Cincinnati Magazine Dining Guide 2018

THE TOP 10 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS

BY A K S H AY A H UJA

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Kentucky fried rabbit, collard greens, and a biscuit from Commonwealth Bistro

Savory Spots We Recommend

A NEIGHBORHOOD BRASSERIE 1910 ELM ST.

One Great Restaurant, Two Great Reasons to Go! $15 OFF DINNER when you spend $50

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(513) 904-4149 | spoonandcellar.com 701 Broadway | Cincinnati, OH 45202

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 TA B LE O F CO N TEN TS BOURBON BLISS CHOCOLATE VELVET CAKE WITH KENTUCKY BOURBON MOUSSE, FROM ORCHIDS AT PALM COURT.

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BEST NEW RESTAURANTS Our guide to the top 10 newest options on the dining scene.

BY AKSHAY AHUJA

P. 51

WHERE TO EAT A selective list of Greater Cincinnati restaurants.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

P.19 Specialty of the House

A close-up look at a portfolio of signature dishes

P.31

iv *À w ià Go into the kitchen and meet some of our local chefs

P.39 Menu Guide Read it and eat

C OV E R / TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S P H OTO G R A P H S BY J E R E M Y K R A M E R

2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8

Sloane Scheuer

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PUBLISHED BY CINCINNATI MEDIA, LLC CEO Stefan Wanczyk PRESIDENT John Balardo

taste of sun - thur evenings I 3 course menu I $45 for reservations visit or call our host stand 513-421-9100 or reserve online at opentable.com

Claire Mongenas pastry chef

Samantha Johnston maitre d'

hilton cincinnati netherland plaza

Mallory Myers executive sous chef

35 west ďŹ fth street • cin, oh 45202, usa

D I G I N Clockwise from above: Commonwealth Bistro Chef/Owner Chris Burns; Bauer European Farm Kitchen’s tarte flambée; a busy night at Sartre; salmon with king crab at Postmark; fried chicken from Cozy’s Café; diners at Eighth & English; Haru’s dolsot bibimbap; a Knave of Hearts cocktail from Commonwealth Bistro.

RESTAURANTS BY

A KS H AY A H UJA PHOTOGRAPHS BY

J E R E M Y K RA M E R ILLUSTRATIONS BY

M U T I / FO L I O A RT

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The 10 tastiest additions to our local dining crop.

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BOAR D MEETI NG Clockwise from right: Chef/Owner Brad Bernstein; meats and cheeses, including Rosette de Lyon, bresaola, Delice de Bourgogne, and P’tit Basque; root vegetables with granola and crème fraîche.

Postmark LOCATED IN A SPOT IN CLIFTON

that had started to feel a little cursed, with a progression of restaurants that didn’t last long, Postmark has settled in like it belongs there. And it does—the food is so good that it’s unlikely to be leaving anytime soon. This is Chef/Owner Brad Bernstein’s second restaurant, after Red Feather in Oakley, and the years of experience have served him well. Everything at Postmark hums with confidence. Service is friendly and assured, from wine recommendations to the pacing of the meal; one perfectly executed little plate follows another, from spicy-sweet Brussels sprouts roasted with ribbons of pig’s ear to white corn agnolotti surrounded by meaty little fans of maitake mushrooms.

“Farmhouse refined” is how Postmark describes its aesthetic, and there is very little showing off in the cooking—no endless lists of exotic ingredients or wobbly sculptures made out of food—just a focus on seasonal ingredients, proper execution, and depth of flavor. Most meats are cured in-house and vegetables are pickled in season, each with its own distinctive brine or ferment. You can taste this restaurant’s unique virtues in its charcuterie plate. Too often stuffed with every idea the chef could possibly have—good, bad, and not-quitethere—Postmark’s plate knows exactly what it is up to, and each pickle and slice of meat has its own identity and savor.

Bernstein’s menu changes, almost top to bottom, every few months—another sign of the assurance with which everything at this restaurant is done. Almost nothing remains on the menu from our first meal, which means it’s probably time to go back.

3410 TELFORD ST., CLIFTON, (513) 2813663, POSTMARK.RESTAURANT

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Bauer European Farm Kitchen THE DOWNTOWN BASEMENT LOCATION ISN’T ONE

of the usual dining hot spots, so you need to be intentional about going to Bauer—and you should go, because the food justifies the effort. The restaurant was sparked by a question a visiting food writer asked Chef Jackson Rouse: With its centuries of German immigration and rich brewing heritage, where was the good German food in Cincinnati?

Bauer is the answer. The good German food—check that, the great German food—is here.

Specializing in what could be called peasant fare (stews and sausages and spaetzle), Rouse doesn’t attempt to over-elevate his cooking; instead, he embraces the simple and soulful depths. This is the sort of restaurant where you order the same dish again and again—the oxtail stew, for example, or the ratatouille— because it satisfies some very deep need. Even when there’s

MIKE FLOREA FORMER CHEF, MARIBELLE’S EAT+DRINK, NOW A PARTNER WITH KARRIKIN SPIRITS CO.

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S PACE AGE COMFORT FOOD Above: Bauer’s highly reflective bar. Below: Oxtail soup.

clearly great skill behind the dishes at Bauer, there is a comforting, grandmotherly quality to the flavors.

For a restaurant specializing in lovingly braised and slowcooked meats, the vegetarian entrées are, surprisingly, among the most satisfying. The tarte flambée—with the sweetness of delicata squash, smoky roasted goat cheese, and fresh greens— was lovely, and a sign that the restaurant continues to grow and evolve. The dessert menu (once not much of a feature) has also come into its own, with offerings like the apple and pear galette with crème fraîche ice cream.

Many of Bauer’s best dishes wouldn’t even be offered at other local restaurants, which speaks to the need that it fills. Long may it thrive.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TAKE THE FAM ILY? Honestly, Dewey’s Pizza or Forno.

435 ELM ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 621-8555, BAUER CINCINNATI.COM

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE NEW PLACE? I’m a hard-core Sotto guy. As far as date night, we always go to Sotto. As far as new places go . . . we love E+O.

Please 3

Whether drinks are a prelude, the evening’s main event, or a nightcap after a pleasant dinner, there are plenty of watering holes to satisfy your needs.

A collaboration between the owners of Eli’s BBQ and Lang Thang Group (Pho Lang Thang, Quan Hapa), The Hi-Mark is a no-frills joint that offers plenty of substance—and sustenance. Try the garlic pepper lime wings, or the pulled pork banh mi. Wash ’em down with a Columbia punch (gin, lemon juice, Hi-C fruit punch), a craft brew (drafts rotate regularly), or even a glass of chianti.

The brains behind Nation Kitchen + Bar and Rhinehaus opened The Hannaford (as in Samuel, the architect) in Covington in late 2016.

Cocktails are named for Hannaford-designed buildings—their traditional bourbon sour, made with Four Roses, vanilla simple syrup, and egg white, is called the Times Star, after the newspaper building.

Craft taps change weekly, and they indicate on the menu what’s out, a nice touch for beer lovers.

Aster Social Sippery, from the Sleepy Bee ownership team, is a sophisticated nighttime concept just upstairs from the breakfast superpower’s Fourth Street location. An ever-changing menu of cocktails and bar bites (we tried the crack kale, which was roasted crisp and coated with a spicy, salty seasoning mix) make it worth a return visit.

—A M A N DA B OY D WA LT E R S

A STE P UP Top to bottom: Chicken thighs with artichokes and pickled ramps; Chef Ryan Santos; braised rutabaga with dates, grapefruit, and cheddar.

WHEN PLEASE

first opened, Chef Ryan Santos was generating new ideas at such speed and in such quantity it was impossible for all of them to hit their target. There was a sense this meteoric talent didn’t always know how to bring itself under control. In recent months, though, the restaurant has hit its stride.

Dish after dish comes out fully realized, without sacrificing flavor for originality or presentation.

Old favorites like the enoki mushroom “pasta” with walnut milk and comte cheese are more balanced and assured, and new creations remain innovative but now have focus. Wax beans (featuring briny dulse and oyster leaf mixed with a deliciously nutty romesco) and sweet potato dumplings with baby kale, floating in a tart paprika sauce, both surprise and satisfy. The real revelation, though, is dessert. Once spotty, these are now something special. One particular standout features a pumpkin brittle sitting on a custard-like a sheet of ice. After breaking the brittle into shards, you reach a layer of tart quince preserves under the custard, with rosemary and cedar notes adding a kind of backbone to each crunchy, gooey bite. The dish is both visually stunning and a delight to eat—an indication of the heights that Please can reach at its best.

Santos was a few feet away from us during our meal, bouncing to the music on the stereo without ever losing his concentration. If you want a sense of adventure and jazzy improvisation when you eat, Please is a restaurant you can no longer afford to miss.

1405 CLAY ST., OVER-THERHINE, (513) 405-8859, PLEASE CINCINNATI.COM

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Sartre THIS RESTAURANT WITH A

pretentious name has, it turns out, one of the city’s most approachable and varied menus. Those expecting only French flavors will be surprised to find fascinating global touches next to traditional brasserie fare like steak frites. And those expecting a little corner bistro will be stunned at the size of the place. Attached to the Rhinegeist brewery and located in its former bottling room, Sartre can hold 200 diners and has a kind of cavernous, industrial elegance.

Chef/Owner Jim Cornwell, formerly of Boca and Maisonette, partnered with Chef Justin Uchtman (who left Sartre in September) to create a menu that skitters all over the world. What it lacks in cohesiveness it replaces with a surfeit of invention and sheer consistency of execution; there wasn’t a dish that was less than very good, and some were truly magical. The charred romanesco, for example, was served

MEGAN KETOVER PASTRY CHEF, BOCA RESTAURANT GROUP

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with a mysterious black paste made of sesame and some unknown and utterly addictive element that turned out to be black garlic, normally used in Asian cuisine. The yellowfin tuna tartare pointed to France’s colonial past with Vietnam, combining the fish with crepes, a chili aioli, and Thai basil—all in an elegant, painterly composition—to create a fascinating bit of fusion. Our server was excellent, with an extraordinary memory for the elements in the menu’s dozen elaborate cocktails (all very good), and was clearly enjoying working at Sartre. Some of the chicken of the woods mushrooms he had foraged on a hike, he mentioned, had made their way into that night’s excellent farro dish.

There is a palpable sense of excitement at Sartre. It’s definitely worth coming to Over-the-Rhine some evening to share in it.

1910 ELM ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 579-1910, SARTREOTR.COM

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO GET A DRINK? Sundry and Vice. It’s fun to ask the bartenders to make a drink that’s not on the menu.

WHAT STYLE OF FOOD IS MISSING IN THE LOCAL RESTAUR A NT SCENE? Small plates, like State Bird Provisions in San Francisco, where you can pick exactly what you want to eat. Like dim sum but with all different kinds of foods.

We’re awash in enough new breweries to float a coal barge.

Narrowing the field to our favorites was tough, but we tackled the hard work of hoisting a few so you won’t have to wonder.

March First Brewing in Sycamore Township, named for the date Ohio became a state, hopes to appeal to beer fans who find the usual craft offerings too heavy or too bitter. The stars in their lineup are lagers and ciders, including the seasonal Apple Fritter Cider, a collaboration with Holtman’s Donuts.

What used to be the Jockey Club in Newport is now Wooden Cask Brewing Company, started by Randy Schiltz, a cofounder of Rivertown.

The focus here is on ales, stouts, and porters, plus a barrel aged program.

Mixing music and beer was a no-brainer for three friends from La Salle, and their dream turned into Fretboard Brewing Company in Blue Ash, where live bands play all weekend. The beer lineup is anchored by two IPAs, the 7.1 percent ABV Improv and the S23, a sessionable 4.9 percent ABV. — A . B . W .

THE PHILOSOPHER’S STONE Clockwise from top left: Hopbrined pork loin; the entrance to Sartre; the dining room; seared sea scallops with creamed farro, Thumbelina carrots, and pretzel crumble; charred baby octopus with black sesame aioli.

LISA KAGEN FOUNDER OF MELT, NOW WITH HOTEL COVINGTON

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO GET A DRINK?

Wine: The Listing Loon; Bourbon: OKBB; Cocktails: Japp’s; Beer: Taft’s Brewpourium.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE NEW PLACE? Taft’s Brewpourium on Spring Grove with insanely great pizza.

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B LU E P L AT E S P E C I A L Ora King Salmon with parsnip puree, roasted celeriac, Sixteen Brix Everything crumb, and Ohio apple sorbet.

Commonwealth Bistro LOCATED ON THRIV-

ing MainStrasse in Covington, Commonwealth Bistro has to face tough competition for its diners, but it has earned a spot for itself. Advertising itself as “Historically Inspired, Locally Sourced,” it combines local seasonal cooking with nods to Southern and Appalachian cuisine to create an engaging menu. Chef Chris Burns went through old cookbooks when planning his dishes, but for inspiration rather than emulation—the Appalachian elements are dabs rather than defining characteristics. Unusual ingredients like spicebush create a sense of mystery in dishes like the herbed gnocchi, which might be the most perfectly made version of this dish in the city, pillowy but with just the right firmness and a lovely pan-

JOSÉ SALAZAR CHEF/OWNER, SALAZAR AND MITA’S

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s e a re d crust.

One of the intriguing things about Commonwealth is how hard it is to pin the flavors down to any particular tradition. The pork loin with its Sea Island red pea ragout, for example, was a mixture of curry and sweet barbecue flavors. Red peas (like the benne seeds used in another dish) were brought to coastal Carolina by slaves, and you can taste the West Indian, American, and African flavors dancing together on the plate. And whoever is making the cocktails deserves a separate round of applause, because Common-

wealth has some of the best around, from the Duveneck to the Wendell Berry (a kind of blackberry gin fizz).

The fried rabbit and the gnocchi seem to have become mainstays, but otherwise the menu at Commonwealth turns over every few months—while keeping, of course, its roots in our vibrant and complicated American past.

621 MAIN ST., COVINGTON, (859) 9166719, COMMONWEALTHBISTRO.COM

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TAKE YOUR FAM ILY? We like Zip’s for a quick family dinner.

WHAT STYLE OF FOOD IS MISSING IN THE LOCAL DINING SCENE? I would personally like to see some really good Jap-

Great food and ambiance.

anese. I know my buddy Hideki Harada is going to be doing something in the near future and I’m sure he will bring it.

CWC – The Restaurant 6

The Queen City is experiencing something of a sandwich renaissance, with small-batch, homegrown, and handcrafted creations in the spotlight.

If its glorious cases of meats and cheeses (not to mention its name) are any indication, Panino does a mean grilled sandwich. All ingredients are locally sourced and prepared in-house, including meat curing, to ensure peak freshness. The Italian panini bursts with flavor: capicola and mortadella are balanced with provolone, pickled peppers, tomato, onions, and arugula on ciabatta.

THE RESTAURANT INCARNATION OF COOKING WITH CAIT-

lin in Wyoming is lovely and bright, one of those rare restaurants that’s appropriate for a special night out but still enthusiastically accommodating of families with young children. To be fair, they’re enthusiastic about almost everything (“We can’t wait to feed you!” the website pipes) but their graciousness is especially welcome when trying to have an adult meal with kids in tow. The box of toys they produced for our son, which included some nostalgia-inducing action figures, was particularly appreciated.

CWC also happens to have a knockout vegetarian dish on the menu: the roasted eggplant, which hints at what the restaurant might be capable of as it matures.

Along with the delicate charring on the eggplant, there is a tahini dressing with a spicy cilantro herb sauce, a sweet apricot agrodolce, and little torn leaves of mint, all topped with toasted walnuts. Each bite is magically balanced between heat and fruitiness, melting softness and crunch. Desserts—especially the pecan pie brownie—are first-rate as well, and one can only look forward to the future at CWC. 1517 SPRINGFIELD PIKE, WYOMING, (513) 407-3947, CWCTHERESTAURANT.COM

C W C P H OTO G R A P H BY W E S B AT TO C L E T T E

Beyond its grown-up gamer snacks, sandwiches at The Rook are definitely worth trying. We especially love the BBQ Battleship, with honey-bourbon barbecue pulled chicken, complete with cheddar cheese and an onion ring.

Pro tip: Ask the server to “sink your battleship” for extra heat.

Jean-Robert de Cavel’s fast-casual Frenchie Fresh serves up smart yet simply done burgers and sandwiches.

The open-faced Flat Madame—sans croque (there’s no crunch, just flaky, buttery goodness)—marries ham, Swiss, and a rich béchamel sauce with a rolled-flat croissant, topped with a sunny-side-up egg. It might not be tidy, but it’s undeniably brunch-approved.

—KAILEIGH PEYTON

SLIC E N IG HT Right: CWC makes the cheese for the ricotta and prosciutto pizza, topped with blackberries, honey, and tarragon.

BHUMIN DESAI GENERAL MANAGER/CHEF, MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN & BAR

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TAKE YO U R FAM ILY? Maplewood or National Exemplar

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE NEW PLACE? Sartre

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Eighth & English THERE ARE MANY HIGHLIGHTS AT EIGHTH & ENGLISH—THE HOMEMADE

pasta dishes are particular standouts—but what sets the restaurant apart is its raw bar. Generally, a person either has no interest in eating raw oysters (and is perhaps slightly repulsed) or craves them with such intensity that he or she will pay the price of an entire meal for them. If you are one of the latter, Eighth & English is for you. Oysters aren’t found in our neck of the woods, so you need to trust the establishment that serves them to you, and Eighth & English is trustworthy. Oysters aren’t worth anything if they aren’t fresh (in fact, they’re potentially dangerous) but can be utterly sublime when they are. The fruity Kumamoto and creamy kusshi oysters here are sublime. The oyster selection changes depending on availability, and you can tell from the loving way the servers describe each variety’s qualities that these little bivalves are close to their hearts. If you are one of the oyster tribe, make sure you visit.

2038 MADISON RD., O’BRYONVILLE, (513) 386-7383, 8THANDENGLISH.COM

ALFIO GULISANO CHEF/OWNER, BUTCHER & BARREL, CHE

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WHAT STYLE OF FOOD IS MISSING IN THE LOCAL DINING SCENE? I don’t see a Spanish restaurant. It’s huge to me, because Spain is so big in food. And I have not seen. . . a lot of Latin American South American restaurants, except mine that’s Argentine. No Uruguay, Bolivia, Paraguay, etc. South America is a little lost in Cincinnati.

Haru YES, WE HAVE RIVERSIDE KOREAN IN COVINGTON AND DOLSOT

Feed your need for the obscure, hard-to-find, and mom-and-popiest of foods. (Sorry, Findlay, this isn’t your list.) Here are three fresh faces on the market scene.

If you’ve sopped up a belly full of brews with Mazunte’s tacos, you’ll be pleased to learn of its El Mercado in Madisonville. With its slew of seasoned meats, homemade salsas, fresh produce, and dry goods (seven types of dried chilies?!), you’ll be whipping up authentic-style homemade Mexican dishes in no time.

A relatively recent addition at Covington’s RiverCenter, Butlers Pantry is a jack of all trades. Baked-freshdaily breads and pastries, slicedto-order charcuterie, a full coffee bar with local beans, fresh-pressed juices, and the always swoon-worthy Aglamesis and Jeni’s ice creams—the breadth of its gourmet selection is dizzying.

Bistro in Blue Ash, but a great cuisine—and Korean food is quickly and deservedly gaining in popularity—deserves more outlets. Haru is a welcome addition to the downtown scene, especially after the closing of Sung Korean Bistro. There are many solid dishes here, served along with the usual Korean accompaniment of pickles, kimchi, fish cakes, and other mysteriously delicious dainties. A favorite discovery is the jap chae. The silky sweet potato noodles in this traditional dish are beautifully prepared, with their sesame-and-garlic sauce, glossy texture, matchsticks of assorted crisp vegetables, and behind it all a wonderful smokiness that pervades the whole dish. The accompanying pot of gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste that you can even find at Kroger now, adds its own sweet and spicy note. This is the sort of dish that feels homey, soulful, and satisfying, even if you’ve never eaten a bite of Korean food before.

628 VINE ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 381-0947, HARUCINCY.COM

A mom and pop shop for the modern age, Ben and Maureen Redman opened Harvest Market in downtown Milford in early 2017.

With a focus on fresh, local products, the specialty market more closely resembles a mini-Whole Foods Market than a bodega. Its groceries include locally sourced meats and milk, artisan breads, canned goods, and a selection of farm-fresh fruits and veggies. – K . P.

BOWLED OVER Clockwise from top left: Eighth & English Chef Chase Blowers; his tuna poke on a nori cracker; dolsot bibimbap with banchan from Haru.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TAKE TH E FA M I LY ? Chandler’s Burger Bistro on the west side.

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FRESH CATCH Above: Silk snapper with coconut rice and burnt carrots. Below: The dining room.

For today’s restaurants, Ron Novak, design architect and partner at Oakley’s Drawing Dept—which has created spaces for Boca, Sotto, and Taft’s Ale House— says, “the best trend is no trend.” Eateries are foregoing the fads of yesteryear to adopt bespoke interior aesthetics.

OUT WITH THE OLD For the most part, Novak says, industrial touches like Edison bulbs, subway tile, and gas piping are out, and Mid-Century Modern—a hint industrial, yet minimal and chic—has gained a foothold, with an emphasis on incorporating tailored, handmade furniture and decorative elements to drive a brand-specific concept.

ALL ARE WELCOME “Approachability is king,” says Novak.

“Fine dining has been disarmed.... It’s not popular with [millennials].” The stainless steel doors once shielding sight lines of the kitchen are gone, and views onto the line, or at least the expo station, let diners seeking transparency sneak a peek behind the scenes.

