The Barber Magazine May 2022 by Cogent Multimedia Ltd

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MAY 2022

The Marketing Issue Featuring: Josiah Dawkins, John Duvoisin, Kay Etherington and more… HAIR

BEARDS

SKINCARE

SHAVING

BUSINESS

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11/01/2022 16:58

Editor’s Letter

ello readers! It’s May, and we’re really starting to feel the sun on our skin now as we edge closer to the long-awaited Summer. This issue, we’ve got a big focus on marketing, how it has an impact on your business and any tricks you may be missing for your barbershop. You can find all of this from page 11. On page 22, you’ll be able to explore The Barber and the Hare, a creativity-inspired barbershop run by Amy Clayton, who gives us an insight into why being creative can contribute to the design of your own shop. As always, our Lookbook provides you guys with a look into some of our personal favourite images from Instagram this past month. Don’t forget, if you want us to take a look at yours, use the hashtag #BarberMagLookbook and we may feature you in a future issue! From myself and everyone here at the Barber Magazine, we hope that you have a great month and we’ll see you next issue!

Editor

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MAY 2022

The Marketing Issue

Featuring: Josiah Dawkins, John Duvoisin, Kay Etherington and more… HAIR

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BEARDS

SKINCARE

SHAVING

On the cover

BUSINESS

Photo by Josiah Dawkins @josiahthebarber

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30 Editor Connor Jenkins connor@cimltd.co.uk Publication Manager James Davies jamesd@cimltd.co.uk 01795 509102 Design and Production Grant Waters, James Taylor 01795 509108

28 8 20 22 28 30 11 24 26

Credit Facilities Manager Lauren Sharpe creditcontrol@cimltd.co.uk 01795 509103

REGULAR FEATURES:

Administration Manager Natalie Murray admin@cimltd.co.uk 01795 509103

Cover Story: This month we sat down with the mind behind Ace Barbers Academy. Lookbook: Our favourite #BarberMagLookbook images this month.

Marketing Manager Paris Kennelly paris@cimltd.co.uk

Barbershop of the Month: We take a look at the creativity behind The Barber and the Hare.

DIGITAL & WEB DEVELOPER Matt Coppard

Barbers Around the World: We talk with John Duvoisin about barbering in Orlando.

Sales Director Tom Woollin tom@cimltd.co.uk

Create This Style: Tracy Mangan talks us through how to create a Braid and Fade.

UNIQUE FOR MAY Marketing: Our main focus this month is marketing and how to utilise it. Inspiration: We talk with FAZ to discuss the difficulties they’ve faced as well as their product. Rising Star: Kay Pitassi tells us about their beginnings in the barbering industry. /BarberMagazine

Managing Director John Denning © 2022 CIM Online Limited, 1st Floor, Saphir House, 5 Jubilee Way, Faversham, Kent, ME13 8GD. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope. Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to CIM Online Limited. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

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Industry Update

Blacc+Blond announces gender neutral pricing

vant-Garde Hair Salon BLACC+BLOND announces gender neutral pricing to mark International Women’s Day

2022. From Tuesday 8 March 2022, the price for each one-hour BLACC+BLOND hair cut is £40 for all genders, a reduction in £6 for women, an increase in £6 for men and enables inclusivity for all genders. The inspiration for BLACC+BLOND’s 40/40 Vision came from award-winning Founder and Hair Architect Anil Salhan’s

experiences of racism. “I always felt it is more empowering when white people understand their privilege and participate in anti-racism efforts, therefore as a man, I recognise my privilege and want to create a level of equality for women.” The fight for gender equality marks another revolution for BLACC+BLOND when compared to traditional salons. In less than two and a half years, BLACC+BLOND offered personalised virtual haircuts during lockdown, raising

funds for mental health and anti-racism causes.

RangeMe attracts Europe’s leading beauty retailer Feelunique

n 15th March, Feelunique partnered with global product sourcing platform, RangeMe. Sarah Miles, CEO at Feelunique, commented: “We aim to be as inclusive as possible for our customers and this partnership with RangeMe will help us have the most relevant products available.” Suppliers can showcase their range, bring new products to market, increase brand visibility, and grow sales, while retail buyers use RangeMe to discover new products, search trends, and

communicate directly with brands. “We’re delighted to welcome Europe’s leading online beauty retailer Feelunique to our community to transform their product sourcing experience. This is also an extraordinary opportunity for suppliers to connect directly with Feelunique buyers and showcase their products,” said Nicky Jackson, CEO of RangeMe. This news presents suppliers worldwide a front-row audience with one of the biggest names in retail. RangeMe helps suppliers grow their retail

relationships with a platform that gives them the tools and insights to manage their products, market their brand, and build awareness.

