Cincinnati Magazine - March 2022 Edition by Cincinnati Magazine

HEN PECKED

China Gourmet’s Five Spice Cornish Hen

Hisham H. Arar, MD

Robert Benza, MD

Haroon A. Chaudhry, MD

Alison D. Early, MD

Karl C. Golnik, MD

Daniel J. Hammer, MD

Laura L. Hanson, MD

Donald Hudak, MD

Karen Klugo, MD

Radhika Kumar, MD

Luke B. Lindsell, O.D., MD

Michael L. Nordlund, MD, PhD

Jonathan M. Pargament, MD

Kavitha Sivaraman, MD

Basil K. Williams, Jr., MD

Congratulations to Our 2022 Cincinnati Magazine Top Ophthalmologists

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CIN CIN CRISTIAN AND NICOLA PIETOSO RAISE A TOAST IN THE NICOLA’S WINE CELLAR ON FEBRUARY 3, 2022.

STAYING POWER What’s kept our longest-running best restaurants going for the last two decades? Impeccable service and even better food.

NICK GOEPPER IS STILL UP IN THE AIR

P. 56

The Lawrenceburg native fell in love with skiing at Perfect North and chased his dreams at three Olympics, including the 2022 Games in Beijing. But his longest and hardest journey has been chasing peace and perspective. BY JOHN STOWELL

PH OTO G R A PH BY C ATIE V I OX

NOT IN ANYONE’S BACKYARD?

P. 60

A new pressurized natural gas pipeline pitted Duke Energy against Hamilton County residents who didn’t want it running under their streets or near their schools. With construction completed, the focus now shifts to safe operations. BY CARRIE BLACKMORE SMITH

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ON OUR SITE

112

FOOD NEWS

16 / CONTRIBUTORS 16 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FRONTLINES

22 / COMEDY

The Pops celebrates Aretha Franklin

24 / STYLE COUNSEL

Standup tours you should see

21 / DISPATCH

TikTok style mastermind Christian Barker

22 / SPEAK EASY Local Irishman Dan Shea

26 / STOREFRONT soHza sister, MainStrasse

28 / GREAT ROOM A comfy Mt. Adams co-working space

DINE

90 / TAKEOUT HERO

COVID-19 reopenings, tweaks, and pivots.

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90 / TABLESIDE WITH… Juice’d-tox Juicery founder Sanchez Thomas

92 / HIGH SPIRITS Anjou, East Walnut Hills

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92 / FIELD NOTES

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94 / TRY THIS

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CITY NEWS

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.

The Mid-City Plate

32 / WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD The probability of fate BY JUDI KETTELER

36 / CITY WISE Ken Parker, U.S. Attorney for the Southern District of Ohio

96 / DINING GUIDE Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list HOME + LIFE

ON THE COVER

photograph by CATIE VIOX

Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.

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112 / CINCY OBSCURA Rich Life Farm & Fungi BY BEBE HODGES

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CONTRIBUTORS

BRANDON WUSKE

J O H N F OX

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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ILLUSTR ATIO N BY L A R S LEE TA RU

BEBE HODGES Contributing writer Bebe Hodges loves to learn, which is one of the reasons she enjoys uncovering the less traveled corners of the Queen City for Cincy Obscura (page 112). This month, she writes about Rich Life Farm and Fungi, a local mushroom farm. “I’d never learned about the process of mushrooms before, and how those are fruited and harvested,” says Hodges, who didn’t expect mushroom farming to be so scientiﬁc.

DANTE TERZIGNI Native Ohioan Dante Terzigni plays with light to breathe life into his compelling illustrations. In “A Duke Energy Pipeline Runs Through It” (page 60), he uses tangled-up pipelines to complement the story’s imagery while adding bright colors to represent a thriving community. “As an editorial illustrator it’s not always about making the prettiest pictures,” he says. “It’s more about making the right picture for the right situation.”

TO P PH OTO G R A PH BY D IA /STO C K . A D O B E .CO M L A R S LEETA RU

THIS MONTH MARKS CINCINNATI MAGAZINE ’S 20TH CONSECUTIVE BEST RESTAUrants issue, an annual ranking of the area’s top dining destinations with an occasional focus on the year’s top new spots. Until the pandemic hit, our March issue was a reliable barometer of which chefs, trends, and neighborhoods were up or down and which were likely to emerge next on the scene. Like the food industry itself, though, our plans got scrambled over the past two years by COVID. We did publish a top 10 list in our March 2020 issue, which went to press in early February and was based on restaurant visits at the end of 2019. You know, in the “before times,” when places were packed and reservations were hard to get. With the crazy upheaval since then—restaurants pausing operations, switching to takeout, and struggling to hold on to staff and suppliers—it made no sense to attempt to evaluate and compare Cincinnati’s best dining experiences. Restaurateurs were just trying to keep their doors open; many couldn’t. Last March we caught up with local restaurant families who don’t simply work in the hospitality industry but live it 24/7, and in many cases have passed that passion on to the next generations. This year, we focus on classic restaurants that have stood the test of time and weathered two catastrophes since our first Best Restaurants issue: the financial meltdown of 2007–2008 and the pandemic. The section’s centerpiece (see “Staying Power” on page 42) is a refresher course on nine restaurants from the original 25 featured in 2003 that are still going. A few have changed locations and even owners, but they’re chugging along thanks to strong leadership and loyal customers. I find it remarkable that roughly a third of the area’s best restaurants in 2003 continue to operate at a high level, given all the challenges the hospitality world (and the world at large) has dealt with. I mean, three of the top 10 from two years ago have closed. It’s a tough business, and we’re thankful that lots of talented people here are still willing to give it a go.

Librarian by day, food writer by night. That’s Brandon Wuske, who’s taken over the role of Cincinnati Magazine’s restaurant critic this year. To prepare, he dined with outgoing critic Akshay Ahuja, who suggested that Wuske begin honing his own skills in the kitchen to better understand the pressures of being a chef. ”I shudder to think of anyone reviewing my cooking,” says Wuske, “but I think I’m coming along.”

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AN IRISH CONFLUENCE P. 22

A TIKTOK STYLE MAVEN P. 24

SOHZA SISTER HELPS WOMEN P. 26

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WITH ALL DUE RESPECT This month the Queen City salutes the Queen of Soul, Aretha Franklin. B I L L T H O M P S O N

ARCH IS WOMEN’S HISTORY

Month, so it’s fitting that the Music Hall spotlight shines on Aretha Franklin, arguably the best female singer of all time. The Cincinnati Pops begin the festivities with Respect: A Tribute to Aretha Franklin March 18–20, followed by Cynthia Erivo’s appearance on March 29. Erivo received an Emmy nomination for her lead role in last year’s National Geographic miniseries Genius: Aretha, and she’ll join the orchestra to perform songs that helped her earn Grammy and Tony awards. John Morris Russell, who will conduct both shows, worked with producer and arranger Scott Coulter on the Respect program, which features Tamika Lawrence, CoCo Smith, and Blaine Krauss singing highlights from Franklin’s six-decade career. It will be Russell’s second time with the Respect baton after leading the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra Pops through the program in 2019. “It’s tough when you’re trying to make a tribute to an incredible singer,” Russell says. “How are you going to do it with one person singing? So we decided to loosen it a bit and talk about her influence on the art, her influence on American music-making, and her style that brought together CONTINUED ON P. 22 ILLUSTR ATIO N BY DAV ID D E L A S H ER A S

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DISPATCH

COMEDY

FUNNY BUSINESS

Three of the nation’s biggest stand-up comedy tours hold court at Heritage Bank Center: Katt Williams March 4, Gabriel Iglesias (left) March 6, and John Mulaney March 13. Throw in Netﬂix sensation Taylor Tomlinson March 26 at the Taft Theatre, and you’ll be laughing all month long. 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

SPEAK EASY

A FRIENDLY SON OF CINCINNATI Everyone might be Irish on St. Patrick’s Day, as the saying goes, but being Irish in Cincinnati sometimes requires a scorecard, given how many different social clubs and affiliations exist. Dan Shea is one of the few people who bridge the main local Irish groups as a member of both the Friendly Sons of St. Patrick and the Ancient Order of Hibernians and as head of the Cincinnati Celtic Festival. Let’s trace back the two main Irish societies here. The Society of the Friendly Sons of St. Patrick was founded in 1771 in Philadelphia and evolved to take care of widows and orphans of Irish veterans killed in the Revolutionary War. Cincinnati was the third chapter in the U.S., founded in 1868. We probably had one group of the Ancient Order of Hibernians in Cincinnati to begin with [in the 1860s], but they split into two: The St. Patrick’s Division represents the west side, and the Lady of Knock Division is on the east side. They were the driving force behind launching the St. Patrick’s Parade [in 1967]. Cincinnati is recognized for its German heritage, but the Irish have been here since

the mid-1800s as well. Thea Tjepkema, who’s an expert on the history of Music Hall, showed me there are two Celtic knots engraved on its exterior. The Irish began working on Music Hall and then German workers ﬁnished up. But the Irish never got to the right place at the right time as a uniﬁed presence here, whereas the Germans did in Over-the-Rhine. The St. Patrick’s Parade is when Cincinnati’s Irish community traditionally comes together. We’re as collegial now as we’ve ever been. It’s mellowed out, and everyone gets along. The parade is Saturday, March 12, starting at noon. It’ll run along Mehring Way at the riverfront from near Paul Brown Stadium and up to Second Street. How will you be toasting on St. Patrick’s Day itself? The Friendly Sons of St. Patrick hold our annual black-tie banquet on that evening. We’re back at Music Hall Ballroom, our traditional gathering spot. We had to cancel the banquet the last two years because of the pandemic, but we’ll be back this year come hell or high water.—J O H N F O X READ A LONGER INTERVIEW WITH DAN AT CINCIN NATIMAGAZINE.COM

PH OTO G R A PHS BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S

IMAGERY COURTESY (ICON) C ARLIE BURTON / (SPEAKEASY) DANIEL SHEA / (COMEDY) PAUL MOBLEY

gospel, R&B, soul, and rock and and earned respect. I know that’s a cliché, but it’s true.” roll. These singers have experRussell enjoys recalling Franklin’s tise in different areas to cover not just Aretha’s life story and not just her muconcert with the Pops at Riverbend in sical style, but also the inﬂuence she had 2016. “After the show, I kinda snuck into on music around the world.” her dressing room to say hi,” he says. “I’m Franklin, who died in 2018 at age 76, thinking about what I wanted to say, was inducted into the Rock and Roll something like, You’re the greatest, blah blah, blah. And she’s sitting with her feet Hall of Fame in 1987, the second year up on a coffee table, sipping a Vernors of ceremonies for the Cleveland mu[ginger ale]. And I just blurt out, ‘Verseum; she was the only woman in the nors, Vernors,’ thinking, Duh, of course, first two classes. She was voted No. 1 you’re from Detroit [home of in Rolling Stone’s list of 100 Greatest Singers in 2008, and the drink]. She looks at me and her version of Otis Redding’s says, ‘I have a fantastic ham “Respect” moved into the top glaze recipe that uses Vernors. spot of the magazine’s latest Take a can of Vernors, a half cup of brown sugar, and a dolversion of the 500 Greatest Songs of All Time list in 2021. lop of French’s [mustard], and Coulter certainly admires put some maraschino cherry You’d Better Think juice in there. That’s Aretha’s Franklin’s talent, but he beFind details about Glaze.’ Ever since then, when lieves her tortuous journey is even more noteworthy, al- Cincinnati Symphony we cook a ham, we always put and Pops shows at though not a large portion of cincinnatisymphony.org. Aretha’s Glaze on it.” Franklin might be the the program. The obstacles she overcame show a sheer will that isn’t brightest light in Music Hall this month, just uncommon but almost unheard of. but there is more star power March “Her father was a minister, and she 25–27. Conductor Louis Langrée leads got pregnant at age 12,” says the UC Colthe Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra lege-Conservatory of Music grad (singer in a program featuring Eighth BlackKrauss also has a CCM degree). “Yet she bird, the Chicago-based contemporary became one of the greatest performers of music group. Highlights include a new all time. In addition, she fought for civil Orchestral Fanfare by jazz great Wynton rights and fought for gay rights. She was Marsalis and the world premiere of “Nine making music and putting her stamp on Mothers” by Kinds of Kings, a composer things right up until the end. Looking at collective that advocates for underrepher songs is one thing, but looking at her resented voices. The concert wraps up life is important as well. She overcame with the popular Symphonie fantastique every obstacle that was thrown her way by Hector Berlioz.

STYLE STYLE COUNSEL COUNSEL

Christian Barker OCCUPATION: Brand Director, Hellman Retail Group STYLE: Primed for the metaverse You’re the brain behind the Hellman Retail Group’s TikTok, which, at last check, had more than 4 million followers. What’s the story there? When the pandemic hit, it challenged the way we thought as a retail store. We didn’t know if people would be back in stores shopping again so we knew we had to adopt an aggressive digital strategy to keep our business alive. So we downloaded TikTok, posted our first video, and the rest is history. Once we discovered a formula that worked for us, we doubled down and challenged what being a fashion brand could mean. You’ve debuted dozens of themed suits on TikTok, inspired by everything from Naruto to Squid Game. Do you have a favorite? Our channel is based 100 percent off our community— something we’re very proud of. We sort through thousands of comments to pick something fresh and exciting. Once we have an idea, we cultivate the elements of the suit and then Chuck [Hellman] and I craft the final look together. My favorite suit we’ve ever created is Iron Man. It’s a beautiful Italian tuxedo with an arc reactor tie and a repulsor pin. With a little editing and special effects, you can really picture Tony Stark wearing the suit! The Hellman Retail Group just announced— at least from what we’ve seen on social media—a venture into the metaverse. Tell us about this plan to launch NFTs in suit form. Our launch into the metaverse is our biggest project yet. [It’s called] Metaluxe. We’re here to make fashion cool again. Our vision is to create digital suits you can wear in augmented and virtual reality. NFTs are the ownership verification tool, but the technology bringing these suits to life through AR and VR is much bigger and a real innovation in this space. — L A U R E N F I S H E R

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STOREFRONT

A GLOBAL SISTERHOOD COVINGTON BOUTIQUE SOHZA SISTER EMPOWERS WOMEN TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN THE LOCAL COMMUNITY AND ABROAD.

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Sisterhood means a lot to Debbie Lupariello, Melissa Henry, and Vicki Miller, who—if you haven’t already guessed—are in fact sisters. Though their family has always been close, sisterhood is about more than genetics for them. It’s about creating a community of women who are connected by a mutual desire to uplift each other and make a difference. The trio does just that through soHza sister Fairtrade Boutique, the store they founded in 2013—then exclusively online—with a mission of “helping women here by helping women there.” Here’s how it works: soHza sister sells handmade jewelry, purses, and clothing crafted by women throughout the world and donates a portion of the proceeds to local nonprofits that empower women, putting the customer “at the center of change.” “We were looking for something to do together as sisters to make a difference,” says Lupariello, who oversees the business’s marketing and financials. The idea for soHza sister stemmed from a handmade recycledpaper beaded bracelet that Miller received from a friend. “Because it was something physical, the connection to the story was more tangible. The person who made it felt more real because we were holding it,” Lupariello says. Now customers can “feel” the impact of their purchases in person at soHza sister’s first brick-and-mortar location, which opened

in July on Main Street in Covington. From leather totes made in Honduras to bracelets fashioned in Ecuador, India, and Vietnam, the shop offers colorful, beautifully crafted goods that you can’t ﬁnd at big box stores. Henry, who manages merchandising (Miller handles creative and branding), seeks partnerships with sustainable, womenowned, fair-trade organizations that uplift women through advanced career opportunities, fair wages, and supporting education opportunities for their children. Locally, soHza sister partners with the YWCA, Girls on the Run, the Women’s Fund, and Women Helping Women, all of which support

women and girls. After facing challenges in 2021, including the deaths of their father and Lupariello’s husband, the sisters are thankful for the Covington and local nonproﬁt communities, which have embraced soHza sister’s new storefront. “All of our communities have wrapped their arms around us, and we’re super grateful for it,” Lupariello says. “And that tells you something: Women want to help women.”

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2 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

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SOUND BARRIER After spotting similar 1 ﬁxtures at a local restaurant, Michele Campbell had these lights custom-made. And they aren’t just for looks—because of their shape, they actually absorb sound, making for perfect acoustic harmony in this open-concept office.

DRIFT ON BY That massive cedar log 2 propped up in the corner isn’t just scrap wood. Campbell sources the logs from Wessing Tree Service, power washes them, and incorporates each one into a Red Whale property.

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STATEMENT PIECE The white console table is 3 part of one of Campbell’s treasure-hunting excursions. The designer isn’t a stranger to driving moving trucks to markets and warehouses in search of the perfect piece.

HOT SEAT A swing in the office? What 4 is this, Google? Campbell couldn’t pass up the chance to add some whimsy to the lounge space with this plush swing chair, which anchors to the ceiling and immediately draws the eye to the center of the room.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BROOKE GENN

Ryan Kiefer Celebrating 10 Years in Cincinnati

LOFT LIFE WHAT CAN A COASTAL-COOL MT. ADAMS OFFICE TELL US ABOUT THE FUTURE OF WORK? EVERYTHING. — L A U R E N F I S H E R T

HE PANDEMIC HAS CHANGED EVERY-

thing about the way we work— from how we do it to where we do it. It’s precisely why home office renovations have been in high demand. But also on the upward trend? Commercial offices that don’t look like offices at all. Michele Campbell sees this as a business opportunity. An interior design veteran who hopped onto the rental scene after Serena Williams stayed at her Mt. Adams home while filming a commercial (true story), Campbell has put her creative energy into transforming local residential spaces as chief designer of Red Whale Rentals. Now, she and her team are entering uncharted territory with The Loft, a commercial office space in the heart of Mt. Adams. The space rebels against the narrative of cold, fluorescent lights and closeddoor offices. Jute rugs, natural woods, and pops of muted greenery dot the space, creating an environment that feels far more like a spa than it does an office. “I try to give this organic, esoteric, kind of sanctuary feel,” the designer says. “I like to think of it as this laid-back California style. It’s just peaceful.” The nine individual offices are sparsely furnished—but the way we work today, what more do you really need than a place to put your laptop? The vintage desks in most offices are framed by floor-to-ceiling windows. Campbell is keenly aware that the wants and needs of the modern office worker are changing. “That’s a reward, to me,” she says. “To know that it’s really benefiting someone.”

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Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, weekday afternoon deejay on 92.5 FM The Fox. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

DR. KNOW

those natural ingredients will occasionally vary. The peppers used for Grippo’s BarB-Q chips come from several sources and are tested on the official Scoville Scale for pungency. It’s a standard that includes a tolerance for slight variations, and Lehmkuhl agrees that recent crops have leaned toward the hotter end. Because we’re talking about actual food and not test tubes, all peppers are tasted upon delivery. The Grippo’s plant adjusts accordingly, combining science and art. Those who require every crunch to taste like a science experiment will have to look elsewhere. Besides, that’s not fun, and everyone knows Grippo’s goes with fun. Hey, that’s their jingle from the 1980s. The Doctor forgot to inform Lehmkuhl who wrote and produced it (me). Science and art, indeed.

Q+ A

Settle a bet for me. I say that Broadway, our downtown street running north from the river, is named just “Broadway.” My friend says no, it’s officially “Broadway Street.” That’s redundant and silly. The street signs themselves, from block to block, are inconsistent. So who wins? —BROADWAY WHICH WAY DEAR WHICH:

Has Grippo’s Potato Chips changed the recipe of their “Bar-B-Q” chips? This is not a complaint. I love hot chips, and they seem to have turned it up a notch. Then again, sometimes it doesn’t taste that way. It’s not always the same. Am I imagining things, or has something changed? —GET A GRIPPO

DEAR GET:

Ken Lehmkuhl is the longtime plant manager at Grippo’s, and people have been asking him this question for decades. He’s proud of his never-changing answer: When you ﬂavor a snack with natural ingredients instead of industrial chemicals (like some potato chips do),

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The Doctor balks at crowning a winner here, because you seem to have uncovered an explosive municipal controversy. To wit: Page nine of the official Addressing Guidelines for the City of Cincinnati and Hamilton County notes that some of our street names have no suffixes and that “one example of this is Broadway.” Is that the smoking gun? Not so fast. Our very same city has erected signs — some of them backlit—assuring drivers that they are on Broadway Street as they cross East Fourth Street, New Street (between Sixth and Seventh), and 14th Street. This seems like a Minority Report. Literal “street resistance.” It gets murkier. Listings from the Hamilton County Auditor show name suffixes on all addresses (Main Street, Sycamore Street, etc.) except for—you guessed it— just Broadway. Then again, unofficial but ILLUSTR ATIO N S BY L A R S LEE TA RU

semi-authoritative sources such as Google Maps stubbornly shout “Broadway Street” on every block. City maps going back to the mid1800s lurch back and forth on the issue. Therefore, the Doctor must regretfully suspend judgment upon you and your friend’s Big Broadway Bet. Give my regards.

With The Cincinnati Enquirer ending Saturday print editions, I’m reminded of an old habit. Back in the late 1960s I’d read their Saturday “Teen-Ager” section, mostly for laughs. It was totally about clean-cut “decent” kids and blind to America’s youth earthquake. What’s the story about that feature? —BORN TO BE MILD DEAR MILD:

In 1965 The Enquirer created an entire Saturday section aimed at the emerging Baby Boomer audience, called “Teen-Ager.” The hyphen was your ﬁrst clue that the section was run by adults and maybe not all that outta sight. Some typical hard-hitting headlines: “My responsibilities as an automobile driver!” “Parents have ﬁnal say on time to get home!” and “Christ shouldn’t be compared to Hippies!” Another feature called “What Do You Think?” asked fearless questions such as “How would you describe your ideal girl?” Cincinnati’s zealous attempts to protect its kids during the counterculture era have been covered in the magazine previously (see “Teens for Decency,” in the April 2020 issue), and “Teen-Ager” was another example of this effort. In The Enquirer’s defense, we should note that absolutely everybody read the newspaper back then, so while the section was meant to attract young readers (and those advertising to them) parents would also surely see these pages. We wouldn’t want them getting all uptight and freaked out. By 1972, “Teen-Ager” had shrunk inside the regular Entertainment section and rebranded as “Young People.” A few years later it was gone, as was the youth of its target audience. The times were done a-changin.’

MARCH 15 - 27, 2022 Aronoff Center CincinnatiArts.org

M A R C H 2 0 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 3 1

WE LCO ME TO MIDDLEHOOD BY JUDI KETTELER

Random Acts of Life

DO TWISTS OF FATE PLAY AN OVERSIZED ROLE IN HOW OUR FUTURES UNFOLD? PROBABLY.