Cozy’s Café 9

COZY’S VIRTUES CAN BEST BE SEEN IN ITS ASSURED VER-

sions of comfort-food classics. Sometimes you need fresh ingredients and a dash of creativity to remember how good those dishes can be—and Cozy’s is a good place to rediscover old favorites. Their buttermilk fried chicken, with its light, ungreasy crust, is tasty enough to appear in slightly different forms on both their dinner and brunch menus—with beans and mashed potatoes at dinner, and waffles at brunch. What sets it apart from fast food equivalents is the chile-infused maple dip, which gets repurposed as a glaze at brunch. Wonderfully zippy and flavorful, the glaze wakes up this familiar dish and makes it something to slow down and pay attention to. Located in Liberty Township, with enormous seating capacity and a something-for-everyone menu, Cozy’s is a good sign of how the bar for food is being raised in the suburbs.

6440 CINCINNATI DAYTON RD., LIBERTY TOWNSHIP, (513) 644-9365, COZYSCAFEANDPUB.COM

TALK OF THE TOWN How can a restaurant dominate on the ’gram? Layering textures and finishes certainly helps. While floor, wall, and ceiling tiles in ceramic or stone are popular standbys, glass, wooden, and metal tiles— or even tiling framed artwork—are unexpected twists. The technique, Novak says, imbues “a heavy ambience that wows as soon as you walk in the door.” — K . P.

CHRISSY ANTENUCCI CHEF/OWNER, THE WHEEL

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WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO GET A DRINK? Right now, Deeper Roots Coffee.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO TAKE THE FAMILY? Jean-Robert’s Table

Chez Renée FOR ANYONE WHO HAS EVER FOUND FRENCH

food pretentious or intimidating, Chez Renée is a lovely corrective, and one that perfectly suits its location on Milford’s Main Street. The casual, family vibe is unmistakable, with instructions shouted back and forth between the servers and the kitchen. The chef, Laurent Degois, often comes out to chat with diners. The most truly French part of the meal, though, is the price of the bottles of wine—it’s clearly regarded as a necessary part of life rather than an occasional luxury. We had an excellent bottle of Beaujolais, smooth and light, and a solid if unspectacular Côtes du Rhone for close to what a single bottle costs in other restaurants. Add some hot brie and bread or some chocolate and butter-sugar crepes, and you might be quite content to let your lunch break stretch to several hours, as we did.

233 MAIN ST., MILFORD, (513) 248-0454, CHEZRENEE FRENCHBISTROT.COM

BON JOUR , MON SIE UR Above: Chez Renee Chefs/Owners Laurent and Cathy Degois. Below: the croque monsieur.

10 ELIAS LEISRING OWNER, ELI’S BBQ, SAUNDRA’S KITCHEN, THE HI-MARK

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO GET A DRINK? Longfellow. It’s such a personal place: great drinks, impeccable music, lights are cozy, windows are steamed up. Service is attentive, disarming, and at arm’s length, which is classy. No hovering. Tight little munching menu, the beer selection is fresh and worldly. Longfellow is the Kirk Gibson of the 19th century-inspired watering hole!

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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2018 PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARLENE ROUNDS

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Court Street Lobster Bar Lobster Roll A

quarter pound of fresh Maine lobster meat—mixed with just the right amount of lemon zest mayo—packed into a proprietary Sixteen Bricks challah bun.

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Fiery Hen Fried Chicken Â? Cage-free

chicken, deep-fried, with just the right amount of Southern spice and Cincy charm.

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Restaurant L Maine Lobster Salad Maine lobster atop jicama, apples, and radicchio, with yogurt > ` i `iÀy ÜiÀ Û > }ÀiÌÌi°

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Carlo & Johnny Porterhouse A 24-ounce dry-aged center-cut showstop«iÀ Ì >Ì vi>ÌÕÀià > ÃÌÀ « ÃÌi> > ` > w iÌ either side of the distinct t-shaped bone.

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Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Steak Collinsworth A signature Jeff Ruby 8-ounce w iÌ } Ì ««i` Ü Ì č >à > } VÀ>L > ` >ë>À>}ÕÃ] «> Ài` Ü Ì À V Lj>À > Ãi > ` L À`i > Ãi sauces.

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O F T HE

Specialty HO

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The Precinct’s The Lachey Known elsewhere as a Cowboy Steak, this 22-ounce dry-aged bone-in rib eye remains a staple ÕÀ V Ì޽à }iÃÌ ÀÕ } w i dining restaurant.

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O F T HE

Specialty HO

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Metropole Burnt Carrot Salad Â? Avocado,

pickled onion, feta, cilantro, and toasted pumpkin seeds.

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Orchids at Palm Court Chateaubriand Â? With mousseline potatoes, seasonal vegetables and a duet of sauces, presented and served tableside in classic style.

Specialty HO

USE

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O F T HE

Specialty HO

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Sleepy Bee Café Sweet Potato Warm Quinoa Bowl Sautéed spinach and mushrooms with basil chimmichurri, pickled onions, kale chips, and seared sustainable salmon.

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Taziki’s Mediterranean Salad with Grilled Shrimp � Fresh

mixed lettuces topped with a variety of crisp vegetables, roasted pecans, and feta crumbles, dressed in homemade balsamic vinaigrette and topped with fresh grilled shrimp.

O F T HE

Specialty HO

USE

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QUEEN CITY LUNCH MON–FRI 11:30AM–2PM | $12 Ditch the desk and enjoy the Queen City Lunch.* Uniquely crafted each week with seasonal ingredients, you’ll treat yourself to soup, salad, and sandwich—all within 30 minutes.

Call 513.578.6660 for reservations

609 Walnut Street, Cincinnati | MetropoleOnWalnut.com @MetropoleOnWalnut | #QCLunch for weekly specials

S P ESCPI AE CL I A D L VAEDRVTEI SR ITNI SG I N S EGCSTEI O C TNI O N

2018

CHEF PROFILES PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARLENE ROUNDS & ALEX TAYLOR

31

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CHEF PROFILES

James “ Jimi ” Gadd Executive Chef, Cincinnati Art Museum Terrace Café Describe your menu and its KPƃWGPEGU The Terrace Café at the Cincinnati Art Museum offers a full menu of delicious soups, salads, and sandwiches inspired by artworks in our permanent collection. The menu combines fresh, seasonal selections with classic favorites, like our tomato soup and chicken salad sandwich.

What makes the Café so unique is that you can dine with art. Tell us a NKVVNG CDQWV [QWT TGUVCWTCPV ECTGGT I have been cooking since I was 16 at Û>À Õà ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ìð } Ì Þ wÀÃÌ Ài> start at 20 when a chef in Columbus took me under his wing and made me supervisor. He taught me a lot about true fundamental cooking.

Since then, I have worked with some of the best crews you could ask for.

The kitchen staff at The Rookwood was a special group. Where do you like to eat out? If I am going out to celebrate there is only one place I tend to go: Sotto. Everything is spot on. It’s hard to go there if you’re seated anywhere near the kitchen because you will end up watching them cook almost the entire time.

What are your culinary inspirations? Þ L }}iÃÌ yÕi Vi Ü i Ì comes to cooking would have to be my mother and her Kentucky heritage. Everything was simple. They used basic, fundamental cooking techniques and were able to feed large families.

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CHEF PROFILES

CHEF

Renee Schuler Chef and Owner, eat well celebrations and feasts &GUETKDG [QWT OGPW CPF KVU KPƃWences. Eat well celebrations and feasts is a catering business where we custom-craft each meal to create an unforgettable experience for our clients and their guests. We work from a global palate using the best seasonal ingredients for a fresher, more colorful meal. How did you get your start cooking in restaurants? I started cooking in New York

ÌÞ] wÀÃÌ >Ì > Þ iÞiÀ½Ã ` > yÕi Vi` ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì] />L >] > ` Ì i >Ì Ì i Ài V i` ÌiÀÀ> i> restaurant Picholine. I came home to Cincinnati to be the Executive Chef v Ì i ÕÀ« , `}i ] Ü Ì > American-regional menu. Tell us a little about your culinary career.

Li}> Ü À } v À LLÞ >޽à events team in service. It was there I knew I had to become a chef and moved into the kitchen. I went on to receive my diploma at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City.

What are your culinary inspirations? Our clients, their guests, and the event itself are the inspiration. So our menus can be bold, like “Espana `iÀ >]» À «iÀà > v À Ì i wÀÃÌ meal a just-married couple shares with loved ones. Favorite dish to cook? I love to create sauces, build } y>Û Àà > ` >ÞiÀ } i i i Ìà ÛiÀ Ì i] Ü iÌ iÀ ̽à > Û LÀ> Ì artichoke champagne sauce or a V « iÝ Ã« VÞ / > «i> ÕÌ Ü Ì {ä different components. Anything else you want to tell us? eat well offers corporate catering as well as social > ` Üi`` } V>ÌiÀ }° Ài Ì > ever, smart businesses are choosing to provide well-crafted and revitalizing food for their team members and guests in keeping with the principles of the Corporate Athlete.

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CHEF PROFILES

CHEF

Jean-Robert de Cavel Chef/Owner, Restaurant L &GUETKDG [QWT OGPW CPF KVU KPƃWences. I want a menu that is classic and yet modern. I want our older clientele to enjoy the experience they are used to, but I also want young people to be exposed to a new, elevated experience. Also, the menu is partly dictated by the availability of local ingredients, which we use as much as possible. How did you get your start cooking in restaurants?

I always knew I wanted to cook. I started an apprenticeship at Le Feguide in Lille on the day of my 16th birthday. Tell us a little about your restaurant career. I’ve been lucky to relocate to many places—the south of France, Charmoix, Monte Carlo.

I spent time in Zermatt, Switzerland, and Corsica, Italy. I came to Cincinnati to be the Executive Chef of Maisonette, which boasted the longest-running streak—41 years—of wÛi ÃÌ>À >Ü>À`Ã] Ì i } iÃÌ `iÃignation given by the Mobil Travel Guide. What are your culinary inspirations? I began my training at high-end restaurants in France. This helped me to develop an understanding of products and methods of cooking through different generations. One reason I stayed in Cincinnati is because we experience four seasons. There is no new fruit or vegetable, no new animal to eat, but Üi ÃÌ }iÌ iÝV Ìi` >L ÕÌ Ì i y>Û Àà of each season. Favorite dish to cook? Ûi Ì «Ài«>Ài wà ° -i>v ` is always a great protein to show off the most beautiful produce of the season. Fish is also enhanced by a wide variety of sauces, allowing a lot of creativity in the process.

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CHEF PROFILES

Kyle Goebel Executive Chef, Overlook Kitchen + Bar, The Summit a Dolce Hotel &GUETKDG [QWT OGPW CPF KVU KPƃWences. The Overlook Kitchen + Bar is unlike any other dining experience in Cincinnati. Locals and hotel guests > i Ü w ` V> Þ Ã ÕÀVi`] v>À Ì Ì>L i v ` ÃiÀÛi` > Li>ÕÌ vÕ Þ >«« Ìi` ë>Vi] > ` > v Ì >}> ÃÌ Ì i L>V `À « v > ÃÌÕ } view. How did you get your start cooking in restaurants? During high ÃV >Ì `iÀ] Þ Ì iÀ Ü Õ ` > i i LÕà Ì>L ià >Ì Þ Õ V i½Ã reception hall on the weekends as a º«Õ à i Ì°» ÌÌ i ` ` à i Ü] i Þi` iÛiÀÞ i Ì v Ì° ƂvÌiÀ }À>`Õ>Ì } L >À`i` > « > i v À

> v À >° 7 À } >à > LÕÃL Þ] ÃÌ] L>ÀÌi `iÀ] > ` Ì> i ÕÌ }ÕÞ] Þ Ü> `iÀ ÕÃÌ Ì i >VÀ ÃÃ Ì i Ü À `] LÕÌ > Ü>Þà ÀiÌÕÀ i` i° Tell us a little about your restaurant career. >Ûi Ü À i` > Û>À iÌÞ v ÌV i À ià vÀ > v À > Ì Ì> Þ° Ü>à Kitchen Supervisor and Banquet

iv >Ì Ì V >Ì iÌ iÀ > ` * >â>] Ü iÀi Ü À i` Õ `iÀ ÝiVÕ Ì Ûi iv / `` i Þ° « >Þi` > iÞ À i Ì i Ìi> Ì >Ì i «i` i>À "ÀV `à > ƂƂƂ Ûi > ` À>Ì } > ` > ÀLià ÕÀ -Ì>À À>Ì }° What are your culinary inspirations? I Ü> Ì ÕÀ }ÕiÃÌÃ Ì vii ÕÀÌÕÀi` > ` V v ÀÌ>L i Ü i Ì iÞ >Ì ÕÀ i Õð - « i à « ÃÌ V>Ì Ã Ì i goal. Favorite dish to cook? Eggs >Ài iÛiÀÞÌ } Ì > V iv° v Þ Õ V> V i}}à Üi ] Þ Õ V> «ÀiÌÌÞ ÕV cook anything. Eggs are cool.

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CHEF PROFILES

CHEF

Frances Kroner Executive Chef, Sleepy Bee Café and Aster &GUETKDG [QWT OGPW CPF KVU KPƃWences. I’m driven to make food that lifts—lifts people by energizing their palate, spirit, and bodies—and lifts the environment. We do our very best to source mindfully—locally when it makes sense, which it often does. Tell us a little about your restaurant career. I loved working at Slims. It was a place for dreamers.

The chef-owner, Patrick McCafferty, was a farmer—way ahead of his time.

He had a farm in Northside before “farm to table” was a thing. Patrick taught me everything: the business of restaurants, the passion of a chef.

Where do you like to eat out?

When we venture out in Cincinnati it’s usually for a casual meal—unplanned. I love Pleasantry or Salazar in OTR, Bouquet in Covington, or ÌÌ iwi ` ÀÌ Ã `i° Ûi Ì Ã Ì at a bar with a few friends. When we have our boys, Ruth’s Parkside Café in Northside is a go-to, as well as Jean-Robert’s French Crust. What are your culinary inspirations?

I love to travel. I am inspired by y>Û ÀÃ] ÕÃÕ> Þ Ã iÌ } Ì>ÃÌi and can’t get out of my head. Like a catchy song. I get stuck on ingredients too; I like to explore all the potential in an ingredient. Favorite dish to cook? Sauce. I start every dish concept with a sauce or two, then build from there. I just love to play with herbs and vinegar. At home, almost all of my meals fall into the “bowl” category. On Sundays, I make a bunch of sauces and the rest of the week we play jazz.

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Photographed by Marlene Rounds

NASHVILLE-STYLE HOT CHICKEN

2 6 W. C O U R T S T R E E T C I N C I N N AT I , O H • W W W. F I E RY H E N C I N C Y. C O M

The Transept, Cincinnati’s premier event space, is nestled in the southwest corner of Washington Park along the Music Hall arts corridor, adjacent to the new Cincinnati Shakespeare theatre and Memorial Hall. Transformed from a German Gothic church, social gatherings to weddings and corporate events.

The Transept Exclusively by Funky’s Catering Events Now Accepting Reservations TheTransept.com | (513) 841-9999

Starters

Bruschetta $8.95

Marinated Roma and sundried tomatoes topped with fresh housemade mozzarella served over focaccia toast & drizzled with balsamic glaze

Spinach and Artichoke Dip $7.95

Creamy dip with artichokes, spinach & diced tomatoes served warm with garlic crostinis

Hummus Trio with Wood Fired Pita Chips $7.95

Traditional, roasted red pepper and black bean hummus, served with toasted pita points, carrots, celery & red peppers

Korean BBQ Meatballs $8.95

Meatballs sautéed in Korean BBQ sauce with fresh pineapple, green onions, sesame seeds & sriracha

Brixx Stixx $5.95

Garlic parmesan bread sticks with honey mustard & marinara dips

Chicken Tortilla Soup – Cup $3.95 Bowl $5.95

Creamy cheese base with peppers, our wood-roasted chicken and tri-colored tortilla strips

Wood Fired Wings

Choose from Three Flavors (Garlic Rosemary, Buffalo, & Sweet Thai Chili) $10.95

Chicken wings marinated for 24 hours in rosemary & garlic and roasted in our wood burning oven. No grease. No frying.

Served with celery & gorgonzola dip

Salads

Add a little something extra

Wood Fired Pizza – Brixx Classics

All pizza are 10 inches. Both our traditional & whole wheat doughs are vegan. Vegan cheese is available upon request at no charge. Gluten-free is available for an additional $3.

Americo $9.95

Sliced pepperoni with mozzarella & mushrooms on a tomato sauce base

Bronx Bomber $11.95

Spicy Italian sausage, prosciutto, mozzarella & gorgonzola on a tomato sauce base topped with fresh oregano

BBQ Chicken $11.95

Hand-pulled, wood-roasted chicken with BBQ sauce, smoked gouda, mozzarella &red onion topped with fresh cilantro

4x4 $12.95

Four meats – sausage, pepperoni, prosciutto & bacon. Four cheeses – mozzarella, parmesan, gouda & goat cheese on an olive oil base

Hawaiian $10.95

Fresh pineapple, prosciutto & mozzarella on an olive oil base with fresh cilantro

Sweet Thai Chicken $11.95

Wood-roasted chicken tossed in sweet chili sauce, goat cheese, mozzarella, roasted red peppers & pistachios drizzled with Thai peanut satay sauce

Bourbon Chicken $12.95

Our hand-pulled, wood-roasted chicken in bourbon glaze with caramelized onions, wild mushrooms, gorgonzola & mozzarella

Rosemary Chicken & Mushroom $12.95

Wood-roasted chicken with mozzarella, rosemary, wild mushrooms, caramelized onions & four-cheese blend with an olive oil base

Enhance any of our salads with our hand-pulled, wood-roasted chicken ($3), sautéed shrimp ($6), or wood-roasted salmon ($8)

Mexican $10.95

Brixx Salad $6.50

Rustica $11.95

Spring mix with pistachios, crumbled goat cheese & croutons tossed with housemade balsamic vinaigrette

Caesar Salad $6.50

Hearts of romaine topped with croutons & fresh parmesan

Spinach Salad $6.95

Roasted red peppers, feta, croutons & pistachios tossed with housemade fat-free honey-chipotle dressing

Southwestern Chicken Salad $10.95

Romaine tossed with gouda, diced tomatoes, black bean corn salsa and creamy chili pepper dressing topped with our wood-roasted blackened chicken and tortilla strips

Thai Chicken Salad $10.95

Romaine, sweet chili chicken, roasted red peppers, pistachios, cilantro & goat cheese drizzled with Thai peanut dressing and topped with green onions and sesame seeds

Arugula & Pear Salad $7.50

Arugula topped with Asian pears, candied pecans, gorgonzola & sundried cranberries with honey herb vinaigrette

Pear Chicken Salad $10.95

Mixed greens topped with fresh fruit, candied pecans and our housemade pear chicken salad with a side of honey herb vinaigrette

Black bean spread base with mozzarella and cheddar, Roma tomatoes & sliced fresh jalapenos topped with sour cream Prosciutto, mozzarella, mushrooms, artichoke hearts, Kalamata olives & roasted garlic on an olive oil base

Buffalo Chicken $10.95

Buffalo wing sauce base, mozzarella, gorgonzola & roasted chicken, topped with fresh celery served with your choice of bleu cheese or ranch dressing

Spicy Shrimp $13.95

Spicy shrimp on a sriracha base with sundried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, mozzarella, goat cheese & fresh basil

Chicken Florentine $11.95

Our hand-pulled, wood-roasted chicken, crumbled bacon, Roma tomatoes, spinach, feta & mozzarella on an olive oil base

Wood Fired Pizza – Veggies Classics Greek $9.95

Roma tomatoes, mozzarella, Kalamata olives, red onions and feta cheese on an olive oil base topped with basil & balsamic glaze

Pear & Gorgonzola $11.95 Sliced Asian pears, mozzarella, gorgonzola, walnuts & caramelized onions on an olive oil base

Wood-Roasted Vegetable $9.95 Wild mushrooms, broccoli, onions, peppers and fresh oregano with tomato sauce & mozzarella

Wild Mushroom $10.95

A trio of wood-roasted shiitake, Portobello & button mushrooms with mozzarella on an olive oil base topped with arugula and shaved parmesan

Margherita $10.95

Fresh housemade mozzarella, Roma tomatoes & fresh basil on an olive oil base

Sandwiches

Served with your choice of side: black bean salad, pasta salad, fresh fruit or chips

Roasted Chicken Club $9.95

Hand-pulled oven-roasted chicken with pecan smoked bacon, tomato, melted provolone cheese, arugula & aioli on fresh-baked focaccia

Meatball Sub $9.95

Meatballs in French bread topped with Pomodoro sauce, roasted peppers & onions, Italian seasoning and provolone cheese & toasted in the wood-burning oven

Housemade Mozzarella Sandwich $8.95

Housemade mozzarella melted on fresh baked focaccia with Roma tomatoes, red onions, fresh basil & balsamic vinaigrette

Pear Chicken Salad Sandwich $10.95

Our housemade pear chicken salad with arugula, candies pecans and honey herb vinaigrette on fresh focaccia bread spread with cranberry pecan chutney

Pasta

Roasted Chicken Penne $13.95

Wood-roasted, blackened chicken sautéed with sweet peppers, onions, Cajun spices & gorgonzola cream sauce

Pasta Pomodoro $8.95

Fresh basil, garlic, red onion & Pomodoro sauce over angel hair pasta (with chicken $11.95, with sausage/peppers/ & onions $11.95, with sautéed shrimp $12.95)

Roasted Chicken Alfredo $14.95 Crumbled bacon and wood-roasted chicken tossed with wild mushroom alfredo sauce over angel hair pasta

9640 Mason-Montgomery Rd. Mason, OH 45040 (513) 486-1805 brixxpizza.com

Hours

Mon–Sat 11–1 am Sun 11 am–11 pm Daily specials and BOGO pizza and apps after 11 pm

House Specialties

Our wood-burning oven is the center of our restaurant. All of our hand-crafted pizzas are made on housemade dough and topped with the freshest ingredients before being w à i` ÕÀ LÀ V Ûi ° 24 craft drafts on tap, 14 wines by the glass, and a full bar.

