We’ve long known that a healthy diet of travel should and would become an integral component of our lives together. Now we’re older, travel is even more important.
Our travel philosophy is rooted in a mutual belief of the adage “I want to see the world before I leave it” – a notion which is even more relevant as we age. And in retirement, when we raised questions about a certain travel lifestyle fitting into an equally certain retirement budget, along came TVNZ's 9’s Travel Guides – possibly the greatest and most appropriate gift travel addicts like us could have
received. Our wanderlust has never abated.
For a successful trip, planning is vital, even if someone else does it. As community members of Citro, we discovered their association with Designer Journeys and the kernel of an idea to take a trip to Japan soon developed into a travel quest. These days we're open to inviting professionals (who have more knowledge and skill than us) to guide us through what we once pleasantly laboured over.
Understanding the concept of Designer Journeys is easy. They have a network of local designers who curate an insider travel experience that’s perfectly you. Tell them what you want, and they’ll tailor it for you. Simple.
Why we love them is clear. They’re totally charming, their process is easy, they know exactly what they’re talking about, they actually listen to you, they’re totally on point with their travel product and they treat you like an intelligent adult who’s cleverly engaged a professional rather than one carrying the weight of the world on his or her own shoulders (sorry, little travel pun there).
The itineraries on their website were appropriate for us, but as the company’s name suggests, they not only could, but wanted to design a specific holiday according to our desires. So, we called them and their representative Shion Northey helped us out.
We gave Shion a brief snapshot of ourselves, what we wanted, a budget and how we wanted our holiday in Japan to look.
Really, it was about as simple as that. On top of the perfectly crafted itinerary that dropped into our inbox a few days later, we had the added bonus of 5% off the trip. That would be a $607.10 boost to our spending money budget (pleasing the shopper in our party of two).
Come along on our adventure and see for yourself what a wonderful experience Japan offers.
Kevin and Janetta
Chureito Pagoda and Mt. Fuji in the spring, Fujiyoshida, Japan
Our brief to Designer Journeys
“Accommodation is always important to us – we’re too old to stay in a two star.
We want city experiences, although a few glimpses of the Japanese countryside would be good too.
We literally want to taste Japan as well as see it – some interesting culinary experiences would round the trip out.
Japan has a gift for the 'quirky', so we want a bit of fun on the wacky side - find us a few silly things to do.
We also want to see some of Japan’s iconic landmarks, however we’ve visited enough temples for a lifetime and only need a ‘temple booster’, so not too many of them, thanks. But let’s throw in a bullet train or two and a look at Mt Fuji…”
Japandesign by
We arrived in Tokyo and were met at Haneda International Airport arrivals hall by Amondine, our Designer Journeys ‘designer’. Amo, as she’s affectionately known, would be available to us for the entire ten days. She has lived in Japan for 17 years and has over 15 years experience helping people like us explore the best bits of Japan. It’s fair to say she knows all the hidden treasures.
This was more than her job, it was her mission to ensure we felt like we were the only tourists who’d ever visited Japan. Instantly, we knew we were
1–3
Tokyo
in good hands and the safety and security of being ‘looked after’ gave us great confidence from the get-go.
First stop: Tokyo – the Westernlooking, Japanese-thinking megalopolis that’s reinvented the traditional concept of an Asian city. Whatever the west throws at Japan, Tokyo delivers a fun and exceedingly clever response. Movieworld Tokyo-style is anime, McDonalds is sushi and a global acceptance of grunge is retorted with immaculate cleanliness and order – a state that can shock seasoned travellers with its perfection.
Everything just works in Tokyo and for a huge city of 47 million people it comes as a surprise that compliance to civic rules forms a foundation upon which the city ticks.
Tokyo is an economic miracle, but paradoxically a total bargain right now given the weakness of the yen and the favourable exchange rate against our dollar - perhaps one of the reasons why Japan is one of the most popular destinations for Kiwis right now.
It’s also a sexy, exciting city with modern buildings, a brilliant underground train network and a generous proliferation of restaurants, clubs and izakayas (atmospheric little
bars that are everywhere).
And let’s talk about the people. Tokyo is arguably the most civilised city in the world. Kind, welcoming and extremely tolerant of tourists, the locals collectively carry a sophistication derived from a confidence borne in national pride.
Tokyo boasts a wacky side too and, on brief, we were taken to the Harajuku district, specifically Takeshita Street where conventions are abandoned, and dizzy craziness embraced. The street is an insurrection of colour and movement and although we were undoubtedly the oldest visitors by at least 50 years, we were buoyed by the exuberance.
Sitting on the floor of migpig cafe, we became the adopted grandparents to a roomful of mini pigs, the size of little terriers. These cute little mites sat on our laps, vied for our attention seeking tickles and scratches and kept us entertained with an overdose of cuteness.
Fifty metres down the road we again went to the wild side by playing with a bevy of otters, so acrobatically mischievous we wanted to sign adoption papers (but we were just a little concerned about explaining their
presence to the border force on return to New Zealand).
Under Amo’s guidance we moved from the craziness of Takeshita Street to the more ‘grown up’ district of Shimbashi, where dozens of sushi bars and izakayas cater to the local office workers (salarymen) after a full day’s work. Blending in with the locals, we downed a few beers, stood up at sushi bars and ate local dishes, savouring the experience and food. Gaining a sense of ‘living like locals’ delivered an authenticity only achievable with expert on-the-spot knowledge.
Eating sushi (which we did with abandon) just wasn’t enough – we wanted to make our own, so the following day we were taken to a private room in a secret restaurant
(shh… you’ll have to ask our designer Amo the name) and under the tutorship of a sushi master learned the fine craft of sushi making – an experience we’re not going to forget quickly.
As we’d requested an emphasis on food and drink, we were then off to the city’s premier fish market Tsukiji, which brimmed with fresh seafood served in an array of different restaurants.
The excitement of thousands of people buzzing through the laneways and streets made this the place to be. We were definitely getting our foodie fix and the Japanese appreciation for beauty defines the market. We soon realised that Japan just doesn’t do ‘ugly’.
Senso-ji temple in Tokyo, Japan
Broadening the day was a visit to Asakusa, Tokyo’s oldest district which, if we hadn’t already been fully dipped in Japanese culture, ensured a total immersion. Here was yet more delightful and unique food to satisfy our sweet tooth from an abundance of casual eateries.
If we were to develop any form of food addiction, it would be here in Asakusa where we discovered melon pan (or melon bun). This delicious briochelike pastry-bread hybrid stuffed with matcha ice cream is a sweet treat that was seemingly created just to break Japanese culinary protocol. As a rule, eating on the street is frowned upon in Japanese culture but when it comes to melon pan, anything goes. We stood in the street, silently devouring our sweet bread along with the rest of the local population who’d developed their addiction long before us. Superb.
