Cincinnati Magazine - July 2021 Edition by Cincinnati Magazine

EAT THIS!

CRAZY RICH PEOPLE! Secrets of the city’ city’s top payday lenders

Our 28 favorite burgers are out of this world.

OUTDOOR OPERA IS A BREATH OF FRESH AIR

BUILDING A MORE BIKE-FRIENDLY CITY

by Steven Rosen

by Cedric Rose

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TREASURES FROM THE TAFT Now on View Assembled nearly 100 years ago, does the Taft’s collection hold relevance today? Join us as we look at our city’s celebrated art collection through a 21st-century lens.

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F E AT U R E S J U LY 2 02 1 TOWER OF POWER THE 1788 BURGER FROM LOCAL POST: TWO QUARTER-POUND PATTIES, AMERICAN CHEESE, TWO ONION RINGS, BACON, AND POSTY SAUCE ON SIXTEEN BRICKS CHALLAH BUNS.

PATTY MADNESS

We scoured the tri-state for our new favorite burgers, and the taste will take you to inﬁnity and beyond.

TWO WHEELS, ONE GOAL

P. 48

Bike advocates see decades of work ﬁnally bear fruit with Wasson Way, the Beechmont Connector, a breakthrough on the riverfront Oasis Line, and development of the CROWN. Cincinnati might actually become a bike-friendly region after all. B Y C E D R I C R O S E PH OTO G R A PH BY A N D R E W D O E N C H/ FO O D ST Y LIN G BY K AT Y D O EN C H

GO! GO! GO!

P. 52

Nasty divorce proceedings between Bridget and Jared Allen, the president of Check ’N Go, offer a rare peek inside the highly proﬁtable and secretive world of payday lenders. BY JIM DEBROSSE J U LY 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 5

D E PA R T M E N T S J U LY 2 02 1

ON OUR SITE

FOOD NEWS

12 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FRONTLINES 15 / DISPATCH

Cincinnati Opera returns to nature

16 / SPEAK EASY Filmmaker Melissa Godoy

16 / FAMILY FUN

DINE

78 / DINING OUT

The Children’s Museum reopens

Dear Restaurant & Butchery, Hyde Park

18 / STYLE COUNSEL

80 / HOT PLATE

Brow maven Honour Hook

Bee’s Barbecue, Madisonville

20 / HOMEGROWN

80 / TABLESIDE WITH…

Polymer clay creations from Skinny Dip Jewelry

Kevin O. Hart, Hart & Cru

22 / REAL ESTATE

82 / FINE DIVING

A fairytale cottage in Wyoming

Cheba Hut, Corryville

84 / HIGH SPIRITS

24 / DR. KNOW

Cocktails from Heist + Co., Harrison

Your QC questions answered

COLUMNS

26 / WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD I was a gymnastics judge. Was I part of the problem?

The latest info from our dining scene.

CITY NEWS

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.

86 / DINING GUIDE Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list

ON THE COVER

illustration by JAMES CLAPHAM

HOME + LIFE

Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.

BY JUDI KETTELER

96 / CINCY OBSCURA A secret garden in Avondale BY BEBE HODGES

SPORTS

Insight and analysis on the Reds and FC Cincinnati.

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Cincinnati Magazine

@Cincinnatimagazine

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12 / CONTRIBUTORS

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S THE COVID-19 PANdemic draws to a close, many of Cincinnati’s seniors and their loved ones—especially those with cognitive and memory needs—are reconsidering assisted living options. The Guardian Center for Memory Support, which opened in late 2019 at Christian Village Community in Mt. Healthy, offers memory care in a homelike setting. Lisa Cecil, vice president of health services at Christian Village Communities, says that the increased need led Christian Village to remodel and dedicate an entire floor to this service. “It was that need for secure assisted living and knowing that would benefit our residents,” she says. “That’s why we did a significant move and remodel—so we could provide it.” The Guardian Center’s opening coincided with the start of the pandemic. Cecil says that getting new residents to move in took a bit longer than anticipated, but she notes that the residents have responded well to the new facility. Located on its own secure floor, the Guardian Center has a dedicated staff that works exclusively with the memory care residents. Cecil attributes part of the cen-

ter’s success to Christian Village’s commitment to consistent caregiving. “It’s always better when you can anticipate residents’ needs and preferences,” she says. “We pride ourselves on consistent and dedicated caregivers.” The main difference between the Guardian Center and the other levels of care at Christian Village is the physical security. The center consists of private apartments and shared common areas, but shared outdoor areas can only be accessed with supervision. “It’s beautiful inside,” Cecil says. “And then, with the care of our staff, residents can also

get to our beautiful outdoors.” She emphasizes that due to Christian Village’s Medicaid waiver program, long-term residents will never be forced to move out. “In our continuum of care, we don’t ask anyone to leave because of inability to pay,” Cecil says. Senior living facilities like Christian Village are planning ahead for increased demand with dedicated memory care units and specially trained staff. These additional supports ensure that residents can remain at Christian Village for the long-term, even as their care needs change. And because Christian Village offers different levels of care, residents who require a higher level of assistance don’t have to move to another facility. “We’re a life plan community, and we’re able to use our continuum of care,” Cecil says. “We can meet any growing care needs in any parts of our community. J U LY 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 6 5

Senior Living We take a look at local memory care centers and the services they provide. Plus, our senior living community directory helps you make sense of the many choices available to older adults in our area.

PAGE 70

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DISCOVER HEALTHY, BEAUTIFUL SKIN

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF John Fox DESIGN DIRECTOR Brittany Dexter DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS

Amanda Boyd Walters SENIOR EDITOR Aiesha D. Little ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lauren Fisher CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jim DeBrosse,

Kathleen Doane, Jene Galvin, Jay Gilbert, Alyssa Konermann, Polk Laffoon IV, Lisa Murtha, Kevin Schultz, John Stowell, Linda Vaccariello, Kathy Y. Wilson, Jenny Wohlfarth, J. Kevin Wolfe EDITORIAL INTERNS Emma Balcom, Abby Bammerlin, Jorja Butt, Sam Cioffi, Devan Marr, MacKenzie Tastan DIGITAL INTERNS Joí Dean, MC Miskuly,

Annasoﬁa Scheve SENIOR ART DIRECTORS Jen Kawanari,

Emi Villavicencio ART DIRECTORS Zachary Ghaderi,

Stephanie Youngquist ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Carlie Burton JUNIOR DESIGNER Logan Case CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Lance Adkins, Ryan Back,

Wes Battoclette, Aaron M. Conway, Chris Danger, Devyn Glista, Chris von Holle, Jeremy Kramer, Ryan Kurtz, Lars Leetaru, Marlene Rounds, Dola Sun PRODUCTION DIRECTOR & IT SYSTEMS ADMINISTRATOR

Vu Luong

PUBLISHER Ivy Bayer SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Maggie Wint Goecke, Julie Poyer ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Hilary Linnenberg SENIOR OUTSIDE ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Laura Bowling SENIOR MANAGER, SPONSORSHIP SALES

Chris Ohmer SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

Cecilia Rose SALES INTERN

Emily Hoskins

BUSINESS

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CONTRIBUTORS

BRANDON WUSKE

T H E R E ’ S N O S U C H T H I N G A S A B A D B U R G E R . O N E M I G H T B E O V E R C O O K E D, and another might be cold. You could discover overflowing toppings on your half-pounder when all you really want is ketchup and pickles. You could have trouble locating a black bean patty if you’re a vegetarian, or the only one left on the grill might be an Impossible Burger when you’re craving red meat. At the end of the day—or after your panic attack—you’re still having a burger, which means life is good. Burgers are synonymous with summer in the USA. Seriously, is there a more American food than the humble hamburger? Hot dogs are just sausages, which are vaguely Germanic. Apple pie is a larger, flatter version of strudel, also Germanic. Beer? The Germans taught us how to brew it. Hamburgers have nothing to do with Germany, other than being named for one of its largest cities. See what I mean? American through and through. We celebrate burgers this month (“Patty Madness,” page 34) because they’ve been excellent companions through the pandemic. They’re delicious when you have them at a restaurant or when you grab carryout. They generally travel well in takeout boxes, though some of their buns don’t. Just about every spot with a food and/or liquor license across the Cincinnati region has a burger on the menu. They’re the very definition of comfort food. Like your best friend, burgers can be boring but don’t have to be. Local kitchens hand-pat their patties from Wagyu beef, turkey, bison, chorizo, and even seasoned falafel. You can top them with blue cheese, pimento cheese, roasted garlic gloves, fried eggs, avocado, bourbon sriracha, mushroom demi-glace, sweet mango chutney, and even bone marrow mayo. And you can order a side of poutine, steamed broccoli, kale salad, or a take-home growler of your favorite craft beer. Dress them up, dress them down, eat them at a roadside diner, treat yourself at Jeff Ruby’s or Boca, grill some in your backyard, or pop into Frisch’s for a Big Boy—there’s no wrong way to enjoy a burger. Bon appétit, and happy summer!

J O H N F OX

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

1 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

ILLUSTR ATIO N BY L A R S LEE TA RU

Contributing writer Brandon Wuske usually writes about the types of mom-and-pop restaurants you might ﬁnd in strip malls. “I like to try and eat as much of the world as possible,” he says. (Including Bee’s Barbecue, which he reviews on page 80.) For “Patty Madness” (page 34), Wuske dishes on his favorite burgers.

NATALIE CLARE After taking some time away from writing about the ﬁlm world, contributor Natalie Clare is “tip-toeing” back to her passion. In “Capturing Life Itself” (page 16), Clare talks to director Melissa Godoy about her latest documentary, Determined, set to premiere at this month’s 2021 Over-the-Rhine Film Festival.

JAMES CLAPHAM For this month’s cover, freelance illustrator James Clapham drew inspiration from sci-ﬁ. Clapham, who is based in the UK, says one of his greatest hurdles was accurately illustrating downtown Cincinnati. “I hope that people resonate with it.”

CORRECTION

After the May issue went to press, Elementz Hip Hop Youth Center changed its name to Elementz Hip Hop Cultural Art Center.

GRADUATES

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SCHOLARSHIPS & GRANTS

355

ACCEPTANCES

CONGRATULATIONS CLASS OF 2021 RT Adkins Alexa Bailey Eleanor Beyreis Caroline Blang Abigail Blum Nora Brant Jalen Brooks Zongrui Cai Reese Carlow Rowan Castrucci Skandda Chandrasekar Kasey Chopra John Connelly Oren Conner Paige Cordea

Marley Cox Charles Curtis Jonathan Dawson Sabrina DelBello Brian Foster Rishi Gabbita Margaret Gardner Ella Gilbreath Jasmine Gonzales Ryan Graham Dereck Gray, Jr. Lauren Hettinger Celie Hudson Wynton Jackson Abhijit Jagtap

Cole Jeffries Abhimanyu Jetty Lila Joffe Rose Joffe Kamryn Jordan Genevieve Kallmeyer Catherine Kreidler Andrea Lander Vegas Ziyun Lin Maggie Ma Mason Mack Aziz Mahmud Griffin McAndrew Gauri Midha Margaret Mullins

Sai Nalagatla Michael Noack Sophia O’Brien Elizabeth Osborn Connor Paff Taylor Pavlisko Samuel Pettengill Cameron Pohl Grace Ramirez Marsalis Reed Anthony Retzios Michelle Riemann Spencer Rodenberg John Roy Jessica Rutherford

Thomas Scheer Jenna Setters Antao Shao Ruoyu Shao Molly Taylor Mark Tereck Sean Thomas Francisco Valentin Melvin Van Cleave Lila Weizer Max Wendel Jack Weston Jack Wright Shang Xiang Yuxi Zhang

COLLEGES AND UNIVERSITIES The University of Alabama American University Barnard College Boston University Bowdoin College University of California-San Diego (2) Carleton College (2) University of Chicago University of Cincinnati (6) University of Colorado Boulder Cornell University Dartmouth College University of Dayton University of Denver Duke University Emory University (2) Florida Institute of Technology Georgia Institute of Technology Grinnell College

Hamilton College Hampton University Harvey Mudd College Heidelberg University High Point University University of Illinois (2) Indiana University University of Kansas University of Kentucky Kenyon College Lehigh University Loyola University Chicago McGill University Miami University University of Miami Morehead State University University of North Carolina Northeastern University (2) University of Notre Dame

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Oberlin College Ohio State University (4) Ohio University Purdue University Reed College Ringling College of Art and Design Rose-Hulman Institute of Technology Saint Louis University Santa Clara University Savannah College of Art and Design Spelman College The University of Tampa Tufts University (2) Vanderbilt University Wake Forest University (2) Washington University in St Louis Wellesley College Williams College Xavier University (4)

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A DETERMINED LOCAL FILMMAKER P. 16

HOOKED ON EYEBROWS P. 18

NATURE-INSPIRED JEWELRY P. 20

FAIRYTALE COTTAGE P. 22

MUSIC IN THE AIR

Cincinnati Opera adjusts to pandemic reality with fewer and shorter shows at Blue Ash’s Summit Park. STEVEN ROSEN

FTER BEING FORCED TO CAN-

cel its 100th anniversary season last summer due to the pandemic, Cincinnati Opera is optimistically pushing ahead with a 2021 schedule. This month’s outdoor summer season at Blue Ash’s Summit Park has been carefully planned to follow the state safety protocols as well as recommendations from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The Opera even has a staff COVID compliance officer helping coordinate all the moving parts. Cincinnati Opera will present three perennial favorites in shorter 90-minute versions for its “Summer at Summit” season—two Italian operas, Puccini’s tragic Tosca and Rossini’s comic The Barber of Seville, plus Bizet’s Carmen, the French story of a ﬁercely independent woman. There will be a total of nine ticketed performances between July 17 and 31: four for Carmen, three for Tosca, two for Barber. The season opens with a free, but still ticketed, Opera in the Park event on July 11 featuring live opera and musical theater selections from summer cast members. Performing opera outdoors has its challenges, both because of the CONTINUED ON P. 16 pandemic and

I L L U S T R AT I O N BY V I D H YA N AG A R A JA N

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DISPATCH

FAMILY FUN

A COMEBACK FOR THE KIDS

The Children’s Museum reopens July 1 after a 16-month shutdown, with capacity limits and mask requirements for all guests. Every exhibit was repaired and painted, including favorites like The Woods (left) and Waterworks. CINCYMUSEUM.ORG/CHILDRENSMUSEUM 1 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

SPEAK EASY

CAPTURING LIFE ITSELF X Most of Melissa Godoy’s varied production hats (digital cinematographer, director, editor, producer, and writer) came into play ﬁlming her latest documentary, Determined. Screening at the 2021 Over-the-Rhine Film Festival July 8–11, it follows three women at high risk for Alzheimer’s through a research study. “The thing I strive for in my work is to capture the present moment, with all its pain, humor, and contradiction,” says Godoy. “And as I mature, that presence has fewer words, more silence.” What keeps you engaged in the documentary genre? The story is there, so there’s no need to labor over making something look real. I don’t ever want to be judgmental from behind the camera; if you don’t “feel” the person on the other side of the lens, try harder. We tell stories in media by putting people within a frame, but no one likes to be put in a box. How do you boost local ﬁlm production as a founding member of Women in Film Cincinnati (WIF)? If you can dream it, you can do it, though it will take time and sweat. We offer

vocational training, networking, and opportunities. There are a range of talents represented on our board, from gaffer/grip to wardrobe to editors and producers in ages ranging from those in their 20s to late 60s. Tell us about this year’s Over-the-Rhine Film Festival and its theme of “a new lens on life.” To our city just emerging from a pandemic, a new lens may mean joy in the moment—a celebration of health and hope for the future. But beyond that, this is a festival of inclusion. When anyone risks sharing their stories from beyond the tired old stereotypes or tropes, we’re invited into new worlds less frequently explored and we become richer and more empathic. That’s the strength of independent film. Cincinnati has been growing over the years as a film city. In your opinion, what makes it ideal for filmmaking? Well, Cincinnati is drop-dead gorgeous and interesting. And it’s beautifully diverse in talent. This is a city that takes performing arts seriously! —NATALIE CLARE READ A LONGER CONVERSATION WITH MELISSA AT CINCINNATI MAGAZINE.COM

PH OTO G R A PHS BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S

T I C K E T I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y E M I V I L L AV I C E N C I O / FA M I LY F U N P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y C I N C I N N AT I M U S E U M C E N T E R / S P E A K E A S Y I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y Z A C H A R Y G H A D E R I

just generally. Audience memThe operas have been shortened with scalpel-like precision to maintain integbers will watch from reserved rity, says Mirageas. “I’ve worked with spaces in one of the 389 square “pods” painted onto Summit Park’s three-acre each of the directors and conductors to lawn facing the stage. Each pod can hold make certain we didn’t lose one moment up to six people, but only one ticket purof essential drama or, equally important, chaser is allowed per pod; about 1,000 one piece of famous music. We were able total patrons are expected each evening. to make the 90-minute versions by takBecause of social distancing needs, ing out the high cholesterol. This is a chicken-and-ﬁsh version.” Tosca and Carmen will use fewer Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra musicians The opera action will happen under a than a normal version at Music Hall (35 tent with a weatherproofed roof, lighting to 40 instead of the usual 65 players). and sound equipment, and large video Barber of Seville normally screens that allow the entire uses fewer musicians and audience to see close-ups. A choristers, so its numbers 35-foot-high three-segment have not been reduced for tent features a main center this production. section for the principal singPartly because of the reers and, behind them, the orStay Flexible chestra. Two side sections will duced number of players, Find ticketing and the operas will be ampliseating updates at the hold the chorus. Lyla Forlani, in her first fied. There will be no sets, 2021 Season FAQ page: cincinnatiopera.org season as the Opera’s direcextensive costume changes, tor of production, says the or intermissions. Plans call for instrumentalists and chorus memprincipal singers will act their parts and bers to wear masks and be socially disall cast movements will be staged; the tanced. Principal singers will maintain shows won’t just be concerts. There COVID-proscribed distances but won’t also will be creative behind-the-scenes be masked. work by the resident lighting designer, Cincinnati Opera Artistic Director Thomas Hase. Can this season work with these limEvans Mirageas emphasizes that, despite these challenges, he’s maintaining itations? Morris Robinson, the Cincinhigh artistic standards. “We have worldnati Opera artistic advisor who’s singing class stars singing in all three producthe bass part of Don Basilio in Barber, tions,” he says. “And we have a couple thinks so. He’s appeared in pandemicdebuts of world-class stars, particularly era productions elsewhere. “People are in Tosca with Ana María Martinez, a celjust hungry for art,” says Robinson. “I’m ebrated Puerto Rican soprano, as well as blessed to be one of the ones who’s had Quinn Kelsey, a famous Hawaiian baria chance to deliver it during this time of tone joining us for the ﬁrst time.” the pandemic.”