Free From Skincare Awards

he eleventh Free From Skincare Awards opened to entries on 21st March. The Awards feature sixteen product categories, plus special awards for Best Brand, for Free From Achievement and a new award for Best Labelling. “A Best Labelling Award is long overdue,” says Awards’ Director Alex Gazzola. “We’ll be looking for brands and products which demonstrate

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excellence in labelling. Those with sensitive skin or who avoid certain ingredients rely on clarity in labelling, and we’ll be rewarding the very best.” Entries close 3rd May. The Finalists are revealed in June, and the Winners are announced in July. The Awards were founded by Michelle Berriedale-Johnson, director of the Free From Food Awards, now in their fifteenth year, and Alex Gazzola, a writer specialising in allergies and sensitivities. @thebarbermagazine

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Follow the Awards’ social media pages at @freefromskincareawards and for information on rules, terms, conditions and how to enter, see www.freefromskincareawards.co.uk

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COVER STORY

Josiah the Barber

On this issue’s front cover, you’ll ﬁnd award-winning, Birmingham-based hair specialist and barber Josiah Dawkins. Josiah tells us about his barbering journey, non-surgical hair replacement and Ace Barbers Academy.

osiah’s journey officialy began to take shape in the early 2000s, back when he was around 15 years of age. Josiah developed a strong interest in barbering, and had the desire to use his skills and creativity to evolve his talents. This paid off, and he ended up with a part-time job in a local barbershop during his last year of high school. As Josiah grew as a barber, he began

Before

to realise that his creativity only increased with each passing day. “As I developed in my career as a barber, I always liked change, excitement and something new, whether that was using colour crayons to create bright outcomes when doing designs or using products to enhance

After

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waves,” Josiah mentions. Around five years ago, Josiah discovered the non-surgical hair replacement procedure through Instagram. This piqued his interest, opening up many exciting avenues for him within the barbering world. His

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COVER STORY hunger for knowledge stemmed from the fact that there were only ever ‘before and after’ pictures, never demonstrating the actual process of the prcedure. Josiah never set out to have his own business, however. His main focus was to become the best barber that he could, ensuring that only the finest skills were developed for his clientele. Josiah continues: “Over the years I flourished, working in several barber salons across the West Midlands as well as in London. Quite often, these roles involved me taking on leadership roles such as managing the salon, managing staff and the day-to-day running of the business. “To anyone with a desire to run their own business my advice would be to study, work hard and never give up! Lastly, you must enjoy what you’re doing! I certainly do!” One of Josiah’s biggest highlights within his career was the chance to fly to the USA. This consisted of learning all about non-surgical hair replacement techniques. This, combined with being recognised as the 2019 Birmingham Hair Specialist at the Corporate LiveWire Prestige Awards has made Josiah’s barbering career a massively worthwhile endeavor. Josiah runs his own VTCT-approved Training Academy, specifically aimed at disadvantaged groups and runs a free traineeship programme for 16-19-yearolds. The academy holds many benefits, including being trained by industry professionals, high-quality teaching, discounted equipment and tools, ongoing support, opportunity to become part of their rapidly growing network of their franchise scheme and more!

Before

After

“I believe that all barbers and barbershops should be offering the custom hair unit service as it is lifechanging, and is something that will benefit their existing clients whilst also attracting new ones. The hair unit service has rapidly expanded our client base, our reach and has also significantly boosted our income,” Josiah adds. Josiah offers two ways of learning how to install hair units. One of which being a one-to-one masterclass which is all hands on deck and all practical work, providing /BarberMagazine

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you with the chance to watch him do an installation. “You will have the chance to complete one [an installation] with my guidance and support. We will go through the do’s and don’ts, products, equipment, maintenance and aftercare. Class times and locations are arranged and scheduled to suit both parties.” Finishes Josiah. Hair Unit Group masterclass is a look and learn class. For more information visit www.360hairtransformstions.com

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Marketing

Want to know how to best market your barbering business? Don’t worry, we spoke with some professionals so you don’t have to! Photo by @tafocandooﬁcial

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ESSENTIAL FIVE

Dave’s marketing tips

Dave Battle (@dave_battle_hair) works as a barber at Albion Barbers (@albion.barbers) near Halifax, West Yorkshire. Dave outlined ﬁve key areas they believe can help you grow your business and increase revenue.

Social media It goes without saying that social media is hugely important for any business today. For barbering and the hair industry, it plays a vital role. Working in such a visual industry, it is a key way to widen your potential client base and really shout about the work that you do. Don’t underestimate the power of hashtags, and if you haven’t already, consider branching out into TikTok and reels. Ensure your business continues to evolve, along with the platforms your client base is using.

Word of mouth Our industry relies on direct customer contact, so much that we use digital tools and social media to reach a wider consumer base. The majority of our repeat custom will come from the shop location. For this reason, you cannot underestimate the importance of word of mouth. Setting yourself apart from the competition with the services you offer can really give your clients something that they will want to tell others about.