We capped off the day with the type of experience we expected from the technological creativity that Japan so boldly presents to the world. teamLab Borderless gave us a dive into the world of hi-tech art installations.
Taking a prime position in the swank district of Azabu, this contemporary art museum delivered a mind-blowing exhibition like no other. Borderless electronic artwork surrounded us, guiding us through a labyrinth of massive rooms and we were left amazed at how technology can be merged with art. The experience meant we finished our time in Tokyo with the ‘new’ Japan juxtaposed against the ‘old’ Japan we’d spent the rest of our visit loving.
Kevin and Janetta’s Tokyo highlights
• Harajuku district
• migpig cafe
• Shimbashi district
• Tsukiji fish market
• Asakusa district
• Azabi district
• teamLab Borderless
Further Tokyo sightseeing
• Senso-ji
• Harmonica Yokocho
• Imperial Palace
• Tokyo Skytree
• Shibuya Crossing
• Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
• Golden Gai, Shinjuku district
Shibuya Crossing
teamLab
A view of the tea plantations and Mt. Fuji seen from Fuji City, Shizuoka
Our time in Tokyo was the curtain raiser on a four-act play. We soon moved on to Shizuoka, travelling at 300 kph on an immaculately clean bullet train.
There's nothing like a quick visit to a whisky distillery in the mountains to welcome you to a new region. Our driver took us through some iconic countryside to arrive at Gaiaflow Shizuoka Distillery, where we dutifully sampled their crafted wares. We were the only visitors to the distillery that day, making our discovery feel especially indulgent. As afternoon began to slide into evening, we arrived at the Nippondaira Hotel, our accommodation for the night.
Sitting in the shadow of the country’s iconic Mt Fuji, we stared and stared from our balcony, determined to make the mountain appear from the haze of an inconvenient and rainy fog. For a brief moment, Fuji obliged and popped her head out to give us a small glimpse.
Although bashful and reticent to appear in all her majesty, the symmetrically perfect form of the mountain could be seen through the light veil of fog and cloud as if it were there just to tease. Even in shadowy
form, we saw her size, her dominance over the already beautiful landscape and her drawcard attraction that has compelled visitors for generations.
For us, Shizuoka was about one thing and one thing only - Mt Fuji. However, our hotel impressed us as much as the famed mount. From the panoramic windows of our incredibly generous room, an impeccable lawn led to gentle vegetation which then introduced the harbour, ringed by the city of Shizuoka. In the further distance, Mt Fuji dominated and took centre stage in this visual drama.
Reluctantly, we left the visual display of Fuji and her fellow cast members for a spectacular dinner in the fine dining restaurant of the hotel. On our return to our room, the night time vista was just as dramatic and memorable with a glitter of lights rimming the harbour and turning on a spectacular show. The Nippondaira is the sort of hotel you just don't want to leave.
After a night of luxury, we continued to the city we associate with Japan’s cultural heritage – Kyoto.
Kevin and Janetta’s Shizuoka highlights
• Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train
• Gaiaflow Shizuoka Distillery
• Mount Fuji
• Nippondaira Hotel
Further Shizuoka sightseeing
• Shiraito Falls
• Sumpu Castle Park
• Shizuoka Sengen Shrine
• Fugetsuro Gardens
• Aoba Oden Alley
• Tanuki Lake
• Yume no Tsuribashi Suspension Bridge
Shiraito Falls
Kyoto is where you get your temple fix, your tea ceremony ritual, geisha sighting, Zen garden Instagram moments and your cultural toe-dip. It’s Japan’s cultural and spiritual capital, now the epicentre of the nation’s booming tourism juggernaut and the antithesis of Tokyo.
If there was just one city to visit on a cultural excursion to Japan, it would undoubtedly be Kyoto. Devoid of obvious commercialism, historical beauty is the essence of this traditional city. Its uniqueness is etched in the buildings, temples and gardens, all gently reclining on a preoccupation with cultural preservation. Our itinerary in this magnificent city focused on a catalogue of heritage icons.
Apart from your Designer Journeys designer, a good pair of walking shoes is your best travelling companion in Kyoto - it's definitely worth seeing on foot. The Gion district with its traditional buildings, fine gardens and distinctly Japanese shops gives more than a hint of what life was like here centuries ago. You could be excused
for thinking time had somehow been placed on pause as you walk the paved corridors of Japanese life.
No visit to Japan is complete without experiencing a tea ceremony. As we’d enjoyed one several years ago on a previous trip, we asked Designer Journeys for one with a twist and were so impressed with what was delivered. This was no ‘jiggle a teabag in a cup affair’. We were ushered into a magnificent timber tea house called Ryurei Tea Room "SABI" and sat mesmerised as our young (way too cool for school, complete with man bun, you know the type) tea master plied his craft.
The experience was, to say the least, spiritual in more ways than one. We tasted 5 different types of tea, some with a curated alcohol mix, each paired with an exquisite dessert and all delicately and beautifully presented. While some might consider a tea
ceremony a little dull and formal, this particular version was anything but. It truly delivered a unique twist on tradition.
Kyoto is a city a traveller just can't get enough of. The following day we caught a local train to the Arashiyama district for a full-on exposure to Japanese heritage. Temples of sheer beauty, imposing forests of giant bamboo, moss-covered gardens of extraordinary design and structure, and the delightful Jizo statues meant we came away with a camera full of breathtaking images.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Kyoto
DAY 5–7
Kyoto
Kevin and Janetta’s Kyoto highlights
• Gion district
• Ryurei Tea Room SABI
• Arashiyama district
• Arashiyama bamboo grove
• Fushimi Inari Taisha
• Otagi Nenbutsu-Ji Temple
• Gio-Ji
Further Kyoto sightseeing
• Togetsu-kyo Bridge
• Kiyomizu-dera
• Higashiyama district
• Daigo-ji temple
• Tetsugaku no Michi
• Nishiki Market
• Tōfuku-ji
• Iwatayama Monkey Park
• Kinkaku-ji temple
• Ginkaku-ji temple
• Sagano Torokko scenic railway
• Kameyama-koen Park
• Okochi-Sanso Villa
• Katsura Rikyu Imperial Villa
Yasaka Pagoda and Sannen Zaka Street, Kyoto
Kevin and Janetta’s Osaka highlights
• Kyo-Train Garaku
• Osaka Castle
• Dotonbori district
Further Osaka sightseeing
• Harukas 300
• Shitenno-ji Temple
• teamLab Botanical Garden
• Universal Studios
• Tempozan Ferris Wheel
• Shinsekai neighbourhood
• Kuromon Ichiba Market
• Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan
• Minoo Park
• Sika deer at Nara (day trip)
DAY 8–9
Osaka
Dotonbori shopping street
We moved onto Osaka, Japan’s third-largest city and a grungier, less-preened alternative to the rest of the country.
