Higher View - Issue 06

高尔夫新英雄

张新

成功的故事

April 2014

亚当·斯科特

# 06

The other

China D IS CO V ERIN G H U N AN

绝世奢华

尽在塔斯马尼亚

睡在葡萄树间

CHINA NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE, SYDNEY

葡萄园住宿

HILTON

488 George St. Sydney

QVB

Shop G27 Ground Floor

+61 2 9261 2210 www.bunda.com.au

PARK HYATT

7 Hickson Rd. The Rocks

创立于196９年的ＢＵＮＤＡ 在悉尼珠宝界有着至尊的地位。 在ＢＵＮＤＡ, 您将看见无与伦比 的南洋珍珠，高级钻石以及绚丽夺 目的澳宝． 每一件ＢＵＮＤＡ首饰 都将 向您呈现艺术品般值得收藏的品质 和欧洲纯手工打造的精湛工艺。 ＢＵＮＤＡ曾一度被邀请与多 个世界顶级品牌合作，其中包括劳 斯莱斯，柏悦酒店等。 ＢＵＮＤＡ愿为您打造您悉尼 行中独一无二的奢华享受。

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奢华尽显点滴间 It's the lIttle touches...

Fly business class with China Eastern and you get more than you bargained for including designer amenity kits, 180-degree seats and delicious Chinese cuisine First decision of the flight: Western or Chinese style dinner? On the Western side, for mains, you could have seared loin of lamb with red wine jus and creamy polenta. In the Chinese corner, a main of roast pork belly with oyster sauce might appeal.

Either way, you're going to be on to a winner. The food is first-class on a Chinese Eastern business flight.

But it's not just about the food.

You can sleep off your dinner in a 21inch wide, 180-degree reclining seat complete with massage cushions. Your eye mask will have come from the Salvatore Ferragamo amenity kit. A classy touch, the famed fashion designer brings you a bag of little goodies to make you comfortable.

Should sleep be the furthest thing from your mind, the entertainment – in both English and Chinese – will easily help you while away the hours.

乘坐中国东方航空商 务舱，超值的价格却 有奢华的体验，包括 精美的设计师护理套 装、180度的座位和 中式佳肴

飞行期间第一个的决定是选 择享用西式还是中式的晚 餐？这是不容易做出抉择 的。其中一道西式晚餐的主 菜是红酒烤羊腰肉和香滑意 式玉米泥，至于中式有蚝油 烤五花肉。 无论是西式还是中式，也 会让您有绝佳的享受，东方

航空商务舱提供的美食其味 尽显东方航空的細緻奢華。 无穷。 这位著名的设计师为您呈上 奢华的体验不只是在食物 的小包定能让您的飞行旅途 上，晚餐后您可以安睡在一 更加舒适。 台宽21英寸、180度的躺椅 如果您无法入眠，设有 座位上，还配有按摩靠垫。 中、英两种语言的娱乐设备 您的眼罩已经在菲拉格慕 将轻松帮您消磨时间。只需 （Salvatore Ferragamo）的 一个按钮，最新的电影、游 护理套装里为您预备好了， 戏和音乐便逐一为您献上。

For morE inFormation, visit au.CEair.Com 如欲获取更多资讯，请到访 au.CEair.Com

Our warm-hearted services have made 80 million guests smile in 2013.

CHINA NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE, SYDNEY

中国驻悉尼旅游办事处

introduction 14

Welcome from CNTO, Sydney

Welcome from China Eastern

中

这

T

I

国的万里长城雄关万里的画面已经在许多人的 个地球上还有别的创造能媲美中国万里长城的雄伟以及其 记忆中根深蒂固，不管我们曾经有否到访过。 蕴藏丰富的历史和如此的令人惊叹吗？伸展万里，穿越崇 然而，它确实是隐藏着许多的故事，在那里总会有一些新 山峻岭，它是我国很多方面的骄傲。任您到访过无数次，不论 的发现。这一期《翼境》有托马斯·奥马试图让这个世界一 是什么天气，这些风景也不会让人厌倦，特别是它们跟90－96 大奇迹来进一步启发您（90－96页），配有艾文·贝尔精美 页中艾文·贝尔所捕捉的一样惊艳。这一期不只有极棒的地方 绝伦的图片。另外我们还有湖南省，我们国家一个美丽而且 （我们还到访了湖南省、塔斯马尼亚、弗林德斯山脉、墨尔本和 历久不衰的地方，却经常被各国的访客所忽视（52－60页）。 鲁沙），还遇见超棒的人如中国富豪张欣，在154－160页中分 正当我们为您呈上中国和澳大利亚最新的消息、开张和必 享了她的故事、澳大利亚的世界一流高尔夫球手亚当·斯科特 看的节目之际，我们到访了一个融合了两国最好的一切的城 （140－146页）和奢华腕表朗格的行政总裁（148－152页）跟 市——墨尔本。倘若您曾经在墨尔本过新年的便会知道，这是 我们讲述一家出售价值百万腕表的公司是如何在柏林墙倒塌后 华人聚居、安居的地方，在98－108页中能找到背后的原因。 重生的故事。翻阅将会发现更多。祝阅读愉快。 he sight of the Great Wall of China disappearing into the distance is an image many of us have ingrained within our memory, whether we’ve visited or not.