Knowing your brand Everything about your business creates an overall brand image, from the logo and the music to the way you present yourself on social media, and all of that is before we even consider the way we cut hair. Having a clear brand image is important if you want to stand out and attract the type of clientele you market your business towards.

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Repeat custom Getting clients through the door is one thing, but what you really want is for them to come back again and again. Aside from the quality of your haircuts, offering complimentary refreshments and a digital booking system is a great way of making the experience easier and more enjoyable for your clients.

Products The products you stock, if not your own brand should reflect your brand image. They should be products that you have confidence in using and talking to your clients about. Discussing with your clients how to style their hair, and how to use products the right way will position you as an expert to your customers. Retailing is also a great way of increasing your overall revenue, selling a customer the right product for their hair further increases the likelihood of repeat sales.

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MARKETING

Marketing marvels

It’s no secret that marketing is a huge part of growing and maintaining your barbering business, but are you at the top of your game when it comes to getting yourself out there? We spoke with some marketing professionals so that you don’t have to.

arketing within the barbering industry is crucial, and can be considered a full-time job in its own right. The will, compared with the right knowledge and know-how, is quintessential to bringing in the most revenue from your barbering business. It can reap more benefits than you’d expect. Paul Preshaw (@ppreshaw) has been working in the barbering industry for over thirteen years and boasts a wealth of knowledge when it comes to marketing and promotion. Paul goes into detail about some important marketing tactics that you may have missed: “Currently, in the barbering industry, your business needs to have some kind of social media presence. These days, it is a crucial part of any business marketing strategy in order to get their work and name out there. “There are two main areas of marketing that I believe are the primary focus. Firstly, the public and barbering community are always keen to see haircuts being done and products being used both in the process and when finished, to judge the overall look and skillset. Secondly, they are interested in the dynamic of the salon, so capturing yourself and the salon environment appeals to clients and attracts them to your services.” According to Paul, social media consistency is key. Posting regularly on your platforms and constantly sharing your clients’ posts plays a huge part in upping your engagement. This, combined with some photography knowledge to bring your profiles the cleanest imagery, is a fantastic way to ensure that your clients know what’s going on within your barbering business. Paul considers their social media growth to be a huge part of the business’s marketing strategy, and explains how they utilise it: “Having

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Your business might not get the attention you want straight away but with consistency, it will! Be patient.

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MARKETING a good social media following allows me to connect with a wider audience of clients, potential clients, and fellow barbers. On several occasions, it has led to new and exciting opportunities, such as this interview! “I think it’s a great marketing tool, as followers get to see not only my content, but my personality and the day-to-day running of the shops. All of my career highlights are there for everyone to see, along with any up-and-coming opportunities and it allows them to come on the journey with me. Working in such a visual industry, I think it’s majorly important to utilise any platforms you are given to get your work out there!” When Paul first started in the barbering industry, they had no idea how much of a big deal social media would end up being. Seeing how much it has evolved, it is a no-brainer that you should always be keeping an eye out for the next big thing. It’s no secret that clients love creativity, so why not openly explore and try to find what could potentially be the next big thing to help your barbering business grow. “I started barbering back when these platforms were in their infancy, so it has been crazy seeing how big it has grown. Growth on all platforms takes time. You won’t wake up one day with ten thousand followers, you need to just keep your content consistent, relatable, and true to your style of work. The amount of business that I have generated through my socials is insane and it has literally become my digital business card.” Paul adds. At the end of the day, your socials

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need to reflect your brand and ethos whilst still remaining professional and focused. You’ll need to remember that

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it is a way to help you generate interest but promoting the wrong image may not entice a wide variety of clientele.

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MARKETING

Use your platform to explore, network and make connections. Sharing content and encouraging other industry names is a fantastic way to use social media to your advantage. A lot of social media platforms have a worldwide span, so you need to keep in mind the reach and benefits that follow. Paul finishes by saying: “Don’t be afraid to show off your skills. That’s why people are following you so show them what you can do. Finally, keep your images clutter-free and highresolution. Investing in a good camera or photographer is key. I think the main message to take home is to just be patient, consistent and most importantly professional.” The proof is in the pudding, expanding how much effort you put into your marketing will reap benefits. Showcasing your good quality work is the key to successful marketing, so be sure to share your creations throughout your platforms. Clients can see that you are good at what you do, enticing them into becoming regulars at your business. Based in Limerick City for over twenty years, passionate barber Billy O Connor (@billys_barber), owner of Billy’s Barbershop, can’t imagine doing anything else and has learned many tools of the trade when it comes to marketing a business. This is most recently paired with creating content for the evergrowing video sharing platform, TikTok. Billy says: “Over time, our TikTok and Instagram following has grown /BarberMagazine

