The Barber Magazine October 2022

The Hair Has No Gender Issue

Hello! The leaves are starting to brown and there’s a slight chill in the air. Summer is officially over and, as we’re getting ready for gloves and scarves, it’s almost time to reflect upon the year and everything that’s been going on.

In this issue, we want to bring you an insight into the benefits of going gender-inclusive within your barbering business. You can find our interview with HAIR HAS NO GENDER founder, Keri Blue, starting on page 13.

We also touch on the importance of marketing within your business on page 21, running alongside our regular features such as Create This Style and Barbers Around the World.

We’re incredibly excited to share this issue with you and hope that you enjoy it!

From myself, and everyone here at Barber, enjoy the issue and we’ll see you next month!

Editor

On the

Image courtesy of Dan Lord Forecast Designs

8

In this issue:

Cover Story: We find out what makes Sid Sottung Academy tick.

10 News: We speak with the minds behind Haircuts4Homeless.

13

18

Gender Inclusivity: Keri Blue, Founder of HAIR HAS NO GENDER, talks to us about the importance of gender inclusivity.

Barbershop of the Month: Ebos Barbershop owner runs us through their fantastic interior.

21

24

26

Marketing: Curious about marketing within your business? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered!

Create This Style: Sean Hayes guides us through his take on curtains.

Barbers Around the World: Beniamin Rafaila talks business in Romania.

Editor

Connor Jenkins connor@tgmpublishing.co.uk

Commercial Director Mike Smith mike@tgmpublishing.co.uk 01795 509102

Design and Production

Grant Waters, James Taylor 01795 509108

Credit Facilities Manager

Lauren Sharpe creditcontrol@cimltd.co.uk 01795 509103

Digital & Web Developer Matt Coppard

Managing Director John Denning

© 2022 TGM Publishing Limited, 1st Floor, Saphir House, 5 Jubilee Way, Faversham, Kent, ME13 8GD. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form – electronic, mechanical or physical – without express prior permission and written consent of the publisher. Contributions are invited and when not accepted will be returned only if accompanied by a fully stamped and addressed envelope. Manuscripts should be type written. No responsibility can be taken for drawings, photographs or literary contributions during transmission or in the editor’s hands. In the absence of an agreement the copyright of all contributions, literary, photographic or artistic, belongs to TGM Publishing Limited. The publisher accepts no responsibility in respect of advertisements appearing in the magazine and the opinions expressed do not necessarily represent the views of the Publisher. The Publisher cannot accept liability for any loss arising from the late appearance or non publication of any advertisement.

thebarbermagazine.co.uk

Industry Update

Andis® Company launches new clippers

Andis® Company is excited to announce the launch of its new professional, cordless reVITE Clippers.

Both uniquely designed reVITE Clippers include a stainless-steel blade design which combines the functionality of a removable blade and adjustable blade in one single tool; allowing the stylist or barber to make changes between a Taper blade and Fade blade quickly and easy.

The reVITE also has a large, textured grip that enhances comfort to prevent slipping, a tapered body to improve ergonomics for all hand sizes as well as a new highspeed rotary motor with Constant Speed Technology; meaning it won’t drag or stall. The reVITE features two hours of non-stop run time while the

Braw Beard

This year, as Braw Beard enters its tenth year in business, it’s time to reflect upon and celebrate all that has happened over the past decade and the events which have culminated in this Braw 10 Year Anniversary.

“I never imagined what would unfold from making the first bottle of Braw Beard oil 10 years ago. The brand has led me to some incredible situations; from building a worldwide close-knit community called The Brawtherhood, to helping people overcome issues and insecurities about their facial hair - right through to live TV interviews, public speaking gigs, having dinner with rockstars, the brand being represented in video games and even being asked to perform a marriage ceremony in the USA.

The past 10 years have seen some of my most difficult times too, losing my mother, my grandfather and my first business mentor, as well as navigating

LED battery status indicator turns from blue to red when battery level is below 10%.

The black reVITE features a Fade blade which adjusts from size 00000-000 for ultra-close cutting, and an unbreakable aluminium housing for years of dependable use. This reVITE is great for clipper-over-comb and freehand work.

The gray reVITE features a Taper blade which adjusts from size 000-1 for allaround haircutting. However, this version is designed for those who prefer to create with an ultra-lightweight clipper and features a composite housing. This combination of light weight and slim shape is perfect for smaller hands.

For more information visit www.andis. com £189.00 MSRPAndis® Company is currently celebrating its centennial year;

the reVITE Clippers are the first Andis professional clippers to use the new visual brand language since its recent rebranding.

