Cincinnati Magazine - December 2020 Edition by Cincinnati Magazine

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Ways to Ways to Love Love Cincinnati Cincinnati

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F E AT U R E S D E C E M B E R 2 02 0 A STITCH IN TIME GO AHEAD, TREAT YOURSELF AND YOUR FURRY FRIEND TO A HAND-STITCHED PET PORTRAIT. IT’S BEEN A ROUGH YEAR.

BEST OF THE CITY

This year has been one long, strange trip, indeed. But that doesn’t mean we’ve been at a loss for some really groovy reasons to celebrate. Here, we reveal 50 far-out ways to give peace a chance.

SING A SONG OF CINCINNATI

P. 54

More than 200 different recorded songs have Cincinnati in the title, from early blues and country tunes to Spanish power ballads and Welsh rock tributes to Cincinnati Cola, according to “pop music archeologist” Chris Richardson. How many do you know? BY STEVEN ROSEN

PHOTOGRAPH BY LANCE ADKINS

BACK TO NATURE

P. 58

How Heritage Acres Memorial Sanctuary in Anderson Township came to be the area’s only dedicated natural burial preserve and is helping people get more comfortable with the never-ending cycle of birth, life, and death. BY AMY BROWNLEE

D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 5

D E PA R T M E N T S D E C E M B E R 2 02 0 ON OUR SITE

12 / CONTRIBUTORS 12 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FRONTLINES

FOOD NEWS

17 / DISPATCH

COVID-19 openings, closings, and pivots.

A holiday without Over the Rhine

18 / SPEAK EASY Everett Fitzhugh, voice of the Cyclones, gets called up

18 / HOLIDAYS 20 / STYLE COUNSEL Brand strategist Ray Ball conﬁdently rocks athleisure

22 / REAL ESTATE

COLUMNS

28 / LIVING IN CIN To all the stars I’ve met before…

90 / TAKE FIVE Sustainable seafood

92 / SNACK TIME Eishaus, Covington

A rainbow bright Victorian in Spring Grove Village

BY J AY G I L B E R T

95 / DINING GUIDE

34 / PERSON OF INTEREST

Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list

24 / INTERSECTION

Roger Grein’s gift of Magniﬁed Giving

Holiday shopping along Vine Street

26 / DR. KNOW Your QC questions answered

BY LISA MURTHA

112 / CINCY OBSCURA Richardson Stones, Clifton BY MADELON BASIL

DINE

86 / DINING OUT

ON THE COVER

photograph by AARON M. CONWAY mural by SOUL PALETTE

CITY NEWS

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.

HOME + LIFE

Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.

@CincinnatiMag

Ivory House, Westwood

Cincinnati Magazine

88 / FINE DIVING

@Cincinnatimagazine

Sugar n’ Spice OTR, Over-the-Rhine

SPORTS

88 / TABLESIDE WITH…

On and off the ﬁeld as the Bengals wrap up the season.

Dora Cheng of Yee Mama Wontons

CINCINNATIMAGAZINE.COM PODCAST

LISTEN TO LEARN MORE On this month’s episode, we dive behind the scenes with the Best of the City, plus other stories we’re excited to share. Subscribe and listen on iTunes, Spotify, and Stitcher. It’s free!

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acts of kindness and generosity are the heartbeat of our community. These humble and courageous people work tirelessly to ensure those in need of extra care have everything they need to get through these tough times. From June - September, a committee of representatives from several prominent Cincinnati organizations selected a total of 13 winners from nominations submitted by local members of the community. Here’s a look at all of our Deserving Neighbor Award Winners. Congratulations!

SPONSORED BY

D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 6 7

Deserving Neighbor Award 2020 Celebrate all the winners of the 2020 Deserving Neighbor Award, created by P&G, Kroger, and Cincinnati Magazine to celebrate the neighbors extending a helping hand during this pandemic.

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8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Up For a Challenge? Save the date and take part in the Mightycause Cincinnati Gives Challenge presented by P&G and hosted by Cincinnati Magazine. The Challenge goes live on the eve of Giving Tuesday, November 30. All nonproﬁts keep the money they raise during the campaign, which runs through December 15. Visit cincinnatigives.org and support your favorite cause!

ALL YOUR YOUR ALL FAVORITE FRESH FAVORITE ALL SEASON LONG FRESH ALL SEASON

D E C E M B E R 2 02 0

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF John Fox DESIGN DIRECTOR Brittany Dexter

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS

Amanda Boyd Walters DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGING EDITOR Katie Coburn SENIOR EDITOR Kaileigh Peyton ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lauren Fisher SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Aiesha D. Little CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jim DeBrosse,

Kathleen Doane, Jene Galvin, Jay Gilbert, Alyssa Konermann, Polk Laffoon IV, Lisa Murtha, Kevin Schultz, John Stowell, Linda Vaccariello, Kathy Y. Wilson, Jenny Wohlfarth, J. Kevin Wolfe EDITORIAL INTERNS Madison DiBattista,

Tyler Kitts, Sami Reed, David Rees, Aaron Sary DIGITAL INTERNS Madelon Basil,

PUBLISHER Ivy Bayer

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Maggie Wint Goecke ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVES

Hilary Linnenberg, Julie Poyer SENIOR OUTSIDE ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Laura Bowling SENIOR MANAGER, SPONSORSHIP SALES

Chris Ohmer SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

Cecilia Rose

BUSINESS

OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Missy Beiting BUSINESS COORDINATOR Erica Birkle

Haley Parnell, Avery Samuels

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Emi Villavicencio ART DIRECTORS Zachary Ghaderi, Jen Kawanari ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Youngquist

CIRCULATION

DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT

Michelle VanArman CIRCULATION MANAGER Riley Meyers

JUNIOR DESIGNERS Carlie Burton, Paisley Stone PHOTO INTERN Kelsey Logsdon CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Lance Adkins,

Wes Battoclette, Aaron M. Conway, Chris Danger, Devyn Glista, Chris von Holle, Jeremy Kramer, Ryan Kurtz, Lars Leetaru, Dustin Sparks, Julia Yellow, Dan Zettwoch PRODUCTION DIRECTOR & IT SYSTEMS ADMINISTRATOR

Vu Luong

EDITORIAL/ADVERTISING OFFICES P.O. Box 14487 Cincinnati, OH 45250 (513) 421-4300

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1-866-660-6247 E-MAIL cmletters@cincinnatimagazine.com WEB cincinnatimagazine.com

PUBLISHED BY CINCINNATI MEDIA, LLC CEO Stefan Wanczyk PRESIDENT John Balardo

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Pat Greulich, resident since 2016

L E T T E R F R O M T H E E D I TO R D E C E M B E R 2 02 0

CONTRIBUTORS

STEVEN ROSEN

S O M E O F YO U M I G H T B E T H I N K I N G T H AT T H E B E ST T H I N G A B O U T 2 02 0 I S I T ’S almost over. I can’t argue. It’s been a daunting, draining year of upheaval thanks to an invisible virus we still don’t know much about or have under control, and it divided us as much as brought us together. The only comparable year in my life is 1968. I was a kid and remember watching news reports from burning cities on our black-and-white TV and seeing the nuns console a schoolmate whose brother had been killed in Vietnam. It was the year marginalized Americans—youth, communities of color, the poor—challenged the government’s lies about Vietnam and demanded a seat at the political table. Two charismatic leaders giving their movement legitimacy and hope, Martin Luther King Jr. and Robert Kennedy, were assassinated. President Johnson, who had championed civil rights but expanded the war, decided not to run for reelection, and repulsive Richard Nixon won the White House. There were earlier years when Americans must have felt as lost as we do now: the Great Depression of the late 1930s, the inﬂuenza pandemic in 1918–1919, the Civil War. Those times are studied in high school history classes, as is 1968, and sometimes it’s easy to forget that the people living, dying, ﬁghting, and struggling in those times were just regular Americans doing the best they could under the circumstances. One day high school kids will have a chapter in their U.S. history books devoted to the COVID-19 pandemic of 2020–2021 (and hopefully not ’22 or ’23). Maybe their virtual reality classroom will include this month’s Cincinnati Magazine, and they’ll learn a little about what day-to-day life was really like. As you’ll see in “Best of the City” (page 40), it wasn’t all bad. People stepped up to help each other during the pandemic, got creative to keep schools and businesses going, and found ways to distract themselves from boredom and isolation. What’s still to be written is how we carry that strength and resiliency forward into the new year.

J O H N F OX

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

1 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

ILLUSTR ATIO N BY L A R S LEE TA RU

In “Sing a Song of Cincinnati” (page 54), Steven Rosen chronicles songs from across the globe that mention the Queen City in their titles ranging from the Beach Boys’ “Susie Cincinnati” to Rose & The Arrangement’s novelty “The Cockroach That Ate Cincinnati.” “There’s a lot of history of the city that’s wrapped up in the songs,” he says. “But also just a lot of history of music, too.”

BILL THOMPSON As the holiday season closes in, the city’s traditions look a little different. Like so many, music writer Bill Thompson was looking forward to seeing hometown band Over the Rhine’s annual holiday show, a Cincinnati staple since 1994. “But then,” he says, “the pandemic stopped live music.” The show might not go on this year, but in “Barn Raising” (page 17), Thompson checks in with the band as they plan for the future.

BRANDON HAWKINS A visual artist and instructor for more than 20 years, Brandon Hawkins has mentored young artists and organized murals across Cincinnati, including the historic Black Lives Matter Mural downtown. When designing this year’s “Best of the City” cover, Hawkins drew upon warm memories and the simplicity of the late 1970s. “[I was] thinking about just how peaceful my childhood seemed to have been in comparison to what I see going on right now,” he says.

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HOCKEY VOICE MOVES UP P. 18

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BARN RAISING Forced to give up their annual holiday concerts, Over the Rhine hunker down and focus on the future. B I L L T H O M P S O N

I L L U S T R AT I O N BY J OA N A LT U R O

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INCE 1994, THOUSANDS OF MUSIC FANS HAVE SHARED THE

Christmas spirit with Over the Rhine, the band formed by Karin Bergquist and Linford Detweiler in its namesake neighborhood in 1989. Their holiday show started at the Emery Theatre (before it closed), moved to the Taft Theatre for 18 consecutive years, and returned to OTR at Memorial Hall (after it reopened), where they played three sold-out shows each December from 2017 through 2019. Unfortunately, the streak will stop in 2020, the year that can’t end soon enough. “The holiday shows have been a big part of the rhythm of our year, so it’s going to be different,” says Detweiler. “We’re hoping to do some kind of broadcast online, but we don’t have the details worked out. I personally haven’t let go of the hope that we could do some tiny gathering at the barn, but that might be a little bit of a dream.” The “barn” is the recording studio and performance space on the Clinton County farm where the couple lives. Bergquist and Detweiler, who have played just one show since February, a virtual performance with the Cincinnati Pops on July CONTINUED ON P. 18 D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 1 7

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RAISING HIS VOICE X The Cincinnati Cyclones have sent plenty of players to the National Hockey League, but now Everett Fitzhugh, their play-by-play man and PR director for the past ﬁve seasons, is moving up too. The expansion Seattle Kraken recently hired Fitzhugh, who will be the NHL’s ﬁrst Black broadcaster when the team begins play a year from now. The Cyclones open their new season January 15. When Seattle hired you, they basically said, “We don’t know what your exact job is going to be, but you’re our guy?” Yeah, that’s pretty much exactly what they said. My title is “team broadcaster.” In the interim, it’s going to be a lot of web and video content and getting out in the community to give a face and a voice to the organization. Cyclones GM Kristin Ropp told The Athletic that she expected to lose you to the NHL eventually. The front office has always been so supportive. They told me early on, “Our goal is to get you to the NHL, if that’s what you want.” What will you miss the most about

Cincinnati? I think the passion people have here for their sports and just for their city in general. I mean, people love Cincinnati. They’re passionate about sports, they’re passionate about east side versus west side, they’re passionate about their chili. What’s the signiﬁcance of NHL players forming the Hockey Diversity Alliance over the summer? You’re seeing a uniﬁed attempt across multiple cultures, multiple people, and multiple backgrounds to draw attention to a problem that frankly hasn’t gone away in our country. There’s still a long way to go with racism, but the steps that were made this summer are great. A lot of times Black people are left to deal with the struggle all by themselves. Whenever you can have someone else standing with you, that’s only going to help us get there faster. Have you begun practicing saying Release the Kraken? I’ve gotten a couple in. It’s such low-hanging fruit, but you can’t not do something with it. —JA S O N CO H E N READ A LONGER CONVERSATION WITH EVERETT AT CINCINNATI MAGAZINE.COM.

PH OTO G R A PHS BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S

I L L U S T R AT I O N S BY (G I F T O F M U S I C & H O L I DAY S) J E N K AWA N A R I / ( S P E A K E A S Y ) Z AC H A RY G H A D E R I

4, have poured their quarantine starting to invent a new genre of music energy into renovating the struccalled ‘reality Christmas,’ which would ture so it can host their Nowhere Else acknowledge that the holidays can be Festival next Memorial Day weekend complicated for many people. I think after they cancelled it this year. we found a little bit of space that feels “Oh boy, we do have hope, although unique to us.” it might be all we have at this point,” Those studio visits led to the DeBergquist says about next year’s event. cember concerts and eventually to three “But I can tell you the one silver lining holiday-themed albums: The Darkest about the pandemic is we’re home, and Night of the Year (1996), Snow Angels that means the barn has our full atten(2006), and Blood Oranges in the Snow tion. It’s a very needy baby, that barn. (2014). Each celebrates the season, but Not only do we have a project manager, also recognizes that happiness isn’t the but it requires our attention. I only emotion we share at this don’t think [the renovation] unique time. would have happened if we had “We know that tears continued to tour.” of joy and tears of sorrow An earlier side trip in the come from the same place THE GIFT in the brain,” says Bergquist. ’90s helped launch the couOF MUSIC “I think that’s a wonderful ple’s “little bit of a CincinRevisit or discover Over the Rhine’s 30 nati tradition,” as Detweiler metaphor for how the holiyears of recorded days register with us. There calls it, saying their holiday music: overtherhine. ﬁxation wasn’t part of a grand are moments of happiness com/music plan by two people who loved and moments of deep sadChristmas. “Both WVXU and [the nowness, especially if there is an empty defunct] WNKU invited us to stop by place at the table. You’re trying to celthe radio stations and play music in Deebrate who you’re with, but you miss the cember,” he says. “We hadn’t thought one that’s gone. It’s complicated and it’s messy, but one thing about music is it about making a Christmas record, nor thought about Christmas music. So we can always ﬁnd that space and be a balm put our little spin on a couple of carand help bridge that place [between happiness and sadness].” ols. Then we became interested in the question of whether there are any great During a December unlike any previChristmas songs that haven’t been writous, Over the Rhine remain a vessel for ten yet, anything that could exert some those seeking pleasure and solace durgravitational pull on a songwriter. Karing the holiday season. Even if they can’t in came up with this idea that we were take the stage.

STYLE COUNSEL

Ray Ball OCCUPATION: Owner of BallR Media STYLE: Comfortable and confident What do you do? I turn dreamers into doers. Everyone has great ideas but not everyone knows how to turn those ideas into goals, [so I use] my creativity to really help brands shine. Describe your style for me. My personal style is comfy and cute. Growing up I was a tomboy; I only wore sneakers and didn’t wear anything pink. I was a three-sport athlete. Athleisure wasn’t a thing back then. It was either soccer shorts or hoop shorts for me. How has your style changed since then? I’m actually wearing hoop shorts right now, but being able to feel confident in what I’m wearing and put pieces together that typically aren’t fancy items [is something I take pride in]. I’ll wear a pair of patent leather Top 3 gold-toe Jordans with a beautiful DKNY skirt and a leather biker jacket, knowing that I’m going to a political event or a meeting. A couple years ago, I would have been nervous that I wouldn’t be taken professionally. But I’ve gotten to a point where I am so confident in myself and in what I bring into the room that whatever I wear also projects that. Has your style grown with your company? I can definitely say that it’s adapted. Early on in my business, I honestly thought that I had to wear dresses and heels everywhere, even though my feet were killing me the entire time. I thought I had to be Michelle Obama, and that just wasn’t my personal style. In the right space, yes I will do that, but as I matured, I also started to look at brands more closely, specifically independent designers, and reduce a lot of my financial support of the fast-fashion industry. I’ve also become more intentional about shopping with minority women– and Black-owned businesses and supporting them without asking for a discount and without doing anything extra but just liking their work. —KATIE COBURN

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COLOR THEORY

VICTORIANS SURE KNEW HOW TO PUT ON A SHOW. FROM AGGRESSIVELY

puffed sleeves to performative mourning to statement doilies, this crew never did anything by halves. That’s probably why a three-story tower, anchored with a recessed front door and topped with a natty Mansard roof, is the literal and figurative center of this Spring Grove Victorian home. Above all, the tower signals to the neighborhood that this home has something to say. And its outgoing personality carries on today with an exterior Technicolor paint scheme in shades of purple, pink, and blue. Built in 1891, 4704 Edgewood Ave. is an imposing home set well above the street (and its neighbors) with tiers of street-facing stone walls. The perky palette makes it more Painted Lady than Bates House, but the interior has all the trimmings that you’d expect from a Gothic manse: Interior doorways feature jewel-toned stained-glass transoms and an elaborate staircase is packed with detailed woodwork. Nearly every room has its own fireplace (there are five in total, all ornamen2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

tal), each surrounded by a panel of brick. The kitchen is a vivid jade green with a painted range hood and cabinets and a colorful tile backsplash, while the molto fancy Italian ILVE stove brings in a moody cobalt blue. A labyrinthine second floor packs in three bedrooms and a full bathroom with a large, walk-in aromatherapy steam shower. That master bathroom shower also features “chromatherapy,” which, it should not surprise you to learn, is made up of colored lights. They’re designed to light up the water and are thought to improve mood and even treat disorders like insomnia. Outside, a large, partially covered back deck overlooks a brick patio and a dense bank of trees beyond. The property has a relatively small footprint, but lies just two-and-a-half miles northeast of Northside, across the sprawling 733-acre Spring Grove Cemetery and Arboretum. The famed cemetery is itself an outdoor museum of elaborate Victorian architecture filled with stone chapels, obelisks, and vaults, and a fitting neighbor to this high-profile home.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY COLDWELL BANKER WEST SHELL

A RAINBOW BRIGHT VICTORIAN STANDS OUT IN SPRING GROVE VILLAGE. — A M Y B R O W N L E E

Check out these listings from Ryan’s real estate partners!

Brand New OTR Condo, 116 West 15th Street Tax abated until 2029, payable 2030. Sleek, open plan condo includes quartz, stainless & hardwood. Massive windows pour in light. Food and brews at arm’s length. Price: $272,000. 1 bedroom

1 bath

1 year free Washington Park garage Contact Brendan Morrissey, Sibcy Cline, (513) 365-8383

Ryan Kiefer, PrimeLending Is buying, reﬁnancing, or renovating a home in your future? Let me help you achieve your home ownership goals through our simple and hasslefree home loan process. I am a 22-year veteran of the mortgage business and the Branch Manager for PrimeLending in Greater Cincinnati and the state of Kentucky. I’ve appeared on Lifetime’s TV show “Designing Spaces” as a home renovation loan expert. Plus, catch me locally as the host of “Cincy’s Hottest Properties” every Saturday at 12:30 p.m. on Local12 WKRC-TV. I also nationally co-host CNBC’s “Financing the American Dream” at 9:30 a.m. each Saturday. As your local go-to resource, I’ll be by your side delivering personalized service, professional guidance, and timely results on the way to your ideal home loan.

4 Bedroom Brick on Cul-de-sac, 7480 Oak Leaf Lane, West Chester Open ﬂoor plan with huge rooms and hardwoods throughout ﬁrst level. Custom baths plus two walk-in closets. Finished lower level is a walkout and features rec room, workshop & half bath. Price: $369,500. 4 bedrooms

AS SEEN ON

2/2 baths

2 garages Contact Stan Parkinson, Huff Realty, (513) 236-0664

2718 Observatory Ave., Floor 1, Cincinnati, OH 45208 (513) 314-2248 | ryankiefer.com

PIT STOP

INTERSECTION

SHOPPING SMALL ON VINE STREET OVER-THE-RHINE’S MAIN THOROUGHFARE PROVIDES THE PERFECT LINEUP FOR A DAY FULL OF HOMEGROWN HOLIDAY SHOPPING. – K E V I N S C H U L T Z

Candle Lab turns the traditional candle shopping experience on its head: Start with your choice of more than 120 fragrances, then pour some wax to create your very own customized candle. Start your Vine Street shopping day here so you can return later for pickup—each candle takes about 30 minutes to create and 90 minutes to cool before it’s ready to take home. 1325 Vine St., (614) 915-0777 x4, thecandlelab.com 1

3. JACK WOOD GALLERY

1. PAPER WINGS

2. CANDLE LAB OTR

Forget settling on a substandard scent.

Looking for a unique gift for your artistically inclined friend or family member? Jack Wood Gallery draws on the Queen City’s prestigious

printmaking history with an incredible collection of vintage prints from the 19th and 20th centuries—from literary and world war posters to some of the most famous marketing advertisements. 1413 Vine St., (513) 909-3298, jackwoodgallery.com 4. OMBRÉ GALLERY

from this independent seller with a focus on African American literature, previously housed in the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center. You’ll also ﬁnd an assortment of African clothing, wood carvings, and jewelry. 1405 Vine St., (513) 641-2700

Jewelry historian and Ball State University professor Jenna Shaifer spent 20 years working in the art and fashion industry before opening this rotating exhibit of contemporary jewelry crafted by artists and metalworkers from around the globe. Think modern and artistic pieces such as burnt wood– inspired brooches and bent-metal ﬂower petal earrings. 1429 Vine St., (513) 813-7278, ombregallery.com

5. SMITH & HANNON BOOKSTORE

R AC E

ST. BL REPU

IC ST.

14TH

ST.

ER ST.

ST.

MERC

VINE

During a year that’s sparked a major national awakening on racial injustice, it’s the perfect time to gift someone on your holiday list a paperback (or hard cover)

13TH S

Carolyn and Mike Deininger opened this stationery store and local art gallery in response to a growing number of customer requests for ﬁne paper goods at their gift boutique Mica 12/v, which is just a few doors down. Visit for artfully crafted holiday cards, a range of elevated pens and pencils, and beautiful framed prints. 1207 Vine St.,

(513) 421-3500, shop paperwings.com

Warm up during a frigid day of holiday shopping with a to-go pour-over coffee, frothy latte, or fresh pastry, but don’t skimp on the wine. Pick up a bottle (or four) from a large curated selection of reds, whites, sparklings, and rosés for holiday gatherings or to celebrate checking off a few items from your shopping list. 1215 Wine Bar & Coffee Lab, 1215 Vine St., (513) 429-5745, 1215vine.com

More than a century before Vine Street’s current boom, this stretch of street was an entertainment mecca packed with beer gardens, breweries, and famous theaters. The Coliseum Theater, between 12th and 13th streets, featured artistic performing groups and sharpshooting shows. Anna Von Behren was tragically and famously killed there by her husband Frank Frayne during a sharpshooting act on Thanksgiving Day 1882. STREET SMARTS

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY LANCE ADKINS / ICON BY CARLIE BURTON

Virtual Visits for a Healthy You Health has taken on a new importance these days. But at Mercy Health, yours has always been our top priority. And we’re as committed as we’ve always been to providing you with high-quality, personalized care—whether safely in our clean facilities or virtually from the comfort of your own home. Visit mercy.com/primarycare to connect with a primary care provider today.

PRIMARY CARE FOR THE UNIVERSE OF YOU

Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, weekday afternoon deejay on 92.5 FM The Fox. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

DR. KNOW

and one texture of Charmin. The Kroger on Hyde Park Square wasn’t much larger than a modern UDF, and that was typical. But then “product extensions” began to multiply, and supermarkets started to resemble airports. Kroger opened a much bigger store at Hyde Park Plaza in 1974, abruptly closing the one on the square with a week’s notice. The Rich Housewives of Hyde Park were not amused. A shuttle bus was hastily arranged to run between locations, and a Cincinnati convenience store chain (King Kwik) opened a modest market at the vacant address. Neither of these workarounds lasted very long. The answer to Dad’s riddle? Coldwell Banker West Shell’s offices are where the Hyde Park Square Kroger used to be. Their vending machines probably feature more choices than the entire old store did.

Q+ A

What’s the status of Cincinnati’s bid to be one of America’s host cities for the 2026 World Cup? It’s not like I’m expecting much, but I’ve heard nothing since the summer. We’ve shown that we’re a serious soccer town. Is FIFA taking us seriously? Will my dream come true? —KICK ME AWAKE

My dad walked my sister and me around Hyde Park Square and made us try to guess where there had once been a Kroger. We thought he was joking, because no place seems big enough. Was it the group of stores where the coffee shop is now? Maybe that was a single storefront? Dad wouldn’t tell us. Tell us!

