The Yard: Volume 6 Issue 2 by CisternYard Media

Volume 6 Issue 2 November 2017 www.cisternyard.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS

NOT YOUR FATHER’S FOODCOURT

BRUNCH BUNCH Three girls, three brunches, two days. Lessons were learned.

A high-risk, high-reward lunch space that’s completely unafraid of breaking the mold.

CHEWS LOCAL

NO MEAT, NO PROBLEMS

BAD AND BOOZEY

YOUR THOUGHTS We surveyed 100 students. This is how they like to eat – and drink – in Charleston.

KING OF GLEBE What happened to the hot dog man? Here’s the true story.

IN FOCUS Spotlighting the work of our staff photographers.

LOW AND SLOW: THE ART OF SOUTHERN BARBECUE Barbecue is a testament to working slow in a world that’s always moving fast.

YOU’VE BEEN SERVED Everything your server isn’t telling you.

COOKING ON A COLLEGE BUDGET

CHEFS: DECONSTRUCTED

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Letter from the Editor It’s Friday morning and I haven’t slept since Tuesday night. The magazine for which I’m writing this letter will go to print in a matter of hours and for once, I’m struggling to write what I want to say. I really need to get it right. Maybe everything feels urgent when you’re in this stage of sleep deprivation, but the stakes for this issue of The Yard feel particularly high. Two major incidents – one a sexual assault on campus and the other a display of racist idiocy by students – have agitated everyone. Like a persistent patch of mange on a cat’s back, irritations that were somewhat calm have flared up again. In light of this, a Food Issue seems incongruous. As story drafts started to roll in, I worried that we might be perceived as tone-deaf – clinging to apolitical writing when everything on campus, from classrooms to basketball games, has become a political arena. Food, however, is never inappropriate. It’s never the wrong time to examine how our universal need to eat impacts our relationships, health and economy. It’s never the wrong time to gather around a dinner table with friends and family, and choose to talk about issues on which you disagree. Understanding how we consume our food and those who labor to produce, cook and serve it, is critical to sustainable growth.

quality of this one magazine could ever diminish the innumerable hours I’ve spent learning, loving and, of course, eating with CisternYard News. Maybe that’s why humans keep returning to food, over and over, for significance and comfort. Food doesn’t have to be perfect to work. Smushed, stale, lopsided or slightly burnt – it can still nourish, still delight, still carry us through to another day. My three and a half years with this organization have not been perfect, but they have nourished me and propelled me forward. The people at CisternYard have delighted me every single day, even when I felt like crying. The experiences I have had here will fuel me in the next year of my life, and will stay in my heart for many more. It’s been perfect down to the last bite.

Sigrid Johannes

And besides all that, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with doing a magazine about something fun. There is a time to be serious, yes – but there’s also a time to let contentment suffuse your body, the way a good meal seeps into your skin and soothes every part of you. We are in our late teens and early twenties. We have decades of possibility stretching before us and if we harden into cynics now, we won’t be flexible enough to face the challenges that that possibility will inevitably present. This will be my last issue as editor in chief of CisternYard News. I felt enormous pressure to go out on the best note possible. I wanted it to be perfect, as if the

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THE BRICKS happening on and around campus

An Open Letter to the College This letter was originally distributed on October 30, responding to the photos of a racist costume that circulated widely on social media. Please note, the text has been edited for length. A copy of the unabridged letter will be posted on www.cisternyard.com.

by BRIA DANTZLER

As we all know, costumes are a tradition of Halloween. There are many costume ideas such as animals or cartoon characters. Although this may seem obvious, it has come to our attention that there are students at the College who do not understand this concept and have rather created costumes that mock dead Black bodies and Black culture all while using racial slurs. Multiple students, including Sam Weinick, Gianna Trombetta and others who have not been identified, are responsible for these actions. Students were seen wearing orange jumpsuits assumed to represent those in jail. There is one student who was seen wearing the name “Freddie Gray” on his back with the caption, “Ur going to jail tonight.” There is a subsequent photo with two students mocking Black culture through their hand placements with a caption stating, “Niggas broke out.” This behavior is disrespectful and demeaning to Black students here at the College, Americans who are victims of police brutality and those who are grieving the lives lost due to the blatant lack of respect towards Black bodies. If you do not know, on April 19, 2015, 25 year old Freddie Carlos Gray, Jr. became a deceased victim of police brutality. On April 12, 2015, Mr. Gray was detained by Baltimore Police Department and transported in a police van. Unfortunately, Mr. Gray never made it to the police department. Instead, he was transported to a trauma center where they attempted to treat him for spinal cord injuries that he sustained while in custody. Six officers were linked to the incident and suspended without pay. His death was ruled a homicide. The six officers were indicted on various charges, including second degree murder. None of the officers were found guilty on the charges, and some were even dropped. The death of Mr. Freddie Carlos Gray, Jr. was detrimental to, and causes emotional distress amongst Black communities and those who understand the inevitable outcomes of continuous acts of police brutality in America.

As students of the College of Charleston we come to you in solidarity to ask that the students involved in this incident be reprimanded through indefinite expulsion. These students’ actions negatively reflect the College, as well as the many other negative reprocussions it causes for students who attend and pay tuition. More than 500 Americans have lost their lives to police brutality this year alone. The actions taken by these students are a mockery of these lives and those who are grieving. The death of Mr. Gray is similar to the death of a loved one. Many of us feel this way and believe that the actions of these students are immoral and must be taken seriously. These are unacceptable behaviors that should not be tolerated. In these times, the disrespectful actions committed by these students cannot merely occur out of sheer ignorance. They occur because some people have a genuine disrespect for Black people and feel that Black culture is an open market of various elements to pick from and discard after use. Feeling safe is not being subjected to being viewed as objects and costumes that can be used to ridicule already marginalized communities. We, as a student body, are concerned about the values the College of Charleston upholds. We acknowledge that there is a need for change in these values. We are seeking dignified actions against acts of white supremacy. Reprocussions are necessary in order for all to understand that these are very serious matters. This is not a matter of agreement or disagreement on a controversial topic, but rather one of values, morals, respect and dignity. These actions should not be seen as conducive to the values that the College of Charleston aims to uphold, and therefore should neither be defended nor allowed, and subsequently reprimanded.

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Events

WHAT’S POPPIN’? the events we’re looking forward to this month

Nov. 10 – Jan. 1 Holiday Festival of Lights Starting at $15

The holiday lights at James Island County park inspirit even the biggest Scrooges with a slow walk or drive through Charleston’s very own winter wonderland.

Nov. 17 “Lady Bird” Advanced Screenings $11

Head over to the Terrace Theater to see director and screenwriter Greta Gerwig establish herself as one of this generation’s most talented filmakers with this poignant film about adolescence.

Nov. 18 Waxatachee at the Royal American $15

Waxatache revolves around Katie Crutchfield’s raw, personal songwriting. This intimate indie-rock show proves an exciting headline for Downtown.

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Nov. 19 The Brunch Boutique Free Admission

The Alley and Holy City Vintage Market team up once again to provide everyone’s favorite meal along with the chance to find that hip addition to your wardrobe before it comes back in style.

Dec. 4 Charleston Tree Lighting Ceremony Free

Witness the holiday magic firsthand as local musicians perform and the community takes part in holiday activities, all before the tree in Marion Square lights up for the first time this season.

Dec. 9 Great Russian Nutcracker Starting at $29

Enjoy the Moscow Ballet’s stunning performance of this holiday classic, at the North Charleston Coliseum and Performing Arts Center.

INDULGE in case you need a reason to treat yourself

by HANNAH KINARD Popsicles and booze – a combination of nostalgia and adult stress relief harnessed by Woody Norris, the founder and owner of Booze Pops. Norris began his business after returning to the Lowcountry from military service. “I saw an alcohol popsicle at a party and I thought, ‘Can I turn this into a business?’” He had no idea that Booze Pops would become the local sensation it is today. Norris, who has been sober for two years, has never tried his own product. Instead, he lets the customers test out new flavors. “The ones they like are the ones we keep,” he said. In the early stages of the business, Norris tried his best to make Booze Pops legal. “I went to the city attorney for three months,” he said. “I found a loophole. Well, not a loophole: a law they didn’t like.” Booze Pops avoids the open-container ban by technically being considered food. Norris’s menu is chockful of options and completely vegan. The most popular flavor is Mango, which is only

100 calories and contains 15 percent alcohol. He also offers wine pops, which are only 75 calories. “It’s a glass of wine on a stick; it’s great. People love it,” said Norris. The best-seller is Strawberry Daiquiri. A key part of Norris’s business is making sure no one underage purchases the pops. “We I.D. everybody,” he said. Norris’s mission statement for the business reads “Bringing communities together, one Booze Pop at a time.” Booze Pops is more than just an attraction – it’s a local and veteran owned business with a goal. Booze Pops has created 25 jobs since its opening, and is always hiring. “People make their own schedules, it’s very flexible. [My employees] love it.” Booze Pops will soon extend beyond the boundaries of the peninsula. Norris plans to take his truck up to Clemson and Carolina games to get in on the tailgating. Norris also plans to expand and franchise his business. “I want to have locations in Myrtle Beach, Charlotte, everywhere,” he said. “Hopefully by spring.”

WHAT IS OUR STAFF LISTENING TO THIS NOVEMBER?