Vegan, vegetarian, and glutenfree options available.

Chicken Florentine and 4x4 « ââ>Ã > ` Ü ` w Ài` Ü }Ã

Entertainment No

Credit Cards

All major

Meatball Marinara $12.95

Attire

Shrimp Carbonara $15.95

150 inside + outdoor patio seating for 50

Meatballs served over angel hair pasta and topped with marinara, fresh oregano & shaved parmesan Sautéed shrimp, crumbled bacon, red onions and sundried tomatoes tossed with alfredo sauce & penne

Desserts

Salted Caramel Cookie $6.95

A giant cookie with white chocolate chunks, buttery toffee and pretzels served straight out of the wood-burning oven

Root Beer Float $4.95

Our draft root beer poured over two generous scoops of vanilla ice cream

S’Mores Dessert Pizza $5.95

Toasted marshmallows and warm melted dark chocolate sprinkled with graham cracker crumble on a pizza crust

Ice Cream $2.95 Seasonal Flavors

Casual

Capacity

Reservations No

Banquet Facilities No

Catering

On-site & off-site

Children’s Menu Yes

Carryout Available Yes

Cigar Smoking Allowed No

Wheelchair Access

Drinks

14 Wines by the Glass 24 Craft Beer Drafts

Additional Can/Bottle options available

Full Bar with Seasonal, House Created Cocktails

Yes

Liquor Yes

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Matt’s Starters

Wild Mushroom $11.99

$TKG ITW[GTG CPF UOQMGF DNGW EJGGUG YKVJ Ć‚I LCO dried fruit, and house made spiced nuts and crackers.

Ahi Tuna $16.99

Artisan Cheese Plate $14.99 Stir Fry Edamame $6.99

Edamame soy bean pods stir fried with fresh garlic, toasted sesame seeds, and sea salt.

Chicken Bruschetta $12.99

Grilled chicken, fresh mozzarella, squash ribbons, and marinated grape tomatoes on toasted rosemary potato bread. Finished with a balsamic glaze.

Ahi Poke Nachos $13.99

West Chester

9558 Civic Centre Blvd.

West Chester, OH 45069 (513) 298-4050

Kenwood

The Kenwood Collection 5901 E. Galbraith Rd. Cincinnati, OH 45236 (513) 914-4903 mtmtavern.com

Hours

Mon–Thurs 11 am–11 pm Fri & Sat 11 am–midnight Sun 10 am–10 pm

House Specialties

HAPPY HOUR Mon–Fri 4–7 pm in the bar; Sun 4–9 pm in the bar & dining room WINE DOWN WEDNESDAY all day LADIES NIGHT Thurs 4–9 pm SUNDAY BRUNCH 10 am–2:30 pm

Entertainment No

Credit Cards All major

Attire Casual

Reservations Yes

Banquet Facilities Yes

Catering

On-site & off-site

Children’s Menu Yes

Carryout Available Yes

Cigar Smoking Allowed No

Wheelchair Access Yes

Liquor Yes

Crispy fried wontons surround spicy ahi tuna, Asian slaw, diced avocado, and toasted sesame seeds. Finished with wasabi aioli and Guinness-soy reduction.

Loaded Tavern Chips $8.99

Topped with bleu cheese sauce, crumbled bleu cheese, shredded white cheddar, diced tomatoes, smoked bacon, scallions, and tarragon essence.

Cremini mushrooms, goat cheese, blended ricotta, and baby arugula.

Creamy miso mousse topped with avocado slices, Asian slaw, rare sliced ahi tuna, toasted sesame seeds, wasabi aioli, and soy reduction.

Make it a Combo for $11.99 – Soup or Salad & ½ Sandwich or ½ Flatbread

Choose from California Turkey Club | Housemade Chicken Salad | or any Flatbread – add $3 for Ahi Tuna | $2 Crab Rangoon

Sandwiches

Served with choice of fries, sweet potato fries, side Matt’s or Miller Salad. May substitute a meat free Beyond Burger for any burger patty for $2.49

Big Island Beyond Burger $15.49

Teriyaki glazed Beyond Burger™ with grilled pineapple, roasted red peppers and avocado aioli, on a toasted brioche bun.

Hot Buffalo Wings $12.99

California Turkey Club $13.49

Bavarian Pretzel Bites $8.99

Cuban $13.49

Roasted Garlic Hummus $9.99

The Chicken & The Egg $13.49

Baked Spinach & Artichoke Dip $9.99

Housemade Chicken Salad $12.49

A creamy blend of spinach and artichoke hearts topped with parmesan cheese. Served with tortilla chips.

A generous scoop of house made chicken salad with grapes, served with lettuce, tomato, and alfalfa sprouts on a toasted Telera bun.

Soups + Salads

/ÀÕvyi` Ă•ĂƒÂ…Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“ Ă•Ă€}iĂ€ $13.49

A pound and a half of wings tossed in house made Buffalo sauce.

Served with bleu cheese and celery.

Warm and soft Bavarian-style pretzels dusted with sea salt and served with roasted garlic sauce and sweet & tangy mustard sauce.

Creamy hummus topped with diced tomatoes and served with warm pita bread, fresh vegetables, and a cook cucumber dipping sauce.

Add Chicken $4.00 | Salmon $6.00 | Grilled Steak $5.00 | Sesame Crusted Ahi Tuna $6.00 | Shrimp $6.00

Beer Cheese $5.99 Tomato Basil Bisque $5.99 Chicken Noodle $5.99 The Miller Salad Sm $6.99/Lg $9.99

A variety of mixed greens tossed in a sweet & sour dressing and topped with bacon, red onion, crumbed bleu cheese, and grape tomatoes.

Caesar Wedge $7.99

Not quite a wedge, not quite a Caesar. A wedge of baby romaine with grape tomatoes, house made croutons, a classic Caesar dressing.

Oven roasted turkey breast on toasted whole grain bread with herb aioli, bacon, Swiss cheese, avocado, lettuce, and tomato.

Roast carnitas, smoked ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, and honey mustard on a pressed Telera bun.

Marinated chicken breast, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, medium fried egg, and spicy sriracha mayo on a toasted brioche bun.

Cooked to order and topped with seared cremini mushrooms, C OGFKWO HTKGF GII ITW[GTG EJGGUG EJKXG VTWHĆƒG CKQNK NGVVWEG and tomato on a toasted brioche bun.

Matt’s Burger $11.49 %QQMGF VQ QTFGT CPF VQRRGF YKVJ RGRRGT LCEM EJGGUG ETKUR[ onion straws, lettuce, tomato, and Marie Rose sauce on a toasted brioche bun.

The Miller $16.49

Our signature ž lb. hand-made burger. Topped with lettuce, tomato, onion straws, bacon, Swiss, cheddar, garlic sauce, and a creamy slaw, held together by a house made Rosemary potato bun.

The Chop House Burger $13.49

Matt’s Salad Sm $6.99/Lg $7.99

Cooked to order with Havarti cheese, Applewood smoked bacon, crisp fried onion, spinach, and the Miller’s steak sauce aioli.

Chicken Salad Plate $11.99

Beer-battered North Atlantic cod, served with cheddar cheese, tartar sauce, shredded lettuce, tomato, and red onion on a toasted brioche bun.

Our signature mixed green salad tossed in maple mustard vinaigrette and served with white cheddar, spiced walnuts, and dried apricots.

A generous serving of house made chicken salad with red grapes and served with fresh-cut fruit, a side Matt’s Salad, and crackers.

Shrimp Chopped Salad Sm $11.99/Lg $14.99

Chopped mixed greens tossed with red champagne vinaigrette, tomatoes, edamame, cucumbers, bacon, and crumbled goat cheese and topped with sautĂŠed shrimp and pomme frites.

North Atlantic Cod $13.49

Matt’s Favorites

Tavern Fish & Chips $15.49

Three pieces of beer-battered North Atlantic cod served with crispy fries, creamy coleslaw, and tartar sauce.

Shrimp & Grits $17.49

The Miller’s Original Flatbreads

White corn and cheddar grits cake topped with sautĂŠed shrimp, tasso ham, peppers, onions, and a ETGCO[ %CLWP UCWEG

Zesty avocado mousse topped with herb grilled chicken, Ć‚GT[ LCNCRGĂ?Q RGRRGTU CPF YJKVG EJGFFCT (KPKUJGF YKVJ C cool, crisp watermelon salsa.

Pork Tenderloin $19.49

Chicken & Watermelon Salsa $13.99

Pear & Gorgonzola $12.99

Creamy gorgonzola mousse topped with fresh roasted Asian pears, smoked provolone, mixed baby greens, raspberry vinaigrette and crispy fried tarragon.

Black & Bleu $14.99

Grilled beef tenderloin, roasted red pepper pesto, red onion, provolone, bleu cheese, and a Guinness reduction.

Crab Rangoon $15.99

Blue crab meat, sweet peppers, and tomato, with creamy ricotta ETGCO EJGGUG CPF Ć‚PKUJGF YKVJ UYGGV EJKNK CKQNK CPF crisp wonton strips.

Classic Margherita $11.99

Fresh, creamy mozzarella, sweet basil, sliced ripe plum tomatoes and parmesan cheese.

4 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8

10oz pork tenderloin marinated in our special blend of smoke seasonings. Grilled to your temperature, topped with applewhiskey sauce, and served with garlic mashed potatoes and fresh asparagus.

Roasted Chicken $17.49

Amish chicken, 100% natural and antibiotic free, is roasted and served with warm kale and ancient grain salad with roasted ECWNKĆƒQYGT GFCOCOG EJGTTKGU VQOCVQGU CPF VQCUVGF CNOQPFU CPF Ć‚PKUJGF YKVJ C NKIJV NGOQP butter sauce.

Shrimp & Sausage Baked Rigatoni $15.49

Jumbo shrimp and Italian sausage tossed with peppers and onions in a creamy scampi sauce. Topped with a 3-cheese blend and parmesan bread crumbs.

Steaks + Chops

All Steaks + Chops served with herbed butter and onion straws, and one side of your choice Sides – Mac & Cheese | Sweet Potato Fries | French Fries | Garlic Mashed Potatoes | Mixed Vegetables | Asparagus | Coconut Edamame Rice | Warm Kale Grain Salad | Matt’s Salad | Miller Salad

Kids Menu

Spinach & Artichoke Frittata $11.49

6YQ OKPK DWTIGTU UGTXGF YKVJ #OGTKECP EJGGUG HT[GT basket fries, and a pickle.

Bavarian Pretzel Bites $8.99

LITTLE KIDS – $5.99 Training Wheels Mac & Cheese

Matt’s Filet 6oz $26.49 | 9oz $33.49

Creamy house made mac & cheese.

The ultimate in tender and juicy perfection.

½ Grilled Cheese

8oz Wagyu Top Sirloin Beef $24.49

# ™ ITKNNGF EJGGUG YKVJ HT[GT DCUMGV HTKGU

Fluffy eggs baked with a blend of creamy spinach, CTVKEJQMGU CPF OQ\\CTGNNC UGTXGF YKVJ FTGUUGF petite greens.

9CTO UQHV $CXCTKCPsUV[NG RTGV\GNU FWUVGF YKVJ UGC salt; served with roasted garlic sauce and sweet & tangy mustard sauce.

Shrimp Chopped Salad $14.99

This cut from Snake River Farms has higher than average OCTDNKPI CPF KU KPVGPUGN[ ĆƒCXQTHWN YKVJ C TKEJ DGGH[ VCUVG

Matt’s Flatbread # JCNH UK\GF ĆƒCVDTGCF VQRRGF YKVJ OCTKPCTC CPF OQ\\CTGNNC

Mixed greens tossed with a red champagne vinaigrette, tomatoes, edamame, cucumbers, bacon and crumbled goat cheese; topped with sautĂŠed shrimp and pomme frites.

12oz CAB™ NY Strip $35.49

Mini Fish & Chips

House-made Chicken Salad $12.49

12oz Porterhouse Chop $21.49

Crispy Chicken Fingers

6JKU ĆƒCXQTHWN EWV QH DQPG KP RQTM HTQO 9JKVG /CTDNG Farms features the best of both worlds, with the tender and the loin.

Miller’s Kid Pasta

This premium lean steak is a classic, known for its marbling, VGPFGTPGUU CPF ĆƒCXQT

Ahi Poke Nachos $13.99

White meat chicken, breaded and UGTXGF YKVJ HT[GT DCUMGV HTKGU

Crispy fried wontons surround spicy ahi tuna, Asian slaw, FKEGF CXQECFQ CPF VQCUVGF UGUCOG UGGFU Ć‚PKUJGF YKVJ YCUCDK CKQNK CPF )WKPPGUU UQ[ TGFWEVKQP

Macaroni noodles topped with a choice of sauce: butter or marinara (add chicken $1)

Fresh Fish

Ahi Tuna Stack $17.99

Layers of crispy wontons, fresh avocado, ahi tuna poke, and RKEMNGF EWEWODGT Ć‚PKUJGF YKVJ YCUCDK CKQNK CPF )WKPPGUU soy reduction. Served with a petite Asian salad.

Pan Seared Walleye $22.99 # NKIJVN[ DTGCFGF Ć‚NGV EQXGTGF KP C RCPMQ ETWUV CPF VQRRGF YKVJ C UQ[ EKVTWU DWVVGT UCWEG 5GTXGF YKVJ ICTNKE OCUJGF potatoes and asparagus.

Asian Salmon $18.99 5CNOQP Ć‚NGV RCP UGCTGF CPF UGTXGF YKVJ UQ[ JQPG[ INC\G coconut edamame rice, and mixed vegetables.

Dessert

Classic Margherita Flatbread $11.99

BIG KIDS Hamburger $8.99

(TGUJ ETGCO[ OQ\\CTGNNC UYGGV DCUKN UNKEGF TKRG RNWO tomatoes, and parmesan cheese.

Topped with lettuce, tomato, and onion, and served with house made chips and roasted garlic sauce.

Make it a cheeseburger for $1 more.

Cheesy Mac & Chicken $6.99

This slice of lightly sweet cake has a smooth cream cheese icing and smells just like the Miller’s kitchen.

Big Fat Chocolate Cake $11.99

A heaping slice of moist, rich chocolate cake, topped YKVJ EJQEQNCVG KEKPI CPF C FTK\\NG QH TCURDGTT[ UCWEG

Warm Banana Bread Pudding $9.99

Cinnamon rolls, croissants and brioche bread baked in C ETGCO[ DCPCPC EWUVCTF 5GTXGF YKVJ YJKUMG[ ECTCOGN sauce, whipped cream, and vanilla ice cream.

New York Style Brulee Cheesecake $7.99 %TGCO[ QTKIKPCN EJGGUGECMG ĆƒCXQT YKVJ C ETWPEJ DTWNGG topping baked into a graham cracker crust and served YKVJ C FTK\\NG QH TCURDGTT[ UCWEG An Oreo brownie topped with cookies and cream icing, vanilla ice cream, Oreo cookie crumbles and chocolate sauce.

Black & Bleu Flatbread $14.99

Grilled beef tenderloin, roasted red pepper pesto, red onion, provolone, bleu cheese, and a )WKPPGUU UQ[ TGFWEVKQP

Ahi Tuna Flatbread $16.99

Grilled chicken tossed with creamy, house made macaroni and cheese, and served with a dinner roll.

Creamy miso mousse topped with avocado slices, Asian slaw, rare sliced ahi tuna, toasted sesame seeds, wasabi CKQNK CPF )WKPPGUU UQ[ TGFWEVKQP

Grilled Cheese Sandwich $7.99 Served with a cup of Tomato Basil Bisque.

Matt’s Burger $10.99

Fish Basket $10.99

Two pieces of battered North Atlantic cod served with house made chips and roasted garlic sauce.

Giant Carrot Cake $11.99

Oreo Explosion $8.99

A generous scoop of house made chicken salad with grapes, served with lettuce, tomato and alfalfa sprouts on a toasted Telera bun.

Fresh battered cod served YKVJ HT[GT DCUMGV HTKGU

5oz Top Sirloin $10.99

Topped with pepper jack cheese, crispy onion straws, lettuce, tomato, and Marie Rose sauce on a toasted brioche bun.

Fried Chicken Plate $15.49

Grilled to your temperature and served with your choice of side.

Hand battered chicken served with crispy fries and creamy coleslaw. Nashville Hot optional.

Lil’ Brady Brownie $3.99

Fish & Chips Plate $14.99

An Oreo brownie topped with cookies and cream icing, vanilla ice cream, Oreo cookie crumbles, and chocolate sauce.

Beer battered North Atlantic cod, served with crispy fries, creamy coleslaw, and tartar sauce.

Dessert Minis GCEJ QT C ĆƒKIJV QH HQT Carrot Cake | Chocolate Cake | Cheesecake | Oreo Brownie

A la carte brunch menu Available Sunday 10 am–2:30 pm

Kale Grain Bowl $10.49

A warm blend of kale & ancient grains, with roasted ECWNKĆƒQYGT GFCOCOG VQOCVQGU FTKGF EJGTTKGU CPF toasted almonds; in a light lemon butter sauce.

Add: Poached Egg 1 | Chicken 4 | Grilled Steak 5 | Salmon 6 | Sesame crusted Ahi Tuna 6 | Shrimp 6

Sunday Brunch Buffet, 10 am–2:30 pm Ă›iÀÞ -Ă•Â˜`>Ăž] i˜Â?ÂœĂž ÂœĂ•Ă€ LĂ€Ă•Â˜VÂ… LĂ•vviĂŒ vi>ĂŒĂ•Ă€ÂˆÂ˜} >˜ œ“iÂ?iĂŒ ĂƒĂŒ>ĂŒÂˆÂœÂ˜] L>Vœ˜] ĂƒVĂ€>“LÂ?i` i}}Ăƒ] Â…>ĂƒÂ… LĂ€ÂœĂœÂ˜Ăƒ] iÂ?}ˆ>˜ Ăœ>vyiĂƒ] i}}Ăƒ i˜i`ˆVĂŒ] vĂ€Âˆi` V…ˆVÂŽi˜] ÂœĂ•Ă€ >Ăœ>Ă€`Â‡ĂœÂˆÂ˜Â˜ÂˆÂ˜} -Â…Ă€ÂˆÂ“ÂŤ E Ă€ÂˆĂŒĂƒ] >ĂƒĂƒÂœĂ€ĂŒi` y>ĂŒLĂ€i>`Ăƒ] vĂ€iĂƒÂ… vĂ€Ă•ÂˆĂŒ] }ÂœĂ•Ă€Â“iĂŒ Ăƒ>Â?>`Ăƒ >˜` assorted desserts. Bring the kids for the Kids’ Favorites Buffet for guests under 10. The Crimson Cup Coffee Bar and the Ultimate Bloody Mary Bar round out brunch perfection.

ADULTS $21.95 | KIDS (4-10) $8.95 | KIDS 3 & UNDER FREE WITH PAYING ADULT Includes Crimson Cup Coffee Bar, Tea and Soft Drinks

BLOODY MARY BAR $8 | JUICE & MILK $2.75

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 4 1

195 East Freedom Way Cincinnati, OH 45202 (513) 263-1172 condadotacos.com

Hours

Open daily 11–2 am HAPPY HOUR Mon–Fri 4–7 pm

House Specialties

Build-your-own tacos paired with tequila and margaritas!

Entertainment No

Credit Cards All major

Attire Casual

Reservations No

Banquet Facilities No

Catering None

Children’s Menu No

Carryout Available Yes

Cigar Smoking Allowed No

Wheelchair Access Yes

Liquor Yes

4 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8

Appetizers

Lobster Poutine $10

Seasoned fries, lobster gravy, white cheddar cheese curds, Maine lobster

Smoked Fish Dip $9

Pistachio pesto, tomatoes, pita bread

Duck Fat Potatoes $8

Garlic, shallots, gribiche dipping sauce

Lobster Pops $12

4oz Butter Poached Deep Fried Lobster Tail

Jeff’s Crab Cakes $15

Two crispy spiced crab cakes, house remoulade, slaw

Soups or Salads

Add-ons for salads- lobster $10, Crab or Shrimp $5, Chicken $4

Lobster Bisque $8 | $12 Main lobster, cream sherry

Clam Chowder $7 | $10

Clams, potatoes, sweet yellow onions, celery

Kittery Salad $8

Mixed greens, snow peas, tomatoes, watermelon radish, pistachios, parmesan, orange saffron vinaigrette

Caesar Salad $8 Romaine, parmesan, house made Caesar dressing

Desserts

Dessert of the Month $7 Creme Brule $10 House made vanilla cream brule

Rolls

All Served on a toasted Sixteen Bricks Challah Bun

Royalty Roll $35 .QDUVGT ETCD UJTKOR VTWHĆƒG CKQNK HGPPGN UCNV DNCEM VTWHĆƒG UJCXKPIU ITGGP QPKQPU

Lobster BLT Roll $20

1/4 lb Maine lobster, applewood smoked bacon, lemon mayo, tomatoes

Maine Style $19

1/4 lb Maine lobster, celery, green onion, chilled lemon mayo

Connecticut Style $19 *QV ND /CKPG NQDUVGT RQCEJGF KP ENCTKĆ‚GF DWVVGT EGNGT[ ITGGP QPKQP

Crab Roll $14

Blue crab, green onion, sriracha mayo

Chipotle Shrimp $13

Shrimp, chipotle remoulade, lettuce, green onion

Chicken Salad-Roll $9

Free range chicken, crispy chicken skins

Veggie Roll $8

Local seasonal veggie mix, house made pickles

Sides

Lobster Mac & Cheese $8 | $12 ,Âœ>ĂƒĂŒi` >Ă•Â?ˆyÂœĂœiĂ€ $6 Smoked Potato Salad $6 Hen of the WoodsÂŽ Chips $2.5

Dinner Entrees

Served from 5pm until Close Daily

Surf & Turf $38

Allen BrothersÂŽ New York-strip steak and our fresh Maine lobster tail

Just the Turf $30

Allen BrothersÂŽ New York strip steak

28 W. Court St. Cincinnati, OH 45202 (513) 246-0184 courtstreetlobsterbar.com

Hours

Mon–Thurs 11 am–10 pm Fri & Sat 11 am–11 pm Closed Sunday

House Specialties

Court Street Lobster Bar specializes in East Coast seafood, with a focus on lobster! Our house specialties are our Maine and Connecticut style lobster rolls, lobster bisque, clam chowder, and our award winning lobster mac and cheese!