—WE’RE SQUARE

DEAR SQUARE:

Your modern perceptions are the problem. Grocery stores used to be tiny little things that sold—this may come as a shock—only groceries. Also, the world had only one type of Pepsi, one ﬂavor of Crest,

2 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

DEAR KICK:

Let’s get readddddy to (perhaps, possibly, sort of) rummmmble. FIFA, the international soccer body, will choose 10 American cities out of 17 ﬁnalists to host various World Cup matches in 2026. Cincinnati remains a contender. We made our official presentation in July, and the next step is for FIFA officials to visit each city in order to receive a more direct and personal bribe impression. That’s been delayed by our now-familiar friend, COVID-19. Our brand new soccer stadium and its large and rabid fan base will, of course, be perfect for several World Cup games. The more prominent games will be perfect for Paul Brown Stadium. We’ve got the perfect large and, um, spacious airport, plus an imperfect large highway bridge across ILLUSTR ATIO N S BY L A R S LEE TA RU

the Ohio River that might finally get upgraded if we get the nod. FIFA seems to be punting (sorry, wrong sport) about what comes next. Their website language is pleasantly vague. They’re still working on rehabilitating their deeply scandalous reputation, which has improved to the level of an overcoat on Times Square ﬁlled with Rolexes. We’ll keep you posted.

SEE YOUR FEET THE WAY WE DO

A few Decembers ago you described some old Cincinnati newspaper ads that said Seasons Greetings instead of Merry Christmas, just to show that the “War on Christmas” has always existed for anyone who needs it. Please do that again. I could use a little Happy Holidays right this very minute. —SEASON’S GRATINGS DEAR GRATINGS:

You refer to the Doctor’s column of December 2017 describing Cincinnati Enquirer ads back to the 1880s that wished you just about everything except a “Merry Christmas,” even on Christmas day. We shall not repeat those blasphemies. Instead, here’s something better. The link at the end of this paragraph will let you see some actual Enquirer ads, gathered from the classified section of December 25, 1961. We’ve highlighted the more interesting names in this collage of greetings from 117 Cincinnati businesses. Depending on your age, you will or won’t recognize the many defunct stores and companies, but you will definitely notice how few of them say Merry Christmas. And that includes the churches. (tinyurl.com/y3nflrsj) At the end of this paragraph is another link. Here you’ll see a pastiche of those much older ads, showing that Cincinnati somehow anticipated the War on Christmas by several lifetimes instead of our usual habit of being 10 or 20 years late. Here’s to a better 2021, with our update of Tiny Tim’s famous declaration: “Non-specific deity or entity bless us, everyone!” (tinyurl.com/ y5nxr827)

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VISIT US TODAY BLUE ASH OAKLEY WEST CHESTER FIND OUT MORE AT

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D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 2 7

LIVING IN CIN

Talking Heads A BRUSH WITH FAME OFTEN ISN’T MUCH TO WRITE HOME ABOUT. I WAS ON MY WAY TO THE BATHROOM WHEN I ACCIDENTALLY WOKE UP JOHN CLEESE. I HAD no idea he was napping on a couch in the lounge below the Taft Theatre stage, and my clops down the stairs made him sit up. I was horriﬁed. Upstairs, the screening of Monty Python and the Holy Grail had about 15 minutes to go, after which John (I can call him that now) would come on and answer written questions from the audience. The emcee (me) had sorted the cards and decided to squeeze in a quick bathroom run before meeting the guest of honor backstage. Our bleary-versus-bladder introduction wasn’t the one I’d hoped for. That was nothing compared to the actual physical assault I committed against Chris Cornell, now-deceased frontman for Soundgarden. He was recording an interview in a WEBN radio studio I thought was unoccupied, and since I was carrying some gear I opened 2 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

the heavy soundproof door by kicking it. Hard. Cornell was sitting directly behind the door and got knocked to the ﬂoor. Hey, pleased to meet you, man, loved your album. I’d talked with Alice Cooper in that same studio—without injuring him—when he stopped by one afternoon (musicians never stop by in the morning). It’s ironic that one of his hit songs is “No More Mr. Nice Guy,” because he was probably the warmest and most open rock star I’ve interviewed. He even stayed friendly when I tried to force a confession from him about his brief movie appearance in Wayne’s World. Alice Cooper doesn’t share a single frame with Mike Myers and Dana Carvey in their brief scene “together,” but he wouldn’t explicitly admit to me that he’d been edited in. I once interviewed Eddie Money on my radio show when he was in town to PH OTO ILLU S TR ATI O N BY J E N K AWA N A RI

PHOTOGRAPHS BY (CELEBRITIES) SHUTTERSTOCK.COM/ DJOMAS/ STOCK.ADOBE.COM

BY JAY GILBERT

LIVING IN CIN perform at Taste of Blue Ash. It’s rude to speak ill of the dead, but I cut the interview short because he was a dick. I wouldn’t bring this up if several other people in the biz hadn’t shared similar experiences with me about him. I’ve met other celebrities in music, movies, TV, sports, and politics, and now it’s time I told some stories. There are no bombshells here for TMZ, just a collection of amusements. Should I ever feel that my life’s big dreams didn’t come true, this is my reminder that many small ones did. It’s always a thrill to meet someone famous. Herewith, a sampling. ROGER WATERS WAS IN THE MIDST OF blowing up Pink Floyd, suing his former bandmates for continuing to use that famous name, and was more interested in discussing his current solo projects. But he understood the game and was willing to talk with me on-air about Floyd times for his fans. I asked him this: Record companies are always hiring acts that copy whatever musical trend is hot, and you’d think they would have signed other artists to copy a monster act like Pink Floyd. But nobody else came along. Why not? Waters paused, and then said dryly, “Well, there does happen to be a rather mediocre copycat band on tour right now, calling themselves Pink Floyd.” I spent the better part of a Thursday with Barry Williams, the guy who played Greg Brady on The Brady Bunch. He’d come to Cincinnati to record a song parody I’d written for him, “The Real Greg Brady,” based on Eminem’s “The Real Slim Shady.” Williams liked how my lyrics folded in fun references to classic moments from his old TV show, making me feel especially proud because I had never once watched The Brady Bunch. I’d spent the previous 24 hours cramming frantically. Thanks, internet. On a break we went to the UDF across the street, where I got to witness what happens when a cashier recognizes a former child star. Williams was gracious. I learned how to converse with celebrities during my ﬁrst year at WEBN, in a rather cheesy way. About every six weeks, a sort-of-famous actor promoting his or her new movie would parachute into Cincinnati for a one-day marathon at local radio and TV stations. When they arrived at WEBN,

the interview was always assigned to me. I’d say hello, orient our microphones, press record on the tape machine—yes, that’s how long ago this was—and we’d chat about the new movie. Then I’d stop the tape, we’d exchange goodbyes, and I’d casually throw the reel into the trash. We never aired these interviews. The true goal was to do a favor for the movie’s local promoter so he’d look good for the Hollywood home office. Then he’d buy ads on WEBN and, most importantly, keep giving us free tickets. I met some very engaging B-level actors this way—less psychotic than the A-level ones, who never did these promo tours—and I started developing good interview skills. By the time I got around to rudely awakening John Cleese at the Taft, I was a pro. One of the many side gigs I had while also working at WEBN was for John Madden’s Sports Calendar, a syndicated todayin-sports-history radio show. I was hired to help produce episodes for speciﬁc dates, like, say, January 10. That was the day, in 1982, of the coldest game in pro football history, the legendary “Freezer Bowl,” between the Bengals and the (then) San Diego Chargers. My obvious move for this project was to talk to a guy who’d actually played in the game, Cris Collinsworth. He was right down the hall, still doing his local sports talk show on WLW, and readily agreed to make time in a nearby studio. (Collinsworth is as nice a guy as he seems on TV; not everyone is.) Of course he had great memories of winning that playoff game, but also etched in his mind was this: Inside the locker room prepping for a super-cold ordeal, someone delivered dozens of those egg-shaped L’eggs pantyhose for the players to wear under their uniforms. Collinsworth told me, “You have not lived until you’ve watched Anthony Muñoz struggle to pull on a pair of women’s pantyhose.” IN CINCINNATI IT’S NOT UNUSUAL TO have a story about Jerry Springer. Here’s mine. During the peak of his notorious television career, I helped him with his radio career. Did you even know Springer had one? As infamous as the TV show was, that’s how unfamous the radio show was. For two years, he scheduled his TV tapings so he could simultaneously do a live

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two-hour radio show on Air America, the short-lived liberal network. It allowed him to resurrect the politically-focused commentator he’d once been, as if the TV Jerry Springer didn’t exist. I supplied the show with comedy song parodies and fake commercials and occasionally subbed for Springer when he was busy. He gave me lots of creative freedom, and it was great working for him. With my lifelong writing partner Don Goldberg, we cranked out some of the best and funniest work of our careers but, dammit, almost nobody heard it. Ratings for the network were terrible, and it folded. Here’s your chance to hear at least one of the comedy bits Don and I made: tinyurl.com/yyots8kq. For several years, WEBN sent me to New York or Los Angeles just ahead of the Grammy Awards to interview an embarrassment of celebrities. Really, it was embarrassing. Imagine a space like the Duke Energy Convention Center crammed with several dozen card tables. Imagine a radio personality at each table transmitting his or her local show back home. Now imagine an endless stream of performers being hysterically shuttled around to each table for exactly five minutes (handlers had stopwatches and no mercy). Imagine how smoothly that went. My memory of these speed dates is a blur. Most people plunked in front of me weren’t even musicians, and to describe them as B-level would be extremely generous. Just like that first year at WEBN, I recorded and discarded most of them: unknown standup comedians, barely known bands, characters from forgotten sitcoms, shopping channel hosts, and adult film star Ron Jeremy. OK, I did air the one with him. Occasionally actual celebrities appeared— David Bowie, Gene Simmons, John Entwistle, Brian Wilson, Drew Carey, Donny Osmond, Kevin James—and they were worth everything. By the way, my seats at the Grammys were always horrible, so far from the stage that one year my aisle seat was directly across from Eddie Money. I wish now I’d been one of those annoying people who coerces every famous person I encounter into posing for a picture, because I’ve forgotten so many. Chances are they’d have trouble remembering me, too, so I guess we’re even.

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WA AW WAY WA AW WAY WA AW WAY WA AW WAY WA AW WAY WA WAY MOVE MOVE MOVE MOVE M E MOVE MO MOVE MOVE MO OVE MOVE MOVE MOVE MOVE VE MOVE MOVE MOVE MOVE MO 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 T 6 FEET 6 F 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 F FEET 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 FEET ET 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 FEET 6 F AW AWAY AW AWAY AW AWAY AW AWAY A Y AWAY AW A AW AW AWAY AW AWAY WA AWAY WAY AW AW AWAY AW AWAY AW AWAY AY AWAY AW AW AWAY AW AWAY AW AWAY OVE MO O OVE MO OVE MO OVE MO OV OVE MO O OVE MO OVE MO E MO OVE MO OVE MO OVE MO OVE MO OVE MO OVE MO OVE MO OVE EET 6 FE E EET 6 FE EET 6 FE EET 6 FE E FE EET 6 FE EET 6 FE EET 6 F T 6 FE EET 6 FE EET 6 FE EET 6 FE EET 6 FE 6 FE EET ET 6 FE EET 6 FE EET

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Growth Plan ROGER GREIN GIVES BIG.

IT’S NOT AN EXAGGERATION TO SAY ROGER Grein is always doing something for someone else. Even as he shuffles into Magnified Giving’s Evendale offices on a sunny summer morning—Grein has been living with cerebral palsy for all of his 78 years—he’s carrying a large cardboard box and a stack of mail. As he talks about the nonprofit headquartered here, his life’s major work, he makes his way through the halls, pointing out a series of thoughtful drawings from former campers here, dropping off the package and letters there. Sometimes he stops, pointing out photos of kids presenting checks to local nonprofits or packing sack lunches in tie-dye T-shirts. Once, he’s overcome with emotion after hearing from two staffers that, even despite the pandemic, Magnified Giving is still going strong, with 100 schools signed up for the organization’s programs this year, basically on par with last year. Just days before, Grein was the guest of honor at a 300-plus-person virtual event premiering a documentary film about his life, Roger Grein: An Empowering Philanthropist, made by Magnified Giving board member and KPG Creative President / Executive Producer Bob Kelly. Turns out, Grein—a miraculous man who began life as a highly focused and determined boy in working class Lockland—grew up to become a Reading-based tax accountant and secret multimillionaire who quietly gave away much of his fortune as he earned it. The kind of guy who once bought every shoe from a store that was going out of business

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PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS VON HOLLE

and gave them all away to people in need. But nobody—not even Grein—could have known the turns his story would take or the adversity he would face: At the pinnacle of his career, Grein’s entire fortune disintegrated virtually overnight. For anyone else, that would have been catastrophic. For Grein, a man whose Catholic “faith is my rock,” it became the spark to transform a deeply personal project into a 501(c)(3) that has brought together thousands of children, schoolteachers, donors, nonproﬁts, and people in need throughout the Midwest.

When he tried out for every sports team possible and never made it onto one, he took a job as team manager instead and soon held the position for every sports team at Lockland High School (experience that would serve him well later; as an adult, he’d wind up coaching women’s softball for more than three decades, winning world championships and being named a hall-of-fame coach). After high school, Grein earned a ﬁnance degree in three years from UC, followed by an MBA and CPA. His ﬁrst job was doing taxes at a local bank. But he

GREIN’S FORTUNE DISINTEGRATED VIRTUALLY OVERNIGHT. FOR THE MAN WHOSE CATHOLIC “FAITH IS MY ROCK,” IT BECAME THE SPARK TO TRANSFORM A PERSONAL PROJECT. ROGER GREIN’S PERSONAL STORY IS nothing short of awe-inspiring. Before birth, his mother considered aborting him; instead, he ended up in an orphanage, adopted at six months by Frank and Thelma Grein. While Frank was ﬁghting in World War II, Thelma discovered Roger—their only child—wasn’t developing like other kids his age. When he was diagnosed with cerebral palsy, doctors told Thelma he’d never walk or talk. Friends and neighbors told her to “give him back.” But Thelma ignored them all and began teaching her son to do both. “Heel, toe; heel, toe,” became something of a mantra at the Grein house. One step at a time. While mastering that, a grade-school Grein began collecting glass bottles, turning them in for cash. He earned enough money to buy a wagon, which he loaded up with newspapers to recycle, another money-maker. By age 10, the boy who was never supposed to walk or talk saved up enough to buy a lawn mower. He cut lawns all through high school and began investing in local stocks, making occasional daytime trading calls from the principal’s office. When a doctor told his mother Grein should never drive because of the cerebral palsy, she thanked him for the advice and promptly handed Grein the car keys.

was eventually fired,“because his writing wasn’t that good,” says Grein in the film. “He was visibly upset,” family friends said, but he fell back on lawn-mowing, and did taxes for his yard-work clients at night; Thelma typed up the returns in the basement of his family home. Soon, he’d built up a booming tax accounting business (losing that first job, he’d later say, “was a blessing”) and eventually served as tax commissioner for multiple municipalities. Unmarried and living in the same modest home almost his entire adult life, Grein quietly amassed a significant fortune. Almost as quietly, he began giving hundreds of thousands of dollars of it away each year to nonprofits globally. “It was a prayerful thing,” he says. In 2001, Grein, who’d endowed a 1999 Northern Kentucky University scholarship for physically challenged students, learned from the University’s then-president, James Votruba, about an NKU class that let students invest money from the Mayerson Foundation in local nonprofits. Grein loved the idea of teaching philanthropy and floated it past former Xavier University president Father Jim Hough during a spiritual retreat. Hough connected him to Xavier’s then- (and current) president Father D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 3 5

PERSON OF INTEREST Michael Graham, who “was willing to take a chance,” says Grein. The pair initiated a pilot program at Xavier, called the Philanthropy Project; Grein donated $4,000 for students to give away. Together, the teacher and students worked to identify meaningful causes, researched and vetted nonproﬁts, and chose one to receive the money (the predecessor to Magniﬁed Giving’s current six-step process). At the program’s closing ceremony, when students presented the money to the winning philanthropy, Grein saw how strongly the project had impacted them both. “Hey!” he recalls thinking. “This works!” Soon, he connected with a communityservice-driven coalition of colleges called Ohio Campus Compact (part of a national program). They adopted the Philanthropy Project, too, and, using hundreds of thousands of Grein’s dollars, began offering it at colleges throughout Ohio, Kentucky, and Michigan. But Grein didn’t stop there.

“I thought this could work at a high school level,” he says. In 2008, assisted by Mt. Notre Dame Community Service Director Todd Forman, he began recruiting area high schools to participate, too. The name for that project, Magnified Giving, came to him through prayer. ROGER GREIN’S STORY WOULD HAVE been stellar if it had held there—a man who consistently defied the odds amassing a multimillion-dollar fortune and empowering young adults to help him give it away to nonprofits. But something devastating happened that put it all in jeopardy. On September 29, 2008, the stock market crashed, and Grein lost all but $65,000 of his entire $7 million fortune. Grein wasn’t worried for himself—he’d overcome adversity before and would continue supporting himself as an accountant. His overwhelming concern was for all the nonprofits, as well as the college and newly-forming high school philanthropy

programs. Without his backing money, he knew, they would end. A distressed and grieving Grein immediately went on retreat at Milford’s Jesuit Spiritual Center. While there, he says he thought a lot about “what’s important. Is it your faith? You have your health and friendships.” In the end, he realized: “You didn’t lose nothing.” Grein spent the next weeks apologizing in person to the nonprofits and schools he’d promised money. At Ohio’s Mercy College, the president suggested Grein “reach out for help” by asking other people to fund Magnified Giving and the college projects, too. Instantly, he says, “that inspired me to make Magnified Giving a 501(c)(3).” Right around the same time, he got a call from Ohio Campus Compact. The organization had just landed a $2.7 million grant from the National Corporation for Service Learning and would be able to carry on the college programs without Grein’s money. “I cried like a baby,” says Grein.“That was a miracle.”

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It also enabled him to turn his full attention to Magnified Giving. In December, he sent out 3,000 letters to “all my tax clients, all my softball [contacts], all my Christmas card list, any doctor I went to— anybody that ever gave me a business card,” asking for money to fund the new 501(c)(3). “I didn’t tell anybody anything about losing [my] money,” says Grein. “I didn’t want people to feel sorry for me. I just told them what a good program this is.” Sure enough, the donations started coming in, and the name Magnified Giving suddenly seemed prescient. That first year, Grein had hoped to give away $1,000 apiece to eight different schools, but he beat his goal and raised $13,000. Every year thereafter, the number of participating schools steadily grew and the amount of money Grein raised always increased by “enough to cover the growth,” he says. Fast forward to 2020. Magnified Giving has grown beyond belief, pulling in roughly $500,000 each year from about 500 do-

nors, including corporations, foundations, and individuals. The organization now has a full-time staff of six and a fully endowed building. In the 2019–2020 school year alone, it gave 180 grants totaling $170,985 to 135 nonproﬁts, from CancerFree KIDS to La Soupe to Pets for Patients. Despite the pandemic and remote learning, more than 6,000 students at 97 schools, from Taft to Summit Country Day to Butler Tech, completed the program (60 percent of participating schools were public and 40 percent were private; junior highs are also now in the mix). Add in weekly summer camps and a new, online version of the program called “Giving Circles,” and even though the pandemic has slowed donations, this year they gave away “the most money in the history of Magniﬁed Giving,” says Grein. Pre-COVID, Grein estimates he gave roughly 80 in-person talks each year to schoolkids about his personal story and the history of Magnified Giving (a process now done via Zoom). He used to tell

them his biggest regret was losing his fortune in 2008 and “the ability to help” all those nonprofits; now, he sees the bigger picture. He was able to give even more—to the hundreds of other people, businesses, and foundations who now have the opportunity to help fund Magnified Giving—by losing it all. The organization is his legacy, says Grein. But he also hopes, years from now, when Magnified Giving is still thriving but he is long gone, schoolkids will watch the documentary about his life and ask: “What is Roger about?” And the answer, he hopes, will be that he’s about loving and helping other people, engaging other people. Being kind, being generous. “And what is Magnified Giving?” he hopes they’ll ask after that. And the answer, he knows, is this: “Well, that’s the same thing. It’s planting the heart and seed in these younger generations so that hopefully some of the focus will be taken off ‘I’ and, instead, it will be ‘we.’ ”

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ive was to help te kids and pets in our ouseol.

Clinical psychologist Susan Steinberg provides practical advice for helping guide children through these uncertain times, focusing ﬁrst on acknowledging what they’re experiencing and following up with positivity and problemsolving techniques. More than anything, she says, parents need to be good role models. drsusanjsteinberg.com

DOG TRAINING

A M U S E M E N T PA R K R E O P E N I N G

Harper

Kings Island

Trying to provide your puppy with structure when you’re just as crazed and unfocused? The digital training app Harper offers more than 30 step-by-step training guides and 100-plus games that help you and your new friend bond at your own pace. harper.dog

Finding a middle ground this summer between Florida’s crowded theme parks and California’s complete shutdown, KI ﬁnally introduced its new Orion rollercoaster in early July. They welcomed back families with temperature checks at the gate, timed tickets for popular rides to control lines, and aggressive cleanliness, for a small slice of summer normalcy. visitkingsisland.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY LANCE ADKINS

PET PORTRAITS

titching abbatica

E T S Y B R E A K O U T S TA R

Circle Circle Jewelry

Before Jill Goulait started making jewelry full time, she worked as a funeral director in Latonia. Jewelry had been a passion of hers since she was a little girl, but it wasn’t until she took a weekend soldering class that her “world opened up” and she started making pieces for friends and family. In 2009, she launched an Etsy shop named Grey Goose Gifts to sell her delicate designs. Her new business quickly took off, and she left the funeral industry just one year later. Nearly 19,000 Etsy sales later and Goulait’s company now goes by the name Circle Circle Jewelry (complete with a standalone website) and specializes in reasonably priced, dainty necklaces, earrings, and bracelets crafted from gold and sterling silver. circlecirclejewelry.com

For the pet owner who has it all and wants more, Michelle Staub offers a unique gift: a hand-embroidered, lifelike animal friend portrait suitable for framing. Her work is incredibly detailed and occasionally three-dimensional, with each piece typically taking 45 hours to complete and costing between $950 and $1,900 (depending on size and complexity). More basic outlined portraits start at $85, and all work is done on commission through an online waiting list. Her Stitching Sabbatical Instagram feed has more than 138,000 followers admiring her “thread paintings.” stitchingsabbati cal.com

C R A F T C H O C O L AT E

Maverick Chocolate Co.

Engineer Paul Picton was inspired by his globetrotting work trips, where along the way he’d pick up chocolate for his wife, Marlene. When his job ended in 2013, so did the couple’s supply of international ﬁne chocolate. They began experimenting, making their own bars, and Maverick was born at Findlay Market the next year. Six years into the business, Cincinnati’s only bean-to-bar chocolate producer—which ethically sources its cocoa from co-ops all over the world—has two brick-and-mortar factory stores (Findlay Market and Rookwood Commons) and sells its bars in more than 40 stores nationwide. We’re particularly fond of the 70 percent Belize dark chocolate, with its smooth texture, bright acidity, and notes of cherry and roasted nuts. maverickchocolate.com

PET DEFENDER

Animal Abuse Tracking Cincinnati City Council passed a motion in October to have city administrators work with Hamilton County officials to build a searchable database of people convicted of animal abuse. Those names will be available to animal shelters and adoption/foster organizations so they can vet potential pet owners and avoid repeat problems.