I FAILED JUST ONE CLASS IN COLLEGE: INTRODUCTORY PROBABILITY. ACTUALLY, I wound up with an A because my failing grade was one of the higher failing grades. The material was difficult, but the professor made it unnecessarily challenging and the only way he could get students to pass his class was to grade on a curve. Probability tries to understand random events, the premise of which sounded wildly interesting. But the reality fell short for me, because the professor spent the whole semester making us analyze the probability of poker hands, which felt so unrelatable. Flushes? Who cares?! I needed stories to grasp the ideas. For example, he could have said: What is the probability that two big adult life events will happen to you on the same day or in the same week or the same year? Now that would have been a compelling exercise, with curious variables to factor in and out. 3 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

We could have used life expectancy data to determine our time frame or narrowed it to the years of early adulthood and midlife, perhaps ages 20 to 60. We could have created a list of assumptions, talked about correlation versus causation, and even debated how what seems to be a random life event—such as buying a house or starting a business—is far less random when you understand socioeconomic factors. But a deck of cards is a pre-defined set of 52 things, which means clear answers. You can get no such clarity around turns of fate in life. Though I was miserable at probability—70 percent because I had a bad teacher and 40 percent because I hate percentages—I’ve been trying to figure out randomness my whole life. Mostly, I seek to know how events are connected. Two or more occurrences or memories link in my head and, because I’m a storyteller, I make meaning out of the link. I’m remembering this now, because this spring marks exactly 20 years since a series of intertwined life events that all happened within days of each other. It was a week that shaped the entire trajectory of my adult life, and I think often about how just one thing being different could have changed it all. IN MARCH 2002, I WAS SINGLE, DEBTfree, living in a one-bedroom apartment near Oakley Square, and had a good job at a tech startup. I was ready to buy my first home, and after going to look at several, I bonded with a charming little two-story just around the corner on Isabella Avenue. On the evening of March 31 (it was Easter Sunday), I spotted a guy on Match.com. I stopped to read his profile only because I recognized that the screen name he used, AngelClare34, was based on a character from the Thomas Hardy novel Tess of the D’Urbervilles, which I’d read (and hated) in high school. Reading his profile, he seemed, well, like a jerk. Since I considered his chosen literary alias, Angel Clare, to also be a jerk, I e-mailed him to express my thoughts on this dual jerkness. He e-mailed me back the next day and said, “Well, at least we both like books.” In addition to being the start of our digital communication, that Monday was also the day I made an offer on the Isabella house. I was giddy as I handed my real estate ILLUSTR ATIO N BY D O L A SU N

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WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD agent a check representing my earnest money. On Tuesday morning, the sellers accepted my offer. When I got off the phone with my agent, I said to my boss, “I just bought a house!” He had a strange, surprised look on his face, which I understood

tighter, and they wanted to pay someone less to be a part-time administrative assistant. My boss knew he’d be letting me go by summer, so when I told him I was about to tackle a mortgage, he ﬁgured it was better to send me on my way before I signed any contracts. It was actually a kind thing to do,

IT SEEMS, THEN, THAT THE AUTHOR WHO WAS A MASTER OF WRITING ABOUT CHANCE AND FATE, THOMAS HARDY, MAY HAVE DETERMINED MY OWN. more clearly when he called me into his ofﬁce a few hours later and ﬁred me. I hadn’t done anything terrible. I just wasn’t very good at the job, because instead of the marketing job I thought it would be it was a lot of office management stuff, which I was only slightly better at than introductory probability. The budget was getting

though I felt betrayed at the time. I withdrew my offer on the house, cried into my pillow, and sent Angel Clare an e-mail saying I’d lost both my job and the house I was going to buy. He suggested we talk on the phone. The next evening, Wednesday, we heard each other’s voices for the ﬁrst time. He had a slight Southern

drawl, which surprised me. But it surprised me even more that I told him I was thinking of being a freelance writer. (Was I? It just came out of my mouth!) I could use what would have been my down payment to support myself as I built up clients, I told him. The plan seemed to form in my head as we talked. He said that sounded too risky and tried to talk me out of it. I argued that I had nothing to lose, and in that moment—on the phone, with this person who pronounced shit like shee-it—I decided to do it, if only to prove him wrong, especially since he associated himself with an annoying literary character. By the time we met in person for our first date that Sunday—exactly a week from when I had first spied his Match.com handle—I had already started networking to find freelance work. I built a freelance career—which is still going strong, thank you very much, Angel Clare—and we built a relationship, getting married five years later. We started our

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PH OTO G R A PH BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S

family, and he quit his job to be a stay-athome-dad. And now, 20 years to the month, all I can think is that the whole story, with its strange moments of chance, is just so damn Thomas Hardy. His books are full of tiny twists of fate, like a letter slid under a door that someone doesn’t ﬁnd in time, and coincidences that cause life trajectories to pivot. It seems, then, that the author who was a master of writing about chance and fate, Thomas Hardy, may have determined my own. Am I married to this man, with these children, living in this house, with this career, because my sophomore year high school English teacher had us read Tess of the D’Urbervilles? I KNOW HUMANS TEND TO THINK THAT groupings or runs of numbers must mean something, even though the nature of randomness is that groupings and runs of numbers will occasionally appear. For example, I’m one of seven kids. My oldest

PH OTO G R A PH BY J O N ATH A N W I LLI S

brother was born in January (exactly nine months after the honeymoon, because Catholicism), but the other six of us are grouped: two in July, two in September, and two in December. I already know such a thing wasn’t planned, because there was nary a spec of birth control. Perhaps there were patterns of being amorous? Could that explain the groupings? My mom’s response when I asked once was a cross between a loud giggle and an eye roll. I have a friend who teaches high school math. Whenever I’m trying to help one of my kids, she’s wonderful about answering texts, like, How does one ﬁnd the surface area of a triangular prism? Naturally, I consulted her to learn more about the math behind determining when one thing causes another, since I know she uses statistics and probability to help students examine realworld problems like the racial wealth gap and the gender pay gap. Understanding causation is key to being a critical thinker, but so is being able to

separate two true things. My friend talks with her students about learning to discern when one thing causes another versus when one thing merely exists beside another. For example, she says, a student who struggles with anxiety and is also a top performer in school could wind up falsely believing that their anxiety is the main reason they achieve good grades. Not a math answer, but a life answer—which is what I’ve wanted all along. Is my career success dependent on my desire to keep proving Angel Clare wrong? And did I gain a career only because I lost a house? This is really what I’ve been wondering these 20 years. Does forever linking the events of that fateful week serve me? It’s no doubt created hiccups in my marriage and in how I think about my writing. Then again, I believe I have the royal ﬂush of lives. I could tell you the probability of such a hand if only I hadn’t failed statistics with an A.

M A R C H 2 0 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 3 5

CITY WISE BY JIM DeBROSSE

Justice With Humanity KEN PARKER FINALLY GETS TO LEAD THE U.S. ATTORNEY’S OFFICE.

WHEN A SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA DRUG kingpin and Crips gang member decided in 2000 to expand his crack and meth empire into Zanesville and Middletown, Ohio, he hadn’t counted on coming up against Ken Parker. Then a young drug enforcement lawyer in the federal prosecutor’s office for southern Ohio, Parker wasn’t content with convicting just the little guys on the street. He wanted the big guys in their respectable homes and offices. Parker’s philosophy is “to make sure you’re not just taking the low-hanging fruit,” says Ben Glassman, who worked with Parker for 14 years in the Cincinnati office. “Ken is a prosecutor’s prosecutor.” As U.S. Attorney for the Southern District of Ohio in 2011, Glassman selected Parker to head his criminal investigations division. Today, at age 49 and with 20-plus years of experience as a federal prosecutor, Parker now runs the office. Appointed in November by President Biden, he oversees the enforcement of federal law for a 48-county region stretching from Columbus to Steubenville and down to the Ohio River. He supervises a staff of 125, including 65 prosecutors, with offices in Columbus, Dayton, and Cincinnati. Parker’s colleagues point to that 2000 drug case as proof that the Cincinnati native and Walnut Hills High School alum won’t shy away from going after the criminals at the top, whether they’re drug lords or politicians. The California drug kingpin was rarely 3 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

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CITY WISE seen in person, even by his closest lieutenants. Instead, he arranged for large quantities of drugs to be shipped to friends and former gang members all over the country. The locals handled the dirty work of drug processing and street sales, then took half the profits and shipped the rest of the cash to his home in Compton, California. The operation worked smoothly until 2003, when clerks at a Staples store in Zanesville became suspicious of a loose packet someone wanted to ship via UPS to a Compton address. The package had all the signs of a cash shipment, a violation of UPS policy. The clerks opened it and found thick wads of bills wrapped in black rubber bands. They called Zanesville police, and a “sniff dog” quickly detected the reason for the cash transaction. On July 21, 2005, Parker filed a sealed indictment in Cincinnati’s federal court against those profiting most from the drug network, and the operation’s leader was charged with distributing 15 kilos of crack and more than a kilo of meth. Leading the case at trial, Parker won a jury conviction and a life sentence for him, later reduced on appeal to 30 years. AS THE NEW U.S. ATTORNEY HERE, PARKer doesn’t like to emphasize his prosecutorial side. He would rather talk about what he calls the “big picture” of law enforcement that means “first of all, holding people accountable.” But for Parker it also means finding the root causes of crime and partnering with communities to prevent those crimes from ever happening. He says he’ll encourage his prosecutors to do as he has often done in his career: “get out from behind our desks” and talk to community groups about their challenges and what they can do to help keep their neighborhoods safe. At 6-foot-3 and 230 pounds, Parker may look like a tough guy, but his most disarming quality is a self-effacing sense of humor. Asked how fast he was in high school when he played defensive end for the Walnut Hills Eagles, he answers with a comedian’s perfect timing, “Oh, that’s easy. Slow.” Parker’s glassed-in corner office, part of the Justice Department’s honeycomb of rooms without signage in the Atrium One building downtown, has a nice view

of Great American Ball Park. He points to the official seal of the U.S. Department of Justice embedded on the back wall. “Like that eagle there, that’s my belief,” he says. “The eagle has two sets of talons. One talon has arrows, the other has an olive branch. They both make up the symbol. That’s how I do my work.” Parker says he learned early on that true justice is balanced with compassion and understanding for the defendant while working as a law clerk for one of his chief mentors, U.S. District Judge S. Arthur Spiegel, a president Carter appointee who died

Hospital Medical Center. But from spending his childhood summers at his grandfather Vaughn’s small farm in Charleston, Indiana, he learned that work isn’t really work if you love what you’re doing. “You tell a kid to go clean a tractor. Is that work? Maybe when he’s 17. But like at 8, 9, or 10? He’s like, ‘Wow, I’m glad you’re giving me the responsibility and glad you trusted me.’ I don’t look back on any of it as work.” Parker puts in long days at the office but, when he’s home, Cheryl says, “it’s all about his family and doing the things we love to do, like having dinner as a family, spending

U.S. ATTORNEY KEN PARKER SAYS HE LEARNED EARLY ON THAT TRUE JUSTICE IS BALANCED WITH COMPASSION AND UNDERSTANDING FOR THE DEFENDANT. in 2014. “It was the toughest job I’ll ever love. He let me know how in the world of law, speciﬁcally criminal law, you need to bring in humanity.” The “big picture” has become a necessary part of Parker’s personal life as well. Diagnosed with Stage IV colon and liver cancer in March 2015, he underwent numerous rounds of chemotherapy and a round of radiation before having extensive remedial surgery. In October 2020, after a recurrence, he received a liver transplant, a procedure that lasted 13 hours. Except for his hospital stays, Parker seldom lost time at work, wearing his chemotherapy infusion pump under his suit coat while he went about his duties. “He was determined to continue to do what he loved and to be here for his family,” says his wife Cheryl, a former TV news anchor in Indianapolis whom Parker met while attending law school at Indiana University. She now heads external communications for Cincinnati-based AAA Club Alliance. “He has the most strength, mental and physical, of anyone I’ve ever known.” Parker says he learned his work ethic from his father Henry, an orthopaedic technician at The Christ Hospital for 40 years, and his mother Betty, a nursing assistant for nearly as long at Cincinnati Children’s

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time with our twin daughters.” Leah and Cecelia attend their father’s high school alma mater. Growing up in Walnut Hills near Evanston, Parker faced the temptations of any young person living amidst the challenges of poverty, gun violence, and drugs. He credits his respect for his father for escaping unscathed.“Whenever I found myself in a particular situation, regardless of the people I was around, my father was my number one person,” he says. “I always asked myself, If he was here right now, what would he want me to do?” JUST HOW PARKER WILL PROCEED IN THE federal prosecutor’s office is of keen interest to Cincinnati residents concerned about the rise in recent years of political bribery and corruption in both city and state government. Three Cincinnati City Council members were arrested on federal corruption charges in 2020, and two have been convicted and sentenced, Tamaya Dennard and Jeff Pastor. The case against P.G. Sittenfeld, a one-time front-runner for the mayor’s office, is set for trial in federal district court on June 20. Up in Columbus, former Ohio House Speaker Larry Householder is accused of running a $61 million bribery scheme that

channeled funds from FirstEnergy Corp. to a dark money group that eventually lined Householder’s pockets. In return, federal prosecutors say, Householder passed a $1 billion nuclear power plant bailout in House Bill 6, which was quickly signed into law by Gov. Mike DeWine. Aides and lobbyists close to Householder were also charged in the scheme, and FirstEnergy agreed to pay a ﬁne of $230 million for its involvement. The indictments for those federal corruption cases were handed down in 2020 and 2021, when Parker’s predecessor, David DeVillers, was the district’s U.S. attorney. DeVillers got much of the credit for the crackdown from the local media, but an examination of the indictments shows that the investigations into those cases began during Glassman’s tenure in 2018 and 2019. His chief of criminal investigations at the time just happened to be Parker. Will Parker continue to press those investigations no matter where they lead? “We are going to go wherever the evidence takes us,” he says, smiling at his use of the standard comment on any individual case. “The prosecutors here, I trust them all that they are going to do that. We’re going to address public corruption, we’re going to address child exploitation, we’re going to address cybercrime, and we’re going to address Social Security and tax fraud. Every case we have, we proceed until it’s closed.” Parker’s life-long devotion to public service leaves no doubt that he’ll press every investigation to its conclusion, says Ralph Kohnen, who worked with him until leaving in 2007 to join Taft Law. A rarity among federal prosecutors, Parker went straight from law school to his clerkship with Judge Spiegel and then to work for the U.S. attorney’s office in 1999 and has stayed there ever since, despite the much larger income to be made in private law practice. “This has been a long journey for him, personally and professionally,” his wife Cheryl says of his appointment as U.S. attorney. She believes there’s a good reason her husband has survived late-stage cancer and a liver transplant. “I know this is what he was meant for.”

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Wednesday, March 16 | 6 pm Delta Hotels by Marriott, Sharonville CincinnatiMagazine.com/BestRestaurantsEvent

RANTS Join us as we celebrate our diverse local restaurant scene, featuring taste-tempting samples from establishments that are longtime favorites, masters of reinvention, or future classics.

UNDER THE SEA This sea bass forte from The Precinct is made with king crab and shiitake mushrooms in a beurre blanc sauce.

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[p. 43]

What’s kept our longest-running best restaurants going for the last two decades? Impeccable service and even better food.

In 2003, this magazine released its first Best Restaurants list. Of the 25 restaurants originally featured, nine are still open. Most of these remaining restaurants have gone through seismic changes over the past two decades: new menus, new chefs, new managers, and for some, new locations and new owners. They have also weathered external threats, including a financial meltdown and a pandemic. Rather than compile a new Best Restaurants list in a year when our restaurant industry is still recovering from the setbacks of said pandemic, we thought we would do a revisit to find out what’s helped these institutions thrive for so many years in the face of so many challenges.

GOOD DOG (Left to right) The grilled 14-ounce pork chop from White Marble Farms is topped with smoked apple chutney and served on a bed of house Brussels sprouts and grilled polenta cake; Brown Dog’s interior; the eatery’s home at Summit Park.

A LOT HAS CHANGED AT THE BROWN DOG CAFÉ SINCE it was included on our 2003 list. For one, it’s changed owners: Mary Swortwood sold the restaurant to Chef Shawn McCoy and his business partner, Saundra Richey, that same year. It has also moved from its strip mall location on Pfeiffer Road to front and center at the swanky development at Summit Park in Blue Ash. The restaurant suits its Summit Park location well. The finished wood walls and ample light from massive windows overlooking the park give the restaurant a contemporary cabin feel. And with its large park-side patio, it’s a good place to enjoy nature year-round. It’s safe to say that the menu has undergone several changes in the last two decades, but McCoy and Richey have kept a playfully refined spirit alive. In 2003, we described the place as “fun-loving, eclectic, and upscale,” and this description still fits perfectly. Creatively titled (and prepared) dishes like Lipstick on a Pig—a shaved ham sandwich with brie and fig jam—show that its sense of flavorful whimsy is still going strong. When I asked the manager, Max Pelkey, what has helped The Brown Dog Café stand the test of time, he credited the restaurant’s strong customer base. His answer, by the way, came up in some form or another at every restaurant I visited. At The Brown Dog Café, like so many other great local restaurants, regulars matter. 4335 GLENDALE MILFORD RD., BLUE ASH, (513) 794-1610, THEBROWNDOGCAFE.COM PHOTOGRAPHS BY FREELANCER NAME

[p. 45]

THE BROWN DOG CAF

CHINA GOURMET

FOOD AND A VIEW (Left to right) Crispy tofu and vegetables at China Gourmet; the dining area at Orchids is a whole mood.

Matt Loomis, who bought the building that houses China Gourmet in 2016, didn’t even want the restaurant at ﬁrst. But when the Moy family—China Gourmet’s owners since 1977— wanted to sell it as well, he reluctantly took over the beloved and

long-standing eatery. Lucky for us, Loomis was able to keep Chef Larry Brutschi and most of the original staff. When you’ve got a chef who has been manning the kitchen for 35 years, making sauces and dumplings by hand, you hang onto him for as long as you can.

To be sure, Loomis has been involved with China Gourmet for quite a long time himself, having started in the kitchen in 1995 at age 15. When he took over, he wanted to do right by the restaurant’s core group of loyal customers, whom he credits for the restaurant’s continued success. He also wanted to do right by his employees, which is why, during the Great Shutdown of 2020, he let them handle the delivery orders rather than contracting with services like DoorDash or Grubhub. The dynamics have changed these days, with carryout driving the majority of the restaurant’s sales. But regulars still come in to share dishes like bacon-wrapped scallops in black bean sauce and perfectly crispy ﬁve-spice Cornish hen. In fact, when I was there, the Moy family was having a party at a big banquet table near the bar. How’s that for a ringing endorsement? 3340 ERIE AVE., EAST HYDE PARK, (513) 8716612, THECHINAGOURMET. COM

BRITNEY RUBY MILLER JEFF RUBY CULINARY ENTERTAINMENT “To be able to lead the company that my father built, and to continue his legacy, is an honor and fulﬁlling beyond words. The Precinct opened before I was born so I have never known a world without a family restaurant or my father’s approach to excellence with everything we do. As much as it’s been a part of my life, it’s also been a part of thousands of life’s milestones and celebrations for our guests in Cincinnati and beyond. I couldn’t be more proud of what our amazing team has been able to accomplish, most notably creating so many lifelong connections within each of our communities.” — A . D . L .

H E A D S H OT C O U R T E SY J E F F R U BY C U L I N A R Y E N T E R TA I N M E N T

CLASSICS HONORABLE MENTION

ORCHIDS AT PALM COURT RE

35 W. FIFTH ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 564-6465, ORCHIDSATPALMCOURT.COM

What’s old is new again for Cincinnati diners who have experienced the rebirth of several local restaurants with exciting new offerings. — S A M R O S E N S T I E L OAKLEY FISH HOUSE This spiritual successor to Mt. Adams Fish House (No. 10 in 2003) keeps the tradition of delicious seafood alive in Oakley. Owner Chanaka De Lanerolle sold the iconic restaurant in 2011 but just couldn’t stay away. He opened its reincarnation on Oakley Square last year, bringing some customer favorites to the new menu. Featuring traditional fare from the former Mt. Adams menu, the eatery offers a few more adventurous food experiments like a deconstructed ahi sushi roll and Mediterranean ﬁsh stew. 3036 MADISON RD., OAKLEY, (513) 631-3474, OAKLEYFISHHOUSE.COM

SHANGHAI ON ELM After 20 years downtown, Shanghai Mama’s closed suddenly in 2020 when its building was sold. But it wasn’t long before the beloved Chinese restaurant was reborn as Shanghai on Elm in early 2021, with a menu ﬁlled with customer favorites, from General chicken to lo mein. Diners will ﬁnd unique takes on Asian cuisine, like the Shanghai veggie pepper steak and yucca fries. That should keep the bargoers packing the place all night on the weekends like they’ve always done. 700 ELM ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 906-7000

R O O K WO O D P O T T E RY FO O D & B E V E R A G E CO. After a ﬁve-year hiatus, The Rookwood is back, this time under a new name and new ownership— Teak Thai founders Bret and Brian Michaud. The establishment kick-started again in December in the same spot—the historic Mt. Adams building that still houses kilns from the famed pottery manufacturer. The restaurant offers no-frills American cuisine with an all-day breakfast menu and plenty of pizza, steaks, chops, and full-size salad options for lunch and dinner. 1077 CELESTIAL ST., MT. ADAMS, (513) 421-7665, ROOKWOODPOTTERYFBC.COM PHOTOGRAPH BY JEREMY KRAMER

[p. 47]

ORCHIDS MISSED OUR INITIAL TOP 25 LIST BY A COUPLE OF YEARS. THE restaurant reopened its doors in late 2004, hitting No. 3 the following year. Then, in 2009, it went on a five-year run in the top spot, the longest of any restaurant on the list since its inception. That’s why the last couple of years for the eatery have been so hard to watch. The COVID-19 pandemic has been challenging for every restaurant, but none more so than Orchids. That’s because it lies at the intersection of two of the hardest hit industries—restaurants and hotels. As such, the main dining area is currently closed and the restaurant menu is currently unavailable. But don’t worry, the Hilton Netherland’s sales and marketing director, Bob Louis, told me that Orchids should fully reopen by the second quarter of this year. And when it does, it’ll have a new chef. The restaurant—which has been helmed by male chefs since, well, forever—will roll out a slightly tweaked menu under the watch of recently promoted female executive chef, Mallory Hemmer. But the iconic Art Deco space in the Carew Tower isn’t just sitting empty: the bar is open for business and a bar menu is available. The bar menu, a collaborative effort of the Orchids kitchen staff, features the kind of elevated seasonal food one would expect from the restaurant, albeit in a less formal form. Hungry bargoers can fill up on gnocchi with garlic fondue, flank steak, and chai shortbread. And there were plenty of lively bargoers when I was there on a festive December night, the timeless bar buzzing as a jazz duo played Christmas music. The future looks bright for Orchids, but it always has. It’ll be even brighter when the restaurant is back in full bloom.

BORN

JEFF RUBY S STEA KHOUSE

It’s worth mentioning that at No. 5 on our 2003 list, Jeff Ruby’s is the highest-ranking restaurant still in business (Pigall’s, Maisonette, The Palace,

TRIO

and Daveed’s have all, sadly, shuttered). It’s a reminder of exceptional leadership that permeates the brand and the robust family business that Ruby created. Because amid

the ﬂashiness and ﬁlets, it’s sometimes easy to forget that this is, at heart, a family business. And it looks like the family is ready for a next-level upgrade when the restaurant moves into its new home in the old Tiffany & Co. building across from Fountain Square, now rebranded as The Foundry. It’s a move that seems like destiny— the city’s prime restaurateur moving into its prime real estate. Diners can expect the same vibe as in the current space on Seventh

TRIO’S SURROUNDING NEIGHborhood has changed dramatically over the past 19 years. Kenwood Towne Centre went from an up-and-coming shopping destination to one of the most congested commercial arteries of the northern suburbs. Despite the constant traffic and ﬁxed ﬂock of construction cranes, Trio still feels like a place for regulars. Proprietor Gregg Pancero was quick to mention the couple that drives up from Over-the-Rhine every day for a meal and the

Street, just taken to Jeff Ruby–like extremes. Manager Griffin Urlage is ecstatic about the new location. “It will be Jeff Ruby’s legacy,” he says. “The culmination of everything he has achieved over the past 40 years.” So you can expect the glitz and glamor to be, somehow, ampliﬁed. You can also, I imagine, expect the same Old Hollywood elegance and charming, attentive service that make you feel like a member of the Rat Pack, even if you’re only stopping in

for a beer and a quick bite. To me, that’s its legacy: a restaurant that rolls out the red carpet for countless Cincinnatians, regular and famous alike. 700 WALNUT ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 784-1200, JEFFRUBY.COM/CINCIN NATI

customer who couldn’t wait to come back after recovering from shoulder surgery. “We’ve met so many good friends, generational friends,” he says. “We’re now on grandchildren whose grandparents we’ve served. In a way, we’ve grown with our customers.” It’s not just the personal connection that keeps them coming back; it’s also the restaurant’s focus on quality and consistency. As Pancero notes, consistency means “making sure your soup is hot, your salad is crisp, and your seafood is fresh.” This is the mantra that has kept Trio going strong since its founding in 1988. With its focus on relationships and consistency, Trio is the kind of restaurant that can easily feel like home. I certainly felt this way, chatting with the bartenders, enjoying a cold glass of beer and a warm plate of rustic pork and veal meatballs. Kenwood was awash with shoppers, but it was all quiet comfort and friendly banter at Trio. Same, I imagine, as it was in 2003. And same as it will be, no matter how many new buildings go up around it. 7565 KENWOOD RD., KENWOOD, (513) 984-1905, TRIOBISTRO.COM

THE POWER OF THREE (Left to right ) Trio’s seared tuna; hostess Anna Williams; red wine-braised short ribs with glazed baby carrots, peas, pearl onions, and horseradishwhipped potatoes.

