Cibare Food and Drinks Magazine Issue 11 by Cibare

Cibare Issue Eleven, Winter 2017

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Contents

HEALTH AND NUTRITION Excersise Through the Winter Pizza and Weightloss 48WInter is COming

FEATURES

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a Cracker 48

22 50

REVIEW

GARDENING

Jerkmaica 38 Introduction to Sour Beer 42

Autnum into Winter 32

FOOD FOR THE SEASON Pizza 10 Cauliflower Pizza Crust 18 A bit on the side 20 Nectarine and Kale Pizza 26 Pad Ped Kai 30 Cooking with Kids 36

BOOKS Two Kitchens 4 Gizzi Erskine 54

SOURCES AND CREDITS 2

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Well this is another gorgeous issue of Cibare and it’s the last one for this year, but we will be back next year with a vengeance!!! We aren’t harping on about festivities, but we are letting you in on some great ideas for what to eat now that it’s getting colder, how to stay healthy and what to read on these darker nights in. So get ready to carb load because it’s our PIZZA ISSUE! Enjoy! X

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Editor’s Note

REVIEW

Two Kitchens

By Despina Mina

The CIBARE team is talking pizza this month! So in keeping with the Italian flavour and due to its perfectly timed release, I chose to review Rachel Roddy’s latest cookbook Two Kitchens.

I’m encouraged to make my own decision on how long the tomatoes should be cooked. If you want it to be more like a sauce, cook it for longer. As this was a starter, I wanted to maintain its structure for ease of serving so left the dish to cook for 25-30 min. It takes For those of you who aren’t familiar with no time at all to prep and left in the oven I her, Rachel is an English food writer living move on to my next antipasti: Cauliflower in Rome with her Sicilian partner Vincenzo Wedges with Polenta. and their little boy. Vincenzo’s family home is Gela in Sicily and Rachel has drawn inspi- The cauliflower is prepared in three stages; ration for this book from his rich heritage. dipping each pre-boiled slice into the flour, then egg, then polenta, and then laying into a frying pan. If you enjoy getting your hands mucky like I do, give this one a go. I also put together a plate of Ricotta, Oregano, Olives and Olive Oil and served it all with some homemade Focaccia.

The opening chapter begins with tomatoes and their importance in Italian cooking. This includes sage advice on how to sun-dry them (check the weather forecast!). I don’t have the sun-drenched roofs of Gela so my little oven in north London will suffice.

I left my guests ruminating over their first course and, given the strong opinions some have over anchovies (a Marmite reaction), I guessed the tomato dish might split the crowd. Interestingly enough it wasn’t the saltiness of this little fish that sparked a Antipasti: Baked Tomatoes with Ancho- discussion, it was the idea of crispy breadcrumbs in olive oil.

vies, Garlic and Breadcrumbs

There’s no photo attached to this antipasti Did it need to so much olive oil? I say yes recipe, but as I read the intro I can see why. 4

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PICTURE CREDITS: Despina Mina

The book isn’t split into obvious chapters like Starters, Meat, Fish or Dessert. Instead it’s divided according to ingredients: Vegetables & Herbs; Fruits & Nuts; Meat, Fish & Dairy and Store Cupboard.

However it was agreed that it was rich with colour, and full of depth and flavour. The ricotta, olives and focaccia went down a storm and the cauliflower was a hit. Don’t forget to add a squeeze of lemon, I did. Being the host, I wanted to cook food that left me time to spend with everyone and the Chicken with Citrus and Olives did just that. Marinated overnight, all I needed to do on the day was pop it in the oven whilst we enjoyed the starters. There are no suggestions as to what this can be served with, so I chose the Tagliatelle with Lemon and

Parmesan.

The chicken is infused with citrus flavours but they don’t overpower it, and the meat stays soft and tender. But it’s the pasta that impresses us the most, every strand evenly coated in the lemon and parmesan emulsion. I’d happily devour a bowl of this on its own.

To be honest, at first glance this book intimidated me a bit. I know that sounds a bit weird but there’s something more personal about it, more intimate. The photographs feel like snapshots of real-life Sicily and Rome – and it’s not sugar-coated to look perfect. The food doesn’t have the perfectly lit studio, fresh linen and retro kitchenalia appearance, and maybe this is because Rachel comes across as a writer first and a cook second. So before throwing myself into the recipe pages, it felt particularly important to understand her appreciation of Italian cooking and culture. A certain sentence stops me in my tracks, as it definitely resonated with me “…recipes live in stories; small everyday ones and much bigger ones”. Throughout the book Rachel involves you in an experience. She invites you to smell the fresh tomatoes and pick the grapes that taste almost drunken. It’s true, most people do have a story to share when it comes to a much-loved recipe and this is what Rachel has very poetically achieved. It’s inspired me to become more involved in understanding the value of good quality ingredients and to appreciate the beauty of simple flavours.

It felt right to round the meal off with someBravo! thing light: Peaches poached with Rosé and Honey. It’s so visually pretty in its simplicity and, although quite sweet, felt refreshing and tasted deceptively mature. Pour that syrup in a wine glass and you have the finest mulled wine ever tasted! I served this with a little piece of sticky sweet Nut Brittle, partly because I wanted to see how easy it was to make, and partly because I fancied some with coffee later.

