Church of the Open Sky

PADDLE SPORTS SPECIAL GREENLAND, MEXICO, IDAHO

Plus Italy, ‘Fear’, great pics, gear reviews * NO RELIGIOUS CONTENT

Image: Elli Magnusson

contents 3. About Us 5. Intro 6. Mother Nature – Naked ski touring in Greenland

20. EXPOSING YOURSELF

40. no going back rafting in Idaho

44. fear 50. going big interview with big wave surfer Gabe Davies

via ferrata in Italy

54. IN THE PICTURE

26. Simple Pleasures

Photo Gallery

62. touchscreen travels 65. gear reviews 80. room with a view

sea kayaking in Greenland

35. burnt offerings sea kayaking in Mexico

Lovely cover shot courtesy of Elli Magnusson

6 20 40 50

26

WELCOME TO THE CHURCH Thanks for taking the time to take a look at Church of the Open Sky. First off, let’s get the title out of the way.

We’ve taken it from a phrase used by pioneering Hawaiian surfer Tom Blake (1902 – 1994) to describe the outdoor playground that is a fundamental aspect of our lives and our sense of identity and wellbeing.

Amongst his many achievements Tom invented the hollow surfboard,

the surfboard fin and the sailboard and was also an accomplished contest surfer and all-round waterman. His actual phrase was ‘The blessed church of the open sky’ but that would have been too long for a magazine title…

What we hope your visits to the Church will provide are eclectic, unusual and inspiring adventure travel features undertaken (on the whole) by ordinary dudes whose lives revolve around ‘the outdoor life’, be that surfing, skiing, hiking

Alf

The editor of the Church of the Open Sky is Alf Alderson (www.alfalderson.co.uk), an award winning adventure travel writer and author who has contributed to a huge range of newspapers, magazines and websites around the world.

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Pete

The designer of ‘the Church’ is Pete Roberts of Globe Orange (www.globeorange.com), a highly respected and innovative website development company. As well as surfing the internet Pete also surfs real waves, rides real snow and cycles read roads.

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or just undertaking a funky road trip across some wild corner of the globe.

We’ll also be reviewing the best outdoor gear, cool places to stay, hip joints to dine in, good books to read and loads of other stuff to make your indoor life nearly as much fun as your outdoor life.

Well, maybe…

Elli

Our Nordic correspondent is Icelander Elli Thor Magnusson. Elli is based in his home country where he works as a freelance photographer focusing (literally) on outdoor adventure sports

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Paul

Our resident ski dude is Paul Garner, a founder and director of The Development Centre (TDC), based in Val d’Isere France.

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christian

Our North America correspondent is Christian Williams. He currently specialises in Canada, Germany and Scotland, though he’s written extensively on destinations in Austria, Spain and the USA too. He divides his time between Québec and Scotland.

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daniel

Joining the Church’s contributors this issue is Daniel Wildey; you’ll see quite a bit of his work throughout the mag. Daniel is primarily a photographer, specialising in adventure, travel and hotels; based in the Lake District he has no shortage of subjects, and has worked with many well-known outdoor brands.

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introduction GOOD THINGS I’m just back from Les Deux Alpes where amongst other things I watched several hundred crazy people take part in the appropriately named Mountain of Hell downhill mountain bike race; I rode the resort’s truly brilliant mountain bike trails; I skied on the resort’s glacier in 30c temperatures (sweet); I paraglided over the edge of the spectacular Ecrins National Park; and I went white water rafting down a refreshingly glacial river.

This was all in the space of two days, and afterwards as I recovered from my exertions back home it occurred to me how ingenious humans are when it comes to entertaining themselves in the 21st century.

Fifty years ago the only outdoor recreation at Les Deux Alpes would have been a bit of skiing and some hiking. Today there are more things to do here than you can shake a stick at.

And whilst the hair shirt wearing eco warriors would

folllow us on facebook image: Rupert Fowler

complain that the infrastructure required to do all this is bad for the environment, surely giving people the opportunity to have more fun than is decent in the mountains can only be good in the overall scheme of things.

For if you’re enjoying your trip to the mountains (or coast, lake, river, desert, whatever, wherever…) you’re more likely to develop an appreciation for that environment and be keen to protect similar developed and undeveloped regions.

Put in the means of allowing people to appreciate nature and they’re more likely to protect and defend it.

Keep them out and they’re not likely to care about it.

I’m not suggesting rampant development in all the wild corners of the world, mind – just suggesting that skiing, surfing, hiking, biking and all the rest help you develop an empathy for the great outdoors that can only be a GOOD THING. Alf Alderson, Editor

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Mother Nature – Naked Earlier this year our Icelandic correspondent Elli Magnusson went ski touring in East Greenland. Here’s his diary of the adventure – and the pics are all his too

Saturday 19th April 2013 Apusiaajik Glacier, East Greenland Woke at eight. The storm seems to have calmed down.

I finish my book and start on another one. Everything is now wet inside the tent and we can’t seem to muster up the energy to get up until 10:30. By then ‘the Coffin’ is buried to the top by snow.

I have to dig myself out and only with my arm fully stretched can I manage to poke through the snow with the tip of my shovel blade. Fresh air! The wind has completely died down and although it’s still snowing, I can see patches of blue peeking through the clouds.

After a quick breakfast we start walking at 12:30 heading for the Home Bowl, which we have been saving for a short day like this. On the way there the sun penetrates through the clouds and suddenly the whole scenery changes. It’s like Mother Nature has stepped out naked from the shower. She’s fresh, with a new coat of snow. A clean slate. You can almost smell her.

Ten months ago me and my friend Gardar had been in East Greenland on a nine-day sea kayaking trip.

Sitting in our kayaks, staring at all these mountains every day, we decided we had to come back in winter and ski some of them. It would be a shame not to.

Being as disorganized as I am and with a short attention span to boot I’d forgotten about it a couple of weeks after I came back to Iceland. Gaddi, being of sterner stuff, calls me in February having sorted out flights, a group of keen friends to go and dates for departure. An opportunity not to be missed.

High calorie intake Friday 12th April, 2013 Reykjavik, Iceland It’s 9am and we still have to plan, pack, buy and air freight 180 servings of food before 4pm today. Not to mention buying high velocity slugs for the shotgun, which I still need to get an international gun passport for.

We are off to Greenland tomorrow and I have not packed a single piece of equipment. This is what happens when a group of four highly trained mountain guides plus a photographer and a lumberjack plan an eleven-day ski/snowboard expedition to a remote glacier in East Greenland. It’s not exactly executed with military like precision.

Chris from Canada is busy buying a used bus for his new rafting company; Alli is guiding a glacier trip and Lonny the lumberjack is making aluminium snow pegs for the large kitchen tent. That means the whole responsibility of us not starving to death falls on me, Gaddi and Andreas. Well, we’ll just buy plenty of bacon and meat. Keep those calories up in the high digits.

We end up making it to the Air Iceland cargo office ten minutes before they close up shop. There they inform us that due to the high number of passengers on this plane all our equipment may not make it on board.

The rest will come with the next plane.

“When is the next plane?” “ On Wednesday…”

Shit! The thought of spending four extra days in Kulusukk, a village of about 200 inhabitants, was not on the top of our to-do list.

“Many, many…”

Saturday 13th April, 2013 Reykjavik-Kulusukk Stepping out of the plane in Kulusukk and onto the gravel runway my eyes take a few seconds to adjust to the brilliant sunshine. Its t-shirt weather out here.

Coming from Iceland it always amazes me how good the weather in Greenland is…until it turns bad.

Now starts the anxious wait to see if all our equipment made it. After twenty minutes we see a hand-pulled trolley being wheeled out the back and count six barrels in there. We are safe!

Gideon the local snowmobile airport shuttle man is waiting outside the airport with his 1100 cc snowmobile and a big trailer attached to it. It takes him roughly 30-minutes to shuttle one passenger and a full trailer over the frozen fjord and up onto Apusiaajik Glacier.

I catch the second ride to the glacier. Half-an-hour later me and Gaddi watch Gideon’s snowmobile turn into a tiny black speck out on the horizon and it all sinks in. We are finally there.

We unpack the snow saws and shovels and start digging holes and building walls for the tents. Still giddy with excitement I never manage more than a couple of blocks of ice before my short attention span breaks and the mind turns to counting skiable lines in the vicinity of our camp site.

The last conversation we have with Gideon before he turns his snowmobile back to Kulusukk has us asking in our crappy Danish: “Er det noget isbjörner her nu?” to which Gideon replies: “Ja det er mange, mange”.

Roughly translating to: “Are there many polar bears here now?” “ Yes there are many, many”.

With all the digging to do before dark, this thought quickly goes to the back of my mind, only to return repeatedly after dark for the rest of the trip.

For the first five days of the trip we were as lucky as you can be with the weather. Every day we woke up to the same brilliant sunshine, no clouds and no wind.

We skied most of the peaks in the vicinity of our camp, finding decent snow on almost every run.

Sunday 14th April, 2013 Building Camp City.

We wake up to the same sunshine as the day before.

It still boggles the mind to step out of the tent and take in the surroundings. We continue to build tent city, fix stoves and listen to full blast soul music wearing only our t-shirts.

Sawing down two layers of glacial ice is hard work, especially with six “engineers” supervising the job.

Before dark some of the guys go out for a quick ski recon, returning with tales of terrible, hard, windblown snow.

With the powerful Arctic sun still going strong for the third day in a row and sweat pouring down my face, I finish the last stretch up to the glacier plateau before taking a break and stripping down to my base layer.

We settle on a distinctive high peak at the far end of the plateau as the first objective. It does not look too promising on the way up, with windblown snow and hard ice – in fact we end up taking our skis and snowboards off for the last steep hike to the top.

