Cincinnati Magazine - July 2024 Edition

Italian Eats1

by PHILIP EIL

STEVEN ROSEN

Teen Skincare Secrets

Is your teen skincare obsessed? Local board-certified dermatologist Dr. Mona S. Foad shares her top tips for teens, including what products they should (and shouldn’t) be using, the science behind acne breakouts, and when it may be time to seek help from a professional.

SKINCARE SIMPLIFIED

Back To Basics

If your teen wants to begin a skincare routine, it’s best to start simple with a cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen, antioxidant, and potentially a retinol if needed. These products are the foundation for a great skincare routine. Specialty products can be added in, as needed or desired, from there.

Use Caution with Actives

Ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or retinol can be helpful in moderation (especially for acneprone skin). However, using too many active ingredients in combination can damage the skin barrier and cause dryness and irritation. Keep an eye on the products your teen is buying, and educate them on the importance of using only one or two products with active ingredients at a time. If your teen experiences burns, irritation, rashes, or dryness, consult a professional, such as a dermatologist. It could be that they are having an allergic reaction to the products or they are using too many products that are drying out their skin and disturbing the natural microbiome of a healthy skin barrier.

Limit Variety

While popular skincare products can look cute and be fun to try out, they could also cause more harm than good. When trying out multiple new products at once, it can be hard to pinpoint if one of them is causing breakouts or irritation. It is especially important to use caution if your skin is sensitive

or acne-prone. If you enjoy adding variety to your skincare routine, try to stick to switching out products such as gentle cleansers, lightweight moisturizers, or mineral-based sunscreens. While there is always a risk of irritation when introducing a new product, these are generally tolerated by most skin types.

ACNE 101: CAUSES

Hair Follicles

At all ages, acne breakouts begin when small pores in our skin, known as hair follicles, become blocked or inflamed. We also have sebaceous glands attached to these hair follicles, which produce oil.

Clogged Pores

Sweat, makeup, dirt, oil, or dead skin cells can build up and clog the hair follicle over time. At the same time, bacteria can create inflammation in the hair follicles. These factors can contribute to the formation of breakouts.

In addition to these typical causes of acne, changes in our hormones and oil glands during puberty can make acne more severe.

Oil Glands

When teens go through puberty, hormones cause existing oil glands within the hair follicles to enlarge. This causes an increase in oil production within the cells of the hair follicle

canal.

This increase in oil often causes whiteheads or blackheads to form.

Bacteria

During puberty, there is also an increase in the production of acne-causing bacteria. This can cause whiteheads or blackheads to become more inflamed. If this inflamed material cannot be released, it can break down into the skin and cause deeper cystic lesions to form.

Your teen’s acne could be rooted in any of these causes (or more likely, a combination of them). For this reason, patients often require a few different treatment strategies used together to achieve the best results.

ACNE 101: TREATMENTS

Treat the Bacteria

Normalize Hormones

Birth control pills or spironolactone (for women) are two ways to help target the hormonal component of acne.

Accutane

Accutane is a vitamin A derivative that can be used if necessary to help shrink the oil gland within the hair follicle. This medication should only be prescribed by a trained professional and requires lab monitoring.

In-Office Treatments

At Mona Dermatology, we have several treatment options that can treat the causes of acne, such as normalizing the skin or killing bacteria. Our favorites include the BBL Hero “Forever Clear” acne treatment, chemical peels, and the Diamond Glow facial.

CONSULT AN EXPERT

Increase Cell Turnover

Consider using a topical over-thecounter retinol or prescription retinoids such as Retin-A, Differin, or Tazorac. These will help increase cellular turnover and normalize the top layer of skin. This helps to prevent blackheads and whiteheads from forming.

Unclog Pores

If you sweat or wear makeup, make sure you are washing your face to prevent buildup from accumulating within the hair follicle. Adding a topical acid, such as salicylic acid or glycolic acid, will help exfoliate your skin further.

Using benzoyl peroxide, topical antibiotics, antibiotics can all help to treat the bacterial component of acne. By reducing the acnecausing bacteria, inflammation within the hair follicle can improve.

Constantly trying out new skincare products or combing the wrong ones can be a recipe for a skin disaster. It’s important to make sure your teen is caring for their skin properly, but it can be challenging to know what they are using. At Mona Dermatology, we offer teen skincare consultations that are the perfect place to start! Your teen will be treated to a 45-minute visit, including VISIA Skin Imaging, an in-depth education on the basics of a good skincare regimen, and a complimentary skincare travel bag. They will leave with a basic understanding of what products are harmless to experiment with and which they should avoid combining, so they can have fun with skincare safely. To schedule a teen skincare consult, scan the QR code below or call 513.984.4800.

Create this summer.

From Shanghai to Ohio: Woo Chong Yung

NOW THROUGH AUGUST 18, 2024

Rodin | Response FIELD Family Secrets

NOW THROUGH SEPTEMBER 8, 2024

*The Culture: Hip Hop and Contemporary Art in the 21st Century

NOW THROUGH SEPTEMBER 29, 2024

Free general admission and parking.

*Ticketed. Free for members. Nonmembers can visit The Culture for free Thursdays from 5–8 p.m.

The Culture: Hip Hop and Contemporary Art in the 21st Century is organized by the Baltimore Museum of Art and the Saint Louis Art Museum. This exhibition is generously supported by the Ford Foundation, the Henry Luce Foundation, and The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts.

Ikegwu

Monica Ikegwu

ITALIAN EATS

From lasagna to cioppino, the Queen City has plenty of restaurants for all things Italian.

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN P. 50

The Main Public Library’s $43 million renovation centers on a bright new central stairway designed to improve visitor circulation, celebrate local music history, attract downtown tourists, and possibly give you an excuse to exercise.

BY STEVEN ROSEN

PORTSMOUTH GETS CLEAN P. 54

The opioid pill mills shut down, the corrupt doctors were locked up, and rehab centers are booming. Is this southern Ohio region on the road to recovery?

BY PHILIP EIL

THE EGGPLANT PARMESAN FROM ROSIE’S ITALIAN KITCHEN, WITH SEVEN LAYERS OF EGGPLANT PLUS RICOTTA AND MOZZARELLA CHEESE.

Join us at the historic Peterloon Estate for a chic yet casual evening picnic.

Explore the grounds, sample curated picnic treats from local restaurants and sponsors, enjoy a cocktail on the terrace, or play croquet in the sunken garden with your friends.

SPONSORED BY

A PORTION OF THE PROCEEDS BENEFITPRESENTED BY

14 / CONTRIBUTORS

14 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FRONTLINES

17 / DISPATCH Harrison, Ohio, is reaching new heights

18 / SPEAK EASY

Rockstar Adrian Belew at Bogart’s

18 / OPERA

Paul McCartney premieres at Cincinnati Opera

20 / STYLE COUNSEL

Alishia Lee’s size inclusivity

22 / STOREFRONT

Hyde Park’s Cockerill Gallery features worldly art

24 / ON THE MARKET

A family- and pet-friendly OTR home

26 / DR. KNOW Your QC questions answered

COLUMNS

28 / WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD

Entering the workforce, past and present BY JUDI KETTELER

88 / OBSCURA

Name a bee at the Cincinnati Art Museum BY CLAIRE LEFTON

DINE

76 / MAIN REVIEW

The Aperture, Walnut Hills

78 / REVISIT

The original Sugar n’ Spice, Paddock Hills

78 / TABLESIDE

Zest Cincy founder Stephanie Lindsay

79 / FIELD NOTES

Urban Artifact’s new THC-infused sodas

80 / TRY THIS

Korean Fried Corn Dogs at Decibel Korean Fried Chicken

82 / DINING GUIDE

Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list

ON THE COVER photograph by MARLENE ROUNDS

food styling by BRITTANY DEXTER

An extra serving of our outstanding dining coverage.

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.

Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.

Insight and analysis on the Reds and FC Cincinnati.

As a Cincinnati-based team with 60+ years of combined experience, we help everyone from executives and business owners to retirees and families navigate virtually every step of their financial future. From the appetizer to the dessert.

Investing For Your Tomorrow

Readiness — Retirement can sneak up faster than you think. Our financial plans help ensure you're comprehensively prepared to embark on a new chapter.

Resilience — Life's surprises shouldn't derail your plans. We incorporate risk management strategies to help protect you from the unexpected.

Reflection — Retirement is a great time to reflect on what matters most. Our estate planning strategies helps you build a legacy in line with your values and priorities.

Health Watch Women’s Health

OUR TEAM

John Gould: Senior Vice President. Financial Advisor. CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™. Senior Portfolio Manager. Chartered Portfolio Manager®. Certified Private Wealth Advisor®. Certified Exit Planning Advisor®. Workplace Advisor - Equity Compensation. Alternative Investments Director. 28+ years of experience. Anna Kohlem: Assistant Vice President. Wealth Management Associate. Financial Planning Specialist. Complex CSA Coach. 26+ years of experience. Janie Shaffer: Business Development Director. Duke University graduate. Former attorney. 6+ years of industry experience.

Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC (“Morgan Stanley”), its affiliates and Morgan Stanley Financial Advisors or Private Wealth Advisors do not provide tax or legal advice. Clients should consult their tax advisor for matters involving taxation, tax planning and their attorney for matters involving trust, estate planning and other legal matters. CFP Board owns the marks CFP®, CERTIFIED FINANCIAL PLANNER™, and CFP® (with plaque design) in the U.S. Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC offers a wide array of brokerage and advisory services to its clients, each of which may create a different type of relationship with different obligations to you. Please visit us at http://www.morganstanleyindividual.com or consult with your Financial Advisor to understand these differences. Morgan Stanley Smith Barney LLC. Member SIPC. CRC 6589698 4/24 07.24

Local fertility specialists can help you navigate the challenges along the way to parenthood.

BONUS FOR SUBSCRIBERS

Little Miami River Chamber Alliance

2024 Membership Directory and Resource Guide

Discover what makes the City of Loveland and Symmes and Miami townships a mustvisit region.

FROM LEFT: JOHN GOULD, ANNA KOHLEM, AND JANIE SHAFFER

Are you or someone you care about experiencing feelings of , , or ? Are you just not feeling like yourself? Lindner Center of HOPE understands how the symptoms of mental illness can make you feel. We can help. Our transformative continuum of care is designed to meet you where you are and promote long-lasting healing.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF John Fox

DESIGN DIRECTOR Brittany Dexter

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS

Amanda Boyd Walters

SENIOR EDITOR

Aiesha D. Little

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Emma Balcom

DIGITAL EDITOR Claire Lefton

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

Brianna Connock

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jim DeBrosse, Jay Gilbert, Lisa Murtha, Laurie Pike, John Stowell, Linda Vaccariello, Jenny Wohlfarth, J. Kevin Wolfe

EDITORIAL INTERNS Pieper Buckley, Paige Davis, Victoria Donahoe

DIGITAL INTERNS Charlie Jaeb, Andrew Wagner

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Emi Villavicencio

ART DIRECTOR Stef Hadiwidjaja

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTORS Carlie Burton, Jessica Dunham

ADVERTISING DESIGNERS Sophie Kallis, Matthew Spoleti

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Lance Adkins, Wes Battoclette, Aaron M. Conway, Andrew Doench, Devyn Glista, HATSUE, Chris von Holle, Danielle Johnson, Jen Kawanari, Jeremy Kramer, Ryan Kurtz, Lars Leetaru, Marlene Rounds, Jonny Ruzzo, Dola Sun, Catherine Viox

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR & IT SYSTEMS ADMINISTRATOR Vu Luong

PUBLISHED BY CINCINNATI MEDIA, LLC

CEO Stefan Wanczyk PRESIDENT John Balardo

PUBLISHER Ivy Bayer

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Maggie Wint Goecke, Joe Hoffecker, Julie Poyer

SENIOR MANAGER, SPONSORSHIP SALES

Chris Ohmer

SENIOR OUTSIDE ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Laura Bowling

EVENT COORDINATOR

Savannah Walling

BUSINESS

OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Missy Beiting

BUSINESS COORDINATOR Erica Birkle

CIRCULATION

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Geralyn Wilson

CIRCULATION MANAGER Riley Meyers

EDITORIAL/ADVERTISING OFFICES

1818 Race St., Suite 301 Cincinnati, OH 45202 (513) 421-4300

E-MAIL cmletters@cincinnatimagazine.com WEB cincinnatimagazine.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS

1-866-660-6247

E-MAIL Cincinnati_Service@hourmediagroup.com

BEST MAGAZINE IN OHIO

2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2016, 2017, 2020, 2021, 2022 Ohio Excellence in Journalism Awards

Photo by Connie Kimsey

LLIKE MANY PEOPLE WITH NO ITALIAN HERITAGE, I OWE SOME OF MY APPRECIAtion of Italian food to Stanley Tucci. He was a relative Hollywood newcomer in 1996 when he cowrote, codirected, and starred in Big Night Now he’s a movie star traveling across Italy explaining various food traditions for CNN.

Big Night told the story of two brothers from Italy (Tucci and Tony Shalhoub) who open a restaurant in New Jersey in the 1950s and serve creative dishes to locals who just want spaghetti and meatballs. They go all out one evening for a famous singer who supposedly is coming to dine there, and the resulting cooking/serving/consuming scenes are mind-blowing. It was my (and most Americans’) introduction to timpano. If we’d known the term “food porn” in the ’90s, this film might have received an X rating.

Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy is in its second season of following the actor around as he tries regional delicacies, meets local personalities, gets quick history lessons, and speaks a bit of the language. He’s so engaging and genuine, especially when he’s stuffing his face.

I’m sure that when I first saw Big Night 28 years ago, I was one of those heathens who ordered just spaghetti and meatballs. That and pizza were the Americanized version of Italian cuisine, and my family didn’t do a lot of exploring beyond those items. I didn’t learn the term “pasta” until later; there were just diff erent shapes and sizes of spaghetti.

Tucci’s current CNN season takes us to Puglia, Calabria, and Liguria, Italian regions I really don’t know much about. We’ve all heard of Tuscany, and many of you have traveled throughout Italy yourselves, but I wasn’t familiar with the food differences across the country, especially from north to south.

One of the best things about food—especially cuisines you didn’t grow up with—is that it always comes with a story about the ingredients, the traditions, and the people making and serving it. Even in Cincinnati, far from the Mediterranean Sea, stories are served with every Italian meal. Read a few of them in “Italian Eats” (page 36).

JOHN FOX EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

PHILIP EIL

Based in Providence, Rhode Island, Philip Eil recently published a book about the opioid crisis in and around Portsmouth, Ohio, Prescription for Pain: How a Once-Promising Doctor Became the “Pill Mill Killer.” An excerpt (“Portsmouth Gets Clean,” page 54) describes how he investigated his father’s medical school classmate, Paul Volkman, who’s now in prison. “I had no idea that tracking him would turn into a 15-year reporting odyssey,” says Eil.

Cincinnati photographer Marlene Rounds has more than 20 years of experience shooting commercial and editorial assignments with products, people, and food, including the studio images in “Italian Eats” (page 36). “Italy might have many regions with their own distinct style,” she says, “but I’m a fan of the classic ‘red sauce joint.’ ”

GARIN PIRNIA

Covington freelance writer Garin Pirnia hasn’t been to Italy—she really wants Stanley Tucci to take her!—but enjoyed learning and writing about the history of some of her favorite dishes, like burrata and tiramisu (“Dishing on the Classics,” page 46). “Now, every time I eat the alcohol-soaked dessert, I’ll think about how the word translates to ‘cheer me up,’ ” she says. “And that’s what Italian food does.”

MARLENE ROUNDS

Y WAYAYSREEADY STH DAL EAN HE ALWAAY A

For the critically injured and their families, it’s comforting to know that UC College of Medicine trauma surgeons are available 24/7 — providing all phases of emergency care, from initial treatment to surgical repair and rehabilitation. But they don’t stop there. The trauma team members are esteemed teachers and researchers, training military physicians in best practices for the treatment and transport of injured soldiers, developing new protocols for the use of blood products and resuscitation, and educating the public about bleeding control and fall prevention. It’s a full spectrum approach, unfailingly dedicated to superior outcomes. And it’s right here in Cincinnati.

Left to right: Mike Goodman, MD; Lane Frasier, MD; Amy Makley, MD; and Aaron Seitz, MD, Department of Surgery

THE HEIGHTS OF HARRISON

The small Hamilton County city has experienced significant growth in the last two decades. Will it bend or break under pressure? EMMA BALCOM

HEN RYAN GRUBBS WAS GROWING UP, HE REMEMBERS HARRISON BEING A QUIeter town, a place with farms and cornfields, where the land north of I-74 was relatively vacant. “I was raised four minutes north of here and spent my entire life around Harrison,” he says. “I remember when that strip of businesses by Tall Oaks was pretty much the only thing. I remember when the McDonald’s was built. All the rest of it was open field.”

Both the city and Grubbs are different now. The western Hamilton County community has undergone substantial development—subdivisions for young families, strip malls for busy shoppers, and myriad other establishments have rapidly popped up around Harrison. For his part, Grubbs is now serving his first term as Harrison’s mayor after a decade on city council.