[p. 49]

PHOTOGRAPHS BY FREELANCER NAME

THE PRECINCT

WHEN YOU’VE GOT IT, YOU’VE GOT IT. THE COMPANY now known as Jeff Ruby Culinary Entertainment had three restaurants on our 2003 list, and they’re all still going strong. The Precinct, of course, was the original— the go-to spot for anniversaries, birthday dinners, holiday parties, and star athletes since 1981. And it still feels like an original. Despite its elegance (and decadence), The Precinct is a neighborhood restaurant in ColumbiaTusculum. The chalkboard sign in the parking lot entices you to “Buy Jeff Ruby’s IN THE BEGINNING (Left to right) Stained glass steaks for home.” You can smell the steaks, windows and chandeliers dot the rich charcoal smoke, as you approach The Precinct’s dining room; the brick building that used to house the the opulent bar area; Cincinnati Police Department’s Sixth Prethe 12-ounce cold water cinct (I can’t think of a better advertiselobster tail served with eight ounce filet mignon. ment for any steakhouse than that smell). You can still expect to find classic steaks named for classic Cincinnati ballplayers: The Steak Collinsworth— an eight ounce filet with king crab, asparagus, bordelaise, and béarnaise—remains a hit. But The Precinct—along with other Ruby’s steakhouses—has made way for the city’s latest sports heroes as well. Take the Steak Burrow: a bayou-inspired blackened strip with creole crawfish sauce. A namesake steak at The Precinct is the least this city can do for our young franchise quarterback, given all the Super Bowl hopes we’ve pinned on him. And if—dare I dream— the Bengals do win it all, I would be willing to place a bet on where they’ll go to celebrate. 311 DELTA AVE., COLUMBIA-TUSCULUM, (513) 321-5454, JEFFRUBY.COM/PRECINCT

CRISTIAN PIETOSO NICOLA’S “Maintaining the brand requires daily high standards at the end of the day. I believe that hard, honest work, core values with a great lineup of food, and service combined with the right atmosphere are key for longevity. Our guests are coming out to our restaurants to enjoy life and the expectations are high. It’s not easy. There are always so many moving components but again we have a solid group of folks in our teams that enjoy what they do and it shows. It has been a hard couple of years for our industry, but I am conﬁdent the worst is behind us. People are coming out again and so the future is bright.” — A . D . L .

BOCA

114 E. SIXTH ST., DOWNTOWN, (513) 542-2022, BOCACIN CINNATI.COM

[p. 51]

While reading our 2003 profile of Boca, I came across a line that struck me: “Faulk also earns bonus points for bringing gourmet fare to the future of Cincinnati fine dining: the twentysomethings who savor a meal before heading off to a night of warehouse dancing.” Boca, it turns out, wasn’t just feeding the future of Cincinnati fine dining; it was becoming it. Those twentysomethings grew up (exchanging their warehouse dancing shoes for flats and loafers in the process) and so did Boca. The restaurant moved from its hip Hamilton Avenue storefront to a comfortable space in Oakley to a sleek fine dining cathedral downtown and expanding into a multi-city restaurant group that would set the pace for fine dining in Cincinnati for years. And it’s never grown complacent. The restaurant has two mantras—“never stay idle” and “BPA” (“blow people away”). It would be easy to dismiss this as inspirational speak if they weren’t so unbelievably good at it. Plus, these same mantras are what got Boca through the most challenging portion of its existence. “Never staying idle” means opening a gourmet takeout service (Domo) when a pandemic shuts down the dining room. It also means pivoting around supply chain issues to create imaginative, seasonal menus from what’s available. Bonus points to Falk for paying his employees’ health insurance throughout the eight-month shutdown. Of course, it’s important to keep them happy and healthy—they, too, are a big part of this city’s fine dining future.

NICOLA S

Nicola’s is a study in staying power. It was a destination restaurant long before Over-theRhine, let alone Pendleton, was a restaurant destination (it was the spot in either neighborhood to make our list nearly 20 years ago). Owner Cristian Pietoso took over the place from his father, Nicola, in April 2021. That’s right. Nicola’s is a second-generation ﬁne dining restaurant in the city’s hottest neighborhood, one where restaurants rise and fall with the trends. The establishment has stayed on top of ﬁne dining trends without being merely “trendy.” It has somehow managed to be both

cutting-edge and classic. Cristian credits his father with the restaurant’s continued success. “He helped Nicola’s stay in business day in and day out, with his sweat and tears.” Not content to rest on his father’s laurels, Cristian has already put in some sweat of his own. He brought in a new chef de cuisine, Brian Williams. And he’s added some new second-ﬂoor seating, expanded the wine cellar, and diversiﬁed the wine list beyond Italian varietals. Despite the changes, many of the core staff remains, including Casey Gilmore, a server who has been with the restaurant for 20 years.

She also works as a real estate agent, and sold Cristian a condo in the neighborhood back in 2004. He recently sold that condo to Anna Pﬁrrman, his sous chef of 10 years. Like his father, he was proud to pass on his piece of Over-the-Rhine. 1420 SYCAMORE ST., PENDLETON, (513) 7216200, NICOLASOTR.COM

ROYAL VIBES (Clockwise from left) Nicola and Cristian Pietoso; Carlo & Johnny’s dining areas look like rooms in a castle; Nicola’s rack of lamb.

place feels alive with decades’ worth of excited chatter and clinked martini glasses. Aside from the sense of history that permeates each room like smoke from a ﬁne cigar, the attentive, welcoming service is the most noticeable thing about the restaurant. Valets greet you as you

9769 MONTGOMERY RD., MONTGOMERY, (513) 9368600, JEFFRUBY.COM/ CARLO-JOHNNY

DAVID FALK BOCA “We have three pictures on our wall: one of the space before it was Maisonette, one of Maisonette, and one of the space now. Fine dining isn’t the most proﬁtable business, but everyone got behind Boca because they wanted to bring a world-class restaurant back to 114 E. Sixth St. I think we’ve done that. We go back to the fundamentals of cooking—the things that worked 30 years ago and even 60 years ago—while at the same time evolving. We build on our ﬁne dining foundations. For me, the goal is to be like Beethoven or Mozart, who moved music forward while still drawing inspiration from the past.” — B . W .

HEADSHOT COURTESY BOCA

[p. 53]

CARLO & JOHNNY

Built more than 100 years ago, the converted mansion that houses Carlo & Johnny, Jeff Ruby’s elegant suburban outpost in Montgomery, was, at different times, a stagecoach stop, a gangster hideout, and a casino. Amid the busy dinner-hour din, the

walk up the brick steps to the gleaming double doors. The hosts smile at you as you enter the vast, wood-paneled foyer. Servers in white jackets rush about the dining room, all business, but not too busy to nod and say hello. They take care of you here, and that’s what has kept the house packed all these years. Carlo & Johnny, like so many other Jeff Ruby joints, has built a culture around taking care of its guests. And those guests haven’t gone anywhere: despite the challenges of COVID-19, the restaurant is busier than ever. Since we’re talking about staying power, some of Carlo & Johnny’s staff members have been around just as long as the restaurant itself (if not longer). Sales Manager Kevin Lehman started out parking cars in 1981. Just another interesting story in a restaurant that’s full of them.

NEW

SSIC

We can’t look back without taking a quick look forward to explore some of the restaurants we think might make the classics cut in the future. — A I E S H A D . L I T T L E P E A R L ST A R A recent addition to the OTR dining scene (it just opened in November), this oyster bar—from Nashville restauranteur Terry Raley—serves up farm-fresh fare that will make you feel like you’re in Nantucket. 1220 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 381-0427, PEARL-STAR.COM

PAMPAS Pampas’s rustic cooking focuses on parrillada, the Argentine method of cooking over an open ﬂame, which lies at the heart of its menu. The penetrating smokiness of the technique works quite nicely when matched by equally intense ﬂavors. 2036 MADISON RD., O’BRYONVILLE, (513) 321-0863, PAMPASCINCINNATI.COM

S A C R E D B E A ST With a ﬁrm grasp on classical techniques from their time at Maisonette, Jeremy Lieb and his wife, Bridget, offer elegant twists on shareable small plates and eclectic entrées at this upscale diner. 1437 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 213-2864, SACREDBEASTDINER.COM

PE PP & DOLORES Named after owners Joe and John Lanni’s immigrant grandparents, this Italian restaurant offers surprises within the familiar and the comforting. With a menu full of crowd-pleasing fare, every dish feels balanced and modulated and gradually perfected. 1501 VINE ST., OVER-THE-RHINE, (513) 419-1820, PEPPANDDOLORES.COM

THIS OLD HOUSE (Clockwise) The bar area and dining room at Tousey House have an old money feel; the restaurant’s exterior; fried chicken with all the ﬁxings.

THE TOUSEY HOUSE TAVE RN

THE TOUSEY HOUSE IS A PARAdox. Few restaurants on this list have gone through more changes since the early aughts, yet have remained so constant. The version we pro-

5963 N. JEFFERSON ST., BURLINGTON, (859) 586-9900, TOUSEYHOUSE.COM

SHAWN McCOY THE BROWN DOG CAFÉ “We strive for consistency and to be cutting edge. To stick around, you have to adjust, be quick on your feet. And talk to your customers, ﬁnd out what they want. That’s how we started doing our big carryout business. All the office workers around us in Blue Ash were a big part of our business. With so many of them still staying home, we’ve had to try new things—from carryout to take-home meal kits to ghost kitchens. The restaurant business is incredibly nimble; you can do anything you want with it.” — B . W .

H E A D S H OT CO U R T E SY S H AW N M c COY

[p. 55]

filed in 2003—the one with chef/owner Kristy Schalk at the helm—is gone. Its current owners, Butch and Mary Ann Wainscott (who used to own the Greyhound Tavern in Ft. Mitchell), reopened it in 2008. With the change in ownership, The Tousey House shifted its focus from experimental Southern cooking to classic down-home fare. But it’s the traditional favorites that keep the customers coming back. Which is understandable, since this is, after all, one of the oldest and most comforting spaces in Greater Cincinnati. The brick Federalist mansion was built in 1822 and it still feels like a mansion: the bar is in the parlor, and the dining room is, well, a dining room. Not only does it still feel like a house, it still feels like a home, thanks to the ﬁreplace, the oil paintings, and little touches like the old whiskey ads on the wall. And that is how The Tousey House has remained constant, despite changes in ownership and menu. It still feels like a warm, elegant old home, and you still feel like a welcome guest in it. Could there be a more perfect place to enjoy a rich Kentucky hot brown or a glass of Old Forester?

By John Stowell

Page 57

He lowers his visor and blasts down the

slope, feeling neither the warmth of the sun nor the chill of the morning air. All that matters in these few seconds is speed, timing, and a safe landing. But once airborne, Goepper is an acrobat, a showman, an artist. As he rockets off the ramp, he crosses his skis into an X and grabs one by the tail. He tweaks it to give himself as fast a rotation as possible. Spinning like a corkscrew—which is what the trick is called— he seems to defy gravity as he ﬂips and twists three times before a soft thud marks the moment his skis reconnect with the earth. Did I mention he lands backwards? There is joy in his face and sometimes an adrenaline-induced scream when he lifts his visor after a good run. Goepper is in love with the snow, the speed, and how the danger and beauty of his event, known as slopestyle skiing, has transformed win-

ter’s most popular sport. If you’ve ever watched the Winter X Games, you know Goepper has been both the dominant slopestyle skier and the Comeback Kid. He won the gold in 2013, 2014, and 2015 before fading a bit until the so-called “COVID X Games” last year, when he again won gold. The X Games are spectacular for the viewing public, both in person and on ESPN. Set among pine trees high above Aspen, Colorado, it’s where slopestylers, snowboarders, and aerialists strut their best moves, hoping to leave the judges with mouths agape at something they’ve never seen before. “For our sport, the X Games are our Super Bowl,” Goepper says without hesitation. “It holds more value to the core of our profession, and the talent pool is usually higher because everyone wants to be there.”

Page 58

For perhaps everyone else on skis and skates, though, the highest mountain is the Winter Olympics—and that’s where Goepper is in February, soaking in the charm of the Olympic Village, exploring the mysteries of China, and seeking the one medal he doesn’t have: an Olympic gold. Goepper is no stranger to the Olympics, having won the bronze in the 2014 Sochi Winter Games and silver in the 2018 PyeongChang Olympiad. The Chinese have designed the slopestyle event to be as much a cultural journey as it is a challenging course. Goepper and his competitors will ski down a mountain generously seeded with steel rails and a jump ramp built to resemble the Great Wall of China. [Editor’s Note: The 2022 Winter Olympics kicked off as this issue went to press. You’ll know Goepper’s medal fate already as you read this story.]

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY (THIS SPREAD AND PREVIOUS) U.S. SKI & SNOWBOARD / ( F A M I LY P H O T O ) C O U R T E S Y L I N D A G O E P P E R

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The Genting Secret Garden Ski Resort north-

west of Beijing is a long way from the modest 400-foot drop in Lawrenceburg, Indiana, Goepper’s hometown. It’s where, at 5 years old, he strapped on his ﬁrst pair of skis at Perfect North Slopes. “He climbed everything and jumped off everything,” his mother, Linda Goepper, recalls. He had just learned to walk when Nick toddled outside and onto the Goepper deck in the Hidden Valley Lake community outside Lawrenceburg. Linda’s back was to the deck when her visitor’s face changed to horror. Nick had somehow climbed the pickets and was now crawling on the 2-inch-wide deck rail, 20 feet above the ground. And, with the pure joy only a 1-year-old can express, he made it. Maybe that’s why Goepper today rides the rails with both ferocity and elegance. Slopestyle skiing, besides requiring aerial stunts off ramps, also features sets of rails that skiers jump on and off, perform-

“He climbed everything and jumped off everything,” Linda Goepper says of her son Nick’s childhood in Lawrenceburg.

ing more aerial twists and turns as they do. The rails are generally made of metal and skiers land on them by launching off a mogul or small bump in the terrain. The slopestyle sound is disarming—the swoosh of skis on the snow, the clatter of the skis on the metal rail, the second or two of silence in the air, and a running soft thud as the skier moves on to the next obstacle. It’s the kind of sport that, unlike alpine skiing, doesn’t require a majestic mountain with a 3,000-foot vertical drop and a two-mile-long run. Perfect North, Goepper says as he wolfs down a sub sandwich, was the perfect place to learn the art of skiing. “I could ski every day there, seven days a week, 12 hours a day on weekends if I wanted to,” he says, laughing. “And I usually did. You couldn’t keep me away.” Tim Doll, Perfect North’s director of operations, remembers how you could set your clock on school days. “Nick would show up 20 minutes after the bus dropped

him off from school, and he’d be here until close if he could.” Goepper became such a proﬁcient skier that older kids with driver’s licenses would pick him up and take him home just so they could ski with him. Goepper says he didn’t recognize it until after he moved out west to ski in the Rockies and Cascades, but Perfect North provided him the perfect training ground. Skiers born and raised out west, he came to realize, had to leave the slopes when the sun set. Perfect North, on the other hand, had lights. You could ski from 9:30 in the morning until midnight. That’s a lot of reps, and Goepper feasted on them. As he was growing up, slopestyle skiing was an emerging sport that was starting to gain traction out west. Goepper and the cadre of older kids he hung with on the slopes were intrigued and became advocates for bringing rails and ramps to Perfect North, forming a group they called Freezing Point 32. CONTINUED ON PAGE 82

SNOW BIG DEAL Nick Goepper ( these pages and previous spread ) compe tes at the Toyota U.S. Grand Pr ix at Mammoth Mountain, California, in January, quite a leap from his childhood days in Indiana ( above left ).

NOT IN S ' E N O Y N A ? D R A Y K BAC BY CARRIE BLACKMORE SMITH

ILLUSTRATION BY DANTE TERZIGNI

A new pressurized natural gas pipeline pitted DUKE ENERGY against HAMILTON COUNTY RESIDENTS who didn’t want it running under their streets or near their schools. With construction completed, the focus now shifts to safe operations.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O N AT H A N W I L L I S

M A R C H 2 0 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 6 1

THE

E N I L E PIP E N I L E M I T FEBRUARY 2016: Duke Energy Ohio sends its first letter to Hamilton County property owners who might be impacted by a new high-pressure natural gas pipeline. SEPTEMBER 2016: Duke Energy submits an application to the Ohio Power Siting Board (OPSB) for a Certificate of Environmental Compatibility and Need to build C314V Central Corridor Pipeline. AUGUST 2017: Duke Energy asks the OPSB for additional time to examine site-specific matters. Nearly all communities along the route have asked to intervene in the upcoming state hearing, as well as school districts, including Sycamore; environmental groups; and business and religious leaders.

USTIN AND ANN FELDMAN USED TO LOVE their home in Reading, until Duke Energy constructed a high-pressure natural gas pipeline under Market Street in front of it. “The scariest part is that if that line was cracked and would catch fire and would explode,” says Justin Feldman, his voice rising, “we could be incinerated.” The Feldmans’ daughter and grandchildren also live on the pipeline route, deepening their fears. For nearly six years, the Feldmans fought Duke Energy over the construction of the C314V Central Corridor Pipeline. Many in Hamilton County did, from local high schoolers to seniors to politicians. Nearly every community on the route intervened. But the fight came to an end in September, with a decision by the Supreme Court of Ohio to side with the Ohio Power Siting Board and grant Duke a certificate to build. “The decision is a disappointment,” said a statement from city leaders in Blue Ash, who, along with the municipalities of Reading and Evendale and a grassroots opposition group, argued their case to the state supreme court. “The City put up a strong fight to protect the community and its residents.”

STREET FIGHTERS ANN AND JUSTIN FELDMAN PHOTOGRAPHED IN FRONT OF THEIR HOUSE IN READING ON JANUARY 31, 2022.

62 PHOTOGRAPH BY DYLAN BAUER

“THIS WHOLE PROCESS HAS DESTROYED MY FAITH IN GOVERNMENT,” SAYS JUSTIN FELDMAN.

Now it’s done. The ﬁnal weld of the approximately 13-mile pipeline was made on December 14, and it now lies a minimum of four feet underground from the southern border of Butler County through the Hamilton County communities of Sycamore Township, Blue Ash, Sharonville, Evendale, Reading, Amberley Village, Golf Manor, and Cincinnati, ending at Duke’s C350 Norwood Station. Safety has always been opponents’ biggest concern. An average of 11 people die each year in pipeline incidents, according to 10year tracking by the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration. Duke plans to have the pipeline operational by early March, with restoration projects along the route wrapping up this spring. Company leaders reiterate that they’ve exceeded federal safety requirements and have the track record to operate the pipeline safely. Statistically, now that the pipeline is in the ground, the biggest danger may be, well, the rest of us.

APRIL 2018: Duke asks the OPSB to restart the process of approval. APRIL 2019: The OPSB holds a three-day hearing on the application. NOVEMBER 2019: The OPSB approves the project but throws in a bit of a curveball, selecting an alternative route, not Duke’s preferred route in its application. JANUARY 2020: Opponents file for a rehearing, arguing Duke did not perform due diligence in plotting the alternative route before the OSPB gave the green light. The board denies the appeal. SEPTEMBER 2020: Duke files a 199-page amended application, granted permission to do so by the OPSB. MARCH 2021: The OPSB accepts the amended application. Construction begins. Blue Ash, Reading, Evendale, and NOPE appeal the Ohio Power Siting Board’s decision to the Ohio Supreme Court, which accepts the case but does not require Duke to stop construction. SEPTEMBER 2021: The Ohio Supreme Court issues a unanimous opinion acknowledging the OSPB didn’t follow its own administrative rules but concurring with the OPSB’s decision to grant a certificate to build. DECEMBER 2021: Duke completes the last weld on the Central Corridor Pipeline. P H OTO G R A P H S BY J O N AT H A N W I L L I S

LENN ROSEN COULDN’T BELIEVE WHAT HE WAS READING. IT was February 2016, and one of Duke’s first pipeline letters had arrived at his Blue Ash home on Bleuwing Terrace—one of hundreds of households to receive the notice. “We are writing to inform you of a proposed natural gas pipeline project being designed in order to increase the reliability and dependability of the natural gas delivery system in the area,” the letter read. “Providing safe, reliable natural gas is a responsibility we at Duke Energy take very seriously. This pipeline will ensure natural gas reliability for the next generation in Hamilton County.” Rosen began googling 30-inch pipelines, as described in the letter, and soon landed on news articles about explosions, including one in 2010 in San Bruno, California, that leveled a residential neighborhood, killed eight people, and injured 58. Federal investigators determined the utility company, Pacific Gas and Electric, caused the explosion with flawed record-keeping and sloppy maintenance. “I realized this was a huge deal,” Rosen says, recalling his initial thoughts. He began going door to door to consult his neighbors and became one of the founding members of the grassroots organization Neighbors Opposing Pipeline Extension (NOPE), which fought Duke to the Ohio Supreme Court. NOPE’s membership grew into the hundreds, and it organized public forums to rally regional politicians, school and business leaders, academic experts, environmentalists, and others who opposed the project. It helped get more than 1,000 letters of opposition filed against Duke’s application for a Certificate of Environmental Compatibility and Public Need from state regulators. There are no local votes taken on these matters. In general, NOPE believed the pipeline was unnecessary and irresponsible. Many saw the plan as a money-making deal for Duke and not a benefit to the people it endangered. NOPE worked with experts to calculate a “blast zone” to qualify and quantify what was at stake, pointing out that all of the proposed pipeline routing options went by schools, churches, work, and business centers. One jogged right by Jewish Hospital and Kenwood Towne Centre. The route Rosen’s house was on would get dropped early in the process, but he and others continued to fight. It wasn’t a “NIMBY” (not in my backyard) issue, but a not-in-anyone’s-yard one, he says. The Central Corridor Pipeline was constructed to move natural gas to customers in Hamilton County from a northern pipeline in Butler County. Duke officials said the company needed to build the pipeline, originally estimated to cost $110 million, in order to retire two propane caverns and not risk putting some customers out of service. The pipeline must be pressurized to move and balance gas through the system, though the amount of pressure necessary was CONTINUED ON PAGE 86 always part of the public debate.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW DOENCH

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JOHNSON INVESTMENT COUNSEL

SHARON TALLMAN, CFP ®, PORTFOLIO MANAGER; SANDY HIMMELSBACH, CFP ®, PORTFOLIO MANAGER; LAURA MATTERN, CFA, CFP ®, PORTFOLIO MANAGER; CHRISTINE WARREN, ESQ., VP OF ESTATE PLANNING; TARA ADAMS, CTFA, VP OF TRUST SERVICES

As one of the nation’s largest independent wealth management firms, Johnson Investment Counsel has been delivering financial peace of mind to clients since 1965. Johnson provides more than just investment advice; they offer support and expertise through all the stages of life’s journey. From building a career and raising a family, to caring for elderly parents and planning for retirement, Johnson’s female professionals are balancing many of the same things as the clients they serve. Taking time to listen and understand an individual’s unique challenges and priorities helps Johnson truly partner with clients to establish a plan to reach their goals. Tara Adams, CTFA, Mary Burns, Esq. (not pictured) and Christine Warren, Esq., work alongside Sharon Tallman, CFP®, Sandy Himmelsbach, CFP® and Laura Mattern, CFA, CFP®, to craft customized wealth management plans designed to set clients on a path to long-term success. z

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BARTLETT WEALTH MANAGEMENT

LORI B. PO OL E, W E ALTH ADVISOR, PRINCIPAL ; ALIYA L. RIDDLE, AS SOCI ATE I NV ES TMENT ADV I SOR; HOLLY H. MAZZOCCA , PRES I DENT, WEALTH ADV I S O R, PRI N C I PAL ; LAURA L. HUMPHREY, W EALTH ADVISO R, PRI NCI PAL; CATHERINE L. MILLER, WEALTH ADV I SOR; KAILYN M. NEAT, AS SOCIAT E W EALT H ADV I S O R

At Bartlett Wealth Management, we recognize financial advice is not gender neutral. Women’s financial lives are unique. Women often get paid less, accrue more debt, do more unpaid labor, and live longer. In short, women are distinctive and should be served distinctively, too. That’s why we’ve launched WEinvest, Bartlett’s new female-focused initiative aimed at empowering women in every area of their lives, including financially. You’re seeking data and facts, eschewing that “leave it to the experts” mentality. You want to own the financials. You want to understand why you’re making a decision and be able to explain it to your family. We want this for you, too. At Bartlett, we are here to make investment management accessible and attainable, so you can invest intelligently—on your terms. z 600 Vine St., Suite 2100, Cincinnati, OH 45202, (513) 621-4612, www.bartlett1898.com

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PATRICE B. BORDERS, JD

F O U N D E R & PRI N CI PAL , PREVENTION STRATEGIES L LC

Attorney and workplace consultant Patrice Borders is grateful to live her purpose of teaching organizations to build mindful, emotionally intelligent leadership that energizes the work environment. Patrice specializes in giving leaders mental tools—based on modern neuroscience—to handle stress, uncertainty, conflict, and other issues that can undermine your mission. When she founded Prevention Strategies LLC 21 years ago, she drew on deep experience in employment law and human capital practices to build innovative cultures that support teamwork and belonging. Patrice teaches your leaders how inner changes make profound outward differences in how they shape culture. She has delivered transformational training and coaching to clients across the world. A client described Patrice as “the perfect combination of IQ, EQ, facilitator, and wizard.” Embodying this description, she intentionally builds relationships that help individuals and organizations evolve into their best selves. z