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PICTURE CREDITS: Despina Mina

to the crunchy bread crumbs as they hit the bottom of the pan, soak up all the juices and soften. Others say no because you lose the crunchiness and end up with a dish with no other texture.

FOOD

PIZZA By Editor

You can buy a pizza almost anywhere. A petrol station, a supermarket, up market restaurant even, if you really want to spend some lolly. But when you just want a really nice pizza at home why are we buying out and ordering in when it’s actually really bloomin’ easy to make one yourself! Just buy some simple ingredients and make your own, it’s really not that hard or expensive but it will make something really tasty!!

yeah I can’t do that, and I’ve tried. If you want to give that a go be my guest but every time I’ve tried I’ve over worked the dough and it gets tough, so I just have a play and a pull, stretch and use a rolling pin to get it into a nice thin shape. Hearts seem to work well and sausages. I have no idea why. But I’d just go with whatever you feel is coming to you. It’s all going to taste good anyway.

BASE

This is a really easy bit - you can just buy a jar or carton of passata. It’s really cheap and you can simply splodge that on as is, or you can add some herbs, garlic and maybe even some onion. I’ve even tried left over bolognaise too which is really good!!! (Mind you if you put that on toast with cheese on you are also in for a treat!)

For ingredients I’d see page 24 for Emma Waltons recipe, and if you fancy a white base just change your flour to Strong White flour. (Otherwise Id used a bread maker because I got one for Christmas and I have to use it whenever possible or I’m in serious trouble. But I do like it I promise babe!) So once you have your dough, make sure you use loads of flour to keep it from sticking to your hands or your work area, but be careful it doesn’t get dry and crusty, no one wants that. Just give it a little knead and get it into shape. Now I’m not one for making a perfect circle like you find in an authentic pizzeria, 10

TOMATO SAUCE

CHEESE

This is when you can really make a difference. You can use some left over Cheddar or whatever you have in the fridge or you can get some mozzarella!! Now, with this cheese you can buy it ready grated in a bag from a supermarket and that will certainly do the

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job, or if you really want to be posh you can buy a nice ‘fresh’ (in a packet obviously) ball of cheese. This is when it gets serious, because a ball of mozzarella is just amazing!! And you can really taste the difference. Don’t get me wrong the grated stuff is nice but it has potato flour on it to keep it all from sticking back together, so it does have a different consistency. But the fresh stuff you just need to pull apart the wet gooey mess and you will be happy you did. A nice goats’ cheese, Cheddar, Brie, anything that is melty or just because you like it, will work too! It just won’t taste like Domino’s (but thank God for that!).

TOPPINGS

This really is when you can come into your own. Personally I like it meaty but I’ll make a confession - even I like a bit of pineapple on my pizza! Don’t judge me. But you can go mad. As long as your base isn’t too thick!!! You need to cook that too. Your toppings will cook nicely pretty much whatever you use if it’s a thin base but if you like it thick then you might want to give that a cook first. Also if you do cover it in pepperoni then be careful as it releases oils which are delicious but keep your base wet. So keep that in mind. But if you keep these few things in mind you will be on your way to make an amazing pizza.

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HAM AND PINEAPPLE (WITH GOATS CHEESE)

PEPPERONI PIZZA

HALF MUSHROOM AND CHILI HALF PANCETTA AND ROCKET WITH PARMESAND PIZZA

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HALF SUNDRIED TOMATO AND HALF PESTO WITH OLIVES AND GOATS CHEESE PIZZA

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FLORETINA EGG AND SPINACH PIZZA

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CARAMELIZED ONION AND GOATS CHEESE PIZZA (ALSO GREAT WITH FIGS)

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FOOD

Cauliflower Pizza Crust Dani Gavriel

INGREDIENTS • 1 whole cauliflower • 1/4 tsp salt • 1/2 tsp dried basil • 1/2 tsp dried oregano • 1/2 tsp crushed garlic • 1/2 tsp crushed red pepper • 1/4 cup parmesan cheese, grated • 1/4 cup mozzarella cheese, grated • 1 egg, beaten METHOD • Line a baking tray with baking parchment. • Finely chop the cauliflower or pulse it in a food processor. • Microwave for 5 minutes. • Put the mixture into a towel and drain out any water. • Mix all the dry ingredients together with the cauliflower. • Flatten the ‘dough’ and make a rough circle around 1/2cm thick. • Bake in a moderate oven on the top shelf for around 15 minutes until it turns golden brown. • Top with tomato passata, a mix of grated cheddar and mozzarella cheese and add your choice of toppings. 18

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FOOD

A bit on the side. How do you like yours? By Gemma Speekman

Hi! Side dishes here! Tucked at the bottom, shying away from the menu spotlight. Never first nor smack-bang in the middle. A footnote, an afterthought, the new savvy tuckedaway cash cow. As the cadences of the commission-laden question ‘Any sides?’ lands flat on the cloth, you realise you’ve literally just ordered one thing on a plate.

it. And let’s be honest, you might as well ‘go big or go home’ out on the side too. You’re in pizza-land, calories don’t matter now. Look forwards, not back. So how do – or should – you eat pizza? Let’s take it down a notch or two. How do you eat yours? Knife and fork? Fold in half (horizontal or vertical fold though?), rip it, roll it, inhale it? More to the point, what do you eat pizza with?? Everyone I asked during my research looked a bit puzzled, but then said ‘coleslaw’.