Our transport mode was not what we expected. We were told we’d be travelling to Osaka by train but had no idea that the train would, in fact, be a rolling garden - Japanese style of course.
The Kyo-Train Garaku was the most amazing train we have ever been on and it needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated. I don’t want to give too many details, but let’s just say it was a beautiful (and botanical) way to travel.
If Japan had its version of grunge, it would be called Osaka. It’s not painted with the prettiness and order of Tokyo or the elegance of Kyoto, but then again, it doesn’t need to be.
Big on personality, Osaka spits the grit more than the rest of the country and is comfortable in its own skin. It’s also known as ‘Japan’s kitchen’ and delivers a foodie fix better than Uber Eats!
From a foodie perspective, we thought the greatest find in all of Japan was a dish we ate in Osaka called
okonomiyaki - a delicious explosion of flavour and texture served on the teppanyaki hotplate embedded in our table. As the only westerners in the restaurant we felt totally at ease (and just a little smug) at so effortlessly negotiating one of the local cuisine’s most renowned dishes. We can still taste the unique flavours.
As well as memorable meals, the thousands of izakayas in every nook of the city offer hundreds of little bites to accompany a beer or sake. Think Spanish tapas with its own identity. This is Osaka.
In line with the ‘quirkiness’ component of our trip, we were then treated to another unique food experience. Japanese eateries are famous for displaying their menus in plastic form outside their doors. It was now our challenge to make them.
We entered what we'd describe as a laboratory or artist’s studio and spent an hour creating plastic versions of Japanese food. Perfect. This was not an activity on the tourist trail and required Amo’s local knowledge to eke out. While the product of our creativity may have been questionable, the undertaking was pure joy.
Osaka is certainly not a stitched-up city - it’s chill, and compared to Tokyo, possibly considered Japan’s enfant terrible. The city still has a unique drawing power and its own share of attractions . The dominance of the Osaka Castle - the powerful symbol of Japan’s historic unity - and the fun and excitement of the Dotonbori district with its canals and Times Square-style freneticism kept us more than amused and sated as experienced travellers. We asked for some free time in the itinerary for independent exploring
and were rewarded with a raft of easy-to-reach retail, dining, drinking and sightseeing options.
For the entire duration of our adventure in Japan we were the only members of our group apart from Amo, our designer. As such, we could deviate from the itinerary when we felt the need. If we needed to rest, we would, if we wanted extra time at a certain place, we stayed, if we felt like breaking for a snack or a drink, we stopped. For the 9 days of our Japanese discovery, it was just our tour, our Japan… and with Amo, it was like travelling with a trusted friend.
We left Japan with some regret. Our trip was exactly what we ordered, but we wished it had been longer. While each day was loaded with activities and personal time that absolutely met our brief, we could easily have doubled our time there. More reason to return.
Cin cin, or in this case, 乾杯 kanpai!
Kevin and Janetta
Osaka Castle
Shizuoka
TOKYO, SHIZUOKA, KYOTO, OSAKA
Want to follow in Kevin & Janetta’s footsteps?
You can! Designer Journeys is offering you the same incredible trip and Citro community members will get 5% off.
Like Kevin and Janetta, you can customise your trip to include the activities you love, and nothing you don't. You’ll also travel with your own local designer who will take you to hidden gems and authentic experiences other travellers usually don’t get to experience.
Don’t miss this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit Japan in a way that feels perfect for you.
Get 5% off on Kevin & Janetta’s amazing 9-day Japan itinerary
Scan the QR code to see the customisable 9-Day Kevin & Janetta's Japan Adventure Watch Kevin & Janetta's highlights in this video
Easy ways to make your travel budget work harder
With the New Zealand dollar trading strongly against the yen, now is a great time to travel to Japan. You basically get even more bang for your buck in a country that has plenty of bangs to begin with. Better yet, you can stretch your travel dollar even further with a little insider know-how.
Words by Bron Maxabella
Train yourself
Train travel in Japan is next-level efficient, comfortable and convenient – and with a JR Pass it’s also incredibly affordable. It gives you unlimited travel
on Japan’s extensive nationwide rail system, including the lightning-fast Shinkansen (bullet train) and slower, more romantic vintage and steam carriers. You can choose from the budget ‘standard cars’ option or upgrade to a ‘green cars’ pass for a little extra comfort.
Budget your eats
You can get a quality meal in shokudō across Japan. These are casual eateries you can drop into any time of day – think ‘greasy spoon’ without the grease. Takeaway places, called tachigui, are even cheaper and you can stand and eat your meal at the counter. If you want something fancier, even upscale restaurants in the bigger cities offer a lunchtime service that is much cheaper than eating your main meal at dinner.
Hit the streets
But for the cheapest (and some say tastiest) way to eat in Japan, you can’t go past the food stalls that pop up at markets and festivals. It would be called ‘street food’ anywhere else, but Japan isn’t big on eating while walking, except in the dōtonbori areas of Osaka and Fukuoka. Instead, it’s worth seeking out similar vendors at daily food markets and special festivals. You can also generally find vendors near most train stations and unlike the usual offerings of pre-packaged sandwiches and stale meat pies, the food in Japan
will be carefully prepared, fresh and delicious. For a tiny sum you can sup on local favourites like okonomiyaki, yakitori, and yakisoba.
Slide into convenience
Another cheap way to eat your fill is at one of the many convenience stores (konbini) across Japan. While that may not sound appealing if your only experience is a 7-11, you’re in for a huge surprise. The sandwiches, rice balls and daily hot dishes at most konbini are amazingly good value for highquality food. Case in point, the late Anthony Bourdain described Lawson’s (one of the most popular convenience store chains) egg sandwich as “insanely delicious and incongruously addictive” in Parts Unknown.
Worship the temples
Temples and shrines in Japan are basically free. Some of the larger places may charge a fee to enter the buildings, but the gardens are open to everyone. Good options to visit include Sensō-ji in Tokyo, Sekizanzenin Temple in Kyoto and Shizuoka Sengen Jinja in Shizuoka.
Find museum marvels
No place on earth does museums like Japan. Whatever you’re into, trust us, there’s a museum in Japan dedicated to it. Where else would you find a museum solely dedicated to parasites, or kites, or cup noodles? All in Tokyo, all free to visit (although donations are appreciated).
Stroll the parks
Japan is known for its outstanding private gardens, but they do a fine public park as well – and most are free to visit. Grab a cheap meal from a street vendor and hit the nearest park for outstanding food and people watching. Notable parks to add to your list include Yoyogi Park in Tokyo, The Imperial Palace gardens in Kyoto, and Osaka Castle Park in Osaka. In winter many of Japan’s urban parks are lit with fairy lights for an extra dose of magic, so don’t stay away just because it’s cold.
