The Barber Magazine January 2021 by Cogent Multimedia Ltd

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JANUARY 2022

The Interiors Issue Featuring: J. Clark Walker, Chris Foster, Pall Mall Barbers and more…

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BEARDS

SKINCARE

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BUSINESS

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Editor’s Letter

, 2, 1... Happy New Year! I hope that everyone had as much fun as we all have been over here at the Barber Magazine! We can’t wait to ring in the new year with you all, bringing a warm start to 2022. To kick things off, we’re taking a huge look into interiors and how you can utilise your barbershop aesthetic to bring in more clients and revenue. Be sure to check it out from page 11. Ash Curtis of Fraternity, an award-winning barbershop located in the heart of Beverley, talks us through how to create a manageable, thick and full hairstyle on page 28. From page 31 you can find our education and training focus, where big names such as Chris Foster provide an insight into how training can benefit your barbering business. From myself and everyone else here at the Barber Magazine, we hope that you had a fantastic holiday and have a great start to 2022! Editor

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JANUARY 2022

The Interiors Issue

Featuring: J. Clark Walker, Chris Foster, Pall Mall Barbers and more… HAIR

BEARDS

SKINCARE

SHAVING

On the cover

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BUSINESS

The Great British Barber Bash (@greatbritishbarberbash) Photographer: Mark Shirley (@mark_shirley1) Barber: Exaucé Imbo (@exthebarber)

22 4

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42 Editor Connor Jenkins connor@cimltd.co.uk Editorial Assistant Emily Milton emily@cimltd.co.uk Sales Director Tom Woollin tom@cimltd.co.uk

34 22 24 28 32 42 8 11 31

Publication Manager James Davies jamesd@cimltd.co.uk 01795 509 102

REGULAR FEATURES: Barbershop of the Month: Richard Marshall talks us through one of the oldest barbershops in London..

Design and Production Grant Waters, James Taylor 01795 509 108

Barbers Around the World: J. Clark Walker shares his story.

Administration Manager Lauren Sharpe admin@cimltd.co.uk 01795 509103

Create This Style: Ash Curtis gives us a step-by-step guide on a classic cut. Rising Star: George Smith of Toni&Guy, Salisbury talks us through his incredible barbering journey.

Marketing Manager Paris Kennelly paris@cimltd.co.uk

Lookbook: Emily Milton shares her favourite images of the month.

DIGITAL & WEB DEVELOPER Matt Coppard

UNIQUE FOR JANUARY Cover Story: We talk with some of the winners from the Great British Barber Bash. Interiors: Want to know how to make the most out of your barbershop interior? We talk with some industry professionals so you don’t have to. Education & Training: We dive into why you should consider looking into education with for your business. /BarberMagazine

Managing Director John Denning © 2022 CIM Online Limited, 1st Floor, Saphir House, 5 Jubilee Way, Faversham, Kent, ME13 8GD. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope. Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to CIM Online Limited. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

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Industry Update

Fellowship holds its inaugural PROJECTS Grand Finale

he Fellowship for British Hairdressing held its inaugural Grand Finale for its Projects that have had a year of mentoring and training. President Ken Picton, who hosted the night, said: “We couldn’t do this without our mentors who give up their time to spend a day with the team members, imparting their knowledge and expertise to the next generation of hairdressers and barbers.” PROJECT: Men outgoing leader, Jonathan Andrew, handed over the

helms to new leader Simon Shaw, Creative Director from Wahl, before announcing the THREE finalist for the

Achiever of the Year Award. The Project leaders all announced their three finalists for the Achiever of the Year Award.

Covid haircuts pay off for barbery

luxury Brisbane barbery has reported unprecedented success despite two years’ worth of COVID-19 uncertainty with a revenue increase of 60% since the start of the pandemic. Following the opening of two additional inner-city studios over the past two years to keep up with demand, the flagship Langanis Barber in West End will undergo a major refit, and

all three studios will be rebranded to accommodate the increased patronage that extends beyond traditional barbery. A vibrant local brand launched only five years ago, Langanis Barber will soon be known as the overtly inclusive Langanis Studio to cater to a growing female clientele of those seeking the same upmarket, immersive experience that Brisbane men have come to love.

HIVE® acquires PASHANA®

IVE® of Beauty Ltd are delighted to announce the acquisition of heritage barbering brand PASHANA®. “We would like to thank DENMAN® International Ltd for providing us with the opportunity of becoming the proud owners of a barbering icon and recognising our potential to evolve a brand that since 1910, has been the

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essence of barbering.” HIVE® of Beauty Ltd will now take over the distribution of the PASHANA® brand with immediate effect. PASHANA® now sits proudly next to the HIVE® and ORITREE® brands in our portfolio and represents a significant and exciting extension to our product offering. @thebarbermagazine

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PRODUCTS

Opie’s Beard Co.

Our Premium Range beard oil samples are a perfect way to try out each scent before buying a larger oil. These oils come in 2ml glass vials. With a base of Jojoba, Argan and Grapeseed oil this is about as luxurious as a beard oil can get. The scents available are: The Filthy Grin - a blend of Lavender, Cedarwood, Geranium and Petitgrain that gives off a Manly Woodsman scent. The Barista - A blend of Coffee and Vanilla that gives off a fantastic creamy latte coffee scent. The Greedy Men - a blend of Cypress, Vanilla, Juniperberry and Tea tree that gives off a fresh Vanilla scent with a warm undertone. Sherbet Lemon - As you may have guessed this scent is a Sherbet Lemon (Lemon Drop) sweet scent. We are also offering FREE U.K shipping on our sample oils. RRP: £2.00

The Bluebeards Revenge

Neäl & Wølf

Calm your skin after a traditional wet shave with the soothing powers of our Post-Shave Balm Refill Pouch! This eco-friendly 500ml refill pouch contains our specially formulated balm boosted with witch hazel, aloe vera and chamomile. These essential ingredients are the ultimate key to keeping skin irritation at bay after every shave. It provides up to three full refills of our reusable Post-Shave Balm. The Aluminium Tin can be widely recycled after use. Original Scent: a fresh and masculine blend of Madagascan vanilla, classic sandalwood and patchouli. Size: 500ml RRP: £29.99