While many families have only recently moved to the Harrison area to raise their children, others have been around for generations, and events such as annual food truck rallies and Christmas parades carry on decades-long traditions. Things don’t look quite the same as they did before, yet Grubbs says that the small-town feel he remembers from his childhood persists. “Sitting at the park, listening to live music, and just enjoying the evening with kids and adults dancing are things I remember as a kid, and that’s what made Harrison great,” he says.

On the border of Ohio and Indiana, 20-plus miles northwest of downtown Cincinnati, Harrison is a prime location to live and work for people who want to be close to the luxuries of an urban environment without being in the middle of it. Its growing popularity is evident—in the last 20 years, Harrison’s

CONTINUED ON P. 18

population has nearly doubled, from about 7,400 to more than 13,500.

City offi cials have encouraged development over the years, focusing on bringing more business to the city— small entrepreneurs and large commercial companies alike—to create more jobs, and they have been largely successful. “Whether it’s retail, restaurants, medical,” says Grubbs. “ It’s also trying to recruit and bring in some large corporate customers and commercial customers that can potentially alleviate some of that tax burden on our residents.”

Recently, Divert, a company that creates sustainable infrastructure to prevent wasted food, has started the process of opening a new location in the city. “They chose Harrison for a number of reasons, including proximity and access to the Krogers of the world,” says Community and Economic Development Director Matt Eisenbraun.

the area just this year, and The District also hosts a number of local events such as the Taste of Harrison.

Harrison on the Move

Find out more about the city’s historic downtown at district harrison.com

Not all residents have been happy to see these changes. The city made headlines early this year when a number of confederate flags were installed by a resident in response to a zoning dispute. The ensuing conflict spiraled until a city councilman was removed from office for vandalizing that resident’s property. As Harrison has approved plans to construct more residential developments—there are currently around 3,400 housing units in the city, with plans for hundreds more in the coming years—citizen advocacy groups call for responsible growth, worried about how the rapid development could overwhelm their infrastructure and diminish the city’s small-town charm.

The District, Harrison’s historic downtown along the Whitewater River, is home to boutiques, restaurants, and shops. Some have been in business for decades, such as the Harrison Home Bakery, serving customers since 1972, and some are new, like The Lilac Moose, a vintage and home decor shop that opened in April. “The District is becoming more of a destination,” says Sara Cullin, executive director of the Greater Harrison Chamber of Commerce.

Three new breweries are opening in

It’s a concern that both Grubbs and Eisenbraun say they take to heart. According to Eisenbraun, the Economic Development, Building, and Zoning department is putting together a strategic development plan to look at the next decade of growth and decide how to accommodate it with more supportive infrastructure.

“It is inevitable that a portion of the population is going to be unhappy about growth,” says Grubbs. “But as Harrison continues to diversify, it allows us an opportunity to give more thought and perspective to all of our approach as we move forward and really be an all-encompassing community.”

THE BEATLES AT THE OPERA

Cincinnati Opera wraps up its summer festival with an adaptation of Paul McCartney’s LiverpoolOratorio. Explore formative memories of The Beatles singer’s life growing up in England with shows July 18–27. cincinnatiopera.org/liverpool-oratorio

ADRIAN BELEW REMAINS ON STAGE

Guitarist Adrian Belew, Jerry Harrison, and an 11-person band perform music from Talking Heads’ landmark 1980 album RemaininLightat Bogart’s on July 26. Harrison was a Talking Heads member, while Belew, a Northern Kentucky native who now lives in Nashville, provided innovative guitar work for that album and toured with the band. Now 74, Belew stays busy with several touring projects; he’ll also be at Taft Theatre October 26 to play music from King Crimson, one of his former groups.

How did this show originate? Jerry and I have seen each other many times over the years, and we always talk about this YouTube video of Talking Heads live in Rome in 1980. What a great show that was, because it made everybody happy and has this buoyance about it that’s missing in almost everything these days. And we said, “Wouldn’t it be great to do something like that now because the world certainly needs it.” When we finally decided to do it, the response was bigger than either of us thought it would be, so we’re still doing it. It’s an 11-piece band and a fabulous show, and

vocals are shared between five of us—myself, Jerry, and the baritone sax player take most of the leads.

What were the recording sessions involving you like for Remain inLight?I went in the studio and they said, “We want you to just go out and listen to this track, put a solo where you think it should be, and we’ll write a song around it.” When I thought it was the right time, I played a solo, and I looked in the control room and they were bouncing off the wall, jumping up and saying, “Love that!” I thought, “Well, that went well,” waited around a little longer and put in a second solo. That became “The Great Curve.” It’s important enough a song from Remainin Lightthat it’s now our closing song.

More important than “Once in a Lifetime?”

“Once in Lifetime” precedes it in the show two or three songs earlier. “Lifetime” was a hit; “Curve” was not a hit, but it stands out with all the music aficionados and guitar players. The solos fit the music perfectly.

—STEVEN ROSEN

READ A LONGER INTERVIEW WITH ADRIAN AT CINCINNATIMAGAZINE. COM

SPEAK EASY

OPERA

CONGRATULATIONS SEVEN HILLS

Aleesha Adhami

Rithvik Allamaneni

Jameel Almuti

Jenna Alshami

Aanvi Anand

Tyler Andersen

Isabelle Anthony

Lina Asfaw

Alice Bachelder

Dhanush Bearelly

Nico Berger

Leila Blackshaw-Brown

Ronan Blair

Ethan Blatt

Kailyn Brown

Max Brown

Alex Burke

Natalia Butler

Nate Campos

Harvey Chen

Noah Clark

Eli Cogan

Nick Cohen

Michael Colizza

John Corbett

Lauren Coulson

Nora Donovan

Callie Drew

Grace Dunson

Ariella Edelstein

Steven Elder

Magnolia Fan

Gardner Follin

Megha Gaitonde

Evelyn Gao

Asa Guigui

Arjun Gupta

Lily Hardware

Nolan Hentz

Michelle Hu

Gavin Isakov

Kaeden Iyoha

Julie Jiang

Timothy Jordan

Heidi Jurgensen

Alexa Kecman

Rylie Keller-Gray

Laila Kerr

Annika Kulkarni

Leon Li

Ed Li

Elan Little

Avi Mahajan

Rocco Maislin

Ria Mittal

Rishi Mittal

Riley Moser

Maggie Motch

Charlie Mullin

Kyler Pang

Kaiya Park

Anish Patil

Erin Pierani

Victoria Quinn

Abby Robinson

Phoebe Rubenstein

Frances Schlueter

Aaron Schneider

Margret Schnirring

Shravan Sekhar

Rex Shaffer

Siddha Shah

Susie Stahl

Carter Stevens

William Sutton

Oliver Szabo

Celine Tan

Margaret Tenney

Lidya Tesfaye

Gabrielle Walker

Nathan Walker

Nathan Wang

Leo Weller

Sophie Wiles

Mikul Wyer

Julia Zeng

Diana Zhang

Lauren Zhang

Julia Zhu

Alishia Lee

OCCUPATION: “By day, I am a senior recruiter for a freight brokerag e company, and by night, I do all things fashion.”

STYLE: “I like to go for the ‘OK!’ Even if it’s in a hoodie and some distressed jeans—this is a lowercase ‘OK.’ We’re c asual today.”

“All things fashion.” What does that entail? I am the vice chair of the Black Design Collective’s Midwest Chapter. Me By Lee is my boutique brand and my custom brand, and recently, I launched Luxe and Long, a full-figured brand. I do fashion shows and fashion presentations, wardrobe, costuming. Anything that has to do with making people feel awesome and telling their story through fashion. How did you get into costume designing? Spoken word and acting was something I did in high school and college. I joined the Black Cinema Collective, and I would get chosen to write or be a part of these independent short films, and they’d tell me, “Your character’s gonna wear XYZ.” And I was like, “OK, cool. I can thrift it. I can make it.” Making clothes for other people became part of my identity. You also mentioned Luxe and Long clothing line. I make sure my runway is diverse—I want full-figured models, I want petite models. When I would dress a full-figured woman, I kept seeing the elation they would feel. They haven’t been dressed in this pattern, or this color hasn’t fit that way before. I started to research how clothes are made. A lot of fast fashion brands that are supposed to be size-inclusive will take the pattern from their sample size and scale it up. But that doesn’t take [proportion] into account. I’m a busty woman, so a cup that’s [small], you can blow it up, and it’s still not gonna fit my boob. Thin spaghetti straps might be great for a size 6 model, but for a size 20, I need something thicker. What’s your favorite thing in your closet? It’s a long, pink, Ankara duster. Ankara is African-print fabric. When I got started, I used a lot of African print.

—JACLYN YOUHANA GARVER

CURIOSITY CORNER

COCKERILL GALLERY BRINGS WORLDLY

ART TO HYDE PARK SQUARE. —M.LEIGHHOOD

Part modern art museum and part eccentric gift shop, Cockerill Gallery’s showcase of curiosities is a Wonderland for aspiring collectors and curious minds. Hand-carved wooden birds from Bali perch under African masks, miniature dioramas assembled in hollowed goose eggs hang from a glittering tree, and elegant iron animal sculptures line the windows. As you browse, you’ll be sure to find something you didn’t catch on the first pass around.

Vickie Cockerill, the gallery’s founder and owner, isn’t new to working with the arts. “I had a store in Mt. Adams in the ’70s, and we traveled a lot,” she says. “Then I met my husband, an artist himself, and I went into advertising with him.”

As that industry shifted, she moved back into a familiar role and opened Cockerill Gallery in March 2002. “Here I am, doing it again, 22 years later,” she says.

The corner storefront invites passers-by to take a peek inside, attracting many of its clientele with windowshopping. It isn’t hard to see why —there’s nothing else quite like the eclectic works on display. “We deal with artists and artisans, so everything’s handmade,” Cockerill says. “There are goods from all over the world: jewelry, handblown glass, metalwork from Zimbabwe.”

Some of those works include Loy Allen’s glass insects. The creatures, which

fit in the palm of your hand, take inspiration from the Art Nouveau movement.

You’ll also find pieces from New York jewelry designer Biba Schutz, who plays with light, shadow, and form. Pottery pieces by Cincinnatian Donna Tukel are made with organic textures and brilliant finishes. And Andi Kay’s bird art comes in many forms, from papier-mâché sculptures to multimedia works to jewelry. Due to the nature of the business, her inventory has grown alongside her developing relationships. “Some artists I’ve worked with for decades, and now I’m working with their kids,” she says. The other part of the business

is running the gallery itself and interacting with customers. “I’ve met so many wonderful people. Sometimes, kids come in with their parents, and they’re so interested in everything here.”

Cockerill wants customers to engage not just with the showcased art, but to approach each item with curiosity. Where did it come from? Who made it, and how, and why? To Cockerill, the story and craft matter as much as the finished work.

COCKERILL GALLERY, 2700 ERIE AVE., HYDE PARK, (513) 681-7444, FACEBOOK.COM/COCKERILLGALLERY

GOOD

The Cockerill Gallery’s African masks aren’t just a bunch of pretty faces. Each piece has its own tradition and comes from experts who typically sell to museums.

AN URBAN RARITY

RENOVATIONS TURN A FOUR-STORY 1880S OTR ITALIANATE—WITH ITS OWN CARRIAGE HOUSE—INTO A FAMILY- AND PET-FRIENDLY HOME . —EMMA BALCOM

HHISTORY MEETS MODERNITY IN THIS FOUR-STORY OVER-THE-RHINE home. Built in 1880 by shoemaker Arnold Lueckmann and his wife Elisabeth, this 3,373-square-foot space comes with all of its original, 19th century charm—exposed brick walls, 11-foot-high ceilings, decorative glass transoms above many of the interior doors, tons of natural light, and ornamental mantles that adorn five separate fireplaces

Despite its age, the five-bedroom, threeand-a-half-bath home has all the luxuries of modern living (it was renovated in 2012).

The kitchen’s new marble backsplash and island countertop are an elegant touch in contrast to the fun, patterned floor tiles. Similar eye-catching tiles appear on the walls and floors of several bathrooms. According to agent Bill Draznik, all of the home’s wood features were painstakingly renovated and preserved as well, from the floors to the shutters

to the window trim.

Draznik calls the property’s carriage house a “rarity” for Cincinnati’s urban core. While most downtown housing requires residents to purchase parking permits for nearby lots and garages, 525 Dandridge has its own two-car garage situated under an office on the second floor.

The detached carriage house features an interior lounge, complete with surround sound. Both carriage house and home have access to the 300-square-foot, fully turfed patio. The outdoor space is completely gated and enclosed from neighboring streets, and comes equipped with a built-in propane grill, making it the perfect space to host a backyard barbecue or to play outside with a furry friend. And this location is pet-friendly—did we mention the second-floor laundry room comes equipped with its own dog bath?

The Carew Tower is just now starting a huge rehab. Will that include the iconic clock on its corner? It has four faces, each showing a different—and wrong— time. Fixing the clocks now would be good optics, but I can’t find any information about who handles Tower maintenance. Can you? —TIMES LIKE THOSE

DEAR THOSE:

To confirm your claim, the Doctor strolled the corner at Fifth and Vine streets, literally watching time pass by. He observed two of the Carew Tower clocks as almost correct and almost in sync. The other two are aimlessly drifting through the past, or perhaps the future. They could

Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, radio personality and advertising prankster. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

be obeying random pulses from the 1977 Voyager space probe.

As you observe, Carew Tower is commencing a long-overdue renovation. “Errant clock” probably does not rank high on anyone’s priority list, but because your point about optics has merit, the Doctor attempted to locate the Tower’s official timekeeper. That effort was, sadly, as circular as a clock: The lobby security guard provided a phone number for someone in New York, and that person suggested asking the lobby security guard. Therefore, fixing the clocks may or may not happen any time soon. We suggest a temporary semi-solution: Just stop them completely. Then, as the old saying goes, the four-faced clock will be accurate eight times a day.

CVG has a little-known Airplane Viewing Area outdoors, where I take my kids. A plaque there says that in 1880 the population center of the U.S. was “a few hundred yards” away. The kids want to know exactly where the true spot is, and why the airport didn’t put the plaque there. —REPLUNK THE PLAQUE

DEAR REPLUNK:

The second part of your question is easily answered, and we hope you quickly provided it: “Look around, kids! This is an airport! Is the exact spot out on one of those runways? Should they have curved the runway around the plaque like in a Bugs Bunny cartoon?” Never let pass an opportunity to educate your children.

CVG’s Airplane Viewing Area—we heartily recommend a visit—shows on its plaque the exact latitude-longitude coordinates of the center of U.S. population in 1880. Armed with these facts, the Doctor has determined precisely where a geographically accurate plaque would be and why it should not be: in the CVG employee parking lot on Loomis Road, right by the northernmost bus-shuttle pickup station. While the plaque could conceivably be placed at that spot, anyone wish-

ing to see it would first need to get a job at the airport. It’s better that you and the family can enjoy the 1880 landmark from “a few hundred yards away.” The actual distance is more than two miles; don’t tell the kids.

A friend showed me photos she took at the American Sign Museum in Camp Washington. One includes a neon sign for Zip’s restaurant, but it can’t possibly be from Cincinnati’s legendary Zip’s on Mt. Lookout Square. It’s very different. Is that a local sign or from an imposter? —ZIP-A-DEE DON’T DAH

DEAR DON’T:

As above with the CVG Airplane Viewing Area, the Doctor recommends a visit to the American Sign Museum. This month a new area is opening there to display more beautifully restored signage, doubling both its square footage and its electric bill. The museum proudly shows many historic signs from Cincinnati businesses, some long-gone and others still thriving. But it is the American Sign Museum, so there are many nationally known signs and others from various locales.

The Doctor hopes you can someday be at peace with the fact that there is more than one restaurant in the U.S. named Zip’s. There’s one in Jupiter, Florida, and another in Magee, Mississippi. There’s a chain of Zip’s drive-ins in Idaho and Washington and a Miz Zip’s in Flagstaff , Arizona. The Zip’s Gastro and Bar in Hungary doesn’t qualify as American, but Zip’s Diner in Danielson, Connecticut, certainly does, and that’s what gave birth to the sign that now glows in comfortable retirement at our Sign Museum. Should Zip’s in Mt. Lookout ever close its doors permanently, please duck as its front awning flies to Camp Washington.

BY JUDI KETTELER

Jobs Are Weird

AS MY TEENAGE KIDS ENTER THE WORKFORCE, I RECALL MY OWN CHECKERED JOB HISTORY.

II GOT MY FIRST PAYCHECK WHEN I WAS 13. IT WAS FOR $22 AND SOME CHANGE. I CAN STILL remember the perforated edges and grass-green border of the check and how I took it to Huntington Bank at Tower Hill Plaza in Ft. Wright and slid it across to the teller, who handed me the bills. I had been hired by the Tri-City Y in Florence to be a junior instructor for gymnastic lessons (I was also on the gymnastics team). I had babysat a little, but this was an actual check with my name typed on it.

With my timesheet and a payday on the 15th and the 30th of every month, everything was suddenly possible! It would be 15 years before I would swear off bosses and steady paychecks for the freedom of self-employment. But in that moment, tearing open the envelope that held my first paycheck, the ways in which working for others would disappoint me weren’t remotely a thing yet. I just wanted to be able to buy Guess jeans, and

this was the way to do it. I was thrilled with that little sliver of financial independence.

