Cincinnati Magazine - November 2022 Edition

24

in

A day in our lives is captured by 24 local photographers Alex Spencer Sparks Stories With Cigars

By Rodney Wilson

Banking on the Power of Books

By Kelly Blewett

Holiday Skin

Dr. Mona and her staff share their suggestions for how to treat your skin during this season.

JESSICA WATKINS, PA-C

“If I only have a little time to prep for holiday parties or gatherings, my favorite options with essentially no downtime are a sprinkle of Botox, IPL to reduce brown spots, and an Aquagold facial or Diamond Glow facial to cap it off. Plus, these can even be done on the same day!”

ANNA LUNING, CNP

“As the cold and dry weather approaches, make sure to have a high quality moisturizer to hydrate your skin! My favorite is SkinMedica Rejuvenative Moisturizer. You can also boost your skin’s own moisture by pairing it with a Hyaluronic Acid serum such as SkinMedica’s HA5! Also, always remember to target the face, neck, and chest.”

MONA S. FOAD, MD

“Before the holidays I love to do either a Diamond Glow or an Intraceuticals Oxygen Facial to freshen up my skin with no downtime. To soften lines and give yourself a pick me up, who doesn’t love a little Botox? Finally, to look your best by the New Year with no downtime, try one of our newer treatments such as EmFace to lift and tighten, or Glacial Rx to decrease redness and brown spots."

Tips!

MEGAN NIESE, PA-C

“Leading up to a special event, I ideally plan Botox about one month prior and I love a medical grade chemical peel about two weeks prior. In addition, drinking plenty of water and getting enough sleep should not be overlooked. My favorite products to keep up with include TNS A+ and Latisse eyelash serum. If I am planning a tropical holiday getaway, I also try to schedule a few Emsculpt Neo treatments to help tone and feel confident!”

TAYLOR WOJNIAK, CNP

“The fall and winter are my favorite times to address unwanted pigmentation. It’s the perfect time for an IPL or Fraxel laser to address all the stubborn pigment that popped up in the summertime. Don’t forget to pair these treatments with Lytera and TNS A+ to keep those great results long term! As always, don’t forget your daily SPF, even in the cold winter months.”

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PHOTOGRAPH

PICTURE THIS PHOTOGRAPHER DEVYN GLISTA

BACKSTAGE

FRONTLINES

and Books

Banks highlight a world of words

Moeves brings hot new musicians to town

Cincinnati is home to Monopoly makers

STYLE COUNSEL

12’s Kyle Inskeep

FIELD GUIDE

these four independent bookstores

THE MARKET

over-the-top East Walnut Hills Victorian

DINE

MAIN REVIEW

Kitchen, Hyde Park

PLATE

Loveland

TABLESIDE

Food Hussy, Heather Johnson

HIGH SPIRITS

East Walnut Hills

Eatery, Madisonville

An extra serving of our outstanding dining coverage.

on

GUIDE

Cincinnati restaurants:

selective

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.

Tracking what’s

in

by

estate, artisans, and

maven Alex Spen-

OBSCURA

Early & Daniel silos

on the Bengals’ march to the Super Bowl.

FLAT FEE

Look your absolute best at any age!

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS Amanda Boyd Walters

SENIOR EDITOR Aiesha D. Little

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lauren Fisher

DIGITAL EDITOR Sam Rosenstiel

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Kane Mitten

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jim DeBrosse, Kathleen Doane, Jay Gilbert, Lisa Murtha, Laurie Pike, Kevin Schultz, John Stowell, Linda Vaccariello, Kathy Y. Wilson, Jenny Wohlfarth, J. Kevin Wolfe

DIGITAL INTERN Brianna Connock

Kawanari,

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Carlie Burton, Logan Case, Jessica Dunham

Wesley Koogle

CO-OP HATSUE

Lance Adkins, Wes Battoclette, Aaron M. Conway, Chris Danger, Andrew Doench, Devyn Glista, Chris von Holle, Jeremy Kramer, Ryan Kurtz, Lars Leetaru, Marlene Rounds, Dola Sun, Catie Viox

PUBLISHER Ivy Bayer

SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Maggie Wint Goecke, Julie Poyer

ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE Hilary Linnenberg

SENIOR OUTSIDE ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

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SENIOR MANAGER, SPONSORSHIP SALES Chris Ohmer

EVENT SPONSORSHIP ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Kirsten Werner-Reyes

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER Cecilia Rose

BUSINESS

COORDINATOR

CIRCULATION

Missy

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CIRCULATION MANAGER Riley Meyers

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IIF YOU’RE EVER IN NEED OF A QUICK DOSE OF HUMILITY, CONSIDER THIS: RIGHT now hundreds of thousands of people across Cincinnati are doing their own thing, oblivious to your accomplishments, your goals, and your problems. And they’re getting along just fine without you, thanks.

Everyone has accomplishments, goals, and problems. In our minds, each of us is the star of our own movie or the subject of our own feature article. The challenge for those of us who tell stories for a living is to sort through all of those personal screenplays and magazine spreads and decide which to share in our print and digital pages, then how and when. Most of the time at Cincinnati Magazine , we look for commonalities and themes to help us explore life in Cincinnati in unique ways—for example, Halloween-inspired friends and neighbors, the region’s bourbon culture, and cool places to camp, per our past three cover features.

This issue takes a different approach with “24 Hours in 24 Photos” (page 36), which delights in life’s randomness by having local photographers shoot images during every hour of a typical day. There’s no shortage around here of homes preparing for dinner, high school kids playing sports, places to watch a sunset, people waiting for the bus, and bars closing down for the night. We hired 24 local photographers to shoot a specific scene at a specific hour in midSeptember, not knowing exactly who or what they’d find. The resulting variety in both subject matter and photographic styles is kind of haphazard and fascinating—a lot like life in general.

One of my goals as Editor-in-Chief is for this publication to be a living record of contemporary life in this city, a collection of written and visual snapshots of how we work, love, play, strive, and collide at particular moments in time. This view into a day in the life of Cincinnati in late 2022, while by no means allencompassing, has been a fun exercise in storytelling. To paraphrase a classic film noir movie, there are a million stories in the naked city and 365 days in the year. This has been one of them.

JOHN FOX EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

CONTRIBUTORS

LEETARU

KELLY BLEWETT

It probably won’t come as a surprise, but Indiana University Assistant Professor of English Kelly Blewett is a bookworm—and so, on top of grading papers and reading the latest literature, she also writes about books for Cincinnati Magazine. “I loved learning about the connections between local bookstores and nonprofits,” she says of this month’s piece, “You Can Bank on Books” (page 17). Her latest recommendations? James McBride’s Deacon King Kong and Tae Keller’s When You Trap a Tiger.

Rodney Wilson isn’t a smoker; that’s not what drew the contributing writer to Cincinnati cigar aficionado Alex Spencer (“Stories With Cigars,” page 32). Instead, it was his personality and unfaltering ability to turn a product into a storytelling device. “Stories are what drive me,” Wilson says. “I’m fascinated that he’s trying to tell intimate, important stories through the experience of his products. And I shared his story in my own way, which felt almost circular.”

ALYSSA DE ASIS

Contributing artist Alyssa De Asis has been illustrating professionally for only four years, but she’s been an artist all her life. And although she’s never been to Cincinnati, she got the lay of the land by trekking around the city on the second best thing to an in-person visit: Google Street View. “I wanted to capture the colorful and creative city, but also have some familiar landmarks [that are] identifiable to Cincinnati,” she says of her illustration for “You Can Bank on Books” (page 17).

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YOU CAN BANK ON BOOKS

Wandering through Cincinnati’s literary scene one poet, book fair, kids’ class, and bookstore at a time. KELLY BLEWETT

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT Cincinnati Poet Laureate Yalie Saweda Kamara? She was chosen earlier this year through an application process managed by the Mercantile Library on behalf of the city of Cincinnati, and she will serve a two-year term to promote poetry in the community. Her new anthology, What You Need to Know About Me, presents stories of young immigrants in their own words, nearly 500 pages of them. Kamara, who grew up in Oakland, California, before earning her Ph.D. in creative writing and English literature from UC, is the daughter of immigrants from Sierra Leone.

For Kamara, What You Need to Know About Me also speaks to her goals for her laureateship. “I want to contribute to Cincinnati’s embrace of the diversity of its past, present, and future,” she says. “It’s important that my role includes highlighting the multiple and complex realities of Cincinnati’s story.”

One way she’s doing that is through collaborative, multivocal poems, such as one she just curated for BLINK in October. Another way is through the nonprofit WordPlay, which hired Kamara as its first Director of Creative Youth Leadership. Manuel Iris, who was

DISPATCH

poet laureate from 2018 to 2021, serves on WordPlay’s board, and the city’s first laureate, Pauletta Hansel, is a teaching artist there.

Now in its 10th year, WordPlay moved to a new space on Chase Avenue in Northside earlier this year from its original home on Hamilton Avenue. The side of its building features an ArtWorks mural titled Standing on the Shoulders of Giants, which celebrates poet Mary Oliver, an Ohioan by birth, along with famous writers like Joy Harjo, James Baldwin, and Amanda Gorman. WordPlay’s programming reaches children and teenagers both in schools and at the Northside space to spark storytelling through writing, performance, and visual arts.

part of a series from Oxford University Press on the history of objects. And a slim hardbound volume titled How to Keep House While Drowning described in its opening pages how it had been designed—from font to organization— with neurodivergent readers in mind. I bought them all.

BRINGING BACK LIVE HIP-HOP

Write It Down

Participants can become part of Cincinnati’s own literary story, like the first-ever Cincinnati Youth Poet Laureate Rimel Kamran, a Summit Country Day student whose inauguration at WordPlay was on April 23 (Shakespeare’s birthday).

Books by the Banks is 10 a.m.–4 p.m. November 19. Details: booksbythebanks.org.

Michael Link, who worked in the bookstore industry before taking on a leadership role at WordPlay, talks up the transformational power of the written word for both writers and readers. He feels there’s still an important role for bookstores to play in curating experiences for the public and “putting the right books into the right hands at the right times.” He’s also a big fan of Books by the Banks, returning as an in-person book festival on November 19 at Duke Energy Convention Center.

As live music returns after the pandemic pause, Cincinnati’s hip-hop scene is on the rise. Local artists consistently sell out smaller clubs, and household names come to town at bigger venues with surprising frequency. The surge in popularity is partially due to Soul Serum, a local multimedia music collective cofounded by Tanner Moeves, an NKU grad.

Nearby in Northside, Downbound Books offers Kamara’s anthology as well as Iris’s recent book of poetry, This Parting Present, which won an Ohioana Reader’s Choice Award earlier this year. At least a dozen other books there also caught my eye on a recent visit, including a graphic novel of one of my childhood favorites, Anne of Green Gables I discovered that an acquaintance had written a book about the social history of recipes, which was published as

“The best thing about this annual event is the consistently incredible lineup of authors, and I’m not just talking about headliners,” says Link, who has served as a BBTB volunteer organizer for years. “Cincinnati has some of the best authors and illustrators for young people in the country.” You might even leave inspired, he says.

Consider taking your own literary field trip sometime soon (see a roundup of independently owned bookstores on page 22). Spending time with books and the people who write them might make our city feel at once bigger and more like home.

A MONOPOLY ON FUN

Woodlawn-based Late for the Sky Production Co. is prepping for National Play Monopoly Day on November 19 with thousands of custom versions, from Cincinnati-Opoly and West Chester-Opoly to Shark-Opoly and Bible-Opoly. All of the games are manufactured here. lateforthesky.com

How did you get into the music business? I attended [Miami music festival] Rolling Loud in 2017, which really opened my eyes. I was like, There are 40,000 people here for the same music I love, but people back home don’t listen to any of this. Back in Cincinnati, I got all the most creative people I knew—photographers, videographers, graphic designers, musical artists—together to start up something. Our first show was with one of my friends from high school, Pangeaux. Then we did another one with a few more artists at The Mockbee, and it sold more than 250 tickets.

How did you keep going through the pandemic? I knew we needed to shift our direction from throwing live shows and triple down on visuals, so we worked to put

out two music videos a month. We stumbled upon [acoustic rock artist] Jack Kays and shot a video for him. A month later, he had major labels in a bidding war and ended up signing with Columbia Records. [Soul Serum brings Kays back to town on November 22 at Top Cats.] Being able to contribute to the scene again here and bringing national artists to the area who people actually want to see is a good feeling. And there’s a huge appetite with younger kids, especially, to go out to concerts.