DIY CRAFT LADY

Jen Dalton

Local 12 morning traffic anchor Jen Dalton moonlights as Cincinnati’s unofficial kid craft curator, highlighting easy DIY craft and science projects to keep kids’ hands and minds busy. Find videos and instructions on her Instagram feed. instagram.com/ jendaltontv

P H OTO G R A P H S ( D O G P O R T R A I T ) C O U R T E SY M I C H E L L E S TA U B / ( B OT TO M ) B Y A A R O N M . C O N WAY / I C O N S B Y B R I T TA N Y D E X T E R

RUNNING GROUP FOR BEER LOVERS

Fifty West’s Running Clubs THE CANCELLATION OF THIS YEAR’S FLYING PIG marathon may have quashed some ribbon-breaking dreams, or at least put them on hold. But for those who are still looking to stay in tip-top Pig shape, Fifty West’s 16-week training program pairs runners with a set of coaches to make full and halfmarathon dreams a reality. Training runs take place twice a week on the Little Miami Scenic Trail and down the picturesque streets of Mariemont, and conclude with a beer on the house—you know, in case you need a little extra motivation. The $115 program fee also includes Fifty West and JackRabbit discounts, a pre-race-day carb party, and two off-site runs that feature, you guessed it, beer at the finish line. Not quite ready to commit to marathon training status? The brewery also offers a more relaxed, recreational option with its free Thursday night running club, led by Fifty West staff. Thursday’s runs start at the Pro Works location on Wooster Pike and clock in at a much more manageable three to five miles. 7605 Wooster Pike, Columbia Twp., (513) 834-8789, fiftywestbrew.com

CHEDDAR CURDS

rba tea In 2018, Scott and Andrea Robbins left the corporate world to make “cheddar for the better”—that is, the farmstead way, in small batches, supporting local farmers and sharing their leftover whey to feed their suppliers’ livestock. It’s a long process making their truckles (wheels) of cheddar, which are aged 12–18 months before fully mature. But the fresh stuff? Separated from the whey, those teeth-squeaking curds are good enough to eat right away, straight out of the bag or on top of poutine. Find them in Urban Stead’s Evanston cheese shop, on restaurant menus, and at more than a dozen local specialty food retailers. • 3036 Woodburn Ave., Evanston, (513) 828-0830, urbansteadcheese.com

PA R K I N G S PA C E S

oingto ayout aring Do you remember March? Back in those very early pandemic days, when state leaders in Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana ordered bars and restaurants to close, it was a blow to individual establishments and the industry as a whole. But the closings also sparked creative efforts to offer help and support. Later that week, Covington announced that it would change some metered parking spaces in front of local restaurants to carryout-only spots that would provide 15 free minutes for folks running in to pick up to-go orders. A small change with a big impact. covingtonky.gov

N E W C AT C A F É

urrect ay afé Northern Kentucky native Chuck Patton has opened his second Purrfect Day Café in the bustling Pike/Madison area of Covington. Like the original in Louisville, the space is equal parts cozy café and cat adoption center. The front café has cat-themed tea, coffee drinks, and pastries as well as wine, local brews, bourbon, and specialty cocktails, while you can reserve time online ($15 for 50 minutes, eight masked visitors at a time) to play with a dozen or more cats in the back room, managed by Kenton County Animal Services. Set up an adoption or just hang out with the kitties. Since opening in 2018, Patton’s Louisville café has arranged more than 3,500 adoptions. purrfectdaycafecov ington.com

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S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y WA R R I O R

Shop Wolfpack

IN 2016, AFTER READING OVERDRESSED: THE SHOCKINGLY HIGH COST OF CHEAP FASHION, A BOOK BY ELIZABETH L. Cline that exposes the downfalls of the fashion industry, Katherine Dalton knew she had to change her consumer habits. She took her journey a step further in September 2018, when she launched Wolfpack, an online retailer of ethically sourced and sustainably made clothing, accessories, home goods, art, and gifts. The following spring, she opened a storefront on Main Street, which she relocated to Elm Street in April. Despite the location change, Daltonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s goal remains the same: educate shoppers about the waste and unethical practices tied to fast fashion and empower them to buy ethical, sustainable products. She does so by carrying items that are handmade in the U.S. by woman- and minority-owned small businesses and independent artists who pay their employees living wages. Wolfpack also uses recycled and biodegradable packaging materials, plants one tree for every order, and pays a monthly fee to neutralize the carbon emissions from each package it sends to customers. 1813 Elm St., Overthe-Rhine, shopthewolfpack.com PHOTOGRAPHS BY LANCE ADKINS

LIGHT SHOW

Projection Connections WHEN THE HAILE FOUNDATION’S ERIC AVNER asked for ideas on how to stay connected during the pandemic, Doug Borntrager answered the call. The sound and video designer for Know Theatre, Borntrager had an idea for a sort of mobile BLINK, a traveling light show he called Projection Connections. With support from Know and WavePool, he began collaborating with other artists, then hit the streets in early May. His ﬁrst route took him around Northside, and after a few test runs to work out some kinks (streaming issues, projector power, mapping fails), Borntrager began a summer odyssey through Greater Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky. Neighbors and families gathered on porches, in front yards, and even in parking lots to catch the show. Borntrager also livestreamed each event on his Facebook page, where he also highlighted many of the collaborating artists. Storms occasionally chased him off the streets, as did curfews following protests in June, but he continued through the early fall. We can only hope that this Connection stays strong—and comes back next year. Projection Connections on Facebook

Make It Better ive serice roviders that ca meet your ery seciﬁc eeds.

ZOOM-POWERED WORKOUT

e oement tudi, oingto When COVID-19 forced gyms to close their doors, The Movement Studio went digital, taking its high-powered classes into the Zoomverse so you can practice TRX, pilates, yoga, and more, all from the comfort of your living room. 118 W. Pike St., Second Floor, Covington, (513) 328-4110, nlptf.com

FOOD CHALLENGE

acht Oes, Nortsie act lu Northside Yacht Club has never been an establishment to shy away from the silly, crude, or ridiculous in the name of entertainment—and of course, really great bar food. This May they continued this ﬁne tradition with Yacht Ones, a hot wing–eating challenge in the spirit of a similarly titled, enormously popular YouTube series. It went something like this: $40 for two sets of eight progressively spicy wings doused in hot sauces, created by them and their buds at Ché, Longfellow, The Pony, Mazunte, Seoul Hot Chicken, Django Western Taco, and Moerlein Lager House. Mimicking the original, carryout diners were encouraged to split the wings with a “quarantine”-mate and answer a list of accompanying irreverent existential questions written by local trivia aﬁcionado Justin Schafer. 4231 Spring Grove Ave., Northside, (513) 541-0528, northside yachtclub.com

BRIDAL KEEPSAKES

lora reseratio & esigns Looking to keep that showstopper bouquet looking like new, even years after your wedding? Floral Preservation & Designs uses a special freeze-drying technique to preserve your arrangement in a shadow box that’ll keep your big moment frozen in time. ﬂoral preservationanddesigns.com

FENDER-BENDER DOCTORS

d’s olisio enter Even in the era of COVID-19, accidents still happen. With three locations spread across the Greater Cincinnati area, Wood’s Collision Center offers comprehensive repairs with contactless pickup and delivery, and even complimentary detailing services. woods collision.com

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HOME CLASSROOM RENO

chl b AS

PA N D E M I C T R E N D

SPCA Pet Adoptions

There have been few silver linings to the months of downtime we’ve spent by ourselves at home (hello, sweatpants!), but an unforeseen beneﬁt was the surge of local pet adoptions since March. SPCA Cincinnati reports more than 300 dog and cat adoptions each month in May, June, and July (there were only 68 adoptions in April). Once people realized the pandemic was going to last longer than originally thought, they sought out furry friends to quarantine with—a win/win for them and for overloaded shelters. The SCPA says adoptions were down slightly in August (212) and September (190) but still well ahead of pre-pandemic levels—and that’s after the organization closed its Northside facility to consolidate in Sharonville. 11900 Conrey Rd., Sharonville, (513) 541-6100, spcacincinnati.org

When they spotted a growing need for kid-friendly study spaces, local design duo Aubrey Wallen and Christine Trimmer, also known as CASA Design Consulting, jumped at the chance to help local families reclaim their kitchen tables—and their peace of mind. For a ﬂat fee, CASA will send childhood development experts to your home to assess you and your child’s speciﬁc needs and transform a room into a functional, well-organized oasis. The consultation also comes with a specially curated list of ageappropriate toys, learning materials, and recommended tutors to make your life just a tad bit easier, no matter what your child’s school situation looks like this year. casadesignconsulting.com

P L A N T- B A S E D S K I N C A R E P R O D U C T S

Flora Lee Naturals

Inspired by her passion for skincare and a desire to live a more natural lifestyle, Nia Baucke launched her natural skincare line, Cypress Beauty, in 2017. A year ago she rebranded her business to Flora Lee Naturals, a tribute to her late grandmother Flora Lee, whom Baucke grew up with in Michigan and who inspired her appreciation for natural remedies. Today, Flora Lee Naturals carries a handful of cleansing and toning products, which are made from plant-based ingredients inspired by Baucke’s grandmother’s garden. Her best-selling cleansing face scrub-slash-mask, for example, is made with aloe vera, lemon, lavender water, grapefruit, carrot seed, sunﬂower oil, and other “powerful, brightening ingredients.” Her mission? “To brighten your day and remind you to care for your already beautiful skin.” ﬂoraleenaturals.com

WELCOME ZOOM INTERRUPTION

incinnati OO als

Bored of seeing the same old faces on your office Zoom meetings? Spice things up with a special appearance by Fiona the Hippo. Proceeds go directly to the zoo’s emergency operating fund, so really, it’s a win-win. cincinnatizoo.org

FLORIST ON WHEELS

aisy ane’s lower ruc

Daisy Jane and Pearl Rose have been two very busy ladies this year—and their drivers have been, too. The charming 1960s Fords are ﬁlled to the brim with colorful blooms that have brought us some much needed joy in these dark times. daisyjanesﬂower truck.com

P H OTO G R A P H C O U R T E SY O F M E G A N M O O R E / I C O N S BY B R I T TA N Y D E X T E R

I N T E R A C T I V E T H E AT E R

The Children’s Theatre of Cincinnati LIKE ALL ARTS GROUPS, THE CHILDREN’S THEATRE OF Cincinnati has been trying to ﬁnd new ways to engage without the ability to perform for families and schools. Seeking outside expertise in virtual programming, they partnered with Cincinnati State Technical and Community College’s audio video production program, which recommended an interactive video platform called eko. Together they created Pick-APath, a series of streaming educational shows featuring interactivity that allows viewers to make active choices on their screens and send the story in different directions. The shows (Harriet Tubman: Straight Up Outta’ the Underground; Jacqueline and the Beanstalk; and Martin’s Dream, about Martin Luther King Jr.) were performed and staged by Children’s Theatre staff and ﬁlmed and edited by Cincinnati State students. Each show was rewritten a bit to take advantage of the eko platform, but Producing Artistic Director Roderick Justice says The Children’s Theatre is now commissioning new plays to take full advantage of the interactivity. 4015 Red Bank Rd., Columbia Twp., (513) 569-8080, thechildrenstheatre.com

MEMORIAL JEWELRY

eevue eader

Instead of leaving flowers from your special event to wither, why not make them into a keepsake that’ll stay with you forever? Bellevue Beadery specializes in creating custom pieces to commemorate life’s big moments, turning flowers into intimate and personalized pieces of jewelry. Bring in blooms from your wedding, prom night, loved one’s funeral, or even from your own backyard, and beadery owner Michele Roeding will turn them into an item of your choosing, from necklaces and bracelets to rosaries and bookmarks. Pick from a broad selection of more than 40 flower bead colors to pair with sterling silver, pearls, or Swarovski crystals. 402 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, (859) 292-0800

GIFT CARD

incy ard onnectio

Usually you think of 3CDC as a developer—their banners line construction fences all around Over-the-Rhine. This spring, though, in partnership with P&G and Empower, 3CDC launched something different: the Cincy Card Connection. If you bought a gift card from a downtown or Over-theRhine business and sent in a photo of the receipt, you’d get a matching gift card from another similar business. Cool idea—so cool the original funding was maxed out in 24 hours. A second round focused on retail and personal services, with the matching cards coming from minority- and women-owned businesses. In total, the project raised $650,000 for downtown businesses. Shop local, indeed. 3cdc.org/cincy-card-connection

P H OTO G R A P H C O U R T E SY A . JA M E S J O N E S / T H E C H I L D R E N ' S T H E AT R E

To Go, Please

J A PA N E S E M A R K E T

iki’s

Over the summer this ramen spot scaled back its dine-in capacity and hours for customers’ safety. In an unused section of the dining room, a Japanese market was added, selling sake, Japanese beers, Calpis sodas, regional sweet and savory snacks, and grab-and-go deli items like the eggy tamago sando. kikicincinnati.com BOOZE BOX

DELIVERY

oca estaurant roup

While the dining room at Boca is closed and seating at Sotto is limited, foodies can get the restaurant experience in The Chef’s Table, part of its Domo (Italian for “at home”) delivery program, with ﬁve seasonally rotating, chef-driven meals brought straight to your front door. domoathome.com A D U LT H A P P Y M E A L S

unlap aé

This OTR bar and restaurant serves up a nostalgic spin on fast food. Packed in a familiar folding kiddie box, a burger and fries are paired with beer, hard seltzer, or a cocktail, to lift your spirits. dunlapcafe.com

P H OTO G R A P H B Y A A R O N M . C O N WAY

ost & ound T

Don’t feel comfortable going to bars just yet? To enjoy the experience at home, the craft cocktail maestros at Lost & Found have created the Booze Box, a package of house cocktails and bougie snacks of your choice, plus a zine with a curated playlist so you can vibe while you imbibe. lostandfound otr.com CARRYOUT PICNICS

se & lder

These family-style meals come in three varieties to suit your mood and hunger level: The Flock, with fried chicken and mac and cheese; The Bodega, with ham and Swiss croissants with chips; and The Vegi-Curious, with hummus, veggies, and avocado toast. BYOB—basket, that is. gooseandelder. com

3 0 - M I N U T E S PA T R E AT M E N T

Oasis Face Bar OTR

Got half an hour to spare? You’ve got time to drop in for an appointment with Oasis Face Bar, the uber-convenient Walnut Street spa that specializes in quick, customizable facials that ﬁt neatly within your lunch break. The Columbus-based spa debuted its OTR location in 2018 with a slimmed-down menu of just six targeted treatments that clock in at only 30 minutes apiece. Customize your experience by adding on a few extra non-invasive à la carte treatments, book a girls’—or a guys’—night out, or check out their membership program to carve out a monthly space for some self-care. 1345 Walnut St., Overthe-Rhine, (513) 348-5627, oasisfacebar.com

SCIENCE CHEERLEADER

Chris Anderson

Chris Anderson’s YouTube series Science Around Cincy has introduced students to a new generation’s Hawaiian-shirt-wearing, goofy-joketelling version of TV’s Bill Nye the Science Guy. His 10-minute interviews of local scientists, naturalists, and animal specialists have been picked up by Cincinnati Public Schools for use in virtual science classes and are broadcast on KET public television across Kentucky. Anderson’s goal is to ﬁght the disturbing rise of science denial by presenting elementary- and middle-school students with fun visits into the everyday lives of Cincinnati scientists, who, he reminds us, are real people trying to solve real-world problems. sciaroundcincy.com

Made by Made by Hand Hand ive more ocal ts sellers e love.

ANTIQUES

PRINTS

Jon Wood sources antique items from all over the country for his shop, from graphic T-shirts to industrial drafting tables to Depression-era multi-drawer cabinets. He typically restores his rare ﬁnds before selling them and occasionally handcrafts industrial benches and desks of his own. etsy.com/shop/AntiqueRevolu tionLLC

Erlanger-based artist Emily Louise Howard reproduces her distinct linocut prints using hand-carved linoleum blocks to transfer oil-based inks onto heavyweight tagboard paper. Her mostly black-and-white illustrations often feature animals; nature; and strong female subjects like Medusa, Venus, and Idun. etsy.com/shop/TheDiggingest Girl

CUSTOM JEWELRY

ntique evoution e Diingest Girl Ol Hils esign Co.

This woman-owned, Middletown-based company specializes in handmade jewelry featuring clean designs with natural gemstones and precious metals, including absolutely stunning custom engagement rings and wedding bands. It also offers ceramic mugs and custom wood signs and cutting boards. etsy.com/shop/ OldHillsDesignCo

I C O N S BY B R I T TA N Y D E X T E R

B R A N D R E I N V E N T I O N + E X PA N S I O N

anzy hop + tuio Best friends and UC DAAP alumnae Brittney Braemer and Suzy Hinnefeld opened Handzy Shop + Studio on Covington’s West Pike Street in July 2016 as a stationery gift shop and graphic design studio. Two years later, after realizing their inventory was too speciﬁc for Covington’s demographics, they transitioned Handzy into a lifestyle boutique, offering cards (designed in-house), prints, gifts, clothes, and accessories. Last November, they moved Handzy into a larger space next door and debuted Gumdrop, a children’s clothing, toy, and accessories shop, in the former Handzy space. Last month they opened second locations of each concept in the historic West Fourth District downtown. Since 2016, Braemer and Hinnefeld have worked hard to reinvent Handzy to ﬁt the needs of the community, but they’ve successfully maintained their brand’s unique, lively identity, which keeps customers coming back for more. 15 and 17 W. Pike St., Covington, handzyshopstudio.com, gumdroptots.com

G R A D U AT I O N C E R E M O N Y

aking aps at entuck peedway It started with Gallatin County High School. In May, that school announced a partnership with the Kentucky Speedway (also located in Gallatin County) that would allow its seniors to take a “victory lap.” A month later, graduates from Cooper, Conner, Ryle, and Boone County high schools queued up in groups of 40 cars, took three laps around the track, and posed for photos (in their cars) at the start/ ﬁnish line. They didn’t set any speed records—pace cars going 45 mph led and followed each group—but it was a memorable way to cap off a high school career. kentuckyspeedway.com

SOAPS AND SUNDRIES

S C I E N C E-T H E M E D G I F T S

range uzz

im & imer

With 10,000-plus sales since 2009, this popular shop sells handmade soaps, candles, deodorant, laundry detergent, and face and shaving products made from all-natural, eco-friendly ingredients. Find them locally at Deerhaus Decor, Lentz & Company, and Toko Baru. etsy. com/shop/orangefuzz

Science nerds will appreciate this shop for its amino acid–themed greeting cards and prints featuring the molecular breakdowns of beer, bourbon, and other alcoholic favorites. We personally love the duo’s beaker terrarium kits for air plants and moss balls. etsy.com/shop/ kimandkimberly

I L LU S T R AT I O N B Y L AU R A G R E E N A N / P H OTO G R A P H B Y A A R O N M . C O N WAY

TEAM EFFORT

Restaurant Relief THE ONSET OF THE CORONAVIRUS PANDEMIC IN MIDMarch left restaurants grappling with how to continue serving their customers as the governors of Ohio and Kentucky ordered dining rooms closed. One thing was universal, however: Fewer customers meant fewer staff members would be necessary, and restaurants that would come out on the other side would need to downsize in order to remain solvent. Roughly 8 million restaurant workers were furloughed nationwide by mid-April, according to the National Restaurant Association, including many in our own backyard. When Louisville-based restaurant nonproﬁt The LEE Initiative, cofounded by chef-restaurateur Edward Lee and managing director Lindsay Ofcacek, approached their friend Jose Salazar, chef-owner of Mita’s, Salazar, and Goose & Elder, to be a Cincinnati partner in their Restaurant Workers Relief Program (in partnership with Maker’s Mark), he was all in. Between March 19 and the end of May, Salazar’s team at Mita’s served about 14,000 meals (200 per night, seven days a week) and distributed toiletries and nonperishables to furloughed restaurant workers in need. Their efforts supporting those who have made their industry possible when they needed it most reminded us that, yes, we really are all in this together.

V I R T U A L PA I N T PA R T Y

oul ale If this was a typical year, the husband-and-wife duo behind Soul Palette would be gallivanting around Cincinnati, bringing their customizable paint parties to eager audiences. But this is no typical year. Lucky for us, the mobile-based art company has adapted. With in-person paint parties and private sessions on standby, Soul Palette moved online, hosting lighthearted virtual painting lessons on Facebook for artists at every age and skill level. Tune in, grab a palette and a canvas—and maybe a drink, if you’re there for the adult class—and get ready to channel your inner Bob Ross. (513) 227-4836, paintwithyoursoul.com

FOOD SUBSCRIPTION BOX

Findlay Kitchen Curated If there is a positive to come out of a global pandemic, perhaps it’s that we can get a taste of our favorite Findlay Market Kitchen entrepreneurs’ eats from the comfort of our own homes. In October the incubator kitchen debuted a curated subscription box ﬁlled with sweet and savory handcrafted goodies, including bagels from 513 Bagel Company, meat seasonings from Afromeals, hand pies from City Belle Fried Pies, chocolate chip cookies from Like Mom’s Only Vegan, botanical infusions from Nectar Springs, and sea salt caramels from Sunshine Caramels. We honestly can’t think of a better form of self-care in these weird times. ﬁndlaykitchen.org/ curated

S TA N D O U T F E M A L E B U S I N E S S O W N E R

pruce ail hop’s olly agle In September, local entrepreneur Molly Nagle was named Woman-Owned Small Business Person of the Year by the Columbus District Office of the U.S. Small Business Administration. Nagle launched Spruce Nail Shop in Over-theRhine in March 2016, with just ﬁve employees. The salon has since outgrown its ﬂagship Vine Street storefront and relocated to a larger space at Findlay Market, added a mobile salon service to bring the “good, clean fun” straight to your doorstep, and expanded its staff to more than 20 employees. Nagle has also added a line of skin care services, including facials and cacao-based spray tans, and continues to offer nail care using only safe, eco-friendly polishes. Talk about a glow up. 1818 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 818-8749, sprucenailshop.com

NEIGHBORHOOD RESOURCE

incinnati ree Fdg The brainchild of Jordan Tuss, Siri Imani of the Triiibe Foundation, and Toncia Chavez of ETC Produce & Provisions, this rainbow-colored refrigerator popped up in October at 1313 Vine. Based on a project in New York that created a regional network of the mini food pantries, the fridge landed in space shared between the More Free 2020 voter registration project and the Triiibe Foundation’s support center for people experiencing homelessness. Local restaurants and Findlay Market vendors (and donations) helped keep the shelves stocked, and at press time, the fridge was in search of a more permanent home. @thefridgecincy on Instagram

I L LU S T R AT I O N BY L AU R A G R E E N A N

Together, Apart ive ays to ave un ie staing socia distant.

OUTDOOR HANGOUT

dgevie ox ar Unveiled in June at Newport on the Levee, Bridgeview’s shipping containers create spaces for small business—including Wooden Cask Brewing, Ché on Wheels, and Leaf & Limb—and space for social distancing. newportonthelevee.com/bridgeview-box-park-hours H O M E- B A S E D T R I V I A

S O C I A L LY D I S TA N T D R A M A

annie ou amer peak n It! Know Theatre took this two-actor production, based on rallies by civil rights activist Fannie Lou Hamer, to 14 parking lots across the area. The productions also served as voter registration drives. knowtheatre.com S K AT E B O A R D C R E W

e pproximate nowede Institute of incinnati When bars closed, trivia night moved online, and Justin Schafer took his AKIC to YouTube, developing a touchless option, and giving away gift cards to Queen City Radio and Northside Yacht Club. (Schafer also wrote the questions for NSYC’s Yacht Ones hot wings challenge.) akioc.com MOVIE NIGHT

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Between Memorial Day and Halloween, this group of rad dads hit the streets on their boards for a weekly ride. The brainchild of Jonathan Wilis, the idea was “making connections with people,” Willis told us earlier this year. Keep an eye on Instagram for further shenanigans. @dadskatesquad

The College Hill Community Urban Redevelopment Corporation (CHCURC) decided to bring movies back to the neighborhood’s Hollywood Theatre, projecting ﬁlms on the back of the building to beneﬁt its redevelopment projects. hollywooddriveintheater.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY LANCE ADKINS

CHRIS RICHARDSON’S

CINCINNATI SONGS (IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER)

“CINCINNATI HIT PARADE” BY BILL FRANKLIN (1950): This marvelous slice of “hillbilly jive” really swings, punctuated by bursts of chiming steel guitar and old-timey roller rink organ. Plus it’s a truck driving song. “CINCINNATI BLUES” BY JESSE FULLER (1965): Aching vocals and plaintive Piedmont-style fingerpicking make for compelling listening. There’s a live recording on a 2006 box set by Smithsonian’s Folkways, Friends of Old Time Music. “CINCINNATI KID” BY PRINCE BUSTER (1966): One of Jamaica’s leading lights slyly calls out praise to King Records’s most famous artist in this far-sighted fusion of rocksteady and funk, drawing a direct line between Kingston and Cincinnati. “CINCINNATI WOMAN” BY THE HUBBUBS (1971): Catchy AM radio power pop with fuzztone guitar, go-go horns, and Laugh-In production sound with (surprise!) German lyrics. Fortunately, the song title in English begins each chorus and will have you singing along in no time. “CINCINATTI WOMAN” BY SPODE (1971): Galloping guitar lines are set against a lonely Moody Blues–style backing vocal, perfectly evoking the mysterious charm of that elusive lass from the misspelled city. “CINCINNATI SQUARE” BY CHUCK ROBINSON (EARLY 1970S): Groovy psych-jazz-funk celebration of a super hip and happening gathering spot that, uh, doesn’t actually exist. But let’s give Robinson the benefit of the doubt and assume he meant Fountain Square. “CINCINNATI BLUES” BY RAY PENNINGTON & BUDDY EMMONS (1984): Former King Records producer Pennington wrangles pioneering country-jazz guitarist Emmons on a western swing number that declares Cincinnati an effective treatment for his ailing spirits. “CINCINNATI” BY HOLIDAYMAKERS (1988): Tuneful, jangly guitars come to the fore on this fetching, uptempo indie-pop number by a Scottish band who released a couple of singles in the UK in the late 1980s. “OH, CINCINNATI” BY THE SEEDY SEEDS (2008): Findlay Market and the abandoned subway get shout-outs in what sounds to my ears like an obvious local radio hit, with wistful banjo lines tempered by modern pop sensibilities. “CINCINNATI BEARS” BY PNS & ZAVALA (2009): The irresistible groove of this hip-hop/funk instrumental makes an ideal backdrop for a scenic Cincinnati drive. SPECIAL MENTION “CINCINNATI STAR” BY ED WILLIAMS (1979), a wonderfully concise time capsule of 20th-century Cincinnati pop culture history through the late 1970s.