Entertainment No

Credit Cards

All major

Attire Casual

Capacity 60

Reservations Yes

Banquet Facilities No

Catering

On-site & off-site

Children’s Menu No

Carryout Available Yes

Cigar Smoking Allowed No

Wheelchair Access Yes

Liquor Yes

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 4 3

Fiery Hen Hot Chicken and Cold Spirits

Appetizers 26 W. Court St. Cincinnati, OH 4520 (513) 324-0556 w iÀÞ i V VÞ°V

Fried Green Tomatoes 6

Hours

Add Chicken +4 Add Brisket +5

/ÕiÃq/ ÕÀà ££q£Ó > À ££q£ > ->Ì £äq£ > -Õ £ä > q££ « ­`ÕÀ } v ÌL> Ãi>à ®] £ä > qÓ « ­ v ÌL> Ãi>à ®

House Specialties iÀÞ i ëiV > âià à ÕÌ iÀ v>Ài] Ü Ì ÃÌÀ } y Õi Vià vÀ >Ã Û i]

>À iÃÌ ] > ` Ƃ >L> >° / iÀi >Ài w Ûi ë Vi iÛi Ã Ì ÕÀ >Ã Û i Ì V i ] À> } } vÀ ` Ì ÕÀ à } >ÌÕÀi º iÃà 9 ÕÀ i>ÀÌ» ë Vi° / i iÀÞ i > à ÃiÀÛiÃ Ü }Ã] LÕÀ}iÀÃ] LÀ à iÌ] > ` à > iÃ Ü Ì > vÕ L>À Ì L>V Ì Õ«t

Entertainment

Messy Chips 8 Pimento Cheese Bites 6 Hot Chicken Dip 8

Chicken All chicken is brined and deep fried. It comes with your choice of spice, one side option, and is served with Custom Sixteen Bricks Bread and House Made Pickles. Know your spice level! No returns!

White Meat 9 Dark Meat 9 Half-Bird 13

9iÃ] iÀÞ i Ü ÃÌ >V ÕÃÌ V >ÀÌ ÃÌÃ 7i` iÃ`>Þ } ÌÃ

Whole Bird 19

Credit Cards

Wings by the Pound 12 per lb

Ƃ > À

Attire

>ÃÕ>

Sauces: Yellabelly, Knoxville Mild, Commodore Caliente, Nashville Hot, Bless Your Heart (xxxx Hot!)

Capacity 90

Reservations 9iÃ

Banquet Facilities

Catering " à Ìi E vv à Ìi

Children’s Menu

Carryout Available 9iÃ

Cigar Smoking Allowed

Sandwiches Hot Chicken Sandwich 9 BBQ Brisket Sandwich 10 Cornmeal Catfish Sandwich 10 The Hen Burger 12 Chickasaw Challenge 40

Wheelchair Access 9iÃ

Liquor 9iÃ

4 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8

For the Full Menu, Please visit www.FieryHenCincy.com

From the Charcuterie Bar %QODKPG CP[ VJTGG HQT QT Ć‚XG HQT

Gluten Free Bread $3

SNACKS

The 7 Hour Egg Hot Olives Warm Ricotta $4 Supplement

CHARCUTERIE

Duck Breast Ham Smoked Salmon Rilette Finocchiona Head Cheese

ARTISAN CHEESE Awe Brie

(UP) cow, KY

Cabbot Cheddar (P) cow, VT

Piper’s Pyramid (P) goat, IN

Mimi’s Smoked Blue (P) cow, KY

Urban Stead Tomme (P) cow, EWH

Starters

Mushroom Soup $8

Barley, thyme, crème fraiche

Charred Pear & Beet Salad 10 %JGGUG EWTFU YCVGTETGUU OCFJQWUG XKPGICT

Burnt Carrot Salad $12 #XQECFQ RKEMNGF QPKQP HGVC EKNCPVTQ VQCUVGF 2WORMKP UGGFU

Saffron Pappardelle $10 )NC\GF ECTTQVU VWUECP MCNG NGOQP RGEQTKPQ

Rock Shrimp & Corn Fritters $12 5JCXGF RCPEGVVC RKOGPVQ CKQNK

Flank Steak Tartare* $15 'II [QNM ETKUR[ UJCNNQV ITCKP OWUVCTF ITKNNGF VQCUV

Entrees

Seared Verlasso Salmon* $28 5CXQ[ ECDDCIG OCTDNG RQVCVQGU RKEMNGF OWUVCTF UGGFU

Grilled Hanger Steak* $34

Charred mushrooms, rye berries, plums, Taleggio fonduta

The Metropole Cheeseburger* $17 4GF QPKQP OCTOCNCFG UOQMGF DNGW KEGDGTI FKNN CKQNK

Duck Breast* $26 %QTP RWTGG UYKUU EJCTF RKEMNGF EJGTTKGU

Black Eyed Pea Scaffata $22 %JCTTGF DTQEEQNK RTGUGTXGF NGOQP DTQEEQNK RKUVQW

Marksbury Farms Pork Chop* $29

Sweet & sour onions, collard greens, nduja butter

Roasted Lemon Garlic Chicken $27 2QNGPVC RKEMNGF DTWUUGN URTQWVU CRRNG OQUVCTFC UCNUC XGTFG

Vegetables & Grains

Roasted Brussel Sprouts $7 &CVGU UOQMGF DWVVGT MQJNTCDK

Shaved Pears $7 6WTPKRU UOQMGF YCNPWVU YCVGTETGUU

>Ă•Â?ˆyÂœĂœiĂ€ $8 9KNF TKEG RKEMNGF TGF QPKQPU SWKPEG XKPCKITGVVG

Shishito Peppers $9 5QTIJWO FWMMCJ EJCTTGF NGOQP

Metropole

609 Walnut St. Cincinnati, OH 45202 metropoleonwalnut.com

Hours

BREAKFAST Mon–Fri 7–10 am Sat & Sun 7–9:30 am BRUNCH Sat & Sun 9:30 am–2 pm LUNCH Mon–Fri 11:30 am–2 pm DINNER Mon–Thurs 5:30–10 pm Fri & Sat 5:30–11 pm Sun 5–9:30 pm BAR HOURS Sun 10–12am Mon–Thurs 10–1 am Fri & Sat 10–1 am

House Specialties

Burnt carrot salad, with avocado, pickled onion, feta, cilantro, and toasted pumpkin seeds. Seasonal selection of craft cocktails and shrubs.

Entertainment No

Credit Cards

All major

Attire

Whatever you are comfortable in

Capacity 100

Reservations Yes

Banquet Facilities Yes

Catering On-site

Children’s Menu Yes

Carryout Available Yes

Cigar Smoking Allowed No

Wheelchair Access Yes

Liquor Yes

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 4 5

35 W. Fifth St. Cincinnati, OH 45202 (513) 421-9100 orchidsatpalmcourt.com

In addition to the seasonally changing standard menu, Orchids at Palm Court is pleased to present a special Taste of Orchids promotional menu

Hours

Open every evening, 5:30–10 pm

House Specialties

Chateaubriand with mousseline potatoes, seasonal vegetables and a duet of sauces presented tableside

Entertainment

Yes, live music in the Bar at Palm Court six nights a week

Credit Cards All major

Attire

Business Casual recommended

Capacity

“Taste of Orchids” Sunday through Thursday $45 First Course Smoked Salmon Croquette Potatoes, Pickled Vegetables and Horseradish Cream

OR Goat Cheese Panacotta Summer Tomato Salad and Balsamic Reduction

70

Reservations Yes

Banquet Facilities Yes

Catering On-site

Children’s Menu Yes

Carryout Available No

Cigar Smoking Allowed No

Wheelchair Access Yes

Liquor Yes

Entree Swordfish Roasted Swordfish, Angel Hair Pasta and Summer Vegetables Piperade Sauce

OR Roasted Chicken Truffle Whipped Mashed Potatoes, Asparagus Chicken Jus

Dessert Lemon and Fruit Sabayon Lemon and Limoncello Sabayon Assorted Red Berries

OR Chocolate Hazelnut Cheesecake Bourbon Chocolate Anglaise

Orchids at Palm Court in The Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza 35 West Fifth Street, Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 513-421-9100 * orchidsatpalmcourt.com

4 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8

Appetizers

Taziki Dip $4.99

Greek yogurt, cucumber, dill, and a hint QH NGOQP FGÆ‚PG VJKU TGHTGUJKPI ENCUUKE

Hummus $4.99 2WTGG QH EJKEM RGCU VCJKPK VQWEJ QH cumin and lemon juice

Spicy Pimento Cheese $5.49 )TCVGF UJCTR EJGFFCT OC[Q FKEGF TGF RGRRGTU CPF C JKPV QH 6CDCUEQ

Hummus Served Gluten-Free $5.99 5GTXGF YKVJ ECTTQVU EGNGT[ USWCUJ CPF UNKEGF EWEWODGTU

Hummus Trias $5.99 5KIPCVWTG JWOOWU UGTXGF VJTGG YC[U 1TKIKPCN $CUKN 2GUVQ CPF 4WUVKE 6QOCVQ

Whipped Feta (Limited Offer) $5.99

Limited-time appetizer combining feta, ETGCO EJGGUG OC[Q CPF CP CUUQTVOGPV QH URKEGU

/GFKVGTTCPGCP &GNK 5GTXGF YKVJ EJKRU CPF [QWT EJQKEG QH JGCNVJ[ UKFG

Grilled Chicken Roll-Up $7.99 9KVJ VQOCVQ CPF HGVC KP C ITKFFNGF ƃQWT VQTVKNNC CPF UGTXGF YKVJ HTGUJ UCNUC

Beef Tender $8.99 9KVJ ITKNNGF QPKQPU OGNVGF UYKUU CPF JQTUGTCFKUJ QP C -CKUGT DWP

Grilled Tilapia with Caper Dill Sauce $8.99 )TKNNGF CPF UGTXGF YKVJ VQOCVQ CPF NGVVWEG QP C -CKUGT DWP

Tomato Basil $7.49 (GVC VQOCVQGU HTGUJ DCUKN CPF $CUKN 2GUVQ 5CWEG ITKFFNGF QP YJGCV DTGCF

Grilled Chicken $7.99

Grilled Lamb Gyro $9.99

Grilled Cheese $3.99

6C\KMK UCWEG VQOCVQGU OKZGF NGVVWEG CPF ITKNNGF QPKQPU

#OGTKECP EJGGUG QP VQCUVGF buttermilk bread

5QWRU CPF 5CNCFU

*GCNVJ[ 5KFGU

Greek Lemon Chicken Soup $3.99 Soup and Salad $7.99 Greek Salad $7.29

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Monday-Chicken Portobello Sandwich $8.99

Mediterranean Salad $7.29

9KVJ 6QOCVQ %JWVPG[ #KQNK VQOCVQ CPF NGVVWEG QP C -CKUGT DWPF

(TGUJ OKZGF NGVVWEGU YKVJ ICTDCP\Q DGCPU TQCUVGF TGF RGRRGTU TGF QPKQPU FKEGF VQOCVQGU TQCUVGF RGECPU HGVC CPF JQOGOCFG DCNUCOKE XKPCKITGVVG #&& 6*' (1..19+0) 2416'+05 %JKEMGP ^ 6WTMG[ $TGCUV ^ .COD ^ $GGH 6GPFGT ^ *QOGOCFG %JKEMGP 5CNCF ^ 6KNCRKC ^ Shrimp $11.99 | Salmon $12.99

Chicken Salad and Company $9.99 *QOGOCFG EJKEMGP UCNCF RCKTGF YKVJ [QWT EJQKEG QH CP[ 2KOGPVQ %JGGUG ^ 2CUVC 5CNCF ^ 6QOCVQ %WEWODGT 5CNCF ^ (TGUJ %WV (TWKV

Grilled Veggie Plate $9.99 )TKNNGF \WEEJKPK USWCUJ TGF RGRRGTU TGF QPKQPU CURCTCIWU CPF VQOCVQGU YKVJ 6C\KMK 5CWEG UGTXGF QP C DGF QH DCUOCVK TKEG UCNCF OKZ CPF HGVC YKVJ DCNUCOKE XKPCKITGVVG

6C\KMKoU (GCUVU

9KVJ HGVC EJGGUG CPF ITKNNGF QPKQPU QP C -CKUGT DWP

5GTXGF YKVJ )TGGM UCNCF DCMGF RKVC EJKR CPF [QWT EJQKEG QH TQCUVGF PGY RQVCVQGU QT DCUOCVK TKEG

Spicy Pimento Cheese $7.49

Grilled Chicken Breast $10.49

9KVJ OKZGF NGVVWEG QP VQCUVGF buttermilk bread

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Homemade Chicken Salad $8.49

&CKN[ 5RGEKCNU

(TGUJ OKZGF NGVVWEG VQOCVQGU EWEWODGTU TQCUVGF TGF RGRRGTU TGF QPKQPU HGVC RGRRGTQPEKPK MCNCOCVC QNKXGU CPF )TGGM FTGUUKPI %JKEMGP ^ 6WTMG[ $TGCUV ^ .COD ^ $GGH 6GPFGT ^ *QOGOCFG %JKEMGP 5CNCF ^ 6KNCRKC ^ Shrimp $11.99 | Salmon $12.99

Grilled Beef Tender $11.99 5GTXGF YKVJ JQWUG OCFG JQTUGTCFKUJ UCWEG

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Tuesday-Roasted Pork Loin Sandwich $8.99 Wednesday-Spanakopita Roll-Up $8.99 )TKNNGF EJKEMGP HTGUJ URKPCEJ CPF HGVC KP C ITKFFNGF ƃQWT VQTVKNNC UGTXGF YKVJ HTGUJ UCNUC

Thursday-Taziki’s Taco $8.99 )TKNNGF VKNCRKC YKVJ ETWPEJ[ UNCY 5RKE[ *GTD 5CWEG CPF FKEGF VQOCVQGU KP C ƃQWT tortilla, topped with a lime

Friday thru Sunday-Taziki’s Signature Pasta $8.99 # DGF QH OKZGF NGVVWEGU YKVJ EQNF RGPPG RCUVC CPF ITKNNGF EJKEMGP VQUUGF KP QWT JQOGOCFG DCNUCOKE XKPCKITGVVG VQRRGF YKVJ VQOCVQGU HGVC CPF DCUKN

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Grilled Chicken Breast $29.99 Beef Tender $36.99 Herb-Roasted Pork Loin $34.99 Chargrilled Lamb $38.99 Side of Grilled Vegetables for 4 $6.99 Baklava $2.75

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Turkey Club Ciabatta $8.99

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Chocolate Chip Cookies $1.75 6YQ HTGUJ DCMGF EQQMKGU

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Grilled Chicken Gyro $8.49 6C\KMK UCWEG VQOCVQGU OKZGF NGVVWEG and grilled onion

Grilled Chicken Basil Pesto Gyro $8.49 *QOGOCFG DCUKN RGUVQ VQOCVQGU CPF HGVC

Grilled Veggie Gyro $7.99 2GUVQ CKQNK VQOCVQGU \WEEJKPK USWCUJ ITKNNGF TGF RGRRGTU ITKNNGF QPKQP CPF HGVC

Lamb and Skordalia Gyro $9.99 5MQTFCNKC UCWEG TQCUVGF TGF RGRRGTU CPF ITKNNGF QPKQPU

Grilled Beef Tender Gyro $8.99 6C\KMK UCWEG VQOCVQGU OKZGF NGVVWEG CPF ITKNNGF QPKQPU

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#VNCPVKE UCNOQP UGCUQPGF CPF chargrilled to perfection

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Grilled Shrimp $12.49 5GCUQPGF CPF ITKNNGF YKVJ NGOQP LWKEG DWVVGT CPF LWUV C VQWEJ QH DNCEMGPKPI UGCUQPKPI

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Sneaky Taziki $3.99

Coming Soon: -GPYQQF Hours

Mon–Sat 11 am–9 pm Sun 11 am–8 pm

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Taziki’s Mediterranean salad with grilled shrimp: A Taziki’s favorite, made with fresh mixed lettuces topped with a variety of crisp vegetables, roasted pecans, feta crumbles, dressed in our homemade balsamic vinaigrette and topped with fresh grilled shrimp.

Entertainment No

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Chargrilled Lamb $12.99

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West Chester

7841 Tylersville Rd. West Chester, OH 45069 (513) 898-2144 tazikiscafe.com

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Desserts

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9640 Mason-Montgomery Rd. Mason, OH 45040 (513) 234-9099

Dark Chocolate Cake $2.75 *QOGOCFG UGTXGF YKVJ 4KEJOQPF KEKPI

Attire Casual

Capacity

120 + outdoor patio

Reservations

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Soft Drinks and Iced Tea $2.19 Q\ HTGG TGÆ‚NNU

Bottled Water $1.99 Wine by the Glass or Bottle Draft Beer and a selection of Can/Bottle options

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Mediterranean Turkey Melt $4.50

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Grilled turkey and cheddar on griddled pita

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No Yes

Liquor No

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 4 7

Photographed by Marlene Rounds

A “Social Sippery” on Fourth Near Vine

Hours M-W: 4 pm - 12 am | Th: 4 pm - 1 am | F: 4 pm - 2:30 am S: 3 pm - 2:30 am | Sun: 3 pm - 8 pm

8 East Fourth Street | Cincinnati, OH — 45202 | (513) 381-4483

BIG CITY COOL Dining at Mita’s, Chef/ Owner José Salazar’s smart and sophisticated downtown spot, feels simultaneously virtuous and decadent.

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 5 1

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S DINING GUIDE IS COMPILED BY OUR editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit.

To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnatimagazine.com

KEY No checks unless specified.

AE American Express, DC Diners Club DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V

$ = Under $15 $$ = Up to $30 $$$ = Up to $49 $$$$ = $50 and up

AMERICAN THE BIRCH

On any given evening, guests nibble at spicy hummus served with French breakfast radishes and pita bread while sipping slightly spumante glasses of Spanish Txakolina. And while the dinner menu reads strictly casual at first glance—soups, salads, and sandwiches—the preparation and quality is anything but. An endive salad with candied walnuts, Swiss cheese, crispy bacon lardons, and an apple vinaigrette surpassed many versions of the French bistro classic. And both the Brussels sprouts and Sicilian cauliflower sides refused to play merely supporting roles. Both were sensational studies in the balance of sweet, spicy, and acidic flavors. 702 INDIAN HILL RD.,

TERRACE PARK, (513) 831-5678, THEBIRCHTP.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SUN. MCC. DS. $ BRONTË BISTRO

You might think this is a lunch-only spot where you can nosh on a chicken salad sandwich after browsing next door at Joseph-Beth Booksellers. But this Norwood eatery feels welcoming after work, too. The dinner menu features entrées beyond the rotating soup and quiche roster that’s popular at noon. Fried chicken? Check.

Quesadillas and other starters? Yep. An assortment of burgers? Present, including turkey and veggie versions.

Casual food rules the day but the surprise is Brontë Bistro’s lineup of adult beverages, which elevates the place above a basic bookstore coffeeshop. The regular drinks menu includes such mainstays as Hemingway’s Daiquiri, a tribute to the author who drank them (often to excess).

2692 MADISON RD., NORWOOD, (513) 396-8970. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $ BROWN DOG CAFÉ

If you haven’t had a plate of Shawn McCoy’s design set in front of you, it’s about time. Many of the menu’s dishes show his knack for the plate as a palette. A trio of stout day boat diver scallops—exquisitely golden from pan searing—perch atop individual beds of uniformly diced butternut squash, fragments of boar bacon, and shavings of Brussels sprout. The eye for detail and contrasts of colors and textures belongs to someone who cares for food.

1000 SUMMIT PLACE, BLUE ASH, (513) 794-1610, BROWNDOGCAFE.COM. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER MON–FRI, BRUNCH AND DINNER SAT, BRUNCH SUN. MCC, DS. $$ CABANA ON THE RIVER

Like a big outdoor picnic with a view of the serene hills of Kentucky and the Ohio River rolling by, this is one

= Named a Best New Restaurant March 2018.

Top 10

= Named a Best Restaurant March 2017.

of those places west-siders would rather the rest of Cincinnati didn’t know about. Its annual debut in late spring marks the official beginning of summer for many.

People flock to the Cabana for good food prepared well: grilled mahi-mahi sandwiches, pork barbecue, steak on a stick, Angus beef burgers, Italian and steak hoagies, white chicken chili, and interesting salads. While some of the fare is familiar pub grub, nothing is sub-standard.

Even potato chips are made in-house and seasoned with Cajun spices. 7445 FORBES RD., SAYLER PARK, (513) 941-

7442, CABANAONTHERIVER.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $ COPPIN’S

With wine on tap and an extensive local beer list, Coppin’s is an ideal place to meet for drinks. In addition to plenty of Kentucky bourbon, much of the produce, meat, and cheese comes from local growers and producers.