MADISON, FEATURES EDITOR Slow Hands – Niall Horan

BRADLEY, MANAGING EDITOR Eyeballs – A. Savage

HUNTER, BLOGS EDITOR Rap Saved Me (feat. Quavo) – 21 Savage, Offset and Metro Boomin

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Let’s Chalk About It

THE GALLERY featuring a new student artist

by JAQUAN LEONARD An hour and a half has passed since the doors of Beech were locked. The floors have been swept, the dishes washed and the manager is meticulously counting large wads of cash for the final count of the night. For Dayana Wilkins, however, there is still work to be done.

The rest was history,” said Stella. How does he feel the boards make his restaurant look? “F***ing awesome,” he said. “Class, sharpness, professionalism — everyone that comes in always asks ‘Who did your boards? I want them to do some for me.’”

College of Charleston senior Dayana “Day” Wilkins is a calligrapher and owner of her own business, A Pen Full of Ink. With Gucci Mane’s “Out Do Ya” blasting in her earbuds and chalk dust lingering in the air, Wilkins is on the latter end of her three-hour masterpiece — a six by nine foot chalkboard menu. Pedestrians peer through the large window, watching in awe as Wilkins lays on the floor to script the final items.

For Stella, there is a clear difference between standard printed boards and the handwritten work that Wilkins has done. “There is a unique touch and a local feeling that [print boards] don’t have,” he said.

For Wilkins, odd hours are typical. Due to heavy traffic during business hours, her work in restaurants is confined to early mornings and late nights — working during hours of operation is not an option. “If I don’t finish, no one can order their lunch. So, I have to work super early or super late,” said Wilkins. “I always make sure that I am considerate of the employees’ time…on the other hand, I am a bit of a perfectionist and I have to make sure that I am giving the restaurant exactly what they are paying for.” In addition to Beech, Wilkins’ work also adorns the chalkboards of Circe’s Grotto. Wilkins became a regular of the restaurant during her commute to class. Enjoying their delicious avocado toast and charming atmosphere, she met Circe’s owner Nick Stella who suggested Wilkins put her skills to the test. “When we first opened, Wilkins would come in to get breakfast and lunch…When she told me about her business, I told her ‘let it rip, show me what you got.’

ZAINAB, NEWS EDITOR My peacoat!

Wilkins, who has been practicing calligraphy since the age of 14, says it was never her intention to start a calligraphy business. “I’ve always had good handwriting,” she said. “It wasn’t until a friend suggested that I get paid to do what I love that I started my business two years ago.” In addition to her restaurant pieces, Wilkins has done chalkboards for weddings, birthdays and baby showers. Wilkins was once surprised by a friend who decided to get a quote that she wrote tattooed on her shoulder. “The quote read: ‘Aspire to Inspire.’... I was definitely shocked to see my handwriting permanently placed on someone’s skin.” Another moment that sticks out for Wilkins: a piece dedicated to a customer’s late father-in-law. “I was approached by a guy to do a birthday gift for his wife. On the back of a photo of his wife and her father, I wrote the lyrics to a song that the two of them danced to at her wedding,” said Wilkins. “It was extremely touching.” Wilkins recognizes that while it may be just words, handwritten material has an endearing and lasting effect. “Whether a personal note or a menu, there is something about handwritten signs that print script is missing…It’s personal, it’s special.”

TIA, CREATIVE DIRECTOR MARA, OPINION EDITOR My olive green coat and UGGs. My giant blanket scarf!

WHAT ARE WE EXCITED TO BUST OUT OF OUR CLOSETS? November 2017

HEALTH

Feeding Your by COURTNEY HICKS

Hair

There are so many “grow your hair” overnight schemes. Before you start applying Monistat to your scalp, check out these natural remedies. Healthy, strong and growing hair can be achieved naturally with a few changes to one’s diet and a few all-natural treatments. Breakage? Hair usually breaks or splits due to a protein deficiency. Just add some more protein to your diet. Foods that are high in proteins that impart strength to your hair include eggs, almonds, greek yogurt and chicken. Salon quality protein treatments can run from $15 to $30, but you can make a DIY treatment for five dollars or less. Three egg whites Four tbsp of olive oil Five drops of essential oil Once a month, whip this mixture together and thoroughly apply to the ends of your hair, working your way up to the roots. Put on a plastic cap and let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes. After saturating the hair, rinse with cool water. Warm or hot water will cook the egg and I doubt you want omelette hair.

SHERKEYAH PEARSON photo by HANNAH BRODER

Dryness? Your scalp remains moisturized because of the natural sebum that your body produces. However, variations of thickness, density and porosity can cause different hair types to experience scalp dryness more than others. To increase sebum flow, eat more nuts, fruits, fish high in omega-3s and green veggies.

If that does not seem like enough, you can do stimulating scalp massages to invigorate your scalp and stimulate hair growth. Select a carrier oil of your choice (castor, coconut, sweet almond or olive oil) and add in five drops of a essential oil that you like – yes, you just got upgraded to an aromatherapy massage. Apply this mixture to your scalp and massage in a circular motion for five to ten minutes. Honey masks also intensify hydration. Honey is a natural humectant, which means it grabs the moisture from the air and absorbs it into your hair. I recommend adding a tablespoon of honey to your favorite deep conditioner or regular wash-out conditioner. Just wash out as you would regularly. #HairGoals Hair grows approximately half an inch to one inch a month regularly. However, some people can’t see this growth because they are not retaining length at their frazzled ends. To increase hair growth, start off by drinking lots of water. A gallon a day is the goal, but start off with a workable amount and then increase from there. Along with a healthy diet, a biotin multivitamin is essential. Biotin helps stimulate hair growth and increase sebum flow to your scalp, which fosters a healthy growing environment.

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SPORTS

Saddle Up with Sam Bledsoe by NICK RODRIGUEZ photo by ALLISON BERGMEYER

Sam Bledsoe isn’t horsing around. A sophomore on the College’s equestrian team, Bledsoe began riding since she was just three years old. Since then, she developed into a collegiate athlete. “The hard part about college equestrian is that up until college, it’s all an individual sport. So you’re riding for all your own titles,” said Bledsoe. College equestrian is more oriented towards team competitions. During competitions, riders are randomly assigned a horse to ride, which is thought as the best way to determine who is the most skilled rider. In 2016, Bledsoe won first place in the Zone Finals for the Walk/Trot/ Canter discipline and won sixth place in the Zone Nationals in the same discipline. Disciplines are broken into three categories: English, Horsemanship and Reining. Subcategories include of each discipline walk, trot, canter, novice, fences and flats. The team has done well this season – finishing in first or second place in four shows. “The great thing about our team is that our coach [Bob Story] doesn’t really focus on grade level at all. I do feel like I am one of the leaders, but then again every single member of our team is a leader because everyone brings something different to the team,” said Bledsoe. The College of Charleston Equestrian team remains one of the most competitive programs in the

November 2017

country. “The largest misconception about collegiate equestrian is when people believe that it is not a sport,” said Bledsoe. “We hear that a lot from people, just because they don’t really know what it entails. It’s not only the riding aspect, but also caring for the horse.” Bob Story has been the head coach at the College of Charleston since 1980. “He was someone who was very experienced and he had a great reputation for being a great coach and a great team leader. He has helped me a lot in my development and it feels like I am a much better and more confident rider. He is someone who coaches in a quiet way and gives meaningful comments. I have really benefitted from his coaching style,” said Bledsoe. Bledsoe has proven to be a passionate, driven person who has aspirations beyond riding horses. She says she would like to have the opportunity to ride after college but has her sights set on life outside of equestrian as well. “I want to fly the C17’s and after college, I am planning on joining the Air Force. My dad is a pilot and it was always one of those things in the back of my mind,” said Bledsoe. Whether she’s trotting with her horse or taking off of the runway, one thing stands to be true: she is like no other.

FEATURES

Not Your Father’s Foodcourt by GRACE SAMUELSON photos by HANNAH BRODER

Forget white awnings and wraparound porches, sleek and contemporary is here to stay. The stereotypical Charleston restaurant may not stay stereotypical for much longer. Welcome to Workshop. Located far up King Street, the gourmet food court Workshop, sits in a nondescript office plaza. Complete with five restaurants and a coffee shop, Workshop offers everything from pizza to sliders to Indian cuisine. The pay-then-seat-yourself style screams mall snacks, but Workshop’s quality says otherwise. Scents of simmering meat, pungent spices and cheesy tacos mingle together and waft through the air, dispelling the cliché of greasy fast food. Michael Shemtov opened Workshop in May 2017. Shemtov, owner of Butcher & Bee and The Daily, has a distinct style in Charleston. Visible similarities like copper accents and contemporary furniture link Workshop with his other restaurants. At five months old, the business is practically a newborn – but that doesn’t stop it from drawing customers through the doors. Every space in Workshop is rented out by restaurants for a few months at a time, encouraging them to experiment. “You can try it out for a short period of time and see how it goes. It’s kind of like a test kitchen,” said a Slider Gold employee. Currently, Bad Wolf Coffee, Slice Co., Pink Bellies, Juan Luis, Slider Gold and Sambar occupy each window of the food court.