(513) 703-4353, www.preventionstrategiesllc.com

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DIANE EGBERS

F O UN D ER A N D CE O, L EADERSH IP EXCEL L ERATION

Diane Egbers has served the region’s top business leaders for 25 years as founder and CEO of Leadership Excelleration, specializing in leadership development, executive coaching, and creating high-performing teams. Diane has a gift for inspiring leaders to achieve sustainable high performance and create cultures with leadership continuity. Diane and her team have coached and developed thousands of leaders and their teams, from startups to large, international organizations. She has vast expertise about emerging trends in multigenerational leadership progression, cultural intelligence, women’s leadership, inclusion and more, and is author of The Ascending Leader. In addition to leading her Leadership Excelleration team, Diane also serves as board chair of Grant Us Hope, a suicide prevention nonprofit she founded in 2016 after losing her son to suicide. She is passionate about equipping parents, schools, and communities with needed resources to reduce youth suicide and change the dialogue and stigma around teen mental health. z 5905 E. Galbraith Rd., Suite 1600, Cincinnati, OH 45236, (513) 677-0995, www.lei-consulting.com

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DANIELLE IVORY SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS, OHI O NATI ONAL FI NANCI AL S ERV I CES

As a fresh college grad and new single mother, Danielle Ivory was determined to start her career. A temp service placed her at Ohio National, where she’s been for 20 years and counting. She landed a permanent processing position in the new business department and then moved into a marketing support role. After earning an MBA from Xavier University, Danielle held multiple management positions in insurance operations. She was named a Rising Star by the Greater Cincinnati YWCA in 2015. Since 2019, she has served as senior vice president of operations for the enterprise. Danielle was chosen to participate in the Cincinnati USA Regional Chamber’s Leadership Cincinnati development program in 2021. In addition to her duties at Ohio National, Danielle serves on the boards of the Salvation Army in Greater Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky, ArtsWave of Cincinnati, and Urban League of Greater SW Ohio. z

One Financial Way, Cincinnati, OH 45242, (800) 366-6654, www.ohio national.com L to R: Firstname Lastname and Firstname Lastname

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KIM KERN

MANAGING DIRECTOR AND CEO, THE CHI LDREN’S THEATRE OF CI NCI NNATI

Kim Kern is the Managing Director and CEO of The Children’s Theatre of Cincinnati (TCT), the nation’s oldest professional theatre for young audiences. In just eight years, Kim has laid the literal foundation of the next iteration of this 102-year-old organization: growing TCT MainStage attendance to over 100,000 annually and with the purchase and renovation of a facility on Red Bank Road in 2015 to house TCT Academy. Since Kim joined the company, staff and annual operating budget have nearly doubled—to $4 million, and 30 employees strong. Kim serves on the administrative side of the organization but understands the importance of artistic integrity. The balance, trust, and alignment she has with TCT’s Artistic Director Roderick Justice, as well as the entire TCT staff, allows for the perfect blending of “show” and “business”—the intersection of artistic integrity and fiscal responsibility. z

4015 Red Bank Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45227, (513) 569-8080, www.the childrenstheatre.com

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MITCHELL’S SALON & DAY SPA / PUMP SALON

TE RE SA BUS S E L L , S EN I OR VICE PRESIDENT OF P U RCH ASING; LO GA N HINES, OWNER/ PRES I DENT; BRITTA NY ROBERTS, V I CE PRESI DENT OF O PE RAT I ON S ; L I N DA ED WARDS, VICE PRESIDENT OF EDU CATION; JEA NINE KREIMER, V I CE PRESI DENT OF TEAM DEV ELOPMENT; VIVIA N MOORE, S E NIO R M A N AG I N G V I C E PRESIDENT

We have six women in our corporate team, plus one gentleman, Michael, who keeps us on task! Being in a female dominant industry is such a gift. We have the opportunity to work alongside strong and inspirational women every day. This company is so much more than a brand, we are a family who support each other when we need it most and cheer each other along every step of the way. Mitchell’s opened in 1983 and Pump in 2000; Mitchell’s is coming up on our 40th anniversary! I grew up within these walls as my mom is our founder, but the longevity of the careers here is so special, especially for our industry. We even have one employee who has been with us since we opened our doors! Our heart is more than just hair, it’s people and their unique beauty within. z

Kenwood / Hyde Park / Tri-County / West Chester, (513) 793-0900, www.mitchellssalon.com; Rookwood Commons, (513) 841-1110, www.pumpsalon.com

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PARKINSON COMMUNITY FITNESS

L I SA CO ORS , C O-FO U NDER AND BOARD PRESIDENT; MARIB E TH CASH, OPERATI ONS MANAGER; SUE MENDELL, MARY CAROL GENNETT, A ND JAN E S CH ULT Z , PC F M E M BERS.

Parkinson Community Fitness provides a place for persons with Parkinson Disease to go for symptom specific exercise classes, support, and social activities. Opened in September 2019, this 501(c)(3) sanctuary has grown to over 170 members due to the demands of the Cincinnati Parkinson Disease population. From the Co-Founder, Lisa Coors, and the Operations Manager, Maribeth Cash, to the member advocates Sue Mendell, Mary Carol Gennett, and Jane Schultz, PCF is one of the top leaders in Cincinnati for creating a non-judgmental culture. These female advocates go above and beyond to welcome newly diagnosed members to this sanctuary or safe place for all people of every walk of life. These leaders understand the need for acceptance and respect of every individual who walks through the door. Even our resident schnauzer, Eddie George greets everyone who comes in to visit. Please call today to schedule your free assessment and come meet these Women Who Move Cincinnati. z 9687 Kenwood Rd., Blue Ash, OH 45242, (513) 793-6683, www.parkinsoncommunityfitness.org

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JENNIFER STEELE

CEO, MEALS ON WHEELS S OUTHWEST OHI O AND NORTHERN KENTUCKY

The way Jennifer Steele sees it, nonprofit organizations should think and act more like Silicon Valley start-ups rather than dusty risk-adverse organizations that haven’t changed in decades. Tomorrow’s challenges, she says, can’t be solved using yesterday’s solutions. It’s a paradigm shift, but it’s the approach she brought to Meals on Wheels Southwest Ohio and Northern Kentucky when she took over as CEO in 2019, and one that is pushing her to the forefront of the region’s nonprofit leadership realm. Rather than hauling meals to senior centers, she bought a food truck so meals could be cooked on site and served at different locations. Rather than having seniors struggle with groceries, she partnered with Findlay Market to develop a senior-friendly app to order local favorites. Rather than delivering frozen meals, she introduced a fresh meal menu so seniors could order salad and fruit. “We’re transforming what the future looks like for seniors,” she says. “We’re solving big problems and changing big systems, and the only way to do that is to be creative and innovative.” z

2091 Radcliff Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45204, (513) 661-2777, www.muchmorethana meal.org

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UNION INSTITUTE & UNIVERSITY

BETSY MARTIN, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, THE INSTITUTE FOR SOCIAL JUSTICE (TISJ); DR. KAREN SCHUSTER WEBB, PRESIDENT; PATRICIA J. BURKE, JD, VP HUMAN RESOURCES; SANDRA M. MILLS, VP OF FINANCE & CFO

Until the 19th century, women were effectively barred from higher education. Since the 1980s, most undergraduates were women. In higher education, climbing the professional ladder remains a challenge—except at Union Institute & University. We have several women in key leadership roles—including our president. Dr. Karen Schuster Webb is Union’s sixth president. A visionary leader with a passion for community and mentoring women for leadership in higher education, she’s dedicated her career to equity of access to educational excellence in the U.S. and around the world. Other Women Who Move include our CFO, VP of HR, Chair of the Faculty Council, several deans, Executive Director of TISJ, and several Board members. At Union, we understand the importance of achieving gender parity and diversity in higher education leadership. We live our mission to engage, enlighten, and empower students, faculty, and staff to achieve a lifetime of learning and service. z

2090 Florence Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45206, (800) 861-6400, www.myunion.edu

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CHATFIELD COLLEGE

KELLY GRA MLING, V P/ COO; CHRISTINA MULLIS, DIRECTOR OF ADMISSIONS + MARKETING; KELLY WATSON, DIRECTOR OF DEVELOPMENT

Student-obsessed. Compassionate. Supportive. All describe the culture of Chatfield College. As members of the president’s leadership team and strategic planning committee, Kelly Gramling, VP/COO, and Christina Mullis, Director of Admissions + Marketing, complement each other with their 20+ years in higher education and nonprofit management. Kelly Watson, Director of Development, part of the president’s leadership team, is skilled in matching donors’ interests with the needs of the college and manages to bring the necessary funds to support students at a nonprofit college. Their leadership has created a personalized financial aid and scholarship process to make students’ dreams of a college education come true. z

1544 Central Pkwy., Cincinnati, OH 45202, (513) 921-9856, www.chatfield.edu

COLLIERS

ERIN CASEY, BROKERAGE SR. VICE PRESIDENT; TABATHA UMBSTEAD, CONTROLLER; ELAINE GILLESPIE, BROKERAGE SR. VICE PRESIDENT; SLOANE NICHOLS, BROKERAGE SR. VICE PRESIDENT; CATHERINE WILLIAMS, DIRECTOR OF MARKETING & PR

Colliers, one of the largest commercial real estate firms in Greater Cincinnati, is focused on changing the traditional commercial real estate landscape. From cutting edge technology to inclusion and diversity, Colliers provides its clients with best in class resources and talent to make better real estate decisions. Being a locally owned company with international capabilities, Colliers believes their women help move the bar within the industry and help provide better solutions for their clients. z

425 Walnut St., Suite 1200, Cincinnati, OH 45202, (513) 562-2213, www.colliers.com/en/united-states/cities/ cincinnati

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CORPOREX COMPANIES

VALERIE BENDER, RES I DENTI AL SALES ; STEPHA NIE DILL, OFFI CER, CORPORATE ATTO RNEY/CORPORATE SECRETARY; TRINA WESLEY, CREATI V E MANAGER; BROOKE JACOBSEN, LE ASI NG SALES; HEATHER HARRIS, OFFI CER, SV P SALES AND MARKETI NG; NICOLE CHIMENTO, DIRECTOR OF DEVELOPMENT CIRCLEPORT

Coming off a record year, Corporex continues to innovate and scale. Heather Harris attributes much of the organization’s success to the team. “Commercial and residential real estate continues to be strong for us. Premier locations and our focus on tenants in growing sectors has really paid off. On the residential side, our Boardwalk Residences at Ovation will be released for sale in early March into a strong real-estate market. With unobstructed views of Downtown Cincinnati, there is already incredible interest. As we continue to hire and focus on our people and products, we expect 2022 to be another strong year.” z

100 E. Rivercenter Blvd. #1100, Covington, KY 41011, (859) 292-5500, www.corporex.com

DBL LAW WOMEN OF EXCELLENCE

PARTNERS KATIE TRA NTER, LOREN WOLFF, CAT H Y STICKELS, COLLEEN FAUSZ, KELLY HOLDEN, E L L IE HOUSTON, A NGIE GATES, A ND BETSY WEBER

The DBL Law Women of Excellence initiative connects, empowers, invests in, and advances women—within our team, our clients’ organizations, and our community. We proactively pursue opportunities to empower and salute women by identifying and serving in leadership roles, acting as mentors and coaches, and hosting professional networking and development opportunities, including DBL Law’s Annual Signature Event. DBL Law is a full-service law firm representing businesses, nonprofits, and individuals from offices in Cincinnati, Covington, and Louisville. The firm is 50 attorneys strong, including 18 women attorneys . . . and growing! Connect with us to learn more at www. dbllaw.com. z Offices in Cincinnati, Covington, and Louisville. www.dbllaw.com

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GALIA COLLABORATIVE

CAROL ENGEL, MD, PSYCHI ATRI ST; ASHLEY SOLOMON, PSYD, OWNER & PSYCHOLOGI S T; A MBER STEVENS, PSYD, CLINICAL DIRECTOR; KELLY JEWELL, RD, DI ETI TI AN; JEN BURNS, LPCC, CLI NI CAL THERAPI ST

As stress and mental health challenges have continued to grow for women, Galia Collaborative has stepped in to fill a vital need in our region. With a team of 12 licensed clinicians, the group serves as leaders in women’s mental health, offering behavioral, psychiatric, and nutrition services virtually and in-person from their Walnut Hills and Liberty offices. Through partnerships with some of Cincinnati’s foremost organizations, Galia is also supporting women from the inside, delivering mental health services, content, and consultation to teams and companies. By making mental health accessible and relatable, they are making women’s well-being and impact a top priority in our city. z

2245 Gilbert Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45206, (513) 216-0068, www.galiacollaborative.com

JAMIE M. POWELL, CFP ® CERTIFIED FINA NCIAL PLA NNER, CAPITAL ADV I S ORY SERV I CES , LLC

Today, women are determining their own destiny more than ever and I have enjoyed a 35 year careerof helping women “take control” of that destiny. Our vision at Capital Advisory Services, LLC is that every client achieve financial independence. My personal goal of adding value to our client’s overall financial health has led to a very satisfying career. Financial planning is generational. We service multiple generations of clients across the country from our West Chester and Van Wert offices. z Registered Representative of and securities offered throughBerthel Fisher & Company Financial Services, Inc. (BFCFS). Member FINRA/SIPC. Investment advisory services offered through Capital Advisory Services, LLC. Capital Advisory Services, LLC is independent of BFCFS.

8240 Beckett Park Dr, Ste B, West Chester, (513) 9427000, CapAdvisor.net

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RITTGERS & RITTGERS

KOURTNEY BRUECKNER, JULIETTE GAFFNEY DA ME, ELLEN BISCOTTI RITTGERS, LINDSAY BOZA NICH, FAMI LY LAW ATTORNEYS

Founded by Ellen Rittgers, the family law team at Rittgers & Rittgers boasts more than 70 years of combined experience in the areas of divorce, custody, and support, within both the litigation and collaborative models. The team of women includes two former prosecutors and three attorneys selected to the Ohio Super Lawyers lists in 2022, including Ellen Rittgers who was selected to the Top 25 Women Cincinnati. Each of the attorneys is involved in the community of Cincinnati and the surrounding counties. The domestic relations team focuses exclusively on family law related matters and is a division of the 23-attorney law firm, Rittgers & Rittgers z Cincinnati, Lebanon, Oxford, (513) 932-2115, www.Rittgers.com

VOLTAGE INC

JULIE HINKEL, V I CE PRESI DENT (RIGHT); SUSAN LEWA NDOWSKI (SEATED); SHA NNON RILEY (STA NDING)

Celebrating 32 years in business, Voltage co-owner Julie Hinkel and designers Shannon Riley and Susan Lewandowski specialize in offering contemporary European furniture, lighting, and accessories to the Greater Cincinnati region. They strive to support clients in creating environments where furniture and architecture complement each other. Drawing from Voltage’s extensive collection of Italian brands, Shannon and Susan craft settings that are cultured, elegant yet functional, and unique to their surroundings. Let Voltage help you create spaces that you can enjoy now and for years to come. z

3209 Madison Rd., Cincinnati, OH 45209, (513) 871-5483, www.voltagefurniture.com

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NICK GOEPPER IS STILL UP IN THE AIR CONTINUED FROM PAGE 59

By John Stowell

Today, Goepper says proudly, the Perfect North terrain park is as good as anything you’ll see in Colorado, California, or Utah. And you can still jump, spin, tumble, and ride the rails past your bedtime. “Somewhere around age 10 or 11, I began to notice that some people had made skiing their profession, and I was interested in that,” he remembers. His mother recalls that, at about the same time, he began to understand the concept of time management. Goepper couldn’t continue competitive swimming, playing organized baseball and soccer,

boarding schools out west and began selling his parents on the idea of leaving East Central High School. His parents were ﬂummoxed. Chris had just lost his job in the recession, so money was an issue. Nick’s skills had exceeded anything they could comprehend, but they wondered how he’d stack up against skiers who were tearing down the sides of real mountains. But Linda and Chris decided he needed his shot. They had to help him open that first door so their first-born could see where it led. Turns out, it led to slopestyle superstardom. Over the summer between his freshman and sophomore years of high school, Chris and Linda took Nick to Okemo Ski Resort in Vermont and to Lake Placid, New York, where a well-known ski instructor agreed to evaluate him on water ramps and the trampoline. That led to an invitation to train in Utah with one of the country’s venerable daredevil skiing coaches, Mike

NICK GOEPPER’S BODY DEVELOPED, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, HIS CREATIVITY FLOURISHED AFTER MOVING TO A SKI ACADEMY IN OREGON. HE BEGAN EXPERIMENTING. go to school, ﬁnish his homework, and still spend as much time as he felt he needed at Perfect North. It was time to focus. Linda and his dad, Chris, were always supportive, Goepper says, but they didn’t push it. Linda says their philosophy with all four of their children was to let them ﬁnd their own path and passion and learn from their own mistakes. They provided parental guidance, Linda says, but not mandates. Goepper appreciates he wasn’t pushed to ski. “I know too many kids who were messed up by their parents because they pushed them too hard and they burned out,” he says. His parents encouraged his competitive nature. “Even when I’d have little tantrums on the snow,” he laughs. By early high school, Goepper was clearly the ski stud of southern Indiana. But he wanted more—the toughest slopes, the most challenging jumps, the best instructors, and a new set of friends who’d push him past his limits. He found several ski 8 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

Wilson, and a second invite to participate in a water rail jam competition in San Jose, California. When he won, Goepper was offered a full scholarship at Windells Ski Academy in Oregon. “The biggest thing with Nick wasn’t the tricks,” Mike Hanley, his Windells Academy coach recalls. “It was the crashes he was taking. They were spectacular, but he kept getting up and trying. It’s that determination that has allowed him to accomplish what he has.” Hanley, who was one of those judges at the San Jose water rail jam, laughs when he recalls Goepper’s ﬁrst year at Windells (which has been renamed Wy’East Mountain Academy) in 2009. “He hated me,” he says matter-of-factly. “These action sports are lifestyle sports, and so much of what these skiers do is tied to their personality and their core as a human being. You tell someone that they’re doing something wrong? It’s kind of like telling someone

they don’t have the right eye color.” Goepper won’t admit he “hated” Hanley, who also taught humanities at the academy. But he does say the first year was rough. He had expected a glamorous ski resort with groomed runs, high tech classrooms, a nice lodge, and lots of kids his age who were laser-focused on skiing. “Yeah, I didn’t know that it rains like nine months out of the year in Oregon and there were going to be only about eight other students in my class and most of them were there because their parents were rich and they just wanted to have a good time,” he recalls. He was a 15-year-old Midwestern boy far from home and very serious about his sport. He wondered if he’d made a mistake. He hadn’t. Windells, he says, is where he learned to become a champion skier. His body developed, but more importantly his creativity flourished. He began experimenting with new jumps off the ramp and rails. He worked on the trampoline and with inline skates. He learned to surf and mountain bike. But all of it was designed, purposefully, to develop muscles and coordination that would help him on the snow. Linda noticed that the focus was extending to the classroom. “I remember talking to him when he was in Europe with Mike [Hanley] and they’d spent the whole day discussing the Protestant Reformation,” she says, laughing. “I thought to myself, Hmmm, I wonder how that went.” Flash forward to 2014 and the Sochi Olympics. Goepper was the two-time defending X Games champion and the consensus favorite to win gold in the firstever Olympic slopestyle competition. He finished third behind two other American skiers in what the press called a red, white, and blue sweep. Winning an Olympic medal is tough, but it doesn’t get any easier when you return home. The media’s appetite is insatiable. So are the corporate sponsors and the public. Goepper and his fellow medalists, Joss Christensen and Gus Kenworthy, hit the road for what seemed like an endless round of interviews, public appearances and photo shoots. It was exhausting and, for Goepper, disorienting. DEPRESSION, WE KNOW NOW, IS A REAL issue. It’s not uncommon among athletes,

NICK GOEPPER IS STILL UP IN THE AIR particularly those who compete in individual sports. But this was 2014, before Simone Biles walked away from the gymnastics competition in Tokyo. Before Olympic swimmers Michael Phelps and Allison Schmitt acknowledged their mental health issues. Golfer Rory McIlroy and basketball great Brittney Griner had not yet opened up about their journeys. In 2014, depression was kept in the dark, to be suffered and treated silently. Broken bones were acceptable; broken minds were not. Goepper was just 20 years old and had spent more than half of his life perfecting his art. He’d taken the world by storm in two straight X Games, when millions of viewers watched in awe at his acrobatics. He was a social media star and had picked up several corporate sponsorships. He was a slamdunk to win the ﬁrst-ever Olympic gold in slopestyle skiing. And, can you believe it, the media gushed, he’s from Indiana! Winning the bronze was a blow, and

it had to have been agony to go on David Letterman, The Today Show, ESPN, and more than 60 other appearances playing the unwanted role as the caboose on the Slopestyle Train. Goepper had trained relentlessly to win, and, man, it was so hard to smile. “Every ounce of your life is on that one moment when you’re competing at the highest level, and then that moment is gone,” says Hanley. “You wake up the next morning and there’s no rapture. It’s over and you come home, and everybody is saying the same thing: Wasn’t that great? And you say ‘yes’ but you don’t really mean it because you can’t tell people you feel like, Well, if that’s as good as life gets.. . ” His voice trails off and you realize that, while it’s Mike Hanley who’s explaining this post-Olympics black hole, he’s really channeling Goepper. Nick isn’t afraid to admit he lost his way. He began to drink heavily and withdraw emotionally from the world. He waited

for nightfall because, he says, that’s when time slowed down and he felt more at peace. He contemplated suicide, even driving to a canyon in Utah where slopestyle skier Jeret “Speedy” Peterson had killed himself in 2011, less than 18 months after winning an Olympic silver medal. Fortunately, Goepper says, he wasn’t “ballsy” enough to follow through. “I didn’t have the right perspective,” he says now. “I thought skiing and my success at skiing was the sole measurement of me as a person. I was a skier, and that’s all I was.” Returning home, Goepper acted out by throwing rocks at passing cars, damaging several. He was charged with criminal mischief. He apologized, made restitution, and entered a diversion program. Then, with the help of the U.S. Olympic Committee, he entered a rehab facility in Texas. Goepper says he’s emerged a better person, understanding he’s not “healed” but in control. He had a relapse after the 2018 games in South Korea, and Linda says

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that episode resulted in doctors determining he suffered from bipolar II disorder. Symptoms aren’t as intense as the bipolar disorder most are familiar with, but it’s a challenging condition that requires mindful monitoring. Linda admits she’s nervous about the weeks following these Olympics, but she’s quick to say Goepper is better prepared today to recognize “the spiral,” as she calls it, and get help. Hanley, who Linda says knows Nick as well as anyone, has a less clinical term for his friend. “He’s an eccentric introvert,” he declares, “and that’s not unusual for those in extreme sports.” Sometimes the extremely introverted personality overcompensates and becomes the wild man. That’s not Goepper. “For years, he seemed like he was always the odd man out, coming from Indiana and living a clean life,” Hanley recalls. “He didn’t do drugs or booze, and he was always one to not brag and just let his accomplishments speak for themselves.”

Goepper says he realizes now that he literally was skiing through life without a plan. He likes to quote Heath Ledger’s Joker from the movie The Dark Knight. “Do I really look like a guy with a plan?” he recites, sounding more like the boy next door than the grotesquely painted villain hovering over Harvey Dent’s hospital bed.“You know what I am? I’m just a dog chasing cars. I wouldn’t know what to do with one if I caught it.” Truth is, Goepper has already caught a dog—just not the dog, which is that elusive Olympic gold medal. The dog he’s caught is peace, perspective, and the beginnings of a plan for his life on the snow and off. “I’m really proud of him,” Linda says. “He’s been through a lot, but he’s so much better now. He’s been exposed to a lot more suicides than anyone his age should, and that takes a toll. But he’s seeing a counselor, living healthy, and he’s as happy as I’ve ever seen him.” Goepper has his own playland behind his Salt Lake City home that captures his

love of life. It’s a replica of his backyard in Lawrenceburg, with a 15-foot-tall ski ramp, a trampoline, basketball court, climbing wall, skateboard track, and ramps and rails. It’s a popular meeting place for the kids in the neighborhood who he lets in, but only if they come to his front door ﬁrst and agree to strictly obey his safety rules. “I even have my picture on the fence,” he laughs. “I call it Goepperland, and the kids love it. I just make sure none of their parents are lawyers.” In one of his many entertaining Instagram posts, Goepper is standing at the bottom of a run, shirtless with arms outstretched. Three skiers in succession barrel at him off camera, braking hard and inundating him in clouds of snow. A high-pitched “woo-hoo” is all you hear before he turns toward the camera with the look of a guy who, at heart, is still that toddler joyously crawling on his parents’ deck rail. And like that toddler, Goepper is again completely comfortable in his own (chilly) skin.