Frozen Planet Monday 15th April, 2013 Apusiaajik Glacier, East Greenland After a breakfast of bacon and coffee we head out for the first day of proper skiing. As soon as I start up the gentle slope leading to the high glacier plateau I start cursing my heavy backpack. Glacier rescue gear, crampons, ice axe, water, Leatherman, down jacket, fleece jacket, lunch, gps, binding tool, extra screws for the bindings, duct tape, 200mm lens, 24mm lens, 50mm lens, extra batteries, and finally the tank like 1-Dx around my neck. Not exactly traveling light (I end up leaving half of the stuff at camp the following day).Butat least I’m not carrying the shotgun on my back like Lonny.

That first view from the summit is insane. No photo could ever do it justice. Looking east towards the North Atlantic you can see the tiny houses of Kulusukk juxtaposed with big, oil tanker sized icebergs that are lodged in the pack ice.

To the west, endless rows of cream coated mountains all the way to the Greenland Ice Cap. The frozen planet.

Mountains so unbelievably beautiful and inviting yet so inhospitable. I can’t imagine the reality of living here 50 or 100 years ago. Bear Grylls wouldn’t last week!

But enough with the dramatics. After 10 minutes of

hysterics and photographs and celebratory sips of Famous Grouse our attention turns to finding a way down - one that does not include skiing on shitty snow.

snow. It ends up being much smaller than the Shark Fin and a hassle to get the top without major rope work.

We manage to find some good snow on the south facing slope of the summit and ski down to the glacier plateau. Next up is a steep boot pack up a couloir that has been basking in the sun and getting soft the whole day. We have a good run down to base camp, just in time to dry our boots and skins and catch the last rays of the sun before it disappears behind the mountains.

Lonny manages to find a way onto the face just below the summit. It means a ‘must make’ sideways dropin, with a traverse above a cliff. The butterflies were flapping on that one, but it all turned out fine.

Butterflies Tuesday 16th April, 2013 The Shark Fin Same brilliant sunshine and no wind. We head north along the glacier to a distinctive shark fin shaped peak that looks like the highest mountain in the area. ‘We opt for another peak that we are quite sure has better

At the bottom we watch Chris and Andreas, who decided to give Shark Fin a go instead, dropping in on the south facing side of the shark, sending sprays of what looks like pure powder snow up in the air on every turn…

Getting greedy

calculations it hasn’t snowed in this area for almost two weeks?

Wednesday 17th April, 2013

Whatever it is, it’s working for me. At the summit I start to get greedy, speculating how nice it would be if we would get a big dump of snow and could ski powder all the way to camp. You should be careful what you wish for.

Guess what? Sunshine and no wind. This is getting ridiculous.

We rope up in two teams to cross the glacier plateau before leaving the ropes once we get to steeper ground. For a full hour we have a view of the south face of the Shark Fin and Chris and Andreas’s enticing tracks down it from the day before. Talk about rubbing it in.

Finally we cross a small icy ridge and catch a glimpse of the summit we’re aiming for. It’s not as majestic as Shark Fin, but it’s definitely higher. We take of our split-boards and skis and start boot packing up.

With every step the snow gets better and better.

The last 200 metres we are wading through powder almost groin deep. How can this be, according to our

This turns out to be the sweetest run so far, with proper powder all the way down to where we took our ropes off. We go for another peak before heading back to base camp for our routine of drying stuff and enjoying a few sips of Japanese Whiskey for an hour or so before the sun sets.

That evening we get a weather forecast sent to our satellite phone, predicting one more day of possible skiing before a big storm front coming in with high winds and snowfall.

This was to be the end of our lucky streak with the weather. The rest of the trip would be characterized by snowstorms, with the occasional day or half-day of skiing in between.

Where’s the shotgun?

Thursday 18th April, 2013 Long Grouse Couloir and start of snow storm We wake up to a grey morning. The first day without sunshine. We round a corner and step into a totally unexplored valley, with new potential runs around every corner. Towards the ice cap big dark clouds are gathering and moving closer and closer with every hour. Around noon it starts snowing and although we are sheltered in this narrow valley, we can see the wind blowing trails of spindrift from the mountain tops.

A group meeting is held. We know that a new weather front is coming in and that it’s only going to get worse as the day progresses. There is a short discussion about ‘piteraq’ storms [resulting from a cold Katabatic wind which originates on the Greenlandic icecap and sweeps down to the east coast] and taking unnecessary risks out here in the middle of nowhere.

Half of the group decides to ski back down to the valley and head to camp, while Chris, Andreas and me decide to go for what seems to be a short and steep couloir.

Half-an-hour later we are at the mouth of the couloir and it turns out to be a lot longer and steeper than it looked from below. With ice axe in one hand and a ski pole in the other we start up. This is steep stuff.

The split board and the heavy backpack do their best to pull me backwards and away from the mountain, meaning a tumble all the way down to the glacier.

The good news is that being so narrow and sheltered from the wind this couloir is full of good snow and it seems to be quite stable. But it just keeps on going.

Superhuman Chris stays out in front most of the way, while me and Andreas take turns hiding behind big ledges or rocks in case something might go off.

Finally when I’m closing in on the top, lost in my own thoughts, out of nowhere a big white grouse pops out from behind a rock right above my head and lets out a big nasty burp. I almost lose my balance, barely managing to hang on while it gracefully glides down to the glacier below. I can see the headlines: “Man killed by a Greenlandic Killer Grouse”. Talk about a shitty way to go.

The “top” turns out to be a two meter wide ledge, with the grouse couloir on one side and a steep icy face on the other. With the weather getting worse by the minute, we share one cup of tea, radio the other guys and then have some world class couloir skiing all the way down to the valley. On the way back to camp the weather is now in the early stages of a snow blizzard. A thought suddenly occurs me. We don’t have the shotgun with us, It went with the other guys back to camp. This is followed with contemplations about how easily a polar bear might sneak up on you in the middle of a white out. I almost do a sprint back to camp.

Mission Impossible Friday 19th April, 2013 Storm Day It was full on snow storm during the night and my first thought when I wake up is whether or not the kitchen tent is still standing. Down here in the bunker we’ve built around our sleeping tents it doesn’t feel so bad, but as soon as I worm my way out of the tent and stand up the full force of the storm can be felt.

We need a gps just to walk the short distance to the kitchen tent. Luckily it’s still there. We spend the day reading and eating and always walking in groups between the kitchen and sleeping tents.

After about five hours of laying in bed I really start envying the other guys of their big fancy North Face tents. Me and Alli share a tent we have now dubbed “The Coffin”, an old two person glacier tent I inherited (stole) from my old man.

Although being of sturdy construction and materials, it’s somewhat lacking in space and breathability. As the day progresses the snow piles higher and higher

and the walls start closing in on the coffin. Going out to dig up the tent is a major undertaking. We put it off until the snow is so high we can’t hear the sound of the wind anymore.

Then it’s all the confusion of trying to squeeze into down jackets, frozen boots, various layers, goggles, balaclavas and waterproof jackets. Outside the spindrift penetrates everything and as hard as we try to get back into the tent and take our clothes off without getting any snow or moisture in, its mission impossible.

The following day the storm broke around noon. After breakfast and digging out our tents, we are anxious to head out and do some skiing.

“Crack!”

Saturday 20th of April, 2013 Home Bowl The home bowl is full of new snow and we choose a ridge on the far side to skin up. We then have to traverse under some big cliffs where there has been a pretty big snow buildup. I start arguing with myself: “This snow doesn’t feel right. Well nobody else is talking about it, stop being a pussy. They’re all guides for Christ sakes. Chris even conducts avalanche control back home in Canada”.

Luckily Gaddi starts voicing the same concerns. We dig a pit and after three taps on the shovel the column goes down. This can’t be right, let’s try it again. Two taps and it goes down again. I guess we are not skiing today… Just as we come to this conclusion the sun disappears behind the clouds.

We decide to ski down the same way we came up, which we judge to be the safest option. Andreas is the first one to go and after four turns there is a loud crack and the whole bowl comes crashing down in a big rumble.

Every eye is on him as he skis straight to the safe spot. When the noise settles down Andreas is still there, and we see that the avalanche broke about ten metres below his third turn. Fuck…

Back down on the glacier with my heart rate back to normal, I have a full view of the avalanche. The fault line covers the whole bowl, about 300 metres wide. I try not to think about what could have happened had we not decided to turn back.

We ski the short flat slope above the camp as a consolation prize. Back at camp Chris brings out his hidden stash of beer.

Skiing in North Korea Sunday 21st of April 2013 Storm day Snow storm started again during the night. I woke up at 10am and had to dig up one metre to get out of the tent. Spent most of the day and evening in the kitchen tent. Serious talks about Dennis Rodman, Kim Jong Un and if there is a nuclear war going on in North Korea. “I heard that there is some good skiing in North Korea” Gaddi says. Well Gaddi, I won’t join you on that one brother.

We spend an hour digging up the tents before going to sleep, they fill up with snow almost as fast as we dig. Everything is now soggy and wet in the tent. I hope my cameras are ok.

That evening we had the weather forecast sent to our satellite phone. It was now predicting good weather on Monday, with Tuesday being a bit sketchy. We had originally planned for the snowmobile to pick us up on Tuesday, with our flights to Iceland leaving on Wednesday. If this weather forecast sticks we would be shit out of luck.

We all wanted to get one more day of skiing so this discussion went back and forth for some time, but with the unstable snowpack in the area and prior engagements back home we finally decided on calling Gideon and having him come pick us up one day early.

Monday 22nd of April 2013 Walk back to Kulusuk We wake up to sunshine. A nice change. After breakfast we decide we should send just one person with all our equipment back to Kulusuk on the snowmobile. The rest of us will walk back to save money on the shuttle trips.

We watch Gideon and Gaddi disappear and then hike up the short slope above where our camp used to be.

It’s the same brilliant sunshine we had for the first five days. This is not making it any easier to leave. Sun and powder everywhere. I keep reminding myself that all this new snow is as unstable as Britney Spears circa 2007.

We ski this perfect snow down the glacier and all

the way to the frozen fjord below, our last turns in Greenland. On the long walk back to Kulusuk we keep turning our heads back towards our base camp.