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STYLE STYLE COUNSEL COUNSEL

Honour Hook OCCUPATION: Owner, Brow OTR Microblading and Lash Studio STYLE: Authentic, sexy, funky How did you get involved with microblading? I’ve been a makeup artist for 20-plus years. I lost my brows in cancer treatment, so I really needed a brow solution, and when I found that this existed, I was like, I have to learn how to do this. How does microblading work? Microblading is a form of semipermanent tattoo done by hand. It’s actually done by a micro-blade. We take pigment—similar to tattoo ink, but not quite—and we implant it under the skin in the pattern of a hairlike stroke, versus a tattooed eyebrow, which would look solid. The whole entire brow would be filled in. How did you get into makeup artistry? I was modeling, and I loved all of the creative aspects other than being the actual model. I got my first job at a makeup counter in ’97. What do you think is going to be the next trend in brows? I’m hoping that we stay in the natural realm and not the over-tweezed, over-plucked brow. That’s literally why I have a business—because everyone committed a multitude of sins against their brows in the ’90s as well as in the early 2000s. We went through two really bad brow phases, so I’m hoping that the fluffier, natural, wild brow stays trendy and we get a little bit more away from the super coiffed, defined, tweezed brow. Earlier this year, you appeared in an Olay Body commercial. How did you get involved with that? They were looking for a [woman business owner] in Cincinnati. I went through a three- to four-audition process, and after the final audition, I got the call that I got it. It was so exciting, beyond exciting. Several of my clients had recommended me. The brand partner at Olay Body said, I can’t tell you how many times we heard your name. We just knew we had to bring you in. —J AC LY N YO U H A N A G A R V E R

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OFFICE SPACE 1 and 4: Morgan McGoff in her studio. 2 and 3: Squiggle barrettes and Daisy earrings.

daisies—to name just a few. Born into a long line of creative women, it was no surprise that a 10-year-old McGoff would proudly tell adults she wanted to be a “starving artist” when she grew up. Her first love was photography, which flourished after her godfather gifted her an old Canon camera. She went on to study in UC’s DAAP program, but after a few years working in that industry, McGoff realized she wanted something different. “I realized in order for me to feel fulfilled, I didn’t want to constantly go to someone first before making a decision,” she says. “If I had a good idea or if I wanted to try something, I wanted to

just do it.” Making jewelry wasn’t always the plan, either. In Idaho, a homesick McGoff dug through a care package from her mother to ﬁnd some sculpting clay. She started experimenting. “Before I knew it, I had some shapes, and I was like, Wow, this would make a cool earring,” McGoff says. And from there,

her small business venture was born. Soon, McGoff will introduce a new collection of jewelry at markets and online. “Markets have been such a huge part of Skinny Dip,” she says. “There is something magical that happens when someone sees your work and has a real-life reaction to it right in front of your eyes.” SKINNY DIP JEWELRY, 4

2 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

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PHOTOGRAPH (2, 3) COURTESY SKINNY DIP JEWELRY

W When Morgan McGoff was brainstorming a brand identity for her ﬂedgling jewelry company, she knew she wanted a name that would evoke happy memories. And there was one phrase—one memory—she couldn’t get out of her mind. While on a yoga retreat, she had gone skinny dipping in a river on a crisp, clear night. Looking up at a brilliant Milky Way, McGoff thought to herself, This is who I am and where I belong. I truly belong in myself. McGoff, the owner, artist, and educator behind Skinny Dip Jewelry, wanted to take that good feeling and bring it into her business. “I think that all too often we can forget the power of putting a piece of jewelry on,” she explains. “And when people put on their Skinny Dip jewelry, my hope is that they can embrace themselves.” Using polymer clay, McGoff crafts every piece by hand in her home studio. Her inspiration draws heavily on nature and organic shapes, patterns, and textures reminiscent of water, horseshoes, and

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REAL ESTATE

ADDRESS: 501 REILY RD., WYOMING LISTING PRICE: $649,000

INTO THE WOODS

PART OF WHAT SETS WYOMING APART AS A NEIGHBORHOOD IS ITS VA-

riety. The relatively compact suburb is a greatest hits showcase of handsome homes built in much-loved architectural styles like Mid-Century Modern, Victorian, Tudor Revival, Georgian Revival, and Cape Cod. And yet somehow, it all comes together to give a cohesive community feel to one of the city’s most desirable addresses. The creative force behind many of these homes was Walter Cordes, a local architect who designed dozens of buildings in Wyoming alone throughout the ﬁrst half of the 20th century. His 1926 “storybook” house on Reily Road has many of the whimsical features of that popular 1920s style, including exaggerated-pitch rooﬂines, natural materials like brick and stone, and nested gables and doorways. Storybook homes (many of which are on the West Coast in Los Angeles and San Francisco) can vary drastically in appearance, sometimes looking like medieval huts, hobbit houses, village inns, or even witch houses pulled from the pages of fairy tales and nursery rhymes. Some story2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

book homes are aggressively cute, with over-the-top features like swayback (i.e., sagging) roofs, thatching, and uneven gables. 501 Reily Rd. is relatively tame, but no less charming: Set way back on an already quiet street, this sweet cottage is actually a sprawling 3,400-square-foot five-bedroom home with three full bathrooms and two half-baths spread over four floors of living space. Inside, Dutch doors throughout the first floor double down on the home’s quaintness, and a wood beam ceiling complements brick wood-burning fireplaces. Built-in bookcases and closet bureaus make the home exceedingly livable, and the owner’s suite features a study, dressing room, built-in dressers, and a full bath. The overall effect is homy, cozy, and very adorable. Features like a three-season sunroom, a two-tier deck out back, and a fully finished basement would be extraordinary in many other homes, but seem natural parts of this remarkable structure. Wyoming is already a picturesque corner of Cincinnati. And with more than an acre of wooded land and enough bedrooms to house almost all of Snow White’s dwarves, this home fits right in.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY SIBCY CLINE

THIS FAIRYTALE COTTAGE HELPS TELL WYOMING’S STORY. — A M Y B R O W N L E E

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Gorgeous Robert Lucke re-sale in Vintage Club, 46 Traditions Turn, Montgomery st 1 ﬂoor Master walks out to covered patio, plus 2nd ﬂoor bedrooms have their own bath and walk-in closet. Close to I-71, shopping & restaurants. Price: $1,475,000. 5 bedrooms

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Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, weekday afternoon deejay on 92.5 FM The Fox. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

DR. KNOW

You have been driving past the oldest surviving structure in Madeira, originally built as a schoolhouse (the “McCullum School”). It’s hard to imagine enough Madeirans in 1839 to fill a buggy, much less a school. Over the decades it has also been a church, an auto mechanic’s business, and often a residence. When the current owner purchased it in 2006, he intended to demolish the already-dilapidated structure and expand his rental property, but upon discovering the building’s forgotten significance (and a blackboard behind several layers of wall) he decided to try to save it. Neither he nor the Madeira Historical Society, however, has found financing for a restoration. The poor little schoolhouse hopes to one day be as stately as its neighbors; it may someday even become Blue Book–worthy.

Q+ A

Cincinnati is, happily, one of the last places in America where we can make local phone calls without having to include the 513 area code. My friends say that this will change soon and that every call will require 10 digits even if I’m on a landline calling next door. What? Why? When? —I’M HUNG UP DEAR HUNG:

I can’t afford any of the nice houses on Shawnee Run Road in Madeira, but I like driving past them. There’s one house, though, near the Camargo Road train tracks, that’s empty and run-down, with broken windows and structural damage. It’s a dump, surrounded by high-end homes. Surely there’s a story? —HOMELY HOME

DEAR HOMELY:

The Doctor humbly confesses he is constitutionally incapable of suppressing any enticement to say Don’t call me Shirley. There, you’ve won. As for that house on Shawnee Run Road: Yes, there is a story.

2 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

Times change. Long ago, non-local phone calls required an “operator” who had to manually connect every conversation between cities. Today she’s so extinct that we now must explain to puzzled children who the strange woman is at the end of that Pink Floyd song. Originally, every locality or region had one telephone area code. But when fax machines and internet modems vastly increased the need for new numbers, “layover” area codes were added to existing ones (Dayton’s 937, for example, added 326), requiring the 10-digit commitment. We of Cincinnati’s 513, however, escaped such befoulment—clearly because we are of superior stock—and so we continue to enjoy seven-digit local calling. Inexplicably, so does Northern Kentucky’s 859, ILLUSTR ATIO N S BY L A R S LEE TA RU

carved out of 606 in 2000. But times change. The Deep State (in this case, the FCC) has decreed that come October 24 all Americans must succumb to the backbreaking toil of 10-digit dialing. Protests will be ruthlessly crushed. A possible upside is that, perhaps, humanity will ﬁnally ﬁnd the courage to get rid of the word dialing.

The best-selling book about racial issues, Caste, mentions Cincinnati. In 1951, nails and broken glass were thrown in a public pool to keep Black people from using it. I know a lot of our city’s shameful history on this subject, but that speciﬁc incident was news to me. Can you tell us more about it? —THROW SOME LIGHT DEAR LIGHT:

We joke about Cincinnati responding slowly to trends, but our city’s foot-dragging during the civil rights era was no joke. It was especially glaring at swimming pools. Coney Island had an infamous whites-only policy until 1955, with Sunlite Pool restricted until 1961. Local media didn’t report violent incidents when Black people attempted to enter there. The story you read about in Caste (which happened at a city pool, not Coney) comes from an earlier book about America’s struggle to desegregate its public recreation areas. Sadly, there’s an entire chapter about Cincinnati. While the Doctor found nary a word in local newspapers about the nails/glass incident, it was documented by members of Cincinnati’s Jewish Community Relations Council; they had joined the ﬁght to open up the city’s public pools. Last summer, the pandemic “restricted” recreational events for everyone. Just multiply that experience by about a hundred bajillion zillion, and you might get a sense of what segregation felt like. OK, no you won’t. Many thanks to the brave Cincinnatians who mightily dragged our city over to the right side of history.

The Art of LE PICNIC Particularly in France, picnicking is the fabric of summer pastimes as sharing food in the great outdoors is truly idyllic. From charcuterie and fromage to our freshly baked Artisan Breads and more, we’ll ship picnic essentials to your door. DORO T H Y L ANE M AR K E T Specialty grocer in Dayton , Ohio shop.dorothylane.com

J U LY 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 2 5

WE LCO ME TO MIDDLEHOOD BY JUDI KETTELER

Seeing the Scared Eyes I LOVED BEING A GYMNASTICS JUDGE, BUT WAS I ALSO PART OF THE ABUSE PROBLEM? THIS MONTH, AS I WATCH GYMNASTS SWING AND TUMBLE IN THE BELATED 2020 SUMMER Olympics—if Japan actually hosts them—I’ll be in awe of their grace and power like everyone. But I’ll probably also be looking for those tiny moments when an elbow bends or their angle isn’t quite vertical. Having spent a dozen years judging gymnastics, which followed six years of competing and six years of coaching, my eyes are still trained to see the mistakes. I fully appreciate how amazing and nearly perfect these gymnasts are, but it’s a fun game to think about whether I would give full credit for a connection on the beam that has a millisecond pause or if that triple twist made it all the way around. 2 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

As I think about these things, inevitably I will think about something else: Why I stopped judging gymnastics 10 years ago. The simplest answer is that I had kids. Gymnastics meets happen on the weekend. Kids happen on the weekend, too. Being gone nearly every Saturday from October through April was too much, especially after working all week. The other, less simple answer is that I had a growing sense something sinister was going on right in front of me. Though it would be another decade before the scandal that rocked USA Gymnastics would surface, the signs of it were already there when I hung up my uniform for good. DO YOU REMEMBER THE STORY FROM A few years ago about the heroic Alaska Airlines flight attendant who allegedly saved a young girl from human trafficking? The flight attendant sensed something wasn’t right by the girl’s demeanor and fearfulness of the man she was traveling with. As the story goes, the quick-thinking flight attendant got the girl’s attention and left her a note in the airplane bathroom asking if she was OK. The girl wrote back and said, “I need help.” Police met the plane in San Francisco, and the girl was saved. According to Snopes, the story may not even be true. Nonetheless, when I read it some years back, the first thing I thought of was how many times as a judge—wearing a navy blue suit that very much resembled a flight attendant’s uniform—I had the odd impulse to send a note to one of the gymnasts I was judging, asking, “Are you OK?” It’s not that I ever saw something worthy of being officially reported. But so many times, I sensed something wasn’t right. I can’t even say it was a mother’s instinct, because I mostly didn’t have kids yet. What I saw, over and over again, was a strange dynamic between ego-driven adults (mostly men, but some women) and girls with twig-like bodies and robotic stares. Were these girls happy, I wondered? Were they being scolded for gaining weight? Yelled at and demeaned? Told not to question the methods? Having grown up in the Catholic Church and come of age just before the C o v i n g t o n CONTINUED ON PAGE 31 ILLUSTR ATIO N BY D O L A SU N

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WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD Latin School priest abuse scandal cracked open in the 1990s, I learned early to be suspicious of any institution that regarded certain people as godly and bestowed on them the recurring beneﬁt of the doubt. The longer I judged gymnastics, the more I realized that the environment around me was ripe for exploitation and misconduct. So many of these young girls (and their families) were driven by the idea of being a champion. USA Gymnastics played on that, creating a culture of silence and cover-up. Of course, I didn’t know what was being covered up back then. That would come later. To be clear, I also saw legions of wonderful and dedicated coaches encouraging their charges—young women who were clearly loving their sport and having fun,

the former USA Gymnastics doctor who sexually abused gymnasts for decades and was sentenced to 175 years in prison after dozens of gymnasts made victim impact statements at his trial. Geddert abused them and sent them to Nassar, who told them he was on their side and would take care of them. Not only was Geddert the star of every gymnastics symposium in the region (a symposium was an educational conference for coaches and judges), he walked around every gymnastics meet like he owned the ﬂoor. My fellow judges would say, with both dread and anxiety, “Pay attention, Geddert’s girls are up next.” Judging gymnastics wasn’t my career. Unlike some of the other judges, I didn’t run a gym or coach or have designs on advanc-

GYMNASTICS WAS SO IMPORTANT TO ME AS A YOUNG GIRL. IT WAS BOTH A PHYSICAL AND MENTAL OUTLET, A WAY TO EXPRESS MYSELF AND TO CHALLENGE MYSELF. just as I had. I especially loved judging high school gymnastics, where the atmosphere was more casual, more team-focused, and more fun than the rigor and seriousness of club gymnastics. I also want to clarify that I never judged elite athletes. I was a level 10 judge, which was at least one rating below the highest, maybe two (the system for how one judges the Olympics was never that clear to me). But I didn’t need to be an elite judge to interact with all the big clubs in the Midwest and to witness the dark side of the larger-than-life personalities of many of these coaches. The one I crossed paths with the most was John Geddert, who ran the Michigan club Twistars and died by suicide in February after his abuse was made public. When the story initially broke in 2018 about how Geddert physically and verbally abused his gymnasts—pushing them, throwing things at them, ignoring their injuries, threatening them, and using fear to control them—no part of me was surprised. It also wasn’t surprising that he worked in conjunction with Larry Nassar,

ing through the ranks of USA Gymnastics. This was just something fun I did on the weekends. The extra money was nice, but I didn’t truly need it. So, on one hand, I remember thinking, why would I give a shit what this pompous jackass thinks? And yet, when he scowled at us, threw his hands up, or stood behind our judging table in a play to intimidate us, I was in fact intimidated. There I was, a grown woman with multiple college degrees, a successful writing career, and solid mental health, and I still wasn’t immune to the anxiety he created. What chance did a young girl have against that kind of daily toxicity, especially when USA Gymnastics rewarded him over and over again? (He was the coach of the 2012 U.S. Olympic women’s gymnastics team.) As a judge, my job was to offer an objective-as-possible opinion about the degree of bend in a gymnast’s knees or the amplitude in her tumbling. I could do that. Increasingly, though, I couldn’t seem to distance myself from the look I would sometimes see in a gymnast’s eyes. The look that made me wonder what was really going on.

BY THE LATE 2000S, I MADE A CONscious decision to stop judging club gymnastics. I didn’t want to be in that environment anymore. I wondered if I wasn’t somehow part of the problem because I was participating in a system that idolized coaches and didn’t ask questions. That decision coincided with having my ﬁrst child and needing to scale back anyway. By the time my second child was born in 2010, I was only doing a handful of high school meets, and demands on my time eventually made me quit that as well. Learning about the scandals years later sickened me, obviously. It also left me with a feeling of regret. And yet, layered under all of that, a deep and abiding love of the sport. Gymnastics was so important to me as a young girl. It was both a physical and mental outlet—a way to express myself and to challenge myself. I still do handstands nearly every day and turn playground curbs into balance beams so I can do leaps and pop out cartwheels. I still love how the movement feels, even as my adult body doesn’t always want to play along. While I had some initial dreams about being an Olympic champion after I watched Mary Lou Retton in 1984, I dropped that goal pretty quickly because I was a realist. I did gymnastics through the YMCA and had a series of lovely college girls as coaches. I worked hard, but it wasn’t an overly serious environment. At the time, my reasoning was, Oh, my family doesn’t have the money to send me to a fancy private club, which is where you need to go to get really good. That was true, but I also didn’t have the right personality to be a gymnastics champion. I’m terrible at submitting to authority. At not questioning. At blind faith. It’s why I was a lousy Catholic. It’s why I’ve worked for myself for 20 years. It’s certainly why I couldn’t stand to be around John Geddert. I just wish I would have done something. Passed my score to my head judge, along with a secret Post-it note to the girl with the scared eyes, saying, “Are you OK?” Because, at the end of the day, the adults in the room did a terrible job of protecting the children. J U LY 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 3 1

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DECEMBER 2013

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NORTH

$17+21< 08f2= /(*(1'$5< For a delicious way to support a local charity, look no further than the Anthony Muñoz Legendary at Sammy’s Craft Burgers & Beers. A portion of the proceeds from this monster goes to the Anthony Muñoz Foundation. The beefchorizo blend and melted pepper jack bring the heat, the creamy guac cools things down, and the bacon adds a little crunch for a burger worthy of a local legend. Generosity never tasted so good. 4767 Creek Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 745-9484, sammyscbb.com

SAM I AM Clockwise from top: Sammy’s Craft Burgers & Beers; the Anthony Muñoz Legendary; guacamole, Hawaiian, and bacon-jelly sliders.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A N D R E W D O E N C H / FO O D ST Y L I N G BY K AT Y D O E N C H

DOWNTOWN

&5* %85*(5 A palate that favors the briny bite of pickles is a must for Crown Republic Gastropub’s CRG Burger. In addition to the American cheese, lettuce, tomato, and onion, this behemoth of a double patty burger is topped with a healthy amount of malt pickles and pickle aioli. Fortunately, all of that pickle juice and the slightly vinegar-y aioli elevates the burger and doesn’t overpower its ﬂavor. That would be a dill breaker. 720 Sycamore St., downtown, (513) 246-4272, crownrepublicgastropub.com WEST

'581.(1 %285%21 %85*(5 WEST

:+2 '(< %85*(5 We wish it weren’t so, but business partners Phil Marston’s and Gary Brock’s Who-Dey Burger at Chandler’s Burger Bistro is much more exciting than its namesake team. A 100 percent USDA chuck beef patty from Bridgetown Finer Meats and Applewood smoked bacon are spiced up with ghost pepper cheese, a Cajun sriracha blend, and a layer of gouda cheese bites. If it sounds indulgent, you’re right, but it’s the perfect comfort to remedy another game day loss. 6135 Cleves Warsaw Pike, Delhi, (513) 941-0823, chandlersburgerbistro. com

To truly enjoy this Wishbone Tavern burger (and you’ll want to), the trick is to not shy away from getting a little messy. Bite into this towering treat layered with provolone cheese, bacon, crispy onion rings, toasted sesame seeds, and a bourbon sriracha sauce that adds a sweet but spicy kick (and you’ll likely ﬁnd some on your shirt later). Fortunately, you’ll be tucked away in a strip mall on the west side, so any judgment on shamelessly enjoying your meal will likely be kept to a minimum. 5251 Delhi Ave., Delhi, (513) 834-8607, wishbone tavern.com CENTRAL

*25'2¶6 %85*(5 Quite a few generations of Xavier students and Norwood families have mingled inside the venerable Gordo’s Pub and Grill, downing more than a few half-pound burgers resembling cannonballs. The signature Gordo’s Burger is topped with roasted poblano peppers, mushrooms, onions, smoked bacon, and Boursin cheese and will tingle your tongue, create a huge mess, and put you to sleep with a food coma. The house steak fries are a perfect complement but try the steamed broccoli—not a lot of burger places offer a healthy side. 4328 Montgomery Rd., Norwood, (513) 351-1999, gordospub.com

I C O N I L LU S T R AT I O N BY E M I V I L L AV I C E N C I O

SO CHEESY The macaroni-and-cheese filled Greg Brady from Jack Brown’s.