You’ve called the main, now you need us more than we need you. Sides. We shine in our own right now, no longer dumped ‘gratis.’ We are no longer in the ‘served with’ conveyer belt camp. But it’s hard to choose a side when it’s not chosen for you, isn’t it? In this ever-increasing ‘food amazement’ movement we’re in, pizza is no longer in the Pizza tastes better with company fast food convenience camp. It’s so much A bit of an aggressive first-person side-dish more than that – the dough quality and narrative here, you might think? Well, that’s crunch is crucial (but that’s a whole other because I want you to think about the side – article). For now, I’d go so far as to say you especially when you have a pizza. Most peo- should spend as much time and attention ple are so preoccupied with the topping that building the accompaniment. So let’s enthere’s no mention or even thought about a hance, contrast and accentuate each mouthside. Side obliteration. ful with the limitless possibilities on the side. Listen up, there’s plenty of room on that plate when there’s only a slice of pizza on 20

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My suggestions for mouth-watering pizza sides: PIZZA: Goats cheese, caramelised onion and roasted pumpkin SIDE: Slice fennel very thinly, add red cabbage, squash roasted cherry tomatoes into these, then sprinkle with nigella (also known as fennel flower) seeds. Toss all the ingredients with a splash of lemon juice, white wine vinegar and a slap of mayo. PIZZA: Capricciosa (ham, mushrooms, artichoke, egg) SIDE: Rocket and shaved parmesan. Splash with olive oil and a twist of balsamic vinegar, toss and serve. PIZZA: Rich pepperoni with jalapenos SIDE: Coleslaw! Thin slices of red and white cabbage with grated carrot and sliced white onion. Toss in rich mayonnaise, crĂ¨me fraiche and lemon juice. PIZZA: Fiorentina (spinach and egg) SIDE: Tomato and red onion salad with loads of chopped parsley. PIZZA: Hawaiian (ham and pineapple - itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ok to have fruit on a pizza, guys) SIDE: Chicory, cucumber and spring onion salad with a sprinkling of brown lentils and borlotti beans. PIZZA: Veggie SIDE: Little gem lettuces served whole with crispy bacon bits and crumbled blue cheese. Serve drizzled with blue cheese dressing.

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HEALTH AND NUTRITION

3 Ways to Keep Exercising Through the Winter by Denise Chester

Here are my top three suggestions:

Try something new

Heard the expression ‘a change is as good as a rest’? It’s not unusual to get bored with exercise, and the dark evenings can be the perfect excuse to give something up. But inMotivation and energy levels can be low. For stead of resting, try something completely lots of people, the run-up to Christmas can new, or go back to an activity you used to be one of the busiest and most stressful pe- enjoy at a different point in your life. riods of the year. Our time is taken up with planning, shopping and an increasing num- For example, if you’re used to going for a ber of social events. It’s a time when our ex- run in the evening, try joining a HIIT class ercise levels can drop dramatically. at your local gym. You’ll still get that feeling of an intense workout and might even burn As the days get shorter and colder, it can more calories. Loved basketball at school? become harder to motivate yourself to exer- Research your local area to find your nearest cise. The very fact that it’s dark outside by club. the time most people finish work can be a Or you could do something completely new: big problem. Those of you who like to run, join a dance class or a badminton club, take cycle and play sport outside can simply feel pole dancing lessons, learn karate or try init’s not safe, especially if you do it alone. door climbing. There are thousands of ways you can move your body. Finding one that But not exercising is the start of the long you love and that keeps you excited is key. walk to ill-health – so how do you motivate yourself to keep on moving? Even when all 2. Find your buddy, find your tribe you secretly want to do is curl up in your du- There’s a lot to be said for safety in numbers. vet with a hot cup of herbal tea? If the dark evenings are a barrier to your exercise routine, find someone to work out

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PICTURE CREDITS: shutterstock

It’s that time of year: we’re almost through autumn and heading towards full-on winter. It gets dark early, the heating’s on and we’re wearing PJs and socks to bed. Many of us just want to hibernate until the sun comes out again.

with. Join a club, search on social media or ask amongst your friends. Meeting someone who loves doing what you love can be the key to keeping active through the winter months.

But now there is widely-documented evidence that short workouts can be just as, or even more effective than longer ones. Ten minutes, three times a week can lead to weight loss, muscle growth and improved insulin sensitivity. It’s also far more attracNot only will you be safer if your training tive to most of us than hours of slogging it involves being outside, but exercising with out at the gym… someone else adds that crucial element of accountability. You can’t keep letting your Happy winter training! buddy or team down by cancelling, so you become much more likely to stick to your exercise commitments – for yourself and other people. Being part of a club or a team can bring a multitude of benefits. Humans thrive on connection and community, so playing a sport with a bunch of other people can have an amazingly positive effect on our mental health, as well as being a great motivator. It can also open up new relationships and opportunities to socialise.

Do less, more often

Try spreading your exercise over shorter sessions. When energy levels are low, your commute home is in darkness and you’re wrapped up in endless layers, exercise can be the last thing on your mind.

