Cincinnati Magazine - November 2024 Edition

HOW TO LOVE

WINTER

IS RED BIKE A GO OR NO-GO?

BY DAVID HOLTHAUS

DRUG RESEARCH CHANGES MINDS

BY CEDRIC ROSE

COURT STREET KITCHEN CALLS YOU BACK by M.

Leigh Hood

Skin n Types 101 with h Dr. Alexandra a Bowles

Just as we all have different personalities, the way that our skin behaves can vary from person to person. While everyone’s skin is unique, there are a few skin type categories that most people fall into. Knowing your skin type can be incredibly helpful when deciding what products to use and how best to care for your skin. Dr. Alexandra Bowles, board-certified dermatologist at Mona Dermatology, shares how to identify your skin type and most importantly, how to best take care of it.

1. How would you describe the appearance of your skin at the end of the day?

a. Dry or flaky

b. Shiny or oily

c. Shiny in some areas (such as T-zone), but matte/flaky in other areas

d. Red or irritated

2. How do your pores look?

a. Small and spaced out

b. Large and densely packed

c. Small in some areas but larger in others (such as the nose or T zone)

d. Moderate to large in size and reactive to various triggers such as products, foods, heat

3. If you cleanse your skin but don’t apply products afterwards, how does your skin feel after a few minutes?

a. Tight or dry

b. Greasy or oily

c. Tight in some areas, but greasy in others

d. Hot, stinging, burning, or red

Add up your answers, see which letter you answered most frequently, and match it up with a skin type below! This quiz may not accurately diagnose your skin type, so it’s best to schedule a visit with your dermatologist to be sure. Mostly A: Dry Skin, Mostly B: Oily Skin, Mostly C: Combination Skin, Mostly D: Sensitive Skin

Skincare Tips by Skin Type

The key to great skin starts with the basics! Everyone should use a broadspectrum sunscreen in their daily skincare routine to protect against UV damage, which can cause both skin cancer and premature aging. If you’re looking for increased anti-aging benefits, incorporating products such as growth factors, antioxidants, or retinoids into your routine can be a great choice. Your cleanser and moisturizer is where your skin type can make a big difference. Dr. Bowles shares her favorites below, along with other tips to best care for your unique skin type.

Dry Skin

Hydrate from within! Making sure we maintain healthy moisture levels in our skin is a must, especially for those with dry skin. First and foremost, be sure to drink plenty of water! I also love incorporating a hyaluronic acid product into your skincare routine, as it is a humectant, meaning it retains moisture. To seal the skin and promote a healthy skin barrier, I recommend using a cream moisturizer as opposed to a lighter lotion. Lastly, be sure not to over-exfoliate or overuse retinoids as these can dry out your skin if not used carefully.

Dr. Bowles’ Product Picks: SkinMedica

HA5 Hydra Collagen and SkinMedica Dermal Repair Cream

Oily Skin

If you have oily skin, you may be able to tolerate a gel or foaming cleanser to clean your skin and I recommend using an exfoliating cleanser 1-2 times per week at most. Incorporating a retinol can also help to control oil production. Lastly, be sure to use a moisturizer both in the morning and at night! I commonly see patients with oily skin not moisturizing appropriately; however, this can have the opposite effect and actually cause your skin to produce more oil. For oily skin, keeping your skin balanced and moisturized is key.

Dr. Bowles’ Product Picks: SkinMedica AHA/BHA Cleanser and SkinMedica Ultra Sheer Moisturizer

Combination Skin

Combination skin can be tricky because you have both dry and oily skin! I recommend that my patients cleanse their skin daily with a gentle cleanser intended for combination skin. Some patients will also benefit from applying retinol in oily areas such as the T- zone while applying hyaluronic acid to the dry areas such as the cheeks. Finishing your skincare routine with an overall light moisturizer is a must to lock in that moisture.

Dr. Bowles’ Product Picks: La RochePosay Effaclar Gel Cleanser and Avène Tolérance Control Cream

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is a skin type that varies heavily from one person to another. I find it incredibly important for those with sensitive skin to keep the skin barrier healthy and happy with overall gentle products, gentle cleansers, and cream moisturizers. In addition, it is important to minimize skincare that can be irritating such as exfoliants, retinols, and cosmetics. It is important to work with your dermatologist to find the products that are right for you and pinpoint what makes your skin sensitive.

Dr. Bowles’ Product Picks: Avène Xeracalm Cleansing Oil and SkinMedica Replenish Hydrating Cream

Overall, each skin type can be treated in a variety of ways and should be addressed personally. The best way to ensure you’re properly caring for your unique skin type is to schedule an appointment with a dermatologist! We know that every patient’s skin has different needs and the best skincare is individualized. At Mona Dermatology, our providers combine both medical and cosmetic dermatology to give you the most comprehensive product and treatment options for your skin. You can schedule a visit with one of our providers online at monadermatology.com or by calling 513.984.4800.

FALL IN LOVE WITH WINTER ALL OVER AGAIN

’Tis the season for enjoying Perfect North, skating on Fountain Square, eating in igloos, drinking a hot toddy, bundling up, chilling out, and going for long walks. Snow optional.

DOES RED MEAN GO OR STOP? P. 50

City Hall, the Metro bus system, and area nonprofits are trying to make Red Bike more self-sustainable. They have six months to figure it out.

BY DAVID HOLTHAUS

CHANGING MINDS P. 54

Area researchers are helping investigate the promise and the perils of psychedelic drugs as public interest grows.

BY CEDRIC ROSE

/ CONTRIBUTORS

14 / LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

FRONTLINES

17 / DISPATCH Cincinnati as a film destination

18 / SPEAK EASY

Briana MazzoliniBlanchard revamps the UNC

18 / POP LIFE

Taylor Swift takes over Indianapolis

20 / STYLE COUNSEL

Cameron Lee’s absurdity in outfits

22 / INTERSECTION

On the streets of Dayton’s Oregon District

24 / REAL ESTATE

Historic character in a North Avondale home

26 / DR. KNOW

Your QC questions answered

COLUMNS

28 / WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD

Our genetics may work for or against us BY JUDI KETTELER

88 / CINCY OBSCURA

Time for tea at BonBonerie BY

CLAIRE LEFTON

DINE

70 / MAIN REVIEW

Court Street Kitchen’s New Americana, downtown

72 / LUNCHBOX

Malaysian flavor at Sago, Mt. Lookout

72 / TABLESIDE WITH…

Sonya and Damion Lynch, the power duo behind Chefbobbombs

74 / BAR BITES

Salazar’s new Safi Wine Bar, Over-the-Rhine

77 / DINING GUIDE

Greater Cincinnati restaurants: A selective list

ON THE COVER

Artwork by HITANDRUN CREATIVE STUDIO

An extra serving of our outstanding dining coverage.

Decoding our civic DNA, from history to politics to personalities.

Tracking what’s new in local real estate, artisans, and storefronts.

Insight and analysis on the Bengals and Bearcats

ON OUR SITE

FOOD

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WWE’VE HAD NINE DECENT SNOWFALLS OVER THE PAST EIGHT WINTERS IN CINCIN-

nati. I know because I’m the contact for our street’s snow removal service; we live on what’s officially a private lane, so the city doesn’t plow it. A landscaping company clears our street once 2 inches of snow accumulate. I went back and counted how often I’ve paid them since 2016.

To me, winter without lots of snow is pretty dreary—especially in January and February. Too many slush puddles and gray skies. And I worry about the snow removal industry. Will those folks join the long list of obsolete jobs like telephone operators and one-hour photo developers? My grandpa used to drive a snowplow here in Cincinnati!Ha ha, can you believe people actually did that for a living?

OK, an eight-year stretch with meager amounts of snow isn’t the end of the world. It’s not like Cincinnati is starting to resemble Arizona or anything. It just means we have to be more resourceful in finding ways to get our cold weather kicks—which we’ve done in this month’s “Fall in Love With Winter All Over Again” (page 34).

The perfect (pun intended) example of our collective resourcefulness can be found on a large hill outside of Lawrenceburg, where the Perfect family battles the elements to host skiing and snow tubing 30 minutes from downtown Cincinnati. I almost said they “tilt against windmills in a quixotic chase,” but the reality is Perfect North is actually a functioning ski resort most of the winter. Learn how it makes its own snow on page 46.

We also highlight events, stage shows, food and drink options, outdoor adventures, and tailgating gear you can enjoy only in the winter. And we have a guide to igloo dining and bust some frostbite myths.

I know plenty of you hate snow because of the chaos it inflicts on our daily routines. My take: That’s actually a feature, not a bug. And some will say I’m tempting Mother Nature to unleash one of the worst winter weather seasons in history. Jinx! Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.

JOHN FOX EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

CONTRIBUTORS

DAVID HOLTHAUS

Following the end of UC Health’s decade-long sponsorship of Red Bike and its subsequent four-month shutdown, freelance writer David Holthaus wanted to know more. In “Does Red Mean Go or Stop?” (page 50) Holthaus explores the operation and maintenance of the bike share system. “I believe that Red Bike can be a practical form of transit with some changes in design,” he says.

JACLYN YOUHANA GARVER

Although based out of Ft. Wayne, Indiana, Jaclyn Youhana Garver (an author, poet, and journalist) talks to fashionistas for CM’s Style Counsel (page 20). “Interviewing someone about their style tells you they have a creative eye. There’s thoughtfulness to it,” she says. When outfitting herself, Garver likes to appear as “someone who knows what she’s talking about, but is also a fun person.” Her debut novel, Then, Again (Lake Union), is out this month.

VERONIKA TIMOKHINA

Self-taught artist Veronika Timokhina specializes in vibrant risographstyle images that reflect different aspects of her life. Born in Ukraine and raised in Russia, Timokhina now lives and works in Cincinnati, and her newly minted Queen City status shines through in her art for “Bundle Up” (page 40). “I see people dressed in Bengals gear every season, so creating this sketch from scratch didn’t take much time,” she says, adding that her favorite way to stay warm is with hot tea in hand and dog Archie at her feet.

WHEN YOU CAN’T TRUST YOUR GUT

You find the experts with answers—world-renowned leaders like the clinician/ researchers of the UC College of Medicine Inflammatory Bowel Disease Program. Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) is on the rise. Which is why the science—and the scientists—matter. Our investigator-initiated clinical trials are at the forefront of new treatment, offering unique medication and the most advanced combination therapies available. It’s the future of IBD care. indispensable medicine,

Left to right: Susan Kais, MD; Kara De Felice, MD; Anita Afzali,MD; John Shinn, CNP; and Emily Scott, PA-C; Department of Internal Medicine, Division of Digestive Diseases

INSPIRED BY THE

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Scan the QR code and make your reservation today!

UNC REVAMP P. 18 ABSURD STYLE P. 20 DAYTON’S OREGON DISTRICT P. 22

ON THE BIG SCREEN

In recent years, local cinephiles have put Cincinnati on the map as a thriving film destination.

SARAH McCOSHAM

OCAL FILMMAKERS, PRODUCers, and enthusiasts are doing their part to shine a spotlight on the moviemaking talent that exists in Cincinnati. (We covered the Queen City’s place in the film firmament in February 2023.) Allyson West, executive director and founder of Cindependent Film Festival, has dedicated her career to doing so. Founded in 2017, Cindependent is the city’s only multi-genre, multitype film festival. Each September, the festival aims to “cultivate the entrepreneurial spirit of filmmaking,” and, West adds, “showcase Cincinnati as a film destination.”

And what are we showcasing, when even national film festivals, such as Sundance, take notice? (In July, the well-known and largest independent film festival in the nation put Cincinnati on its shortlist of potential cities to relocate to in 2027.) That’s where Jonny Shenk, Cindependent’s curation lead, comes in. Shenk directs Cindependent’s adjudication team, which sorts through hundreds of submissions to narrow down a lineup. This year, the festival featured 111 films and screenplays.

As a multi-hyphenated film festival, West CONTINUED ON P. 18

says that Cindependent truly is about people—all people. “Our filmmakers are incredible and diverse,” she says, adding that “as an industryled film festival, we have the unique opportunity to serve our artists alongside our audience; we love the special space where moviemakers and movie lovers discuss the work as movie people.”

This sentiment is illustrated by myriad groups that collaborate with Cindependent, including numerous film festivals and other organizations. Representation is the “why” so many get into fi lm, says local filmmaker Vernard Fields, part of the Black Cinema Cincinnati Collective (B3C). Founded in 2017 out of “a need to find other people of color who are Cincinnati filmmakers,” Fields says its audiences have an interest in consuming entertainment produced by people of color or telling the story of the Black experience. “If given the opportunity, people who are disenfranchised or marginalized can experience filmmaking that they would otherwise not have due to life obstacles.”

the only opportunity to see these independent films,” Wolff says. “Many big budget movies don’t feature LGBTQ+ stories, so festivals like ours offer folks the chance to see themselves on the big screen.”

URBAN NATIVE OVERHAUL

Getting involved isn’t as intimidating as it may appear, says Jamie Meyers Schlenck, president of Women in Film Cincinnati. “There is a place for everyone, whether you are a professional or someone who just loves movies.” She adds that Women in Film is an excellent resource to learning key aspects of the industry. “Leveraging the connections of our directors and partners, we bring in high-level professionals to lead discussions and workshops.”

Grab Your Popcorn OutReels takes place November 8–10 at the Warsaw Federal

This quest for inclusion is shared by David Wolff, cofounder of OutReels Cincinnati, who in 2012 partnered with local creative Chuck Beatty to begin the area’s first LGBTQ+ film festival. According to Wolff, OutReels is dedicated to supporting the creative and critical discussion of LGBTQ+ issues via film, simultaneously providing a safe and stimulating space for expression. “The beauty of film festivals is that, many times, they’re

This renaissance was destined to be, according to Michael Gott, professor and director of programming for the Niehoff Center of Film & Media Studies at the University of Cincinnati. Gott explains that there has “always been a small hard core of traditional cinephiles who would patronize places like The Esquire,” but the emergence of local film festivals and increased fi lm production in town has solidifi ed Cincinnati’s place in the industry.

This stake in the film community is a foothold worth protecting and celebrating, Schlenck says. “Imagine the pride in saying you worked on a De Niro film shot in town, or a friend you were in class with just won an Academy Award for production design on Black Panther. How cool is that?”

TAYLOR SWIFT INVADES INDIANAPOLIS

Pop sensation Taylor Swift brings the Eras Tour, headlined by Gracie Abrams, to Indianapolis for a weekend at the Lucas Oil Stadium November 1–3. taylorswift.com/tour-us

Briana MazzoliniBlanchard, a member of the CHamoru (the Indigenous people of Guam), is executive director of the Urban Native Collective, the region’s only nonprofit to strengthen and promote the communities of First Nations, Indigenous Native American people. Taking the reins last year, she has infused the organization with new blood, opened up its revamped Northside HQ to the public, and expanded its ambitions.

How many Indigenous people live in Greater Cincinnati? About 98,000. That includes American Indian and Alaskan Natives, Central and South Americans, and Island Natives.

Were you always proud of being CHamoru?

I went to a Catholic middle school in Cleveland with white kids who made fun of the way I looked. I had a lot of deeply rooted insecurity for who I was. My culture was something I didn’t talk about. It took a while for me to feel completely confident in who I am, to think “I am not alone.”

How does the UNC serve such a large community with a small staff ? The three pillars

of our work are education, advocacy, and support. For something like health and wellness, we work with the Urban Indian Health Institute in Washington [state], which helps us address wellness in a traditional way. In our urban gardens/food sovereignty program, we grow traditional foods and medicines in urban garden spaces. We invite the community to be part of that process to carry on that knowledge from generation to generation.

What’s the main education project? Our podcast, Life on the Margins: An Urban Native Experience. It’s a perfect example of our focus being regional but our reach being national. It’s where we can talk about everything from Turtle Island [an Indigenous name for this continent] to Leonard Peltier [the imprisoned Native American activist] to a punk rock band that features pow-wow drumming. The downtown library and Playhouse in the Park help us record the podcasts and provide the space for a live audience.

—LAURIE PIKE

READ A LONGER INTERVIEW WITH BRIANA AT CINCINNATIMAGAZINE. COM

SPEAK EASY

Incline Theater.

ROAD TRIP

Photography by Jenny Walters

Cameron Lee

OCCUPATION: Creative director/co-CEO at Ora Krespuko Desegni; imaging studio manager at ArtWorks

STYLE: Universally absurd

Where did you come up with the name for your photography agency? “Ora Krespuko Desegni” means “Golden Twilight Design.” It’s Esperanto, a beautiful language. It takes from all major languages and puts them together as a way of being able to communicate more universally. A lot of my photography revolves around the golden hour of the day. How does your photography influence your fashion? They go hand-in-hand as far as composition and aesthetic. I’m always looking for the aesthetic of the moment. Whether it’s capturing people raw in their emotion or shooting something more editorial, it evokes an emotion and I think I approach my fashion the same way. How do you showcase emotion through fashion? By allowing whatever I am feeling when I wake up to guide me in the right direction. If I’m feeling a little bit more get-to-it mode, I tend to lean toward dressing more punk or experimental. On those days where I don’t feel like doing a whole lot, I tend to go with a more streetwear or vintage style. How do you describe your style? I like to dress more for conceptual absurdity. I’m into pieces that are unusual, unique, sometimes one of a kind. I love wearing pieces in a different way than you should: a shirt as a bottom or bottoms as something else. What’s something you’ve worn in a way that wasn’t its intended use? I love mixing womenswear and menswear. My silhouette allows for me to wear different things. I’ve been playing a lot with layering skirts with pants, layering skirts with other lengths of skirts. Same thing with dress tops, [like] a button-up underneath a T-shirt with a tie.

—JACLYN YOUHANA GARVER

STYLE COUNSEL

OUT ON OREGON

THE OREGON DISTRICT IN DAYTON, OHIO, OFFERS TOP-TIER BREWERIES, BARS, AND BOUTIQUES. —GARIN PIRNIA

1. PRESS COFFEE BAR

Since 2011, Press has been a mainstay on Wayne Avenue. Owners Brett and Janell Barker meticulously source and roast their own Wood Burl Coffee beans, which also sell online and at Elliott Coffee in Dayton, Kentucky. The cold brew and chai lattes are some of the best in the region, and a few years ago Press expanded to selling natural wines,

aperitifs, digestifs, spritz drinks, and snacks such as Tony and Pete’s pimento cheese.

257 Wayne Ave., (937) 286-4585, pressdayton.com

2. HEART MERCANTILE

If you’re looking for goods to represent the Gem City and the Buckeye State, you’ve come to the right place. Heart Mercantile sells apparel emblazoned with tag lines like “Dayton Til I Die” and “Dayton As Fuck” (Dayton doesn’t mess around when it comes to city-wide pride). It also vends drinkware, stickers, notebooks, and mugs so you can have a cool, Daytonfied lifestyle. 601 E. Fifth St., (937) 2506020, heartmercantile. com

3. TOXIC BREW CO.

In 2013, Toxic became Dayton’s first craft brewery, and it’s still going strong over a decade later. Shane

Juhl’s vision set an example, and soon after breweries Warped Wing, Fifth Street Brewpub, and Branch and Bone joined the ranks. Toxic offers daily drink specials and a rotating tap list, of both its own brews and guest taps. Try the Black Tonic, a stout brewed with neighbor Press’s cold brew, and amber ale Gem City Rubi Girls, named after the Rubi Girls of Dayton, who have raised $1 million for HIV/AIDS and LGBTQ+ related causes. 431 E. Fifth St., (937) 985-3618, toxicbrewcompany.com

4. LILY’S DAYTON

Four years ago, Emily Mendenhall reimagined her restaurant, Lily’s Bistro, as a tiki- and tropical-inspired eatery, now known as Lily’s Dayton. The menu combines elements of American Southern and Polynesian cooking, offering fare such as bao bun sliders, rumaki, free-range fried chicken, and a weekend brunch. The cocktails will transport the imbiber to island life. Sit at one of the three patios during happy hour and drink and eat your cares away. 329 E. Fifth St., (937) 723-7637, lilysdayton.com

5.

Dayton has a thriving music scene, thanks

to legends like the Breeders, Guided by Voices, Brainiac, Real Lulu, Motel Beds, and funk pioneers like the Ohio Players, Roger Troutman, and Zapp. For more than 30 years, Omega has supported those acts alongside a wide selection of new and old album releases, including an extensive vinyl collection. Those who still prefer physical media can pick up a CD, cassette, record, or book. And catch a live show at nearby Blind Bob’s or Yellow Cab Tavern. 318 E. Fifth St., (937) 275-9949, omegamusicdayton. com

On Friday through Sunday evenings, the district closes Fifth Street from Patterson Boulevard to Wayne Avenue for “Out on 5th.” Every weekend, restaurants and bars can expand their patio seating into the streets, retail shops can use extra sidewalk space to sell in front of their business, and guests can enjoy an open-air shopping and dining experience. theoregondistrict. org/outon5th

From noon to midnight all week, the Oregon District transforms into a designated outdoor refreshment area (DORA), so all patrons can peruse the streets with a delicious cocktail or other beverage in hand—so long as it’s purchased from a participating vendor. Find out which bars and restaurants take part by looking for the official DORA sticker at the entrance.