Toji Temple, one of Kyoto's many UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Cooking takoyaki balls
BUDGET
See Japan for less
Even if Kevin & Janetta’s Japan trip is slightly out of your budget for now, you can still pack your bags and see Japan’s best. Thanks to our friends at Designer Journeys we’ve packaged up a slightly-shorter, slightly-simpler lower cost Japan holiday.
Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka
Rest assured, you’ll still get 24/7 destination support from a local guide and you’ll still benefit from Designer Journeys’ amazing attention to detail. Think of it as almost all the bang for less bucks.
Don’t miss this exciting opportunity to visit Japan in a way that fits both you and your budget.
Get 5% off on this 9-Day Japan Culture & Food Tour itinerary
Scan the QR code for a customisable and more affordable Japan holiday experience.
by 31 October 2024.
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Soar into Japan refreshed & ready
A good flight strategy will minimise jet lag so you can immerse yourself in everything Japan has to offer from the minute you arrive.
Words by Maddie Southall
Japan is one of the top holiday destinations from New Zealand for good reason.
Incredible culture, scenery, food and people have made it a crowd favourite for people from all over the world. From the natural beauty of Mount Fuji to the history of Kyoto’s ornate temples to the futuristic innovation
of Osaka and Tokyo, there is truly something here for everyone.
Which all sounds wonderful right? But there’s also the small matter of actually getting there…
How likely is jet lag based on the time difference?
Check the flight times box to the right to see how long your likely flying time will be. Plus, there’s only a 30 min to
3 hour time difference between New Zealand and Japan (depending on where you fly from). A manageable time difference means jet lag shouldn’t be too much of a problem, and it’ll be easy to keep in contact with family and friends back home.
Sky-high tips to fly comfy and healthy
If you’re worried about sitting on a plane for hours on end, let’s set you up with a game plan. There are plenty of ways to prioritise your comfort on an overseas trip.
Take care before you go
Travelling with an existing medical condition is usually totally doable, but can require some extra considerations along the way.
Book an appointment with your GP before your trip to ensure you have enough medication and ask about any extra precautions you should take. It’s also a good idea to get a doctor’s note detailing your condition and prescribed medications, confirming they're for personal use only. Pack your medication somewhere in your carry-on where you can easily reach it during the flight.
Walk your way to Tokyo
One of the best things you can do for your body on a long flight is to get up and move around regularly. This includes walking slowly up and down the aisle and around the cabin when appropriate, flexing your feet, and circling your ankles often when seated.
Health Direct recommends scheduling an appointment with your doctor before your trip if you’re at risk of blood clots or deep vein thrombosis or have had recent surgery. Same goes for if you’re prone to experiencing motion sickness or excess jet lag.
Japan-time is a good time
Since the time difference between New Zealand and Japan is only small, it will be fairly easy to adapt to local time. That said, there is one particular tip that will help you beat jet lag before you arrive: set your clock to Japan’s time zone as soon as you board your flight. The flight crew should already be all over this one, dimming the lights and feeding you on Japan-time to help your body adjust.
Snooze your way there
Speaking of sleep, do try to get some.
While sleeping in a chair is definitely not the same as settling down in a cosy bed (especially if you’re flying economy), do whatever you can to maximise sleep while on board.
So, no, your flight to Tokyo is not the perfect opportunity to binge every episode of White Lotus. Stick to a movie, a meal and maximum rest instead.
Keep drinking (sorry, not the fun kind)
While on the flight, make hydration a priority because it helps prevent jet lag and promotes healthy blood circulation. Drink plenty of water, and be mindful of your caffeine and alcohol consumption because these beverages can dehydrate you.
Bored or blessed?
Think of your upcoming long-haul flight as the perfect opportunity to enjoy the things you usually put off when life gets busy. This is a perfect time to read a bestseller, watch a movie, have a snooze, play solitaire, organise your photos on your phone, start a journal of your trip, or do something else you don’t usually have time for.
A good flight strategy will minimise jet lag so you can immerse yourself in everything Japan has to offer from the minute you arrive.
When else are we given 9 or more hours of uninterrupted me-time? Go on, fasten your seatbelt, switch on your reading light and enjoy the peace and quiet.
Flight times from New Zealand major cities to Tokyo Narita International Airport: Auckland 11h00
13h35 (inc. stopover time)
Christchurch 13h45 (inc. stopover time) Hamilton 22h10 (including stopover time)
Tauranga 14h00 (inc. stopover time)
Dunedin 21h04 (inc. stopover time)
Marvels, monkeys & oddities: unveiling Japan's quirkier side
Join writer Mark Dapin on a journey to discover the snow monkeys, cough-lolly flavoured snacks, sumos and samurai oddities of Japan's captivatingly quirky side.
Snow monkey in hot spring, Nagano
Words by Mark Dapin
You’d need a heart of ice not to fall in love with the snow monkeys of Jigokudani Monkey Park in Japan. They are as cute as grandchildren – although their wizened faces look more like grandparents – and as photogenic as, well… monkeys in snow.
When nearby macaques began to seek winter warmth and comfort in the local onsen (hot springs) at an inn in the mountains in Nagano Prefecture, the local community decided to build them a spa of their own – possibly for reasons of hygiene.
Various signs in the park indicate areas that are reserved for either humans or monkeys, but the monkeys don’t take much notice of them. At feeding time,
hundreds of macaques swarm down from the hills, through the tourists and photographers and towards their onsen.
The snow monkeys are sublime. When you leave them, your heart melts.
Stores in the park sell some curious souvenirs (I bought my brother a pair of snow monkey underpants for his 57th birthday) and excellent snacks. The hot apple pies at Jigokudani are triangular pieces of paradise –although, obviously, the Japanese Alps are a long way to go for an apple pie.
The snow monkeys live and bathe on the edge of the snowfields of Hakuba, an increasingly popular destination for international skiers.
Skiing in Japan is not (quite) as intimidating as it sounds. There are English speakers working everywhere. Plus, while getting your bearings can be difficult in Japan, mountains are among the easiest places to find your way around, as you can only go up or down. Just remember: the older you are, the harder you fall.
Off-piste, Japanese skiers, like snow monkeys, prefer to relax in an onsen. If you choose to join them, be aware that you will be expected to take off all your clothes and sit with a cloth on your head… I think this is some kind of practical joke.
Embrace Tokyo's hustle and bustle, cosplay and cat fashions
Most holidays in Japan begin in Tokyo, the confronting but fascinating national capital. Crowds in the central districts of Tokyo are Grand Final-sized at rush hour (which is more or less every hour). Public transport is clean but crowded. Buses and coaches are cramped, and you are likely to have to stand and sway on the Metro.
Make sure you visit the Imperial Palace, Sensoji Temple and Meiji Jingu Shrine. The complex of galleries around the Tokyo National Museum is a great place to learn about the past, but you can only get a handle on the present by battling through the streets and people-watching.