Gone are the days of ketchup, mustard, and tasteless mayo. Next time you order, don’t be afraid to drown your burger in one of these mouthwatering condiments.— L A U R E N F I S H E R

Goose Sauce

Jose Salazar’s Goose & Elder calls the eponymous “Goose Sauce” its secret ingredient. What certainly isn’t a secret to regulars is that this is the Swiss army knife of sauces. The mildly spiced mayo-based sauce comes on the side with the krinkle-cut Elder Fries, but it pairs perfectly with practically everything on the menu. gooseandelder.com

Bone Marrow Mayo You can ﬁnd this collagen-rich condiment liberally slathered and mingling with sherry onions and triple-cream brie atop Khora’s delectable Sakura Farms burger. Dubbed “marrownaise” in some culinary circles, the sauce brings to the table a umami ﬂavor that could elevate even the most basic burger. khorarestaurant.com

P H OTO G R A P H BY A N D R E W D O E N C H / F O O D S T Y L I N G BY K AT Y D O E N C H / I L LU S T R AT I O N BY Z AC H A R Y G H A D E R I

DOWNTOWN

'5 *21=2 The Dr. Gonzo at Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint was a surprise chain addition (there are 14 other locations in Tennessee, Virginia, Alabama, and North Carolina) to a list chock-full of burgers from local joints. It’s just that good. Topped with sautéed mushrooms, Guinness fried onions, Applewood smoked bacon, and Swiss cheese, this burger hits the right notes that you’d expect from a sandwich at your favorite independently owned hole in the wall. See? New chains ain’t that bad. 1207 Main St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 873-8288, jackbrownsjoint. com/locations/cincinnati

EAST

=,3%85*(5 Diners have eagerly squeezed into Zip’s Café on Mt. Lookout Square since 1926. That’s partly because of the Zipburger. With beef from local butcher Avril-Bleh & Sons (seasoned and handformed into patties, no less), the burger is ﬂame-broiled to perfection and served on toasted honey-egg buns from Klosterman, topped with fresh veggies (standard stuff—onions, lettuce, tomatoes), and condiments. It’s like a backyard burger done just right, but the secret ingredient is its long local history. 1036 Delta Ave., Mt. Lookout, (513) 871-9876, zipscafe.com CENTRAL

1* %85*(5 Nine Giant Brewing makes quite an impression with its eclectic food menu, offering tasty items—tomato bisque, Brussels sprouts, lobster mac and cheese—you normally don’t ﬁnd in a brewpub. One of those items is the signature NG Burger, a grass-fed beef patty, topped with caramelized onion, housemade pickles, and “secret sauce.” Don’t forget to include growlers and crowlers of their fresh-brewed beers on your carryout order to top it off. 6095 Montgomery Rd., Pleasant Ridge, (513) 366-4550, ninegiant.com

Creamy Jalapeño

Mad Sauce

Housemade Tartar Sauce

OK, so City Goat’s jalapeño cream sauce isn’t really a sauce at all—it’s actually a cream cheese. But that doesn’t mean you should write off this unlikely burger topper. On the double-stacked “Farmer’s Daughter,” it meshes with the restaurant’s secret signature sauce to create a spicy concoction that’s melt-in-your-mouth delicious. visitthegoat.com

We’re still wondering how on earth Mike could be so mad when he makes a sauce like this (yes, we’re perfectly aware that the Mad in Mad Mike’s stands for “massive and delicious”). The spicy chipotle-mayo-esque creation comes on practically everything at this no-nonsense burger joint, from the “American Outlaw” all the way down to the fried pickles. madmikesburger.com

There have to be a hundred or so restaurants that have tried—and in some cases, failed spectacularly—to recreate Frisch’s famous tartar sauce for their own (well-intended) rip-offs of the Big Boy. But somehow, The Gruff gets it right with the tangy housemade blend that crowns “The Gruff Boy,” its very own homage to the classic. atthegruff. com

OUTDOOR DINING Local Post’s outdoor patio area ( top ) and the falafel burger ( bottom ).

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DOWNTOWN

($67 (1' %85*(5 Housed in an old East End post office, Local Post has your hamburger needs covered with a handful of creative choices. Our favorite is the East End Burger, a sizable patty with American cheese, tomato, lettuce, red onions, and crispy bacon, topped with a full fried kosher dill pickle and served up on sturdy, garlic aioli-smeared challah. A first-class burger with classic ingredients and a bit of fun (and tons of flavor), this one is definitely something to write home about. 3923 Eastern Ave., East End, (513) 371-5858, localpostcincy.com

WEST

7+( +286( %85*(5 Visit the iconic Incline Public House on a clear day for its stunning panoramic view of the city; stay for its classic house burger. A whopper (we’re talking wide and thick) of a perfectly cooked-to-order Black Angus beef patty, thick-cut bacon, melty cheddar cheese, crispy onions, and your usual greens and tomato are all sandwiched between a soft but sturdy brioche bun. Fries, an expansive seasonal drink menu, and that stellar view help you wash it all down. 2601 W. Eighth St., Price Hill, (513) 251-3000, inclinepublichouse.com NORTH

/( $/3,1( The Le Alpine burger at Deerfield Towne Center’s Frenchie Fresh Burger Bar offers fine dining ingredients and techniques without the sky-high price tag. With a fluffy brioche bun that’s a study in softness, this tender, juicy beef burger is topped with Swiss cheese, caramelized onion, and an umamipacked mushroom demi-glace. Since the toppings are as delicate as the meat itself, there is nothing stopping this sandwich from melting in your mouth like butter. And that’s definitely OK with us. 5595 Deerfield Blvd., Mason, (513) 486-1017, frenchiefresh.com

',57< )5(1&+ We would describe Sacred Beast’s Dirty French as what would happen if a cheeseburger and French onion soup had a baby. Available as a single patty or a double, this burger is stacked with caramelized onions and Gruyère cheese on a Blue Oven Bakery bun. The au poivre steak sauce and creamy Mornay sauce balance each other out quite nicely for a smooth ﬂavor you’ll remember long after you’ve licked your plate clean. 1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 213-2864, sacred beastdiner.com NKY

%,621 %85*(5 CENTRAL

+2( %85*(5 Just a block from the University of Cincinnati campus, breakfast/ lunch spot Hangover Easy is usually jammed with college students seeking help with physical, mental, or spiritual hangovers, but non-students will ﬁnd relief here as well. A good place to start is the HOE Burger, a fresh ground beef patty with red onion jam, cheese spread, bacon, and bacon aioli that’s topped by an egg done any way you want. A little breakfast and a little lunch, served with a plate of seasoned fries—it’ll keep you going all day. 13 W. Charlton St., Corryville, (513) 221-5400, hangovereasy.com/ cincinnati

OK, so we’re going off-script with this one. The Elusive Cow in Bellevue gets its bison from Eckerlin’s (which also provides the beef for its regular burgers), but of course, owner Jim Fisher puts his own special spin on things. With a super lean meat like bison, you might expect a dried-out puck, but Fisher’s proprietary kitchen magic works because the burger is tender and juicy (make sure you order a step down in doneness—medium is plenty well-done here). We’re also fans of the housemade kale salad with apples and onions and a sweet housemade dressing. 519 Fairﬁeld Ave., Bellevue, (859) 291-0269, theelusivecow.com NKY

52&.()(//(5 This gourmet burger from Mad Mike’s Burgers & Fries can definitely be described as rich. The first thing you notice is the thickly sweet mango chutney, balanced by the earthy flavor of the blue cheese. Onion straws add a little salty crunch, while the cilantro mayo offers a fresh tang. It’s a double, with two stacked quarter-pound patties on a sturdy grilled bun, but it doesn’t feel like too much of a handful. Not your preferred flavor profile? You’re free to build your own dream burger from the extensive list of toppings. Locations in Newport, Florence, and Hamilton, madmikesburger.com

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A N D R E W D O E N C H / F O O D S T Y L I N G BY K AT Y D O E N C H / I C O N I L LU S T R AT I O N BY E M I V I L L AV I C E N C I O

What’s a burger without a side of starch-y goodness? Lucky for us, they aren’t all French. These delicious fry dishes are great with a sandwich or, in some cases, big enough to be meals on their own. — A I E S H A D . L I T T L E

Wild Herbs and Feta Fries Some fries aren’t really about the fries—what makes them amazing is the seasoning. Dean’s Mediterranean Imports excels at this. Its wild herbs and feta (made with olive oil, za’atar spice, and Bulgarian feta) is so well seasoned, you don’t even need the harissa ketchup it comes with, but the earthy condiment of coriander, cumin, and garlic is a delightful addition.

Poutine Our geographical cousins to the north have given us some great gifts over the years—Trivial Pursuit, IMAX, standard time—but none greater than poutine. This dish of fries covered in cheese curds and brown gravy can be found all over town, including at Northside Yacht Club, Senate, and Incline Public House. Price Hill Chili even has a Greek version with feta cheese and Sacred Beast’s iteration uses lobster gravy. Oh, Canada!

Seafood Fries Getting good, fresh seafood in a landlocked locale like Cincinnati is a treat but getting expertly seasoned, Cajun-style seafood served over French fries? *Chef’s kiss* With plump pieces of shrimp and meaty chunks of crab, K&J’s seafood fries are a meal onto themselves.

Gravy and Cheese Fries Many a Xavier University alum could tell you about ending alcohol-fueled nights at Pleasant Ridge Chili with a plate of gravy and cheese fries. But you don’t have to be a drunken college student to enjoy them. The recipe may be top secret, but the saucy concoction of shredded cheddar cheese and housemade gravy melting over crispy fries is a hometown favorite.

Yuca Fries Yuca (or cassava), a root vegetable native to South America, is a staple in lots of Latin American cuisine. Lucky for us we have several Latin and Latininspired restaurants with potato-like side dish on their menus. Whether tossed in garlic butter and served with cilantro crema (Maize) or served with guava habanero barbecue sauce (MashRoots), you’ll love this hot take on fries.

Sesame Waffle Fries Why a restaurant like Quan Hapa—with its mostly Vietnamese menu items— serves fries is beyond us, but we’re thankful that it does. At first glance, the sesame seasoning of the fries (complemented by the spicy sriracha ketchup) might leave you to wonder if you’re ordering from the right menu. Just know that the flavors aren’t misplaced—they’re right where they belong. PHOTOGRAPH BY LANCE ADKINS

DOWNTOWN

1$7,21 %85*(5 There’s a reason why parents like to name their first-born children after themselves. And it’s clear that Nation Kitchen & Bar knows the significance of this by placing its eponymous burger first on the menu. This brisket blend burger is covered in smoked cheddar, whiskey barbecue sauce and horseradish aioli, and topped with onion straws on a challah bun. It’s a smoky, tangy chunk of a burger worthy of its name. 1200 Broadway St., Pendleton, (513) 381-3794, nationkitchenandbar.com WEST

7+( 52<$/( Don’t let the $14 price tag scare you away. T la Bar + Kitchen’s smashed patty burger truly tastes like it was made for royalty. Two Angus reserve beef patties are flattened, grilled, and served with your choice of cheese, sauce, and run of the garden. It all sits on a Sixteen Bricks sesame seed bun worth eating on its own. You can’t go wrong with the fixings, but let us mouthwateringly reminisce on our choice of melted sharp cheddar, beer mustard aioli, Bibb lettuce, housemade dill pickles, and caramelized onions. 1212 Springfield Pike, Wyoming, (513) 821-8352, telabarand kitchen.com NKY

)$50(5¶6 '$8*+7(5 Amy and Dean Arvin, who also own Hebron Brew Haus, opened City Goat in 2018. Don’t be afraid of the “Baaaad Ass Burgers”—the double deckers, made with two quarter-pound patties, have crispy edges that come from a good pressing on a ﬂat-top grill. The Farmer’s Daughter adds a fried egg and jalapeño cream cheese on top of the typical onion/tomato/lettuce trifecta, giving you a little sweet and a little heat. 715 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 279-3533, visitthegoat.com

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7+( %,* %85*(5 After working up an appetite on the lanes of Oakley’s Madison Bowl, head over to the grill and order The Big Burger. Made with half a pound of griddled ground beef, this burger is topped with freshsliced veggies (and beer cheese and/or bacon, if you dare), and served on a brioche bun. It’s a simple burger—no bells and whistles—in a throwback diner environment, but this real good burger is sure to bowl you over. 4761 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 271-1270, madisondiner.com

Tickle Pickle’s

BUNS N ROSES

Goose & Elder’s

Tickle Pickle is already a local mecca for vegan fare of all kinds (we see you, Coney Bennet), but the Northside joint makes the bold claim of having one of the best black bean burgers in town. This uncomplicated veggie burger is for the black bean purist. Be warned—it’s a bit on the dense side, so pack on all the spicy ketchup you can mustard (ahem, muster). And yes, before you ask, the bun is vegan, too. 4176 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 954-4003

VEGGIE BURGER For every vegetarian who has suffered through enough microwaved black bean burgers to last a lifetime, there’s hope for you yet. Find it in Goose & Elder’s unassumingly named veggie burger, a haloumi-crowned beast that presents veggie connoisseurs with a rare sensation—feeling full and satisﬁed after a meal. The moist, delectably seasoned falafel is the main act, but it’s the creamy za’atar mayo that really steals the show and asks the question: Why can’t every veggie burger be this good? 1800 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 579-8400

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Bard’s

THE BARD BOY (VEGGIE EDITION) Herb & Thelma’s

VEGGIE BURGER Many moons ago, this 82-year-old Covington institution took home the title of Cincinnati Magazine’s best burger. Sure, it seems a bit blasphemous to talk about the bean patty at such a down-home dive. But by some stroke of genius, this Pike Street ﬁxture gets the veggie burger right, thanks in part to a fresh-off-the-grill patty, bread-andbutter pickles, and a special menu add-on: watermelon relish. Don’t question it. Just trust us on this one. 718 W. Pike St., Covington, (859) 491-6984

Bard’s Burgers & Chili may be best known for its Food Network–famous cheese curds and artery-clogging “Bardzilla” challenge, but don’t sleep on the vegetarian options. While there technically isn’t a veggie burger on the menu, you can substitute a house-made bean patty for practically anything on the burger menu. We opted for a vegetarian version of The Bard Boy, which follows the familiar Frisch’s formula (cheese, lettuce, pickle, and tartar sauce). Pair it with a half-and-half order of cheese curds and pickle chips, and you’ve got a meal that’ll make your taste buds sing. 3620 Decoursey Ave., Latonia, (859) 866-6017

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)5(6+ 52$67(' *$5/,& %85*(5

72% %85*(5 We admit it: Taste of Belgium isn’t typically where you’d go for burgers. After all, the place made its name on its Belgian waffles. With that said, you absolutely shouldn’t ignore the TOB Burger. Goat cheese and caramelized apples give the patty (made from a blend of short rib, brisket, and chuck) and accompanying bacon a sweet and salty bite that just might have you asking, “What waffle?” 1135 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 396-5800, authenticwafﬂe.com EAST

Friendly Stop may be a low-key neighborhood bar and grill reminiscent of the show Cheers, but it serves a burger topped with roasted garlic cloves that is so good the lack of atmospheric frills shouldn’t prevent the more pretentious among us from paying a visit. A classic, juicy, well-seasoned patty is topped with a layer of aromatic roasted garlic cloves, mayo, lettuce, and tomato. The end result: one perfectly creamy and pungent bite of burger after another. 985 Congress Ave., Glendale, (513) 771-7427, friendlystop.com

STACKED UP Friendly Stop’s Adam’s Double Deluxe with a side of onion rings.

(/ -()( NORTH

3% %$&21 Burgers at Lucky Dog Grille in Mason can get quite unorthodox. Case in point: the PB & Bacon Burger, which is every bit as decadent as it sounds. It’s a 1/3-pound steak burger topped with American cheese, sautéed onion, brown sugar bacon, and creamy peanut butter, all served on a pretzel bun. Like a sticky symphony, this burger blends sweet, salty, and savory ﬂavors with crunchy and creamy textures, hitting all the right notes. 729 Reading Rd., Mason, (513) 204-5825, luckydog grille.com

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Delwood, a Latin-infused Mt. Lookout gastropub, takes bar fare up a notch with the delightfully expressive El Jefe double burger (formerly known as the Delwood Double). Billed as “a taste of Peru,” this burger serves up two patties topped with avocado, salsa criolla (pickled red onions, serrano chiles, and lime juice), and a creamy Peruvian huancaina sauce, delivered on a toasted potato bun. The El Jefe mixes adventurous ﬂavors with classic comfort for a memorable burger experience. 3204 Linwood Ave., Mt. Lookout., (513) 260-9580, delwoodcincy.com CENTRAL

*$6 /,*+7 %85*(5 The half-pound signature cheeseburger at The Gas Light Café is a straightforward heaping helping of ﬂavor; even though lots of places serve a half-pound burger, this one seems way bigger. Deﬁnitely a two-hander. The Patty Melt is a delicious change of pace, served with grilled onions and two kinds of cheese on grilled rye bread. Make an evening of it and spend some time after dinner looking through the bins at Everybody’s Records next door. 6104 Montgomery Rd., Pleasant Ridge, (513) 631-6977, gaslightcincy.com

DOWNTOWN

+2//<:22' &2/( Is this burger really named after an old Drake lyric from a diss track? Or an homage to the entertainment industry? Does it matter? Either way, drama never tasted so good. Like everything else Senate does, the Hollywood Cole is fairly straightforward—an 8-ounce cheeseburger with lettuce and tomato. There’s plenty of ﬂavor, courtesy of the grilled onions and the In-N-Out-ish west coast burger sauce. Throw it all on a nicely toasted bun and your taste buds will want an encore. 1212 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-2020, senatepub. com EAST

),/(7 0,*121 %85*(5 Owners Tom and Marc Kunkemoeller have kept the quirky vibe from the original Turf Club, but more importantly, they’ve kept the burgers stacked. Treat yourself to the Filet Mignon Burger, made with a ground half-pound of the good stuff, and choose from a wide variety of menu items to pile your burger as high as you can handle. Our favorite? The roasted red peppers and mozzarella, a cheesy, savory burger that mashes up Italian ﬂavors with good ol’ pub grub in the best way possible. 4618 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 533-4222, turfclubcincy.com NORTH

68., -$1( For a succulent taste of Dixie, head to Bones’ Burgers in Montgomery and order The Suki Jane. This Southern Belle of a burger (which was inspired by Bones’s mother) is topped with creamy pimento cheese and a thick fried green tomato. This tasty tandem of toppings, while rich, doesn’t outshine the star of the show: the fresh, local, grass-fed beef still takes center stage. Only now it sings with a twang. 9721 Montgomery Rd, Montgomery, (513) 407-2939, bones-burgers.com

NKY

When you think “fine dining,” burgers aren’t exactly the first thing to come to mind. And while you wouldn’t necessarily go to these fancy pants places exclusively for the humble sandwich, it doesn’t mean you should ignore it. If you do, you’re definitely missing out. —AIESHA D. LITTLE

Boca Burger, $25

Leave it to Boca to up the ante on its burger with nothing more than a simple yet tangy “sauce maison” (because ketchup just won’t do here) and a darn-near-artisanal American cheese. The restaurant prefers to let this juicy patty speak for itself. We hear it loud and clear. 114 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati.com

JR Double Burger, $22 Made with two four-ounce patties from Avril-Bleh Meat Market, the “JR Double Burger” at Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse is a steak in burger form. American cheese, pickle relish, lettuce, bacon, and red onion are piled high and slathered with Duke’s mayonnaise. And like everything at a Ruby establishment, this burger is larger than life. 700 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com

Sakura Farms Burger, $17

The Sakura Farms Burger at Khora is made of Wagyu beef from the area’s foremost producer of that cut of meat. The marbled delicacy is made even more “melt in your mouth” delicious when it’s topped with sherry onions, triple cream brie, and the restaurant’s special bone marrow mayo. 37 W. Seventh St., downtown, (513) 977-2800, khorarestaurant.com

Burger, $14

Salazar’s burger is probably the plainest thing on its menu, but the sandwich is a gem among gems. With a cooked-to-perfection patty, the soft “Kaiser Jose” bun and toppings (aged cheddar cheese, bacon, and tomato) don’t have to shout to make this burger shine. Don’t forget to add a farm egg for a little razzle dazzle. 1401 Republic St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 621-7000, salazarcincinnati.com

P H OTO G R A P H BY L A N C E A D K I N S / I C O N I L LU S T R AT I O N BY E M I V I L L AV I C E N C I O

7+( *58)) %2< You do not need to know The Gruff’s house burger is an homage to a Frisch’s burger to enjoy it. The generous, lightly seasoned Prime Angus beef patty arrives on a toasted bun, a key step that makes all buns better, especially when the bun in question is brioche. There’s a bed of arugula, and the beef is topped with a bright housemade tartar sauce that’s more dill than pickle and more light than gloppy. Of course, you’ll get it with cheddar, because why not? And don’t sleep on the crunchy housemade pickles. 129 E. Second St., Covington, (859) 581-0040, atthegruff.com

KEEPING BIKE PLANS ON TRACK Wade Johnston photographed on the Oasis Line downtown on May 30, 2021.

