavors
in New York. [The Hudson Valley] has this beautiful dichotomy, where only two hours from the city you get this gorgeous rural area with wonderful rocks to climb on.” Now in its second location, Rock & Snow stocks the newest and most innovative gear and clothing related to climbing and outdoor recreation, including rock and ice climbing equipment, cross country skis and accessories, camping supplies, and more. Additionally, Gottleib and his experienced staff are always ready to dispense advice about routes and trails, and work with local guides who provide climbers of all levels with training and assistance. The outfitter also donates a portion of its sales to support regional preservation efforts. Also located in the New Paltz area is Skydive the Ranch, which operates from Gardiner’s Sky Blue Ranch airport and has been the New York/New Jersey/Connecticut region’s leading skydiving and parachuting school for over 20 years. After only 15 minutes of training firsttime jumpers 18 years and older can—together with a ride-along tandem instructor—get the unparalleled rush that can only come from leaping out of an airplane at 13,500 feet. “It really is a lifetime experience,” says Kay Hoiby, the facility’s co-owner and a skydiver since 1980. “We’re a private airport so there isn’t any other air traffic to slow things down, and since this is such a pretty area the jump itself is especially wonderful.” With an additional program for expe-
rienced jumpers, Skydive the Ranch is open from April through November (weather permitting) and for an added fee offers clients a DVD of their jump. Thrill-seekers who aren’t quite ready to land yet might want to try their hand at hang gliding at Mountain Wings in Ellenville. Situated at the foot of Ellenville Mountain, the site has been called “the hang gliding capital of the Northeast” and boasts a distance record of 141 miles and a duration record of 11.5 hours. “Most people find that hang gliding is actually very peaceful and relaxing,” says owner Greg Black, who made his first flight in 1975 and started the United States Hang Gliding Association-certified school in 1981. “A lot of our clients are Manhattan business people, and they tell us that they find hang gliding is more helpful than therapy.” Along with its comprehensive, one-on-one pilot-training courses, Mountain Wings features repairs, sales, and servicing of ultra-light craft and related gear. Back down on the ground there’s no shortage of excitement in the Hudson Valley when it comes to off-road bicycling. The territory is a mecca for non-pavement pedalers, thanks to the striking diversity of its landscape, which not only includes some of the trickiest terrain on the East Coast but also offers laid-back, visually dazzling rides through lush forests, across vast, grassy fields, and along the grounds of his-
“Our climbers include everyone from math professors to astronomers.”
30
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Alpine Endeavors guide Joseph Vitti climbing the Gunks overlooking New Paltz.
toric mansions and other sites. Bikers can get kitted out at the Bicycle Rack in New Paltz, which has been in business since 1974. In addition to the necessary parts, accessories, and apparel, the shop carries a wide selection of BMX, touring, children’s, and, of course, mountain bike models. Riders looking to put their bikes through the paces have literally dozens of spots to choose from. Beginners and intermediate types are pointed to Minnewaska and James Baird state parks and Mohonk Preserve, whose marked and maintained trails are complemented by stunning mountain views (the buffer zone around nearby Stewart International Airport is also a popular riding area). Advanced bikers prefer Clarence Fahnestock Memorial and Mills-Norie state parks, Blue Mountain Reservation, Bowdoin Park, and Mount Beacon, all of which promise craggy, high-altitude trails and fast-paced singletracks. Those interested in the ultimate in pulse-quickening, two-wheeled excursions, however, should head to either the Hunter Mountain or Belleayre Mountain ski resorts, which in warmer months open their high-speed downhill trails to daring mountain bikers and even run chairlifts to take them up to their lofty starting points (Belleayre’s bike season starts in late April, Hunter’s in July). So if you’re one who wants their outdoor summer fun kicked up to hyperdrive, the amount and variety of thrilling activities to be found in the Hudson Valley should be more than enough to make your helmet-wearing head spin—just the way you like it. But watch out for grandpa: He may just be inspired enough to leave you in the dust.
resourceS in this article Adventure Junction www.adventure-junction.com; (845) 526-8073
Mountain Laurel Waldorf School Early Childhood through 8th grade
Where students discover their strengths, recognize their responsibility to others and envision the full possibility of their lives.