What’s been the hardest part about bringing back live music? Now that we’re working with a talent buyer, it’s gotten easier because we don’t have to put up as much funding and take all of the risk. The problem now is that everyone is touring. There are so many tours going on right now, and there’s a ton of overlap. Unfortunately, Cincinnati is still kind of a “pass-through” city, and you’ve got to make a really good offer and make it a good opportunity for them to stop here. This fall, especially, is crazy with all kinds of tours from artists of every genre.

—KANE MITTEN

SPEAKEASY

PHOTOGRAPH

COURTESY TANNER MOEVES / GAMES ILLUSTRATION BY EMI VILLAVICENCIO / ICON BY JESSICA DUNHAM

GAMES

READ A LONGER INTERVIEW WITH TANNER AT CINCINNATIMAGAZINE. COM

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Kyle Inskeep

OCCUPATION: Anchor, Local 12

STYLE: Eclectic, evolving constantly

When you’re putting together an outfit, what’s your starting point? My coworker Paula Toti and I coordinate. So she’ll send me a color or I’ll send her a color. And most of that revolves around a tie. So for work, I start with a tie. But if I’m just going out for a night out on the town, I usually will start with a shirt. Hold up. Does that mean you guys coordinate your outfits every single time you’re on the air together? Every single day. Because you don’t want to clash, right? We don’t always match perfectly, but we always at least coordinate. So if she’s wearing a color, I’m not gonna come in with the clashing color, because then you’re distracted. We want the focus, obviously, to be on the news. When did you know you wanted to be an anchor? Did you always want to be on TV? When I was a kid, I used to watch Saved bytheBellwhen I was eating breakfast. And I would not eat my breakfast, and I’d be late to school. So my mom started making me watch the news because she thought, Oh,hewon’twanttowatchthat.

He’llfocusoneatingandgetreadytogo toschoolontime.Well, I fell in love with the local news when I was 7 or 8. And from that point on, I was like, Iwanttobe ajournalist.Thisiswheremypassionis. Is there a recent fashion clash you can remember that turned heads around the office? [Laughs.] I have some blazers that are a little controversial. There’s a white blazer that I absolutely love, but I don’t wear very often because it’s so bright. And sometimes viewers complain about it. They’re like, Ithurtsmyeyes I obviously don’t want to hurt anyone’s eyes, but I want people to tune in.

—LAUREN FISHER

By Oscar

By

FALL IN LOVE WITH YOUR NEXT BOOK

better medium for conversation around the emerging challenges in a complicated world. 1515 Vine St., Over-theRhine, (513) 427-3413, joyandmatts.com

2. THE TOME

In the age of Amazon, going to a brick and mortar to buy a book may seem like an old-fashioned notion. But these independent booksellers know that the spirit of the in-person experience is alive and well.

1. JOY AND MATT’S BOOKS

When Matt Stonecash, co-owner of Joy and Matt’s Books alongside Haixia “Joy” Niu, was exploring Cincinnati using Danny Korman and Katie Meyer’s book Walking Cincinnati, he found himself wishing that each neighborhood had its own bookstore. So, in 2021, he started

one. Since then, Joy and Matt’s Books has become a mainstay in Over-the-Rhine, priding itself on a well-curated selection of books “you won’t find anywhere

else,” Stonecash says. “We usually only carry a copy or two, so we don’t ship anything back.” His favorite section in the store is science, where he says books offer a

Jeremy Spencer (pen name J.M. Clark) spent most of his life in bookstores, so it seemed natural to open one while writing his own novels. “It’s always felt like home to me, from the smell of new or old books to the coffee roasting behind the counter,” he says. Spencer and his wife have curated their own collections on special tables at the store, which drives engagement with shoppers. “It’s fun because it’s a great icebreaker for customers who may have read the same books,” he says. While the store eyes future expansion, the heart of the business is in helping readers and writers feel “in the zone” with free community events. 2123 Beechmont Ave., Mt. Washington, (513) 206-0377, thetome bookstore.com

3. CONVEYOR BELT BOOKS

Before moving to Cincinnati, Brandon Thomas DiSabatino was a street vendor in New York City, selling books and dreaming of a brickand-mortar store. Today, DiSabatino co-owns Covington’s Conveyor Belt Books with Shelbi Schindler, offering titles that might otherwise not be available to Greater Cincinnati readers. Schindler says her idea of a vacation would be eight hours

in a museum—and the store’s art section is the next best thing—while DiSabatino prefers the poetry books. Together, they host monthly poetry readings and pop-ups with artists in their backyard. “One of the most rewarding things we’ve had in the shop is having someone pick up a book, turn around, and tell us, I can’t believe you have this. I’ve been looking for this everywhere,” says Schindler. 410 W. Pike St., Covington, (859) 360-2311

4. THE BOOKSHELF

Opened by a team of three women in 1975,

this Madeira bookstore is still running today under Chris Weber. She says many former teachers—all women as well—have held the role in the past half century. The community-based bookstore is a place where “everyone knows your name,” Weber says, and it’s built an especially close relationship with local schools, which receive regular donations. If you’re looking for a book you can’t find, just ask—the bookstore places orders weekly for customers. 7754 Camargo Rd., Madeira, (513) 2719140, cincybookshelf. indielite.org

LOCAL BOOKSTORES WITH ENOUGH PERSONALITY AND VIBE TO MAKE YOU FORGET ABOUT ONLINE ORDERING. —ALEXANDRA FROST

IF WALLS COULD TALK

JAYN MEINHARDT HAD QUESTIONS ABOUT HER HISTORIC EAST WALNUT Hills house from the start. She can still list them off, rapid-fire. “Why was there a sub-basement [when] the house had been built years after slavery had ended? Why were there religious artifacts boarded up in the tower room? Why was there a hand pump in the kitchen? Why were there two entrances into the front hall? Who painted those gorgeous frescoes?”

For a while, her questions went unanswered. But when she reached out to a local woman with the same last name as the one on a plaque near the front door, the response opened the floodgates: Grandpa’s house?

The Victorian eclectic home was built in the 1870s for J.F. Moorbrink, a prominent merchant tailor who made his fortune out fitting locals at his downtown shop. Moorbrook needed plenty of space for his brood of 12, and spared no expense building the 7,000-square-foot structure, with The En quirer noting that he “drew no boundaries in his search for the elegant.”

The Meinhardts got answers to their questions over tea, and while most of them weren’t as romantic as they’d imagined, they gave the new owners a stunning degree of insight into the lives of the home’s original residents. Instead of rounding up a dozen children for church each Sunday, for instance, the family converted the tower room into a chapel and had a priest stop by to give a weekly sermon.

The granddaughters knew about things that even the Meinhardts had never noticed, like the wall safe that had been wallpapered over and the origin of those “gorgeous” frescoes, which had been hand-painted by 18th century artist Wenceslaus Thein, whose talent was typically reserved for local churches. The Meinhardts, who have lived in the house since the mid-1970s, are saying a bittersweet farewell to their beloved McMillan home. But their “fervent” hope is to find a buyer who shares their enthusiasm and will appreciate the home for its vibrant history— and the families that came before.

AN EAST WALNUT HILLS HOME, A TOWER CHAPEL, AND A TEA PARTY THAT BUILT A BRIDGE BETWEEN TWO FAMILIES. —LAUREN FISHER

FLAT FEE LLC

RyanKiefer

AnnLafferty

AshokGhildyal

Robert DiederichsenIII

freshly-sliced rare roast beef, writing off the cost by doing some investigative reporting on the topic.

Two different Kroger delis told us the same thing: You are far from the only customer to raise this issue. Those who wish their price label stuck squarely on the side of the bag need only ask, and many employees do it that way anyway. Kroger supervisors mandate, however, that all sliced meats placed in their “Grab & Go” display cases must be sealed in exactly the frustrating way you describe. We weren’t given an official reason for this, but it’s probably to prevent customers from opening and tasting the meat and then putting it back, because some human beings are disgusting. So order at the counter, and enjoy your slice of life.

Driving on Duck Creek Road in Evanston, I pass intersections at Bevis, Wabash, and Evanston avenues. None of them are real intersections, though— each requires a weird turn to continue across Duck Creek Road. My guess is that something happened here. Can you investigate?

—DUCK WHEN CROSSING DUCK CREEK

When I get fresh-sliced meat at the Kroger Deli, the workers always seal the price label so it goes over the bag’s top and down the front. There’s no way to open it without tearing a hole in the bag.

Am I the only one who is driven crazy by this? Can you talk them out of doing this?

DEAR DON’T:

In general, the Doctor avoids topics that approach the “On Your Side/ We’re Fighting for You” type of TV news activism. We try to stay in our lane. But it’s hard to resist, when one orders a nice pound of

DEAR DUCK:

The obvious answer is on your left: Interstate 71. You may not even be aware that all three streets continue on the other side of the highway. Before I-71’s rude interruption, they must have cleanly and straightly crossed Duck Creek Road.

Except they didn’t. The “obvious” answer, if we smugly decide to skip our research, turns out to be the wrong one. While you can blame the highway for the unkind cut that severed the three streets, those distorted intersections at Duck Creek Road are several hundred feet away. And a detailed city map from about 1917—a time when the only use of the word interstate was invariably coupled with commerce in Supreme Court decisions—shows that all three intersections were just as nonintersected as they are today.

—WE DON’T HAVE THE MEATS

Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, radio personality and advertising prankster. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

Duck Creek Road, once a long and important Cincinnati thoroughfare, is now a shattered series of stump streets thanks to various highways. But neither it nor Interstate 71 is responsible for your distracted worry about these Evanston cross streets. Turn up your radio, and keep your eyes straight ahead.

Please settle an argument. The Remke Market in Hyde Park Plaza just closed, and my friend and I disagree about what business was at that location before Remke. She says it was a Bigg’s. I say it was a Goodyear tire dealer, Hyde Park Tire. I remember buying tires there! So I’m right, right?

—BRAGGING WRONGS

DEAR BRAGGING:

That’s right, you’re wrong. But so is your friend. In fact, this is a rare instance of two wrongs being right. To wit: Your friend is correct about bigg’s (too-cutely spelled with a small b), which was there before Remke. But she is also wrong, because the two groceries were actually the same. The store opened in 2005 as bigg’s, and when Remke bought the company in 2010 it became Remke-bigg’s. The store itself, though, did not change. They quietly dropped “bigg’s” in 2013.

Therefore, while your friend is technically correct that Remke was formerly bigg’s, she is technically incorrect because bigg’s had been basically the same store. So you’re slightly more correct about the true previous tenant: Hyde Park Tire, in that location from 1980 to 2005. But they shared the footprint with a Thriftway grocery, which had previously been an Ames/Zayre’s discount store when dinosaurs walked the earth. Therefore that makes you slightly incorrect by a now-incalculable fraction.

Thank you for giving the Doctor this opportunity to be King Solomon.

WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD

BY JUDI KETTELER

New Ways to Get Old

THE HEAVY TRADE-OFF OF GAINING WISDOM AND CONFIDENCE WHILE LOSING RELEVANCE.

OONE TUESDAY IN MAY, I WOUND UP AT BETHESDA NORTH’S EMERGENCY ROOM AT 3 A.M. The ER is never a place you want to be, and definitely not at 3 a.m. My lower back and right hip flexor were in excruciating pain, and my right thigh was numb. As for what caused this agony? Gardening. Lifting a pot that was too heavy but wasn’t really that heavy at all. You’d think the refrain on a loop in my head would have been, I’m in pain, I’m in pain, I’m in pain. Why am I in so much pain? But instead, it was this: I am old, I am old, I am old. How did I get so old?

“Old” is relative. By it, I mean I’m not the Judi who could do all the things she used to do without a second thought, like lifting barely heavy pots and pulling weeds and running up and down stairs with confidence and sitting on a barstool without a back. Where did she go?

Did my 40s swallow her, or is it down to having bad luck over a couple of years: broken bones and tendonitis and freaky skin infections and what looks like it might be the start of a bunion on my left foot and heartburn in the middle of the night if I eat before bed and not remembering actors’ names? Are these anomalies, or a picture of my future?

I don’t want to be one of those people who bemoan getting older and refuse to celebrate birthdays. And by those people, I’m referring to my husband. I love the man something fierce, but wow. He really goes on (and on) about how depressing he finds aging to be.

I want to embrace my third act. Fourth act? I’ve lost track of how the acts work and what act I’ll be in next. The point is, I want to love my age no matter what it is. But I can’t get beyond one basic fact that surprises me, gnaws at me, and sits on my chest during heartburn resulting from the terrible decision to eat a bowl of potato chips before bed: I am scared. Scared that the best years are not ahead of me, the way I’ve always assumed they are.