Two Wheels 49

By Cedric Rose

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’m standing over my bike, breathing hard, just a few hundred feet from where the Beechmont Levee crosses the Little Miami River. I’ve ridden here with Wade Johnston, director of Tri-State Trails. With his soccer player’s build, he set a pace around the Lunken Airport bike path to this spot that my desk-set physique struggled to match. We’re here to see construction on a new bike and pedestrian bridge, dubbed the Beechmont Connector, which broke ground in early March and is slated for completion by fall 2022. It will connect the 78-mile Little Miami Scenic Trail with a growing network of urban bike trails around Cincinnati. It’s been an exciting year of progress on bike trails across the region, which is serendipitous given the surge in interest

1 Wasson Way 2 Uptown Connector 3 Little Miami Connector 4 Ohio River Trail (Oasis Line) 5 Beechmont Connector 6 Little Miami Scenic Trail 7 Gilbert Arts Connector 8 Murray Path 9 Lunken/Armleder Trail 10 Mill Creek Greenway 11 Canal Bikeway 12 Ohio River Trail West 13 Little Duck Creek Trail 14 Lick Run Greenway 15 Riverfront Commons

and downriver, with a half-mile section opening in Price Hill in August 2020 and a two-mile extension from Lunken Airport out to the California neighborhood this spring. To the north, crucial segments of trail in Hamilton and Metroparks that will link the Great Miami Bikeway with the Little Miami Scenic Trail were also announced. And progress on the muchlauded Wasson Way project continues full steam ahead. But the biggest local bike trail news this spring was Mayor John Cranley’s March 30 announcement that the city has come to an agreement with the owners of the “Oasis Line” railway along the Ohio River, allowing the city to use American Rescue Plan Act funds to build a dedicated bike/ hike path from downtown to Lunken Airport. This leg of bike trail along the river has been in urban planners’ sights for over a decade. The Beechmont Connector, Wasson Way, and the new rail trail along the

Mt. Storm Park

live in Mt. Washington, just across the river from where we’re watching a bulldozer push dirt down a former access road. As cyclists, we’ve used the access road as a somewhat perilous shortcut. If you bombed down Beechmont Avenue past ramps to and from State Route 32 and across the narrow levee road bridge, then played Frogger across four lanes of traffic, this access road got you to peaceful, green

Norwood

8 Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Garden

Xavier University

Fairfax

Mariemont

Burnet Woods

Owl’s Nest Park

University of Cincinnati

Ault Park

Little Miami Golf Center

Avoca Park

Clear Creek Park

Newtown Schmidt Field

Eden Park

Dayton

Evans Field

Central Business 11 District

12 Mt. Echo Park

X BOTH WADE JOHNSTON AND I

Mt. Airy Forest

Completed Trails Planned Trails The CROWN Loop

Hill. The loop would then be closed by the forthcoming north-south Mill Creek Greenway trail. This environmentally friendly dynamo will attract billions in development dollars and make our city healthier, safer, more fun, and more attractive as a destination or a place to live. And there are more hopes hidden in the CROWN. Some see it as a way to reconnect neighborhoods and residents who have been cut off by a century of car-centric urban planning and design.

The Banks

Sawyer15

Embshoff Woods

Bellevue

Point Stanberry Park

Ft. Thomas

Smale Park

Ludlow

6 Alms Park

Friendship Park

Newport

Covington Devou Park Riverside Park

in bicycling and walking generated by the pandemic. The city’s first ever two-way protected bike lane was installed in March along Clifton Avenue near the University of Cincinnati. The temporary pilot lane is expected to become permanent. The Ohio River Trail was extended both up-

California Woods

river are all part of a grand vision for a truly connected system of trails around Cincinnati, dubbed the CROWN—Cincinnati Riding or Walking Network. The CROWN loop will touch 54 communities, running from Northside to Madisonville, down to Lunken, then west along the Ohio River to downtown and on to Lower Price

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miles of bike trail. I didn’t get my driver’s license until I was 30, so bikes have always been part of my life. That includes bike commuting when possible for the better part of several decades. I’ve watched the slow growth of Cincinnati’s cycling infrastructure and beneﬁted from using it. But progress can

seem fragmented. Johnston and I talk about the relative merits of on-road vs. off-road riding, “protected” bike trails like the CROWN, and Cincinnati’s recent progress on bike infrastructure. In many cases, on-road bike infrastructure has been laid down where road rehabs are happening, he says, ON THE MOVE Cincinnati is becoming a more bike-friendly city because that’s the cheapest time to do thanks to the efforts of (from left) John Brazina, Wade Johnston, Jan it. “And you can get a little piece, but Portman, Wym Portman, Joe Humpert, and many others. maybe it doesn’t connect. So people of getting bike infrastructure built in this ment of Natural Resources). For example, are confused, Why doesn’t it connect? What the CROWN is doing is building the region. Bicycle infrastructure groups and when the city of Cincinnati couldn’t afford network.” Johnston nods to where the new advocates have shown up at thousands of the local match on a transportation grant Beechmont Connector trail bridge will be meetings to push for bike lanes over park- for an extension of the Ohio River Trail built beside the levee. “And connections ing lanes. Great Parks of Hamilton County, in 2017, city planners almost returned like this in particular are going to be a huge Anderson Township, and the city of Cin- the money. Tri-State Trails sought a tocatalyst.” cinnati have all been big leaders, Johnston tal of $500,000 from Anderson TownSo what? you ask. Trails are great for a says, in pushing for trail infrastructure ship, Hamilton County, and Interact for Saturday walk or ride where you’re occa- and pedestrian connectivity. “But having Health, Johnston says, which allowed the sionally passed by a peloton of Lycra-clad an independent third party like Tri-State city to find the remaining funds to extend dudes racing to the next trail-side brewery. Trails and Green Umbrella coordinating the path. It’s a public-private partnership, What’s the big deal? behind the scenes for these collaborations he says, for which he’s able to act as quarFirst of all, even if you never set foot is the encouragement that communities terback. or tire on the CROWN, urban bike infrastructure makes everyone safer on roads. SAFETY, ECONOMIC VALUE, AND EVEN IF YOU NEVER A 2019 study published in Journal of good clean fun; what’s not to love? When SET FOOT OR TIRE Transport & Health analyzed traffic crash I Zoom-chat with Jan and Wym Portman, data over a 13-year period in cities that the CROWN’s most prominent supportON THE CROWN added “protected” bike lanes to streets. It ers and fund-raisers, they bring home TRAILS, BIKE INFRAfound that these separate lanes resulted what makes this project even more vital STRUCTURE MAKES in 44 percent fewer deaths and 50 percent to the here and now. EVERYONE SAFER fewer serious injuries. The reason? In the Since 2006 Wym has served on the ON THE ROADS. parlance of planners, protected bike paths board of the Ohio River Way, one of the “calmed” traffic. Cars travelled slightly CROWN’s partner organizations. It’s long more slowly, and more cyclists and walkers need to connect,” he says. pushed for a trail linking Lunken Airport meant more bikes everywhere, plus drivers Johnston is one of only two full-time and downtown, but, he says, “As a nonwho themselves enjoyed those activities, employees at Tri-State Trails, the brain- profit, it’s difficult to get the railroad’s atwhich encourages alertness. child of local sustainability nonprofit tention.” He credits Cranley’s leadership Bike infrastructure also drives devel- Green Umbrella. With financial support with closing the deal to acquire the riveropment and economic growth and raises from the Haile Foundation and the Good front right of way. real estate values. Johnston cites the In- Devou Foundation, it works to connect the The Portmans enjoy walking, running, dianapolis Cultural Trail as an example. A dots of a regional trail network. A nine- and cycling and are passionate about the 2015 economic impact report found that county Regional Trails Plan was com- outdoors and conservation causes. One property values within one block of the pleted in 2014, and from that the CROWN of the first boards Wym served on locally was Camp Joy, where he saw that many 8.1-mile multi-use trail increased just emerged. over $1 billion. The CROWN will be more Tri-State Trails helps communities city kids lacked outdoor experience and than four times longer. navigate the complexities of funding, confidence. That’s still in the back of his Leaning against his black Surly Cross- including grants through OKI (Ohio- mind, he says, when he speaks with people Check with a rear rack kiddie-seat adaptor, Kentucky-Indiana Regional Council of from neighborhoods like Avondale about Johnston outlines the complicated ballet Governments) and ODNR (Ohio Depart- the CROWN. C O N T I N U E D O N PAG E 7 2

P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O N AT H A N W I L L I S

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BY J I M D e B R O S S E

I L LU S T R AT I O N BY S A R A H M A X W E LL , F O LI O A R T

Go!

Go! Go!

→ NASTY DIVORCE PROCEEDINGS BETWEEN

JARED DAVIS , THE FOUNDER OF CHECK ’N GO, AND HIS WIFE BRIDGET OFFER A RARE PEEK INSIDE THE HIGHLY PROFITABLE AND SECRETIVE WORLD OF PAYDAY LENDERS. IT’S ALSO A SALACIOUS SIDESHOW OF RICH PEOPLE BEHAVING BADLY.

P H OTO G R A P H BY B R I T TA N Y D E X T E R

H E N B R I D G E T DAV I S got started in the family’s payday lending business in 1996, there was just one Check ’n Go store in Cincinnati. She says she did it all: customer service, banking duties, even painting walls. The company had been established two years earlier by her husband, Jared Davis, and was growing rapidly. There were 100 Check ’n Go locations by 1997, when Jared and Bridget (née Byrne) married and traveled the country together looking for more locations to open storefront outlets. They launched another 400 stores in 1998, mostly in strip malls and abandoned gas stations in low-income minority neighborhoods where the payday lending target market abounds. Bridget drove the supply truck and helped select locations and design the store layouts. But Jared soon fired his wife for committing what may be the ultimate sin in the payday lending business: She forgave a customer’s debt. “A young woman came to pay her $20 interest payment,” Bridget wrote in court documents last year during divorce proceedings from Jared. “I pulled her file, calculated that she had already paid $320 to date on a principle [sic] loan of $100. I told her she was paid in full. [Jared] fired me, stating,‘We are here to make money, not

help customers manage theirs. If you can’t do that, you can’t work here.’ ” It’s a business philosophy that pays well, especially if you’re charging fees and interest rates of 400 percent that can more than triple the amount of the loan in just five months—the typical time most payday borrowers need to repay their debt, says the Pew Charitable Trusts, a nonprofit organization focused on public policy. Cincinnati-based Check ’n Go now operates more than 1,100 locations in 25 states as well as an internet lending service with 24/7 access from the comfort of your own home, according to its website. Since its founding, the company has conducted more than 50 million transactions. What the website doesn’t say is that many, if not most, of those transactions were for small loans of $50 to $500 to working people trying to scrape by and pay their bills. In most states—including Ohio, until it reformed its payday lending laws in 2019—borrowers typically fork over more than one-third of their paycheck to meet the deadline for repayment, usually in two weeks. To help guarantee repayment, borrowers turn over access to their checking account or deposit a check with the lender. In states that don’t offer protection, customers go back again and again to borrow more money from the same payday lender, typically up to 10 times, driving themselves into a debt trap that can lead to bankruptcy. Jared and Bridget Davis are embroiled in a nasty court battle related to his 2019 divorce filing in Hamilton County Domestic Relations Court. Thousands of pages of filings and 433 docket entries by April 26 offer the public a rare glimpse into the business operations of Check ’n Go, one of Cincinnati’s largest privately-owned companies, as well as personal lifestyles funded by payday lending. The company cleared $77 million in profit in 2018, a figure that dipped the following year to $55 million, according to an audit by Deloitte. That drop in revenue may have something to do with the payday lending reform laws and interest rate caps passed recently in Ohio as well as a growing number of other states.

TH E DAY-TO - DAY BUS I N E S S transactions that provide such profit are a depressing window into how those who live on the edge of financial security are often stuck with few options for improving their situations. If a borrower doesn’t repay or refinance his or her original loan, a lender like Check ’n Go deposits the guarantee check and lets it bounce, causing the borrower to incur charges for the bounced check and eventually lose his or her checking account, says Nick DiNardo, an attorney for the Legal Aid Society of Greater Cincinnati. After two missed payments, payday lenders usually turn over the debt to a collection agency. If the collection agency fails to collect the full amount of the original loan as well as all fees and interest, it goes to court to garnish the borrower’s wages. That devastating experience is all too familiar to Anthony Smith, a 60-year-old Wyoming resident who says he was laid off from several management positions over a 20-year period. He turned to payday lenders as his credit rating dropped and soon found himself caught in a debt trap that took him years to escape. Two things happened in 2019, Smith says, that turned around his financial fortunes. First, he found a stable manufacturing job with the Formica Company locally, and then he took his mother’s advice and opened a credit union account. GE Credit Union not only gave him a reasonable loan to pay off his $2,500 debt but also issued him his first credit card in a decade. “I had been a member [of the credit union] for just two months, and I had a credit rating of 520. Can you imagine?” he says. Smith says he is now debt-free for the first time in 10 years. Consumer advocates say Check ’n Go is one of the biggest payday lending operations in the nation. But knowing its exact ranking is difficult because most payday lending companies, including Check ’n Go and its parent company CNG Holdings, are privately held and reluctant to disclose their finances. Brothers Jared and David Davis own the majority of the company’s privately held stock. David bought into the company in 1995, but CNG got its game-changing in-

fusion of capital from the brothers’ father, Allen Davis, who retired as CEO of thenProvident Bank in 1998. Allen sold off $37 million in stock options and essentially became CNG’s bank and consultant. By 2005, however, the sons were part of a public court battle against their father. Allen accused Jared and David of treating his millions in CNG stock as compensation instead of a transfer from his ex-wife (and the brothers’ mother), sticking him with a $13 million tax bill. In turn, the brothers accused Allen of putting his mistress and his yacht captain on the company payroll, taking $1.2 million in fees without board approval, and leading the company into ventures that lost Check ’n Go a lot of money. Several years of legal fighting later, the IRS was still demanding its $13 million. CNG officials did not respond to requests for comment for this story. J a re d a n d D av i d split $22 million in profit from CNG in 2018 and, according to the Deloitte audit, CNG’s balance sheet showed another $42 million that could be split between the two brothers in 2019. Jared, however, elected not to receive his $21 million distribution “in order to create this artificial financial crisis and shelter millions of dollars from an equitable split between us,” according to Bridget’s divorce filing. Worse, she claims, Jared said they would be responsible for paying taxes out of their personal accounts rather than from CNG’s company earnings, making her personally responsible for half of the $5.5 million in taxes for 2019. She believes it wasn’t happenstance that $5.5 million was wired to Jared’s private bank account

in December of that same year. Bridget has refused to sign the joint tax return, and Jared ﬁled a complaint with the court saying a late tax ﬁling would cost them $1 million in penalties and missed tax opportunities. “For the duration of our marriage and to the present, Jared has full and complete control of all money paid to us from various investments we have made in addition to our main source of income, CNG,” Bridget wrote in her motion. She suspects that Jared, without her knowledge or consent, plowed the money for their taxes and from other sources of income into Black Diamond Group, the fund that invests in the Agave & Rye restaurant chain. Beyond the original restaurant opened in Covington in 2018, “they have opened four other locations in one year,” she wrote, including Louisville and Lexington. (The ninth location opened in Hamilton this spring.) Agave & Rye’s website touts its Mexican fare as “a chefinspired take on the standard taco, elevating this simple food into something epic!” In his response, Jared wrote, “We have very limited regular sources of income.” He says he isn’t receiving any additional distributions from CNG, the couple’s primary source of income, “and this is not within my control. The company has declared that we would not make any further distributions in 2020 given economic circumstances. This decision is based on a formula and is not discretionary.” Agave & Rye helped produce $645,000 in income for Black Diamond in 2020 but has paid out $890,000 in loans, he says. Through August 31, 2020, he wrote, the C O N T I N U E D O N P A G E 7 4

Check ’n Go cleared $77 million in profit in 2018 and $55 million in 2019, say divorce court documents.

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Virtual Visits for a Healthy You Health has taken on a new importance these days. But at Mercy Health, yours has always been our top priority. And we’re as committed as we’ve always been to providing you with high-quality, personalized care—whether safely in our clean facilities or virtually from the comfort of your own home. Visit mercy.com/primarycare to connect with a primary care provider today.

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HEALTH WATCH *LIVING HEALTHY IN CINCINNATI

CANCER RESEARCH

CRACKING CANCER’S CODE

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INSIDE

WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT GENETIC TESTING DIRECTTOCONSUMER TESTS: WORTH THE HYPE?

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HEALTH WATCH CANCER RESEARCH & GENETIC TESTING counseling aspect. Why might you be at risk? What’s your family history? What’s your personal history? What might you be looking for?” The actual testing, he says, is more like the grand finale. Typically, it’s a blood test (or a spit test, if you’re particularly needle-phobic) that yields results within just a few weeks. If that test comes back negative, there might not be any need for follow-up. But if testing reveals that a person carries a high risk for developing cancer, that opens the door to additional conversations about how to manage risk and best move forward, whether that means more frequent screenings or even risk-reducing procedures. “The idea of testing someone before they have cancer is that fact that you might be able to prevent the cancer,” Guinigundo says.

UNDERSTANDING YOUR RISK WITH

GENETIC TESTING TODAY, GENETIC TESTING FOR CANCER IS MORE WIDELY AVAILABLE AND AFFORDABLETHAN EVER BEFORE.

our mother had breast cancer. So did her older sister. Does that mean you’re going to get it too? The answer’s almost never cut and dried. But it’s easier than ever to know your risk for certain cancers thanks to advances in genetic testing that have put local treatment centers leaps and bounds ahead of the curve. While lifestyle—specifically, diet, exercise, and smoking habits—can factor significantly into your risk of developing certain cancers, understanding your family history can help you and your doctor develop personalized guidelines for screening and prevention. And when it comes to

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detecting cancer, those early warning signs can make a world of difference.

WHAT EXACTLY DOES GENETIC TESTING ENTAIL? Before a patient even walks through the door of a genetic specialist’s office, they’ll complete a set of health history forms and prepare for a deep dive into personal and family medical history to help doctors determine possible patterns. “It’s basically a conversation,” says Andy Guinigundo, cancer genetic specialist at OHC. “There’s very little in terms of physical assessment, unless that somehow comes up. But mostly, it’s the

That depends. Genetics are only a piece of the puzzle when it comes to cancer, and many people whose relatives have developed the disease will never end up getting it themselves. “All cancer is genetic,” says James Maher, M.D., Physician Executive at the TriHealth Cancer Institute. “But not all cancer is inherent.” According to the National Cancer Institute, inherited genetic mutations play a major role in about 5 to 10 percent of all cancers. Certain cancers, like breast, colon, ovarian, and endometrial, are more likely than others to run in the family. If you’re worried about your risk for hereditary cancer or have limited insight into your family medical history, consider talking to your doctor about meeting with a genetic specialist to explore your risk. Luckily, genetic testing is more affordable and accessible than ever before. At both the TriHealth Cancer Institute and OHC, out-of-pocket costs for testing typically run around $250. TriHealth will even offer “cascade testing” to family members if your results come back positive. “This used to be very expensive, and now it’s not, relatively speaking,” says Guinigundo. “Testing is so much more accessible, even in the clinical setting.”

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BUSTING MYTHS ABOUT GENETIC TESTING FOR CANCER

f you’re thinking about consulting with a genetic specialist to examine your cancer risk, you probably have questions about what to expect. Andy Guinigundo, cancer genetic specialist at OHC, has heard them all. We sat down with Guinigundo to bust six common myths about genetic testing for cancer.

Myth #1: You’ll need a biopsy. “When you say genetic testing, in our world, that means lots of different things,” Guini-

THIRDPARTY TESTING: SHOULD YOU BELIEVE THE HYPE? Direct-to-consumer test kits claim to help you understand your cancer risk.

n 2018, a Cincinnati woman made headlines when data from a thirdparty DNA test revealed a startling result: She purportedly carried a cancercausing genetic mutation. But when the

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Myth #2: If you have a mutation, you’re going to get cancer. Possessing a certain gene or mutation doesn’t necessarily mean that a cancer diagnosis is in your future. It’s not etched in stone, Guinigundo says. But knowing your risk could change the way you and your doctors think about prevention tactics. A patient with Lynch Syndrome (hereditary nonpolyposis colorectal cancer), for instance, might need a yearly colonoscopy, rather than one every 10 years. Myth #3: Hereditary cancer syndromes skip a generation. “The gene is passing from generation to generation,” Guinigundo says. “Scientifically, it cannot skip a generation.” While one generation may not inherit the syndrome, or they may inherit it but not get cancer, the gene never skips a generation. It’s passing at a rate of about 50 percent.

woman took her results to a genetic specialist, it turned out to be a false alarm. Some biotechnology companies claim to be able to determine your cancer risk using a sample of your DNA. A few years ago, 23andMe even introduced an FDAauthorized genetic test specifically for breast cancer. Genetic tests for cancer are more accessible than ever—but doctors urge a healthy dose of skepticism when it comes to direct-to-consumer test kits. “I think it’s really helpful to understand, if something’s positive, is that a true finding with that type of test?” says Elise Bendik, a genetic counselor with the TriHealth Cancer Institute. “And if it’s negative, what could it be missing or overlooking?” When professional geneticists test for breast cancer-causing BRCA1 and BRCA2 genes alone, they’re looking for more than 500 mutations in each. Many popular third-party tests for BRCA only

Myth #4: Lifestyle doesn’t matter. If genetic testing reveals that you have a cancer syndrome or mutation, you’ll want to reduce your risk as much as possible— and that might require making lifestyle changes. For Guinigundo, it’s all about nature vs. nurture. While your nature is what you’ve inherited genetically, how you nurture your body is just as important. Diet, exercise, smoking habits, and alcohol consumption all matter when it comes to your risk for cancer. Myth #5: Testing is expensive. Technological advances in the world of genetics have made it easier (and cheaper) than ever to know your risk. OHC, for instance, works with several labs that place caps on their testing fees. If a patient’s insurance refuses to cover the cost of the test, the plan reverts to a patient out-of-pocket cap of just $250. Myth #6: If your insurance company finds out, they’ll pull your coverage. Decades ago, this one might have actually been true. But thanks to the Genetic Information Nondiscrimination Act of 2008, a patient can’t lose their health insurance just because of a genetic mutation.

test for about three particular mutations, says Andy Guinigundo, cancer genetic specialist at OHC. And while those three mutations are important, there are nearly 1,000 additional genes that could point to an increased risk for breast cancer. “If you find one, come see someone like me and we can talk about what that means. We’re going to confirm it,” Guinigundo says. “What’s scary is the person who gets tested and it comes back negative and they go, I’m in the clear. What [third-party tests] are missing is this marriage of the testing piece, which is kind of the grand finale, and the personal history. It’s missing the family history.” Guinigundo advises consumers to approach direct-to-consumer testing companies with caution. If you’re worried about your genetic risk for developing certain cancers, consult with a genetic specialist to discuss a plan for testing and prevention.