16 S. Chestnut Street, New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-0033 www.mountainlaurel.org
Rock & Snow www.rockandsnow.com; (845) 255-1311 Skydive the Ranch www.skydivetheranch.com; (845) 255-4033 Mountain Wings www.mtnwings.com; (845) 647-3377 The Bicycle Rack www.thebicyclerack.com; (845) 255-1770 Hudson Valley Mountain Biking www.hudsonriver.com/hudson-river-mountain-biking Hunter Mountain www.huntermtn.com; (518) 236-3800 Belleayre Mountain www.belleayre.com; (845) 254-5600 For complete outfitting resources, visit www.newpaltzchamber.org.
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 31
EVENTS
SPRING/SUMMER
EVENTS By SIOBHAN K. MCBRIDE
April 10-July 31 The Byrdcliffe Guild 2010 While giving solitude to artists Byrdcliffe preserves the land. This spring and summer the historic artist colony of Byrdcliffe, founded in 1903, will be featuring a bevy of performances and exhibitions amongst its rustic arts and crafts buildings. First up, part of V-Day Woodstock, Eve Ensler’s “The Vagina Monologues” (April 23-24) benefiting Family Domestic Violence Services. The Bob Dylan Birthday Celebration (May 22) will celebrate the rock icon’s 68th birthday with Happy Traum, Andy Friedman, Doug Yoel, and indie-folk singer Kelleigh McKenzie. “A Perfect Gift: All That Is Jazz” will be held on July 17 with jazz, dance, and music revue, and on July 31 the 19th annual Woodstock Beat, a benefit for Byrdcliffe, will be thumping at the Maverick Concert Hall. Woodstock. 845-679-2079; www.woodstockguild.org. 32
April 10-September 26 Andy Warhol: Private and Public in 151 photographs The public and private lives of Andy Warhol and his circle of friends will be on display at the Samuel Dorsky Museum at SUNY New Paltz. Recently donated by The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, the exhibition searches the interconnections between his personal and social life. The exhibition will be a display of 151 Polariod and black-and-white photographs taken by Warhol between 1972 and 1986. New Paltz. 845-257-3844; www.newpaltz.edu/museum. April 15-April 25 The Trojan Women The SUNY Ulster Theater Department will perform Euripedes’ classical Greek tragedy dealing with the Trojan War. Follow the fates of the women of Troy after their city has been destroyed, their
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Opposite (clockwise from top left): Polaroids by Andy Warhol: Valentino, 1973; Untitled woman, 1982; Dina Merrill, 1976-1977; Jean-Michel Basquiat, 1983. Gifts of The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc., The Andy Warhol Photographic Legacy Program ©2010 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York.
husbands killed, and their families taken away as slaves. Suggested donation: $10. SUNY Ulster, Stone Ridge. 845-688-1959; www.sunyulster.edu.
April 24-April 25 40th Annual Hudson Valley Earth Day Celebration In honor and support of environmentally healthy living and education, the Dutchess County Fairgrounds will be hosting the 40th Hudson Valley Earth Day Celebration. On 162-acres, the outdoor/indoor green facility will host this familyfriendly event. Experience two days filled with hands-on green activities such as tree planting, organic food tastings and demonstrations, and environmental workshops for kids. With plenty of food and activities for every age. Rhinebeck. 845-876-4000; www.dutchessfair.com. April 24-April 25 TAP New York The annual TAP New York Craft Beer and Food Festival returns again this summer to Hunter Mountain delivering the choicest brews and foods New York has to offer, including selections from beers across the state, from Buffalo to Long Island. The food theme this year will be Barbecue with myriad cooking demonstrations and beer pairings. Hunter Mountain, Hunter. 518-263-4223; www.tap-ny.com. April 24-July 26 Bethel Woods: Center for the Arts 2010 Where the original Woodstock festival took place now stands a $100 million outdoor performing arts center dedicated to the cultural transformation it induced. This summer Bethel Wood’s line-up includes concerts from Yes (June 18), Ringo Starr and His All Star Band (June 26), The Dave Matthews Band with Amos Lee (July 13), Sting (July 30), and REO Speedwagon (August 28). There will also be a film series dedicated to the Vietnam War and its impacts throughout the summer showing The Fog of War (2003) and In the Year of the Pig (1969). Bethel. 866-781-2922; www.bethelwoodscenter.org. April 25 and May 1 Dia:Beacon Dia has been providing artists and audiences long-term appreciation of art displays. The foundation’s Beacon museum holds a large collection
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of works from the 1960s and 1970s in the 300,000 square-foot historic box factory, among other presentations dispersed throughout their galleries. This spring they will feature an exhibit by Imi Knoebel, 24 Colors-for Blinky, which is on display for the first time in North America, as well as Zoe Leonard’s You see I am here after all; both are on display until September 6. St. Luke’s Chamber Ensemble will continue its association with the museum, performing on April 25. On May 1, the Trisha Brown Dance Company will stage the third of three performances in a year-long residency, featuring Brown’s sitespecific choreography in the museum. Beacon. 845-440-0100; www.diaart.org.