Suddenly, I’m forced to make the case to myself that getting older is a terrific deal, the way one might peddle an older model sedan with “Well-maintained, runs great” written on the windshield. My inner car salesperson knows just what to say: Tell me, Judi, what do I have to do to put you in old age?

OLDER PEOPLE ARE INVISIBLE. NOT SO much individual older people, like those who happen to be president. But as a group.

To be fair, older people have never been invisible to the geriatricians, the anthropologists, the younger people with old souls. But so many of us are like Muggles on Platform 9¾, walking around in oblivion while wizards run full speed with owls in tow.

The difference is that the non-magic can’t become magic but, barring premature death, the young always become old. And yet most of us walk along the platform right up until we need reading glasses to see that it says 9¾.

It’s why I’m now intentionally noticing older people. I’m defining “older” by something like age 74 and up, but it’s a look more than a number. Paying better attention is one way to be less ageist and more aware of

the needs of older people.

My car salesperson alter ego is also searching for potential previews of my elder years. I’m especially observant at the Y, where I go to swim laps and take a strengthtraining class. I do both in the middle of the day, since I work from home, which means a good many of the people I see working out or swimming alongside me are retired.

That alone makes me happy. You’ll have more time when you’re old! I sell myself hard. More flexibility to do things in the middle of the day!

Except as a person who’s been self-

employed for 20 years, I already have flexibility. Which is why I’m there. So perhaps that’s a wash.

But wait, there’s more! Older people also seem to know each other. They talk to each other. Catch up on weekend happenings. Community, I think. Friendship

I turn these ideas around in my mind

to the way older people move. Slower, yes. More deliberate, yes. But also with a kind of confidence that comes from living on Earth longer.

There are a few women I regularly see swimming laps who I’m guessing are in their late 70s. One has a pink cap, a navy suit, and a smooth breaststroke. She could have been an Olympic swimmer in her day for all I know. So maybe she’s an anomaly. But her attitude catches my eye more than her technique. She dives right in, with no squirming around because the water is too cold.

and start a mental list of what to try to avoid in old age. Don’t become a hermit. Don’t isolate. Don’t find yourself in the middle of a pandemic when you’re 80. What are the chances it would happen again? (I don’t answer that.)

I also find myself paying more attention

Persistence. Showing up. Taking a hold of a challenge. I know how to do these things. So how do I safeguard them so that I can become my pink-capped role model?

THE OTHER THING I’M DOING IS TALKING a lot about death and widowhood. I have a financial services client who hired me to write a series of pieces about how

FOLLOW US

I WONDER IF CONFIDENCE IN OLD AGE COMES AT THE COST OF RELEVANCE. IS IT EASIER TO EMBRACE WHO YOU ARE BECAUSE THE WORLD HAS STOPPED NOTICING YOU?

women need to take special care to prepare for retirement and understand financial matters—since research shows that eight out of 10 women will wind up solely responsible for their finances.

At first, I thought that was macabre. Then I decided I should understand what this stock market thing is.

That’s all fine for the financial services blogosphere, but it turns out these are not popular topics of conversation with people in their 30s. I have a younger group of friends who are newer friends to me, but I’ve come to cherish them.

Our Slack group seemed like the perfect place to start a conversation about preparing for eventual widowhood— financially and emotionally. After all, women have longer life expectancies than men; according to the U.S. Census Bureau, among those who’d ever been married, 54 percent of women over 75 were widows, whereas only 19 percent of men over 75 were.

It only took a few horrified responses to realize that I was inflicting trauma on my millennial girlfriends. Oops, sorry! I said. Well, I’m not really that sorry. But you know millennials, with their participation trophies and insistence on not thinking about dead spouses.

Which brings me to the thing I’m holding up as The Best Part of Being Old. The thing I am banking on being true; if it is, hand over the keys to the old-age sedan! I’m talking, of course, about that unique ability to Just Not Care What Others Think.

I don’t mean harming others or making up lies that get people killed, like at least one older person who used to be president is doing with his old age. I mean really and truly accepting and loving who you are and walking around the world with a beautiful “Take it or leave it” confidence.

But I wonder if the confidence comes at the cost of relevance. That it’s only easier to embrace who you are because the world has decided to stop noticing you? Sure, we

never stopped noticing Betty White. But she was freaking Betty White. What chances do the unfunny masses of us stand?

Can’t we have both spunk and spotlight? Why does one have to be at the cost of the other? And while we’re at, can I figure out something to do about the osteoporosis lurking in my genetic code?

This is the point at which my inner car salesperson worries she’s losing the sale. She tries to throw in wheel polish and an extended warranty.

The concern is misplaced, though, because my buy-in isn’t necessary. The car will get delivered to my driveway one day no matter what I say or do.

But my exercise isn’t for nothing. I have a friend—a fellow creative for hire—who calls the first part of any project, when you’re trying to get to know the client and the scope of the work, “Getting not dumb.” I’m getting not dumb about getting older. Step one: Make young people lift all the heavy pots.

THE

PRINCESSES

Joseph McDonough music & lyrics by David Kisor

book by

RODNEY WILSON

Stories With Cigars

CIGARMAKER ALEX SPENCER SHARES HIS AND CINCINNATI’S HISTORY ONE PUFF AT A TIME.

SIGMUND FREUD, FATHER OF PSYCHOANALYSIS AND NOTED CIGAR ENTHUSIAST, ONCE famously commented, “Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar.” OK, maybe it’s a false attribution, but still. That isn’t the kind of stogie Alex Spencer is interested in. For him, cigars are multi-layered vehicles for telling stories and a surefire way to strike up a conversation.

“I realized that cigars are a great entryway to sparking conversations with people I’d never met in my life,” says Spencer. “Whether they smoke or not, most people have an uncle or a grandfather who readily enjoys them. The smell of the cigar has a potent memory and usually brings a smile to people’s faces. So I started carrying cigars wherever I went.”

Raised on the west side, the Hughes High School graduate earned a bachelor’s degree in economics from the University of Cincinnati and an MBA from Xavier University.

His business education started much earlier, though, as he traveled with his parents during his childhood. “They owned a painting company and used to paint fast food stores like McDonald’s, Burger King, Wendy’s,” says Spencer, “and we’d travel every summer to these different places. So I first experienced the world through their entrepreneurial eyes.”

He didn’t immediately take up the mantle of self-employment, working for a few years in the finance department of a Massachusetts-based media tech company. Even then, he fostered a certain business sense that would eventually lead to developing his own product. He recounts a business trip to Boston and a chance meeting with a man who turned out to be the CEO of Benjamin Moore & Co. “I said, Hey, let me get your business card,” Spencer recalls.

“He looked at me and said, You don’t need it. Keep doing what you’re doing. What he meant was, Follow your passion . He saw something in me I didn’t see in myself.”

SPENCER WAS ALREADY HOT ON THE heels of his passion when he moved back to Cincinnati, partnering with a cigarmaker out of North Carolina to produce handrolled cigars. He sold them around town, hauling a 200-count humidor to bar patios to sell his wares. He also delivered within the I-275 loop for customers who met a minimum order requirement. And in 2018, realizing his passion had led him somewhere special, he decided to go all in.

“When the opportunity came, it was to either choose cigars or the line of business I was in,” he says. “I don’t know how to have one foot in and one foot out. I’m the person who cannonballs into the water rather than sticking in his tippy toes.”

He clearly made the right choice. Demand for his cigars grew so much that Spencer soon moved production to a fac

bounds over the ensuing decades, acquiring other factories and, in the early 1940s, boasting monthly production of more than 1 million cigars sold under the trade names Sonada, M. Ibold, Black Peter, El Rico, Majestic, and Ology.

You may wonder if Kentucky tobacco farms contributed much to this local boom, and the answer is not really. “Cuba was the early source of cigar tobacco and cigars,” says Macejko. “That changed when the government taxed handmade cigars entering the U.S. Tobacco growers, predominantly from Cuba, got around those taxes by importing raw tobacco leaves, untaxed, into Key West, Florida, and eventually Ybor City in Tampa.”

Spencer attributes the decline in cigar production in Cincinnati to economic challenges posed by World War II: Local factory workers went off to war, and wartime struggles killed off sales of luxury items such as cigars. “So really,” he says, “I’m trying to bring back a bit of Cincinnati history, even if we’re not making them here.”

a lot more about the city I’m from,” he says. “Cincinnati is a special place, and if people can see what I’ve experienced in the city that will be enough for me. That’s ulti mately what I want people to be left with.”

The Mansa is available at both Jungle Jim’s locations, Over the Rhine Premium Cigars, Blaze Cigar Bar, and The Party Source, or online at boutiquesmoke.com.

Spencer has more stories to tell, of course, and his next one is even more deeply personal. The Alex Spencer Reserve Cigar is being developed to communicate surprising discoveries his family made while studying its genealogy. “Nobody ever told me our family story until I got into cigars and started to pick up that we actually had lineage back to tobacco,” he says.

tory in Honduras recommended by his overwhelmed North Carolina producer.

If his career trajectory sounds kind of random, you should know that just a few generations ago Cincinnati was one of the top cigar cities in the U.S., a fact Spencer himself is keenly aware of. “My business name, Cincinnati Cigar Company, is a direct nod to the city’s history in the 1920s as one of the top producers in the country,” he says.

The dominant brand in Cincinnati cigars was Ibold, says David Macejko of Over-theRhine Premium Cigars. He says that through the early 1900s they were known as “the working man’s cigar.”

The Ibold Cigar Company was founded in 1884 and grew to occupy a 13,000-square-foot, five-story production facility at Ninth Street and Central Avenue downtown. The company grew by leaps and

CINCINNATI CIGAR COMPANY’S FIRST product is the Mansa, which Spencer calls an open letter to his deceased father, who told him stories of the 14th-century African king Mansa Musa and other Black historical figures. Mansa cigars are a way to share that story with the world, he says. “I wanted to take the story and break it into three parts in the cigar: an introduction, a peak, and an ending. Bringing that into the Mansa’s tobacco blend, we can tell a story for people while they smoke it.”

Story, says Spencer, is one of three layers built into his cigars, the other two being complexity and quality. But if you enjoy one of Spencer’s cigars and don’t necessarily experience the three-part concerto he set out to create, that’s OK. But he hopes you feel his hometown love. “I want people, when they smoke the cigar, to want to learn

Spencer says he learned that enslaved ancestors on his mother’s side worked on tobacco farms in Florida, moving through plantations in Alabama and the Carolinas. He traces his father’s side to Maryland tobacco farms before a westward move landed family members in Tennessee, then Kentucky, and eventually Cincinnati. “We found the home of the slave master that owned my ancestors on a tobacco farm deep down South,” he says. “My connection to tobacco history kind of struck a nerve, and I thought, Wow, I now own what we— and so many others—used to be owned to do. That was very powerful to me. You think this is something you fell in love with randomly, but it was always part of your history. It kind of puts into perspective who you are and where you come from.”

The end of slavery marked the end of his family’s work in tobacco, says Spencer, so his ancestors moved north in pursuit of factory work—until, of course, Spencer revived the narrative. “I love to tell everybody that Black history is American history and African history is world history. We have to tell all the parts, and tell it like it is.”

Spencer is working on the Mansa II and just moved production to esteemed Dominican Republic manufacturers La Aurora Cigars, which he calls “a dream come true.” And after that? Well, that story is still being written.

“I see the cigars as works of art,” he says. “I want to tell a different story about where I’m from, where I’ve been, and what I’ve seen along the way.”

“I WANT PEOPLE, WHEN THEY SMOKE THE CIGAR, TO WANT TO LEARN A LOT MORE ABOUT THE CITY I’M FROM. CINCINNATI IS A SPECIAL PLACE.”

A DAY IN

LIVES

J. Watkins

In between the restaurant openings, cultural events, trendsetters, and holidays we tend to highlight in Cincinnati Magazine , thousands of Cincinnatians happily live their everyday lives. We see you, too, and recruited two dozen local photographers to follow along on your journeys over a typical 24-hour period. Meet the artists on page 62.

All Set

Norwood High School's ( from left ) Austin Partin, Nilen Clark, Malakai Longieliere, Carlos Verastegui, and Marvin Paulino practice in the late afternoon.

by MARLENE ROUNDS

by GRANT MOXLEY

RISE AND SHINE

Blair Fornshell, owner of Brown Bear Bakery, starts work before dawn in Over-the-Rhine. Early risers and morning commuters will soon be glad she did.

NOW HEAR THIS

Q102’s “Jeff & Jenn” morning show gets listeners up and going Monday through Friday: ( from left ) Fritsch, Tim, Jenn, and Jeff.