Revive your stressed-out hair with RESTORE. Made and produced in the UK, Neäl & Wølf RESTORE nourishing treatment for men revives even the most parched locks. It’s enriched with a unique blend of intensive conditioners, designed to effortlessly repair, replenish and revitalise your clients’ hair. The result? Brittle barnets get an instant boost of hydration, for a finish that’s full of shine and easier to style. Better still, this thirst-quenching formula is free from sulfates and parabens, so it keeps hair healthy, no matter the hair type. To stock Neäl & Wølf RESTORE treatment for men, email info@salonpromotions.co.uk RRP: £31.75

Stylish Duke

Texturising sea salt mist is a product everyone needs in their haircare and styling routine. The slick, black bottle with the classic white logo holds inside the aroma of coconut and the power to help create any style in short or long hair. How to use: On towel dried hair spray three or four times. Work it all throughout the hair for even distribution. You can let it dry naturally for that surfer look or use a hair dryer to create some more volume and lift. When dry, use your fingers to create some more separation. RRP: £10.00

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Dear Barber

It’s back! Our much-loved aromatic Eau De Toilette is a masculine, vintage-inspired fragrance with an invigorating fresh, spicy twist. Containing top notes of Bergamot with hints of Musk, Vanilla and Leather, and packaged in a classic amber bottle, it’s the perfect finishing touch to any grooming regime. “With Confidence”, our signature fragrance. An intense, daring scent for the 21st century gent. RRP: £25.00

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COVER STORY

The Great British Barber Bash

With two shows down in 2021 and the upcoming venture in Scotland, we caught up with Garry Spencer of the Great British Barber Bash, alongside the London and Liverpool Barber Battle winners, to discuss what’s in store for them.

iverpool’s Barber Bash was an amazing day with over 700 attendees, with an extraordinary venue and a buzzing atmosphere. The event promoted industry positivity, and the feedback from attendees has been nothing short of amazing. First up on the stage for the day were Micky Graham, Ollie Foster, Callum Butler, and George Knight, who presented some amazingly creative cuts. Garry Spencer said: “The crowd was ‘wowed’ with the superb demonstrations. The energy was in abundance with this group.” Shortly after the first lineup, Dino Anthony, Jen Winters, and Brodie Raeside took to the stage. “This crew presented a mixture of precision fades, mullets, and classic looks. Diversity in this section was the key. It was great to see so many different methods and formulas.” Garry commented. The third group to hit the stage consisted of Kyle Rowland, Cal Newsome and Ryan Cullen. “This trio were totally on-point with their street-ready styles. Each team member had a different approach, and it’s always great to see varied techniques.” Added Garry. The climax of the presentation section was an amazing trio of demos from Josh Lamonaca and his MENSPIRE team. Garry said: “The crowd loved all the cuts, especially the photographic section which concluded their time on stage.” But what’s next for the infamous Great British Barber Bash? You’ll be able to catch the next event up in Glasgow. The event will consist of an amazing day

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COVER STORY of barbering culture, education, and socializing. Four teams will be presenting the latest trends, styles, and techniques on stage. Just some of the amazing exhibitors included, but not limited to, in the lineup will be Osmo, Sakura Scissors, DART Professional, Salons Direct, Scissor Guru, Yoi Sharpening, and many more. Garry tells us a little more: “The room will be action-packed with over 70 barbers cutting around the venue throughout the day. People will be travelling from across the UK and Europe to present their work. It is our aim, always, to give as many people as possible an opportunity to be part of our event. “The day will climax with our usual massive Barber Battle. It will be a twenty-minute fast fade competition, and the cleanest fade will win. We will be awarding a huge prize, worth in excess of £2500, of goodies to the winner and runner-up. It will be an amazing spectacle, and we hope to have fifty or more barbers going head-to-head to take home the trophy and, of course, the bragging rights!” Finishes Garry. The Glasgow Barber Bash is looking to be one of the biggest barbering events we’ve ever seen. But what can we expect from the phenomenal Barber Battle? Nothing but an experience that attendees won’t soon forget, that’s for sure! We spoke with Ismaeel Nawaz (@magicfades1), who was the winner of the London Barber Battle last year, to find out a little about their experience: “My win at the GBBB was phenomenal.

It was such a great experience, meeting a widespread of other barbers. It was a pretty close call, but in the end, I came in first place, joining Josh Lamonaca next to the trophy! Overall, the experience of winning out of forty other talented and experienced barbers was crazy. “Working with GBBB has made an impact to my name and has made people want to see me at the barbershop I work at. People appreciate me more, and it is now going into my local newspaper which is pretty cool!” In the future, you’ll be able to catch Ismaeel staying on track with their barbering, hoping to own a barbershop of their very own in a couple of years. Next up, we speak with Emi Bertea

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(@emibertea), owner of Emi Bertea Barbershop Academy and winner of the Liverpool Great British Barber Bash Barber Battle 2021. “I am from Romania and came the UK in 2014 to make a better life for myself. I was only 21 years old, and I always knew I could do much better, but didn’t figure it out till one night I had a dream. I dreamed I was a barber, and it felt so good! The next day on my bus journey to work, I started to watch haircut tutorials. “This year, I had the great pleasure of participating at the Great British Barber Bash. However, four days before the show I, broke my left hand… I decided to go despite the circumstances, and I won! First place! “This was a huge lesson for me, and I’ve realised that years of experience, dedication, skills and passion were well worth it. If you have a dream, then believe in yourself, work as hard as you can, invest in your knowledge and trust the process.” The Glasgow show promises to be an amazing day in one of the most vibrant cities in the UK. Tickets are available soon from www.greatbritishbarberbash. co.uk Follow @greatbritishbarberbash

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Scan here to become a Dear Barber stockist

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Interiors Curious as to how an outstanding barbershop interior can bring in some new clientele and potentially boost business? We talk with some industry pros to ﬁnd out more. Photo by Oriol Pascual.