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NOT IN ANYONE’S BACKYARD? CONTINUED FROM PAGE 63

Duke initially estimated the project would be completed by 2018, but community backlash held it up, with a drawnout application process that involved the community clamoring for more public participation and an eight-month delay at the company’s request. After a three-day hearing in Columbus, the Ohio Power Siting Board granted Duke a certiﬁcate to build in November 2019. The board included the chair of the Public Utilities Commission of Ohio, Sam Randazzo, who stepped down in 2020 after becoming ensnared in the House Bill 6 bribery

nity rallied, Duke scaled down the size of the pipeline from 30 inches to 20, pressurizing it up to 400 pounds per square inch instead of its initial 600 psi maximum. The company’s then-president of Ohio and Kentucky, Jim Henning, announced that “based on the 2,900 comments we received, we think we have put forth the best solution for the community.” Newman says the Ohio Power Siting Board got a slap on the wrist from the state supreme court for not following its own rules, which perhaps will improve the process for future pipeline applications. He’s talking about the segment of Chief Justice Maureen O’Connor’s opinion that agreed with NOPE, Reading, and Blue Ash. (Evendale exited the case before the court made its ruling.) She said Duke had not provided all of the materials required in the state application to prove it had fully investigated the route ultimately chosen by the Ohio Power Siting Board. “While an agency has a certain amount of discretion in adopting

THE PIPELINE, SAYS DUKE ENERGY’S SALLY THELEN, IS ABOUT “HAVING THE ABILITY TO UPGRADE INFRASTRUCTURE WITHOUT TAKING PEOPLE OUT OF SERVICE.” scandal; FirstEnergy Corp. admitted to giving him millions of dollars in consulting fees and bribes. NOPE and others responded with a formal request for a rehearing, arguing that Duke hadn’t done its due diligence related to required details of the pipeline route OPSB selected—not Duke’s preferred route, but an alternate one. The OPSB said no to a new hearing, and NOPE members and the communities of Blue Ash, Reading, and Evendale appealed that decision to the Ohio Supreme Court. The court accepted the case but did not put a stay on construction, so Duke kept building. In September 2021, the court concurred with the Ohio Power Siting Board that Duke proved it needed to build the pipeline. NOPE may have lost the pipeline war in the end, but group member Jared Newman, a Blue Ash resident, says the movement prevailed in a few ways. After the commu8 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

rules to carry out the legislative objective, agencies should not be permitted to ‘pick and choose’ which rules they will follow,” her opinion reads. “Failing to be consistent in the execution of administrative rules affects the citizens of our state and does a disservice to our system of government.” Still, the court decided that Reading, Blue Ash, and NOPE had not proven they were harmed by the state agency’s error and concurred with its decision that Duke should be granted a certiﬁcate to build. DUKE’S REASONS FOR NEEDING TO build the Central Corridor haven’t changed since the beginning, says Sally Thelen, the company’s longtime local spokesperson. “It has always been about us needing to retire the propane caverns and needing to balance our supply in our system and to have the ability to upgrade infrastructure without having to take people out of service,” she

says. “Without this kind of pipeline down the backbone of the county, we wouldn’t have been able to do that.” The Ohio Power Siting Board, too, placed retiring the 60-year-old propane peaking stations—another name for the caverns— at the top of its reasons for approval. Thelen says Duke has operated the stations, which are located hundreds of feet underground, about 10 days each year to supplement the region’s natural gas supply—usually on the coldest days when natural gas demands are high. “We would lose 50,000 customers if we were to lose a propane cavern,” she says. “These are antiquated technology that we need to get off of our system so we aren’t reliant, frankly, on something we don’t have a lot of control over.” If something went wrong with one of the limestone caverns, it would need to be retired immediately, Thelen says, which could cause long outages. “I wouldn’t want to be the somebody who has to ﬁgure out which 50,000 customers aren’t going to get gas.” As for safety measures on the pipeline itself, Thelen says Duke has gone beyond what’s required, including doubling the thickness of C314V’s steel walls. The company X-rayed every weld and will monitor the pipeline 24/7 with scheduled inspections, she says. In its initial application to the state, the public utility company promised to keep records for all repairs, inspections, and patrols. In addition, Thelen says, Duke installed remote control shut-off valves every 2.5 miles along the pipeline and in strategic locations to be able to shut it down more quickly in case of a leak. The pipeline will be marked as close to the ground as is practical, which is standard, but the company also installed warning strips in the dirt above the pipeline so that anyone who might dig should hit the warning strip ﬁrst. Pipelines are quite safe in the U.S., says Michelle Michot Foss, a fellow in energy, minerals, and materials at Rice University’s Baker Institute for Public Policy. Being underground, for one, protects them better than other forms of our energy infrastructure. “For the most part, all of our system is state of the art,” Foss says, explaining that the U.S. began regulating public utilities early on and the result was a fairly stan-

dardized and regulated industry. If you look hard at the data, she says, ruptures or explosions usually occur because of an outside force like construction or an earthquake. It’s almost never a failure of the pipeline itself. “It is always, always injury to the pipeline, and homeowners are some of the worst,” says Foss. “That campaign to Call 811 Before You Dig was one of the best inventions ever.” NONE OF THESE STEPS REALLY BRING any comfort to the Feldmans, who live on the pipeline route and spent six months of 2021 dealing with construction noise and dust. By the pipeline’s mid-December wrap-up, nine months into construction, 40 complaints had been logged, including litter from construction workers and air quality concerns. The Feldmans say it wasn’t just the love for their home that they lost. “This whole process has destroyed my faith in government and destroyed my faith in democracy,” says Justin Feldman. His community of Reading did fight all the way to the Ohio Supreme Court, but in the end Feldman says he feels like the entire process was rigged. He was a little guy, powerless to stop any of it. It drives him nuts, too, that as a Duke customer he’ll help pay for the project. Duke originally estimated the project would cost $110 million, though Thelen says the company will have a final figure in the spring when all work is completed; she doesn’t yet know how much of the cost will start showing up on customers’ bills or when. Duke will submit its total project costs to the Public Utilities Commission of Ohio, which will determine what is recoverable for company. That amount will then be spread out over months or years to customers, Thelen says. Rosen, from NOPE, says nothing will convince him that the Hamilton County outcomes weren’t predetermined despite the hearings and court consideration. But both he and Newman say they’d lead the fight again. “If somebody sent me a postcard telling me a pipeline was going through my backyard, I’d do the same thing again,” says Rosen. “It’s about protecting yourself and protecting others around you.” M A R C H 2 0 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 8 7

THE LYTLE PARK HOTEL IS PROUD TO DEBUT THE WINE & FOOD SERIES: A new annual event featuring an array of the world’s most celebrated wines, complemented by the exquisite 4-course culinary creation of Subito Executive Chef, Joseph Helm. Surrounded by the beautiful charm of The Lytle Park Hotel, discover the timeless magic of beloved wineries such as Far Niente, Taub Family Vineyards and more.

Scan the QR code to explore dates this February - April and secure your tickets for these exceptional evenings.

D NE

KOREAN FRIED CHICKEN IN WALNUT HILLS P. 90

COCKTAILS AT ANJOU P. 92

ARTISINAL VINEGARS P. 92

MID-CITY MEATS P. 94

DOG EAT DOG The Brown Dog Café’s main dining room offers standard four-top tables but you should opt for the cozy high-back booths for two if you can snag one.

PH OTO G R A PH BY C ATIE V I OX

M A R C H 2 0 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 8 9

TABLESIDE WITH...

TAKEOUT HERO

SANCHEZ THOMAS

THE OWNER OF JUICE’D-TOX has big plans for the future. How did you get started with Juice’dtox Juicery? After I gained a “freshman 45.” I came home [from college] and I instantly got into the gym and started doing Herbalife. I didn’t like the taste of Herbalife shakes and wanted a product I could get behind. At the time, I had no idea what that would be. I just knew I wanted to help people get healthy. How long have you been making juices under this brand? Three years. I rebranded on my birthday. I ﬁgured if this was going to be my brand, I had to level up on the name, bottles, logo, marketing, and juicer!

Turn It Up! CINCINNATI HAS PLENTY OF BREWERIES, AND ATTACHED TO MORE THAN A FEW OF THEM? Traditional barbeque joints. Which is exactly why Mapi De Veyra and Kam Siu of DOPE! Asian Street Fare chose to open Decibel Korean Fried Chicken in the kitchen space next to Esoteric Brewing in Walnut Hills. As one of only a very limited number of places in town that currently serves fried chicken of this tasty variety, they knew their food would be different and that it’d be freakin’ delicious with good local beer. De Veyra, head chef at the venture, had long been an impassioned fan of the dish—which is lighter and crispier than the American version due in large part to a double-frying process—first experiencing it as a youngster in the Philippines and subsequently featuring Korean fried chicken when he worked as chef at Quan Hapa. Decibel’s menu keeps things simple, offering wings, tenders, and drumsticks in one of four sauces (dry spice, garlic soy, spicy, or Gochujang BBQ). No matter your flavor, you’re sure to savor that crispy skin with its distinctly airy crunch. The restaurant also features a Korean fried corn dog and mozzarella sticks, drizzled with fly sauce and gochujang BBQ sauce, and topped with green onion and furikake seasoning for a touch of umami. Don’t sleep on the sides. Decibel Korean The seaweed salad and the waffle fries with dry spice are great, but Fried Chicken, 922 E. McMillan St., Walnut it’s the kimchi that really cranks up the volume on a quick takeout Hills, (513) 429-5002, decibelchicken.com meal. — R O D N E Y W I L S O N 9 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

What’s your favorite juice creation? I’m constantly looking for my next big creation, but I honestly think Cashew Crazy is my favorite. It’s a nut Mylk. Lactose free and tasty! After that, it’s Nipsey Blue. The color is unmatched. What are your best sellers? Pineapples with Attitude and Purple Rain & Watermelon Vibez have been the favorites. Where do you see Juice’d-tox going in the future? I’m looking at joining Findlay Market and getting into the brick-and-mortar program. The bigger goal though: Juice’d-tox will have a truck that will sell juices, treats, and vegan/vegetarian bites. After that I want to franchise a storefront and have one in every major city. — A I E S H A D . L I T T L E Juice’d-tox, juicedtox.com Read a longer conversation with Sanchez at cincinnatimagazine.com

PH OTO G R A PH BY C H RI S VO N H O LLE / ILLUSTR ATIO N BY C H R I S DA N G E R

As Ohio’s longest continually operating business, we ﬁnd inspiration in the rich agricultural heartland we call home and take pride in using locally sourced farm-fresh ingredients, including some from our very own farm!

GoldenLamb.com | (513) 932-5065

HIGH SPIRITS

Drink Queen

This East Walnut Hills spot gives craft cocktails the royal treatment. WANKY BAR ANJOU IS NAMED FOR MARGARET of Anjou, wife of King Henry VI, who took charge when Henry went mad. “Margaret of Anjou embodies the elements we were looking for in a name,” owner Chris Wolfe explains. “When thinking about the design, aesthetics, and menu program for the bar, we wanted a feminine name that conveyed elegance and strength while having ties to Europe.” The establishment prides itself on featuring familiar flavors reintroduced through cocktail offerings. It’s a living document, constantly evolving based on seasonality. And while the place offers a full bar, boutique wines, and local beers, you can’t stop by without trying one of their fresh craft cocktails. Start off with the fan favorite She-Wolf, a refreshingly light gin drink with elderflower and herbal liqueurs. Looking for something savory? The Benedetto Alfieri is made with gin, bell pepper, shallots, lemon, pisco, yellow chartreuse, and Campari. Finally, don’t skip the delicious Caffé Elena for a little pick me up, featuring cold brew from local coffee shop Urbana Café. Cocktails have all ingredients listed, along with descriptors to help identify flavors and illustrations to aid in understanding what type of drink you’re ordering. You’ll feel like a boss. Just like Margaret.

—MARIELLE TROT TA Anjou, 2804 Woodburn Ave., East Walnut Hills, (513) 221-1095, anjoucinci.com

FIELD NOTES

RAMP IT UP

This small-batch vinegar maker re-ups on a seasonal favorite. —AIESHA D. LITTLE

9 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

This spring, The MadHouse Vinegar Co. will release another batch of its seasonal Ramp Vinegar, which includes pawpaw, persimmon, and spicebush. Part of the artisanal vinegar maker’s “Appalachian flavor series,” the specialty flavor has been out of stock since last summer. “Our range of flavors and the quality of our seasonal vinegars are pretty solid,” says MadHouse cofounder Richard Stewart, whose business partner Justin Dean began experimenting with malt vinegar in 2014. “We focus on flavors that shine on their own—spicebush, ramp, banana, basil, and cucumber. That appeals to a whole lot of folks who understand the value of vinegar as one of the foundational blocks of good food and an essential The MadHouse Vinegar pantry item.” Stewart and Dean are kicking around a few new flavors for Co., 2872 Lawrenceburg Rd., North Bend, (513) 967this year, including banana balsamic and rice wine (a partnership with the 1106, goodvinegar.com folks at local soy sauce brand CinSoy).

PH OTO G R A PH BY L A N C E A D K IN S / ILLUSTR ATION BY J E SSI C A D U N H A M

Try these Ohio wineries this spring Fulton Grove Winery

Olde Schoolhouse Vineyard & Winery LLC

We make small batch wines from premium single vineyard sources in Ohio and California, including our own. Our location is bucolic and peaceful and located just 20 minutes from downtown Cincinnati. Regular hours are Saturdays 1-5pm, with reservations for groups at other times. Check our facebook page for event announcements.

9LVLW 3UHEOH &RXQW\ōV ƓUVW DQG RQO\ ZLQHU\ ORFDWHG LQ DQ RULJLQDO ōV one-room brick schoolhouse. ([SHULHQFH WKH EHDXWLIXO WDVWLQJ URRP IHDWXULQJ LQWHUQDWLRQDOO\ DZDUG ZLQQLQJ ZLQHV PDGH RQ VLWH 2YHU KDQG FUDIWHG ZLQHV DYDLODEOH 5HOD[ DQG HQMR\ 3UHEOH &RXQW\ōV ƓQHVW winery. 152 State Route 726 Eaton, OH 45320 (937) 472-WINE (9463) oshwinery.com

Eaton, Ohio

Vinoklet Winery & Restaurant

3834 Fulton Grove Rd Cincinnati, OH 45245 (513) 275-8368 or (513) 444-6020 thefultongrovewinery.com fultongrovewinery@gmail.com

Heineman’s Winery Heineman Winery, now in its 5th generation is Ohio’s oldest familyowned winery. Take a ferry trip to Putin-Bay and enjoy a bottle of wine and a cheese plate in our beautiful wine garden. We are also home to Crystal Cave, the world’s largest Celestite geode! Tours daily, early May-end of September. Call the winery for more details.

Vinoklet Winery is perched atop picturesque rolling hills. A glassedenclosed solarium and spacious gazebo provide a panoramic view of the surrounding vineyards. A unique atmosphere for wedding ceremonies, receptions, rehearsal dinners, family parties, banquets, and corporate events. Please check the website for hours and events.

978 Catawba Avenue Put-in-Bay, OH 43456 (419) 285-2811 heinemanswinery.com

11069 Colerain Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45252 (513) 385-9309 vinokletwines.com

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Visit us today, order your free Ohio Wine Guide at (614) 728-6438

TRY THIS

PILE IT ON

he Mid-City Plate, which consists of a frankfurter, pork belly, and pork loin with potatoes, sauerkraut, and spicy brown mustard, is appropriately German given Mid-City Restaurant’s proximity to Overthe-Rhine. Imagine a dish born of bacon and a Sunday roast. That’s the pork belly. Each bite melts in the mouth, due in large part to the swirled fat. The pork loin is juicy, tender, and perfectly salty. Each velvety bite of the frankfurter is savory in a way the common hot dog can only dream of being. The horseradish in the brown mustard is a surprise, but there’s no lingering heat, and the potatoes—sweet, bite-sized breaks from the meat—taste even better after a dip. All together, it’s a timeless Mid-City Restaurant 40 E. Court St., downkind of tasty. — M . L E I G H H O O D town, midcitycinti.com T

9 4 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

PHOTOGRAPH BY LANCE ADKINS

APR. 26–29

AT THE CINCINNATI CLUB

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Experience Savor: Chef’s Table, a fresh take on our classic dinner series. Safely #savorthedate with us and support our favorite local restaurants while enjoying a unique ﬁve-course dinner. Limited tickets available. CINCINNATIMAGAZINE.COM/SAVOR

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WHERE TO EAT NOW

AMERICAN 96 BARBECUE 100 CAJUN/CARIBBEAN 101 CHINESE 101 ECLECTIC 102 FRENCH 105 INDIAN 105 ITALIAN 105 JAPANESE 107 KOREAN 108 MEDITERRANEAN 108 MEXICAN 108 SEAFOOD 109 STEAKS 109 THAI 110 VIETNAMESE 111

DINING GUIDE CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S

dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all

tating soup and quiche roster that’s popular at noon. Fried chicken? Check. Quesadillas and other starters? Yep. An assortment of burgers? Present, including turkey and veggie versions. Casual food rules the day but the surprise is Brontë Bistro’s lineup of adult beverages, which elevates the place above a basic bookstore coffeeshop. The regular drinks menu includes such mainstays as Hemingway’s Daiquiri, a tribute to the author who drank them (often to excess).

AMERICAN THE BIRCH

On any given evening, guests nibble at spicy hummus served with French breakfast radishes and pita bread while sipping slightly spumante glasses of Spanish Txakolina. And while the dinner menu reads strictly casual at first glance—soups, salads, and sandwiches—the preparation and quality is anything but. An endive salad with candied walnuts, Swiss cheese, crispy bacon lardons, and an apple vinaigrette surpassed many versions of the French bistro classic. And both the Brussels sprouts and Sicilian cauliflower sides refused to play merely supporting roles. Both were sensational studies in the balance of sweet, spicy, and acidic flavors. 702 Indian Hill Rd., Terrace Park, (513) 8315678, thebirchtp.com. Lunch and dinner Tues– Sat. MCC, DS. $

BOOMTOWN BISCUITS & WHISKEY

Boomtown leans hard into the Gold Rush theme: prospector-style overall aprons on servers, bluegrass tunes humming, and rustic decor details. And the dense grub isn’t for the faint of heart. Arrive with an empty belly, ready for a carbo load. The biscuits are all they’re cracked up to be, and the gravy’s not playing around, either. Sample its biscuits and gravy styles with a gravy ﬂight. Or try The Yukon, an anytime breakfast sandwich, featuring fried chicken on par with the best the city has to offer. By the end of the meal, you’ll feel a little out of place without your own denim getup.

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit. To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

OPEN UP

OpenTable named downtown’s Sotto and Over-theRhine’s Pepp & Dolores as two of its “Top 100 Restaurants in America for 2021.” The list highlights eateries with “creative dishes, unparalleled hospitality, and one-of-a-kind dining experiences for all occasions.” The Italian restaurants were the only two Ohio eateries to make the list.

opentable.com/lists/ top-100-2021

1201 Broadway St., Pendleton, (513) 3812666; 9039 U.S. Route 42, Suite H, Union, (859) 384-5910, boomtownbiscuitsandwhiskey. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues–Sat. Breakfast and lunch Sun. MCC. $

BRONTË BISTRO

You might think this is a lunch-only spot where you can nosh on a chicken salad sandwich after browsing next door at Joseph-Beth Booksellers. But this Norwood eatery feels welcoming after work, too. The dinner menu features entrées beyond the ro-

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2692 Madison Rd., Norwood, (513) 396-8970, josephbeth.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $

BROWN DOG CAFÉ

If you haven’t had a plate of Shawn McCoy’s design set in front of you, it’s about time. Many of the menu’s dishes show his knack for the plate as a palette. A trio of stout day boat diver scallops—exquisitely golden from pan searing—perch atop individual beds of uniformly diced butternut squash, fragments of boar bacon, and shavings of Brussels sprout. The eye for detail and contrasts of colors and textures belongs to someone who cares for food. 1000 Summit Place, Blue Ash, (513) 794-1610, browndogcafe.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Fri, brunch and dinner Sat, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $$

COPPIN’S

With wine on tap and an extensive local beer list, Coppin’s is an ideal place to meet for drinks. In addition to plenty of Kentucky bourbon, much of the produce, meat, and cheese comes from local growers and producers. House-cured meat and cheese from Kenny’s Farmhouse and cheese from Urban Stead populate the “Artisan Cheese and Charcuterie Board,” which dresses up the main attractions with honey, dijon mustard, house pickles, and Sixteen Bricks purple barley bread. The mussels—made with seasonally rotating sauces and chorizo from Napoleon Ridge Farms in Gallatin County—were served with a peppery tomato sauce, perfect for sopping up with bread. The seven-ounce Sakura Farms Wagyu rib eye with wild mushrooms, roasted parsnip, and beef jus is a must have. Or try the striped bass with grape farro roasted broccolini and mussel cream sauce. 638 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 905-

KEY: No checks unless specified. AE American Express, DC Diners Club DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V $ = Under $15 $$$ = Up to $49 $$ = Up to $30 $$$$ = $50 and up Top 10

= Named a Best Restaurant March 2020.