INCINNATI HAS PROMOTED ITSELF AS THE CITY THAT Sings since hosting the World Choir Games in 2012. There’s a mural downtown on the riverfront with that motto and a bright sculpture near the Roebling Suspension Bridge spelling out a variation, “Sing the Queen City,” in large red and white letters. Another popular mural on the CET studio building portrays famous folks—plus Mr. Redlegs and Cincinnati Police Officer Alphonso Staples—belting out tunes. But maybe a more appropriate slogan would be The City That’s Sung About. That’s because there are recordings of more than 200 (and counting) separate songs using Cincinnati in the title. They go back to 1924 and William B. Houchens’s “Cincinnati Hornpipe and Devine’s Hornpipe,” a devilishly fast ﬁddler’s delight from an artist who played folk songs but also taught at the Cincinnati Conservatory of Music. And they continue right through 2019 with Texas Troubadour legend Kinky Friedman’s “Greater Cincinnati.” In between those two titles are all manner of Cincinnati songs—by turns sublime, dull, strange, silly, comforting, challenging, tender, profane, and mysterious. Some are by well-known artists like The Beach Boys (“Susie Cincinnati” in 1976), Dwight Yoakam (“South of Cincinnati” in 1984), Ray Charles (the title song from the 1965 ﬁlm The Cincinnati Kid), and Phish guitarist Trey Anastasio (“Cincinnati” in 2006). Some are by local acts, like Jake Speed & The Freddies and Tracy Walker’s 2007 “All Roads Lead to Cincinnati” or boogie-woogie stalwart Big Joe Duskin’s “Cincinnati Stomp” from 1978. And some are by acts with such unusual names—My Name Is Ian, Banned from Atlantis, The Sexual Objects, and Boll Weevil Jass Band—that you have to wonder what about Cincinnati caught their attention. Was it our boll weevils? Our infamous sexual repression? For making us aware of the breadth and scope of Cincinnati songs, we have the self-described “pop music archeologist” Chris Richardson to thank. Since 2014 he’s been methodically discovering and listing recordings that mention Cincinnati in the title on his website Zero to 180: Three Minute Magic. With several exceptions, each is an unduplicated individual title. He’s also learned from his research that, no surprise, Cincinnati gets misspelled occasionally. “Without trying to over-exaggerate, it looks like there will be a never-ending supply of songs about Cincinnati,” says Richardson.

WALES CINCINNATI

FROM TO

With Love

Looking at Chris Richardson’s long list of songs with Cincinnati in their title, I came across a strange one, even by his standards. In 2017, Welsh band My Name Is Ian released the album Cincinnati Cola, with song titles like “Harambe” and “Spring Grove Cemetery.” Looking at their website and other sources, I learned the band took a retreat here in 2016, witnessed the shooting death of Harambe at the Cincinnati Zoo, and wrote “Fight, Drink and Watch People Die on TV” after overhearing a conversation at Sundry and Vice in Over-the-Rhine. Further, it’s the first in their planned “19,345 Cities” project—an album per city. With that info, plus the fact that I loved their music, I wrote to bandleader Reginald Foxwell (pictured below right with his bandmates) to find out more.

I L LU S T R AT I O N BY Z AC H A R Y G H A D E R I / P H OTO G R A P H C O U R T E SY M Y N A M E I S I A N

RICHARDSON, 56, GREW UP IN ROSELAWN AND NOW LIVES WITH his family—wife Melanie and a 14-year-old son and 11-year-old daughter—in Silver Spring, Maryland. He has a graduate degree in library information services from the University of Maryland and started Zero to 180 on December 12, 2012, because, he says, he liked the numerology. The Cincinnati in Song category is but one—an extremely important one—of the website’s more than 100 music-related topics. Several others relate to Cincinnati music as well, including King Records, but he’s built quite a fascinating and varied collection. Other topics include African Pop, Bagpipes in Popular Music, Concept Albums, and Truck Driving Songs. “I have the most authoritative list of songs that have Library in their title,” Richardson informs me.

CHRIS RICHARDSON IS INTRIGUED THAT THE CITY’S NAME TURNS UP IN SONGS AND ENTIRE ALBUMS FROM FOREIGN COUNTRIES. As he writes on Zero to 180, our city isn’t unique in having songs named after it. Still, there’s something special at work here, he believes. “Cincinnati is hardly the ﬁrst American city to be celebrated in popular song,” he says. “Nevertheless, I ﬁnd it curious how frequently Cincinnati has appeared in a popular song title in the past 95 years.” Richardson has all sorts of provocative ideas about why that’s so. The city’s name is blessed with the gift of sibilance, he says, a linguistic technique of producing pleasant hissing sounds through speaking or singing soft consonants. “That’s illustrated in song titles like ‘Susie Cincinnati,’ ‘Cincinnati Cindy,’ ‘Cincinnati Sammy,’ and ‘Cincinnati Slick,’” he says. He’s especially intrigued that the city’s name turns up in songs and entire albums from foreign countries. He believes that might be because it resonates with those who speak CO N T I N U E D O N PAG E 76

How did you happen to be taking a band retreat in Cincinnati? Funny enough, our trip to Cincinnati in 2016 was actually inspired by humdrum real-life in our hometown of Cardiff, Wales. I was working in a bar where the standard brand of cola we served was Cincinnati Cola, something we never actually found there! That’s where the album name obviously came from, but it also must have triggered some intrigue within me. As a band, there was no particular plan when we went there; we saw it as much as a holiday as a band retreat. But it was a beautiful place. We had a great time. Lots of hangovers, culture, and inspiration (mostly stemming from the Pendleton area we were staying in) that led to us producing the album about a year later. What were the circumstances by which you witnessed Harambe’s death? Ah, Harambe. I think calling us “witnesses” may be a slight exaggeration. We weren’t in the enclosure or on the fence. And not actually even in the zoo, as it happens! But we were there in the city at the same time, and it felt weird. I don’t know if it was just our mood, but everything felt quite strange afterwards. Have you made any progress on your “19,345 Cities” project? The short answer here is no. It is a bold project, and even the selection of the remaining 19,344 cities beyond Cincinnati has been difficult. But we’re planning on doing another album relating to Milwaukee, just down the road from you. We’ve made a lot of friends at Marquette University on the internet over the last few years and figure that writing an album about a place may somehow force the universe into letting us play there. We are also eyeing up Chicago. Ultimately, either way, we’d love to come over to the U.S. and do a three-city tour: Milwaukee, Chicago, and Cincinnati. Anything else you want to add? Only that we had the best time there. With the world the way it is, we’re not sure when we’ll be back. Oh, and say Hi to Adam at Sundry and Vice if he still works there! —S. R.

How Heritage Acres Memorial Sanctuary came to be the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only dedicated natural burial preserve. By Amy Brownlee Photographs by Chris Von Holle 59

“green burial” areas within their property. But these are surrounded by the conventional cemetery setting. Gupton, along with a group of individuals dedicated to the values and practices of natural burial, set out to ﬁnd a property built and maintained only for this purpose. Their new nonproﬁt project, Heritage Acres Memorial Sanctuary, officially opened on April 22, the 50th anniversary of Earth Day.

“ THIS S IS S THE WAY HUMAN

CO N N I E BOO OTH H S PENT T A LIFETIME CARING FOR the land. An avid gardener, she was raised on the Colorado prairie,and as an adult trained in Cincinnati to be a horticulturist. She worked at the Civic Garden Center for 11 years. Booth was diagnosed with brain cancer in 2017. Realizing that she had just months to live, she imagined a final resting place as close to the land as possible. It was her fondest wish to have a natural burial, one free from the trappings of today’s conventional funerals: embalming, concrete vaults, and vertical polished monuments plotted on geometric grids. That simply wasn’t what she wanted for herself or her loved ones. Booth planned to use a woven wicker casket, which would, with her body, biodegrade in the soil and go back to the earth. She would become part of the trees, flowers, and grass that she had loved so faithfully. She wasn’t and isn’t alone in this wish. Before her death, Booth was part of a local movement, led by Bill Gupton, senior minister of Heritage Universalist Unitarian Church, to find a location for a dedicated natural burial ground. Many local high-profile cemeteries, such as Spring Grove, offer designated

beings have been buried forever, until the last 150 years,” Gupton says. During and after the Civil War, embalming—the surgical process of replacing a deceased person’s blood with a mixture of chemicals (including formaldehyde) to preserve their body—gained favor. To the grieving families, it must have seemed like a miracle of science: Their lost sons could be sent home instead of buried on a distant battleﬁeld. After President Lincoln was assassinated in 1865, the new practice was put on literal public display: His body was embalmed and carried by train on a tour from Washington, D.C., back to his home in Illinois. “Then over the next generation or two in our country,” Gupton says, “we got away from the traditional practices of the family caring for the body of the deceased. [Embalming] became very commonplace and people, not coincidentally, became more and more disconnected from the cycle of life and death, from the grieving and mourning process.” It’s impossible to separate death from grieving. Indeed, how we care for the body of a loved one, how we say goodbye, and how we remember them are all part of the same experience and can come to characterize our very relationship with that person. Our current way of burying our dead is not, in Gupton’s view, conducive to “healthy grieving.” “When a loved one dies,” he says, “you have spent years, decades, and in some cases your whole life intimately involved with that person, living with that person, knowing that person. And then they pass away. To me, the natural

RESPECT AND LOVE BILL GUPTON (LEFT AND PREVIOUS PAGES) AND PATRICK SANDERS MANAGE HERITAGE ACRES MEMORIAL SANCTUARY IN ANDERSON TOWNSHIP.

human thing is to care for that person’s body in a respectful and loving way and then return them to the earth from which they came.” But conventional funerals, says Gupton, separate us from that process. “What we do now is pick up the phone and then some personnel show up and take the person’s body away and do things to that body. And then we show up for an appointed one-hour time slot somewhere to be with their body. Everything is very quick and sanitized.” Gupton says the mourners, the ones left behind, aren’t given enough space and time these days to go through a healthy grieving process. “You might set aside a half a day or a day for this, and then you’re back to work,” he says. “And you’re supposed to, you know, have a stiff upper lip. And that’s just not healthy. It’s not right. We’ve gotten disconnected from the natural cycle.” Gupton came to his current role as founder of Heritage Acres—it’s owned by the church but operates independently—almost by accident, or maybe serendipity. With a master’s degree in divinity from the Paciﬁc School of Religion in Berkeley, California, he’s been ministering in the Unitarian Universalist church since 1996. On a trip around Concord, Massachusetts, many years ago, visiting such storied sites as Walden Pond, he happened upon the

grave of writer Henry David Thoreau, who died in 1862. The Transcendentalists, a school of thinkers led by Thoreau and other 19th-century ﬁgures (most notably Ralph Waldo Emerson), held that the divine spirit coexisted with the natural world. “It was an a ha! moment that changed my way of thinking about death and dying,” Gupton recalls. “Thoreau’s grave is very simple. There’s a little stone there about the size of a book cover that just says Henry. There’s a pine tree growing up out of his grave. And I got to thinking about 150 years ago what that would have been like: just a wooden box and his remains naturally b e co m i n g C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 8 0

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Experience professionally recorded and edited versions of three of our touring productions enhanced with interactive components where viewers can “CHOOSE THEIR OWN ADVENTURE” by making different choices along the way. Children can make selections and direct the action of the play — including different twists and turns — providing greater viewing interest and interactive engagement. All leading to the same outcome, of course, because we don’t want to change the story.

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IN GREATER CINCINNATI & NORTHERN KENTUCKY,

CARING FOR EACH OTHER IS IN OUR DNA. The Deserving Neighbor Award is a joint partnership between Procter & Gamble and Kroger that celebrates the amazing people throughout Greater Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky who go the extra step to care for others. From checking in on a senior, to dropping off groceries, to opening a restaurant for carryout, to working double shifts at a hospital, to delivering supplies, to sewing face masks and more, these acts of kindness and generosity are the heartbeat of our community. These humble and courageous people work tirelessly to ensure those in need of extra care have everything they need to get through these tough times. From June - September, a committee of representatives from several prominent Cincinnati organizations selected a total of 13 winners from nominations submitted by local members of the community. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a look at all of our Deserving Neighbor Award Winners. Congratulations!

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MEET THE WINNERS:

KELLY ADAMSON Executive Director, Over-the-Rhine Chamber of Commerce

"Supporting local businesses in turn supports local families and I see it on a daily basis. I walk into a business and meet their mom, grandparents, I even meet their babies and little ones. I understand it's their livelihood that we are supporting and we need to be all in it together and support our local families and community. That's why it's so critical for the OTR Chamber to support these businesses."

PABLO CASAREZ Teacher at the School for Creative and Performing Arts

"Teaching is a vocation, it's a calling. You don't always get credit, but when you do or when you get recognized by peers, by friends, by students, it's just awesome and makes you realize that you're doing something right."

Visit cincinnatimagazine.com/deservingneighbor for stories and videos from each of our winners! 6 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

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TYE COMPTON Volunteer and Mentor

"When you are in a position where

you are stable and have everything that you need, that's the time to reach out to your neighbors and say# 'Hey, do you need help?' I really want to not just sit around, but be able to make change that is fundamental and that improves lives."

SUZANNE DEYOUNG Chef and Owner of La Soupe

"Our mission is to rescue perfectly good food before it goes to a landďŹ ll from produce stores, grocery stores, purveyors, distributors and local farms. Then we transform it and share it with the food insecure community within Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky. Since COVID, we serve about 45,000 servings of food a week to individuals in need."

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LINDA MARTIN SNC Church Food Pantry Director

"Since COVID started, we've served over 1,700 families. So many people will say 'Oh I'm really sorry I have to ask for help, I've never had to ask for help,' and my answer is always -- that's why I'm here! It's not just about feeding them food, it's about feeding their soul."

JONATHAN COOPER Superintendent of Mason City Schools

"Being in this role...it's a gift that you're given to be able to have a platform to care for others, so I'm trying to maximize that platform whether to allocate resources or time or encouraging and inspiring others to care for neighbors or caring for our students -- that's the opportunity and I don't want to waste it. It's a great privilege."

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TIM CHARLES Retired Maintenance Worker for Cincinnati Metropolitan Housing Authority

"I don't think we pay enough attention to the elderly people...especially if they have lost a husband or wife. As they get up in years, they really want to do things themselves but they can't and they're afraid to ask for help. That's where I come in."

ADINA WOFFORD Retail Manager for the St. Francis Seraph Ministries' Sarah Center

"When COVID hit, we shifted our focus to our Dining Kitchen program to make sure people were fed. I decided that I needed to be here because something needs to be done, these people need help and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to help them. Whenever Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m helping for a good cause, it gives me passion to want to do it 300, 400 -- maybe 1,000%"

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ALISHA SCHWEITZER Senior HR Specialist, Cincinnati Children's Hospital Medical Center

"In my neighborhood, we have a great group of neighbors that watch out for each other. During the crisis, I've kept an eye on things for everybody and tried to make sure that everyone is good to go in every way. But collectively we all come running to help each other whenever we need it. It's not just me, it's ALL of us."

ABE BRANDYBERRY Pastor and Co-Founder of Cincinnati Urban Promise

"I would encourage others to ďŹ nd ways to get involved with organizations that serve others because there are so many things you can do to enrich the lives of everyone around you. One of the things that keeps me here in Cincinnati is being part of a community of people who are passionate about helping their neighbors."

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ANDREA OWENS Registered Nurse, St. Elizabeth Fort Thomas

"When COVID began, I really felt that our entire country was full of fear and as a nurse, I knew that I would have to step up. I try to go above and beyond for my patients and treat them like they are my family, and I'm glad that my care makes a difference. Taking care of my patients is a reward for me and that's all the reward I need."

LATISHA OWENS Founder & President of Guiding Light Mentoring

"It's important to support my community during this COVID-19 pandemic crisis because individuals need the support. A lot of people are facing ďŹ nancial crisis or just going through things emotionally and I deďŹ nitely want to be there for my community."

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3CDC OPERATIONS Operations Ambassadors

"It's a hard job to keep 150 blocks of Downtown beautiful, clean and safe -- especially when our team was reduced from 70+ to just 9 people, but we're here to get it done. Our team's commitment to the city shows a sense of togetherness, even when things feel like they're separated. We know that as long as we're together everything works well."

SPECIAL THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO NOMINATED A CARING INDIVIDUAL AND DESERVING NEIGHBOR!

CONGRATULATIONS AGAIN TO ALL OF OUR WINNERS! SPONSORED BY

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Serving more patients and families today requires new tools Lindner Center of HOPE must expand and incorporate additional technology and infrastructure to serve more patients and families in need of mental healthcare. Telehealth involves direct interaction between a clinician and a patient.

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SING A SONG OF CINCINNATI CONTINUED FROM PAGE 57

the Latin-inﬂuenced Romance languages of Italian, French, Spanish, Portuguese, and Romanian, since the ancient military hero Cincinnatus famously saved Rome from invaders and then gave up power to return to farming. “It’s just fun to think why there’s use of the name on electronic dance tracks out of western Europe,” says Richardson. “It’s also interesting to see the genres of songs from Spain, and I wonder if the Cincinnatus mystique explains the presence of songs from Italy.” On the other hand, he acknowledges, the city’s musical

blues recordings for Cincinnati history buffs; it can also rank as a bona ﬁde classic of recorded blues.” Tracy even recorded his own variation, issued on the 1987 WEBN Album Project, called “Goin’ to Cincinnati.” During a phone interview from the University of Massachusetts, where he teaches in the W.E.B. Du Bois Department of AfroAmerican Studies, Tracy explains how Cincinnati was a destination and topic for blues singers raised in the south, like Coleman. “It liked to think of itself as the Queen City of the west, and that contributed to it being mentioned in songs like ‘Cincinnati Southern Blues’ and others,” says Tracy. That song, inspired by the city-owned Cincinnati Southern Railway, was recorded in 1927 by blues pianist Cow Cow Davenport with singer Ivy Smith. Among the country songs about our city is what’s perhaps the most recognized of all Cincinnati songs: Country Music Hall of Famer Bill Anderson’s 1964 tune “Cincin-

THE MOST RECOGNIZED OF ALL SONGS ABOUT OUR CITY IS PERHAPS “CINCINNATI, OHIO,” WRITTEN BY BILL ANDERSON IN 1964 AND OFTEN PLAYED AT REDS HOME GAMES. popularity could be due just as much to the popularity of the WKRP in Cincinnati sitcom and its theme song. Looking at the early decades of Cincinnati in song, one can ﬁnd quite a few blues and country titles, perhaps beﬁtting a city just above the Mason-Dixon Line and a state that includes rural Appalachian areas. Walter Coleman’s 1936 “I’m Going to Cincinnati” is an enduring blues standout. Cincinnati native Steven Tracy, author of the book Going to Cincinnati: The Blues in the Queen City, says that song is distinctive for its intimate knowledge of the city’s pleasures of the day. Coleman sings with gusto to a driving rhythm, “I’m going to Cincinnati, where they eat fried food / I’m going to Cincinnati, boys, where the bottle is good… / Now when you come to Cincinnati stop on Sixth and Main / That’s where the good hustlin women get the good cocaine.” In his book, Tracy writes it’s “undoubtedly the most fascinating of all Cincinnati

nati, Ohio.” While the South Carolina–born and Georgia-raised Anderson didn’t have a hit with his original recording, Indiana-born and Ohio-raised Connie Smith did in 1967. You’ll often hear her version played at Reds games in Great American Ball Park. Anderson, a consummate songwriter who also wrote or cowrote such country classics as “City Lights” and “Saginaw, Michigan” (rhyming the state’s name with ﬁsherman), envisioned this one while changing planes in Cincinnati. It communicates a powerful desire to return here after being away: “I walked halfway from Louisville / Now there she lies at the foot of the hill / Shinin’ like a jewel in the valley below / Cincinnati, Ohio, Cincinnati, Ohio.” In a phone call from Nashville, Anderson recalls his inspiration for that verse. “In the old days before interstates, we used to travel in cars rather than tour buses, and I remember going up Kentucky Highway 42 between Louisville and Cincinnati,” he

7 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

says, referring to U.S. 42. “Riding around at night, you’d come around a curve and in front of you, down the hill, all of a sudden were all these lights of Cincinnati. That stayed in my mind.” Before Anderson’s hit, a popular postwar country swing tune had fun with the city’s name and, possibly, its desire for a respectable image. “Cincinnati Lou” by Merle Travis, a chart hit in 1946, establishes a jaunty, lively groove as he tosses off effortlessly amusing lines like, “When they see my Lou, they holler ‘Oh my, oh’ / She put the ‘oh’ in Ohio / She put the sin in Cincinnati, too.” Travis, a Kentucky native, established his music career in Cincinnati by working for radio station WLW and recording at King Records. Richardson believes that the rhymable nature of the word Cincinnati may attract composers, especially those with a sense of humor. The Wonderland Chorus and Orchestra released “Fatty from Cincinnati,” which appears to be a children’s jump rope song. Shel Silverstein, the sly writer of humorous hits like “A Boy Named Sue” and “The Cover of Rolling Stone,” really stretched his poetic skills on 1970’s “The Cleanest Man in Cincinnati,” a funny song that failed to be a commercial hit. It’s about a man trying to remain true, or at least follow good sanitary practices, while his beloved is gone: “If you don’t hurry up and bring your sweet love home to daddy / I’m going to turn into the dirtiest man in Cincinnati.” There are memorable Cincinnati songs in such genres as jazz (pianist Ran Blake’s “Cincinnati Express,” from his 2015 Ghost Tones tribute album to Cincinnati-born composer George Russell); country-rock (Julie Neumark’s powerful “Cincinnati”); and funk-rock (Roogalator’s “Cincinnati Fatback,” a tribute to soulful Cincinnati musicians from a British band fronted by Cincinnatian Danny Adler). And yes, Spanish power ballads are also well-represented (Dani Flaco’s “Cincinnati”). BEYOND ALL THE TRADITIONAL MUSIC categories and their hybrids, though, Cincinnati really excels in being named in the title of songs about animals. And not just household pets—songs about pigs, bears, pigeons, and cockroaches, too.

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SING A SONG OF CINCINNATI Not so well known today, the 1950 novelty hit “Cincinnati Dancing Pig” generated at least 15 versions (according to Secondhandsongs.com) by a who’s who of that era’s recording stars. Red Foley, a Kentucky-born country musician, had a Top 10 pop hit with it, but there were also versions from Tennessee Ernie Ford, Vic Damone, Teresa Brewer, Hoagy Carmichael, and even jazz great Gene Krupa’s orchestra. Some, like Cincinnati Magazine’s own Dr. Know, consider the song “wretched,” but it also has an infectiously up-tempo dance beat and lyrics about a “pork chop dapper Dan” that are hard to resist, no matter how much one might try. But why would anyone want to write or record about such a bizarre subject? First of all, if you were determined to create a novelty song about Cincinnati for a national audience, one that slightly made fun of the city, pigs would be a likely subject. The city was widely known as Porkopo-

1830–1850” from the 1991 album Music as a Second Language by Paul DeMarinis, an associate professor of art, art history, and music at Stanford University who also exhibited work at Carl Solway Gallery in the 1990s. For roughly six minutes, an electronically manipulated male voice intones the grueling process of hog slaughtering to minimalistic electronic accompaniment. The source is Siegfried Giedion’s book Mechanization Takes Command. It’ll make you seriously consider vegetarianism.“I had a professional voice actor record the text, did a digital analysis of it and a re-synthesis employing the melody of the voice to digital synthetic instruments, re-creating the voice with alien, algorithmic melodies,” explains DeMarinis. In more recent times, a novelty song with a surprisingly long life was 1973’s “The Cockroach That Ate Cincinnati” by a California group called Rose & The Arrangement, who ﬁrst released it under the

IF A WRITER WERE DETERMINED TO CREATE A FUNNY NOVELTY SONG ABOUT CINCINNATI FOR A NATIONAL AUDIENCE, PIGS WOULD BE A LIKELY SUBJECT. lis in the 19th century for its filthy pig slaughtering industry. Also, there was some precedent for the conceit of a dancing pig—a 1907 French short film, Le Cochon Danseur, depicts a pig-disguised performer dancing with a young woman. “Cincinnati Dancing Pig” was written by two music-biz veterans, lyricist Al Lewis (he also wrote the classic “Blueberry Hill”) and music composer Guy Wood. The latter once said with pride that Mickey Mantle told him he loved the song. Another fan was the young Eric “Hambone” Buhrer, who went on to cofound the popular jug band The Cincinnati Dancing Pigs, which has been around since the late 1960s (although it’s on hiatus during the pandemic). “I picked the name,” Buhrer says. “It was a big hit in 1950 when my brother Jeff was a baby. Mom used to bounce him on her knee to it.” The city’s days as Porkopolis also inspired at least one serious entry, the experimental composition “Cincinnati

pseudonym Possum. It became a sensation when Dr. Demento (Barry Hansen) played it on his nationally syndicated radio show devoted to novelty songs. As he tells me, the group was a show band that played at Holiday Inns along the West Coast and wrote some comedy songs to spice up their act. They sent him a single featuring “Chula Vista,” about a San Diego suburb where people played their “magic twangers,” with “Cockroach” on the other side. “They said to play ‘Chula Vista’ because that’s a hit, and it was about a week or two until I got around to playing the other side and realized that it had national potential because it’s funny and doesn’t refer speciﬁcally to San Diego,” says Hansen. “Cockroach” was featured on 1991’s Dr. Demento 20th Anniversary Collection album, which went gold, and on the 2018 Dr. Demento Covered in Punk collection, in a thrashing, pummeling version by The Misﬁts. An animal long revered here is Martha,

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the last of the passenger pigeons, whose death at the Cincinnati Zoo in 1914 became a cautionary tale about species extinction. She ﬁgures in a short but sweet song, “Martha (Cincinnati, 1914).” At ﬁrst it sounds like something from the vaudeville era, but a sizzling guitar solo and the rueful lyrics clue us that this was recorded in 2015. The artist is the California indie-pop band The Corner Laughers, featuring singer and ukuleleist Karla Kane. “We do tend to write and record a lot of songs with environmental and nature themes, especially birds,” says Kane. “Although it’s a very sad song, one happy aspect for us was that because of it we were able to connect with nature writers and conservationists across the world and made some dear friends.” The fact that there’s been no anthemic, hugely popular Cincinnati song in recent decades is disappointing, especially when you listen to the songs on Richardson’s list. There actually are quite a few gems. Scott Walker’s “The Lights of Cincinnati” is a beautifully sung and orchestrated pop ballad written by two British composers. “Lights” describes a young man leaving here to start life (and love) over, but who is sadly resigned that “The lights of Cincinnati / will be calling me back home.” It was a moderate British hit in 1969 for the singer born in Hamilton, Ohio, who had gone solo after being in UK pop sensations The Walker Brothers. The 1995 song “Cincinnati Motel” by Neal Casal has him sounding like a deeply committed Mick Jagger singing a Bruce Springsteen rocker. Casal, a respected midlevel singer-songwriter originally from New Jersey, sadly took his life in 2019. But those two, and others, have been overlooked in this country and this city as well. When Spinditty.com compiled its list of “100 Best Songs with Names of Cities in the Title” in August, nothing from Cincinnati made the cut. But that doesn’t faze or disappoint Richardson, or cause him to stop researching and championing Cincinnati songs. “I look at the totality of it,” he says. “I’m not worried about the fact Cincinnati hasn’t had a catchy song in recent decades, because I think there is plenty of richness already in the songs that celebrate the city.”