OMEGA MUSIC

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS

THIS SKILLFULLY RESTORED HOME FEATURES ELEGANT HISTORIC TOUCHES LIKE TIGER OAK WOODWORK AND AUTHENTIC ITALIAN MARBLE. —PIEPER BUCKLEY

BBUILT IN 1915, THIS NORTH AVONDALE HOME BLENDS TIMELESS CHARM with subtle (but necessary) modern pleasures. The property has a whopping seven bedrooms, five bathrooms, and a detached two-car garage. Within the last 20 years, major renovations have refreshed much of the structure while preserving the original beauty of the woodwork and design.

The exterior was all professionally tuckpointed, a process that refurbishes the mortar between bricks, creating a cleaner look and improving structural integrity. The update is especially noticeable on the bright mortar of the wraparound porch.

Countless unique details appear throughout the inside, such as the wooden fish carved into the staircase and the opulent handcrafted chandelier that once glimmered in a Chicago train station circa 1910. Also of note is the red and gold hand-painted wallpaper throughout—a recreation of wall coverings at Mark Twain’s Connecticut home.

The centerpiece of the estate is its grand staircase, made entirely of tiger oak, created with a specialized sawing technique that makes a distinctive pattern resembling tiger stripes. The process creates lumber that’s less prone to warping over time— which explains why the staircase is in pristine condition more than 100 years later.

Though this home is a well-preserved piece of architectural history, renovations over the years infuse it with luxuries. The vibrant blue kitchen is fully equipped with a state-of-the-art fridge, stacked ovens, and a TV mounted above the microwave. Modern touches continue in the owner’s suite, where the bathroom features white Italian marble, a fireplace, a freestanding soaking tub, and a Bluetooth light therapy shower enclosure, which promotes mental and physical well-being. The third-floor bathroom also doubles as a sauna room—a 21st century amenity that found a comfortable place in a home from a century earlier.

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I recently moved back to Cincinnati after some years in the suburbs. Does the city still send surprise letters to homeowners about repairing sidewalks? It cost me a lot last time. My neighbors aren’t sure if the city still “condemns” sidewalk squares and sends homeowners the bill. Do they?

—WALK ON THE SIDE SIDE

DEAR SIDE:

Time was, Cincinnati employed professional crack dealers. They swooped down city streets and marked any sidewalk square that had cracked, tilted upward, or crumbled into gravel. They then mailed notices to homeowners, and if you didn’t hire someone to fix the squares

Dr. Know is Jay Gilbert, radio personality and advertising prankster. Submit your questions about the city’s peculiarities at drknow@cincinnati magazine.com

by the deadline, the city did it and added the marked-up bill to your property tax. The joys of owning a home.

Today, professional snitches no longer terrorize neighborhoods. Only a complaint or emergency results in the Concrete Letter of Doom. The bad news: You’re still responsible for the sidewalk squares fronting your property. Many licensed concrete contractors are available, or you can do it yourself if the job is small enough and you follow specific rules (check cincinnati-oh.gov). Or you can re-live seventh grade and put it off until it’s too late, whereupon the repairs will be city-done and city-billed at city prices. None of this is pleasant, but it’s an improvement over the days when every homeowner feared a random fix-it-or-else notice. Welcome back to Cincinnati. Tread lightly.

I like to walk in Columbia-Tusculum. The properties along Columbia Parkway near Stanley Avenue are all well-kept, except for one: a house that sits across from the corner at Strafer Street. It has broken windows, no front steps, and is a wreck. Why such an exception in a nice neighborhood?

—THAT OLD HOUSE

DEAR OLD:

The Doctor has previously addressed a run-down structure along an otherwise-upscale street (issue of July 2021). Our readers can be somewhat snooty, it seems. In your case, you look down upon a property that spent decades being, well, looked down upon. It faces the bottom of extremely steep Strafer Steet, and over the years it’s suffered numerous unprovoked assaults from cars and trucks with defective parking brakes. Very, very bad feng shui.

The first recorded attack was in 1943 by a driverless five-ton truck. A mere standard automobile plowed into the hapless structure in 1945, probably causing less damage. First prize, however, goes to the runaway car that decapitated a fire hydrant and hit two moving cars before smashing into a parked

vehicle in 1954. Honorable Mention: the resident who smelled gas in the home’s kitchen, looked under the stove with a lit match, and caused an explosion. In the time since you submitted your question, the property has been razed. Sadly, cars and trucks will now need considerably more momentum before hitting anything.

In Paycor Stadium, the Bengals end zone has the famous orange logo. But in the corners behind the end zone, the Bengals logo is red. Some might call it a “deeper orange,” but no, dammit, it’s red. Why the difference? Why don’t they just use the orange that’s on everything else? —HUE DEY

DEAR HUE:

Ah, the colors of autumn! They delight with their vibrance and infinite variety! It’s during this magical time when a young man’s fancy—or woman’s, or someone middle-aged or older—turns to football and not to nitpicking over comparing colors in a bazillion-dollar stadium when our favorite football team is struggling mightily to finally reach the top.

The Doctor, ever the professional, has resolved to treat your inquiry with the same respect he gives every question, regardless of its trivial esoteric nature. He dutifully contacted the operations department at Paycor Stadium, patiently climbing every branch of its phone tree in his quest to find a person who might care know about this issue.

Someone did go into excruciating detail about how RGB color palettes on grass differ from those on plastic or vinyl or wood, so there’s that. The closest we got to actual engagement was a request to send our inquiry by e-mail and await a response. Nothing yet. It’s almost as if the Bengals organization has its hands full with issues that deserve more attention and passion. We’ll get back to you.

CREATED BY

THE EMMY -WINNING WRITER FROM

SCHITT’S

CREEK

POP

MUSIC’S #1 HITMAKER

APRIL 8 - 20, 2025

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WELCOME TO MIDDLEHOOD

BY JUDI KETTELER

these low counts.

“But I feel fine,” I say. “I ran five miles this morning.” “Your counts aren’t normal,” she says. “They haven’t been normal forever though!” “That’s why you should see someone.”

It’s not an exaggeration to say that I hrmph . I scoff. I sigh. I don’t want to see someone. The $100 co-pay. The time involved. The waste of resources. But it’s hard to be petulant in a hospital gown with a broken tie. Plus, what if she’s right and there is something truly wrong?

Later that week at my brother Tony’s birthday dinner at Rio Grande in Newport, I demand to know about everyone’s blood. It’s not the best conversation to have when you’re dipping chips in red, gloopy salsa.

“One of you must have low something in your blood,” I say to my four siblings who are there.

“Oh, try Claire! I think she said something about a blood thing a while ago,” says my sister Laura.

I text my out-of-town sister the next day. Through a long thread of texts, she tells me that 15 or so years ago her doctor also made her see a hematologist for a lowish white blood cell count and her sometimeslow platelets, even though she felt fine and was running ultramarathons at the time.

She wound up having a bone marrow biopsy. It all came back normal. She tells me that after all of that—a bone marrow biopsy was not fun—the doctor said she was probably just an anomaly. Who doesn’t love to hear that from their doctor? Oops, you’re actually great, but here’s the bill!

We agree that it could be genetic. The low-platelet-sisters! The ones who do not have cancer, but instead just this silly quirk!

WILL YOUR BODY BE A FRIEND OR TURN AGAINST YOU?

II Blood Sample

SOMETIMES THAT’S OUT OF YOUR HANDS.

I KEEP ASKING MY COUSINS ABOUT THEIR BLOOD. I’VE ALREADY EXHAUSTED MY SIBLINGS. Who has low platelets in this family? Speak up now! I need to see if there’s a genetic trail. My blood has been coming back with low platelets for at least 20 years. The normal range is something like 150,000 to 300,000 and mine have long hovered around 100,000. In my most recent bloodwork, my white blood cell count came back a bit low, too. (A little bit, to be clear.) My B-12 count was also at the low end of acceptable.

My doctor is a cautious type, which I appreciate since I’ve now reached 50, The Age of Most Risk Factors. At my annual physical this year, she tells me she wants me to start taking B-12 supplements to prevent a certain kind of anemia. I already take C and D, so I have no problem adding onto the alphabet.

There’s another thing, though. She says she wants me to see a hematologist about all

To trace which side of the family the condition might originate from, I start texting cousins. First I ask a cousin on my dad’s side. Nada. On my mom’s side, I’ve long been bothering my cousin, Steve—a pediatrician in Houston—with my medical questions. What’s one more? Tell me about everyone’s blood!

He responds that when his brother, Joe, was a baby, like 60 years ago, he had a red blood cell condition and had to have his spleen removed. But he was fine after that. My cousin Joe is a literal Texas rancher (at least on the weekends) and is living his best life, stepping over snakes and tending

~ Tom Young “

Three years ago, I was aware of Fentanyl. It wasn’t important to me. Now I am grieving my

grandson.”

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FOLLOW + LEARN

to cattle. Yay for spleen removal that cures things! But not helpful to me.

Then I remember I am the keeper of my mother’s MyChart. I scan her bloodwork. Jackpot! She also has lowish platelets! Does it matter that she’s 89? A quick Google search tells me that platelets do

check “yes” on only two. Allergies? I mean, hello, pollen. Anxiety? I have teenagers.

Then I wait for the appointment, every day hoping that my blood isn’t going to betray me. That I merely have a genetic quirk of no real consequence, like my cloverleaf tongue and my smelly asparagus pee.

parent is the carrier of a defective gene and doesn’t know it. It’s all such strange and unfair math. Even healthy babies who have healthy childhoods can grow up to find a familial disease lurking, waiting for them. Oh, the places you’ll go!

decline with age, though hers still hover at the lower end, even for her age. And she is the healthiest 89-year-old I know.

Still, I make the appointment with the hematologist because that’s the responsible thing to do. I fill out the pre-appointment paperwork, checking “no” over and over again to the long list of symptoms. I

GENETICS ARE A GIFT AND A CURSE.

I recently worked on a whole section of a children’s hospital website, writing pages of content about rare genetic diseases. I learned about errors in genes that get passed down, where enzymes don’t work as they should. Some are treatable. Others are absolutely devastating, often because a

Case in point: My paternal grandfather died in 1942 at the age of 40. Though he was fit and seemed otherwise healthy, he had crazy high blood pressure. My dad inherited whatever gene caused that. But there was medicine for high blood pressure by the time his readings started edging up. He stayed healthy and fit until he developed dementia in his 70s, dying in 2013. Was that genetic, too? Or was it because he worked in a lab with chemicals for years?

If only we could read our blood like we read maps. Come to think of it, maybe that’s what all those blood tests are. The CBC, the CMP, and the lipid panels all show the highways and byways in the form of disease markers, irregularities, and deficiencies, pointing at the suggested routes you should

take. High triglycerides? Take the express lane to Statin-ville. Low cholesterol? Go ahead and enjoy the scenic route. A1C not favorable? Cancel the vacation to Candyland.

Our blood numbers plot us along sweeping epidemiological curves, but our blood stories give us hints, too. For example, there is a fair amount of alcoholism dating back through the generations of my family, and I had a brother who died 15 years ago from issues related to alcoholism and substance use. So when I found myself drinking a glass of wine every night some years back just to wind down, it hit me one day that it wasn’t the best choice.

It was remarkably easy to just stop, so I’m lucky. Maybe that means it was never in my blood. Either way, I’d rather get off the toll road.

RIGHT AWAY, I LIKE MY HEMATOLOGIST.

And a little part of me feels grown up, laying claim to having a hematologist. Starting a sentence with “My hematologist says…”

commands something. Confusion, most likely, because the general public mostly doesn’t know who that is.

Anyway, he’s a cool guy. Very relaxed. He asks what brings me in. “Do you have time for a family story?” I respond. I tell him all the things about not being able to give blood most of my adult life and my sister’s ordeal with the unnecessary biopsy and, Look, here is a picture of my mother’s MyChart test results page. Twinsies!

He listens and nods a lot. He asks about symptoms. I have none. He asks if my kids have had bloodwork, and I remember that my 14-year-old daughter had blood drawn last year. I am the MyChart Madame! I pull up hers and, bam, she’s my low platelet girl. She even has my low neutrophils. I couldn’t be prouder.

“You, your mother, your daughter, and your sister, you live down here,” he says, gesturing with his hand. “But that is normal for you.” If I really wanted definitive answers, I could spend lots of money and

get more testing to know exactly what’s happening with my genes. “But I wouldn’t do that,” he says, smiling.

He does want me to keep taking B-12, which is fine by me. There’s so much more I want to ask him. He’s a blood expert, after all. Tell me how it all works, I want to say.Explain how blood ties us to our ancestors and is so unfair for so many. But I don’t, because I’m sure my co-pay doesn’t cover a philosophical discussion.

As I leave, I’m acutely aware of being the easy patient. The one who gets the good news and is able to walk worry-free down the spiral steps of the big cancer center and into the sunlit atrium.

I wonder how many people got bad news here today. Who has just learned they carry the BRCA genes? Whose low blood counts aren’t just a thing of curiosity but a signal that they’ll spend the next few years fighting? I feel grateful and sad and like I want to give my blood a hug, every single stingy platelet of it.

INSPIRE. SUPPORT. ACT.

FALL IN LOVE WITH WINTER

ALL OVER AGAIN

’Tis the season for enjoying Perfect North, skating on Fountain Square, eating in igloos, drinking a hot toddy, bundling up, chilling out, and going for long walks. Snow optional.

WINTER SKATE

CINCY ON ICE

Fountain Square’s temporary winter wonderland returns this month.

—JOHN FOX

The skating rink and humongous Christmas tree on Fountain Square might feel like a multi-generational holiday tradition for many of us, but the downtown favorites aren’t even 20 years old. The seasonal rink followed 3CDC’s renovation of the square and its underground parking garage in 2006, adding activity downtown during winter months.

Andi Schultes, 3CDC’s director of event logistics, is starting her 12th season in charge of the rink and knows more about making ice than almost anyone in town. An intricate web of plastic tubes under the ice circulates 11,000 gallons of glycol to maintain an ideal frozen surface. Schultes says she can hold decent ice up to an air temperature of 70 degrees, but a bigger challenge might be frigid temps; when it’s under 18–20 degrees, she actually has the glycol warm up the ice so it doesn’t crack.

Schultes’s crew maintains and resurfaces the ice every day, but she recommends skate aficionados visit as early in the day as possible. “Our best ice is the first two hours, no matter what time we open,” she says.

108

Days the Fountain Square rink will operate between November 2 and February 17. Open every day, weather permitting. Check for specific hours: myfountainsquare.com/ice-rink

7,500

Total square footage of the rink (Rockefeller Center’s rink is 7,200)

40,000

Total skaters in the 2023—2024 season

1,800

Skaters each day on the Thursday and Friday between Christmas and New Year’s Day, always the season’s busiest days

450

Pairs of skates available for rent

<5

Percentage of skaters who bring their own skates

40

Full-time and seasonal 3CDC staff working at the rink, the warming tents, and the bar each season

$10

Rink admission, which includes skate rental

WINTER SHOWS

OF SONG THE SEASON

Sing and dance along to a wide range of holiday shows. —EMMA BALCOM

TOTALLY TRADITIONAL

Bach’s Christmas Oratorio

The Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra performs Bach’s Christmas Oratorio, a series of Baroque music infused with holiday flair featuring the May Festival Chorus conducted by Richard Egarr. December 6 & 7, Music Hall, Over-the-Rhine, cincinnatisymphony.org

The Nutcracker

The traditional holiday season ballet returns to Music Hall with elegant choreography, grand costume designs, and Tchaikovsky’s score performed by the Cincinnati Symphony Orchestra. December 19–29, Music Hall, Over-the-Rhine, cballet.org

Santa Claus: The Musical

When Santa and Mrs. Claus decide to retire from the Christmas biz, they train website designer and single dad Nick to take the reins as their replacement in this Children’s Theatre production. December 7 & 8 and 13–15, Taft Theatre, downtown, thechildrenstheatre.com

Home Alone

Cincinnati Pops helps kick off the post-Thanksgiving holiday stretch run with a live score and screening of holiday favorite Home Alone Where’s Kevin?! November 30–December 1, Music Hall, Over-theRhine, cincinnatisymphony.org

Every Christmas Story Ever Told

Cincinnati Shakespeare presents its annual “bad Santa” mashup of everyone’s holiday favorites, including A Christmas Carol, It’s a Wonderful Life, Rudolph, Charlie Brown, and more. December 13–29, Cincinnati Shakespeare, Over-the-Rhine, cincyshakes.com

Boar’s Head & Yule Log Festival

The Christ Church Cathedral’s annual Christmas festival is in its 85th year, featuring a 12-part celebratory program as a traditional winding down of the holidays. December 30 & 31, Christ Church Cathedral, downtown, mycathedral.org/boars-head

A Christmas Carol

The classic Christmas story by Charles Dickens comes to life again at the Playhouse’s Rouse Theater, spinning a tale of redemption for holiday grump Ebenezer Scrooge. November 22–December 29, Playhouse in the Park, Mt. Adams, cincyplay.com

Dr. Seuss’ How the Grinch Stole Christmas! The Musical

The beloved Christmas cartoon comes to life in this touring Broadway musical following the Grinch’s attempt to steal holiday cheer from Whoville. December 10–15, Aronoff Center for the Arts, downtown, cincinnati.broadway.com

Alice in Wonderland

Lewis Carroll’s fantasy tale of the wandering and wondering Alice returns this year with whimsical new revisions—an updated score and exuberant costumes. December 4–30, Ensemble Theatre, Over-the-Rhine, ensemblecincin nati.org

David Choate’s Hot Chocolate

Cincinnati’s professional Revolution Dance company presents its take on The Nutcracker for the fourth year, featuring a soul-stirring story, original music, and choreography by David Choate. December 13–21, Aronoff Center for the Arts, downtown, revodance.com

Die Hard Is a Christmas Movie

This shot-for-shot remake of the original Die Hard, told through the lens of a crumbling suburban family, ends the debate over whether it’s a holiday movie. Or not. December 6–22 (ASL interpreter December 20), Know Theatre, Over-the-Rhine, knowtheatre.com

EDGY ESCAPISM

HOLIDAY LIGHTS

BRIGHTEN UP A WINTER NIGHT

Gathering to see amazing light displays is a holiday tradition for many. You’ll find two of the best in new locations this year. — ELIZABETH MILLER WOOD

Holiday in Lights ›

What’s even better than cute, illuminated woodland creatures nestled within a scenic park? Seeing them all from the toasty warmth of your car. Formerly located at Sharon Woods, this year’s new location is at Armco Park. Wed–Sun, November 18–December 13, all days December 14–30, Lebanon, holidayinlights.com

PNC Festival of Lights at the Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Gardens ›

This beloved holiday destination has been the reigning king of light displays for four decades. Four million LED lights, visits with Santa and Mrs. Claus, holiday snack stations, and even a brave animal or two make this an annual must-see. November 21–January 5, Avondale, cincinnatizoo.org

Cincinnati’s Nights of Lights ›

Formerly located at Coney Island, this radio-synced drive-thru display finds its new home at the Clermont County Fairgrounds. Look for familiar favorites like the rainbow tunnel, singing elves, and snowflakes galore. November 23–January 5, Owensville, discoverclermont. com

Light in the Forest at Cincinnati Nature Center › Take a hike with this one-mile illuminated forest trail past ponds, woodlands, and prairies adorned in festive decor. Live music, food trucks, and children’s activities make it a family-friendly soiree. December 5–29, Milford, cincy nature.org

The Legendary Lights of Historic Clifton Mill › Sprinkle some historic charm into your holiday rotation with the yesteryear delights of Historic Clifton Mill. Don’t miss the 100-foot twinkling “waterfall,” the miniature village, the Santa museum, and the synchronized light-andmusic show at the Old Covered Bridge. November 29–December 25, Clifton, Ohio (near Yellow Springs), cliftonmill.com

Cincinnati Zoo & Botanical Gardens

Cincinnati Nature Center

WINTER WEAR

BUNDLE UP

Keep things loose and comfortable. You’ll need to be able to move around to warm up.

$32.99 AT KOCH SPORTING GOODS

Protect your head and neck with a hat, scarf, or gaiter.

$19.99 AT DUBOIS BOOK STORE

Put on a pair of warm mittens over your gloves.

$149.99 AT KOCH SPORTING GOODS

Myth › The temperature has to be way below zero to get frostbite.

Truth › According to Harvard Health, you can get frostbite in temperatures as high as 28 degrees depending on time spent outside and the wind chill.

You’ll want at least three layers of clothes. The first should be moisture-wicking, the second for insulating, and the outer for wind and moisture protection.

$39.99 AT BENGALS.COM

FROSTBITE AND YOU

Myth › You’ll be able to tell you’ve been frostbitten because the affected area will burn in pain.

Truth › Frostbite actually numbs the body, so the telltale sign will be a lack of feeling in the affected area.

Myth › Get the frostbitten area as hot as possible to quickly reverse damage.

Truth › The area should be warmed up slowly. Since the skin will be numb, it can more easily burn and get more damaged.

FOOD & DRINK

Hot Toddy › Traditionally made with honey, lemon, and whiskey, toddies are the No. 1 drink when you’re feeling under the weather, but they’re even more delicious when you aren’t. Plenty of menus around town feature this handme-down remedy, but our fave is at Old Kentucky Bourbon Bar, where you can choose from more than 250 types of bourbon for your drink. Grandma can’t beat that. 629 Main St., Covington, (859) 581-1777, oldkybourbonbar. com

WARM WINTER

NOSHES

These dishes and drinks will take the chill off during the colder months.