Although habits are changing, there’s still a subconscious perception that we should exercise for an hour at a time. Most classes last an hour, personal training sessions usually do, and many workout plans available online take you through an hour-long session at the gym. 24

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PICTURE CREDITS: shutterstock

Whether walking through the door after work, or trying to get out of bed at 6am, the idea of even 30 minutes of activity when it’s cold and dark can seem like a climb to Everest base camp. Sound familiar? Then a good strategy can be to break your exercise up into smaller blocks of time.

FOOD

Nectarine and Kale Pizza It’s not unusual to pair grapes, figs or even METHOD dates with a cheeseboard. So who says you can’t put fruit on a pizza dripping with 1. To make the dough, activate the yeast cheese? by dissolving the sugar in the warm water, adding the yeast and giving it a whisk. Leave This pizza combines sweet nectarines and for 15 minutes or until frothy. honey with creamy yet salty goat’s cheese 2. Sift the flour into a large bowl and add and a savoury hit from kale and basil. It’s the yeast, olive oil and salt and pepper to like no pizza you’ve ever tasted before but I season. guarantee you’ll be going back for more. 3. Stir until the mix forms a dough ball. 4. Turn out on to a clean surface and knead for 10-15 minutes, or until the surface of the dough is springy. INGREDIENTS 5. Put the ball of dough back into the For the dough bowl, cover and allow to prove for 30 mins to • 7g (1 sachet) fast action dried yeast 1 hour (or until doubled in size). • 1 tsp sugar 6. Pre-heat your oven to 300C and place • 150ml warm water a baking stone or baking tray inside. • 250g wholemeal flour 7. Place the nectarine slices onto a hot • 4 tbsp olive oil griddle pan and allow to char slightly. • Salt and pepper 8. Roll out the dough ball and stretch thin. For the toppings 9. Spread the passata over the dough • 4 tbsp tomato passata and sprinkle the dried herbs over evenly. • 1 tsp dried herbs 10. Tear the mozzarella into pieces and • 120g mozzarella dot over the passata. Repeat with the goat’s • 75g goat’s cheese cheese. • 8-10 slices of nectarine 11. Place the griddled nectarine slices • Small handful of kale over the cheese. • Basil 12. Finish with strips of kale. • Honey 13. Cook in a hot oven for 10 minutes or until the pizza is golden and the cheese melted. 14. Immediately before serving, add a few basil leaves to the top along with a drizzle of honey. Yum.

PICTURE CREDITS: Emma Walton

by Emma Walton

FOOD

Pad Ped Kai (Spicy Chicken Stir Fry) by Ying Bower

Ingredients:

1. Chicken breast (Kai in Thai) 2. Green bean 3. Half or 1 onion 4. Lime leaf (optional) 5. Red and green chilli 6. 2 cloves of garlic 7. Basil 8. 1 tbsp soy sauce or fish sauce 9. 1 tbsp red Thai chilli paste 10. 1 teaspoon of sugar 11. 1 tbsp oysters sauce (optional) 12. 1 tbsp oil

Method:

Cut the chicken into thin slices, cut green bean to 1-2 inches, slice onion nice and thin, crust garlic and cut the lime leaf to small pieces. Then heat the pan on a medium heat add the oil, then put garlic into fry for 5 seconds before adding the chilli paste into the pan and fry for 1 minute or until you can smell really the paste. Then add the chicken and fry for 2-3 minutes till the chicken nearly cooked making sure the paste isn’t burning, (you can add small amount of water to the pan to stop this). Then add the rest of the ingredients to the pan and fry for another 5 minutes making sure the chicken is cooked. Then just pour it on top of some steamed rice and enjoy. In this recipe you can use any meat you like, pork or beef alsoalso works really well.

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PICTURE CREDITS: Phil Bower

Being from Thailand I don’t really have a great pizza story or recipe that I can give you, but I think you will get enough of all that from this magazine anyway (LOL). So I’m here with my seasonal spicy delights, as ever from my homeland to St Albans, but this time we will be enjoying my spicy chicken stir fry to keep you nice and warm this winter.

GARDENING

Autumn into Winter by Emma de Sousa

mas period. Whether or not you celebrate Christmas, we all look forward to the winter break, spending time with loved ones and eating far too much food – it’s the one time of year when anything goes food-wise!

And more often than not, we drink far more than we should. I’m not a big drinker but there’s something about preparing Sunday That said, it’s also a hard time of year for me. lunch with a large glass of red or cheeky I struggle with the dark short days – as a flo- glass of port to hand. rist farmer I often get up in the wee small hours to start work. The winter is particu- One of my favourite jobs at this time of year larly harsh and I often feel a lack of energy is decorating people’s homes. Foliage swags and slight overwhelm at the never-ending on fireplaces, winter wreaths on doors – tasks for the year ahead. there is a plentiful bounty of goodies for the taking if you just look for them. Pine cones, I dislike wet windy days and the short day- berried foliage, twigs, seed pods and teasels, light hours, and feel frustrated when these even the odd feather or two to adorn your stop me going about my work at the cut- winter wreath. Use any foliage that’s green ting patch or allotment. But the days when and hardy – the more of a mixture, the betthe sun is shining are some of my favourite ter. times, enabling me to think and breathe… In my garden alone I can cut enough foliage I also love the preparation for the Christ- to make dozens of wreaths and decorate my 32

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PICTURE CREDITS: Emma de Sousa