And yet there’s always something new to discover – it just has so many stories to tell. In this issue of Higher View, Thomas O’Malley attempts to enlighten you even further about this truly great wonder of the world (pages 90-96), with the brilliant Ewen Bell providing the pictures. Also on our hitlist this month is Hunan province, a beautiful and timeless part of our country that is far too often overlooked by visitors from other parts of the world (pages 52-60).

As well as bringing you all the latest goings on, openings and must-see events from both China and Australia, we then pay a visit to a city that brings together the best of both: Melbourne. As those of you who have been there for New Year know, this is a home away from home for many Chinese people. Find out why on pages 98-108. Enjoy.

s there anything on this planet quite as majestic, breathtaking and full of history as the Great Wall of China? Stretching far into the distance through mountains and valleys, it’s the pride of our country in so many ways.

You could visit it countless times, whatever the weather, and never tire of those views, especially when they’re as stunning as those captured by Ewen Bell on pages 90-96.

It’s not just incredible places we have in this issue (we visit Hunan province, Tasmania, Flinders Ranges, Melbourne and Noosa) – we also meet incredible people, such as Chinese billionaire Zhang Xin, to discover her story (pages 154-160); Australia’s world-beating golfer Adam Scott (pages 140-146); and the CEO of luxury watch company A. Lange & Sohne (pages 148-152), who tells us the tale of how a company selling milliondollar watches was reborn after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Discover more inside. Happy reading.

Higher View Issue 6

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DAV0332

Where we ’ ve b een contributors

Flinders Ranges, SA Pages 42-50

Great Wall, Beijing Pages 90-96 16

Wine stays, Australia Pages 62-70

Contributors Our team of writers and photographers have been to the most exciting cities and beautiful rural outposts of both China and Australia to bring you this beautiful issue

Pan Hua is the president

Leo Lewis is Beijing Bureau Chief for The Times and has been based in Asia for nine years covering business and economic news. In his first feature for us, he interviews Zhang Xin on pages 154-160.

Ben Everill is a regular for newspapers and magazines across the globe and the ‘go to’ guy for many when it comes to local and international golf. He profiles Adam Scott on 140-146.

Fiona Harper has been a

of Aust-China Writers Association, and a renowned, award-winning Chinese writer. For this issue, he takes over our column on page 40, to discuss Canberra. 潘华是澳大利亚华人作家协会的会 长，更是一位屡获殊荣，著名的中 国作家。在这期第40页的专栏中, 跟我们一起探讨首都堪培拉。

利奥·刘易斯是《泰晤士报》北京分 社的社长。在亚洲九年的时间报道 商业和经济新闻。首次为我们撰写 的文章中访问张欣（154-160页）。

本·埃弗里尔给世界各地的报纸和 杂志撰稿，还洞悉一切有关本地和 国际的高尔夫球。他在第140-146 页专访了亚当·斯科特。

菲奥娜·哈珀是一位优秀的旅行作 家，世上甚少地方没有被她发现。 首次为我们撰稿，呈上在澳大利亚 最好的葡萄园住宿（62-70页）。

travel writer for the best part of a decade. There’s little she hasn’t covered. In her maiden article for us, she looks at the best vineyard stays Australia has to offer on pages 62-70.

Contents 21 News 时事要闻 What’s going on and where across Shanghai, Beijing, Sydney and Melbourne 34 48 hours in Noosa 鲁沙48小时 Spend two days enjoying the sun and sand, and eating the local delights 38 Taste of China 中国佳肴 We review Sydney’s new China Republic restaurant 40 堪培拉的丰彩 潘华、胡玫跟我们一起 来探讨首都堪培拉 42 Out on the Ranges 内陆的边缘 Visit the very edge of the Australian Outback at SA’s Flinders Ranges 52 River life 湖南省 Trent van der Jagt unearths a slice of the Tang Dynasty in the heart of Hunan 62 Among the vines 藤蔓之间 If tasting the wine isn’t enough, now you can stay in style at your favourite vineyard

weibo.com/luxuryaustralia

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G ua n g z h o u puts on its

Game face

contents 19

42

Out on the Ranges E x p lo r e t h e e d g e o f t h e Au s t r a l i a n o u t b ack

73 Game face 现代广州 Explore the modern face of Guangzhou 82 The longest drive 高尔夫之旅 It’s the golfer’s ultimate dream: a four-month golfing road trip across Australia