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INTERIORS – ESSENTIAL FIVE

Joe’s top tips

From choosing the right lighting to a colour palette that matches your brand and concept, there’s a myriad of decisions to make when refitting or opening a barbershop. Session stylist Joe Mills opened his eponymous salon, Joe and Co in London’s Soho more than 12 years ago and has just undergone a major refit thanks to a severe flood during lockdown. Here’s his top five tips for creating a fabulous interiors.

The Concept Before you even start, you need to plan out the salon floor. How much space do you have, where are you positioning stations and furniture, how many power points do you need and where? These plans will save you time and money in the long run.

Budget Set a realistic budget from the outset, but be prepared to run over. There are always unwelcome surprises and things that need changing with any project so have a fund that you can dip into when needed. When choosing furniture it’s worth investing in the best – we used Takara Belmont basins and chairs in Joe and Co. If you need to cut spend, look at other areas of the refit but not the furniture. It’s used the most in the shop and needs to stand the test of time. You don’t want to have to buy new chairs every year because they’re broken or stained.

Inspiration Don’t be afraid to look outside the box for inspiration. By all means look at other barbershops and what works for them, but also look at designer stores, retail outlets… European barbershops are doing great things right now. Bring all your inspirations together and you’re bound to get a creative spark for your own design.

Client journey You’re designing a salon that needs to be enjoyable for the client as well as the team who work there. So, put yourself in your client’s shoes and walk through the door. What do you look at, where do you walk to, make it as easy as you can to ensure they enjoy the whole experience when they visit you.

Music The right music sets the ambience for the barbershop so choose wisely. Think who your clientele is; classics always work well, but avoid anything too hardcore. And don’t forget to get your PPR and PRS licenses. Find out more about Joe Mills: www.joemills.net; www.theloungesoho.co.uk

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INTERIORS

Takara Belmont

Katie Wrighton, National Sales Manager at Takara Belmont (UK) Ltd. talks us through Takara Belmont after reaching its Centenary in 2021. Their contribution to barbering and evolution from a humble family business into a major force in the global salon industry cannot be underestimated.

rom the outset, their focus on superior materials, classic design and leadingedge manufacturing laid the foundation for a Century of groundbreaking innovation, which has produced some of the world’s most iconic products. It’s also earned Takara Belmont a reputation for unrivalled quality and benchmark service. Grooming chairs like the Apollo 2 have come to symbolise international barbering. Famed for its iconic design, strength and reliability, recent years have seen the addition of the Apollo 2 Elite

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and Apollo 2 Icon that have extended its popularity from high street barbershops to the highest echelons of luxury men’s grooming. This philosophy is evident across the entire range; from the traditional Dainty, GT Sportsman and Legacy 95 to the pinnacle of motorised innovation in the form of the Legend, Inova EX and Maxim. Along with furniture and accessories, Takara Belmont has come to define modern barbershop experiences.

Why design is important

Whether it’s a team member working

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in the barbershop, a barber looking for a new job, or a client popping in for a grooming service, the way your salon looks and feels has an effect on how people perceive you. With clients evermore discerning in their expectations, they want to value the place where they spend their time and money. The ambience of your barbershop defines their experience, and it makes a statement about the quality of service they’re likely to receive. Create an interior that attracts people and you’ll instill confidence in your clients. But, If your shop looks cheap and untidy, and

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to a restaurant, and who wouldn’t walk by a restaurant with tatty furniture, dirty floors and dowdy decor?

Improving your barbershop interior if it feels like you don’t care about it, customers may well assume you don’t invest in the quality of your expertise either!

How interior design increases footfall

Today’s customer is looking for a grooming experience, not just a quick in-and-out haircut. Men want luxury and they want their visit to represent an investment in themselves. The environment in which they receive their service is all part of the experience, and when clients leave feeling better than when they arrived, it’s the best kind of PR. Get it right and they’ll tell others nothing but positive things. Get it wrong and the same customer won’t hesitate warning off their friends, family and colleagues. In this respect it’s no different

The scope to improve your interior can range from the simple and relatively inexpensive to a complete reinvestment. A regular spruce up with paint, polish and basic interior touches, such as great pictures and furnishings is not that hard to do to ensure the comfort of your clients when waiting for, or receiving a service. Ensure they receive a warm welcome, provide quality refreshments and reading material, and make sure every part of their experience is choreographed to make them feel valued and special. However, if you really want to accelerate your potential, why not go for a complete redesign? Look at the local area to see what it needs. What’s missing and how can you fill the void with a barbershop that’s truly original, and gives your locale what it wants and needs. Barbers are a hub of the community, so how can you appeal to people, so

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customers will want to come and barbers will want to work there?

Accelerate your business with FREE Salon Design

Takara Belmont’s FREE* Salon Design service has created awe-inspiring interiors. With decades of expertise, they also factor in commercial considerations to optimise your shop’s footprint and introduce equipment and accessories that will maximise turnover and profit from your space. Few brands have done more than Takara Belmont to bring furniture, equipment and Salon Design that stands the test of time, as well bringing a partnership philosophy to every project. Discover Takara Belmont and put your barbershop on the road to success. Discover more at www.takarahairdressing.co.uk Call 020 7515 0333 email: hairdressing@takara.co.uk *FREE Salon Design is subject to T&Cs. See website for details.

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INTERIORS

Inside and out

This month we’re taking a long, hard look at what makes a barbershop interior desirable to clients. Sound daunting? Have no fear! Some industry pros are here to guide us through it all.