The phenomenon of cosplay is a significant aspect of Japanese pop culture which grew rapidly in the 1990's.
The city is a crazy labyrinth of shops and bars and shrines, with a few citizens cosplaying superheroes among thousands dressed as their mild-mannered secret identities. There’s also a surprising number of young women who appear to think they are cats.
Signage shimmers, billboards blare, images dance. Most people seem to be eating or drinking, but nobody except sumo wrestlers is noticeably overweight – which, I guess, might contribute to the appeal of Japan’s national sport.
If you can’t get a ticket to the sumo wrestling – and tournaments are often booked out – try lunch at the Sumida Sumo Town at a restaurant in Sumida City, where diners watch a demonstration of sumo training methods and a mock bout, and are
then invited to take on a retired wrestler themselves (spoiler: the sumo don’t try very hard; it’s all about the photo).
On the way to the restaurant, you might, like me, stumble upon the Meishi and Paper Products Museum. If you do, you will be among very few visitors to this rather humble establishment, which contains more business cards than the average museum but fewer than the average financial planner’s wallet. The staff will be welcoming but mystified as to what you are doing there.
As well as sumo, I enjoyed a two-hour Ninja-Samurai Experience in Tokyo with my son. Although I don’t feel as though I am now a fully trained assassin, I can recommend it as a father-son bonding experience (and another source of great pictures).
Don't get lost in translation devices
It’s cliché, I know, but a lot gets lost in translation in Japan. In order to overcome the inevitable misunderstandings that arise, many Japanese tourism industry workers carry handheld translation devices. They function like this: a foreigner speaks into the microphone and the machine translates and transcribes their words into written Japanese. The machine’s owner then reads the Japanese script, frowns, confers with his mate, and offers a reply in spoken Japanese that is translated and transcribed into English by the machine.
The process is slow, painstaking and far from foolproof. You might ask where to catch a bus and be told how to catch a fish, for example.
Takeshita Dori Street, the street of cosplay, in Harajuky, one of the most colourful areas of Tokyo, Japan
A rocking-good garden style
It’s a two-hour-and-10-minute journey by wondrous (but not especially spacious) bullet train from Tokyo to the historic former capital, Kyoto, where you might catch a glimpse of a geisha in full oshiroi makeup and hikizuri kimono flitting between timber machiya townhouses (well, I did, anyway).
A highlight of Kyoto is its Zen gardens, which appeal to reluctant horticulturalists like me as they are largely composed of rocks and require little actual gardening. It is surprisingly calming to sit in silence and stare at different shaped rocks – and much less stressful than mowing the lawn.
And the food ...
Most Japanese food is now familiar to Kiwis. For less adventurous travellers, chicken yakitori at an izakaya bar is usually a safe (and delicious) bet.
Hotels can be inflexible and if you don’t book the set dinner (which might be Italian, Japanese or French) you might not get anything to eat (it might also be worth mentioning that I’ve been refused entry to hotel pools in both Tokyo and Kyoto because I have tattoos).
If you’re watching how much you spend – or if you just like going into shops – it’s worth buying snacks from a convenience store. This is particularly true if you feel a craving for a pancake
in a bag, a container of coin-sized crabs, a cough-lolly flavoured KitKat or octopus in caramel.
However, even hardened lovers of convenience-store offal-hotpot stew rice balls might want to stick to western breakfasts – which, curiously, often include a side of hot chips.
Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shopping Street in Osaka, Japan joincitro.co.nz
Stand out from the crowd at Japan’s tourist hot-spots
With a population of more than 120 million people, Japan can feel a little crowded at times. Yet there are ways to work around this if you travel smarter.
Words by Katrina Lobley
One of the best tips for moving around Japan “hands-free” is to use one of the country’s super-efficient and affordable luggage-forwarding services. This service is offered at major airports such as Narita, Haneda and Kansai (the gateway airport for Osaka and Kyoto), and between many hotels. You can even dispatch heavy
snow and golf equipment to a ski resort or golf course.
If your hotel doesn’t offer this forwarding service, it can point you to a nearby convenience store that does. The service also costs less than you might think: Yamato Transport, for example, will send a wheelie suitcase on a round trip for about A$44.
Early birds catch the Zen
So now you’re hands-free but still hoping to move through crowds smoothly or avoid them as much as possible. The trick is to go against the grain and not act like your fellow tourists.
If you have your heart set, for example, on having a zen experience at Kyoto’s popular Fushimi Inari Taisha (a mountainside Shinto shrine famous for its thousands of photogenic vermilion torii gates), don’t linger over a lazy breakfast and arrive mid-morning. Check out the attraction’s opening hours (this one is open 24 hours) and arrive at dawn when most other visitors are still snoozing on their futons.
Fushimi Inari Shrine Kyoto
Skip cherry blossom crowds
If you think outside the box with Japan’s other attractions, such as cherry blossom season (March to May), you’ll also be far from the madding crowds.
In Tokyo, for instance, you can see the pretty flowers arching dramatically over tombstones at Aoyama Cemetery – one of Japan’s oldest public graveyards and easily reachable via the train system. Because of the location, there are no food stalls and viewing the blossoms (a practice known as hanami) is done quietly and respectfully.
Avoid rush hour
When using Tokyo’s efficient subway system, be aware of rush hour (similar to New Zealand, it’s busiest from 7.30am-9am and after 5pm). Travel outside these periods, or if that’s unavoidable, board a train from the very ends of the platform where there are likely to be fewer commuters. If you can’t make your way to a
platform’s end, simply “turn Japanese” and go with the flow. The famed Japanese politeness means that that’s not as daunting a prospect as it might appear.
Fast-forward to the country
Away from the big cities, crowds are few and far between – and we can’t stress enough how delightful it is to discover the Japanese countryside. One destination that combines nature and culture in a memorable way is the “art islands” of the Seto Inland Sea.
The islands are busy during the Setouchi Triennale (the next one takes place in 2025) but are far more relaxed outside of this event.
Away from the big cities, crowds are few and far between – and we can’t stress enough how delightful it is to discover the Japanese countryside.
Naoshima, the most famous of these islands, features two of Yayoi Kusama’s polka-dot pumpkin sculptures and four stunning museums (Benesse House Museum, Lee Ufan Museum, Chichu Art Museum and the Ando Museum).
Another delightful rural destination is Kinosaki Onsen – 2.5 hours by train northwest of Kyoto. As the name suggests, this is a hot springs town that’s home to seven public onsen. The best part about visiting here is that both locals and visitors don traditional dress, including elevated wooden sandals known as geta, for what’s known as sotoyu meguri (cruising around the bath houses).
It’s quite something to head out for a morning, pre-dinner or post-dinner soak and hear the clatter of geta in the streets. This is a place where it’s a case of the more the merrier.
