The Symbolism & Glory of Challah

By Gilly Balcombe

Challah – the delicious, pillowy bread so keenly anticipated throughout the working week by Jews all over the world. Baked specifically for the Sabbath, it has a long and rich history, as rich as the dough it’s made from. In fact, there are probably as many versions of this history as there are of the loaf itself.

If you live in London, or any other city where there is a decent sized Jewish community, you’ve probably tasted challah. For those who haven’t, I can only compare its flavour and texture to that of a scrumptious French plaited brioche or ‘tresse’, made from a yeast dough enriched with eggs and sweetened with a little sugar, though challah isn’t usually as sweet as brioche.

This symbolic and special bread is traditionally eaten by Jewish people on the Sabbath and other important festivals. It was first mentioned in the Torah, or Old Testament, as representing the ‘manna’ or bread that fell from the sky and fed the ancient Israelites during their 40-year desert trek. Once their long trek was over, it is said that God decreed that whenever they made bread for the Sabbath, they would set aside a portion of the dough as an offering at the temple, to demonstrate how grateful they were to have been allowed into the Holy Land. Making this ritual offering became the task of the wives and daughters who baked the bread, and the small piece became known as ‘challah’. It symbolises gratitude to this day, and the making, blessing and eating of challah heralds the beginning of the Sabbath, the seventh day of the week when no work is permitted, or of a holy festival. For this reason, the person who recites the blessing for the bread tears off small pieces from the loaf which are then distributed to all those round

From the Middle Ages and beyond, Jewish housewives in countries such as Austria, Germany and Poland adopted the plaited style of loaf that was made by their non-Jewish counterparts for Sunday celebrations. Thus, the bestknown variety of challah is the braided Ashkenazi style that is traditionally used on the Sabbath, or ‘Shabbat’, from the Hebrew word for seven. The woven ropes of dough are said to symbolise unity, and the 12 mounds that distinguish the challah are said to represent 12 loaves, one for each of the 12 tribes of Israel.

Here’s the recipe I use for this classic Shabbat treat, with thanks to Lisa Roukin of My Relationship with Food for the original recipe. It may look long and complicated, but she has cleverly broken the process up into bite-sized bits and I promise it’s a lot easier than you may think.

Yeast, a little sugar, salt and white flour are mixed together before egg and sunflower oil are added. Sunflower or other vegetable oil is used so that the loaf is ‘parve’, made with neither milk nor meat products, so that Jews who observe the dietary laws, or ‘Kashrut’, can eat it with either form of meal. Once the dough has been kneaded, it’s proved and kneaded again, then plaited or formed into its relevant shape, then proved again. It’s brushed with an egg wash and often sprinkled with sesame or poppy seeds, resulting in a glorious pillowy bread with a gleaming, goldenbrown crust studded with seeds. There’s even a story behind the flour that’s used: although these days many artisan bakers produce challah using wholewheat or seeded flours, traditionally refined strong white is the flour of choice. In days of yore (or as my kids would say, before even I was born) unrefined flour was the standard for regular bread: making your challah with the far more costly refined white flour demonstrated how special it was, and the sanctity of Shabbat.

Ingredients to make two medium challahs: For the dough: 900g strong white bread flour, plus extra for when kneading & braiding (although try not to add too much, as it will make the mixture dry) 30g fresh yeast or 20g instant dried yeast, dissolved in 100ml lukewarm water (I tend to use dried yeast for the sheer convenience of keeping it in my cupboard, but you can get the fresh stuff from most supermarkets or bakeries) 105g golden caster or caster sugar 260ml lukewarm water 80ml oil sunflower oil or light olive oil, plus some extra for greasing your bowl 2 large eggs 1 egg yolk 10g salt

For the glaze: 1 large egg, beaten with ½ tbsp water Sesame seeds and / or poppy seeds are traditionally used, or none at all if that’s your preference.

Method: 1. In a medium size bowl, combine the yeast (crumble if using fresh) and 100ml lukewarm water, together with the sugar then leave to stand for 10 minutes. The yeast will begin to activate and you will see the liquid start to froth and foam.