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Among the vines

90 Wonder Wall 万里长城 Tom O’Malley takes a wander along the Great Wall of China

110 Mountains high 山之高 Alex Mead finds luxury in the heart of Tasmania’s Freycinet

98 Good as gold 好比黄金 In Melbourne, you’ll find the world’s longest occupied Chinatown

119 Higher life 奢华生活 The best of what designers have to offer this season

154

Zhang Xin

126 Classic chic 经典之美 Chloe’s Resort 2014 is all about effortless style

148 Grand designs 大制作 Germany’s Saxony is home to worldfamous watchmakers

134 Well suited 合您·西装 Say goodbye to jeans and T-shirts – casual style now comes in suit form

154 Rags to riches 白手起家——张新 How Zhang Xin became one of China’s richest women

140 Great Scott 风云人物斯科特 Adam Scott has put Aussie golf on the map

162 My higher life 企业家谭浩泰 We talk to entrepreneur Henry Tam

Australia’s Most Awarded Quality Home Builder

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achieve

sea this

cricket time

street art

opera pylon

Sculptures line Perth's Cottesloe Beach p23

Enter the world of cricket fighting in Beijing p24

A guide to the best graffiti street art in Melbourne p28

See Madama Butterfly on Sydney's unique opera stage p32

Hot air 澳大利亚首都领地的上空充满着数以百计色彩斑斓、 各式各样的气球，为庆祝一年一度的堪培拉气球展。老 议会大厦(Old Parliament House)的草地上有早餐供应, 让您在夏日中完美地展开美好的一天。 3月8日—16日，每天早上6时开始 。 The skies of the ACT are filled with hundreds of balloons of every shape, size and hue for the annual Canberra Balloon Spectacular. Head to the lawns of Old Parliament House – they're serving breakfast – for the perfect start to your autumn day. Daily from 6am, March 8-16. events.act.gov.au

FOOD FESTIVALS

Taste of Australia 澳大利亚美食 news

Where better to celebrate the best of the Aussie harvest than at a food festival? Here Constantina Pilatos picks her favourite three 没有比美食节更好的地方来庆祝澳大利亚最棒的丰收。 康士坦汀·皮拉图挑选出她最喜爱的三个⋯⋯

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K anga roo Is l and

Or ange

Ya rr a Va lley

FOOD Week

Grape Grazing Festival

A unique location for a unique event. Cooking displays, market stalls, live entertainment – it's a one-stop, food-lover's shop.

Locals will even host you for a home-cooked dinner. April 24-28, tourkangarooisland.com.au

All the Orange locals get involved to offer everything from wine tastings to farm gate tours and hosting the 100-Mile Dinner, featuring dishes made from produce sourced within 100 miles of Orange. April 4-13, orangefoodweek.com.au

Spend three days enjoying the best of Yarra Valley's fine wine, boutique ciders and locally brewed beers at the Grape Grazing Festival.

There are a whopping 30 events to choose from. February 14-16, grapegrazing.com.au

在一个独特的地点举行独特的活动。烹饪示 范、市集摊位、现场娱乐表演，简直是为饕客 们提供一站式的服务。 当地人甚至会为您亲 自下厨，来个家常晚餐。4月24—28日。

所有奥兰芝（Orange）的居民也会参与， 为您提供一切包括品酒、农场游览到举办 100英里晚宴，晚宴设有距离奥兰芝100英里 之内所烹调的菜色。4月4—13日。

在亚拉河谷葡萄节花三日的时间来享受亚拉 河谷（Yarra Valley）最好的美酒、精品苹 果酒和当地酿造的啤酒。有多达30个活动供 选择。 2月14—16日。

FEASTival

don’t miss 不容错过

Sea this news

海边雕塑展将会有70个极具创意的雕 塑点缀珀斯的科特索海滩(Cottesloe Beach)。2014年3月7—24日。 Seventy creative installations line Perth’s Cottesloe Beach for Sculpture by the Sea. March 7-24, sculpturebythesea.com

Tour in style 坐上从珀斯出发，为期13天的阿伯克龙比肯特的 内陆私人飞机探险之旅——宁格鲁礁（Ningaloo Reef）浮潜、进到与世隔绝的土著社区和睡在豪 华的伯克利河酒店（Berkeley River Lodge）。 虽然这个旅程到8月份才开始，可是只有有限的 位子，要提早预定。二人同行澳币28,000元。 Do the outback in style with Abercrombie & Kent's Outback Private Jet Adventure.

Beginning in Perth, spend 13 days on a privately chartered aircraft. Snorkel the Ningaloo Reef, gain access to isolated Indigenous communities and sleep at the luxurious Berkeley River Lodge. Tours aren't till August, but with an itinerary this good and limited spots, you want to get in early. $28,000 per twin share, abercrombiekent.com.au

check in

上海专家— —袁航， 浦东香格里拉大酒店 A Concierge's Shanghai With Johnny Yuan, Pudong Shangri-La Pengpu Night Market For Shanghai-style street snacks, visit the Pengpu Night Market in the area around Linfen and Wenxi roads in Zhabei. It is famous for its deep-fried food. 一个纯粹是上海风情的街头小吃。彭浦夜市最早出现 在10年前，位于闸北区闻喜路、临汾路。 它以油炸食 品著称，在晚上无论是任何时间也是大排长龙。

Bird and Flower Market, Xi Zang Road The Bird and Flower Market is the first of its kind in Shanghai, with seasonal plants as well as spectacular fish and birds on offer. 花鸟市场是上海最早的花鸟市场，每一种植物 都在合适的季节展示它们应有的一切。各种令 人惊叹的鱼、鸟和工具商品应有尽有。

Dong Tai Antique Market This large antique market features a huge variety of objects. It's a good place to find everything from vases and chopsticks to posters and pocketbooks. 位于东台路的古董市场是浏览和进行休闲古董 购物最好的场地。在这个庞大的市场的摊位中 有各种东西，种类繁多。这是一个寻找一切的好 地方，不论是花瓶、筷子还是海报和钱袋。