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gundo says. When genetic specialists are looking for gene mutations, they typically examine a random blood sample from a patient. This process is markedly different and much less invasive than tumor testing, which looks to see if mutations are present specifically in a tumor, rather in the person’s blood.

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SENIOR LIV ING Setting a New Standard for Memory Care At Christian Village Community in Mt. Healthy, residents with memory needs now benefit from an entire floor dedicated to safety and support. —MacKenzie Tastan

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SENIOR LIV ING COMMU NIT Y DIRECTORY

Review the listings below for senior living communities that meet your level-of-care needs. You’ll ﬁnd campuses that offer independent living, assisted living, continuing care, skilled nursing facilities, rehabilitation units, adult day programs, and more. With contact information at your ﬁngertips, we make it easy to request more information or to schedule a visit.

CEN TR A L THE COURTYARD AT SEASONS 7100 DEARWESTER DR., CINCINNATI, OH 45236, (513) 437-3948, SENIORLIFESTYLE.COM Type of Facility: Continuum of Care Total Units: 128; 83 Assisted Living, 45 Nursing Beds Average Age: 80 Total Staff: 270 (including Seasons) This continuum of care retirement community is located on campus with Seasons in Kenwood. Choose from a wide array of lifestyle options. Designed for those who want companionship and amenities with a hospitality-centered staff and a stimulating environment.

SEASONS RETIREMENT COMMUNITY 7300 DEARWESTER DR., CINCINNATI, OH 45236, (513) 984-9400, SENIORLIFESTYLE.COM Type of Facility: Independent Living, Continuum of Care on campus at Courtyard Total Units: 343; 216 Independent Living, 83 Assisted Living, 45 Nursing Average Age: 80 Total Staff: 250 (including Courtyard) Offers studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments on a campus surrounded by lush greenery in the heart of Kenwood. Amenities include awardwinning dining, live music, a ﬁtness center and outdoor pool, a beauty salon and barbershop, a library, ﬁtness classes, and more.

NORT H ANTHOLOGY OF BLUE ASH 4351 SYCAMORE CREEK DR., BLUE ASH, OH 45242, (513) 394-6932 Type of Facility: Independent Living, Assisted Living, and Memory Care Total Units: 107 Independent Living Apts., 60 Assisted Living Apts., 32 Memory Care Apts. Average Age: NP Total Staff: NP Anthology of Blue Ash offers its residents comfort, convenience, and community. Its care team is there for residents with concierge services, support with activities of daily living, and transportation to appointments and outings. With numerous services and amenities like gourmet meals, an indoor pool, and golf simulator, the Anthology team

is always evolving and improving ways to connect with and support residents. CEDAR VILLAGE SENIOR LIVING COMMUNITY 5467 CEDAR VILLAGE DR., MASON, OH 45040, (513) 754-3100, CEDAR VILLAGE.ORG Type of Facility: Retirement Community Total Units: 105 Independent/Assisted Living Apts., 25 Long-Term Memory Supports Beds, 87 Long-Term Care Beds, 50 ShortTerm Rehab Beds Average Age: 85 Total Staff: 275 At Cedar Village, we live life to the fullest every day. With gourmet menu selections in our Garden Dining Room, a traditional Jewish-style deli, a robust activity schedule, off-campus activities, a library, resident computers, a pool, and beautiful grounds, you’ll wonder why you didn’t move here sooner. It’s the best way to help your loved one stay as active and interested in life as possible when the body or mind begins growing older.

THE CHRISTIAN VILLAGE AT MASON 411 WESTERN ROW RD., MASON, OH 45040, (513) 398-1486, CHRISTIAN VILLAGES.ORG Type of Facility: Life Plan Community Independent Living, Assisted Living, Short-term Rehabilitation, Memory Support, Long-term Nursing Total Units: 379; 189 Garden Homes, 76 Assisted Living Garden Apts., 41 Memory Support Apts., 73 Skilled Nursing Beds Average Age: NP Total Staff: 185 The staff is dedicated to helping residents enjoy a fulﬁlling, joyful lifestyle in a relaxed, faith-ﬁlled community. The 85-acre lakeside campus features independent living Garden Homes and private rehabilitation suites. The staff’s approach to care is grounded in compassionate service and is built upon a multidimensional approach that we call “Service From the Heart.”

THE LODGE NURSING AND REHAB CENTER 9370 UNION CEMETERY RD., LOVELAND, OH 45140, (513) 677-4900, LODGECARECENTER.COM Type of Facility: Skilled Nursing Facility, Hospice Care, Rehabilitation, Intermedi-

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ate Care, Secured Dementia Unit Total Units: 120 Skilled Beds, 36 Alzheimer’s Units Average Age: 84 Total Staff: 156 Provides state-of-the-art rehabilitation for short and long-term, Long-Term Care, and Alzheimer’s Care. Entire, newly renovated building features private rooms with private bath and showers. Rated Four Stars by CMS and Top 100 by U.S. News & World Report. Preferred provider for most all major hospitals in Cincinnati. Accepts Medicare, Medicaid, and most major insurances.

THE LODGE RETIREMENT COMMUNITY 12050 MONTGOMERY RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45249, (513) 683-9966, LODGERETIREMENTCOMMUNITY .COM Type of Facility: Independent Living, Assisted Living Total Units: 213; 24 Cottages, 61 Independent Living Apts., 60 Assisted Living Apts. Average Age: 82 Total Staff: 135 Offers efﬁciency, studio, oneand two-bedroom apartments. Cottages are separate two-bedroom apartments located next door. No move-in fee. Beautiful rustic charm and courtyard with pond, gazebo, and walking paths. Rated Five Stars by CMS and Top 100 by U.S. News & World Report.

MERCY COMMUNITY AT WINTON WOODS 10290 MILL RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45231, (513) 825-9300, MERCY.COM Type of Facility: Independent Living Apts. for income-qualifying seniors, ages 62+ Total Units: 73 Average Age: 75 Total Staff: 2 On beautiful grounds in a former seminary, residents enjoy a peaceful community surrounded by stained-glass windows, tree-ﬁlled views, and friends.

OTTERBEIN LEBANON SENIOR LIFESTYLE COMMUNITY 585 N. STATE ROUTE 741, LEBANON, OH 45036, (513) 933-5471, OTTERBEIN.ORG/LEBANON Type of Facility: Full-service Continuing Care Retirement Community Total Units: 784; 490 Independent Living, 38 Assisted Living, 256 Nursing Beds Average Age: NA Total Staff: 540 Nonproﬁt and faith-based since 1912.

Offers a wide variety of apartments, patio homes, and ranch homes with many on-site services and amenities, including on-campus security, an emergency call system, an extensive programs department, transportation, and a life enrichment center for ﬁtness. SERENE SUITES 9870 REDHILL DR., BLUE ASH, OH 45242, (513) 745-5000, THESERENE SUITES.COM Type of Facility: Memory Care Total Units: 66 Average Age: 70 Total Staff: NP Specializes in memory care and provides loving support to those living with Alzheimer’s disease and related dementias, along with their loved ones. With a care philosophy that’s deeply rooted in rigorous academic research and memory care advancements, Serene Suites is committed to supporting your loved one’s whole-body health.

TWIN LAKES AT MONTGOMERY 9840 MONTGOMERY RD., MONTGOMERY, OH 45242, (513) 247-1300, LEC.ORG Type of Facility: Senior Living Communities Total Units: 354; 137 Villas, 6 Manor Homes, 140 Apts., 28 Assisted Living, 43 Nursing Beds Average Age: 78–88 Total Staff: 209 This Life Enriching Communities campus offers villa and apartment accommodations for independent lifestyles, assisted living, short-term rehab, and long-term nursing services with a commitment to whole-person well-being, all conveniently located in the heart of Montgomery.

E A ST ANTHOLOGY OF ANDERSON TOWNSHIP 6849 BEECHMONT AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45230 (513) 401-7090, ANTHOLOGYSENIORLIVING.COM Type of Facility: Assisted Living and Memory Care Total Units: 34 Memory Care Apts., 60 Assisted Living Apts. Average Age: NP Total Staff: NP Anthology of Anderson Township has made it a mission to provide a unique senior living experience that provides residents with the best in hospitality and care, so they can live their story in

When independence is your goal, make Council on Aging your first call INDEPENDENCE. IT MEANS SOMETHING different for everyone. But most of us would like to be as independent as possible, for as long as possible – regardless of age, health status or disability. For many of us, independence means staying in our own home (or a caregiver’s home) for as long as possible, even if we need help cooking, getting to a doctor’s appointment, taking our medication, or even bathing. It may mean moving to an assisted living community, where you can have meals, socialize and get extra support if needed, but still have your freedom and privacy.

“When independence is your goal but you’re not sure where to start, your first call should be to Council on Aging.”

For 50 years, Council on Aging (COA) has been matching individuals and families with local programs, services and resources that promote independence and help people live with dignity. We understand that every situation is different, and it is our goal to help you live life on your own terms. Through a variety of publicly-funded programs, COA serves more than 27,000 people of all ages and income levels across our five-county service area (Butler, Clermont, Clinton, Hamilton and Warren counties). For those seeking to understand their options, COA operates a call center through which anyone can access unbiased information, advice and referral on any topic related to aging, disability services or caregiving. When independence is your goal but you’re not sure where to start, your first call should be to Council on Aging.

Independence could be temporary, extra support in your home after you or a loved one has been discharged from the hospital. Or, it could be freedom from the physical, emotional or financial strain of a chronic health condition such as diabetes, heart disease or arthritis. It may be having the confidence to do the things you enjoy, without the fear of falling. For family caregivers, independence may be the ability to go to work, a child’s soccer game or the grocery store without worrying about the health and safety of an older loved one.

ūƭŠČĿŕ ūŠ ĳĿŠĳ ɚ ~ ɛ Ŀƙ î ŠūŠƎƑūǶƥ ūƑĳîŠĿǕîƥĿūŠ ēĚēĿČîƥĚē ƥū ĚŠĺîŠČĿŠĳ ƐƭîŕĿƥǋ ūĲ ŕĿĲĚ ĲūƑ ūŕēĚƑ îēƭŕƥƙɈ ƎĚūƎŕĚ ǅĿƥĺ ēĿƙîċĿŕĿƥĿĚƙɈ their families and caregivers. COA promotes choice, independence, dignity and well-being through a range of services that help people remain independent for as long as possible. COA is a state-designated Area Agency on Aging serving Butler, Clermont, Clinton, Hamilton and Warren counties. One call to COA links people to the wide variety of agencies, information and programs that serve older adults and people with disabilities.

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a beautiful, meaningful way. While their staff takes care of the housework and landscaping maintenance, the morning is free to stretch out in a yoga class and pop into the salon to freshen up your look or get a massage. DEUPREE HOUSE 3939 ERIE AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45208, CONTACT GINI TARR, (513) 561-4200, DEUPREEHOUSE.COM Type of Facility: Continuous Care Total Units: 145; 24 Private Rooms at Deupree Cottages Nursing Care Center Average Age: 80+ Total Staff: 125 Offers ﬁrst-class amenities and services. Monthly rental apartments and entrance fee plans are available, along with Enriched Living options for those requiring some daily living assistance. Highly rated by the Centers of Medicare and Medicaid Services. Accreditation from CARF and CCAC.

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EASTGATE VILLAGE 776 OLD STATE ROUTE 74, CINCINNATI, OH 45245, (513) 753-4400, EASTGATEVILLAGE.COM Type of Facility: Independent Living with

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THE KENWOOD BY SENIOR STAR 5435 KENWOOD RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45227, (513) 561-9300, KEN WOODBYSENIORSTAR.COM Type of Facility: Active Living, Independent Living, Assisted Living, Memory Care, Nursing Care Total Units: 309; 24 Active Living, 183 Independent Living, 47 Assisted Living, 41 Memory Care, 14 Nursing Care Average Age: 55+ Total Staff: 200 Offers condolike rentals, plus monthly leases on apartments, featuring city views in a world-class atmosphere. Amenities include 24/7 maintenance and security, six dining venues, an indoor pool, climate-controlled underground parking, laundry rooms, a spa and salon, a well-

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ness center, transportation, individually inspired programs, and optional add-on services. MARJORIE P. LEE RETIREMENT COMMUNITY 3550 SHAW AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45208, CONTACT KAREN CHRISTOPHER: (513) 533-5000, MARJORIE PLEE.COM Type of Facility: Continuous Care Total Units: 160 Average Age: 80+ Total Staff: 257 Offers all levels of care, including independent and assisted living, skilled nursing for short-stay rehab and long-term care, and Alzheimer’s and dementia support. Welcomes older adults of all faiths. Apartments offered on a monthly rental basis with no entrance fees or long-term contracts. Highly rated by the Centers of Medicare and Medicaid Services. Accreditation CARF and CCAC.

PINEBROOK RETIREMENT LIVING 5877 WOLFPEN-PLEASANT HILL RD., MILFORD, OH 45150, (513) 831-5222, PINEBROOKLIVING.COM Type of Facility: Independent Living with

services; Assisted Living Total Units: 124; Independent Living Suites/Studios, one- and two-bedroom units with full kitchens and walk-in showers Average Age: 81 Total Staff: 89 Memory Care Independent living, assisted living and memory care in a retirement community featuring restaurant-style dining, dozens of classes and clubs, 24/7 licensed nurses, programs, entertainment excursions, and events to ensure residents thrive.

W EST ALOIS ALZHEIMER CENTER 70 DAMON RD., CINCINNATI, OH 45218, (513) 605-1000, ALOIS.COM Type of Facility: Specialized Care: Assisted Living, Nursing Care, Respite, Adult Day Enrichment Program Total Units: 113; 20 Assisted Living, 93 Nursing Beds Average Age: NP Total Staff: NP As experts in Alzheimer’s disease, the care team partners with highly credentialed physicians, pharmacists, and psychiatrists to provide the best care possible. Alois offers ﬁve distinct levels of care.

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BAYLEY 990 BAYLEY DR., CINCINNATI, OH 45233, (513) 347-5500, BAYLEYLIFE. ORG Type of Facility: Continuing Care Retirement Community Total Units: 295; 78 Independent Cottages, 80 Assisted Living, 27 Assisted Living Memory Support, 110 Skilled Nursing Beds Average Age: Health Care: 83.7; Assisted Living: 87; Independent Living: 82.6 Total Staff: 380 Provides services for seniors through both residential and community programs. Inpatient and outpatient speech, occupational, and physical rehab services available. Now offers nonmedical home services for seniors living on campus and in the community, promoting independence and healthy lifestyles.

BIRCHWOOD CARE CENTER 4070 HAMILTON-MASON RD., FAIRFIELD TOWNSHIP, OH 45011, (513) 868-3300, HILLANDALE.COM Type of Facility: Skilled Nursing Care Total Units: 75 Average Age: NP Total Staff: NP As part of Hillandale, Birchwood puts family ﬁrst, treating every resident as our own. Our private, shared-private and semi-private

nursing suites are ﬁlled with meaningful touches-like a personalized memory case for your prized, familiar possessions. From charming, colorful outdoor courtyards to salon services and an amazing array of social activities, every part of life at Birchwood embraces you with warm hospitality. THE CHRISTIAN VILLAGE AT MT. HEALTHY 8097 HAMILTON AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45231, (513) 931-5000, CHRIS TIANVILLAGES.ORG Type of Facility: Independent Living, Assisted Living, Assisted Living Memory Care, Skilled Nursing, and Rehabilitation Total Units: 102 Residential Living, 75 Nursing Beds Average Age: Varies Total Staff: 180 Provides integrated health services for older adults and offers a full range of social, cultural, spiritual, and creative opportunities. Nonproﬁt, faith-based community provides a full continuum of care and features private rehabilitation suites for short-term skilled nursing.

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MAPLE KNOLL VILLAGE 11100 SPRINGFIELD PIKE, CINCINNATI, OH 45246, (513) 782-2717, MAPLEKNOLL.ORG Type of Facility: Continuing Care Retirement Community Total Units: 476; 143 Villas, 125 Apts., 63 Assisted Living, 145 Nursing Beds Average Age: 79 Total Staff: 498 Nonproﬁt community located on an updated, 54-acre campus ﬁlled with lots of green spaces. Vibrant activity schedule; located near major thoroughfares/attractions.

OHIO LIVING LLANFAIR 1701 LLANFAIR AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45224, (513) 681-4230, LLANFAIR OHIO.ORG Type of Facility: Life Plan Community, Independent and Assisted Living, Skilled Nursing, Rehabilitation Center with all private suites, Memory Care Total Units: 244; 108 In-

dependent Living, 41 Assisted Living, 76 Nursing Beds, 19 Rehabilitation Suites Average Age: 85 Total Staff: 220 Known for relaxed living in the heart of the city, this community is minutes away from shopping, banking, medical services, churches, and entertainment. Owned and operated by Ohio Living, the largest nonproﬁt provider of retirement services in the state of Ohio.

SHAWNEESPRING OF HARRISON HEALTH CARE CENTER AND REHABILITATION 10111 SIMONSON RD., HARRISON, OH 45030, (513) 367-7780, CARE SPRING.COM Type of Facility: Skilled and Intermediate Nursing, Rehabilitation Total Units: 140 Nursing Beds Average Age: Varies based on level of care Total Staff: 220 An in-house team of licensed therapists, nurses, and caregivers offer care and services. The facility encompasses a residential area for patients with longerterm needs and a separate rehab center for individuals requiring short-term services. Features a Montessori school, a recreation therapy room, chapel, and family guest room.

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hile life may be full of belly rubs and W-A-L-K-s for 4-year-old Tank, it hasn’t always been easy. At just a few weeks old, the golden retriever mix was found abandoned on the side of the road with his siblings. As a puppy, his food allergies and sensitive stomach meant constant trips to the animal hospital. But today, with his owner, Brett Underwood, by his side, Tank’s living the good life. And he just won the hearts of Queen City voters, taking home the coveted title in Cincinnati Magazine’s inaugural PetFest cutest pet contest, sponsored by NutriSource. “He’s down for whatever,” says Underwood. “He’s just the happiest, gooﬁest dog ever.” Always ready for a hike with his

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person, Tank is equally content to lounge on the couch or to spend “boy’s night” around the campﬁre. And at the dog park, you’ll sooner ﬁnd him hanging out with the people than running with the pack. Wherever the action is, Tank wants to be in the middle of it. “Everyone who meets Tank falls in love with him,” says Underwood. “Everyone deserves a Tank in their life.”

see all the other entrants at cincinnatimagazine.com/petfest PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN STEEGE

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By Cedric Rose

KEEPING BIKE PLANS ON TRACK Wade Johnston photographed on the Oasis Line downtown on May 30, 2021.