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ot only does a swanky barbershop interior show your clients that you’re willing to put in the effort for a little paint job on your barbershop, but it also goes hand in hand with your brand as a whole. It will help set a president for your clients who visit, giving them a visual aid to accompany all of the talk they’ve no-doubt heard about your fantastic range of products and services. Even your staff’s clothing, eg. a uniform, could be classed as a visual addition to an appealing barbershop interior. It’s not uncommon that you may need a change up to what you’re used to, simply to get to grips with a whole new vibe or aesthetic. Joe Mills (@ joemillshair), Session Stylist and Owner of Joe and Co, Soho (@joeandcosoho) in London tells us a little about why he recently chose to bring a whole new look to his shop: “How we create the atmosphere and feel of our spaces is driven by all of these new additions to the shop. The music is important to help, along with the visual feel of the space. The furniture, layout and how our clients feel is key to our brand. Clients have an expectation, and we try to meet that on

all fronts.” With Joe and Co, Soho now on their third premises, it’s easy to see where their fantastic aesthetic comes from. After an accident involving a flood for a few months, Joe thought that it was about time to re-visit the branding of all the locations, bringing a whole new angle in September 2021. “We have always been very minimalist in our approach, but with this refurb I wanted to take it up a notch. We wanted to reuse and up-cycle as much as possible. The chairs and sinks are all from Takara Belmont, as with all of our shops, but we have added some vintage furniture pieces along with acousticpanelled walls to really create a unique space.” Joe continues. The experience of a unique spin on a barbershop is enough to entice any customer who fancies a stroll past your shop, so why not try to earn some extra footfall in doing so? Joe insists that you should be constantly thinking of visual ways that you can make your barbershop stand out from the crowd: “We do this through the music, vibe, add-on services, products and how we choose the team. Those all lead to client loyalty and return business.

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“Think about your clientele or what you want to attract. This applies to what team you are looking for as well. The shop is a brand so think about this, then you can come up with a concept. It’s not about copying, it’s more about what inspires you and what you want to create. Think about the client journey from the moment they visit your website or social media, to the moment they walk out the door.” Said Joe. It’s important to keep in mind that it’s about being a part of a team. How can you ensure that, as you’re building your brand visually, you’re also considering how your staff operate too. At the end of the day, you want to simply ensure that it’s a possibility. “Plan it well and keep control of your budget. Also, think about the amount of time involved. Will you have to close? Map it out on a floor plan and do your research!” Finishes Joe. Moving on from why it could be important to re-brand your barbershop, how do you go about ensuring that the fine details are well-kept? Now that we’re back on track after the world seemingly came to an end after COVID-19, clients will be steadily coming back into the world and it’s our duty, as people who work in the barbering industry, to ensure

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INTERIORS

that our places of business hold up to the new high standards in this post-COVID world. Something that isn’t often considered when thinking “interiors” is how your barbershop can smell, and be hygienic, and how this can have a direct impact on clientele. Sarah Fozzard, Head of Home Hygiene at Zoflora (@lovezoflora) said: “Now we are living in this new world and things are getting back to the ‘new normal’, we are seeing clients coming back into barbers and it has never been more important to have a hygienically clean barbershop. But, clean doesn’t have to mean boring! Zoflora, the UK’s no. 1 disinfectant can add to the experience by creating a space that people love to be in.” A visit to your local barbershop for your regular cut is something that a lot of clients look forward to, but there are always going to be a small number of people who would still be hesitant about living too dangerously after the pandemic. How can you ensure that those clients feel as though they can feel safe when returning to your shop? Sarah explains how fragrance plays a big part: “When customers enjoy their experience

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INTERIORS

and feel a connection, they are more likely to return - boosting revenue and footfall. “One way to add value to this experience is through an enticing interior/atmosphere, and fragrance plays a large part impacting a consumer’s perception to their environment. This can create a real emotional connection.” Said Sarah. Naturally, you’re going to want to ensure that your barbershop scent matches your overall tone and will go hand in hand with your staff, aesthetic and clientele. It’s worth exploring the options, as Zoflora offers a range of different fragrances to match any desired style, such as fruity, energising, crisp or even bringing some outdoor freshness into your business. From a hygiene standpoint, you’re going to want to ensure that it’s something which can work with all of your interior design, giving you the best of both worlds when it comes to cleaning as well as setting the tone for your barbering business. Sarah continues: “Whichever fragrance you choose, Zoflora not only kills germs

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beautifully, but is scientifically proven to kill 99.9% of viruses and bacteria, including the COVID-19 virus (SARSCoV-2), whilst eliminating odours and filling spaces with beautiful fragrance for 24 hours.” These sorts of products will ensure that even when you close down for the night, and have a freshly cleaned barbershop, you’ll be welcomed back in the morning with the same amazing reminders that your barbershop interiors are doing fantastic. Your staff and customers will appreciate it. Just think, how often do you actively notice when a business looks and smells great? Normally, people notice, and associate that place with cleanliness, with a pleasant memory that won’t bring a single sour thought when it crosses your mind. Naturally, you’re going to want to ensure that you have the right products for the job too. We all know how messy it can be! From the wash basin where you’ll be washing clients’ hair to your chairs and door handles, your clients will notice the little stray hairs that may be floating around. Be sure that you stock up on the

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right products and you’ll be sitting pretty in the face of a tough cleaning job. Sarah tells us a little about some products that she’d recommend to keep your barbershop interior in tip-top shape: “Use Zoflora’s Concentrated Multipurpose Disinfectant which offers the best value for money. Its versatility means you can use it down sinks or toilets to eliminate odours. Put it in the washing machine with your load of towels to disinfect for the next clients, or even for larger areas, such as floors and worktops! “Zoflora’s Disinfectant Mist is perfect for disinfecting both hard and soft surfaces, its touch dry in 45 seconds and the Multipurpose Disinfectant Cleaner makes light work of heavy cleaning jobs, such as the sink, leaving your barbershop hygienically clean and beautifully fragrant.” Finishes Sarah. Overall, it’s a no-brainer. Having an appealing barbershop, whether it be fragrances to visual aids, will absolutely lead to added footfall and return clientele. You can take that to the bank! We know that all of our favourite barbershops look and smell amazing!