South Bund Fabric Market Selling every conceivable fabric, these stalls also have on-site tailors ready to take measurements

Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin

Four Seasons, Hangzhou

Double Tree, Jiaxing

从海河河畔出发只需几分钟的 路程，这家酒店内有四家豪华 用餐场所，提供国际、广东和 现代的菜色。

杭州四季酒店位处隐密的湖边 村，融合了传统与现代风格。 设有11个湖边用餐室，来享受 奢华的中式用餐体验。

嘉興市内的世外桃园，京杭大 运河里有希爾頓逸林酒店， 还 拥有地标美景包括长虹桥 和曝书亭。

Why stay? Only minutes away from the banks of the Haihe River, this hotel is home to four indulgent dining establishments serving international, Cantonese and contemporary creations. ritzcarlton.com

Why stay? The Four Seasons reveals an intimate lakeside village, melding tradition with contemporary style.

Enjoy high-style Chinese dining at one of the 11 lagoon-side dining rooms. fourseasons.com

Why stay? A sanctuary within the city of Jiaxing, Double Tree lies on the Grand Canal of China and boasts stunning views of landmarks such as Changhong Bridge and Baoshu Pavilion. doubletree3.hilton.com

and whip up a garment in just a few days’ time. 销售各种您能想象得到的面料：真丝、纯棉、麻布、羊 毛、羊绒、灯芯绒、牛仔布⋯⋯这些摊位也有现场裁 缝师为您测量，并在短短几天的时间内完成服装。

Qi Pu Road Market, 399 Lu Jia Bang Road The enormous Qi Pu Road complex wholesales clothing. It is proving a very popular market for traders and foreign tourists alike. 七浦路综合场所是服装批发的地方，位于苏州河以 北,靠近河南路与海宁路。现在有许多交易商和外 国游客将其注意力集中于这个著名的市场上。

Shiliupu Material Market, 168 Dong Men Road This four-storey market has a great variety of fabrics and skilled tailors to help you build your wardrobe out of silk, cotton, linen, wool…

这幢四层高的市场提供众多面料选择，还有熟练的 裁缝师帮助您为衣橱添置丝绸、棉、麻、羊毛⋯⋯

23

don’t miss 不容错过

beijing

Show time Combining music, mime, dance, and acrobatics, the Peking Opera is a jack-of-all-trades tradition and none do it better than the Beijing Peking Opera Theatre.

Catch them at the NCPA Theatre, February 4-5, en.damai.cn

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c r i c k e t m at c h

Enter the world of cricket fighting and meet Beijing's most famous cricket trainers as part of a Bespoke Beijing tour. Or if shopping is your bag, have an expert guide you to by-appointment curated shops that you wouldn’t find on your average tour.

Alternatively, food lovers can embark on an exclusive kitchen tour of one of the city’s best Peking Duck restaurants before sitting down to try some yourself.

bespoke-beijing.com

Great idea

For those who want the Great Wall of China camping experience without having to rough it, the Commune is for you. With 175 suites, three restaurants, outdoor pool, tennis court, and private onsite paths that lead to non-restored sections of the epic wall, you can have the one-of-akind experience… minus the backache.

communebythegreatwall.com

Date for the diary

Electric dream

The streets of Beijing will be filled with the roar – well, quiet hum – of electric racing cars this September when the Federation Internationale de l’Automobile Formula E Championships arrives in town. The new series races for electric cars will also visit Rio de Janeiro, Miami, London and Los Angeles. China has a team competing, as does Hollywood heartthrob, Leonardo DiCaprio. formularacing.com

Too good tapas up shanghai

Shanghai has fallen for the latin charms of tapas bars, here are three of the best

Unico

26

The largest tapas lounge in Asia, Unico reflects the trendiest part of Latin culture with unique cocktail creations and an exquisite selection of tapas. Try the Peruvian classic Octopus Tiradito – raw sashimi-like marinated seafood served with fresh vegetables and corn. Three on the Bund, No.3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road,

unico.cn.com

Samfaina

Forget the deep-fried patatas bravas and croquetas. At Samfaina the focus is on the textures drawn from single ingredients. Slow, slow cooking is responsible for this (24 hours for veal shank and beef short rib). The menu is long, but it's clear pig is king. Everything from leg ham to pork cheek are featured. 532 Fuxing Zhong Lu, Huangpu district, samfaina.com.cn

Commune Social

Snugly fit into a former police station, Commune Social feels a bit like a mini Manhattan subway station with its cement steps and white tiles. The sea urchin and pepper butter on ciabatta is the perfect dish for two to share. 511 Jiangning Lu, near Kangding Lu Jingan district,

communesocial.com

Fashion’s finest

hot hotel

Waterhouse Shanghai Using the shell of the original dockyard building and warehouse that date back to the 1930s, Waterhouse Shanghai is a new breed of luxury hotel. The concept involves a blending of old and new, with lots of exposed concrete, brick and wood that reflects its industrial past. The four-storey resort offers 19 unique guest rooms, some with private terraces that boast Huangpu River and Pudong skyline views. waterhouseshanghai.com

Nav ig at e t he m a z e of Sh a ngh a i shoppi ng by lett i ng Lu x u r y C oncierg e g u ide you t o t he be st bout iq ue shops. You c a n even h ave a c ol le ct ion de sig ne d e s pe ci a l ly for you by one of t he emerg i ng fa sh ion le a ders. luxuryconciergechina.com

中 国 名 传 厨 统 料 三 理 年 精 恢 心 弘 打 复 造 古 重 现

“Intriguing $7 million dining environment, top-notch service coupled with beautiful food by one of the top 50 chefs in China, makes this restaurant one of a kind attraction in Australia.”