To keep up with Andis® Company, follow them on Instagram, TikTok and Facebook.

thebarbermagazine.co.uk @thebarbermagazine @BarberMagUK /BarberMagazine6 my company through a recession, Brexit and the COVID-19 pandemic. All of it has shaped me as a person. I look forward to developing and growing with my company over the next 10 years;

using my experiences as a foundation to evolve and help others.”

“Braw Beard is not your typical e-commerce brand, we’re building Unity Through Growth.” JJ, Owner, highlights.

Strand Two Pos. UnitLegacy Chair

Bala Mirror

Sienna Reception Desk

Hove Mirror

Vintage Jack Chair

Chrysler Chair

Remi 2 Pos. Island

Legend Chair

Nova Reception Desk

Cadilla Chair

York Mirror

Sid Sottung Academy

Sid Sottung is the founder and director of the Sid Sottung brand. The main focus is education for fellow barbers, hairdressers and those who aspire to become one. He is also a consultant for businesses and products.

After a decade of cutting his teeth in some of the most exclusive salons across the globe, Sid turned his full attention to inspiring and teaching the next generation of barbers and hairdressers. Sid Sottung Academy strives to push the boundaries of hairdressing and barbering education.

With a career as varied as it is successful, Sid’s dedication to the provision of the highest quality hairdressing and barbering education led to the opening of the Sid Sottung Academy.

Sid fell in love with barbering at the age of 14 while working as a shop assistant in a traditional Italian barbershop in New York. Eager to make his mark on the industry, Sid began a 14year career with Vidal Sassoon by training in their Downtown New York salon.

On the back of a decorated career in Sassoon salons, Sid graduated to their academies as an educator, teaching both hairdressing and barbering.

Sid’s first stop was the Santa Monica Academy where, as part of the educational team, he crafted hair for television, as well as taught at international hair shows as far afield as China.

Sid then made the trip across the Atlantic to teach in Mayfair, London; first at the Vidal Sassoon Advanced Academy followed by the Davie Mew’s Academy. After parting ways with Sassoon, Sid pursued an exciting freelance career guesting and teaching in exclusive salons and barbershops.

He was also proudly a member of the hair team, working on the 2005 blockbuster Pride and Prejudice. Having trained educators and written curriculums for other academies, Sid felt

that 2014 was the correct time to open his very own academy.

Having travelled the globe educating for Vidal Sassoon and a host of other leading industry names, Sid opened the doors of the Sid Sottung Academy in February 2014.

After surviving the pandemic, which was the most testing time for all within the beauty and hair industry, Sid Sottung opened an academy in the heart of Edinburgh, which offers bespoke education.

To this day, Sid Sottung Academy is

growing and improving everything they do.

Sid said: “At the Sid Sottung Academy, we focus on all aspects of hair. In the past, we have mostly been known for our barbering education side but we have branched out the past few years and are now offering education in all aspects of hair, which includes cutting and styling ladies’ hair as well as hair colouring.

“Here at Sid Sottung Academy, we believe hair has no gender. Therefore, we have merged and adapted our teaching styles to suit that.

“As an academy, we

are dedicated to providing high-quality, elite training and are proud to offer the finest tuition. Our aim is to provide all our students with the skills and knowledge to go and make their unique mark on the world of hair.”

Aside from the success of the academy, Sid also works with a wide range of product brand associations.

“I am the International Creative Director for Sakura Scissors and Global Artist for Mood Colour, a Proraso Educator, an Andis Global Educator and have my own special range with the amazing Captain Fawcett. I recently started a new exciting relationship with KMS products as their guest artist.

In 2022 alone, Sid has won a variety of awards for his outstanding barbering work.

“This year has been a very exciting one for Sid Sottung Academy, as at the beginning of the year, we shot our academy collection ‘AmeriKa’, which was later published in various publications.

“Our Head Educator, Matthew

Fleetwood, is currently on the set of ‘The Crown’, styling men’s hair, which is an incredible achievement and I am beyond proud of everything he has, and is, achieving. Our Colour Educator, Guste Kliukaite, also become an Educator for Mood, an amazing Italian brand.

“After a long break from entering competitions, I decided it was time to give it another shot, and I am so proud to say we won an award for Colour World UK for Best Men’s Colour.

“Guste was also a finalist for a Colour World UK for Creative Colour Genius and I have also won Wet Shave Expert award at the Scottish Hair & Beauty Awards.”