For me, the changing of the seasons at this time of year brings some of my favourite things. I love watching the trees go through their amazing colour changes, bright sunny cold days, cosy nights in, making sloe gin to drink in front of an open fire with a good book and a slab of Stilton… To name but a few!

fireplace, so I’m sure if you look carefully you can find some too. Making your own wreath isn’t just satisfying, it’ll look better than the shop-bought versions. All you need is a round base (either a wire ring or make a willow base yourself), cover it in wet moss and make little ties of foliage to place along the ring wiring as you go. Then you can add extras like berried holly, dried cones or feathers, whatever takes your fancy. I love using bunches of chillies, teasels and twigs. Experiment and have fun – you’ll be amazed what you can produce! If you feel a little daunted about doing it yourself, why not book into a wreath-making workshop on offer from a local florist? You’ll be supporting local business AND spend a relaxing, enjoyable few hours learning a new skill. And of course, your friends will be super-impressed when they turn up for Sunday lunch to be greeted by your front door adorned with a rather glorious creation! Remember a wreath isn’t just for Christmas. They can look great any time of year, autumn or spring. Just use what nature’s larder provides…

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PICTURE CREDITS: Emma de Sousa

FOOD

Cooking with Kids by Samina Iqbal

Easy-Peasy Pizza INGREDIENTS

2 pitta breads (brown or white) Cheddar cheese Tomato puree Sometimes, however, you do need to be a Basil leaves little bit devious. If you introduce them to Olives (optional) the wonders of baking, then that’s all they’ll want to cook with you. Cakes, biscuits and METHOD cookies – and nothing else. Some kids are 1. Wash hands and teach your child how genuinely interested in the cooking process, to put the grill on. whilst others are fascinated by using the for2. Show them how to grate cheese with a bidden kitchen tools. Others are fussy eaters box grater – using long strokes from the top who need to be coaxed into trying new foods. downwards. Be careful they don’t grate their knuckles! Quick and easy wins the day 3. Lightly toast the pittas in a toaster on One of the best ways to entice your child a low setting, to get the bottom of the pizza into the kitchen is to prepare a food that’s warm. already a favourite, but find a simplified ver4. Place warm pittas on a baking tray. sion and make it at home. Making something 5. Squeeze a tablespoon of tomato puree quick keeps them interested, because they (or more if you prefer your pizza tomato-y) can see fast results. It’s a bonus for you too, on to the pitta and spread using the back of a as it means less time clearing up and they teaspoon. Make sure it gets to the edges. may want to ‘help’ again. 6. Cover the tomato-coated pitta with cheese. Obviously, this is to be encouraged – right 7. You can keep the first attempt as plain up until you reach the stage where they precheese or, if your household likes olives, pare dinner while you enjoy a nice cup of tea slice a few on top. or glass of wine with your feet up! 8. Grill for about 5 minutes until cheese melts and starts to turn golden. 9. Garnish with a few basil leaves – and enjoy!

PICTURE CREDITS: Samina Iqbal

Children are like sponges. By teaching them basic cooking skills, we give them essential survival skills. Not to mention save them from three years of eating Pot Noodles if they decide to go to university.

REVIEW

JERKMAICAN: A Burst of Sunshine in North London By Gemma Speekman

rubbery below-average toasties at extortionate rates. Unless you ‘BYOwn’ in the car, you make provision on a long car journey that you’re going to spend a lot of money ‘eating total rubbish and feeling like it afterwards’. The point is, fast food is a bit of a dirty word. Except when you stumble across little gems trying to make a difference and redefine it, like Jerkmaica. Now notching up its third eaterie in town (sites in Crouch End, Angel, plus its latest outing in Finsbury Park), the food’s so tasty you feel kind of bad labelling it ‘fast food.’

Would he say the same thing now? Given that was 15 years ago it’s surprising that actually yes, he’s not far off. Throw BK into the mix and the fast food offering is still pretty much the same. The lack of ready-made healthy choices when it comes to fast food is staggering in these more educated, health-conscious times and the ‘eat clean’ revolution. But that, in part, is founder Gary Bailey’s mission: to change the way we think about Granted, there’s Itsu and Pod and the occa- fast food and to bring the flavours of Caribsional Tossed dotted around big cities, but bean foods to the masses. Quick and conventhey don’t ripple that far out. You’ve only got ient doesn’t need to mean tasteless, unsatisto look at the predictable monopoly at work fying and awash with preservatives. (Check in every motorway service station to see the out the 10 year-old McDonald’s burger and one-dimensionality of it all. The carousel of fries that didn’t look that different – ugh.) the three heavyweights, plus new-kids-onthe-block Costa and Starbucks offering 38

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PICTURE CREDITS: Jerkmaica

‘Nothing but grey concrete and dead beats Grab something to eat Maccy D’s or KFC Only one choice in the city.’ Mike Skinner, The Streets, (Weak Become Heroes) 2002

So, Jerkmaica. I visited the founding site in Crouch End which is small and cosy, offering a relaxed vibe with its ambient lighting, reclaimed wood and laidback service. As you walk in, a smile and a welcoming bar are ready to serve you rum punch.

I’m sorry to say I can’t tell you about the brisket as it was sold out on the night we visited. Nor the desserts as, what with the mac ’n’ cheese and coleslaw and everything else, I had literally not a speck of room left. Except to fit in a rum punch digestif.