THE FIT BIT

Like workout clubs across the region, SOTO Community Fitness in Ft. Thomas has a dedicated early morning clientele.

by CHRIS PASION

PULLING TOGETHER

The University of Cincinnati Rowing Club gets in some early morning practice on the Little Miami River and Ohio River near California Woods.

by CHRIS VON HOLLE

by ANDREW DOENCH

IN HER HANDS

Sandra Starnes, M.D., scrubs in to prepare for surgery at UC Health, where she is Division Chief of Cardiothoracic Surgery and a professor at UC College of Medicine.

by RYAN KURTZ

SWEET BOY

Gorman Heritage Farm Executive Director Nicole Gunderman greets Eddie the Zebu steer, who loves attention during school field trips and summer day camps.

by ROMAIN MAYAMBI

by ANGIE LIPSCOMB

by HAILEY BOLLINGER

IN THE NAME OF THE FATHER Catholic mass at Holy Cross Immaculata Church in Mt. Adams.

G’DAY, MATES!

It’s breakfast time at Roo Valley, where Cincinnati Zoo guests can experience two native Australian species up close: kangaroos and little blue penguins.

KEEP ON TRUCKIN’

Fountain Square is always a popular place for downtown workers and visitors to grab lunch, especially when food trucks pull up on the plaza.

L O O Sixt h Wint Sch o by d e p a pe

by FRANK DUANE YOUNG

YOU’VE GOT MAIL

Lavar Gentry delivers to the Cincinnati Observatory in Mt. Lookout on a day without rain, sleet, or snow. He’s worked for the U.S. Postal Service for four and a half years.

by SHON CURTIS

WES

3:00 PM

WHERE’S THE FIRE?

It’s a quiet afternoon on Hyde Park Square, where members of Cincinnati Fire Department Station 46 pass time with neighbors in front of their 1908 firehouse.

b y HATSUE

Home Sweet Home

Nikki Siababa chops red cabbage while preparing for a taco dinner party with friends in Over-the-Rhine.

The Last Light

Emmaline Carter and Jackson Schad watch the sun set over downtown from a quiet spot atop Mt. Adams.

Rolling on the River

The Anderson Ferry does its part to carry rush hour traffic that’s not in much of a rush.

Ferry boats have worked this part of the Ohio River for more than 200 years.

PM

b y Kyle Woodford

Dylan Bauer

by BRIAN STEEGE

by KEVIN J. WATKINS

A NUMBERS GAME

Play your cards right at Mad Max Bingo in Cheviot, where bingo players from across the city gather on Friday and Sunday evenings.

JUMP FOR JOY Sonny Ward of Norwood High School is happy to be alive and practicing after school with his teammates.

by DEVYN GLISTA

by MICHAEL WILSON

BREAK A LEG

Rachael Petranek takes a break backstage at the Warsaw Federal Incline Theater in Price Hill, where she’s performing in Rodgers and Hammerstein’s Carousel

DOWNTOWN TRANSFERS

( From left ) Luevernon Cross, Khelin Martin, and Adam Herold wait for a Metro bus at Government Square.

WASH AND WEAR

Tyiesha Honaker settles in for a few cycles at the 24-hour laundromat in the Greenhills Shopping Center.

by TINA GUTIERREZ

by CATIE VIOX

LATE NIGHT HAVEN

Camp Washington Chili has been a local late night tradition for generations. The restaurant is open 24 hours a day six days a week (closed Sundays).

by JUSTIN SCHAFER

THE CIRCLE OF LIFE

Overnight road construction is a way of life in the Cincinnati area. Here road crews work on the Silverton exit off of I-71 North.

CLEANING UP

Blake Lipper helps close up The Hub OTR on Main Street. He’s an artist when he isn’t bartending, working out of the Lambda Research studios in Brighton.

by JEREMY KRAMER

by LANCE ADKINS

IS ANYONE THERE?

Matthew Spragen, director of public safety and security at the Cincinnati Museum Center, patrols the overnight hours. He won’t say if the dinosaurs come to life a la Night at the Museum.

A DAY IN OUR LIVES PHOTOGRAPHERS

These 24 local shooters brought their own connections within Cincinnati and their unique artistic styles to documenting a day in our collective lives. Many are regular contributors to Cincinnati Magazine . We appreciate their enthusiasm and love for this city.

LANCE ADKINS

@_lanceadkins, lanceadkins.com

Years behind the camera: 15 (4 in Cincinnati)

Specializes in: Food, portraits, live music

Favorite project: Shooting a music feature story. “That was a fun blend of the editorial style ... and my own style of capturing the local music scene that brought me to Cincinnati in the first place.”

WES BATTOCLETTE

@wesley.michael.photo, wesleymichaelphoto.com

Years behind the camera: 14

Specializes in: Architecture

Favorite project: Working on the photography book Sacred Places of Kentucky.

HAILEY BOLLINGER

@haileybollingerphoto, haileybollingerphoto.com

Years behind the camera: 10 (in Cincinnati)

Specializes in: Weddings, real estate, branding, lifestyle

Favorite project: A Euphoria -inspired shoot for Flohemian Floral.

DYLAN BAUER

@_dylanbauer_

Years behind the camera: 10 (in Cincinnati)

Specializes in: Products, food

Favorite project: Shooting images for Habitat Skateboards’ Twin Peaks -themed collection.

SHON CURTIS

@iamshoncurtis, shoncurtis.com

Years behind the camera: 7

Specializes in: Editorial and portraits

Favorite project: West Dayton branding project

ANDREW DOENCH

@andrewdoench, andrewdoench.com

Years behind the camera: 20 (12 professionally)

Specializes in: Portraiture, food

Favorite Projects: Faces of Cincinnati and Women Who Move for Cincinnati Magazine “I got to meet some of the amazing people who make Cincinnati the great place it is.”

DEVYN GLISTA

@st.blanc.studios, stblancstudios.com

Years behind the camera: 5 Specializes in: Portraits

TINA GUTIERREZ

@ tinagutierrezartsphotography

Specializes in: Underwater, social justice and protest photography, fine art, commercial portraits

HATSUE

@byhatsue, hatsue.site

Specializes in: Food, product, stop-motion, set design, portraits

CHRIS VON HOLLE

@chrisvonholle, chrisvonholle.com

Years behind the camera: 5 (in Cincinnati)

Specializes in: Editorial, advertising, portraits, architecture

Favorite project: Photographing mountain bikes in Costa Rica for a branding campaign.

JEREMY KRAMER

@jeremykramerphoto, jeremykramerphoto.com

Years behind the camera: 10

Specializes in: Editorial and commercial photography

Favorite project: “It’s too hard for me to pinpoint one specific project. I just love what I do.”

RYAN KURTZ

ryankurtz.com

Years behind the camera: 23

Specializes in: Commercial photography, lifestyle, healthcare, food, products, architecture

Favorite project: “Anything that involves photographing bourbon.”

ANGIE LIPSCOMB

@angielipscombphoto, angielipscombphotography. com

Years behind the camera: 13

Specializes in: Human stories

Favorite project: “I most love photographing dreamers and do-ers, people who work to create a better place for all of us.”

ROMAIN MAYAMBI

@romainmaya

Years behind the camera: 5

Specializes in: Portraits, fashion photography

Favorite project: “One that I did last year called ‘Agua.’ I allowed myself to step out of my comfort zone. It was a scary yet amazing feeling.”

GRANT MOXLEY

@g.mox

Years behind the camera: 9 (in Cincinnati)

Specializes in: Documentary, photojournalism, action sports

Favorite project: Working with B.A.S.S. Bassmasters Tournament Fishing.

CHRIS PASION @_chrispasion

Years behind the camera: 5. “I first picked up a camera in 2017 and have been wandering around with my eyes peeled ever since.”

Specializes in: Editorial, documentary, landscape, portraiture

Favorite project: “ Documenting my three nieces as they grow up.”

MARLENE ROUNDS

@marlenerounds

Years behind the camera: 19 (7 in Cincinnati)

Specializes in: Advertising, products, beauty

Favorite project: Shooting botanicals for Olay Body and the cover for Cincinnati Magazine ’s ice cream issue in May 2021.

CATHERINE VIOX @catieviox, catherinegracephoto.com

Years behind the camera: 10-plus

Specializes in: Food, branding

Favorite project: “I work a lot with my friend Stephanie, who runs Zest Cincy, creating content for restaurants and brands locally and beyond.”

KEVIN J. WATKINS @shotbydubs, shotbydubs.com

Years behind the camera: 9

Specializes in: “Jack of all trades, master of none.”

Favorite project: The Cincinnati Art Museum’s first Black and Brown Faces exhibit. “Anything that highlights Black culture, sneaker culture, and hip-hop culture.”

MICHAEL WILSON

@micartwil, michaelwilson.pictures

Years behind the camera: 45

Specializes in: Portraits

JUSTIN SCHAFER @approxknow, akioc.com

Years behind the camera: 2 (in Cincinnati)

Specializes in: Aerial photography

Favorite project: Shooting the world’s largest horseshoe crab in Hillsboro, Ohio.

BRIAN STEEGE

@briansteege, briansteegephotography. com

Years behind the camera: 30-plus

Specializes in: Animals, lifestyle, kids

Favorite project: “I did have an awesome Eukanuba project a few years back where I spent an entire day photographing black labs in Napa, California.”

KYLE WOODFORD

@kyle.tif, kylewoodford.com

Years behind the camera: 6

Specializes in: Film photography, portraits

Favorite project: Shooting for Cincinnati Magazine . “[This is] my first published work, so it’s a pretty big deal for me.”

FRANK DUANE

YOUNG

@melaninandhalide

Years behind the camera: 13

Specializes in: Portraits

Favorite project: “Since 2015, I have been documenting the beautiful, beautiful people who live in Cincinnati.”

Tickets and information at: cincinnatimagazine.com/savor

Experience Savor: Chef’s Table, a fresh take on our classic dinner series. Be sure to #savorthedate with us and support our favorite local restaurants while enjoying a unique five-course dinner. Limited tickets available.

Presented

CELEBRITY EATS An ESPN.com shoutout from Bengals Head Coach Zac Taylor put E+O Kitchen’s crispy Brussels sprouts and kale salad on the map.

SEAFOOD IN HYDE PARK P. 68 FRIED CHICKEN IN LOVELAND P. 70 EAST WALNUT HILLS CANTINA P. 72 NEW MADISONVILLE FOOD HALL P. 74

SEA CHANGE

E+O KITCHEN reinvents itself with stunning success.

—BRANDON WUSKE

IN AN APRIL 2016 REVIEW OF HIP ASIAN/LATIN SURF AND TURF SPOT E+O KITCHEN, OUR reviewer saw glimmers of hope for the fledgling Hyde Park eatery, but concluded that it struggled to hit the mark. Now, six years, an additional location at The Banks, a high-end downtown Greek restaurant (OKTO), and an ESPN.com shoutout later, we’re pleased to report that E+O hits the mark with precision.

The website shoutout was for the “E+O Famous Crispy Brussels Sprouts and Kale Salad,” which started my refreshing dinner in the sleek, sunny Hyde Park dining room. True to the restaurant’s name, the lightly fried dish combines the best of land and sea. Earthy Brussels sprouts and crispy kale, red onion, and purple cabbage, all sweetened and spiced with chile-lime vinaigrette, jalapeños, and pickled Fresno chiles, make the perfect bed for juicy white wine-poached shrimp. It was the unanimous dish of the night. I was in good company. None other than Bengals Head Coach Zac Taylor expressed his love for the now-famous dish in the aforementioned ESPN.com article. For E+O, coach and dish became inextricably linked after the article’s release. “We get a lot of people coming in ordering the ‘Zac Taylor salad,’ ” Corporate Chef Ben Toney says.

Like Taylor, Toney took the helm just a couple of years ago, under the worst possible circumstances. In early 2020 the restaurant, which former Beluga owner Mike Hama opened in partnership with Chicago chef and television star Rodelio Aglibot (a.k.a. “The Food Buddha”), was struggling. The Earth and Ocean Restaurant Group took over, bringing in Toney, Director of Operations Tim Weiss, and Marketing Director Tony Castelli. The new owners also turned to Aglibot, who had stepped away from direct

FYI E + O Kitchen

3520 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 832-1023, eokitchen.com

Hours

Lunch and dinner Mon–Fri 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; brunch, lunch, and dinner Sat & Sun 10 a.m.–10 p.m.

Prices

$6 (Loaded White Miso Soup & Scallions)–$45 (Surf & Turf)

Credit Cards

All major

The Takeaway Asian/Latin-infused surf and turf with an emphasis on laid-back vibes and fresh seafood.