—AIESHA

D. LITTLE

Goulash › This traditional Hungarian stew is stuffed with meat, vegetables, and spices, but unlike other Eastern European stews it’s often thin enough to be served as a soup. The version at Laszlo’s Iron Skillet comes with beef or pork and is served over spätzle (Hungarian egg noodles). 1020 Ohio Pike, Withamsville, (513) 561-6776, laszlosironskillet.com

Brisket Chili › With Skyline and Gold Star looming large in our minds (and stomachs), it’s hard to find a good, hearty chili in the tri-state. But Smoke Justis comes through in the clutch. Topped with shredded cheese, onion, and sour cream, a fourth of a pound of its smoked brisket is covered in a blanket of traditional (a.k.a. not so sweet) chili. 302 Court St., Covington, (859) 814-8858, smokejustis.com

Matzah Ball Soup › Lovingly referred to as “Jewish penicillin,” this mixture of crushed unleavened bread (matzah meal) and eggs is rolled into balls, then plopped into chicken noodle soup and brought to a rolling boil. You can get it daily at The Pickled Pig (645 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, 513-748-7114, smoked andpickled.com), and you’ll find it on the menu at Izzy’s (multiple locations, izzys. com) on Fridays.

Glühwein › A long-standing tradition at German Christmas markets, this red wine is mulled with citrus and warming spices like cinnamon, so it’ll warm you up right down to your toes. Snag a cup during the Germania Society’s Christkindlmarkt (November 1–3, ger maniasociety.com/christkindlmarkt) or Cincinnati Christkindlmarkt at Moerlein Lager House (November 22–January 5, cincinnatichristkindlmarkt.com).

Noodle Soup › We know chicken noodle soup is the go-to dish for feeding a cold, but why not spice things up a bit? Specializing in hand-pulled noodles, Fortune Noodle House will give you your noodle soup in beef stew, seafood, beef tripe, or sliced beef with a sprinkle of green onions and cilantro in a rich, smooth broth. 349 Calhoun St., Clifton Heights, (513) 281-1800, fortunenoodleuc.com

OUR GREAT

WHITE SLOPE

For many local families, it wouldn’t be winter without a trip to Perfect North. Here’s how the team makes sure guests have all the white stuff they need. —AMANDA BOYD WALTERS

“WE LIVE AND DIE BY THE 10-DAY WEATHER FORECAST,” SAYS ALEX PERfect, marketing operations director for Perfect North Slopes. Yes, that’s his real last name, and, yes, Perfect North is his family business—his grandfather and grandmother, Clyde and Ella Mae Perfect, turned 200 acres of stock farm outside of Lawrenceburg into this region’s premiere winter wonderland. That is, once there’s enough snow.

Running a ski area in the lower Midwest, where winters are warming and the terrain is less than mountainous, can be a challenge. But Perfect North has figured out a way to make sure tubers, snowboarders, and skiers have access to the white stuff.

A network of underground pipes cover the hill “like a spiderweb,” says Perfect, carrying water (pumped from the property’s lake) and pressurized air to the snow guns, barrel-shaped fans with a spray nozzle at one end. The nozzle splits the water into droplets and the fan sucks in fresh air, with the pressurized air launching droplets high into the air so they can freeze on the way down. A crew of 10, who check conditions throughout the hill every hour, can manually adjust how much water and air go through and move them side to side or up and down.

Ahead of Perfect North’s 45th season, improvements to the entire system are underway. “We think we’ll see a 30 percent increase in snow-making capability,” Perfect says. “We’ll be pushing more air and more water up the hill to more guns.” All that new capacity won’t help, though, if conditions aren’t right.

If you remember your basic science, it has to be below 32 degrees to make snow. “As it gets colder and colder, we can make more snow. At 15 to 18 degrees, we can make a ton of snow. As far as natural snow, we’ll take what we can get.”

OUTDOORS

GET OUT IN THE WINTER AIR

These

fun activities

might have you choosing a new favorite season.

—CARRIE BLACKMORE

Look Up › Cold air holds less moisture than summer air, making clear winter nights clearer, so bundle up, step outside, and search for Orion, Taurus, and the other winter constellations at the Cincinnati Observatory on one of its weekly Astronomy Evenings. cincinnatiob servatory.org

Classic › Some nearby state parks (including Stonelick, East Fork, and Cowan Lake) have trails that allow cross country skiing in the winter. When conditions are right, Stonelick also offers ice skating and ice fishing. ohiodnr.gov

Brrrr › It can get pretty quiet around Great American Ball Park in the winter, but not when the Polar Plunge for Special Olympics is held at The Banks on February 1. Raise at least $100 for the Kentucky and Ohio Special Olympics chapter and take the plunge for fun and a good cause. soky.org/greatercincinnatiplunge

Tap In › One of our region’s sweetest winter treats comes from the woods—specifically maple trees. Area park districts and small sugaring businesses tap them, collect sap, and boil it down to produce syrup. Check out the Maple Sugar Days at Farbach-Werner Nature Preserve. greatparks.org

Birds of a Feather › Citizen scientists across the Western Hemisphere flock together under the guidance of the National Audubon Society to conduct an early-winter bird census from December 14 to January 5. Find a Christmas Bird Count circle near you: audubon.org

Turkey Legs › No surprise, but this year’s Thanksgiving Day Race is (again) on Thanksgiving Day. Don’t let a lack of training stop you from entering the 10K or 5K—lots of people walk it. This race is chill (winter pun intended); strollers are allowed, but no pets. thanksgivingday race.com

Magic Kingdom › Kings Island transforms into a winter wonderland at WinterFest Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays November 29 through December 31. The Eiffel Tower becomes a 314-foot Christmas tree, plus you’ll find ice skating, holiday shopping, seasonal treats, and a few rides (weather permitting). visitkingsisland.com

Lace Up ›

Whether it’s a walk in your own neighborhood on a snowy night or a winter hike on one of many local trails, you can listen for native birds, look for wildlife tracks, and watch winter thaw and the first spring flowers pop up, like snow trillium and bloodroot.

WINTER WARMTH

INSIDE/OUT

One of the more ingenious ideas to come out of the pandemic, restaurant and bar igloos allow diners to enjoy an evening out for drinks and a chef-prepared meal with the solitude (minus interaction with a server) of an evening in.

AC Upper Deck

Located on the north side of the rooftop bar, the igloos offer cozy spaces to enjoy cocktails and small bites with friends. 135 Joe Nuxhall Way, downtown, acupper deck.com

Braxton Brewing

Igloobar igloos seat up to eight on the brewery’s rooftop, a delightful locale to enjoy local brews and food from Dewey’s Pizza. 27 W. Seventh St., Covington, braxtonbrewing.com

Catch-a-Fire Pizza

Both the Blue Ash and Lebanon locations have igloos for diners to enjoy wood fired pizza and fun. 9290 Kenwood Rd., Blue Ash; 511 N. Broadway St., Lebanon; catchafirepizza.com

The Shires Rooftop

You’ll find some of the best views Cincinnati offers here, so reserve an igloo and enjoy seasonal cocktails and elevated cuisine while you take it all in. 309 Vine St., downtown, shiresrooftop.com

Velocity Esports

The Chill Room at Newport on the Levee, operated by Velocity Esports, serves up food and festive cocktails in a holidaythemed space. Newport on the Levee, Newport, velocityesports.com/locationsnewport

Sunday Afternoon Picnics

Enjoy a custom picnic in the locale of your choosing with bubble tent rental from this Cincinnati concierge service. sundayafternoonpicnics.com

Igloos let you drink and dine out inside while you’re outside.

—RODNEY WILSON

IGLOO TIPS

Call ahead, as igloos are often reserved weeks (or months, for special days) ahead. Also plan on paying a rental or reservation fee. A mandatory gratuity and a minimum meal purchase are common.

Dress warm. Some places might offer a blanket, but between the server entering and the nature of these indoor/outdoor spaces, things can still be a bit chilly even when they’re heated.

Stay flexible. We heard from one person who experienced a heater outage and no option to change igloos, so they had to reschedule.

Be respectful of time limits. When your reservation ends, the staff still needs to clean things up between guests. So if you’re looking for a long, lingering evening, you might want to add an after-dinner drink stop to your itinerary.

WARM UP OR CHILL OUT WITH THESE FUN FESTIVITIES

There are plenty of indoor and outdoor happenings around the region.

—BRIANNA CONNOCK

Christkindlmarkt

A yearly winter staple for all ages, this German-American Christmas festival on the riverfront has everything from food and drinks to shopping and live music. November 22–January 5, Moerlein Lager House, downtown, cincinnatichristkindlmarkt.com

Ice Skate at Summit Park

Bundle up and indulge in a winter classic, ice skating at Blue Ash’s seasonal rink. November 16–January 5, 4335 Glendale Milford Rd., Blue Ash, summitparkblueash.com

Perfect North Slopes

Cincinnati

SantaCon

Don your best Santa or elf apparel and hit the streets with hundreds of others for an annual bar crawl through The Banks, Over-theRhine, Mt. Adams, and Covington.

SantaCon benefits The Cure Starts Now. December 14, various locations, cincinnatisantacon. com

Only a short drive out of the city, Perfect North Slopes offers skiing and snowboarding to all ages and abilities. If you’re a pro, buy a season pass and perfect your skills. Beginner? Take a ski or snowboard lesson. Check website for opening dates, Lawrenceburg, perfectnorth.com

Holiday Junction at

Cincinnati Museum Center

Winter wonderland returns to historic Union Terminal with the Duke Energy Holiday Trains, a Northern Lights display, a holiday scavenger hunt, and a visit from Santa. This ticketed event can be added on to any museum experience. November 9–January 6, 1301 Western Ave., Queensgate, cincymuseum.com

Art on Vine Holiday Markets

The monthly art and handmade good market Art on Vine hosts multiple holiday editions with more than 80 vendors selling unique goods from across Ohio, so you’ll be sure to find someone the one-of-a-kind gift they deserve. November 17 & 24 and December 8 & 15, Rhinegeist Brewery, Over-the-Rhine, artonvinecincy.com

Holidays at the Taft

The Taft Museum of Art has loads of holiday programming this season. Enjoy an afternoon tea in the room where Charles and Anna Taft hosted their annual tea reception on New Year’s Day, or enjoy Free Holiday Family Fun Days with music, crafts, and gallery activations on Sundays in December. November 13–January 5, 316 Pike St., downtown, taftmuseum.org

Bi-Okoto Kwanzaa Celebration

The Bi-Okoto Cultural Center brings back its annual citywide Kwanzaa celebration on December 27 starting at noon. The day will celebrate African culture through dance classes and music, food, fashion, and education. 5601 Montgomery Rd., Pleasant Ridge, bi-okoto.com

Scuba Santa’s Water Wonderland

Everyone knows Santa flies through the sky with his reindeer, but locals know he also scuba dives at the Newport Aquarium with sharks. Don’t forget to stop to see the penguins. November 29–December 24, Newport on the Levee, newportaquarium.com

Cincinnati Cyclones

Add action to your winter days by seeing a Cincinnati Cyclones hockey game and taking advantage of some of special offerings like $2 beer nights, kids eat free on January 20, NYE postgame fireworks, and the Teddy Bear Toss! October 26–April 5, Heritage Bank Arena, downtown, cycloneshockey.com

Annual Chanukah Bazaar

Get all your Chanukah essentials and support Cincinnati’s artist community at Adath Israel Congregation. Find candles, menorahs and decorations in addition to more than 35 vendors selling handmade goods. December 8, 3201 E. Galbraith Rd., Amberley Village, adath-israel.org

BY DAVID HOLTHAUS

DOES RED MEAN GO OR STOP?

City Hall, the Metro bus system, and area nonprofits are trying to make Red Bike more self-sustainable. They have six months to figure it out.

On a late summer Sunday afternoon, Jennifer Jacobson and her husband drive downtown from their home in Newtown, park at Montgomery Inn on Riverside Drive, stroll over to the Red Bike station, and select an electric-assist bike for Jennifer, while her husband unloads his personal e-bike from the car. They set off to cruise along the riverfront and The Banks and across the Roebling Suspension Bridge, testing how the bike feels with her new knee, which had been implanted just a few weeks earlier.

“I’m trying it out just to get my range of motion and get comfortable on an e-bike,” Jacobson tells me. “We’re riding around because the weather is so nice.”

Later that afternoon, Ron Williams emerges from his apartment in northern Over-the-Rhine, uses the Red Bike app to choose an e-bike from the docking station near

Findlay Market, and sets off to visit a friend, opting to bike instead of walk. “Anything I need to do, I’ll just jump on one of these and go,” he says.

Jacobson and Williams represent the primary users of Cincinnati’s bike-sharing system: people who use it once or twice purely for recreation and those who use it frequently to get where they need to go. As Red Bike’s management, supporters, and sponsors ponder the program’s future in the wake of a financial crisis and a fourmonth shutdown, they’ll look for ways to increase ridership among both types of users and find new ways to weave bike sharing into Cincinnati’s larger transit picture.

Started with fanfare 10 years ago, Red Bike, like bikesharing systems around the U.S., is facing a reckoning. What began as a visible sign of a city striving to be more bike-friendly, less car-centric, and more attractive to young professionals now struggles with growing pains sparked by the loss of its major sponsor, along with ques-

145,000

10

4

$250,000

Amount of UC Health’s annual sponsorship that ended in 2023

tions about its larger role in the region’s transportation network. Is Red Bike a fun way to spend a couple of hours tooling around OTR or downtown with friends, or is it a key piece of an urban transit system? Both? Neither? Those are the questions its leadership and supporters are pondering after the pause in service and a financial reprieve funded partly by City Hall.

“Riding bikes is joyful, right?” says Doug McClintock, Red Bike’s executive director. “It’s all about fun and the excitement of the wind in your hair. We all get that feeling. But can we use this as a lever to help people make their lives easier and move the way they want to through their community and between communities?”

McClintock has been with the program from the beginning. He was the second employee hired in August 2014 after Jason Barron, who launched the service the following month and served as its director until 2022, when he was named director of Cincinnati Parks. McClintock was laboring in the automobile industry in Alabama when he heard of the opportunity in Cincinnati, a place he was familiar with, and was hired. “I took a bus, brought a couple bags, showed up at a station installation, and started picking up tools and

doing stuff,” he says.

APRIL 2025

When emergency funding runs out

He became Red Bike’s operations manager, a key maintenance and troubleshooting role that he held for eight years, until he was promoted to the lead role in August 2022. Barely a year into his tenure, McClintock was faced with the most serious existential crisis in the program’s 10-year history: UC Health ended its sponsorship, which had sustained the bike program from the beginning. Losing the annual $250,000 sponsorship meant that the program dropped a quarter of its budget overnight. That was like the city of Cincinnati taking a $300 million hit to its annual budget or Procter & Gamble losing Walmart and Kroger as customers.

When asked why UC Health ended its 10-year sponsorship, spokesperson Heather Chura-Smith replied with a statement that said, in part, “We remain committed to continuing our support of community organizations. UC Health was proud to support Red Bike throughout our entire multi-year contract that ended last year.” She did not comment directly on a report that UC Health experienced large operating losses between July 2021 and the end of 2023.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 60

RIDE THE LIGHTNING RED BIKE OPENED WITH 30 DOCKING STATIONS IN SEPTEMBER 2014, WHEN JASON BARRON AND MAYOR JOHN CRANLEY DEBUTED THE SERVICE (LEFT); TODAY IT HAS 70 STATIONS (MAP).“RIDING BIKES IS JOYFUL,” SAYS RED BIKE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR DOUG McCLINTOCK (PRECEDING PAGES).

CHANGING

Area researchers are helping investigate the promise and the perils of psychedelic drugs as public interest grows.

By Cedric Rose

Illustration by Philip Lindeman

In his ultra-clean lab gleaming with glass and steel equipment, Miami University researcher Andrew Jones cooks up psychedelic drugs on an industrial scale. When I reach him via Zoom, he sits in front of a whiteboard scrawled with arcane chemical formulae.

His lab looks like Walter White’s, when it began to resemble a craft brewery in later seasons of Breaking Bad. And, in a way, Jones is brewing. He has four two-liter bioreactors in which he ferments e. coli bacteria genetically modified to produce psilocybin, the magic ingredient in magic mushrooms; dimethyltryptamine; and other tryptamines. Those substances are valuable to researchers investigating the pharmaceutical potential of mind-altering drugs.

Interest in psychedelic drugs has reached a fever pitch in recent years. Celebrities, athletes, business leaders, and billionaires have touted the substances’ ability to boost creativity and blow the cobwebs from aging brains. They show remarkable promise for treating posttraumatic stress disorder (PTSD), depression, addiction, chronic pain, and other debilitating conditions. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has granted “breakthrough therapy” status to accelerate research into Ecstasy and psilocybin. In 2020, Oregon became the first state to legalize psilocybin for therapeutic use.

This summer, Lykos Therapeutics looked to be on-track to gain approval for MDMA (Ecstasy) to treat PTSD-afflicted military veterans, a cohort in which suicide is epidemic. Suddenly conservative politicians and right-leaning billionaires—not the people you would expect to advocate for psychedelics—were voicing support and lobbying the FDA.

In August, however, the government rejected Lykos’s application, citing ethical concerns over incidents and omissions. Two trial participants who committed suicide following MDMA treatment were left out of the Lykos application, as was a trial participant’s description of inappropriate physical contact from researchers.

Following the FDA’s rejection, the journal Psychopharmacology retracted three papers by Lykos researchers. The company constitutes a “therapy cult” say a number of observers, including Johns Hopkins University senior lecturer Nese Devenot, who emerged as a voice of concern over psychedelic research while doing post-doctoral work at the University of Cincinnati.

The FDA decision angered psychedelic therapy advocates, including veterans groups and investors hoping to cash in on a potential new market. Some worry that the move will derail widespread access to drugs that can prevent pain and suicides.

But psychedelic compounds continue to be investigated worldwide, including in Oxford, Ohio. The curious-minded are already traveling to Oregon to take legal psilocybin. And public acceptance of formerly forbidden mind-altering substances is slowly but surely changing.

DEBATING THE MERITS

Miami University researcher

Andrew Jones (right) is studying lab-made psilocybin, the “magic” ingredient in psychedelic mushrooms (above).

Recalling certain ad hoc psychedelic experiments from my college years, I ask Jones how much psilocybin his Miami University bioreactors are capable of cooking up, compared to a baggie of ’shrooms. Jones does some quick calculations. “Each bioreactor can produce about a four-gram batch of psilocybin,” he says, “which is equivalent to about 160 25-milligram doses or about 800 grams of mushrooms.”

The technology is scalable, and twoliter vessels can easily be super-sized. That’s attracted drug company attention and funding for Jones, including $2.5 million from one small company. But betting on the legalization of these drugs is risky. Miami is back to looking for new prospective licensees interested in commercializing the technology, he says.

“We leverage the kind of chemistries that can happen in a mustard plant, bacteria, fungi, humans, animals, plants,” says Jones. Or those that endow the Sonoran Desert Toad with its psychedelic secretions. “We have the ability to mix and match biology to enable these processes in ways that biology can never do by itself.”

Sometimes Jones’s team identifies the operative string of DNA in online databases, he says, “then we copy and paste that DNA and send it to our favorite DNA synthesis company.” They get back a minus-

cule quantity of that genetic material and clone it into a plasmid, “a circular piece of DNA that can be replicated inside bacteria and express the desired enzyme. We feed the bacteria substrates, and that bacteria will convert them into whatever compound we want.”

Why lab-synthesize compounds that grow in nature? Laboratory production provides a high degree of control over the product, says Jones, making it more consistent and stable. Psilocybin mushrooms are extremely sensitive to their environment, for instance. And synthetics save you from having to catch a bunch of toads.

Jones’s team is also working on creating derivatives of the compounds that aren’t hallucinogenic, which is useful since not every user is looking to get high. In an experimental setting, hallucination-inducing drugs make controlled studies extremely difficult, if not impossible.

“The reality is that studies with psychedelics are hard,” Jones says. “The core basis of a clinical trial is that you give a drug and you give a placebo but both groups think they’re getting drugs.” The idea is to keep patients’ mindsets from influencing the outcome. “But you can tell that there’s a hallucinogenic or psychedelic side effect of MDMA, psilocybin, you name it, so it’s easy to tell which group you’re in as a patient,

and that biases the trial results.”

While Lykos’s rejected application for MDMA is a setback for researchers like Jones, he sees the decision in a positive light. “The FDA is approving drugs based on scientific evidence, which is how it’s supposed to work,” he says. “We want to make sure that people know what they’re getting, right? When you use a prescription drug, there’s an understanding that there are going to be known side effects and you’re not going to have unknown negative outcomes.”

The current fracas over MDMA/Ecstasy is only the tip of the psychedelic iceberg. While it’s grabbed headlines for helping veterans with PTSD, the drugs’ potential reaches far beyond mental health.

Jones is collaborating with researchers at the University of Cincinnati on animal trials to explore psilocybin’s ability to promote nerve regrowth, because “psychedelics have this neuroplastic effect that causes an increase in neuron connections,” he says. And the drug is anti-inflammatory, which could be widely applicable given that inflammation is an underlying cause of a number of human diseases.

Jones believes that MDMA, which is more toxic than psilocybin, might not be the best candidate for psychedelic therapies. “I think there’s a lot of evidence that says that psilocybin and

September 11, 2024

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DOES RED MEAN GO OR STOP?

In December 2023, McClintock announced that Red Bike service would suspend its operations for a few months, catch its breath, and make “significant staff reductions,” but keep the bikes and stations maintained and plan to resume service in the spring.“This is not where Red Bike imagined operations would be as the system enters the 10th year of service,” he said when announcing the suspension.