Modern Chinese Cuisine. Traditional Chinese Art-form. 创意中国菜，却是传统意境相衬而出，七百万澳币打造澳洲全新用餐体验。

China Republic Restaurant Upper Level, World Square 680 George St. Sydney NSW 2000 Open 7 days 12pm ~ late 02 8081 0888 info@hygroup.com.au Web: www.chinarepublicrestaurant.com.au Like: facebook.com/chinarepublic Reservations: Email:

丰富佳肴以及世界美酒供来宾品尝

包间需预订或由贵宾用户推荐使用

guided tour

things to do

墨尔本街头艺术之旅 Melbourne Street Art Tour 无数墨尔本的巷道墙壁布满了街头艺术，我们向来 自墨尔本街头艺术之旅的迈克尔·弗卡斯问道参观 街头艺术的最佳地点。 we asked Michael Fikaris to scope out the best spots to check out Melbourne´s street art

Hosier Lane 首个指定涂鸦区之一，艺术最早发现于1986年，墙 壁上充满了壁画。出镜率最高的是由德布（Deb） 制作的象头神(Ganesha)。 One of the first designated graffiti areas – with art first spotted in 1986 – the walls are filled with murals. Most photographed is Ganesha by Deb.

Rutledge Lane 就在霍西尔巷道（Hosier Lane）后面，这是一个 艺术家制作的热点。来这里看看他们的行动。 Just behind Hosier Lane, this is a hotspot for artists to work. Come here to see them in action.

Croft Lane 目前是被巨型鱿鱼拿着扬声器占据着，这是另一条 小巷的墙壁从人行道到屋顶充满了涂鸦作品。 Currently marked by a giant squid holding a boom box, this is another alleyway whose walls are filled with works from footpath to roof.

AC/DC Lane 世界知名的游击街头艺术家班克斯（Banksy）在 墨尔本有他的喷画。在AC/DC小巷能找到著名的 跳伞鼠。 World-renowned guerilla street artist Banksy has had his spray at Melbourne.

You can spot the famous parachuting rat stencils down AC/DC Lane.

Little Bourke Street 大约小柏克街的中段会发现采用多层次的方式制作 的壁画，这是首件受墨尔本市委托而成的作品。 A multi-level piece, found about halfway down Little Bourke, this artwork was the first to be commissioned by the City of Melbourne.

Melbourne Street Art Tours operate on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. $69, melbournestreettours.com

Photography by Trent van der Jagt

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Endless

Summer International Style, Uniquely Australian Linneys 珠宝设计师和工艺师采用顶级的西澳大利亚南洋珍珠， 稀有的粉红钻石及其它各式 各样的彩色宝石手工制作成美丽的首饰珍品。 Linneys 巧夺天工的工艺在今年的 Cote d’Azur 系列表现的淋漓尽致。 18K白金及玫瑰金，澳洲南洋珍珠和粉钻石耳环 $16,650 18K白金和玫瑰金粉钻和白钻戒指 $48,700

linneys.com Perth Sydney Broome

GOLD COAST AUSTR ALIA

SUITE LOVING

*Upgrade subject to room availability. Cabana available once per stay. Valid until 31st March 2014. Blackout dates include 24th December 2013 until 4th January 2014.

121333

Enjoy a complimentary suite upgrade and a sparkling cabana couture package when you quote ‘HIGHER VIEW’.

all white on the night 在 2 013 年，墨尔 本 不 夜 城 之夜 （White Night Melbourne）吸引 了超过30万人参加。从黄昏到黎明， 整个城市被点燃了。今年再一次只 有一个晚上（从晚上7时到早上7 时）来欣赏熠熠放光的装饰、电影 放映、多媒体投影、演唱会和各种 互动活动。2月22日。 In 2013, White Night Melbourne attracted more than 300,000 people as the city was lit up from dusk till dawn. Again, for one night only (7pm-7am), watch the CBD come alight with installations, film screenings, multimedia projections, concerts and interactive events. February 22, whitenightmelbourne.com.au

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Runway success 时装四射 随着三月份的到来，澳大利亚的时尚精 英也将在维多利亚墨尔本时装节昂首阔 步。本地设计师将展示全新系列，还有城 内领先的时尚学院被挑选出来的毕业生 们将有机会以毕业设计项目来使群众哗 然。3月17日至23日。 Come March, Australia's fashion elite will strut in to Victoria for the Melbourne Fashion Festival.