May 2 New Paltz Regatta This year marks the 10th anniversary of the New Paltz Regatta, a “race” more spectacle than speedfest. With crafts made from anything but a manufactured boat, the floating sculptures are imagination brought to life. With barrels, inner tubes, ropes, wire, and more, contestants build anything from a sinking pirate ship to a man-eating shark to a raft fit for Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer. After a parade down Main Street, the homemade boats take to the Wallkill River. Boats are judged on elegance, originality, and most comedical. Parade starts at 1:30pm. 845-532-8376; www.newpaltzny.net/regatta May 23 Pilobolus The Bardavon presents the dance group Pilobolus. Forty years after its creation in 1971, Pilobolus is still breaking barriers when it comes to innovative dance. With a mix of athleticism and imaginative collaboration, they’ve become known the world over for their astonishing and radical performances. Decide on becoming awestruck 34
this May. Bardavon Opera House, Poughkeepsie. 845-473-5288; www.bardavon.org.
May 29-31 & September 4-6 Woodstock-New Paltz Arts and Crafts Fair Bookending the summer with events on Memorial Day and Labor Day weekends, the WoodstockNew Paltz Arts and Crafts Fair is the granddaddy of Hudson Valley arts and crafts, with over 300 crafters and artisans. Enjoy demonstrations in chair making in the Windsor tradition, watch the making of hand-formed cedar canoes, furniture techniques, doll making, and jewelry in the demonstration area. Or browse the multiple vendors for supplies from hand-spun yarn to tools to begin your own crafts while you taste the variety of specialty foods offered. View detail-oriented pieces made by some of the best artisans in the Hudson Valley. Don’t forget live music by Dan Strauss and a wildlife show. Children are welcomed to experience events at the children’s center, with face painting and supervised arts and crafts. Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz. (845) 255-1380; www.quailhollow.com. June 11-13 Rhinebeck Grand National Super Meet The Antique Motorcycle Club of America will host another Super Meet at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds. With participants from all over the country, the Motorcycle Timeline will showcase antique motorcycles, 35 years and older, with past events featuring bikes dating back to the 1890s. The California Hell Riders Wall of Death will return with its 90-degree perpendicular track and daring stunts. And a new event, an Antique Motorcycle Auction will be held by MidAmerica Auctions. Gate fee is $15 a day, or $25 for three days—children under 12 are free. Dutchess County Fairgrounds, Rhinebeck. (845) 876-4000; www.rhinebecknationalmeet.com.
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29 T H A N N I VE R S A R Y YE A R
America's Premier Crafts Showcase
WOODSTOCKNEW PALTZ
ART& CRAFTS FAIR Memorial Day
Opposite: Imi Knoebel, 24 Colors—for Blinky, 1977. Installation view at Dia:Beacon, Beacon, NY. Dia Art Foundation, New York. Photo: Bill Jacobson. Above: Jeff Beck to perform at UPAC, Kingston on June 17.
June 17 Jeff Beck at UPAC In this rare, small theater concert Jeff Beck will perform with his full band. After changing the face of music, from blues to jazz to today’s pop, Jeff Beck is regarded as one of the most influential guitarists of rock and roll music. He’s been compared to Jimmy Page, Eric Clapton, and Jimi Hendrix and has contributed to the albums of Cyndi Lauper and Imogen Heap. Nominated for multiple Grammy awards, last April he was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Tickets are $75/$70 for members. UPAC, Kingston. 845-339-6088; www.bardavon.org.
Mark Majewski
Weekend
May 29, 30 & 31
Labor Day Weekend
Sept. 4, 5, & 6
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June 19-20 Around the World in 80 Miles Follow the Shawangunk Wine Trail’s 11 wineries in a tasting of world cuisine during this annual self-guided wine tour. With each winery posing as a different country, pick a starting winery and travel the world of food and wine. At your starting “country� you receive a “passport� and wine glass. Then travel as you choose and discover which wines pair well with what food. Tickets are $27 for tasters and $5.40 for designated drivers; starts at 10am. 845-256-8456; www.shawangunkwinetrail.com. June 25-August 1 Powerhouse Theater at Vassar College The developing works of up-and-coming and established artists in theater and film are showcased in an intense eight week stint at Vassar College each summer. Vassar, along with New York Stage and Film’s Powerhouse Theater, provides a viewing of the in-process works by the nation’s top-artists. Watch the development of plays and musicals before they move SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 35
The Dutchess County Fair in Rhinebeck.
onto the larger venues—to Broadway, across the country, and around the world. Previous seasons have included productions by Lee Blessing and John Patrick Shanley and starring David Straitharn and Julianna Marguiles. Tickets are $35. Vassar College, Poughkeepsie. 845-437-5907; www.powerhouse.vassar.edu.