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MARKETING significantly. Consistency is key here, I make sure to post regularly with good quality content. The quality of the pictures we take is important to us. We make sure that our content always consists of quality over quantity. Social media platforms certainly play a key role in marketing at Billy’s.” Something that we don’t often hear about when promoting content is that it’s massively important to focus on quality rather than quantity. One fantastically lit, perfectly faded cut on your Instagram grid will be more successful than five mediocre ones. “Something I wish I knew when I first started out was that it’s important to get good quality content instead of throwing just anything up on Instagram,” Billy continues. “Good quality videos and pictures, that is what will get you noticed online as well as frequent posting. “It’s the best way to be seen on Instagram and other social media platforms. People who are just starting out should know that it takes time and it doesn’t come overnight. Your business might not get the attention you want straight away but with consistency, it will! Be patient.” Billy offers a few simple tips for aspiring, marketing-minded barbers who want to ensure that their business will grow. The first of which is to simply not focus on a single social media platform, but to expand and broaden your reach. There’s no reason why you shouldn’t be looking to explore all avenues of social media marketing, so why only stop at one when you can reach so many more

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potential new clients? Billy’s second step is to be consistent. Similarly to the advice from Paul, something to focus on is always ensuring that there’s a new stream of content to help keep your existing clients interested. This not only demonstrates that you have a lot to offer, but frequent posting can be beneficial to algorithms

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which, in turn, will promote your content to a wider audience. Next up, you’ll need to invest in a good camera. Thankfully, in 2022, we have some pretty advanced tech in our smartphones! With the correct lighting, paired with some quality editing software such as Adobe Lightroom or Focos, you’ll be able to create some professional-grade photography in no time! Lastly, it’s important to realise that you should take a step back once you’ve hit your social quota for the day. Overpopulating your social media feeds might actually serve as a deterrent when it comes to reaching a wider audience. Marketing is one of the most crucial parts of running a business. Paul and Billy have been around long enough to know what works and what doesn’t, so their advice is definitely something to take note of! Keep an eye on up-andcoming trends, maximise reach with your social media channels and ensure that you’re showing off what you’ve got the correct way, bringing in new clients and maintaining a healthy relationship with your existing ones.

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LOOKBOOK

Lookin’ good! Instagram’s hottest pics this month, as taken by you!

Instagram: @mltcuts

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LOOKBOOK Instagram: @tigg.hickin .hair

Instagram: @youngmansoxford “Restyle on hair and beard by Craig Evans, Head Barber at Youngmans Oxford 1932.”

Hair, Make Up and Styling: @JJSavani Assistant: @the_hair_bandit_ Photographer: @jamesrupapara

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ration Coloured Crop Collabo man) n_fg hau (@s ham king Shaun Buc Colour and Photography: z__) trim (@k r dine Cut and Styling: Ky Gar le23) _da rew (@d e Dal y And Model:

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BARBERSHOP OF THE MONTH

The Barber and the Hare Amy Clayton, owner of The Barber and the Hare tells us all about the barbershop, as well as about how creativity has helped fuel it since opening.

my opened up their first barbershop around eight months ago in Redditch, Worcestershire during the COVID-19 pandemic. Being a junior barber at the age of 15, Amy discovered very early on that they wanted to work in the industry.

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After graduating from both art and hair college, they decided to peruse their talents within the male grooming industry. It was there, Amy really got in touch with their creative side when it came down to the barbering industry. “I got my first adrenaline rush from competing in the National Hair

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Federation Hairdressing Championships at Winter Gardens in Blackpool, after much encouragement from my barbering tutor. After winning third place in my first barbering competition, I was hooked and craved more. As my experience grew, so did my accolades and I soon built a good reputation which led to a great foundation for the start of my career.” Amy Said. Amy was able to secure a part-time job as a barber and, after gaining a few years’ experience, tried self-employment renting a chair within a local hair salon. They explain how it’s tough when you first start out, being your own boss and organising everything yourself. All of this wasn’t made any easier by the pandemic: “Fast forward nearly ten years and we were in the middle of the pandemic, the most stressful time for anyone who was self-employed. The opportunity arose for me to take the next leap in my career to open my very own shop.” Amy’s creative background is reflected greatly in the interior design within the barbershop, to make it look as unique as possible. They have always felt that the /BarberMagazine