Local designers will showcase new collections and hand-picked graduates from the city's leading fashion institutes will get a chance to wow the crowds with their final projects. March 17-23, vamff.com.au

远离烦嚣 坐落于墨尔本喧嚣的中央商业区上空， 是朗廷酒店（The Langham）的川水疗中心 （Chuan Spa）。基于传统中国药理，提供 19种不同的服务和方式，水疗中心的治疗灵 感来自明代上海的历史实践。来一个热石按 摩或海藻裹体，身心立刻舒畅。

sport essential

一级方程式

cit y escape

The 2014 Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix will see the world's fastest cars, coolest celebrities and latest technology converge on Melbourne's Albert Park for four days of fast-paced action. March 13-16, grandprix.com.au

Photo: Glenn Dunbar/LAT Photographic

2014年一级方程式澳大利亚大奖赛上将看到 世界上最快的车、最酷的名人和最新的技术汇 聚在墨尔本的阿尔伯特公园(Albert Park)内 四天的时间。3月13日－16日。

right formul a

melbourne

special event

High above the hustle and bustle of Melbourne’s CBD sits Chuan Spa at The Langham. Offering 19 services and rituals based on traditional Chinese medicine, the spa draws inspiration for its treatments from the historical practices of the Ming Dynasty Shanghai. For a quick fix, indulge in a hot stone massage or algae wrap. chuanspa.com.au

sydney

special event

Pylon the opera It takes some 8,000 hours of manual labour to build the 40-tonne stage that sits suspended on 16 pylons above Sydney’s Harbour for the Handa Opera. This year’s story, Madama Butterfly, follows the love affair between a young American and his Japanese bride. Come down to the water’s edge and let the story begin.

March 21 – April 12, opera.org.au

悉尼水上舞台 32

水上歌剧（Handa Opera）40吨重的 舞台架置在悉尼海港沿岸海面的16个吊 架上，耗时约8000个小时的劳力来构 建。今年上演的《蝴蝶夫人》是一个有 关美国年轻男生与他的日本新娘之间的 恋情的故事。一起来到水边让故事开始 吧。3月21日－4月12日。

现代中国美食

3 for Modern Chinese 音乐、戏剧、舞蹈、装饰布置、魔术，悉尼艺术节把城市转化为艺术和文化的大都会

Gone are the days when Chinese cuisine was made up of cheap dumplings and cheerful dim sum. These restaurants are taking over Sydney’s culinary scene.

Waitan 外滩是区内新兴的餐厅，拥有 悉尼最大的圆桌（32席位）、 14间包房和一个“活角”，以 多种方法烹调新鲜的海鲜为 傲——北部泥青蟹有两种方 式、澳大利亚龙虾有五种方式， 或是各种的活鱼包括蒸、烤或 炒昆士兰州珊瑚鳟鱼。 New kid on the block Waitan is home to Sydney's largest round table (seats 32), 14 private dining rooms and a 'Live Corner' which boasts NT Mud crab two ways, Australian lobsters five ways, or live fish options including QLD coral trout cooked steamed, roasted or stir-fried. Lvl 1, Sussex Street, Sydney, 8218 1000

The Eight

Mr. Wong

按照传统，八乐居早上是饮茶 的地方，但到了晚上，烤鸭薄 饼和点心换成招牌菜如烤牛肉 配鹅肝糊。

室内以历久不衰的风格布置包 括木地板、法式竹框编织椅子 和在慢慢转动的吊扇。餐馆充 满了受中国风影响的现代风格。 广式菜单提供超过60个菜式以 及无与伦比的点心供选择。

Keeping with tradition, by day Market City's The Eight is yum cha central with every classic dumpling you could wish for and their own modern interpretations of others. However, come nighttime, the duck pancakes and dim sum are swapped with signature dishes like wok-seared beef with foie gras paste. The Eight is from the same stable that brought us the award-winning Zilver.

Level 3, Market City,

Layered with timeless colonial furnishings including timber floors, bambooframed French woven chairs and slow-turning ceiling fans, Mr. Wong pays homage to classic Chinese influences in a contemporary style.

The Cantonese-style menu features over 60 dishes and an unrivalled dim sum selection. 3 Bridge Lane,

theeightrestaurant.com.au

merivale.com.au/mrwong

Art of the cit y 每两年一次的悉尼双年展(Biennale of Sydney) 使悉尼市变成一个艺术爱好者的 乐园。列入遗产名录的位置：前铁路站场 Carriageworks和位于悉尼港，前身是监狱 和造船厂的鹦鹉岛（Cockatoo），还有其他 位于中央商务区的各个地点将有作品展览。 3月21日－6月9日。 Every two years the city of Sydney turns into an art aficionado’s playground for the Biennale of Sydney. Heritage-listed locations – Carriageworks, a former rail yard; and Cockatoo Island, a former prison and shipyard in Sydney Harbour – will host works, as will various sites in the CBD. March 21 – June 9, biennaleofsydney.com.au

Available at

201 Macquarie Street Cnr Martin Place, Sydney Te l . 6 1 2 9 2 3 1 3 6 2 2

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48 hours in

Noosa While Queensland’s coastline has an abundance of seaside towns dotting its shores, none quite match the natural beauty and endless luxury of Noosa 虽然昆士兰州的海岸线有许多的海边小镇点缀其海岸，但也不 能媲美鲁沙（Noosa）美丽的自然风光和不尽的奢华。 Words Constantina Pilatos Photography Trent van der Jagt

Day One 第一天

dolphins swimming up and down the coast of the Coral Sea.