Not to worry, there is plenty of stuff left to ski here; we will return...

Elli Thor Magnusson VISIT WEBSITE

EXPOSING YOURSELF Climber Daniel Wildey surprises himself with just how much of a kick you can get on a via ferrata

Dangling off half an inch of metal cable while the first light of day burned away the clouds hundreds of metres below us, this didn’t feel like the soft option.

A two hour walk-in from the Passo Pordoi in the dark and in total fog hadn’t been the most thrilling start.

But as we reached the start of the Via Della Trincee the fog sank deep into the valleys as if unveiling

the very essence of via ferrata.

The hulk of the Marmolada, the Dolomites’ highest peak, rose above the cloud to the south, the Portavescovo ridge undulated away to the west and across the depths of the Livinallongo Valley the Sella Massif squatted on top of the meadows like a giant’s fortress.

The naysayers had missed the point.

Before my via ferrata adventure, some climbers I know had scoffed and scorned about how it isn’t

‘real’ climbing. They’re right that it isn’t technically very difficult, in the way that say, bouldering can be.

But then spending years training to string six moves together and progress to maybe five feet off the ground isn’t my idea of an adventure. So I guess it depends on what you want from a climbing experience. Does anyone start climbing out of a desire to really push their finger strength to the limit….?

CHEATING? WHO CARES… It’s always been self-evident to me that outdoor sports are loved because they are, well, outdoors.

Via ferrate gives you the chance to experience the outdoors in a unique way - to gain access to the big walls and peaks that otherwise are the preserve of experienced climbers. So you don’t need the haul-bags full of gear, the hours of rope work, and the delicate technique of a boulder-ballerina – if it’s cheating, I don’t care.

Of course the mountains of the Dolomites are mountains of distinction, and the desire to get in amongst them soon tramples on questions of climbing ethics.

Trincee itself is a jagged ridge, more dangerous looking than the devil’s razor, towering over the village of Arabba. But from there you see a sculpture park of pinnacles and towers, impossibly high walls jutting straight from the foothills, and all a fiery red in the light of the sunrise.

And it was straight up one of these walls that we began in the airy freshness of dawn that you

only find in the mountains. As a climber I’d been cavalier about the technicality, and on the very first section I realised that walking boots on blank walls present their own challenges; glorified hiking it is not!

But as I topped out on the first pinnacle the real challenge hit me with dizzying force. You might climb the hardest of sport routes and do one-finger pull-ups but there’s an element to via ferrate that training and technique cannot prepare you for: exposure.

ADRENALINE RUSH With the cloud inversion dissipating far below and glimpses of the valley floor beyond, with the sky opening wide after being hemmed in in the valley and the previously soaring peaks coming level with my feet, I began to wonder at the precariousness of my position.

It is nothing like climbing at the crag; physically much easier, but psychologically so remote. I knew I wasn’t going to fall, I knew I couldn’t fall, but being surrounded by so much space, above and below, can sometimes make your head swim.

It’s a feeling you don’t often

get when climbing in the UK – I remember a similar rush from summiting the hills of the Peak District when I was young, but you get older and maybe bolder and the adrenaline becomes more stubborn.

Climbing is usually methodical, ponderous and slow, it gives me immense personal satisfaction and an adrenaline rush borne of pure fear. Via ferrate is climbing unleashed: it is fast paced, covering distance and varied terrain. So it offers what other climbing doesn’t; that pure childish joy of running free and unbridled in nature, and it’s a special kind of exhilarating.

Perhaps best of all, via ferrate is accessible. I’m a sucker for

collecting gear, for learning techniques, for making new goals, but sometimes we get bogged down in the seriousness of our pursuits. All you need to climb a via ferrata is a harness, a helmet and a set of tails; it’s good to be reminded that being outdoors should be liberating and fun.

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SIMPLE PLEASURES

Nige Robinson leaves the hubbub of modern life behind on a sea kayaking expedition to north-west Greenland.

As I unzipped the tent door the expanse of ice was still there.

In the foreground lay small slushy ice that had grouped together with smaller icebergs in the night to form a crusty surface on the sea; beyond this the icebergs grew up to 100 metres igh and in the distance an unnamed glacier slipped down off the great expanse of the Greenland icecap.

We had come herefor the opportunity to kayak through ice and gaze at the many shapes and sizes of iceberg.

It was the end of July; our trip had begun ten days before and the preparation twelve months before that.

Myself, Olly and Sid were three experienced kayakers and coaches from Wales who had decided to make the pilgrimage to Greenland, the home of the kayak.

The area we had chosen was Upernavik in NW Greenland to attempt to circumnavigate the islands ofQaersorssuaq and Nutarmiut, a distance of approximately 260 kilometres. On arrival Itook a long look at our kayaks and then at the pile of kit, “No way is that all going to fit into three eighteen-foot kayaks� I thought.

We were to spend three weeks unsupported carrying food and relying on wood fires to top up our small ration of stove fuel and hopefully the occasional fish to add to our basic menu. But after much grunting, persuasion, liberal use of dry bags and half a day of packing it was done.

ON OUR WAY

We took a few tentative strokes and slipped away from the harbour - the trip had begun and we looked forward to what the next three weeks would hold.

The weather was kind and so hot that we wondered why we had packed down jackets and thick down sleeping bags; we would find out soon enough though.

A short first day brought us to our first campsite, with no grass and no wood. But there before us were some of the highest sea cliffs I had ever seen, the largest 900 metres straight from the sea to the glaciated summit.

One o’clock in the morning on our second night we awoke to loud gusts and looking out the sea indicated force 6-7 winds.

We had decided to pitch camp

on a high col between two fiords for the inspirational views (and it seemed the best place to avoid the attention of the thirsty mosquitoes). However it also afforded little shelter.

The barometer was dropping and sleep seemed unlikely so three lycra clad bodies hastily downed tent and re-pitched closer to the sea, away from the worst gusts.

Thirty hours later after much sleep, tea drinking and reading we could venture back on the water.

One week in we had completely attuned to our new surroundings; we awoke to the smell of fresh coffee as Olly fired up the stovetop espresso machine. Muesli again for breakfast although as far as I’m concerned no matter how you liven it up with nuts dried fruit or honey it still is just rabbit food but healthy and filling all the same.

It was always a pleasure to get on the water, muscles complaining at first but after an hour enjoying the steady pace. There seemed to be an unwritten agreement that very little conversation would take place until it was time to discuss where to land for lunch.

This time was invaluable to enjoy the slow uncluttering of the brain, it’s incredible how much shit seems to blur clear thoughts when back in the hubbub of home/work/ real life.

Stopping points seemed to be as obvious as they would have been thousands of years ago judging by the circular ancient stone and turf houses that we would find along with piles of rocks that would indicate the final resting place of the occupants. Would they have enjoyed the endless views as we had?

Our camping routine was the same every day - unload, decide on a place for the tent then use another site, pitch the tent and lift the kayaks above the tide mark.And how pleasant the simple task of finding, chopping and burning wood.

We slipped along the east side of Qaersorssuaq and below the larger island of Nutarmiut before heading north for our long awaited appointment with the ice. The joy of Romany living is looking forward to a different campsite each night with new views and new places to stretch the legs .

Tonight’s was a little different as we entered the little wooden hunter’s hut where a sleeping shelf provided enough space for three and we could stand up to dress. The walls were coated with soot from an old diesel stove; past occupants had signed their names and left their candles.

CLIMBING HIGH “Below!” Sid cried out; we hugged the rock face as a person-sized boulder flew past us, the smell of cordite filling our nostrils as it hit the ledge below.

We had decided to bring climbing equipment with us as well, as if we didn’t have enough to carry.

The rock in this area is granite ranging from grey to crimson in colour and despite the occasional loose boulder it provided excellent opportunities for climbing some new routes.

The lofty sea cliffs provided little access from the sea itself and would have needed several days to scale them, so we searched out some smaller crags of around 300 metres which gave us the opportunity to take welcome days off from paddling and stretch our legs.

Dinner time always brought with it a sense of excitement - what would be in the next food bag?

We’d long forgotten what had been packed in the unmarked bags. Meat balls, stew maybe rice

or pasta and even mashed potato on some days. The next day’s lunch would alsobe handed out, mackerel fillets, noodles/pasta in a mug, healthy option with only 2% fat? Or the best dried sausage and cheese. It felt like Christmas every day.

Approaching the north end of Nutarmiut our ten-year-old map gave our position as being actually under thick ice; the receding glaciers meant that we were literally in unmapped territory.

What we thought were headlands turned out to be islands, the sea grew harder to paddle through as the ice closed in and our route was defined by leads in the ice. We pulled up on the east of Umanaq Island and made camp on a granite ledge overlooking the ice fiord and glaciers of the Greenland ice cap atour furthest position north - 72 degrees 50 minutes.

We enjoyed the time spent in the ice and even saw a rare seal, which was cautious as normally other humans tend to shoot at them, but before long it was time to head south again and gradually the ice released us from its grasp.

SIMPLE PLEASURES

Today I was glad of my thick down sleeping bag; it had started normal enough, breakfast, break camp and pack. The weather was grey with a light breeze as we paddled gently under another skyscraper of a cliff, as we crossed the bay towards Agparssuit headland the white horses moved from a scattering to more frequent but it was good to paddle in a lively sea.

Soon after the spray began to fly and the wind tugged at the paddle. Was it just the headland accelerating the wind? The sea began to lump up in a uniform swell and we’d have two more hours of this to reach the headland.

Yes we probably could have made it but decisions have to be made remembering the wilderness you are in. We turned downwind to where we knew there was more shelter and hoped for an easy landing.

No sooner had we turned than the wind increased and surfed us pleasantly towards a beach. Cold and damp and with the rain rattling the flysheet and the surf pounding the beach I curled up in my bag of feathers.

The next morning dawned fine and clear and we ventured once again for the headland. This time we were met not by the wind but by flocks of fulmar gliding between the remnants of the swell, wing tips almost clipping the sea, followed by dark-eyed kittiwakes.