Yellow Pumpkin, Naoshima, Japan. Photo by Kirill on Unsplash
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SKI SEASON
Wow Japow!
Japan is a crowd favourite snow sports destination for good reason: plenty of powder-soft snow resorts with both Michelin Key-rated hotels and good-value lodgings. We asked the managers at the best resorts to spill the insider tips that will take your next ski trip to new heights.
Niseko, Japan
Japan’s soufflé-light snow is so famous it has its own nickname. Japow is considered the world’s best powder snow. This fluffy stuff sweeps in from Siberia, falling gently but persistently over the country’s northern and western mountains from November to May.
Words by Katrina Lobley
No wonder the country is home to more than 400 ski resorts, with many concentrated in the northern island of Hokkaido and around mountains near Honshu’s Sea of Japan coastline.
So much choice can be head-spinning for Kiwi skiers planning a Japan ski holiday. These “on the ground” tips, direct from several ski resorts, offer a peek into powder paradise to help you decide where to point your skis during your trip to Japan.
Niseko is go-go
Niseko - a 2 hour drive from Sapporo on Hokkaido – is among the world’s “snowiest” ski resorts. Home to many highly rated hotels, a new Michelin Key rating system (mirroring the restaurant Michelin star awards) makes it easier to select the best lodgings.
One of the Niseko hotels awarded a Michelin Key is the Park Hyatt Niseko Hanazono. The luxury hotel’s general manager, Paul Wright, says skiers heading to Niseko should aim for a 3-week sweet spot in the calendar. “The best skiing is from around 20 February until 10 March,” says Wright, who’s originally from Perth but has lived in Niseko since 2020.
“During the day, you’re no longer getting the heavy weather, there are a lot of clear days and the snow quality is still incredible,” he says. “There aren’t such large crowds [as there are during Chinese New Year and school holidays] and you can still get into the backcountry and find knee-deep, untracked powder.”
After carving up the slopes, Wright suggests relaxing into Niseko Annupuri Onsen Yugokorotei’s outdoor boulderfringed pool. Sinking into the natural hot spring at sunset is exactly what a ski-tired body craves.
Executive assistant manager Atsushi Ueda, from Niseko boutique hotel Chalet Ivy Hirafu, recommends Yukichichibu Onsen’s “muddy onsen” as “quite special”. The rural onsen, located 18 km from the hotel, features a mineral-rich mud bath on the women’s side.
For belly-warming local dishes, order a bowl of ramen or soup curry. Wright says the region is “very famous for the 540-day potato”, which are stored at a low temperature for 540 days to enhance sweetness.
Niseko Mt. Resort Grand Hirafu, Niseko
Awanoyu onsen, Nagano
Find a soup curry starring the sweet “Kutchan 540 potato” and you’ll double-down on local taste sensations. Wright’s hotel serves them roasted and topped with raclette cheese.
Ueda suggests trying jingisukan – a dish named after Genghis Khan where diners barbecue thinly sliced lamb on a distinctive convex grill.
Go multi-generational in Hokkaido
An hour’s drive north-east of Niseko, near Otaru and Sapporo, is Club Med Kiroro Peak. A cosier, more luxe option than nearby Club Med Kiroro Grand, this is the place to take older children or grandchildren (aged at least 12) to experience Japow (peak powder season here is January-February).
Introduce them to zangi (fried chicken seasoned with soy sauce and ginger) – it’s Hokkaido’s version of “soul food”, says a Club Med spokesperson.
Get to know Nagano
This Nagano Prefecture resort and village (about four hours’ travel northwest of Tokyo by bullet train and bus) features a good mix of ski runs – even beginners can reach stunning vistas –and varied activities for snow rest days or non-skiing partners.
Peter Douglas, of Nozawa Hospitality (the village’s largest accommodation provider), recommends snowshoeing in nearby forests, taking a yoga class at the Shizen Collective or lingering in one of 30-plus cafes (such as
Harding’s, which features treats created by a patissier).
You’ll have to ask around, he says, to find local gem Carte, a kissaten or traditional coffee house. “They’re still analogue so there’s no listing,” he says.
Jingisukan
Sapporo Snow Festival, Sapporo, Hokkaido
Club Med Kiroro Peak, Hokkaido
Dive under the radar at Fukushima
Hoshino Resorts Bandaisan Onsen Hotel is 290km north of Tokyo near Aizu, a part of Fukushima Prefecture better known for sake and samurai culture. It's an under-the-radar ski destination –but perhaps not for long.
For the best powder, says a hotel spokesperson, head to Nekoma Mountain North Area. This north-facing slope features micro-fine Japow that doesn’t easily melt. Ski slopes are quietest here from late January to mid-February, although the official Fukushima Prefecture winter sports season lasts from December through to April. To give you an idea of snow quality, right at the beginning and end of Fukushima's
season, the snow quality is around the same as other popular skiing destinations at their peak.
Fukushima is especially known for welcoming snowboarders from early in the season and night skiers are also well-catered for. The scenery around Fukushima is particularly beautiful, especially in the Aizu area, which encourages backcountry skiiers to head off-track – something that's only allowed in limited areas, so check with your resort before heading out.
Another thing that Fukushima is highlyregarded for is its sake, considered some of Japan's best. Visiting one or two of the centuries-old breweries is a must-do, try Daishichi in Nihonmatsu, Suehiro Shuzō in Aizuwakamatsu, or Hiroki Shuzō in Aizubange.
Migratory birds at Lake Inawashiro, Mt Bandai, Fukushima.
Kitakata ramen is one of the 3 great ramens of Japan.
Hirakawago after snowfall, Gifu Chubu
Deer in Nara Park have been protected very carefully since ancient times
Preparation is key to a fun ski trip
Sports medicine specialist
Dr Tom Cross regularly treats ski injuries at Sydney’s The Stadium Clinic.
Here’s his injury prevention and treatment advice.
Before hitting the slopes
“Be physically fit months before you get on that plane to Japan,” says Dr Cross. Ask a physiotherapist, ideally one with skiing expertise, or an exercise physiologist 3 to 6 months in advance how to shape up to mitigate the risk of injury.
Remember, too, that weight-bearing exercises help strengthen bones. Those with poor bone health should take Vitamin D-calcium supplements and consult their GP.
Build sport-specific strength through exercises with similar movements. “The stronger you are for maintaining those skiing postures, the less likely you are to catch an edge and twist your knee, break your tibia, dislocate a shoulder or, worse case, get a head or spinal injury,” Dr Cross says.
While on the snow
Use quality ski equipment and pack compression garments “so your lower limbs are held in a good position”. In Japan, ask one of Asia Physio’s seven clinics to advise on best ski shops to help finesse your kit.