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BARBERSHOP OF THE MONTH

Pall Mall Barbers Richard Marshall, Founder of Pall Mall Barbers, sits down with us to talk us through one of the oldest barbershops in London, their growth over the years and how they market themselves for success.

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BARBERSHOP OF THE MONTH

tanding tall since 1896, Pall Mall Barbers is one of the oldest barbershops found in London. The length of time they’ve been around even predates their current name, with the shop originally being called Pall Mall Toilet Salon. The barbershop, currently based in Trafalgar Square, has a wide variety of networks in which they operate. Pall Mall Barbers have worked closely with some world-renowned business brands and media companies. The fun doesn’t stop there, however. Richard Marshall said: “We have worked with some business brands and media companies from around the world, from media projects to world class events.” It’s worth noting that Pall Mall Barbers are have won many awards in more than a few different aspects of their lifespan, including winning the Board of Trade Award from the British Government for outstanding business. Pall Mall Barbers have not just one, but six venues located in some of the city’s most iconic areas. They have even branched out overseas, touching base with a shop at Rockefeller Center on 5th Avenue in New York City. The staff at Pall Mall Barbers believe that modern day barbering is all about hair in general, and not specifically just the hair on top of your head, providing hair and beard combination services. These values are clearly reflected, as seen when stepping foot into the shop as clients are opting to spend double on

the extra service, increasing revenue. Richard goes into further detail: “For a lot of men, a combination of a beard and hair service is a way they can be different and stand out. It can become part of their brand, so shaping and styling is extremely important. Make sure you charge for the time, as many barbers don’t. This can result in a loss, as beards can take longer than haircuts.” Offering a wide range of services is also a fantastic way to get more products out there, according to Richard. This is just another way that Pall Mall Barbers are able to increase their revenue stream. Something that Pall Mall Barbers pride themselves on is understanding their clients. Richard explains that it’s

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important that you know exactly what your clients are after when they visit your barbershop. Offering a wide range of services will help you with this, and will ultimately increase visibility and revenue. Pall Mall Barbers have their own range of products they offer to clients as another way to bring in revenue. Richard stated that having their own product range has only seen great return, especially when recommending them to clients after a service. The team at Pall Mall Barbers are always looking to expand. So, if you’re looking to join an award-winning team with a reputation to boot, don’t hesitate to get in touch with them on social media at @pallmallbarbers

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BARBERS AROUND THE WORLD

J. Clark Walker J. Clark Walker is a master barber, freelance hairstylist and barber at Martial Vivot Salon Pour Hommes in Manahattan, Sara June Salon in Brooklyn, and also works for himself in a private studio.

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BARBERS AROUND THE WORLD

What can you tell me about your barbering career?

My barbering career started when I was 25. I had been working in the operating room at a hospital during college when I realised I had been lying to myself about how much I liked going to school. I decided to press pause, think about a career that I could potentially fall in love with, and stumbled upon the idea of barbering, so I jumped in. I have loved it since my first day, and the job keeps changing enough that I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of it.

You do house and office calls. What can you tell me about this?

House calls were the first haircuts I ever did. During barber school, I would cut all my friend’s and family’s hair at

their houses. As barbers, we are always doing cuts on the porch, or kitchen, or garage for friends. But, during COVID, things changed a bit. More people were spending time at home or the office, so it became an option for my clients.

What is your private studio like?

It has always been a dream to have a private studio that is half art studio, half hair. I met my wife while she was in hair school, and ten years later she helped me get through barber school. She is now a professional artist and no longer cuts hair, so I think we have always had a similar vision for what “our studio when we’re grown up” would look and feel like. I hope that this space turns into a combination of all the places I have loved

working. I hope clients look forward to coming.

You’re based in Utah and New York City. What can you tell me about the barbering world where you’re based?

Utah and NYC couldn’t be more different. There’s different quirks, preferences and types of service expected in either place. You have to be ready to give people the cuts they want at all times, so it helps to see it all! Working in more than one place helps me to come across the whole range of hair trends.

What can UK barbers learn from barbers such as yourself in Utah and NYC?

I don’t think there is anything we do or know in the US that UK barbers don’t already! I personally get so inspired from the work happening in your part of the world. From what I have witnessed, so much pioneering in this industry has come from UK barbers.

Any general thoughts you’d like to share with our readers?

I love how connected barbers and hairstylists can be in the world, we learn a lot from each other. I often get caught up in social media, and forget that my focus needs to always be on impressing my clients with my work, and not other barbers I don’t even know. Follow @jclarkwalker

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CREATE THIS STYLE

Thick, full and manageable

Ash Curtis of Fraternity, an award-winning barbershop located in the heart of Beverley, talks us through how to create a manageable, thick and full hairstyle. The barbershop recently won Yorkshire’s Best New Barber and has four ambitious barbers, boasting 28 years of experience between them.

chose this style for my client as he had come to me looking for a change and gave me free reign. So, I picked this out to suit his face and head shape the best. My client’s jawline is extremely sharp, and the shape of the beard complimented that. The shape of this haircut worked wonders for my client, as well as being easy to manage for his busy lifestyle. Follow @fraternitybarbers

Equipment List: Gamma Ergo Babyliss Skeleton Trimmers Babyliss Foil Shavers Matakki “Beast” Scissors Elegance Shave Gel Uppercut Deluxe Clay Uppercut Deluxe Beard Balm Diva Atmos hairdryer

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Finished Look

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CREATE THIS STYLE

Step one

Step two

Step three

Start the haircut by thoroughly cutting the top, sectioning as you go to ensure a clean, precise cut. My client wanted a choppy, textured look which I created using point-cutting to assure the desired look was achieved!

For the back and sides, start with a 1.5 guard to remove the bulk. Then, proceed to fade the sides from a 0 at the bottom, tapering up into the 1.5. Repeatedly go through the guards to make sure the fade is clean and sharp, using clipper and trimmer-over-comb to smooth the fade out some more.