7am Noosa is no stranger to warm, sunny days, so before it gets too steamy take advantage of the cooler mornings by exploring the National Park. A short 10-minute walk from Hastings Street (the town centre) will find you at the foothills of 4,000 hectares of Australia’s natural wildlife. From dense rainforest to bushland and hidden beaches, here you can spend hours getting lost. Keep an eye out for koalas and birds nesting in the trees, and whales, sea turtles and

早上7时 温暖、阳光明媚的日子在鲁沙并不陌生，所 以适宜趁着还没有太热的早上到访国家公园。 从市中心哈斯汀街（Hastings Street）只需 步行10分钟，您就会发现自己身处在澳大利 亚4000公顷的自然野生动植物山脚处。从茂 密的热带雨林到丛林和隐蔽的海滩，足以让 您在这里迷路几个小时。值得留意的是树上 的无尾熊和在上面筑巢的鸟类。还有沿着珊 瑚海海岸的鲸鱼、海龟和海豚。

9am After working up an appetite, head

down to the low-rise and leafy coastal town that is Noosa to find an array of seaside restaurants and boutique stores. Berardo’s Bistro on Hastings is best for a long, lazy breakfast. Overlooking Main Beach, bathe in the sun while getting a taste of the best local produce with Berardo’s signature Farmer’s Market Plate – showcasing ‘Noosa Reds’ tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella.

早上9时 开始有些许食欲的时候到绿叶成荫的沿海小 镇鲁沙，会发现一系列的海滨餐厅和精品店。 位于哈斯汀街上的Berardo’s Bistro餐厅最 适合来一个慵懒的长早餐。一边俯瞰主滩、 沐浴在阳光中，一边享用Berardo’s的招牌 早餐农夫市场拼盘（Farmer’s Market Plate），有“鲁沙红”之称的西红柿和水牛 芝士，是品尝当地出产最棒的餐厅之一。

11am While on Hastings, take an hour or two to saunter in and out of the shops. Selling everything from high-end designer wear to local

48 hours brands and hand-made longboards, you’ll have a difficult time walking away empty-handed.

早上11时 既然已经来到哈斯汀街当然少不了花一两个 小时来逛逛商店。这里真是应有尽有，从高 端的设计师品牌到本土品牌和手工制作的滑 板，您将很难空手而回。

1pm From Noosa’s fashion strip to the white sandy shore in a few steps, Hastings conveniently backs onto Main Beach. One of the few beaches along Australia’s coastline that faces north, enjoy all-day sun and gentle waves – perfect conditions for those who want to give surfing a go. You’ll want to soak in every bit of sun, but if it’s cool relief you’re after, try the Surf Life Saving Club. Just off the boardwalk, the laid-back setting means you’re welcomed with sandy feet and beach clothes. Dig into a bucket of fresh prawns and down a cold beer before heading back to the beach for the afternoon.

5pm A day by the water is best finished with a trip to the ice creamery. With sea salt still stuck to your sun-kissed skin, make your way to Noosa’s famous Nitrogenie, conveniently located across from the beach.

Using liquid nitrogen and real food ingredients to make the frozen treat, Nitrogenie’s never-before-tasted ice cream flavours – salty caramel popcorn, fig honey, vanilla bean crème brûlée and chocolate caramel cobbler – will have you wanting to return for dessert.

下午5时 来点冰冻的乳制品是结束一整天在水边的日 子最完美的方法。 拖着还充满着海盐的身躯 走到鲁沙有名的冷冻乳制品店Nitrogenie， 位于沙滩对面非常方便。 使用液氮和真正的

食物混合来使之凝固。Nitrogenie提供一些 您从未尝过的冰淇淋口味，包括咸焦糖爆米 花、无花果蜂蜜、香草豆焦糖布丁和巧克力 焦糖果馅饼，将会令您想要再回去品尝甜点。

8pm The place for dinner is Sails. There is rarely an empty seat at this seaside restaurant; hence, reservations are a must as they too can be hard to land.

However, the hassle of getting in is quickly forgiven at the first succulent bite of local Moreton Bay bug tails wrapped in pancetta. Housing the largest selection of wine on the Sunshine Coast, take your pick from more than 500 local or international drops to match your meal.

下午8时 吃晚餐的地方是一家名为Sails的餐厅。这家

下午1时 从鲁沙的哈斯汀街时尚区走到拥有白色海沙的 主滩只需几步路，非常方便。这是澳大利亚少 数面向北方的沙滩之一，能享受全日阳光和温 柔的海浪——非常适合冲浪初学者。喜欢阳光 的您可以尽情地享受太阳，倘若想要清凉一点 的地方可以到冲浪救生俱乐部，位于木栈道的 末端，悠闲的环境欢迎还是穿着沙滩服，满脚 还是沙的您光临。下午回到沙滩前先点一份新 鲜的大虾和冰凉的啤酒来降温吧。

In good hands Nothing beats a massage in paradise

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邻近海边的餐厅经常座无虚席，所以必需订 位，虽然位子也很难订得到。可是只要一尝 到被意大利培根包着的本地摩顿湾濑尿虾， 一切的艰辛和等待再也不重要。 阳光海岸 （Sunshine Coast）里拥有最广、最全的酒 单，从500款来自国内外的酒中挑出适合的一 款来配上您的菜吧。

Day two 第二天 8am What better way to start your day than with a round of golf? The undulating fairways of the Noosa Springs 18-hole course are set among bushland home to an abundance of wildlife – birds, snakes, koalas, you name it. If you’re a bit rusty, run through your short game at the driving range’s chipping and putting green or practice bunker before hitting the fairways.