All these decades later, I’m watching my teenagers navigate their first work experiences. My son got a job at Kroger after he turned 14, and he’s been working there for a year as a bagger and cart-getter. And my 13-year-old daughter—who already babysits, pet sits, and has sold her bracelets at the “Young Entrepreneur” booth at our town’s farmers’ market the past two summers—is eager to get her first payroll job as soon as she turns 14 in a few months. They are kids with bank accounts and debit cards and financial goals, and though my life in 1987 might as well have been on Mars for how different it feels from theirs, they’re very much like me in their eagerness to join the adult world of commerce and payroll.

Which means I know all the things they have coming. The mid-level manager who will be on a power trip. The policy that feels arbitrary and makes no sense. The coworker who’s difficult to get along with. The realization that every ounce of the working world is just made up: job descriptions, pay structures, procedures. All. Made. Up.

What I hope for them is what I’ve had: a sprinkling of good and bad, of frustrations and failures mixed with little moments of clarity that point the way ahead.

I STAYED WORKING AT THE Y, TEACHING and coaching gymnastics, all through college at NKU. I was paying for school myself—still a reasonable thing to do in the mid-1990s—so I picked up two more jobs.

The first was at Piece Goods, a fabric store in Edgewood. My mom had taught me to sew, and I’d been accompanying her to fabric stores my entire childhood. I loved everything about sewing and patterns and fabric, so getting the chance to work at one felt like a dream. People who sew are generally a nice crowd, and I wasn’t subject to much rudeness. Probably nothing like my three older sisters, who’d all worked at the Roy Rogers in Covington.

I learned to hustle behind that cutting counter. I would roll out a bolt of fabric, use my thumb and forefinger to measure, stabilize my wrist to cut, and then fold it up in a perfect rectangle. I could work the keys on the cash register at lightning speed. I knew what was on sale each week. I knew where every CONTINUED ON PAGE 33

WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD

single thing in the store went. I had so much confidence.

These days, I don’t trust myself to do even the most basic math in my head. I ask Siri everything. Back then, I didn’t need the register to tell me the change. I had a huge girl crush on my manager, a woman in her late thirties with a big personality and great sense of style. I would have done nearly anything to please her. One day, she called me aside. I was doing great, she said, but my attitude could use work and I should smile more.

I still remember the sting. The initial shame, which soon turned into distrust, because I knew that I was polite and competent and trustworthy. I did as I was told, but the place wasn’t the same after that.

Then there was my second job at NKU’s Writing Center, which I told everyone I loved (I had to love it! I was an English major!) but secretly hated. Working there should have been my fi rst inkling that I didn’t like working with students. They’d come with their poorly written papers, and I just wanted to rewrite them. We were supposed to be teaching people how to fish. I wanted to give them the fish (sentences that made sense) and tell them to go away.

But no! I would be a college professor! It was my dream job, dammit. When I got into Miami University’s master’s program with a teaching assistantship and a $7,000 yearly stipend, I was sure I was on my way. My job was teaching two sections of college composition. We had a structure to follow, but the classes were mine, and I had to create the syllabus and lesson plans and do all the grading.

Those first few months, I was in love with the idea of myself as a teacher. But once the honeymoon was over, somewhere around Thanksgiving, I realized I low-key hated it. I loved my graduate work and my seminars. I wanted to read books and write papers about 19th century American literature. I did not want to deal with students every day.

After I got my third set of negative student evaluations, I realized that being a college professor was not the best path for me. The decision to forgo a Ph.D. after I finished my master’s degree hollowed me out and left me feeling pur-

poseless at age 24. I thought I would be debating the racial and sexual politics of anti-slavery literature. Instead, I had to figure out health insurance.

I STUMBLED THROUGH A SERIES OF jobsafter Miami, working for six months each at a publishing company (sales) and a start-up (office manager) and for two years at an agency (copywriter and account manager). The positives of those years of employment: I got my head out of clouds, I made friends and felt like a young professional, I learned how to be a copywriter, I learned how to network, I learned how business and client service worked, and I was able to buy a car and rent an apartment in Oakley.

But I also learned, painfully, that I didn’t like other people being in charge of me and I certainly didn’t want to be in charge of anyone else. I learned that I was wretched at selling something I didn’t believe in. I learned, mostly, that I couldn’t contort myself to fit into other people’s terms. Smile more! Be perky!

I had the good fortune to get laid off, which led me to freelance writing—the thing I was born to do and have now been doing for 22 years. Every so often, one of my longtime clients will say, When are you going to come work full-time for us? to which I usually respond with something like, How about the 20th of Never Ever? It’s our joke, and I say it with all the levity and charm they’ve come to love about me. But I’m not kidding. I’m the last person anyone would want as an employee.

But what a benefit to have been one. So with every complaint my son has, every story about getting in trouble for something that “totally wasn’t my fault,” every frustration with a policy, I think, Soak in all in, kid. Get paid to learn about who you are. If you’re really lucky, you’ll fail, have an existential crisis, and then get knocked on your ass.

It’s so weird how jobs empower us even as they disappoint and disillusion us. If I had gotten that Ph.D., I’d be able to whip out some Marxist theory right about now. Instead, I write my kid’s Kroger schedule on the calendar and make sure his apron is hanging in the mudroom.

“A CELEBRATION OF SPIRITS AND COCKTAILS”

WHEN Sday, August 11 WHERE

VIP 1pm

GENERAL ADMISSION 2-5 pm

SPONSORED BY

Italian0 EATS

When you need comfort food, nothing quite hits the spot like dishes from la Penisola. From lasagna to cioppino, the Queen City has plenty of restaurants for all things Italian.

Emma Balcom

Brianna Connock

M. Leigh Hood

Claire Lefton

Aiesha D. Little

Garin Pirnia

J. Kevin Wolfe and Brandon Wuske by

= patio

Photographs by HATSUE / Icons by Emi Villavicencio

SHROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT

The tagliarini pasta with mushroom ragu at Mama’s on Main features cremini mushrooms, rosemary, black pepper, and Parmesan.

Mama’s0 on Main0

This Covington favorite brings the classic Italian flavors of New York to MainStrasse. Mama’s on Main’s menu features a variety of piccata and parmigiana dishes as well as three handmade pastas: tagliarini with mushroom ragu, ricotta gnocchi with pesto, and lobster-stuffed ravioli with marsala cream sauce. Don’t forget to order a side of focaccia—baked daily and served with whipped ricotta—and enjoy your meal on Mama’s new rooftop patio. If you can’t wait until dinner to grab a bite, try the Mama’s Mornings menu, which serves pastries and espresso every weekend until 1 p.m. 621 Main St., Covington, (859) 360-6051, mamasonmain.com

BIAGIO’S BISTRO

Since 1999, Chef/Owner Biagio Lamassa has been serving up casual Italian cuisine on Ludlow Avenue, and his bistro is a favorite of Clifton locals and college students alike. Pasta is prepared in front of patrons on open burners, and there’s far less marinara to be found here than in other Italian joints. Most dishes have a satisfyingly creamy and garlicky sauce. If you want strong tomato flavor, order the amazing tomato basil soup (and make sure you have some bread left to dip in it). After your meal, try one of the many beautiful and delicious desserts from the pastry case—like the tiramisu that’s soaked in espresso. 308 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 861-4777

FERRARI’S LITTLE ITALY

Aptly named, this restaurant creates its own Italian enclave in Madeira, complete with a restaurant, bakery, and deli. There’s a lot to love, but the pasta is the draw. Mama Bassano’s lasagna (beef, ricotta, mozzarella, Romano cheese, and marinara) has the savory warmth of a homecooked meal, but don’t overlook the tortellini Florentine (spinach and cheese tortellini, sauteed spinach, artichoke hearts, and tomato cream sauce). Ask to dine on the patio for an even more magical experience—complete with a waterfall. 7677 Goff Terrace, Madeira, (513) 272-2220, ferrari littleitaly.com

SOTTO

Sotto means “under” in Italian, which is a fitting name for this sleek downtown restaurant, located beneath Boca. David Falk owns both, and applies his fine dining mastery to the inventive, sophisticated menu at Sotto. Pastas are made in-house and aren’t to be missed, especially the justifiably famous short rib cappellacci. But simple, exquisitely prepared entrées like breaded pork loin with caper and lemon, and the wood-fired branzino, get just as much love as the pasta. And the humming, low-lit space is easily the most romantic in the city. 118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 977-6886, sottocincinnati.com

MAMA MIA!

(From left) Breadcrumbs finish the lobster ravioli at Mama’s on Main; focaccia with whipped ricotta, olive oil, and black pepper; tagliarini with mushroom ragu; tiramisu with an espresso martini; Mama's interior.

Meatball MANIA

Is there a more classic, comforting Italian dish than a scratch-made meatball? While meatballs abound in the tri-state, these are five of my favorites.

—BRANDON WUSKE

ARazzo

One of the things I love most about the pizza at Razzo is its zesty, bright red tomato sauce. So I’m glad the meatballs get a healthy ladling of it. While they’re hearty (with hints of garlic), the sauce is clean and acidic—the perfect counterpoint. The dish works as an appetizer or a meaty meal for one. 1201 Broadway St., Pendleton, (513) 493-2806, razzo.pizza

Five on Vine

When you name your meatballs for your Sicilian grandmother, they’d better be good. Fortunately, that’s the case with Anthony Sitek’s standout “Gracie’s Meatballs.” The ample serving of five meatballs—almost floating in a pool of tomato sauce—might shock purists since raisins and pine nuts go into the mix. But the raisins add a welcome sweetness while the pine nuts add crunch to the soft, loose meatballs. Turns out, Grandma was on to something. 1324 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4301, fiveonvine.com

Jeff Ruby’s

Jeff Ruby’s serves the most luxurious meatballs on our list, and we wouldn’t have expected anything less. True to high-end form, these massive meatballs are made from Wagyu beef. But the bed of subtle, cheesy polenta truly sets this dish apart. While they lack the steaks’ renown, these meatballs are the perfect showcase for the deft technique that has come to define Ruby’s restaurants. 505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 7841200, jeffruby.com

Via Vite

At Via Vite, an appetizer of three veal ricotta meatballs comes covered in a creamy, burntorange sauce. The color comes from the butter, which lingers on the palate after the initial burst of lemon zest. The meatballs themselves are firm but tender (on account of the veal) with hints of ricotta. A sprinkling of Parmigiano Reggiano tops this classic, balanced dish. 520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com

Al-Posto

Al-Posto’s meatballs are relatively simple, served with rich ragu sauce, basil, and a little Parmigiano Reggiano. Like so many other dishes at Al-Posto, this is traditional Italian food done right. At just $12, these hefty, tender meatballs are a great value as well. Or, for $24, you can order them over house-made spaghetti. 2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, al-posto.com

Pepp & Dolores

Nothing you order at OTR mainstay Pepp & Dolores will be anything short of delicious. The approachable upscale vibe is perfect for a date or a nice meal out with friends, and the friendly staff will give you great recommendations on everything from the expertly crafted wine list to the exact number of appetizers and sides that should go with your dish. The pasta is cooked to al-dente perfection with as much Parmesan on top as you please. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of the dishes; even the seemingly basic rigatoni with vodka sauce packs a perfect spicy punch that keeps you coming back for more. 1501 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 419-1820, peppanddolores.com

Via0 Vite0

While Nicola’s feels like a Tuscan oasis in the heart of the city, Via Vite is front and center in Fountain Square. Huge windows bring the downtown action into the massive, two-story space, though the restaurant itself provides plenty of action, too. As soon as you walk in, you’ll see cooks rolling and cutting pasta and you’ll hear the din and sizzle of the open kitchen, which fires out everything from cacio e pepe to braised lamb shank over polenta, all prepared with zest and flair. 520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant. com

A TAVOLA BAR + TRATTORIA

Chewing on A Tavola’s burrata caprese (tomato medley, balsamic vinegar, salt, basil, extra virgin olive oil, pesto, ciabatta) appetizer gives guests ample time to decide on a main course. The cacio e pepe (tonnarelli, pecorino romano, Parmesan, and black pepper) is always a display of quality ingredients, and it’s one of A Tavola’s standout dishes. 7022 Miami Ave., Madeira, (513) 272-0192, atavolapizza.com

AL-POSTO

Al-Posto brings sophisticated Italian cooking to Hyde Park Square. The menu skews southern Italian, reflecting Co-Owner Giovanni Ranieri’s roots. That’s why there is plenty of great seafood on the menu, like the not-to-be-missed grilled branzino and the spicy garlic shrimp diavolo. If you’re more into turf than surf, Al-Posto’s scratch-made pasta will work just fine. Wash it all down with a glass or bottle from Co-Owner/Wine Director Austin Heidt’s excellent wine list. 2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, al-posto.com

PRIMAVISTA

Perched on a hill with floor to ceiling windows, Primavista fills your eyes with breathtaking views of the city’s skyline and your stomach with dishes from all of Italy’s regions. You’ll love the bruschetta topped with goat cheese, honey, and rosemary oil and the Primavista favorite of steamed mussels with white wine butter sauce. Take your pick from the entrées, like cioppino or shrimp and gnocchi. With all of the sauces and oils made in-house, you can’t go wrong. 810 Matson Place, East Price Hill. (513) 251-6467, pvista.com

RODI ITALIAN

Rodi is new to the Queen City dining scene (it opened in 2021), but it’s slowly making a name for itself. Warm up with the Drunken Goat (goat cheese, pomodoro sauce, housemade focaccia), and indulge in some lasagna or spaghetti al pomodoro, but save space for the dolce menu and the restaurant’s celebration of Italian coffee culture. You can savor an affogato (vanilla gelato and espresso) or take home a slice of tiramisu after lingering over a latte with friends. 115 Karl Brown Way, Loveland, (513) 774-7634, rodiitalian.com

FORNO

Part of the Cristian Pietoso’s family of restaurants, Forno boasts high quality, authentic Italian ingredients. Born and raised in Italy, the Florence native frequently visits home to find inspiration for Forno’s dishes. The Bolognese and lasagna verdi are two fan favorites, and you can try them for a bargain on Bolo Tuesdays and Lasagna Verdi Thursdays. 3514 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 818-8720; 9415 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 231-5555, fornoosteriabar.com

Happy 70th, LaRosa’s!

Our hometown favorite is now a septuagenarian. —EMMA BALCOM

Cincinnati staple LaRosa’s Pizzeria opened the doors of its first location in Westwood in 1954, and

founder Buddy LaRosa used his Aunt Dena’s recipe from day one. Her method called for baking

some pizza toppings under the cheese—a technique that’s made the restaurant a favorite across the tri-state. Today, LaRosa’s has 64 franchises across Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana—from Louisville to Columbus and in a handful of cities in between—

capturing a quarter share of the local pizza market, averaging higher per-store sales than popular national chains like Domino’s or Papa John’s. Cincinnati celebrated LaRosa’s milestone birthday this year with a proclamation declaring March

25 as LaRosa’s Day. The Duke Energy Convention Center followed up the occasion by lighting up its sign in the colors of the Italian flag— green, white, and red—for four evenings in late March.

TURF AND SURF (From left) Via Vite’s bruschetta “Stracciatella e Pomodoro” with smashed burrata, tomato, prosciutto, and basil; Lobster Tortelloni al Nero is served with fresh cold water lobster, ricotta, lemon, and hazelnut gremolata.

Shell Shock

Joseph Helm, the executive chef at Subito, says making pasta is a labor of love. “It’s easy food done right with high quality ingredients,” he explains. “You have to put the labor of grinding the cheese into it. You have to put the labor of making the pasta into it.” He recently showed us how he makes one of the restaurant’s featured dinner entrées, Lion’s Mane Lumache. (“Lumache” means “snail” in Italian—check out the snail shell shape!) —AIESHA D. LITTLE

1 Helm blends semola and pasta flours imported from Italy in a pasta extruder. Semola is a finer ground version of semolina flour (used for pizza dough), which

gives a better texture inside the pasta.

2 A mixture of egg whites, egg yolks, olive oil, and water is added to the flour mix, and churned for around 90

seconds, until the mixture looks like popcorn.

3 Using a bronze die specifically for lumache pasta, the mixture is extruded from the

machine and 4 left to dry on racks for two days.

5 When the pasta is completely dry, it’s boiled, the lion’s mane mushroom is browned and mixed with a sauce of butter, garlic, shallot, wine, chili flakes, and brodo (Parmesan stock). “This is all done by eye, flavor, taste, and experience,” Helm says.

6 The pasta and mushrooms are tossed in pecorino.

7 The dish is finished with citrus zest and pea tendrils before it’s served.

Dishing on the Classics

Italians do it better, especially when it comes to these beloved items.

—GARIN PIRNIA

Gelato

In Italian, gelato means “frozen,” and is a type of ice cream. However, it only contains 6 to 9 percent butterfat whereas ice cream contains 10 to 25 percent. It’s softer than ice cream and has more milk and less cream, meaning overall it’s healthier than American ice cream. The gelato and sorbet we love today dates back to the 1550s, when Cosimo Ruggeri created the flavor fior di latte (“flower of milk”). Nicola’s (1420 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, 513-721-6200, nicolasotr.com) makes its own gelato and sorbettos, including seasonal flavors. Italian-Argentinian restaurant Alfio’s Buon Cibo (2724 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, 513-321-0555, alfios-cincy.com) hand rolls its gelato while the house-made salted-vanilla gelati at Sotto (118 E. Sixth St., downtown, 513-977-6886, sottocincinnati.com) comes as an affogato.