June 25-June 27 Good Guys Rod and Custom Car Show The 19th annual East Coast Nationals is coming to the Dutchess Fairgrounds. Over 1,500 Rods, Customs, Classics, and Muscle Cars spanning through 1972 will be on display alongside vendor and manufacturer exhibits and Goodgals gallery. This year will include a model/pedal car show, poker run, nightly parties, and stage shows. Special awards will include the 2010 Muscle Car of the Year Finalist, 2010 Kustom Car of the Year Finalist, Gazette Pick, and Goodguys Builder’s Choice Awards. Tickets are $18/$6 for children 7-12 years old. Dutchess County Fairgrounds, Rhinebeck. 845-876-4001; www.dutchessfair.com. July 4 The Hudson Valley Philharmonic and Fireworks Enjoy a fourth of July celebration accompanied by the classic music of the Hudson Valley Philharmonic. Located at the Dutchess Fairgrounds in Rhinebeck. Throw some blankets and lawn chairs in your bag and enjoy the celebration. Previously featuring children’s games, carnival rides, a petting zoo, pony rides, homemade apple pie, and other delectable delights to ring in Independence Day. The Philharmonic will perform the “1812 overture” and patriotic music to accompany the fireworks which start at dusk. Dutchess Fairgrounds, Rhinebeck. 845-876-4000; www.dutchessfair.com. July 8-August 22 Bard Summerscape Long noted as one of the most intellectual36
ly and musically stimulating summer festivals, the Bard Summerscape will start this season off with the Trisha Brown Dance Company (July 8-11). The provocative drama, “Judement Day,” written by Odon Von Horvath in 1937 in a Naziruled Berlin will be performed select days July 14-25. Franz Schreker’s 1910 opera “The Distant Sound (Der Ferne Klang)” will be premiering for the first time in North America July 30. Follow the sensationally influential story of Alban Berg, the Austrian composer, August 13-15/20-22, with performances, panel discussions, and films examining his impact. Or delve into a film series on German expressionist and American film noir with “The Best of G. W. Pabst” (July 15-August 19, Thursdays and Sundays). If you’re more in the mood for drinks, dancing, or food, the Spiegeltent has a caberet, live music, and an array of foods. Bard College, Annandale-on-Hudson. www.fishercenter.bard.edu/summerscape
July 10-july 11 New Paltz Library Fair Join the Elting Memorial Library for their annual library fair. Get bargains on books, antiques, artwork, and jewelery. A silent auction and raffle will feature everything from furniture to artwork to wine which have been locally donated. An early bird special on books will take place on Saturday from 8am-9am with a $10 donation, and sales will continue on Sunday from 9am-3pm. Taking place rain or shine, the fair will be held from 9am-4pm at the Elting Memorial Library. New Paltz. 845- 255-5030; www.eltinglibrary.org. July 11 7th Annual New Paltz Regional Garden Tour Experience a hidden view of the bountiful landscape that surrounds us in the Hudson Valley. In its 7th year the New Paltz Garden Tour allows a peek into the spectacular private gardens that are tucked away throughout the region.
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The tour lasts about six hours as you traverse the blooming magnificence of the area during the summer. Previous tours have featured gardens from New Paltz, Gardiner, Milton, Highland, Modena, and Ulster Park. Produced by the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce; 845-255-0243; www.newpaltzchamber.org.