We celebrated our first circumnavigation of Nutarmiut at a wonderful campsite with all the amenities you could hope, easy access, flat ground for the tent,ample wood and running water, we even had a table courtesy of an old cable drum – aah, the simple life.

And even better it was bannock bread night; we brought with us flour and ingredients for baking the fresh bread essential on an

extended trip. Tonight’s recipe was sweetened with raisins saved from this morning’s rabbit food – delicious.

Left with only two-day’s worth of food and little fuel we needed to make the decision to undertake an exposed 26km route along the western side of Sanderson’s Hope. The barometer was steady, wind slight and the small swell indicated we were now back on the open sea.

There would be nowhere to land for the next four hours and to the west open ocean all the way to Baffin Island. It was this or make the long arduous trip back around the north of the island. We need not have worried and were rewarded with spectacular views of sheer cliffs and plunging waterfalls. The swell built to allow some careful playing in the surging sea, and we paddled on feeling very small within this rugged environment.

By now the routine was intuitive and we settled down to camp

looking out over the sheer thousand-metre granite walls of Sanderson’s Hope. However, a four in the morning we heard sniffing and scratching outside of the tent; could it be a polar bear?

We carried a gun but had become complacent and it was still in its dry bag outside. It sounded very small for a bear - perhaps some of the huskies had swum over from the nearby dog island their hungry home for the summer months?

Someone had to look out as we heard several items being dragged across the rocks, and undoing the zip we saw four of the cutest looking arctic fox cubs.

They fought, tumbled and sniffed around the tent as we watched, however when they decided to steal Olly’s socks the game was over.

Eventually the three weeks were over. We’d made two island

circumnavigations and climbed six new routes, all of it in the heart of exceptional kayaking scenery.

And perhaps more importantly we had stayed friends and immersed ourselves in the simple pleasures that expeditioning by sea kayak provides.

KIT LIST Good well maintained gear is important on a committing expedition. We were given for the trip P&H Scorpio kayaks which proved excellent. We chose plastic as most landings were tricky with heavily laden kayaks and they were big enough to take all the kit whilst remaining manoeuvrable and fast; the rudder system proved very robust and reliable.

Palm equipment provided hard wearing dry suits (worn almost continuously for 15 days), buoyancy aids and spray decks.

Their range of dry bags in various sizes meant that gear could be packed in all the nooks and crannies and stayed dry.

sizes meant that gear could be packed in all the nooks and crannies and stayed dry.

Mountain Equipment provided a range of warm and windproof shells which stood up to the range of weather and temperatures and the all important sleeping bag which was always welcome at the end of a hard day.

Check out Nige and Olly’s DVD ‘Expedition Skills’ (Rock and Sea Productions) which gives you all the knowledge you need to head off on an expedition like this.

Mountain Equipment provided a range of warm and windproof shells which stood up to the range of weather and temperatures and the all important sleeping bag which was always welcome at the end of a hard day.

Check out Nige and Olly’s DVD ‘Expedition Skills’ (Rock and Sea Productions) which gives you all the knowledge you need to head off on an expedition like this. KIT LIST Good well maintained gear is important on a committing expedition. We were given for the trip P&H Scorpio kayaks which proved excellent. We chose plastic as most landings were tricky with heavily laden kayaks and they were big enough to take all the kit whilst remaining manoeuvrable and fast; the rudder system proved very robust and reliable.

Palm equipment provided hard wearing dry suits (worn almost continuously for 15 days), buoyancy aids and spray decks.

Photos: Nige, Olly Sanders and Sid Sinfield Their range of dry bags in various

KIT LIST

Good well maintained gear is important on a committing expedition. We were given for the trip P&H Scorpio kayaks which proved excellent. We chose plastic as most landings were tricky with heavily laden kayaks and they were big enough to take all the kit whilst remaining manoeuvrable and fast; the rudder system proved very robust and reliable.

Check out Nige and Olly’s DVD ‘Expedition Skills’ (Rock and Sea Productions) which gives you all the knowledge you need to head off on an expedition like this.

Sea Kayak Guides

Nige and Olly’s DVD

Nige Robinson

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Palm equipment provided hard wearing dry suits (worn almost continuously for 15 days), buoyancy aids and spray decks.

Their range of dry bags in various sizes meant that gear could be packed in all the nooks and crannies and stayed dry.

Mountain Equipment provided a range of warm and windproof shells which stood up to the range of weather and temperatures and the all important sleeping bag which was always welcome at the end of a hard day.

BURNT OFFERINGS

Alf Alderson points his kayak in the direction of Mexico’s Sea of Cortez

For the kind of adventure I was embarking on, a kayak was the only way to go – not only can it get into places where nothing else can, any idiot can use one.

Well, I’ll qualify that – any idiot can use one in calm conditions.

Dealing with white water rapids is another matter altogether and something best left to the experts.

There were no real experts on our mini-expedition though, just a mixed group of keen outdoor types from different corners of the globe who were being guided around the Mexican desert islands of Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida in one of the least-known but most fascinating seas on Earth.

The Sea of Cortez separates Mexico’s Baja Peninsula from the mainland, and despite its modest size (700 miles long with an average width of 93 miles) it’s

biologically the richest body of water on the planet – but more of that later.

DESERT ISLANDS

It’s very warm both in and out of the water even in winter, and it rarely rains in this part of the world, which means that paddling a kayak around desert islands during the day and camping on their beaches at night is easy.

OK, if you’re not used to physical exercise you might find the paddling a bit of a strain at first, but anyone with a reasonable level of fitness will soon get literally into the swing of things.

Kayaking technique is easily picked up and once a kayak is in motion it actually takes relatively little effort to keep it going; your biggest problem is likely to be keeping it in a straight line as most people have one arm stronger than the other, which results in a tendency to veer off in one direction, but you soon learn to

compensate for this.

We’d set off on our adventure from the small city of La Paz, a pleasant little coastal metropolis in south eastern Baja which is the base for Baja Outdoor Activities who were guiding us on our twoday adventure. Getting out to the islands you have a choice of paddling your kayak from the mainland across a two-mile strait to the southern tip of Espiritu Santo, or doing it the easy way and being taken with your kayak in a panga, or motor boat. This panga, driven by local boatman Javier, then provides back up on the trip, transporting cooking and camping equipment, although if you wish you can take on more self-sufficient voyages where you carry all your own gear – something for the more experienced or masochistic, perhaps.

The Burnt Coast

Our guide Ben, originally from Wales, kept us away from what few tricky ocean currents there were, located the best camping beaches and provided advice on everything from how to use our kayak more efficiently to what fish had just leapt across our bows.

Once you arrive at the islands the schedule for each day is simple – wake, paddle, eat/drink beer, sleep, repeat.

Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida

are uninhabited, volcanic masses rising out of the Sea of Cortez in a jumble of red and black sun blasted crags interspersed with dazzling white sandy beaches. As soon as we’d glided ashore after a day in our kayaks the first thing everyone did was to leap into the translucent turquoise waters and dive down amongst the corals and neon-bright fish.

Here you’re in a totally elemental landscape – blue sea, bluer sky, baked landscapes and dusty

green cacti which are the only real vegetation. John Steinbeck was entranced by this part of Mexico and described it as ‘the burnt coast’, yet for all the heat and dust it’s not barren. It’s just that almost all the wildlife is under water – and occasionally flying through the air a few feet above it.

SWIMMING WITH SEA LIONS And this is where the advantages of travelling by kayak really become apparent. If you fancy getting to within a few yards of sea lions, sting and manta rays, dolphins, porpoises, and maybe even whale sharks and grey whales, this is the place to be. The same applies if you want to swim amongst them.

At the sea lion colony of Los Islotes, for example, you can slide over the side of your kayak, don a mask and snorkel and go and cavort with sea lion pups.

These fellas are synchronised swimming, surfing and snorkelling all wrapped up in one fun-lovin’

bundle, and some of them will even come and sit on your kayak with you. At the same time you need to watch out for their dads – the bulls weigh several hundred pounds, and whilst it’s extremely unlikely they would attack you it’s not advisable to get too close to them or their harem.

Almost every hour that you’re out on the water some sort of sea life will pop up to surprise you – just after our visit to the sea lions, for instance, we found ourselves surrounded by literally hundreds of small manta rays, leaping out of the water and landing again with

an ungainly smack.

Each day winds down with your shoulders tightening pleasantly from the day’s exercise, your skin tingling from the sun and sea spray, and a cold beer slipping down nicely as you watch the sun sink behind the horizon of the distant mainland. It doesn’t come much simpler than this, and there’s a lot to be said for the simple things in life – especially knowing that at the end of all this hard work you can return to ‘civilisation’ and luxuriate in one of La Paz’ new boutique hotels or spas.

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KAYAKING

The Costa Baja Resort & Spa is the region’s first five-star resort and offers rooms with a choice of ocean, mountain, golf course or marina views, with spa packages from US$249 per night.

For a more intimate appreciation of La Paz, try Posada de las Flores, a Mexican-Colonial style boutique hotel located on the city’s bustling promenade with great sunsets virtually every night. Rooms from US$150 per night.

Baja Outdoor Activities offer bespoke fully supported kayaking trips in the Sea of Cortez. They can also organise other activities such as sea fishing and whale watching.

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All pics courtesy of Baja Outdoor Adventures

NO GOING BACK Alf Alderson hits the white water – literally - in Idaho’s ‘River of No Return’ Wilderness Area

Names become somewhat meaningless when you’re in a wilderness area, so let’s get them over with quickly. The Middle Fork of the Salmon River, down which I was about to bounce for six days, flows through the heart of Idaho’s Frank Church - River of No Return Wilderness Area, the largest Wilderness Area in the USA outside Alaska.

The long-winded name comes from the fact that the region was named for the senator who was instrumental in setting it up in the 1960s; and the additional fact that it’s impossible to paddle back upstream against the various crystal clear rivers flowing through the region.