Bad Wolf Coffee is the one place that isn’t meant to change ownership. Standing separate from the rest of the food court, Bad Wolf is a picture-perfect place to enjoy a steaming latte or iced Americano while getting work done. With a white tile backdrop, grey slate flooring and bright wooden tables, the boxy space sounds like it should feel cold and vacant. Yet the pops of blue in the mugs and the aroma of Californian coffee beans make the open room feel cozy. The rich flavor of a warm maple latte topped off with heart-shaped foam art welcomes customers at the first sip.

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FEATURES

A few steps outside Bad Wolf Coffee is a tiny walk-up pizza window called Slice Co. “I like to call it 246 square feet of heaven” said Todd Lucey, owner of the joint. The space holds just Lucey, a brick pizza oven, a stove and a heater. Lucey makes everything from scratch and the only other employee is his wife. “It’s kind of a family business,” said Lucey as he prodded freshly crafted mozzarella. Their baby even joins the team at times. Lucey started his business in a food truck. When Workshop was getting started, they reached out to food trucks, offering Lucey the space for a pizzeria and he jumped at the chance. Slice Co. even does free delivery to the peninsula. Lucey’s pizza is the real deal. As a New Yorker, Lucey knows what real pizza should taste like and his is nothing short of exceptional. The Grandma Pizza is one of his specialties. Complete with tomato, anchovy, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil, parsley, scallion and oregano, each bite is a shock to your taste buds. Every ingredient works together to compliment the others with ease, bringing together the decadent flavor. Next to the Indian cuisine of Sambar is Pink Bellies, a name familiar to most upperclassmen at College of Charleston. The Pink Bellies food truck used to sit on the corner of St. Philip and Calhoun almost every day. “The owner wanted to try something new, so he sold his food truck and rented out a space here,” said a Pink Bellies employee.

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Slider Gold sits just next to the Vietnamese window. With a knack for Japanese cuisine, Chef Brian Emperor puts his skills to the test and offers various types of Japanese sliders and snacks. “Sliders” isn’t necessarily the first word that comes to mind when Japanese food is mentioned, but Emperor makes it work. The bestselling “Slider King” is small, but mighty in flavor. Through a concoction of sweet soy sauce marinated beef, Roma tomato and special sauces, the Slider King is a delectable combination of sweet, sour and rich in each bite. Although only large enough for about four bites, each is a pleasant explosion in your mouth, leaving you yearning for more. Garnishes of green and purple fill the space between the bun and patty, creating an Instagram-able meal with a powerful taste. Charleston is a city unlike any other; Workshop is a food experience unlike any other. Forget the quaint rainbow colored houses with wrap around porches and welcome the open air contemporary style that is Workshop. Each offers great food with a different style. Workshop is all about creating – the space and food can attest to that. Pasted along one of the walls is a quote: “The world needs creators, those who dream fearlessly, pursue passions, believe. Creators need community, a place to build their vision, people to share it with. This is Workshop, where creators meet community and ideas meet the world.”

FEATURES

Brunch Bunch

by MARA MCCLOY and SIG JOHANNES / photos by HANNAH BRODER and JAQUAN LEONARD Warm air lifted the ends of our hair and melted the concealer from our faces as we leaned back in the metal patio chairs and our photographer loomed over the table, snapping shots of expensive breakfast foods. It was a Saturday morning at Hominy Grill, and this was our first foray into food writing. Writing an article about food is a self-conscious act – you have to slow down and chew more than you normally would, and crowd between other diners to get the best angle for a photograph. It is even more self-conscious for women. Public behavior, especially eating, is laden with all kinds of expectations and coded ridicule for female foodies. So naturally, we two girls decided to knock out three brunches in two days and have a lip-smacking good time doing it. When you think of a Charleston brunch, you think of girls dressed in their weekend best, disguising their hangover under eyes with thick makeup while sipping their fabulous mimosas. But for us gals – brunch is all good food and good conversation. We created memories where we loved every bite. Hominy Grill. This is where you beg your parents to take you when they’re in town. This is comfort food epitomized. The Charleston Nasty Biscuit is like getting hit in the face with a wet bag of flavor and actually loving it. This is where pearl-clutching old ladies rub shoulders with that guy who non-ironically wears friendship bracelets. It’s a great mix of people with solid drink options and classic Southern brunch food – but its biggest strength? This is where you eat.

If you’re really hungry, Hominy’s major portions will treat you right. Go on ma’am...fill that belly. Huevos Rancheros $12 We were pleasantly surprised by this Tex Mex staple. A homemade shell filled with rice, black beans and pico de gallo supported two poached eggs. Oh, and there were slices of avocado on the side – if you’re into that. Overall, this dish was an incredible mixture of textures. The crispy taco shell didn’t taste like an afterthought and we were converted to the beauty of poached eggs. It is a great choice if you’re not into the whole greasy breakfast thing. Country Breakfast $10 When you think of Hominy Grill, you think of Southern cooking. The country breakfast not only upholds this expectation, but exceeds it by a country mile. With bacon that is so unbelievably crispy (literally no fat – we were shook), the sunniest of sunny side up eggs, a warm biscuit and the best darn grits you’ll ever eat, you will never want to settle for the Waffle House All-Star Special again. Tastiness: 8/10 Booziness: 10/10 Cool Factor: 6/10

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FEATURES

Xiao Bao Biscuit. Well, we felt significantly uncool here, but maybe that’s just us. This is great if you want an edgier brunch that will impress your multicultural uncle or your freshly minted Bumble date. This is where you can powerplay your pretentious friend with punchy dishes that they can’t even pronounce. The dishes were tremendously flavorful and the spiciness was a welcome contrast to the bland and buttered cooking that dominates Charleston. We also hugely enjoyed the sharing style – groups are meant to order several things and taste them all. Extra points to you, Xiao Bao, for not breaking the bank. If the cast of Portlandia ever came to Charleston, they would brunch here. Chao Fan $12 Here’s the thing guys, I don’t usually crave a rice bowl. It’s just not my thing – but the chao fan of the week was incredible. I don’t know how they got the shreds of pork to taste citrusy, but this bright tartness cut perfectly through the low, muted warmth of the rice. The portion size was perfect for four people to taste, and would definitely fill up two people.

November 2017

Okonomiyaki $12 This dish is otherwise known as a Japanese cabbage pancake. At first we thought, “what the hell is cabbage doing in a pancake,” and then we tasted it. When ordering, you have the option of adding an over easy egg and bacon (the thickest most ham-like bacon you’ll ever set your eyes on). Do it. The egg yolk mixed with all the phenomenal mystery spices and smooth drizzle of flavor made this cabbage pancake a surprising top dish. Tastiness: 10/10 Booziness: We’re too poor to order a drink at every restaurant. Cool Factor: 10/10

FEATURES Warehouse captures a lot of what it means to be a vibrant Charleston restaurant – creative drinks, an inventive take on casual food and a pool table in the back. The whole aesthetic of the space gave off what Pinterest informs us are “warm industrial” vibes. Rain splattered hard on the windows while we ate, the sound and atmosphere taking us back to our mom’s house right before dinner. At the same time, we felt cooler than our child-selves could have envisioned. Dimly lit, comfortable and friendly, it’s hip without trying too hard and definitely delivers on the buzz around new chef Jason Daly. Each menu item was uniquely stamped with something that made it, well, Warehouse’s. Bananas Foster French Toast $13 Oh my. This, ladies and gentlemen, was some sexy food. The thick-cut Brown’s Court pullman bread was crispy on the outside and almost melty on the interior. With sweet banana slices on top and a rich, slightly boozy puddle of caramel sauce below, this was a worthy adversary for my unstoppable sweet tooth. My sole complaint – not enough whipped cream. If you’re going to put it on there, you’ve got to do more than a quarter-sized amount. It’s not expensive shampoo. I also ordered a pomegranate mimosa – refreshing and prime Instagram material.

Fried Chicken Bombers $14 When I first read the ingredients of these sliders, I was already listing the things I was going to ask off. Then I had a wild thought, “why don’t I just trust the chef ?” Let me tell you guys – this was the best decision I ever made. I took my first bite and literally melted into a delicious pot of fried chicken, shaved kale, cabbage slaw, garlic aioli, bacon, honey mustard and two of the warmest, softest english muffins in the universe. All of the flavors came together in a symphony of a “brunchy tailgate.” If you’re looking for a new twist on your classic brunch slider, this is the meal for you. Honey Sriracha Tots $6 We ordered these just for fun and they were incredible. Classic tater tots drizzled in honey and hot sauce for a combination that almost tasted like sweet and sour sauce. Crunching these bad boys in your mouth was like taking a hit of sophisticated snacktime, like if your second grade teacher was Gordon Ramsay. Tastiness: Broke the scale Booziness: 10/10 Cool Factor: Fire emoji

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FEATURES

People love to criticize brunch. Maybe we find it easy to ridicule because it’s lazy – the whole idea is that you slept in and combined breakfast and lunch. Maybe it’s because we associate it with privilege and wealth — rich people sitting around at tables that are too small, nibbling avocado toast and debating the merits of single-payer healthcare. But you know what we think is behind the brunch bashing? People love to ridicule brunch because it makes a lot of women happy. Anywhere from YouTube to network TV, you can find parodic depictions of women gathered around a brunch table. Throwing on your nicest dress (even if it’s from Goodwill) and carving out time to spend with your girl friends feeds the soul, like a shot of oxygen-rich blood straight to your heart. Brunch can be spontaneous or carefully planned. It can be frivolous or a special investment. But whatever it is, it shouldn’t be self-conscious or uptight. Ladies, if you are going to brunch, brunch your way.