DOWN TO EARTH (From left) E+O’s sesame steak taco; the famous crispy Brussels sprouts and kale salad takes center stage; the Hyde Park restaurant’s exterior; Sushi Master Juan Sanchez Molina and Marketing Director Tony Castelli.

involvement with the restaurant, to help right the ship. For six weeks, he worked alongside Toney, training him in his new role at the restaurant. Then, on March 28, 2020, Aglibot missed a meeting.

“We ended up going to his house,” Toney explains. “It wasn’t like him to miss a scheduled meeting.”

That’s when they discovered that Aglibot had suffered a massive heart attack and passed away. His death sent shockwaves throughout the food world, but especially at E+O. Not only did the newly formed restaurant group lose a personality that Toney describes as “larger than life,” it also lost his treasure trove of culinary knowledge.

For much of the COVID-19 shutdown, Toney—whose 20-year career includes stints at Sturkey’s, Trio, and the Golden Lamb— worked with his team to recreate Aglibot’s storied dishes. They also pared the menu down, making it easier to execute.

One of the hallmarks of E+O’s menu is fresh seafood. Toney orders fish four times a week, on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. “We’ll put our seafood against anyone in the city,” he says. It’s a bold claim, but a legitimate one. A citrusy, subtly spiced shrimp ceviche, with its potpourri of sweet corn, red onion, avocado, tomato, and more of that chile-lime dressing, tasted like it had just been beamed from some Peruvian beach. It was served with crispy wonton chips for dipping, a reminder that this is Latin/Asian fusion food, which is a difficult pairing to pull off. The restaurant’s commitment to freshness and simplicity helps make the pairing a natural one. My sesame crusted tuna entrée, served with purple rice and roasted bok choy, had the velvety

firmness of a rare Wagyu steak, the sesame seasoning and glaze allowing the fish’s flavor to shine.

A quick flip of the menu is proof that E+O takes its sushi seriously. The sushi dishes take up the whole back side. Nigiri and sashimi are well represented, but the main draw is the restaurant’s offbeat specialty rolls. We opted for the “Hey Vinnie,” a tempura salmon, avocado, and asparagus roll topped with tuna, jalapeño, cilantro, sweet unagi sauce, and a piquant wasabi aioli. Tempura salmon, by the way, is a dish that I had never seen before, but now want to gobble up like some streamside grizzly. This colorful roll was, simply put, the best I have had in Greater Cincinnati.

The menu at The Banks location is largely the same as the Hyde Park menu, with one notable exception: “The Griddy Burger.” This monster of a burger, named in honor of star Bengals wide receiver Ja’Marr Chase (known for his celebratory on-field dance, “The Griddy”), comes stacked with Sriracha cream cheese, bacon jam, and good ol’ Grippo’s. Castelli tells me the group decided to open a second location at The Banks because they wanted to be part of the excitement between the two stadiums. The fact that Paul Brown (sorry, Paycor) Stadium suddenly became the hottest place to be in Cincinnati is a lucky break for a restaurant group that had to figure things out the hard way after losing its founder.

All of this is to say that the restaurant proudly carries on Aglibot’s legacy. “So much of our commitment to excellence comes from Chef Buddha’s guidance and example,” Castelli says. “I still remember him making us meals from scratch in a closed-down restaurant as we nervously planned what our next move would be.” Nervousness long gone, those moves have paid dividends. I can picture Chef Buddha beaming.

Bird’s the Word

WHEN MARGARET RANALLI ANNOUNCED SHE WOULD CLOSE HER LOCALLY BELOVED Enoteca Emilia earlier this year, the news came with a heaping side of heartbreak for the restaurant’s many fans. Luckily, she returned with Lovebird, an eatery inspired by her time in Charleston, South Carolina.

The restaurant is, first and foremost, a fried chicken joint, and while the fried chicken is indeed delicious, the menu goes deep into Southern cuisine. Start with the fried green tomatoes, thick, tangy slices with a side of flavorful comeback sauce. Follow that up with the LoveBird favorite shrimp and grits, a dish of tomato, country ham, shrimp, and poached egg atop fluffy grits, all drowned in a green onion red-eye gravy that turns the taste up to 11. As for entrées, it doesn’t get more Southern than the chicken and waffles, a crispy, buttery Belgian waffle topped with fried chicken breast and spiced watermelon on the side, and the traditional fried chicken biscuit, a crumbly mess of fried goodness with a dollop of coleslaw. For sides, the collard greens, mac and cheese, and scalloped potatoes are all excellent presentations of classic Southern fare.

The restaurant also serves up quality libations from its expansive bar. Sip on the refreshing blueberry mint julep or enjoy the LoveBird Long Island. All in all, there’s a lot to love at this Southern food sanctuary.

—RODNEY WILSON

LoveBird, 110 S. Second St., Loveland, (513) 583-0300, eatatlovebird.com

THE FOOD HUSSY WEBSITE owner’s first book of recipes comes out this winter.

How did you get into food blogging?

I was single and going out to eat a lot, so I started doing restaurant reviews. That gets pricey and fattening so I moved to recipe creation.

Tell us about Air Fryer Cooking for One. I was approached by a publishing house to create that specific topic cookbook. My air fryer expertise is why they approached me.

Speaking of cookbooks, you’re in Brian Baumgartner’s Seriously Good Chili Cookbook. I’m a huge fan of The Office and saw a call for chili recipes online. I submitted five recipes, and they were all accepted.

How did it feel to win the “superfan” episode of Guy’s Grocery Games? It was the coolest thing ever! It’s a bucket list thing to be on Food Network. I can’t even express how thrilled, giddy, excited, and terrified I was!

What’s your ultimate dream for your career? I would love to have my own show.

What lessons did you learn from your appearance on the show? I learned to be confident in my cooking. I was so intimidated by my competitors, but we were all in the same boat. I have some skills, and I can cook. It also helped me realize that I should just always be me.

AIESHA D LITTLE

The Food Hussy thefoodhussy.com

Read a longer interview with Heather on cincinnatimagazine.com

Building a more inclusive community

one person at a time.

Starfire empowers people with developmental disabilities and their families to develop identities beyond disability, discover talents and create connections with ordinary citizens.

Together, we can break the barrier of isolation alongside people with developmental disabilities.

Wine Me Up

Drop by this cantina for a taste of Europe.

ALREADY ON ITS WAY TO BECOMING a well-known coffee shop, Symposium has so much more to offer. Providing a “European style of dining” in this moody, elegant venue inspired by London’s Explorer’s Club from the 19th century, the cantina offers canapes and charcuterie to complement your aperitif.

“We like to think the cantina occupies a space between a restaurant and a wine bar,” says co-owner J. Matt Nickels.

Come in, order a glass (or buy a bottle) of wine, beer, or a cocktail from the bar, plus a tasty treat (do not, we repeat, do not miss the goat cheese stuffed peppers), take a seat in the luxurious velvet chairs or step outside on the patio and your order will be brought to you.

The owners pride themselves on their expansive selection of alcohol, with unique options that can’t be easily found elsewhere. And if the food isn’t from Europe, you can be guaranteed it’s from within 100 miles of Cincinnati. “We always want to support artisans, be it beer, wine, food, or artists,” Nickels says. “We only want to feature products produced by people, rather than entities, equations, or equipment. We seek soul in our goods.”

Don’t sleep on the Bird on a Wire, Symposium’s delightfully elegant take on an espresso martini. And be sure to try the owners’ favorites, the Kingfisher Old Fashioned and the Magpie Gin & Tonic.

Whether you’re an early bird or a night owl, Symposium is for whenever you are.

—MARIELLE TROTTA

Symposium, 2835 Woodburn Ave., East Walnut Hills, symposiumcincinnati.com

ON THE ROCKS 2022

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE GATHERED AT MEGACORP PAVILION IN NEWPORT FOR A CELEBRATION OF SPIRITS AND COCKTAILS

Cincinnati Magazine readers and local spirits and cocktail fans sampled both food and a wide array of local and national spirits. Music, games, and main stage entertainment from high-spirited local bartender celebrities rounded out the evening.

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: Tito’s Handmade Vodka, On The Rocks, Jim Beam, Truly Vodka, The BMW Store, Ovation, Corporex, FIJI Water, Home Chef, Tiller Farms, Bartesian, The B-Line, Butterball, Nothing Bundt Cakes, Blox,

Poti9n,

KMK Law, and St. Elmo’s Steakhouse

PHOTOGRAPHS BY HARTONG DIGITAL MEDIA

PANTRY

IN ITS ELEMENT

—CARRIE BLACKMORE SMITH

Long before the September opening of Element Eatery, Madisonville’s new 34,500-square-foot food hall, Managing Director Tyler Troendle and Development Advisor Seth Barnhard visited more than 40 food halls around the country to evaluate what they liked about them.

“What we’re most excited about is to bring that to Cincinnati,” Troendle says. “All these different pieces from different food halls from other major cities.”

First, of course, is the food. Eight primary stalls serve up a variety of cuisines—including Taco Oso, Rokaru Ramen, po’boy stand Little Easy, mofongo slinger MashRoots, and soul food eatery San Jeanetta’s Table—allowing visitors to try something new or pick a twist on a familiar favorite. There’s also a salad bar, Urbana Coffee stand, La Grassa Gelato stand, and beer garden and bar.

When Guillermo Vidal and Arnaldo Vazquez started MashRoots out of the Findlay Kitchen incubator in 2017, they aimed to serve delicious Latin American food that was hard to find in Cincinnati, like their signature dish mofongo, which consists of fried plantains with garlic, salt, and olive oil, mashed with a wooden pilon and paired with meats, sauces, and veggies.

Vidal says being in a high traffic food hall allows them to celebrate Latin culture on a whole new level with its communal spaces and proximity to what Vidal sees as MashRoots’ key demographic: on-the-

go millennial and Gen Z young professionals interested in trying new foods and flavors.

Seating up to 400 indoors and 200 outside on three terraces, the space is designed to have quiet dining spots and lively gathering spaces, which will host live acoustic music inside and bands on an outdoor stage, plus places to gather for Cincinnati Reds and Bengals games.

Situated between The Summit Hotel and new cocktail bar Placebo off Madison Road, the eatery is part of the $250

million urban adaptive reuse project, Madison Square, jumpstarted by the move of Medpace, a clinical research organization, from Norwood to the former property of residential intercom manufacturer NuTone.

“We’re really trying to etch ourselves out as a premier dining location with more restaurants coming,” Troendle says. “It’s a great place where you can park, get an appetizer and drink at the food hall, or dine somewhere else. We want people to always feel there is something new to be had here.”

CREATORS CHERRY-PICKED WHAT THEY THINK MAKES A GREAT FOOD HALL.

Element Eatery, 5350 Medpace Way, Madisonville, element-eatery.com

SLICE NIGHT 2022

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE GUESTS GATHERED ALONG THE RIVER FOR THE NINTH ANNUAL SLICE NIGHT, BENEFITTING THE UNIVERSITY OF CINCINNATI CANCER CENTER.

Cincinnati Magazine readers and guests joined in an evening of fun for a good cause featuring local pizzerias. Attendees enjoyed “all-you-can-want” pizza, pasta, and dessert on a beautiful end-ofsummer evening at Yeatman’s Cove.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY HARTONG DIGITAL MEDIA

THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: Western & Southern, Pop Secret, Performance Food Service, Dellatorri, Storyteller, Magistrate, Tide Cleaners, Prego, Takis, Keebler, Stonefire, Chinet, and Boboli

Giving Help and Hope to Cincinnati Families

St. Vincent de Paul provides neighbors with essentials like food, clothing, beds, medicine, rent and utility assistance, and most of all, hope. We can’t do it without you. Donate at SVDPcincinnati.org/give.

DINING

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space

limitations, all of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit.