Looking to the future, Sid explains his future plans: “The future holds more travelling, more knowledge, inspiration, happiness and spreading the Sid Sottung way of approaching hair, pushing the boundaries and running businesses.”

Visit www.sidsottung.com for more information.

Moving exhibition Angel Central

Haircuts4Homeless, the registered charity set up by veteran hairdresser Stewart Roberts MBE, teamed up with Angel Central Islington in September, to exhibit beautiful portrait photographs from clients over the past three years.

Inspired by the actions of hairdressers all over the world who cut hair for the homeless, Stewart set out not only to do this himself, but to build a whole community of skilled volunteers who can offer their services free of charge. Over the past eight years, Haircuts4Homeless has evolved from a single session in Essex, to 65 projects across the UK and Ireland, with over 600 volunteers and over 40,000 haircuts given so far.

In that time, Stewart has met so many wonderful people with amazing stories that deserve to be told. Therefore, three years ago he began his collaboration with photographer Jack Eames and session hairstylist Leigh Keates, with the ambition to document clients’ spoken words in an inspirational coffee table book - Hear Me, See Me.

The exhibition held at Angel Central, showcased the exquisite photography from Hear Me, See Me, encapsulating the importance of the charity’s mission via beautiful black and white portraits of Haircuts4Homeless clients.

With press, industry experts and many well-known faces at the launch of the exhibition, Stewart hoped to raise awareness of the charity, and to that he did and more. The thoughtprovoking imagery and intimate telling’s from clients, humanised the face of homelessness by challenging stigmas and stereotypes. In the stark, white gallery space at Angel Central, the message couldn’t have been louder – the smallest of actions can have the greatest effect. A haircut can have a huge impact on a person, not just improving their confidence but making them feel cared for and listened to, a moment they may not often experience.

Haircuts4Homeless Founder, Stewart Roberts commented: “Over the past three years we’ve met so many people and heard so many different stories, to be able to partner with Angel Central and put these stories on display to the public and raise awareness of the work that we do is something I’m really

proud of. For us this was not just an exhibition, not just a book or a haircut, but a community that creates a space for wellbeing and acceptance and I’m delighted to be able to share the stories of the people that we’ve worked with over the years.”

Adam Cummins, Centre Manager, Angel Central said: “The work that Stewart and the team has done at Haircuts4Homeless is something that they should all be extremely proud of. I’m delighted that could host their exhibition and bring something new to Angel central for our visitors.”

The Haircuts4Homeless exhibition will now be on display at Beehives, Bobs & Blowdries at the Piece Hall in Halifax, from 17th September to 16th October 2022. A first of its kind exhibition, celebrating the last 70 years of British hairdressing, showcasing iconic looks of the past and highlighting the importance of sustainability in the future.

Visit www.haircuts4homeless.com

Gender inclusivity

Is your business promoting an inclusive environment? We caught up with Keri Blue, founder of HAS NO GENDER, some of the issues the LGBTQIA+ community face within our industry, and what we can all do to help.

HAIR to find out the community

Photo by hairhasnogender.co.uk

Human first

We got in touch with the mind behind HAIR HAS NO GENDER to discuss gender inclusivity and the importance of bringing this into your everyday lives as barbers.

Now, more than ever, people are realising that there is such an importance to gender inclusivity within not just your business, but the world as a whole. You never know the weight that can be carried by the use of the wrong pronouns, ignorance of the everchanging world or simply refusing to be a part of it.

HAIR HAS NO GENDER exists because there are a large number of people from the LGBTQIA+ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer or questioning, intersex, asexual, and more), female and non-binary communities who are intimidated to approach a barbershop.

Short Hair Specialist and Founder of HAIR HAS NO GENDER, Keri Blue (@ keribluebarber), explained that, a few

years ago, they were refused a haircut in a barbershop because the shop “only cut men’s hair” - something that, we here at the Barber Magazine, have no tolerance for whatsoever.

“The experience stuck with me,” Keri said, “I quickly learned that this is something that happens to people every day because even in 2022, there’s a lot of prejudice and inequality in the hair industry.” This was just another spark which helped fuel the amazing HHNG, a UK-based consultancy service to help business owners bring gender awareness to their spaces.

Keri doesn’t believe that all of the negativity comes from a bad place, however, there is a major lack of the correct education within the industry for making your businesses open to everyone.

“I launched HAIR HAS NO GENDER during lockdown as a way to find out some truths about the industry from other LGBTQIA+ people who had their own stories to tell,” Keri explains.