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OPINION

HEWS LOCAL

by CELESTE CALDWELL photos by ALEX MIELCAREK

Everything in sight is green. To the right, sunlight reflects off smooth butter lettuce and to the left, crunchy kale sprouts from the ground. I look down at my muddy boots and realize that there is an ultimate source I rarely consider – Earth.

kind of give back in their life, they want to do some kind of good and they see growing their own food and growing food for the community as a way to do that.” This giving philosophy translates to dedication to sustainable and organic practices.

Most people do not think about the origin that precedes the grocery store; they buy the okay-looking fluorescent strawberries and then throw away the plastic packaging. They do not think about who grew it, how it was grown or what it left behind. It is time to think about our actions, particularly the smallest ones that are carried out each and every day. College is the time in life in which we make decisions that define us as people and form habits to carry us into adulthood. Recognize that by making a purchase, you make a choice – and an awfully important one at that. That purchase propagates a whole history of production and an entire series of consequences.

We hear “buy organic” a lot, but what does that really mean? It means adding back to the environment what you are taking away. Mr. Wheat has dedicated his life to promoting these nature-friendly practices. He recognizes that through farming, you are inherently taking away from the Earth, but we have the ability to produce food and contribute to the food system without being detrimental to it. Avoiding harm to the food system means avoiding synthetic inputs and supporting a well-established soil base that allows you to limit extra fertilizers and pesticides. “Healthy soil means healthy stuff; healthy stuff means healthy food,” says Brian Wheat.

I sat down with Lowcountry Local First, a nonprofit dedicated to cultivating an economy anchored in local ownership. What are we choosing when we choose local? We choose our environment, our health and our community.

Imagine sorting through piles of produce and throwing a worn tomato in a crinkly green bag. Then picture picking up a plump red tomato at the James Island Farmers Market. It should be obvious that fresh, local produce is healthier. It has not been coated in pesticides to survive the trek across country, losing nutrients and wasting fuel along the way. Buying local means supporting a healthy life for yourself, but also for your community. Organizations like Lowcountry Street Grocery, a mobile farmer’s market designed to bring affordable, healthy and local food across Charleston, bridge the gap between individual nutrition and communitywide health (lowcountrystreetgrocery.com). College of Charleston graduate and founder, Lindsey Barrow Jr., saw a community need and an opportunity to naturally leverage one market to support the other. This cooperative structure based on mutually beneficial giving avoids a reliance on grants, fundraisers and toxic charity (a reliance

Brian Wheat, Director of Sustainable Agriculture, showed me around the Middleton Place farm to discuss what supporting local farmers really means. He runs the Growing New Farmers program at Lowcountry Local First, which gives people an opportunity to join the local food system through curriculum-based instruction and handson experience. The program has grown a network of over 146 new farmers, trained in soil health and composting, integrated pest and disease management, food safety, good agricultural practices and more. He emphasizes that the people who join this program and pursue careers as local farmers do so because they want to incorporate “some 16

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OPINION

on one-sided giving that perpetuates a suppressive hierarchal system.) It addresses imbalances in our community. Charleston has been rated as the number one city in the world but there are children here that live further beneath the poverty line than anywhere else in the state. When you board the revamped retro green bus, rock out to some 70’s classic rock and buy your weekly greens, you are supporting nutritional access for the entire community. “Go after the good work, people notice it and appreciate it. It transcends to your surroundings and will eventually start a trend,” said Barrow. Buying from any business who supports local, offers benefits you may have never considered. Jordan Amaker, Director of Marketing and Communications at Lowcountry Local First, points out that supporting a local business helps protect the character of place – what makes Charleston unique. This investment supports tourism and the local economy. With every 100 dollars spent at a chain store, an average of 14 dollars is reinvested in the community. For every 100 dollars spent at a local store, an average of 45 dollars is reinvested in the community. If our community is selfreliant and the national economy crashes, we are safe due to sustainable practicing.

Street Grocery. Check the weekly bus route on the Lowcountry Street Grocery website or social media pages. Visit your local farmer's market and utilize the Local First eat local guide to see what’s in season; check if those radishes were really grown locally and ask important questions like “what do your animals eat, and where do they live?” Then follow Mr. Barrow’s advice and cook up a creative meal with the farmer’s market finds. Go to restaurants located on the farm fresh food guide, like Queen Street Grocery, and ask if they can recommend a dish that utilizes local protein or produce. Join initiatives like Buy Local Month (starting November 15) and Eat Local Month (starting April 1), which encourages the community to shift their spending. You can get involved through their website (lowcountrylocalfirst.org) or app, and dedicate 10 dollars of your weekly spending to local sources. If you want to really immerse yourself in this movement, consider applying for the Growing New Farmers program or email about volunteer and internship opportunities at Lowcountry Local First. As Mr. Wheat says, “We can choose how we spend our energy and time and do good with that.” So next time you go grocery shopping or decide to eat out with friends – think about your options and make a conscious choice to invest your energy and time into something you can feel good about.

Supporting local is easy with events and resources provided by Lowcountry Local First and Lowcountry

November 2017

King of Glebe

THE BRICKS happening on and around campus

by MCKAYLA CONAHAN photo by HARRY CAMFERDAM

On the first day of classes this semester, I directed a freshman to the Jewish Studies Center using “the hot dog guy on Glebe Street” as a landmark. “Who?” she asked.

At the time, I couldn’t have known what deeper implications this question held. But nevertheless, I was shook. Where the hotdog stand run by one Mexican man in the city with the highest rate of gentrification in the United States used to be now stood Koa Bowl, an audibly blue poke truck – a manifestation of this very phenomenon. Given our city’s well-known history with pushing out poor residents, and making grocery stores and apartment buildings vanish in favor of more hotels on a thumb of land that already struggles with parking space and floods, worrying about the fate of one guy who used to sell hotdogs might seem trite. However, what happened to “Angel’s Food Services” is like a scale-model of what is happening to Charleston as a whole, and in order to understand it, we must ask the small questions as well as the big ones. So, what happened to our sole downtown provider of hot dogs and Jarritos? Rumors spread quickly. I heard from a friend that he was working on East Bay Street. Another said he was working construction. I created a short survey to ask people simple things about who he was and where they think he went. Three people of the 68 responders thought “he just died.” Thanks to an erroneous article in The Odyssey (“Bring the Glebe Hot Dog Man Back” by Colleen Topliff), many students believed he had been deported. Nearly anyone you asked, from stu18

dents, to peer facilitators, to public safety officers, were under the impression he’d been deported. One person answered that survey question with “I don’t think he’s been deported but I heard someone say that they thought he was, I figured it was a racist joke ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.” Considering the widespread concern voiced by the students as well as the current political climate, I wanted to set the record straight. Antelmo Garcia Vargas pulled up in his white Nissan truck to the corner of Glebe and George on a Friday, just after the sun went down. He agreed to meet with a photographer, a translator and me. His English is quite good, but he felt more comfortable speaking in Spanish. Our conversation floated between the two languages, occasionally studded by the roar of passing Übers laden with drunk college kids. As he talked, I caught a glimpse at two front teeth embedded in silver.

Vargas usually just asks people to call him Moe. He doesn’t mind if people call him Angel, but his business was actually named after his son. He came to the United States from Mexico City in 2002 when he was 16 and lived in New York City for two years. He then moved to Gaston, North Carolina. He came to Charleston seeking more construction jobs and now lives here with his wife Julia and his three kids, Amy, Angel and Alan. The real story behind his disappearance is that his spot on Glebe was indeed bought out by Koa Bowl and he has gone back to working in construction in the Charleston area. Though he’s left campus, he told me he has no intention of leaving the city. “I like Charleston, I don’t want to go anywhere,” said Vargas. the yard

THE BRICKS He originally started the hot dog business with friend Luke Chillak, under the name Coral Bean. Chillak moved on to be a supervisor at a construction company, taking the name with him for plans for a future franchise. However, he encouraged Vargas to keep selling hotdogs. With a new name of Angel’s Food Services, Vargas hit the pavement and served the people of Charleston from late 2007 to early 2017 – just shy of ten years. The spot he occupied on Glebe Street goes up for auction every August, typically for 1800 dollars for the whole year, but will always go to the highest bidder. His theory is that people noticed how he always had a line at his stand, figured he was making a lot of money, and that’s why the spot ended up being bought out by someone else. It’s clear this is something Koa Bowl may have erroneously assumed. “People went to his stand because it was cheap and it was good. That’s where all the construction workers got lunch, but they’re not going to go to some super expensive food truck. They don’t want avocado toast. No one wants avocado toast. That’s a f**king meme,” said Lane Kennedy, a College of Charleston student. Keeping things affordable was strictly in-line with Vargas’s morals.