To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

AMERICAN

BOOMTOWN BISCUITS & WHISKEY

Boomtown leans hard into the Gold Rush theme: prospector-style overall aprons on servers, bluegrass tunes humming, and rustic decor details. And the dense grub isn’t for the faint of heart. Arrive with an empty belly, ready for a carbo load. The biscuits are all they’re cracked up to be, and the gravy’s not playing around, either. Sample its biscuits and gravy styles with a gravy flight. Or try The Yukon, an anytime breakfast sandwich, featuring fried chicken on par with the best the city has to offer. By the end of the meal, you’ll feel a little out of place without your own denim getup. 9039 U.S. Route 42, Suite H, Union, (859) 384-5910, boomtownbiscuitsandwhiskey. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues–Sat. Breakfast and lunch Sun. MCC. $

BROWN DOG CAFÉ

If you haven’t had a plate of Shawn McCoy’s design set in front of you, it’s about time. Many of the menu’s dishes show his knack for the plate as a palette. A trio of grilled lamb t-bone, boar tenderloin, and prawns in scampi butter is a standout. The eye for detail and contrasts of colors and textures belongs to someone who cares for food. 1000 Summit Place, Blue Ash, (513) 794-1610, browndogcafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat. MCC, DS. $$

THE EAGLE OTR

The revamped post office at 13th and Vine feels cozy but not claustrophobic, and it has distinguished itself with its stellar fried chicken. Even the white meat was pull-apart steamy, with just enough peppery batter to pack a piquant punch. Diners can order by the quarter, half, or whole bird—but whatever you do, don’t skimp on the sides. Bacon adds savory mystery to crisp corn, green beans, and edamame (not limas) in the succotash, and the crock of mac and cheese has the perfect proportion of sauce, noodle, and crumb topping. The Eagle OTR seems deceptively simple on the surface, but behind that simplicity is a secret recipe built on deep thought, skill, and love.

CHICKEN MOVES

Korean fried chicken chain bb.q Chicken, which has multiple locations across the United States and Canada, will take the empty street-level space downtown at 150 W. Fourth St. in early 2023.

bbqchicken.com

1342 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 802-5007, eaglerestaurant.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Mon–Thurs. MCC. $

EMBERS

The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asian-inspired (shrimp tempura); fashionable ingredients are name-checked (micro-greens and truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; Kobe beef on sushi rolls sidles up to steaks of prime; non-steak entrées (Chilean sea bass or Dover sole with haricots verts and almondine) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party.

8170 Montgomery Rd., Madeira, (513) 9848090, embersrestaurant.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$$$

GOOSE & ELDER

The third restaurant from chef Jose Salazar, Goose & Elder is a more everyday kind of joint compared to his others. The prices are lower, and most of the dishes, from burgers to grits, are familiar. Salazar’s menus have always hinted that the chef had a fondness for, well, junk food. But junk food is only junk if it is made thoughtlessly. Everything here is made with little twists, like the cumin-spiced potato chips and delicate ribbons of housemade cucumber pickles with a sweet rice wine vinegar. Even the fries, crinkle cut and served with “goose sauce,” a mildly spiced mayonnaise, are wonderfully addictive. The restaurant demonstrates that what we now consider “fast food” can be awfully good if someone makes it the old-fashioned, slow way.

1800 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 5798400, gooseandelder.com. Mon & Wed–Fri, dinner Mon & Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

MIGHTY GOOD

With a kitchen full of students from the Findlay Culinary Training Program, this “meat and three” makes food good enough that everyone involved can hang their chef’s hats on. (Served in a small skillet so it stays hot and slightly creamy throughout the meal, the baked mac and cheese casserole would be the favorite dish at any church potluck.)

At $15 for an entrée and three sides, Mighty Good offers one of the best values, not just in Over-theRhine, but in all of Greater Cincinnati.

1819 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 263-6893, mightygoodotr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues-Sat. MCC. $$

THE NATIONAL EXEMPLAR

The classics are here—prime rib with horseradish and au jus; liver and onions; an eight-ounce filet with bernaise—plus some new favorites, including short rib pasta. Or have breakfast, English-style: fried eggs, bacon, sausage, stewed beans, roasted tomatoes, and buttered toast. The dinner menu also features burgers, risotto, pasta, seafood, and plenty more lighter options.

6880 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 2712103, nationalexemplar.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

RED FEATHER KITCHEN

Historically peasant-grade cuts of meat get the full Pygmalion treatment at Red Feather in Oakley, where there’s deep respect for the time and tending necessary to bring a short rib, pork chop, or steak to its full potential. After a quick sear to lock in juices, the steak takes a turn in the wood-fired oven. While primal cuts play a leading role, the supporting cast is just as captivating. The French onion soup is especially warming on a winter evening and the crispy skin on the salmon acts as the foil to the plump, rich flesh. Service here only improves the experience.

3200 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 407-3631, redfeatherkitchen.com. Dinner Wed–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$$

THE SCHOOLHOUSE RESTAURANT

An old flag stands in one corner and pictures of Abe Lincoln and the first George W. hang on the wall of this Civil War–era schoolhouse. The daily menu of familiar Midwestern comfort fare is written in letter-perfect cursive on the original chalkboard. Once you order from a woman who bears an uncanny resemblance to your high school lunch lady, the elevated lazy Susan in the center of the table begins to fill up with individual bowls and baskets of corn bread, slaw, salad, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, and vegetables. The deal here is quantity. More mashed potatoes with your fried

chicken? More corn bread with your baked ham? You don’t even have to raise your hand.

8031 Glendale-Milford Rd., Camp Dennison, (513) 8315753, theschoolhousecincinnati.com. Lunch Sun, dinner Fri–Sun. MCC, DS. $

SYMPHONY HOTEL & RESTAURANT

Tucked into a West 14th Street Italianate directly around the corner from Music Hall, this place feels like a private dinner club. There’s a preferred by-reservation policy. Check the web site for the weekend’s five-course menu, a slate of “new American” dishes that changes monthly. You can see the reliance on local produce in the Greek lemon chicken soup. Salads are interesting without being busy, and the lemon lavender sorbet is served as the third course palate cleanser with the five-course menu. Main courses of panseared rainbow trout, grass-fed strip steak, and a veggie burger hit all the right notes, and you can end with a sweet flourish if you choose the strawberry lavender shortcake. 210 W. 14th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-3353, symphonyhotel.com. Dinner Fri & Sat. $$

THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ

Wildflower Café is not the sort of place that tries to wow anyone with feats of inventiveness. Its formula is simple but satisfying: lots of mostly local meat and produce, a menu that continuously changes with available ingredients, a nice selection of wine and beer, and well-made, homey food. The small, focused menu has a classic American quality (salads, steaks, burgers) with enough surprises to keep things interesting. Many of the dishes are designed with open spaces to be filled with whatever is available in the kitchen that day, an advantage of an unfussy style. You don’t go to Wildflower expecting a certain kind of perfection; you accept that your favorite dish from last time might be made differently tonight, or no longer available. Like the farmhouse that Wildflower occupies, the imperfections are part of the charm.

207 E. Main St., Mason, (513) 492-7514, wildflowermason.com. Dinner Mon–Fri. MCC. $$$

YORK STREET CAFÉ

Five blocks from the Newport riverfront, Terry and Betsy Cunningham have created the sort of comfortable, welcoming environment that encourages steady customers. A dependable menu and quirky atmosphere appeal to a broad range of diners, from non-adventurous visiting relatives to non-attentive children. Desserts have always been one of the stars: flourless chocolate hazelnut torte, bittersweet, rich and moist; butter rum pudding that would be equally at home on a picnic table or a finely dressed Michelin-starred table.

738 York St., Newport, (859) 261-9675, yorkstonline. com. Lunch Tues–Fri. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

BARBECUE

BEE’S BARBEQUE

You’ll want to get to Bee’s Barbecue in Madisonville early if you want to avoid the line of friendly regulars. The restaurant’s smoker churns out a variety of meats—including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey breast, and two kinds of sausage—so it’s easy to see why they keep coming back. If you enjoy the spicy grease that oozes out of a good chorizo, you’ll love the Cincinnati Hot Link, which tastes like the delicious love child of a chorizo and a hot mett. Word to the wise: Bee’s opens at 11 a.m. and closes when they run out of meat. Understandably, this doesn’t take long.

5910 Chandler St., Madisonville, (513) 561-2337, beesbarbecue.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $

SINNERS & SAINTS TAVERN

You won’t leave this Texas smokehouse/sports bar hungry. From the brisket—served with Texas BBQ sauce, white

bread, and pickles, or on toasted sourdough—to the chicken thighs, you can’t go wrong with these richly smoked flavors. Several dishes, like the Korean style pork belly, the pulled pork naan tacos, and Bigos stew, draw on global influences, while the sides take flavors back to the country (try the creamy coleslaw, the house-made mac and cheese, and chili-spiced cornbread). The restaurant’s character shines through its decor, which includes hanging hockey memorabilia, pictures of public figures and tables made from real NBA courts.

2062 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 281-4355, sinsaintsmoke.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

WALT’S HITCHING POST

A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-fired in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quick-seared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft flesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s housemade tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together.

3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 360-2222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN

BREWRIVER CREOLE

More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’ boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on fluffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying flavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line.

4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch and lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $

SWAMPWATER GRILL

At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, catfish, and alligator Po’Boys, as well as a selection of hardwood-smoked meats.

3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067, swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU

The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning

your return trip.

6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, theknottypineonthebayou.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

CHINESE

AMERASIA

A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Pot stickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodle, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts.

521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121 , amerasia. carry-out.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. MCC. $

THE PACIFIC KITCHEN

TThe monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Wings. These slightly bubbly, shatter-crisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang chili sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors..

8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepacific.kitchen. Lunch and dinner Mon & Wed–Sun, dim sum lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SICHUAN BISTRO CHINESE GOURMET

Like many Chinese restaurants that cater to both mainstream American and Chinese palates, this strip mall gem uses two menus. The real story here is found in dishes of pungent multi-layered flavors that set your mouth ablaze with fermented peppers and fresh chilies and then just as quickly cool it down with the devilish, numbing sensation of hua jiao, Sichuan pepper. Its numbing effect is subtle at first: appetizers of cold sliced beef and tripe, as well as slices of pork belly with a profusion of minced garlic, lean toward the hot and sweet; mapo tofu freckled with tiny fermented black beans and scallions, and pork with pickled red peppers and strips of ginger root, progress from sweet to pungent to hot to salty—in that order. Alternated with cooling dishes—nibbles of rice, a verdant mound of baby bok choy stir-fried with a shovelful of garlic, refreshing spinach wilted in ginger sauce, a simply sensational tea-smoked duck—the effect is momentarily tempered.

7888 S. Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-3123, sichuanbistro.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

ECLECTIC

ABIGAIL STREET

Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. New offerings like the wood-grilled kefta, with charred tomatoes, peppers, and whipped ta-

Top 10

matters

hini, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior.The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential.

1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

CHÉ

This Walnut Street spot draws on authentic Argentine recipes, including the empanadas. Choose from more than a dozen different crispy, perfectly cinched dough pockets, with fillings ranging from traditional (a mixture of cumin-spiced beef, hard-boiled egg, and olives) to experimental (mushrooms, feta, green onion, and mozzarella). There are also six different dipping sauces to choose from, but you need not stray from the house chimichurri.

1342 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 345-8838, checincinnati.com. Lunch Tues–Sun , dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MCC, DC, AMEX. $$

DEAR RESTAURANT & BUTCHERY

The concept behind the name for Dear is that the restaurant is a kind of love letter from the team to the guests, to Hyde Park, and to Cincinnati. Occupying the old Teller’s spot on Hyde Park Square, it’s two establishments in one. One side is a full-service butchery that sells housemade sausages, wine, and coffee, and the other is a grand two-story restaurant. Animals, from pigs to cows, arrive weekly and are broken down in house, and turned into charcuterie and other cuts that make it into most of Dear’s dishes. The menu is small and focused, with dishes changing seasonally. This variability means the restaurant is serious about letting the availability of the best ingredients dictate what comes out. And if the dishes turn out to be as good as the spring carbonara, with its sugar snap pea tagliatelle, lemon, and mint, they can serve us whatever they want.

2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, dearrestaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$$

THE GOVERNOR

This Milford restaurant playfully elevates diner classics. Breakfast is available all day so if you’re looking to greet the morning with decadence, try the ricotta toast, a thick slab of brioche toast smothered in ricotta and fresh, seasonal jams. Sandwiches also get an inventive twist here. The “Governor Tso’s chicken”—a crispy fried chicken breast glazed with a General Tso’s–inspired sauce, topped with apricot slaw and served on a toasted brioche bun—is a gigantic, happy mess of a sandwich, but the sweet glaze faintly evokes the namesake “General” while letting the sublimely fried chicken lead the charge. Order a side of crinkle cut fries and ask for the housemade Maple Thousand Island dipping sauce. (You’ll thank us later.)

231 Main St., Milford, (513) 239-8298, governordiner.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days. Brunch and lunch Sun. MCC. $

THE LITTLEFIELD

Inside a modest 1,500 square-foot space on Spring Grove, just south of Hamilton Avenue, at least 70-odd bourbons behind the bar drive this little restaurant’s philosophy. The menu is meant to be limited, the better to support and celebrate the bottled flavors up front.