BARBERSHOP OF THE MONTH

interior has to stand out so that people see it, share it and tell other potential clients about it. The front window of The Barber and the Hare is used to show off the creative interiors and provides the opportunity to create seasonal window displays to attract the public. Amy also mentions that they want to ensure that the barbershop was an extension of their personality, mirroring the eccentric imagination for all things “wonderful and whimsical”. “The name of the shop, The Barber and The Hare, derives from my eldest niece aptly calling me ‘the white rabbit’ as I’m usually late for the family Sunday dinner and for my love of the Lewis Carroll classic ‘Alice in Wonderland’. My sister thought that a play on the words ‘hare’ and ‘hair’ would entwine beautifully and be a bit of an in-joke for all that know me too well!” Amy explained. From an upcycled grandfather clock, to a preloved chaise longue, even reclaiming an old fireplace from a skip, Amy wanted to create a barbershop that every time you enter, you see something new. Amy continues: “I enjoy playing the piano, so I’ve transformed old pianos into bespoke workstations and hung them off the floor like they are floating. By creating them myself I not only had

the satisfaction of the process, I was able to add my own unique elements to the design such as secret compartments for tools. It’s one of the many things in the shop that is 100% unique and another factor in standing out from the crowd.” The Barber and the Hare now has two new members of staff, who have settled in to the business nicely. The banter amongst the team is great and will create a heart-warming atmosphere for clients. Overall, the team have over 40 years’ of barbering experience, catering for all types of clients, from traditional to modern trends concentrating on hair and facial services. For years, Amy and the team have been an advocate for using the Bluebeards Revenge grooming products.

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This is because of the quality reflected as well as the environmental policies the brand represents, fitting in nicely with The Barber and the Hare. Amy explains their thoughts: “It’s these small changes we all need to make for the future, and it makes me proud to use products in my own shop from brands who share the same values as I do when it comes to the planet. They smell great too!” Amy is proud of taking the leap, opening their own shop and bringing their vision to life. The unique look of the shop on the high street turns heads and often draws in new clients, leading to frequent appointment bookings. Follow @thebarberandthehare

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INSPIRATION

Faz

We talk with FAZ, a qualiﬁed (Bsc, Msc and planning to pursue a PhD in the near future) L2 & L3 hairdresser (a dry carver) and barber. FAZ, has Autistic Spectrum Disorder (ASD) and Attention Deﬁcit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD), and tells us his story, as well as about his own brand Clipper Grabber (internationally designed registered and patent pending).

AZ started his hairdressing and barbering career with persuasion from his partner, originally wanting to be a car mechanic. FAZ was keen to shrug barbering off until he looked into it further and now he won’t go back. FAZ has dealt with many hardships on their barbering journey due to having ASD-ADHD, including discrimination and being wrongly dismissed. This, however, hasn’t halted any attempt of being a good barber. FAZ said: “My philosophy is very different from other barbers. Any client who sits on my chair and wants a haircut doesn’t get treated simply as a client. I treat them as though it’s myself sitting in the chair, and I’d want nothing less than crisp, sharp and perfect”. FAZ also claims to have faced discrimination from some known barbers and wellknown companies in the barbering industry, and has a desire to ensure that the right measures are be put in place for the future. FAZ is the creator of Clipper Grabber, one of the best safety products for clippers, trimmers and scissors. This product is ideal for people with ASDADHD, arthritis, wrist injuries, cerebral palsy, diabetes and more. “My safety tool offers huge support, confidence and safety for the people on the spectrum of ASD-ADHD. I am autistic myself, and this product is ideal

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for people like me.” FAZ said. FAZ is someone who likes to plan things carefully before a haircut, spending extra time in consultations to achieve exactly what the client wants. This is something that clients appreciate, and is a staple in being an excellent barber. Working as a barber with ASDADHD doesn’t come easy. Some of the common signs of autism that FAZ works alongside every day include, but aren’t limited to, finding it hard to understand what others are thinking, becoming extremely anxious, and not understanding things such as when someone is being sarcastic. “My mission is to create awareness of this spectrum across the board in the hair industry by introducing a module in the Hairdressing and Barbering ITEC course at colleges. I have collaborated

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with Craig Henderson, who has a vast knowledge and experience in this area of ASD-ADHD. We will be planning Zoom meetings or personally attend salons to provide them with the correct knowledge.” FAZ said. FAZ and Clipper Grabber have gained a lot of support from the Great British Barber Bash, Master Barber MK Barber, JJ Savani, Con Hair Barber, Grimm Barber, A’s Barber, BarberStopUK, Danny & Co. Barbers, Get Smoked Connor and more. MK and BarberstopUK are hoping to make a recording on ASD-ADHD to create awareness amongst the Hair professionals. FAZ is open to any suggestions and support in regards to making ASDADHD knowledge available to everyone in the industry. Follow @ClipperGrabber

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Barbicide - No pretender Every client, every time

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RISING STAR

Kay Pitassi Kay Pitassi is a 33 year-old barber based in Swindon, Wiltshire. Originally born and raised in Hampshire, Kay loves all things ‘barbering’, old school hip-hop, and is here to tell us how they made their start within the barbering industry.

What can you tell me about your barbering career?