July 30 Sting and the Royal Philharmonic at Bethel Woods As part of his world tour, Sting will be making a stop at Bethel Woods to sing the most well-known and well-loved songs of his career. Through an infamous career, with the Police and as a solo artist, Sting has broken ground with his musical experimentation. The concert will feature the 45-piece Royal Philharmonic conducted by Steven Mercurio, reinterpreting his song with their orchestrations. Tickets range from $180-$36. Bethel. 866-781-2922; www.bethelwoodscenter.org. August 3-August 8 The Ulster County Fair Join a local tradition at the Ulster County Fair this summer. Packed with rides, food, and live entertainment—headliners will include the Hot Rod Band, Bucky Covington, and Jay and the Americans. With traditional fair foods, drinks, and treats, horse shows, pig races, games, and tractor pulls there’s something for every age and personality. Ulster County Fairgrounds, New Paltz. www.ulstercountyfair.com. August 13-August 14 Arm-of-the-Sea Theater: Esopus Creek Puppet Suite Arm-of-the-Sea Theater is a nonprofit organization that for over 20 years has been fascinating with their mystical, large-scale puppet performances. The five-member troupe, based in Saugerties, tours cultural centers, festivals, and schools throughout the eastern half of the country. They incorporate music along with the spec-
tacular visuals of the massive puppetry to give a surreal experience to the audience. Exploring modern issues in an ancient tradition of masks and puppets and illuminating the balance necessary between human beings and the natural world that supports us, its summer pageant performed al fresco over two nights at Tina Chorvas Waterfront Park is a rite of summer. Saugerties. 845-246-7873; www.armofthesea.org.
August 22 Artists Soapbox Derby Gather up your tool box, stock up on paint, wood, and some good elbow pads—the Kingston’s Soapbox Derby is barreling down Broadway towards the Rondout Creek once again. Although this is not a race—some call it a “kinetic sculpture festival”—if a soapbox derby and an art exhibit had a baby this would be the result. Whether you’re entering your own soapbox or just planning on watching you’re sure to enjoy yourself while seeing the inventiveness of the community. With music, food, and dancing there will be over $2,000 in prizes awarded in the Youth, Adult, and Family Group categories. The event starts at 1pm and is provided by Donskoj & Co. and the City of Kingston. 845-338-8473; www.artistsoapboxderby.com. August 24-August 29 Dutchess County FairvEach August the Dutchess fairgrounds in Rhinebeck hosts the second-largest county fair in New York State, bringing in nearly half a million guests. The 160 acres of precisely manicured gardens are created by local argriculturalists. With plenty of games and rides for the whole family, arts and crafts, or scrumptous home-made treats. From a canine tent to horse pulls, from free shows and strolling acts like the German juggler or Oscar the Roving Robot along with the foods, drinks, and sweets you crave each year, the Dutchess County Fair excites with possibilities. Rhinebeck. 845-876-4000; www. dutchessfair.com.
Photo by Teresa Horgan
Save The Date: The 20th Annual Taste of New Paltz September 12 Each fall the New Paltz Regional Chamber of Commerce and local eateries showcase a tasting of what the town has to offer. The Ulster County Fairgrounds is transformed into a display of the best food and wine in the area. Along with crafts, music, and children’s activities the Taste of New Paltz will feature a Business Expo and Wellness and Recreation Expo featuring exercise demos, massage, and chiropractic. 11am-5pm. It will be $5 to enter, and $2-$3 a tasting. New Paltz. 845-255-0243; www.newpaltzchamber.org.
SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 37
9
School of Fine & Performing Arts Information: 845.257.3860 PIANOSUMMER 2010 Vladimir Feltsman, artistic director www.newpaltz.edu/piano July 10 – 30 Festival concerts, recitals, competitions, master classes, lectures – all open to the public. Guest artists: Nikolai Demidenko, Haesun Paik, Eduard Zilberkant
SAMUEL DORSKY MUSEUM OF ART www.newpaltz.edu/museum 845.257.3844
Renee C. Byer: A Mother’s Journey and Selected Photographs Thru April 11, 2010
Andy Warhol: Private and Public in 151 Photographs April 10 – Sept. 26 Opening reception: April 9, 5-7 p.m.