6600, hotelcovington.com/dining/coppins. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

COZY’S CAFÉ & PUB

On a visit to England, Jan Collins discovered the “cozy” atmosphere of London restaurants built in historic houses. She brought that warm, comfortable feeling back to the United States in opening Cozy’s. Though the atmosphere in the restaurant is reminiscent of Collins’s London travels, the food remains proudly American. The produce in virtually every dish is fresh, seasonal, and ﬂavorful. The 12-hour pork shank stands out with its buttery grits and root vegetable hash, along with a portion of tender meat. And when it comes down to the classics, from the biscuits that open the meal to carrot cake at the end, Cozy’s does it right. 6440 Cincinnati Dayton Rd., Liberty Twp., (513) 644-9364, cozyscafeandpub.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. $$$

THE EAGLE OTR

The revamped post office at 13th and Vine feels cozy but not claustrophobic, and it has distinguished itself with its stellar fried chicken. Even the white meat was pull-apart steamy, with just enough peppery batter to pack a piquant punch. Diners can order by the quarter, half, or whole bird—but whatever you do, don’t skimp on the sides. Bacon adds savory mystery to crisp corn, green beans, and edamame (not limas) in the succotash, and the crock of mac and cheese has the perfect proportion of sauce, noodle, and crumb topping. The Eagle OTR seems deceptively simple on the surface, but behind that simplicity is a secret recipe built on deep thought, skill, and love. 1342 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 802-5007, eaglerestaurant.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

EMBERS

The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asian-inspired (crabcakes); fashionable ingredients are namechecked (micro-greens and truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; Kobe beef on sushi rolls sidles up to steaks of corn-fed prime; non-steak ICON BY JESSICA DUNHAM

entrées (Chilean sea bass or seared scallops with mushroom risotto and broccolini) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party. 8170 Montgomery Rd., Madeira, (513) 984-8090, embersrestaurant.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$$$

GREYHOUND TAVERN Back in the streetcar days, this roughly 100-year-old roadhouse was at the end of the Dixie Highway line, where the cars turned around to head north. The place was called the Dixie Tea Room then, and they served ice cream. The fried chicken came along in the 1930s, and they’re still dishing it up today. Families and regulars alike pile in on Mondays and Tuesdays for the fried chicken dinner. While the juicy (never greasy) chicken with its lightly seasoned, crisp coating is the star, the side dishes—homemade biscuits, cole slaw, green beans, mashed potatoes, and gravy—will make you ask for seconds. Call ahead no matter what night you choose: There’s bound to be a crowd. Not in the mood for chicken? Choose from steaks, seafood, sandwiches, and comfort food options that include meatloaf and a Kentucky Hot Brown. Or just try the onion rings. You’ll wonder where onions that big come from. 2500 Dixie Highway, Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3767, greyhoundtavern.com. Lunch and dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

MR. GENE’S DOGHOUSE Cumminsville is home to arguably the best hot chili cheese mett and chocolate malt in Greater Cincinnati. A family owned business that began as a simple hot dog stand more than 50 years ago, Mr. Gene’s still attracts lines of loyal customers at its windows. Can’t stand the heat? Order the mild chili mett—more ﬂavor, fewer BTUs. And if you still haven’t embraced Cincinnati-style coneys, try the Chicago-style hot dog with pickles, onions, relish, mustard, tomato, and celery salt; a barbecue sandwich; or wings (a sign proclaims “So hot they make the devil sweat”). Although the chocolate malt is the biggest seller, we love the $3.25 pineapple shake, made with real pineapple. 3703 Beekman St., South Cumminsville, (513) 541-7636, mrgenesdoghouse.com. Open Feb–Dec for lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $

GOOSE & ELDER The third restaurant from chef Jose Salazar, Goose & Elder is a more everyday kind of joint compared to his others. The prices are lower, and most of the dishes, from burgers to grits, are familiar. Salazar’s menus have always hinted that the chef had a fondness for, well, junk food. But junk food is only junk if it is made thoughtlessly. Everything here is made with little twists, like the cumin-spiced potato chips and delicate ribbons of housemade cucumber pickles with a sweet rice wine vinegar. Even the fries, crinkle cut and served with “goose sauce,” a mildly spiced mayonnaise, are wonderfully addictive. The restaurant demonstrates that what we now consider “fast food” can be awfully good if someone makes it the old-fashioned, slow way. 1800 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 579-8400, gooseandelder.com. Mon & Wed–Fri, dinner Mon & Wed– Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

IVORY HOUSE The menu here generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish ﬂavors, but simply pays attention to enough little things to make the results unusually good. The Wagyu Frisco is basically a cheeseburger, but the exceptional tomme from Urban Stead gives it that extra something. The cocktails are things you’ve probably seen before, but everything—from the bourbon rhubarb sour to the Queen City’s Bees Knees—had an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like a rhubarb honey syrup or the raspberry shrub. Even when an ingredient seems out of left ﬁeld, like the burnt grapefruit hot sauce on the pork belly and tenderloin, it never tastes as unusual as it sounds. Tthe hot sauce is just a hint of sweet citrusy spice that melts into the grits—a softly intriguing element rather than a slap in the face. Ivory House also has an excellent brunch. 2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 389-0175, ivoryhousecincy.com. Lunch Wed–Fri, dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

MIGHTY GOOD With a kitchen full of students from the Findlay Culinary

Training Program, this “meat and three” makes food good enough that everyone involved can hang their chef’s hats on. (Served in a small skillet so it stays hot and slightly creamy throughout the meal, the mac and cheese casserole would be the favorite dish at any church potluck.) At $11 for an entrée and three sides, Mighty Good offers one of the best values, not just in Over-the-Rhine, but in all of Greater Cincinnati. 1819 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 263-6893, mightygoodotr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues-Sat. MCC. $$

THE NATIONAL EXEMPLAR The classics are here—prime rib with horseradish and au jus; liver and onions; an eight-ounce ﬁlet with bernaise— plus some new favorites, including short rib pasta. Or have breakfast, English-style: fried eggs, bacon, sausage, stewed beans, roasted tomatoes, and buttered toast. The dinner menu also features burgers, risotto, pasta, seafood, and plenty more lighter options. 6880 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 271-2103, nationalexemplar.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

THE NORTHSTAR CAFÉ In Northstar’s ﬁrst outpost beyond the Greater Columbus area, the space itself reﬂects the ethos of the food: warm and comfortable, but still modern and fresh. The dinner and cocktail menus are fab, as is the large bar. But breakfast is worth waking up early for. Take the mushroom frittata, made with meaty mushrooms, caramelized sweet onions, and Gruyère. The portions are no joke—that frittata comes with breakfast potatoes and a dense, perfectly crumbly-but-moist housemade biscuit—yet it doesn’t feel gluttonous or excessive. In large part that’s due to the freshness (e.g., the sausage made in-house daily) and the abundance of healthy options. One of our favorites: the shooting star juice, a balanced blend of carrot, ginger, orange, and lemon. 7610 Sloan Way, Liberty Township, (513) 759-0033, thenorthstarcafe.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

OTTO’S Chef/owner Paul Weckman opened Otto’s, named after his father-in-law, with $300 worth of food and one employee—himself. Weckman’s food is soothing, satisfying, and occasionally, too much of a good thing. His tomato pie is beloved by lunch customers: Vine-ripe tomatoes, fresh basil, and chopped green onions packed into a homemade pie shell, topped with a cheddar cheese spread, and baked until bubbly. Weckman’s straightforward preparations are best. The shrimp and grits with sauteed shrimp spinach, mushrooms, Cajun beurre blanc atop a fried grit cake, short ribs braised in red wine and herbs, served over mashed potatoes with green beans and caramelized baby carrots that will bring you the comfort of a home-cooked meal. This is, at its heart, a neighborhood restaurant, a place with its own large, quirky family. 521 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-6678, ottosonmain. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Fri, brunch and dinner Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

QUATMAN CAFÉ The quintessential neighborhood dive, Quatman’s sits in the shadow of the Our Lady of the Holy Spirit Center, serving up a classic bar burger. Look elsewhere if you like your burger with exotic toppings: This half-pound of grilled beef is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle. Sometimes cheese. The no-frills theme is straightforward and appealing. A menu of standard sandwich fare and smooth mock turtle soup; beer on tap or soda in cans (no wine or liquor); and checkered tablecloths, serving baskets, and plenty of kitsch is served daily. Peppered with regulars, families, political discussions, and the occasional fool, Quatman’s is far from fancy. But it is fun, fast, and delicious. 2434 Quatman Ave., Norwood, (513) 731-4370, quatmancafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $

RED FEATHER KITCHEN Historically peasant-grade cuts of meat get the full Pygmalion treatment at Red Feather in Oakley, where there’s deep respect for the time and tending necessary to bring a short rib, pork chop, or hanger steak to its full potential. After a quick sear to lock in juices, the steak takes a turn in the wood-ﬁred oven. While primal cuts play a leading role,

the supporting cast is just as captivating. The hot snap of fresh ginger in the carrot soup was especially warming on a winter evening and the crispy skin on the Verlasso salmon acts as the foil to the plump, rich ﬂesh. Service here only improves the experience. 3200 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 407-3631, redfeatherkitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

RED ROOST TAVERN At its best, Red Roost Tavern—located in the Hyatt Regency, downtown—meets its singular challenge with verve: offering a locally sourced sensibility to an increasingly demanding dining public while introducing out-of-town guests to unique Cincinnati foods. Take the goetta, rich pork capturing the earthiness of the steel-cut oats, served as a hash with sweet potatoes and poached eggs. The seasoning added a restrained, almost mysterious hint of black pepper. But the kitchen’s talent seems straightjacketed. Chefs thrive on instincts not covered by the ﬁve senses; restaurants thrive by taking careful risks. Red Roost seems to be struggling to ﬁnd its third eye, and sometimes the entrées don’t live up to their ambitions. 151 W. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 354-4025. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC,DS. $$$

RON’S ROOST They stake their reputation on their fried chicken, serving 10,000 pieces weekly. It takes a few minutes, since each batch is made to order. Ron’s also serves chicken 18 other ways, including chicken and waffles and chicken livers in gravy. It’s all about the chicken here, but that’s not all they have. The menu is ﬁve solid pages of stuff good enough to be called specialties: Oktoberfest sauerbraten, Black Angus cheeseburgers, fried whiteﬁsh on rye, hot bacon slaw, lemon meringue pie (homemade, of course), and the best Saratoga chips this side of Saratoga. 3853 Race Rd., Bridgetown, (513) 574-0222, ronsroost. net. Breakfast Sun, lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

THE SCHOOLHOUSE RESTAURANT An old flag stands in one corner and pictures of Abe Lincoln and the first George W. hang on the wall of this Civil War–era schoolhouse. The daily menu of familiar Midwestern comfort fare is written in letter-perfect cursive on the original chalkboard. Once you order from a woman who bears an uncanny resemblance to your high school lunch lady, the elevated lazy Susan in the center of the table begins to fill up with individual bowls and baskets of corn bread, slaw, salad, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, and vegetables. The deal here is quantity. More mashed potatoes with your fried chicken? More corn bread with your baked ham? You don’t even have to raise your hand. 8031 Glendale-Milford Rd., Camp Dennison, (513) 8315753, theschoolhousecincinnati.com. Lunch Sun, dinner Fri–Sun. MCC, DS. $

SUGAR N’ SPICE This Paddock Hills diner, with a second location in Overthe-Rhine, has been dishing up wispy-thin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals. Breakfast and lunch offerings mix old-hat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line. 4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills; 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 242-3521, eatsugarnspice.com, Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $

SYMPHONY HOTEL & RESTAURANT Tucked into a West 14th Street Italianate directly around the corner from Music Hall, this place feels like a private dinner club. There’s a preferred by-reservation policy. Check the web site for the weekend’s five-course menu, a slate of “new American” dishes that changes monthly. You can see the reliance on local produce in the spring vegetable barley soup. Salads are interesting without being busy, and the sorbets are served as the third course palate cleanser. Main courses of almond-crusted mahi-mahi, flat-iron steak, and a vegetable lasagna hit all the right notes, and you can end with a sweet flourish if you choose the chocolate croissant M A R C H 2 0 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 9 7

Your TICKET includes Full Brunch Buffet and drink tickets good for the Mimosa / Bellini Bar, and/or the Outrageous Garnish-Your-Own Bloody Mary Bar

for more information www.cincinnatimagazine.com/ musicalbrunch

ÕWTFIĝF^ÊX ÖJXY with__

The Story Collective

,WTTĜJ \Ļą :X March 27, 11 am–1 pm AT The cincinnati Museum Center

WHERE TO EAT NOW

bread pudding. 210 W. 14th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-3353, symphonyhotel.com. Dinner Fri & Sat. $$

TANO BISTRO Gaetano Williams’s Loveland bistro is comfortable, with reasonably priced food and amenable service. The menu is tidy—25 or so dishes divided between appetizers, salads, and entrées, plus two or three specials—its flavor profile partially influenced by a childhood growing up in a third generation Italian family. Most of Tano Bistro’s main courses lean toward the comfortable side of American. For instance, Williams serves a stuffed salmon and potato-crusted chicken. The simple roast chicken is also worth a trip to Loveland, sweetly moist beneath its crisp bronze skin.

side salad, garlic mashed potatoes, sauteed swiss chard, and mushroom jus), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple margherita pizza with roma tomatoes, basil, Parmesan, and provolone delivered a ﬁne balance of crunchy crust, sharp cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet. 7565 Kenwood Rd., Kenwood, (513) 984-1905, triobistro. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC. $$$

coming environment that encourages steady customers. A dependable menu and quirky atmosphere appeal to a broad range of diners, from non-adventurous visiting relatives to non-attentive children. Desserts have always been one of the stars: ﬂourless chocolate hazelnut torte, bittersweet, rich and moist; butter rum pudding that would be equally at home on a picnic table or a ﬁnely dressed Michelin-starred table. 738 York St., Newport, (859) 261-9675, yorkstonline. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BARBECUE

THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ

BEE’S BARBEQUE

Classically conceived but casually executed comfort food, including mini-Monte Cristo sandwiches with tangy housemade pimento cheese stuffed into sourdough bread and fried crisp, mac and cheese topped with a Mr. Pibb–braised pulled short rib, and steak and potatoes. Servers are slightly scattered, yet enthusiastic and friendly, with a good grasp of the beverage program.

Wildflower Café is not the sort of place that tries to wow anyone with feats of inventiveness. Its formula is simple but satisfying: lots of mostly local meat and produce, a menu that continuously changes with available ingredients, a nice selection of wine and beer, and well-made, homey food. The small, focused menu has a classic American quality (salads, steaks, burgers) with enough surprises to keep things interesting. Many of the dishes are designed with open spaces to be filled with whatever is available in the kitchen that day, an advantage of an unfussy style. You don’t go to Wildflower expecting a certain kind of perfection; you accept that your favorite dish from last time might be made differently tonight, or no longer available. Like the farmhouse that Wildflower occupies, the imperfections are part of the charm.

You’ll want to get to Bee’s Barbecue in Madisonville early if you want to avoid the line of friendly regulars. The restaurant’s smoker churns out a variety of meats—including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey breast, and two kinds of sausage—so it’s easy to see why they keep coming back. If you enjoy the spicy grease that oozes out of a good chorizo, you’ll love the Cincinnati Hot Link, which tastes like the delicious love child of a chorizo and a hot mett. Word to the wise: Bee’s opens at 11 a.m. and closes when they run out of meat. Understandably, this doesn’t take long.

1212 Springﬁeld Pke., Wyoming, (513) 821-8352, telabarandkitchen.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

207 E. Main St., Mason, (513) 492-7514, wildﬂowermason.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Fri. MCC. $$$

TRIO

YORK STREET CAFÉ

Trio is nothing if not a crowd pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or ﬁlet mignon (with

Five blocks from the Newport riverfront, Terry and Betsy Cunningham have created the sort of comfortable, wel-

204 W. Loveland Ave., Loveland, (513) 683-8266, foodbytano.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

TELA BAR + KITCHEN

OTR

@salazarcincy

Findlay Findlay Market Market @gooseandelder

Downtown Downtown @mitascincy

1 0 0 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

5910 Chandler St., Madisonville, (513) 561-2337, beesbarbecue.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $

ELI’S BBQ Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the MasonDixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s

been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-your-own, and the barbecue is bona ﬁde. 3313 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

SINNERS & SAINTS TAVERN

You won’t leave this Texas smokehouse/sports bar hungry. From the brisket—served with Texas BBQ sauce, white bread, and pickles, or on toasted sourdough—to the chicken thighs, you can’t go wrong with these richly smoked flavors. Several dishes, like the Korean style pork belly, the pulled pork naan tacos, and Bigos stew, draw on global influences, while the sides take flavors back to the country (try the creamy coleslaw, the house-made mac and cheese, and chili-spiced cornbread). The resaurant’s character shines through its decor, which includes hanging hockey memorabilia, pictures of public figures and tables made from real NBA courts. 2062 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 281-4355, sinsaintsmoke.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

WALT’S HITCHING POST

A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-ﬁred in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quick-seared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft ﬂesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s housemade tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together. 3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 360-2222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN BREWRIVER CREOLE

More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’ boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on ﬂuffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying ﬂavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line. 4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch and lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $

SWAMPWATER GRILL

At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, and catfish Po’Boys, as well as a selection of hardwood-smoked meats. 3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067, swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $$

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU

The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning your return trip. 6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, theknottypineonthebayou.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

CHINESE AMERASIA

A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Pot stickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand-shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, tofu, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodle, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts.

“SHOP LIKE A CHEF, DRINK LIKE A SOMMELIER,

GATHER WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY TO CELEBRATE LIFE”

DELICATESSEN NEIGHBORHOOD BAR and PONY KEG “Championing Slow Food; your support goes back into our community, sourcing local, seasonal, sustainable, crafted, artisan products.”

3378 ERIE AVE HYDEPARK, 25208

513-407-8449 DUTCHSCINCY.COM

M A R C H 2 0 2 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M 1 0 1

WHERE TO EAT NOW

521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121 , amerasia.carry-out.com. Lunch Sun–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC. $

CHINESE IMPERIAL INN

The chilies-on-steroids cooking here will have you mopping beads of garlic-laced sweat from your brow. The musky, ﬁrecracker-red Mongolian chicken stabilizes somewhere just before nirvana exhaustion, and aggressively pungent shredded pork with dried bean curd leaves your eyes gloriously glistening from its spicy hot scarlet oil. Even an ice cold beer practically evaporates on your tongue. Do not fear: not all the dishes are incendiary. Try the seafood—lobster, Manila clams, Dungeness and blue crabs, whelk, and oysters—prepared with tamer garlicky black bean sauce, or ginger and green onions. The Cantonese wonton soup, nearly as mild as your morning bowl of oatmeal, is as memorable as the feverish stuff. Sliced pork and shrimp are pushed into the steaming bowl of noodles and greens just before serving. Think comforting, grandmotherly tenderness.

WHAT A PEACH Dessert chain The Peach Cobbler Factory is scheduled to open its ﬁrst location in Ohio this winter. The franchise, known for its cobblers, banana puddings, and cobbler-ﬁlled cinnamon rolls, will be run by Deneen Glenn, owner of local gourmet dessert company NeeNee’s Pretzels.

peachcobblerfactory. com

rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful, especially the strips of lightly pickled cucumber. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors. 8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepacific.kitchen. Lunch and dinner seven days; dim sum Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

RAYMOND’S HONG KONG CAFÉ

11042 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 5636888, chineseimperialinn.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

It has all the elements of your typical neighborhood Chinese restaurant: Strip mall location. General Tso and kung pao chicken. Fortune cookies accompanying the bill. The dragon decoration. But it is the nontraditional aspects of Raymond’s Hong Kong Café that allow it to stand apart. The menu goes beyond standard Chinese fare with dishes that range from Vietnamese (beef noodle soup) to American (crispy Cornish hen). The Portuguese-style baked chicken references Western European inﬂuences on Chinese cuisine with an assemblage of fried rice, peppers, carrots, broccoli, zucchini, and squash all simmering together in a creamy bath of yellow curry sauce. Deciding what to order is a challenge, but at least you won’t be disappointed.

GREAT TANG

11051 Clay Dr., Walton, (859) 485-2828. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

Although the (24-page!) menu features classic dishes in every style, the specialty at Great Tang is the reﬁned coastal cuisine of Zhejiang. If you like spice, you can get still the Sichuanese and Hunanese classics. One dish will hint at the surprises in store for people who are mainly used to Chinese takeout: the lovely Xian cold noodle. The dish is exquisitely layered: the creamy and nutty undertone of sesame paste, mixed with notes of tang and spice, topped with the bright pop of cilantro. The combination of textures is also delightful, with crunches of cucumber and sprouted mung and the softness of the ﬂat noodles. And that tofu! It was wonderfully meaty, with dense layers, substantial and satisfying as a counterpart to the noodles. Be as brave as you are in the mood to be. Ask for some suggestions and prepare to be astonished. 7340 Kingsgate Way, West Chester, (513) 847-6097, greattangohio.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Mon, dim sum Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

ORIENTAL WOK

This is the restaurant of your childhood memories: the showy Las Vegas-meets-China decor, the ebulliently comedic host, the chop sueys, chow meins, and crab rangoons that have never met a crab. But behind the giant elephant tusk entryway and past the goldfish ponds and fountains is the genuine hospitality and warmth of the Wong family, service worthy of the finest dining establishments, and some very good food that’s easy on the palate. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, sea bass, and halibut steamed, grilled, or flash fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger–green onion sauce that accompanies them. Even the chicken lo mein is good. It may not be provocative, but not everyone wants to eat blazing frogs in a hot pot. 317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok.com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$

SICHUAN BISTRO CHINESE GOURMET

Like many Chinese restaurants that cater to both mainstream American and Chinese palates, this strip mall gem uses two menus. The real story here is found in dishes of pungent multi-layered ﬂavors that set your mouth ablaze with fermented peppers and fresh chilies and then just as quickly cool it down with the devilish, numbing sensation of hua jiao, Sichuan pepper. Its numbing effect is subtle at ﬁrst: appetizers of cold sliced beef and tripe, as well as slices of pork belly with a profusion of minced garlic, lean toward the hot and sweet; mapo tofu freckled with tiny fermented black beans and scallions, and pork with pickled red peppers and strips of ginger root, progress from sweet to pungent to hot to salty—in that order. Alternated with cooling dishes—nibbles of rice, a verdant mound of baby bok choy stir-fried with a shovelful of garlic, refreshing spinach wilted in ginger sauce, a simply sensational tea-smoked duck—the effect is momentarily tempered. 7888 S. Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-3123, sichuanbistro.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

UNCLE YIP’S

Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark ﬁn or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 260 items, so you’ll ﬁnd a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs. 10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$

ECLECTIC

THE PACIFIC KITCHEN

The monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Fried Chicken. These slightly bubbly, shatter-crisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang pepper sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven ﬁnish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy

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ABIGAIL STREET

Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu Top 10

have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. New offerings like the duck leg confit, with spicy-sour harissa flavors, firm-tender butternut squash, and perfectly made couscous, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior. The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential 1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BOCA

With its grand staircase, chandelier, and floor-to-ceiling draperies, Boca has an atmosphere of grandeur and refinement. There is a sense of drama not only in the decor but in everything it serves. In some dishes, there is a painterly sense of contrast and surprise, like violet-derived purple sugar beside the pain de Gênes (French almond cake). In others, there is a dramatic suspense, like the whole egg yolk quivering in the center of the Fassone tartare waiting to be broken. While staying mostly grounded in the fundamentals of Italian and French cuisine, Boca has an air of international sophistication that sets its food apart. The hamachi crudo, an old standby on the menu, takes Japanese flavors and gives them new dimensions with grapefruit suprêmes and slivers of shishito pepper. This is food of extraordinary creativity and flair. Top 10

114 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$ Top 10

BOUQUET RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

Normally diners aren’t pleased when a restaurant runs out of something. At Bouquet, though, surprise changes to the menu are simply a sign of integrity. Chef-owner Stephen Williams is serious about using seasonal ingredients, and if the ﬁgs have run out or there is no more chicken from a local farm, so be it. The ﬂavors at Bouquet are about doing justice to what’s available. Preparations are unfussy, complexity coming from within the vegetables and proteins themselves. A tomato salad—wonderfully fresh and vibrant, so you know the tomatoes have just come off a nearby vine—is dressed with chopped shiso, a crimson herb that tastes like a mysterious combination of mint and cilantro. This determination to make something delicious out of what’s on hand, to embrace limitations, gives the food at Bouquet a rustic, soulful quality. 519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetrestaurant.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BRANCH

Located in a huge Art Deco building, formerly a bank, Branch has taken this potentially cavernous and impersonal space and made it intimate. Diners might recognize the vibe from this restaurant group’s first venture, Northside’s The Littlefield. The chef, Shoshannah Anderson, cooks in a mode that we would call “international homestyle,” taking inspiration from the comfort food of many cultures. It maintains a balance between cooking to a higher price point and creating an atmosphere of refinement without losing the informal neighborhood feel. The shrimp and grits—served soupy in a big bowl with an addictively sweet-and-sour green tomato marmalade swirled into the creamy grits—are taken surprising heights. Another notable item is a dish that wouldn’t normally get a mention in a review: the french fries. They demonstrate that food that is usually mindlessly inhaled can be worth savoring if it is made with enough love. ICON BY JESSICA DUNHAM

1535 Madison Rd., East Walnut Hills, (513) 221-2702, eatatbranch.com. Dinner Mon–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

CHÉ

This Walnut Street spot draws on authentic Argentine recipes, including the empanadas. Choose from more than a dozen different crispy, perfectly cinched dough pockets, with ﬁllings ranging from traditional (a mixture of cumin-spiced beef, egg, and olives) to experimental (mushrooms, feta, green onion, and mozzarella). There are also six different dipping sauces to choose from, but you need not stray from the house chimichurri. It complements practically every item on the menu, but particularly the grilled meats, another Argentinian staple. Marinated beef skewers and sausages are cooked on an open-ﬂame grill, imparting welcome bits of bitter char to the juicy meat. 1342 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 345-8838, checincinnati.com. Lunch Tues–Sun , dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

CROWN REPUBLIC GASTROPUB

What makes Crown Republic special isn’t its handful of outstanding dishes. It’s the place’s sheer consistency. No single dish is absolutely mind-blowing or completely original, but when almost everything that comes out is genuinely tasty, the service is always friendly and attentive, and (stop the presses!) the bill is quite a bit less than you expected, you sit up and pay attention. The crab and avocado toast, served on grilled bread with lime juice and slivers of pickled Fresno chiles, is a prime example of what makes Crown Republic tick. The cocktails are equally unfussy and good, like the Tipsy Beet, made with vodka, housemade beet shrub, cucumber, mint, and citrus peel. Crown Republic has a mysterious quality that I can only describe as “good energy.” 720 Sycamore St., downtown, (513) 246-4272, crgcincy.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

DEAR RESTAURANT & BUTCHERY

The concept behind the name for Dear is that the restaurant is a kind of love letter from the team to the guests, to Hyde Park, and to Cincinnati. Occupying the old Teller’s spot on Hyde Park Square, it’s two establishments in one. One side is a full-service butchery that sells housemade sausages, wine, coffee, sandwiches, and take-and-bake offerings and the other is a grand two-story restaurant. Animals, from pigs to Wagyu beef, arrive bi-weekly and are broken down in house, and turned into charcuterie and other cuts that make it into most of Dear’s dishes. The menu is small and focused, with dishes changing weekly and seasonally. This variability means the restaurant is serious about letting the availability of the best ingredients dictate what comes out. And if the dishes turn out to be as good as the sugo, with its tender gnocchi-like dumplings and deliciously crumbly house-made pork sausage, they can serve us whatever they want. 2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, dearrestaurant.com. Dinner Wed–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$$

E+O KITCHEN

The former Beluga space comes alive with a menu that conjoins minimalist Asian with gutsy-cum-earthy Latin. The results are hit-or-miss: while guacamole was pointlessly studded with edamame, the pork belly buns are especially tender. Taco plates are a safe bet, with the “sol” pastor—pineapple coupled with Korean kimchi, bulgogi pork, and cilantro—hitting all the right notes. More adventurous palates may opt for the nuanced ramen—the pork and soy broth teeming with cuts of both pork belly and slow-cooked shoulder, while a superbly poached egg lingers at the edge, awaiting its curtain call. Service is friendly but tends to sputter when it comes to the basics of hospitality. 3520 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 832-1023, eokitchen.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THE GOVERNOR

This Milford restaurant playfully elevates diner classics.