My barbering career, so far, has been extremely sweet. Having always visited barbers myself, and as my best friend is a barber, I knew one day I wanted to get into it. The pandemic made me re-evaluate my career and what I am passionate about. I worked for eleven years, I’m ready to leave the corporate world. I am a real people person. I love hearing people’s stories and especially making people feel good. That only confirmed to me that barbering was what I wanted to do. The highlights so far have been building my own studio and sitting down with Hayden Cassidy, where they gave me some invaluable advice.

You’re an NVQ Level 3 Barber. What can you tell me about this and your barbering education?

I started in a local barbershop offering free haircuts. From there, I decided that I wanted to gain a qualification at Mint Academy in Bournemouth on their part-time course. It was an incredible experience working with other passionate students and educators. Currently, I am a part-time barber, soon making the transition to full-time in the coming months.

What can you tell me about your current workplace?

I have my own studio that I work from. It’s a full conversion and gives you that barbershop feel. I hired a local artist to add a mural and had signage added,

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including custom furniture. I want my studio to be a safe and welcoming place for everyone.

You’re a Slick Gorilla stockist. What can you tell me about this and how did come into fruition?

I have used Slick Gorilla since they first came on to the scene and I can’t fault their products. I only want to give my clients a product I personally use. I reached out to them, gave them my story and I have been a stockist ever since. @thebarbermagazine

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What advice would you give an upcoming barber who’s looking to grow?

Trust the process! It is something that you will hear all the time, but when you start doubting yourself those words will resonate. Be patient, stay humble and create opportunities for yourself. Reach out to local barbers and get to know them. Believe in yourself and don’t be scared to take that leap of faith if you are making the switch into barbering. Follow @thefadeist

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BARBERS AROUND THE WORLD

John Duvoisin John Duvoisin is the owner and operator at Liberty Barbershop in Orlando, Florida, and is here to tell us about their beginnings, where their career has taken them and how barbering operates in Orlando.

Photo by @castlewolfpictures

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BARBERS AROUND THE WORLD

Photo by @hartleyphoto Model: @therealjeremymckinnon

Photo by @castlewolfpictures

You’re based in Orlando, Florida. What can you tell me about the barbering scene over there?

Barbering has really blown up in Orlando over the years. Nowadays it’s extremely flush with high-end, beautiful barbershops in every neighbourhood, with everything from the super highfashion, high-level artistic designs with fancy dyed beards to modern traditional multicultural shops like mine and everything in between. Orlando has so many amazing barbershops full of talent that you could pretty much pick by vibe, music, and drink selection alone. There are legitimate, award-winning, celebrity

barber, national and worldwide educatorowned shops all over the place. Since Orlando is largely a transient tourist city, we are used as a destination location from people all over the state, as well as short-term travellers.

Tell me about Liberty Barbershop.

I have owned and operated Liberty Barbershop since Autumn 2008, when I was 26. I would say that I finished growing up and becoming a mature man through the trials and tribulations of owning this small, 250 square foot shop. It is called Liberty because anyone has the freedom to come and get taken care of here. I made sure, early on, in

this place, no one is better than anyone. Everyone gets the exact same treatment.

What are some of the key differences between barbers in Florida and barbers in the UK?

Higher-end UK barbers do way more salon style cutting on the top to create texture, specific finishes and shapes. Whereas, in Florida, most barbers create movement and texture with a little point cutting, texture or chunking shear work, or even using clipper-over-finger to soften the look. Almost every barber I’ve ever met in Florida doesn’t do shampoos, I feel like shampoos happen more in the UK. I believe that most barbers in the UK, and the rest of the world, could spend time improving the organization of how they run their businesses.

Your clientele includes the lads from A Day To Remember. What can you tell me about this?

I ended up getting linked up with Jeremy McKinnon (@therealjeremymckinnon) when they moved to Orlando. It means a lot to me that whenever they have videos, press photos, or TV appearances, I get texted almost immediately about organising the cut schedule. When they are out on tour, I send them to other barber friends of mine like Ryan Taylor (@ryanisabarber) in Houston or Jordan Peterson (@hairxjordan) in Des Moines. Follow @johnthebarber and @libertybarbershop

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CREATE THIS STYLE

Braid and Fade

Tracy Mangan, based in W2 Barbershop Leeds, West Yorkshire, has been a barber for 18 years and is a Gamma Plus UK ambassador. This issue, Tracy talks us through how to create an astonishing Braid and Fade.