The signature dish here isn’t, as you’d expect from the title, jerk chicken. Rather it’s a traditional Caribbean flatbread (roti) served with a meat of your choice (goat, pork shoulder, honey or lemongrass chicken), seasoned rice and a delicious chana made of chickpeas – all rolled up together with your chosen salad on the side.

If you’ve got more time at the weekend, check out the Saturday brunch for steak and egg roti or egg and bacon roti. Or try the Sunday lunch offering for a serious uploading of carbs: roast potatoes, rice and peas, plantain and mac ’n’ cheese – and that’s only the sides! Also (parent bonus) they serve kids’ meals with not a sausage or fish finger in sight. Hurrah! If you ‘don’t have time’ (which is mostly actually a state of mind) to savour the aromatics, you can take away Jerkmaica’s own hot chilli and BBQ sauces. I’m not normally a fan of BBQ, but this particular sauce has a serious, curious depth of taste. Recommended. www.jerkmaica.com

PICTURE CREDITS: Jerkmaica

Before that delving, we overindulged in the irresistible halloumi tartare (so unique and so moreish) and the jerk chicken wings. So much so that we had to leave some of the roti. But it’s very good value for money, given it comfortably fed two and is priced under a tenner.

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REVIEW

An Introduction to Sour Beer By Jon Moore

Think you know what beer tastes like? Think again. Sour beers are rising in popularity, and might change your perception of what a beer can be.

Sour beer isn’t really a style itself, it’s more of a collection of styles, all categorised by their mouth-watering sourness. There are many different styles of sour beer, with lots of varieties featuring added fruit which gives It wasn’t too long ago that if a beer was sour, an extra dimension. it was considered flawed or ‘gone off’. Now, more and more brewers are intentional- Lambic ly brewing beers that range from tart and One of the most popular and traditional tangy to outright acidic. These beers taste styles of sour beer is Lambic. It’s produced nothing like the lagers and ales you might be around the Brussels area and generally has used to, and are appealing to new audiences, a sharp puckering sourness, a dry finish and including wine and cider drinkers. can have a ‘funky’ farmyard flavour.

Sour beers are made using wild yeasts and bacteria which brewing techniques have been developed to avoid, because their presence would be considered an ‘infection’ in other beer styles, causing undesirable off-flavours. 42

The magic of Lambic beer comes from spontaneous fermentation. Instead of adding yeast, the beer is exposed to wild yeasts in the open air and then slowly fermented in wooden barrels. Like a fine wine, the beer continues to develop in the bottle which makes the end product unpredictable, unique and delicious. The Lambic beer family contains a number of sub-styles. Common varieties include Gueuze, an effervescent blend of new and aged Lambic beers; Kriek, which is re-fermented with cherries; and Framboise, re-fermented with raspberries.

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PICTURE CREDITS: Jon Moore

Although it’s rapidly gained popularity in recent years, sour beer isn’t a new invention. Traditional brewers in Belgium and Germany have been producing sours for hundreds of years. In fact, before the advent of modern yeast and sanitation, all beers would have been sour.

Some traditional Lambic brewers are keen for their product to be offered legal protection similar to champagne, in that beer may only be called a Lambic if it is produced inside the traditional Lambic brewing regions of Belgium.

additions of salt and coriander. Many varieties include fruit, or other flavourful additions.

Examples available in the UK include Wild Beer Co.’s Sleeping Lemons, Magic Rock’s Salty Kiss (which features gooseberries), and The most widely available Lambic beers in Lemongrass Gose from Danish brewers To the UK are those produced by Boon and Lin- Øl who also brew the fantastically named demans and Timmermans (which tend to be Gose to Hollywood. sweetened). Other traditional producers include 3 Fonteinen and the highly sought-af- Everything Else ter Cantillon. There are loads of other varieties of sour beer available. Flanders Reds, such as DuchBerliner Weisse esse de Bourgogne, have a rich flavour not A sour wheat beer traditionally brewed in dissimilar to balsamic vinegar. Many sour Berlin, Berliner Weisse was once the city’s beers focus on their use of fruit, such as most popular beer style, but is now only Tropic Thunder from Swedish brewers Dugproduced by a handful of Berlin brewers. ges, which features mango, passion fruit and Thankfully the style has undergone a re- peach. naissance in recent years, with several craft brewers producing their own take on the Redchurch Brewery brews several fruitstyle. based sour beers as part of their Urban Farmhouse range, which is brewed and The beer is light, tart, refreshing, and has a macerated by foot in Bethnal Green. This relatively low alcohol content. It is soured includes In Barrels: Plums which is aged in using Lactobacillus which naturally produc- pinot noir barrels. es lactic acid in the beer, and is sometimes flavoured with fruit, including peaches, Sour beers have taken off in the UK and apricots, blueberries, lemons or pears – you are available online or from good qualiname it! ty bottle shops. Even the major supermarkets are catching on, with Tesco stocking In the UK look out for Siren’s Calypso, Mik- Thornbridge’s Tart, and M&S to stock Magic keller’s Hallo Ich Bin Berliner Weisse series, Rock’s Salty Kiss in the near future. If you Beavertown’s Phantom series, or Wild Beer haven’t tried sour beer yet, now is the time. Co’s Sourdough which is soured using a 58 year-old sourdough culture.