Gnocchi

Every culture seems to have its version of a dumpling, and gnocchi is Italy’s contribution (it’s been around since Roman times). The dough’s made from wheat flour, egg, and potato and shaped into small bites. Once boiled, the gnocchi’s dressed with herbs, cheese, and other ingredients. Via Vite (520 Vine St., downtown, 513-721-8483, viaviterestaurant. com) makes it by hand, resulting in a crispy gnocchi with fonduta, chive, and truffle. The version at Nicola’s is also handmade but zhuzhed up a little more—crispy potato gnocchi with four-cheese fondue, chives, and Italian truffle shavings.

Burrata

Invented in Southern Italy, burrata became popular in the 1950s. Italians use buffalo milk to make the mozzarella-like casing. But unlike mozz, a pouch is formed and filled with cream. Opening the pouch results in the rich cream oozing out, a total delight of sweet cream and cheese. Nicola’s makes lobster and burrata ravioli, and Kitchen (300 E. Seventh St., downtown, 513-381-1243, rosiesitaliankitchen.com) adds aged balsamic. Forno Osteria & Bar (9415 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, 513-231-5555; 3514 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, 513-818-8720, fornoosteriabar.com) fancy with basil pesto, and pomodoro in gelatina, served with housemade focaccia. Alfio’s Buon Cibo generates a tomato, olive, and thyme fondue and places it inside pulled mozzarella.

Tiramisu

It’s unclear when the Italians invented the delicious dessert, but supposedly restaurateur Ado Campeol’s wife, Alba di Pillo, and pastry chef Roberto Linguanotto first served it at their restaurant Le Beccherie in Treviso, Italy, in 1969. The traditional method soaks ladyfingers (sponge cake biscuits) in coffee and layers them with a mixture of eggs, sugar, and mascarpone, and sprinkles the top layer with cocoa. In Italian, “tirami su” translates to “pick me up” or “cheer me up,” and that’s probably because of the addition of liqueur like Kahlúa or rum. Forno and Rosie’s offers traditional versions, but Alfio’s makes a decadent “Taste of Cincinnati” award-winning chocolate caramel version that’s layered with whipped dulce de leche mascarpone and espresso-infused chocolate.

Ravioli

Akin to gnocchi, ravioli is another type of Italian dumpling, except typically square in shape and stuffed with a variety of ingredients. The word “ravioles” first appeared in a 14th century Italian cookbook, and traces its roots to Central and Northern Italy. In America, ravioli evolved to be synonymous with Chef Boyardee and the toasted ravioli, a St. Louis creation. However, in Cincinnati, Russo’s Ravioli (russosravioli.com) has been making ravioli by hand using the family’s great grandfather’s recipe since 1945. These ravioli gurus don’t have a brick-and-mortar location but you can visit a local farmers’ market (like the ones in Hyde Park and Montgomery), Findlay Market, Dee Felice Market, or Jungle Jim’s to purchase Russo’s lemon-basil ricotta, traditional meat, and threecheese options.

Rosie’s0 Italian0 Kitchen0

From the giant pop art mural on the wall, it’s clear that Rosie’s likes to do things a little differently and have a little more fun. You can go traditional and indulge in handmade pastas like the gnocchi Genovese with the creamiest and most buttery pesto sauce this side of the Atlantic. Or you could be more adventurous and try the fried lasagna bites filled with three different kinds of cheese with a side of mushrooms carbonara. Don’t forget to order from the extensive list of spritz cocktails like the insanely refreshing Limoncello Spritz, perfect for a summer’s day. 300 E. Seventh St., downtown, (513) 381-1243, rosiesitalian kitchen.com

NICOLA’S

Nicola’s, which opened in 1996, still feels as fresh as a ripe San Marzano. Cristian Pietoso took over from his father in 2021 and continues the restaurant’s tradition of excellence. Service is impeccable, while the food is seasonal and refined. You’ll find classic Italian dishes here—like the beloved eggplant parmigiana—alongside more novel dishes, like grilled octopus with pickled giardiniera. And the wine list is arguably the best in the city for Italian varietals. 1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 7216200, nicolasotr.com

SUBITO

With a menu focusing on Northern Italian fare, including traditional antipasti, housemade pastas with from-scratch sauces, and a raw bar with fresh seafood flown in daily, you’ll be sure to find your new favorite Italian meal at Subito. Pair your plate with an Italian wine or cocktail (negronis, bellinis, and the exclusive Lytle Park limoncello are favorites on the menu). Dine inside and catch a glimpse of the chefs preparing your dish or take it outdoors on the patio fitted with fireplaces.

311 Pike St., downtown, (513) 6214500, subitoatlytlepark.com

ROSIE THE RIVETING

(Above) Gnocchi Genovese (with basil, heavy cream, and spinach) and bucatini carbonara (with bacon, English peas, egg, and Parmesan) at Rosie’s Italian Kitchen (left).

Time in a Bottle

The Queen City is home to a few Italian restaurants that make their bread and butter on staying exactly the same. —J. KEVIN WOLFE

Scotti’s

When people say Scotti’s has been there forever, they mean it. It’s been more than 110 years. My father regularly took office guests there to be insulted by Tennerina the waitress, self-proclaimed as “the first Italian woman in Cincinnati with the guts to divorce her husband.” The original interior of the place remains intact, down to the decades-old, wickered Chianti bottles that regularly fall from the ceiling. The food seems very much like Grandma made it, as opposed to a gourmet chef. Occasionally they won’t let you order off the menu and fix something special just for you. (But don’t dare ask.) 919 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-9484, scottisitalianrestaurant.com

Pompilio’s

About 15 years ago, I walked into Pompilio’s (after the owners had gussied up the place) and who was sitting there?

Buddy LaRosa and the Mrs. I said, “Buddy, what gives?” He said he only ate at two Italian places in town—his own and Pompilio’s. The place still has the bar that’s been there since 1902 and made famous in the movie Rain Man. And it still serves the original 1933 recipes, like the homemade ravioli. But in my opinion, saving the bread so you can dip it in the remnants of the red sauce with a little cheese shaken on top is well worth the trip. 600 Washington Ave., Newport, (859) 581-3065, pompilios.com

Sorrento’s

The late owner Willie DeLuca could balance anything on his nose, including the tip of the samurai sword he kept behind the bar. His father, Enrico (into his 90s), used to come in every morning to make the sausage. I’d get the Margherita pizza and always had to ask for it well done to get it perfect. Willie and Pops are gone but longtime customer Bronson Trebbi took over the place to carry on the tradition, preserving the family recipes as well as adding a few upscale items. Sorrento’s always was and always will be the neighborhood hangout for a beer and a slice. 5143 Montgomery Rd., Norwood, (513) 531-5070, sorrentos norwood.com

Pasquale’s

Pasquale’s was Cincinnati’s first pizza chain. And Lou Roberto, one of the founders, also opened the first franchise location on Monmouth Street in 1958. It’s still there and still run by the family, four generations later. The hoagies are legendary, and for most aging Cincinnatians, it’s likely the first pizza they ever tasted. But my strongest memory from years ago is Pasquale’s meatballs nestled in spaghetti and drowning in that sauce. Like any good Italian joint, it comes down to how long you simmer the red sauce. This one is still made from the family recipe. 630 Monmouth St., Newport, (859) 2911443, pasquales newport.com

SCOTTI'S

The Main Public Library ’s $43 million renovation centers on a bright new central stairway designed to improve visitor circulation, celebrate local music history, attract downtown tourists, and possibly give you an excuse to exercise.

As my interview with Cincinnati and Hamilton County Library Director Paula Brehm-Heeger begins, one of the architects participating via Teams uses a top-secret image as his virtual background. Daniel LaRossa of San Francisco’s Group 4 Architecture Research and Planning, calling in from Philadelphia, accidentally displays the centerpiece of the library’s $43 million overhaul of its main downtown branch: A grand stairway in the main lobby named the Social Stairs.

The stairs rise in stages from the first floor of the south building at 800 Vine Street, climbing up the massive atrium past three other levels—one public and two with closed stacks—to arrive at the third floor underneath a new skylight. At first glance, I think walking the stairway could be the public library equivalent of climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.

But even more arresting is the stairway’s design. Along its guardrails is a spectrum- or peacock-like surface of many colors—thin vertical bands of vibrant blue, yellow, green, orange, and other colors. Seen from a distance, it’s as if they collectively form a magic curtain beckoning

someone to walk up and continue straight through the ceiling. Does Shangri-La await on the other side? Oz? Heaven?

I mention the supposed secrecy around the stairway design, and LaRossa gets a bit nervous. “I don’t know if I’m supposed to have this for the background,” he says. “I’m sorry, Paula. Should I change it?”

Brehm-Heeger just laughs.“Danny is so proud of this,” she says to me and architect Bryan Duncan of Cincinnati-based Champlin Architecture, who also worked on the overall rehab project.“Librarians across the country are excited about it,” says LaRossa, whose firm specializes in library building projects.

He needn’t have worried about leaking secret information to me, because I’d been able to get a first-hand peek during the construction phase. For everyone else, the Social Stairs will be revealed at a public celebration the weekend of July 12–14 when the south building fully reopens after almost three years of renovation work.

The big surprise is the stairway’s unexpectedly and subtly deep tribute to the history of music with a Cincinnati connection. The railings are composed of a post system that supports a lit handrail and “buttons” that hold glass guardrail panels in place. Each panel is labeled with the name of a notable Cincinnati-related recording—both single songs and albums. A total of 1,600 panels are organized in chronological order, from 1945 on the ground floor up through 2023.

All that text—and the overall stairway itself—gets transformed into a striking visual presence because each genre of music has been color-coded. There are 31 genres altogether, and part of the learning experience for the public will be seeing how and when such newer genres as

hip-hop, funk, electronica, noise rock, and Americana make their presence known among such historical standards as R&B, country, blues, rock, and even polka. In a way, it’s a kind of visual exercise in how evolution works, using music rather than drawings of human beings or animals.

The Social Stairs are meant to become the visual centerpiece and artistic gateway of the main library’s refreshed interior and maybe even a downtown tourist attraction and an exercise device in their own right. This is a far different thing from your ordinary, purely functional office staircase.

I ask if the Social Stairs compare to Rome’s famous outdoor Spanish Steps, which are wide enough for sitting and gathering and serve as a destination in their own right. “That’s exactly what it is,” says LaRossa. “The first part of the stairs, that’s kind of a gathering space for people to sit, hang out. But we wanted to make sure people could inhabit the full stairs as well and not just use it to traverse through the floors.”

CONTINUED ON PAGE 68

“The first part of the stairs, that’s kind of a gathering space for people to sit, hang out. But we wanted to make sure people could inhabit the full stairs as well and not just use it to traverse through the floors.”

BOOK IT THE MAIN PUBLIC LIBRARY DOWNTOWN ACTUALLY CONSISTS OF THREE BUILDINGS (BELOW): THE 1955 BUILDING, THE 1982 ADDITION, AND THE 1990 NORTH BUILDING AND CONNECTING BRIDGE ACROSS NINTH STREET. THE NEW LOBBY AND SOCIAL STAIRS OFFER A BRIGHTER, BETTER CONNECTED MAIN ENTRANCE.

The opioid pill mills shut down, the corrupt doctors were locked up, and rehab centers are booming. Is this southern Ohio

GETS CLEAN

PHILIP EIL

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GRANT MOXLEY

Prosecutors alleged that Volkman had unleashed a torrent of controlled substances (opiates, tranquilizers, and muscle relaxers) in a region al-

n Valentine’s Day 2012 in a federal courtroom in Cincinnati, a medical doctor was sentenced to four consecutive life terms in prison. Paul Volkman, then 65, had committed his crimes working at cashonly pain clinics in Portsmouth and Chillicothe between 2003 and 2006.

repeatedly, and generally tried to make sense of a bewildering story. How does a high school valedictorian become, in the words of a Drug Enforcement Ad-

Unfortunately the doctor is, to put it mildly, an unreliable narrator. And throughout the book, I off and exhaustive fact-check of his tale, based on documents, on-scene reporting, and interviews with more than 100 people.

I also spend a lot of time discussing Portsmouth, where most of Volkman’s crimes occurred. By now, the city’s overdose crisis has been featured in Health Corporation, and Al Jazeera. In 2015, Sam Quinones made the cal point of his book, True Tale of America’s Opiate Epidemic In 2017, one

activity related to opiates in recent decades, no sentence matches or exceeds Volkman’s.

His sentencing was also a noteworthy moment for me personally. Back in the 1960s and ’70s, he’d gone to both college and medical school with my father. And Charles Eil, M.D.—a nerdy, soft-spoken endocrinologist— is one of the last people you’d expect to know a guy convicted of such horc crimes. When I learned about this connection, I was shocked and fascinated. My dad, who had mostly lost touch with Volkman, couldn’t account for how his old classmate had “broken bad.” And, as a young journalist, I found the mystery irresistible. What on Earth happened to this guy?

By 2012, I had interviewed extensively, traveled to southern Ohio

And I expanded on the story further with a book, Prescription for Pain: How a Once-Promising Doctor Became the “Pill Mill Killer,” published by Steerforth Press in April. When I returned to Cincinnati in May for an author event at Joseph-Beth Booksellers, the audience included a prosecutor who worked on the trial and DEA agents who’d handled the investigation. is my attempt to place Volkman’s story in its full context. Because I interviewed him over more than a decade, I draw heavily on his version of his own life story, including his account of what happened in southern Ohio. (Now 77, he’s doing his time at a federal prison

But, just as I didn’t want Volkman’s deceased patients to be defi by their deaths—they were people with careers, hobbies, and family members who loved them—I didn’t want Portsmouth to be defined by its darkest hour. And back over the years Portsmouth 10 times and spoke with

Photograph courtesy Philip Eil

In August 2018 , more than 1,400 people gathered in downtown Portsmouth, Ohio, to break the Guinness World Record for simultaneous plant-potting. A few months later, more than 1,850 assembled nearby to break the record for most people singing Christmas carols at one place and time, snatching the record from its previous holder, Waukesha, Wisconsin. A year later, in December 2019, Portsmouth claimed yet another Christmas-themed record when 1,482 people gathered in to wrap gifts simultaneously.

Each of these events was accompanied by a blast of press releases, which often led to coverage from local news outlets. “Portsmouth, Ohio, has been in the national spotlight for over a decade due to the devastating effects from the rise and fall of its ‘pill mills,’ ” read a release promoting the plantpotting record attempt. “Our hope is that an epic one-day downtown transformation and setting a Guinness World Records title will encourage outsiders, including businesses, to plant Portsmouth as a destination for business relocation, tourism, and raising a family.”

At the bottom of the release was the name and e-mail address of a local attorney, Jeremy Burnside, who had started an organization called Friends of Portsmouth. And

because I had written an article about Paul Volkman and his pain clinics in Cincinnati Magazine in 2017, I later received a personal e-mail from Burnside.

“As you can imagine, you are not the only national reporter to write about our problem,” he wrote. “As you also can imagine, there had to be a breaking point—a rally cry where the whole community got together to say, ‘enough.’ ”

He was writing to inquire if I would consider writing a follow-up story about how, in his words, “the opioid epicenter is now… rising from the addiction ashes to rebuild through restoring community pride.”

Burnside wasn’t the only one who was eager to shift the narrative about Portsmouth. In a Cincinnati Enquirer op-ed in 2019, Ryan Ottney, a former Portsmouth Daily Times reporter who had become a councilman in the nearby village of New Boston, said that he appreciated the need to tell stories about Portsmouth’s opiaterelated struggles. “But there’s another side to Scioto County that doesn’t often make the news,” he said. “It’s the people who have stayed in town and are working together to help rebuild our community.” In the essay, he touted the achievements of local advocates

CONTINUED ON PAGE 70

BACK FROM THE ABYSS PORTSMOUTH RESIDENTS TODAY ARE TRYING TO FOCUS ON ITS FAMOUS NATIVE SONS AND DAUGHTERS (MURAL AT LEFT) INSTEAD OF ITS INFAMOUS PILL MILL DOCTORS LIKE PAUL VOLKMAN (FORMER OFFICE ABOVE). A MANSION OWNED BY ANOTHER OPIATE-PRESCRIBING DOCTOR, WHO SERVED 11 YEARS IN PRISON, HAS BEEN CONVERTED TO A RECOVERY FACILITY BY PINNACLE TREATMENT CENTERS (BELOW).

HEALTH WATCH 2024 WOMEN’S HEALTH

Sherita sees High Customer Engagement in these Wellness Categories

Gluten-free and allergen-friendly options: For individuals with dietary restrictions or allergies, gluten-free products, no dairy alternatives, and allergen-friendly snacks can help accommodate their needs while supporting their wellness journey. 1.2.3.

High-protein products: For those seeking to increase their protein intake, ready-to-drink protein shakes and protein bars and powders are popular options.