T Equipment and Products Used

Stylecraft Saber Clippers Gamma Plus UK Ergo Clipper Gamma Plus UK Absolute Hitters Crazy Bull Cool Bull Hair Tonic Crazy Bull Bull Blaster Pomade Olive Oil Wrap Set Mousse

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he charity-promoting Best Barber in Yorkshire 2022 winner tells us a little about the style: “The Braid and Fade is a popular hair choice for males. It’s fantastic for those who are active, being neat and out of the way. There is no need to style the hair for the duration of the braids. Maintained properly, the braids can last for up to three weeks depending on the size and amount of braids. “Braiding the hair is a protective, low-maintenance style. It avoids hair breakage, keeping the hair nourished, preventing frizziness and can keep split ends away. When the hair is in braids it’s protected from Earth’s elements, helping the hair grow while staying healthy. Resulting in better length retention.” Follow @tracyladybarbermangan

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CREATE THIS STYLE

Step one - Sectioning the Hair

Step two - The Braids

Step three - The Fade

Nice, clean sections are important for making the braids, and overall look, ‘pop’. Use the end of a tail comb for this, using small bobbles to keep the hair away from the section you’re working on. I like to use a pomade to prevent frizz and keep the braids smooth and polished.

Working on one of the clean sections, use a tail comb to take a fine section of hair and split into three. With a little bit of pomade on the partings of the surrounding sections, plait this twice then begin adding a small section of hair either side of the section the braid is being directed in, keeping a good tension.

Map out the fade with trimmers and use a 1 guard open from the guideline to the disconnected hairline at the braids. Next, close the 1 guard and blend the hair. With your thumb on top of the clipper and two fingers underneath, create a fluid c-shaped motion. Follow with your ½ guard open, then closed, until you’re down to no guard to fade the line out. Anytime I put a guard on when fading, I start with an open lever, gradually closing the lever as I blend. Using bigger strokes with the lever open and smaller strokes as the lever closes.

Step four - Shape Up

Step five - Defining

Step six - Maintenance

Make sure not to go into the edges of the front hairline lower than your 1 guard so that the edge stands out more when shaping up, starting off at the middle of the forehead across to each side of the head. Then, use your trimmer like a pencil to give a curved shape at the edges. Finish off by lining up with a cutthroat for a sharper finish and a nice spritz of alcohol.

Finish off the fade cut by teasing out any dark spots, dense patches or lines, going over the area with the previously used guards. To be sure you’re using the correct guard, work with a longer guard and work down, going over the area with light, concentrated strokes. Use the edge of clipper with no guard to tease out any final dark spots. All the while, use a fade brush to grab and lift any small hairs that won’t catch with the clipper.

Use a generous amount of Olive Oil Wrap Set Mousse all over the braids and cover with a silk hair bonnet. Add a little heat to finish off and make sure the mousse has soaked and set in to the braids. Advise the client to use a hair bonnet or durag on a night in bed it locks in moisture, protecting the hair and helps prevent stray hairs and frizziness.

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FINANCE

Stay in control of your finances

Business consultant Phil Jackson from Build Your Salon offers these tips for managing your money within your barbershop.

nergy prices are on the rise and it won’t be long before our manufacturers have to pass increased costs along to our salons. There are, however, a few simple moves you could be making to protect your business and ensure you remain profitable. Firstly, review your prices. To be blunt, things won’t settle down any time soon and you run the risk of running on reduced profit in the meantime. Holding out to see what your suppliers are doing could mean delays of weeks or even months. Far better to decide your prices on the information you have now and make an educated guess on what might happen in the next couple of months. Then, implement any changes sooner rather than later. Price reviews can cause a little upset with your customers (though few will expect your prices to remain the same, particularly in the current climate). You can take some of the sting out of the increases and ensure your prices are set where they should be by reviewing prices more frequently. Six-monthly price reviews tend to mean smaller increases and some services may not need reviewing at all. In times of drastic change, don’t be afraid to increase sooner than that. I am certain your customers would rather that than see you operate at a loss or even have to close your doors for good. Changing prices is far easier if you have made the decision to ditch physical price cards. Make your pricing available online or alternatively, if you have something you want to physically give your customers, exclude the prices

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and instead provide them with a link or QR code where the latest prices can be accessed. That means that changing your prices is a simple two-minute job rather than paying hundreds of pounds for a print run of price cards. It’s also friendlier to the environment. Encourage online bookings. Not only does it mean you can take bookings 24/7, it means your customers are shown the latest, up-to-date prices at the point of booking too. It can make a huge difference to your business, particularly if you implement a booking fee to reduce no-shows. Finally, take the opportunity to review your costs. Even 1% of costs saved can make a massive difference to your profits.