Then, start your clipper-over-comb using the Wide Wahl F-Stop Comb to blend the remaining bulk into the top, making sure the haircut is even and tight on both sides. After achieving a messy and choppy look on the top, and a clean, smooth fade to go with it, move on to lining in the haircut. This is one of the most important stages in any haircut, ensuring it’s finished with a clean border.

Step four

Step five

Step six

Fade the sideburns area into the haircut. Freehand all the length and straggly hairs, making sure the beard is as neat as possible. Clipper-over-comb the length towards the bottom to make sure you end with a really sharp, clean look that will ultimately shape the beard overall.

It’s standard procedure for me to use a hot towel before using a cutthroat razor to line the beard in. This opens the pores of the skin and relaxes the customer before using Elegance Shave Gel around the neckline and cheek line to soften and moisturise the skin before taking the cutthroat and creating an extremely sharp finish.

When you’re happy with the shape and length of the beard, use preferred beard products such as the Uppercut Beard Balm or Beard Oil. In this case, beard balm was applied to give the beard a stronger hold. For the hair, I love the Uppercut Matte Clay for a dry and natural look, whilst still creating texture and a strong hold.

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Stylish Duke hair products are a British hair brand you will deﬁnitely be seeing and hearing a lot about for the foreseeable future. Establishing in 2021 by Michael McCarthy Aka Stylish Duke. With its stylish packaging and exceptional product in side, it is deﬁnitely A Touch of class for the modern day gentlemen looking to keep them self’s looking stylish and feeling good for any occasion.

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Education & Training Education and training is an important part of any aspiring barber’s career, but how can you utilise it yourself and what issues might you face? Some industry professionals give us their advice. Photo by Monkey Business Images.

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EDUCATION & TRAINING - RISING STAR

George Smith

George Smith of Toni&Guy, 44 Silver Street, Salisbury talks us through his incredible barbering journey and shares some advice to aspiring barbers.

Hi George. How did you begin your career in barbering?

It was inevitable that I would end up in the world of hair. My destiny was shaped by the legacy of my parents. Dad, Phil Smith is a British Hairdresser of the Year nominee nine times over, has two successful product ranges and is seen as one of the smartest brains in the business. Plus, mum Louise is an award-winning hairdresser and successful salon owner of TONI&GUY Salisbury in her own right. While you could argue hairdressing was in my blood, I didn’t come around to the idea without a little resistance! Mum signed me up for some training with Charlie Cullen and TONI&GUY’s Dexter Dapper. On that very first day I knew I was in the right place; it was a great atmosphere. With not just an acceptance, but an enthusiasm and – importantly – excitement for the hair industry unleashed, I’ve never looked back.

From an educational perspective, were there any key points which you think benefitted your career? I have nothing but admiration for my two teachers and mentors, Charlie and Dexter, if it wasn’t for them, it could have been a different story. It’s not

necessarily just about their work, but the type of people they are too. And they’re so talented. I’m also in awe of the extremely talented Jody Taylor. As members of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing I leapt at the opportunity to be part of the Fellowships’ PROJECT: Men team in 2021. What an amazing year I’ve had. The two standouts for me here were getting the opportunity to work with Simon Shaw on a shoot when we collaborated with Wahl UK, then a few weeks later when I got to dive deep into afro textures with the go-to guy right now who is Tariq Howes.

Were there any people who greatly helped your start in barbering? And how did they help you.

I don’t think I would have been so captivated in the career of barbering had I not had the good fortune to be taught by Dexter and Charlie. The foundations were made and my confidence has continued to grow on a daily basis. One day I would like to follow in the footsteps of Jody Taylor in terms of session work and Simon Duffy in terms of brand making.

Any advice you’d like to share to our readers?

Be a sponge! Soak up every educational moment you can. Before you put your head on the pillow (weekends excluded), ask yourself ‘what have I learned today?’. Might sound a little cliché but this is my mantra. Seize every opportunity presented to you, never say no. My time in barbering has been amazing because I have that philosophy. Enter every competition open to you with the aim to win it. Behind the chair I always believe in giving a full consultation with the aim to progress my clients style on every visit – it’s so important to me.

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Barbering Apprentices Reﬂections Training Academy have two state of the art facilities based in the heart of Bristol and Birmingham. Offering barbering apprenticeships, apprenticeship loans, adult courses, full time barbering study programme and Traineeships which are nationality recognised standards and qualiﬁcations. We also offer bespoke opportunities for both employers and learners throughout the South West and Midlands. We have a team of inspirational educators teaching at the academy with a passion for Barbering, holding a strong reputation within the industry and continued national learner successes and achievements.

Want to see if you are eligible? Please contact our Recruitment team today. Bristol: 15a Colston Street, Bristol BS1 5AP T: 0117 922 1440 E: bristolrecruitment@reflectionstraining.co.uk ReflectionsTA.Bristol Birmingham: Unit 2a/2b Commercial Street, Birmingham B1 1RS T: 0121 643 2147 E: birminghamrecruitment@reflectionstraining.co.uk ReflectionsTA.Birmingham @ReflectionsTA

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EDUCATION & TRAINING

Chris Foster – The Profile Guy

Chris Foster, The Proﬁle Guy, tells us about the importance of coaching, the Xposure programme and how it can inﬂuence growth and opportunity.

Please introduce yourself as The Profile Guy and tell us about what you strive to achieve.

I want it to make it easy for barbers to achieve their goals and dreams by building their influence and income. I am the leading expert in profile building, transforming careers behind the chair to achieve iconic industry status. I help winners win big!

What message you are trying to get across to your following?

They can achieve their goals and dreams with a clear strategy for success. This industry has huge potential for both growth and opportunity. When I started out, I charged £7 for a haircut. I used to think £40 was a lot until I charged £4800 for a haircut. The magic happens in the hair industry when you are seen as the top ten percent, where the most amazing opportunities come to you.