Vitamin C: An essential nutrient that supports immune system health and provides antioxidant support. It’s also involved in collagen formation, which is important for healthy skin and connective tissues. Make these caplets part of your daily supplement routine and support your body with a little more vitamin C.

WellnessTips fromSheritaScott

Kroger’s commitment to “Fresh for Everyone” drives its dedication to providing fresh and affordable food with zero compromise on value, quality or selection. With a focus on innovation, they offer a diverse range of products, including health and wellness options for consumers to select from.

The remarkable woman behind the scenes ensuring that these products are available at your neighborhood Kroger store is Sherita Scott, Category Manager for Health & Beauty Care at Kroger. Sherita is celebrating her 20 year anniversary at Kroger this year.

MeetSherita

As the Category Manager at Kroger, I take pride in delivering quality goods and services to our customers while curating diverse product assortments. Leading and inspiring my team, collaborating with vendors, and supporting the overall success of our stores keeps me driven and passionate about my role each day.

“I prioritize my well-being in the most fabulous way possible, whether treating myself to a spa day, a rejuvenating getaway, or simply unwinding with a good book and a glass of bubbly.”

-SheritaScott

3. 4.

“If Cincinnati Magazine readers want to begin a wellness journey, what tips can you share?”

Superfoods: Superfoods are nutrient-dense foods that offer various health benefits. Examples include Greens Supplement Drinks and Powders, turmeric, and matcha.

Collagen supplements: Collagen supplements are popular for promoting skin health, join support, and nail health. Collagen peptides and collagen-rich products such as bone broth are common choices.”

Vital Proteins Collagen Peptides, Available at Kroger stores & Kroger.com

Vitamin D: An essential nutrient that works with calcium to help develop strong bones and teeth and supports a healthy immune system. Supplementing with vitamin D3 is an easy and convenient way to increase your vitamin D intake.*

Sherita recommends starting with small, achievable steps that prioritize physical and mental well-being. This can include incorporating regular exercise, a balanced diet, hydration, and sufficient sleep. Mindfulness techniques like meditation and journaling can reduce stress. Nature’s Bounty Supplements, Available at Kroger stores & Kroger.com

New Paths to Family

Local fertility specialists can help you navigate the challenges along the way to parenthood.

Family means a lot of things, but many people’s dreams hinge on children. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), one in six people struggle with infertility globally. In the United States, the National Institute of Child Health and Human Development suggests approximately 11 percent of women and people with ovaries of childbearing age have difficulties conceiving.

This critical health issue deeply affects patients, and while many experts are alarmed by falling fertility rates, major advances and exciting new technologies are transforming more and more hopes into realities.

“Fertility is not only infertility,”

vious pregnancy complications can all lead to infertility. Gynecological issues aside, other conditions, like autoimmune disorders or diabetes, can cause problems. Tests check both partners (in the case of a heterosexual couple) to ensure healthy gametes are being produced, that they have a way to meet, and that the uterus can support a pregnancy.

“Every couple is different and brings a unique combination of cultural and religious beliefs, medical history, symptoms, goals, and treatment preferences,” says Jason Mattingly, M.D., of Mercy Health. “We try to identify all possible opportunities for treatment, propose treatment options

Third-party reproduction, where donor sperm, eggs, or embryos are used, is the key to bypassing some of those essential elements. Various forms of surrogacy also fall under this term. These have become more accessible for many patients facing reproductive obstacles, including those who don’t have both egg and sperm-producing partners, such as a gay or lesbian couple. Plenty of heterosexual couples also choose to incorporate third-party reproduction in their fertility journey.

“Female patients with early menopause or low ovarian reserve may need donor eggs or donor embryos to conceive,” says Michael Awadalla, M.D., of the Institute for Reproductive

“Fertility encompasses your goals to build your family.”

says Marja King, M.D., with the Institute for Reproductive Health. “Fertility encompasses your goals to build your family.”

While most patients are referred to a fertility specialist by their primary care doctors, some bring their concerns directly to the experts. First appointments typically involve interviews so the doctors can see the whole picture. Questions cover everything from medical history, to daily activities, to current medications, to specific concerns about fertility.

Endometriosis, past STIs, and pre-

with the various pros and cons of each, then let the couple decide on what they are comfortable with, based on their preferences and priorities.”

“The treatment we offer really depends on what the cause of infertility is,” says Emily Hurley, M.D., of UC Health. “When we talk to patients to work up an evaluation for infertility, there are a few things that are needed. We need eggs from an ovary. We need a fallopian tube for the egg to meet sperm, and we need a uterus to carry the pregnancy. Sometimes we can bypass some of these things.”

Health. “Other couples have uterine factor infertility requiring a gestational carrier.”

One of the biggest advances in the past few decades is the standardization and improvement of egg freezing. Initially, egg preservation relied on a process called slow freezing, but today doctors utilize vitrification, or flash freezing. This technique prevents water molecules from turning into ice crystals that jeopardize eggs or embryos. It’s opened new doors for patients who want families at a time that may not sync with their biological clock.

“The two factors that most accurately predict who will have the most difficult time conceiving are the age of the couple and how long they have been trying. As you may guess, younger age and shorter time trying have better odds,” Mattingly says.

In a heterosexual couple, age presents the greatest threat to the female’s side of the process. Hurley explains, “As we get older, our number of eggs and the quality of our eggs decline, and unfortunately there isn’t much we can do about that. We have the ability to offer patients egg freezing, or oocyte cryopreservation. We stimulate the ovaries to create a large number of eggs, perform a minor surgical procedure to extract those eggs, and then freeze those eggs for future use. Those eggs maintain the same chance of conceiving as they did at the age of retrieval.”

Elective egg freezing jumped by 39 percent in the past four years. This procedure is becoming more popular not only for social reasons as women pursue higher education and financial stability, but also for patients trying to preserve their fertility before under-

going specific medical therapies. Some vital treatments can compromise a patient’s fertility. Egg freezing is also an emerging practice for trans patients considering transition procedures that might affect their ability to have children in the future.

As popular as social egg freezing has become, many people hesitate over perceived risks. Fortunately, most of those risks are myths. Women and other patients with ovaries are not at risk for early menopause after the procedure. Ovaries do not have a set number of eggs that decreases with each cycle,

the ovaries into growing all the available eggs for that cycle instead. After that procedure, the ovaries return to growing new batches of eggs like they did before.

A common misconception is that patients who undergo IVF are far more likely to have twins. While there is some evidence of this in the therapy’s early development, today doctors have refined the process to a point where that is much less likely. Doctors also prefer patients carry a single, healthy baby at a time, because there’s less risk to all involved.

“It’s really important to educate patients on reproductive aging. ”

either. Ovaries create a whole batch of eggs every menstrual cycle, but only one is selected to grow to full size and release. When fertility specialists collect eggs for freezing, they essentially trick

“I think it’s really important to educate patients on reproductive aging,” Hurley says. “I see a lot of patients in their 30s and 40s, always dreaming of having a family, and never realizing

they’d have this much difficulty.”

Despite recent improvements, egg freezing may still have more to offer patients as the science behind it evolves. New techniques and therapies could be only decades away.

“Endocrinology and infertility, overall, are fairly new,” Hurley says. “Invitro fertilization started in the 1970s. Egg freezing was considered experimental until about 10 years ago. Since then, there’s been the development of pre-implantation genetic testing (PGT), and that allows us to check the embryo for genetic conditions.”

The latest development in the field is ovarian tissue cryopreservation (OTC). Hurley is particularly excited about the future growth of this technique as an element of cancer survivors’ care.

“Right now, if we take out someone’s ovary, we can’t let the eggs mature in

culture. The goal would be, in the next 30 years, if a patient has to start chemo tomorrow for a bloodborne cancer, we remove an ovary. Most doctors would not reimplant that tissue. But we could

remove that ovary and figure out how to remove and mature those eggs in culture.”

Fertility treatments don’t begin and end with scientific breakthroughs,

though. Many patients struggle to pay for cutting-edge (and costly) therapies, especially when they cannot be formally diagnosed with infertility. Insurance doesn’t always cover infertility care regardless, but without a professional diagnosis, patients must often pay out of pocket. This puts some options beyond their reach for purely financial reasons.

“Infertility coverage is similar to vision and dental insurance in that it tends to be separate from other medical care from an insurance coverage perspective,” Awadalla says. Again, however, there’s good news. The American Society for Reproductive Medicine updated the definition of infertility in 2023, targeting multiple restrictions. The new guidelines no longer rely on age and time attempting to conceive as essential metrics. Better

Need to lose weight? Want to reverse the aging process? Looking for treatment that does more than just treat the symptoms? If so, you have come to the right place. I walk the talk and lead by example. But more importantly, I can help YOU.

I’m Dr. J. Renae Norton, Clinical Psychologist, Wellness Researcher, and Published Author, specializing in:

• WEIGHT MANAGEMENT: Learn about how the food we eat affects our health and how to fuel your body for success.

• WELLNESS COACHING: Wellness is more than just your weight. Find out how a mindful lifestyle can help you.

• PSYCHOTHERAPY: I offer individual, family, couples, and group therapy for children, teens, and adults.

• PSYCHOLOGICAL TESTING: Testing and analysis are available for personality tests, ADD, ADHD, and more. Call me to schedule a complimentary consultation today at 513-205-6543. Or visit mindweightwellnesspro.com

still, they state that their definition cannot be used to deny care to patients seeking treatment.

“Cost is absolutely the biggest obstacle for our patients,” Hurley says. “We’re really hopeful this will expand access to care for patients with infertility.”

Better access means not only improved fertility care but healthier patients. A study from the Perelman School of Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania linked female infertility with higher mortality rates from both cancer and diabetes. Consulting with a reproductive endocrinologist can lead to new life. It may also help preserve an existing one.

“If you’re having irregular periods, that’s a reason to come in,” King says. “If you’re having pain with intercourse, that’s another reason to come in.”

Reawaken your natural beauty.

Simply discussing goals for a future family, concerns about aging, or addressing a family history of genetic disorders also validates an appointment.

“It is important for us to let the patient tell their story. That is part of the healing process.” Mattingly says. “We cannot guarantee that everyone will have a successful pregnancy, but we can perhaps help [them] understand what is wrong, and in the process of treating the underlying conditions, [patients] often feel better. Many continue use of luteal hormone supplementation to treat PMS or menstrual irregularity after they are no longer trying to conceive. The surgery to remove endometriosis may also reduce pain as it improves fertility.”

Infertility treatment remains a long and emotionally taxing process. However, although no existing procedures

can guarantee success, improved access and developing techniques are building more families and bringing more dreams to fruition. No two paths look exactly the same, and there’s everything to gain by having that initial conversation.

“Going through fertility treatment can be heartbreaking,” King says. “I want patients to know that they are not alone. I want them to know that infertility and pregnancy loss is not their fault or due to lack of merit or trying or grit. Infertility does not discriminate; infertility issues are more common than people realize. There are many causes and, fortunately, there are many options to help overcome these various factors. Finally, I want them to know there is always a way to build a family. It may not be in the way that they imagined, but they will get there.”

An important aspect of women’s health is confidence. Let our team of physicians at TriHealth Cosmetic Surgery & Rejuvenation Center enhance your confidence by reawakening your natural beauty or restoring your more youthful appearance. Women are natural caregivers – this summer, let us take care of you.

Discover the personalized attention you deserve with our exceptional, compassionate physicians, and unlock the self-assurance you need to let your best self shine through.

Be seen. Be heard. Be healed.SM TriHealth.com/CosmeticCenter

Services include: MyEllevate, InMode BodyTite & FaceTite, Morpheus8, Botox & Facial Fillers, Cutting Edge Surgical Procedures, and more!

Located in the TriHealth Fitness & Health Pavilion 6200 Pfeiffer Road, Suite 350 Cincinnati, OH 45242

BREHM-HEEGER AND LAROSSA DEVELoped the Social Stairs concept after he pitched several ideas and found the music theme resonating. Then Rita John and other designers at Group 4 at the time executed the concept. “We see this project as making art out of architecture,” says LaRossa. At the request of project planners, Community Content Coordinator Brian Powers—whose long career as a reference librarian has included work with the music collection and genealogy and local history programming—took on the complicated task of choosing the 1,600 recordings. He

try, and bluegrass. It was based here from 1943 to 1971 and headed by music business entrepreneur Syd Nathan, who died in 1968.

King-released entries on the stairs include Wynonie Harris’s “Sittin’ on It All the Time” from 1949, Hank Ballard’s soaring hit “Finger Poppin’ Time” (1960), comedy bluegrass wizzes Homer & Jethro’s “Five Minutes More” (1946), and James Brown’s landmark 1963 album Live at the Apollo.

But the selections overall are consistently eclectic, with an emphasis on diversity, and include far more than King titles. For example, there are the late local television personality Bob Braun’s 1962 single “Till Death Do We Part,” experimentalist John Bender’s 1980 album I Don’t Remember Now, and the 2023 album First Two Pages of Frankenstein by alternative rock band The National, whose members are Cincinnati natives. Although the musical stairway is primarily devoted to popular music, jazz

THE SOCIAL STAIRS CONTENT HIGHLIGHTS CINCINNATI

MUSIC,

REFLECTING A POPULAR ASPECT OF CINCINNATI CULTURE AND APPEALING TO A RANGE OF PATRONS.

refers to the result as “a Cincinnati jukebox.” He previously said in a presentation that “based on the number of entries and the wide scope of music genres, this is the largest public arts project dedicated to American music in Cincinnati, if not the world.”

Powers urged the architects to start the stairway with an earlier year than one they originally proposed, 1955, and include singles as well as albums. The year 1945 was offi cially selected as the beginning. “Otherwise, you’re going to miss out on a lot of history,” he says. “[Cincinnati native] Doris Day’s first song, ‘Sentimental Journey,’ was in 1945, and Rosemary Clooney’s biggest hit, ‘Come on-a My House,’ was in the early 1950s.”

Among the musicians and songs represented are quite a few from King Records, the Cincinnati record company devoted to roots music genres like R&B, blues, coun-

and classical are also represented, including the 1970 album New World A’Coming from Duke Ellington and the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra.

For Powers, the Social Stairs have been a dream assignment. “One of the reasons I started working at the library was I loved the CD collection,” he says. “This library has a lot of local music in its collection. That’s what led me into the main library, and eventually I got a job there. That’s how I learned the local music history.” Powers used 29 consultants to suggest songs and albums, including Nick Clooney (Rosemary’s brother), record company executive Seymour Stein (now deceased), photographer and music promoter C. Smith, former WCIN-AM reporter and author Gina Ruffin Moore, and local music historian and author Randy McNutt. (Full disclosure: I am listed as a consultant, but neither Powers nor I can recall a single title I suggested.)

THERE IS A REASON THE SOCIAL STAIRS content highlights Cincinnati music as opposed to, say, the library’s own history. LaRossa says he was looking for a topic that reflected a popular aspect of local culture and appealed to both younger people and established patrons. The library system has plenty of physical records and musicrelated books for further study, he says. In fact, Powers notes that Cincinnati was one of the first libraries to allow sound recordings to be checked out by the public.

The project can also be seen as riding a hot trend, following other artistic projects related to Cincinnati music history in recent years. A partial list would include:

• ArtWorks public murals featuring James Brown, who recorded for King Records; the Isley Brothers; early blues singer Mamie Smith; and Rosemary Clooney (now blocked from view).

• An 18,000-square-foot downtown mural devoted to 10 past and present Cincinnati musicians by artist Tristan Eaton, commissioned by the BLINK festival in 2022.

• The Black Music Walk of Fame at The Banks, dedicated in 2023 and championed by Hamilton County Commissioner Alicia Reece, with 15 inductees so far.

• In 2019, Shake It Records in Northside created a set of 36 full-color Cincinnati Musical Legend Trading Cards, with assistance from ArtWorks. The late Justin Green, a Cincinnati sign painter and autobiographical comics creator, produced the card art, while local artist Joe Walsh was project manager.

• With King Records Legacy Foundation support, two Cincinnati venues have installed King-related murals: The greenroom at Newport’s MegaCorp Pavilion contains one portraying King artists Bootsy Collins, Otis Williams, and the late Philip Paul; and the Hard Rock Casino has one featuring Collins along with Rosemary Clooney and the Isley Brothers.

“I think interest in music history began to grow in the 2000s with the popularity of Record Store Day, which promoted vinyl records and got collectors interested in defunct labels like King,” says Powers. “That was also a time when you could hear older records on YouTube and learn more about them online. I was doing programs on local music history at the library, and Lee Hay was doing similar programs on WVXU radio.

That interest has now crossed over from collectors to a wider audience, and so you’re seeing more of these art projects.”

There were all sorts of ideas being discussed about how to make the actual music memorialized on the stairway railings available so visitors can hear it—from ensuring the library has recordings of everything listed to offering various forms of interactive delivery like QR codes. The library has decided on a selective playlist that they’ll continue adding to over time, says Brehm-Heeger.

LaRossa has a novel idea to make the music accessible for his own use, at least. “I want a personal Spotify playlist of the stairs,” he jokes.