The Barber Magazine is hoping to spread the word about inclusivity, not just this month, but as an ongoing practice to our readers. The fact that people are getting turned away from barbershops speaks volumes, and we’re on a mission to ensure that all barbering businesses are accessible to all.

“I’ve lost count of how many news stories I’ve read about people being turned away from barbershops because of who they are. It’s a scary thought that transphobia and homophobia still exist in the barbering industry today.

“Often these attitudes will be covered up by excuses like ‘we’re only insured

to cut men’s hair’ - a statement which we know is completely irrelevant, as confirmed by some of the industry’s top insurance brokers. We believe that hair is hair, and we are on a mission for the barbering industry to see people as human first.” Keri continues.

Many barbershop owners tend to overlook the fact that not including every person with an interest in your premises could have some major effects on revenue and footfall. That being said, how can being gender-inclusive impact your business?

Ultimately, it comes down to the fact that denying potential clients entry won’t bring in any added revenue, so there’s no need to even consider it in the first place.

“Turning customers away based on their gender or their identity is not only illegal, it’s bad for business too,” Keri said, “Barbers should be educated enough to be able to cut the hair of any client who walks through their door, providing it’s within their skillset. We’re not asking anyone to drop their clippers and go learn how to do a bouncy blowdry.”

Keri has rebranded themself as a “short hair specialist”, which means that if you have short hair then they can cut it without judgement or bias in any way, shape or form.

“In the hairdressing industry, we’re working hard to encourage all salons to have gender-neutral pricing based on short or long hair, moving away from that outdated and irrelevant model of ‘men’s’ and ‘women’s’ hair, based on the assumption that all men have short hair and all women have long hair,” Keri explains.

Keri has observed that, in recent years, more and more salons are adhering to gender-neutral pricing which is a fantastic step in the right direction, however, believes that there is still much to be done.

“In the last few years, diversity, inclusion and representation have become so integral to the way people run their businesses, and LGBTQIA+ people are finally being given a seat at the table. It’s great to see our industry embrace celebrations and stand with us as allies during Pride, but the problems our community faces happen all year round,” said Keri.

In a study conducted by HHNG,

We are on a mission for the barbering industry to see people as human first.

statistics show that over a quarter of people who responded have experienced direct homophobia or transphobia within a salon or barbershop environment. Not only that, but over a third had straight up been refused service. “We still have an enormous amount of work to do,” Keri adds.

There is a wealth of knowledge out there for people who are looking to learn and spread awareness, and we encourage everyone to take a look for themselves. That being said, Keri sees that some people find it more difficult to understand than others.

“Our advice is to forget what you know about the constructs of gender,” Keri said, “What we are trying to do is rewrite years of traditions and assumptions, and we know it won’t happen overnight. You might mess up and say the wrong thing, but persevere and keep trying.”

So, as readers, what should you take from this article? We want to ensure that you are getting the very best information, so we asked Keri what their top tips are for being more inclusive: “As consumers, our biggest source of information is social media, so make sure you’re following LGBTQIA+ creators and see what they have to say, and learn from them.

“Don’t be afraid to reach out to people if you have questions - nobody is offended by people trying to learn. Take a look at your branding, does it look inclusive to you? How about your pricing structure, do you reference men and women? These are such simple things you can change that will make all the difference.” Keri said.

We encourage any and all barbers to follow Keri on Instagram at @ keribluebarber, as well as HAIR HAS NO GENDER at @hhnguk as both pages regularly share content, tips, thoughts and advice on gender inclusivity within the barbering industry. Keri believes that’s a great starting point for beginning your inclusivity journey, and we couldn’t agree more.

Keri offers digital or in-person training, so we encourage you, or a member of your team, to reach out as this would be nothing but a beneficial step in the right direction for everyone.

“Never forget, we’re all human first.” Keri finishes.

Visit hairhasnogender.co.uk for more information.

Never forget, we’re all human first.

Five reasons to go gender-neutral

Recognising the need for an all-gender approach with fair pricing hairdressing, Maisie, Manager, and James and George, Directors, have now transitioned their studios to HARE – where they welcome everyone. Here are their top reasons for gender neutrality.

1 - Closing the gap

There has historically been a strong divide between barbershops and hairdressing salons. Noticing a gap in the market, we have built a brand that brings the industries closer. We provide high-quality haircuts in a neutral environment, where all genders pay a fair price depending on the time taken. All of our stylists are qualified hairdressers and barbers, meaning we can cut all hair.