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BACK TO NATURE CONTINUED FROM PAGE 61

BA C K TO N AT UR E How Heritage Acres Memorial Sanctuary came to be the area’s only dedicated natural burial preserve. By Amy Brownlee Photographs by Chris Von Holle 59

part of the earth, which would be perfect for someone like him. He was in that tree now. And he was in the grass.” And natural burial is actually that simple. In fact, simplicity is the point. Modesty, too. Markers are ﬂat to the ground, meant to commingle with the surrounding wildlife. No one personality dominates; there are no obelisks or tombs. Grave ornaments are made of natural materials. To go into a natural cemetery, a person cannot be interred in anything that isn’t biodegradable, including a metal casket and a concrete vault. Many people who opt for

tance and not something that they see or think about,” Gupton says. There is nothing in life so personal as death, and natural burial celebrates that. “This changes the way you think about it. You’re out there and you feel like Yes, there’s this cycle of birth and life and death. And it’s a neverending cycle and you’re part of that. And it challenges some people’s comfort.” Many people sincerely believe that natural burial isn’t legal, that burying a body in the ground without a concrete vault and without embalming is not allowed. In fact, neither Ohio nor Kentucky has state legal requirements for embalming or use of a casket, and both allow burial on private land, subject to local zoning laws. “So people are ecstatic to discover that there actually is an alternative,” Gupton says, “that they don’t personally have to anticipate that occurring with them or their loved ones, and that there might be another way.” The 40-acre parcel of land that makes up Heritage Acres sits just down the road

“NATURAL BURIAL CHALLENGES THE NORMS BECAUSE PEOPLE ARE COMFORTABLE HAVING DEATH AT A DISTANCE,” SAYS BILL GUPTON. “BUT LIFE AND DEATH ARE A CYCLE.” natural burial choose a simple wooden or woven casket, or else a natural cloth shroud. Others choose to be buried directly in the ground. But the main thing that truly disqualiﬁes a person from a natural burial is having been embalmed. “The typical person who inquires about green burial has had some experience in their life with conventional funerals and burials that was in some way unsatisfying or just felt wrong,” Gupton says. “It’s almost universal. If you’re over a certain age in America, you’ve experienced a conventional burial and funeral process. For a lot of people, that just doesn’t work for them.” Still, people are unsure of something so different from what they’ve always known. We’ve become so familiar with conventional burial practices that we may struggle to imagine anything else. “It challenges the norms because people are comfortable having death at a dis-

from Woodland Mound Park in Anderson Township. It isn’t called a cemetery, but a “memorial sanctuary.” “ There is a sense both of spirituality and of respite and retreat from the world and its cares,” says Gupton. “The word was very intentional and very appealing, but I can hardly take credit for coming up with it. One of the places we have modeled ourselves after is called Carolina Memorial Sanctuary, in Asheville, North Carolina. It’s actually owned and operated by a Buddhist group.” GUPTON’S SUDDEN INSIGHT ABOUT natural burials took place alongside Thoreau’s grave, but it was punctuated by his own experience with death and mourning. “It was not terribly long after I had buried my own father in the current, conventional American way, which was not at all like what I had imagined happened for Thoreau,” he says. “There was a disconnect be-

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tween how we do things, what the custom is now in our country for burials and how things used to be, and how things always were in human history.” Gupton began to research the philosophies and practices around natural burial and came to realize that it dovetailed perfectly with his own worldview. “Unitarian Universalists are inspired by nature and the environment,” he explains. “They find the divine in nature and the environment, among other places. And so there tends to be an open-mindedness toward death and dying and other possibilities.” Personally, too, Gupton wanted something different for his own final resting place. He found that there was no dedicated natural burial site in Cincinnati. So he set out to build one. “That’s why Heritage is here,” he says. “This has been a very long process, and it’s been a lot of work. And if there had already been an option in Cincinnati, I wouldn’t have had to do that. But I did. Not just altruistically for the Cincinnati region, but for me and my family.” Connie Booth knew that Gupton and the other Heritage Acres founders were looking for land. She and her husband Bob attended Heritage Universalist Unitarian and were part of the group dedicated to building a natural cemetery—the “Founders’ Circle.” Connie was dying and felt an urgent need to see the project through. Her nurse overheard her conversation about it and told her about a property that she saw for sale on Locust Corner Road. That parcel would become Heritage Acres Memorial Sanctuary. Says Gupton about the search, “the land needed to be flat enough [a challenge in Cincinnati], close into town, and affordable.” Then there were the intangibles, as he describes them: “There had to be a sort of feel or spirituality of that property that just called and felt right. And we need to have a sympatico relationship with the owners. And that happened.” The land was part of a working farm that had been in the same family for three generations. Janet Burdsall still lives there, and it was her grandfather who started the farm in the late 19th century. She and her three sisters grew up wandering the fields and forest, tracking through the creek, and sledding down the hillsides. Her fa-

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BACK TO NATURE ther, who was born there, raised cattle and chickens and farmed ﬁelds of soybeans, wheat, corn, and tobacco. “The township wanted this land to be developed into a big subdivision,” says Burdsall. “We weren’t in it for the money

ventional burial practices create a tremendous environmental burden, using millions of tons of concrete and steel, not to mention the mowing, fertilizing, and watering required to keep lawns bright green and perfectly manicured. This reality, above

“I GREW UP THERE,” SAYS LANDOWNER JANET BURDSALL. “TO SEE IT CONTINUE AND BE OPEN AND FREE FOR PEOPLE TO ENJOY REALLY MAKES MY HEART SMILE.” and didn’t want to sell to the highest bidder. I grew up there. To see it continue and be beautiful and open and free for people to enjoy that really makes my heart smile. Let people appreciate the land like my parents loved and like we girls loved.” NATURAL BURIAL IS AN ECOLOGICAL philosophy as much as a spiritual one. Con-

and beyond any spiritual gesture, is what draws many to natural burial. Along with tangible and intangible requirements, Gupton was also looking for land that needed saving, saying, “it needed to be a piece of land that was likely to become a development or a subdivision in the near future.” True to form, that place would also be a nature preserve, committed to in-

habiting a place that had long been cleared for farming or development and bringing back its native species of wildlife. Rather than overtaking nature, the graves, the people, and the natural world would coexist. At a stroke, Gupton and the Heritage Acres “Founders’ Circle” would create an option for natural burial in Cincinnati along with conserving a piece of at-risk land. The management team at Heritage Acres, led by Land Steward Patrick Sanders, mows walkways, builds paths, constructs trail systems through the woods, and removes invasive species. They’re also planning reforestation efforts to reintroduce native species of trees, shrubs, and wildflowers. Sanders, who is Gupton’s son, studied ecological engineering at Ohio State University and brings his knowledge of sustainable permaculture to Heritage Acres. “First, we want to increase the beauty of the area and increase biodiversity of ﬂora and fauna and create habitats,” he says. “We hope to have many

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visitors, not just people who would like to be buried there.” Sanders’s long-term plans include securing a grant for a sustainable energy program, along with increasing the forested area of the property. He’s planning to plant more than 300 native trees this year, including hardwoods like black walnut and catalpa and softwoods like elderberry, redbud, dogwood, and hazelnut. “It should look as if it was there naturally, without us intervening,” he says. “If we were to, say, clear-cut an area and then plant nonnative species, then that just feels wrong because we’ve created an empty space. We try to make the experience as natural and sustainable as possible.” Heritage Acres looks nothing like a cemetery. It’s open meadow ﬁlled with grass and wildﬂowers, surrounded by forest. Gupton takes people on tours, some just to look around and some to make a decided plan to purchase burial rights. “At some point they stop walking,” he says. “They get a feel for a

spot and they say, This is it.” They’ll place a large rock down to mark the spot, or a stick, and Gupton will record the location with a GPS pin. Is he concerned with efficiency of space? “Oh, Lord no,” he says. “That’s opposite to our ethos.” Anyway, there’s room there for hundreds, maybe thousands, of people. Burials take place in the prairie; while cremated remains have been interred, they haven’t buried a body yet. Ashes can be buried in certain parts of the woods as well, and Gupton and his team are working to create a “scatter garden.” When they do bury a body, they likely won’t use a machine to dig the grave, but will hand-dig it with shovels and picks. When Gupton closed on the property for Heritage Acres in October 2019, there were no banks involved; all the money to purchase the property came through private donations and some small grants. At press time, Heritage Acres had already reserved burial rights for more than 60 sites.

DESPITE CONNIE BOOTH’S WORK TO make Heritage Acres a reality, when she died on February 5, 2019, it was not yet complete. So her family had her body cremated (along with her casket) and waited. But she can add a few of her own words to this story: In June 2008, nine years before her terminal diagnosis, Booth gave an interview to Cincinnati Magazine about her garden. Her voice illustrates her philosophy about the perennial cycle of plants, how a dormant thing can still hold the essence of life. “Something I’m very curious about is the consciousness of plants,” she said. “I’ve often wondered at what point their lives are truly over.” Booth was ever a “prairie woman,” as she called herself, despite making her life in a river valley. And you’ll ﬁnd her small stone marker in the Heritage Acres meadow among the goldenrod and milkweed. Her ashes were the ﬁrst to be interred there.

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POUR ME OUT Ivory House’s bouillabaisse, with mussels, shrimp, snapper, scallop, and saffron broth.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JEREMY KRAMER

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DINING OUT

WEST SIDE STORY

IVORY HOUSE BRINGS ELEGANT COMFORT FOOD TO WESTWOOD.

—A K S H AY A H U J A

LTHOUGH THE RESTAURANT HAS BEEN OPEN ONLY A FEW MONTHS, IVORY House feels like it pays homage to an earlier time. The name refers to James N. Gamble, son of the founder of Procter & Gamble, inventor of Ivory Soap, and the last mayor of the Village of Westwood before it was absorbed into the city. Beﬁtting the name, the restaurant has a classic atmosphere—from the white baby grand piano near the gleaming bar to the framed black-andwhite photographs that date back to the late 19th century. There is a polish and formality at Ivory House that’s uncommon in new restaurants. Frank Eversole, one of the owners, freely admits that he didn’t want things like exposed ceilings and reclaimed wood. “I wanted more ﬁnish,” he tells me. It’s the right approach for a neighborhood that prides itself on tradition and continuity, and a similar ethos is on display in the food. In a telling detail, Eversole mentions that one of the more unusual dishes I tasted—a scallop crudo placed on a pungent kim chee made of collard greens and carrots—would be left off the fall menu, while more steak options were being added after diners asked for them. This sense of connection is apparent in everything Ivory House does. Eversole and his partner, Rick Pouliot, are residential home developers on the west side, and they decided to create the restaurant because they felt that area residents were missing a place like this. When I spoke with a server about how hard it must be to run a new restaurant during the pandemic, she said they were lucky because the neighborhood has been so supportive. Ivory House’s motto is “Familiar Food, Elevated,” and to demonstrate what they mean and the extent 8 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

FYI

Ivory House 2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 389-0175, ivoryhousecincy.com Hours Please call ahead for hours and services. Prices $7 (side salad)–$74 (bonein rib eye) Credit Cards All major The Takeaway They say it best themselves, and they deliver: Familiar food, elevated.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEREMY KRAMER

HOUSE OF BLUES (From left) The bar, with a view of the dining room; pork belly and tenderloin, with mushrooms, heirloom grits, and burnt grapefruit hot sauce; apple pie, served with buttermilk gelato; Executive Chef Rob Scannell.

to which they succeed, I can sing the praises of one of the humblest of dishes: the potato salad. It isn’t even on the menu on its own, but comes on the side of the Wagyu Frisco melt and other sandwiches. Instead of being boiled to softness, the potatoes have retained a roasted, smoky quality and keep a nice firm bite even when partially mashed; they haven’t been creamed or mayonnaised to death and are lively with pops of whole mustard seeds and crunchy little bits of raw celery. You might say, Come on, it’s pretty easy to make potato salad, but many things have to go right before a potato salad becomes as good as this one is. Ivory House’s menu generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish flavors, but simply pays attention to enough little things to make the results unusually good. The Wagyu Frisco, after all, is basically a cheeseburger, but the exceptional tomme from Urban Stead gives it that extra something. The cocktails are things you’ve probably seen before, but everything we had—from the bourbon rhubarb sour to the Queen City’s Bees Knees—had an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like a rhubarb honey syrup or the raspberry shrub. Even when an ingredient seems out of left field, like the burnt rosemary and pine nut puree on the carpaccio or the burnt grapefruit hot sauce on the pork belly and tenderloin, it never tastes as unusual as it sounds. The carpaccio has a perfect nutty vinaigrette, and the hot sauce is just a hint of sweet citrusy spice that melts into the grits—a softly intriguing element rather than a slap in the face. Throughout the menu, the flavors are subtle and lower register

without ever being bland. This aesthetic of carefully made classics is the perfect mindset for brunch, and Ivory House has one of the city’s best. From the pickle-y green hollandaise in the Green Benedictine to the delicious French toast (it’s actually a sliced and griddled bread pudding), everything we had was exceptional. The Cincinnati hash created a kind of regional super-dish by combining goetta, Cincinnati chili, potatoes, and an egg. Executive Chef Rob Scannell, who developed the menu with the former Executive Chef Dana Adkins, uses his own recipe for the chili, which is the dominant flavor in the hash, and it has wonderful zip and balance. Ivory House also has a tier of more expensive dishes, like the bouillabaisse and house filet. As good as some of these are, the restaurant’s wheelhouse at the moment is the mid-price items: the brunch offerings, sandwiches like the Wagyu and salmon BLT, and smaller plates like the smoked carpaccio and collard green Caesar with its nice cornbread croutons. We ate our meals out on the small enclosed porch. With cold weather arriving and the pandemic stretching on, Ivory House plans to heat the space through the winter, and has since added dividers to the dining room inside, so that people can safely enjoy the space. Even during these difficult pandemic months, Eversole says he’s noticed that diners have been staying for a while at the restaurant, often for three hours. With so much else being cut out of our lives—concerts, movies, sporting events—people seem to be cherishing the things that remain, the things that provide a respite from life under lockdown, whether a walk in the woods or an evening by the firepit. One escape that remains is a good meal at a truly nice neighborhood restaurant. D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 8 7

TABLESIDE WITH...

FINE DIVING

DORA CHENG

WORD OF MOUTH ABOUT Cheng’s handmade wonton dumplings with homestyle Cantonese flavors spread quick. Just a month into her Findlay Kitchen pop-up, Yee Mama, her orders had doubled. How did you get started with this? I grew up eating Cantonese food. Two years ago I moved to Cincinnati for my day job. It’s really hard to find Cantonese food here...it’s more Sichuan style. Cantonese food is sweet and savory, a balance of flavor. What’s the difference between your wontons and the other Asian dumplings? There are many types: Chinese style, Japanese style, Korean style. Wonton is a Hong Kong food. You never really pan fry them. You either boil them or [deep] fry them. They’re really light and delicate.

Old Soul THIS IS THE STORY OF A RETRO MARRIAGE AT THE CORNER OF 12TH AND SYCAMORE. The 65-year-old stainless-steel diner was dragged there and opened in 2001. The other half of this couple, the original Sugar n’ Spice restaurant, opened in 1941 and still thrives on Reading Road in Paddock Hills. So now a legendary place is newly married with a vintage space. Open for breakfast and lunch, there’s nothing surprising on the menu here. Even the more creative dishes have a retro feel, like the BLT Salad (sinful while pretending to be saintly), the Cuddlin’ Puppy (a hot dog wrapped in bacon with cheese and relish on buttered Texas Toast), and the Not So Reuben Reuben (that adds roasted turkey and goetta, making it a monster of a sandwich). There are stacks of wispy-thin hotcakes, the big-as-yourhead omelettes, and sizzling burgers. Fortunately the Sugar n’ Spice Diner is not charging downtown prices, and you can already see the throwback tab totals are helping attract an appreciative crowd of Over-the-Rhine locals. I still recall the thrill I had as a kid going to the original Sugar n’ Spice and delight to think the Sycamore location gives neighborhood kids that same joy. And every kid, no matter what age, gets a duck. That’s right, your choice of collectible plastic retro Sugar n’ Spice Diner, ducks. And to ﬁt with these COVID times they’re freshly sanitized 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, before you take your pick. (Reservations are currently available, too.) (513) 762-0390, May the happy couple grow old together. — J . K E V I N W O L F E eatsugarnspice.com 8 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

Where does “Yee Mama” come from? In Cantonese you call your aunt yee ma, but because [my aunt] took care of me a lot and I’m really close with her I call her yee mama— “mama” means “mom,” so I like the double meaning. The funny thing is my Cantonese name has “yee” in it— Chiuyee Cheng. It all came together. Do you use family recipes? It’s mostly my own style. The shrimp and pork one is traditional. But for other ﬂavor combinations, I get the inspiration from...other Asian food that I like. How can people order your wontons? The web shop goes live on Sunday at noon, so you place an order and you pick it up on Wednesday at Findlay Kitchen. — K A I L E I G H P E Y T O N Yee Mama, yeemama.square.site

PH OTO G R A PH BY DY L A N BAU ER / ILLUSTR ATIO N BY C H R I S DA N G E R

Send the gift of great food! Visit us at shop.dorothylane.com Delight your friends and family with our world famous Killer Brownie®. While you’re at it, be sure to check out our hearth-baked Artisan Breads, spiral-sliced Heavenly Ham®, and curation of gourmet groceries and cheeses. For more inspiration, browse our superb selection of gourmet food gifts.

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TAKE FIVE

Off the Hook A rotating option of either scallops, king salmon (wild), or Ora king salmon (ocean farmed) over carrots, fennel, lentils, and pickled ramps in an heirloom tomato sauce. Bouquet, 519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetrestaurant.com

Maine Style Roll A quarter-pound of Maine lobster with chilled lemon mayo on a soft and squishy roll. Court Street Lobster Bar, 28 W. Court St., downtown, (513) 246-0184, courtstreetlobsterbar.com

Paella Valenciana A 10-inch paella pan bursting with clams, chicken, chorizo, gulf shrimp, mussels, and octopus over Calasparra saffron rice. Mita’s*, 501 Race St., downtown, (513) 4216482, mitas.com

Aunt Sally’s Shrimp A staff favorite featuring pan-seared lemongrass shrimp over a bed of smoked cheddar grits, ﬁnished with a coconut chile gravy. Boomtown Biscuits & Whiskey, 1201 Broadway Ave., Pendleton, (513) 3812666, boomtownbiscuits andwhiskey.com

Moby Dick A blackened whitefish filet with bibb lettuce, roasted tomato, red cabbage slaw, and a sriracha lime aioli on a Sixteen Bricks challah bun. Tela*, 1212 Springfield Pke., Wyoming, (513) 821-8352, telabarand kitchen.com

FRESH CATCH

f you’re a seafood or ﬁsh lover, it’s a good idea to know where these products come from, and, lucky for us, several local restaurants have made it easy for you by committing to seasonal, sustainable options. Be sure to call ahead or consult the current menu, as this group of fresh and saltwater do-gooders are always buying what’s in season so as not to damage our fragile marine and aquatic habitats. Beyond this, consumer guides published by Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch provide great advice on what to eat, when, in each state. — C A R R I E B L A C K M O R E S M I T H I

*All ﬁsh and seafood on this restaurant’s menu is sustainably sourced.