You pride yourself on helping hair professionals to amplify their magnificence, how do you do this?

I have a club called the Iconic Hair Club, which is the very basic way that I can help people. I show up in my club once a week to give strategies of marketing themselves in a way that gets them seen as the go-to experts within the industry. I also have a programme called Xposure, which will help hair professionals build award-winning collections that gets them recognised and builds their profile so that they can monetise their knowledge. Xposure is what this industry has been waiting for, a step-by-step, no secrets held back

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formula for understanding how your brand imagery will get you the career you’ve always dreamed of. I created the Ultimate Digital Hair Academy for those who want to share their knowledge into profit and teach online to a global audience. Let’s not forget my podcast, the Profit Profile Podcast found anywhere you listen to your podcasts.

You’re positioned in the hair industry, how can your experience benefit barbering professionals?

When you start to focus on building a strong industry profile and personal brand, you will see the difference in your client retention and opportunities that come to you when you are a key person of influence.

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Why is coaching so important within the barbering industry? So, you may ask the question why on God’s green earth would you need a coach? Every elite athlete has a coach to get the absolute best out of them, so they can perform at the top of their game. Every successful person knows that a coach/mentor is someone that helps them push harder, work faster and be stronger all to achieve greatness. The skills that got you working behind the chair will not necessarily take your career to the next level of opportunity. Follow @theproﬁle.guy and visit theproﬁleguy.com

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For More Info

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MAGIC COSMETICS Unit 14,7 Airfield Road Christchurch, Dorset BH23 3TQ | T: +44 (0) 7805 514 472 www.magiccosmetics.co.uk | info@magiccosmetics.co.uk | marmarabarber.uk

EDUCATION & TRAINING

Learning a thing or two Something that you’ll ﬁnd is often overlooked in the world of barbering is the amount of apprenticeships and training there are, and how beneﬁcial knowing the ins and outs can be for your business. We speak with some industry pros who give us a little insight.

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t’s important to know that education plays an important part in the growth of any salon or barbershop environment. From a barbershop owner’s perspective, you’ll notice nothing but great things from investing time into your team’s education needs. But what key factors play a vital part to the growth of any barbershop or salon? Chris Foster, the Profile Guy, gives us an insight into how he feels educating your staff will ensure a huge investment: “Education plays a vital part in the growth of any salon. Whenever I have worked with different barbershops, the ones that grow are the barbershops that invest in their teams and individual education needs.” It’s crucial to your staff that everyone can feel as though they can develop and grow. People naturally want to feel as though there is a clear route of progression in their career rather than feeling stuck in one place. “People are drawn and attracted to a culture of growth. They will want to work

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for that business because they know that they are on a path of progression, rather than one of stagnation. Individuals who experience stagnation will only look for the next opportunity.” Chris continues. Naturally, educating the young, aspiring minds that are barbers, it’s crucial to know that the knowledge passed down is shaping the future of the barbering industry. Chris continues: “By having an apprentice in the business and training them up to become an employee, you are shaping someone’s career for life. Chances are they might not stay with you forever, which is okay. But you know that you have shaped and helped somebody within this amazing industry grow and gain an income from the knowledge that you have given them.” You may find that contrary to educating your own staff, you can hire someone who has their own niche way of doing things that doesn’t quite match up with your barbershop’s methods. Ultimately, this could potentially have a detrimental impact on your appeal to

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EDUCATION & TRAINING

clients, especially if there’s a running theme in your barbershop that someone without the correct training can’t replicate. “Sometimes this does not align with your vision and the culture which you want your barbershop to go or grow. This culture within the barbershop is vital to attracting and retaining ideal clients and strengthening the business.” Chris continues. Chris’ philosophy of barbering stems from working within some of the most prestigious male grooming emporiums in London: “The techniques that I teach through my online academy help people to attract high net worth clients and help them increase their opportunities to work in film and fashion.” He adds. Chris also has his own education program, combining his experience over the years demonstrating how important it is to care for and nurture your staff’s growth. The Foss Academy is where hair professionals can empower themselves to get award-winning coaching, education and career advice.

You can find more information at www. thefossacademy.com. Naturally, you’re going to want to ensure that an apprentice who may end up working at your barbershop on a more permanent basis is progressing relatively smoothly throughout their training. At Reflections Training Academy, the learners are provided an amazing opportunity to not only gain the relevant training and support, but real experience in a working environment to help gain their qualification in barbering. While receiving the training at Reflections, the learners have the support and guidance from their tutor and safeguarding officer. Phil Davis-Director of Hair and Barbering at Reflections Training

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Academy said: “Apprenticeships are amazing to gain multiple skills in the course; all while being employed with a barbershop. Apprentices will gain all the important skills and knowledge they need to succeed in the barbering industry, it is also beneficial getting into employment earlier as this means there is incredible potential for the apprentice to progress in their career quickly.” Reflections Training Academy have worked in the Barbering sector for many years working with high profiled employers. Phil mentions that they offer a bespoke training programme that offers young people and adult learners the opportunity to gain valuable insight into barbering, gaining the necessary work experience to be a valued asset

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EDUCATION & TRAINING

to any team when going onto the apprenticeship programme. “Working with industry leads and high-profile ambassadors offering masterclasses and learning opportunities including photographic shoots and competitions, our training programmes ensure learners are highly skilled and ready for the industry. “Our highly popular advanced adult course, which can be funded through a learner loan, continues to be oversubscribed as the interest to gain entry into the industry continues to grow. With two states of the art facilities in the heart of Birmingham and Bristol, learners can tailor a programme to suit their needs and with the use of online sessions, Reflections are excited to develop apprenticeships courses exclusive to employer needs.” Said Phil. The burning question is, for barbershop owners, how can teaching someone from the ground up have a direct impact on business? By investing in apprenticeships and training for

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your aspiring staff, you are able to not only just fill staffing levels, but also bring a strong sense of loyalty to your business. With financial incentives from the government to encourage employers to take on, apprenticeships learners can quickly become trained and work towards a globally recognised qualification. If looking into training your own staff yourself, it’s seen as an amazing opportunity to really inspire a younger generation with your own passion. However, certain marks must be hit. Phil explains: “There is a standard given by the awarding body that has to be followed for the learner to pass their EPA (End point assessment). If in-house training is to take place, a standardisation of the required knowledge/skills and behaviours must be given for the employers to understand and deliver.” When it comes down to it, barbers must be able to work with all hair types and be able to ensure that they can meet any expectations their clients might have.