He hears from parents, he says, “about the importance of this trail for their kids, to be able to get on a bike and ride from Avondale to Hyde Park or Avondale to downtown.” Jan’s training as a geologist and a geography teacher inﬂuences her thinking about a project woven from the landscape.“When we mobilize ourselves in the world, cycle, or connect with terra firma rather than drive a car, our experience is very different,” she says. “One of my favorite things is walking on the trail with people who have not been there, maybe walking from Hyde Park through a park to Red Bank Road. And

can transform the urban cycling experience. “Where there’s a sharrow or a bike lane or just a simple pavement marking to delineate between a driving lane and a bicycle-use lane,” he says,“it helps both me as a rider and me as a driver know where I’m supposed to be.” Brazina can’t say exactly when the CROWN will be complete, but he points to the rate of progress on Wasson Way as a good indicator that we won’t have to wait long. Wasson Way currently runs from Evanston to Oakley, and ongoing work will take it to Ault Park later this year, with ﬁnal phases funded through OKI. “So we’re talking maybe three years,” he says,“and you have a complete trail that gets you from the University of Cincinnati all the way to Ault Park.” So three years could be the time frame for nearing completion of the CROWN’s northern and eastern sides. Cranley’s agreement on the rail trail linking Lunken to downtown allows two years for parties to work

SIDE-BY-SIDE NEIGHBORHOODS OFTEN CONTRAST SHARPLY WITH “THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRACKS,” THERE’S SOMETHING ELEGANT ABOUT TURNING RAILROAD TRACKS INTO BIKE TRAILS. there’s just an amazing sense of discovery that those two places are close by. They’re surprised and delighted to make that connection between places and to each other.” As side-by-side neighborhoods often contrast sharply—and quite literally— with “the other side of the tracks,” so it feels elegant to turn railroad tracks back into a means of human connection. “We have the geography, a great river, and the best park system of any U.S. city our size,” says Wym. “The CROWN takes advantage of all that. And we need this more than ever in our civilization today, too, because of all the divisions in our society.” To get a sense of when you might expect to ride the CROWN’s entire 34-mile loop, I speak with John Brazina, director of Cincinnati’s department of transportation and engineering. He used to commute on his Trek road bike from Blue Ash to City Hall and back, so he gets how bike infrastructure 7 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

out the legalities, gain regulatory approval, and raise funds, but also underscores the intent to move quickly. That said, City Hall leadership will change this fall, so getting the work done soon will depend on whether the next mayor prioritizes this project. But if he does, we could see completion of the riverside corridor in just a few years. That leaves the north-south Mill Creek Greenway to complete the CROWN. While the Greenway is still in planning stages, you can already ride from downtown to Northside on a mixture of on-road bike lanes and small sections of protected bike path. I SIT IN ON AN ONLINE MEETING, ORGAnized by Johnston, to gather local cyclists’ input for a new “low stress” Cincinnati bike map modeled on a similar project in Denver. So often, biking really is lower stress than driving—until it isn’t.

Johnston opens the meeting by explaining that the map is meant to get more people out on bikes because “if you equip a human with a bicycle, they are the most efficient mode of travel on the planet by energy consumed. So if we want to convince people not to drive a car for every trip, we think a bike is a great way to do it.” Johnston listens to local riders on the Zoom call and displays their favorite routes in real time with Geographic Information System mapping software. The meeting is a show-and-tell of shortcuts, tree-shaded scenic routes, and potential trouble areas to warn new cyclists about. It shows how bicycles ﬁt into the larger fabric of transportation options, where infrastructure is—but mostly isn’t—used. The Central Parkway bike lane, a key route for heading out of Over-the-Rhine, is much appreciated by local cyclists, but when busy it can be dangerous as cars pull into and out of Findlay Market from behind a row of parked vehicles. There’s also discussion of areas of downtown near highway on- and off-ramps where cyclists can get caught off-guard by motorists still moving at highway speeds. That last point is raised by Joe Humpert, president of Queen City Bike, a nonproﬁt dedicated to making Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky “a great bicycling region.” He organizes group rides that explore the area by bike and stop to socialize, brew up coffee outdoors, and take in the landscape as part of his local #coffeeoutside movement. Bike infrastructure is all about providing options “for people who either can’t afford a car or choose to not operate an automobile,” says Humpert when I reach him later by telephone. While on-road infrastructure can occasionally act as a lightning rod in the sometimes fraught relationship between drivers and cyclists, he says, it’s an important part of a larger functional network. He sees access to good infrastructure two ways. First, can everyone get from their personal point A to point B easily and safely? “We want people of all economic statuses and colors and abilities to be able to get from wherever they are to wherever they need to go,” he says. That’s why Queen City Bike, Tri-State Trails, RedBike, and Cincinnati Off-Road Alliance all maintain ties with the Metro and TANK bus systems, he says, “because multimodal transportation is so

ARTS & MINDS important to folks.” Multimodal, in this case, includes using a bike for a piece of their trip—tossing a bike on the front of a bus to get up a hill, for example. Humpert’s second goal is the idea of comfort, by which he means safety. “You have this perception, sometimes quite real, that you’re putting your life at risk when riding a bike in the city,” he says. “Some folks can be drawn into the sport and can come to a better understanding of cyclists as a group if they’re given the opportunity to participate on things like the Little Miami Trail and Wasson Way, where you almost never encounter an automobile or, if you do, it’s in a very controlled setting. That enables everyone to utilize their bikes for recreation and exercise.” BEYOND PLANNING MEETINGS AND MAP-

ping software, local bike organizations are also trying to spread the gospel of multimodal transportation on a personto-person level. They want to make the network work for everyone in the region, especially those who’ve gotten so used to being left out that when they see a new trailhead or RedBike station they automatically think Not for me. The nonproﬁt bike share Cincy RedBike is working to change that perception. It recently won a $200,000 Living Lab Grant from the Better Bike Share Partnership to build inclusivity into its ﬂeet of 442 bikes and 100 e-bikes parked at 57 stations throughout the urban basin, suburbs, and Northern Kentucky. RedBike’s education and outreach manager, Elese Daniel, plays bike polo, writes poetry, and even owns a bike with a typewriter attached to it, the “Story Bike.” She also manages RedBike’s “Go” program, which offers $5 monthly passes to households at or below 200 percent of the federal poverty guidelines. Her role at RedBike is to encourage more lower income individuals and people of color to feel inclined to use the service. Some of that’s just getting out in communities and talking to people or holding pop-up events where they can try bikes and e-bikes to “remind people that bikes are fun, that they’re potentially a tool, that they can be a fun date night,”

Daniel says. The national grant supports RedBike’s reach into new neighborhoods with “single-serve” bike docks. “We have our different roles to play in advocacy and in supporting more bicycling for all the benefits that it can offer people,” she says. “But the question is who’s going to use this infrastructure and how will people feel about it. So it feels really important to make sure people are given opportunities to try biking on different trails and deciding where bike infrastructure goes themselves.” Bellevue resident Caitlin Sparks calls herself a “vehicular cyclist” and encourages other cyclists to ride in the road and take the entire lane to increase visibility both for themselves and for cyclists as a group. Which, she admits, can be a big ask. Sparks is on the board of the Northside-based MoBo Bicycle Co-op and volunteers in their “open shop,” where participants learn how to repair their own bikes or even build one. MoBo recently partnered with RedBike to create a shared Youth Programs Coordinator position. Sparks also puts in shop time at Newport-based Reser Outfitters, where she often gets to ask people where they’re going to ride their brand new bike. A lot of people—armed with stimulus checks and going stir crazy under lockdown— bought new bikes during the pandemic, and many tell her, I’m going to stick with the trails for now. “And that’s an entryway, the first step,” she says. “Because once they get out there and the wind blows in their face and they’re having an awesome time, they’ll want to keep doing it. And they’ll go a little further each time.” Do you remember when you got your first bike? If that never happened for you, it still can. For me, because I’m a new parent and grew up being ridden around on my dad’s bike, making our city bikefriendly is really about making our city a fun place to be a kid. Or to be a kid again. There’s that other cycle the CROWN is hoping to support: our life cycle. As Wym and Jan Portman say, a biking and hiking trail is for every kid to ride and explore and for old friends to walk. Above all, it’s a shared path where you get to know your neighbors and where communities can connect.

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I L LU S T R AT I O N BY S A R A H M A X W E LL , F O LI O A R T

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NASTY DIVORCE PROCEEDINGS BETWEEN JARED DAVIS , THE FOUNDER OF CHECK ’N GO, AND HIS WIFE BRIDGET OFFER A RARE PEEK INSIDE THE HIGHLY PROFITABLE AND SECRETIVE WORLD OF PAYDAY LENDERS. IT’S ALSO A SALACIOUS SIDESHOW OF RICH PEOPLE BEHAVING BADLY.

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couple’s “expenses have exceeded income from all sources.” THE DIVORCE CASE FILINGS START SLINGing mud when the couple accuses each other of breaking up their 22-year marriage and finding new partners. Jared claims Bridget began an affair during their marriage with Brian Duncan, a contractor she employed through her house flipping business. Bridget, he says, paid Duncan’s company $75,000 in 2018 as well as giving him a personal gift of $70,000 that same year. Jared says she also bought Duncan at least one car and purchased a house for him near hers on Shawnee Run Road for $289,000, then loaned money to Duncan. Jared says Duncan has been late in repaying the note. While Bridget says Duncan has been drug-free for several years, he has a rap sheet with Hamilton County courts from 2000 to 2017 that runs five pages long. It lists a half-dozen counts of drug abuse and drug possession, including heroin and possession of illegal drug paraphernalia; assaulting a police officer; stealing a Taser from a police officer; criminal damaging while being treated at UC Health; more than a dozen speeding and traffic violations; a half-dozen counts of driving with a suspended license; receiving stolen property; twice fleeing and resisting arrest; three counts of theft; two counts of forgery; and one count for passing bad checks. Bridget has fi red back that Jared not only is hiding his money from her but spending it lavishly on vacations, resorts, and high-end restaurants with his new girlfriend, Susanne Warner. Bridget says Jared gifted Warner with $40,000 without Bridget’s knowledge, then declared it on their joint tax return as a “contribution.” Bridget’s court filings include photocopies

of social media posts of Jared and Warner globetrotting from summer 2019 to summer 2020: vacation at Beaver Creek Village in Avon, Colorado; cocktails at High Cotton in Charleston, South Carolina, and dinner at Melvyn’s Restaurant and Lounge in Palm Springs, California; getaways at resorts in Nashville and at a lakefront rental on Norris Lake ($600 per night); in the Bahamas at a Musha Cay private residence ($57,000 per night), at South Beach in Miami, and at a private beach at Fisher Island; in Mexico at Cabo San Lucas; in the U.S. Virgin Islands at Magen’s Bay and on a private yacht ($4,500 per night); in California at Desert Hot Springs, the Ritz-Carlton in Rancho Mirage, and Montage at Laguna Beach; and in the Bahamas at South Cottage ($2,175 per night). For her part, Bridget has gone through some of the top lawyers in town faster than President Trump during an impeachment—six in all, two of whom she’s sued for malpractice. She sent four binders of evidence to the Ohio Supreme Court, asking for the recusal of Hamilton County Judge Amy Searcy and claiming Searcy was biased because of campaign donations from Jared and his companies. Rather than deal with the list of questions sent to her by Chief Justice Maureen O’Connor, Searcy stepped down. Two other judges have since stepped into the fray, and in March Bridget filed for a change of venue outside of Hamilton County, arguing she can’t get a fair trial in her hometown. A trial date is now set for June 28 in Hamilton County. The poor-mouthing in the divorce case has reached heights of comic absurdity. Jared claims he’s “illiquid” because he didn’t get his distribution from CNG in 2019. Bridget has received debt collection notices for the nearly $21,000 owed on her American Express card and a $735 bill from Jewish Hospital. There’s no sign yet that anyone is coming to repossess her Porsche, which according to her filings has a $5,000 monthly payment. Each party has received $25,000 a month in living expenses, an amount later reduced to $15,000 under a temporary legal agreement while the divorce case is being sorted out. Court filings show that Jared’s net worth is almost $206 million and Bridget’s is $22.5 million.

7 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M JAUULY G U 2S 0T 2210 1 4

IN THE EARLY 1990S, ALLEN DAVIS WAS raising eyebrows at Provident Bank (later bought by National City), and not only because of his very unbanker-like look of beard, ponytail, and casual golf wear. He was leading the company into questionable subprime home loans for people with bad credit and a frequent-shopper program for merchants, though the bank’s charter barred him from getting involved in full-blown predatory lending practices. With guidance and funding from his father, Jared, at age 26, launched Check ’n Go in 1994 and became a pioneer in the payday lending industry. Jared and his family saw there were millions of Americans who didn’t have checking or savings accounts (“unbanked”) or an adequate credit rating (“underbanked”) but still needed loans to meet their everyday expenses. What those potential customers did have was a steady paycheck. Conventional banks share a big part of the blame for the nation’s army of unbanked borrowers by imposing checking account fees and onerous penalties for bounced checks. In 2019, the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation estimated there were 7.1 million U.S. households without a checking or savings account. The Davises launched Check ’n Go on the pretext that it would “fill the gap” for people who occasionally needed to borrow money in a hurry—a service for those who couldn’t get a loan any other way. But consumer advocates say the real business model for payday lending isn’t a service at all. The majority of the industry’s revenue comes from repeat business by customers trapped in debt, not from borrowers looking for a quick, one-time fix for their financial troubles. Ohio’s payday lending lobbyists got a strong hold on the state legislature in the late 1990s, and by 2018 Democratic gubernatorial candidate Richard Cordray could rightfully claim in a campaign ad that “Ohio’s [payday lending] laws are now the worst in the nation. Things have gotten so bad that it is legal to charge 594 percent interest on loans.” His statement was based on a 2014 study by the Pew Charitable Trusts. The frustration for consumer advo-

cates was that Ohioans had been trying to reform those laws since 2008, when voters overwhelmingly approved a ballot initiative placing a 28 percent cap on the interest of payday loans. But— surprise!—lenders simply registered as mortgage brokers, which enabled them to charge unlimited fees. The Davis family and five other payday lending companies controlled 90 percent of the market back then, an express gravy train ripping through the poorest communities in Ohio. The predatory feeding frenzy, especially in Ohio’s hard-hit Rust Belt communities, prompted a 2017 column at The Daily Beast titled, “America’s Worst Subprime Lender: Jared Davis vs. Allan Jones?” (Jones is founder and CEO of Tennessee-based Check Into Cash.) In 2016 and 2017, consumer advocates mustered their forces again, and this time they weren’t allowing for loopholes. The Pew Charitable Trusts joined efforts with bipartisan lawmakers and Ohioans for Payday Loan Reform, a statewide coalition of faith, business, local government, and nonprofit organizations. Consumer advocates found a legislative champion in State Rep. Kyle Koehler, a Republican from Springfield. It no doubt helped reform efforts that former Ohio Speaker of the House Cliff Rosenberger resigned in spring 2018 amid an FBI investigation into his cozy relationship with payday lenders. Rosenberger had taken frequent overseas trips—to destinations including France, Italy, Israel, and China—in the company of payday lending lobbyists. In April 2019, Ohio’s new lending law took effect and, since then, has been called a national model for payday lending reform that balances protections for borrowers, profits for lenders, and access to credit for the poor, according to the Pew Charitable Trusts. New prices in Ohio are three to four times lower for payday loans than before the law. Borrowers now have up to three months to repay their loans with no more than 6 percent of their paycheck. Pew estimates that the cost of borrowing $400 for three months dropped from $450 to $109, saving Ohioans at least $75

million a year. And despite claims that the reforms would eliminate access to credit, lenders currently operate in communities across the state and online. “The bipartisan success shows that if you set fair rules and enforce them, lenders play by them and there’s widespread access to credit,” says Gabe Kravitz, a consumer finance officer at the Pew Charitable Trusts. Other states like Virginia, Kansas, and Michigan are following Ohio’s lead, Kravitz says. Some states, such as Nebraska, have even capped annual interest on payday loans. As a result, Pew researchers have seen a reduction in the number of storefront lending operations across the country. Even better, Kravitz says, there’s no evidence that borrowers are turning instead to online payday lending operations. Cincinnati is one of five cities chosen for a grant to replicate the success of Boston Builds Credit, an ambitious effort that city launched in 2017 to provide credit counseling in poor and minority communities by training specialists at existing social service agencies. The program also encourages consumer partnerships with credit unions, banks, and insurance companies to offer small, manageable loans that can help the unbanked and underbanked improve their credit ratings. “Right now, local organizations are all kind of working in silos on the problem in Cincinnati,” says Todd Moore of the nonprofit credit counseling agency Trinity Debt Relief. Moore, who applied for the Boston grant, says he’s looking for an agency like United Way or Strive Cincinnati to lead the effort here. Anthony Smith is thankful that he’s escaped the downward spiral of his payday loans, especially during the pandemic’s economic turmoil. “I’m blessed for every day I can get paid and have a job during these difficult times, just to be able to pay my bills and meet my responsibilities,” he says. “I’ve always kept a job, but until now I’ve had crappy credit. That doesn’t mean I’m a bad guy.” Can others worth millions of dollars say the same?

n’s Out u S

ns Out

fine meats - wine - side dishes spirits - appetizers - beer desserts - gourmet to go soups - produce - seafood spices - charcuterie - artisan breads - prime sandwiches

F E B R UJAURLY Y 2 0 1241 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 7 5

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DON’T FORGET THE SIDES!

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1–4 pm Sunday, July 11

Lunken Airport Waypoint Aviation Hangar For more information, visit cincinnatimagazine.com/summerfoodfest

MADISONVILLE BBQ P. 80

D NE KEVIN O. HART OF HART & CRU P. 80

WEED-THEMED SUBS P. 82

COCKTAILS IN HARRISON P. 84

LONG LIVE THE KING Dear’s dry-aged Ora King salmon is served with fennel, Castelvetrano olives, pistachio, watercress, and radicchio.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JEREMY KRAMER

J U LY 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 7 7

DINING OUT

LOVE LETTER

Butchery meets ﬁne dining in Hyde Park. — A K S H A Y A H U J A

HEN I TOLD A FEW FRIENDS ABOUT THE CONCEPT BEHIND DEAR Restaurant & Butchery, with its in-house butcher shop, all of them said, “So it’s like ‘Deer,’ the animal?” The actual concept behind the name, as General Manager Cole Liegel explained to me, is that the restaurant is a kind of love letter from the team to the guests, to Hyde Park, and to Cincinnati. Liegel and his partner, Austin Heidt, who is also a sommelier and director of the wine program, are both Cincinnati natives who left the city to work at prominent establishments around the country, including Thomas Keller’s iconic French Laundry. Now, both of them are back home

to share some of what they’ve learned. And they are not the only talent Cincinnati has gained. My wife, who is an enormous Top Chef fan, immediately recognized Dear’s Executive Chef Brian Young. “He’s the meat guy!” she exclaimed and recalled a famous episode in the Louisville season where he served pork while standing in a hot tub. It was on this show that Young met fellow contestant and Cincinnati chef Caitlin Steininger of Cooking With Caitlin fame. Young, who is a New England native, began spending more time in town, and both of them—now married—are working at Dear. (Steininger is the head pastry chef.) Occupying the old Teller’s spot on Hyde Park Square, Dear is two establishments in one. Off to one side is a full-service butchery that sells housemade sausages, wine, coffee, sandwiches, and take-and-bake offerings. On the other side is a grand two-story restaurant, beautifully tiled and appointed. Animals, 7 8 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

FYI

Dear Restaurant & Butchery 2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, dear-restaurant.com Hours Restaurant: Dinner Wed– Sun 5:30–11 pm Butchery: Wed–Sun 10 am– 6 pm Prices $9 (Sunchokes with Dukkah)–$96 (Short Rib vol au vent for two) Credit Cards All major The Takeaway Deep farmhouse ﬂavors meet ﬁne-dining elegance.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEREMY KRAMER

THE DEAREST (From left) Wagyu beef tartare; Dear’s dining room; Chef Brian Young; eclair cake with vanilla pastry cream, chocolate ganache, cocoa nib graham cakes, and blackberries.

from pigs to Wagyu beef, arrive bi-weekly and are broken down in house, and turned into charcuterie and other cuts that make it into most of Dear’s dishes. Despite the restaurant’s meat focus, it was a small vegetarian dish—a simple preparation of Jerusalem artichokes—that convinced me that we had a special new restaurant to celebrate. Contrary to what the name suggests, Jerusalem artichokes are native to our region, and will rapidly make themselves at home if introduced into a patch of local soil. You would think that ’chokes would be on every local menu; the only problem is that I, like most people, have never been hugely excited to eat them—until this dish. The tubers are served tender but still faintly crisp, with all of their subtle nutty ﬂavor intact, and complemented by a spicy, beautifully textured dukkah, an Egyptian spice blend. A citrusy labneh yogurt with creamy tahini provides the necessary richness and rounds out the entire dish. Perfection. The preparation is not reinventing the wheel. But to do something properly, with complete respect for an ingredient and its possibilities, and then to edit so only what’s necessary is left on the plate, this is what makes Dear special. Liegel used the word “rusticity” and that aesthetic is everywhere on display. Everything shows careful technique married to a sense of what makes a dish soulful and satisfying. Although the heart of menu is French and Italian, nothing is really off the table. In fact, several of my favorite dishes at Dear, like the Wagyu beef tartare, which also features a lemony labneh with notes of parsley, mint, and olives, hit a Middle Eastern note.