House-cured meat and cheese from Kenny’s Farmhouse populate the “Grand Mother Board,” which dresses up the main attractions with apple butter, pickles, fig jam, and mustard. The mussels—made with Storm golden cream ale from the Braxton Brewing Company and chorizo from Napoleon Ridge Farms in Gallatin County—were served with a peppery tomato sauce, perfect for sopping up with bread. The braised short rib with smoked Gouda grits was fall-apart good, with roasted vegetables and a nice bright bite of horseradish. The strip steak with béarnaise, truffled potatoes, and green beans is a well-executed take on a classic. 638 MADISON AVE., COVINGTON, (859) 905-6600,

HOTELCOVINGTON.COM/DINING/COPPINS. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ COZY’S CAFÉ & PUB

On a visit to England, Jan Collins discovered the “cozy” atmosphere of London restaurants built in historic houses. She brought that warm, comfortable feeling back to the United States in opening Cozy’s. Though the atmosphere in the restaurant is reminiscent of Collins’s London travels, the food remains proudly American. The produce in virtually every dish is fresh, seasonal, and flavorful. The 12-hour pork shank stands out with its buttery grits and root vegetable hash, along with a portion of tender meat. And when it comes down to the classics, from the biscuits that open the meal to carrot cake at the end, Cozy’s does it right. 6440 CINCINNATI DAYTON RD., LIBERTY TWP.,

(513) 644-9364, COZYSCAFEANDPUB.COM. DINNER TUES–SAT, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. $$$ CWC THE RESTAURANT

Founded by the sister duo behind the culinary multimedia platform Cooking with Caitlin, this eatery makes comfort food feel a notch more au cou-

5 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8

rant, imbuing a true family-friendly philosophy. Its burgers are topped with a generous ladle of gooey house-made cheddar sauce and served with handcut French fries that many a mother will filch from her offspring’s plate. Portions—and flavors—are generous, eliciting that feeling of being royally indulged. Similarly, every item on the Sunday brunch menu virtually dares you to go big or go home. Make a reservation for parties of more than four and plan to be spoiled rotten. Then plan to take a lengthy nap. 1517 SPRINGFIELD PIKE, WYOMING, (513) 407-3947,

CWCTHERESTAURANT.COM. DINNER FRI & SAT, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $ THE EAGLE OTR

The revamped post office at 13th and Vine feels cozy but not claustrophobic, and it has distinguished itself with its stellar fried chicken. Even the white meat was pull-apart steamy, with just enough peppery batter to pack a piquant punch. Diners can order by the quarter, half, or whole bird—but whatever you do, don’t skimp on the sides. Bacon adds savory mystery to crisp corn, green beans, and great northerns (not limas) in the succotash, and the crock of mac and cheese has the perfect proportion of sauce, noodle, and crumb topping. The Eagle OTR seems deceptively simple on the surface, but behind that simplicity is a secret recipe built on deep thought, skill, and love. 1342 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513)

802-5007. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS.MCC. $ EMBERS

The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asian-inspired (beef satay); fashionable ingredients are name-checked (micro-greens and black truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; beer-sodden American Wagyu beef sidles up to steaks of corn-fed prime; non-steak entrées (Chilean sea bass or seared scallops with wild mushroom risotto and roasted beets) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party. 8170 MONTGOMERY RD., MADEIRA, (513) 984-

8090, EMBERSRESTAURANT.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DC, DS. $$$ GREYHOUND TAVERN

Back in the streetcar days, this roughly 100-yearold roadhouse was at the end of the Dixie Highway line, where the cars turned around to head north.

The place was called the Dixie Tea Room then, and they served ice cream. The fried chicken came along in the 1930s, and they’re still dishing it up today.

Families and regulars alike pile in on Mondays and Tuesdays for the fried chicken dinner. While the juicy (never greasy) chicken with its lightly seasoned, crisp coating is the star, the side dishes—homemade biscuits, cole slaw, green beans, mashed potatoes, and gravy—will make you ask for seconds. Call ahead no matter what night you choose: There’s bound to be a crowd. Not in the mood for chicken? Choose from steaks, seafood, sandwiches, and comfort food options that include meatloaf and a Kentucky Hot Brown. Or just try the onion rings. You’ll wonder where onions that big come from. 2500 DIXIE HIGH-

WAY, FT. MITCHELL, (859) 331-3767, GREYHOUNDTAVERN. COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. MCC, DS. $$ MR. GENE’S DOGHOUSE

Cumminsville is home to arguably the best hot chili cheese mett and chocolate malt in Greater Cincinnati. A family owned business that began as a simple hot dog stand more than 50 years ago, Mr. Gene’s still attracts lines of loyal customers at its windows. Can’t stand the heat? Order the mild chili mett—more flavor, fewer BTUs. And if you still haven’t embraced Cincinnati-style coneys, try the Chicago-style hot dog with pickles, onions, relish, mustard, tomato, and celery salt; a barbecue sandwich;or wings (a sign pro-

claims “So hot they make the devil sweat”). Although the chocolate malt is the biggest seller, we love the $3.25 pineapple shake, made with real pineapple.

3703 BEEKMAN ST., SOUTH CUMMINSVILLE, (513) 541-7636, MRGENESDOGHOUSE.COM. OPEN FEB–DEC FOR LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT. MC, V. $ THE NATIONAL EXEMPLAR

The classics are here—prime rib with horseradish and au jus; liver and onions; an eight-ounce filet with bernaise—plus some new favorites, including the spring lamb lasagna. Or have breakfast, English-style: fried eggs, bacon, sausage, stewed beans, roasted tomatoes, and buttered toast. The dinner menu also features burgers, risotto, pasta, seafood, and plenty more lighter options. 6880 WOOSTER PIKE, MARIEMONT, (513) 271-2103,

NATIONALEXEMPLAR.COM. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$ THE NORTHSTAR CAFÉ

In Northstar’s first outpost beyond the Greater Columbus area, the space itself reflects the ethos of the food: warm and comfortable, but still modern and fresh. The dinner and cocktail menus are fab, as is the large bar.

But breakfast is worth waking up early for. Take the mushroom frittata, made with meaty mushrooms, caramelized sweet onions, and Gruyère. The portions are no joke—that frittata comes with breakfast potatoes and a dense, perfectly crumbly-but-moist housemade biscuit—yet it doesn’t feel gluttonous or excessive. In large part that’s due to the freshness (e.g., the sausage made in-house daily) and the abundance of healthy options.

One of our favorites: the shooting star juice, a balanced blend of carrot, ginger, orange, and lemon. 7610 SLOAN

WAY, LIBERTY TOWNSHIP, (513) 759-0033, THENORTHSTARCAFE. COM. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ ORCHIDS AT PALM COURT

The food lives up to its Art Deco environs, matching it in elegance, craftsmanship, and a kind of delightfully over-the-top luxuriousness. The smoked sturgeon is an example of how a classic concept can retain its essential character while gaining elegance and complexity. Each layer—the creamy sturgeon, a tomato gelée, and a cauliflower tapenade—adds a new dimension, and the dish evolves with each bite, without ever losing the center smokiness of the sturgeon. Yes, it is expensive—but you will get something special for your money. 35 W. FIFTH Top 10

ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 421-9100, ORCHIDSATPALMCOURT.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS, DC. $$$ OTTO’S

Chef/owner Paul Weckman opened Otto’s, named after his father-in-law, with $300 worth of food and one employee—himself. Weckman’s food is soothing, satisfying, and occasionally, too much of a good thing.

His tomato pie is beloved by lunch customers: Vineripe tomatoes, fresh basil, and chopped green onions packed into a homemade pie shell, topped with a cheddar cheese spread, and baked until bubbly.

Weckman’s straightforward preparations are best.

The sauteed tilapia in lemon caper butter sauce with fingerling potatoes and roasted asparagus is elegant in its subtlety; an apricot-glazed duck breast served with Brussles sprouts and a squash-prosciutto risotto summons the peasant comfort of the French countryside. This is, at its heart, a neighborhood restaurant, a place with its own large, quirky family. 521 MAIN ST.,

COVINGTON, (859) 491-6678, OTTOSONMAIN.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER SEVEN DAYS, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. MCC. $$ POSTMARK

Chef Brad Bernstein learned his craft well at Oakley’s Red Feather, with his second restaurant focused on Old World classics marked by subtlety and restraint. The wine list is notable for its reliability, from off-menu pours, such as Château Ducasse Bordeaux Blanc, to the Brocard Chablis, an organic wine that is nicely balanced and subtle. Several dishes show Postmark’s ability to keep learning and growing. Al dente du Puy lentils complement soft, fatty duck, with a swirl of sauce on the plate poised between sweet and spicy. The Steak Diane is served with a crispy cloud of frizzled leeks

(a Red Feather staple), and the chicken, with its capers and creamy grits, shows what “farmhouse refined” can be at its best. The bourbon pecan pie is the perfect way to end a good meal. 3410 TELFORD ST., CLIFTON, (513)

281-3663, POSTMARK.RESTAURANT. DINNER TUES–FRI, SUN; BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$$ PUTZ’S CREAMY WHIP

When your tongue touches the frozen white Nirvana on top of a Putz’s cone, every moment of every joy of every summer of your life is condensed into one simple swipe. It’s the sweetness, the creaminess, the cloud-like texture. I dare you to close your eyes, taste it, and not think of your first summer love, or getting invited to the new neighbor’s pool on the second day of August. Putz’s coneys are also very popular. But it’s the simplicity of vanilla on a cone that has made this place. When I-74 was being built, the expressway would have landed three feet from Putz’s back door. As bizarre as this sounds, the U.S. Department of Transportation actually moved the freeway for Putz’s. They do that kind of thing for holy shrines. 2673 PUTZ PLACE, WESTWOOD, (513) 681-8668,

PUTZSCREAMYWHIP.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS, SEASONALLY. CASH. $ QUATMAN CAFÉ

The quintessential neighborhood dive, Quatman’s sits in the shadow of the Our Lady of the Holy Spirit Center, serving up a classic bar burger. Look elsewhere if you like your burger with exotic toppings: This half-pound of grilled beef is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle. Sometimes cheese. The no-frills theme is straightforward and appealing. A menu of standard sandwich fare and smooth mock turtle soup; beer on tap or soda in cans (no wine or liquor); and checkered tablecloths, serving baskets, and plenty of kitsch is served daily. Peppered with regulars, families, political discussions, and the occasional fool, Quatman’s is far from fancy. But it is fun, fast, and delicious.

2434 QUATMAN AVE., NORWOOD, (513) 731-4370, QUATMANCAFE.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT. MC, V. $ RED FEATHER KITCHEN

Historically peasant-grade cuts of meat get the full Pygmalion treatment at Red Feather in Oakley, where there’s deep respect for the time and tending necessary to bring a short rib, pork chop, or hanger steak to its full potential.

After a quick sear to lock in juices, the steak takes a turn in the wood-fired oven. While primal cuts play a leading role, the supporting cast is just as captivating. The hot snap of fresh ginger in the carrot soup was especially warming on a winter evening and the crispy skin on the Verlasso salmon acts as the foil to the plump, rich flesh.

Service here only improves the experience. 3200 MAD-

ISON RD., OAKLEY, (513) 407-3631, REDFEATHERKITCHEN.COM. DINNER TUES–SUN, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ RED ROOST TAVERN

At its best, Red Roost Tavern—located in the Hyatt Regency, downtown—meets its singular challenge with verve: offering a locally sourced sensibility to an increasingly demanding dining public while introducing out-of-town guests to unique Cincinnati foods. Take the goetta, rich pork capturing the earthiness of the steel-cut oats, served as a hash with sweet potatoes and poached eggs.

The seasoning added a restrained, almost mysterious hint of black pepper. But the kitchen’s talent seems straightjacketed. Chefs thrive on instincts not covered by the five senses; restaurants thrive by taking careful risks. Red Roost seems to be struggling to find its third eye, and sometimes the entrées don’t live up to their ambitions. 151 W. FIFTH ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 354-4025.

BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC,DS. $$ RON’S ROOST

They stake their reputation on their fried chicken, serving 10,000 pieces weekly. It takes a few minutes, since each batch is made to order. Ron’s also serves chicken 18 other ways, including pizza chicken quesadillas and chicken livers in gravy. It’s all about the chicken here, but that’s not all they have. The menu is five solid pages of stuff good enough to be called specialties: Oktoberfest sauerbraten, Black Angus cheeseburgers, fried whitefish on

rye, hot bacon slaw, lemon meringue pie (homemade, of course), and the best Saratoga chips this side of Saratoga.

3853 RACE RD., BRIDGETOWN, (513) 574-0222, RONSROOST. NET. BREAKFAST SUN, LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$ THE SCHOOLHOUSE RESTAURANT

An old flag stands in one corner and pictures of Abe Lincoln and the first George W. hang on the wall of this Civil War–era schoolhouse. The daily menu of familiar Midwestern comfort fare is written in letter-perfect cursive on the original chalkboard. Once you order from a woman who bears an uncanny resemblance to your high school lunch lady, the elevated lazy Susan in the center of the table begins to fill up with individual bowls and baskets of cornbread, slaw, salad, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, and vegetables. The deal here is quantity.

More mashed potatoes with your fried chicken? More cornbread with your baked ham? You don’t even have to raise your hand. 8031 GLENDALE-MILFORD RD., CAMP

DENNISON, (513) 831-5753, THESCHOOLHOUSECINCINNATI.COM. LUNCH THURS & FRI, DINNER THURS–SUN. MCC, DS. $ SUGAR N’ SPICE

This Paddock Hills diner has been dishing up wispythin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals. Breakfast and lunch offerings mix old-hat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line.

4381 READING RD., PADDOCK HILLS, (513) 242-3521, SUGARN-SPICE-RESTAURANT.COM, BREAKFAST AND LUNCH SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $ SYMPHONY HOTEL & RESTAURANT

Tucked into a West 14th Street Italianate directly around the corner from Music Hall, this place feels like a private dinner club. There’s a preferred by-reservation policy.

Check the web site for the weekend’s five-course menu, a slate of “new American” dishes that changes monthly.

You can see the reliance on local produce in the spring vegetable barley soup. Salads are interesting without being busy, and the sorbets are served as the third course palate cleanser. Main courses of almond crusted mahi mahi, flat-iron steak, and a vegetable lasagna hit all the right notes, and you can end with a sweet flourish if you choose the chocolate croissant bread pudding. 210 W.

14TH ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 721-3353, SYMPHONYHOTEL. COM. DINNER THURS–SAT, BRUNCH SUN. $$$ TANO BISTRO

Gaetano Williams’s Loveland bistro is comfortable, with reasonably priced food and amenable service. The menu is tidy—25 or so dishes divided between appetizers, salads, and entrées, plus a chalkboard featuring two or three dishes—its flavor profile heavily influenced by a childhood growing up in a third generation Italian family. Most of Tano Bistro’s main courses lean toward the comfortable side of American. For instance, Williams serves a well-seasoned and flavorful seared duck and potato-crusted chicken. The simple roast chicken is also worth a trip to Loveland, sweetly moist beneath its crisp bronze skin.

204 W. LOVELAND AVE., LOVELAND, (513) 683-8266, FOODBYTANO.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ TELA BAR + KITCHEN

Classically conceived but casually executed comfort food, including mini-Monte Cristo sandwiches with tangy house-made pimento cheese stuffed into sourdough bread and fried crisp, mac and cheese topped with a Mr. Pibb–braised short rib, and steak frites.

Servers are slightly scattered, yet enthusiastic and friendly, with a good grasp of the beverage program.

1212 SPRINGFIELD PK., WYOMING, (513) 821-8352, TELABARANDKITCHEN.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SAT, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ TERRY’S TURF CLUB

Terry—as in Terry Carter, former owner of Neon’s in Overthe-Rhine—makes one of the best burgers in the region.

You’ve probably never had a burger quite like it. Terry’s

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 5 3

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT serves Black Angus patties with a choice of toppings that include foie gras, roasted red pepper and goat cheese sauce, and a delicious burgundy wine reduction with wild mushrooms and truffles. These are colossal, two-handed, messy things best accompanied by a case of shop towels.

Less sloppy but just as delicious are the plump and juicy pork-loin sandwich (get it with the chili mélange sauce), or the shiitake or portobello sandwiches, or the succulent grilled halibut. And the fresh-cut fries go well with beer, wine, or a martini. The interior is a kaleidoscopic wonderland of old neon signs, vintage beer posters, and 1950s Bevador coolers that look like giant, neon-topped, beerstuffed bottles. The place is a visual feast, and the staff is friendly and accommodating. You’d expect a place like this to be busy, and it is. Get here early, or be prepared to wait. 4618 EASTERN AVE., EAST END, (513) 533-4222. LUNCH

AND DINNER WED–SUN. MC, MCC, DS, V. $ TRIO

Trio is nothing if not a crowd pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or filet mignon (with side salad, garlic mashed potatoes, and seasonal veggies), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple Roma tomato pizza with basil, Parmesan, and provolone delivered a fine balance of crunchy crust, sharp cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet. 7565 KENWOOD RD., KENWOOD,

(513) 984-1905, TRIOBISTRO.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DC. $$$ TUCKER’S RESTAURANT

Joe Tucker has done a marvelous job of running a de facto Swiss Embassy in the volatile heart of Over-the-Rhine.

Joe is possibly Cincinnati’s premiere fry cook. He has the ability to make a turkey club magical, where you have to stop after each bite and let your mouth recover from the overwhelming conjugality of yum. Until you’ve tried it, you just wouldn’t think that a curried tuna salad sandwich could be a mystical experience. Tucker’s is surprisingly vegetarian friendly too, with Joe’s meatless twists on greasy-spoon standards. Nice to see that the magic the Tucker family has practiced at this place for more than 70 years is strong enough to weather the worst and that Tucker’s remains the friendliest little place on Vine.

1637 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 954-8920. BREAKFAST AND LUNCH TUES–SUN. V, MC $

NEWPORT, (859) 261-9675, YORKSTONLINE.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC, DS. $$

BARBECUE ELI’S BBQ

Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the Mason-Dixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights— feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-your-own, and the barbecue is bona fide. 3313

RIVERSIDE DR., EAST END, (513) 533-1957, ELISBARBEQUE.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $ PONTIAC BBQ

Dan Wright’s BBQ dream comes to life in a honky-tonkish setting, delivering inexpensive barbecue that draws from multiple traditions—Kansas City, Memphis, and Texas—a few basic sides (bacon-and-pickled-jalapeño-topped white grits and a silky mac-and-cheese), and plenty of bourbon. Snack on fried pickles or smoked wings, then move on to brisket (both fatty and lean), pulled pork, and smoked-on-the-bone short ribs. This is ridiculously high-quality comfort food at a friendly price point. 1403

VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 579-8500, PONTIACBBQ.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SUN, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ WALT’S HITCHING POST

A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-fired in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quickseared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft flesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s house-made tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together. 3300 MADISON PIKE, FT. WRIGHT, (859) 360-

2222, WALTSHITCHINGPOST.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$

THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ

Todd Hudson, the chef and owner of The Wildflower Café built his entire menu around organic and local food. Located in the older section of downtown Mason in a century-old house that occupies a wide corner lot at East Main Street and Kings Mills Road, Hudson serves up well-presented, uncomplicated food that’s modest and nourishing. There is fresh fish of the day; burgers on pretzel buns with shaved onions and double-smokedbacon. There’s an eclectic collection of entrées from quiche to beef du Jour, vegan vegetable curry to chicken and waffles. The attention and care for handmade is apparent. “I never thought about doing anything else,” Hudson says. “It’s not a trend. It’s the past, and the future.”

207 E. MAIN ST., MASON, (513) 492-7514, WILDFLOWERGOURMETCAFE.COM. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER TUES–SUN. MCC, DS. $$ YORK STREET CAFÉ

Five blocks from the Newport riverfront, Terry and Betsy Cunningham have created the sort of comfortable, welcoming environment that encourages steady customers. A dependable menu and quirky atmosphere appeal to a broad range of diners, from non-adventurousvisiting relatives to non-attentive children. Desserts have always been one of the stars: flourless chocolate hazelnut torte, bittersweet, rich and moist; butter rum pecan cakethat would be equally at home on a picnic table or a finely dressed Michelin-starred table. 738 YORK ST.,

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN DEE FELICE CAFÉ

To call Dee Felice Café a jazz supper club would be too conventional. Though the waitstaff in white shirt and tie are more formally dressed than most of the diners, the atmosphere is decidedly casual. The music and menu are still true to the original spirit of Emidio DeFelice, a drummer and bandleader who opened the restaurant in 1984 to create a jazz venue that he and his fellow musicians could relax in and enjoy a meal. It made sense to feature cuisine from the birthplace of jazz, New Orleans, and the Cajun and Creole dishes of southern Louisiana still dominate the menu, though there are a few Italian dishes, as well as steaks (the most consistently well-executed dishes on the menu) and salads. The joint is most definitely still jumpin’. 529 MAIN ST., COVINGTON, (859) 261-

2365, DEEFELICECAFE.COM. DINNER WED–MON. MCC, DC, DS. $$ SWAMPWATER GRILL

At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an

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appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, and catfish Po’Boys, as well as a selection of hardwood-smoked meats. 3742 KELLOGG AVE., EAST

END, (513) 834-7067, SWAMPWATERGRILL.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER WED–SUN, BRUNCH FRI–SUN. MCC.$$ KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU

The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure.

And you’ll start planning your return trip. 6302 LICKING

PKE., COLD SPRING, (859) 781-2200, LETSEAT.AT/KNOTTYPINE. DINNER TUES–SUN. MCC, DS. $$

CHINESE AMERASIA

A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Pot stickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand-shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, tofu, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodle, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts. 521 MADISON AVE., COVINGTON, (859)

261-6121. LUNCH SUN–FRI, DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $ CHINESE IMPERIAL INN

The chilies-on-steroids cooking here will have you mopping beads of garlic-laced sweat from your brow.

The musky, firecracker-red Mongolian chicken stabilizes somewhere just before nirvana exhaustion, and aggressively pungent shredded pork with dried bean curd leaves your eyes gloriously glistening from its spicy hot scarlet oil. Even an ice cold beer practically evaporates on your tongue. Do not fear: not all the dishes are incendiary. Try the seafood—lobster, razor clams, Dungeness and blue crabs, whelk, and oysters—prepared with tamer garlicky black bean sauce, or ginger and green onions. The Cantonese wonton soup, nearly as mild as your morning bowl of oatmeal, is as memorable as the feverish stuff. Sliced pork and shrimp are pushed into the steaming bowl of noodles and greens just before serving.