There are surprises: a faint hint of curry powder deepens the moody cauliflower fritters; skewered golf-balls of mild, peppery ground lamb get a faint crust from the final sear. You’ll also want to order the smoked pork katsu. Panko crusted cutlets of pork, topped with tonkatsu sauce, served with sesame ginger slaw and kewpie mayo. The signature chicken and corn chowder is exactly what you need on a cold winter’s day.

3934 Spring Grove Ave., Northside, (513) 386-7570, littlefieldns.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat & Sun. V, MC. $

MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN

At Maplewood, you order at the counter, then find a table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected.

There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chicken tinga, spaghetti pomodoro, a New York Strip steak, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with a satisfying pappardelle with house-made sausage. Brunch is available all day so try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the satisfying avocado benedict.

525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100;

5065 Deerfield Blvd., Mason, (513) 972-4747, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $$

MELT REVIVAL

In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and the J.L.R. Burger, a black bean or veggie patty served with cheese, tomato, lettuce and housemade vegan mayo. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken melt: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try one of the halvesies, a half-salad, half-soup selection popular with the lunch crowd.

4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 818-8951, meltrevival.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Fri, breakfast, lunch, and dinner Sat, brunch Sun.

MCC, DS. $

Top10 MITA’S

It’s fitting that chef Jose Salazar named this restaurant after his grandmother, because there is something deeply homey about the food at Mita’s. With a focus on Spanish and Latin-American tapas, it always feels, in the best possible way, like elevated home cooking. Its sophistication is modestly concealed. The flavors are bold and direct, whether the spicy freshness of the ceviche de camarones with passionfruit leche de tigreor the intensely bright sourness of the pozole verde. In dishes like the alcochofas y hongos, the chef hits every register: the acid of red espelette peppers to balance the earthy ramp-garlic hummus, the crunchy pistachios against the soft sautéed mushrooms and artichoke hearts. But what mainly comes through is the warm-hearted affection a grandmother might have put into a meal for a beloved grandson. It’s the kind of big hug everyone needs from time to time.

501 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-6482, mitas.co. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

PAMPAS

Much like American food, Argentine cuisine is a melting pot shaped by immigration, particularly from Italy and Germany, and with plenty of meat on the plate. You see that mix in the menu, but Pampas puts parrillada, the Argentine method of cooking over an open flame, front and center. The chimichurri appears throughout the menu, and does wonders wherever it goes. Spicy, tart, and filled with the flavor of oregano, it wakes up the marinated skirt steak. Magnificent desserts deserve special mention. The dolce de leche crème brule, with its caramelized sugar crust and shaved chocolate, is particularly popular.

2036 Madison Rd., O’Bryonville, (513) 321-0863, pampascincinnati.com. Brunch Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$

PONTIAC OTR

Dan Wright’s BBQ dream gets reincarnated as a wing joint and tiki drink emporium. The brisket still shows up on the brisket nachos, and the fried pickles and the cheesy grits didn’t go anywhere, but the smoked wings have taken center stage. Choose from one of three sauce options—BBQ, buffalo, or dry rub—pick your quantity, and chow down. If you’re feeling particularly spirited, you can try one of their original tiki cocktails. The cherry blossom, made with lightly aged Puerto Rican rum, whisks diners away with notes of coconut and lime.

1403 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 579-8500, pontiacbbq.com. Lunch Fri–Sun and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

THE QUARTER BISTRO

The Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a half-pound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with papardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy.

6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 271-5400, qbcincy.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

SACRED BEAST

Sacred Beast advertises itself as a kind of upscale diner, but the real gems are the oddball dishes that don’t quite fit the diner mold. The menu can be disorienting in its eclecticism: foie gras torchon is next to fries with lobster gravy, and a king salmon is next to a diner breakfast and deviled eggs. Winners are scattered throughout the menu in every category. On the cocktail list, the Covington Iced Tea, a lemon and coffee concoction made with cold brew, San Pellegrino, and vodka is oddly satisfying. The service is good, and there is some flair about the place—including vintage touches, from the facsimile reel-to-reel audio system to the mostly classic cocktails—even within its rather chilly industrial design. In short, go for the unique grub; stay for the elegant, shareable twists on classic snacks.

1437 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 213-2864, sacredbeastdiner.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

THE STANDARD

Owners Paul Weckman and Emily Wolff offer a pared down menu of five to seven rotating small plates, plus seven sandwiches. It’s simple but satisfying, with a small-town diner vibe. After a complete menu overhaul that shifted the restaurant away from its Pan-Asian street food concept, The Standard focuses on Americana classics, like smoked brisket chopped cheese, smash burgers, smoked wings, and chili.

434 Main St., Covington, (859) 360-0731, facebook. com/thestandardcov. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $

20 BRIX

This restaurant mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in five-ounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several.

101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix.com.

Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$

TERANGA

West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, homestyle dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and flavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and all—in a peppery citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijon-coated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater. Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Morrocan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders.

8438 Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci.com. Lunch and dinner seven days.

MCC. $

THE VIEW AT SHIRES’ GARDEN

The name of this restaurant demands that one question be answered first: So, how’s that view? Well, it’s impressive. Especially if the weather cooperates and you can get a seat outside. Most dishes are rotated out

Cincinnati Magazine is excited to offer this exclusively curated gift box, celebrating Cincinnati’s finest goodies, experiences, and products. This collection of classic Cincinnati favorites and Best of the City

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every six months, but a few remain staples from season to season. Try the pan-roasted chicken, featuring a Freebird Farms skin-on breast. Or go for the Chef’s Feast for Two, a shareable steak with an Argentine shrimp salad and two sides. The cocktail list offers high, low, and zero proof options alongside a well-rounded beer and wine selection.

309 Vine St., 10th Floor, downtown, (513) 407-7501, theviewatshiresgarden.com. Dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$$

YUCA

Yuca is in The Fairfield’s former space, retaining much of the same modern, airy, and inviting café vibes with a neighborhood feel, but boasting a menu certainly worth a commute. In the mood for a hearty breakfast? Indulge in the Fat Zach, a heaping corn gordita packed to the brim with chicken, chorizo, and scrambled egg, served with avocado, pine apple pico, and sweet and spicy potatoes. There’s a full drink menu ranging from coffee to Bloody Marys—or a selection of margaritas and palomas if you’re looking to stick around.

700 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, (859) 360-0110, yucabycedar.com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $

FRENCH

CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT

Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renée to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Warmed brie is served with thyme, almonds, fruit, and bread, and the chicken risotto is served with creamy mushrooms. This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution.

233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Friday–Sat and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

FRENCH CRUST

Located in the old Globe Furniture building at the corner of Elm and Elder Streets, this Jean-Robert de Cavel creation offers French fare in the heart of Over-the-Rhine. Swing by for lunch and have a quiche Lorraine (French Crust’s quiches are unrivaled in our humble opinion) and an avocado and shrimp salad, or opt for a more hearty entree—like bouillabaisse or cassoulet—for dinner. If you’re an early bird, a Croque Monsieur (sunny side up egg) is a great way to start the day.

1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 455-3720, frenchcrustcafe.com. Breakfast and lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC. $$

LE BAR A BOEUF

If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve been to Le Bar a Boeuf—Jean-Robert de Cavel’s fun-yet-refined French bistro located on the first floor of the Edgecliff Private Residences in East Walnut Hills—it may be time for a revisit. The formerly burger-centric menu now approaches the full repertoire of bistro classics. The menu reads like a greatest hits list of bistro fare, with escargot, beef tartare, duck leg confit, steak frites, and French onion soup all making appearances.

As France’s influence on American fine dining has waned, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant committed to not only preserving the French classics but reinvigorating them.

2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, barboeuf.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

INDIAN

AMMA’S KITCHEN

Muthu “Kumar” Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthia saw

an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item— from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliflower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea flour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes.

7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet seven days (all-vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

BRIJ MOHAN

Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no supersizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely flavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-flavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios.

11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549, brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC, AMEX. $

ITALIAN

ADRIATICO’S

Everything about this place says it’s about the pizza: the herbed sauce, the assault of the cheese, the toppings. It’s all evenly distributed, so you get a taste in every bite. Adriatico’s still delivers the tastiest pizza in Clifton. On any given night the aroma wafts through every dorm on campus. It’s that popular because it’s that good. Being inexpensive doesn’t hurt either.

113 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights, (513) 281-4344, adriaticosuc.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

BETTA’S ITALIAN OVEN

This Italian place hits the spot on all levels. It’s casual—we felt at home in jeans and a T-shirt—but not so casual to rule it out as a date-night spot. It’s friendly, with a staff that stays on top of refilling that Morretti La Rossa beer. And best of all, the food is amazing (especially for the price). We ranked their pizza the best in the city. Dubious? Their pizza Margherita will make a believer out of you. Their lasagna, spaghetti, and eggplant Parmesan will have you crying Mama Mia and other Italian-sounding phrases. Their dessert options (Cannoli! Tiramisu! Amaretto cream cake!) are all homemade, and delicious to the very last bite.

3764 Montgomery Rd., Norwood, (513) 631-6836. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $$

FORNO

Cristian Pietoso’s second restaurant has all the bones of an upscale eatery, but the menu is infused with enough Italian soul to make nonna proud. In most instances, raving about a side of creamed corn wouldn’t bode well for the rest of the menu. Here, that side dish—kernels swimming in a pool of truffle-laced heavy cream that demands sopping up—is evidence that each component is purpose-driven. The red wine–braised honeycomb tripe, which carries a warning label (“Don’t be scared!”), and the pappardelle with spiced cinghiale (wild boar) ragu are examples of the elevated, adventurous comfort food that Pietoso strives for.

3514 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 818-8720, fornoosteriabar.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

Top 10 NICOLA’S Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrates 25 years in business. Nicola’s has entered a new era of exuberant creativity

under the leadership of chef Jack Hemmer. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the candied slice of blood orange on the mascarpone cheesecake to the staff’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the perfectly nested ribbons of beets in the pickled beet salad or the balance of bitterness, funkiness, and creaminess in the endive and Gorgonzola salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.

1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$$

PRIMAVISTA

Besides offering the old world flavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The forktender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-filled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsala soaked raisins, and cream.

810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$

SUBITO

Focusing on Northern Italian cuisine, Subito carves out its own worthwhile place in the landscape. Most of the items on the menu—from pizza to various pastas—will be familiar, but there are delightful surprises, like the vegan torta di ceci. At the base of the dish is a light, flaky farinata—a griddled pancake made out of chickpea flour. Topped with pickled red onion, and covered with nectarine and toasted almonds, the whole dish is rounded out with a touch of tangy sweetness from a blackberry balsamic vinaigrette. Everything at Subito is done with intelligence and a light touch.

311 Pike St., downtown, (513) 621-4500, thelytleparkhotel.com/dining/subito. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

JAPANESE

KIKI

Kiki started as a pop-up at Northside Yacht Club, then leapt into brick-and-mortar life in College Hill. Your best bet here is to share plates, or simply order too much, starting with the shishito buono, a piled-high plate of roasted shishito peppers tossed in shaved parmesan and bagna cauda, a warm, rich blend of garlic and anchovies. Add the karaage fried chicken, with the Jordy mayo and the pepe meshi, confit chicken on spaghetti and rice that somehow works. And, yes, the ramen, too. The shio features pork belly and tea-marinated soft-boiled egg, but the kimchi subs in tofu and its namesake cabbage for the meat.

5932 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 541-0381, kikicincinnati.com. Lunch Sun and dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $

MEI

Mei’s menu is meant to represent traditional Japanese cuisine, appealing to the novice as well as the sushi maven. It is divided into sections that encourage a progressive meal of small dishes: One each for hot and cold appetizers, noodles, sushi and sashimi, special rolls, soups and salads, sushi dinners (with miso soup), and combinations (such as tempura paired with sashimi). Deep-fried soft shell crab comes with ponzu sauce—a dipping sauce made of rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and citrus juice—and the kind of yakitori that

GONE FISHING

A new sushi restaurant and cocktail bar is coming to downtown soon. Baru, an izakayainspired eatery, will open next to karaoke bar Tokyo Kitty in the 84.51° building by the end of the year.

you can find on the streets of New York. Bento boxes—lacquered wooden boxes divided into compartments—offer the neophyte a sampling of several small dishes. Mei’s are lovely: deep red and stocked with tempura, cooked salmon, sashimi, stewed vegetables, and a fabulous egg custard with shrimp and gingko nut. Mei’s sushi—nigiri, maki, and handrolls—is exceptionally good with quality cuts of fresh seafood. The staff is knowledgeable, extremely efficient, respectful, and attentive, even when it’s at peak capacity.