LIBRARY ADMINISTRATION AND BOARD

members decided to invest $43 million in its downtown home after Hamilton County voters approved a new 10-year, 1-mill operating levy in 2018. There had already been a separate 10-year, 1-mill property tax levy in effect since 2013, so approval of this additional tax signaled that the public saw a need for more funding for the library and its 40 neighborhood branches. Then, in 2023, voters not only renewed the 2013 levy for another 10 years but increased the rate to 1.5 mill. (A mill is $1 of tax for every $1,000 of assessed value, which is 35 percent of a house’s appraised value. So if your house is appraised by the county at $500,000, you pay $175 in annual property tax for the 2018 operating levy and $262.50 for the 2023 levy renewal.)

Brehm-Heeger was brimming with ideas after the 2018 levy passage. She became the library’s Eva Jane Romaine Coombe Director that year after serving as chief strategy and technology officer, and a 2010 article she cowrote about Cincinnati for Public Libraries magazine,“Remaking One of the Nation’s Busiest Main Libraries,” had won first place (and $500) in the National Libraries Association’s contest for best feature articles. Group 4 was hired to undertake a Facility Master Plan, working closely with her, and the plan was released in 2019.

The Main Library actually consists of three separate buildings as well as several outdoor gathering sites, and some of them had become problematic. Today’s complex grew from the Woodie Garber–designed Modernist marvel that opened in 1955,

which replaced the revered 1874 library a little south on Vine Street. Its demolition has been bemoaned ever since, but Garber’s own beautiful building has held up well, with such features as decorative Venetian glass tiles, pleasing use of windows and reddish brick, a third-floor meeting room adjacent to a terrace, and a surprisingly secluded first floor reading garden that’s one of downtown’s more peaceful and lovely small public spaces.

An addition opened in 1982, and it and the 1955 structure together became referred to as the south building, with total square footage of 380,000. The north building opened just across Ninth Street in 1990, with a skywalk-like bridge installed to get patrons, staff, and books from one building to the other. That made the overall main library 540,000 square feet, thus becoming one of the country’s largest, LaRossa says.

In time, problems emerged with how the 1982 addition used space, BrehmHeeger explains. It also lost an important functional area when the catalogue cards were removed. “I think we’ve always struggled,” she says. “If you used to come to the building and didn’t know how it worked, it wasn’t entirely clear what was going on. The south building suffered from what a lot of libraries from that era suffer from—a feeling that there are individual buildings on top of each other and not a huge understanding of vertical circulation and how the library works. So the idea was we would try to encourage people at their own pace to go through the whole library.”

The plaza outside of the south building’s main entrance on Vine Street had a raised brick terrace that interfered with clear vision of and access to the inside, and there were problems with people who gathered outside. The Facility Master Plan’s executive summary offers some pretty blunt appraisals of those deficiencies from staff and community meetings and listening sessions. The report called the plaza a “major design problem with frequent customer complaints and calls to law enforcement” and said what was needed was something “safer, more welcoming, and family friendly.”

The project’s Vine Street Plaza redesign has brought the entire space to one level and removed several indoor flights of stairs to open the lobby to more visibility from the

street. “It makes people feel safer if everybody sees everything,” says Brehm-Heeger. “So when you look inside from our plaza now, you can see an awful lot.”

Other improvements include a reimagined outdoor plaza at the north building, which also has a new roof, the new skylight over the Social Stairs, and a complete energy refit throughout. The children’s section is moving across Ninth Street to the south building.

Better integrating the newer building into the downtown campus has been a priority since public backlash halted a proposal by the library board to move departments out of the building and seek 3CDC’s help in finding a new use or new owner. Trustees changed their mind and in 2018 won voter approval for the critical new tax levy that kickstarted this renovation work.

AT THE CONCLUSION OF MY VIDEO

INterview with Brehm-Heeger and the architects, she brings up a different perspective of the main library improvements. The project isn’t just about the library’s future, she says, but about downtown’s future in this post-COVID era in which no one can rely on the way things once were—when busy offices and their commuting workers would keep city streets, businesses, and public institutions busy. Getting back to that activity level, or adding something new that attracts visitors, is a key goal for leaders across Cincinnati.

“Any public area that can bring more people in is a better, more vibrant public area,” says Brehm-Heeger.“So trying to bring more people here and trying to get them to think about downtown as totally different is kind of what’s happening all around us.”

She mentions Court Street’s redesign and new attractions just a block north. “We want more activities of a varied nature downtown,” she says. “The more activity you have and the more dynamic the space, the less you have that kind of quiet ghost town feeling. I do think that’s a shared vision for everyone downtown. We’re hoping that the library is part of it, that we light a fire to come down and visit this area.”

So can the main library’s updating—and its showcase Social Stairs—now be called a post-COVID project? “One hundred percent,” she says.

for the homeless, as well as community programs focused on mental health, job training, and GED courses. In a separate Enquirer essay from 2019, Brad Wenstrup, the U.S. Representative for Ohio’s 2nd District, echoed Ottney’s message: “For every negative statistic and damaging headline, there are stories of dedicated Portsmouth citizens pouring their hearts and souls into making a positive difference in their city.”

In May 2019, community members in Portsmouth held a pep-rally-style press conference at the city’s riverfront to call attention to various projects taking place

in and around the city. On hand were the mayor, the county commissioner, the president of Shawnee State University, and a squad of pom-pom-waving cheerleaders. Among the developments mentioned were a new series of mountainbiking trails in the nearby hills, the return of powerboat racing to a local stretch of the Ohio River, and plans to build a new hotel downtown, which would mark the first multi-story construction project in the neighborhood in decades.

The momentum continued the following year, when the National Civic League named Portsmouth one of its 10 “AllAmerica Cities” for 2020. The distinction, bestowed by the Colorado-based nonprofit to cities and towns annually since the late 1940s, carried no formal reward. But it did offer a morale boost, and, as the league noted, recently named All-America Cities often saw a surge in tourism and interest from businesses and prospective residents.

In its application, Portsmouth had

mentioned that, at one point, there were as many as 11 rogue pain clinics in Scioto County that “operated almost exclusively to push opioid painkillers on people who were not aware of how addictive such medication could be.” Over time, the application said, “routine and repetitive” negative press coverage had helped to cement the town’s reputation as one of the nation’s worst-hit places of the opiate epidemic.

The application argued that an AllAmerica City distinction would help to change the city’s image. And it would fit nicely alongside the city’s beautification and restoration initiatives.

IN LATE OCTOBER 2022, I MADE ONE last reporting trip to Portsmouth. It marked my 10th time visiting the city, though it was my first time back since shortly after Volkman’s sentencing in February 2012. Due to a fortunate bit of timing, I happened to arrive during a photogenic week in mid-autumn, when the hills surrounding

Cataract Falls

the city were splashed with vibrant yellows, oranges, and reds.

At first glance, the city itself didn’t look much different from previous visits. I saw plenty of empty storefronts, hollowedout houses, and abandoned buildings with boarded-up windows. But on closer inspection, there were in fact several new sights. On the drive downtown, I passed a new, three-story, $10 million facility recently built by the local hospital, Southern Ohio Medical Center. Not far away was an upscale coff ee shop called Lofts Coffee Company & Roastery and a gastropub called Patties & Pints. Next to city hall was a new dog park; on the other side of town, the city had built a skate park with the help of funding from the foundation of legendary skateboarder Tony Hawk.

Meanwhile, downtown, new banners hung from lamp poles touting notable people who once lived in the area. One was dedicated to Theodore Wilburn Jr., a Navy veteran who was the city’s first Black

police chief in the early 1960s. Another featured the teacher and abolitionist Betsy Mix Cowles, who had served as the president of the first Ohio Women’s Convention in 1850.

The city wasn’t transformed, by any means. But it did seem to be moving in a good direction.

In late 2022, Scioto County was still one of the poorest counties in Ohio, with higher poverty and unemployment rates than the state and country. And it remained the lowest-ranked county in the state for health indicators like length of life and quality of life.

Opiate-related problems persisted. Between 2015 and 2020, Scioto County was, by far, the Ohio county with the highest rate of unintentional drug overdose deaths. In 2019, the county recorded 79 overdose deaths, which meant that, on average, the epidemic was still claiming at least one life per week. These totals long surpassed the numbers that had prompted County

Health Commissioner Aaron Adams to declare a state of emergency in 2010. But here, as in many places around the country, the state of emergency had simply become the status quo.

At the same time, though, rehab facilities had proliferated. The list of Portsmouth-based treatment centers now included Shawnee Counseling Center, BrightView, HopeSource, Sunrise Treatment Center, and ASCEND Counseling and Recovery Services. Rehab or residential facilities had also popped up in the nearby towns of West Portsmouth, Franklin Furnace, and Wheelersburg.

One of these organizations, Pinnacle Treatment Centers, made news when it purchased the sprawling South Shore, Kentucky, mansion that had once belonged to the region’s pill mill “godfather,” David Procter, M.D. After renovation, the house was repurposed as a 32-bed residential facility. When the center opened in 2016, The Enquirer announced: “Karma: Pill Mill

PORTSMOUTH GETS CLEAN

Doc’s Home Gets New Use.” The report noted that, while Procter had pleaded guilty to illegal distribution of pills in 2003 and served 11 years in federal prison, “his former home on 37 acres, complete with pool and 10-acre lake set against the rolling hills of Appalachia, will now help addicts get sober and stay clean.”

The largest of all these local rehab facilities was The Counseling Center, which had expanded dramatically in recent years. I had interviewed its CEO Ed Hughes during one of my first visits to town in 2010, and he’d told me that the local rehab system couldn’t keep up with the demand for services.

But in 2022, the center had a zerowaitlist, zero-wait-time policy for most of its programs. It was serving between 600 and 700 people at a given time, and around 3,000 clients per year. The facility boasted more beds than the largest local hospital, and it offered an array of services, including a 24-hour crisis hotline, an opiate-withdrawal treatment program,

previously been viewed as a beacon of despair will now grow to be a beacon of hope for the neighborhood, the city, the region, and beyond.”

I SPENT SOME OF THIS TRIP GOING about now-familiar routines. I drove past Volkman’s house on Center Street and the now-empty former clinic on Findlay Street. I visited the public library’s local history room to comb through a thick manila folder of news clippings labeled “Drug Busts – Scioto County” one last time. And one morning I drove to the city health department for a final interview with Lisa Roberts.

Roberts was the person I had spoken with most frequently during my trips to Portsmouth. In the years since we first met, as Portsmouth’s profile rose, I had watched her become a kind of minor celebrity. She had appeared on national television, testified before Congress, and traveled to conferences near and far—in Michigan, South Carolina, Puerto Rico, Las Vegas—to tell

A DRUG TREATMENT CLINIC HAS ANNOUNCED PLANS TO REHAB A LONG-ABANDONED PORTSMOUTH SHOE FACTORY INTO A RECOVERY HUB AS “A BEACON OF HOPE.”

a program through which mothers could receive treatment without being separated from their children, and a career-oriented “Success Center” that offered classes on money management and workplace etiquette. “We are the Cleveland Clinic of treatment agencies,” Hughes told me. “People come from everywhere to get to us for treatment, because we offer things that nobody else offers.”

In 2021, the center announced plans to move most of its operations into a former shoe factory on the city’s East End. The long-abandoned building would be refurbished and repurposed as a state-ofthe-art recovery hub that, overall, would allow the center to add 100 new jobs and dramatically increase its treatment capacity. A video about the project called it “the largest redevelopment project in southern Ohio in a lifetime.” The Counseling Center’s CEO said in a press release, “What has

the story of what had happened in Scioto County. But in conversation, she was still the same person: earnest, easygoing, generous with her time, and surprisingly cheery for someone who had spent years on the front lines of an overdose epidemic.

Roberts, who retired a few months after this final interview, told me that the region had seen some improvement in the decade after Volkman’s sentencing. Thanks to new laws on the city and state level and a concerted campaign of law enforcement, the local pain clinics had all permanently closed. The region also now offered what she described as “the full spectrum” of rehab and recovery services.

But the city’s problems were by no means solved. There was still a lot of addiction in Scioto County, she explained, and the lethality of the drugs in circulation had gotten worse. Most recently, the region had, like many others around the country,

been flooded with the hyper-potent opioid painkiller fentanyl, which had caused local overdose rates to soar even higher. “These people die really fast, like within minutes,” she said. “It’s not like back when we had the opioid pain pills and they tended to be a little bit alive when paramedics got there.”

Roberts was still incredulous that the opiate crisis had gone under-addressed for so long. She said that if thousands of people had been dying in motorcycle wrecks or skydiving accidents, there would have been a major outcry. She felt the muted response had to do at least in part with the fact that the crisis was initially limited to Appalachia. For whatever reason, decision makers in state and national seats of power weren’t as concerned about the people who lived there.

She was also still angry about how the crisis had originated: from pharmaceutical companies, doctors, and others in the medical field. Healthcare isn’t supposed to harm or addict or kill you, she said, but that’s what happened in Scioto County. “That’s what made me the maddest,” she said.

One morning, toward the end of my visit, I drove to the Scioto County Welcome Center. It’s located downtown in a low brick building next to the floodwall murals. Inside, near a large banquet hall that hosts regular bingo games, are offices for the Portsmouth & Scioto County Visitors Bureau and the Portsmouth Area Chamber of Commerce.

When I entered the building, I passed through a hallway lined with glass display cases featuring Portsmouth-themed miniexhibits. One case was dedicated to Portsmouth’s bygone shoe industry. Another featured VHS tapes of Roy Rogers films, a smattering of Rogers-themed memorabilia (books, mugs, lunchboxes, a wristwatch), and a framed photograph with a handwritten message from Roy that reads “Happy Trails to all the folks in Portsmouth, Ohio.”

I visited the center because I wanted to buy some souvenirs at the gift shop. (And I did, indeed, walk away with a Roy Rogers mug.) But I also wanted to see if Lisa Carver was still working.

Carver had been executive director of the Portsmouth Area Chamber of Commerce during my first trip in 2010. During my interview with her then, when I asked

if there was a problem with prescription drugs in the area, she quickly replied that there was.

Pain clinics were a local nuisance, she had said. “I mean, what doctor has people lined up outside their doors?”

As it turned out, in late 2022, Carver was still in the same job, and she agreed to an impromptu interview on the morning I visited.

Carver, like so many people in Scioto County, had a personal connection to the opiate epidemic. She had adopted and spent years raising the daughter of a cousin due to that cousin’s struggles with addiction and accompanying legal troubles. And in 2001, her husband died from an overdose of pain medication prescribed by his family practitioner.

During our interview, she acknowledged that Portsmouth had faced its share of suffering. After most local manufacturing dried up or moved away, the pain clinics had made a bad situation worse. That, in turn, had made it hard to recruit good doctors to the area. Due to Portsmouth’s bad press, Shawnee State University had faced hurdles when attracting students.

But these days she was feeling genuinely optimistic. Carver mentioned some thriving smaller-scale industries in the region, including a shoelace manufacturer and a plastics-recycling facility. And she reported that the town was seeing a surge in historic preservation.

She also pointed to the natural beauty of the place, which she saw every morning as she drove from her home in Kentucky across the river into Portsmouth. By this time I, too, was familiar with this view: a panorama of buildings and church spires set against a backdrop of gently sloping green hills.

She was feeling better about Portsmouth than she had in years. They had faced some hard knocks, Carver said, “but we knew we were more than that.”

Lace up for a bouncy ride in our all-new daily trainer enhanced with premium foam.

Excerpted from Prescription for Pain: How a Once-Promising Doctor Became the “Pill Mill Killer,” published by Steerforth Press in April. Copyright 2024 by Philip Eil. Reprinted with permission.

s ’more more Let ’s

BREAKFAST BUDDIES

The bacon and eggs at Sugar n’ Spice are a classic combo for your morning or brunch needs.

SMALL PLATES IN WALNUT HILLS P. 76

BREAKFAST SPOT REVAMP P. 78

THC-INFUSED SODAS P. 79

KOREAN CORN DOGS P. 80

PICTURE PERFECT

The Aperture strikes a delicate balance between funky and refined. —BRANDON WUSKE

CHEF JORDAN ANTHONY-BROWN HAS WORKED IN SOME HIGHLY ACCLAIMED LOCAL AND national kitchens, including Boca, Sotto, and the Michelin-starred Rose’s Luxury in Washington, D.C. The Aperture, which he opened in Walnut Hills at the beginning of the year, sees him at the top of his game.

Mediterranean food is the impetus here, but the menu isn’t limited to that region. Japanese and French techniques make appearances, which reflects Anthony-Brown’s years of experience with cross-cultural cooking. White miso, for instance, finds its way into spaghetti. Hamachi tartare kicks off a diverse small plates list that features dishes like herbed falafel and a beet and ricotta salad. Here, culinary fusion achieves its ideal result: a burst of energy. As with the delicate balance at work in each dish, the restaurant strives for an overall aesthetic harmony—between fine dining and comfort food, between neighborhood eatery and destination restaurant.

The Aperture successfully walks the line it has drawn for itself, in part because it’s so welcoming. You feel equally at home ordering a glass of wine and a quick bite or sitting down for a multi-course meal. Service is focused but friendly, intentional but not pretentious. The food is priced to fit this niche—everything is under $40 and the portions are just on the cusp of generous.