Think comforting, grandmotherly tenderness. 11042

READING RD., SHARONVILLE, (513) 563-6888, CHINESEIMPE RIALINN.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MC, V, DS. $ HOUSE OF SUN

Ask the gracious Taiwanese gentleman who welcomes you for the Chinese menu. He’ll gleefully grab the real menu, which commences a ballet of smoky, spicy sliced conch; thick handmade noodles soaking up rich, nostril-searing beef stock; and crispy pork ears arranged like flower petals on the plate (think of fine Italian prosciutto). The real stars of the menu are the chicken dishes: smoked with skin brittle as caramelized sugar; salty with ginger oil for dipping; and the popular Taiwanese “Three Cup” chicken made by cooking the bird with a cup each of soy sauce, water, and wine. Served with an audible crack-

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Pinecroft Mansion at Crosley Estate Exclusively by Funky’s Catering Events Now Scheduling Tours PinecroftMansion.com | (513) 841-9999

Photo credits: Kortnee Kate, Amber Dawson

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT le, it’s robustly flavored with ginger—at once subtle, bold, sweet, and superb. 11959 LEBANON RD., SHARONVILLE,

pickled cucumber. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors. 8300 MARKET PLACE

ORIENTAL WOK

RAYMOND’S HONG KONG CAFÉ

(513) 769-0888, HOUSEOFSUNCINCY.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SUN. DS, MC, V. $$

This is the restaurant of your childhood memories: the showy Las Vegas-meets-China decor, the ebulliently comedic host, the chop sueys, chow meins, and crab rangoons that have never met a crab. But behind the giant elephant tusk entryway and past the goldfish ponds and fountains is the genuine hospitality and warmth of the Wong family, service worthy of the finest dining establishments, and some very good food that’s easy on the palate. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, sea bass, and halibut steamed, grilled, or flash fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger–green onion sauce that accompanies them. Even the chicken lo mein is good.

It may not be provocative, but not everyone wants to eat blazing frogs in a hot pot. 317 BUTTERMILK PKE.,

FT. MITCHELL, (859) 331-3000; 2444 MADISON RD., HYDE PARK, (513) 871-6888, ORIENTALWOK.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI (FT. MITCHELL; BUFFET SUN 11–2:30), LUNCH TUES–SAT (HYDE PARK), DINNER MON–SAT (FT. MITCHELL) DINNER TUES–SUN (HYDE PARK). MCC. $$ THE PACIFIC KITCHEN

The monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Fried Chicken. These slightly bubbly, shatter-crisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang pepper sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful, especially the strips of lightly

LANE, MONTGOMERY, (513) 898-1833, THEPACIFIC.KITCHEN. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS; DIM SUM SAT & SUN. MCC. $$

It has all the elements of your typical neighborhood Chinese restaurant: Strip mall location. General Tso and kung pao chicken. Fortune cookies accompanying the bill. The dragon decoration. But it is the nontraditional aspects of Raymond’s Hong Kong Café that allow it to stand apart. The menu goes beyond standard Chinese fare with dishes that range from Vietnamese (beef noodle soup) to American (crispy Cornish hen). The Portuguese-style baked chicken references Western European influences on Chinese cuisine with an assemblage of fried rice, peppers, carrots, broccoli, zucchini, and squash all simmering together in a creamy bath of yellow curry sauce. Deciding what to order is a challenge, but at least you won’t be disappointed. 11051 CLAY DR., WALTON, (859)

485-2828. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ SHANGHAI MAMA’S

This 1920s Asian noodle house—complete with dark woodwork and bird cages—offers big bowls of noodle soups, rice bowls, and crunchy, traditional salads. The noodle bowl selections are the most popular, with everything from spicy chicken to Shanghai ribs, shrimp to tofu, and orange duckling to wild mushrooms. Try the Shanghai flatbreads, a “pancake” with different toppings and tangy dipping sauce. You’ll find the downtown professional crowd during the day, but come weekend nights Shanghai Mama’s is bright lights big city with after-theater diners, restaurant staff, and bar patrons socializing and slurping noodle soups until the wee morning hours. 216

E. SIXTH ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 241-7777, SHANGHAIMAMAS.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER MON–SAT. MCC. $$

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SICHUAN BISTRO CHINESE GOURMET

Like many Chinese restaurants that cater to both mainstream American and Chinese palates, this strip mall gem uses two menus. The real story here is found in dishes of pungent multi-layered flavors that set your mouth ablaze with fermented peppers and fresh chilies and then just as quickly cool it down with the devilish, numbing sensation of hua jiao, Sichuan pepper. Its numbing effect is subtle at first: appetizers of cold sliced beef and tripe, as well as slices of pork belly with a profusion of minced garlic, lean toward the hot and sweet; mapo tofu freckled with tiny fermented black beans and scallions, and pork with pickled red peppers and strips of ginger root, progress from sweet to pungent to hot to salty—in that order. Alternated with cooling dishes—nibbles of rice, a verdant mound of baby bok choy stir-fried with a shovelful of garlic, refreshing spinach wilted in ginger sauce, a simply sensational tea-smoked duck—the effect is momentarily tempered. 7888 S. MASON

MONTGOMERY RD., MASON, (513) 770-3123, SICHUANBISTRO.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SUN. MCC, DS. $$ SUZIE WONG’S ON MADISON

A few items on the menu resemble those that were once served at Pacific Moon, such as laub gai and Vietnamese rolls, both variations of lettuce wraps. For the laub gai, browned peppery chicken soong (in Cantonese and Mandarin, referring to meat that is minced) is folded into leaf lettuce with stems of fresh cilantro and mint, red Serrano peppers, a squeeze of lime juice, and a drizzle of fish sauce.

In the Vietnamese roll version, small cigar-sized rolls stuffed with chicken and shrimp are crisp fried and lettuce wrapped in the same manner. The Pan-Asian menu also includes Korean kalbi (tenderific beef ribs marinated and glazed in a sweet, dark, sesame soy sauce) and dolsat bibimbap, the hot stone bowl that’s a favorite around town. 1544

MADISON RD., EAST WALNUT HILLS, (513) 751-3333, SUZIEWONGS. COM. LUNCH TUES–SAT, DINNER TUES–SUN. MCC, DS. $$

UNCLE YIP’S

Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 260 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs. 10736 READING RD., EVENDALE, (513) 733-8484, UN-

CLEYIPS.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DISCOUNT FOR CASH. $$ YAT KA MEIN

This noodle house caters to our inner Chinese peasant. Yat Ka Mein offers humble, everyday Cantonese dishes of egg noodles, tasty dumplings packed with shrimp or pork, fresh veggies, and chicken broth. Almost begrudgingly the menu includes popular American-style Chinese dishes, like the ubiquitous sweet and sour chicken, Moo Goo Gai Pan, roast duck, and so forth. But what makes the place unique are less familiar dishes like Dan Dan noodles, a spicy, sweat-inducing blend of garlic, chili peppers, and ground chicken marinated in chili sauce. 2974 MADISON RD., OAKLEY, (513)

321-2028, YATKAMEIN.BIZ. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $

ECLECTIC ABIGAIL STREET

From the saffron-infused bouillabaisse to the grilled octopus with merguez sausage, the dishes share strong Middle Eastern roots while remaining entirely individual. As the small dishes fill the table, a Top 10

fascinating flavor conversation quickly develops. Try the housemade ricotta with thyme, honey, and bread— homey, simple, and yet so deeply satisfying that it’s hard to believe it’s not on every table in town. With brisk and knowledgeable service, consistently excellent wine (try the Paul Dolan sauvignon blanc!), and reasonable prices, this is the place to take out-of-town friends who remain dubious about the city’s restaurant scene. 1214 VINE

ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 421-4040, ABIGAILSTREET.COM. DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC, DS. $$ BAUER FARM KITCHEN

A little off the beaten path, this restaurant serves traditional-sized entrées, but its menu is dominated by smaller plates, meant to be shared.

The primary ingredient here is time: The cook takes cheap, less desirable cuts of meat, plus fresh, plentiful, in-season vegetables, and then adds time and natural processes to make them delicious—think fermentation, curing, and braising. The restaurant aims to get most of its vegetables and meat from within 25 miles. Its spaetzle gratin—like a dreamy, half-dissolved mac-and-cheese— and currywurst paired with potato salad and housemade sauerkraut bring us back to our German roots. 435

ELM ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 621-8555, BAUERCINCINNATI.COM. DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC. $$$ BOCA

While the food and service remain in the spotlight year after year, Boca’s setting makes you feel like the star of the show. Nickel-thin double-fried pommes soufflés and a glass of Txakolina rosé or a frothy Estate Sale cocktail are a perfect overture while savoring Boca’s seasonal menu. Cacio e pepe risotto, a twist on Rome’s classic pasta dish, is full of savory pecorino and black pepper heat, but notes of mint and sweet pea ring through. Plank-cooked sea bass arrives tender and Top 10

flaky beneath perfectly crisp skin. Bavette con bottarga, ribbons of pasta topped with salty dried fish roe, hits the umami button with robust flavor and subtle spice. 114 E.

SIXTH ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 542-2022, BOCACINCINNATI.COM. DINNER MON–SAT. MCC, DS. $$$ BOUQUET RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

Cozy, off the beaten path, and with a menu touched with a lovable Southern drawl, right down to the bourbon-centric cocktails, it verily announces “Come on back, y’all.”

You definitely want to start with the “motherboard,” a selection of five cheeses, four cured meats, and plenty of accompaniments—stuffed peppadews, warm olives, mustards, jams, pistachio relish, and seven (!) types of pickles. Expect the highest quality cuts and wedges, all knowledgeably identified by the cheerful and attentive staff. Favorites include forest ham from Louisville’s Woodlands Pork, smoked picnic ham from Eckerlin Meats, and cheeses from Kenny’s Farmhouse Cheese near Bowling Green, Kentucky. Wild-caught blue catfish from Western Kentucky’s Lake Barkley had a meatier texture and stronger flavor than your average bottom dweller, and the sorghum-glazed Marksbury Farm pork belly was juicy and surprisingly light. 519 MAIN ST., COV-

INGTON, (859) 491-7777, BOUQUETRESTAURANT.COM. DINNER MON–SAT. MCC, DS. $$ BREWRIVER GASTROPUB

Twenty-three taps line the antique mahogany bar back.

The ales appears frequently throughout the locally focused menu: in the battered fresh cod for the fish and chips, in the chicken liver pâté, in the vinaigrette dressing for the house salad. Try the barbecue shrimp—redolent with red pepper, garlic, and butter—or the curried beef short rib poutine, featuring Thai green curry beef short rib gravy over hand-cut fries with local cheese curds.

4632 EASTERN AVE., EAST END, (513) 861-2484, BREWRIVER

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DOWNTOWN 301 E 4th Street Cincinnati, OH 513-655-6707

OAKLEY 3240 Vandercar Way Cincinnati, OH 513-285-8802

KENWOOD 7677 Montgomery Rd. Cincinnati, OH 513-655-5300

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 5 7

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT GASTROPUB.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SUN, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ CHÉ

This Walnut Street spot draws on authenic Argentine recipes, including the empanadas. Choose from at least a dozen different crispy, perfectly cinched dough pockets, with fillings ranging from traditional (a mixture of cumin-spiced beef, egg, and olives) to experimental (mushrooms and artichokes drenched in béchamel).

There are also six different dipping sauces to choose from, but you need not stray from the house chimichurri.

It complements practically every item on the menu, but particularly the grilled meats, another Argentinian staple. Marinated beef skewers and sausages are cooked on an open-flame grill, imparting welcome bits of bitter char to the juicy meat. 1342 WALNUT ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513)

345-8838, CHECINCINNATI.COM. LUNCH TUES–FRIDAY, DINNER SEVEN DAYS, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. MCC. $$ COMMONWEALTH BISTRO

Everything from the old jukebox by the entrance to the sepia-toned rabbit-and-pheasant wallpaper exudes an appreciation for the antique. But rather than duplicating old recipes, Covington’s Commonwealth uses history as a springboard to create something elegant and original. Two dishes get at what makes this place special: biscuits and fried rabbit. Their biscuit, served with tart quince butter, is perfection—moist and flaky, without being coat-your-throat buttery or crumbleto-ash dry. The rabbit is crisp, light, and not at all greasy, with just the right touch of seasoning and a bright biz baz sauce, a cilantro and garlic sauce of Somali origin that tastes like a creamy salsa verde. Brunch offers the same sort of mashup, including salsa verde pork with pickled jalapeño grits made creamy with the yolk of a 75-degree egg and a smoky, spicy, not too salty Bloody Mary. 621

MAIN ST., COVINGTON, (859) 916-6719, COMMONWEALTHBISTRO. COM. DINNER TUES–SUN, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. MCC. $$ DUTCH’S LARDER

The praise for Dutch’s sandwiches is well deserved.

The bold beefiness of the short rib grilled cheese was paired perfectly with some sweet and stinky taleggio, and served pressed, almost panini-style. The individual ingredients of the BLT sing in peak-season harmony—a crisp slice of house-cured bacon, a purple-flecked heirloom tomato straight from the vine, snappy aioli, and just enough butter lettuce for crunch. Free-flowing evenings on the patio call for a charcuterie plate. Surgically thin slices of peppery, salmon-hued Smoking Goose capicola rubbed shoulders with varzi, a Lombardian salami with a slightly course texture and unexpected notes of clove and cinnamon. The Bent River camembert was sweet and sour, with a texture only slightly firmer than sweetened condensed milk, and the six-month aged manchego’s salty-nuttiness was only enhanced by a housemade pistachio-and-honey paste. 3378 ERIE AVE., HYDE PARK,

(513) 871-1446, DUTCHS.SQUARESPACE.COM. LUNCH TUES–SUN, DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC. $$ E+O KITCHEN

The former Beluga space comes alive with a menu that conjoins minimalist Asian with gutsy-cum-earthy Latin.

The results are hit-or-miss: while guacamole was pointlessly studded with edamame, the pork belly buns are especially tender. Taco plates are a safe bet, with the “sol” pastor—pineapple coupled with Korean kimchi, bulgogi pork, and cilantro—hitting all the right notes.

More adventurous palates may opt for the nuanced ramen—the pork and soy broth teeming with cuts of both pork belly and slow-cooked shoulder, while a superbly poached egg lingers at the edge, awaiting its curtain call.

Service is friendly but tends to sputter when it comes to the basics of hospitality. 3520 EDWARDS RD., HYDE

PARK, (513) 832-1023, EOKITCHEN.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ EIGHTH & ENGLISH

After several years at Boca and the National Exemplar, chef Chase Blowers launched this restaurant in the space formerly occupied by Enoteca Emilia, roughly at the intersection of Seafood & Italian.

This restaurant may specialize in seafood, but its soul is in the pasta. Think black squid-ink pasta, spaghetti di nero, or crunchy accoutrement pistachio pesto. There are some global touches—a tabbouleh side dish, a curry coconut California halibut with basil and lime—but the bass note running through the menu is Italian. The brio and depth of flavor of its dishes makes you want to immediately come back and order again. 2038 MADISON

RD., O’BRYONVILLE, (513) 386-7383, 8THANDENGLISH.COM. DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC. $$$ KAZE

Japanese-trained chef/co-owner Hideki Harada throws down edamame hummus with bittersweet lotus root chips, sea urchin shooters, and plate after plate of impeccably fresh sashimi with laudable consistency. But it’s his basics that are the real knockout. The steamed pork buns are soft and rich with slices of roasted then pan-fried pork belly. The soul-warming bowls of ramen brim with chicken and pork stock, heaps of al dente ramen noodles, yet more pork belly, and bok choy. With inventive-yet-homey Asian cuisine and an über-stylish makeover, Kaze has turned up the volume in OTR without drowning anyone out. 1400 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE,

(513) 898-7991, KAZEOTR.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ THE LITTLEFIELD

Inside a modest 1,500 square-foot space on Spring Grove, just south of Hamilton Avenue, at least 70-odd bourbons behind the bar drive this little restaurant’s philosophy.

The menu is meant to be limited, the better to support and celebrate the bottled flavors up front. There are surprises: a faint hint of curry powder deepens the moody cauliflower fritters; skewered golf-balls of mild, peppery ground lamb get a faint crust from the final sear.

You’ll also want to order the brisket. Applewood-smoked then braised, the meat maintains just enough fat to stay soft, and the earthy, smoky-sweet flavor comes with a patent-leather char to remind you of the caramelized nuances in your glass. The signature pot pie is lighter than most, more like a hearty (read: lots of white and dark meat) soup than a fricassee held captive within a flaky crust. 3934 SPRING GROVE AVE., NORTHSIDE, (513)

386-7570, LITTLEFIELDNS.COM. LUNCH MON–SAT, DINNER SEVEN DAYS, BRUNCH SUN. V, MC. $ MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN

The latest effort from local restaurant juggernaut Thunderdome, owner of the Currito franchise. Order at the counter, then find your own table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected. There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chicken tinga, spaghetti pomodoro, a New York Strip steak, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with a satisfying pappardelle with house-made sausage.

Brunch is available all day; try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the satisfying avocado benedict. 525 RACE

ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 421-2100, MAPLEWOODKITCHENANDBAR. COM. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ MELT

In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get.

Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and the J.L.R. Burger, a black bean or veggie patty served with cheese, tomato, lettuce and housemade vegan mayo. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken melt: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try one of the halvesies, a half-salad, half-soup selection popular with the lunch crowd. 4100 HAMILTON AVE.,

NORTHSIDE, (513) 818-8951, MELTREVIVAL.COM. MCC, DS. $ THE MERCER

This Vine Street spot is the brainchild of Jon Zipperstein, owner of neighboring OTR knockout Kaze, as well as the steak and sushi mainstay Embers in Kenwood. The Mercer proves admirably that comforting staples—when prepared with precision and served with warmth—can send even the most curmudgeonly diner off fat and hap-

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py. Take the short ribs. Many places do a great short rib, but these are lovely, dutifully seared, braised slow and low until tender, and not overwhelmed by fatty gravy. It’s the polenta that really launches this dish into high orbit, the quicksand texture that ever-so-slowly absorbed the braising liquid, still suggestive of root vegetable sweetness. For dessert, try the savory cheesecake. It’s criminally rich, and worth saving room for the unique mix of four cheeses: blue, goat, cream, and ricotta. The slice relies on compressed grapes, crumbs of rosemary-infused walnut cookie crust and drops of a port and pear reduction to offer just a hint of sweet. 1324 VINE ST.,

OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 421-5111, THEMERCEROTR.COM. DINNER TUES–SUN. MCC. $$ METROPOLE

We’ve crushed on Metropole’s signatures before: the roasted half chicken with Aleppo pepper; the Wagyu steak tartare; and the charcuterie board. Also tops in our book: the Metropole burger, a multi-layered flavor fest thanks to sweet red onion marmalade and savory smoked blue cheese. There’s also the satisfying burnt carrot salad, creamy cauliflower soup, and spaghetti squash pancake. But Metropole also boasts a creative beverage program. A quartino of Cote Mas Blanc? Yes, please. Or make that a Sunsets in Sicily cocktail with vodka and housemade blood orange shrub. Perhaps a pour of one of Metropole’s array of bourbon choices. 609 WALNUT ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 578Top 10

6660, METROPOLEONWALNUT.COM. BREAKFAST AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS, LUNCH MON–FRI, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. MCC. $$ MITA’S

By day, Mita’s feels smart, sophisticated, and oh-so big city. But by night, she’s something altogether different. Paper-thin slices of acorn-fed Iberico ham slowly melt on your tongue, as you struggle to decide between the boldly hued pozole verde or the paella for two. In the meantime, your dining companion is waxing effusive over a surprisingly simple salad of jicama, mango, and watercress with cilantro vinaigrette.

Chef-owner Jose Salazar’s sophomore effort has been a runaway success (and garnered plenty of James Beard award attention), bringing us back with hyper-fresh flavors so pure that dinner feels simultaneously virtuous and decadent. 501 RACE ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 421-6482, Top 10

MITAS.CO. DINNER MON–SAT. MCC. $$$

NICHOLSON’S

To remind local diners that they were here before those young dog-toting punks with their exposed brick and crafty ales in Over-the-Rhine, Nicholson’s branded themselves Cincinnati’s “first and finest gastropub,” and revamped the menu to include plenty of snacks and small plates for grazing, and not-quite-brawny, straightforward sandwiches and main dishes. Try the pumpkin crusted trout, bowl of cock-a-leekie soup, or check out the cranberry-apple or Scottish BBQ style burgers—each made with your choice of beef, turkey, lamb, or chicken patties. And the bar’s clubby intimacy makes it easy to belly up and enjoy their impressive collection of single malts or a Scottish stout.

625 WALNUT ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 564-9111, NICHOLSONSPUB. COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ PLEASANTRY

With only 40 seats inside, Daniel Souder and Joanna Kirkendall’s snug but spare OTR gem—they serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner like a true neighborhood spot— features an engaging wine program aimed at broadening your palate alongside small plates that are equally ambitious. Classic technique and fresh produce anchor an approachable menu—“everything” biscuits with cured salmon, burgers, and chicken salad sandwiches are available at lunch, and the cauliflower with sambal is a comforting mash-up of a rich cauliflower-and-coconut-cream schmear topped with a head of sambal-roasted cauliflower, grapefruit segments, toasted cashews, and cilantro. This is not to say that the proteins aren’t something special. Traditionally a much less expensive cut, the small hanger steak was decidedly tender, served with braised cippolini onions and sauteed mushrooms.

118 W. 15TH ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 381-1969, PLEASANTRYOTR.COM. DINNER TUES–SAT, BRUNCH FRI–SUN. MCC. $

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT PLEASE

SARTRE

Please began as a series of pop-up dinners created by chef-owner Ryan Santos. The menu is divided into four courses: cold appetizers, hot appetizers, main courses, and dessert. Much of Please’s inventiveness rises from its focus on local ingredients.