2. Sift the flour into a large bowl, then add the activated yeast liquid together with 260ml lukewarm water, sunflower oil, eggs and egg yolk. Knead the mixture either by hand or using the dough hook attachment on an electric mixer for 10 minutes – the dough will go from being a rough, shaggy mix to a lovely smooth ball. 3. Add the salt, then continue kneading for an extra 5 minutes until it is thoroughly mixed into the dough. 4. Brush the inside of a large, clean mixing bowl with a little sunflower oil, then form your dough into a large ball and pop it into the bowl, brushing it all over with a little more oil to stop it sticking. 5. Cover the bowl with oiled cling film or a clean kitchen towel and leave it to rise in a warm place for between 1 and 1½ hours, so that the dough doubles in size. If you have a proving option on your oven, set the temperature at 40°C. 6. Leaving the risen dough in the bowl, use your fists to “punch” the air out of it (known as ‘knocking back’), then carefully turn it onto a clean work surface that has been lightly dusted with flour, if needed. I usually place a silicon mat on my work surface, which makes the dough less like to stick so that less additional flour is required. 7. Knead the dough for 5 minutes and, using the palm of your hand, push all the air bubbles out of it, alternating between your left and right hand as you knead. If you prefer, you can use an electric mixer fitted with dough hook set on a low speed, but for me this little period of kneading feels really therapeutic. Once the dough is soft and smooth, shape it into a ball then cover it with a clean tea towel and leave it to rest for 5 minutes. 8. Pre-heat the oven to 400°F, gas mark 6, 200°C, 180°C (fan) and if you wish, place an oven-proof dish, filled with water, on the bottom to create steam which help your bread achieve a lovely crust. Line a large baking tray with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat, or two trays if you’re making two challahs. 9. To make two challahs, divide your mixture in half using a sharp knife or dough cutter and set one half aside whilst you shape the first. 10. Shape the dough into a log, then leave it to rest for a minute or two, before cutting it into equal portions for the number of strands you want to plait. That is, three portions for three strands, four portions for four strands and so on. If you’re new to making challah, it’s best to start with a three-strand braid and work your way up. There are lots of easy-to-follow videos on YouTube that will help you perfect your technique. 11. Press any remaining air bubbles out of each portion of dough, then work it very gently, rolling it under your palms using very little pressure, until you have a strand that is approximately 30cm long. 12. Place the prepared strands sideby-side on your worksurface and firmly press the tops together so that they are attached. Now you can start braiding! Do this exactly as you would if you were plaiting hair, making sure that your braid is tight, but not so tight that the dough is stretched. Once you’ve completed your plait, pinch the ends of the strands together and gently tuck them just underneath the loaf. Then repeat the process for the second challah with the remaining half of the dough. 13. Place your challahs onto the prepared baking trays, then cover each

one with a clean tea towel and allow them to rise until they have doubled in size – this will take 20 to 30 minutes depending on how warm your kitchen is. It’s not necessary to prove them in the oven at this stage. 14. To glaze the loaves, beat one egg together with one tbsp of water in a small bowl, and then brush this mixture over the entire exposed surface of your loaves. 15. Once you’ve egg washed the loaves you can, if you wish, sprinkle them with your choice of sesame and / or poppy seeds. Place the trays in the oven and bake the challahs for 24 to 25 minutes for the two medium challahs. And the reason for two challahs? This harks back to belief that, every Friday before the Sabbath, a double portion of manna fell from heaven to last the wanderers through the holy day without breaking the prohibition to work. 16. If you prefer to make one very large challah you should bake it for 35 to 40 minutes. Either way, remove the bread from the oven when it has a glossy, golden-brown crust and set to cool on a wire rack. Resist for as long as you can and then enjoy!

Each particular festival has its own tradition as regards preparing your challah. At Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year), the loaves are formed into a round shape to signify the continuity of life, and pieces are dipped in honey and eaten before the festive meal to express one’s hopes for a sweet year ahead. For Yom Kippur (the holiest day in the Jewish calendar, the Day of Atonement), they can be baked in the shape of a ladder to denote high hopes for the months to come. At Simchat Torah, when the end and the beginning of the annual reading of the Torah, that is the complete cycle, are celebrated, challahs are round and baked with dried fruit and other sweet ingredients. Such goodies as walnuts, maple syrup, small pieces of apple, raisins and numerous other treats spring to mind. The only festival where challah doesn’t make an appearance is Pesach, or Passover, but that’s another story.

There is so much symbolism that surrounds challah and it is so revered in Jewish culture that it is deemed to have its own specific characteristics. When the challahs are placed on their board on the Shabbat or festive table, they are covered with a beautifully designed and made challah cloth: this is apparently to shield them from feeling less important when the first blessing is recited over the wine. No matter, it’s the challah that all the kids and all your guests will make a beeline for!

I’ve covered the cultural and religious symbolism that is associated with challah, but I also have to say this bread is one of the most incredibly versatile vehicles for food that I’ve ever come across. It makes wicked, luscious bread and butter pudding, it’s the best for ‘eggy bread’ every time (don’t forget the cinnamon!). Forget smoked salmon bagels, a smoked salmon challah sandwich wins hands down, whether you make it with butter or with cream cheese. Toasted with lashings of butter, or used for cheese on toast… I could go on, but I think you get my drift. Go bake or buy your challah now (and not one of those industrial ones the supermarkets sell, go to a Jewish or kosher style artisan bakery) and you will never regret it… though your waistline may!

Suggested London bakeries for wonderful challah and other scrumptious baked goods! Karma Bread, 13 South End Road, Hampstead, London, NW3 2PT Daniel’s Bakery, Hallswelle Parade, 12-14 Finchley Rd, London, NW11 0DL Carmeli, 126-128 Golders Green Rd, London, NW11 8HB