Seasonality and local sourcing are central to The Aperture’s approach, a commitment to the ethos of Mediterranean cooking, which often relies on produce plucked from the backyard. The restaurant sources its lamb shoulder from Kentucky’s Freedom Run Farm and its produce from places like Dark Wood Farm (also in Kentucky) and New Richmond’s Fox Tail Farm.

FYI

The Aperture 900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 8721970, theaperturecinci.com

Hours

Dinner Tues–Sat 5–10 p.m.

Prices

$14 (Hummus Tehina)–$38 (Lamb Shoulder)

Credit Cards

All major

The Takeaway Trailblazing Mediterranean-inspired cooking in a historic Walnut Hills space.

The Aperture occupies a rounded corner of the almost century-old Art Deco Paramount Building in Walnut Hills. It’s a decidedly minimalist space, with mod tables, tile floors, and Assistant General Manager and Creative Director Trevor Biggs’s black-and-white photos on the walls. The restaurant’s focal point is the semi-open kitchen. Aside from the occasional roar from the open-flame grill, it’s a surprisingly serene, focused work space, with Anthony-Brown quietly overseeing the action.

The flame-kissed “urban sourdough” was among my favorite dishes to come off the grill. It was served with a honeyed chicken liver mousse that had the silky texture of hummus. The honey’s hints of berbere—a spice mix ubiquitous in Ethiopian cooking—reflect Chef Anthony-Brown’s globe-trotting style. The lightly spiced honey all but eliminated the metallic aftertaste that mars most pâtés.

That decadent starter was followed by the fried mushrooms, an appetizer that leans heavily into the restaurant’s Mediterranean influences. Served over labneh (a sour, strained yogurt originating in the Levant) and seasoned with Yemeni hot sauce, the well-breaded mushrooms resemble fiery fried chicken. For another roundabout reference to American comfort food, our server described the pommes darphin (a French potato pancake, served here with parsnip, smoked whey, pickled mustard seeds, and marinated leek) as “the best hashbrown you’ve ever had.” He was right.

The charred carrot continues to be worth highlighting. The sweet/savory grilled carrot and crumbled lamb merguez sausage gets hit with what seems like an entire Mediterranean spice rack: ras el hanout (Arabic for “top of the shelf,” it’s a spice mix featuring cumin,

cinnamon, ginger, and turmeric, among many others); dukkah (an Egyptian spice blend heavy on toasted nuts and sesame seeds); and zhug (a spicy Yemeni hot sauce, bright green from cilantro and parsley). Despite the many ingredients, no flavor overpowers the others. I could easily see this becoming The Aperture’s signature dish.

Seafood, as Anthony-Brown informed me, will always play an important part in his menu, primarily because it’s become a substantial part of his diet as he’s gotten older. As with so many dishes here, there are several culinary influences at work in the cod. It’s spiced with a curry called vadouvan (also known as “French curry,” because it originated in a region of India with a high concentration of French immigrants), moistened with a blend of chicken juice and Lyonnaise fortified wine (banyuls), and enriched with good ol’ schmaltz. The result is a rich but piquant fish that’s as clean as it is flavorful.

I washed all this down with a tart, apple-scented Pascal Janvier chenin blanc, while my dining companion opted for a cocktail called “I’m Her,” a mix of bourbon, pomegranate, bitters, and vermouth. The Aperture’s drink menu matches its breezy vibes and focused technique.

So does the dessert menu, which offered three strikingly different desserts (a key lime pie, an almond cake, and a very French profiterole); a dessert cocktail; and a dessert mocktail. We went with the almond cake, a moist, slightly salty cake accented with mint, Amarena cherry, and amaretto cream. It was a balanced end to an equally balanced meal.

The restaurant’s name, by the way, is a nod to Anthony-Brown’s other passion—photography. The aperture is the opening of a camera lens, the part that allows light to pass through, making a picture possible. Light, with all its connotations of clarity and inspiration, is the guiding metaphor for Anthony-Brown and his cooking, which might account for all the brilliance on display.

MEDI DELIGHTS (From left)

The Aperture’s main dining area is light and airy; start your meal with hummus Tehina or whipped feta served with wood-grilled pita; the hamachi tartare features serrano, cucumber, tempura, and a fermented strawberry; Chef/Owner Jordan Anthony-Brown.

Fresh Paint, Classic Bites

WITH RENOVATIONS TO ADD ACCESSIBLE RESTROOMS AND A CARRY-OUT WINDOW, and almost double the amount of seating, the original Sugar n’ Spice is now twice as nice.

The diner’s interior feels like an old-fashioned cartoon, popping with bright colors and capped by a yellow ceiling. The menu is half breakfast favorites and half classic sandwich plates, ranging from breakfast burritos to steak or chicken Phillys.

Even if you prefer a sandwich to eggs and home fries, get some pancakes for dessert. The Wispy Thin Pancakes (available in original, blueberry, and chocolate chip) live up to their reputation. Sugar n’ Spice makes all the secret-recipe pancakes from scratch, and these signature bites are the heart of the restaurant. Soft with the faintest bit of crispy lace at the edges, the light, fluffy batter creates just the right texture for soaking up butter and syrup, and each fork-full melts in your mouth. They won’t leave you hungry, though they will have you craving more.

A great meal isn’t made of carbs alone, and the breakfast special (two Wispy Thin Pancakes, two eggs, and your choice of sausage, bacon, or goetta) is a great way to tour the menu.

Be sure to ask your server for a rubber duck! Every guest gets a pal as a final thanks from one of the friendliest restaurants in town.

—M.LEIGHHOOD

STEPHANIE LINDSAY

THE FOUNDER OF ZEST CINCY gives us her two cents on the local restaurant/bar scene.

How would you describe Zest Cincy? Zest Cincy is a design-focused influencer and creative agency that highlights the hottest local restaurants as well as unique food and beverage brands.

How did you come up with the concept? I’ve always loved eating and drinking, and have always been in the know on the best spots in town, so I decided to turn that passion into an Instagram page in 2018. It started as a happy hour resource, but quickly pivoted after COVID, and has evolved over the years.

Why is a service like this important? Local influencers help bridge the gap between businesses and their local audiences. Zest offers tangible creative assets such as professional photography to businesses, which removes a task off their busy schedules, leaving it in the hands of experts.

How do you think good promotional photos/materials help businesses succeed? Consistent, professional imagery helps elevate your brand, connects you to your audience in a more meaningful way, and creates a positive first impression. In many cases, the first interaction a potential customer has with a business is through its photos on a website or social media. – AIESHA D LITTLE

Sugar n’ Spice, 4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills, (513) 242-3521, eatsugarnspice.com

zestcincy.com

Read a longer interview with Stephanie at cincinnatimagazine.com

Fizzy Fusion

Urban Artifact’s new THC-infused sodas allow consumers to “just coast.” —AIESHA D. LITTLE

VER THE LAST NINE YEARS, URBAN ARTIFACT HAS CARVED a niche for itself by making sour fruit beers and even a line of high-end fruit wines. So what’s next for the quirky Northside brewery? After doing some research, it’s made the leap into the THC-infused soda market. Under the tagline “Just Coast,” Coastalo is brewed with real fruit and infused with hemp-derived delta-9 THC, which makes it legal for restaurants without liquor licenses to serve, and for adults (21 and up) to consume anywhere canned beverages are permitted.

Scott Hand, Urban Artifact’s cofounder and chief brand officer, sees Coastalo as a complement to the brewery’s fruit tart and nonalcoholic fruit tart lines. “The effects of a THC drink also occur quicker than ingesting edibles,” he adds. A drink “can be sipped over a period of time, which can help folks new to the concept manage their experiences very easily.”

Coastalo beverages—available in grape soda, cherry cola, and red cream soda—can be found at select retailers in Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana as well as in the Urban Artifact taproom.

Coastalo, coastalo.com

DOGGONE GOOD

orn dogs are a classic American junk food, enjoyed by many a sports fan and fair attendee since it was brought to the U.S. by German immigrants in the 1920s. But when is a corn dog more than a corn dog? When it’s done with a Korean flair. At Decibel Korean Fried Chicken, the franks are 100 percent Angus beef, coated in a batter made with chopped up French fries before being fried— twice. Drizzled with gochujang BBQ sauce and the restaurant’s signature fly sauce, they’re finished with green onion and furikake (a Japanese seafood seasoning). It’s tangy street food straight from the Seoul . —AIESHA D.

LITTLE

CRITIC’S PICKS

IVORY HOUSE

Top 10

The menu here generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish flavors, but simply pays attention to enough little things to make the results unusually good. The Wagyu is served in cheeseburger form, but the exceptional tomme from Urban Stead gives it that extra something. The cocktails are things you’ve probably seen before, but everything— from the Death Valley Old Fashioned to the Queen City’s Bees Knees—had an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like a rhubarb honey syrup or the raspberry shrub. Even when an ingredient seems out of left field, like the burnt grapefruit hot sauce on the Hamachi, it never tastes as unusual as it sounds. The hot sauce is just a hint of sweet citrusy spice that melts into the grits—a softly intriguing element rather than a slap in the face.

2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 389-0175, ivoryhousecincy.com. Dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$$

ORIENTAL WOK

When Mike and Helen Wong opened Oriental Wok in 1977, the couple wanted to recreate the glamor and refinement of the Hong Kong-Cantonese cuisine they knew. Today, locals and expats alike enjoy authentic Chinese and Chinese-American dishes in dining rooms reminiscent of Beijing. Beyond the elephant tusk entryway and fish ponds and fountains is the warmth and hospitality of the Wong family, service on par with the finest establishments, and very, very good food. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, grouper and sea bass steamed, grilled or fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger-green onion sauce that accompanies them. Oriental Wok is the tri-state’s longest-running family-owned Chinese restaurant for a reason.

317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok.com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde

DINING GUIDE

CINCINNATI

MAGAZINE’S

dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit.

To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

SIP HAPPENS

Safi, a Moroccaninspired wine bar, recently opened in the former Salazar space in Over-theRhine. The new concept came after owner Jose Salazar and his wife, Ann, traveled to Morocco last year (the bar’s name is Arabic for “enough”). The menu features Moroccan-focused small plates and a wine list leaning toward mostly Mediterranean wines. safiwinebar.com

UNCLE YIP’S

Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 160 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs.

10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$

Top 10

ABIGAIL STREET

Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. Offerings like the woodgrilled lamb, with apricot, harissa, and pickled Persian cucumbers, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior. The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential. 1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

ALCOVE

Alcove lives up to its name, the embodiment of a green oasis at the corner of Vine and 14th streets. A lot of care goes into the space’s bright, floral design—it features more than 300 square feet of plant-covered “living walls,” which are pruned by their creator, Urban Blooms, on a weekly basis. Equal care and attention went goes into Alcove’s the seasonal farm-to-table menu. It’s an uncomplicated affair

featuring exceptional-but-approachable dishes. As one might expect from a restaurant where plants cover most of the walls, vegetables are done very well here. The simple, clean pear and fennel salad stands out as does a dish of roasted carrots served with oil and breadcrumbs. Like the produce, much of the meat is sourced from local and regional farms (for instance, the “Denver Cut” of steak— a lean cut, taken from the shoulder— comes from Sakura Farms in nearby Westerville, Ohio). Among other local vendors, Rich Life Farms, Urban Stead Cheese, and Eli Settler (a.k.a. “Eli the Farmer”) all contribute to Alcove’s menu. This is a restaurant that takes sustainability seriously, and sustainability has a funny way of going hand-inhand with quality.

1410 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 371-5700, madtree.com/locations/alcove-bar-restaurant. Brunch Fri–Sun, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THE APERTURE

After several pandemic-related setbacks, Chef/Owner Jordan Anthony-Brown opened his Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in Walnut Hills’s historic Paramount Square Building. And it was worth the wait. The restaurant’s seasonal menu draws on flavors from across the Mediterranean with subtle touches, like cultured butter and a smoky za’atar seasoning. The sublime charred carrots are served with Middle Eastern spice blends like dukkah and ras el hanout as well as mint and crumbles of lamb merguez sausage. Brined, poached, and cooked over coals, the carrots themselves eat like a tender smoked sausage. It’s a dish that perfectly encapsulates The Aperture’s commitment to serving substantial versions of traditionally lighter fare. For a restaurant so serious about food—and exceptional wines—it’s refreshing to see it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The original cocktails have offbeat names like #lemon and I’m Her, and the catchy playlist is heavy on old-school hip-hop. At heart, The Aperture is a neighborhood restaurant, albeit one that’s bound to bring people in from all over. 900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 8721970, theaperturecinci.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

ATWOOD OYSTER HOUSE

While Atwood has done an excellent

Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$

ICON BY SOPHIE KALLIS

job of working closely with coastal purveyors to curate a focused but eclectic selection of oysters, the rest of its menu consists of southern coastal cuisine prepared with rigorous French technique. The wild-caught fish is as fresh and deliberately sourced as the eponymous oysters, a soft, nutty, perfectly blackened grouper perched atop a creamy parsnip pureée. The modern, clean-lined space, adorned with busts and oil paintings (curated with the help of neighborhood artist Alex Frank) matches the elegant food. It’s stately without being stuffy; it somehow feels both timeless and hip. Like everything else at Atwood, it’s the result of a delicate, highly successful balancing act.

1220 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4256, atwoodoysterhouse.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

Top 10

BOCA

With its grand staircase, chandelier, and floorto-ceiling draperies, Boca has an atmosphere of grandeur and refinement. There is a sense of drama not only in the decor but in everything it serves. In some dishes, there is a painterly sense of contrast and surprise, like the maple tuile served with the maple mascarpone cheesecake. In others, there is a dramatic suspense, like the whole egg yolk quivering in the center of the beef tartare waiting to be broken. While staying mostly grounded in the fundamentals of Italian and French cuisine, Boca has an air of international sophistication that sets its food apart. The hamachi crudo, an old standby on the menu, takes Japanese flavors and gives them new dimensions with grapefruit suprêmes and slivers of shishito pepper. This is food of extraordinary creativity and flair.

114 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati. com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

Top 10 BOUQUET RESTAURANT

Normally diners aren’t pleased when a restaurant runs out of something. At Bouquet, though, surprise changes to the menu are simply a sign of integrity. Chef-owner Stephen Williams is serious about using seasonal ingredients, and if the figs have run out or there is no more chicken from a local farm, so be it. The flavors at Bouquet are about doing justice to what’s available. Preparations are unfussy, complexity coming from within the vegetables and proteins themselves. A spring salad—wonderfully fresh and vibrant, so you know the strawberries included have just come off a nearby vine—is dressed with candy-striped beets, jerk-seasoned pepitas and whipped goat cheese. This determination to make something delicious out of what’s on hand, to embrace limitations, gives the food at Bouquet a rustic, soulful quality.

519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetbistro. com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

FIVE ON VINE

The fifth venture from Anthony Sitek and wife Haley Nutter-Sitek’s Crown Restaurant Group, Five on Vine achieves excitement through comfort food with meticulous attention to detail: the meat is butchered in-house, the bread and pasta are made from scratch, and the bacon is house-cured. House-butchered beef and house-made pasta come together beautifully in the pappardelle stroganoff, served with chunks of short rib that are as tender as the noodles themselves. Thick, cleanly acidic fried green tomatoes make an appearance, as does a bountiful cioppino, a tomato-based seafood stew created by Italian American fisherman in San Francisco. Some of the dishes are pulled straight from Sitek’s own childhood, in New Jersey. “Gracie’s Meatballs,” named in honor of his grandmother, use her unique blend of raisins and pine nuts. A love letter to the long-beloved dishes, the menu is an extended rebuttal against the tired argument that American food is bland and boring.

1324 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4301, fiveonvine. com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN

At Maplewood, you order at the counter, then find a table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected. There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chicken tinga, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with the satisfying Maplewood hash with goetta and local mushrooms. Brunch is available all day so try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the avocado benedict.

525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100,

maplewoodkitchenandbar.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $$

MELT REVIVAL

In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and The Gobbler, turkey burger served with curried aioli, red cabbage slaw, pickled red onions, and arugula. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken flatbread: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try a half-sandwich with a half-salad or half-soup order—a popular selection with the lunch crowd.

4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 818-8951, meltrevival.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues—Sat, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $

METROPOLE

Metropole has been remarkably stable since it opened in 2012. Even when chefs have left, the organization has promoted from within, kept popular dishes on the menu, and maintained a certain vibe, a balance between sophistication and rustic-ity. Its vegetarian fare contains many of its most inventive and delightful creations. The seared salmon is served with miso wild rice, asparagus, pickled bok choy, and sesame seeds. The blistered shishitos, served with burrata and preserved lemon, encapsulates Metropole at its best: fun and whimsical, but rooted in careful execution of deep and satisfying flavors.