The first fact is boring; the second is full of high drama – and thankfully the Middle Fork of the Salmon takes after the latter.

Indeed, the Middle Fork ranks high among white-water rafters and kayakers who know about these things, not so much for the ferocity of its rapids or the difficulty of negotiating them as for the constant and regular flow of the water throughout its 100mile length - there are very few areas of ‘slack water’.

WHITEWATER MAELSTROM - NOT

This relative lack of really serious white-water means that the river is accessible to pretty much anyone with a sense of adventure - I was on a six-day trip with a group of Texans all of whom were the wrong side of 40 and not especially fit, but one and all had the adventure of a lifetime.

In addition to the thrills and spills of rafting there’s the very obvious

attraction of the spectacular scenery and wildlife you encounter as you descend from the ‘put-in’ point at 6,000ft-high Boundary Creek to the ‘take out’, 3,000ft lower down at the confluence with the main Salmon River.

It has to be said that at the ‘put-in’ the Middle Fork would be unlikely to get anyone too excited though generally narrow and shallow, this is not (yet) the kind of whitewater maelstrom you see on all the rafting posters.

But what you get instead is inspiring mountain scenery on either side of the river - even in July there are snow patches on the highest of the peaks, which rise to between 7,000ft and 9,000ft.

The upper part of the river is indeed quite mellow, and there are plenty of opportunities to sit back in your raft and watch the landscape drift

by, or hang a line over the side and wait for a salmon or trout to bite (although being a Wilderness Area, all fish are taken on a catchand-release basis).

Day’s end sees rafters and guides chilling out together around a camp fire. Camping is in twoperson tents which your guides will erect for you, invariably on idyllic white-sand beaches beside the river, with a backdrop of pine forests and blue mountains.

Meals, cooked by the guides, are also excellent and varied, there’s plenty of beer and wine, and it doesn’t take long to crash out to the plash and murmur of the nearby river.

you’re most likely to get a feel for the isolation and challenge that this landscape provided for the pioneers who stumbled through here a century ago.

Away from the chatter and clatter of the camp-site, looking at the river flowing ceaselessly towards the far distant Pacific Ocean and the peaks and forests bearing down from above, it’s not hard to appreciate the awesome and sometimes frightening beauty that Idaho presented to those early travellers.

Nor is it hard to understand why the native Sheepeater Indians, whose pictographs you may stumble

WILDLIFE

That said, if you take a hike from the camp-site up the canyon sides, there’s every chance of seeing a big-horn sheep or deer, less so the more exotic local species such as bears, moose, cougars and wolves - which may be just as well for all concerned.

But it’s perhaps on a lone hike before the evening meal that

across, revered and worshipped such an uncompromising and elemental landscape.

Named after the region’s bighorn sheep, which constituted a major part of their diet, the Sheepeaters had this gloriously unspoiled region to themselves until trappers, miners and settlers moved into the area in dribs and drabs from the 1850s onwards, but no access roads were ever built, hence the region has seen very little development or despoilation.

approached in my rubber boat was a vague blur of white water, and what followed was a good deal of bouncing around and a thorough soaking. Shooting a rapid of this size appears to boil down to a combination of anxiety and adrenalin, with, ideally, the adrenalin winning out and taking you through. It’s only afterwards that you realise it was also fun.

The penultimate day of the trip began with shafts of hot sunlight beaming down from above the canyon walls to glimmer off the calm but deep and fast flowing green waters, a big change from the turbulent waters we’d encountered further upstream clear.

But it wasn’t to last, as eventually we approached yet another series of roaring, rushing rapids, including the worryingly named Devil’s Tooth Rapids. Appropriately enough I was unceremoniously flicked out of my ‘ducky’ by a monster of a wave here, but the swim was fun, my pride wasn’t hurt, and I’d go back any time and do it again any time.

BEYOND THE TRAIL

Floating the river began in the 1920s with pioneers who wanted to see what lay beyond the point where the trails ended, and today the number of rafters and kayakers allowed on the river is restricted in order to preserve the wilderness.

Back on the river, it wasn’t until day three of the trip that whitewater started to put in a regular appearance, and I flipped out of my ‘ducky’ (a single-person inflatable kayak) at the first sign

of turbulence. But, as more and more Class III rapids (see box out) assaulted us, I was surprised at how easy they were to deal with if you follow your river guide’s advice.

On day four, we hit our first Class III/IV rapids. One of them, Redside, is regarded as one of the 50 classic rapids in the US, so it was with no small measure of trepidation that I approached it alone in a duckie .

All I could really see of it as I

River guides

River Odysseys West www. rowadventures.com offers sixday rafting trips from mid-June to mid-September which includes all meals, camping gear and transport to and from the put-in point plus basic B&B accommodation for the night before and after the trip in Stanley and Salmon. From $1695 per person.

Vessels provided include a sweep boat, which goes ahead each day with all the equipment to set up camp before your arrival; an oar boat, which sits high out of the water and allows you to relax while the guide controls the boat; a six-person paddle boat which requires you and fellow paddlers to do the work; and double- and single-person inflatable kayaks, or duckies, which are easy to fall out of. You can take turns to ride in whichever of these takes your fancy.

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River classifications Class 1: very easy Class II: easy - waves up to three feet; some manoeuvring required.

Class III: medium - rapids with numerous high, irregular waves capable of swamping an open canoe.

Class IV: difficult - long, difficult rapids, powerful waves, dangerous rocks, boiling eddies, constricted passages.

Class V: very difficult - long, violent rapids, which pose a significant hazard to life in the event of a mishap.

Class VI: limit of navigation - rarely run and a definite hazard to life.

FEAR

Surfer Adrian Lincoln analyses an emotion familiar to all surfers – and anyone else who occasionally takes on Mother Nature

“The only thing we have to fear is fear itself”, the familiar quotation is taken from the Presidential Address given by Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1933.

He went on to say that fear was, “nameless, unreasoning, unjustified terror which paralyzes needed efforts to convert retreat into advance.”

there are times when I’ve been out in the ocean, when I had a more than just a little bit of fear to deal with. A ruined economy can drop a whole pile of crap on your lap, but a macking swell can drop a whole heap of crap on your head for starters and then snap your neck for an encore.

FDR was referring to the economic conditions of the time - in other words, The Great Depression.

Essentially he was saying “If we can’t shake our pessimistic economic outlook, it will be tough to turn things around.” President Roosevelt was calling for a little irrational exuberance.

Sometimes it might feel like you’re the only one dealing with fear.

At the other end of the scale to my experience is Brock Little, a surfer who pretty much made his reputation for seemingly riding the ferocious break at Waimea without fear.

Now I don’t know about you, but

It’s also my experience that a little irrational exuberance is precisely what it takes to get me into the kind of situation I don’t want to be in the first place.

During the 80s and 90s Little proved that he could fall spectacularly and

survive and he has now turned that skill into job as a Hollywood stuntman. But in actual fact Brock rode with fear. He said, “Fear is something you have to deal with.

If you don’t have fear, you’re either a kid, or mad.”

Brock was probably both of those in the early ‘80s, having conquering closed-out Haleiwa by the age of 13. But he’s grown up now and suffers from the same feelings as the rest of us, if only when faced with 30ft waves. Let’s face it, a lack of fear doesn’t make you immortal, a lack of fear has to make you a prime candidate for a shorter life.

So when the next perfect but oversized swell comes spitting in your face, how do you handle the fear in a positive manner? One approach might be the Ian Cairns “piece of cake” strategy. He’d drive over to Sunset, paddle straight out, and

take the latest drop he possibly could on the biggest wave of the first set that came his way. Why? From then on, everything else that came his way seemed like “a piece of cake.”

Another, gentler approach might be more suited to most of us. There is a lot of talk about karma amongst surfers, the belief that what you give is what you get. Respect the ocean and the ocean will respect you. There’s an element of truth in that, but ultimately the ocean is no respecter of who you are, or how good you are.

The ocean is not sentient, has no feelings, no emotions, no way of knowing that you carried an old lady’s bag of shopping across the road for her before you headed into the maelstrom. If it was about karma, good people wouldn’t die in the ocean.

But good people (in all meanings of the word) do die in the ocean.

Malik Joyeaux is a prime example.

Laird Hamilton described Joyeux as “a very positive and happy person, always stoked.” Those who knew him talked of his easy going manner, his ready smile.

One of the good guys. But on what for someone of his calibre was an average day at Pipe (North Shore, Oahu) he lost his life. So far we’re probably not helping you deal with fear that well…..

Experience helps you handle fear.

The knowledge that you’ve been in a similar situation before and got out alone, alive. I adopted a mantra of Mike Parsons, “I’ve been here before, I remember how this feels, I know it will pass.”

Repeating those words over and over in my head has helped me get both in and out of the water more than once.

But what if you’ve never been out when the waves are this big,

or the rip is that strong. What of experience then? Previous experience of fear is on your side, if you use it to your advantage.

What President FDR described was not actually fear, but panic.

And just as panic could have wrecked what was left of the economy in 1933, it is panic that will kill you in the water.

It’s panic that will cause a drowning man to fight the person who comes to rescue him. Spencer, a (nonsurfing) friend had this experience at Manorbier, West Wales a few years back. Having spotted a swimmer in serious difficulty in the rip, he swam out to haul the guy in. The half-drowned man was in

a state of blind panic, wide-eyed, slapping the water, slipping under the surface.

As his would-be rescuer got within touching distance, he grabbed Spencer and tried to climb up over him, pushing him under the water. Spencer had to pretty much fight him off before he could save his life. You might dismiss this as more stupidity than panic, but maybe you’ve been fortunate enough not to have been in a situation where clear thinking was “taken” from you.

I’ve been close. Surfing at my local beach, Freshwater West, you kind of resign yourself to the fact that

sooner or later, you’re going to be fighting a losing battle against the rip. Experience tells you how and where it will take you, where it will get weaker, where to get off the rip and back inside. But sometimes experience lets you down.

me to get out on a high, not go chasing the dragon again. But ignoring the little voice in my head, I paddled on.