Bike service resumed in May thanks to temporary sponsorships from a group of stakeholders that included the city of Cincinnati, Greater Cincinnati Foundation,

nomics of nonprofit bike sharing programs.

Red Bike’s steep increase in ridership was almost entirely due to its “Go” program, a membership for people who receive food assistance through SNAP benefits, receive energy assistance, or are covered by Medicaid. For those eligible, a monthly pass is $5 for unlimited rides. The program was launched in 2019 but really got rolling in 2023 with new stations in Evanston and Walnut Hills and with a grant-funded awareness and marketing campaign. “It was a massive increase and we’re really, really proud of that, because the bulk of that ridership came from folks who struggle with transportation equity,” says McClintock.

Many Go passholders use Red Bike for daily transit. “A large number of folks are in our equity program because they may not have a car,” he says. “They may not have access to other forms of transit. And we’re a very affordable option.”

Ron Williams is one of those users. His Medicaid benefits make him eligible for the

“A LARGE NUMBER OF FOLKS ARE IN OUR EQUITY PROGRAM BECAUSE THEY MAY NOT HAVE A CAR,” SAYS DOUG McCLINTOCK. “WE’RE A VERY AFFORDABLE TRANSIT OPTION.”

Haile Foundation, Interact for Health, Metro/SORTA, and Duke Energy. They provided enough money to keep the system operating until April 2025 and enough time to figure out what Red Bike wants to be and should be and how to sustain it in the future. The organization hired a consultant with funding from Interact for Health to examine the program’s design and compare it to other not-for-profit programs around the country.

“That essentially gave us some breathing room,” says Cincinnati City Councilmember Mark Jeffreys, a committed bicyclist and Red Bike’s biggest champion at City Hall.

RED BIKE SHUT DOWN JUST AS THE PROgram was coming off of its biggest year ever in terms of ridership. The service provided more than 145,000 rides in 2023, 43 percent more than it did the year before and 38 percent more than its next biggest year, 2019. It’s a perfect illustration of the difficult eco-

pass, and he uses it often.“I ride them everywhere,” he says at the Findlay Market station. “I ride up to Walnut Hills and sometimes Avondale.”He’s even used the bikes to deliver for DoorDash, ranging as far as Ft. Thomas on the electric-assisted two-wheeler.

The program has been popular, and on a recent morning three people were waiting outside McClintock’s downtown office to buy Go passes when he opened for the day. But $5 monthly passes, while a benefit to those in need of transportation, don’t really pay the bills. For that matter, neither do the full-fare riders, who now pay $12 for two hours.

Only about a third of the system’s revenue comes from its fares. Most of the rest comes from sponsorships. That’s essentially the same experience for most nonprofit bike share programs around the U.S.

“Many systems are reaching recordbreaking ridership at the same time they’re facing sustainable funding struggles,” says

Laura Mallonee, membership and engagement director with the North American Bikeshare and Scootershare Association (NABSA). Or, as McClintock says,“Nobody’s solving it on the farebox alone.”

Red Bike had its first significant price increase in six years at the beginning of 2024. Two-hour passes went to $12, monthly passes to $30, and annual passes to $150. The Go pass stayed at $5 a month.

“Bike share is, by its nature, a fragile thing to fund,” says McClintock. “We want to see people ride bikes and improve their lives, but that has to be balanced with the funding that allows us to operate. We have to increase full-fare revenue, because those people help fund the entire operation. It’s a very difficult balancing act.”

Outside funding—through sponsorships, subsidies, or grants—is a common practice in bike share programs. Mallonee argues for public funding of the service as an essential element of city transportation. “While user fees, sponsorship revenue, and advertising can support some costs, they aren’t enough,” she says. “More support is needed to expand shared micromobility and its benefits.”

The city of Cincinnati pitched in $197,000 to help fund Red Bike through next year, and Jeffreys says some public funding makes sense as the system figures out how to become sustainable for the long term. Details remain up in the air, but could mean helping to fund equipment and infrastructure rather than daily operations. “There is a role for the city of Cincinnati,” he says. “What that is, I think, needs to take shape. It might be more on the capital side.”

Capital expenses are significant, as Red Bike maintains hundreds of bikes and 70 docking stations exposed to the elements year-round. The system has expanded from 30 stations, but its biggest transformation came in the form of e-bikes. About 70 percent of its bikes and about 90 percent of its rides are now powered in part by a batterypowered motor attached to the rear wheel, which makes riding much easier, faster, and more enjoyable.

The upgrade, however, came with its own issues, namely the maintenance required to keep the e-bikes in working condition. They’ve driven up operating costs, as the batteries need to be swapped out every two or three days and the depleted batteries re-

MATCHED

BIG SISTER KELLY, MT. AUBURN LITTLE SISTER KAREN, WEST END

BIG SISTER KIM, MAINEVILLE LITTLE SISTER DAVIA, SOUTH LEBANON

BIG SISTER DANITA, KENWOOD LITTLE SISTER LA’VEYAH, WOODLAWN

turned to headquarters to be charged, then cycled back out to the field again.“It’s a massive man-hour lift,” says McClintock.

But e-bikes are the future, and Red Bike’s entire fleet could go battery-powered at some point, he says, adding that he already has a grant in hand to fund electric replacements for the remaining classic two-wheelers.

RED BIKE’S GROWING PAINS AREN’T unique. Similar programs in other U.S. cities have faced fi nancial problems and questions about their purpose and future. In June, Houston shut down its bike share program after 12 years, and the city, which owns the bikes, began selling them in an online auction. The shutdown came after the program had suspended operations two years earlier in order to save money, regroup, and plan for its future.

Over 10 years, Houston’s program had grown from three to 153 stations, with growth largely in low-income neighborhoods.“Unfortunately, revenue has not kept

pace with the cost of operational support to maintain a larger bike share network,” a program spokesperson said at the time.

Minneapolis, a pioneer in bike-sharing, ended its Nice Ride program in 2023 after losing a key sponsor. The program was quickly replaced, though, when the city contracted with three for-profit operators, including the scooter vendor Lime.

The bike share program in Columbus, CoGo, has been supported with a total of $1.6 million in funding from the city over the last year as it seeks a long-term corporate sponsor. The Columbus program is managed by San Francisco-based mobility provider Lyft.

One bright spot is in Austin, Texas, which is planning to triple the size of its bike share program thanks in large part to an $11.3 million federal grant. The city plans to replace and upgrade its 80 bike stations, 1,000 docks, and 800 bicycles.

The consultant hired to examine Cincinnati’s program found it to be in line with other cities’ not-for-profit systems and said

it was one of the more efficiently operated systems of those it was compared to. “From an operational standpoint, Red Bike is very competitive compared to these other places, so the expenses are not out of whack and the revenue is not out of whack,” says Jeffreys.

“We’re operating well above our capacity, given what we spend,” McClintock says. “We’ve run a very tight and efficient system.”

Red Bike stakeholders will likely look at the two main ridership demographics to see if more revenue can be earned from them. That could mean finding ways to encourage tourists and others who ride for fun and leisure and typically pay the full $12 fare to ride more often.

The key to Red Bike’s sustainable future may lie with Metro, the region’s bus system. Locating more Red Bike stations near Metro transit centers and bus stops could increase ridership by giving bus riders an alternative to walking or driving those last few blocks from the stop to home or work. “There are opportunities to integrate it as a ‘last mile’

solution for Metro,” Jeffreys says. “This system has not been designed for that, but there are ways you could design it to more fully integrate public transit with Red Bike usage.”

Jeffreys suggests studying such a design with a pilot project, perhaps in Northside, where Metro operates a transit hub, or in Clifton, another alternate-transportationfriendly neighborhood with lots of bus routes passing through. That could include some sort of all-inclusive fare or pass that allows passholders to ride Metro buses and Red Bikes. Metro, which is supported in part by a countywide sales tax, could even be a permanent sponsor of the bike share program.“You can imagine it being called Metro Bikes or Go Metro Bikes,” Jeffreys says.

In 2020, Hamilton County voters approved raising the county sales tax (and reducing the city of Cincinnati’s earnings tax) for a period of 25 years, producing more than $100 million a year in additional funding for Metro operations. Metro has earmarked that money for upgrading the bus system in

terms of new and expanded routes, new bus rapid transit corridors, new “last mile” transit options, and other projects.

Linking bike share programs with public transit is currently being tried in a few cities. Pittsburgh has combined its bike share and bus/light rail system fares into a single account and digital app, while in Tucson, Arizona, holders of a reduced fare bus pass are eligible for a $5 annual bike share membership.

Consultant Hugh Ralston updated the board of Metro parent SORTA on results to date of its study in September, and Metro’s chief of staff, Andy Aiello, is part of a team studying the system along with Ralston, Jeffreys, Cincinnati Regional Chamber Vice President Pete Metz, and John Yung of the Haile Foundation. Decisions on the structure and funding of Red Bike 2.0 will be made in the next few months.

Red Bike appears to everyone involved to be a reliable network, and paying for and unlocking the bikes is pretty easy. I rode for the

first time not for fun or essential transportation but for professional research. I downloaded the Red Bike app after fumbling with it for a few minutes (my problem) and used it to unlock a bike.

I chose an e-bike, designated with a lightning bolt on the frame, at the Findlay Market station and set off toward The Banks. As a bicyclist who rides a 16-speed, drophandled, Japanese road bike, I was a little skeptical of the heavy Red Bike with a basket in the front. They’re a little clunky, but the electric assist accelerated quickly, even up hills. The motor had plenty of charge (an indicator on the handlebar shows how much), and I rode downtown, around streets at The Banks, over the Suspension Bridge into Covington, then to Newport and back to Findlay Market. The seat is adjustable, and I used the basket to hold my notebook and phone. Whatever Red Bike’s future looks like, I can report that my “work ride” turned out to be a lot of fun. And my own knees felt just fine.

other tryptamines, which are a different class of molecules than MDMA, have lower side effects,” he says. “They have no addiction tendency, so you don’t build up a resistance to them. I think the next round of drugs may have a better chance at getting FDA approval.”

HOW DID THESE COMPOUNDS EVOLVE TO weavetheir strange magic on our minds?

One theory is that some fungi became psychedelic as a deterrent against prehistoric slugs. Psilocybin-bearing fungi emerged around the time an asteroid wiped out the dinosaurs and 80 percent of life on Earth, leaving fungi and gastropods to thrive.

Certain psychedelic mushrooms also benefit from attracting insects and controlling their behavior to some extent, writes renowned Miami University mycologist Nik Money, whose latest book, Molds, Mushrooms, and Medicines (Princeton University Press, 2024), includes a chapter on the science and implications of psilocybinproducing mushrooms. One fungus infests cicadas, filling their abdomen with spores and drugging the males so they wiggle like females, thereby attracting more hosts to spread spores.

Then there’s “zombie-ant fungus.” Infected ants are inspired to climb to the heights of plants, where they bite down in a death grip before the fungus explodes from their heads and sprays spores into the air.

We’ll probably never fully understand how mushrooms and fungi come to produce psilocybin, says Money. “What we do know is that psilocybin works with a very specific serotonin receptor in our nervous system,” he says. There’s still so much we don’t understand about these drugs, he adds, and the study of psychedelics is further complicated by the contrasting motives for their use by different classes of user.

“You’ve got the group of people who use them medically, seeking relief from chronic depression, including the despair that comes with terminal illness, as well as for PTSD and addiction,” he says. “Then there are those for whom psilocybin is part of their spiritual practice.”

Finally, there are recreational users.

Money has never tried psychedelics, but he recognizes their therapeutic promise. He’s skeptical of the world-changing possibilities of tripping that some advocates believe in—though he acknowledges that scientist Kary Mullis credited his 1985 Nobel Prize–winning discovery of the polymerase chain reaction (PCR) process to psychedelic use. “He claims that it was during an LSD trip that he actually began to see how this almost miraculous molecular technique would fit together,” he says. The PCR technique has revolutionized scientists’ ability to manipulate DNA, enabling the very biotechnology that Jones uses to make massive doses of psychedelics in his lab.

The use of psychedelic drugs for healing and spiritual practice runs deep in human history. With their rediscovery by Western science, beginning with Albert Hofmann’s synthesis of LSD in 1929, scientists have turned to psychedelics to treat mental health conditions and plumb the mind’s mysteries. Hoffman went on to isolate and synthesize psilocybin and other drugs in the service of creating new pharmaceuticals.

U.S. scientists enthusiastically studied these drugs well into the 1960s. But after 1970, when President Nixon signed the Controlled Substances Act, legal production ceased. Psychedelic drugs, despite their documented promise, went underground.

Money feels that the decision “to ’shroom or not to ’shroom” is personal, but he worries about young people opting in. “And I’m troubled by the opening of clinics in Oregon,” he says. “What would qualify somebody to be a counselor who might guide a young person on their psychedelic experience?”

ERIC LEE, M.D., ISN’T A PSYCHEDELIC therapist. But as the owner of Space Psychedelic Clinic in Portland, Oregon, he administers psilocybin to patients, who are guided through the experience by licensed facilita-

tors, who undergo training and must pass an exam and a criminal background check. Discreet behind a privacy fence and Zen-style garden, Lee’s business is one of approximately 25 legal Oregon clinics where patients take psilocybin under the guidance of licensed facilitators. The clinic’s decor is understated, filled with plants. A pair of puffy beige recliners dominate the treatment room.

Lee, a Cleveland native and former emergency room doctor, says he’s put a lot of thought into the environment, which influences the experience, what practitioners call “set and setting.” The idea to open a psilocybin clinic came to him while he was on mushrooms at a music festival, he says. He’s candid about his recreational use of psychedelics and his belief that these experiences have guided him to discovering new ideas. “But facilitated psilocybin therapy is completely different from recreational use,” he says. “Formal psychedelic work involves a lot of preparation, and, really, no amount is too much.”

Oregon legally requires counseling and preparation before the drug’s administration. Patients must pass a brief health screening. After the trip, they can attend follow-up therapy sessions, termed “integration.”

Lee believes that to have a positive outcome from psilocybin therapy “it’s important to have a clear goal,” he says, “more than just wanting to feel better.” The preparation phase is where clients begin to focus on that goal. Treatment-resistant depression and anxiety are the two biggest issues Lee’s clinic treats. And if you’re coming here to tackle addiction or over-reliance on a substance, you need to have already begun to taper off, he says. Psychedelic therapy should only be part of ongoing treatment.

While on psilocybin at Space Clinic, patients are free to move around the space and even go outside, which, if you’ve ever taken mushrooms, is something you often want to do. But, Lee says, “We want people to turn within, which is to put on a blindfold and get under the blanket and really think about their problems for a few hours. And that only happens when people are fully prepared.”

State law allows psychedelic facilitators to administer up to 50 milligrams of psilo-

For over 100 years, Cincinnati-founded DAV has been dedicated to a single purpose: empowering veterans to lead high-quality lives with respect and dignity.

CHANGING MINDS

cybin, which, in the parlance of the initiated, is a “heroic” dose. Not everyone needs that much, says Lee.

His clients aren’t paying just for legal access to psilocybin; much of the $900 cost of a session at Space Clinic goes to the facilitator. The treatment isn’t cheap, he’s well aware, especially when you factor in the plane ticket for those traveling from out of state.

But Lee contrasts his space with “luxury” psychedelic clinics that have sprung up. He’s one of the least expensive options, he says, because lowering the financial bar to access is important to him. Cost of access is a major concern in the nascent psychedelic therapy field, one of the reasons cited by supporters of MDMA-assisted psychotherapy for speedy FDA approval. Many of those seeking these drugs for mental health reasons are already disproportionately burdened by their conditions, which fall most heavily on the socioeconomically disadvantaged.

experience: cluster headaches, also known as “suicide headaches.”

When news circulated that psilocybin and other psychedelics can stop and prevent the recurrence of cluster headaches, people were soon sharing information on growing magic mushrooms for self-treatment. Because that’s illegal in the U.S., interest snowballed into advocacy and fund-raising for psychedelics research, culminating in clinical trials at Harvard University.

“There’s been a surprising lack of research on the use of psychedelics for pain treatment,” says Kempner, “given that the federal government has poured billions into finding safe, non-addictive alternatives to opioids.” But she’s encouraged by a recent proliferation of studies on psilocybin for pain, including for phantom limb pain, chronic back pain, and fibromyalgia. And LSD treatment for cancer pain is on the horizon, she says.

“WE NEED TO SCALE UP APPROVAL OF PSYCHEDELICS TO FIX TRAUMA, YET THE WAY THE MEDICAL FIELD IS BEHAVING ACTUALLY CONTRIBUTES TO TRAUMA.”

Access and safety, Lee says, “are why legal facilitated psychedelics are important. We can exist in broad daylight. People don’t have to tiptoe around or go underground. A lot of mental boxes about safety are checked off. So people can come here and really get into it. I don’t want you to have a mild experience. I want people to really go for it. And you can really only do that when you feel really good about what’s going on.”

While Lee keeps busy serving patients who visit to address mental health issues, psychedelics also show remarkable promise for addressing physical pain. That potential is central in Rutgers University professor Joanna Kempner’s latest book, Psychedelic Outlaws: The Movement Revolutionizing Modern Medicine (Hachette, 2024). She follows an organized effort to resurrect psychedelic medicine by an online group of individuals suffering from what’s considered the worst pain humans

INTEREST IN PSYCHEDELICS IS AT A tipping point in the U.S. There’s monetary investment and bipartisan support on the table. But there’s also an understandable dose of distrust for pharmaceutical companies, given revelations about their role in the opioid epidemic. The recent backlash against ketamine therapy isn’t helping either.

With recreational cannabis now legal in Ohio, some wonder whether psychedelics might be next for the Buckeye State. Some Ohio entrepreneurs anticipate legal psilocybin here, but legislative bodies have yet to entertain the notion.

Ohio State University became the first U.S. college to get DEA permission to grow psilocybin for research purposes. Clinical trials using psilocybin to treat depression are underway there now, as well as at the Cleveland Clinic. For the time being, Cincinnatians seeking a legal psychedelic ex-

perience must travel to Oregon.

Some of the fervor for access to psychedelic drugs stems from the desperation of those suffering from a slew of medical conditions. Nese Devenot knows all too well the heated emotions this debate can generate. Doing post-doctoral work in psychedelic humanities at the University of Cincinnati, she’s made waves nationally with warnings that the excitement over psychedelics was leading to outright misinformation and fueling a “psychedelic hype bubble.”

Devenot and Cincinnati-based journalist Russell Hausfeld, who investigates the psychedelics movement, are colleagues in the research nonprofit Psymposia. They consider their own lives to have been improved by psychedelics and want to see medical applications done right.

Devenot started a petition in April calling for an FDA advisory committee to be convened regarding Lykos Therapeutics’s application for drug approval, and after doing so endured social media attacks and was falsely mischaracterized as opposing the medicalization of psychedelics. “This is not anti-psychedelic but a pro-psychedelic perspective,” Devenot says, adding that Psymposia is simply calling for more transparency, rigor, and protections for trial participants.

Hausfeld says he came to Psymposia from a position of wanting to destigmatize and demystify psychedelics. While investigating a death that happened on Lykos’s watch, as well as allegations of sexual assault in their trials, he realized the organization was being less than honest. “I found out they were withholding data,” he says. “And so that was sort of a turning point for me. A lot of people right now are acting as if the FDA’s denial of Lykos’s application is going to derail the entire industry. But the opposite is true.”

Devenot agrees that the FDA’s decision to deny Lykos’s application could be positive for the pharmaceutical industry. “As production is scaling up, it’s going to be really important to address these abuses of power. The whole premise of why we need to scale up so quickly is to fix trauma, and yet the way the field is behaving is actually contributing to trauma,” says Nese Devenot.

Devenot believes too many people are buying into the narrative that psychedelics are going to fix every problem and therefore don’t ask too many questions. “I hear lots of people saying, Get psychedelics out to as many people as quickly as possible, and that’s going to help solve climate change and polarization, the rise of fascism, and all these problems,” she says. “Actually, it’s like we’re sleepwalking into the dystopian future.”

There’s a growing notion that an awe-inducing drug that dissolves one’s ego and gives a vivid sense of the interconnectedness of all things might actually help humanity overcome its differences and make us more environmentally conscious, even kinder. But psychedelics are also what psychiatrist and LSD researcher Stan Grof called “non-specific amplifiers” that magnify what’s already present in the conscious and unconscious mind. Despite all of the controversy and debate, Devenot believes in psychedelics’ potential as a tool for “imagining a world without many of the conditions that are driving all this PTSD in the first place.”

Will the neuroplasticity that psychedelics encourage help us imagine new paths to confront the existential threats facing humanity? Certainly, healing individuals is a step toward healing the whole. Kempner has seen psychedelic medicine save lives. In her book, the quest for psychedelic access becomes a lens to reconsider modern medicine, magnifying its fl aws but also showing ways to improve the slow and costly process behind getting new drugs approved.

“Self-experimentation has historically driven scientific progress,” says Kempner. “In the case of psychedelics, self-experimentation has sparked both curiosity and funding. Rather than aiming for perfect objectivity—which may not be fully achievable—we should accept that subjectivity is part of the process.”

The use of psychedelics in research creates a feedback loop where the drugs, pharmaceutical companies, and social context all influence each other, she says. “But good research methods, honesty, and transparency are crucial for managing the complex questions we face.”

EACH MONTH, YOU'LL ENJOY FOUR SPECIALLY SELECTED WINES .

Each box includes tasting notes and suggested pairings for these exclusive wines, many of which are limited release or small production.