PICTURE CREDITS: Jon Moore

Gose

Gose beers originated in the German town of Goslar, and were historically very popular in Leipzig, before completely disappearing in the mid 1900s. Another style revived by modern craft brewers, they are similar to Berliner Weisse, but feature a gentler sourness which is traditionally complemented by www.cibare.co.uk

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HEALTH AND NUTRITION

Pizza, carbs, weight loss and health: can they go together? by Anne Iarchy

When I first heard the subject for this edition of Cibare, I wondered what to write about. After all, pizza isn’t the most straightforward subject to cover in relation to health, nutrition and weight loss. But is pizza really bad for us? And what about carbohydrates in general? Carbohydrates make up one of the three major food groups, or macronutrients. So they’re an important part of the building blocks of our body and our health. Carbohydrates provide the main source of fuel for the body. Our body, tissues and cells find it very easy to convert it into energy. But to become energy, carbohydrates first need to be converted into sugar/glucose. And that’s where we make the difference between good/complex carbohydrates and bad/simple carbohydrates. Simple carbohydrates convert very quickly into energy. Which is great for certain sports, but in day-to-day life we don’t want big spikes in energy or (more importantly) the dip afterwards. 46

And that’s one aspect of pizza. Traditionally pizza is made with white flour, which is a sort of simple carbohydrate. Does it instantly make pizza unhealthy? No. Firstly, there’s no reason why you couldn’t make pizza with a healthier alternative to white flour. Try wholemeal flour, spelt flour and many other options – as long as the gluten content is similar enough to bread flour to make the base a little bit elastic so it won’t break. So if we can make pizza with healthier flour, is it totally fine to eat pizza? The answer is still no. When planning a meal, we have to think about a healthy ratio between the three main food groups: carbohydrate, protein and fat. Here’s how I always tell my clients how to picture a healthy meal: • Divide your plate in two. • Half of the plate should be filled with vegetables, which are mainly a healthy source of carbohydrate, fibre and some protein.

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• Now divide the other half of the plate into three. • Two-thirds should be protein. • One-third should be what we consider a traditional carbohydrate i.e. bread, pasta, potatoes, rice etc. I bet you’re going to ask me about fats now, right? Well, if you cook with oil, or add nuts or avocado to your plate, that can be considered the fat content for your meal. Going back to our pizza, how does it fit into this picture? It doesn’t really. And that’s why pizza just doesn’t work in a healthy eating format. But this doesn’t mean we can’t ever eat it! Simply have a slice that would fill onethird of the second half of your plate. Nothing wrong with that. So there you go: a slice of pizza along with lots of vegetables and some protein is perfectly fine. Enjoy!

FEATURE

It’s A Cracker! by Roz Lishak

Secondly, there are some well-reviewed natural products on the market that your vet should be able to recommend.

You know your dog’s behaviour patterns better than anyone. Simply think about how nervous they may be over the coming weeks. Young dogs are particularly prone to picking It’s autumnal celebratory season. I call it that up on these night frights very early on, so try because the old-fashioned ‘Firework Night’ to build their confidence from the start. seems to have extended into a 3-month nightly noise-fest which runs from the end The quicker you can get them used to loud of October right through to New Year’s Eve. music or socialising in crowds, the earlier they develop the ability to cope, and the So how can we support our pets during this noises outside will seem less shocking. If all extraordinarily effervescent time of year? else fails just be reassuring and, most importantly, aware. Then get a nice mug of Firstly, I suggest some naturally calming camomile for you both to enjoy! drinks for your dogs to try. Camomile is one of nature’s de-stressers and it’s quite safe made up as a tea, cooled down and left for your dog to drink, or even mixed into their wet food. I’ve even tried baking treats with camomile to have on the side. It’s a good idea to let them sample it before the actual occasion too. 48

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PICTURE CREDITS: shutterstock

Well, actually, it’s no joke for pets at this time of year. We might enjoy a firework night filled with ooohs and aaahs, whooshes and bangs, and skies glowing with fabulous flashing lights. But have you stopped to consider that your pets may be cowering under the nearest piece of furniture for refuge?

HEALTH

Winter is Coming by Jo Farren

Winter is coming. Wonderful news if – like me – you love a crisp chill in the air, cosy fires in the evening, chunky knits and nourishing soups and stews.

• Strain the juice and voilà – onion syrup! Use red onions for children as they’re less pungent than white or brown ones. And throw in some thyme too if you like, it’s a The damp I’m not so keen on, because it fantastic herb for the upper respiratory stops me getting outside with the kids. And tract. it can also bring its fair share of germs and bugs with it. Even more so if there hasn’t Cold & Flu Remedy been an intense cold snap, so the atmos- (An oldie but a goodie!) phere is warm and moist: a perfect breeding • 1 tsp local or organic honey ground! • Juice of 1/2 lemon • Grating of fresh ginger to taste (TOP If you have children, it seems impossible to TIP: keep ginger root in the freezer, ready to avoid enduring at least one episode of snot grate finely when required) over the colder period. Some children are • 1 tsp of elderberry syrup (see below) generous enough to share their germs not Put all the ingredients in a mug and cover once, not twice, but for what feels like the with water just off the boil. Once it’s cool entirety of the darker months. enough to drink, enjoy! Avoiding illness seems like a mammoth task in itself, so let’s look at damage limitation for you and your family using my failsafe selfcare remedies.