“I don’t pay much for this spot because I like to sell cheaper for the students, and it’s enough (revenue) for me,” said Vargas. It was certainly a relief to hear he was still around and hadn’t been deported. It is a real and frightening thing that affects hundreds of thousands of immigrants to America every year, but despite it being so common, it shouldn’t be taken lightly or accepted as a norm. Even if something like a Hispanic man and his family being deported sounds believable, we need to make sure we’re fact-checking rumors such as these. “What do you think about the deportation rumors?” I asked. “When people do actually ask and take the time to figure out why I’ve left makes me feel important,” he said. “Do you think you’ll ever come back to your old territory?” I asked. “Maybe. I love this job. I like the people here. I miss everybody. It just makes me feel really good, really important, that over ten years I was able to impact so many people for them to care to even ask about where I’ve gone.” We miss you too, Moe.

55.9% of people thought his name was Angel 11.8% of people actually knew his name (but most answered “Moe”)

Moe

32.4% of people’s favorite combo was the Starving Student: two hot dogs, chips, and a drink 61.8% of people heard he was deported 100% of the people who took the survey were current or former College of Charleston students

November 2017

35.3% of people heard this from the Odyssey article

IN FOCUS spotlighting the work of our staff photographers

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IN FOCUS

November 2017

FEATURES

Low and Slow

The Art of Southern Barbecue

by BRADLEY HARRISON photos by HANNAH BRODER

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FEATURES

The morning before my father’s 40th birthday, a huge mysterious object wrapped in plastic showed up on our back porch. I was nine and not allowed to touch it, so naturally I snuck out there the first chance I got and peeled back the wrapping to take a peek. I can’t really say what I expected to find, but when I stuck my nose into the honker of a dead pig, I was a little traumatized. Later that day, Dad’s friends pulled into our yard with a trailer full of hickory and this giant, black metal grill. The following hours were filled with the aroma of this tantalizing, decadent smoke. That smell was all I needed to reconcile my remorse for the dead pig. I was excited to eat some barbecue. Sorry, Wilbur. Turns out, the giant, black metal grill producing that smoke wasn’t a grill at all. A grill cooks meat directly over the flame. That, no matter what anyone from outside the South says, is not barbecue. Barbecuing meat to its juicy, moist perfection requires a very specific preparation beginning with an offset smoker. Everything about the smoker is controllable, from the type of wood used to build the fire to the heat and smoke flow into the cooking chamber to the air flow out of the chimney. There is a special title given to anyone who can command a barbecue smoker with craft and expertise: Pitmaster. In an article for Tasting Table, John Lewis wrote “I’m often asked what my barbecue ‘secret’ is. People think it’s a special rub recipe...but what it really boils down to is the machine. I can attribute my barbecue’s taste, texture and consistency to the pit… I’ve been obsessed with the pro-

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cess and controlling the perfect temperature and smoke. That’s what makes a dedicated ‘pitmaster.’” Pitmaster Lewis is a Texas native, and perhaps the greatest commander of the smoker of this generation. The top of his restaurant’s website reads, “The first thing you’ll notice when you pull up to Lewis Barbecue are the massive, custom-made smokers, welded by the pitmaster himself.” The man has reinvented the smoker to curate his perfect meats. But Texas-style barbecue isn’t the same as what Carolinians are used to. See, out in Texas, there are open ranges perfect for raising cattle. Texans like John Lewis got so good at smoking these cows that the whole-hog purists of the Carolinas began craving beef brisket. So, he opened a restaurant in Charleston in 2015. Lewis Barbecue is the kind of place that was obviously meticulously designed. From the bronze light fixtures to the square bar that you can sit at either inside or out, it is clear you are meant to feel comfortable. The space feels like modern Texas: clean swept, broad and well lit, with enough space to hang your hat, stretch your legs and drink your mezcal (or try the fantastic watermelon and jalepeño Sandía). I ordered the brisket sandwich, and it was the best barbecue I have eaten in Charleston. I was able to slice it like butter right down the middle with a plastic knife and enjoy it simply: meat and bread. After a few bites, I decided to switch things up and added some of the house-pickled red onions and cucumbers with a dab of the green sauce, and was just as impressed.

FEATURES

You may have noticed I said the beef brisket was my favorite barbecue I ate in Charleston. For a Carolinian like me, a statement like that is almost blasphemous. No one is sure of the exact origins of barbecue, but Native American and African methods of indirectly smoking meats definitely influenced the European immigrants. That being said, barbecuing as we know it became popularized in the Southeastern colonies, specifically the Carolinas. In the early settlement days, it was hard to take care of livestock because resources were scarce. Farmers would release their pigs into the wild where they could survive on their own (something cows can’t do). When it was time for a feast, hunters would catch the semi-feral swine and cook them.

Rodney Scott’s BBQ opened this year, and it brought with it the hometown-diner feel of his family’s restaurant in Hemingway, South Carolina. The space is naturally lit by large windows, each wall is lined with booths and a long community table runs down the middle. By the time you order, get your drink at the soda fountain and sit down, a server is bringing your food with a charming smile. One bite of his pork and you understand what South Carolina barbecue really is. Scott’s website states, “the fresh whole hogs are first cooked belly down for 12 hours before they’re flipped over on their back, seasoned and doused liberally with Rodney’s Sauce and allowed to cook a little longer to let the flavors soak in.”

Wild pigs become leaner than farm pigs, so southerners utilized the “low and slow” technique of offset smoking to tenderize the meat. The low heat and slow cooking kept the fat from burning off, which is why properly barbecued meat is tender and juicy. This is something that the true-blue Carolinian Pitmaster Rodney Scott understands to perfection.

The resulting flavor and feel of his pork is pure Carolina. The way he cooks the meat makes it a little more savory and spicy than most pulled pork. It takes on the decadent seasoning of the soul food the Carolinas are known for. His pulled pork tastes like it’s telling you to slow down and enjoy life, and really there is nothing else you can do while eating BBQ.

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FEATURES

“Slow down and enjoy life” is definitely a southern sentiment. Even in the early colonies, when people were starving and capturing pigs out of the woods to cook, they didn’t rush the process. Barbecuing is a time-honored tradition. No matter if you are in a backyard like mine on my father’s 40th birthday or a restaurant in Downtown Charleston, barbecue is meant to be cherished. It is something southerners can connect back to their hometown, when not a lot was enough and a little excitement was a treat. “I’m excited for some barbecue!” I told the server at Home Team BBQ. “There’s no other way to be when it comes to barbecue,” he responded. Home Team BBQ embodies the comfort of your hometown, but throws a little whiskey and excitement into the mix. Whether you’re seated at the huge bar made out of reclaimed wood or outside on the patio, it is the kind of place where you can wear your comfortable jeans, drink your whiskey straight and indulge in some of the most inventive sauces in town. The pulled pork, juicy enough on its own, only gets better when you add the Hot Red or Pepper and Vinegar sauces. The Hot Red’s peppery seasoning will remind you of salsa, and as its name implies, you might have to chug a little water.

November 2017

The standout sauce, though, is the Pepper and Vinegar. You can pour it on without overpowering the flavor of the meat. It is subtly tangy and spicy, slightly modifying the meat and making you want more. Home Team’s delicious barbecue and sauces are reminiscent of the way your mom made your favorite dish taste the way that only she can. You remember and crave it, but can’t get it anywhere else. Barbecue is a culture rooted in community and history, one that takes dedication and commitment above all else. Every tiny detail in the preparation process is vital. But it is good because it takes hard work. Barbecue is something that America’s diverse ancestors developed to remedy difficult situations, to nourish the community and to give everyone something to look forward to. Lewis Barbecue, Rodney Scott’s BBQ and Home Team BBQ are all very different, but the underlying similarity between the three is the understanding that their work is honorable and for the people. They chose a hard job in smoking good meats because they want to feed the community of Charleston good food. And for that, we thank them.

FEATURES

No Meat, No Problems by MICHELLE NANNARONE photos by HALEY BECKEL

The South runs on mac n’ cheese, but recently plantbased and gluten free eating have been on the incline. More and more vegan restaurants have opened throughout Charleston, and they’re welcoming customers of all different lifestyles to experience their food. Gnome Cafe Located on President Street, this plant-based cafe is out of this world. From all-day breakfast to fresh pastries being cooked and served constantly, Gnome Cafe is definitely a hotspot for plant-based eating. Yes, I repeat, plant-based. Everything on their menu is plant-based and extremely healthy. Their menu has everything I ever dreamed of: veggie burgers with cheese and bacon, tempeh sandwiches with all the fixings, taco salad, pad thai salad and even breakfast burritos. The Operations Manager, Jon York, said, “everything on the menu is locally sourced. Being a cafe in the South, locally sourced food is definitely a key factor in having and serving healthy food.” They can modify any dish, like cinnamon pancakes or grits, to be gluten free. The atmosphere of this little cafe is even better. Plants hanging everywhere, the smell of coffee and cinnamon, the sound of laughter as friends gather around the tables and newspapers turning all create a soothing environment. I definitely felt hip and at peace. The owners, who used to be yoga instructors, wanted people to feel comfortable dining at Gnome. They painted the saying, “Lokah Samastah Sukhino Bhavantu” which means “May all being be happy and free.” York 26

stated that the owners of Gnome Cafe, “wanted this place to accept all humans. It serves as a place for people to step away from their messy lives for a while and feel happy and free when they walk through the doors at Gnome.” It is clear to see that eating healthy can be enjoyed easily while munching away at Gnome Cafe. Dellz Uptown Located on Rutledge Ave, this pit stop has all the wraps, pizza and salads a person can dream of. Dellz Uptown is a vegan and vegetarian friendly restaurant that has something for everybody – including meat eaters. Just like Gnome, Dellz is a gluten-free friendly place. When looking for the best thing to eat here that hits all three criteria (vegan, gluten free, and healthy), I tried the High on Veggies wrap, but asked for the salad version instead. This salad is life-changing. The green-goddess dressing makes the fact that I am eating a bunch of veggies even better. Maddie, one of the the cashiers, expressed to me that, “everyone in the kitchen is really passionate about cooking. They make sure that everything tastes amazing, and that they only use fresh ingredients. The owner Dell is really strict on only using local food.” While customers were enjoying their Jazzy Pizza and wraps while talking with friends, I asked Jen, one of the customers, how she was enjoying her food. She did not hesitate to tell me that, “I’m not vegan myself, but every time I come to Dellz, I always order on the vegan menu. I just feel so refueled and energized after eating here! Plus, Dell is a sweetheart and really thrives on providing the best food for her customers.”