HAVE YOUR BOX DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR OR PICK IT UP AT URBAN STEAD IN WALNUT HILLS

COURT STREET EATING

THE NEW AMERICANA

COURT STREET KITCHEN tempts diners with variety.

—M. LEIGH HOOD

COURT STREET KITCHEN’S LOW LIGHT, COOL COLORS, AND MID-CENTURY MODERN design craft a subtly metropolitan ambiance. The space lends each booth, table, and bar stool a suggestion of privacy. It feels like the kind of hidden big-city spot you’ll only find with a local guide. But Court Street Kitchen isn’t hiding, and it’s starting to gather regulars. There’s a time for everyone: The power lunch crowd turns to office mates tossing back drinks and oysters after work, with happy hour flowing seamlessly into dinner service.

This shapeshifting is by design. When asked for a theme to clarify a vision for the new eatery for investors, Chef/Owner Braheam Shteiwi resisted. He wanted to develop a friendly chameleon capable of becoming the neighborhood bar and the book club’s favorite brunch spot, a chance to flex his hospitality experience. He grew up in the business, watching his father run multiple restaurants and franchises through Cincinnati, Dayton, and Oxford, and was determined to make something unique. Shteiwi brought his ambition to Court Street, where guests can watch the big game with friends at the bar, go on a date, or share a meal with family.

The menu is New American, featuring a collection of dishes shaped by personal and professional experiences. Chef de Cuisine Nott Khonsue brings his sushi background from Jeff Ruby’s to the ahi tuna tataki and ceviche, and Shteiwi’s mother’s personal recipe for za’atar (a spice blend with toasted sesame seeds, dehydrated herbs like basil and mint, and olive oil) makes an appearance in several starter items. Shteiwi’s own blend of classical French training and work under an Italian chef add critical layers to the restaurant’s concept.

FYI Court

Hours

Prices $4.50 (oysters)–$109 (32oz. Porterhouse)

Credit Cards All major

The aforementioned za’atar is already a signature ingredient, served along with olive oil and salted butter as part of the Sixteen Bricks bread service and sprinkled over the hummus plate. Smooth, creamy, and bright, there’s no wrong way to enjoy it, but layering cucumber and hummus on a wedge of warm, grilled house bread is a personal favorite.

That isn’t the end of the veggies. Most of the main dishes come with vegetable sides, and they’re expected to pull their own weight. Broccolini, heirloom carrots, seasonal squash, and potatoes receive the same tender, loving care as the entrées they frame, but they don’t hide under extra sauce or glaze. They’re seared after blanching, leaving a few crunchy buds on the broccolini and lovely stripes over the carrots. A touch of clarified butter ensures everything tastes as good as it looks.

As wonderful as the sides are, it’s worth noting that vegetarian diners have only a single entrée to choose—the ratatouille pasta. It’s one of the restaurant’s only drawbacks, though that’s no fault of the dish itself. The rest of the mains revolve around seafood, pasta, and the grill. The roasted lemon chicken tastes the way Julia Child’s cooking looks. Brimming with savory depth illuminated by the lemon and arriving on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes, the dish is an elevated take on a classic staple without sacrificing homestyle warmth. Think of it as “classy comfort food.”

The branzino is a showstopper. It highlights the restaurant’s dedication to thoughtfully prepared, extremely fresh food, and it may be the best piece of fish I’ve had in Cincinnati. Its story begins with sourcing. To ensure freshness, the restaurant only orders

about 10 pounds of it at a time, which lasts roughly three meal services. This requires reordering four times a week, and the fish arrives as full sides for the chefs to break down themselves. Most of the seafood, including the salmon, has a similar schedule, but if it’s a race, the oysters win. They’re harvested no more than 48 hours before landing on Court Street’s doorstep.

Once the branzino reaches the kitchen, the real magic begins. Grilling turns the skin crispy before the fish is finally poached in citrus butter immediately before serving. The tender fillet practically melts in your mouth, and masterful seasoning underscores the sea bass’s mellow profile.

Another classic that Court Street turns up to 11 is the scampi. The fettuccine comes from Caruso’s—another of Shteiwi’s businesses—but the pasta shares the spotlight (and nearly half the bowl) with exquisitely juicy chicken. However, chicken and pasta ultimately play second fiddle to the white wine cream sauce. Vibrant green peas summon the sweet notes from the wine, balancing against robust Parmesan and prosciutto. Herbs and citrus butter thread through it all, stitching the decadent dish together. Be wary of sharing; no one will be satisfied with their allotted number of bites.

Kicking off the meal with fresh vegetables and sticking to seafood and pasta made for a brilliant excuse to indulge in dessert. I’d heard rumors about the olive oil cake, and it lives up to word on the street. It’s a year-round taste of summer brought to life with vivid lemon icing, Chantilly cream, and tart raspberry sauce, almost as energizing as an after-dinner coffee.

Diners beware: The variety at Court Street Kitchen is a trap. It will call you back to investigate everything the dinner service has to offer before you realize there’s a whole brunch menu, and suddenly you, too, have become a regular.

HOLDING COURT (From left) Court Street Kitchen’s dining room; ceviche with aji Amarillo peppers, Tiger’s Milk sauce, mango, cucumber, and a side of plantain chips; Chef de Cuisine Nott Khonsue and Chef/Owner Braheam Shteiwi; ahi tuna tataki sliced to finish with ponzu.

Send Noods

FROM THE MIND OF CHEF PAUL LIEW, FORMER OWNER OF STRAITS OF MALACCA, SAGO brings Malaysian cuisine to Mt. Lookout. Liew charmed audiences nationwide on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, and the restaurant’s menu bursts with buns, boba drinks, and Hainanese chicken, but don’t overlook the humble noodle. The restaurant offers noodle pairings with several kinds of chicken, pork, and vegetarian specialties, and customers can choose between soup and dry noodles with soy sauce.

The soup noodles with shrimp and pork wontons and BBQ pork are as filling as they are tasty. Tender pork rests on a bed of noodles, sharing its sauce with the heart of the dish. Lightly smoky with just enough sugar for contrast, the BBQ highlights the meal’s other ingredients without overwhelming the mild bitterness of the green onions or the shrimp in the wontons. The broth—subtly sweet and rounded with deep umami notes—elevates a tasty collection of individual flavors into a unified bowl of comfort.

Sago’s fried chicken isn’t your average bird. It’s boneless, but it’s miles from a tender. The crispy layers of deep-friend batter crumble in delicate flakes around a chunk of dark and light meat. Garlic sesame or lime basil dipping sauces bring out the flavor and turn a great piece of fried chicken into a novel experience. It’s hard to resist, especially since you can add a piece à la carte to any meal as a side. —M. LEIGH HOOD

DAMION AND SONYA LYNCH

THE LEADERS OF THE CHEF collective Chefbobbombs (shefba-bomms) are ready to shake things up.

How did ChefBobbombs come to be? DL: We started back in the early 2000s with a group of friends. We would all meet on Sunday for dinner and each would cook a dish. A business began after we graduated as the events grew in number and nature.

What’s the overall goal of the initiative? SL: To offer a safe space to create memories through the love of food and art. DL: Chefbobbombs is the spirit of the new food culture, a collaborative of eclectic chefs and foodies partying and plating.

Where did the name come from?

DL: It’s a play on the band name from one of our favorite films, Scott Pilgrim vs. the World

When does LICK (Lynch’s Ice Cream Kitchen) officially open? DL: The impact of the pandemic, job loss, outrageous increases to materials and construction costs keep pushing opening back.

Why focus on ice cream? SL: It’s that “something sweet” that everyone needs as a part of their day that brings comfort and joy.

What makes someone a “foodie”?

SL: To me, a foodie is someone who doesn’t shy away from the different experiences that food can bring. DL: If you get some joy out of eating above just sustenance you are a foodie. – AIESHA D . LITTLE

Sago, 1004 Delta Ave., Mt. Lookout, (513) 321-0982, citrusandsago.net

FYI chefbobbomb.com

Read a longer interview with Damion and Sonya at cincinnatimagazine.com

Heineman’s Winery

Heineman Winery, now in its 5th generation is Ohio’s oldest family-owned winery. Take a ferry trip to Putin-Bay and enjoy a bottle of wine and a cheese plate in our beautiful wine garden. We are also home to Crystal Cave, the world’s largest Celestite geode!

Tours daily, early May-end of September. Call the winery for more details.

978 Catawba Avenue Put-in-Bay, OH 43456 (419) 285-2811 heinemanswinery.com

Revel OTR Urban Winery

Revel is a minority owned, urban winery located in Cincinnati’s downtown Over-The-Rhine neighborhood. We pride ourselves as winemakers led by Winemaker, Alex Sena, creating award winning handcrafted wines made on-site using fruit sourced locally and across the country. We specialize in drier wines using a process that originated by the Maieron family in Naples, Italy and passed down generation over generation. We make up to 13 wines and offer tastings Tues-Sun plus to-go discounts!

111 E 12th Street Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 (513) 579-9463 info@revelotr.com https://www.revelotr.com

ENOUGH’S ENOUGH

S IX MONTHS AFTER THE closure of Chef Jose Salazar’s namesake restaurant, Salazar, the James Beard Award–nominated chef opened his newest dining endeavor in the very same space. Safi Wine Bar (safi translates to enough, commonly used at the end of a good meal) is a Mediterranean-inspired space filled with intimate seating, warm tones, and comfortable throw pillows. While the extensive wine list might bring you in the door, stay for the menu of small plates with big flavor. If you’re looking for a simple, savory snack to pair with your wine, try the warm marinated olives or the Zalouk, an

eggplant and tomato compote served with house-made Moroccan bread. Bring out the sweeter side with the Medjool dates and Cabra al Vino cheese. Need more protein? Go small with the shaved duck salami that is perfectly, thinly sliced, or big with the Lamb Tagine (slow cooked lamb shank, hand-rolled cous cous, seasonal vegetables, preserved lemon, green harissa). You can’t forget about dessert. The briwat (Moroccan almond pastry) and the truffles (dark chocolate, cinnamon, cardamom) come in sharable sets of four. By the end of your visit, you’ll be ready to say “safi.”

—BRIANNA CONNOCK

Together, We Are Changing Lives

Every day, families in our community face the overwhelming challenges of hunger, homelessness, and access to basic health services. At St. Vincent de Paul - Cincinnati, we’re committed to providing help and hope to our neighbors in need through nutritious meals, rent and utility assistance, free healthcare services, and prescription access.

But we don’t stop there. Our empowerment and self-sufficiency programs equip individuals to rebuild their lives and move toward a brighter future. Your generosity makes all the difference. Whether through financial contributions or donations of clothing and household goods, you are helping transform lives. Together, we can ensure that no one has to face life’s challenges alone.

Donate today at SVDPcincinnati.org/gives.

Clothing, furniture, and home goods can be donated at any of our thrift store locations or call 513-421-CARE for a free pick up.

Nominate an Outstanding Nurse

For more than three decades, the University of Cincinnati College of Nursing has brought the Greater Cincinnati community together to recognize and celebrate outstanding nurses who go above and beyond to provide exceptional patient care.

Every year, we receive hundreds of inspiring applications from coworkers, patients, family members and supervisors, and feel thankful for the opportunity to honor nursing talent in the region.

SUBMIT YOUR NOMINATION BY DECEMBER 31, 2024

Individual and team-leading recipients will be recognized at the Torch of Excellence Nursing Awards ceremony in May 2025.

Nominees must be licensed as a registered nurse and be employed in the Greater Cincinnati area.

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION AND SPONSORSHIP OPPORTUNITIES

Anthony Contini Development Program Manager, University of Cincinnati Academic Health Center continaj@foundation.uc.edu

DINING GUIDE

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE’S dining guide is compiled by our editors as a service to our readers. The magazine accepts no advertising or other consideration in exchange for a restaurant listing. The editors may add or delete restaurants based on their judgment. Because of space limitations, all

of the guide’s restaurants may not be included. Many restaurants have changing seasonal menus; dishes listed here are examples of the type of cuisine available and may not be on the menu when you visit.

To update listings, e-mail: cmletters@cincinnati magazine.com

AMERICAN

BOOMTOWN BISCUITS & WHISKEY

Boomtown leans hard into the Gold Rush theme: prospector-style overall aprons on servers, bluegrass tunes humming, and rustic decor details. And the dense grub isn’t for the faint of heart. Arrive with an empty belly, ready for a carbo load. The biscuits are all they’re cracked up to be, and the gravy’s not playing around, either. Sample its biscuits and gravy styles with a gravy flight. Or try The Yukon, an anytime breakfast sandwich, featuring fried chicken on par with the best the city has to offer. By the end of the meal, you’ll feel a little out of place without your own denim getup. 9039 U.S. Route 42, Suite H, Union, (859) 384-5910, boomtownbiscuitsandwhiskey. com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Wed–Sat. Breakfast and lunch Sun. MCC. $

BROWN DOG CAFÉ

If you haven’t had a plate of Shawn McCoy’s design set in front of you, it’s about time. Many of the menu’s dishes show his knack for the plate as a palette. A trio of duck breast, lamb chop, and demi haute chocolate boar is a standout. The eye for detail and contrasts of colors and textures belongs to someone who cares for food.

1000 Summit Place, Blue Ash, (513) 794-1610, thebrowndogcafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

COZY’S CAFÉ & PUB

On a visit to England, Jan Collins discovered the “cozy” atmosphere of London restaurants built in historic houses. She brought that warm, comfortable feeling back to the United States in opening Cozy’s. Though the atmosphere in the restaurant is reminiscent of Collins’s London travels, the food remains proudly American. The produce in virtually every dish is fresh, seasonal, and flavorful. The braised short rib stands out with its cheesy grits and haystack onions along with a portion of tender meat. And when it comes down to the classics, from the biscuits that open the meal to the carrot cake at the end, Cozy’s does it right. 6440 Cincinnati Dayton Rd., Liberty Twp.,

MELLO OUT

This month, Mellotone Beer Project hosts its grand opening in the former Taft Ale House space at 1429 Race St. in Over-the-Rhine. Named after a Duke Ellington album, the brewpub will focus on seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. mellotonebeer.com

KEY: No checks unless specified.

AE American Express, DC Diners Club

DS Discover, MC MasterCard, V Visa

MCC Major credit cards: AE, MC, V

$ = Under $15

$$ = Up to $30

$$$ = Up to $49

$$$$ = $50 and up

(513) 644-9365, cozyscafeandpub.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$$

EMBERS

The menu here is built for celebration: poshly priced steak and sushi selections are meant to suit every special occasion. Appetizers are both classic (shrimp cocktail) and Asian-inspired (shrimp tempura); fashionable ingredients are name-checked (micro-greens and truffles); a prominent sushi section (nigiri, sashimi, and rolls) precedes a list of archetypal salads; Kobe beef on sushi rolls sidles up to steaks of prime; non-steak entrées (Chilean sea bass or Dover sole with haricots verts and almondine) make for high-style alternative selections. Talk about a party.

8170 Montgomery Rd., Madeira, (513) 9848090, embersrestaurant.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

GREYHOUND TAVERN

Back in the streetcar days, this roughly 100-yearold roadhouse was at the end of the Dixie Highway line, where the cars turned around to head north. The place was called the Dixie Tea Room then, and they served ice cream. The fried chicken came along in the 1930s, and they’re still dishing it up today. Families and regulars alike pile in on Mondays and Tuesdays for the fried chicken special. While the juicy (never greasy) chicken with its lightly seasoned, crisp coating is the star, the side dishes—homemade biscuits, coleslaw, green beans, mashed potatoes, and gravy—will make you ask for seconds. Call ahead no matter what night you choose: There’s bound to be a crowd. Not in the mood for chicken? Choose from steaks, seafood, sandwiches, and comfort food options that include meatloaf and a Kentucky Hot Brown. Or just try the onion rings. You’ll wonder where onions that big come from.

2500 Dixie Highway, Ft. Mitchell, (859) 3313767, greyhoundtavern.com. Lunch and dinner seven days, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $$

MR. GENE’S DOGHOUSE

Cumminsville is home to arguably the best hot chili cheese mett and chocolate malt in Greater Cincinnati. A family-owned business that began as a simple hot dog stand more than 50 years ago, Mr. Gene’s still attracts lines of loyal customers at its

windows. Can’t stand the heat? Order the mild chili cheese mett—more flavor, fewer BTUs. And if you still haven’t embraced Cincinnati-style coneys, try the Chicago-style hot dog with pickles, onions, relish, mustard, tomato, sport peppers, and celery salt; a pork sandwich; or wings (a sign proclaims “So hot they make the devil sweat”). Although the chocolate malt is the biggest seller, we love the $4.75 pineapple shake, made with real pineapple. 3703 Beekman St., South Cumminsville, (513) 541-7636, mrgenesdoghouse.com. Open Feb–Oct for lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MC, V. $

Top 10 IVORY

HOUSE

The menu here generally doesn’t reinvent dishes or introduce outlandish flavors, but simply pays attention to enough little things to make the results unusually good. All steaks are premium and hand-selected, the star player being the Japanese A5 Wagyu. The Ultimate Surf & Turf is a date night favorite with a 34-ounce Angus Tomahawk, four shrimp, four scallops and two lobster tails. Bluefin tuna steak is complemented by cilantro lime rice, a vegetable medley, chimichurri, and a soy ginger vinaigrette. Confit duck leg, an Ivory House specialty, is served with parsnip mash, confit beets, and berry gastrique. The cocktails are ones you’ve probably seen before, but everything—from the Death Valley Farm Old Fashioned to the Best West Lemon Drop—has an extra dash of liveliness from a house-made element, like the rosemary syrup. 2998 Harrison Ave., Westwood, (513) 3890175, ivoryhousecincy.com. Dinner seven days, brunch Sun. MCC. DC. $$$

THE NORTHSTAR CAFÉ

In Northstar’s first outpost beyond the Greater Columbus area, the space itself reflects the ethos of the food: warm and comfortable, but still modern and fresh. The dinner and cocktail menus are fab, as is the large bar. But breakfast is worth waking up early for. Take the mushroom frittata, made with meaty mushrooms, caramelized sweet onions, and Gruyère. The portions are no joke—that frittata comes with breakfast potatoes and arugula—yet it doesn’t feel gluttonous or excessive. In large part that’s due to the freshness (e.g., the sausage made in-house daily) and the abundance of healthy options. One of our favorites: the shooting star juice, a balanced blend of carrot, ginger,

orange, and lemon.

7610 Sloan Way, Liberty Township, (513) 759-0033, thenorthstarcafe.com. Breakfast and dinner seven days, lunch Mon–Fri, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC. No cash. $

QUATMAN CAFÉ

The quintessential neighborhood dive, Quatman’s sits in the shadow of the Our Lady of the Holy Spirit Center, serving up a classic bar burger. Look elsewhere if you like your burger with exotic toppings: This half-pound of grilled beef is served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and pickle. Sometimes cheese. The no-frills theme is straightforward and appealing. A menu of standard sandwich fare and smooth mock turtle soup; beer on tap or soda in cans (no wine or liquor); and plenty of kitsch is served daily. Peppered with regulars, families, and political discussions, Quatman’s is far from fancy, but it’s fun, fast, and delicious.

2434 Quatman Ave., Norwood, (513) 731-4370; 224 W. Main St., Mason, (513) 229-0222, quatmancafe.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, MCC. $

RON’S ROOST

Ron’s stakes its reputation on its fried chicken, serving roughly 10,000 pieces weekly. It takes a few minutes, since each batch is made to order. Ron’s also serves chicken 18 other ways, including chicken livers in gravy. It’s all about the chicken here, but the menu is five solid pages of other stuff good enough to be called specialties: Oktoberfest sauerbraten, Black Angus cheeseburgers, fried whitefish on rye, hot bacon slaw, lemon meringue pie (homemade, of course), and the best Saratoga chips this side of Saratoga. 3853 Race Rd., Bridgetown, (513) 574-0222, ronsroost. net. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

THE SCHOOLHOUSE RESTAURANT

An old flag stands in one corner and pictures of Abe Lincoln and the first George W. hang on the wall of this Civil War–era schoolhouse. The daily menu of familiar Midwestern comfort fare is written in letter-perfect cursive on the original chalkboard. Once you order from a woman who bears an uncanny resemblance to your high school lunch lady, the elevated lazy Susan in the center of the table begins to fill up with individual bowls and baskets of cornbread, slaw, salad, mashed potatoes, chicken gravy, and vegetables. The deal here is quantity. More mashed potatoes with your fried chicken? More cornbread with your baked ham? You don’t even have to raise your hand.

8031 Glendale-Milford Rd., Camp Dennison, (513) 8315753, theschoolhousecincinnati.com. Lunch Thurs–Fri, dinner Thurs–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

SOUL SECRETS

You no longer need an event to celebrate with a fish fry. At Candice Holloway’s restaurant, Soul Secrets, fried chicken and fish are always on the menu. Servers wearing T-shirts that read “my ancestors sent me” introduce guests to a trim menu full of the best soul food. You can’t go wrong with the fried fish platters. The whiting is good, but the catfish is divine. The cornmeal breading is so perfectly seasoned you won’t need salt, and the light crunch it adds doesn’t hide the star of the show. So soft it’s nearly fluffy, the catfish melts in your mouth. Each catfish platter delivers two enormous pieces of fish along with two sides and a cornbread muffin that may be the best in Cincinnati. This is the kind of meal you take home with you—not just in your heart but in a box—because chances are low you’ll conquer all the fish and sides in one go.