- A safe space

We provide a safe space for all. Rebranded to ‘HARE – All Hair | All Gender’ everyone is welcome in our studios. The LGBTQ+ community are loving our fair focus studios. We believe a true hairstylist can work with all hair types and lengths, so we train hairdressing and barbering techniques, offering NVQs and advanced precision cutting training. We charge £26 for a standard male haircut, so sure as hell we offer the same for other genders. By making everyone feel welcome, our studios have become truly special places.

‘‘Good haircuts grow in not out” is our mantra. We believe if a haircut loses shape or displays unbalanced weight within two, three or even four weeks, it’s a poor haircut. This approach has been imperative while crossing the gender divide and offering universally appealing haircuts.

Since going gender neutral, we have been shocked by how experimental the mature clientele is. Once trust is built, we are seeing our grey brigade bringing loyalty and expression to the studios. Times have changed and our older clientele is now more aware and open to these modifications.

We offer a walk-in service, which everyone enjoys. In salons where washes are required and blow dries encourage mandatory bookings, this discourages impulsivity and hairstyle changes. Hairdressers sometimes hide behind their fancy finish and don’t have the precision skills to risk going short on clients. Not everyone wants a round brush blow-dry. We feel everyone should be encouraged to have a funky, low-maintenance cut that works with their face shape in an environment that welcomes all. Visit www.harestudio.co.uk and follow @hareeynsham, @haremarston and @woodstockbarbers on Instagram.

Ebosbarbers

Ibrahim Elkaan is the owner of Ebosbarbers, an Edinburgh-based local that has developed an incredible base of clients as well as a stunning interior.

The year was 2011, and Ibrahim had been in the industry for a few years at this point, developing a love for barbering like no other. With constant growth and a steady influx of clients behind them, Ibrahim decided that it was time to take the next step and open their own business which would come to be known as Ebosbarbers.

Ibrahim, 40, has been in the barbering industry since they were 26 and has amassed a wealth of knowledge of barbering over the years. “In 2011, I started a local barbershop In Edinburgh, Dalkeith town. I couldn’t have done this without the help of being a part of a community and having the right business communications. My business has been so successful and I am so incredibly grateful for this.” Ibrahim said.

After a while, Ibrahim came to realise

that social media had been becoming an integral part of men’s grooming and barbershops never failed to impress with their top-of-the-range interiors. Taking this into consideration, Ibrahim decided that they should make a strong point with their interior décor, demonstrating a sense of fashion and sleekness that would go to be unmatched.

“I had always an intention to move to a bigger shop and design it as I wish,” Ibrahim explains, “Then, an opportunity came to me!”

Overall, this was a huge project, taking Ibrahim and their team around five months to finish. The interiors were designed with a sense of looking to the future, with a touch of uniqueness that takes away from the outside world.

“I wanted to design something different,” Ibrahim continues, “Overall, I wanted it to look futuristic and different.

There is a high ceiling and smart pendant lights around the walls. This is covered with a nice matte black colour that brings a nice visual effect and keeps the intentions of the lights on target.”

There are even shiny tiles, paired with some metallic effect tiles, to create a look that brings a “clean and smooth” feel to any clientele who steps through the door. The black and gold highlights are something to behold, especially

when paired with the bespoke desk and working stations that barbers will have the chance to utilise.

Ibrahim says that, overall, Ebos culminates as a dream that comes alongside their overall love of this fantastic industry, barbering. Creating your own barbershop is something that every barber could strive to achieve, and is very possible if you truly love the trade.

Ibrahim finishes: “This was a dream

which appeared with my love of barbering. I would say to my fellow barbers all over the country that success is entirely possible if you love barbering. You really need to have a vision that you can build with your clients and your barber friends. Lastly, and very importantly, utilise social media! It has helped us a lot to get to where we are now.”

Overall, Ibrahim’s dream has become a reality, and they want nothing more than to reassure anyone who wants to make a name for themselves in the industry that they can do the same. The bold interior of Ebos speaks for itself, take a look by following @ebosbarbers on Instagram.

We dive in to the wide world of marketing within your barbering business. Photo by @gabriella.clare on Instagram.

Marketing with the Duke

Coventry-based, multi-award-winning barber, Michael McCarthy talks to us about marketing and shares his experiences with creating a successful business.

Michael owns the Stylish Duke brand, an awardwinning name which was awarded Britain’s Best Barbershop in 2021, after only three years in business.