The menu is small and focused, and even within these offerings Liegel says they “normally change two dishes a week,” along with larger seasonal transformations. But this variability gives me confidence that the restaurant is serious about letting the availability of the best ingredients dictate what comes out. And if the dishes turn out to be as good as the sugo, with its tender gnocchilike dumplings and deliciously crumbly house-made pork sausage, well, frankly they can serve me whatever they want. There is a mixture of farmhouse and fine dining in everything that Dear does, from service to the food itself. The lovingly roasted short ribs and carrots come with just a mince of fresh fines herbes from the restaurant’s nearby garden; meanwhile, to top off the vol au vent, the puff pastry is adorned with a beautiful braided pattern that I would not even have the courage to attempt. The salmon is simply but flawlessly cooked and accompanied with a kind of chunky tapenade of Castelvetrano olives and pistachios that works so wonderfully because the elements have been chopped to a precisely uniform size, so that none of the flavors predominate. And the radicchio is perfectly charred to soften the bitterness and harmonize with the rest of the dish. This salmon was so good that I would take a deep breath and pay $42 for it again. Not all of the prices feel quite right, though, and this is my only concern about this excellent restaurant. The sunchokes are a bargain at $9, the Wagyu tartare about right at $16, but why is a shared dish of fried mushrooms an astonishing $58? Or a fairly modest-sized plate of charcuterie with three meats and a few cheeses and pickles priced at $48? Still, Dear is young and they will straighten this stuff out, and the majority of the prices are fair for the care they are putting into what they do. If you’re looking for a new place to try, make it Dear. It’s a keeper. J U LY 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 7 9

TABLESIDE WITH...

HOT PLATE

KEVIN O. HART

THE SOMMELIER IS OPENing a brick-and-mortar location of Hart & Cru in Pendleton this summer. How did you get into the wine business? In 2006, while I was waiting tables at Boca in Oakley. I barely knew anything about wine and I was fortunate to work alongside some of the best in the city at that time. Once I started traveling the world to see vineyards and meet the farmers behind the bottles, there was no turning back.

BEE’S BARBECUE, A SMALL BARBECUE SHACK TUCKED AWAY ON A MADISONVILLE SIDE street, would be easy to miss if it weren’t for the long line outside. Although the place just opened this spring, the laid-back, friendly line of customers is mostly made up of regulars. It’s easy to see why they keep coming back. The smoker at Bee’s churns out a variety of meats, including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey breast, and two kinds of sausage. When I ﬁnally reached the small takeout counter, I ordered the two meat/two side platter of several strips of brisket, the Cincinnati Hot Link, coleslaw, and shells and cheese. The brisket—the best in the city, in my humble opinion— is a fatty, buttery cut of meat that the crunchy, peppery bark perfectly complements. If you enjoy the spicy grease that oozes out of a good chorizo, you’ll love the Cincinnati Hot Link, which tastes like the delicious love child of a chorizo and a hot mett. The side dishes were well executed, too. The shells and cheese had a rich, creamy four-cheese blend that added a gourmet touch to barbecue joint mac and cheese, while the coleslaw was wet without being oversaturated—a rare feat when it comes to mayonnaise-based coleslaws. Bee’s Barbecue, 5910 Chandler St., Word to the wise: Try to get there early. Bee’s opens at 11 a.m. and Madisonville, closes when they run out of meat. Understandably, this doesn’t take (513) 561-2337, beesbarbecue.com long. — B R A N D O N W U S K E 8 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

How has the pandemic changed your business? So much of our work before was consulting for restaurants, corporate businesses, and event locations like Music Hall and Greenacres. When events and dining stopped, we had to ﬁnd a way to connect with more wine drinkers. What’s your favorite wine? I’m always going to be a Burgundy lover. Pinot noirs and chardonnays from the classic French region, made by a caring hand, are nearly impossible to match anywhere in the world!

—AIESHA D.

LITTLE

Hart & Cru, 1206 Broadway St., Pendleton, (419) 348-9592, hartandcru.com

PH OTO G R A PH BY J E R E M Y K R A M E R / ILLU S TR ATI O N BY C H R I S DA N G E R

Bee Our Guest

What can you offer at a retail location that you can’t offer online? Wine is about relationships. It’s about shared experiences. After spending years talking to tables and putting on events in restaurants and clients’ homes throughout the region, it felt like it was the right time to open a bottle shop and tasting room here in Cincinnati—to have a space to call our own.

FREE FOUNDATIONS

CLASS CONTACT US TO BOOK YOUR FREE FOUNDATIONS CLASS!

PURE BARRE OAKLEY

3083 MADISON RD. CINCINNATI, OH 45209 | (513) 321-5800

FINE DIVING

High Notes This sub shop makes marijuana its main theme. DESPITE CHEBA HUT BEING A “TOASTed,” weed-themed sub shop, I’ll seriously try to refrain from the pot puns. Understand that nothing here is fried in CBD oil and the herbs are all garden variety. It has a heavy, late-’60s memorabilia vibe (including Cheech and Chong), but the cannabis references are more tongue-in cheek jokes. What I really didn’t expect was an incredible sandwich, even without the enhanced state of mind. Unlike most of the sub chains where meats and cheeses are delivered in pre-cut ﬂavorless piles, Cheba Hut’s sandwiches taste like somebody just sliced the ingredients and made it only for you. It took long enough to get mine, so I assume that’s the case. Being on Short Vine, with all those hungry UC students, the “5-0” is the popular sandwich. Five kinds of pig: smoked ham, salami, prosciutto, pepperoni, and bacon topped with peppers, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, Italian-ish house dressing, and a shake of Cheba’s herb blend. It’s like a BLT with beneﬁts, but not stacked so thick that you can’t taste the incredible bread. To my buds (taste buds, calm down), it’s the best I’ve had at any sub chain. Did I do OK on the puns? I really wanted to talk about what a great joint this is, my server Mary Jane, and how the place is just spliffy—oh gawd, there I go. Sorry. — J . K E V I N W O L F E Cheba Hut, 2614 Short Vine St., Corryville, (513) 221-3463, chebahut.com/locations/ cincinnatioh

8 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DYLAN BAUER

Get Your Cincy On AC Hotel Rooftop

American Sign Museum

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Scallywag Tag

Nostalgia OTR

The Lytle Park Hotel

Play it safe, but still play. )İĢĹƉǝóƂóśƉŨďĒİĉǝŨďóǝ ĒİçĒİİËŨĒǝËśóËǝďËšǝŨĹǝĹƖóśƿ GET YOUR MASK ON AND GET YOUR CINCY ON.

Find your new favorite things to do at CincinnatiExperience.com.

HIGH SPIRITS

BANK ON IT HOUSED IN AN OLD First National Bank, Harrison’s Heist + Co. adds its own personal money-related twists to its menu as homage. Rumor has it that every single time the bank was operational, it was robbed, so the establishment appropriately gave all of its spirited cocktails (and nonalcoholic drinks, a.k.a. “looted libations”) robbery-themed names. The most popular drink, by far, is “The Getaway,” crafted with raspberry vodka, cherry liqueur, and bitters. If you’re looking for a little spice, the jalapeño-infusedtequila drink “The Silent Alarm” also comes highly recommended, but don’t forget about the “Dillinger,” a unique choice for scotch lovers. Opting for something alcohol-free? There’s “My Alibi,” made with citrus and cucumber, or you can give “Sundance Kid” a try (it’s zero-proof whiskey mixed with pineapple). Whatever you choose, they’re all criminally delicious. —MARIELLE MURPHY Heist + Co., 108 Harrison Ave., Harrison, (513) 715-1466, heistandcompany.com

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PHOTOGRAPH BY LANCE ADKINS

WHERE TO EAT NOW

AMERICAN BARBECUE CAJUN/CARIBBEAN CHINESE ECLECTIC FRENCH INDIAN ITALIAN JAPANESE MEDITERRANEAN MEXICAN SEAFOOD STEAKS THAI

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DINING GUIDE CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S

dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all

chicken chili, and interesting salads. While some of the fare is familiar pub grub, nothing is substandard. Even potato chips are made in-house and seasoned with Cajun spices.

AMERICAN

7445 Forbes Rd., Sayler Park, (513) 941-7442, cabanaontheriver.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $

THE BIRCH On any given evening, guests nibble at spicy hummus served with French breakfast radishes and pita bread while sipping slightly spumante glasses of Spanish Txakolina. And while the dinner menu reads strictly casual at first glance— soups, salads, and sandwiches—the preparation and quality is anything but. An endive salad with candied walnuts, Swiss cheese, crispy bacon lardons, and an apple vinaigrette surpassed many versions of the French bistro classic. And both the Brussels sprouts and Sicilian cauliflower sides refused to play merely supporting roles. Both were sensational studies in the balance of sweet, spicy, and acidic flavors. 702 Indian Hill Rd., Terrace Park, (513) 8315678, thebirchtp.com. Lunch and dinner Tues– Sun. MCC. DS. $

BRONTË BISTRO You might think this is a lunch-only spot where you can nosh on a chicken salad sandwich after browsing next door at Joseph-Beth Booksellers. But this Norwood eatery feels welcoming after work, too. The dinner menu features entrées beyond the rotating soup and quiche roster that’s popular at noon. Fried chicken? Check. Quesadillas and other starters? Yep. An assortment of burgers? Present, including turkey and veggie versions. Casual food rules the day but the surprise is Brontë Bistro’s lineup of adult beverages, which elevates the place above a basic bookstore coffeeshop.

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit. To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

COPPIN’S

GET THE DOUGH

Giminetti Baking Company in Walnut Hills has hired New York pastry chef Cory Colton to launch its new concept, The Bread Bar. The bakery closed its café and bread shop over the winter to revamp its menu offerings, which now include breakfast, lunch, and pastry items.

giminetti.com

2692 Madison Rd., Norwood, (513) 396-8970, josephbeth. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $

CABANA ON THE RIVER Like a big outdoor picnic with a view of the serene hills of Kentucky and the Ohio River rolling by, this is one of those places west-siders would rather the rest of Cincinnati didn’t know about. Its annual debut in late spring marks the official beginning of summer for many. People ﬂock to the Cabana for good food prepared well: grilled mahi-mahi sandwiches, pork barbecue, steak on a stick, Angus beef burgers, Italian and steak hoagies, white

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With wine on tap and an extensive local beer list, Coppin’s is an ideal place to meet for drinks. In addition to plenty of Kentucky bourbon, much of the produce, meat, and cheese comes from local growers and producers. House-cured meat and cheese from Kenny’s Farmhouse and cheese from Urban Stead populate the “Artisan Cheese and Charcuterie Board,” which dresses up the main attractions with honey, dijon mustard, house pickles, and Sixteen Bricks grilled sourdough. The mussels—made with seasonally rotating sauces and chorizo from Napoleon Ridge Farms in Gallatin County—were served with a peppery tomato sauce, perfect for sopping up with bread. The seven-ounce Sakura Farms Wagyu rib eye with wild mushrooms, roasted parsnip, and beef jus is a must have. Or try the striped bass with grape farro roasted broccolini and mussel cream sauce. 638 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 9056600, hotelcovington.com/dining/coppins. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THE EAGLE OTR The revamped post office at 13th and Vine feels cozy but not claustrophobic, and it has distinguished itself with its stellar fried chicken. Even the white meat was pull-apart steamy, with just enough peppery batter to pack a piquant punch. Diners can order by the quarter, half, or whole bird—but whatever you do, don’t skimp on the sides. Bacon adds savory mystery to crisp corn, green beans, and edamame (not limas) in the succotash, and the crock of mac and cheese has the perfect proportion of sauce, noodle, and crumb topping. 1342 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 802-5007. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

EMBERS The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to

KEY: No checks unless specified. AE American Express, DC Diners Club DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V $ = Under $15 $$$ = Up to $49 $$ = Up to $30 $$$$ = $50 and up Top 10

= Named a Best Restaurant March 2019.

suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asian-inspired (crabcakes); fashionable ingredients are name-checked (micro-greens and truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; Kobe beef on sushi rolls sidles up to steaks of corn-fed prime; non-steak entrées (Chilean sea bass or seared scallops with mushroom risotto and broccolini) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party. 8170 Montgomery Rd., Madeira, (513) 9848090, embersrestaurant.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$$$

IVORY HOUSE The menu here generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish ﬂavors, but simply pays attention to enough little things to make the results unusually good. The Wagyu Frisco is basically a cheeseburger, but the exceptional tomme from Urban Stead gives it that extra something. The cocktails are things you’ve probably seen before, but everything—from the bourbon rhubarb sour to the Queen City’s Bees Knees—had an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like a rhubarb honey syrup or the raspberry shrub. Even when an ingredient seems out of left ﬁeld, like the burnt grapefruit hot sauce on the pork belly and tenderloin, it never tastes as unusual as it sounds. Tthe hot sauce is just a hint of sweet citrusy spice that melts into the grits—a softly intriguing element rather than a slap in the face. Ivory House also has an excellent brunch. 2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 3890175, ivoryhousecincy.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

THE SCHOOLHOUSE RESTAURANT An old flag stands in one corner and pictures of Abe Lincoln and the first George W. hang on the wall of this Civil War–era schoolhouse. The daily menu of familiar Midwestern comfort fare is written in letter-perfect cursive on the original chalkboard. Once you order from a woman who bears an uncanny resemblance to your high school lunch lady, the elevated lazy Susan in the center of the table begins to fill up with individual bowls and baskets of corn bread, slaw, salad, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, and vegetables. The deal here is quantity. More mashed potatoes with your fried ICON BY JEN K AWANARI

Paintings, Politics and the Monuments Men July 9–October 3, 2021 | Ticketed. Free for members. This exhibition was organized with the generous support of the Harold C. Schott Foundation

Additional support:

Presented by:

Generals Dwight D. Eisenhower, Omar N. Bradley, and George S. Patton inspect art found in the Merkers salt mine, April 12, 1945, image courtesy of National Archives at College Park, MD

Generously supported by: August A. Rendigs, Jr. Foundation, Charles Scott Riley III Foundation, Lee Carter Family Fund, Marnick Foundation, Jack and Joyce Steinman, The Wieler Family Foundation

WHERE TO EAT NOW

chicken? More corn bread with your baked ham? You don’t even have to raise your hand. 8031 Glendale-Milford Rd., Camp Dennison, (513) 8315753, theschoolhousecincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs & Fri, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC, DS. $

SUGAR N’ SPICE This Paddock Hills diner, with a second location in Overthe-Rhine, has been dishing up wispy-thin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals. Breakfast and lunch offerings mix oldhat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line. 4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills; 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 242-3521, eatsugarnspice.com, Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $

SYMPHONY HOTEL & RESTAURANT Tucked into a West 14th Street Italianate directly around the corner from Music Hall, this place feels like a private dinner club. There’s a preferred by-reservation policy. Check the web site for the weekend’s five-course menu, a slate of “new American” dishes that changes monthly. You can see the reliance on local produce in the spring vegetable barley soup. Salads are interesting without being busy, and the sorbets are served as the third course palate cleanser. Main courses of almond-crusted mahi-mahi, flat-iron steak, and a vegetable lasagna hit all the right notes, and you can end with a sweet flourish if you choose the chocolate croissant bread pudding. 210 W. 14th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-3353, symphonyhotel.com. Dinner Thurs–Sun, brunch Sun. $$

TELA BAR + KITCHEN Classically conceived but casually executed comfort food, including mini-Monte Cristo sandwiches with tangy housemade pimento cheese stuffed into sourdough bread and fried crisp, mac and cheese topped with a Mr. Pibb–braised pulled short rib, and steak and potatoes. Servers are slightly scattered, yet enthusiastic and friendly, with a good grasp of the beverage program. 1212 Springﬁeld Pke., Wyoming, (513) 821-8352, telabarandkitchen.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

TRIO Trio is nothing if not a crowd pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or ﬁlet mignon (with side salad, garlic mashed potatoes, sauteed swiss chard, and mushroom jus), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple margherita pizza with roma tomatoes, basil, Parmesan, and provolone delivered a ﬁne balance of crunchy crust, sharp cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet. 7565 Kenwood Rd., Kenwood, (513) 984-1905, triobistro. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC. $$$

THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ Wildflower Café’s formula is simple but satisfying: lots of mostly local meat and produce, a menu that continuously changes with available ingredients, a nice selection of wine and beer, and well-made, homey food. The small, focused menu has a classic American quality (salads, steaks, burgers) with enough surprises to keep things interesting. Many of the dishes are designed with open spaces to be filled with whatever is available in the kitchen that day, an advantage of an unfussy style. You don’t go to Wildflower expecting a certain kind of perfection; you accept that your favorite dish from last time might be made differently tonight, or no longer available. Like the farmhouse that Wildflower occupies, the imperfections are part of the charm.

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207 E. Main St., Mason, (513) 492-7514, wildﬂower gourmetcafe.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

YORK STREET CAFÉ Five blocks from the Newport riverfront, Terry and Betsy Cunningham have created the sort of comfortable, welcoming environment that encourages steady customers. A dependable menu and quirky atmosphere appeal to a broad range of diners, from non-adventurous visiting relatives to non-attentive children. Desserts have always been one of the stars: ﬂourless chocolate hazelnut torte, bittersweet, rich and moist; butter rum pudding that would be equally at home on a picnic table or a ﬁnely dressed Michelin-starred table. 738 York St., Newport, (859) 261-9675, yorkstonline. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BARBECUE SINNERS & SAINTS TAVERN You won’t leave this Texas smokehouse/sports bar hungry. From the Not Yo Mama’s Fried Bologna sandwich to the slow-smoked brisket—served with Texas BBQ sauce, white bread, and pickles, or in a hoagie—you can’t go wrong with these rich barbecue flavors. Several dishes, like the housemade sausage links, draw on German influences found in both Texas and Cincinnati cuisine, while the sides take flavors back to the country (try the creamy coleslaw, crispy onion straws, and chili-spiced cornbread). The resaurant’s character shines through its decor, which includes hanging hockey memorabilia, pictures of public figures and tables made from real NBA courts. 2062 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 281-4355, sinsaint smoke.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

WALT’S HITCHING POST A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-ﬁred in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quick-seared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft ﬂesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s housemade tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together. 3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 360-2222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN BREWRIVER CREOLE More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’ boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on ﬂuffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying ﬂavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line. 4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch & lunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $

SWAMPWATER GRILL At ﬁrst blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can ﬁnd a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oys-

ters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, and catfish Po’Boys, as well as a selection of hardwoodsmoked meats. 3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067, swamp watergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $$

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip. 6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, letseat. at/KnottyPine. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

CHINESE AMERASIA A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Pot stickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand-shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, tofu, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodle, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts. 521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121. Lunch Sun–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC. $

ORIENTAL WOK This is the restaurant of your childhood memories: the showy Las Vegas-meets-China decor, the ebulliently comedic host, the chop sueys, chow meins, and crab rangoons that have never met a crab. But behind the giant elephant tusk entryway and past the goldfish ponds and fountains is the genuine hospitality and warmth of the Wong family, service worthy of the finest dining establishments, and some very good food that’s easy on the palate. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, sea bass, and halibut steamed, grilled, or flash fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger–green onion sauce that accompanies them. Even the chicken lo mein is good. It may not be provocative, but not everyone wants to eat blazing frogs in a hot pot. 317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok. com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$

SUZIE WONG’S ON MADISON A few items on the menu resemble those that were once served at Pacific Moon, such as laub gai and Vietnamese rolls, both variations of lettuce wraps. For the laub gai, browned peppery chicken soong (in Cantonese and Mandarin, referring to meat that is minced) is folded into leaf lettuce with stems of fresh cilantro and mint, red Serrano peppers, a squeeze of lime juice, and a drizzle of fish sauce. In the Vietnamese roll version, small cigar-sized rolls stuffed with chicken and shrimp are crisp fried and lettuce wrapped in the same manner. The Pan-Asian menu also includes Korean kalbi (tenderific beef ribs marinated

WHERE TO EAT NOW

and glazed in a sweet, dark, sesame soy sauce) and dolsat bibimbap, the hot stone bowl that’s a favorite around town. 1544 Madison Rd., East Walnut Hills, (513) 7513333, suziewongs.com. Lunch Tues–Sat, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

YAT KA MEIN This noodle house caters to our inner Chinese peasant. Yat Ka Mein offers humble, everyday Cantonese dishes of egg noodles, tasty dumplings packed with shrimp or pork, fresh veggies, and chicken broth. Almost begrudgingly the menu includes popular American-style Chinese dishes, like the ubiquitous sweet and sour chicken, Moo Goo Gai Pan, roast duck, and so forth. But what makes the place unique are less familiar dishes like Dan Dan noodles, a spicy, sweat-inducing blend of garlic, chili peppers, and ground chicken marinated in chili sauce. 2974 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 321-2028, yatkamein.biz. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

ECLECTIC Top 10

BAR NONE

Comfort Station was recently named one of Esquire’s “best bars in America” in its summer 2021 issue. The list features 27 drinking establishments from across the country and calls the Walnut Hills bar “what feels like the city’s spiritual center.”

esquire.com/ food-drink/bars/ a36439312/best-barsamerica-2021

ABIGAIL STREET

Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. New offerings like the duck leg confit, with spicy-sour harissa flavors, firm-tender butternut squash, and perfectly made couscous, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior. The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential. 1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BRANCH Located in a huge Art Deco building, formerly a bank, Branch has taken this potentially cavernous and impersonal space and made it intimate. Diners might recognize the vibe from this restaurant group’s first venture, Northside’s The Littlefield. The chef, Shoshannah Anderson, cooks in a mode that we would call “international home-style,” taking inspiration from the comfort food of many cultures. It maintains a balance between cooking to a higher price point and creating an atmosphere of refinement without losing the informal neighborhood feel. The shrimp and grits—served soupy in a big bowl with an addictively sweet-andsour green tomato marmalade swirled into the creamy grits—are taken surprising heights. Another notable item is a dish that wouldn’t normally get a mention in a review: the french fries. They demonstrate that food that is usually mindlessly inhaled can be worth savoring if it is made with enough love. 1535 Madison Rd., East Walnut Hills, (513) 221-2702, eatatbranch.com. Dinner Mon–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

CROWN REPUBLIC GASTROPUB What makes Crown Republic special isn’t its handful of outstanding dishes. It’s the place’s sheer consistency. No single dish is absolutely mindblowing or completely original, but when almost everything that comes out is genuinely tasty, the service is always friendly and attentive, and (stop

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the presses!) the bill is quite a bit less than you expected, you sit up and pay attention. The crab and avocado toast, served on grilled bread with lime juice and slivers of pickled Fresno chiles, is a prime example of what makes Crown Republic tick. The cocktails are equally unfussy and good, like the Tipsy Beet, made with vodka, housemade beet shrub, cucumber, mint, and citrus peel. Crown Republic has a mysterious quality that I can only describe as “good energy.”