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Sadly, we can’t exclude wages from this review. If you set your commission to an affordable level a few years ago but your fixed costs have increased, either your variable costs (including commission) will need to reduce or you are going to have to reduce your profit margin. Remember to take legal advice before making changes to contracts or pay. There is currently an affection for small businesses and salons that means your customers are less price sensitive. The best way to weather a financial storm is to remain nimble, adapt quickly and keep a firm grip on those things you can control. For more information visit www.buildyoursalon.com

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Prepare for your future with Beauty Through Technology Gold Standards in Aesthetic, Aesthetic & Beauty Training & Devices Laser hair removal is the most popular cosmetic procedure in the UK market. Currently, a very large number of medical clinics and salons offer this service. However, given the large number of laser devices available on the market for hair removal choosing the best laser for rent for hair removal is not so simple. In addition, clients within aesthetic medicine market are becoming more educated and demanding and most of them will definitely specify the type of hair removal on equipment they feel is right for them. The market for the rental of medical laser equipment in UK is a great way for clinics to try before they buy. Whether you’re looking to purchase, rent or lease our quality equipment, you can be sure that we consistently see great results on all our clients. You’re welcome to visit and have a demonstration. Renting can sometime give you the peace of mind that the companies main focus

is matching you and your clients to the best technology for you, not just the most expensive, as both the technology and the monthly payments must work for you and your business for it to work for them. Here at Beauty Through Technology we are that confident that we can find the right device for you and assist you in marketing it in the right way to your clients that we even offer you up to 50% of your monthly rental cost back if you decided to buy within the first 12 months, which is the case with over 70% of the clinics we have rented equipment too. You’re welcome to visit one of our demonstration days across the UK. Renting can also allow you to try before you buy in a very confusing market. The aesthetic equipment market is known for smoke and mirrors and lots of mis-leading marketing, Here at Beauty Through Technology we offer frank and honest advice to clinic owners about the different technologies in the market and the pros and cons of each.

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The most expensive device or technology is not always the right one for you, your clients or your market as many factors have to be considered to make the right choices, and our team with help you understand enough about each technology to make the right choice for you. Cosmetic procedures are more in demand than ever, and this growing popularity is bound to lead to more diverse clientele. Every client has different needs – it is up to you to accommodate them. Technology is always on the path of evolution, and this is no different in the aesthetic industry. So, if you are ready to prepare for the future and take your business to the next step get in-touch with one of our team to find our more. Our laser rentals start from as little as £350 per month and can earn even small shops from £2000 to £5000 per month with the right marketing and support.

CONNECTIONS ASSOCIATIONS

MALE GROOMING PRODUCTS Opie’s Beard Co E: info@opiesbeardco.co.uk W: www.opiesbeardco.co.uk

British Barbers E: admin@britishbarbers.com W: www.britishbarbers.com

The Bluebeards Revenge Bluebeards HQ, Unit One, Langage Business Park, Eagle Road, Plymouth, PL7 5JY T: 01752 898191 W: www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

British Master Barbers Alliance E: info@britishmasterbarbers.com W: www.britishmasterbarbers.com

BARBER & SALON FURNITURE Albert Ewan Design 28 Hayton Close, Cramlington, NE23 2FN T: 016 70 73 89 79 E: studio@albertewandesign.com W: www.albertewandesign.com

Urban Jack 20-22 Wenlock Road, London, N1 7GU T: 020 363 341 20

PROFESSIONAL BARBERSHOP SUPPLIES Hair & Beauty Depot Unit 2, Victoria Road, South Ruislip, HA4 0QF T: 020 3475 8869 E: sales@hairandbeautydepot.com W: www.hairandbeautydepot.com

REM UK Ltd Glenfield Mill, Glenfield Rd, Nelson, Lancs, BB9 8AW T: 01282 619977 E: sales@rem.co.uk

MIX Ltd The Cabin, Rectory Farm, Fambridge Rd, Ashingdon, Essex SS4 3LW T: 01702 435804 E: info@mixhairltd.co.uk W: www.mixhairltd.co.uk

BARBERING TOOLS Andis T: 01635 581 958 E: info@andisco.com W: www.andis.com

Morgan’s Pomade Company Limited Tyler Way, Swalecliffe, Whitstable, Kent, CT5 2RT T: +44 (0)1227 792761 E: sales@morganspomade.co.uk W: www.morganspomade.co.uk

EDUCATION Training Solutions in Hair Ltd National Training locations (England, Scotland Wales, NI and ROI) T: 0208 845 4115 E: info@uktraining-solutionsinhair.co.uk W: www.uktraining-solutionsinhair.co.uk

SALON MANAGEMENT SOFTWARE Salon Tracker T: 0113 350 8230 E: info@salontracker.co.uk W: www.salontracker.co.uk

ENTERTAINMENT TheMusicLicence T: 0800 086 8804 (quoting ‘Barber Magazine’) W: www.pplprs.co.uk

TRAINING Saks Apprenticeships 55-59 Duke Street, Darlington, Co Durham, DL3 7SD W: www.saksapprenticeships.co.uk

HAIR REMOVAL Lycon UK Training Academy 343 Fulham Palace Road, SW6 6TD T: 0207 590 9300 E: sales@lyconuk.com W: www.lyconuk.com

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