Stylish Duke has grown exponentially over the last few years. This is all down to Michael’s fantastic tips and tactics, bringing high standards to the business that have supplied the Duke with an array of loyal, supportive clients.

One of the many things that Michael believes contributes hugely to his marketability is the fact that, at Stylish Duke, they’re welcoming to all types of clients. “We have clients from all walks of life come in, from people in the music industry to homeless people who are looking for a coffee and a chat. We treat everyone with the utmost respect.” Michael said.

Michael is constantly trying to up his game, working with the local community

on projects to get the name out. He is a firm believer that, when marketing to your clients, quality is of the utmost importance and tries to offer a higher standard of services than his competition. “I only work on an appointment basis, so I give my full attention to one person,” Michael adds.

Something that often goes unnoticed is that marketing isn’t necessarily simply

selling products to your clients. It can be the overall promotion of your business. Michael always asks his clients if they’re happy to leave a Google review. This has helped them to achieve the highest fivestar rater barbershop spot on Google in Coventry.

As always, social media promotion plays a huge part in your brand’s marketability. Michael makes a point to constantly be promoting the brand on his socials.

“I’m always showing off my work on all the platforms and going to all the hair shows, networking with others in the industry. I’m also writing articles, working with magazines and working with other brands,” Michael said, “I am constantly

You have to spend money to make money.

promoting my brand on social media, posting videos of my products on all platforms and using them to create quirky haircuts.

“When you have the right knowledge and skills to do the job properly, people become emotionally attached to the brand and want to be part of it. I have also had the opportunity to have my brand and myself featured in multiple magazines.”

Michael sees that entering a lot of competitions is one of the best ways to raise his profile. Alongside this, branding everything he posts and works on is hugely beneficial. “I ask people to post on their social media after buying Stylish Duke hair products,” Michael adds, “I try to always have my brand on display. I wear T-shirts, bags, hats, socks, and even shorts. I give stickers to everyone I meet!”

For all of you newcomers in the

industry who are here looking for some more top tips, Michael stands by industry networking and promotion and offers this advice: “Unfortunately, you have to spend money to make money. Promoting your business is key to standing out in an industry full of talented people.

“Work with your community on projects in your area. Also, getting your brand featured in a magazine will raise your profile in the industry and use all the social media platforms to promote your business. Have your logo and brand on display at all times!”

Michael ultimately sees that the key to being successful in business is hard work, long hours and always putting the client’s best interests first.

“Never forget that without our clients, we have no business,” Michael adds, “If you do your job to the best of your ability, a client will almost certainly

recommend you to a friend or family member. In return, this will promote your brand and business.

“If you want it bad enough, you will be successful. You just have to keep in mind it doesn’t happen overnight. You will have to work hard to achieve it.

“The truth is, unfortunately, that we get nothing for free in this world, especially in business. If you promote your business the right way, you will only grow stronger. I believe in you, now all you have to do is believe in yourself and achieve the success you deserve.” Michael finishes.

It seems that the best way to make your brand marketable and appealing is to keep your foot on the gas, work hard and ensure that you’re providing nothing but the best for you and your clients.

Follow @stylishdukebarbershop and @stylishdukehairproducts on Instagram. Visit www.stylishduke.co.uk for more information.

Sean’s 80’s Curtains

Sean Hayes, Australian AwardWinning Barber, walks us through how to create his own take on curtains.

Imade the decision in 2019 to make the career change from sparky to a barber. From the moment I started at Thomas Lloyd Barbering Academy in Cardiff, I knew I had made the right choice.

When I finished at the academy, I moved back to Australia, where my good friend Sam Squires has just opened Backbone Barbershop. We worked hard to build a strong client base and after a year, it was time for a second location for me to run.

I was lucky enough to be named as a Wahl Australia ambassador in 2020, a finalist in the AMBA awards for best classic men’s collection and, this year, I was overwhelmed to be a finalist for Australian Modern Barber of the year as well as showcasing my work at hair

Mizutani Shorem X Wahl Seniors

Wahl Detailers

Babyliss FX Foils

Dyson Dryer Y.S. Park Combs

festival in Sydney.

The style I have chosen is something I see more and more of in the shop. I find that the longer, more natural styles from the eighties and nineties are returning. So, I have created my take on curtains,

using my model’s natural part and a slightly shinier product to give a Jersey Boy-inspired look from the eighties, with a nice taper to give that modern, sharp finish.

Follow @seanhayeshair on Instagram.

Step one

Choose this section pattern to isolate the top from the sides, and create the triangle at the back to retain as much weight as possible through the crown area to allow for maximum movement through your scissor work.