1401 Republic St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 6217000, salazarcincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

720 Sycamore St., downtown, (513) 246-4272, crgcincy.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

20 BRIX

THE GOVERNOR This Milford restaurant playfully elevates diner classics. Breakfast is available all day so if you’re looking to greet the morning with decadence, try the ricotta toast, a thick slab of brioche toast smothered in ricotta and fresh, seasonal jams. Sandwiches also get an inventive twist here. The “Governor Tso’s chicken”—a crispy fried chicken breast glazed with a General Tso’s–inspired sauce, topped with coleslaw and served on a toasted sesame seed bun—is a gigantic, happy mess of a sandwich, but the sweet glaze faintly evokes the namesake “General” while letting the sublimely fried chicken lead the charge. Order a side of crinkle cut fries and ask for the housemade Maple Thousand Island dipping sauce. (You’ll thank us later.) 231 Main St., Milford, (513) 239-8298, governordiner.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. Brunch and lunch Sun. MCC. $

METROPOLE Metropole has been remarkably stable since it opened in 2012. Even when chefs have left, the organization has promoted from within, kept popular dishes on the menu, and maintained a certain vibe, a balance between sophistication and rusticity. Its vegetarian fare contains many of its most inventive and delightful creations. The chilled cantaloupe soup has a creamy note from coconut milk and a hint of spice floating in at the end of every bite to balance the subtle, melon-y sweetness. The fancy “candy bar,” with its light and crispy peanut wafers and ring of flourless chocolate cake and caramel, encapsulates Metropole at its best: fun and whimsical, but rooted in careful execution of deep and satisfying flavors. 609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com. Breakfast and dinner seven days, lunch Mon–Fri, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SACRED BEAST Sacred Beast advertises itself as a kind of upscale diner, but the real gems are the oddball dishes that don’t quite ﬁt the diner mold. The menu can be disorienting in its eclecticism: foie gras torchon is next to lobster poutine, and a king salmon is next to a diner breakfast and deviled eggs. Winners are scattered throughout the menu in every category. On the cocktail list, the Covington Iced Tea, a lemon and coffee concoction made with cold brew, San Pellegrino, and vodka is oddly satisfying. The service is good, and there is some ﬂair about the place—including vintage touches, from the facsimile reel-to-reel audio system to the mostly classic cocktails—even within its rather chilly industrial design. In short, go for the late night grub; stay for the elegant, shareable twists on classic snacks. 1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 213-2864, sacredbeastdiner.com. Lunch, dinner, and late night seven days. MCC. $$

SALAZAR A freewheeling tour through Korean, Moroccan, Italian, and French ﬂavors—and that’s just on one iteration of the ever-evolving menu. Salazar turns out fresh, well-balanced dishes dotted with seasonal surprises: the cauliﬂower steak special (a Moroccan spiced, seared wedge of the

cruciferous vegetable complemented by a strong hit of lemon), the chicken liver mousse (so good it deserves its own trophy), and the succulent chicken Milanese (with its musky, sweet-and-sour notes of ground cherry). With its bustling bar and cheek-by-jowl tables, Salazar hums with energy at every meal.

Paul Barraco mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. And his chicken and waffles could inspire you to regularly take a solo seat at the bar. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in five-ounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several. 101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix. com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$

FRENCH CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT Based on American stereotypes of French food— that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renee to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Asparagus is beautifully roasted and perfectly salted, and the quiche Lorraine (yes, the old standby) has a nice, ﬁrm texture, and a ﬁne balance of bacon, mushrooms, and oignons (to quote the menu, which is a charming hodgepodge of French and English). This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution. 233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

LE BAR A BOEUF Jean-Robert de Cavel’s upscale alterna-burgershack features bifteck haché, ground beef patties that are a mainstay of French family dinners, according to de Cavel. His “Les Ground Meat” is available in beef, Wagyu beef, bison, lamb, and fish (a blend of albacore tuna and salmon). Portions are eight ounces, taller than a typical burger, and seared on the kitchen’s iron griddle. It’s easy to turn many of the generously portioned appetizers into dinner. Pair the open-faced beef tongue “French Dip” sandwich with a spinach salad and you’ll have one of the best choices in the house. Or go for mac-and-cheese. The lobster mac always sounds lush, but do consider the humble beef cheek version, enlivened by a touch of truffle oil, instead. 2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, barboeuf.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

INDIAN BOMBAY BRAZIER Indian food in America is hard to judge, because whether coming from the kitchen of a takeout joint or from a nicer establishment, the food will rarely ICON BY JEN K AWANARI

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brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC. $

WHERE TO EAT NOW

I TA L I A N taste all that different. It will generally be some twist on Punjabi cuisine. Bombay Brazier does it just right. Chef Rip Sidhu could serve his dal tadka in India, along with several other extraordinary dishes, and still do a roaring business—and this is not something that can be said of most Indian establishments in America. Try the pappadi chaat, a common Indian street food rarely found on American menus, and you will see what sets this place apart. They do everything the way it is supposed to be done, from the dusting of kala namak (a pungent black rock salt) on the fried crisps to the mixture of tamarind and mint chutneys on the chopped onion, tomatoes, and chickpeas—having this dish properly made is balm to the soul of a homesick immigrant, and fresh treasure for any American lover of this cuisine. 7791 Cooper Rd., #5, Montgomery, (513) 794-0000, bombaybraziercincy.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

BETTA’S ITALIAN OVEN This Italian place hits the spot on all levels. It’s casual—we felt at home in jeans and a T-shirt—but not so casual to rule it out as a date-night spot. It’s friendly, with a staff that stays on top of reﬁlling that Morretti La Rossa beer. And best of all, the food is amazing (especially for the price). We ranked their pizza the best in the city. Dubious? Their pizza Margherita will make a believer out of you. Their lasagna, spaghetti, and eggplant Parmesan will have you crying Mama Mia and other Italian-sounding phrases. Their dessert options (Cannoli! Tiramisu! Amaretto cream cake!) are all homemade, and delicious to the very last bite. 3764 Montgomery Rd., Norwood, (513) 631-6836. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $$

PEPP & DOLORES

BRIJ MOHAN Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no super-sizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely ﬂavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-ﬂavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. 11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549,

As with all of Thunderdome’s restaurants, you get a sense that they want to deliver a meal that satisfies many different kinds of people. The prices are reasonable, with pasta entrées about $15. The dishes are familiar in their flavors, but everything feels balanced and modulated and gradually perfected. There is lovely variety: the limone pasta is zippy with lemon and chili flakes, and just the right mixture of tart and creamy; the deep meaty flavors on the mushroom toast are balanced with a nice acidity; and the heat in dishes like the eggplant involtini is just enough to wake up the sauce without overwhelming the flavor. The menu has a wealth of excellent vegetarian and pasta-alternative options. 1501 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 419-1820,

peppanddolores.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner seven days. MCC. $$ Top 10

SOTTO

There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. Penne with rapini and sausage comes in a buttery, lightly starchy broth with a kick of spice that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of the chicken liver mousse to the tart cherry sauce on the panna cotta, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness. 118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 977-6886, sottocincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$

VIA VITE Cristian Pietoso serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny ﬂavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the ﬂavorful Faroe Island salmon with butternut squash puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette. 520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

Get your grill on with Cedar Bay! Fire up your Summer with Salmon on the BBQ! Cedar Bay’s Cedar Planked Atlantic Salmon ﬁllets are pre-seasoned on a pre-soaked cedar plank, ready to simply thaw, open and place on the grill for a no fuss entrée that cooks up perfectly every time! Available in a range of ﬂavors, our planked salmon is ideal for summertime gatherings with family and friends.

This summer… PLANK IT!

24 oz Applewood Orange Ginger

24 oz Sugar & Spice

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8 oz Applewood Orange Ginger

8 oz Hickory Maple

8 oz Sugar & Spice

2021-06-01 6:49 PM

J A PA N E S E KIKI Kiki started as a pop-up at Northside Yacht Club, then leapt into brick-and-mortar life in College Hill. Your best bet here is to share plates, or simply order too much, starting with the shishito buono, a piled-high plate of roasted shishito peppers tossed in shaved parmesan and bagna cauda, a warm, rich blend of garlic and anchovies. Add the karaage fried chicken, with the Jordy mayo and the pepe meshi, conﬁt chicken on spaghetti and rice that somehow works. And, yes, the ramen, too. The shio features pork belly and tea-marinated soft-boiled egg, but the kimchi subs in tofu and its namesake cabbage for the meat. 5932 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 541-0381, kikicincinnati.com. Lunch (carryout only) and dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC. $

KYOTO

small plates but plenty of food. You might encounter an entire steamed baby octopus or yellowtail with daikon radish, pickled mackerel or deep-fried oysters. You can depend on cucumber or seaweed salad, tempura shrimp, a grilled meat or ﬁsh, and of course, sushi—and sometimes even the colorful Bento box sampler. There’s a Nabemono—tableside pot cooking—section on the menu featuring shabu shabu: slices of prime beef swished through bubbling seaweed broth just until the pink frosts with white. Served with simmered vegetables, ponzu sauce, daikon, and scallions, the concentrated, slightly sour ﬂavor of the beef is vivid.

and fresh and dried herbs into phyllo dough, and frying it lightly to brittle ﬂakiness. The pastry arrives atop a vivid cherry tomato marmalade, which adds a welcome dimension of barely sweet fruitiness. While there is a smooth, simple hummus on the menu, you should go for the classic sucuklu hummus, which is spiked with sujuk, a common beef sausage popular all over the Middle East.

7149 Manderlay Dr., Florence, (859) 746-1199. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

Sure, you can go here for the great baked kibbeh, a blend of delicately spiced ground lamb, pine nuts, and onions, stuffed inside a shell of ground lamb, lamb fat, and bulgur wheat. Or you could visit for the vegetarian moussaka with eggplant, onions, tomatoes, and cilantro. But you’d be missing out on Floyd’s famous tender-crisp spit-roasted chicken and lima beans with chopped parsley, garlic, and olive oil. Not all of the specialties are the real Lebanese deal, but we’ll keep ordering them anyway.

MEDITERRANEAN ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate. Co-owner Andy Hajjar mans his station at the end of the bar, smoking a hookah pipe that ﬁlls the air with the sweet smell of ﬂavored tobacco, while the friendly but hurried staff hustles through.

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—slivers of giant clam on ice in a super-sized martini glass, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, smoky grilled New Zealand mussels drizzled with spicy mayo, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake.

906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotosushibar.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAFÉ MEDITERRANEAN

MATSUYA At this relaxed little sushi boutique, try ordering kaiseki, a traditional six-course meal that features a succession of

Chef-driven Middle Eastern cuisine leans heavily on Turkish tradition here. The baba ghanoush uses seared eggplant, which adds a pleasant smokiness to the ﬁnal product. Börek is described as a “Turkish Egg Roll,” wrapping feta

3520 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 871-8714. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

FLOYD’S

127 Calhoun St., Clifton Heights, (513) 221-2434, ﬂoydsofcincy.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sat. MC, V. $

Top 10

PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the ﬂavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps

LIGHT A FIRE UNDER YOUR GRILLING

PHOTOGRAPH BY TK FREELANCER

serving suggestion

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WHERE TO EAT NOW taking these classics a little further. 7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues– Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

SULTAN’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE The meze, a parade of small plates and appetizers—the refreshing yogurt dish with cucumber, mint, and garlic known as cacik, and its thicker cousin haydari, with chopped walnuts, dill, and garlic—is rounded out with ﬂaky cheese or spinach boureks, falafels, soups, salads, and more, while baked casseroles or stuffed cabbage and eggplant dishes (dubbed “Ottoman specials”) augment the heavy focus on kebabs: chunks of lamb and beef on a vertical spit for the popular Doner kebab (a.k.a. Turkish gyro), peppery ground lamb for the Adana kebab, or cubed and marinated for the Shish kebab. 7305 Tyler’s Corner Dr., West Chester, (513) 847-1535, sultanscincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

MEXICAN EL VALLE VERDE Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Sea-

food dishes are the star here—ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire ﬁsh— enough to feed three. 6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400. Lunch and dinner seven days. $

HABAÑERO

and chorizo or Tilapia Asada, the tacos are still a big item. 2507 Chelsea Dr., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 341-0707. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

NADA The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll ﬁnd a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. Tacos inspired by global cuisine include the Señor Mu Shu (Modelo and ginger braised pork) and fried avocado (chipotle bean purée). The ancho-glazed pork shank with chili-roasted carrots comes with a papaya guajillo salad (order it for the table); dreamy macand-cheese looks harmless, but there’s just enough of a roasted poblano and jalapeño punch to have you reaching for another icy margarita.

It’s easy to find a cheap burrito place around a college campus, but you’d be hard-pressed to find one as consistently good as Habañero, with its flavors of Latin America and the Caribbean wrapped up in enormous packages. Fried tilapia, apricot-glazed chicken breast, hand-rubbed spiced flank steak, shredded pork tenderloin, or cinnamon-roasted squash are just some of the ingredients for Habañero’s signature burritos. All salsas are house-made, from the smoky tomato chipotle to the sweet-sounding mango jalapeño, which is hot enough to spark spontaneous combustion.

600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

358 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 961-6800, habanerolatin.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $

MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S

MONTOYA’S Mexican places seem to change hands in this town so often that you can’t get the same meal twice. Montoya’s is the exception. They’ve been hidden in a tiny strip mall off the main drag in Ft. Mitchell for years. It’s unpretentious and seemingly not interested in success, which means success has never gone to their head here. At a place where you can get Huracan Fajitas with steak, chicken,

SEAFOOD The daily rotation here reads like a ﬁsherman’s wish list: fresh lobsters from the coast of Maine, ahi tuna from Hawaii, North Carolina catﬁsh, Massachusetts cod. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Flaky Parmesan-crusted tilapia, with a squeeze of lemon, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square, and make it a sophisticated destination. 21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339,

OUT WITH THE OLD

MadTree Brewing Co. is taking over the old Kaze space in Over-the-Rhine to launch its new restaurant, Alcove. The eatery, which is scheduled to open this fall, will feature MadTree beers and farm-to-table dishes from Bouquet chef Stephen Williams.

madtreebrewing. com/news/madtree -alcove

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9 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

ICON BY JEN K AWANARI

mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

PELICAN’S REEF Over the years Chef John Broshar has developed his niche, inspired by the seasonal availability of fish obtained daily from one or more of the purveyors he uses. Mahi-mahi from the Gulf, swordfish from Hawaii, Lake Erie walleye, wild Alaskan salmon, wreckfish from South Carolina, rainbow trout, and wild striped bass are just some of the varieties that rotate through the extensive features listed on a 10-foot by 2-foot chalkboard. The regular offerings are no slouch: Grilled grouper sandwich with chipotle tartar sauce, chubby fish tacos, perfectly fried piping hot oysters tucked into a buttered and toasted po’ boy bun with housemade slaw, and tart-sweet key lime pie. And of course, the damn good New England style chowder. 7261 Beechmont Ave., Anderson Twp., (513) 232-2526, the pelicansreef.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

STEAKS CARLO & JOHNNY The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that meltin-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the hard to find bone-in filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives. 9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

PHOTOGRAPH BY TK FREELANCER

JAG’S STEAK AND SEAFOOD Jag’s food is deeply ﬂavored, if occasionally a bit busy. All seven cuts of steak are served with veal demi-glace and fried onion straws. According to my steak-centric dining partner, his cowboy rib eye is “too tender and uniform” (as if that’s a crime). “I like to wrestle with the bone,” he adds, though that’s a scenario that, thankfully, doesn’t get played out in this subdued dining room.

the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill.

5980 West Chester Rd., West Chester, (513) 860-5353, jags.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$

5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $

THE PRECINCT

WILD GINGER

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral ﬂavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint.

Wild Ginger Asian Bistro’s ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evidenced by their signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercornand-chili brown sauce.

311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wild gingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

THAI THAI NAMTIP Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at ﬁrst bite, then

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), July 2021, Volume 54, Number 10. Published monthly ($14.95 for 12 issues annually) at P.O. Box 14487, Cincinnati, OH 45250. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2021 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr, Ste 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

J U LY 2 0 2 1 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 9 5

CINCY OBSCURA

Secret Garden STROLLING INTO FLEISCHMANN GARDENS, YOUR EYES MEET A STORYBOOK SCENE. BEHIND

the iron gates and a boxwood maze is a line of magnificent trees and Narnia-esque streetlamps. But the foliage-filled landscape doesn’t just look like a secret garden; despite its prime location at the corner of Washington and Forest avenues, few are aware of the Avondale staple. “The farther you get away from that neighborhood...the less likely you are to know that [Fleischmann Gardens] even exists,” says Michael George, senior naturalist with Cincinnati Park Board. The gardens were part of the estate of Charles Fleischmann, who co-created the first commercially produced yeast in America. After he died in 1897, his children bequeathed the 3.2-acre lot to the Cincinnati Park Board to memorialize their father. Since then, the board razed the Fleischmann house, expanded the garden to 4.4 acres, and added a playground. But the garden’s “centerpiece”—a 93-foot-tall Ginkgo tree—has stayed put through it all. Crowned the largest Ginkgo in Ohio, the tree boasts a 247-inch circumference and towering branches. Trees like that make an impression on you, George says. “You’re not soon to forget them.” — B E B E H O D G E S 9 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M J U LY 2 0 2 1

PH OTO G R A PH BY B RIT TA N Y D E X TE R

Cincinnati Magazine - July 2021 Edition

Articles inside

DINING GUIDE

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REAL ESTATE

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