Breakfast is available all day so if you’re looking to greet the morning with decadence, try the ricotta toast, a thick slab of brioche toast smothered in ricotta and fresh, seasonal jams. Sandwiches also get an inventive twist here. The “Governor Tso’s chicken”—a crispy fried chicken breast glazed with a General Tso’s–inspired sauce, topped with coleslaw and served on a toasted sesame seed bun—is a gigantic, happy mess of a sandwich, but the sweet glaze faintly evokes the namesake “General” while letting the sublimely fried chicken lead the charge. Order a side of crinkle cut fries and ask for the housemade Maple Thousand Island dipping sauce. (You’ll thank us later.) 231 Main St., Milford, (513) 239-8298, governordiner.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. Brunch and lunch Sun. MCC. $

THE LITTLEFIELD

Inside a modest 1,500 square-foot space on Spring Grove, just south of Hamilton Avenue, at least 70-odd bourbons behind the bar drive this little restaurant’s philosophy. The menu is meant to be limited, the better to support and celebrate the bottled flavors up front. There are surprises: a faint hint of curry powder deepens the moody cauliflower fritters; skewered golf-balls of mild, peppery ground lamb get a faint crust from the final sear. You’ll also want to order the smoked pork katsu. Panko crusted cutlets of pork, topped with tonkatsu sauce, served with sesame ginger slaw and kewpie mayo. The signature chicken and corn chowder is exactly what you need on a cold winter’s day. 3934 Spring Grove Ave., Northside, (513) 386-7570, littlefieldns.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days, brunch Sun. V, MC. $

MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN

The latest effort from local restaurant juggernaut Thunderdome, owner of the Currito franchise. Order at the counter, then ﬁnd your own table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected. There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chicken tinga, spaghetti pomodoro, a New York Strip steak, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with a satisfying pappardelle with house-made sausage. Brunch is available all day; try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the satisfying avocado benedict. 525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

MASHROOTS

After serving mofongo at Findlay Market for nearly four years, Mashroots opened its ﬁrst brick-and-mortar spot in College Hill this year. For the uninitiated, mofongo is a traditional Puerto Rican dish of mashed fried plantains with garlic and olive oil, typically served with protein and sauce. Here, you can get plantain, yuca, or sweet potato as your root and a protein, like skirt steak or pulled chicken. Top it off with veggies (pinkslaw, vinagrete, citruscarrot) and a sauce (pink mayo, anyone?), and wash it all down with refreshing cocktails made with rum and harder-to-ﬁnd spirits. 5903 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 620-4126, mashroots.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, Lunchand dinner Sun. MCC. $

MELT REVIVAL

In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and the J.L.R. Burger, a black bean or veggie patty served with cheese, tomato, lettuce and housemade vegan mayo. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken melt: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try one of the halvesies, a half-salad, half-soup selection popular with the lunch crowd. 4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 818-8951, meltrevival.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Fri, breakfast, lunch, and dinner Sat, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $

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WHERE TO EAT NOW

METROPOLE

Metropole has been remarkably stable since it opened in 2012. Even when chefs have left, the organization has promoted from within, kept pop-ular dishes on the menu, and maintained a certain vibe, a balance between sophistication and rustic-ity. Its vegetarian fare contains many of its most inventive and delightful creations. The chilled can-taloupe soup has a creamy note from coconut milk and a hint of spice floating in at the end of every bite to balance the subtle, melon-y sweetness. The fancy “candy bar,” with its light and crispy peanut wafers and ring of flourless chocolate cake and caramel, encapsulates Metropole at its best: fun and whimsical, but rooted in careful execution of deep and satisfying flavors. 609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com. Breakfast and dinner seven days, lunch Mon–Fri, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

MITA’S

It’s ﬁtting that chef Jose Salazar named this restaurant after his grandmother, because there is something deeply homey about the food at Mita’s. With a focus on Spanish tapas, it always feels, in the best possible way, like elevated home cooking. Its sophistication is modestly concealed. The ﬂavors are bold and direct, whether the smoky depths of the chimichurri rojo on skewers of grilled chicken or the intensely bright sourness of the pozole verde. In dishes like the mushroom soup, the chef hits every register: the acid of red piquillo peppers to balance the earthy mushrooms, the crisp fried leeks against the delicately creamy soup. But what mainly comes through is the warm-hearted affection a grandmother might have put into a meal for a beloved grandson. It’s the kind of big hug everyone needs from time to time. Top 10

501 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-6482, mitas.co. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

NICHOLSON’S

To remind local diners that they were here before those young dog-toting punks with their exposed brick and crafty ales in Over-the-Rhine, Nicholson’s branded themselves Cincinnati’s “ﬁrst and ﬁnest gastropub,” and revamped the menu to include plenty of snacks and small plates for grazing, and not-quite-brawny, straightforward sandwiches and main dishes. Try the oatmeal crusted trout, bowl of cock-a-leekie soup, or check out the cranberry-apple or Scottish BBQ style burgers or the turkey burger with apple chutney. And the bar’s clubby intimacy makes it easy to belly up and enjoy their impressive collection of single malts or a Scottish stout. 625 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 564-9111, nicholsonspub.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

ORCHIDS AT PALM COURT

The food at Orchids is wonderfully complex, diverse, and surprising. A dish of parsnip soup has a quinoa chip and apple butter, along with salty duck prosciutto, notes of smoke and spice from the espelette pepper at the base of the bowl, and a touch of acid that crept in on the roasted parsnip. In a few dazzling bites it all comes together like a highly technical piece of music. A Southeast Asian–inspired halibut dish, with its green curry paste, adobo, and peanut brittle, breaks out of the restaurant’s traditionally European comfort zone. Aside from the food, part of the pleasure is simply being in the space, enjoying the jazz band, and watching the grace and assurance of the staff as they present the meal. Top 10

35 W. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 564-6465, orchidsatpalmcourt.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

OKTO

This lively mash-up is a telling symbol of Earth+Ocean Restaurant Group’s ﬂexible approach to traditional food. In what other Greek restaurant would the best cocktail be a smoky, chile-laced paloma, normally associated with Mexico? Or would the dish of lamb chops come dressed with gremolata, which we’ve never seen on anything but Italian food? E+O has always prided itself on its eclectic take on regional cuisine and they serve up something similarly

fun and varied here. Those looking for classic Greek food will find plenty to satisfy them. The lamb kebabs, served ground, with the classic roasted tomato on the side; or the spanakopita, which had a lovely flaky crust, not too oily, and a perfectly seasoned balance of feta and spinach in the filling. The fun Okto has with Greek cuisine means there is already plenty that is good, plus plenty of room to grow. 645 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 632-9181, oktocincinnati.com. Lunch & dinner Mon-Sat. MCC. $$

PAMPAS

Much like American food, Argentine cuisine is a melting pot shaped by immigration, particularly from Italy and Germany, and with plenty of meat on the plate. You see that mix in the menu, but Pampas puts parrillada, the Argentine method of cooking over an open flame, front and center. The chimichurri appears throughout the menu, and does wonders wherever it goes. Spicy, tart, and filled with the flavor of oregano, it wakes up the marinated skirt steak. Magnificent desserts deserve special mention. Cabernet pears are cooked in a complex spiced wine reduction that beautifully sets off the sweetness of the fruit. A cinnamon crumble adds texture and a touch of vanilla whipped cream rounds out the whole dish.

all down. Flavors bonded in holy mozzarella, the classic Margherita (tomato, basil, parmesan, and fresh mozz) is ideal comfort pizza. The mushroom pizza starts strong: Mushrooms get the love and attention they deserve, with a generous serving of truffle oil before they join the pizza’s garlic sauce and fresh mozzarella. All of the cocktails rock names inspired by pop tunes and tongue-in-cheek sass, but it’s the Matcha Man (Irish whiskey, Drambuie, honey, matcha, lemon, avocado, and coconut) that cuts through the pizza grease, delivering enough of a punch to prove it means business. 300 E. Seventh St., downtown, (513) 381-1243, rosiescocktailsandpies.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

RUTH’S PARKSIDE CAFÉ

2036 Madison Rd., O’Bryonville, (513) 321-0863, pampascincinnati.com. Brunch Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

The spiritual successor of Mullane’s Parkside Café, Ruth’s brings back the vegetable-forward menu with a few concessions to contemporary tastes. Dinner options now include steaks and heavier, braised entrées. But the stir-fries, beans and rice, pasta, and the traditional option to add a protein to an entrée (tofu, tempeh, chicken, or local chorizo) for a $2 upcharge are all old standards. While dishes are generally hearty, they are rarely too rich, leaving room to freely consider dessert. There are a small selection of baked goods, including a gooey butter cake, homemade fruit pies, and Madisono’s Gelato.

PLEASANTRY

1550 Blue Rock St., Northside, (513) 542-7884, ruthscafe.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

With only 40 seats inside, Daniel Souder and Joanna Kirkendall’s snug but spare OTR gem—they serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner like a true neighborhood spot—features an engaging wine program aimed at broadening your palate alongside small plates that are equally ambitious. Classic technique and fresh produce anchor an approachable menu—“everything” biscuits with cured salmon, burgers, and chicken salad sandwiches are available at lunch, and the cauliflower with sambal is a comforting mash-up of a rich cauliflower-and-coconut-cream schmear topped with a head of sambal-roasted cauliflower, grapefruit segments, toasted cashews, and cilantro. This is not to say that the proteins aren’t something special. Traditionally a much less expensive cut, the small hanger steak was decidedly tender, served with braised cippolini onions and sauteed mushrooms. 118 W. 15th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1969, pleasantryotr.com. Dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Fri–Sun. MCC. $

PONTIAC OTR

Dan Wright’s BBQ dream gets reincarnated as a wing joint and tiki drink emporium. The brisket still shows up on the brisket nachos, and the fried pickles and the silky macand-cheese didn’t go anywhere, but the smoked wings have taken center stage. Choose from one of seven sauce options—BBQ, original, chipotle-mayo, hot garlic, General Tso, Carolina gold, and island jerk—pick your hunger lever (ﬁve, 10, 25, or 60 wings), and chow down. If you’re feeling especially brave, take the wing challenge and consume 10 winges tossed in housemade “super mega ultra hot sauce” in ﬁve mintues, and you’ll get your wings for free and a picture on the wall of fame. 1403 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 579-8500, pontiacbbq.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

THE QUARTER BISTRO

The Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a half-pound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a ﬂavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with papardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy.

SACRED BEAST

Sacred Beast advertises itself as a kind of upscale diner, but the real gems are the oddball dishes that don’t quite ﬁt the diner mold. The menu can be disorienting in its eclecticism: foie gras torchon is next to lobster poutine, and a king salmon is next to a diner breakfast and deviled eggs. Winners are scattered throughout the menu in every category. On the cocktail list, the Covington Iced Tea, a lemon and coffee concoction made with cold brew, San Pellegrino, and vodka is oddly satisfying. The service is good, and there is some ﬂair about the place—including vintage touches, from the facsimile reel-to-reel audio system to the mostly classic cocktails—even within its rather chilly industrial design. In short, go for the late night grub; stay for the elegant, shareable twists on classic snacks. 1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 213-2864, sacredbeastdiner.com. Lunch, dinner, and late night seven days. MCC. $$

SALAZAR

A freewheeling tour through Korean, Moroccan, Italian, and French ﬂavors—and that’s just on one iteration of the ever-evolving menu. Salazar turns out fresh, well-balanced dishes dotted with seasonal surprises: the cauliﬂower steak special (a Moroccan spiced, seared wedge of the cruciferous vegetable complemented by a strong hit of lemon), the chicken liver mousse (so good it deserves its own trophy), and the succulent chicken Milanese (with its musky, sweet-and-sour notes of ground cherry). With its bustling bar and cheek-by-jowl tables, Salazar hums with energy at every meal. 1401 Republic St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 621-7000, salazarcincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SENATE

Ever since it began dishing out its lo-ﬁ eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl of supremely badass hot dogs to the palate-rattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant. Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned fries inspire countless return visits.

6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 271-5400, qbcincy.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

1100 Summit Place Dr., Blue Ash, (513) 769-0099, senateblueash.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

ROSIE’S COCKTAILS & PIES

THE STANDARD

Equipped with clever cocktails and a healthy amount of truffle oil, Rosie’s Cocktails & Pies offers Jersey-style pizza, sandwiches, salads, gelato, and plenty of drinks to wash it

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Owners Paul Weckman and Emily Wolff offer a pared down menu of six small plates (if you include the fries) and ﬁve mains. It’s simple but satisfying, with an interesting Pan-

Asian street food vibe. The two kinds of satay (particularly the lemongrass chicken) and the fried honey sriracha tenders, with an excellent housemade bread-and-butter pickle, are the highlights. In terms of drinks, try the Hot Rod, which has the ﬂavor of kimchi captured in a drink. There is a gochujang (salty, fermented Korean chile paste) simple syrup and a rim of Korean pepper—and the result is wonderful and unique. 434 Main St., Covington, (859) 360-0731, facebook. com/thestandardcov. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $

THE SUMMIT

This “laboratory restaurant” staffed by Midwest Culinary Institute students features a limited but eclectic menu. Soft shell crab goes Latin with black beans, avocado, lime, and chiles. Spanish mackerel is given a Mediterranean twist with yogurt, cucumbers, pickled red onion, and chickpeas. A more traditional pasta dish of hand cut pappardelle with prosciutto, peas, and Parmesan makes an appearance alongside a Kurabota (the pork equivalent of Kobe beef) “hot dog.” Some dishes work better than others: There is redemption in a rustic combination of morels with cream, shallots, and tangy, smoky Idiazábal sheep’s milk cheese. The complex ﬂavor of earth, wood, and char makes this a classic dish for enjoying, not for analyzing. That’s exactly what culinary students should be striving for. 3520 Central Parkway, Clifton, (513) 569-4980, midwestculinary.com. Dinner Thurs–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

TASTE OF BELGIUM

Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocery at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots. There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and croquettes—molten Emmenthaler cheese sticks—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Six rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town. 1133 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-4607, and other locations, authenticwaffle.com. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Sat, dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

20 BRIX

Paul Barraco mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. And his chicken and waffles could inspire you to regularly take a solo seat at the bar. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in five-ounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several. 101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$

TERANGA

West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, home-style dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and ﬂavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and all—in a peppery citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijoncoated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater. Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Morrocan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders. 8438 Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

THE VIEW AT SHIRES’ GARDEN

The name of this restaurant demands that one question be answered ﬁrst: So, how’s that view? Well, it’s impressive. Especially if the weather cooperates and you can get a seat outside. The cocktail list tells you a lot about The View at Shires’ Garden. Some restaurants create a whole list of original drinks. Here, it’s the classics: things like the Sazerac and the old fashioned. The menu is full of genuinely

seasonal dishes, like the spaghetti squash with a creamy pecorino Alfredo sauce. The Asian-inspired skin-on black cod in dashi broth gently flaked apart in a subtle, flavorful miso broth and was served with wontons of minced fish, each with a magical citrusy quality (from lemongrass) that elevated the whole dish and made it special.

ously portioned appetizers into dinner. Pair the open-faced beef tongue “French Dip” sandwich with a spinach salad and you’ll have one of the best choices in the house. Or go for mac-and-cheese. The lobster mac always sounds lush, but do consider the humble beef cheek version, enlivened by a touch of truffle oil, instead.

309 Vine St., 10th Floor, downtown, (513) 407-7501, theviewatshiresgarden.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, barboeuf.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

YUCA

Yuca is in The Fairﬁeld’s former space, retaining much of the same modern, airy, and inviting café vibes with a neighborhood feel, but boasting a menu certainly worth a commute. In the mood for a hearty breakfast? Indulge in the Fat Zach, a heaping corn gordita packed to the brim with chicken, chorizo, and scrambled egg, served with avocado, pineapple pico, and sweet and spicy potatoes. There’s a full drink menu ranging from coffee to Bloody Marys—or a selection of margaritas and palomas if you’re looking to stick around. 700 Fairﬁeld Ave., Bellevue, (859) 360-0110, yucabycedar.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $

ZULA

For a restaurant whose name loosely derives from an Israeli slang term for “hidden treasure,” it seems apt that a dish or two might sneak in and stun—like the mussels Marseilles, with its bouillabaisse-style broth, rich with saffron, tomato, and fennel. But Zula is no one-trick pony. With a wood-ﬁred oven on the premises, it’s incumbent on you to try the ﬂatbreads. One zula is the eggplant option, where caramelized onions and marinated red bell peppers pair well with subtly sweet fontina. Not every bite at Zula is a game-changer, but one is all you need. 1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 744-9852, zulabistro.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

AMMA’S KITCHEN

Muthu “Kumar” Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthia saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item— from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliﬂower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea ﬂour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes. 7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet seven days (all-vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

BOMBAY BRAZIER

FRENCH CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT

Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renee to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Asparagus is beautifully roasted and perfectly salted, and the quiche Lorraine (yes, the old standby) has a nice, ﬁrm texture, and a ﬁne balance of bacon, mushrooms, and oignons (to quote the menu, which is a charming hodgepodge of French and English). This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution. 233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

FRENCH CRUST

Located in the old Globe Furniture building at the corner of Elm and Elder Streets, this Jean-Robert de Cavel creation offers French fare in the heart of Over-theRhine. Swing by for lunch and have a quiche Lorraine (French Crust’s quiches are unrivaled in our humble opinion) and an avocado and shrimp salad, or opt for a more hearty entree—like bouillabaisse or cassoulet— for dinner. If you’re an early bird, a Croque Monsieur (sunny side up egg) is a great way to start the day.

Indian food in America is hard to judge, because whether coming from the kitchen of a takeout joint or from a nicer establishment, the food will rarely taste all that different. It will generally be some twist on Punjabi cuisine. Bombay Brazier does it just right. Chef Rip Sidhu could serve his dal tadka in India, along with several other extraordinary dishes, and still do a roaring business—and this is not something that can be said of most Indian establishments in America. Try the pappadi chaat, a common Indian street food rarely found on American menus, and you will see what sets this place apart. They do everything the way it is supposed to be done, from the dusting of kala namak (a pungent black rock salt) on the fried crisps to the mixture of tamarind and mint chutneys on the chopped onion, tomatoes, and chickpeas—having this dish properly made is balm to the soul of a homesick immigrant, and fresh treasure for any American lover of this cuisine. 12140 Royal Point Dr., Mason, (513) 794-0000, bombaybraziercincy.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

BRIJ MOHAN

Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no supersizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely ﬂavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-ﬂavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. 11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549, brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC. $

I TA L I A N

1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 455-3720, frenchcrustcafe.com. Breakfast and lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC. $$

LE BAR A BOEUF

INDIAN

Jean-Robert de Cavel’s upscale alterna-burger-shack features bifteck haché, ground beef patties that are a mainstay of French family dinners, according to de Cavel. His “Les Ground Meat” is available in beef, Wagyu beef, bison, lamb, and ﬁsh (a blend of albacore tuna and salmon). Portions are eight ounces, taller than a typical burger, and seared on the kitchen’s iron griddle. It’s easy to turn many of the gener-

A TAVOLA

In 2011, Jared Wayne opened A Tavola Pizza with two friends just as OTR was blowing up. A Ferrara pizza oven was ordered from Italy; Wayne, a skilled woodworker, built custom tables; and the menu was ﬂeshed in with trendy crowdpleasers like charcuterie and craft cocktails. Fast-forward a decade. The OTR outpost is closed but the second location is still going strong in the ’burbs: A Tavola Madeira capital-

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izes on the menu from the Vine Street location, including the fresh and zesty asparagus, artichoke, and feta pizza on a Neapolitan crust; gooey mozzarella-filled arancini, or risotto fritters; and the unequaled Blue Oven English muffin eggplant sliders. Wash down your small plates with a glass of crisp and grassy Sannio falanghina or an icecold Peroni lager. Not ones to rest on their laurels, they also fire up a third Italian import—an Italforni Bull Oven—for their take on Roman-style pies (with a thinner, crispier crust). They’re definitely going to need a bigger parking lot.

It’s friendly, with a staff that stays on top of reﬁlling that Morretti La Rossa beer. And best of all, the food is amazing (especially for the price). We ranked their pizza the best in the city. Dubious? Their pizza Margherita will make a believer out of you. Their lasagna, spaghetti, and eggplant Parmesan will have you crying Mama Mia and other Italian-sounding phrases. Their dessert options (Cannoli! Tiramisu! Amaretto cream cake!) are all homemade, and delicious to the very last bite. 3764 Montgomery Rd., Norwood, (513) 6316836. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $$

ENOTECA EMILIA

proud. In most instances, raving about a side of creamed corn wouldn’t bode well for the rest of the menu. Here, that side dish—kernels swimming in a pool of truffle-laced heavy cream that demands sopping up—is evidence that each component prepared by chef de cuisine Stefano Carne is purpose-driven. The red wine–braised honeycomb tripe, which carries a warning label (“Don’t be scared!”), and the pappardelle with spiced cinghiale (wild boar) ragu are examples of the elevated, adventurous comfort food that Pietoso strives for. 3514 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 818-8720, fornoosteriabar.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

Everything about this place says it’s about the pizza: the herbed sauce, the assault of the cheese, the toppings. It’s all evenly distributed, so you get a taste in every bite. Adriatico’s still delivers the tastiest pizza in Clifton. On any given night the aroma wafts through every dorm on campus. It’s that popular because it’s that good. Being inexpensive doesn’t hurt either.

Margaret Ranalli revives her O’Bryonville restaurant in a new Loveland space. The menu makes the most of seasonality—which is apparent in the shrimp spiedini. The star of the dish is not the grilled shrimp; it’s the salad of ﬁrm diced peaches on which it is served. It is pure summer on a plate. The dish may be off the menu by the time you’re reading this, but any chef who can celebrate an ingredient like this can carry the whole year. Simple presentations of exquisitely fresh ingredients appear throughout the menu, from the the oyster mushrooms served with Brussels sprouts to the roasted sweet corn on the pizza. Enoteca Emilia does the classics well—the crust on both pizzas we tried was just right, the quattro formaggi a particular highlight—and the prices on these items, along with the wine, were quite reasonable.

113 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights, (513) 281-4344, adriaticosuc.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

110 S. Second St., Loveland, (513) 583-0300, emilialoveland.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

BETTA’S ITALIAN OVEN

FORNO

Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrates 25 years in business. Nicola’s has entered a new era of exuberant creativity under the leadership of chef Jack Hemmer. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the candied slice of blood orange on the mascarpone cheesecake to the staff’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the perfectly nested ribbons of beets in the pickled beet salad or the balance of bitterness, funkiness, and creaminess in the endive and Gorgonzola salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.

This Italian place hits the spot on all levels. It’s casual—we felt at home in jeans and a T-shirt—but not so casual to rule it out as a date-night spot.