Step two

Start your scissor work by working in diagonal sections backwards, bringing the comb in from underneath to find your guide. Repeat on the other side and meet in the middle at the back.

Step three

Release the triangle section and take diagonal sections, overdirecting to the guideline from the sides. Work through those sections and repeat on the other side. Crosscheck and soften the weight left with point cutting.

Step four

Take a section diagonally back from the recession point and comb down till you find the guide from the sides and cut to match. Next, split the top in the middle and join to the sides again. Repeat on the other side. Now, you are left with a peak on top of the head which you’ll point cut to remove, whilst creating texture at the same time.

Step five

Now you can dry it off, this is where you’ll create your finished shape. Spray some sea salt spray into the hair and blow dry the top, getting as much volume as possible into the hair on a medium heat and then a cold blast to set the hair.

Step six

Finally, clean up all the edges, creating a tapered finish at the temples and the nape. Use your detailers to line up. You can now do a bit more refining, using scissor over comb to remove any weight lines from the clippers, as well as point cutting the dry hair to remove more weight and create a little more texture. Finish the haircut by styling with Morgan’s Matte Pomade.

Ben The Old School Barber

We talk with a top-of-the-line barber from Romania to find out a little about their career and how they have grown over the years.

Please introduce yourself to our readers.

My name is Rafaila Beniamin (@ben_the_ oldschool_barber on Instagram) and I am the owner/creative director of Hair Hood. I also work as a barber and educator in Romania.

What can you tell me about your barbering career?

I started my career ten years ago. I enjoy doing this craft and I try to inspire more barbers worldwide to carry on the tradition of barbering, so as many generations as possible can enjoy the experience of classic barbershops.

This consists of the ritual that our grandparents used to have by walking in

for a shave, haircut, a laugh, or hearing the latest news from the barbers.

How has your career changed over the years?

I have tried to push myself forward so I can reach a good level of skill. I continue to do this every single day because, in my opinion, this is the only way someone can evolve.

After years of work, I can say that I have reached some of my goals. One of them is to be recognised worldwide and inspire more barbers who are aiming to start a career in this industry. One of the ways this is possible is because of our YouTube channel, Hair Hood. We reached 900k subs in less than two years, and we expect to reach one million subs by the end of this year.

Another accomplishment is the academy that we prepare to open next year. This will be another great project for us, because of the chance to teach barbers around the world the classic craft of barbering.

Next year will be a big year for us. We’re preparing our barbering products brand wich is called ‘El Porco’, and it will be something great. We have put a lot of work in over the past few years to improve the barbering products that are now on the market.

What makes Romanian barbering unique?

The quality of the services, and the respect for the customer.

Any general thoughts or advice you’d like to share with our readers?

I want to give advice to the young barbers who are also on this road: Work hard, stay humble, improve yourselves every single day and keep the classics alive!

Waterman & Webb

Matt Spray with Firm Hold & Low Sheen

Finish. The 150ml Matte Spray is a humidity resistant, long-lasting hair spray. Providing a firm hold and low sheen finish, keeping the hair in place throughout the day.

RRP: £9.00

Uppercut Deluxe

Pink Matte Pomade Collector’s Kit – The Matte Pomade performs exceptionally well in a range of hair lengths and types. Matte Pomade has been designed to create a broad range of styles, both classic and modern. Don’t let the creamy appearance fool you, Matte Pomade really packs a punch once applied to your hair giving grip and hold to assist in achieving a great look that lasts.

This product is also water-soluble so it can be washed out with ease. With a smell so good you’ll almost want to eat it, this versatile product is a must have in your styling range.

RRP: £24.00

Telfer & Ross

The mix of essential oils are engineered to bring a good nutritional balance to your beard without stripping away the natural goodness, helping your hair and body achieve their best look and feel. Best to apply after a shower or washing the face on a towel dried beard. Use between 2-4 drops of beard oil, for a short trimmed beard use 2-3 drops and for a longer beard, 3-4 drops are sufficient. The airless pump bottle makes application easy and convenient. Use daily to keep the beard in good condition and skin moisturised. Warm a few drops of beard oil in the hands before gently smoothing and massaging into the beard.

into the beard.

RRP: £12.50

Renscene

Barbicide 1 Litre Jar. Ideal for use in salons, spas, medical facilities, athletic facilities and institutions. Custom moulded glass with stainless steel tray for easy immersion. Provides convenient, easy disinfection of grooming instruments and salon tools. Carries a no-rust guarantee and will not impair even the finest cutting edge instruments made of carbon steel.

easy disinfection of grooming instruments and salon tools. Carries a no-rust

RRP: £26.00 (excluding V.A.T.)