1434 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-7685, soulsecretscincy.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $

SUGAR N’ SPICE

This Paddock Hills diner, with other locations in Over-theRhine and Blue Ash, has been dishing up wispy-thin pancakes and football-sized omelettes to Cincinnatians since FDR was signing new deals. Breakfast and lunch offerings mix old-hat classics like steak and eggs, corned beef hash, and basic burgers with funky iterations that draw on ethnic

ingredients such as chorizo and tzatziki. Get here early if you don’t want to stand in line.

4381 Reading Rd., Paddock Hills, (513) 242-3521; 1203 Sycamore St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 762-0390; 10275 Summit Pkwy., Blue Ash, (513) 447-6453, eatsugarnspice.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $

TANO BISTRO

This Loveland bistro is comfortable, with reasonably priced food and amenable service. The menu is tidy—25 or so dishes divided between appetizers, salads, and entrées, plus two or three specials—its flavor profile partially influenced by a childhood growing up in a third-generation Italian family. Most of Tano Bistro’s main courses lean toward the comfortable side of American. For instance, Williams serves a stuffed salmon and an allegiance pork chop. The sprout & snout appetizer is also worth a trip to Loveland, combining balsamic-drizzled Brussels sprouts with sliced pork belly.

204 W. Loveland Ave., Loveland, (513) 683-8266; 150 Riverfront Plaza, Hamilton, (513) 795-8654, foodbytano. com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat, dinner Sun & Mon. MCC. $$$

TRIO

Trio is nothing if not a crowd-pleaser. Whether you’re in the mood for a California-style pizza or filet mignon (with a baked potato and compound herb butter), the menu is broad enough to offer something for everyone. It may lack a cohesive point of view, but with the number of regulars who come in seven nights a week, variety is Trio’s ace in the hole. A simple Margherita pizza with Roma tomatoes, basil, Parmesan, and mozzarella delivered a fine balance of crunchy crust, soft cheese, and sweet, roasted tomatoes. Paired with a glass of pinot noir, it made a perfect light meal. The service is friendly enough for a casual neighborhood joint but comes with white tablecloth attentiveness and knowledge. Combine that with the consistency in the kitchen, and Trio is a safe bet.

7565 Kenwood Rd., Kenwood, (513) 984-1905, triobistro.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC. $$

THE WILDFLOWER CAFÉ

Wildflower Café is not the sort of place that tries to wow anyone with feats of inventiveness. Its formula is simple but satisfying: lots of mostly local meat and produce, a menu that continuously changes with available ingredients, a nice selection of wine and beer, and well-made, homey food. The small, focused menu has a classic American quality (salads, steaks, burgers) with enough surprises to keep things interesting. Many of the dishes are designed with open spaces to be filled with whatever is available in the kitchen that day, an advantage of an unfussy style. You don’t go to Wildflower expecting a certain kind of perfection; you accept that your favorite dish from last time might be made differently tonight, or no longer available. Like the farmhouse that Wildflower occupies, the imperfections are part of the charm.

207 E. Main St., Mason, (513) 492-7514, wildflowermason.com. Dinner Mon–Fri. MCC. $$$

BARBECUE

BEE’S BARBEQUE

You’ll want to get to Bee’s early if you want to avoid the line of friendly regulars. The restaurant’s smoker churns out a variety of meats—including brisket, pulled pork, ribs, turkey breast, and two kinds of sausage—so it’s easy to see why they keep coming back. If you enjoy the spicy grease that oozes out of a good chorizo, you’ll love the Cincinnati Hot Link, which tastes like the delicious love child of a chorizo and a hot mett. Word to the wise: Bee’s opens at 11 a.m. and closes when they run out of meat. Understandably, this doesn’t take long.

5910 Chandler St., Madisonville, (513) 561-2337. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sat; 1403 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 721-2337, beesbarbecue.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $

ELI’S BBQ

Elias Leisring started building his pulled pork reputation under canopies at Findlay Market and Fountain Square

in 2011. Leisring’s proper little ’cue shack along the river serves up ribs that are speaking-in-tongues good, some of the zazziest jalapeño cheese grits north of the MasonDixon line, and browned mashed potatoes that would make any short-order cook diner-proud. The small no-frills restaurant—packed cheek-by-jowl most nights—feels like it’s been there a lifetime, with customers dropping vinyl on the turntable, dogs romping in the side yard, and picnic tables crowded with diners. The hooch is bring-your-own, and the barbecue is bona fide.

3313 Riverside Dr., East End, (513) 533-1957; 133 West Elder St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 533-1957, ext. 2, elisbarbeque.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

WALT’S HITCHING POST

A Northern Kentucky institution returns. Roughly 750 pounds of ribs per week are pit-fired in a small building in front of the restaurant, with a smaller dedicated smoker out back for brisket and chicken. Walt’s ribs begin with several hours in the smokehouse and then are quick-seared at the time of service. This hybrid method takes advantage of the leaner nature of the baby-back ribs they prefer to use. Each rib had a just-right tooth to it where soft flesh peeled away from the bone. One hidden treasure: Walt’s homemade tomato and garlic dressing. Slightly thicker than a vinaigrette yet unwilling to overwhelm a plate of greens, the two key elements play well together.

3300 Madison Pke., Ft. Wright, (859) 360-2222, waltshitchingpost.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

CAJUN/ CARIBBEAN

BREWRIVER CREOLE

More than 800 miles from New Orleans, this may be as close as you can get to the real deal here in your own backyard. The menu fully leans into Chef Michael Shields’s penchant for cuisine from the Crescent City. His six years of training under NOLA’s own Emeril Lagasse comes through in a scratch kitchen menu that spans a range of the city’s classics. The enormous shrimp and oyster po’boys—the former protein fried in a light and crispy beer batter and the latter in a hearty cornmeal breading—are served on fluffy French bread loaves and dressed with lightly spicy rémoulades. The jambalaya packs all the heat of a late summer day in the French Quarter without masking a hint of its satisfying flavors. Paired with a Sazerac and nightly live jazz, you may just feel tempted to start a second line. 4632 Eastern Ave., Linwood, (513) 861-2484, brewrivercreolekitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sun, brunch and lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $

SWAMPWATER GRILL

At first blush, this place is a dive where homesick Cajuns can find a good pile of jambalaya. But thoughtful details like draft Abita Root Beer and char-grilled Gulf Coast oysters on the half shell signal its ambition. Bayou standards like jambalaya, gumbo, and fried seafood also make an appearance. But the extensive menu also features amped-up pub-style items for those who may be squeamish about crawfish tails (which can be added to just about anything on the menu). You’ll also find a roundup of oyster, shrimp, catfish, and alligator po’boys, as well as a selection of hardwood-smoked meats.

3742 Kellogg Ave., East End, (513) 834-7067, swampwatergrill.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

KNOTTY PINE ON THE BAYOU

The Pine serves some of the best Louisiana home-style food you’ll find this far north of New Orleans. Taste the fried catfish filets with their peppery crust, or the garlic sauteed shrimp with smoky greens on the side, and you’ll understand why it’s called soul food. Between March and June, it’s crawfish season. Get them boiled and heaped high on a platter or in a superb crawfish etouffee. But the rockin’ gumbo—a thick, murky brew of andouille sausage, chicken, and vegetables—serves the best roundhouse punch all year round. As soon as you inhale the bouquet and take that first bite, you realize why Cajun-style food is considered a high art form and a serious pleasure. And you’ll start planning

your return trip.

6302 Licking Pke., Cold Spring, (859) 781-2200, theknottypineonthebayou.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

CHINESE

AMERASIA

A sense of energetic fun defines this tiny Chinese spot with a robust beer list. The glossy paper menu depicts Master Chef Rich Chu as a “Kung Food” master fighting the evil fast-food villain with dishes like “fly rice,” “Brocco-Lee,” and “Big Bird’s Nest.” Freshness rules. Potstickers, dumplings, and wontons are hand shaped. The Dragon’s Breath wontons will invade your dreams. Seasoned ground pork, onion, and cilantro meatballs are wrapped in egg dough, wok simmered, and topped with thick, spicy red pepper sauce and fresh cilantro. Noodles are clearly Chef Chu’s specialty, with zonxon (a tangle of thin noodles, finely chopped pork, and mushrooms cloaked in spicy dark sauce and crowned with peanuts and cilantro) and Matt Chu’s Special (shaved rice noodles, fried chicken, and seasonal vegetables in gingery white sauce) topping the menu’s flavor charts.

521 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-6121, kungfood. online. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Sat. MCC. $

GREAT TANG

Although the (24-page!) menu features classic dishes in every style, the specialty at Great Tang is the refined coastal cuisine of Zhejiang. If you like spice, you can get still the Sichuanese and Hunanese classics. One dish will hint at the surprises in store for people who are mainly used to Chinese takeout: the lovely Xian cold noodle. The dish is exquisitely layered: the creamy and nutty undertone of sesame paste, mixed with notes of tang and spice, topped with the bright pop of cilantro. The combination of textures is also delightful, with crunches of cucumber and sprouted mung and the softness of the flat noodles. And that tofu! It was wonderfully meaty, with dense layers, substantial and satisfying as a counterpart to the noodles. Be as brave as you are in the mood to be. Ask for some suggestions and prepare to be astonished.

7340 Kingsgate Way, West Chester, (513) 847-6097, greattangohio.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Mon, dim sum Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

ORIENTAL WOK

When Mike and Helen Wong opened Oriental Wok in 1977, the couple wanted to recreate the glamor and refinement of the Hong Kong-Cantonese cuisine they knew. Today, locals and expats alike enjoy authentic Chinese and Chinese-American dishes in dining rooms reminiscent of Beijing. Beyond the elephant tusk entryway and fish ponds and fountains is the warmth and hospitality of the Wong family, service on par with the finest establishments, and very, very good food. Best are the fresh fish: salmon, grouper and sea bass steamed, grilled or fried in a wok, needing little more than the ginger-green onion sauce that accompanies them. Oriental Wok is the tri-state’s longest-running family-owned Chinese restaurant for a reason.

317 Buttermilk Pke., Ft. Mitchell, (859) 331-3000; 2444 Madison Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 871-6888, orientalwok. com. Lunch Mon–Fri (Ft. Mitchell; buffet Sun 11–2:30), lunch Tues–Sat (Hyde Park), dinner Mon–Sat (Ft. Mitchell) dinner Tues–Sun (Hyde Park). MCC. $$

THE PACIFIC KITCHEN

The monster of a menu can be dizzying. Ease in with some top-notch Korean Wings. These slightly bubbly, shatter-crisp wings are painted with a thin gochujang chili sauce (a foil to the fat). It takes 24 hours to prep the Cantonese duck, between a honey-vinegar brine to dry the skin, a marinade of star anise, bean paste, and soy within the re-sealed cavity, and the crispy convection oven finish. Dolsot bibimbap had plenty of crispy rice at the bottom of the stone bowl, and the accompanying banchan were soothing yet flavorful. Even dishes like a Malaysian goat stew resonated with rich, original flavors.

8300 Market Place Lane, Montgomery, (513) 898-1833, thepacific.kitchen. Lunch and dinner Mon & Wed–Sun, dim sum lunch Sat & Sun. MCC. $$

SICHUAN BISTRO

Like many Chinese restaurants that cater to both mainstream American and Chinese palates, this strip mall gem uses two menus. The real story here is found in dishes of pungent multi-layered flavors that set your mouth ablaze with fermented peppers and fresh chilies and then just as quickly cool it down with the devilish, numbing sensation of hua jiao, Sichuan pepper. Its numbing effect is subtle at first: appetizers of cold sliced beef and tripe, as well as slices of pork belly with a profusion of minced garlic, lean toward the hot and sweet; mapo tofu freckled with tiny fermented black beans and scallions, and pork with pickled red peppers and strips of ginger root, progress from sweet to pungent to hot to salty—in that order. Alternated with cooling dishes—nibbles of rice, a verdant mound of baby bok choy stir-fried with a shovelful of garlic, refreshing spinach wilted in ginger sauce, a simply sensational tea-smoked duck—the effect is momentarily tempered.

7888 S. Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-3123, sichuanbistro.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

UNCLE YIP’S

Long before sushi somehow un-disgusted itself to the Western World, China had houses of dim sum. Uncle Yip’s valiantly upholds that tradition in Evendale. This is a traditional dim sum house with all manner of exotic dumplings, including shark fin or beef tripe with ginger and onion. As for the seafood part of the restaurant’s full name, Uncle Yip has most everything the sea has to offer, from lobster to mussels. The menu has more than 160 items, so you’ll find a range of favorites, from moo goo gai pan to rock salt frog legs.

10736 Reading Rd., Evendale, (513) 733-8484, uncleyips.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, discount for cash. $$

ECLECTIC

Top 10

ABIGAIL STREET

Most people who’ve eaten at Abigail Street have favorite dishes that they order every visit: the Moroccan spiced broccoli, for example, or the mussels charmoula, with its perfect balance of saffron, creaminess, and tomatoey acidity. Many of the new items on the menu have the same perfected feeling as these classics. Working within a loose framework of Middle Eastern and North African flavors, Abigail Street has never fallen into a routine that would sap its energy. Offerings like the lamb belly skewer with tzatziki and pickled shallots, feel just as accomplished as old favorites like the falafel, beautifully moist and crumbly with a bright parsley interior. The restaurant is always watching for what works and what will truly satisfy, ready to sacrifice the superficially interesting in favor of the essential.

1214 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-4040, abigailstreet.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

ALCOVE

Alcove lives up to its name, the embodiment of a green oasis at the corner of Vine and 14th streets. A lot of care goes into the space’s bright, floral design—it features more than 300 square feet of plant-covered “living walls,” which are pruned by their creator, Urban Blooms, on a weekly basis. Equal care and attention went goes into Alcove’s the seasonal farm-to-table menu. It’s an uncomplicated affair featuring exceptional-but-approachable dishes. As one might expect from a restaurant where plants cover most of the walls, vegetables are done very well here. The simple, clean pear and quark salad stands out as do the stuffed mushrooms. Like the produce, much of the meat is sourced from local and regional farms (for instance, the “Denver Cut” of steak— a lean cut, taken from the shoulder—comes from Sakura Farms in nearby Westerville, Ohio). Among other local vendors, Rich Life Farms, Urban Stead Cheese, and Eli Settler (a.k.a. “Eli the Farmer”) all contribute to Alcove’s menu. This is a restaurant that takes sustainability seriously, and sustainability has a funny way of going hand-in-hand with quality.

1410 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 371-5700, madtree. com/locations/alcove-bar-restaurant. Brunch Fri–Sun, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THE APERTURE

After several pandemic-related setbacks, Chef/ Owner Jordan Anthony-Brown opened his Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in Walnut Hills’s historic Paramount Square Building. And it was worth the wait. The restaurant’s seasonal menu draws on flavors from across the Mediterranean with subtle touches, such as its woodfired pita, elevated with za’atar seasoning and olive oil. The sublime charred carrots are served with Middle Eastern spice blends like dukkah and ras el hanout as well as mint and crumbles of lamb merguez sausage. Brined, poached, and cooked over coals, the carrots themselves eat like a tender smoked sausage. It’s a dish that perfectly encapsulates The Aperture’s commitment to serving substantial versions of traditionally lighter fare. For a restaurant so serious about food—and exceptional wines—it’s refreshing to see it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The original cocktails have offbeat names like #lemon and I’m Her, and the catchy playlist is heavy on old-school hip-hop. At heart, The Aperture is a neighborhood restaurant, albeit one that’s bound to bring people in from all over.

900 E. McMillan St., Walnut Hills, (513) 872-1970, theaperturecinci.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

ATWOOD OYSTER HOUSE

While Atwood has done an excellent job of working closely with coastal purveyors to curate a focused but eclectic selection of oysters, the rest of its menu consists of southern coastal cuisine prepared with rigorous French technique. The wild-caught fish is as fresh and deliberately sourced as the eponymous oysters, and grilled shrimp with Calabrian chili and arugula. The modern, clean-lined space, adorned with busts and oil paintings (curated with the help of neighborhood artist Alex Frank) matches the elegant food. It’s stately without being stuffy; it somehow feels both timeless and hip. Like everything else at Atwood, it’s the result of a delicate, highly successful balancing act.

1220 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4256, atwoodoysterhouse.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC. $$

Top 10

BOCA

With its grand staircase, chandelier, and floorto-ceiling draperies, Boca has an atmosphere of grandeur and refinement. There is a sense of drama not only in the decor but in everything it serves. In some dishes, there is a painterly sense of contrast and surprise, like the maple tuile served with the maple mascarpone cheesecake. In others, there is a dramatic suspense, like the whole egg yolk quivering in the center of the beef tartare waiting to be broken. While staying mostly grounded in the fundamentals of Italian and French cuisine, Boca has an air of international sophistication that sets its food apart. The hamachi crudo, an old standby on the menu, takes Japanese flavors and gives them new dimensions with grapefruit suprêmes and slivers of shishito pepper. This is food of extraordinary creativity and flair.

114 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 542-2022, bocacincinnati.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

Top 10 BOUQUET RESTAURANT

Normally diners aren’t pleased when a restaurant runs out of something. At Bouquet, though, surprise changes to the menu are simply a sign of integrity. Chefowner Stephen Williams is serious about using seasonal ingredients, and if the figs have run out or there is no more chicken from a local farm, so be it. The flavors at Bouquet are about doing justice to what’s available. Preparations are unfussy, complexity coming from within the vegetables and proteins themselves. A spring salad—wonderfully fresh and vibrant, so you know the strawberries included have just come off a nearby vine—is dressed with candy-striped beets, jerk-seasoned pepitas and whipped goat cheese. This determination to make something delicious out of what’s on hand, to embrace limitations, gives the food at Bouquet a rustic, soulful quality.

519 Main St., Covington, (859) 491-7777, bouquetbistro. com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

CHÉ

This spot draws on authentic Argentine recipes, including the empanadas. Choose from a dozen different crispy, perfectly cinched dough pockets, with fillings ranging from traditional (a mixture of cumin-spiced beef, hard-boiled

egg, and olives) to experimental (mushrooms, feta, green onion, and mozzarella). There are also six different dipping sauces to choose from, but you need not stray from the house chimichurri.

1342 Walnut St., Over-the-Rhine; 2038 Madison Rd., O’Bryonville, (513) 345-8838, checincinnati.com. Lunch Tues–Sun, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. V, MCC, DC, AMEX. $$

CROWN REPUBLIC GASTROPUB

What makes Crown Republic special isn’t its handful of outstanding dishes. It’s the place’s sheer consistency. No single dish is absolutely mindblowing or completely original, but when almost everything that comes out is genuinely tasty, the service is always friendly and attentive, and (stop the presses!) the bill is quite a bit less than you expected, you sit up and pay attention. The crab and avocado toast, served on toasted bread with lime juice and slivers of pickled Fresno chiles, is a prime example of what makes Crown Republic tick. The cocktails are equally unfussy and good, like the Tequila Honey Bee, made with tequila reposado, honey thyme syrup, lemon, bitters, and mezcal rinse, which adds a smoky kick.

720 Sycamore St., downtown, (513) 2464272, crownrepublicgastropub.com. Lunch and dinner Wed–Sun. Brunch Sat & Sun. V, MC, DS, AMEX. $$

FIVE ON VINE

The fifth venture from Anthony Sitek and wife Haley Nutter-Sitek’s Crown Restaurant Group, Five on Vine achieves excitement through comfort food with meticulous attention to detail: the meat is butchered in-house, the bread and pasta are made from scratch, and the bacon is house-cured. House-butchered beef and house-made pasta come together beautifully in the pappardelle stroganoff, served with chunks of short rib that are as tender as the noodles themselves. Thick, cleanly acidic fried green tomatoes make an appearance, as does a bountiful cioppino, a tomato-based seafood stew created by Italian American fisherman in San Francisco. Some of the dishes are pulled straight from Sitek’s own childhood, in New Jersey. “Gracie’s Meatballs,” named in honor of his grandmother, use her unique blend of raisins and pine nuts. A love letter to the longbeloved dishes, the menu is an extended rebuttal against the tired argument that American food is bland and boring.

1324 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4301, fiveonvine.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$

THE GOVERNOR

This Milford restaurant playfully elevates diner classics. Breakfast is available all day so if you’re looking to greet the morning with decadence, try the Madame Rangoon, a thick slab of brioche toast smothered in crab whipped cream cheese and eggs. Sandwiches also get an inventive twist here. The “Governor Tso’s chicken”—a crispy, gluten-free fried chicken breast glazed with a General Tso’s–inspired sauce, topped with apricot slaw and served on a toasted brioche bun—is a gigantic, happy mess of a sandwich, but the sweet glaze faintly evokes the namesake “General” while letting the sublimely fried chicken lead the charge.

Order a side of bowling alley fries and ask for the red dip. (You’ll thank us later.)

231 Main St., Milford, (513) 239-8298, governordiner.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sun. Breakfast and lunch Sun. Brunch seven days. MCC. $

MAPLEWOOD KITCHEN

At Maplewood, you order at the counter, then find a table, and a server will deliver what you’ve selected. There’s no cohesive cuisine, rather, the menu takes its cue from all corners of the globe: chilaquiles, guajillo chicken are all represented, along with the satisfying Maplewood hash with goetta and local mushrooms. Brunch is available all day so try the light lemon ricotta pancakes or the shakshuka.