“Speed is the number one reason people get hurt,” says Dr Cross. “Stay away from over-crowded runs.” Ski only on blue-sky days if possible, avoiding white-outs, and stay off slushy or icy snow.
If feeling fatigued, take a break in a mountain hut and enjoy a hot drink to rehydrate and recover. During a long ski holiday, schedule off-snow recovery days.
So you’re hurt – now what?
A lower-limb injury increases the risk of developing deep-vein thrombosis (a serious medical condition which, at the very least, will delay any surgical treatment). Remain at the ski resort for 3 to 5 days if possible, says Dr Cross, while treating the injury with ice, compression and daily physio visits to mitigate the risk of DVT.
Further lower your DVT risk by taking an injectable or oral anticoagulant medication before flying home for definitive medical care. It’s wise to seek advice from a health professional before flying.
There’s so much more to Japanese cuisine than sushi
Words by Lee Tran Lam
Rice itself stars in many Japanese dishes, from comfort-food donburi (rice bowls topped with everything from tempura to beef) to the final course in a high-end kaiseki (tasting menu) dinner.
Japanese food is truly diverse and breakfast is a good example. You might enjoy a traditional version with a generous range of dishes (rice with
miso soup, pickles, eggs, grilled fish and fermented soybeans), or a trenddriven brunch (like soufflé pancakes) or a regional specialty (like the ogura toast of Nagoya, topped with a thick spread made from sweet red beans).
Here are a few more culinary examples worth trying when visiting Japan. Hopefully, you’ll get the opportunity to try them all.
Onigiri
These rice balls have been part of Japan’s dining landscape for a long time: a 2000-year-old fossil version was excavated by archaeologists in 1987. True story!
Throughout history, onigiri has enjoyed by people from all ranks of life: aristocrats offered them as ceremonial presents, they appeared in military ration packs and from 1885 onwards, they’ve been sold on trains (their portability meant they were one of the first fast foods that commuters enjoyed).
Today you’ll find onigiri filled with traditional ingredients (such as pickled plum, mustard greens and salmon) and more unconventional ones. For instance, Tokyo's popular Onigiri Bongo cafe is known for experimental flavour combinations that include fried chicken and mayonnaise, kimchi and pork, and bacon and cheese.
Onigiri
When you visit Japan, you’ll encounter sushi in many forms – from serene counters in Michelin-starred restaurants to grab-and-go bento boxes in konbini (convenience stores). But there’s more to Japanese cuisine than rice with sunset-coloured strips of raw salmon or tuna.
Ramen
Yokohoma's Chinatown is seen as the ground zero for Japan's ramen scene. The Chinese workers that began arriving there in the 1880s introduced la mian (pulled noodles) to local diners; this dish evolved into a noodle-andbroth staple with many regional variations throughout Japan.
Pork-rich tonkotsu ramen originated in Fukuoka, while Kyoto (which has a long history of vegetarian cuisine) is known for its creamy soy-milk broth and Sapporo has a reputation for noodles steeped in a miso-rich soup.
Ramen’s versatility means it can be enjoyed without a broth: mazesoba (which originated in Nagoya) gets its flavour from noodles mixed with various toppings (minced meat, egg yolk, herbs, seaweed), while tsukemen (invented in Tokyo) requires you to dip the cold noodles into a soup or sauce.
Melon pan
With its crisp tortoiseshell-like surface, melon pan resembles other pastries around the world, like Hong Kong’s pineapple buns. Those baked sweets don’t feature the fruit they’re named after, and neither does Japan’s melon pan.
In fact, it’s still a mystery how this pastry got its melon-inspired name (one theory suspects it could be from the use of a meron-gata mould; another suggests it comes from the word ‘meringue’).
What’s certain is that melon pan has a crusty, biscuit-like surface and soft, fluffy interior and it’s part of Japan’s family of kashi pan (sweets bread), which also includes anpan (filled with red bean paste) as well as cream pan and choco pan. It’s a flavour revelation, as Kevin and Janetta discovered when they first tried melon pan in Asakusa.
Okonomiyaki
Another Kevin and Janetta favourite, this savoury pancake is typically made from shredded cabbage and batter that's cooked over the heat of a teppan.
The name essentially translates as "to one's liking” and “grilled”, which sums up how customisable this dish is: vegetables, meat and seafood can be added and at certain restaurants, you get to be the chef: enjoy shaping and seasoning the okonomiyaki over the hot plate as you wish.
There are also regional differences in how this specialty is prepared: in Osaka, the ingredients are pre-mixed before being grilled and squiggled with mayonnaise. In Hiroshima, the different aspects are cooked individually and include a layer of noodles and fried egg to help crush your hunger.
Yatai in Shinjuku, Tokyo
Make your own okonomiyaki
Okonomiyaki is mercifully easy to make at home - a delicious way to build excitement for your upcoming trip to Japan.
Serves 4
Prep time - 15 mins
Cooking time - 15 mins
Resting time - 1 hour
Ingredients
• 120 g flour
• ¼ teaspoon sea salt
• ¼ tsp sugar
• ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda
• 1 medium boiled potato, grated
• 180 ml stock
• 1 wombok (Chinese cabbage), finely shredded
• 100 grams shiitake mushrooms
• 4 eggs
Okonomiyaki sauce
• 1 ½ tbsp sugar
• 2 tbsp oyster sauce
• 4 tbsp hot tomato sauce
• 3 ½ tbsp Worcestershire sauce
Garnishes
• 3 tbsp okonomiyaki sauce
• Japanese mayonnaise, Kewpie or similar
• Chives
• Pickled ginger
Method
To make the batter, mix the flour, bicarb, sugar and salt together, then add the grated potato and stock and mix well.
Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
While you wait for the batter, make the sauce by mixing all the sauce ingredients together. Set aside.
Chop the wombok very finely and squeeze out any excess moisture, then slice the shiitake, ready to go.
After the batter has rested for an hour, add the eggs to the batter and whisk well. Then add the finely chopped wombok and stir well.
Heat a heavy-based, non-stick frypan over high heat with plenty of oil and butter. Once hot, pour the batter into the pan and lower the heat to medium. Spread the sliced shiitake on top of the batter. Cover and cook for about five
minutes until the bottom of the batter is golden brown.
Flip the pancake, pop the lid on and cook for a further five minutes. If you’re worried about flipping the pancake, a good trick is to lift and slide it onto a plate, place a second plate on top, flip it and slide it back into the pan.
Take the lid off the pan and cook for another 2 minutes.
Transfer the pancake to a plate and spread the okonomiyaki sauce on top. Make a criss-cross pattern over the whole pancake with mayonnaise then finish with the chives and a neat topping of ginger. Serve hot and enjoy.
Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima, Hiroshima
Useful Japanese phrases to smooth your way
Rest assured, you don’t have to know any Japanese in order to enjoy visiting Japan. While the majority of Japanese people don’t speak English, those working in the tourism industry are generally fluent.