The Bluebeards Revenge

With its utterly unique ingot shape and cool frosty appearance, the Classic Ice Soap Bar promises to stand out from the crowd. Featuring the classic scent inspired by traditional British barbershops, this moisturising hand and body bar will help to revive your skin on a daily basis. Check out the Cuban Gold and Big Blue Soap Bars for equally chunky choices!

RRP: £4.99

British Barbers

E: admin@britishbarbers.com

W: www.britishbarbers.com

British Master Barbers Alliance

E: info@britishmasterbarbers.com

W: www.britishmasterbarbers.com

BARBER & SALON FURNITURE

Concept Salon Design

T: 0151 523 0132

E: sales@salonfurniture.co.uk

W: www.salonfurniture.co.uk

REM

The home of British Manufactured

Barber Furniture. Affordable luxury for the aspiring Barbershop with all products available in a choice of over 25 fabrics and laminates.

T: 01282 619977

E: sales@rem.co.uk

W: w ww.rem.co.uk

Facebook: @remuklimited

Twitter: @remuksalons

Instagram: @remuklimited

BARBERING TOOLS

Andis

Our industry-leading clippers and trimmers are used by barbers worldwide. Andis believes that creativity makes the world a better place and develops tools and educational resources that help everyone create their way

W: www.andis.com

Facebook: AndisCompany

Twitter: @AndisCompany

Instagram: @andisco_uk

YouTube: www.youtube.com/c/ Andiscompany/featured

ENTERTAINMENT

TheMusicLicence

T: 0800 086 8804 (quoting ‘Barber Magazine’)

W: www.pplprs.co.uk

HAIR REMOVAL

Lycon UK Training Academy

343 Fulham Palace Road, SW6 6TD

T: 0207 590 9300

E: sales@lyconuk.com

W: www.lyconuk.com

MALE GROOMING PRODUCTS

The Bluebeards Revenge

Bluebeards HQ, Unit One, Langage Business Park, Eagle Road, Plymouth, PL7 5JY

T: 01752 898191

W: www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

Urban Jack

20-22 Wenlock Road, London, N1 7GU

T: 020 363 341 20

PROFESSIONAL BARBERSHOPSUPPLIES

MIX Ltd

The Cabin, Rectory Farm, Fambridge Rd, Ashingdon, Essex SS4 3LW

T: 01702 435804

E: info@mixhairltd.co.uk

W: www.mixhairltd.co.uk

Morgan’s Pomade Company Limited

Tyler Way, Swalecliffe, Whitstable, Kent, CT5 2RT

T: +44 (0)1227 792761

E: sales@morganspomade.co.uk

W: www.morganspomade.co.uk

SALON MANAGEMENT SOFTWARE

Salon Tracker

Salon Tracker is a salon management system designed to improve organisation and ease the day to day running of barber businesses, whilst making the booking experience seamless for the clients.

T: 0113 350 8230

E: info@salontracker.co.uk

W: www.salontracker.co.uk

Facebook: SalonTracker

Twitter: @SalonTrackerLtd

Instagram: @salontrackersoftware

Mental Health & Afro Hair

Image by @lukejonesdesign on Instagram.

Wow, what an issue! We had so much fun putting these pages together, from Sid Sottung right through to Beniamin Rafaila. We hope that you had a great time reading! So, what’s next? Let’s talk ‘November’...

Our first main focus next month is mental health. We’re going to be speaking with some industry professionals about the importance of it, why you should be implementing things for it within your barbering business and how much of a positive impact you could have on not just your clients, but yourself and your team, too.

Whilst we’re on the subject of mental health, we’re also happy to announce that the team here at Barber are doing Movember! This is in aid of mental health and suicide prevention, prostate cancer and testicular cancer. We’ll be growing a set of moustaches to get people to ask us why we have them and what we’re doing it for.

Be sure to follow us on the social media handles at the bottom of this page so that you can see the pics! If you’d like to donate to the amazing cause, please visit movember.com/t/barber-magazine

We’re also going to be working on a big focus on afro hair next month, including tips, tricks, products and top industry advice for your businesses. We can’t wait to show you what we’ve got in store for you!

From myself, and everyone here at Barber, I hope that you have a fantastic month and I’ll catch you in the next issue!

Editor

SCAN