Cristian Pietoso’s second restaurant has all the bones of an upscale eatery, but the menu is infused with enough Italian soul to make nonna

1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$$

7022 Miami Ave., Madeira, (513) 272-0192, atavolapizza.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

ADRIATICO’S

Top 10

NICOLA’S

MEAN GREENS

Casual salad concept Green District recently opened its ﬁrst Hamilton County location (at least eight more are in the works). The chain offers signature chopped salads, wraps, and grain bowls with more than 50 fresh ingredients and 12 house-made dressings. Cofounder Jordan Doepke and Midwest market president Lance Little are Cincinnati natives. gdsalads.

com

“This is the best fried chicken in Cincinnati. The crust was delicious, the chicken was tender, and the green bean casserole reminded me of my grandmother’s Sunday dinners. “

1819 Elm Street • mightygoodotr.com 1 0 6 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

ICON BY JESSICA DUNHAM

PADRINO

This sister restaurant to 20 Brix is also owned and operated by the Thomas family and their superstar Executive Chef Paul Barraco, who brings his passion for the slow food movement to the Padrino menu. Billed as “Italian comfort food,” Padrino offers the classics (like lasagna and chicken carbonara) plus hoagies and meatball sliders, an impressive wine list, seasonal martinis, and a decadent signature appetizer—garlic rolls, doughy buns smothered in olive oil and garlic. Best of all, Barraco’s pizza sauce, which is comprised of roasted tomatoes and basil, is so garden-fresh that one can’t help but wonder: If this is real pizza, what have we been eating all these years? 111 Main St., Milford, (513) 965-0100, padrinoitalian. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The forktender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-ﬁlled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsala soaked raisins, and cream. 810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$

PEPP & DOLORES

As with all of Thunderdome’s restaurants, you get a sense that they want to deliver a meal that satisfies many different kinds of people. The prices are reasonable, with pasta entrées about $15. The dishes are familiar in their flavors, but everything feels balanced and modulated and gradually perfected. There is lovely variety: the limone pasta is zippy with lemon and chili flakes, and just the right mixture of tart and creamy; the deep meaty flavors on the mushroom toast are balanced with a nice acidity; and the heat in dishes like the eggplant involtini is just enough to wake up the sauce without overwhelming the flavor. The menu has a wealth of excellent vegetarian and pasta-alternative options. 1501 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 419-1820, peppanddolores.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

PRIMAVISTA

Besides offering the old world ﬂavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper thin raw beef

SOTTO

There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. Penne with rapini and sausage comes in a buttery, lightly starchy broth with a kick of spice that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of the chicken liver mousse to the tart cherry sauce on the panna cotta, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness. Top 10

on the menu—from pizza to risotto to various pastas—will be familiar, but there are delightful surprises, like the vegan torta di ceci. At the base of the dish is a light, ﬂaky farinata— a griddled pancake made out of chickpea ﬂour. Topped with an herbed tofu ricotta, and covered with roasted ribbons of beet and carrot, the whole dish is rounded out with a touch of astringent tartness from preserved lemon oil. Everything at Subito is done with intelligence and a light touch. 311 Pike St., downtown, (513) 621-4500, thelytleparkhotel.com/dining/subito. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

VIA VITE

Cristian Pietoso serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny ﬂavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the ﬂavorful Faroe Island salmon with butternut squash puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette. 520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

J A PA N E S E

118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 977-6886, sottocincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$

SUBITO

ANDO

Focusing on Northern Italian cuisine, Subito carves out its own worthwhile place in the landscape. Most of the items

You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoal-grilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the rich and meaty chyu toro (fatty big-eye tuna),

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WHERE TO EAT NOW

or the pucker-inducing umeshiso maki (pickled plum paste and shiso leaf roll). Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it oysters, pork belly, or steamed monkfish liver, a Japanese delicacy that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in any of those Hyde Park pan-Asian wannabes. The only thing you won’t find here is sake, or any other alcohol. Bring your own, or stick to the nutty and outright addicting barley tea. 5889 Pfeiffer Rd., Blue Ash, (513) 791-8687, andojapaneserestaurant.com. Lunch Tues & Thurs, dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$$

KIKI

Kiki started as a pop-up at Northside Yacht Club, then leapt into brick-and-mortar life in College Hill. Your best bet here is to share plates, or simply order too much, starting with the shishito buono, a piled-high plate of roasted shishito peppers tossed in shaved parmesan and bagna cauda, a warm, rich blend of garlic and anchovies. Add the karaage fried chicken, with the Jordy mayo and the pepe meshi, conﬁt chicken on spaghetti and rice that somehow works. And, yes, the ramen, too. The shio features pork belly and tea-marinated soft-boiled egg, but the kimchi subs in tofu and its namesake cabbage for the meat. 5932 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 541-0381, kikicincinnati.com. Lunch (carryout only) and dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC. $

KYOTO

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—slivers of giant clam on ice in a super-sized martini glass, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, smoky grilled New Zealand mussels drizzled with spicy mayo, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake. 12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotosushibar.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

MEI

Mei’s menu is meant to represent traditional Japanese cuisine, appealing to the novice as well as the sushi maven. It is divided into sections that encourage a progressive meal of small dishes: One each for hot and cold appetizers, noodles, sushi and sashimi, special rolls, soups and salads, sushi dinners (with miso soup), and combinations (such as tempura paired with sashimi). Deep-fried soft shell crab comes with ponzu sauce—a dipping sauce made of rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and citrus juice—and the kind of yakitori that you can ﬁnd on the streets of New York. Bento boxes—lacquered wooden boxes divided into compartments—offer the neophyte a sampling of several small dishes. Mei’s are lovely: deep red and stocked with tempura, cooked salmon, sashimi, stewed vegetables, and a fabulous egg custard with shrimp and gingko nut. Mei’s sushi—nigiri, maki, and handrolls—is exceptionally good with quality cuts of fresh seafood. The staff is knowledgeable, extremely efficient, respectful, and attentive, even when it’s at peak capacity. 8608 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 891-6880, meijapaneserestaurant.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

ZUNDO RAMEN & DONBURI

A stark contrast to Styrofoam cup soup, chef Han Lin’s ramens are a deep and exciting branch of cuisine, capable of subtlety, variation, and depth. The simplicity of the dish’s name hides a world of complexity. Zundo uses the traditional Japanese building blocks of ﬂavor—soy sauce, miso, sake, mirin—to create something freewheeling and timetested. Bowls of ramen come with a marinated soft-boiled egg half, roast pork, green onion, and a healthy serving of noodles. Each has a distinct identity, like the milky richness of the tonkotsu, the rich and buttery miso, or the light and

faintly sweet shoyu ramen. A transformative add-in is the mayu, or black garlic oil. Dripped on top of one of the subtler broths, it adds a deep, mushroom-y richness, with the hint of burned ﬂavor that makes barbecue so good. 220 W. 12th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 975-0706, zundootr.com. Lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

KOREAN HARU

After the closing of Sung Korean Bistro, Haru is a welcome addition to the downtown scene. Dishes are served along with the usual Korean accompaniment of pickles, kimchi, ﬁsh cakes, and other mysteriously delicious dainties. A favorite is the japchae, a traditional dish sporting silky sweet potato noodles with sesame-and-garlic sauce, matchsticks of assorted crisp vegetables, and behind it all a wonderful smokiness that pervades the whole meal. The accompanying pot of gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste, adds its own sweet and spicy note. The result is a homey, soulful, and satisfying taste that appeals even to those who’ve never eaten a bite of Korean food before. 628 Vine St., downtown, (513) 381-0947, harucincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

Come for the jo gi mae un tang—a bowl of sizzling, happy hellbroth pungent with red pepper, garlic, and ginger, crowded with nuggets of fish, tofu, and vegetables. Come for the restorative power of sam gae tang, a chicken soup for the Seoul—a whole Cornish hen submerged in its own juices and plumped with sticky rice and ginseng, dried red dates, and pine nuts. Revered for their medicinal properties, both dinner-sized soups will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. They’re a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven. 512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

MEDITERRANEAN ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE

In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate. Co-owner Andy Hajjar mans his station at the end of the bar, smoking a hookah pipe that ﬁlls the air with the sweet smell of ﬂavored tobacco, while the friendly but hurried staff hustles through. 906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAFÉ MEDITERRANEAN

Chef-driven Middle Eastern cuisine leans heavily on Turkish tradition here. The baba ghanoush uses seared eggplant, which adds a pleasant smokiness to the ﬁnal product. Börek is described as a “Turkish Egg Roll,” wrapping feta and fresh and dried herbs into phyllo dough, and frying it lightly to brittle ﬂakiness. The pastry arrives atop a vivid cherry tomato marmalade, which adds a welcome dimension of barely sweet fruitiness. While there is a smooth, simple hummus on the menu, you should go for the classic sucuklu hummus, which is spiked with sujuk, a common beef sausage popular all over the Middle East. 3520 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 871-8714. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

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PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the ﬂavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further. 7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues– Sun. MCC. $$

SANTORINI

Steak, eggs, and home fries. Jumbo haddock sandwich with Greek fries. Chocolate chip hot cakes with bacon. Notice something wrong with this menu? Chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich with Olympic onion rings. Yep, it’s obvious: What’s wrong with this menu is that there’s nothing wrong with this menu. Greek feta cheese omelette with a side of ham. It’s been owned by the same family for more than 30 years. Santorini has diner standards, like cheeseburgers, chili ﬁve ways, and breakfast anytime, but they also make some Greek pastries in house, like spanakopita and baklava. 3414 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, (513) 662-8080. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sat, breakfast and lunch Sun. Cash. $

SEBASTIAN’S

When the wind is just right, you can smell the garlicky meat roasting from a mile away. Watch owner Alex Sebastian tend to the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Alex’s wife and daughter run the counter with efficient speed, and whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanikopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic (often made by the Mrs.), they never miss a beat, turning more covers in their tiny deli on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend. 5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastiansgyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. Cash. $

SULTAN’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

The meze, a parade of small plates and appetizers—the refreshing yogurt dish with cucumber, mint, and garlic known as cacik, and its thicker cousin haydari, with chopped walnuts, dill, and garlic—is rounded out with ﬂaky cheese or spinach boureks, falafels, soups, salads, and more, while baked casseroles or stuffed cabbage and eggplant dishes (dubbed “Ottoman specials”) augment the heavy focus on kebabs: chunks of lamb and beef on a vertical spit for the popular Doner kebab (a.k.a. Turkish gyro), peppery ground lamb for the Adana kebab, or cubed and marinated for the Shish kebab. 7305 Tyler’s Corner Dr., West Chester, (513) 847-1535, sultanscincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

MEXICAN EL VALLE VERDE

Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here— ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white ﬁsh, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with lan-

goustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire ﬁsh—enough to feed three. 6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400. Lunch and dinner seven days. $

HABAÑERO

It’s easy to find a cheap burrito place around a college campus, but you’d be hard-pressed to find one as consistently good as Habañero, with its flavors of Latin America and the Caribbean wrapped up in enormous packages. Fried tilapia, apricot-glazed chicken breast, hand-rubbed spiced flank steak, shredded pork tenderloin, or cinnamon-roasted squash are just some of the ingredients for Habañero’s signature burritos. All salsas are house-made, from the smoky tomato chipotle to the sweet-sounding mango jalapeño, which is hot enough to spark spontaneous combustion. 358 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 961-6800, habanerolatin.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $

MAZUNTE

Mazunte runs a culinary full court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried mahi-mahi tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mango-habañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke and selfserve sangria (try the blanco), or the cans of Rhinegeist and MadTree on ice. 5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 785-0000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

MESA LOCA

Sitting on a corner of Hyde Park Square, it’s easy to see that Mesa Loca has an absolute dream of a location. The pandemic forced a few changes to the seafood-centric menu, but those dishes still on the menu indicate what Mesa Loca could be. The tuna ceviche is nicely balanced: tart, with a little spicy creaminess, and a good crispy tostada. The Baja snapper goes well with a bright pile of grated radish and the mango habañero salsa, one of the highlights of the meal. With minced chunks of mango and a hint of fruity habañero heat, it is a prime example of how you can elevate Mexican food and make it worthy of a higher-thanordinary price. One of Mesa Loca’s appealing qualities is its dramatic ﬂair: The yucca fries come stacked on the plate like a late-stages game of Jenga, and their sour-and-spicy rub is quite delicious and striking against the bright starchy white of the fries. 2645 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-6372, mesalocahydepark.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

MONTOYA’S

Mexican places seem to change hands in this town so often that you can’t get the same meal twice. Montoya’s is the exception. They’ve been hidden in a tiny strip mall off the main drag in Ft. Mitchell for years. It’s unpretentious and seemingly not interested in success, which means success has never gone to their head here. At a place where you can get Huracan Fajitas with steak, chicken, and chorizo or Tilapia Asada, the tacos are still a big item. 2507 Chelsea Dr., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 341-0707. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

NADA

The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll ﬁnd a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. Tacos inspired by global cuisine include the Señor Mu Shu (Modelo and ginger braised pork) and fried avocado (chipotle bean purée). The ancho-glazed pork shank with chili-roasted carrots comes with a papaya guajillo salad (order it for the table); dreamy mac-and-cheese looks harmless, but there’s just enough of a roasted poblano and jalapeño punch to have you reaching for another icy margarita. 600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

TAQUERIA CRUZ

The menu at this four-table mom-and-pop welcomes you to “a little piece of Mexico.” The huaraches (spelled guarachis here), are ﬂat troughs of thick, handmade fried masa dough the approximate shape and size of a shoeprint, mounded with beans and slivers of grilled beef or chili-red nubs of sausage, shredded lettuce, a crumble of queso fresco, and drizzle of cultured cream. Should you have an adventurous side, you can have your huarache topped with slippery tongue, goat meat, shredded chicken, or pork. There are stews, carne asada plates, and sopes—saucers of fried masa much like huaraches, only smaller. 518 Pike St., Covington, (859) 431-3859. Lunch and dinner seven days. Cash. $

TAQUERIA MERCADO

On a Saturday night, Taqueria Mercado is a lively ﬁesta, with seemingly half of the local Hispanic community guzzling margaritas and cervezas, or carrying out sacks of burritos and carnitas tacos—pork tenderized by a long simmer, its edges frizzled and crispy. The Mercado’s strip mall interior, splashed with a large, colorful mural, is equally energetic: the bustling semi-open kitchen; a busy counter that handles a constant stream of take-out orders; a clamorous, convivial chatter in Spanish and English. Try camarones a la plancha, 12 chubby grilled shrimp tangled with grilled onions (be sure to specify if you like your onions well done). The starchiness of the rice absorbs the caramelized onion juice, offset by the crunch of lettuce, buttery slices of avocado, and the cool-hot pico de gallo. A shrimp quesadilla paired with one of their cheap and potent margaritas is worth the drive alone.

1220 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-0427, pearlstar.com. Dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

PELICAN’S REEF

Over the years Chef John Broshar has developed his niche, inspired by the seasonal availability of fish obtained daily from one or more of the purveyors he uses. Mahi-mahi from the Gulf, swordfish from Hawaii, Lake Erie walleye, wild Alaskan salmon, wreckfish from South Carolina, rainbow trout, and wild striped bass are just some of the varieties that rotate through the extensive features listed on a 10foot by 2-foot chalkboard. The regular offerings are no slouch: Grilled grouper sandwich with chipotle tartar sauce, chubby fish tacos, perfectly fried piping hot oysters tucked into a buttered and toasted po’ boy bun with housemade slaw, and tart-sweet key lime pie. And of course, the damn good New England style chowder. 7261 Beechmont Ave., Anderson Twp., (513) 232-2526, the pelicansreef.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

STEAKS CARLO & JOHNNY

6507 Dixie Hwy., Fairﬁeld, (513) 942-4943; 100 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 381-0678, tmercadocincy. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $

SEAFOOD MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S

The daily rotation here reads like a ﬁsherman’s wish list: fresh lobsters from the coast of Maine, ahi tuna from Hawaii, North Carolina catﬁsh, Massachusetts cod. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Flaky Parmesan-crusted tilapia, with a squeeze of lemon, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square, and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things. 21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339, mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

OAKLEY FISH HOUSE

Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Oakley Fish House is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu tends toward fairly conservative takes on classics, like well-seasoned crab cakes and thick, creamy chowder full of seafood. The handful of ethnic experiments on the menu are among its most vibrant offerings, including a Mediterranean fish stew that takes inspiration from the North African coast. Tender, fluffy couscous soaks up a fiery but sweet tomato sauce that showcases chiles and peppercorns, golden raisins, and lovely firm cashews, and the stew itself is packed with mussels, shrimp, and chunks of fish. 3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, oakleyfishhouse.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$

PEARLSTAR

caper butter, was creamy enough to eat by the spoonful while the soft, spicy redﬁsh was ﬂecked with a chocolaty chorizo oil that tasted like a master chef’s take on Cincinnati chili. All of this can be washed down with PearlStar’s extensive drink menu, including cleverly named cocktails like Thyme to Fly and Golf Pants.

Over-the-Rhine’s buzzworthy oyster bar marks owner Terry Raley and his Amaranth Hospitality Group’s first foray outside of Nashville. The oysters—flown in every 24 to 36 hours—are delivered on a bed of crushed ice with lemon wedges and a vinegary herbed mignonette sauce. Add a few refreshing drops of lemon and mignonette, mix in the additional fresh horseradish, house-made hot sauce, or cocktail sauce, and slurp your way to the sea. The entrées (Pearl “Stars,” as they’re called on the menu) is equal parts surf and turf, with the Arctic char and Texas redfish living up to the “star” billing. The char, with its topping of lemon

The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that meltin-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the hard to find bone-in filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives. 9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

LOSANTI

A bit more upscale than its sister restaurant, Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti is also more conservative in its offerings. Service is friendly and informal, and though the meal feels like a special occasion, prices and atmosphere are right for, say, a date, rather than a wedding anniversary. The ﬁlet mignon, rib eye, and New York strip are cut to order for each table (there are a few available weights for each). The steaks themselves are totally irreproachable, perfectly seasoned, cooked to precisely the right point. Losanti even makes the steakhose sides a little special. Sweet and smoky caramelized onions are folded into the mashed potatoes, a nice dusting of truffles wakes up the mac and cheese, and the sweet corn—yes, totally out of season, but still good—is at least freshly cut off the cob and recalls elote with lime and chile powder. 1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4213, losantiotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

JAG’S STEAK AND SEAFOOD

Chef Michelle Brown’s food is deeply ﬂavored, if occasionally a bit busy, her steaks of the buttery-mild variety, with not too much salty char crust. All seven cuts are served with veal demi-glace and fried onion straws. According to my steak-centric dining partner, his cowboy rib eye is “too tender and uniform” (as if that’s a crime). “I like to wrestle with the bone,” he adds, though that’s a scenario that, thankfully, doesn’t get played out in this subdued dining room. 5980 West Chester Rd., West Chester, (513) 860-5353, jags.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$

JEFF RUBY’S

Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with ﬂoor-length aprons deliver two-ﬁsted martinis and stacks of king crab legs, or mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea

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WHERE TO EAT NOW

bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers, even the willowy model types, inhale slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime) like they’re dining in a crack house for carnivores. The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Jewel, nearly a pound-and-a-half of bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers. 700 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby. com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$

MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE

No one has replicated the concept of an expensive boys’ club better than Morton’s. Amid the dark polished woods and white linen, the Riedel stemware and stupendous flower arrangements, assorted suits grapple with double cut filet mignons, 24 ounces of porterhouse, pink shiny slabs of prime rib, overflowing plates of salty Lyonnaise potatoes, or mammoth iceberg wedges frosted with thick blue cheese dressing. Jumbo is Morton’s decree: Oversized martini and wine glasses, ethereal towering lemon soufflés, roomy chairs, and tables large enough for a plate and a laptop. Even steaks billed as “slightly smaller” weigh in at 8 to 10 ounces.

Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint.

knowledgeable—help you. When the food arrives, you’ll need only a deep inhale to know you made the right choice. The Green Papaya sushi rolls are as delicious as they look, with a manic swirl of spicy mayo and bits of crabstick and crispy tempura batter scattered atop the spicy tuna, mango, cream cheese, and shrimp tempura sushi—all rolled in a vivid green soybean wrap.

311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

2942 Wasson Rd., Oakley, (513) 731-0107, greenpapayacincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

TONY’S

He is a captivating presence, Tony Ricci. Best known for his 30 years in ﬁne dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of ﬁlet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto. 12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 6778669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

THAI

441 Vine St., downtown, (513) 621-3111, mortons.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

THE PRECINCT

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral ﬂavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm

GREEN PAPAYA

Inside this simple dining room, replete with soothing browns and greens and handsome, dark wood furniture, it takes time to sort through the many curries and chef’s specialties, not to mention the wide variety of sushi on the somethingfor-everyone menu. Have the staff—friendly, attentive, and

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LOTUS THAI & SUSHI

Lotus Thai & Sushi offers fresh sushi and Thai food in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. Seafood takes center stage on the Thai menu as well, where the house specials include dishes like seafood clay pot, seafood hot pot soup, and steamed ﬁsh with lime sauce. For starters, try the tamago from the sushi menu; it’s an omelette-like scrambled egg that’s gently folded and loosely tied to a ball of rice with a thin cummerbund of seaweed. It’ll help you save room for the hockey puck-sized spicy scallops, fried to a golden brown and served over rice with basil, onions, bell peppers, and a pleasantly sour brown sauce. Don’t let the shopping mall location fool you—this is, at heart, a neighborhood restaurant. Judging from their interactions with the staff, it seemed like most of the other diners were regulars. After tasting the food and savoring the inviting atmosphere, it’s easy to see why. 2886 Town Center Blvd., Crestview Hills, (859) 2862439, lotusthaiandsushiky.com. Lunch and dinner Mon, Wed–Sun. MCC. $

SUKHOTHAI

Nestled in the nearly hidden Market Place Lane, this tiny restaurant isn’t exactly slick. A chalkboard lists the day’s specials, usually spicy dishes worthy of an adventurous diner. But if it’s noodle dishes and curries you’re after, Sukhothai’s pad kee mao—wide rice noodles stir-fried with basil—is the best around. Served slightly charred, the

fresh and dried chilies provide enough heat to momentarily suspend your breath. Pad Thai has the right amount of crunch from peanuts, slivers of green onion, and mung sprouts to contrast with the slippery glass noodles, and a few squeezes of fresh lime juice give it a splendid tartness. The crispy tamarind duck is one of the best house specials, the meat almost spreadably soft under the papery skin and perfectly complemented by the sweet-tart bite of tamarind.

the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill.

8102 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 794-0057, sukhothaicincy.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. DS, MC, V. $

5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $

TEAK THAI

Wild Ginger Asian Bistro’s ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evidenced by their signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-andchili brown sauce.

Owner Chanaka De Lanerolle has said that he decided to bring back Teak’s take on Thai food because of the renewed vibrancy in Over-the-Rhine, which he compared to the energy he felt in Mt. Adams during his time there. But for all of the hype around the restaurant’s re-emergence on the scene, it’s probably best to consider it a reimagining rather than a reopening. While long-time favorites show up on the menu, prepared by many of the same kitchen staff members from Mt. Adams, some adaptations have been made to better meet expectations of modern diners. Letting go of preconceived notions about Teak will serve you well. With a two-sided, standalone sushi menu and a wide variety of main plates ranging from small bites to signature dishes, you have plenty of room to craft your own dining experience. 1200 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-8325, teakotr. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

THAI NAMTIP

Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at ﬁrst bite, then

ful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk that should make canned energy drinks obsolete. 1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $

SONG LONG

WILD GINGER

The menu does have a substantial Chinese section, but make no mistake, the reason there’s a line at the door on weekend nights is the ﬁne Vietnamese specialties cooked and served by the Le family. Begin with the goi cuon, the cold rolls of moistened rice paper wrapped around vermicelli noodles, julienned cucumbers, lettuce, cilantro, and mung bean sprouts. Or try the banh xeo, a platter-sized pan-fried rice crepe folded over substantial nuggets of chicken and shrimp, mushrooms, and wilted mung sprouts. The phos, meal-sized soups eaten for breakfast, are good, but the pho dac biet is Song Long’s best. Crisp-tender vegetables, slices of beef, herbs, and scallions glide through the noodlestreaked broth.

3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

1737 Section Rd., Roselawn, (513) 351-7631, songlong. net. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $ CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), March 2022, Volume 55, Number 6. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 1818 Race St., Ste. 301, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2022 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-6606247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

VI ETNAM E S E PHO LANG THANG

Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most ﬂavor-

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Mush Love

THE GOURMET MUSHROOMS AT RICH LIFE FARM AND FUNGI ARE FRUITED WITH LOVE—

literally. Emalee and Pete Richman first began growing specialty mushrooms as both a hobby and an effort to spend more time together. Prior to opening their farm, the married couple worked opposite schedules, rarely seeing each other. “It just wasn’t what we were really hoping for as far as a life together,” says Pete. “We’d come home after giving 10 hours of our best selves to someone else. It just wasn’t fulfilling.” So in 2020, after quitting their day jobs, the young duo went all-in on their hobby, starting a large-scale fungi farm in New Richmond. At the indoor farm, rows of mushrooms grow on shelves, thanks to a multi-step, hypercontrolled process. The couple cultivates 10 mushroom varieties at a time, from shaggy white lion’s mane to the traditional brown-cap shiitake, producing more than 300 pounds of fungi each week. The fruits of their labor are sold at farmers’ markets and to local restaurants. “We’re living our ‘rich’ life,” says Emalee. “We’re getting to work for each other and ourselves every day.” — B E B E H O D G E S 1 1 2 C I N C I N N AT I M A G A Z I N E . C O M M A R C H 2 0 2 2

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