But learning just a tiny bit of the local language has a way of encouraging smiles and opening doors. It enriches your trip and even gives you a special insight into Japanese culture that is impossible any other way.
Most importantly, the Japanese people will appreciate that you are making an effort to learn their language. It’s also something of a national sport to laugh at foreigners attempting Japanese and we are nothing if not accommodating.
Here are some common words and phrases to learn for the amusement of your new Japanese friends.
Hello
Konnichiwa (こんにちは)
Pronounced kohn-nee-chee-wah
This is the standard greeting any time between mid-morning and afternoon. Earlier in the day the informal way to say good morning is ohayou (おはよう), pronounced oh-hi-yoh (a bit like the US state). Later in the day it’s konbanwa (こ んばんは), pronounced kohn-bahn-wah.
Goodbye
Sayōnara (さようなら)
Pronounced sah-yoh-nah-rah
The Japanese also greet and say goodbye to one another with a bow. A deeper, longer bow shows respect, while a short nod of the head is casual and informal. Most Japanese wouldn’t expect a foreigner to bow, but a short, polite bow would be appreciated. It’s also customary to bow when saying thank you.
Thank you
Arigatou gozaimasu (ありがとうございます)
Pronounced ah-ree-gah-toh goh-zahee-mahs
This is a respectful way to say thank you and good for most situations. You might hear it shortened to simply arigatou (ありがとう), pronounced ahree-gah-toh, but this may come across as a little abrupt.
Yes - Hai (はい)
Pronounced hi
No - Īe (いいえ)
Pronounced ee-eh
Please
Onegaishimasu (お願いします)
Pronounced oh-ne-guy-she-ma-su
Japan is a particularly respect-based culture so naturally there are various ways to say please. Onegai shimasu is the most neutral use of please and one that most Japanese people would be happy to hear from a foreigner. A more casual way to thank someone that you may hear regularly is kudasai (くださ い), pronounced koo-dah-sigh. You may also hear the expression douzo (どうぞ) a lot - it’s used in situations where you are offering something to someone, so it’s a particular favourite of wait staff.
Bon appetit
Itadakimasu (いただきます)
Pronounced ee-tah-dah-kee-mahs
You would say itadakimasu before taking your first bite of a meal. This is more than an expression of gratitude for the meal. It symbolises appreciation for the food, the cook and the act of dining, but it’s also an expression of humility - “I receive this food”.
Cheers
Kanpai (かんぱい)
Pronounced kam-pie
Raise a toast to your hosts with a hearty kanpai! The Japanese click their glasses together in the same way we do in New Zealand. Kanpai!
Excuse me
Sumimasen (すみません)
Pronounced soo-mee-mah-sen
As you bumble your way across this disciplined, spiritual, orderly country, the expression sumimasen may well be the one you use most often. This versatile phrase can mean "excuse me," "I'm sorry" or simply be used to get someone’s attention and start a conversation. Sumimasen is basically the phrase that will pave your way for a friendly stay.
ETIQUETTE
Match(a) the locals and have a polite stay in Japan
Japan’s charming customs are all part of its allure. Yet these often unwritten rules of etiquette can seem daunting – especially for first-time visitors.
Words by Katrina Lobley
Embracing Japan’s cultural protocols is not only fun but can lead to a richer travel experience. Let’s take a look at some of the basics to help you have a memorable trip without putting a (slippered) foot wrong.
Tread softly
Shoes on or shoes off? With Japan’s deep love of tatami (woven straw mats), it’s a very firm rule to remove your shoes if you’re entering a place featuring this sweetly scented floor covering.
You’re most likely to encounter this custom when visiting one of the country’s many temples and shrines, or at restaurants with low tables where you sit on the floor. You’ll also need to slip off your shoes when staying at a ryokan (traditional inn) or if you’re lucky enough to visit someone’s house.
Homeowners usually provide a pair of indoor slippers for guests (and another pair of slippers specifically for visiting the toilet).
If any of these pit-stops are in your itinerary, wear slip-on shoes to make the shucking process fast and easy. Ensure you’re also wearing nice socks (leave the ones with the hole in the big toe at home!).
Flush with success
While some of Japan’s traditions might seem stuck in a time-warp (partly due to several centuries of self-isolation), others are startlingly modern.
Just wait until you encounter one of Japan’s futuristic, high-tech toilets. These sit-down toilets feature everything from heated seats to
Zori are a type of traditional Japanese footwear
washlets (which rinse and dry the rear end). Sometimes you can also choose an accompanying soundtrack to mask embarrassing noises.
All so startlingly modern, yet don’t be surprised if you also occasionally encounter a squat toilet, especially at train stations and temples. Japan is, after all, a country of contrasts.
Learn more at the TOTO Museum –dedicated to Japan’s leading toilet manufacturer – in Kitakyushu at the top of Kyushu Island.
Wear it or not
Staying in a ryokan is a very special experience. As part of the stay, you’re given a yukata (light cotton robe) to wear around the inn. There’s only one way to wear this robe: cross its lefthand side (as you look down) over the right before securing with a belt (right over left is used to dress people who have died).
At the other end of the spectrum, if you’re visiting an onsen (hot springs bathhouse), it’s a must to wear nothing in the heated water (even your tiny towel should stay at the pool’s edge or on top of your head). Showering before soaking is also de rigueur.
Dial it down
Japanese people are extremely considerate of others – and expect you to be the same.
That means no loud conversations on trains, no cutting into queues – and definitely no temper tantrums if things take a little longer than expected.
If you buy a souvenir, for example, don’t be surprised if the attendant takes many, many minutes to carefully and beautifully wrap your purchase.
Instead, take the opportunity to practise ichi-go ichi-e – meaning “one time, one meeting”, or treasuring the moment.
Slurp, but don't snack
One thing you don’t see while travelling around Japan is locals snacking while on the move. It can be difficult to find rubbish bins –so if you must walk and eat, take your rubbish with you.
In restaurants, remember that it’s perfectly okay to loudly slurp your soup and noodles (it’s both a practical way to cool them down and apparently enhances flavour).
Keep your chopsticks polite
After snapping apart your disposable chopsticks, refrain from rubbing them together – and definitely don’t use them to stab or skewer your food. Once you’ve finished eating, neatly pop lids back on dishes and return your chopsticks to their rest.
Kampai!
In Japan, 'sake' actually refers to all alcoholic drinks - sake as westerners know it is actually called nihonshu.
When you’re with a group of friends and sharing a tokkuri (carafe) of nihonshu, remember to serve each other rather than pour your own drink. Then take your first sip only after everyone has been served.
Remember too that nihonshu is always poured using both hands, one to hold and pour, the other supporting the bottom of the tokkuri.