This happened one winter. The rip seemed stronger than usual, but not unworkable. So I had a good, long surf. It was cold, with a stiff wind cutting through the neoprene. Constant paddling to stay on the peak had taken my energy levels down and I knew it was time to get out. So I caught that one last wave in.

When a strong rip is running paddling out is easy, a little too easy. Perhaps I was too tired, paddling out in a lull or just not paying enough attention, but too late I realised I was way, way past the line-up. When I turned round and saw a couple of matchstick sized people walking their dogs I cursed my lack of attention, and suddenly had a longing to be walking a dog safely and sensibly on dry land.

Only it wasn’t just any wave, it was by far the best ride I’d had the whole session. Sure enough the rush was enough to put that monkey on my back again, so I went out for just one more.

I started to try and paddle in, but kept going backwards in the channel. I knew how to get out of the rip, but suddenly I felt not just fear, but exhaustion and then panic.

Now experience should have told

Under that unreasoning influence,

I jumped off my board – the one ‘safety device’ that meant it was impossible to drown, and tried to swim for it. Thankfully my leash ensured that my board was never more than 6ft away from me, and I soon realised the pointless nature of the struggle.

I got myself back on the board, sat on it for a moment and regained my composure – all the while drifting further out of course then got back down to the serious business of getting across the rip and back to the shore.

Sure it took what was for me a pretty supreme effort, but when I got my feet back on the sand, I’d learnt some useful lessons.

Lessons about listening to my body, about not surfing to 100% of my strength reserves. About how to recognise approaching panic, and in future, keep a calmer head.

Accept the fear, maybe even welcome it as part of the familiar experience. And remember the last time you felt it, you got out safely too.

Adrian Lincoln VISIT WEBSITE

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going big

Gabe Davies is one of the world’s top big wave riders. He was in the first crew to take on 50-ft Mullaghmore off the Irish coast and has been nominated for the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Award.

We asked him what it takes to be a big wave rider (beside large cojones)…

When did you first develop a taste for big wave surfing?

The age of 13 or 14 was a very influential time for me.

I first saw some incredible big waves both at my home break and on my first trip up to Thurso in Northern Scotland.

Those moments are still strong in my mind; from there I travelled on to places like SW France, Ireland and Hawaii. All those new places just opened my eyes to what else is out there.

Where was the first place you really experienced proper big waves?

Every beach has its day, but during my first season in Hawaii every day was a test. There is nowhere else quite like it for consistent and ‘user friendly’ big waves. It’s such a testing place that I fell in love with it and I kept going back for years to try and get a handle

on it. There are endless places to push yourself and learn about heavy water and equipment.

Do you get scared like the rest of us?!

Yep – but sometimes it’s the smaller shallower waves that scare me the most. I was last super scared up in Scotland and it never got over 6ft.

It comes down to confidence and how much time you have spent in the water before the big swells hit. If you are off your game or your gear isn’t tuned in, then you can quickly dig a hole for yourself, which will blow your confidence and then sure enough the fear will sneak up on you!

How do you deal with the fear?

I guess it is taking time out to get your head in the right space, be that before the session or between waves once you are out in the water. Usually once you have a wave under your belt you can start to build some momentum in the session.

Another thing to do is to keep busy during the surf to stop your mind playing tricks on itself; just sitting there quivering will only send you into a downward spiral.

And how do you deal with the wipeouts?

Again it’s all about confidence I guess and just holding your nerve in the first place to avoid them all together!

When it comes to the crunch and you are in a dark place getting smashed around, I find holding your breath for long hold downs is easiest if you make an effort to relax.

If it really starts to bite and you start kicking for the surface and you think you are on your last gasp it can sometimes help to count to ten under the water; so far I have never actually got to ten, but it just gives your mind something to focus on apart from the beating itself.

What sort of training do you do for riding big waves?

I swim a lot in the winter as the cold sea temperature can really cut your water time down, I always do stretching and yoga and in the summer I try to do regular open water swim sessions or freedive as much as possible; anything just to maintain water time even when there are no waves.

How important is it to have total faith in your partner?

Yeah it is super important; I really trust and rely on my good friend Richie Fitzgerald at Surfworld (www. surfworld.ie) in Bundoran. He coaches all summer and is amping for the Irish winter swells, he is super fit and on it whenever there are waves.

On the East Coast, Northcore (www.northcore-europe. com) have sponsored a jet ski for myself and Sandy Kerr who is the best up and coming pro in the area and who is also keen to chase big hollow waves. I really look forward to the winter swells kicking in again.

You now live back in your home town of Newcastle after years of being based in SW France. What’s the attraction of the cold waves of the north east compared to the warm waves of Les Landes?

I love the reef breaks up there even though they are very inconsistent. It is also lot closer to Ireland and Scotland, which again are prime locations in my eyes. That is the draw for me and the lush crew of guys who live up here and the good network of film makers and friends who really make the difference to our quality of life, which is important to me.

Ireland’s a particular favourite for you, but are there other cold water destinations you’re keen to explore?

There are still plenty of options in Ireland that I am yet to explore, and the Scottish coast still has spots off the radar. Iceland keeps popping up in conversations and is on the hit list, but I have no major plans just yet other than to just film some great sessions and try not to miss too many epic swells.

Do you reckon big wave/tow surfing will ever get really popular (breaks like Jaws are a bit of a shitfight these days after all) or will it always be the preserve of the few?

It is without doubt getting easier to surf big waves as more and more people get access to jet skis, but big waves will always look after themselves. There is a movement away from jet kis now and guys are focussing on paddling big waves again which is a good thing.

I also think spots tend to come in and out of favour. There will always be swells where everyone is in town and causing a bit of chaos, but then there are swells that also sneak under the radar or hit during the more trickier weather conditions of mid-winter.  Those are the days when you are more likely to score your dream wave!

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Thanks Gabe, and good luck in the continuing search!

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IN THE PICTURE

‘In the Picture’ is a new regular feature for the Church in which we present a portfolio of the work of a top outdoor/adventure photographer.

Jacki Sime Photographic Artist Quiver Tree, Namibia

For our first ‘In the Picture’ we offer you the work of Jacki Sime whose work will have you booking your next flight to an exotic destination…

Jacki is an acclaimed photographic artist who is known for her outstandingly beautiful images taken from around the world and her home stretch in Pembrokeshire, West Wales.

Her artwork is held in public and private collections in the UK and overseas.

around the world and she has worked on a number of wildlife documentaries and expeditions.

She has a Master’s degree in marine environmental protection and has lectured on environmental impact.

The first collective portfolio of Jacki’s photographs is featured in the book ‘Breaking Waves of Light’ and she is currently working on her third commissioned book which features her words and images based on the St. Davids Peninsula in Pembrokeshire.

Jacki’s veneration of the environment shapes her art into striking portraits of the natural world. There is a quality and honesty in her work. Jacki predominantly uses fine grain film, imposes nothing on her photographs “It takes days to find the right image. Once found I return to the spot many times and wait for that subtle shift in the light”.

Her photography has taken her to several fascinating locations

Star Dunes Namib Desert, Namibia

Leg-Rowing Fisherman Burma

Glacial Melt water, Iceland

Bedouin Sinai Desert

Sulamani Burma

Head In The Clouds, La Gomera

St Davids Peninsula’, Pembrokeshire

Drifting Reflection Inle Lake, Burma

Tanga Irrawaddy River (Ayeyanwady), Burma

MORE INFO Jacki’s photographs are available through her website www.jackisime.co.uk and are on permanent display at Pebbles Yard Gallery, St Davids, Pembrokeshire, Tel: 01437720122.

Jacki also supplies images to publications.

If you would like further information please e-mail info@jackisime.co.uk

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TouchScreen Travels at Mammoth

This issue TouchScreen Travels visits California, meeting Dana Nichols, author of the smartphone and tablet app Mammoth in the Know. Out since 2011, it uses years of insider knowledge and hundreds of quality photos to uncover the best of this world-class skiing and mountain biking resort.

Church: Hi Dana, thanks for joining us. What brought you to Mammoth and inspired you to write the app?

I grew up in Los Angeles, and so I grew up going skiing and snowboarding in Mammoth. After college, I headed there to work for the town’s newspaper. Then, after years living and writing there, I felt I could write the book on Mammoth. I saw something online about Sutro Media (http:// www.sutromedia.com/), a travel app guidebook publisher, and that inspired me to get in touch and propose the idea.

Church: They sound like a great tips... And, looking through your app, it looks like one of Mammoth’s key summer draws are all the interesting side trips that are possible from town?

Mountain biking has been going on here for decades and the bike park gets bigger and better every year.

I like Bodie Ghost Town and Mono Lake for bringing out photographic creativity. Meanwhile, Benton Hot Springs or camping along the June Lake Loop are perfect when I really want to ‘get away’ for a weekend.

Church: Mammoth’s best known for skiing, isn’t it? So when do you get the best snow and the fewest people?

Church: And what are the other big reasons for visiting Mammoth - any standout events?

Yes, Mammoth’s best known for skiing and snowboarding. It’s one of the biggest resorts in the U.S. in terms of both size and visitation.

Which is impressive because it’s not exactly easy to get to.

The best bets for great snow are January, except MLK Jr. Weekend, and March, except spring break.

But keep in mind that most people visit Mammoth on weekends from southern California, so there’s a big difference in crowds between weekdays and weekends.

Church: Other than skiers and snowboarders who else should have it on their bucket list?

Mammoth is an incredible summer destination, but somehow overlooked by non-Californians.

I’d particularly recommend Mammoth in summer to anyone coming to Yosemite. Mammoth is only one hour away, and in many ways Mammoth a superior Sierra destination: more restaurants, less traffic, awesome hiking, awesome fishing.

Yes, there are so many side trips!

Did you know that Lonely Planet voted the Eastern Sierra as one of the top 10 U.S. destinations for 2013? They based it on the fact that you can visit so many places so easily.