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FEATURES The Harbinger Cafe + Bakery Located on King Street, The Harbinger Cafe and Bakery is a new addition to the plant-based restaurants in Charleston. Offering vegan, vegetarian and gluten free food, everything about this place is magical. The owners Gwen and Cameron want to provide a restaurant that is calm and welcoming. On The Harbinger Cafe’s website, it states, “what we’re all about: our from-scratch kitchen features locally-sourced & seasonal breakfast & lunch fare as well as a curated selection of top-notch baked goods with both plant-based & gluten-free options. The warm & inviting space is designed to reflect our commitment to friendly service, providing a cozy environment where neighbors & visitors alike can feel like they have a home on King Street.”

Verde What’s better than having someone do all the dirty work and make a salad for me? Verde, another King St. restaurant, is an amazing option for everyone, regardless of lifestyle. All the produce is locally bought and bursting with flavor. From salads to wraps, they give their customers a chance to create their own or choose from their menu. Verde is so good and so fresh that I find myself craving a salad from here on a daily basis. With these options, vegan and healthy eating will never be difficult again. Even on the days or weeks I want to treat myself, I go to one of these places and treat myself the right way!

Everything on the menu is so unique and different that it is impossible not to leave this place with a full and happy belly. On top of that, the food they purchase is all locally sourced. I thought the dessert at Gnome was next level until I tried The Harbinger Cafe’s sweet treats. The Best Friend cookie is easily the size of a hand and so gooey and chocolatey that I melted to the floor. Beech Who doesn’t love a good Acai bowl? Right on King Street, Beech is so close to the College and always seems to be buzzing with students. When I walked into Beech, I saw bananas lining the walls. What’s even better is mostly everything on their menu can be made gluten free. Whenever I’m in the mood for a nice healthy kickstart to my day, or it’s too hot for anything else, I head over to Beech, and have added it to my best acai bowls list. They also serve bagels, wraps and poke bowls. Beech provides options for every kind of lifestyle, and thrives on serving customers the healthiest foods they can find.

November 2017

FEATURES

Behind the Bar by HUNTER BEAUDOIN photos by HANNAH BRODER

SOPHIE, CLOSED FOR BUSINESS JOE, JUANITA’S King Street at night rumbles with smells of stale food, alcohol and shouts of drunk people. Step into a bar and it only gets more congested. Who could possibly keep their cool in this crush of people and sensations? Who could pin a smile on their face for hour after hour of chaotic work? The bartenders of King Street. Joe, a 27 year old bartender at Juanita’s, has been bartending for about two and a half years. Every moment on the job has been memorable, right from the start. During his first training shift, a bachelorette party of about 15 women entered the bar. The girls came in and announced that they wanted to take body shots on the bar. Unsure of what to do, Joe looked to his manager, who accepted their offer, much to his amazement.

at and look around at your surroundings. If there’s 150 people in the bar and you’re one of two or three, I have to prioritize.” He was also adamant about customers not waving money at him like a stripper because, “I’m not gonna take my clothes off for you.” Sophie is a 24 year old bartender from Long Island, who now works at Closed For Business. She has six years under her belt, and has worked her share of crazy shifts. She used to bartend during “college nights,” when students funnelled shots and played flip cup with mixed drinks. After College of Charleston’s graduation last year, a father and his six sons walked into the bar and each purchased a boot. All the sons partook in a chugging competition with the father cheering them on in celebration.

When asked what advice he would give customers, Joe said, “Don’t be a dick. Know where you’re 28

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FEATURES

KATHY, INK N IVY

“Know what you want,” is her tip to those ordering in an overpopulated bar – especially important considering Closed For Business has 43 beers on draft. “We [bartenders] always have fun working, but we’re still working at the end of the day. If a bartender is short, realize you’re not the only person in the bar.” Just a few doors down, Kathy bartends at Ink n Ivy. She has over 15 years of experience on the bar scene, here and in Columbia, South Carolina. Most of the memorable moments for Kathy affected her personally, such as somebody offering her $100 for her belt.There was no comment on whether she accepted. “If you get my attention, be ready and know what you want. Have your money and your card out and don’t close out every time. It slows everything down. Also, we [bartenders] most likely do have a boyfriend or a girlfriend, or if we don’t we will probably tell you we do. Don’t hit on the bartenders,” said Kathy. Kathy’s manager Chris used to work at Crocodile Rocks, a dueling piano bar in Columbia, where he witnessed a couple having sex on a piano while the store was closed. More recently, at Ink n Ivy, he handled a situation where a man defecated in his pants, went to the women’s room, discarded his underwear in the trash can and put his pants back on. He proceeded to sit back down at the bar, but as the stench was obviously unbearable, was kicked out immediately.

November 2017

MEG, BURN’S ALLEY

Last but not least is Meg, a 30 year old bartender at Burn’s Alley. She has been a bartender for about five years with every bit of that time working out of the Charleston area. She is originally from Camden, South Carolina and knows how to handle herself in tough situations. She’s seen her fair share of bar violence and has even had a guy swing at her for cutting his drinks off. Her favorite moment at the bar was when the Cubs won the World Series. She had a lot of Chicago regulars and everyone was just extra excited that night. Once again, her advice to the average customer is to know what they want to drink before getting her attention. Meg loves bartending and has met some of her best friends through the occupation. She enjoys making “Bloody Marys” the most, but prefers Jameson when it comes time to kick back and relax. Bartending is a profession that requires a plethora of skills and the ability to multitask in high-stress situations. However, along with their work comes the opportunity for them to meet many different kinds of people and make lasting connections through these experiences. Bartenders, whether young or old, male or female, are all unique individuals with their own take on the job. No matter where you go, you will never find a bartender with the exact same views and stories as the last. All you have to do is listen.

YOUR THOUGHTS

What did you say?

WE COLLECTED 100 RESPONSES FROM A SURVEY ABOUT WHAT STUDENTS AT THE COLLEGE THINK ABOUT EATING (AND DRINKING) OUT. by BRADLEY HARRISON photo by HANNAH BRODER

How much do you want to spend for dinner?

47 Percent of the the students wanted to spent between $10 and $20 on a meal, while 45 percent wanted to spend less than $10. Less than $10! Where are these people eating downtown?

2 How often do you eat out a week?

75 Percent of students eat out once or twice, while 16 percent do it 3 or more times a week. Perhaps this number will rise following the culinary discoveries found in this magazine.

33 Percent of students say the price of a restaurant is their first consideration, while the same amount say wanting to try a new place is their second criteria.

How do you decide where to 80 Restaurants eat?

have opened in the Charleston area this year alone, so y’all are in luck.

What’s your favorite lunch spot close to campus?

Caviar & Bannanas was the top choice, winning 23 percent of the vote, while Persimmon came in second with 16 percent. Other not-so-noticeable write-ins were like, Chipotle, and duh, Moe’s.

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YOUR THOUGHTS

Students overwhelmingly voted Kudu as their favorite coffee shop, with 36 percent of the vote. Even more unsurprisingly, Starbucks came in second with 28 percent.

What is your favorite coffee shop?

Tricera and Black Tap were third and fourth, with 14 percent and 8 percent of the vote respectively. However, the best write in response was for Brown’s Court, which was actually already on the ballot.

Chipotle or Moe’s?

55.56 Pecent for duh, Moe’s and 44.44 percent for like, Chipotle. We have a winner, folks.

One person skipped this question and ruined the whole numbers.

What is your favorite dive bar?

Burn’s Alley Tavern won this this poll with 30 percent of the vote, while Upperdeck Tavern came in second with 17 percent and Rec Room a close third with 16 percent. Maybe Dr. Del Mastro of the Spanish Department was on to something when he moved Tertulia to Burn’s.

10 November 2017

What is your favorite spot to get Sushi?

What is your favorite dance bar?

What is your favorite dessert shop?

O-Ku won this vote handily with 28 percent, while Tasty Thai & Sushi came in second with 20 percent of the vote. CO, Sushi Blue and Fire were other favorites, while the most common write in was “None.” Two people even responded with the exact phrase “I hate sushi.”

Kaminsky’s was the clearest favorite of this entire survey, winning 60 percent of the vote. But hey, don’t let that you from trying other places. Carmella’s, Christophe Chocolatier and let’s not forget Jeni’s are all excellent choices as well.

Mynt was the favorite with 20 percent of the vote, while Prohibition and Republic tied for second with 16 percent. One student wrote in “I hate dancing why would I go dancing please don’t make me go dancing,” and it’s possible that’s how we all really feel.