525 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-2100, maplewoodkitchenandbar.com. Breakfast and lunch seven days. MCC. $$

MELT REVIVAL

In this Northside sandwich joint, the restaurant’s name pretty much dictates what you should get. Diners have their choice of sandwiches, including the vegetarian cheesesteak—seitan (a meat substitute) topped with roasted onions, peppers, and provolone—and The Gobbler, turkey burger served with curried aioli, red cabbage slaw, pickled red onions, and arugula. For those who require meat in their meals, try the verde chicken flatbread: juicy pieces of chicken intermingle with pesto, zucchini, and provolone. Not sure you’ll want a whole sandwich? Try a half-sandwich with a halfsalad or half-soup order—a popular selection with the lunch crowd.

4100 Hamilton Ave., Northside, (513) 8188951, meltrevival.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues—Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

TOP ’ZA

Il Gusto Pizza & Pasta in Deer Park and Two Cities Pizza Company in Mason recently made Yelp’s “Top 100 Pizza Spots in the Midwest 2024” list. The website ranked the pizza joints based on several factors, including relevant keyword searches, review ratings, and total volume. yelp.com/article/top100-pizza-spotsin-the-midwest

TUESDAY NOVEMBER 5 - SUNDAY JANUARY 5

A creation of ideas built around LED light with a gentle splash of whimsical holiday lights.

MINI GOLF

We will have 9 mini golf holes open which are included with your ticket price to the woods.

ENCLOSED PATIO STRUCTURE

The covered patio will be enclosed by the end of October and will serve as an indoor dining option and part of a sound and projection installation for the Lighted Forest Walk.

TICKETS MUST BE PURCHASED IN ADVANCE

Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday is open ticketing. Friday and Saturday is timed ticketing. The Lighted Forest will be closed on Monday.

ACRES WALKABLE MENU + FULL BAR

Walkable food options including: Barbacoa Walking Taco, Beer Bacon Mac N’ Cheese, BBQ Sunday, Buffalo Chicken Rollups, plus kids favorites including Cheeseburgers, Hot Dogs, Chicken Tenders and the addition of Mac N’ Cheese.

Please call 513.733.1100 or email todd@acrescincinnati.com

METROPOLE

Metropole has been remarkably stable since it opened in 2012. Even when chefs have left, the organization has promoted from within, kept popular dishes on the menu, and maintained a certain vibe, a balance between sophistication and rusticity. Its vegetarian fare contains many of its most inventive and delightful creations. The seared salmon is served with miso wild rice, asparagus, pickled bok choy, and sesame seeds. The blistered shishitos, served with burrata and preserved lemon, encapsulates Metropole at its best: fun and whimsical, but rooted in careful execution of deep and satisfying flavors.

609 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 578-6660, metropoleonwalnut.com. Breakfast Wed–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. V, DS, MC, AMEX. $$

Top 10 MITA’S

It’s fitting that Chef/Owner Jose Salazar named this restaurant after his grandmother, because there is something deeply homey about the food at Mita’s. With a focus on Spanish and Latin-American tapas, it always feels, in the best possible way, like elevated home cooking. Its sophistication is modestly concealed. The flavors are bold and direct, whether the spicy freshness of the ceviche de camarones with passionfruit leche de tigre or the intensely bright sourness of the pozole verde. The tacos de barriga de cerdo, which come in pairs, are made with fried pork belly, citrus gastrique, habanero slaw, huitalacoche mayo, and are served on house-made corn tortillas. But what mainly comes through is the warm-hearted affection a grandmother might have put into a meal for a beloved grandson. It’s the kind of big hug everyone needs from time to time.

501 Race St., downtown, (513) 421-6482, mitas.co.

Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$

NICHOLSON’S

To remind local diners that they were here before those young dog-toting punks with their exposed brick and crafty

ales in Over-the-Rhine, Nicholson’s branded themselves Cincinnati’s “first and finest gastropub,” and revamped the menu to include plenty of snacks and small plates for grazing, and not-quite-brawny, straightforward sandwiches and main dishes. Try the Faroe Island salmon, a bowl of cock-a-leekie soup, or check out the shepherd’s or BBQ bacon-style burgers or the turkey reuben with Russian dressing. And the bar’s clubby intimacy makes it easy to belly up and enjoy the impressive collection of single malts or a Scottish ale.

625 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 564-9111, nicholsonspub.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $$

NOLIA

Chef/Owner Jeffery Harris, a New Orleans native, prepares the cuisine of his beloved city with sophistication and flair, drawing on all the influences that have contributed to the cuisine of the Big Easy—from West African to French to Japanese to Haitian. The menu changes seasonally, with almost a complete overhaul each time. If classic New Orleans dishes do show up on the menu, they’re likely to get delightfully unexpected touches. The smoked chicken, for example, comes with peach Alabama barbecue sauce, greens, mirliton, and charred peach. It’s exquisitely prepared food served in a funky, laid-back atmosphere.

1405 Clay St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 384-3597, noliakitchen.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC,DC. $$$

OPAL

Opal’s hip-ly minimal menu (many of the dishes have one syllable names like “Duck” or “Fish”) centers around the restaurant’s wood-fired, 88-inch grill. You can taste the grill’s handiwork on the “Cauliflower” appetizer, which also comes with citrus supremes, fennel pollen (a potent and rather pricey spice), salsa brava (a smoky Mediterranean sauce, not to be confused with the ubiquitous Latin American salsa), feta, and almonds. For the

duck, the kiss of flame locks in the juices while a medley of blackberry, peanut, chow chow, and jus add the sweetness that one expects to flavor a good game bird. According to Owner Bill Whitlow, Opal’s menu started small as the team figured out which dishes worked best with its signature grill. The selections, like the restaurant, have continued to grow, so you can expect tweaks and seasonal changes to a menu this committed to fresh meat and produce.

535 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 261-0629, opalrooftop.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DC. $$$

THE QUARTER BISTRO

Quarter Bistro has multiple personalities: one part clubby neighborhood joint, one part dinner and a movie with a dash of lusty romance. The Bistro Burger, a half-pound of black Angus beef, is seasoned but not overly so, with a sturdy-but-not-too-chewy bun. The 18-hour short ribs are the star, and reason enough to skip the movie next door. Braised into a flavor bomb of meat candy, it’s served with pappardelle pasta, roasted vegetables, and onion straws. With the no-lip service, The Quarter Bistro could be well on the way to making middle age look sexy.

6904 Wooster Pke., Mariemont, (513) 271-5400, qbcincy.com. Dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

RUTH’S PARKSIDE CAFÉ

The spiritual successor of Mullane’s Parkside Café, Ruth’s brings back the vegetable-forward menu with a few concessions to contemporary tastes. Dinner options now include steaks and heavier entrées. But the stir-fries, beans and rice, pasta, and the traditional option to add a protein to an entrée (tofu, tempeh, chicken, or local chorizo) for an upcharge are all old standards. While dishes are generally hearty, they are rarely too rich, leaving room to freely consider dessert. There is a small selection of baked goods, including a gooey butter cake, homemade fruit pies, and Madisono’s Gelato.

1550 Blue Rock St., Northside, (513) 542-7884, ruthscafe.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. $$

SENATE

Ever since it began dishing out its lo-fi eats, Chef Dan Wright’s gastropub has been operating at a velocity few can match. From the howl and growl of supremely badass hot dogs to the palate-rattling poutine, Senate has led the charge in changing the local conventional wisdom about what makes a great restaurant. Consumption of mussels charmoula means either ordering additional grilled bread to soak up every drop of the herby, saffron-laced broth or drinking the remainder straight from the bowl and perfectly crisped and seasoned truffle fries inspire countless return visits.

1100 Summit Place Dr., Blue Ash, (513) 769-0099, senateblueash.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DS. $

TASTE OF BELGIUM

Jean-François Flechet’s waffle empire grew from a back counter of Madison’s grocer y at Findlay Market to multiple full-service sit-down spots. There’s more on the menu than the authentic Belgian treat, though it would be a crime to miss the chicken and waffles: a dense, yeasty waffle topped with a succulent buttermilk fried chicken breast, Frank’s hot sauce, and maple syrup. There are also frites, of course, and Brussels sprouts—served with pancetta and sherry vinaigrette—plus a gem of a Bolognese. And let’s not forget the beer. Six rotating taps offer some of the best the Belgians brew, not to mention those made in town.

1135 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 396-5800, and other locations, authenticwaffle.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tues–Sun, breakfast and lunch Mon, brunch Sun. MCC, DS. $$

20 BRIX

This restaurant mixes Mediterranean influences with homespun choices, and he comes up with some marvelous food. Lamb meatballs with melted onions and romesco sauce are sweet and peppery, and their simplicity partners well with a lush Zinfandel. The excellent wine list, arranged by flavor profiles within the varietals, features dozens of varieties by the glass in five-ounce or two-ounce pours, which makes it easy to try several.

101 Main St., Milford, (513) 831-2749, 20brix.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS, DC. $$

TERANGA

West African cuisine consists of mostly simple, home-style dishes of stews and grilled lamb with just enough of the exotic to offer a glimpse of another culture. Be prepared for a few stimulating sights and flavors that warm from within. An entire grilled tilapia—head and all—in a peppery citrus marinade and served on plantains with a side of Dijon-coated cooked onions is interesting enough to pique foodie interest without overwhelming the moderate eater. Stews of lamb or chicken with vegetables and rice are a milder bet, and Moroccan-style couscous with vegetables and mustard sauce accompanies most items. The dining room atmosphere is extremely modest with most of the action coming from the constant stream of carryout orders.

8438 Vine St., Hartwell, (513) 821-1300, terangacinci. com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC. $

YUCA

Yuca is in The Fairfield’s former space, retaining much of the same modern, airy, and inviting café vibes with a neighborhood feel, but boasting a menu certainly worth a commute. In the mood for a hearty breakfast? Indulge in the Fat Zach, a heaping corn gordita packed to the brim with chicken, chorizo, and scrambled egg, served with avocado, pineapple pico, and sweet and spicy potatoes. There’s a full drink menu ranging from coffee to Bloody Marys—or a selection of margaritas and palomas if you’re

looking to stick around.

700 Fairfield Ave., Bellevue, (859) 360-0110, yucabycedar.com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

FRENCH

CHEZ RENÉE FRENCH BISTROT

Based on American stereotypes of French food—that it’s elaborate, elitist, and expensive—one might expect Chez Renée to fall on the chichi side. Instead, it’s elegant in an everyday way, operating on the principle that it is better to excel at simplicity than to badly execute something complicated. The formula is not complex: Simple ingredients, generally fresh and from nearby, prepared without much fuss. Warmed brie is served with thyme, almonds, fruit, and bread, and the chicken risotto is served with creamy mushrooms. This is solid, tasty food, both approachable and well-executed. It’s well on its way to becoming, as a good bistrot should be, a neighborhood institution.

233 Main St., Milford, (513) 428-0454, chezreneefrenchbistrot.com. Lunch Fri & Sat, dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

COLETTE

At his new “mostly French” restaurant Colette, which occupies the former Zula space across from Washington Park, Chef Danny Combs has built a more laidback home for his focused, pristine cooking. While there is classic bistro fare, like steak frites, on the concentrated menu, there are also less familiar but equally classic French dishes, like Brandade de Morue (a silky emulsion of whipped salt cod served with rustic bread) and the savory puff pastry known as Vol-au-Vent. One can turn to the extensive drink menu (also “mostly French”) to find

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a wine or cocktail to go with any dish on offer. Like Zula, Colette would function just fine as a wine and cocktail bar, though we can’t imagine coming to a place this good and not eating something.

1400 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 381-1018, coletteotr.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC. $$

FRENCH CRUST

Located in the old Globe Furniture building at the corner of Elm and Elder Streets, this Jean-Robert de Cavel creation offers French fare in the heart of Over-the-Rhine. Swing by for lunch and have a quiche Lorraine (French Crust’s quiches are unrivaled in our humble opinion) and an avocado and shrimp salad, or opt for a more hearty entree—like cassoulet—for dinner. If you’re an early bird, a Croque Monsieur (with a sunny side-up egg) is a great way to start the day. 1801 Elm St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 455-3720, frenchcrustcafe.com. Breakfast and lunch Wed–Sun, dinner Thurs–Sat. MCC. $$

Top 10 LE BAR A BOEUF

If it’s been a couple of years since you’ve been to Le Bar a Boeuf—the late Jean-Robert de Cavel’s fun-yet-refined French bistro located on the first floor of the Edgecliff Private Residences in East Walnut Hills—it may be time for a revisit. The formerly burger-centric menu now approaches the full repertoire of bistro classics. The menu reads like a greatest hits list of bistro fare, with escargot, beef tartare, duck leg confit, steak frites, and French onion soup all making appearances. As France’s influence on American fine dining has waned, it’s refreshing to see a restaurant committed to not only preserving the French classics but reinvigorating them.

2200 Victory Pkwy., East Walnut Hills, (513) 751-2333, lebarboeuf.com. Dinner Wed–Sat. MCC. $$

LUCA BISTRO

Luca Bistro opened in October 2022, but it feels like it has been around for decades. The unabashedly

French restaurant, with its French posters, bright red outer paneling, and chalkboard menu proclaiming its specials to passersby, fits into its Mt. Adams environs so perfectly that it’s hard to imagine Hatch Street without it. That, combined with warm service, timeless French fare, and relaxed joie de vivre makes this a true neighborhood establishment. Chef Frederic Maniet grew up in the south of France and has done an excellent job transporting his native cuisine to a quiet corner of Cincinnati. These are the dishes that culinary Francophiles often crave, prepared in a straightforward, time-honored way. The Bouchées à la Reine, a buttery, flaky puff pastry filled with chicken, mushrooms, peas, Gruyèere cheese, and béchamel sauce, is so warm and comforting it makes chicken pot pie seem aloof by comparison. It’s a warm, gentle reminder that French food can be convivial and affordable. 934 Hatch St., Mt. Adams, (513) 621-5822, lucabistro.com. Breakfast and lunch Tues–Sun, dinner Tues–Sat. MCC. $$

INDIAN

AMMA’S KITCHEN

Muthu Kumar Muthiah serves traditional southern Indian and Indo-Chinese vegetarian cuisine, but with a sizable Orthodox Jewish community nearby, Muthiah saw an opportunity: If he was going to cook vegetarian, why not also make it kosher? Muthiah prepares every item—from the addictively crunchy gobhi Manchurian, a spicy Chinese cauliflower dish, to the lemon pickle, tamarind, and mint sauces—entirely from scratch under the careful eye of Rabbi Michoel Stern. Always 80 percent vegan, the daily lunch buffet is 100 percent animal-product-free on Wednesdays. Tuck into a warm and savory channa masala (spiced chickpeas) or malai kofta (vegetable dumplings in tomato sauce) from the curry menu. Or tear into a crispy, two-foot diameter dosa (chickpea flour crepe) stuffed with spiced onions and potatoes.

7633 Reading Rd., Roselawn, (513) 821-2021, cincinnati.

ammaskitchen.com. Lunch buffet Mon–Fri (all vegan on Wed), dinner seven days. MC, V, DS. $

BRIJ MOHAN

Order at the counter the way you might at a fast food joint, except the shakes come in mango and there’s no supersizing your mint lassi. The saag, full of cream in most northern Indian restaurants, is as intensely flavored as collard greens in the Deep South—real Punjabi soul food. Tarka dal is spectacular here, the black lentils smoky from charred tomatoes and onions, and the pani puri, hollow fried shells into which you spoon a peppery cold broth, burst with tart cool crunch. Follow the spice with soothing ras malai, freshly made cheese simmered in thick almond-flavored milk, cooled and sprinkled with crushed pistachios.

11259 Reading Rd., Sharonville, (513) 769-4549, brijmohancincinnati.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MC, V, DC, AMEX. $

ITALIAN

A TAVOLA

In 2011, Jared Wayne opened A Tavola Pizza with two friends just as OTR was blowing up. A Ferrara pizza oven was ordered from Italy; Wayne, a skilled woodworker, built custom tables; and the menu was fleshed in with trendy crowd-pleasers like charcuterie and craft cocktails. Fast-forward a decade. The OTR outpost is closed but the second location is still going strong in the ’burbs: A Tavola Madeira capitalizes on the menu from the Vine Street location, including the fresh and zesty artichoke pizza on a Neapolitan crust; gooey mozzarella-filled arancini, or risotto fritters; and the zucchini mozzarella. Wash down your small plates with a glass of crisp and grassy Sannio falanghina or an ice-cold Rhinegeist. They’re definitely going to need a bigger parking lot.

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Washington Square (937) 434-1294 DOROTHYLANE.COM

7022 Miami Ave., Madeira, (513) 272-0192, atavolapizza.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. V, DC, MS, AMEX. $

AL-POSTO

Al-Posto is an upscale southern Italian spot that reflects the same commitment to quality ingredients and delicate preparation that made its predecessor Dear such a gem. Appetizers include classic sharables like marinated olives (prepared with orange zest, rosemary, and Calabrian chile), burrata with grilled focaccia, and coppa (a cured pork served with preserved peppers and almonds), but it’s the pasta (which can be ordered as an entrée or a first course) that’s not to be missed. We recommend the Cacio e Pepe, a seemingly simple dish comprised of bucatini (similar to spaghetti, but thicker), black pepper, and a sharp pecorino Toscano. Since you’re probably wondering, “Al-Posto” roughly translates to “at the spot.” Located in the middle of Hyde Park Square, this eatery seems poised to become the culinary focal point of the neighborhood. 2710 Erie Ave., Hyde Park, (513) 321-2710, al-posto.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DC, DS. $$

FORNO

Cristian Pietoso’s second restaurant has all the bones of an upscale eatery, but the menu is infused with enough Italian soul to make nonna proud. In most instances, raving about a side of creamed corn wouldn’t bode well for the rest of the menu. Here, that side dish—kernels swimming in a pool of truffle-laced heavy cream that demands sopping up—is evidence that each component is purpose-driven. The red wine–braised honeycomb tripe, which carries a warning label (“Don’t be scared!”), and the tagliatelle bolognese with traditional beef and veal sauce are examples of the elevated, adventurous comfort food that Pietoso strives for. 3514 Erie Ave., East Hyde Park, (513) 818-8720, fornoosteriabar.com. Dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $$

Top 10

NICOLA’S

Chef/Restaurateur Cristian Pietoso carries on the legacy of his father, Nicola, as the elder Pietoso’s Over-the-Rhine eatery celebrated 25 years in business in 2021. You can still get the old Italian classics, and they’ll be as good as ever, but the rest of the menu has blossomed into a freewheeling tour of modern American cuisine. Any establishment paying this level of attention to detail—from the aged balsamic and lavender honey on the Italian cheese board to the staff’s wine knowledge—is going to put out special meals. Rarely have humble insalate been so intricately delicious, between the non-traditional summer gazpacho, filled with crab, zucchini, peaches, and squash, or the balance of the tangy, salty, and citrusy Siciliana salad. Order an old favorite, by all means, but make sure you try something new, too.

1420 Sycamore St., Pendleton, (513) 721-6200, nicolasotr.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

PADRINO

Billed as “Italian comfort food,” this sister restaurant to 20 Brix offers the classics (like lasagna and chicken carbonara) plus hoagies and meatball sliders, an impressive wine list, seasonal martinis, and a decadent signature appetizer—garlic knots, doughy buns smothered in olive oil and garlic. Best of all, Barraco’s pizza sauce, which is comprised of roasted tomatoes and basil, is so garden-fresh that one can’t help but wonder: If this is real pizza, what have we been eating all these years?

111 Main St., Milford, (513) 965-0100; 14 N. Grand Ave. Ft Thomas, (859) 957-4082, padrinoitalian.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

PEPP & DOLORES

As with all of Thunderdome’s restaurants, you get a sense that they want to deliver a meal that satisfies many different kinds of people. The prices are reasonable, with pasta entrées about $15. The dishes are familiar in their flavors,

but everything feels balanced, modulated and gradually perfected. There is lovely variety: the limone pasta is zippy with lemon and chili flakes, and just the right mixture of tart and creamy; the deep meaty flavors on the mushroom toast are balanced with a nice acidity; and the heat in dishes like the eggplant involtini is just enough to wake up the sauce without overwhelming the flavor. The menu has a wealth of excellent vegetarian and pasta-alternative options.

1501 Vine St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 419-1820, peppanddolores.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

PRIMAVISTA

Besides offering the old-world flavors of Italy, Primavista also serves up a specialty no other restaurant can match: a bird’s eye view of Cincinnati from the west side. The kitchen is equally comfortable with northern and southern regional specialties: a Venetian carpaccio of paper-thin raw beef sparked by fruity olive oil; house-made fresh mozzarella stuffed with pesto and mushrooms; or artichoke hearts with snails and mushrooms in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce from Lombardy. Among the classics, nothing is more restorative than the pasta e fagioli, a hearty soup of cannellini, ditali pasta, and bacon. Most of the pastas are cooked just a degree more mellow than al dente so that they soak up the fragrant tomato basil or satiny cream sauces. The forktender osso buco Milanese, with its marrow-filled center bone and salty-sweet brown sauce (marinara and lemon juice), is simply superb. Desserts present further problems; you’ll be hard-pressed to decide between the house-made tiramisu or bread pudding with caramel sauce, marsalasoaked raisins, and cream.