There is a painterly sense in the composition of their dishes that rivals any restaurant in the city. And like all dyed-in-the-wool creatives, Santos and crew are constantly innovating and updating. (Which means the menu is constantly changing, so the dishes mentioned here are merely examples.) Take the plate of de Puy lentils with beets and white asparagus. The beet was sliced into thin sheets and rolled into tubes with the lentils inside. Each roll could be eaten in a single elegant bite, the dark, earthy lentils surrounded by the sweetness of the beets. 1405 CLAY ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 405-8859,

Complete with patina girders and paintings of existentialist philosophers Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, this establishment possesses a French-inspired ethos without a hint of stuffiness. Elemental American favorites are utilized in dishes such as the tender short-rib entrée with creamed cabbage and celery root puree, or the soft, doughy sweet potato “beignets.” The cocktails, many of which are named after Sartre’s books, are elaborate and complex while often being anchored in classic combinations. Adjacent to Rhinegeist’s brewery and taproom, it serves exclusive craft beers—like the tart, refreshing grisette Being—that aren’t available in stores. Elegant, satisfying, and smart, Sartre succeeds at everything it sets out to accomplish.

THE PRESIDENTS ROOM

SENATE

PLEASECINCINNATI.COM. DINNER WED–SAT. MCC. $$$

This newest incarnation of the Phoenix event center’s main dining area, chef Jeremy Luers takes on homey European classics and adds a soupçon of modern sensibility. His menu demonstrates a surprising range of pasta dishes, and the tonarelli is one example that soars; toothy spaghetti-like noodles mingle with cockles—tiny saltwater clams—and salty ham hock. Entrées are formidable and priced to match. A boneless beef short rib is prepared sauerbraten style, braised in red wine thickened with gingersnaps and served atop pureed Yukon Gold potatoes and braised red cabbage. Luers’s piece de resistance is his choucroute garni royale, an Alsatian hot pot studded with pork, potatoes, and kraut. Meant to be split between two to three diners, the dish may require independent arbitration for the pork belly and spare ribs. 812 RACE ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 721-2260, THEPRESI

DENTSRM.COM. DINNER THURS–SAT. MCC. $$ THE QUARTER BISTRO

The Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a halfpound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with papardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy. 6904 WOOSTER PIKE, MARIEMONT, (513) 271-5400,

QBCINCY.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$ RUTH’S PARKSIDE CAFÉ

The spiritual successor of Mullane’s Parkside Café, Ruth’s brings back the vegetable-forward menu with a few concessions to contemporary tastes. Dinner options now include steaks and heavier, braised entrées. But the stir-fries, beans and rice, pasta, and the traditional option to add a protein to an entrée (tofu, tempeh, chicken, or local chorizo) for a $2 upcharge are all old standards. While dishes are generally hearty, they are rarely too rich, leaving room to freely consider dessert. There are a small selection of baked goods, including a chocolate bundt cake, homemade 1550 BLUE ROCK fruit pies, and Madisono’s Gelato.

ST., NORTHSIDE, (513) 542-7884, RUTHSCAFE.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER MON–SAT. MCC. $$ SALAZAR

A freewheeling tour through Korean, Moroccan, Italian, and French flavors—and that’s just on one iteration of the ever-evolving menu. Salazar turns out fresh, well-balanced dishes dotted with seasonal surprises: the cauliflower steak special (a Moroccan spiced, seared wedge of the cruciferous vegetable complemented by a strong hit of lemon), the chicken liver mousse (so good it deserves its own trophy), and the succulent chicken Milanese (with its musky, sweet-and-sour notes of ground cherry). With its bustling bar and cheek-by-jowl tables, Salazar hums with energy at every meal. 1401 Top 10

REPUBLIC ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 621-7000, SALAZARCIN CINNATI.COM. LUNCH THURS–FRI, DINNER MON–SAT, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. MCC. $$

1910 ELM ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 579-1910, SARTREOTR. COM. DINNER WED–SUN, BRUNCH SUN. $$$

Ever since it began dishing out its lo-fi eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl of supremely badass hot dogs to the palate-rattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant.

Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned fries inspire countless return visits.

1212 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE (513) 421-2020, SENATEPUB. COM; 1100 SUMMIT PLACE DR., BLUE ASH, (513) 769-0099, SENATEBLUEASH.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SAT. (BLUE ASH ONLY: BRUNCH, LUNCH, AND DINNER SUN.) MC, V, DS. $ THE SUMMIT

This “laboratory restaurant” staffed by Midwest Culinary Institute students features a limited but eclectic menu.

Soft shell crab goes Latin with black beans, avocado, lime, and chiles. Spanish mackerel is given a Mediterranean twist with yogurt, cucumbers, pickled red onion, and chickpeas. A more traditional pasta dish of hand cut pappardelle with prosciutto, peas, and Parmesan makes an appearance alongside a Kurabota (the pork equivalent of Kobe beef) “hot dog.” Some dishes work better than others: There is redemption in a rustic combination of morels with cream, shallots, and tangy, smoky Idiazábal sheep’s milk cheese. The complex flavor of earth, wood, and char makes this a classic dish for enjoying, not for analyzing. That’s exactly what culinary students should be striving for. 3520 CENTRAL PARKWAY, CLIFTON, (513) 569-

4980, MIDWESTCULINARY.COM. DINNER THURS–SAT. MCC, DS. $$ TASTE OF BELGIUM

Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocery at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots. There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and croquettes—molten Emmenthaler cheese sticks—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Six rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town. 1133 VINE

ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 381-4607, AND OTHER LOCATIONS, AUTHENTICWAFFLE.COM. BREAKFAST AND LUNCH MON–SAT, DINNER TUES–SAT, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ 20 BRIX

Paul Barraco mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted leeks and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. And his chicken and waffles could inspire you to regularly take a solo seat at the bar. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles rather than varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in five-ounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several. 101 MAIN ST., MILFORD, (513) 831-2749,

20BRIX.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT. MCC, DS, DC. $$

TERANGA

West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, home-style dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and flavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and all—in a peppery citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijon-coated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater.

Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Morrocan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders.

8438 VINE ST., HARTWELL, (513) 821-1300, TERANGACINCI. COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, CHECK. $ THE WINDS CAFÉ

Located about an hour north of Cincinnati, the Winds opened in 1977 as a collectively owned cafe in the staunchly liberal town of Yellow Springs, Ohio. Chef Kim Korkan uses local farmers’ products to create natural, wholesome food on the menu, which changes every two months. Winter root vegetables, smoky sauces, and game give way to spring lamb, asparagus crepes with fresh chives and house-made ricotta, and wild river salmon with squid ink linguine and lemon cream. Walleye, halibut, swordfish, and shrimp appear on summer menus, while the bounty of vegetables and fruits moves to center stage. This is mindful cuisine, based on the best the Earth has to offer. 215 XENIA AVE., YELLOW SPRINGS, (937)

767-1144, WINDSCAFE.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SAT, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ ZULA

For a restaurant whose name loosely derives from an Israeli slang term for “hidden treasure,” it seems apt that a dish or two might sneak in and stun—like the mussels Marseilles, with its bouillabaisse-style broth, rich with saffron, tomato, and fennel. But Zula is no one-trick pony.

With a wood-fired oven on the premises, it’s incumbent on you to try the flatbreads. One zula is the eggplant option, where caramelized onions and marinated red bell peppers pair well with subtly sweet fontina. Not every bite at Zula is a game-changer, but one is all you need.

1400 RACE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 744-9852, ZULABISTRO. COM. DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC. $$

FRE NCH JEAN-ROBERT’S TABLE

No other chef in town has as much presence as Jean-Robert de Cavel, and no other restaurant is steeped in such a singular personality. Who else could conjure up a surf and turf tartare of steak and salmon, or try his hand at a luxurious “haute pocket” (a.k.a., a vol au vent), cramming obscene amounts of lobster and succotash into airy layers of buttery puff pastry? But these touches are more than mere outré Gallic insouciance. Always lurking in the background is a reverence for the classics: Filet mignon cooked so skillfully that the meat maintains that textbook tinge of sourness; frites so crisp that your burger blushes. De Cavel shows us how not to simply pay lip service to staid Old World traditions, but how to find vitalité in their modern antecedents. 713 VINE ST.,

DOWNTOWN, (513) 621-4777, JEANROBERTTABLE.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER MON–SAT. MCC, DS. $$ LA PETITE PIERRE

This quiet Camargo Road outpost boasts a rich history, with a pedigree stretching back to Maisonette. Named for Pierre Adrian, who steered Maisonette to a Mobil five-star rating in the mid-1960s, the restaurant initially opened in 1989 as both a catering company and a sit-down eatery by two of Adrian’s daughters, Michele Vollman and Suzy DeYoung. After DeYoung’s departure to open La Soupe, Vollman assumed sole ownership of the business. The bistro serves up a number of appetizers that are just begging to be shared and paired with the perfect vin. Entrées span French classics, includ-

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D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT ing über-accessible steak frites, with an emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients. Its brunch pivots from the restaurant’s Gallic roots but carries over the farm-to-table freshness with house-made spiced goetta for the Hot Brown and ham for the eggs benedict. 7800 CAMARGO

301 FOURTH ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 760-5525, LCINCINNATI.COM. LUNCH FRI, DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC. $$$$ Richard Brown holds sway in the dining room.

RD., MADEIRA, (513) 808-9897, LAPETITEPIERRE.COM. DINNER THURS–SUN, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ LE BAR A BOEUF

Jean-Robert de Cavel’s upscale alterna-burger-shack features bifteck haché, ground beef patties that are a mainstay of French family dinners, according to de Cavel. His “Les Ground Meat” is available in beef, Wagyu beef, bison, lamb, and fish (a blend of albacore tuna and salmon). Portions are eight ounces, taller than a typical burger, and seared on the kitchen’s iron griddle. It’s easy to turn many of the generously portioned appetizers into dinner. Pair the open-faced beef tongue “French Dip” sandwich with a spinach salad and you’ll have one of the best choices in the house. Or go for mac-and-cheese.

The lobster mac always sounds lush, but do consider the humble beef cheek version, enlivened by a touch of truffle oil, instead. 2200 VICTORY PKWY., EAST WALNUT HILLS,

(513) 751-2333, BARBOEUF.COM. DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC. $$ RESTAURANT L

From the moment you enter Restaurant L’s luxurious, silvery cocoon, you want for nothing— even your handbag gets its own tufted perch—with the staff geared to anticipate your every desire. Unbidden, an amuse-bouche arrives, an inspired combination of sassafras, fennel, and grapes that signals to your palate what your eyes have already registered: Somebody—no, everybody—here loves me. Sweet, succulent Jonah crab, tender squab with beurre rouge sauce, flaky snapper and silky foie gras are given seasonal treatment by Jean-Robert de Cavel, who is in full command in the kitchen while Top 10

INDIAN

giving it a wonderful smoky flavor and a hit of black pepper. The chicken tikka is moist and flavorful; tilapia filets marinated, baked in the tandoor, and served over sour cream and onions are tender. Vegetarians will find plenty of legumes, mushrooms, paneer, and vegetables dispersed among sauces redolent with garlic, ginger, herbs, and spices. 7791 COOPER RD., MONTGOMERY, (513) 794-0000,

BOMBAYBRAZIERCINCY.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$

AMMA’S KITCHEN

Muthu “Kumar” Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthia saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item— from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliflower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea flour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes. 7633 READING RD., ROSELAWN,

BRIJ MOHAN

Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no super-sizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely flavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-flavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. 11259 READING RD., SHARONVILLE,

(513) 769-4549, BRIJMOHANCINCINNATI.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SUN. MC, V, DC. $

(513) 821-2021, AMMASKITCHEN.COM. LUNCH BUFFET SEVEN DAYS (ALL-VEGAN ON WED), DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MC, V, DS. $

I TA L I A N

BOMBAY BRAZIER

Most of the menu at this fine-dining Indian spot is mix ’n match, with a dozen-plus northern-Indian style sauces available (vindaloo, madras, samber, mango, saag, rogan josh, and more) to pair with eight proteins (chicken, lamb, salmon, scallops, shrimp, prawns, lobster, and paneer).

House-made paneer (a tofu-like cheese) is marinated on the spot and—for the marvelous appetizer Paneer Afghani—grilled over the 400-degree clay tandoor oven,

Pizza - Salad Pasta - Wraps 14 Wines by the Glass 24 Craft Drafts Gluten Free & Vegan Options Daily Specials Lunch & Dinner Late Night

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A TAVOLA

In 2011, Jared Wayne opened A Tavola Pizza with two friends just as OTR was blowing up. A Ferrara pizza oven was ordered from Italy; Wayne, a skilled woodworker, built custom tables; and the menu was fleshed in with trendy crowd-pleasers like charcuterie and craft cocktails. Fast-forward three years. Brother Nick is now a

Fun. Fresh.

Delicious.

9640 Mason Montgomery Rd | 513.486.1805 www.brixxpizza.com

co-owner, and the Waynes have opened a second pizzeria: A Tavola Madeira capitalizes on the menu from the Vine Street location, including the fresh and zesty asparagus, artichoke, and feta pizza on a Neapolitan crust; gooey mozzarella-filled arancini, or risotto fritters; and the unequaled Blue Oven English muffin eggplant sliders. Wash down your small plates with a glass of crisp and grassy Sannio falanghina or an ice-cold Peroni lager.

Not ones to rest on their laurels, they also fire up a third Italian import—an Italforni Bull Oven—for their take on Roman-style pies (with a thinner, crispier crust). They’re definitely going to need a bigger parking lot. 7022 MIAMI

AVE., MADEIRA, (513) 272-0192, ATAVOLAPIZZA.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $ ADRIATICO’S

Everything about this place says it’s about the pizza: the herbed sauce, the assault of the cheese, the toppings.

It’s all evenly distributed, so you get a taste in every bite.

Adriatico’s still delivers the tastiest pizza in Clifton. On any given night the aroma wafts through every dorm on campus. It’s that popular because it’s that good. Being inexpensive doesn’t hurt either. 113 W. MCMILLAN ST.,

CLIFTON HEIGHTS, (513) 281-4344, ADRIATICOSUC.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $ BETTA’S ITALIAN OVEN

Our new favorite Italian place hits the spot on all levels.

It’s casual—we felt at home in jeans and a T-shirt—but not so casual to rule it out as a date-night spot. It’s friendly, with a staff that stays on top of refilling that Morretti La Rossa beer. And best of all, the food is amazing (especially for the price). We ranked their pizza the best in the city.

Dubious? Their pizza Margherita will make a believer out of you. Their lasagna, spaghetti, and eggplant Parmesan will have you crying Mama Mia and other Italian-sounding phrases. Their dessert options (Cannoli! Tiramisu!

&GGTƂGNF

Amaretto cream cake!) are all homemade, and delicious to the very last bite. 3764 MONTGOMERY RD., NORWOOD,

(513) 631-6836. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER MON–SAT. MC, V. $$ FORNO

Cristian Pietoso’s second restaurant has all the bones of an upscale eatery, but the menu is infused with enough Italian soul to make nonna proud. In most instances, raving about a side of creamed corn wouldn’t bode well for the rest of the menu. Here, that side dish—kernels swimming in a pool of truffle-laced heavy cream that demands sopping up—is evidence that each component prepared by chef de cuisine Stefano Carne is purpose-driven. The red wine–braised honeycomb tripe, which carries a warning label (“Don’t be scared!”), and the pappardelle with spiced cinghiale (wild boar) ragu are examples of the elevated, adventurous comfort food that Pietoso strives for. 3514 ERIE AVE., EAST HYDE PARK

(513) 818-8720, FORNOOSTERIABAR.COM. DINNER TUES–SUN, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $$ NICOLA’S

Nicola’s is so fluently on the mark that other Italian restaurants on American soil can sometimes feel contrived. It begins with the charming Nicola “Nick” Pietoso, who has steadily built a service staff that operates with consistent proficiency and palpable warmth.

The elegantly set tables don’t overwhelm the familial or neighborhood quality of the environment, and the menu blends the cornerstones of Italian cuisine with innovative touches. The handmade pastas are as memorable as your first kiss, and the seemingly haute meat and seafood entrées—chicken with spinach gnudi, celery root, and apple; and salmon with fennel and farro among them—are thoroughly rooted in the bold and simple.

1420 SYCAMORE ST., PENDLETON, (513) 721-6200, NICOLASOTR.COM. DINNER MON–SAT. MCC, DC, DS. $$$

PADRINO

This sister restaurant to 20 Brix is also owned and operated by the Thomas family and their superstar Executive Chef Paul Barraco, who brings his passion for the slow food movement to the Padrino menu. Billed as “Italian comfort food,” Padrino offers the classics (like lasagna and chicken carbonara) plus hoagies and meatball sliders, an impressive wine list, seasonal martinis, and a decadent signature appetizer—garlic rolls, doughy buns smothered in olive oil and garlic. Best of all, Barraco’s pizza sauce, which is comprised of roasted tomatoes and basil, is so garden-fresh that one can’t help but wonder: If this is real pizza, what have we been eating all these years? 111 MAIN ST., MILFORD, (513) 965-0100, PADRINOI-

TALIAN.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$ PRIMAVISTA

Besides offering the old world flavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The fork-tender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-filled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsala soaked raisins, and cream. 810 MATSON PL., PRICE HILL, (513) 251-6467,

PVISTA.COM. DINNER TUES–SUN. MCC, DC, DS. $$

CALL FOR CATERING 513.833.3731 D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 6 1

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT SOTTO

Rustic textures and approachable presentations are juxtaposed with sublime flavors in dishes like the tartare di fassone (beef tartar with lemon and bread crumbs) and house-made blood sausage with squash and mustard greens. For hearty appetites, there’s the one-kilo Bistecca Fiorentina, a massive porterhouse that arrives on a sizzling platter, but we recommend the small plates: the ethereally smooth chicken liver mousse, the grilled quail with seasonal vegetable, and the short rib cappellacci with thyme and browned butter. Only the most strict teetotalers will want to skip the wine.

Grab a glass of Gavi or split a bottle of Vajra barolo with someone special. 118 E. SIXTH ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 977Top 10

6886, SOTTOCINCINNATI.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$ VIA VITE

Cristian Pietoso serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny flavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the flavorful beef eye of rib atop an umami bomb of porcini-marsala gravy intrduces an unusual garnish—a rich corn flan.

520 VINE ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 721-8483, VIAVITERESTAU RANT.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER SEVEN DAYS, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. MCC, DS. $$

JA PA N E S E ANDO

You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoal-grilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the rich and meaty chyu toro (fatty big-eye tuna), or the pucker-inducing umeshiso maki (pickled plum paste and shiso leaf roll). Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it oysters, pork belly, or steamed monkfish liver, a Japanese delicacy that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in any of those Hyde Park pan-Asian wannabes. The only thing you won’t find here is sake, or any other alcohol. Bring your own, or stick to the nutty and outright addicting barley tea. 5889 PFEIFFER RD., BLUE ASH, (513) 791-8687,

ANDOJAPANESERESTAURANT.COM. LUNCH TUES–THURS, DINNER TUES–SUN . MCC. $$$ JO AN JAPANESE

Once you get past the Muzak, fluorescent lighting, and vaguely clinical color scheme of the building it’s buried in, Jo An is a veritable garden of serenity—relaxing daffodil- and olive-colored walls, humble wooden tables, and a 10-seat sushi bar. The cuisine here is deeply rooted in tradition. Sushi is still the star, so put yourself in the hands of the chef and order the sashimi omakase (chef’s selection of sliced raw fish). White tuna was robust and meaty while the bluefin was more complex. Even the workhorse Atlantic salmon was a revelation. 3940

OLYMPIC BLVD., ERLANGER, (859) 746-2634, JOANJAPANESE. COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER MON–SAT. MCC. $$ KYOTO

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—slivers of giant clam on ice in a super-sized martini glass, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, smoky

grilled New Zealand mussels drizzled with spicy mayo, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake. 12082 MONTGOMERY RD., SYMMES TWP.,

(513) 583-8897, KYOTOSUSHIBAR.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$

ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 381-0947, HARUCINCY.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT. MCC. $$ RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

At this relaxed little sushi boutique, try ordering kaiseki, a traditional six-course meal that features a succession of small plates but plenty of food. You might encounter an entire steamed baby octopus or yellowtail with daikon radish, pickled mackerel or deep-fried oysters. You can depend on cucumber or seaweed salad, tempura shrimp, a grilled meat or fish, and of course, sushi—and sometimes even the colorful Bento box sampler. There’s a Nabemono—tableside pot cooking—section on the menu featuring shabu shabu: slices of prime beef swished through bubbling seaweed broth just until the pink frosts with white. Served with simmered vegetables, ponzu sauce, daikon, and scallions, the concentrated, slightly sour flavor of the beef is vivid. 7149 MANDERLAY DR.,

Come for the jo gi mae un tang—a bowl of sizzling, happy hellbroth pungent with red pepper, garlic, and ginger, crowded with nuggets of fish, tofu, and vegetables. Come for the restorative power of sam gae tang, a chicken soup for the Seoul—a whole Cornish hen submerged in its own juices and plumped with sticky rice and ginseng, dried red dates, and pine nuts. Revered for their medicinal properties, both dinner-sized soups will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. They’re a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven. 512 MADISON AVE., COVINGTON, (859)

MEI

SURA

MATSUYA

FLORENCE, (859) 746-1199, MATSUYA-KY.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DC, DS. $$

Mei’s menu is meant to represent traditional Japanese cuisine, appealing to the novice as well as the sushi maven. It is divided into sections that encourage a progressive meal of small dishes: One each for hot and cold appetizers, noodles, sushi and sashimi, special rolls, soups and salads, sushi dinners (with miso soup), and combinations (such as tempura paired with sashimi).