Chef

FEATURES

: deconstructed

At a corner table in the darkened, slate-colored interior of his restaurant, Joshua Walker sat down across from me with the easy, bored grace of a long distance runner or a musician who’s survived a lot of crowd surfing. Walker is the co-owner and executive chef of the popular pan-Asian eatery Xiao Bao Biscuit, located at the corner of Rutledge and Spring. We were also joined by Alex Yellan, the chef de cuisine and owner of a grin like a straight-razor. Before I go on, let me confess: I was a skeptic. I love food, but I tend not to overthink it. Tasting menus and wine pairings don’t thrill me. I have yet to get a kick out of anything “foraged” and when I encounter something “deconstructed,” my first instinct is usually to reconstruct it. Likewise, the world of professional chefs holds little fascination for me. Despite significant progress, the industry remains very much a boys club and I resent the way men have professionalized and glorified something women have done, with no credit, for millenia – putting food on the table. Prior to this interview, I did not believe that chefs are artists – Walker and Yellan proved me wrong. They approach each dish and business practice with the creativity, adaptability and authenticity of a fine artist. In a city brimming with Food Network hotspots and Top Chef wannabes, an experience of food as art is both warm and refreshing. Here is my case for why we should

by SIG JOHANNES

pay more attention – and respect – to Xiao Bao’s restaurateurs as artists. They don’t settle for inspiration from a single source. Walker and Yellan’s food draws on a diverse array of source material, without ever feeling too derivative. Their dishes “riff” on everything from local ingredients, to the dish that defined an overseas trip, to nostalgic foods from childhood, said Walker. “[Our food is] definitely a combination of things that are new and exciting, mixed with things that we find comforting and just delicious,” said Yellan. They are more preoccupied with results than labels. Xiao Bao’s menu has one section for seasonally inspired dishes and one section for classics. Classics encompass everything from Sichuanese Map Dou Fu to Thai Som Tum Salad. There is no urgency to fit cleanly into one genre or another. “We’ve always called the food here Asian comfort food,” said Walker. “All the dishes are listed with their country of origin. In that sense, it’s really pan-Asian. It’s not Asian fusion, it’s not mixing different Asian cultures.” Walker prides himself on the kitchen’s ability to stay true to cultural form without being shackled to one

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FEATURES recipe. “That might mean using ingredients that they don’t have in Asia, but we have in Charleston. That might mean we’re taking inspiration and making some kind of twist,” he said. Walker and Yellan are currently working towards the opening of a second restaurant, Tu. While planning dishes for this new endeavor, they haven’t been shy to move away from more definitive cultural references. “We have a dish that was inspired by a kid’s pasta, which is just butter and pasta. We’ve done a number of things to make that more interesting, more diverse, and more unique. A lot of the food, it didn’t necessarily have such a clear inspiration or such a clear reference point,” said Walker. Yellan explained that this open process can be time-intensive, but very worth it. “It takes time because it’s so openframed and it’s not under the bookends of ‘this is an Asian dish,’” he said. Moving towards taste rather than labels yields some incredibly creative results for the pair. One dessert in the works for Tu is a taro root pie with a saltine cracker crust – local, inventive and just familiar enough. They are enthusiastically collaborative. As executive chef, Walker envisions the restaurant as a whole: Is the menu working? Is the staff running well? What kind of music is playing? How is the lighting? “You can walk in any restaurant and tell whether it’s chef owned,” said Walker. A sense of love and personal investment permeates the entire experience, not just the food on the plate. “Obviously restaurants are a business and they need to succeed, but we try to be a bit more punk-rock about the whole thing and have our own style, our own attitude, from the look and the music you play to the vibe and feel of the space,” he said. As chef de cuisine, Yellan focuses more on the kitchen and making sure everything is running perfectly – but it’s not as distinct as that. “As far as generating ideas, things tend

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to be very collaboratively based,” said Yellan. The restaurant thrives on a team-mentality with open meetings. “We have intelligent conversations about what we’re doing, why we’re doing it, and everyone can bring their idea to the board,” said Walker. “There’s no black and white. There’s a lot of blurred lines.” Uniqueness is vital, but quality is the ultimate measure of success. Walker and Yellan are committed to the authenticity and unique flavors of their food, but they never seek novelty for the sake of novelty. “We’re not trying to put people out and make them uncomfortable,” said Yellan. Unique food isn’t always good food, and Walker is careful not to lose sight of that. “That’s the hard part, it’s a balance like everything in life,” said Walker. “You want to be unique but you don’t want to alienate people. We want the dining experience here to be fun.” Both men acknowledged that although the quality of food in Charleston restaurants is very high, the same Southern flavors have been copied time and time again. The balance Xiao Bao aims for is new and creative, but straightforwardly delicious. “A lot of chefs get caught up in intellectualizing food and overthinking food. For me, it’s easier to see the balance that needs to be in place. It’s ingredients, it’s technique, but above everything it’s deliciousness.” It could be the sharpness of ginger, or an unexpected note of heat – the flavors at Xiao Bao have the power to transport Charlestonians to China or Thailand, and a place that resides in Walker and Yellan’s characters. Just as cooking can move you to new experiences, writing provides a boundless excuse to go up and talk to interesting people who otherwise wouldn’t give you the time of day. This pleasure is even keener when, like me, you have entered the situation with a misconception. Walker and Yellan’s work is a testament to the artistry of the restaurant world, and the ability of good food to change stubborn minds.

FEATURES

You’ve Be by SHANNON MURRAY

Senior Holly Bishop, a server at Carolina Ale House, looked to her left and right at Rivers Green, making sure no one was listening, leaned in, softened her voice and said, “I’m always going to encourage [my customers] to buy a bigger drink, not because I want to be [their] friend, but because I want more money.” The good, bad and terrifying truths of serving are often left unsaid. The restaurant industry is no joke – it’s fastpaced, stressful and sometimes awkward, but if you’re lucky the pay is great. Behind the seamless execution of fake laughs and forced smiles, waiting tables is one of the most difficult entry level jobs and most customers have no idea what it’s really like. Bishop has worked her serving job at Carolina Ale House for almost a year. She also juggles a preschool teaching job, as well as being vice president of the Outdoors Club. Bishop had spark and positivity while talking about her job, but at times her smile seemed to fade as she mentioned the topic of tips. She says that she wishes she could emphasize to her customers that she only gets paid two dollars an hour and she really relies on their tips. She once “picked up five checks and three out of the five were for zero dollars.” What some customers don’t know is that servers usually don’t make minimum wage. However, if their tips don’t add up to the federal minimum hourly wage of $7.25, then the employer must make up the difference. Normally, servers at a relatively busy restaurant receive checks of zero dollars biweekly. “Some nights you can walk out with $20 and some night you can walk out with $200, so it’s really hit or miss,” said Bishop.

Sophomore Zach Nash, a server and floor manager at Sticky Fingers, agrees with Bishop, saying that he will “work from four to 11 p.m. and walk out with $40.” When asked about recommending higher priced meals in order to get a larger tip, he said “it’s kind of mean but it’s the way we survive in the business,” he said “more expensive food is usually better tasting food.” Tips are not the only issue servers have to deal with. The atmosphere of a restaurant kitchen is like no other. If you have never had the chance to wait tables, you probably don’t understand the dynamic of a kitchen restaurant. Unlike the movies, most kitchens are not occupied by chefs with tall white hats cooking veal topped with mango chutney and shallots. Kitchen staff are their own species. “Front staff and our back staff pretty much have two different identities,” said Nash. In some restaurants, the back of the house has been known to be blatantly degrading, aggressive and sexist. It is truly intimidating and complex to get used to the frantic jig of the dinner rush and the new ‘language’ that is being spat faster than you can think. Phrases such as on the fly, heard, two top, can I get a runner, going home, in the weeds, 86’ and so many more are part of the kitchen lingo that is understood by all of the staff to ensure a quick and seamless experience for the customer. Bishop shined a big smile when she said, “I’ve gotten really close to my coworkers.” Because you’re with the same people for hours at a time, it’s very easy to make lasting friendships that you would not have made otherwise. Servers are surrounded by all different types of customers. Some may be world travelers, others congressmen. Bishop insists that her “favorite

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FEATURES

en Served thing about waiting tables is because it’s really cool to interact with different people” and Nash adds that he “[has] served people from Brazil … United Kingdom and Australia.” What the customer doesn’t know won’t hurt them, right? Having serving experience, I’ll go ahead and truthfully answer some questions right now: 1) No, the lemons have not been cleaned, and the server just touched it with their bare hands - probably not having washed their hands all day. 2) The restaurant most likely does not have any fresh veggies tonight – they have all been frozen for weeks. 3) No, your server did not spit in your food, but if you call them darling or sweetheart one more time, they might tell the chef to slightly overcook your filet. Terrifying right? The issue of referring to someone as the help is long out of date, so the way servers are treated as inferior is confusing. Yes, they are getting paid to do their job, but that does not mean they should be treated any differently. Understandably, the relationship between customer and server can be awkward and impersonal due to the fast-paced, superficial dialogue and power dynamic. From a server's point of view, a rush makes it very difficult to connect with customers. Nash explained that, “the worst thing is when people order like you’re a robot and just say ‘I want this and I want this’ and that is the entire interaction you have with them...when the tables actually want to talk to you and think of you as an actual person instead of just telling you what they want to eat [it’s a better experience].”