Many rock climbers probably already have Bishop and its bouldering area ‘The Buttermilks’ on their bucket list, and maybe the Owens Gorge too, but if they don’t, look it up! I love climbing in and around Mammoth. It’s never too hot out, the spots are never too crowded, and, as with other activities I’ve mentioned, locals are friendly.

Another real personal favourite is fly fishing. Even when I had to be at work at 8:30am, I used to wake up early and go fishing first! Hot Creek and anywhere along the June Lake Loop are my favourites.

Lakes are stocked with trout every year, and there’s always a local who can give you a pointer or two.

The ‘Festival of Beers & Bluesapalooza’ is a great event every summer. It’s run by the awesome Mammoth Brewing Co. and hosts all kinds of breweries from around California and the States in a wonderful outdoor pine forest. With music!

Church: Any offbeat treasures or experiences?

If you read my app, look for the listing for ‘Whoa Nellie Deli’ at Tioga Gas Mart. That’s a fun dining experience. And also look for the listing for Natural Hot Springs.

Church: Thanks Dana, sounds like a trip to Mammoth is a bit of a no-brainer if you’re on a Sierra Nevada or even a Californian road trip…

Mammoth in the Know Welcome to the only complete iPhone and iPad Mammoth guidebook for people who dig (and value) the mountain lifestyle.

Mammoth is California’s most evolving and exciting mountain town and the US’s second-most popular ski resort. A four-season place for outdoor lovers and Olympic athletes.

In the app you’ll find distinctively voiced travel advice written and curated by a 7+ year resident and over 1,000 brilliant photos to make it way more powerful (and useful) than free apps with “just the listings.”

Featuring:

-Frequent Updates - Tips for 365 days a year -GPS map for every listing -Over 125 entries, with more in development -One-tap web and phone links -Snow Report links -Winter roads links

Including:

- Use the bus, the easy way - Shops and gear rental - find deals - Restaurants - what to order, what to skip - Hidden gems in June Lake

The author shares where the best sunset spot is, who makes the best milkshake, how local bears get their names, important seasonal closures, the best day trips and much more.

A few taps take you to the best breakfast burrito. Best snowmobile trails. Current fishing info. An easy two-hour hike. Filter through “Mammoth On a Budget” and “Kidfriendly” so you don’t overlook anything good. Also - “Dog-friendly Mammoth” and tips on navigating Mammoth Mountain’s maze of day lodges.

Whether you’re visiting Mammoth for the first time, living there or a regular weekend warrior, Mammoth In the Know ensures you’re up-todate with the latest restaurants, happy hours and on- mountain changes.

AUTHOR BIO:

Dana Nichols’ career as a freelance travel writer has found her crisscrossing California up and down, side-to-side and back again. She has contributed to the ‘US Ski and Snowboard Guide to America’, ‘Skiing’, ‘Mammoth Sierra Magazine’ and ‘Eastside Magazine’ as a Mammoth expert. Her most memorable powder days have been at June Mountain.

You can often find her warming up with the hot ginger lemonade at Stellar Brew.

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GEAR REVIEWS Here’s our regular review of some of the finest outdoor kit on the market. Anything that features here is pretty much guaranteed to be worth checking out – you can take the word of the Church for that….

MEINDL VITALITY MID GTX £139.99

A traditional looking boot with understated good looks, the Vitality is designed on a women’s specific Comfort-fit last, which incorporates a spacious toe box and higher volume forefoot for added comfort.

The ‘Wellness’ sole unit provides plenty of cushioning, and a combination of waxed nubuck leather uppers and a Goretex lining gives waterproof, breathable protection, ensuring you can use the boots year-round. Additional features include an ‘Air-Active’ Wellness Sport footbed which gives good support, a nylon midsole insert for torsional stability and a shock absorber heel insert.

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SALOMON

TRAIL RUNNER LS ZIP TEE £50.00 With a summer like this the Trail Runner is just what you need - lightweight, wicking and breathable and with a ¾-length zip it helps keep you as cool as you can reasonably expect to be if you choose to run up and down mountains. Flatlock seams help prevent any chafing and the reflective branding front and back is useful if you’re running at night in urban environments. The shirt weighs just 150g so you won’t notice it in your luggage if travelling, and it can also be worn as a base layer. Oh, and it’s available in blue and green as well as the black you see here.

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SAUCONY PEREGRINE 2 £85.00

To be quite honest we’d like this shoe just for the colours… however, it has a lot of other great features which help us like it even more. Amongst these is a unique multi-directional grip system that gives you good traction on all trail surfaces. Your feet are closer to the ground in the Peregrine too, with a 4mm drop between rearfoot and forefoot which allows for improved proprioception and balance when negotiating difficult routes and gives better feedback on loose, dangerous ground, and they’re super light which is vital when trail running.

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NIKE

MAX TRANSITION SPEED TINT SUNGLASSES £176.00 Ouch! Yes, you saw the price and came over all faint…but let’s set that aside for the moment whilst I explain what these sunnies are all about. The Nike Max Speed Tint lens is designed to optimize visual performance during sports like running and cycling by quickly responding to changing light conditions – no, they don’t go light and dark literally in a second, but having used the Skylon Ace model (which also comes with interchangeable lenses) for mountain biking in a mixed alpine/forest environment I found they adapted to light and shade quickly enough to make riding far easier (especially in shady conditions) than with conventional sunglasses. The transition feature also means you can wear them all day long as light levels change.

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Nike claims the lens and frames are specifically engineered for sport performance, and they are indeed super light and comfortable, featuring a lightweight sport-wrap frame design, secure-wrap temple arms and a ventilated nose bridge. There’s no doubt that £176 is a lot to pay for a pair of sunnies, but at the same time they do exactly what it says on the tin and we thought they were very tidy indeed.

DRAGON CINCH JET SUNNIES £59.99

If you don’t want an expensive sports-oriented pair of sunnies like the Nike Transition, how about these? Simple, sturdy, stylish frames with a vivid contrasting red colour on the inside, grippy, comfortable rubber nose pad and best of all, funky reflective lenses with 100% UV protection (you can also get them with polarized lenses).

The Cinch Jets don’t just protect your eyes, they catch the eye of others – and if you don’t want people to know what you’re looking at this is the eyewear for you as the reflective lenses keep everyone guessing. Or if you just want to look good in your shades this is the eyewear for you too.

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SALOMON

XA PRO 3D ULTRA 2 TRAIL RUNNING SHOES £95.00 First the good news; the XA Pro blah-de-blah is comfortable, light, rugged and supportive and a great option for trail running and summer mountain walking - in fact they even offer a good service when mountain biking with flat pedals since the soles are super grippy. They took couple of wears to fully break in (not that the first time out caused any real problems) and I especially liked the Quicklace one-pull lacing system - it’s fast and provides a secure hold - and the support provided to the upper foot along with great cushioning from the EVA shaped footbed and super-grippy Contagrip soles.

However… I was caught by a seriously heavy thunderstorm whilst walking in them in the Alps and my feet got damp; no, it wasn’t sweat nor water getting in over the top of the shoes, it was what I’ve long suspected with Gore-tex in footwear – it doesn’t always work. I’ve had the same problem since when walking in snow, which is a shame because in every other respect these are great shoes; trouble is getting wet/damp feet is a fairly fundamental issue…

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THULE

PERSPEKTIV MESSENGER BAG £125.99

Being of Scandinavian origin the design of this very hip messenger bag is of course clean, minimal and functional. There are fewer seams which mean less points of entry for water, coffee and beer, and critical seams are welded and taped. We especially liked the bag’s removable pod concept since it allows you to use it for different activities, from commuting to photography.

The Perspektiv will easily hold a laptop in its well-padded sleeve, a DSLR camera and up to two lenses along with all your other bits and pieces. The removable pod system provides a modular option for carrying essentials or to store your equipment for safe keeping, and the airport security friendly laptop compartment fits up to a 15” MacBook Pro.

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In addition to the camera and laptop compartments there’s a goodsized compartment for ‘general’ stuff such as books, and two small mesh pockets for small items such as mobile phone or spare memory cards and batteries. You can access your stuff on the go via a waterproof zip built into the lid, which is secured with Velcro fastenings and buckles, and the shoulder strap and hip straps are easily adjustable for different activities such as cycling or walking.

THERMA-REST NAVIS SLEEPING BAG £200.00

The 750+ fill goose down of the Navis gives it a comfort rating of -2 to +7C, and it’s designed to be used by alpinists and backpackers looking for minimal weight and maximum warmth and versatility. And it works…There is a slight compromise required in that in colder weather you’re expected to wear your insulated jacket whilst in the bag in order to keep warm, but the ‘sewn-through’ construction in the upper half of the bag layers easily over a belay parka or a lightweight pullover and also allows you to move around comfortably, which I really appreciated as a restless sleeper.

I also liked the ‘SynergyLink Connectors’ on the bottom of the Navis – a fancy name for flexible bands on the bottom of the bag which fit around your sleeping mattress to keep it centred and ensure you don’t roll off. Weighing in a 610g and coming with a stuff and storage sac, this is a lovely sleeping bag which we have absolutely no hesitation in recommending.

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COLUMBIA CONSPIRACY OUTDRY £95.00

These trail running shoes are so light that wearing them is like floating on air like a great big fairy. Well, kind of… We loved the sticky Omni-Grip soles which ensure your feet stay on the trail, and the combination of Techlite lightweight cushioned midsole, Techlite FluidFrame multidensity underfoot support and TPU shank all make for a remarkably comfortable shoe whether running or walking.

Despite their light weight they’re tough enough to handle a good hammering on the trail, and the Outdry fabric used in the uppers is both waterproof and breathable. They also feature asymmetrical lacing to alleviate pressure on the top of the foot, so you can fasten them good and tight and remain comfortable (although we did find they needed a tiny bit of breaking in as the front of the uppers was initially just a little stiff) . There’s protection for your bright new shoes too in the form of a useful leather toe rand. If you like bright, light footwear you’ll like the Outdry.