Deep-fried soft shell crab comes with ponzu sauce—a dipping sauce made of rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and citrus juice—and the kind of yakitori that you can find on the streets of New York. Bento boxes—lacquered wooden boxes divided into compartments—offer the neophyte a sampling of several small dishes. Mei’s are lovely: deep red and stocked with tempura, cooked salmon, sashimi, stewed vegetables, and a fabulous egg custard with shrimp and gingko nut. Mei’s sushi—nigiri, maki, and handrolls—is exceptionally good with quality cuts of fresh seafood. The staff is knowledgeable, extremely efficient, respectful, and attentive, even when it’s at peak capacity. 8608 MARKET PLACE LANE, MONTGOMERY, (513)

891-6880, MEIJAPANESERESTAURANT.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$

This traditional Korean oasis has been flying well beneath the radar since 2010. Don’t let the pepper count on the menu deter you. Each entrée arrives with purple rice and assorted small bites aimed at cutting the heat—steamed broccoli, pickled radishes, soy-sauce-marinated tofu, pan-fried fish cake, and housemade kimchi. Korean barbecue staple osam bulgogi—one of only two items meriting a three pepper rating—swiftly clears sinuses with a flavorful duo of pork belly and squid lashed with Korean red pepper paste and served on a sizzling skillet. The two-pepper kimchi jjigae stew marries fermented Korean cabbage with hunks of tofu and shards of pork in a bubbling tomato-based broth.

Make sure to order a bowl of the bone noodle soup for the table—a comforting combination of thick noodles and bits of flank steak floating in a umami-rich marrow broth that magically soothes the burn. 7876 MASON-MONTGOMERY RD.,

MASON, (513) 204-3456, SURAKOREAN.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT. MCC. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

MIYOSHI

On the sushi front, Miyoshi more than delivers.

But the menu is also full of rare traditional Japanese delights that have escaped notice. The delicately seasoned ochazuke soups: steamed rice studded with small strips of nori (seaweed) and tiny bubu arare (rice crackers) is submerged in a green tea broth then topped with little extras like roe, octopus, or our favorite, umeboshi (pickled plum). One bowl, paired with an order of airy pork dumplings laced with wasabi or the agedashi tofu (lightly fried tofu cubes topped with grated ginger, scallions, and bonito shavings), makes for a light, but deeply satisfying meal. 8660 BANKERS ST., FLORENCE, Top 10

291-1484, RIVERSIDEKOREANRESTAURANT.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$

(859) 525-6564, MIYOSHIRESTAURANT.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT. MCC, DS. $$

ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE

In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and charred tomato turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate.

Co-owner Andy Hajjar mans his station at the end of the bar, smoking a hookah pipe that fills the air with the sweet smell of flavored tobacco, while the friendly but hurried staff hustles through. 906 NASSAU ST., WALNUT

HILLS, (513) 281-9791, ANDYSKABOB.COM. LUNCH MON–SAT, DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ CAFÉ MEDITERRANEAN

KOREAN HARU

After the closing of Sung Korean Bistro, Haru is a welcome addition to the downtown scene.

Dishes are served along with the usual Korean accompaniment of pickles, kimchi, fish cakes, and other mysteriously delicious dainties. A favorite is the japchae, a traditional dish sporting silky sweet potato noodles with sesame-and-garlic sauce, matchsticks of assorted crisp vegetables, and behind it all a wonderful smokiness that pervades the whole meal. The accompanying pot of gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste, adds its own sweet and spicy note. The result is a homey, soulful, and satisfying taste that appeals even to those who’ve never eaten a bite of Korean food before. 628 VINE

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Chef-driven Middle Eastern cuisine leans heavily on Turkish tradition here. The baba ghanoush uses seared eggplant, which adds a pleasant smokiness to the final product. Börek is described as a “Turkish Egg Roll,” wrapping spinach, leeks, and goat cheese into phyllo dough, and baking it to brittle flakiness. The pastry arrives atop a vivid cherry tomato marmalade, which adds a welcome dimension of barely sweet fruitiness. While there is a smooth, simple hummus on the menu, you should go for the classic sucuklu hummus, which is spiked with sujuk, a common beef sausage popular all over the Middle East. 3520 ERIE AVE., EAST HYDE PARK, (513)

871-8714, CAFE-MEDITERRANEAN.COM. LUNCH MON–SAT, DINNER SEVEN DAYS, LUNCH SUN. MCC. $ $ FLOYD’S

Sure, you can go here for the great baked kibbeh, a blend of delicately spiced ground lamb, pine nuts, and onions, stuffed inside a shell of ground lamb, lamb fat,

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT and bulgur wheat. Or you could visit for the vegetarian moussaka with eggplant, onions, tomatoes, and cilantro.

But you’d be missing out on Floyd’s famous tender-crisp spit-roasted chicken and lima beans with chopped parsley, garlic, and olive oil. Not all of the specialties are the real Lebanese deal, but we’ll keep ordering them anyway.

127 CALHOUN ST., CLIFTON HEIGHTS, (513) 221-2434, FLOYDSOFCINCY.COM. LUNCH TUES–FRI, DINNER TUES–SAT. MC, V. $ PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

To eat like a native, get lots of little plates and share. The baba ghanoush, smoky and creamy, is astoundingly good. Those who choose less familiar spreads like the muhammara, made from walnuts, red peppers, and pomegranate molasses, will also be richly rewarded. Whether you’re partial to standbys like falafel or tabbouleh, or willing to venture out a bit (try the tiny pine nut and lamb stuffed sausages called maanek), everything is reliably excellent. And with freshly made pita bread reappearing at the table like a magical maternal encouragement to eat just a little more, it will be hard to stop. 7944 S. MASON-MONTGOMERY RD., MASON, (513) 770Top 10

0027, PHOENICIANTAVERNA.COM. LUNCH TUES–FRI, DINNER TUES–SUN. MCC. $$ SANTORINI

Steak, eggs, and home fries. Jumbo haddock sandwich with Greek fries. Chocolate chip hot cakes with bacon.

Notice something wrong with this menu? Chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich with Olympic onion rings. Yep, it’s obvious: What’s wrong with this menu is that there’s nothing wrong with this menu. Greek feta cheese omelette with a side of ham. It’s been owned by the same family for more than 30 years. Santorini has diner standards, like cheeseburgers, chili five ways, and breakfast anytime, but they also make some Greek pastries in house, like spanakopita and baklava. 3414 HARRISON

AVE., CHEVIOT, (513) 662-8080. BREAKFAST, LUNCH, AND DINNER MON–SAT, BREAKFAST AND LUNCH SUN. CASH. $ SEBASTIAN’S

When the wind is just right, you can smell the garlicky meat roasting from a mile away. Watch owner Alex Sebastian tend to the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Alex’s wife and daughter run the counter with efficient speed, and whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanikopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic (often made by the Mrs.), they never miss a beat, turning more covers in their tiny deli on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend. 5209 GLENWAY AVE., PRICE HILL,

(513) 471-2100, SEBASTIANSGYROS.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT. CASH. $ SULTAN’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

The meze, a parade of small plates and appetizers—the refreshing yogurt dish with cucumber, mint, and garlic known as cacik, and its thicker cousin haydari, with chopped walnuts, dill, and garlic—is rounded out with flaky cheese or spinach boureks, falafels, soups, salads, and more, while baked casseroles or stuffed cabbage and eggplant dishes (dubbed “Ottoman specials”) augment the heavy focus on kebabs: chunks of lamb and beef on a vertical spit for the popular Döner kebab (a.k.a. Turkish gyro), peppery ground lamb for the Adana kebab, or cubed and marinated for the Shish kebab. 7305 TYLER’S

CORNER DR., WEST CHESTER, (513) 847-1535, SULTANSCINCIN NATI.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$

MEXICAN EL MESON

The last place you’d expect to find a lively pan-Latin restaurant is among the stark concrete environment of gas stations and dollar stores in West Carrollton.

Nearly two dozen tapas are featured throughout the menu, and ordering a handful is one of the best ways to experience El Meson. Gambas al Ajillo may be the best small plate: Sauteed shrimp swimming in oil brick-red from pepper, resonant with garlic, crisp-charred along the edges of the bowl. The house-made chorizo, smokydark and buzzy from good Spanish paprika, goes well with the “tapa mixta espana,” a sampler of roasted red peppers, olives, caperberries, crusty bread, and cubes of slightly tangy Manchego cheese. Servers confidently make recommendations and patiently help you navigate the crazy-busy menu. You won’t necessarily feel ignited by the blazing sun of the southern hemisphere, but El Meson is authentic enough to have you imagining a few chickens scratching around the parking lot. This is one family fiesta worth showing up for. 903 E. DIXIE DR., WEST

CARROLLTON, (937) 859-8229, ELMESON.NET. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER MON–SAT. $$ EL VALLE VERDE

Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here—ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire fish—enough to feed three. 6717 VINE ST.,

CARTHAGE, (513) 821-5400. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. $ HABAÑERO

It’s easy to find a cheap burrito place around a college campus, but you’d be hard-pressed to find one as consistently good as Habañero, with its flavors of Latin America and the Caribbean wrapped up in enormous packages. Fried tilapia, apricot-glazed chicken breast, hand-rubbed spiced flank steak, shredded pork tenderloin, or cinnamon-roasted squash are just some of the ingredients for Habañero’s signature burritos. All salsas are house-made, from the smoky tomato chipotle to the sweet-sounding mango jalapeño, which is hot enough to spark spontaneous combustion. 358 LUDLOW AVE.,

CLIFTON, (513) 961-6800, HABANEROLATIN.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DC, DS. $ MAZUNTE

Mazunte runs a culinary full court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried mahi-mahi tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mango-habañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke and selfserve sangria (try the blanco), or the cans of Rhinegeist and MadTree on ice. 5207 MADISON RD., MADISONVILLE,

(513) 785-0000, MAZUNTETACOS.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT, BRUNCH SUN. MCC. $ MONTOYA’S

guajillo salad (order it for the table); dreamy mac-andcheese looks harmless, but there’s just enough of a roasted poblano and jalapeño punch to have you reaching for another icy margarita. 600 WALNUT ST., DOWNTOWN,

(513) 721-6232, EATDRINKNADA.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER SEVEN DAYS, BRUNCH SAT & SUN. MCC, DS. $$ TAQUERIA CRUZ

The menu at this four-table mom-and-pop welcomes you to “a little piece of Mexico.” The huaraches (spelled guarachis here), are flat troughs of thick, handmade fried masa dough the approximate shape and size of a shoeprint, mounded with beans and slivers of grilled beef or chili-red nubs of sausage, shredded lettuce, a crumble of queso fresco, and drizzle of cultured cream. Should you have an adventurous side, you can have your huarache topped with slippery tongue, goat meat, shredded chicken, or pork. There are stews, carne asada plates, and sopes—saucers of fried masa much like huaraches, only smaller. 518 PIKE ST., COVINGTON, (859) 431-3859. LUNCH

AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. CASH. $ TAQUERIA MERCADO

On a Saturday night, Taqueria Mercado is a lively fiesta, with seemingly half of the local Hispanic community guzzling margaritas and cervezas, or carrying out sacks of burritos and carnitas tacos—pork tenderized by a long simmer, its edges frizzled and crispy. The Mercado’s strip mall interior, splashed with a large, colorful mural, is equally energetic: the bustling semi-open kitchen; a busy counter that handles a constant stream of takeout orders; a clamorous, convivial chatter in Spanish and English. Try camarones a la plancha, 12 chubby grilled shrimp tangled with grilled onions (be sure to specify if you like your onions well done). The starchiness of the rice absorbs the caramelized onion juice, offset by the crunch of lettuce, buttery slices of avocado, and the coolhot pico de gallo. A shrimp quesadilla paired with one of their cheap and potent margaritas is worth the drive alone. 6507 DIXIE HWY., FAIRFIELD, (513) 942-4943; 100 E.

EIGHTH ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 381-0678, TMERCADOCINCY.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $

SEAFOOD THE ANCHOR OTR

Thoughtfully prepared, unfussy dishes, from a streamlined menu that focuses on seafood. There’s a rotating selection of oysters from both the East and West Coasts, served with lemon wedges, granita made with pickled onions and horseradish, and mignonette and cocktail sauces. Whole fish of the day is offered grilled, fried, or Thai style (topped with a refreshing salad of mango, red onions, cashews, Thai chiles, basil, mint, and cilantro) and expertly deboned tableside. Also recommended: grilled calamari salad, crunchy salt shrimp with celery root slaw, crab cake sliders, and a lovely, palate-cleansing chopped raw kale salad. 1401 RACE

ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 421-8111, THEANCHOR-OTR.COM. DINNER TUES–SAT. MCC, DS. $$

Mexican places seem to change hands in this town so often that you can’t get the same meal twice. Montoya’s is the exception. They’ve been hidden in a tiny strip mall off the main drag in Ft. Mitchell for years. It’s unpretentious and seemingly not interested in success, which means success has never gone to their head here. At a place where you can get Huracan Fajitas with steak, chicken, and chorizo or Tilapia Asada, the tacos are still a big item.

McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S

NADA

(513) 721-9339, MCCORMICKANDSCHMICKS.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DC, DS. $$

2507 CHELSEA DR., FT. MITCHELL, (859) 341-0707. LUNCH AND DINNER TUES–SUN. MC, V, DS. $ The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll find a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. Tacos inspired by global cuisine include the Señor Mu Shu (Modelo and ginger braised pork) and fried avocado (chipotle bean purée). The ancho-glazed pork shank with chili-roasted carrots comes with a papaya

The daily rotation here reads like a fisherman’s wish list: fresh lobsters from the coast of Maine, ahi tuna from Hawaii, North Carolina catfish, Massachusetts cod. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Flaky Parmesan-crusted tilapia, with a squeeze of lemon, makes the taste buds dance.

The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square, and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things. 21 E. FIFTH ST., DOWNTOWN,

PELICAN’S REEF

Over the years Chef John Broshar has developed his niche, inspired by the seasonal availability of fish obtained daily from one or more of the purveyors he uses. Malabar snapper and swordfish from Hawaii,

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 6 3

D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8 W H E R E T O E AT Australian triple tail, wild Alaskan salmon, wreckfish from South Carolina, Florida yellow tail, rainbow trout, and wild striped bass are just some of the varieties that rotate through the extensive features listed on a 10-foot by 2-foot chalkboard. The regular offerings are no slouch: Grilled grouper sandwich with chipotle tartar sauce, chubby fish tacos, perfectly fried piping hot oysters tucked into a buttered and toasted po’ boy bun with housemade slaw, and tart-sweet key lime pie. And of course, the damn good New England style chowder. 7261 BEECHMONT AVE., ANDERSON TWP., (513)

232-2526, THE PELICANSREEF.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON– SAT. MCC, DS. $$

The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the peppercorn crust provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive steakhouse-standard onion straws, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus topped with a sprinkle of chopped nuts and hazelnut vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint. 311

DELTA AVE., COLUMBIA-TUSCULUM (513) 321-5454, JEFFRUBY. COM/PRECINCT. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$$$ TONY’S

STEAKS CARLO & JOHNNY

The stars of the menu are 11 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that meltin-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the hard to find bone-in filet. There are the usual suspects of chops, et al, but we found the Kentucky bison strip steak one of the more interesting beef alternatives.

9769 MONTGOMERY RD., MONTGOMERY, (513) 936-8600, JEFFRUBY.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$$$

He is a captivating presence, Tony Ricci. Best known for his 30 years in fine dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of filet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torchkissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto. 12110 MONTGOMERY RD., SYMMES TOWNSHIP, (513)

677-8669, TONYSOFCINCINNATI.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $$$$

followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai barbecue sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill. 5461 NORTH BEND RD., MONFORT HEIGHTS,

(513) 481-3360, THAINAMTIP.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MONSAT, DINNER SUN. MC, V. $ WILD GINGER

Wild Ginger Asian Bistro’s ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evidenced by their signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-and-chili brown sauce.

3655 EDWARDS RD., HYDE PARK, (513) 533-9500, WILD GINGERCINCY.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SUN. MCC, DS. $$

V I E T NA M E S E

JAG’S STEAK AND SEAFOOD

Chef Michelle Brown’s food is deeply flavored, if occasionally a bit busy, her steaks of the buttery-mild variety, with not too much salty char crust. All seven cuts are served with veal demi-glace and fried onion straws. According to my steak-centric dining partner, his cowboy rib eye is “too tender and uniform” (as if that’s a crime).

“I like to wrestle with the bone,” he adds, though that’s a scenario that, thankfully, doesn’t get played out in this subdued dining room. 5980 WEST CHESTER RD., WEST

CHESTER, (513) 860-5353, JAGS.COM. DINNER MON–SAT. MCC, DC. $$$ JEFF RUBY’S

Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service to the, er, cleavage. Black-jacketed waiters with white floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and stacks of king crab legs, or mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions.

An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of chops—lamb, veal, and pork. But most customers, even the willowy model types, inhale slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime) like they’re dining in a crack house for carnivores. The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Jewel, nearly a pound-and-a-half of bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers.

700 WALNUT ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 784-1200, JEFFRUBY.COM. DINNER MON–SAT. MCC. $$$$ MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE

No one has replicated the concept of an expensive boys’ club better than Morton’s. Amid the dark polished woods and white linen, the Riedel stemware and stupendous flower arrangements, assorted suits grapple with double cut filet mignons, 24 ounces of porterhouse, pink shiny slabs of prime rib, overflowing plates of salty Lyonnaise potatoes, or mammoth iceberg wedges frosted with thick blue cheese dressing. Jumbo is Morton’s decree: Oversized martini and wine glasses, ethereal towering lemon soufflés, roomy chairs, and tables large enough for a plate and a laptop. Even steaks billed as “slightly smaller” weigh in at 8 to 10 ounces. 441 VINE

ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 621-3111, MORTONS.COM. DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$$ THE PRECINCT

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks.

THAI GREEN PAPAYA

Inside this simple dining room, replete with soothing browns and greens and handsome, dark wood furniture, it takes time to sort through the many curries and chef’s specialties, not to mention the wide variety of sushi on the something-for-everyone menu. Have the staff—friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable—help you.

When the food arrives, you’ll need only a deep inhale to know you made the right choice. The Green Papaya sushi rolls are as delicious as they look, with a manic swirl of spicy mayo and bits of crabstick and crispy tempura batter scattered atop the spicy tuna, mango, cream cheese, and shrimp tempura sushi—all rolled in a vivid green soybean wrap. 2942 WASSON RD., OAKLEY, (513)

731-0107, GREENPAPAYACINCINNATI.COM. LUNCH MON–SAT, DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC. $$ SUKHOTHAI

Nestled in the nearly hidden Market Place Lane, this tiny restaurant isn’t exactly slick. A chalkboard lists the day’s specials, usually spicy dishes worthy of an adventurous diner. But if it’s noodle dishes and curries you’re after, Sukhothai’s pad kee mao—wide rice noodles stir-fried with basil—is the best around. Served slightly charred, the fresh and dried chilies provide enough heat to momentarily suspend your breath. Pad Thai has the right amount of crunch from peanuts, slivers of green onion, and mung sprouts to contrast with the slippery glass noodles, and a few squeezes of fresh lime juice give it a splendid tartness. The crispy tamarind duck is one of the best house specials, the meat almost spreadably soft under the papery skin and perfectly complemented by the sweet-tart bite of tamarind.

8102 MARKET PLACE LANE, MONTGOMERY, (513) 794-0057, SUKHOTHAICINCY.COM. LUNCH MON–FRI, DINNER MON–SAT. DS, MC, V. $ THAI NAMTIP

Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/ owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at first bite, then the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves,

6 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M D I N I N G G U I D E 2 0 1 8

PHO LANG THANG

Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most flavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk that should make canned energy drinks obsolete. 114 W. ELDER ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513)

376-9177, PHOLANGTHANG.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS, DC. $ QUAN HAPA

The Nguyen brothers, Duy and Bao, along with partner David Le, have followed up on Pho Lang Thang’s success at Findlay Market by bursting onto the OTR scene with some of the boldest flavors in the city. A tuna ceviche makes use of the fiery sweetness of Malaysian sambal oelek and a banh mi steakburger gains crunch from pickled daikon and a side of Indonesian shrimp chips. Or try the okonomiyaki, a traditional Japanese pancake topped with a choice of bacon, prawns, or vegetables. The Vietnamese coffee, a complex, chicory-forward blend, is an ideal way to end the meal. 1331 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE,

(513) 421-7826, QUANHAPA.COM. LUNCH AND DINNER SEVEN DAYS. MCC, DS. $ SONG LONG

The reason there’s a line at the door on weekend nights is the fine Vietnamese specialties cooked and served by the Le family. Begin with the goi cuon, the cold rolls of moistened rice paper wrapped around vermicelli noodles, julienned cucumbers, lettuce, cilantro, and mung bean sprouts. Or try the banh xeo, a platter-sized pan-fried rice crepe folded over substantial nuggets of chicken and shrimp, mushrooms, and wilted mung sprouts. The phos, meal-sized soups eaten for breakfast, are good, but the pho dac biet is Song Long’s best. Crisp-tender vegetables, slices of beef, herbs, and scallions glide through the noodle-streaked broth. When you’re ordering your entrée, be careful: Mr. Le has a much heavier chili hand than Mrs. Le. Ask who is cooking and order accordingly if you don’t want your eyes to roll to the back of your head. 1737 SECTION

RD., ROSELAWN, (513) 351-7631, SONGLONG.NET. LUNCH AND DINNER MON–SAT. MCC, DC, DS. $

Featuring live entertainment from local artists and serving the finest steaks in Cincinnati, Prism offers a gourmet dining experience in a cozy atmosphere.

Located just steps away from your favorite slots and table games, it’s the perfect spot to start the night!

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Get Your Seaside On

East Coast Flavor, Midwest Hospitality.

28 W Court Street, Cincinnati, OH

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513.246.0184

| www.courtstreetlobsterbar.com