8608 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 891-6880, meijapaneserestaurant.com. Lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

ZUNDO RAMEN & DONBURI

A stark contrast to Styrofoam cup soup, chef Han Lin’s ramens are a deep and exciting branch of cuisine, capable of subtlety, variation, and depth. The simplicity of the dish’s name hides a world of complexity. Zundo uses the traditional Japanese building blocks of flavor—soy sauce, miso, sake, mirin—to create something freewheeling and time-tested. Bowls of ramen come with a marinated soft-boiled egg half, roast pork, green onion, and a healthy serving of noodles. Each has a distinct identity, like the milky richness of the tonkotsu, the rich and buttery miso, or the light and faintly sweet shoyu ramen. A transformative add-in is the mayu, or black garlic oil. Dripped on top of one of the subtler broths, it adds a deep, mushroom-y richness, with the hint of burned flavor that makes barbecue so good.

220 W. 12th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 9750706, zundootr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

KOREAN

MEDITERRANEAN

CAFÉ MEDITERRANEAN

Chef-driven Middle Eastern cuisine leans heavily on Turkish tradition here. The baba ghanoush uses seared eggplant, which adds a pleasant smokiness to the final product. Börek is described as a “Turkish Egg Roll,” wrapping feta and fresh and dried herbs into phyllo dough, and frying it lightly to brittle flakiness. The pastry arrives atop a vivid cherry tomato marmalade, which adds a welcome dimension of barely sweet fruitiness. While there is a smooth, simple hummus on the menu, you should go for the classic sucuklu hummus, which is spiked with sujuk, a common beef sausage popular all over the Middle East.

3520 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 871-8714, mediterranean-cafe.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

SANTORINI

Steak, eggs, and home fries. Jumbo haddock sandwich with Greek fries. Chocolate chip hot cakes with bacon. Notice something wrong with this menu? Chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich with Olympic onion rings. Yep, it’s obvious: What’s wrong with this menu is that there’s nothing wrong with this menu. Greek feta cheese omelette with a side of ham. It’s been owned by the same family for more than 30 years. Santorini has diner standards, like cheeseburgers, chili five ways, and breakfast anytime, but they also make some Greek pastries in house, like spanakopita and baklava.

3414 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, (513) 6628080. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sat, breakfast and lunch Sun. Cash. $

HABAÑERO

It’s easy to find a cheap burrito place around a college campus, but you’d be hard-pressed to find one as consistently good as Habañero, with its flavors of Latin America and the Caribbean wrapped up in enormous packages. Fried tilapia, apricotglazed chicken breast, hand-rubbed spiced flank steak, shredded pork tenderloin, or cinnamonroasted squash are just some of the ingredients for Habañero’s signature burritos. All salsas are house-made, from the smoky tomato chipotle to the sweet-sounding mango jalapeño, which is hot enough to spark spontaneous combustion.

358 Ludlow Ave., Clifton, (513) 961-6800, habanerolatin.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $

NADA

The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll find a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. The Pork Al Pastor tacos, zesty with salsa verde and sweet with grilled pineapple, are definite crowd-pleasers. If you’re biased against brussels sprouts, Nada just might convert you. Their crispy brussels, served with chipotle honey and candied ancho pepitas, are a deliciously intriguing starter.

600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232, eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

TAQUERIA MERCADO

HARU

After the closing of Sung Korean Bistro, Haru is a welcome addition to the downtown scene. Dishes are served along with the usual Korean accompaniment of pickles, kimchi, fish cakes, and other mysteriously delicious dainties. A favorite is the japchae, a traditional dish sporting silky sweet potato noodles with sesame-and-garlic sauce, matchsticks of assorted crisp vegetables, and behind it all a wonderful smokiness that pervades the whole meal. The accompanying pot of gochujang, a fermented Korean chili paste, adds its own sweet and spicy note. The result is a homey, soulful, and satisfying taste that appeals even to those who’ve never eaten a bite of Korean food before. 628 Vine St., downtown, (513) 381-0947, harucincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

Come for the jo gi mae un tang—a bowl of sizzling, happy hellbroth pungent with red pepper, garlic, and ginger, crowded with nuggets of fish, tofu, and vegetables. Come for the restorative power of sam gae tang, a chicken soup for the Seoul—a whole Cornish hen submerged in its own juices and plumped with sticky rice and ginseng, dried red dates, and pine nuts. Revered for their medicinal properties, both dinner-sized soups will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. They’re a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven.

512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

SEBASTIAN’S

When the wind is just right, you can smell the meat roasting from a mile away. Watch owner Alex Vassiliou tend to the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Alex’s wife and daughter run the counter with efficient speed, and whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanikopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic (often made by the Mrs.), they never miss a beat, turning more covers in their tiny restaurant on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend.

5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastiansgyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. Cash. $

MEXICAN

EL VALLE VERDE

Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here—ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire fish—enough to feed three.

6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400, valle-verde3.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. $

On a Saturday night, Taqueria Mercado is a lively fiesta, with seemingly half of the local Hispanic community guzzling margaritas and cervezas, or carrying out sacks of burritos and carnitas tacos—pork tenderized by a long simmer, its edges frizzled and crispy. The Mercado’s strip mall interior, splashed with a large, colorful mural, is equally energetic: the bustling semi-open kitchen; a busy counter that handles a constant stream of take-out orders; a clamorous, convivial chatter in Spanish and English. Try camarones a la plancha, 12 chubby grilled shrimp tangled with grilled onions (be sure to specify if you like your onions well done). The starchiness of the rice absorbs the caramelized onion juice, offset by the crunch of lettuce, buttery slices of avocado, and the coolhot pico de gallo. A shrimp quesadilla paired with one of their cheap and potent margaritas is worth the drive alone.

6507 Dixie Hwy., Fairfield, (513) 942-4943; 100 E. Eighth St., downtown, (513) 381-0678, tmercadocincy.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $

SEAFOOD

MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S

The daily rotation here reads like a fisherman’s wish list: fresh lobsters from the coast of Maine, ahi tuna from Hawaii, clams from New England. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Herb-broth sea bass, served with roasted fingerling potatoes, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square, and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things.

21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339, mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

OAKLEY FISH HOUSE

Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Oakley Fish House is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu tends toward fairly conservative takes on classics, like well-seasoned crab cakes and thick, creamy chowder full of seafood. The handful of

ethnic experiments on the menu are among its most vibrant offerings, including a Mediterranean fish stew that takes inspiration from the North African coast. Tender, fluff y couscous soaks up a fiery but sweet tomato sauce that showcases chiles and peppercorns, golden raisins, and lovely firm cashews, and the stew itself is packed with mussels, shrimp, and chunks of fish. 3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, oakleyfishhouse.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$

PEARLSTAR

Over-the-Rhine’s buzzworthy oyster bar marks owner Terry Raley and his Amaranth Hospitality Group’s first foray outside of Nashville. The oysters—flown in every 24 to 36 hours—are delivered on a bed of crushed ice with lemon wedges and a vinegary herbed mignonette sauce. Add a few refreshing drops of lemon and mignonette, mix in the additional fresh horseradish, house-made hot sauce, or cocktail sauce, and slurp your way to the sea. The entrées (Pearl “Stars,” as they’re called on the menu) are equal parts surf and turf, with the Arctic char and Texas redfish living up to the “star” billing. The char, with its topping of lemon caper butter, was creamy enough to eat by the spoonful while the soft, spicy redfish was flecked with a chocolaty chorizo oil that tasted like a master chef’s take on Cincinnati chili. All of this can be washed down with PearlStar’s extensive drink menu, including cleverly named cocktails

like Summer Dreamsicle and House Cup #1. 1220 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-0427, pearl-star.com. Dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

PELICAN’S REEF

When Mapi De Veyra and Kam Siu, the duo behind DOPE! and Decibel Korean Fried Chicken, took over Pelican’s Reef in late 2021, they weren’t looking to make too many changes. Varieties of fresh fish still rotate daily across the 10-by-2-foot chalkboard: mahi-mahi from the Gulf, Lake Erie walleye, wild Alaskan salmon, wreckfish from South Carolina, rainbow trout, and wild striped bass make up the majority of the featured dishes. The regular offerings are no slouch either: a Cajun grouper sandwich with chipotle tartar sauce, chubby fish tacos, perfectly fried piping hot oysters tucked into a buttered and toasted po’ boy bun with housemade slaw, and tart-sweet key lime pie. And of course, the damn good New England style chowder.

7261 Beechmont Ave., Anderson Twp., (513) 232-2526, the pelicansreef.com. Lunch Tues-Sat, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

STEAKS

LOSANTI

A bit more upscale than its sister restaurant, Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti is also more conservative in its offerings. Service is friendly and informal, and though the meal feels like a special occasion, prices and atmosphere are right for, say, a date, rather than a wedding anniversary. The filet mignon, rib eye, and New York strip are

cut to order for each table (there are a few available weights for each). The steaks themselves are totally irreproachable, perfectly seasoned, cooked to precisely the right point. Losanti even makes the steakhouse sides a little special. Sweet and smoky caramelized onions are folded into the mashed potatoes, a nice dusting of truffles wakes up the mac and cheese, and the sweet corn—yes, totally out of season, but still good—is at least freshly cut off the cob and recalls elote with lime and chile.

1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 2464213, losantiotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$$

JAG’S STEAK AND SEAFOOD

Chef Michelle Brown’s food is deeply flavored, if occasionally a bit busy, her steaks of the butterymild variety, with not too much salty char crust. All five cuts are served with veal demi-glace and fried onion straws. According to my steak-centric dining partner, his cowboy ribeye is “too tender and uniform” (as if that’s a crime). “I like to wrestle with the bone,” he adds, though that’s a scenario that, thankfully, doesn’t get played out in this subdued dining room.

5980 West Chester Rd., West Chester, (513) 860-5353, jags.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$

THE PRECINCT

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Tribeca Oven bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender

IN A PICKLE

Northside favorite Tickle Pickle has opened a second location inside of Listermann Brewing in Evanston. The move comes after Just Frites vacated the taproom back in July. ordertickle.com

asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint.

311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 321-5454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

TONY’S

He is a captivating presence, Tony Ricci. Best known for his 30 years in fine dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of filet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto.

12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 6778669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

THAI

SUKHOTHAI

Nestled in the nearly hidden Market Place Lane, this tiny restaurant isn’t exactly slick. A chalkboard lists the day’s specials, usually spicy dishes worthy of an adventurous diner. But if it’s noodle dishes and curries you’re after, Sukhothai’s pad kee mao—wide rice noodles stir-fried with basil—is the best around. Served slightly charred, the fresh and dried chilies provide enough heat to momen-

tarily suspend your breath. Pad Thai has the right amount of crunch from peanuts, slivers of green onion, and mung sprouts to contrast with the slippery glass noodles, and a few squeezes of fresh lime juice give it a splendid tartness. The crispy tamarind duck is one of the best house specials, the meat almost spreadably soft under the papery skin and perfectly complemented by the sweet-tart bite of tamarind. 8102 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 794-0057, sukhothaicincin.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sat. DS, MC, V. $

THAI NAMTIP

Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at first bite, then the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill.

5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 481-3360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $

WILD GINGER

Wild Ginger Asian Bistro’s ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evidenced by their signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cab-

bage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-andchili brown sauce.

3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

VIETNAMESE

PHO LANG THANG

Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most flavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk that should make canned energy drinks obsolete.

1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), November 2022, Volume 56, Number 2. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 1818 Race St., Ste. 301, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2022 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

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gifting connoisseur help.

DOROTHY

So Long, Silos

IF YOU’VE EVER TAKEN A RIDE ON THE TRAIL BETWEEN BEEKMAN AVENUE AND MILL Creek, you’ve probably noticed the skeleton of a silo complex among the industrial parks and railyards. Built by Early & Daniel in 1925 to house grain, the silos were a fixture of the Mill Creek skyline until 1986, when the company went bankrupt. They had three owners in less than 20 years, and when another project fell through in 2002, the silos were sold to a demolition company and slated for demise. But soon, another problem cropped up—asbestos. It’s not uncommon in structures like these, says Oliver Kroner, Cincinnati’s sustainability manager. But it also made the demolition too expensive. So, the silos have sat, partially demolished. Help from the state might be on the horizon—the city applied for demolition funds in January—but in the meantime, the si los have taken on a new (and slightly less legal) life as a destination for urban explorers brave enough to scale the decaying 300-foot towers. For obvious reasons, we can’t endorse that kind of behavior, but if you do venture out, do us a favor: Don’t look down.

—LAUREN FISHER

CINCY