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PH OTO G R A PH BY C H RI S VO N H O LLE / ILLU S TR ATI O N S BY R E B ECC A G I B B O N

SNACK TIME

EIS EIS BABY BEFORE THE pandemic rocked the restaurant industry, Tom Von Den Benken and his family toyed with the idea of opening a traditional café. In June, they switched gears and started planning for a walk-up coffee shop instead; by mid-September they opened Eishaus, serving coffee drinks, light bites, and their specialty, spaghetti eis—ice cream that’s squeezed through an extrusion device to resemble spaghetti noodles. It’s inspired by the family’s many trips to visit relatives in northwestern Germany, where dessert parlors squeeze gelato through a potato ricer to give it a noodle-like form. To “Americanize” its offerings, Eishaus features dairy and vegan vanilla ice cream smothered in special sauces and toppings. We enjoyed the spaghetti frikadelle topped with strawberry sauce (resembling marinara), white chocolate shavings (parmesan cheese), two brownies (meatballs), and a sugar wafer (breadstick). The real winner, though, is their take on the Cincinnati chili 3-way: a base of vanilla spaghetti eis layered with chocolate sauce, Rice Krispies, yellow chocolate shavings, and mini Nilla Wafers. —KATIE COBURN Eishaus, 117 Park Place, Covington, eishauseats.com

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DINING GUIDE CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S

dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit. To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

AMERICAN

Rd., Terrace Park, (513) 831-5678, thebirchtp.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. DS. $

BRONTË BISTRO

You might think this is a lunch-only spot where you can nosh on a chicken salad sandwich after browsing next door at Joseph-Beth Booksellers. But this Norwood eatery feels welcoming after work, too. The dinner menu features entrées beyond the rotating soup and quiche roster that’s popular at noon. Fried chicken? Check. Quesadillas and other starters? Yep. An assortment of burgers? Present, including turkey and veggie versions. Casual food rules the day but the surprise is Brontë Bistro’s lineup of adult beverages, which elevates the place above a basic bookstore coffeeshop. The regular drinks menu includes such mainstays as Hemingway’s Daiquiri, a tribute to the author who drank them (often to excess). 2692 Madison Rd., Norwood, (513) 396-8970, josephbeth.com/bronte. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $

If you haven’t had a plate of Shawn McCoy’s design set in front of you, it’s about time. Many of the menu’s dishes show his knack for the plate as a palette. A trio of stout day boat diver scallops—exquisitely golden from pan searing—perch atop individual beds of uniformly diced butternut ILLUSTR ATIO N BY EMI VILL AVICENCIO

March 2020

Ash, (513) 794-1610, browndogcafe.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Fri, brunch and dinner Sat, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $$

CABANA ON THE RIVER

NO FISH OUT OF WATER

Restaurateur Chanaka De Lanerolle has opened his second concept in 2020: upscale bistro Oakley Fish House. A spiritual successor to his Mt. Adams Fish House, which sold in 2011, the menu brings back favorites like the Fish House chowder, but De Lanerolle offers plenty of new items as well. The restaurant occupies the former Habit’s Cafe space, which has been reimagined to create sociallydistanced seating for 115. oakleyﬁsh

house.com

BROWN DOG CAFÉ

Named a

Top 10 Best Restaurant

squash, fragments of boar bacon, and shavings of Brussels sprout. The eye for detail and contrasts of colors and textures belongs to someone who cares for food. 1000 Summit Place, Blue

THE BIRCH

On any given evening, guests nibble at spicy hummus served with French breakfast radishes and pita bread while sipping slightly spumante glasses of Spanish Txakolina. And while the dinner menu reads strictly casual at first glance— soups, salads, and sandwiches—the preparation and quality is anything but. An endive salad with candied walnuts, Swiss cheese, crispy bacon lardons, and an apple vinaigrette surpassed many versions of the French bistro classic. And both the Brussels sprouts and Sicilian cauliflower sides refused to play merely supporting roles. Both were sensational studies in the balance of sweet, spicy, and acidic flavors. 702 Indian Hill

KEY: No checks unless specified. AE American Express, DC Diners Club DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V $ = Under $15 $$$ = Up to $49 $$ = Up to $30 $$$$ = $50 and up

Like a big outdoor picnic with a view of the serene hills of Kentucky and the Ohio River rolling by, this is one of those places west-siders would rather the rest of Cincinnati didn’t know about. Its annual debut in late spring marks the official beginning of summer for many. People ﬂock to the Cabana for good food prepared well: grilled mahi-mahi sandwiches, pork barbecue, steak on a stick, Angus beef burgers, Italian and steak hoagies, white chicken chili, and interesting salads. While some of the fare is familiar pub grub, nothing is sub-standard. Even potato chips are made in-house and seasoned with Cajun spices. 7445 Forbes Rd., Sayler Park, (513) 941-7442, cabanaontheriver.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $

COPPIN’S

With wine on tap and an extensive local beer list, Coppin’s is an ideal place to meet for drinks. In addition to plenty of Kentucky bourbon, much of the produce, meat, and cheese comes from local growers and producers. House-cured meat and cheese from Kenny’s Farmhouse and cheese from Urban Stead populate the “Artisan Cheese and Charcuterie Board,” which dresses up the main attractions with honey, dijon mustard, house pickles, and Sixteen Bricks grilled sourdough. The mussels—made with seasonally rotating sauces and chorizo from Napoleon Ridge Farms in Gallatin County—were served with a peppery tomato sauce, perfect for sopping up with bread. The seven-ounce Sakura Farms Wagyu rib eye with wild mushrooms, roasted parsnip, and beef jus is a must have. Or try the striped bass with grape farro roasted broccolini and mussel cream sauce. 638 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 905-6600, hotelcovington. com/dining/coppins. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

95 98 98 98 101 105 106 106 107 107 107 110 110 110 111 111

AMERICAN BARBECUE CAJUN/CARIBBEAN CHINESE ECLECTIC FRENCH INDIAN ITALIAN JAPANESE KOREAN MEDITERRANEAN MEXICAN SEAFOOD STEAKS THAI VIETNAMESE

COZY’S CAFÉ & PUB

On a visit to England, Jan Collins discovered the “cozy” atmosphere of London restaurants built in historic houses. She brought that warm, comfortable feeling back to the United States in opening Cozy’s. Though the atmosphere in the restaurant is reminiscent of Collins’s London travels, the food remains proudly American. The produce in virtually every dish is fresh, seasonal, and flavorful. The 12-hour pork shank stands out with its buttery grits and root vegetable hash, along with a portion of tender meat. And when it comes down to the classics, from the biscuits that open the meal to carrot cake at the end, Cozy’s does it right. 6440 Cincinnati Dayton Rd., Liberty Twp., (513) 644-9364, cozyscafeandpub.com. Dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. $$$

THE EAGLE OTR

The revamped post office at 13th and Vine feels cozy but not claustrophobic, and it has distinguished itself with its stellar fried chicken. Even the white meat was pull-apart steamy, with just enough peppery batter to pack a piquant punch. Diners can order by the quarter, half, or whole bird—but whatever you do, don’t skimp on the sides. Bacon adds savory mystery to crisp corn, green beans, and edamame (not limas) in the succotash, and the crock of mac and cheese has the perfect proportion of sauce, noodle, and crumb topping. The Eagle OTR seems deceptively simple on the surface, but behind that simplicity is a secret recipe built on deep thought, skill, and love. 1342 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 8025007. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

EMBERS

The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asianinspired (crabcakes); fashionable ingredients are name-checked (micro-greens and truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; Kobe beef on sushi rolls sidles up to steaks of cornfed prime; non-steak entrées (Chilean sea bass or seared scallops with mushroom risotto and

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broccolini) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party. 8170 Montgomery Rd., Madeira, (513) 984-8090, embersrestaurant.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$$$

GREYHOUND TAVERN Back in the streetcar days, this roughly 100-year-old roadhouse was at the end of the Dixie Highway line, where the cars turned around to head north. The place was called the Dixie Tea Room then, and they served ice cream. The fried chicken came along in the 1930s, and they’re still dishing it up today. Families and regulars alike pile in on Mondays and Tuesdays for the fried chicken dinner. While the juicy (never greasy) chicken with its lightly seasoned, crisp coating is the star, the side dishes—homemade biscuits, cole slaw, green beans, mashed potatoes, and gravy—will make you ask for seconds. Call ahead no matter what night you choose: There’s bound to be a crowd. Not in the mood for chicken? Choose from steaks, seafood, sandwiches, and comfort food options that include meatloaf and a Kentucky Hot Brown. Or just try the onion rings. You’ll wonder where onions that big come from. 2500 Dixie Highway, Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3767, greyhoundtavern.com. Lunch and dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

MR. GENE’S DOGHOUSE Cumminsville is home to arguably the best hot chili cheese mett and chocolate malt in Greater Cincinnati. A family owned business that began as a simple hot dog stand more than 50 years ago, Mr. Gene’s still attracts lines of loyal customers at its windows. Can’t stand the heat? Order the mild chili mett—more ﬂavor, fewer BTUs. And if you still haven’t embraced Cincinnati-style coneys, try the Chicago-style hot dog with pickles, onions, relish, mustard, tomato, and celery salt; a barbecue sandwich; or wings (a sign proclaims “So hot they make the devil sweat”). Although the chocolate malt is the biggest seller, we love the $3.25 pineapple shake, made with real pineapple. 3703 Beekman St., South Cumminsville, (513) 5417636, mrgenesdoghouse.com. Open Feb–Dec for lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $

GOOSE & ELDER The third restaurant from chef Jose Salazar, Goose & Elder is a more everyday kind of joint compared to his others. The prices are lower, and most of the dishes, from burgers to grits, are familiar. Salazar’s menus have always hinted that the chef had a fondness for, well, junk food. But junk food is only junk if it is made thoughtlessly. Everything here is made with little twists, like the cuminspiced potato chips and delicate ribbons of housemade cucumber pickles with a sweet rice wine vinegar. Even the fries, crinkle cut and served with “goose sauce,” a mildly spiced mayonnaise, are wonderfully addictive. The restaurant demonstrates that what we now consider “fast food” can be awfully good if someone makes it the old-fashioned, slow way. 1800 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 579-8400, gooseandelder.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

THE NATIONAL EXEMPLAR The classics are here—prime rib with horseradish and au jus; liver and onions; an eight-ounce ﬁlet with bernaise— plus some new favorites, including short rib pasta. Or have breakfast, English-style: fried eggs, bacon, sausage, stewed beans, roasted tomatoes, and buttered toast. The dinner menu also features burgers, risotto, pasta, seafood, and plenty more lighter options. 6880 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 271-2103, nationalexemplar.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

THE NORTHSTAR CAFÉ In Northstar’s ﬁrst outpost beyond the Greater Columbus area, the space itself reﬂects the ethos of the food: warm and comfortable, but still modern and fresh. The dinner and cocktail menus are fab, as is the large bar. But breakfast is worth waking up early for. Take the mushroom frittata, made with meaty mushrooms, caramelized sweet onions, and Gruyère. The portions are no joke—that frittata comes with breakfast potatoes and a dense, perfectly

crumbly-but-moist housemade biscuit—yet it doesn’t feel gluttonous or excessive. In large part that’s due to the freshness (e.g., the sausage made in-house daily) and the abundance of healthy options. One of our favorites: the shooting star juice, a balanced blend of carrot, ginger, orange, and lemon. 7610 Sloan Way, Liberty Township, (513) 759-0033, thenorthstarcafe.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

OTTO’S Chef/owner Paul Weckman opened Otto’s, named after his father-in-law, with $300 worth of food and one employee—himself. Weckman’s food is soothing, satisfying, and occasionally, too much of a good thing. His tomato pie is beloved by lunch customers: Vine-ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, and chopped green onions packed into a homemade pie shell, topped with a cheddar cheese spread, and baked until bubbly. Weckman’s straightforward preparations are best. The shrimp and grits with sauteed shrimp spinach, mushrooms, Cajun beurre blanc atop a fried grit cake, short ribs braised in red wine and herbs, served over mashed potatoes with green beans and caramelized baby carrots that will bring you the comfort of a home-cooked meal. This is, at its heart, a neighborhood restaurant, a place with its own large, quirky family. 521 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-6678, ottosonmain.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

QUATMAN CAFÉ The quintessential neighborhood dive, Quatman’s sits in the shadow of the Our Lady of the Holy Spirit Center, serving up a classic bar burger. Look elsewhere if you like your burger with exotic toppings: This halfpound of grilled beef is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle. Sometimes cheese. The no-frills theme is straightforward and appealing. A menu of standard sandwich fare and smooth mock turtle soup; beer on tap or soda in cans (no wine or liquor); and checkered tablecloths, serving baskets, and plenty of kitsch is served daily. Peppered with regulars, families, political discussions, and the occasional fool, Quatman’s is far from fancy. But it is fun, fast, and delicious. 2434 Quatman Ave., Norwood, (513) 731-4370, quatman cafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $

RED FEATHER KITCHEN Historically peasant-grade cuts of meat get the full Pygmalion treatment at Red Feather in Oakley, where there’s deep respect for the time and tending necessary to bring a short rib, pork chop, or hanger steak to its full potential. After a quick sear to lock in juices, the steak takes a turn in the wood-ﬁred oven. While primal cuts play a leading role, the supporting cast is just as captivating. The hot snap of fresh ginger in the carrot soup was especially warming on a winter evening and the crispy skin on the Verlasso salmon acts as the foil to the plump, rich ﬂesh. Service here only improves the experience. 3200 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 407-3631, redfeatherkitchen.com. Dinner Tues– Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

RED ROOST TAVERN At its best, Red Roost Tavern—located in the Hyatt Regency, downtown—meets its singular challenge with verve: offering a locally sourced sensibility to an increasingly demanding dining public while introducing out-of-town guests to unique Cincinnati foods. Take the goetta, rich pork capturing the earthiness of the steel-cut oats, served as a hash with sweet potatoes and poached eggs. The seasoning added a restrained, almost mysterious hint of black pepper. But the kitchen’s talent seems straightjacketed. Chefs thrive on instincts not covered by the ﬁve senses; restaurants thrive by taking careful risks. Red Roost seems to be struggling to ﬁnd its third eye, and sometimes the entrées don’t live up to their ambitions. 151 W. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 354-4025.

erbraten, Black Angus cheeseburgers, fried whiteﬁsh on rye, hot bacon slaw, lemon meringue pie (homemade, of course), and the best Saratoga chips this side of Saratoga. 3853 Race Rd., Bridgetown, (513) 574-0222, ronsroost. net. Breakfast Sun, lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

THE SCHOOLHOUSE RESTAURANT An old flag stands in one corner and pictures of Abe Lincoln and the first George W. hang on the wall of this Civil War–era schoolhouse. The daily menu of familiar Midwestern comfort fare is written in letter-perfect cursive on the original chalkboard. Once you order from a woman who bears an uncanny resemblance to your high school lunch lady, the elevated lazy Susan in the center of the table begins to fill up with individual bowls and baskets of corn bread, slaw, salad, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, and vegetables. The deal here is quantity. More mashed potatoes with your fried chicken? More corn bread with your baked ham? You don’t even have to raise your hand. 8031 Glendale-Milford Rd., Camp Dennison, (513) 831-5753, theschoolhousecincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs & Fri, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC, DS. $

SUGAR N’ SPICE This Paddock Hills diner, with a second location in Overthe-Rhine, has been dishing up wispy-thin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals. Breakfast and lunch offerings mix oldhat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line. 4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills; 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine; (513) 242-3521, eatsugarnspice.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $

SYMPHONY HOTEL & RESTAURANT Tucked into a West 14th Street Italianate directly around the corner from Music Hall, this place feels like a private dinner club. There’s a preferred by-reservation policy. Check the web site for the weekend’s five-course menu, a slate of “new American” dishes that changes monthly. You can see the reliance on local produce in the spring vegetable barley soup. Salads are interesting without being busy, and the sorbets are served as the third course palate cleanser. Main courses of almond-crusted mahimahi, flat-iron steak, and a vegetable lasagna hit all the right notes, and you can end with a sweet flourish if you choose the chocolate croissant bread pudding. 210 W. 14th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-3353, symphonyhotel. com. Dinner Thurs–Sun, brunch Sun. $$

TANO BISTRO Gaetano Williams’s Loveland bistro is comfortable, with reasonably priced food and amenable service. The menu is tidy—25 or so dishes divided between appetizers, salads, and entrées, plus two or three specials—its flavor profile partially influenced by a childhood growing up in a third generation Italian family. Most of Tano Bistro’s main courses lean toward the comfortable side of American. For instance, Williams serves a stuffed salmon and potato-crusted chicken. The simple roast chicken is also worth a trip to Loveland, sweetly moist beneath its crisp bronze skin. 204 W. Loveland Ave., Loveland, (513) 683-8266, foodby tano.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Fri, brunch and dinner Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

TELA BAR + KITCHEN

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC,DS. $$$

Classically conceived but casually executed comfort food, including mini-Monte Cristo sandwiches with tangy house-made pimento cheese stuffed into sourdough bread and fried crisp, mac and cheese topped with a Mr. Pibb–braised pulled short rib, and steak and potatoes. Servers are slightly scattered, yet enthusiastic and friendly, with a good grasp of the beverage program.

RON’S ROOST

1212 Springﬁeld Pke., Wyoming, (513) 821-8352, telabarandkitchen.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

They stake their reputation on their fried chicken, serving 10,000 pieces weekly. It takes a few minutes, since each batch is made to order. Ron’s also serves chicken 18 other ways, including chicken and waffles and chicken livers in gravy. It’s all about the chicken here, but that’s not all they have. The menu is ﬁve solid pages of stuff good enough to be called specialties: Oktoberfest sau-

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TRIO Trio is nothing if not a crowd pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or ﬁlet mignon (with side salad, garlic mashed potatoes, sauteed swiss chard, and mushroom jus), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of

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MAIN WHERE REVIEW TO EAT NOW

view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple margherita pizza with roma tomatoes, basil, Parmesan, and provolone delivered a ﬁne balance of crunchy crust, sharp cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet. 7565 Kenwood Rd., Kenwood, (513) 984-1905, triobistro.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC. $$$

TUCKER’S RESTAURANT Joe Tucker has done a marvelous job of running a de facto Swiss Embassy in the volatile heart of Over-the-Rhine. Joe is possibly Cincinnati’s premiere fry cook. He has the ability to make a turkey club magical, where you have to stop after each bite and let your mouth recover from the overwhelming conjugality of yum. Until you’ve tried it, you just wouldn’t think that a curried tuna salad sandwich could be a mystical experience. Tucker’s is surprisingly vegetarian friendly too, with Joe’s meatless twists on greasy-spoon standards. Nice to see that the magic the Tucker family has practiced at this place for more than 70 years is strong enough to weather the worst and that Tucker’s remains the friendliest little place on Vine. 1637 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 954-8920. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun. V, MC. $

picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bringyour-own, and the barbecue is bona ﬁde. 3313 Riverside

on the menu). You’ll also ﬁnd a roundup of oyster, shrimp, and catﬁsh Po’Boys, as well as a selection of hardwoodsmoked meats. 3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-

Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

7067, swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $$

PONTIAC BBQ

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU

Dan Wright’s BBQ dream comes to life in a honky-tonkish setting, delivering inexpensive barbecue that draws from multiple traditions—Kansas City, Memphis, and Texas— a few basic sides (bacon-and-pickled-jalapeño-topped white grits and a silky mac-and-cheese), and plenty of bourbon. Snack on fried pickles or smoked wings, then move on to brisket (both fatty and lean), pulled pork, and smoked-on-the-bone short ribs. This is ridiculously highquality comfort food at a friendly price point. 1403 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 579-8500, pontiacbbq.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

WALT’S HITCHING POST A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-ﬁred in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quick-seared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft ﬂesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s house-made tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together. 3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 3602222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ Wildflower Café is not the sort of place that tries to wow anyone with feats of inventiveness. Its formula is simple but satisfying: lots of mostly local meat and produce, a menu that continuously changes with available ingredients, a nice selection of wine and beer, and well-made, homey food. The small, focused menu has a classic American quality (salads, steaks, burgers) with enough surprises to keep things interesting. Many of the dishes are designed with open spaces to be filled with whatever is available in the kitchen that day, an advantage of an unfussy style. You don’t go to Wildflower expecting a certain kind of perfection; you accept that your favorite dish from last time might be made differently tonight, or no longer available. Like the farmhouse that Wildflower occupies, the imperfections are part of the charm. 207 E. Main St., Mason, (513) 492-7514, wildflowergourmetcafe. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

YORK STREET CAFÉ Five blocks from the Newport riverfront, Terry and Betsy Cunningham have created the sort of comfortable, welcoming environment that encourages steady customers. A dependable menu and quirky atmosphere appeal to a broad range of diners, from non-adventurous visiting relatives to non-attentive children. Desserts have always been one of the stars: ﬂourless chocolate hazelnut torte, bittersweet, rich and moist; butter rum pudding that would be equally at home on a picnic table or a ﬁnely dressed Michelin-starred table. 738 York St., Newport, (859) 261-9675, yorkstonline.com. Lunch and dinner Tues– Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BARBECUE ELI’S BBQ Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the MasonDixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short order cook diner-proud. The small nofrills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN BREWRIVER CREOLE More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’ boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on ﬂuffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying ﬂavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line. 4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreole kitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch & lunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $

DEE FELICE CAFÉ To call Dee Felice Café a jazz supper club would be too conventional. The atmosphere is decidedly casual. The music and menu are still true to the original spirit of Emidio Dante DeFelice, a drummer and bandleader who opened the restaurant in 1984 to create a jazz venue that he and his fellow musicians could relax in and enjoy a meal. It made sense to feature cuisine from the birthplace of jazz, New Orleans, and the Cajun and Creole dishes of southern Louisiana still dominate the menu, though there are a few Italian dishes, as well as steaks (the most consistently wellexecuted dishes on the menu) and salads. The joint is most deﬁnitely still jumpin’. 529 Main St., Covington, (859) 2612365, deefelicecafe.com. Dinner Wed–Mon. MCC, DC, DS. $$

SWAMPWATER GRILL At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything

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The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip. 6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, letseat.at/KnottyPine. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

CHINESE AMERASIA A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Pot stickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand-shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, tofu, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodle, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts. 521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121. Lunch Sun–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC. $

CHINESE IMPERIAL INN The chilies-on-steroids cooking here will have you mopping beads of garlic-laced sweat from your brow. The musky, ﬁrecracker-red Mongolian chicken stabilizes somewhere just before nirvana exhaustion, and aggressively pungent shredded pork with dried bean curd leaves your eyes gloriously glistening from its spicy hot scarlet oil. Even an ice cold beer practically evaporates on your tongue. Do not fear: not all the dishes are incendiary. Try the seafood—lobster, Manila clams, Dungeness and blue crabs, whelk, and oysters—prepared with tamer garlicky black bean sauce, or ginger and green onions. The Cantonese wonton soup, nearly as mild as your morning bowl of oatmeal, is as memorable as the feverish stuff. Sliced pork and shrimp are pushed into the steaming bowl of noodles and greens just before serving. Think comforting, grandmotherly tenderness. 11042 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 563-6888, chineseimperialinn.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

HOUSE OF SUN Take a gander at the authentic Chinese section of the menu. There you’ll find a ballet of smoky, spicy sliced conch; thick handmade noodles soaking up rich, nostrilsearing brown sauce; and crispy pork ears arranged like flower petals on the plate (think of fine Italian prosciutto). The popular American-Chinese chicken dishes are there, too, including General Tso, sweet and sour, and sesame chicken. 11955 Lebanon Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-0888, houseofsuncincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. DS, MC, V. $$

ORIENTAL WOK This is the restaurant of your childhood memories: the showy Las Vegas-meets-China decor, the ebulliently comedic host, the chop sueys, chow meins, and crab rangoons

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that have never met a crab. But behind the giant elephant tusk entryway and past the goldfish ponds and fountains is the genuine hospitality and warmth of the Wong family, service worthy of the finest dining establishments, and some very good food that’s easy on the palate. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, sea bass, and halibut steamed, grilled, or flash fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger–green onion sauce that accompanies them. Even the chicken lo mein is good. It may not be provocative, but not everyone wants to eat blazing frogs in a hot pot. 317 Buttermilk

nal flavors.

8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepaciﬁc.kitchen. Lunch and dinner seven days; dim sum Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

RAYMOND’S HONG KONG CAFÉ

Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok.com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$

It has all the elements of your typical neighborhood Chinese restaurant: Strip mall location. General Tso and kung pao chicken. Fortune cookies accompanying the bill. The dragon decoration. But it is the nontraditional aspects of Raymond’s Hong Kong Café that allow it to stand apart. The menu goes beyond standard Chinese fare with dishes that range from Vietnamese (beef noodle soup) to American (crispy Cornish hen). The Portuguese-style baked chicken references Western European inﬂuences on Chinese cuisine with an assemblage of fried rice, peppers, carrots, broccoli, zucchini, and squash all simmering together in a creamy bath of yellow curry sauce. Deciding what to order is a challenge, but at least you won’t be disappointed. 11051 Clay

THE PACIFIC KITCHEN

Dr., Walton, (859) 485-2828. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

The monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Fried Chicken. These slightly bubbly, shatter-crisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang pepper sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful, especially the strips of lightly pickled cucumber. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, origi-

SHANGHAI MAMA’S This 1920s Asian noodle house—complete with dark woodwork and bird cages—offers big bowls of noodle soups, rice bowls, and crunchy, traditional salads. The noodle bowl selections are the most popular, with everything from spicy chicken to Shanghai ribs, shrimp to tofu, and orange duckling to wild mushrooms. Try the Shanghai ﬂatbreads, a “pancake” with different toppings and tangy dipping sauce. You’ll ﬁnd the downtown professional crowd during the day, but come weekend nights Shanghai Mama’s is bright lights big city with after-theater diners, restaurant staff,

and bar patrons socializing and slurping noodle soups until the wee morning hours. 216 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 241-7777, shanghaimamas. com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

SICHUAN BISTRO CHINESE GOURMET Like many Chinese restaurants that cater to both mainstream American and Chinese palates, this strip mall gem uses two menus. The real story here is found in dishes of pungent multilayered ﬂavors that set your mouth ablaze with fermented peppers and fresh chilies and then just as quickly cool it down with the devilish, numbing sensation of hua jiao, Sichuan pepper. Its numbing effect is subtle at ﬁrst: appetizers of cold sliced beef and tripe, as well as slices of pork belly with a profusion of minced garlic, lean toward the hot and sweet; mapo tofu freckled with tiny fermented black beans and scallions, and pork with pickled red peppers and strips of ginger root, progress from sweet to pungent to hot to salty—in that order. Alternated with cooling dishes—nibbles of rice, a verdant mound of baby bok choy stir-fried with a shovelful of garlic, refreshing spinach wilted in ginger sauce, a simply sensational tea-smoked duck—the effect is momentarily tempered. 7888 S. Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-3123, sichuanbistro. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

SUZIE WONG’S ON MADISON A few items on the menu resemble those that were once served at Paciﬁc Moon, such as laub gai and Vietnamese rolls, both variations of lettuce wraps. For the laub gai, browned peppery chicken soong (in Cantonese and Mandarin, referring to meat that is minced) is folded into leaf lettuce

À PLUS TARD!