810 Matson Pl., Price Hill, (513) 251-6467, pvista.com. Dinner Wed–Sun. MCC, DC, DS. $$

SOTTO

Top 10

There are certain books and movies that you can read or watch over and over. Eating at Sotto is a similar experience: familiar, but so profound and satisfying that there is no reason to ever stop. Unlike other restaurants, where the techniques are often elaborate and unfamiliar, the magic at Sotto happens right in front of you, using ordinary elements and methods. When you taste the results, though, you realize that some mysterious transmutation has taken place. The wood-fired branzino with zucchini, matched with the warm, smoky taste of the Calabrian pepper, offers a flavor that you could go on eating forever. From the texture of the chicken liver mousse to the citrusy lemon aioli on the tartare di fassone, most of the food has some added element of soulfulness.

118 E. Sixth St., downtown, (513) 822-5154, sottocincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$

SUBITO

Focusing on Northern Italian cuisine, Subito carves out its own worthwhile place in the landscape. Most of the items on the menu—from pizza to various pastas—will be familiar, but there are delightful surprises, like the lion’s mane lumache. This citrusy dish is served on lumache pasta and cooked with scallions, garlic, shallots, chili, brodo, and pecorino. Everything at Subito is done with intelligence and a light touch.

311 Pike St., downtown, (513) 579-3860, thelytleparkhotel.com/dining/subito. Breakfast and lunch Mon–Fri, dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

VIA VITE

Via Vite serves up crowd-pleasing entrées, including the Pietoso family Bolognese, over penne, right on Fountain Square. (Add in a golf-ball-sized veal meatball heavy with lemon zest, and it’s an over-the-top comforting main dish.) The same applies to the risotto, where a few small touches add sophistication. Carnaroli rice results in a glossier, starchier dish. A puree of asparagus turns the risotto an eye-popping green, and the poached lobster garnish creates a nice back-and-forth between vegetal and briny flavors. Braised lamb shank over polenta is comforting workhorse, and the flavorful Faroe Island salmon with roasted carrot puree, caramelized Brussel sprouts and truffled brown butter balsamic vinaigrette.

520 Vine St., downtown, (513) 721-8483, viaviterestaurant.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DS. $$

JAPANESE

ANDO

You don’t go just anywhere to dine on uni sashimi (sea urchin) or tanshio (thinly sliced charcoal-grilled beef tongue). Don’t miss the creamy béchamel sauce cooked in the panko breaded and fried croquettes, or the buttery amberjack collar marinated in a Japanese citrus infused soy sauce and grilled over charcoal. Noodles are also well represented, with udon, soba, or ramen options available. And don’t forget to ask about the specials; owners Ken and Keiko Ando always have something new, be it kamo negi maki (grilled duck breast stuffed with organic green onions) or a chocolate crepe and matcha parfait, delicacies that you’ll be hard-pressed to find in anywhere else. The only thing you won’t find here is sake, or any other alcohol. Bring your own, or stick to the nutty and outright addicting barley tea.

11255 Reed Hartman Hwy., Blue Ash, (513) 954-0041, andojapaneserestaurant.com. Dinner Tues–Sat. MCC, DS. $$$

BARU

Baru, the sleek izakaya in the former MidiCi space, prioritizes bar dining, which is meant to be enjoyed alongside its eclectic drinks list. The menu is broken down into drinks, sushi, “small plates,” “plates,” sides, and ishiyaki. Start with clever cocktail offerings, like the Japanese Highball (which uses Japanese whiskey), the Sake-tini, or the sweetly spicy Wasabi Margarita. Baru’s sushi offerings are—like the rest of the menu—fun and funky. The sushi menu is varied, but concise, featuring a trio of ahi tuna, spicy tuna, and escolar, as well as a quail egg nigiri. If sushi got the party going, the theatrical ishiyaki kicked it into high gear. The term refers to dishes that diners grill tableside on a hot stone, such as the prime New York strip. For all its convivial buzz, Baru is also a spot where solo diners can enjoy a few peaceful bar-side bites. The Crispy Rice Spicy Tuna from the small plates section brought the same level of freshness and quality as the rest of the menu. Sometimes it pays to dine alone. 595 Race St., downtown, (513) 246-0150, barusushi. com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$

Top 10

KIKI

Kiki started as a pop-up at Northside Yacht Club, then leapt into brick-and-mortar life in College Hill’s bustling business district. Your best bet here is to share plates, or simply order too much, starting with the edamame; it comes either salted or tossed in tare, a savory dipping sauce. Add the karaage fried chicken, with the Jordy mayo and the oroshi ponzu, confit chicken on spaghetti and rice that somehow works. And, yes, the ramen, too. The shio features pork belly and tea-marinated soft-boiled egg, but the kimchi subs in tofu and its namesake cabbage for the meat.

5932 Hamilton Ave., College Hill, (513) 541-0381, kikicincinnati.com. Lunch Sun and dinner Wed–Sun. MCC, DS. $

KYOTO

Owner Jason Shi seems to know everybody’s name as he chats up diners, guiding them through the extensive sushi and sashimi menu. Five young sushi chefs, all part of Shi’s family, work at light speed behind the bar, a choreography backlit by rows of gleaming liquor bottles. Dinner proceeds with glorious chaos as a feisty Carla Tortelli–like server delivers one dish after another—combination of crab, fish, shrimp, scallop, and vegetable tempuras, a volcanic tower of chopped fatty tuna hidden inside overlapping layers of thin avocado slices, crispy chicken katsu with a mayo sauce,, and delicate slices of a samurai roll—all between shots of chilled sake.

12082 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Twp., (513) 583-8897, kyotousa.m988.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$

ZUNDO RAMEN & DONBURI

A stark contrast to Styrofoam cup soup, chef Han Lin’s ramens are a deep and exciting branch of cuisine, capable of subtlety, variation, and depth. The simplicity of the dish’s name hides a world of complexity. Zundo uses the

traditional Japanese building blocks of flavor—soy sauce, miso, sake, mirin—to create something freewheeling and time-tested. Bowls of ramen come with a marinated soft-boiled egg half, roast pork, green onion, and a healthy serving of noodles. Each has a distinct identity, like the milky richness of the tonkotsu, the rich and buttery miso, or the light and faintly sweet shoyu ramen. A transformative add-in is the mayu, or black garlic oil. Dripped on top of one of the subtler broths, it adds a deep, mushroom-y richness, with the hint of burned flavor that makes barbecue so good.

220 W. 12th St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 9750706, zundootr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

KOREAN

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RIVERSIDE KOREAN RESTAURANT

Come for the jham bong—a seafood soup with flour noodles in a spicy broth with pork, shrimp, squid, mussels, and vegetables. Revered for its medicinal properties, the dinner-sized soup will leave your eyes glistening and your brow beaded with sweat. It’s a detox for your overindulgence, rejuvenation for when you’re feeling under the weather. Expect crowds on weekends. Expect too, that dozens of them have come for dolsot bibimbap, the hot stone pots filled with layers of rice, vegetables, meat or tofu, egg, and chili paste. Characterized by its electric color and addictive flavors, Riverside Korean’s version is a captivating bowl of heaven.

512 Madison Ave., Covington, (859) 291-1484, riversidekoreanrestaurant.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

MEDITERRANEAN

ANDY’S MEDITERRANEAN GRILLE

In this lively joint with a burnished summer lodge interior of wood and stone, even the food is unrestrained: rough-cut chunks of charbroiled beef tenderloin, big slices of onion and green pepper turned sweet and wet in the heat, skewers of marinated and charbroiled chicken perched on rice too generous for its plate.

906 Nassau St., Walnut Hills, (513) 281-9791, andyskabob.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

Top

10 PHOENICIAN TAVERNA

No matter how much restraint you go in with, meals at Phoenician Taverna quickly become feasts. There is just too much that’s good, and everything is meant to be shared. With fresh pita bread continuously arriving from the ovens, and a table of quickly multiplying meze (hummus, falafel, muhammara), there is a warmth and depth to the cooking that envelops you. With such traditional cuisine, you may think there isn’t much left to discover beyond simply executed classics prepared according to time-tested methods. But there are always new discoveries as the flavors mingle from plate to plate: the tabbouleh with the hummus, mixed with a touch of harissa, or the smoky baba ghanoush spooned onto falafel. Phoenician Taverna keeps taking these classics a little further. 7944 Mason Montgomery Rd., Mason, (513) 770-0027, phoeniciantaverna.com. Lunch Tues–Fri, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

SANTORINI

Steak, eggs, and home fries. Jumbo haddock sandwich with Greek fries. Chocolate chip hot-

cakes with bacon. Notice something wrong with this menu? Chicken Philly cheese steak sandwich with Olympic onion rings. Yep, it’s obvious: What’s wrong with this menu is that there’s nothing wrong with this menu. Greek feta cheese omelette with a side of ham. It’s been owned by the same family for more than 30 years. Santorini has diner standards, like cheeseburgers, chili five ways, and breakfast anytime, but they also make some Greek pastries in-house, like spanakopita and baklava.

3414 Harrison Ave., Cheviot, (513) 662-8080. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sat, breakfast and lunch Sun. Cash. $

SEBASTIAN’S

When the wind is just right, you can smell the meat roasting from a mile away. Watch the rotating wheels of beef and lamb, and you understand how Greek food has escaped the American tendency to appropriate foreign cuisines. Sebastian’s specializes in gyros, shaved off the stick, wrapped in thick griddle pita with onions and tomatoes, and served with cool tzatziki sauce. Whether you’re having a crisp Greek salad with house-made dressing, triangles of spanakopita, or simply the best walnut and honey baklava this side of the Atlantic, they never misses a beat, turning more covers in the tiny restaurant on one Saturday afternoon than some restaurants do in an entire weekend.

5209 Glenway Ave., Price Hill, (513) 471-2100, sebastiansgyros.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. MCC. DS. $

MEXICAN

EL VALLE VERDE

Guests with dietary issues, high anxiety, and no Spanish may take a pass, but for hardy souls, this taqueria delivers a memorable evening. Seafood dishes are the star here—ceviche tostadas, crisp corn tortillas piled high with pico de gallo, avocado, and lime-tastic bits of white fish, squid, and crab; the oversized goblet of cocktel campechano, with ample poached shrimp crammed into a Clamato-heavy gazpacho; and simmering sopa de marisco came with langoustines, mussels, crab legs, and an entire fish—enough to feed three. 6717 Vine St., Carthage, (513) 821-5400, Lunch and dinner seven days. $

MAZUNTE

Mazunte runs a culinary full-court press, switching up specials to keep both regulars and staff engaged. Pork tamales arrive swaddled in a banana leaf, the shredded pork filling steeped in a sauce fiery with guajillo and ancho chilies yet foiled by the calming sweetness of raisins. The fried fish tacos are finished with a citrusy red and white cabbage slaw that complements the accompanying mangohabañero salsa. With this level of authentic yet fast-paced execution, a slightly greasy pozole can be easily forgiven. Don’t miss the Mexican Coke, the margaritas, or the non-alcoholic horchata. 5207 Madison Rd., Madisonville, (513) 7850000, mazuntetacos.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, brunch Sun. MCC. $

NADA

The brains behind Boca deliver authentic, contemporary, high-quality Mexican fare downtown. You’ll find a concise menu, including tacos, salads and sides, large plates, and desserts. The Pork Al Pastor tacos, zesty with salsa verde and sweet with grilled pineapple, are definite crowd-pleasers. If you’re biased against Brussels sprouts, Nada just might convert you. The crispy sprouts, served with chipotle honey and candied ancho pepitas, are a deliciously intriguing starter. 600 Walnut St., downtown, (513) 721-6232,

eatdrinknada.com. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner seven days, brunch Sat & Sun. MCC, DS. $$

SEAFOOD

MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S

The daily rotation here reads like a fisherman’s wish list: lobster tails from Australia and the North Atlantic, ahi tuna from Hawaii, clams from New England. But high-quality ingredients are only half the equation; preparation is the other. Herb-broth sea bass, served with roasted fingerling potatoes, makes the taste buds dance. The spacious digs and attentive waitstaff bring a touch of class to Fountain Square and make it a sophisticated destination. It’s likely to remain a favorite. After all, it’s right in the middle of things.

21 E. Fifth St., downtown, (513) 721-9339, mccormickandschmicks.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DC, DS. $$

ROSEWOOD SUSHI, THAI & SEAFOOD

Chanaka De Lanerolle sold Mt. Adams Fish House back in 2011, and Rosewood Sushi, Thai & Seafood is its reincarnation—and reinvention. Most of the menu includes crowd favorites such as Pad Thai, made with rice noodles, egg, bean sprouts, and a choice of protein. The handful of ethnic experiments on the menu—like the Black Tiger Roll, one of the chef’s special sushi rolls, made with shrimp tempura, eel, shiitake mushrooms, and topped with eel sauce—are among its most vibrant offerings.

3036 Madison Rd., Oakley, (513) 631-3474, rosewoodoakley.com. Lunch Fri–Sun, dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$$

STEAKS

CARLO & JOHNNY

The stars of the menu are 12 delectable steaks that could sway the vegi-curious to recommit. Not sure which to choose? If you prefer brawny flavor over buttery texture, go for one of the three bone-in rib cuts. Or if it’s that melt-in-your-mouth experience that raises your serotonin levels, C&J features several tenderloin cuts, including the premium six-ounce Wagyu filet. There are the usual suspects of raw bar, seafood, pork chops, et al, if you’re interested in non-beef alternatives.

9769 Montgomery Rd., Montgomery, (513) 936-8600, jeffruby.com/carlo-johnny. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

JEFF RUBY’S

Filled most nights with local scenesters and power brokers (and those who think they are), everything in this urban steakhouse is generous—from the portions to the expert service. White-jacketed waiters with floor-length aprons deliver two-fisted martinis and mounds of greens dressed in thin vinaigrettes or thick, creamy emulsions. An occasional salmon or sea bass appears, and there’s a small but decent assortment of land fare. But most customers are there for the slabs of beef (dry aged USDA prime). The best of these is Jeff Ruby’s Cowboy, 22 ounces of 70-day dry-aged bone-in rib eye. This is steak tailor-made for movers and shakers. 505 Vine St., downtown, (513) 784-1200, jeffruby.com. Dinner Mon–Sat. MCC, DC. $$$$

LOSANTI

Top 10

A bit more upscale than its sister restaurant, Crown Republic Gastropub, Losanti is also more conservative in its offerings. Service is friendly and informal, and though the meal feels like a special occasion, prices and atmosphere are

right for, say, a date, rather than a wedding anniversary. The filet mignon, rib eye, and New York strip are cut to order for each table (there are a few available weights for each). The steaks themselves are totally irreproachable, perfectly seasoned, cooked to precisely the right point. Losanti even makes the steakhouse sides a little special. Sweet and smoky caramelized onions are folded into the mashed potatoes, a nice dusting of truffles wakes up the mac and cheese, and the sweet corn is at least freshly cut off the cob and recalls elote with lime and chile.

1401 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 246-4213, losantiotr.com. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$

THE PRECINCT

Top10

Part of the appeal of the Ruby restaurants is their ability to deliver deep, comfort-food satisfaction. And the steaks. The meat is tender with a rich mineral flavor, and the signature seasoning provided a nice crunch, not to mention blazing heat. The supporting cast is strong—the basket of warm Sixteen Bricks bread with a mushroom truffle butter, the addictive baked macaroni and cheese, the creamy garlic mashed potatoes, the crisp-tender asparagus with roasted garlic and lemon vinaigrette—and dinner ends on a sweet note with a piece of Ruby family recipe cheesecake. Neither cloyingly sweet nor overwhelmingly creamy, it’s a lovely slice of restraint.

311 Delta Ave., Columbia-Tusculum, (513) 3215454, jeffruby.com/precinct. Dinner seven days. MCC. $$$$

TONY’S

Best known for his 30 years in fine dining—including the Jeff Ruby empire while managing the venerable Precinct—Tony Ricci has built a life in the hospitality industry. Much of Tony’s menu is right out of a steakhouse playbook: jumbo shrimp and king crab legs from the raw bar; Caprese, Greek, and Caesar salads; sides of creamed spinach, mac-and-cheese, asparagus, and sautéed mushrooms; toppings of roasted garlic or Gorgonzola butters to accompany your center cut of filet mignon. There are boutique touches, though, that make it stand out—a garlic herb aioli with the calamari, steak tartare torch-kissed and topped with a poached egg, a superb rack of lamb rubbed with aromatic sumac and served with mint pesto.

12110 Montgomery Rd., Symmes Township, (513) 677-8669, tonysofcincinnati.com. Dinner seven days. MCC, DS. $$$$

THAI

GREEN PAPAYA

Inside this simple dining room, replete with soothing browns and greens and handsome, dark wood furniture, it takes time to sort through the many curries and chef’s specialties, not to mention the wide variety of sushi on the something-for-everyone menu. Have the staff— friendly, attentive, and knowledgeable—help you. When the food arrives, you’ll need only a deep inhale to know you made the right choice. The Green Papaya sushi rolls are as delicious as they look, with a manic swirl of spicy mayo and bits of crabstick and crispy tempura batter scattered atop the spicy tuna, mango, cream cheese, and shrimp tempura sushi—all rolled in a vivid green soybean wrap.

2942 Wasson Rd., Oakley, (513) 731-0107, greenpapayacincinnati.com. Lunch Mon–Sat, dinner seven days. MCC. $$

TEAK THAI

Owner Chanaka De Lanerolle has said that he decided to bring back Teak’s take on Thai food because of the renewed vibrancy in Over-the-Rhine. But for all of the hype around the restaurant’s re-emergence on the scene, it’s probably best to consider it a reimagining rather than a reopening. While long-time favorites show up on the menu, prepared by many of the same kitchen staff members from Mt. Adams, some adaptations have

been made to better meet expectations of modern diners. Letting go of preconceived notions about Teak will serve you well. You have plenty of room to craft your own dining experience.

1200 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 421-8325, teakotr.com. Lunch and dinner Tues–Sun. MCC. $$

THAI NAMTIP

Classic Thai comfort food on the west side from chef/ owner Tussanee Leach, who grew up with galangal on her tongue and sriracha sauce in her veins. Her curries reign: pale yellow sweetened with coconut milk and poured over tender chicken breast and chunks of boiled pineapple; red curry the color of new brick, tasting of earth at first bite, then the sharply verdant Thai basil leaves, followed by a distant heat. Tom Kha Gai soup defines the complex interplay of flavors in Thai food: astringent lemongrass gives way to pepper, then Makrut lime, shot through with the gingery, herbaceous galangal, all yielding to the taunting sweetness of coconut. Even the simple skewers of chicken satay with Thai peanut sauce are rough and honest, dulcified by honey and dirtied up by a smoky grill.

5461 North Bend Rd., Monfort Heights, (513) 4813360, thainamtip.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MC, V. $

WILD GINGER

The ability to satisfy a deep desire for Vietnamese and Thai fusion cuisine is evident in Wild Ginger’s signature Hee Ma roll—a fortress of seaweed-wrapped rolls filled with shrimp tempura, asparagus, avocado, and topped with red tuna, pulled crab stick, tempura flakes, a bit of masago, scallions, and of course, spicy mayo. It’s tasty, even though the sweet fried floodwall of tempura and spicy mayo overpowered the tuna completely. The spicy pad char entrée was a solid seven out of 10: broccoli, carrots, cabbage, succulent red bell peppers, green beans, and beef, accented with basil and lime leaves in a peppercorn-and-chili brown sauce.

3655 Edwards Rd., Hyde Park, (513) 533-9500, wildgingercincy.com. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sun. MCC, DS. $$

VIETNAMESE

PHO LANG THANG

Owners Duy and Bao Nguyen and David Le have created a greatest hits playlist of Vietnamese cuisine: elegant, brothy pho made from poultry, beef, or vegan stocks poured over rice noodles and adrift with slices of onions, meats, or vegetables (the vegan pho chay is by far the most flavorful); fresh julienned vegetables, crunchy sprouts, and herbs served over vermicelli rice noodles (again, the vegan version, bun chay, is the standout); and bánh mì. Be sure to end with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, a devilish jolt of dark roast and sweetened condensed milk.

1828 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, (513) 376-9177, pholangthang.com. Lunch and dinner seven days. MCC, DS, DC. $

CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, (ISSN 0746-8 210), November 2024, Volume 58, Number 2. Published monthly ($19.95 for 12 issues annually) at 221 E. Fourth St., Ste. 130, Cincinnati, OH 45202. (513) 421-4300. Copyright © 2024 by Cincinnati Magazine LLC, a subsidiary of Hour Media Group, 5750 New King Dr., Ste. 100, Troy, MI 48098. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or reprinted without permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and artwork should be accompanied by SASE for return. The magazine cannot be held responsible for loss. For subscription orders, address changes or renewals, write to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071, or call 1-866-660-6247. Periodicals postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Please send forms 3579 to CINCINNATI MAGAZINE, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year.

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What’s the Tea at BonBonerie?

AROUND 150 DIFFERent teapots line the walls of BonBonerie’s café, bakery, and tearoom. From classic shapes to whimsical pieces with little teapots on top, co-owner Sharon Butler has amassed an impressive collection. It all started when the tearoom opened in the ’90s. Tea was originally served out of fun pots she was gifted or found at flea markets. “But I soon started finding that there was a lot of breakage, and it was really heartbreaking because some of these are never going to be made again. Some are so old,” says Butler. It was then decided that the pots would be used mostly for display. Each room in the café has its own display, usually grouped by appearance: cat-shaped, Japanese, locally made, the color blue, you name it. Despite the over-the-top nature of many pots, some of her favorites are the more practical Irish and English ones. “It did such a beautiful job, and tea service really mattered to them,” says Butler. “I’m just so attracted to that whole period of tea.”

—CLAIRE LEFTON