Onion Syrup

Crushed Raw Garlic

Brilliant for coughs and colds, if you can tolerate it. Simply add crushed raw garlic to your meal. To take the pungent edge off, add it to cooked food.

Sounds nasty but it’s great for colds. Sinus Massage • Layer slices of onions in a jar with This is excellent for congestion. Start on the sugar or honey or agave syrup. bridge of your nose. Run your index fingers • Leave overnight. up and along the brow line to the outer 50

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corner of the eye. Then along the apples of Now the syrupy fun begins! the cheeks until you’re back at your nose. • For every pint of juice you’ve made, Repeat. measure ½ to 1lb of sugar. (Personally I’d opt for less sugar, but this means the next bit takes longer!) Steam Inhalations Add the juice and sugar to a pan, along You can try this using steam alone or with • with 3 cloves, a squeeze of lemon juice, a cinadded essential oils. Simply get a bowl of (tolerably) hot water, lean over, cover head namon stick, plus some ground ginger and nutmeg. and bowl with a towel, then relax. • Simmer for an hour (longer if you used Get someone qualified in the use of essen- less sugar) until the mixture starts to thicktial oils to recommend something safe and en. It’ll thicken a little more as it cools, so do appropriate for you. Don’t be scared to ask this slowly. Otherwise you’ll end up with jam (also utterly delicious but harder to pour, I about their qualifications and insurance. find). • Once you have your syrup, pour into Elderberry Rob Syrup sterilised glass bottles (amber or blue is best) Elderberries are usually ripe around September, but can be earlier or later in the sea- and store in a cool dark place. son depending on the summer weather.

In the absence of these, you can use any other edible berry or mix several types. Make sure you check they’re edible – elderberries, blackberries, rosehips and sloes are all fine. And they’re all full of vitamin C which is what makes them a fabulous cold remedy!

To use, simply add 1 teaspoon of syrup to a cup of hot water – it’s perfect for colds and boosting that immune system. This wonderful elixir is also suitable for children at a lower dose (just ask me for advice) but of course it does contain sugar. How much is entirely up to you and how impatient you get in the making process…!

First we make a juice. • Take your picked berries and pull them from the plant using a fork. • Place in a saucepan and cover with water - just enough to ensure the berries don’t stick. • Bring to the boil and simmer for about 20 minutes. • Mush up the berries in the water – you want to make an elderberry juice at this stage. • Get an old muslin cloth and strain the juice/berry mush. You may want to wait until it cools a bit. • Discard the berry skins (and probably the muslin, it’ll be bright purple by now).

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BOOKS

Season’s Eatings by Gizzi Erskine by Rebecca Stratton

The Halloween section features a great recipe for a coq au vin pie with a spooky face on top. Chicken, bacon and wine cooked until tender and topped with a beautiful butter crust. I made this last year for our annual Halloween dinner and it went down so well my dinner guests have been asking for me to make it again this year. It also has some playful recipes including a spider web cake and ‘bloody’ meringue bones.

dients and US Thanksgiving. Blueberry cobbler, clam bake, creamed corn and the most heavenly-looking buffalo cauliflower with blue cheese. Festive Baking is up next with a not-so-traditional chocolate fruit cake, gingerbread latte cake (er... hello!), orange Earl Grey mince pies (just when you thought you’d seen every variation) and one of my favourites, a traditional Jewish cheesecake. Gizzi urges us to ‘bring back the buffet’ this festive season with favourites such as Christmas ham, chicken pate, curried eggs and parmesan snowflakes.

The Night Before Christmas is inspired by European Christmas traditions in countries such as Italy where the ‘night before’ celebrations are just as important as the big day itself. Baked whole salmon and salmon en The Firework Night section features croute are good options the night before a everything you could possibly want to eat heavy Christmas dinner! outside at this time of year: ‘Nduja sausage rolls, cheddar and potato pasties, pumpkin The Main Event – Christmas Day chapter doughnuts and epic hot chocolate, to name gives tips on how to get organised up to three a few. The accompanying photos are stun- months before (I wish), plus a handy schedning. ule for cooking Christmas dinner. Why not start with a glass of something special like The Celebrating the Harvest chapter is a a charred blood orange mimosa? Yes please! mash-up of harvest festival, seasonal ingre54

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PICTURE CREDITS: Gizzi Erskine

I most definitely feel at home with the autumn and winter cooler months: I love the type of cooking and seasonal ingredients associated with this time of year. So I was really excited when this book was released late in 2016, as it’s a celebration of food and feasting from Halloween to New Year. Just the type of cosy cookbook I’ve been waiting for my whole life!

She covers two turkey and three stuffing recipes, plus alternatives like goose, and a host of sides, sauces and gravies. There’s a Christmas pudding and a clementine ginger trifle, plus a cheese board from heaven whose photo needs a double page! And there’s a chapter for turning all of this into a leftovers feast. I absolutely adore this book. It really celebrates a time of year when we are (for once) expecting the weather we get in the UK! Sometimes it’s just lovely to stay in, cook a great meal and celebrate being indoors with the ones you love. This book completely encompasses that wonderful feeling. Another great book, Gizzi. Keep them coming.

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