Jean-Robert de Cavel’s ﬂagship, JeanRobert’s Table, will be closing at the end of 2020, but it’s not saying goodbye. De Cavel is in search of a new home for Table, and hopes to open a new location by the fall of next year. (The building it occupies was sold for redevelopment.) Through the end of month, you can still enjoy this downtown French staple with dishes like the elevated croque monsieur, duck breast with goat cheese grits, and even a few surprises. jeanrobert

table.com

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with stems of fresh cilantro and mint, red Serrano peppers, a squeeze of lime juice, and a drizzle of ďŹ sh sauce. In the Vietnamese roll version, small cigar-sized rolls stuffed with chicken and shrimp are crisp fried and lettuce wrapped in the same manner. The Pan-Asian menu also includes Korean kalbi (tenderiďŹ c beef ribs marinated and glazed in a sweet, dark, sesame soy sauce) and dolsat bibimbap, the hot stone bowl thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a favorite around town. 1544

The hamachi crudo, an old standby on the menu, takes Japanese flavors and gives them new dimensions with grapefruit suprĂŞmes and slivers of shishito pepper. This is food of extraordinary creativity and flair. 114 E. Sixth

ECLECTIC Top 10

St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati.com. Dinner Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

ABIGAIL STREET

Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yipâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark ďŹ n or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 260 items, so youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ďŹ nd a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs. 10736 Reading Rd.,

Most people whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African ďŹ&#x201A;avors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. New offerings like the duck leg conďŹ t, with spicy-sour harissa ďŹ&#x201A;avors, ďŹ rmtender butternut squash, and perfectly made couscous, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior. The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacriďŹ ce the superďŹ cially interesting in favor of the essential. 1214 Vine St.,

Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$

Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tuesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat. MCC, DS. $$

Madison Rd., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-3333, suziewongs. com. Lunch Tuesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat, dinner Tuesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun. MCC, DS. $$

UNCLE YIPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

YAT KA MEIN This noodle house caters to our inner Chinese peasant. Yat Ka Mein offers humble, everyday Cantonese dishes of egg noodles, tasty dumplings packed with shrimp or pork, fresh veggies, and chicken broth. Almost begrudgingly the menu includes popular American-style Chinese dishes, like the ubiquitous sweet and sour chicken, Moo Goo Gai Pan, roast duck, and so forth. But what makes the place unique are less familiar dishes like Dan Dan noodles, a spicy, sweat-inducing blend of garlic, chili peppers, and ground chicken marinated in chili sauce. 2974 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 321-2028, yatkamein.biz. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

Top 10

BOCA

With its grand staircase, chandelier, and floorto-ceiling draperies, Boca has an atmosphere of grandeur and refinement. There is a sense of drama not only in the decor but in everything it serves. In some dishes, there is a painterly sense of contrast and surprise, like violet-derived purple sugar beside the pain de GĂŞnes (French almond cake). In others, there is a dramatic suspense, like the whole egg yolk quivering in the center of the Fassone tartare waiting to be broken. While staying mostly grounded in the fundamentals of Italian and French cuisine, Boca has an air of international sophistication that sets its food apart.

Top 10

BOUQUET RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

Normally diners arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pleased when a restaurant runs out of something. At Bouquet, though, surprise changes to the menu are simply a sign of integrity. Chef-owner Stephen Williams is serious about using seasonal ingredients, and if the ďŹ gs have run out or there is no more chicken from a local farm, so be it. The ďŹ&#x201A;avors at Bouquet are about doing justice to whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s available. Preparations are unfussy, complexity coming from within the vegetables and proteins themselves. A tomato saladâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;wonderfully fresh and vibrant, so you know the tomatoes have just come off a nearby vineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;is dressed with chopped shiso, a crimson herb that tastes like a mysterious combination of mint and cilantro. This determination to make something delicious out of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on hand, to embrace limitations, gives the food at Bouquet a rustic, soulful quality. 519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetrestaurant.com. Dinner Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BRANCH Located in a huge Art Deco building, formerly a bank, Branch has taken this potentially cavernous and impersonal space and made it intimate. Diners might recognize the vibe from this restaurant groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ďŹ rst venture, Northsideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The LittleďŹ eld. The chef, Shoshannah Anderson, cooks in a mode that we would call â&#x20AC;&#x153;international home-style,â&#x20AC;? taking inspiration from the comfort food of many cultures. It maintains a balance between cooking to a higher price point and creating an atmosphere of

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reďŹ nement without losing the informal neighborhood feel. The shrimp and gritsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;served soupy in a big bowl with an addictively sweet-and-sour green tomato marmalade swirled into the creamy gritsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are taken surprising heights. Another notable item is a dish that wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t normally get a mention in a review: the french fries. They demonstrate that food that is usually mindlessly inhaled can be worth savoring if it is made with enough love. 1535 Madison Rd., East Walnut Hills, (513) 221-2702, eatat branch.com. Dinner Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

CHĂ&#x2030; This Walnut Street spot draws on authentic Argentine recipes, including the empanadas. Choose from more than a dozen different crispy, perfectly cinched dough pockets, with ďŹ llings ranging from traditional (a mixture of cumin-spiced beef, egg, and olives) to experimental (mushrooms, feta, green onion, and mozzarella). There are also six different dipping sauces to choose from, but you need not stray from the house chimichurri. It complements practically every item on the menu, but particularly the grilled meats, another Argentinian staple. Marinated beef skewers and sausages are cooked on an open-ďŹ&#x201A;ame grill, imparting welcome bits of bitter char to the juicy meat. 1342 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 345-8838, checincinnati.com. Lunch Tuesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun , dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

a springboard to create something elegant and original. Two dishes get at what makes this place special: biscuits and fried rabbit. Their biscuit, served with tart quince butter, is perfectionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;moist and ďŹ&#x201A;aky, without being coatyour-throat buttery or crumble-to-ash dry. The rabbit is crisp, light, and not at all greasy, with just the right touch of seasoning and a bright biz baz sauce, a cilantro and garlic sauce of Somali origin that tastes like a creamy salsa verde. Brunch offers the same sort of mashup, including salsa verde pork with pickled jalapeĂąo grits made creamy with the yolk of a 75-degree egg and a smoky, spicy, not too salty Bloody Mary. 621 Main St., Covington, (859) 9166719, commonwealthbistro.com. Dinner Tuesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun, Brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

CROWN REPUBLIC GASTROPUB What makes Crown Republic special isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t its handful of outstanding dishes. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the placeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sheer consistency. No single dish is absolutely mind-blowing or completely original, but when almost everything that comes out is genuinely tasty, the service is always friendly and attentive, and (stop the presses!) the bill is quite a bit less than you expected, you sit up and pay attention. The crab and avocado toast, served on grilled bread with lime juice and slivers of pickled Fresno chiles, is a prime example of what makes Crown Republic tick. The cocktails are equally unfussy and good, like the Tipsy Beet, made with vodka, housemade beet shrub, cucumber, mint, and citrus peel. Crown Republic has a mysterious quality that I can only describe as â&#x20AC;&#x153;good energy.â&#x20AC;? 720 Sycamore St., downtown, (513) 246-4272, crgcincy.com. Lunch and dinner Tuesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat. MCC. $$

COMMONWEALTH BISTRO

E+O KITCHEN

Everything from the old jukebox by the entrance to the sepia-toned rabbit-and-pheasant wallpaper exudes an appreciation for the antique. But rather than duplicating old recipes, Covingtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Commonwealth uses history as

The former Beluga space comes alive with a menu that conjoins minimalist Asian with gutsy-cum-earthy Latin. The results are hit-or-miss: while guacamole was pointlessly studded with edamame, the pork belly buns are

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especially tender. Taco plates are a safe bet, with the â&#x20AC;&#x153;solâ&#x20AC;? pastorâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;pineapple coupled with Korean kimchi, bulgogi pork, and cilantroâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;hitting all the right notes. More adventurous palates may opt for the nuanced ramenâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the pork and soy broth teeming with cuts of both pork belly and slow-cooked shoulder, while a superbly poached egg lingers at the edge, awaiting its curtain call. Service is friendly but tends to sputter when it comes to the basics of hospitality. 3520 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 832-1023, eokitchen.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THE LITTLEFIELD Inside a modest 1,500 square-foot space on Spring Grove, just south of Hamilton Avenue, at least 70-odd bourbons behind the bar drive this little restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s philosophy. The menu is meant to be limited, the better to support and celebrate the bottled ďŹ&#x201A;avors up front. There are surprises: a faint hint of curry powder deepens the moody cauliďŹ&#x201A;ower fritters; skewered golf-balls of mild, peppery ground lamb get a faint crust from the ďŹ nal sear. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll also want to order the smoked pork katsu. Panko crusted cutlets of pork, topped with tonkatsu sauce, served with sesame ginger slaw and kewpie mayo. The signature chicken and corn chowder is exactly what you need on a cold winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s day. 3934 Spring Grove Ave., Northside, (513) 386-7570, littleďŹ eldns.com. Lunch Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat, dinner seven days, brunch Sun. V, MC. $

MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN The latest effort from local restaurant juggernaut Thunderdome, owner of the Currito franchise. Order at the counter, then ďŹ nd your own table, and a server will deliver what youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve selected. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chicken tinga, spaghetti pomodoro, a New York Strip steak, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with a satisfying pappardelle with house-made sausage.

Brunch is available all day; try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the satisfying avocado benedict. 525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100, maplewoodkitchenandbar. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

MELT REVIVAL In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and the J.L.R. Burger, a black bean or veggie patty served with cheese, tomato, lettuce and housemade vegan mayo. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken melt: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try one of the halvesies, a half-salad, half-soup selection popular with the lunch crowd. 4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 818-8951, meltrevival.com. MCC, DS. $

THE MERCER This Vine Street spot is the brainchild of Jon Zipperstein, owner of the steak and sushi mainstay Embers in Kenwood. The Mercer proves admirably that comforting staples—when prepared with precision and served with warmth—can send even the most curmudgeonly diner off fat and happy. Take the short ribs. Many places do a great short rib, but these are lovely, dutifully seared, braised slow and low until tender, and not overwhelmed by fatty gravy. It’s the polenta that really launches this dish into high orbit, the quicksand texture that ever-soslowly absorbed the braising liquid, still suggestive of root vegetable sweetness. For dessert, try the savory cheesecake. It’s criminally rich, and worth saving room for the unique mix of four cheeses: blue, goat, cream, and ricotta. The slice relies on compressed grapes, crumbs of rosemary-infused walnut cookie crust and drops of

a port and pear reduction to offer just a hint of sweet. 1324 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-5111, themercerotr. com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$ Top 10

MITA’S

It’s ﬁtting that chef Jose Salazar named this restaurant after his grandmother, because there is something deeply homey about the food at Mita’s. With a focus on Spanish tapas, it always feels, in the best possible way, like elevated home cooking. Its sophistication is modestly concealed. The ﬂavors are bold and direct, whether the smoky depths of the chimichurri rojo on skewers of grilled chicken or the intensely bright sourness of the pozole verde. In dishes like the mushroom soup, the chef hits every register: the acid of red piquillo peppers to balance the earthy mushrooms, the crisp fried leeks against the delicately creamy soup. But what mainly comes through is the warm-hearted affection a grandmother might have put into a meal for a beloved grandson. It’s the kind of big hug everyone needs from time to time. 501 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-6482,

Top 10

ORCHIDS AT PALM COURT

Executive chef George Zappas is maintaining the proud traditions of Orchids with food that is wonderfully complex, diverse, and surprising. A dish of parsnip soup has a quinoa chip and apple butter, along with salty duck prosciutto, notes of smoke and spice from the espelette pepper at the base of the bowl, and a touch of acid that crept in on the roasted parsnip. In a few dazzling bites it all comes together like a highly technical piece of music. A Southeast Asian–inspired halibut dish, with its green curry paste, adobo, and peanut brittle, shows how Zappas can break out of the restaurant’s traditionally European comfort zone. Aside from the food, part of the pleasure is simply being in the space, enjoying the jazz band, and watching the grace and assurance of the staff as they present the meal. 35 W. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 564-6465, orchidsatpalmcourt.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

PLEASANTRY

To remind local diners that they were here before those young dog-toting punks with their exposed brick and crafty ales in Over-the-Rhine, Nicholson’s branded themselves Cincinnati’s “ﬁrst and ﬁnest gastropub,” and revamped the menu to include plenty of snacks and small plates for grazing, and not-quite-brawny, straightforward sandwiches and main dishes. Try the oatmeal crusted trout, bowl of cock-a-leekie soup, or check out the cranberry-apple or Scottish BBQ style burgers or the turkey burger with apple chutney. And the bar’s clubby intimacy makes it easy to belly up and enjoy their impressive collection of single malts or a Scottish stout. 625

With only 40 seats inside, Daniel Souder and Joanna Kirkendall’s snug but spare OTR gem—they serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner like a true neighborhood spot—features an engaging wine program aimed at broadening your palate alongside small plates that are equally ambitious. Classic technique and fresh produce anchor an approachable menu—“everything” biscuits with cured salmon, burgers, and chicken salad sandwiches are available at lunch, and the cauliflower with sambal is a comforting mash-up of a rich cauliflower-and-coconutcream schmear topped with a head of sambal-roasted cauliflower, grapefruit segments, toasted cashews, and cilantro. This is not to say that the proteins aren’t something special. Traditionally a much less expensive cut, the small hanger steak was decidedly tender, served with braised cippolini onions and sauteed mushrooms. 118

Walnut St., downtown, (513) 564-9111, nicholsonspub.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

W. 15th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1969, pleasantryotr. com. Dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $

mitas.co. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

NICHOLSON’S

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Top 10

PLEASE

It’s hard to describe the food at Please to a person who hasn’t been there, except that it’s like nothing else in Cincinnati. Some of chef-owner Ryan Santos’s culinary experiments have been bizarre, some fascinating, and some simply delicious—and all of it emerges from a dining room–centered kitchen that seems like it belongs in a small apartment. Almost all of his risks hit their marks, from the frothy bay leaf–grapefruit mignonette on the oysters to the cedar-rosemary custard. What has made Please increasingly wonderful is a willingness, at times, to deliver something straightforward, like an outstanding course of rye gnocchi or a spicy green kale sauce with a lemony zing. That this weird and wonderful restaurant exists at all, and is actually thriving, is a compliment not just to Santos and his staff but to the city as a whole. 1405 Clay St., Overthe-Rhine, (513) 405-8859, pleasecincinnati.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$$

THE QUARTER BISTRO The Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a halfpound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a ﬂavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with papardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy. 6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 271-5400, qbcincy.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

The spiritual successor of Mullane’s Parkside Café, Ruth’s brings back the vegetable-forward menu with a few concessions to contemporary tastes. Dinner options now include steaks and heavier, braised entrées. But the stirfries, beans and rice, pasta, and the traditional option to add a protein to an entrée (tofu, tempeh, chicken, or local chorizo) for a $2 upcharge are all old standards. While dishes are generally hearty, they are rarely too rich, leaving room to freely consider dessert. There are a small selection of baked goods, including a gooey butter cake, homemade fruit pies, and Madisono’s Gelato. 1550 Blue Rock St., Northside, (513) 542-7884, ruthscafe.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

SACRED BEAST Sacred Beast advertises itself as a kind of upscale diner, but the real gems are the oddball dishes that don’t quite ﬁt the diner mold. The menu can be disorienting in its eclecticism: foie gras torchon is next to lobster poutine, and a king salmon is next to a diner breakfast and deviled eggs. Winners are scattered throughout the menu in every category. On the cocktail list, the Covington Iced Tea, a lemon and coffee concoction made with cold brew, San Pellegrino, and vodka is oddly satisfying. The service is good, and there is some ﬂair about the place—including vintage touches, from the facsimile reel-to-reel audio system to the mostly classic cocktails—even within its rather chilly industrial design. In short, go for the late night grub; stay for the elegant, shareable twists on classic snacks. 1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 213-2864, sacredbeastdiner.com. Lunch, dinner, and late night seven days. MCC. $$

SALAZAR A freewheeling tour through Korean, Moroccan, Italian, and French ﬂavors—and that’s just on one iteration of the ever-evolving menu. Salazar turns out fresh, well-

balanced dishes dotted with seasonal surprises: the cauliﬂower steak special (a Moroccan spiced, seared wedge of the cruciferous vegetable complemented by a strong hit of lemon), the chicken liver mousse (so good it deserves its own trophy), and the succulent chicken Milanese (with its musky, sweet-and-sour notes of ground cherry). With its bustling bar and cheek-by-jowl tables, Salazar hums with energy at every meal. 1401 Republic St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 621-7000, salazarcincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SENATE Ever since it began dishing out its lo-ﬁ eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl of supremely badass hot dogs to the palate-rattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant. Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned fries inspire countless return visits. 1212 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine (513) 421-2020, senatepub. com; 1100 Summit Place Dr., Blue Ash, (513) 769-0099, senateblueash.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. (Blue Ash only: Brunch, lunch, and dinner Sun.) MC, V, DS. $

THE STANDARD Owners Paul Weckman and Emily Wolff offer a pared down menu of six small plates (if you include the fries) and ﬁve mains. It’s simple but satisfying, with an interesting Pan-Asian street food vibe. The two kinds of satay (particularly the lemongrass chicken) and the fried honey sriracha tenders, with an excellent housemade breadand-butter pickle, are the highlights. In terms of drinks, try the Hot Rod, which has the ﬂavor of kimchi captured in a drink. There is a gochujang (salty, fermented Korean

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chile paste) simple syrup and a rim of Korean pepper— and the result is wonderful and unique. 434 Main St., Covington, (859) 360-0731, facebook.com/thestandardcov. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $

THE SUMMIT This “laboratory restaurant” staffed by Midwest Culinary Institute students features a limited but eclectic menu. Soft shell crab goes Latin with black beans, avocado, lime, and chiles. Spanish mackerel is given a Mediterranean twist with yogurt, cucumbers, pickled red onion, and chickpeas. A more traditional pasta dish of hand cut pappardelle with prosciutto, peas, and Parmesan makes an appearance alongside a Kurabota (the pork equivalent of Kobe beef) “hot dog.” Some dishes work better than others: There is redemption in a rustic combination of morels with cream, shallots, and tangy, smoky Idiazábal sheep’s milk cheese. The complex ﬂavor of earth, wood, and char makes this a classic dish for enjoying, not for analyzing. That’s exactly what culinary students should be striving for. 3520 Central Parkway, Clifton, (513) 5694980, midwestculinary.com. Dinner Thurs–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

TASTE OF BELGIUM Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocery at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots. There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and croquettes—molten Emmenthaler cheese sticks—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Six rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town. 1133 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-4607, and other locations, authenticwaffle.com. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Sat, dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

20 BRIX Paul Barraco mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. And his chicken and waffles could inspire you to regularly take a solo seat at the bar. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in fiveounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several. 101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$

TERANGA West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, home-style dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and ﬂavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and all—in a peppery citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijon-coated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater. Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Morrocan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders. 8438 Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

THE VIEW AT SHIRES’ GARDEN The name of this restaurant demands that one question be answered ﬁrst: So, how’s that view? Well, it’s impressive. Especially if the weather cooperates and you can get a seat outside. The cocktail list tells you a lot about The View at Shires’ Garden. Some restaurants create a whole list of original drinks. Here, it’s the classics: things like the Sazerac and the old fashioned. The menu is full

of genuinely seasonal dishes, like the spaghetti squash with a creamy pecorino Alfredo sauce. The Asian-inspired skin-on black cod in dashi broth gently flaked apart in a subtle, flavorful miso broth and was served with wontons of minced fish, each with a magical citrusy quality (from lemongrass) that elevated the whole dish and made it special. 309 Vine St., 10th Floor, downtown, (513) 407-7501, theviewatshiresgarden.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

ZULA For a restaurant whose name loosely derives from an Israeli slang term for “hidden treasure,” it seems apt that a dish or two might sneak in and stun—like the mussels Marseilles, with its bouillabaisse-style broth, rich with saffron, tomato, and fennel. But Zula is no one-trick pony. With a wood-ﬁred oven on the premises, it’s incumbent on you to try the ﬂatbreads. One zula is the eggplant option, where caramelized onions and marinated red bell peppers pair well with subtly sweet fontina. Not every bite at Zula is a game-changer, but one is all you need. 1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 744-9852, zulabistro. com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

FRENCH CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renee to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Asparagus is beautifully roasted and

THE JOLLY GNOMES OF TASTE OF BELGIUM ARE HERE TO MAKE A SPECTACULAR HOLIDAY. Whether you are dining with us in a bistro, catering a holiday party, or sending waﬄes and a gift card, Taste of Belgium has you covered. Visit us at authenticwaﬄe.com to make a reservation or buy everything you need for the holidays.

ToB Catering: (513) 396-5801 authenticwaffle.com

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perfectly salted, and the quiche Lorraine (yes, the old standby) has a nice, ﬁrm texture, and a ﬁne balance of bacon, mushrooms, and oignons (to quote the menu, which is a charming hodgepodge of French and English). This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution. 233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

JEAN-ROBERT’S TABLE No other chef in town has as much presence as Jean-Robert de Cavel, and no other restaurant is steeped in such a singular personality. Who else could conjure up a surf and turf tartare of steak and salmon, or try his hand at a luxurious “haute pocket” (a.k.a., a vol au vent), cramming obscene amounts of lobster and succotash into airy layers of buttery puff pastry? But these touches are more than mere outré Gallic insouciance. Always lurking in the background is a reverence for the classics: Filet mignon cooked so skillfully that the meat maintains that textbook tinge of sourness; frites so crisp that your burger blushes. De Cavel shows us how not to simply pay lip service to staid Old World traditions, but how to ﬁnd vitalité in their modern antecedents. 713 Vine St., downtown, (513) 621-4777, jeanroberttable. com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

LE BAR A BOEUF Jean-Robert de Cavel’s upscale alterna-burger-shack features bifteck haché, ground beef patties that are a mainstay of French family dinners, according to de Cavel. His “Les Ground Meat” is available in beef, Wagyu beef, bison, lamb, and ﬁsh (a blend of albacore tuna and salmon). Portions are eight ounces, taller than a typical burger, and seared on the kitchen’s iron griddle. It’s easy to turn many of the generously portioned appetizers into dinner. Pair the open-faced beef tongue “French Dip” sandwich with a spinach salad and you’ll have one of the best choices in the house. Or go for mac-and-cheese. The lobster mac always sounds lush, but do consider the humble beef cheek version, enlivened by a touch of truffle oil, instead. 2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, barboeuf. com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

INDIAN AMMA’S KITCHEN Muthu “Kumar” Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthia saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item— from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliﬂower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea ﬂour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes. 7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet seven days (all-vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

BOMBAY BRAZIER Indian food in America is hard to judge, because whether coming from the kitchen of a takeout joint or from a nicer establishment, the food will rarely taste all that different. It will generally be some twist on Punjabi cuisine. Bombay Brazier does it just right. Chef Rip Sidhu could serve his dal tadka in India, along with several other extraordinary dishes, and still do a roaring business—and this is not something that can be said of most Indian establishments in America. Try the pappadi chaat, a common Indian street food rarely found on American menus, and you will see

what sets this place apart. They do everything the way it is supposed to be done, from the dusting of kala namak (a pungent black rock salt) on the fried crisps to the mixture of tamarind and mint chutneys on the chopped onion, tomatoes, and chickpeas—having this dish properly made is balm to the soul of a homesick immigrant, and fresh treasure for any American lover of this cuisine. 7791 Cooper Rd., #5, Montgomery, (513) 794-0000, bombaybra ziercincy.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

BRIJ MOHAN Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no supersizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely ﬂavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-ﬂavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. 11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549, brijmohancincin nati.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC. $

I TA L I A N A TAVOLA In 2011, Jared Wayne opened A Tavola Pizza with two friends just as OTR was blowing up. A Ferrara pizza oven was ordered from Italy; Wayne, a skilled woodworker, built custom tables; and the menu was fleshed in with trendy crowd-pleasers like charcuterie and craft cocktails. Fast-forward three years. Brother Nick is now a coowner, and the Waynes have opened a second pizzeria: A Tavola Madeira capitalizes on the menu from the Vine Street location, including the fresh and zesty asparagus, artichoke, and feta pizza on a Neapolitan crust; gooey mozzarella-filled arancini, or risotto fritters; and the unequaled Blue Oven English muffin eggplant sliders. Wash down your small plates with a glass of crisp and grassy Sannio falanghina or an ice-cold Peroni lager. Not ones to rest on their laurels, they also fire up a third Italian import—an Italforni Bull Oven—for their take on Roman-style pies (with a thinner, crispier crust). They’re definitely going to need a bigger parking lot. 7022 Miami

summer on a plate. The dish may be off the menu by the time you’re reading this, but any chef who can celebrate an ingredient like this can carry the whole year. Simple presentations of exquisitely fresh ingredients appear throughout the menu, from the the oyster mushrooms served with Brussels sprouts to the roasted sweet corn on the pizza. Enoteca Emilia does the classics well—the crust on both pizzas we tried was just right, the quattro formaggi a particular highlight—and the prices on these items, along with the wine, were quite reasonable. 110 S. Second St., Loveland, (513) 583-0300, emilialoveland.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

FORNO Cristian Pietoso’s second restaurant has all the bones of an upscale eatery, but the menu is infused with enough Italian soul to make nonna proud. In most instances, raving about a side of creamed corn wouldn’t bode well for the rest of the menu. Here, that side dish—kernels swimming in a pool of truffle-laced heavy cream that demands sopping up—is evidence that each component prepared by chef de cuisine Stefano Carne is purpose-driven. The red wine–braised honeycomb tripe, which carries a warning label (“Don’t be scared!”), and the pappardelle with spiced cinghiale (wild boar) ragu are examples of the elevated, adventurous comfort food that Pietoso strives for. 3514 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 818-8720, fornoosteriabar. com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

Top 10

NICOLA’S

Nicola’s has entered a new era of exuberant creativity under the leadership of chef Jack Hemmer. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the candied slice of blood orange on the mascarpone cheesecake to the staff’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the perfectly nested ribbons of beets in the pickled beet salad or the balance of bitterness, funkiness, and creaminess in the endive and Gorgonzola salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too. 1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr. com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$$