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This includes barbering techniques, equipment usage, facial hair shaping and more. If you want to boost your business, demonstrating more to your clients than just the run-of-the mill services that can be found anywhere, then it’s crucial that you consider looking into some fantastic training apprenticeship schemes.

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LOOKBOOK

Interior design

Emily Milton shares her favourite styles this month, as well as a couple of fashionable interiors!

rbers) Sheffield Barbershop (@taylortaylorba

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LOOKBOOK

@curfew_grooming Stepping through green like Hulk

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@barbergee_, working at @hincesuk

ckbobbin) Model: Jack Bobbin (@ja l_barber) stee lue_ ss_b (@ro on Stylist: Ross Mathies yshed)) aph ogr hot on (@p Photography: Daniel Mas

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COMING UP NEXT ISSUE

Photo by Jeppe Mønster

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COMING UP NEXT ISSUE

The Education & Training Issue

Emily Milton, Assistant Editor

ello and welcome to a sneak peek of what will be coming up in our next issue. Next month, we have a big focus on education and training, covering such topics as why it’s good to look into the apprenticeship schemes, why training is such a worthwhile investment into your business and the revenue that can be made from keeping your staff at the top of their game. Are you unsure of how to choose the right staff or concerned that bringing in new people may jeopardize the balance in your barbershop? Do not worry! When it comes to new staff, qualification training should be at the forefront of keeping both your staff and business up to date and fresh, thus attracting a broader clientele and offering new options for your regulars. We explore this in greater detail next month. We catch up with educators such as Chris Foster, who shows us how to build a personalised brand and what this can do to grow your business, as well as touching on his various training programs that aim to keep you on top and ever present within the barbering industry. So, if you are struggling to build the career of your dreams or an online presence that matches your goals, catch up with him next time for guidance and inspiration. Trust me, there is something for everyone, no matter the size of your business or budget! On top of this, we are touching on retailing, specifically how to optimise your profit for Valentine’s Day and the many ways to increase footfall through clever visual marketing, online selling and bespoke gifts to name a few. Not to mention vouchers which are always a winner for your clients! Our regular Essential 5 will be covering all bases as usual, check in next time to find out what the hot topic will be. All this as well as regular features such as our Rising Star, Lookbook, Barbershop of the Month and more, can all be found in our next issue. From myself and everyone here at the Barber Magazine, thank you for reading this issue. We look forward to seeing you next month! Emily

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CONNECTIONS ASSOCIATIONS

MALE GROOMING PRODUCTS British Barbers E: admin@britishbarbers.com W: www.britishbarbers.com

Opie’s Beard Co E: info@opiesbeardco.co.uk W: www.opiesbeardco.co.uk

British Master Barbers Alliance E: info@britishmasterbarbers.com W: www.britishmasterbarbers.com

Seven Potions T: 0203 6423 440 E: info@sevenpotions.com W: www.sevenpotions.com Instagram: @sevenpotions

BARBER & SALON FURNITURE

The Bearded Man Company Unit 19 Victoria Industrial Park, Victoria Road, Dartford, Kent, DA1 5AJ T: 01322 401583 W: www.thebearded mancompany.com

Albert Ewan Design 28 Hayton Close, Cramlington, NE23 2FN T: 016 70 73 89 79 E: studio@albertewandesign.com W: www.albertewandesign.com

The Bluebeards Revenge Bluebeards HQ, Unit One, Langage Business Park, Eagle Road, Plymouth, PL7 5JY T: 01752 898191 W: www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

REM UK Ltd Glenfield Mill, Glenfield Rd, Nelson, Lancs, BB9 8AW T: 01282 619977 E: sales@rem.co.uk

Urban Jack 20-22 Wenlock Road, London, N1 7GU T: 020 363 341 20

BARBERING TOOLS Andis T: 01635 581 958 E: info@andisco.com W: www.andis.com

PROFESSIONAL BARBERSHOP SUPPLIES Hair & Beauty Depot Unit 2, Victoria Road, South Ruislip, HA4 0QF T: 020 3475 8869 E: sales@hairandbeautydepot.com W: www.hairandbeautydepot.com

EDUCATION Training Solutions in Hair Ltd National Training locations (England, Scotland Wales, NI and ROI) T: 0208 845 4115 E: info@uktraining-solutionsinhair.co.uk W: www.uktraining-solutionsinhair.co.uk

Morgan’s Pomade Company Limited Tyler Way, Swalecliffe, Whitstable, Kent, CT5 2RT T: +44 (0)1227 792761 E: sales@morganspomade.co.uk W: www.morganspomade.co.uk

ENTERTAINMENT TheMusicLicence T: 0800 086 8804 (quoting ‘Barber Magazine’) W: www.pplprs.co.uk

SALON MANAGEMENT SOFTWARE

Lycon UK Training Academy 343 Fulham Palace Road, SW6 6TD T: 0207 590 9300 E: sales@lyconuk.com W: www.lyconuk.com

TRAINING

Salon Tracker T: 0113 350 8230 E: info@salontracker.co.uk W: www.salontracker.co.uk

HAIR REMOVAL

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Saks Apprenticeships 55-59 Duke Street, Darlington, Co Durham, DL3 7SD W: www.saksapprenticeships.co.uk

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They trust you to cut it. Now, help them grow it.

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LESS CUDDLE, MORE VOLUME