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HUMMINGBIRD LUMBAR PILLOW £29.99

This might seem a little unusual as a review product, but I bet – oo, 50p – that a lot of people reading this mag have lower back problems as a result of their adventures on foot, boards, skis, bikes etc. I did my back in whilst working as a cycle courier, and ever since long journeys where I’m seated for hours at a time leave my lumbar area feeling as if someone’s been beating it with a cricket bat. Using this lumbar pillow when I’m driving helps keep that to a minimum – its self-inflating design and ergonomic shape provide ample back and spine support and you can even make one-handed adjustments to it whilst driving. It’s also very light and can be packed flat so it’s easy to take with you when you’re travelling, whilst the high-quality construction ensures a lengthy usable life. To me it’s gotta be worth spending a penny under thirty quid if it means the difference between joining tomorrow’s surf session or sitting on the beach with a sore back watching everyone else having fun…

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ARC’TERYX AERIOS 10 DAYPACK £70.00

For this time of year, when you generally don’t need to carry as much kit, the lightweight Aerios 10 is a great choice. It’s aimed at trail runners and hikers looking to travel fast and light but it would also be fine for mountain bikers with its simple, minimalist and well thought out design. You can slot a hydration bladder in and there’s a main compartment for food and waterproofs plus a small zipped inner security pocket, a generously sized bungee cord for extras and a couple of small mesh pockets on either side.

The Aerios also features Arc’teryx’ AeroForm™ backpanel for maximum airflow and a modular waist belt that can be positioned higher on the abdomen for superior bounce control. At first glance there doesn’t seem to be a lot to the Aerios, but it’s actually a really well-designed and effective daypack that’s ideal for 2-3 season use.

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FINISTERRE DARLEY WAFFLE CREW £85.00

I got my hands on this lovely chunky blue jumper early in the summer and found it ideal for its intended purpose – which as the bods at Finisterre say is for ‘ summer time here in the British Isles’ i.e. warmish days/coolish nights. And then we drifted into the warmest summer for years so I’ve hardly worn it since!

However, I can confirm that it’s ideal for throwing in for dawn surf checks in summer, or after a sunny evening sesh - the loose and light fit and the waffle stitch adds an uneven finish with plenty of stretch so it slips on easily. It’s also green (well ok, it’s actually blue in the pic but you know what I mean) like everything Finisterre do, being made from 100% biofil organic cotton grown in Europe. You need to bear in mind that the waffle stitch means that on breezy days the wind goes straight through it, but as a stylish, practical jumper for hanging out at the beach or pub you can’t go far wrong with the Darley.

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ARC’TERYX ARISTO PANTS £85.00

These have been my number one choice of long legwear this summer as they’re so comfortable and hard wearing. Made from a durable, breathable cotton/nylon canvas textile that is pleasantly soft-to-the-touch, the anatomical shape with articulated knees and seat and a gusseted crotch makes them ideal for everything from dog walking and building sandcastles to bouldering and climbing.

I like little touches like the adjustable integrated webbing belt and colour coordinated bar tack reinforced seams, and the selection of two hand pockets, two rear pockets with angled access and two thigh pockets with zips means there’s plenty of storage space for cash, phone, etc. Add to that the fact that they look great too and what’s not to like about the Aristo…?

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Let Sleeping Bags Lie

Our long term review, putting kit through its paces over many moons

Exped Synmat UL7

£84.99

Exped Comfort 600 available online only

VISIT WEBSITE Daniel Wildey reviews a great sleeping bag/ sleeping mat combo.

The Exped Comfort 600 is pitched as a three-season bag; maybe not what you’d immediately reach for on the hottest day of the year, but what is a one-season bag? OK, I like to be warm, but to me a oneseason sleeping bag is for use indoors. Maybe car camping in Southern Europe. But for sleeping high, even in summer, the Comfort 600 is a great compromise. It’s certainly not a winter bag, and dispenses with unnecessary features like a neck baffle, but adds a separate zip around the foot box to allow your toes to cool off, or to enable use as a blanket.

It’s not the lightest or smallest on the market, but the features combined with clear quality in the construction, make it a very versatile bag, and one I’ve been happy to haul up many a Lakeland fell.

The Exped Synmat UL7 is a

great partner to the bag. It’s in a different league in terms of weight and spec, and the lightness makes up for carrying the extra weight of the bag (at least if you’re nesh like me!) I’ve used a few ‘lightweight’ mats, but the Synmat manages to combine synthetic insulation laminated to the inside walls - with a nice thickness, and still be lighter than lesser mats. 455 grams in the size of a small water bottle.

What this means to me, as with

the bag, is awesome versatility light enough to justify carrying in summer, but reliable enough in the colder months.

If you can afford three sets of camping gear you’ll find more specialist equipment for different conditions, but this combination will send me happily to dreamland from March to October.

ROOM WITH A VIEW In which we sample a very nice hotel with a very nice view

Rifugio Averau, up a mountain, Italian Dolomites image: Alf Alderson

The words ‘mountain refuge’ tend to conjure up images of smelly bunks and even smellier residents, so Rifugio Averau comes as quite a surprise. On entering I was shown to a bunk room that was light, airy and had mountain views to die for; fresh clean sheets adorned each bunk, all was clean and tidy and of the the normal mountain refuge mix of dampness and warmth festooned in a miasma of pungent aromas there was none.

Rifugio Averau is sublimely situated on mountain trail Alta Via No. 1, in the heart of the Dolomiti Superski areas and above Passo Falzarego between Cortina d’Ampezzo and Selva , and as such easily reached by hikers, mountain bikers and skiers.

Recently renovated it offers various accommodation options from rooms for two or four people with private bathroom and TV to dorms for between six and ten.

It’s a great mix of the best things of traditional mountain refuges (spectacular views; instant access to the mountains) and the best of modern budget hotel accommodation.

Set in the heart of the Dolomites guests enjoy awesome (literally, not in the crass American sense) views of iconic Dolimiti peaks and crags such as the Marmolada, the Cinque Torri and the Tofana massif.

And things only get better in the restaurant. The refuge is internationally renowned for the quality of its menu and wine list, and of course Italian menus are invariably pasta rich which is ideal energy food for anyone pootling around in the mountains.

The amicable owners Paolo and Sandro Siorpaes produce superb dishes which you can enjoy on the large terraces with fantastic mountain views, or inside in the cosy, warm restaurant.

There’s a convivial atmosphere in here; you’ll invariably find yourself chatting with fellow outdoor types from all corners of the planet, and

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the hardest thing is refraining from getting stuck into the wine list with gusto if you plan to hit the hills on the morrow.

The refuge’s flier describes the reviews they’ve received from Italian and foreign guests as ‘raving’, and whilst this slight loss in translation may bring a wry smile to your face we all know what it means and its bang on.

Having visited in summer I can’t wait to try Rifugio Averau in winter too, when you can ski right from the door. That will be ‘raving’ in every sense of the word…

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BOOK REVIEW

LAKE DISTRICT MOUNTAIN BIKE ROUTES – 22 Classic Routes in the Cumbrian Fells and Dales

By Tom Hutton (Out There Guides, £13.95) It’s not difficult to get hold of info on where to ride in ‘t Lakes these days, but this new guide book from respected mtb journo/guide writer Tom Hutton is as good as they come. Compact enough to fit in your pack, it features OS maps of all the routes that are easy to follow (and can also be transposed onto GPS), inspiring

colour pics (how did Tom manage to do his almost all his ‘field work’ on sunny days?!) and easy to follow instructions – what more could you ask of a guide book?

from easy family friendly/bad weather routes to masochist specials (graded as ‘Epic’) such as High Street (on that I would concur…).

All of the routes in the guide are pretty classic Lake District loops – I know from having done a few myself – and feature everything

I also liked the fact that Tom hasn’t just stuck to the wellknown and easily accessible fells; loops such as the 32-km Back o’ Skiddaw take you into terrain that is invariably wild and quiet, whilst esoteric choices such as the little known western outlier of Black Combe tempt you to explore areas you may not otherwise consider (interestingly – for me – I almost rode Black Combe last winter but was put off by the weather; I now know it would have been worth the effort…).

You get the usual additional guidebook info on how to use the book, bike, kit, safety etc. which is all written in an easy-going and non-patronising tone, and Tom has also stuck his neck out and chosen a ‘Best Singletrack’, ‘Best Climb’ and ‘Best Descent’ as well as the ‘Top Five’ rides in the book – my only minor criticism would be that you have to leaf through the book to find these rather than them being highlighted in the index.

I’d be happy to do any of the 22 routes in the book (well, I might think twice about a couple of the ‘Epics’) and for anyone planning a day, a weekend or longer riding on England’s finest hills this is a tome worth having along for the ride.

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W W W. FA C E B O O K . C O M / T H E 1 0 0 0 S U R F E R S P R O J E C T

« THE 1000 SURFERS PROJECT » is a cultural initiative which aims to highlight today’s world surf culture. Through a photographic exhibition piecing together 1000 portraits collected on our Facebook page, we want to show the diversity of the surfers’ profiles from all over the world.

Up to now, the community has already gathered 250 portraits, more than 1200 fans in 40 different countries.

To be a part of the project is very easy: you just need to like and post a picture of yourself in our Facebook page, mentioning your age, location and activity. It’s not about surfing pictures; we want to see who you really are and what surfing means to you. It could be a picture of you at work, during your free time, your travels, or whatever… Be creative!

Be part of this community! It’s free, easy and open to everyone!

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CONTACT : Tom Turner - co-creator +33 6 48 38 46 46 1000surfers@gmail.com

Hope to see you soon in our facebook page « The 1000 Surfers Project » team

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NEXT ISSUE WINTER SPECIAL Hurrah! All that pesky sunshine and hot weather will be behind us and winter just around the corner!

Snowy tales from the Rocky Mountains and French Alps, how to get your ski boots to fit, how to stay warm when it’s cold, keeping clear of avalanches and much more.