PADRINO

Everything about this place says it’s about the pizza: the herbed sauce, the assault of the cheese, the toppings. It’s all evenly distributed, so you get a taste in every bite. Adriatico’s still delivers the tastiest pizza in Clifton. On any given night the aroma wafts through every dorm on campus. It’s that popular because it’s that good. Being inexpensive doesn’t hurt either. 113 W. McMillan St., Clif-

This sister restaurant to 20 Brix is also owned and operated by the Thomas family and their superstar Executive Chef Paul Barraco, who brings his passion for the slow food movement to the Padrino menu. Billed as “Italian comfort food,” Padrino offers the classics (like lasagna and chicken carbonara) plus hoagies and meatball sliders, an impressive wine list, seasonal martinis, and a decadent signature appetizer—garlic rolls, doughy buns smothered in olive oil and garlic. Best of all, Barraco’s pizza sauce, which is comprised of roasted tomatoes and basil, is so garden-fresh that one can’t help but wonder: If this is real pizza, what have we been eating all these years? 111 Main

ton Heights, (513) 281-4344, adriaticosuc.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

St., Milford, (513) 965-0100, padrinoitalian.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

BETTA’S ITALIAN OVEN

PRIMAVISTA

Ave., Madeira, (513) 272-0192, atavolapizza.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

ADRIATICO’S

This Italian place hits the spot on all levels. It’s casual—we felt at home in jeans and a T-shirt—but not so casual to rule it out as a date-night spot. It’s friendly, with a staff that stays on top of reﬁlling that Morretti La Rossa beer. And best of all, the food is amazing (especially for the price). We ranked their pizza the best in the city. Dubious? Their pizza Margherita will make a believer out of you. Their lasagna, spaghetti, and eggplant Parmesan will have you crying Mama Mia and other Italian-sounding phrases. Their dessert options (Cannoli! Tiramisu! Amaretto cream cake!) are all homemade, and delicious to the very last bite. 3764 Montgomery Rd., Norwood, (513) 631-6836. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $$

ENOTECA EMILIA Margaret Ranalli revives her O’Bryonville restaurant in a new Loveland space. The menu makes the most of seasonality—which is apparent in the shrimp spiedini. The star of the dish is not the grilled shrimp; it’s the salad of ﬁrm diced peaches on which it is served. It is pure

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Besides offering the old world ﬂavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The fork-tender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-ﬁlled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsala soaked raisins, and cream. 810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$

Top 10

SOTTO

There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. Penne with rapini and sausage comes in a buttery, lightly starchy broth with a kick of spice that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of the chicken liver mousse to the tart cherry sauce on the panna cotta, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness. 118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 977-6886, sottocincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$

VIA VITE Cristian Pietoso serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny ﬂavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the ﬂavorful Faroe Island salmon with butternut squash puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette. 520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 7218483, viaviterestaurant.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

J A PA N E S E ANDO You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoal-grilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the rich and meaty chyu toro (fatty big-eye tuna), or the pucker-inducing umeshiso maki (pickled plum paste and shiso leaf roll). Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it oysters, pork belly, or steamed monkfish liver, a Japanese delicacy that you’ll be hardpressed to find in any of those Hyde Park pan-Asian wannabes. The only thing you won’t find here is sake, or any other alcohol. Bring your own, or stick to the nutty and outright addicting barley tea. 5889 Pfeiffer Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 791-8687, andojapaneserestau rant.com. Lunch Tues & Thurs, dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

KYOTO Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—slivers of giant clam on ice in a super-sized martini glass, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, smoky grilled New Zealand mussels drizzled with spicy mayo, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake. 12082 Montgom-

no—tableside pot cooking—section on the menu featuring shabu shabu: slices of prime beef swished through bubbling seaweed broth just until the pink frosts with white. Served with simmered vegetables, ponzu sauce, daikon, and scallions, the concentrated, slightly sour ﬂavor of the beef is vivid. 7149 Manderlay Dr., Florence, (859) 746-

matchsticks of assorted crisp vegetables, and behind it all a wonderful smokiness that pervades the whole meal. The accompanying pot of gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste, adds its own sweet and spicy note. The result is a homey, soulful, and satisfying taste that appeals even to those who’ve never eaten a bite of Korean food before.

1199, matsuya-ky.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

628 Vine St., downtown, (513) 381-0947, harucincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

MEI

RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

Mei’s menu is meant to represent traditional Japanese cuisine, appealing to the novice as well as the sushi maven. It is divided into sections that encourage a progressive meal of small dishes: One each for hot and cold appetizers, noodles, sushi and sashimi, special rolls, soups and salads, sushi dinners (with miso soup), and combinations (such as tempura paired with sashimi). Deep-fried soft shell crab comes with ponzu sauce—a dipping sauce made of rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and citrus juice—and the kind of yakitori that you can ﬁnd on the streets of New York. Bento boxes—lacquered wooden boxes divided into compartments—offer the neophyte a sampling of several small dishes. Mei’s are lovely: deep red and stocked with tempura, cooked salmon, sashimi, stewed vegetables, and a fabulous egg custard with shrimp and gingko nut. Mei’s sushi—nigiri, maki, and handrolls—is exceptionally good with quality cuts of fresh seafood. The staff is knowledgeable, extremely efficient, respectful, and attentive, even when it’s at peak capacity. 8608 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 891-6880, meijapaneserestaurant.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

MIYOSHI For too long, Japanese cuisine in America has meant miso soup, sushi and sashimi, and various grilled meats with teriyaki sauce. Yes, you can get excellent versions of all of these at Miyoshi, but what makes this restaurant truly special is the revelation of the true panorama of Japanese cuisine. From ochazuke (tea soup) with umeboshi (a saltysour pickled plum) to shime saba, marinated mackerel in a delicately pickle-y broth of cucumber and vinegar, there are a dozen items not seen elsewhere. Anyone who enjoys sushi or miso broth has built the foundation to appreciate the rest of this cuisine. Cha soba, green tea noodles with shredded seaweed, chopped scallions, and a sweet and soupy broth, has a satisfying umami note, even served cold, and a pleasing bite with wasabi mixed in. The kinoko itame, sauteed shiitake and enoki mushrooms, is surprisingly buttery and sweet, showing a voluptuous quality rarely associated with this tradition, but a perfect counterpoint to the more austere offerings. 8660 Bankers St., Florence, (859) 525-6564, miyoshirestaurant.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

ZUNDO RAMEN & DONBURI A stark contrast to Styrofoam cup soup, chef Han Lin’s ramens are a deep and exciting branch of cuisine, capable of subtlety, variation, and depth. The simplicity of the dish’s name hides a world of complexity. Zundo uses the traditional Japanese building blocks of ﬂavor—soy sauce, miso, sake, mirin—to create something freewheeling and time-tested. Bowls of ramen come with a marinated softboiled egg half, roast pork, green onion, and a healthy serving of noodles. Each has a distinct identity, like the milky richness of the tonkotsu, the rich and buttery miso, or the light and faintly sweet shoyu ramen. A transformative add-in is the mayu, or black garlic oil. Dripped on top of one of the subtler broths, it adds a deep, mushroom-y richness, with the hint of burned ﬂavor that makes barbecue so good. 220 W. 12th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 975-

KOREAN

MATSUYA At this relaxed little sushi boutique, try ordering kaiseki, a traditional six-course meal that features a succession of small plates but plenty of food. You might encounter an entire steamed baby octopus or yellowtail with daikon radish, pickled mackerel or deep-fried oysters. You can depend on cucumber or seaweed salad, tempura shrimp, a grilled meat or ﬁsh, and of course, sushi—and sometimes even the colorful Bento box sampler. There’s a Nabemo-

Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

SURA This traditional Korean oasis has been flying well beneath the radar since 2010. Don’t let the pepper count on the menu deter you. Each entrée arrives with purple rice and assorted small bites aimed at cutting the heat—steamed broccoli, pickled radishes, soy-saucemarinated tofu, pan-fried fish cake, and housemade kimchi. Korean barbecue staple osam bulgogi—one of only two items meriting a three pepper rating—swiftly clears sinuses with a flavorful duo of pork belly and squid lashed with Korean red pepper paste and served on a sizzling skillet. The two-pepper kimchi jjigae stew marries fermented Korean cabbage with hunks of tofu and shards of pork in a bubbling tomato-based broth. Make sure to order a bowl of the bone noodle soup for the table—a comforting combination of thick noodles and bits of flank steak floating in a umami-rich marrow broth that magically soothes the burn. 7876 MasonMontgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 204-3456, surakorean.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

MEDITERRANEAN ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: roughcut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate. Co-owner Andy Hajjar mans his station at the end of the bar, smoking a hookah pipe that ﬁlls the air with the sweet smell of ﬂavored tobacco, while the friendly but hurried staff hustles through. 906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAFÉ MEDITERRANEAN

0706, zundootr.com. Lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

ery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotosushibar.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

Come for the jo gi mae un tang—a bowl of sizzling, happy hellbroth pungent with red pepper, garlic, and ginger, crowded with nuggets of fish, tofu, and vegetables. Come for the restorative power of sam gae tang, a chicken soup for the Seoul—a whole Cornish hen submerged in its own juices and plumped with sticky rice and ginseng, dried red dates, and pine nuts. Revered for their medicinal properties, both dinner-sized soups will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. They’re a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven. 512 Madison Ave.,

HARU After the closing of Sung Korean Bistro, Haru is a welcome addition to the downtown scene. Dishes are served along with the usual Korean accompaniment of pickles, kimchi, ﬁsh cakes, and other mysteriously delicious dainties. A favorite is the japchae, a traditional dish sporting silky sweet potato noodles with sesame-and-garlic sauce,

Chef-driven Middle Eastern cuisine leans heavily on Turkish tradition here. The baba ghanoush uses seared eggplant, which adds a pleasant smokiness to the ﬁnal product. Börek is described as a “Turkish Egg Roll,” wrapping feta and fresh and dried herbs into phyllo dough, and frying it lightly to brittle ﬂakiness. The pastry arrives atop a vivid cherry tomato marmalade, which adds a welcome dimension of barely sweet fruitiness. While there is a smooth, simple hummus on the menu, you should go for the classic sucuklu hummus, which is spiked with sujuk, a common beef sausage popular all over the Middle East. 3520 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 871-8714. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

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PROMOTION

15 MINUTES

DOWNTOWN LIVING TOUR 2020

PROMOTION

In October we welcomed a new event to our Cincinnati Magazine family and hopefully found new homes for more than a few attendees. Our inaugural Downtown Living Tour showcased seven downtown properties, both new builds and historic renovations. Our goal for this event was to share the true ease and comfort of the downtown living lifestyle. We welcomed 90 guests for personally guided and socially distanced tours on VIP night and another 200 for the casual self-guided tour day. Thank you to our sponsors! Presenting Sponsors: St. Xavier Park, Kroger on The Rhine, Downtown Cincinnati, Inc. Participating Properties: Encore, Seven, The Blonde, 1010 on The Rhine, The Renaissance, 111 Elder at Findlay Market, Parvis Lofts To view all photos from this event and to ďŹ nd out more about other Cincinnati Magazine events, visit CincinnatiMagazine.com/ourevents PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF LUXE & ART

MAIN WHERE REVIEW TO EAT NOW

MEXICAN

FLOYD’S

EL VALLE VERDE

Sure, you can go here for the great baked kibbeh, a blend of delicately spiced ground lamb, pine nuts, and onions, stuffed inside a shell of ground lamb, lamb fat, and bulgur wheat. Or you could visit for the vegetarian moussaka with eggplant, onions, tomatoes, and cilantro. But you’d be missing out on Floyd’s famous tender-crisp spit-roasted chicken and lima beans with chopped parsley, garlic, and olive oil. Not all of the specialties are the real Lebanese deal, but we’ll keep ordering them anyway. 127 Calhoun

Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here—ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white ﬁsh, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire ﬁsh—enough to feed three. 6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513)

St., Clifton Heights, (513) 221-2434, ﬂoydsofcincy.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sat. MC, V. $ Top 10

PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the ﬂavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further. 7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoe niciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

SANTORINI Steak, eggs, and home fries. Jumbo haddock sandwich with Greek fries. Chocolate chip hot cakes with bacon. Notice something wrong with this menu? Chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich with Olympic onion rings. Yep, it’s obvious: What’s wrong with this menu is that there’s nothing wrong with this menu. Greek feta cheese omelette with a side of ham. It’s been owned by the same family for more than 30 years. Santorini has diner standards, like cheeseburgers, chili ﬁve ways, and breakfast anytime, but they also make some Greek pastries in house, like spanakopita and baklava. 3414 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, (513) 662-8080. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sat, breakfast and lunch Sun. Cash. $

SEBASTIAN’S When the wind is just right, you can smell the garlicky meat roasting from a mile away. Watch owner Alex Sebastian tend to the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Alex’s wife and daughter run the counter with efficient speed, and whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with housemade dressing, triangles of spanikopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic (often made by the Mrs.), they never miss a beat, turning more covers in their tiny deli on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend. 5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastians gyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. Cash. $

SULTAN’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE The meze, a parade of small plates and appetizers—the refreshing yogurt dish with cucumber, mint, and garlic known as cacik, and its thicker cousin haydari, with chopped walnuts, dill, and garlic—is rounded out with ﬂaky cheese or spinach boureks, falafels, soups, salads, and more, while baked casseroles or stuffed cabbage and eggplant dishes (dubbed “Ottoman specials”) augment the heavy focus on kebabs: chunks of lamb and beef on a vertical spit for the popular Doner kebab (a.k.a. Turkish gyro), peppery ground lamb for the Adana kebab, or cubed and marinated for the Shish kebab. 7305 Tyler’s Corner Dr., West Chester, (513) 847-1535, sultanscincin nati.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

821-5400. Lunch and dinner seven days. $

HABAÑERO It’s easy to find a cheap burrito place around a college campus, but you’d be hard-pressed to find one as consistently good as Habañero, with its flavors of Latin America and the Caribbean wrapped up in enormous packages. Fried tilapia, apricot-glazed chicken breast, hand-rubbed spiced flank steak, shredded pork tenderloin, or cinnamon-roasted squash are just some of the ingredients for Habañero’s signature burritos. All salsas are house-made, from the smoky tomato chipotle to the sweet-sounding mango jalapeño, which is hot enough to spark spontaneous combustion. 358 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 961-6800, habanerolatin.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $

MAZUNTE Mazunte runs a culinary full court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried mahi-mahi tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mango-habañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke and self-serve sangria (try the blanco), or the cans of Rhinegeist and MadTree on ice. 5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 785-0000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

with slippery tongue, goat meat, shredded chicken, or pork. There are stews, carne asada plates, and sopes— saucers of fried masa much like huaraches, only smaller. 518 Pike St., Covington, (859) 431-3859. Lunch and dinner seven days. Cash. $

TAQUERIA MERCADO On a Saturday night, Taqueria Mercado is a lively ﬁesta, with seemingly half of the local Hispanic community guzzling margaritas and cervezas, or carrying out sacks of burritos and carnitas tacos—pork tenderized by a long simmer, its edges frizzled and crispy. The Mercado’s strip mall interior, splashed with a large, colorful mural, is equally energetic: the bustling semi-open kitchen; a busy counter that handles a constant stream of takeout orders; a clamorous, convivial chatter in Spanish and English. Try camarones a la plancha, 12 chubby grilled shrimp tangled with grilled onions (be sure to specify if you like your onions well done). The starchiness of the rice absorbs the caramelized onion juice, offset by the crunch of lettuce, buttery slices of avocado, and the cool-hot pico de gallo. A shrimp quesadilla paired with one of their cheap and potent margaritas is worth the drive alone. 6507 Dixie Hwy., Fairﬁeld, (513) 942-4943; 100 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 381-0678, tmercadocincy. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $

SEAFOOD McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S The daily rotation here reads like a ﬁsherman’s wish list: fresh lobsters from the coast of Maine, ahi tuna from Hawaii, North Carolina catﬁsh, Massachusetts cod. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Flaky Parmesan-crusted tilapia, with a squeeze of lemon, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square, and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things. 21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339, mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

PELICAN’S REEF

Chelsea Dr., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 341-0707. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

Over the years Chef John Broshar has developed his niche, inspired by the seasonal availability of fish obtained daily from one or more of the purveyors he uses. Mahi-mahi from the Gulf, swordfish from Hawaii, Lake Erie walleye, wild Alaskan salmon, wreckfish from South Carolina, rainbow trout, and wild striped bass are just some of the varieties that rotate through the extensive features listed on a 10-foot by 2-foot chalkboard. The regular offerings are no slouch: Grilled grouper sandwich with chipotle tartar sauce, chubby fish tacos, perfectly fried piping hot oysters tucked into a buttered and toasted po’ boy bun with housemade slaw, and tart-sweet key lime pie. And of course, the damn good New England style chowder.

NADA

7261 Beechmont Ave., Anderson Twp., (513) 232-2526, the pelicansreef.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

MONTOYA’S Mexican places seem to change hands in this town so often that you can’t get the same meal twice. Montoya’s is the exception. They’ve been hidden in a tiny strip mall off the main drag in Ft. Mitchell for years. It’s unpretentious and seemingly not interested in success, which means success has never gone to their head here. At a place where you can get Huracan Fajitas with steak, chicken, and chorizo or Tilapia Asada, the tacos are still a big item. 2507

The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll ﬁnd a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. Tacos inspired by global cuisine include the Señor Mu Shu (Modelo and ginger braised pork) and fried avocado (chipotle bean purée). The ancho-glazed pork shank with chili-roasted carrots comes with a papaya guajillo salad (order it for the table); dreamy macand-cheese looks harmless, but there’s just enough of a roasted poblano and jalapeño punch to have you reaching for another icy margarita. 600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

TAQUERIA CRUZ The menu at this four-table mom-and-pop welcomes you to “a little piece of Mexico.” The huaraches (spelled guarachis here), are ﬂat troughs of thick, handmade fried masa dough the approximate shape and size of a shoeprint, mounded with beans and slivers of grilled beef or chili-red nubs of sausage, shredded lettuce, a crumble of queso fresco, and drizzle of cultured cream. Should you have an adventurous side, you can have your huarache topped

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STEAKS CARLO & JOHNNY The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that melt-in-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the hard to find bone-in filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives. 9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

JAG’S STEAK AND SEAFOOD Chef Michelle Brown’s food is deeply ﬂavored, if occasionally a bit busy, her steaks of the buttery-mild variety,

with not too much salty char crust. All seven cuts are served with veal demi-glace and fried onion straws. According to my steak-centric dining partner, his cowboy rib eye is “too tender and uniform” (as if that’s a crime). “I like to wrestle with the bone,” he adds, though that’s a scenario that, thankfully, doesn’t get played out in this subdued dining room. 5980 West Chester Rd., West Chester, (513) 860-5353, jags.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$

lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto. 12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 677-8669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

THAI

JEFF RUBY’S

GREEN PAPAYA

Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with ﬂoor-length aprons deliver two-ﬁsted martinis and stacks of king crab legs, or mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers, even the willowy model types, inhale slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime) like they’re dining in a crack house for carnivores. The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Jewel, nearly a pound-and-a-half of bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers. 700 Wal-

Inside this simple dining room, replete with soothing browns and greens and handsome, dark wood furniture, it takes time to sort through the many curries and chef’s specialties, not to mention the wide variety of sushi on the somethingfor-everyone menu. Have the staff—friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable—help you. When the food arrives, you’ll need only a deep inhale to know you made the right choice. The Green Papaya sushi rolls are as delicious as they look, with a manic swirl of spicy mayo and bits of crabstick and crispy tempura batter scattered atop the spicy tuna, mango, cream cheese, and shrimp tempura sushi—all rolled in a vivid green soybean wrap. 2942 Wasson Rd., Oakley, (513) 731-0107,

nut St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$

MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE No one has replicated the concept of an expensive boys’ club better than Morton’s. Amid the dark polished woods and white linen, the Riedel stemware and stupendous flower arrangements, assorted suits grapple with double cut filet mignons, 24 ounces of porterhouse, pink shiny slabs of prime rib, overflowing plates of salty Lyonnaise potatoes, or mammoth iceberg wedges frosted with thick blue cheese dressing. Jumbo is Morton’s decree: Oversized martini and wine glasses, ethereal towering lemon soufflés, roomy chairs, and tables large enough for a plate and a laptop. Even steaks billed as “slightly smaller” weigh in at 8 to 10 ounces. 441 Vine St., downtown, (513) 621-3111, mortons.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

THE PRECINCT Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral ﬂavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint. 311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 3215454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

TONY’S He is a captivating presence, Tony Ricci. Best known for his 30 years in ﬁne dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of ﬁlet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of ILLUSTR ATIO N BY EMI VILL AVICENCIO

bage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-and-chili brown sauce. 3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildginger cincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

VI ETNAM E S E PHO LANG THANG Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most ﬂavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk that should make canned energy drinks obsolete.

greenpapayacincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $

SUKHOTHAI

QUAN HAPA

Nestled in the nearly hidden Market Place Lane, this tiny restaurant isn’t exactly slick. A chalkboard lists the day’s specials, usually spicy dishes worthy of an adventurous diner. But if it’s noodle dishes and curries you’re after, Sukhothai’s pad kee mao—wide rice noodles stir-fried with basil—is the best around. Served slightly charred, the fresh and dried chilies provide enough heat to momentarily suspend your breath. Pad Thai has the right amount of crunch from peanuts, slivers of green onion, and mung sprouts to contrast with the slippery glass noodles, and a few squeezes of fresh lime juice give it a splendid tartness. The crispy tamarind duck is one of the best house specials, the meat almost spreadably soft under the papery skin and perfectly complemented by the sweet-tart bite of tamarind. 8102 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 7940057, sukhothaicincy.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. DS, MC, V. $

THAI NAMTIP Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at first bite, then the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill. 5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $

WILD GINGER Wild Ginger Asian Bistro’s ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evidenced by their signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cab-

The Nguyen brothers, Duy and Bao, along with partner David Le, have followed up on Pho Lang Thang’s success at Findlay Market by bursting onto the OTR scene with some of the boldest ﬂavors in the city. A tuna ceviche makes use of the ﬁery sweetness of Malaysian sambal oelek and a banh mi steakburger gains crunch from pickled daikon and a side of Indonesian shrimp chips. Or try the okonomiyaki, a traditional Japanese pancake topped with a choice of bacon, prawns, or vegetables. The Vietnamese coffee, a complex, chicory-forward blend, is an ideal way to end the meal. 1331 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-7826, quanhapa.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $

SONG LONG The menu does have a substantial Chinese section, but make no mistake, the reason there’s a line at the door on weekend nights is the ﬁne Vietnamese specialties cooked and served by the Le family. Begin with the goi cuon, the cold rolls of moistened rice paper wrapped around vermicelli noodles, julienned cucumbers, lettuce, cilantro, and mung bean sprouts. Or try the banh xeo, a platter-sized pan-fried rice crepe folded over substantial nuggets of chicken and shrimp, mushrooms, and wilted mung sprouts. The phos, meal-sized soups eaten for breakfast, are good, but the pho dac biet is Song Long’s best. Crisptender vegetables, slices of beef, herbs, and scallions glide through the noodle-streaked broth. When you’re ordering your entrée, be careful: Mr. Le has a much heavier chili hand than Mrs. Le. Ask who is cooking and order accordingly if you don’t want your eyes to roll to the back of your head. 1737 Section Rd., Roselawn, (513)

COMING SOON

Fans of Ché OTR, Butcher and Barrel, and The View at Shires’ Garden, mark your calendars. Ignite Entertainment, the restaurant group behind these Cincinnati favorites (and many more), is opening Pampas, an Argentinean gastropub that will be located in O’Bryonville, in the former Eighth and English space.

351-7631, songlong.net. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), December 2020, Volume 54, Number 3. Published monthly ($14.95 for 12 issues annually) at P.O. Box 14487, Cincinnati, OH 45250. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2020 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 1 1 1

CINCY OBSCURA

Our Stonehenge ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF BURNET WOODS SITS A UNIQUE PIECE OF ARCHITECTURAL HISTO-

ry—or, rather, many pieces. A structure composed of 51 mismatched blocks of granite occupies a grassy clearing alongside Martin Luther King Boulevard. What’s this miniature Stonehenge-looking monument doing in Clifton? It’s called the Richardson Stones; each block was once part of the walls, archways, and columns of the famed Cincinnati Chamber of Commerce Building, designed by architect H.H. Richardson and constructed in the late 19th century. The building was destroyed in a 1911 fire, and the repurposed rocks recall the castle-esque elegance of Richardson’s lost masterpiece. The monument is fittingly situated across from the University of Cincinnati’s College of Design, Architecture, Art, and Planning (DAAP), which happens to be the site of its creation. Completed in 1972, the Richardson Stones are a result of a friendly design competition among DAAP students, nicknamed “Operation Resurrection.” Visitors should check out the plaque on the monument, which displays a picture of the original building, reminding us that even the most tragic losses yield opportunities for hopeful reconstruction. — M A D E L O N B A S I L 1 1 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 0

PHOTOGRAPH BY LANCE ADKINS

M A N D E L L - B R O W N M E D I - S PA

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