609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com. Breakfast Wed–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$

Top 10

MITA’S

It’s fitting that chef Jose Salazar named this restaurant after his grandmother, because there is something deeply homey about the food at Mita’s. With a focus on Spanish and Latin-American tapas, it always feels, in the best possible way, like elevated home cooking. Its sophistication is modestly concealed. The flavors are bold and direct, whether the spicy freshness of the ceviche de camarones with passionfruit leche de tigre or the intensely bright sourness of the pozole verde. In dishes like the alcachofas y hongos, the chef hits every register: the acid of red espelette peppers to balance the earthy ramp-garlic hummus, the crunchy pistachios against the soft sautéed mushrooms and artichoke hearts. But what mainly comes through is the warm-hearted affection a grandmother might have put into a meal for a beloved grandson. It’s the kind of big hug everyone needs from time to time.

501 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-6482, mitas.co. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

NOLIA

Chef/Owner Jeffery Harris, a New Orleans native, prepares the cuisine of his beloved city with sophistication and flair, drawing on all the influences that have contributed to the cuisine of the Big Easy—from West African to French to Japanese to Haitian. The menu changes seasonally, with almost a complete overhaul each time. If classic New Orleans dishes do show up on the menu, they’re likely to get delightfully unexpected touches. Take the duck and oyster gumbo. Harris deconstructs the typical stew, building on a base of popcorn rice, instead of the more typical long grain, and a decadent duck fat roux. It’s exquisitely prepared food served in a funky, laid-back atmosphere.

1405 Clay St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 384-3597, noliakitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

OPAL

Opal’s hip-ly minimal menu (many of the dishes have one syllable names like “Duck” or “Fish”) centers around the restaurant’s wood-fired, 88-inch grill. You can taste the grill’s handiwork on the“Cauliflower” appetizer, which also comes with citrus supremes, fennel pollen (a potent and rather pricey spice), salsa brava (a smoky Mediterranean sauce, not to be confused with the ubiquitous Latin American salsa), feta, and almonds. For the duck, the kiss of flame locks in the juices while a medley of wheatberry hominy, preserved cherry, and cane syrup

gastrique (a sort of refined sweet-and-sour sauce made from caramelized sugar and vinegar) add the sweetness that one expects to flavor a good game bird. According to Owner Bill Whitlow, Opal’s menu started small as the team figured out which dishes worked best with its signature grill. The selections, like the restaurant, have continued to grow, so you can expect tweaks and seasonal changes to a menu this committed to fresh meat and produce.

535 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-0629, opalrooftop.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

THE QUARTER BISTRO

Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a half-pound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with papardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy.

6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 271-5400, qbcincy. com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

SACRED BEAST

Sacred Beast advertises itself as a kind of upscale diner, but the real gems are the oddball dishes that don’t quite fit the diner mold. The menu can be disorienting in its eclecticism: foie gras torchon is next to fries with lobster gravy, and a king salmon is next to a diner breakfast and deviled eggs. Winners are scattered throughout the menu in every category. On the cocktail list, the Covington Iced Tea, a lemon and coffee concoction made with cold brew, San Pellegrino, and vodka is oddly satisfying. The service is good, and there is some flair about the place—including vintage touches, from the facsimile reel-to-reel audio system to the mostly classic cocktails—even within its rather chilly industrial design. In short, go for the unique grub; stay for the elegant, shareable twists on classic snacks.

1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 213-2864, sacredbeastdiner.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

SENATE

Ever since it began dishing out its lo-fi eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl of supremely badass hot dogs to the palate-rattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant. Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned fries inspire countless return visits.

1100 Summit Place Dr., Blue Ash, (513) 769-0099, senateblueash.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

TASTE OF BELGIUM

Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocery at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots. There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and Brussels sprouts—served with pancetta and sherry vinaigrette—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Six rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town. 1135 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 396-5800, and other locations, authenticwaffle.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues–Sun, breakfast and lunch Mon, brunch Sun. MCC. $

COLETTE

At his new “mostly French” restaurant Colette, which occupies the former Zula space across from Washington Park, Chef Danny Combs has built a more laidback home for his focused, pristine cooking. While there is classic bistro fare, like steak frites, on the concentrated menu, there are also less familiar but equally classic French dishes, like Brandade de Morue (a silky emulsion of whipped salt cod served with rustic bread) and the savory puff pastry known as Vol-au-Vent. One can turn to the extensive drink menu (also “mostly French”) to find a wine or cock-

tail to go with any dish on offer. Like Zula, Colette would function just fine as a wine and cocktail bar, though we can’t imagine coming to a place this good and not eating something.

1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1018, coletteotr.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

Top10 LE BAR A BOEUF

If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve been to Le Bar a Boeuf—the late JeanRobert de Cavel’s fun-yet-refined French bistro located on the first floor of the Edgecliff Private Residences in East Walnut Hills—it may be time for a revisit. The formerly burger-centric menu now approaches the full repertoire of bistro classics. The menu reads like a greatest hits list of bistro fare, with escargot, beef tartare, duck leg confit, steak frites, and French onion soup all making appearances. As France’s influence on American fine dining has waned, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant committed to not only preserving the French classics but reinvigorating them.

2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 7512333, lebarboeuf.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

LUCA BISTRO

Luca Bistro opened in October 2022, but it feels like it has been around for decades. The unabashedly French restaurant, with its French posters, bright red outer paneling, and chalkboard menu proclaiming its specials to passersby, fits into its Mt. Adams environs so

perfectly that it’s hard to imagine Hatch Street without it. That, combined with warm service, timeless French fare, and relaxed joie de vivre makes this a true neighborhood establishment. Chef Frederic Maniet grew up in the south of France and has done an excellent job transporting his native cuisine to a quiet corner of Cincinnati. These are the dishes that culinary Francophiles often crave, prepared in a straightforward, timehonored way. The Bouchées à la Reine, a buttery, flaky puff pastry filled with chicken, mushrooms, peas, Gruyèere cheese, and béchamel sauce, is so warm and comforting it makes chicken pot pie seem aloof by comparison. It’s a warm, gentle reminder that French food can be convivial and affordable.

934 Hatch St., Mt. Adams, (513) 621-5822, lucabistro.com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun, dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

AL-POSTO

Al-Posto is an upscale southern Italian spot that reflects the same commitment to quality ingredients and delicate preparation that made its predecessor Dear such a gem. Appetizers include classic sharables like marinated olives (prepared with orange zest, rosemary, and Calabrian chile), baretta with grilled focaccia, and coppa (a cured pork served with preserved peppers and almonds), but it’s the pasta (which can be ordered as an entrée or a first course) that’s not to be missed. We recommend the Cacio e Pepe, a seemingly simple dish comprised of bucatini (similar to spaghetti, but thicker), black pepper, and a sharp pecorino Toscano. Since you’re probably wondering, “Al-Posto” roughly translates to “at the spot.” Located in the middle of Hyde Park Square, this eatery seems poised to become the culinary focal point of the neighborhood.

2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, alposto.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. V, DC, MS, AMEX. $$

Top10

NICOLA’S

Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrated 25 years in business in 2021. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the candied slice of blood orange on the mascarpone cheesecake to the staff ’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the perfectly nested ribbons of beets in the pickled beet salad or the balance of bitterness, funkiness, and creaminess in the endive and Gorgonzola salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.

1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$$

Top10

SOTTO

There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. Orecchiette with rapini and pork sausage comes in a buttery, lightly starchy broth with a kick of spice that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of

EGG-CELLENT OPTIONS

Nashville-based breakfast and brunch spot Biscuit Love is making its way north to the Queen City later this year. The 3,300-square-foot space is part of the $51 million Willkommen mixed-use development at the corner of West Liberty and Pleasant streets in Overthe-Rhine. This will be the restaurant chain’s sixth location. biscuitlove.com

the chicken liver mousse to the seasonal fruit sauce on the panna cotta, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness.

118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 977-6886, sottocincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

SUBITO

Focusing on Northern Italian cuisine, Subito carves out its own worthwhile place in the landscape. Most of the items on the menu—from pizza to various pastas—will be familiar, but there are delightful surprises, like the vegan torta di ceci. At the base of the dish is a light, flaky farinata—a griddled pancake made out of chickpea flour. Topped with pickled red onion, and covered with nectarine and toasted almonds, the whole dish is rounded out with a touch of tangy sweetness from a blackberry balsamic vinaigrette. Everything at Subito is done with intelligence and a light touch.

311 Pike St., downtown, (513) 621-4500, thelytleparkhotel. com/dining/subito. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

BARU

Baru, the sleek izakaya in the former MidiCi space, prioritizes bar dining, which is meant to be enjoyed alongside its eclectic drinks list. The menu is broken down into drinks, sushi, “small plates,” “plates,” sides, and ishiyaki. Start with clever cocktail offerings, like the Japanese Highball (which uses Japanese whiskey), the Sake-tini, or the sweetly spicy Wasabi Margarita. Sushi chef Samson Kim’s offerings are—like the rest of the menu—fun and funky. The sushi menu is varied, but concise, featuring a trio of ahi tuna, spicy tuna, and escolar, as well as a quail egg nigiri. If sushi got the party going, the theatrical ishiyaki kicked it into high gear. The term refers to dishes that diners grill tableside on a hot stone. We went with the Sakura Wagyu, sourced from Ohio’s own Sakura Farms. For all its convivial buzz, Baru is also a spot where solo diners can enjoy a few peaceful bar-side bites. The Crispy Rice Spicy Tuna from the small plates section brought the same level of freshness

and quality as the rest of the menu. Sometimes it pays to dine alone.

595 Race St., downtown, (513) 246-0150, barusushi.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

Top 10 KIKI Kiki started as a pop-up at Northside Yacht Club, then leapt into brick-and-mortar life in College Hill. Your best bet here is to share plates, or simply order too much, starting with the edamame, salted or tossed in tare, a savory dipping sauce. Add the karaage fried chicken, with the Jordy mayo and the pepe meshi, confit chicken on spaghetti and rice that somehow works. And, yes, the ramen, too. The shio features pork belly and tea-marinated soft-boiled egg, but the kimchi subs in tofu and its namesake cabbage for the meat.

5932 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 541-0381, kikicincinnati.com. Lunch Sun and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $

KYOTO

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—slivers of giant clam on ice in a super-sized martini glass, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, smoky grilled New Zealand mussels drizzled with spicy mayo, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake.

12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotousa.m988.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

MEI

Mei’s menu is meant to represent traditional Japanese cuisine, appealing to the novice as well as the sushi maven. It is divided into sections that encourage a progressive meal of

small dishes: One each for hot and cold appetizers, noodles, sushi and sashimi, special rolls, soups and salads, sushi dinners (with miso soup), and combinations (such as tempura paired with sashimi). Deep-fried soft shell crab comes with ponzu sauce—a dipping sauce made of rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and citrus juice—and the kind of yakitori that you can find on the streets of New York. Bento boxes—lacquered wooden boxes divided into compartments—offer the neophyte a sampling of several small dishes. Mei’s are lovely: deep red and stocked with tempura, cooked salmon, sashimi, stewed vegetables, and a fabulous egg custard with shrimp and gingko nut. Mei’s sushi—nigiri, maki, and handrolls—is exceptionally good with quality cuts of fresh seafood. The staff is knowledgeable, extremely efficient, respectful, and attentive, even when it’s at peak capacity. 8608 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 891-6880, meijapaneserestaurant.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

Come for the jham bong—a seafood soup with flour noodles in a spicy broth with pork, shrimp, squid, mussels, and vegetables. Revered for its medicinal properties, the dinnersized soup will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. It’s a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven. 512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE

In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior

Summer Tastes Good With

Catering

of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate. Co-owner Andy Hajjar mans his station at the end of the bar, smoking a hookah pipe that fills the air with the sweet smell of flavored tobacco, while the friendly but hurried staff hustles through.

906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

Top10 PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the fl avors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking

these classics a little further.

7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

HABAÑERO

It’s easy to find a cheap burrito place around a college campus, but you’d be hard-pressed to find one as consistently good as Habañero, with its flavors of Latin America and the Caribbean wrapped up in enormous packages. Fried tilapia, apricotglazed chicken breast, hand-rubbed spiced flank steak, shredded pork tenderloin, or cinnamonroasted squash are just some of the ingredients for Habañero’s signature burritos. All salsas are made in-house, from the smoky tomato chipotle to the sweet-sounding mango jalapeño, which is hot enough to spark spontaneous combustion.

358 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 961-6800, habanerolatin.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $

MAZUNTE

Mazunte runs a culinary full-court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Pork tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried fish tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mango-habañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke, the margaritas, or the non-alcoholic horchata.

5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 7850000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

NADA

The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll find a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. The Pork Al Pastor tacos, zesty with salsa verde and sweet with grilled pineapple, are definite crowdpleasers. If you’re biased against Brussels sprouts, Nada just might convert you. The crispy sprouts, served with chipotle honey and candied ancho pepitas, are a deliciously intriguing starter.

600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

TAQUERIA MERCADO

On a Saturday night, Taqueria Mercado is a lively fiesta, with seemingly half of the local Hispanic community guzzling margaritas and cervezas or carrying out sacks of burritos and carnitas tacos—pork tenderized by a long simmer, its edges frizzled and crispy. The Mercado’s strip mall interior, splashed with a large, colorful mural, is equally energetic: the bustling semi-open kitchen; a busy counter that handles a constant stream of take-out orders; a clamorous, convivial chatter in Spanish and English. Try camarones a la plancha, 12 chubby grilled shrimp tangled with grilled onions (be sure to specify if you like your onions well done). The starchiness of the rice absorbs the caramelized onion juice, offset by the crunch of lettuce, buttery slices of avocado, and the cool-hot pico de gallo. A shrimp quesadilla paired with one of their cheap and potent margaritas is worth the drive alone.

6507 Dixie Hwy., Fairfield, (513) 942-4943; 100 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 381-0678, tmercadocincy.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $

ON CLOUD WINE

Self-service wine bar Something to Wine About will open at Fourth and Race streets downtown later this year. The upscale bar will feature selfpour wine machines in addition to a full-service bar, highlighting African American and other minority-owned winemakers with a dedicated section of the menu coined “The Darker the Berry, the Sweeter the Juice.”

ROSEWOOD SUSHI, THAI & SEAFOOD

Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Rosewood Sushi, Thai & Seafood is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu tends toward fairly conservative takes on classics, like well-seasoned crab cakes and thick, creamy chowder full of seafood. The handful of ethnic experiments on the menu are among its most vibrant offerings, including a Mediterranean fish stew that takes inspiration from the North African coast. Tender, fluffy couscous soaks up a fiery but sweet tomato sauce that showcases chiles and peppercorns, golden raisins, and lovely firm cashews, and the stew itself is packed with mussels, shrimp, and chunks of fish. 3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, oakleyfishhouse.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$

JEFF RUBY’S

Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers, even the willowy model types, inhale slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime) like they’re dining in a crack house for carnivores. The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Cowboy, 22 ounces of 70-day dry-aged bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers.

505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$

Top 10 LOSANTI

A bit more upscale than its sister restaurant, Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti is also more conservative in its offerings. Service is friendly and infor-

mal, and though the meal feels like a special occasion, prices and atmosphere are right for, say, a date, rather than a wedding anniversary. The filet mignon, rib eye, and New York strip are cut to order for each table (there are a few available weights for each). The steaks themselves are totally irreproachable, perfectly seasoned, cooked to precisely the right point. Losanti even makes the steakhouse sides a little special. Sweet and smoky caramelized onions are folded into the mashed potatoes, a nice dusting of truffles wakes up the mac and cheese, and the sweet corn is at least freshly cut off the cob and recalls elote with lime and chile.

1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4213, losantiotr. com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

Top 10

THE PRECINCT

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint.

311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby. com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

WILD GINGER

The ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evident in Wild Ginger’s signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid

seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-and-chili brown sauce.

3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

PHO LANG THANG

Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most flavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk that should make canned energy drinks obsolete.

1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), July 2024, Volume 57, Number 10. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 1818 Race St., Ste. 301, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2024 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

What’s the Buzz?

RIGHT

OFF THE drive into the Cincinnati Art Museum’s parking lot lives a thriving hive of honeybees. Installed in spring 2021 by the Art Museum’s Green Team, the hive is a collaboration with the Queen City Pollinator Project (QCPP). “We keep honeybees because of their charisma,” QCPP cofounder and selfproclaimed Tactical Bee Jenny O’Donnell says. “They’re storytellers and social beings.” There are around 125,000 honeybees in the hive, but eggs hatch every day. When they do, O’Donnell sings “Happy Birthday” to them. If you want, you can adopt a bee through CAM. For $5 you can name one (some current names include Buzzy McBeeFace and Obee Wan Kenobee), and for $15 your bee could become Bee of the Month. So far, the bee project has brought in more than 175 new museum donors. According to O’Donnell, the honeybees pollinate plants within a five-mile radius of the hive, meaning they help flowers all over Cincinnati. “People tell me ‘I wish I had bees in my garden,’ ” says O’Donnell. “I always say that you do. You have my bees.”

—CLAIRE LEFTON

CINCY OBSCURA

Enjoy the sweet traditions

MIAMI MOMENTS Savor

In 1929, Myron Timothy “Tuffy” Potter launched Tuffy’s Sandwich Shop in Oxford, Ohio — located in a small basement on Miami’s campus. It quickly became the hangout spot for generations of Miami students. The most cherished menu item was always Tuffy’s specialty, toasted rolls. Although the sandwich shop no longer stands, this 100-year-old tradition is still a staple on campus today.