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Bishop scratched her head in thought, leaned back in her chair, pulled one knee up to her chest and said, “I know serving is not what I want to do with my life.” The business can bleed you dry like a leech, and there are often times where servers feel like throwing their aprons and non-slip shoes into the wind. The moment when table 11 needs Diet Coke, table 14’s food is up, the computer system just went down, someone just shattered a glass at the table and you have to make change with an hour wait at the door is usually that moment -- the moment of pure and utter panic, or otherwise known as a Friday evening. Then, less than 24 hours later, it is time to repeat the process for Saturday night rush. Are all of the snarky customers and and stress worth it? Somedays it's worth every rude remark, but the next day it can be somewhat difficult to pull yourself out of the rubble and dust off a rush and choose to bring tabl9 the ketchup they asked for over five minutes ago.

TEST KITCHEN we tried it first, so you don’t have to

Cooking on a College Budget by MADISON LING and ZAINAB DOSSAJI photos by HALEY BECKEL

As the streets of Charleston go dark, classes and coffee shops are shutting down for the day. Students fan out across the city, returning to their homes. The familiar stomach rumble presents the typical college student with the dreaded question: to go to the grocery store like a grownup or just eat out again? College students juggle limited time and finances, as well as skyrocketing stress level. With very little time left over for grocery shopping and cooking, every student has those days when they eat out for every meal and then feel guilty.

Grocery shopping and meal planning can create a huge dent in a student’s bank account – not to mention their waistline. A little preparation can provide delicious, nutritious food all week and even leave some time leftover for relaxation. Here are some recipes that are time efficient and wallet-friendly for the student constantly on-thego.

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TEST KITCHEN Smoky Quinoa and Black Bean Salad 30 min. prep 20 min. cook 4 servings, $1.25 per serving Ingredients 1 cup uncooked quinoa 1/4 cup olive oil 1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 1/2 tsp smoked paprika 1/4 tsp cumin 1/8 tsp garlic powder

1/2 tsp salt Freshly cracked pepper 15 oz can black beans 2 bell peppers (preferably red, yellow, or orange) 2 green onions

Rinse the quinoa well. Allow excess water to drain, then place the quinoa in a sauce pot. Add 1.75 cups water and bring it to a boil. Once it reaches a boil, turn the heat down to low and let it simmer for 15 minutes. After that, turn the heat off and let it rest for 5 minutes, without removing the lid. Then fluff with a fork and allow the quinoa to cool. While the quinoa is cooking, prepare the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, smoked paprika, cumin, garlic powder, salt and freshly cracked pepper. Set the dressing aside. Rinse and drain the black beans. Dice the bell peppers, and slice the green onions. Combine the beans, bell peppers, green onions, and quinoa in a large bowl. Pour the dressing over top, and stir until everything is evenly mixed and coated in dressing.

Lemon Pepper Chicken with Orzo 10 min. prep 30 min. cook 4 servings, $1.34 per serving Ingredients 4 chicken thighs or breasts 5 tsp lemon pepper seasoning, divided 1 tbsp canola oil 2 cloves garlic

2.5 cups chicken broth 1/4 bunch parsley 1.5 cups orzo 2 oz feta, crumbled

Season the chicken with 1 tablespoon of lemon pepper per piece. Heat a large, deep skillet (needs to be able to hold over 2 cups of liquid) over medium heat. Add chicken. Brown on each side (about 5 minutes on each side). While the chicken is browning, mince garlic and chop the bunch of parsley. Remove the chicken from the skillet. Drain excess fat and turn the heat down to low. Add garlic and saute for about a minute. Then add chicken broth and stir to dissolve browned garlic. Add half the parsley, 1 teaspoon of lemon pepper and the orzo to the skillet. Stir to combine. Return the chicken to the skillet. Cover the skillet and turn the heat up to high. Let broth boil and then turn the heat down to low. Let simmer for 10 - 12 minutes or until the orzo is tender and most of the broth is absorbed. If there is too much liquid, allow it to simmer without the lid for a few minutes. Sprinkle feta and the remaining parsley over the top and serve.

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THE LAST BITE before you go...

America Runs on Aramark by HANNAH ADDIS

How much do you know about the company that has a monopoly on the food of the Collegeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s campus? Aramark oversees every aspect of dining and food service on campus. Liberty, Bistro, Stern Center, Chick-fil-a, Market 159 and Starbucks all operate under the careful management of Aramark. Any and all hiring, cleaning, uniforms and meals are controlled by this large, faceless company. Every event on campus must be catered through Aramark or organized with their permission and input. Aramark runs an effective monopoly on College of Charlestonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food availability. But Aramark is a business of customer service, not food. They venture into a variety of services to benefit every customer. They make uniforms, perform landscape maintenance and provide locations with retail merchandise. Aramark supplies medical equipment to hospitals and manage/provide janitorial staff to all their locations. So what qualifies them to manage and produce all of the food available to college students on campus? Aramark administers food to prisons, hospitals and universities alike. The company prizes quantity over quality, as seen in 2015 when the company made national headlines for serving soggy and burnt hot dogs at a Kansas City Royals game, violating several health inspection codes. Even prisoners of a correctional facility in Michigan spoke up in 2015 about the poor quality of food, which was sometimes served containing maggots. Of the 500 universities across the United States employing Aramark for food services, several have left in the past several years including University of Houston, Florida State University and the University of Chicago. Past polls of College of Charleston students revealed that the majority wish the meals were simpler, more diverse and cheaper. For a student living on campus without a car, grocery stores and cheap food are hard to come by. Local restaurants can be dangerously expensive. Data from the U.S. Department of Education shows that the average college charged about $4,300 for a 19 meal-per-week contract. On the basis of 15 weeks per semester, the average College of Charleston student spends $10.22 per meal. The Bureau of Labor Statistics says the average cost of food for Americans living on their own is a little less than $4 a meal â&#x20AC;&#x201C; dining out included, meaning college kids on campus are spending almost triple the amount they would without a meal plan at all. Aramark took several steps in the right direction the past few years, expanding their options for those with allergies or dietary restrictions and expanding their sustainability practices through composting and purchasing more local foods. They also provide a large amount of on-campus jobs for students in need of work, but even these benefits can only go so far. Aramark is a company whose sole purpose lies in making money in the fastest and easiest way possible.

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THE LAST BITE

Let Them Eat Cake by SARAH KAMPHUIS photos by RACHAEL LOLAR

Death by Chocolate or Cannoli cake? We’ve rounded up the top four dessert places in the Holy City so the hardest decision left is vanilla or chocolate. Carmella’s Chic decor and chandeliers direct your attention to the dessert display. Filled with cakes, fruit tarts and mousse of all kinds, the case will captivate you and make your mouth water. If you can tear your eyes away, scan the menu full of both dinner and a huge selection of homemade gelatos. Carmella’s is famous for their ice cream paninis. How they put ice cream in a panini press and keep it frozen will remain a delicious secret. On top of all the sweet treats, there is a bar full of dessert cocktails and wine. So you can grab dinner, dessert and a drink all in the same place. Sounds like a win-win-win. Kaminsky’s Small, dim, warm and cozy – perfect for small groups or a date. Right when you walk in, there is a display full of cakes and pies made fresh daily. The bakers do not have a set menu so the options change frequently. They are open until 1 a.m. Sunday through Thursday and 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday, so you will have plenty of time to make up your mind. On busy nights, there can be a bit of a wait, but it is definitely worth your time. If you’re not up for that, there is a to-go line so you can take your dessert home and eat in your sweatpants.

chocolate raspberry will never go out of style. There are also gluten free, with vegan options baked everyday. For the over 21 crowd, they have After-Dark cupcakes infused with alcohol. Recently, they have added Cake Shakes to their menu, which are cupcakes and ice cream blended together. And for a little more fun, you can make them with their After Dark cupcakes. They’ve always got you covered, no silverware required. Christophe Artisan Chocolatier Walking into this adorable chocolate shop is like walking into France, but only a block off King Street. They have French press coffee among their drink selections, and even homemade ice cream. After picking your treat and coffee, choose between seating upstairs or on their patio. The patio has an adorable mural that makes you feel as though you are sipping coffee at a Parisian street cafe. The macaroons are to die for. Their most popular flavor is the sea salt caramel, but they also have chocolate hazelnut, lavender, orange and raspberry. If you’re looking for a sweet experience, try one of their classes. A baker will instruct you on how to make various desserts, including Christmas treats and macaroons. So there you have it, our top four dessert places. From cupcakes to cakes to ice cream paninis and macaroons, we’ve found them all. So the next time you’re craving something sweet, try out one of these places and treat yourself to the best desserts Charleston has to offer.

Cupcake DownSouth Whoever said cupcakes were a fad has never been to Cupcake DownSouth. A bright, colorful bakery with cupcake flavors ranging from classic red velvet to white November 2017

SIG JOHANNES managing editor BRADLEY HARRISON creative director TIA DYE design assistant MCKAYLA CONAHAN opinion editor MARA MCCLOY features editor MADISON LING sports editor NICK RODRIGUEZ blogs editor HUNTER BEAUDOIN news editor ZAINAB DOSSAJI editor in chief