Body, Line, Motion: Selections from the Permanent Collection Thru April 11, 2010
Hudson Valley Artists 2010: Contemporary Art and Praxis June 26 – Sept. 25 Carolee Schneemann: Within and Beyond the Premises Thru July 25, 2010
41 ANNIVERSARY ST
1969 - 2010 COMBINING FINE DINING AND COUNTRY BISTRO
NATIONAL REGISTERED PROPERTIES
LOCATED IN THE WINE CELLAR OF RESERVATIONS REQUESTED FOR A TABLE UPSTAIRS IN THE DEPUY CANAL HOUSE ONE OF OUR FOUR ROMANTIC FIREPLACE ROOMS The Center of the Universe, High Falls 845-687-7700 www.depuycanalhouse.com
Discover our heavenly cuisine, fresh & homemade from the finest ingredients. Everyday 10% Early Bird or Student Discount CATERING OFFERED
ZAGAT RATED
5 Church St, New Paltz NY | 845.255.2772 www.suruchiindian.com Hours: Wed/Th 5-9, Fri 5-10, Sat 3-10, Sun 4-9
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WWW.NEWPALTZCHAMBER.ORG THE NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
INFO
Hospitals
Airports
Benedictine Hospital 105 Mary’s Avenue, Kingston 845-338-2500
Albany International Airport (ALB) Albany 518-242-2200; 518-242-2299
Ellenville Regional Hospital Route 209, Ellenville 845-647-6400
Stewart International Airport (SWF) Newburgh 845-564-2100
Kingston Hospital 396 Broadway, Kingston 845-331-3131
Radio Stations
Northern Dutchess Hospital 6511 Springbrook Avenue, Rhinebeck 845-876-3011 St. Francis Hospital & Health Centers 241 North Road, Poughkeepsie 845-483-5000 St. Luke’s Cornwall Hospital 70 Dubois Street, Newburgh 845-561-4400 19 Laurel Avenue, Cornwall 845-534-7711 Vassar Brothers Medical Center 45 Reade Place, Poughkeepsie 845-454-8500
Trains Amtrak Stations: Hudson, Rhinecliff, Poughkeepsie 800-872-7245 Metro-North Railroad Stations: Poughkeepsie, New Hamburg, Beacon, Breakneck Ridge, Cold Spring, Garrison 800-METRO-INFO
Buses Adirondack Trailways 800-858-8555 Dutchess County Loop Bus System 845-485-4690
Clear Channel Radio of the Hudson Valley 92.1 Lite FM, soft adult contemporary Star 93.3, hot adult contemporary Cruisin’ 93.5, oldies 96.1 Kiss FM, contemporary hit radio 98.5 Lite FM, soft adult contemporary 107.3 / 99.3 WRWD, country 1230 AM WHUC, adult standards 1370 AM WELG, adult standards 1450 AM WKIP, news talk Cumulus Broadcasting 101.5 WPDH, classic rock Mix 97.7 WCZX, adult contemporary 92.7 / 96.9 WRRV, alternative rock 94.3 / 97.3 WKXP / WZAD The Wolf, country 1490 AM WKNY adult contemporary 1340/ 1390 AM Radio Disney, kid-friendly WAMC: Northeast Public Radio 90.3 FM Albany 103.9 FM Beacon 96.5 FM Ellenville 102.1 FM Highland 97.1 FM Hudson 90.9 FM Kingston 107.7 FM Newburgh WDST Radio Woodstock World Class Rock, contemporary alternative, reggae, acoustic 100.1 FM Woodstock 106.5 FM Beacon 102.3 FM Newburgh 106.3 FM Poughkeepsie WKZE: Musical Diversity Americana, blues, roots, world music 98.1 FM
Pine Hill Trailways 800-776-7548 Ulster County Area Transit (UCAT) New Paltz Loop; Ulster-Poughkeepsie Link
Tourism Information
845-340-3333
Columbia County Tourism 401 State Street, Hudson 800-724-1846
Taxis
Dutchess County Tourism Ste. Q-17, 3 Neptune Road, Poughkeepsie 800-445-3131
Lee’s Taxi Shuttling Service 845-255-2870 Joey’s Taxi and Transportation 845-255-8294; 845-691-5639
Greene County Tourism 700 Route 23B, Leeds 518-943-3223
New Paltz Taxi, Inc. 845-255-1550
Orange County Tourism 124 Main Street, Goshen 845-615-3860
Yellow Cab Albany 518-434-2222 Poughkeepsie 845-471-1100
Ulster County Tourism 10 Westbrook Lane, Kingston 800-342-5826 SOJOURN SPRING / SUMMER 2010 39
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THE NEW PALTZ REGIONAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
Frost Valley YMCA Enjoy the Catskill Mountain High Peaks
Families Groups Teambuilding
(845) 985-2291 info@frostvalley.org
FrostValley.org
2000 Frost Valley Road Claryville, NY 12725
Mohonk Mountain House A Victorian Castle. An award-winning spa. Right on your doorstep.
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SPECIAL RATES FOR . . .
Day Spa packages . Golf and meal packages . Romantic getaways . Family getaways
Activities include hiking, horseback riding, carriage rides, boating, golf, tennis, and so much more! For more information, please call 866.666.3148 www.mohonk.com 1000 Mountain Rest Road New Paltz, New York 12561