早上8时 有什么方式能比一场高尔夫球来开始新的一 天更好呢？鲁沙温泉高尔夫球场（Noosa Springs）18个洞起伏的球道处于丛林，野生 动植物的家园之中——飞鸟、蛇、无尾熊等 等，只要您能想得到的都有。倘若您的球技 有点生疏，可以在开球前到练习场切杆和推 杆，或是练习沙坑击球。

10am Spend the rest of your morning feasting on a hearty buffet breakfast at the resort’s restaurant, Relish, followed by a quick trip to the spa.

The HydroMassage pool is sure to relieve any built-up tension from the morning game. Simply glide your

way through the various water-based massage zones that work on certain parts of the body from head to toe.

早上10时 将您早上其余的时间都花在酒店餐厅内享受 丰富的自助早餐吧，随后便前往水疗所。水 力按摩池必定能让您从早上高尔夫来的所有 肌肉紧张得以放松，您只需要到针对身体不 同部位的水疗按摩区就可以了，它们定能把 您从头到脚照顾周到。

12pm A must-do in Noosa is lunching on the Cruising Restaurant. Slowly sail along the coastline to discover the town’s many secret beaches only accessible

via foot or boat. Nothing will steal your gaze away from the emerald green waters and paper-white sands – that is, until lunch is served. The monstrous Surf ‘n’ Turf will take some effort to finish, so don’t feel guilty if you find yourself back by the railing, taking in the paradise before you.

下午12时 鲁沙的必备项目就是在船上共进午餐。沿着 海岸线缓慢地航行，游览镇上许多只有通过 步行或乘船才能到达的秘密海滩。午餐之前， 您可以尽情地饱览翠绿色的海水和像白纸一 样白的海沙。巨大的“Surf‘n’Turf”午餐 （结合海鲜和肉类的美式主餐）需要花一些时 间和一番力气才能吃完，所以如果您发现自

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己已经回到栏杆旁边却还没吃完， 并不需要 因此感到内疚。

3pm Docking at the marina – the home of Noosa Harbour Fish Market – you’re best to pick up some freshly shucked oysters, a perfect companion for the next stop. A couple of doors down you’ll come across Harbour Wine Bar, with a cellar filled with bottles from Australia, New Zealand, France and Spain just waiting for you to pop open.

you’ll be forgiven for mistaking it for just another home. Lit by candles and filled with mismatched tables and chairs, a cool breeze flows gently through the white louvred windows, breaking the heat on a summer’s night.

Quirky meal names like ‘Midnight Cowboy’ and ‘You Can Be A Pig Too’ are hard to decipher without help from the waiters, only adding to the eccentric charm. Finish your time in Noosa by casually sipping a cocktail on the dimly lit French-style garden terrace, while mentally planning your return.

下午3时 停靠在码头，也就是鲁沙港鱼市场的所在地， 最好是在这里买一些新鲜的生蚝，为下一站 做好预备。因为走过几道门就是海港酒吧 （Harbour Wine Bar），生蚝配酒真的是绝 配。酒吧提供来自澳大利亚、新西兰、法国 和西班牙的美酒，待等您把它们逐一弹开。

6pm Before overindulging in wine, head for a 20-minute sunset stroll down the marina to Bohemian Bungalow Restaurant & Bar. Housed in a quintessential Queensland bungalow,

下午6时 在您开始放纵饮酒之前，在夕阳下沿着码头漫 步20分钟到一家名为Bohemian Bungalow Restaurant & Bar波西米亚风格的餐厅。坐落 在一座典型的昆士兰式平房，倘若您误以为这 是您的另外一个家也不足为奇。室内点燃着蜡 烛，而且充满互不相配的桌椅，清凉的微风轻 轻地穿过白色百叶窗的窗户，打破了夏天夜晚 的炎热。餐馆里奇特的菜色如“午夜牛郎” 和“你也可以是一只猪”要是没有服务员帮忙 解释是很难懂的。最后在灯光昏暗，法式风格 的花园阳台上一边品尝鸡尾酒，脑海里一边盘 算着回程的事儿。◆

Eat & Sleep Eat Berardo’s Bistro 49 Hastings St, Noosa Heads berardos.com.au

Noosa Heads Surf Life Saving Club 69 Hastings St, Noosa Heads noosasurfclub.com.au

Sails 75 Hastings St, Noosa Heads sailsnoosa.com.au

Noosa Cruising Restaurant Noosa Marina/2 Parkyn Ct, Tewantin noosacruisingrestaurant.com.au Nitrogenie Shop 5, Laguna on Hastings Arcade 32, Hastings St nitrogenie.com

The Bohemian Bungalow 69 Memorial Dr, Eumundi bohemianbungalow.com.au

Sleep Noosa Springs Golf & Spa Resort Per night: $359 Links Dr, Noosa Heads noosasprings.com.au

r e s tau r a n t s 38

Taste of China

China Republic

在时髦、现代的装潢摆设里品尝中国的正宗美食。 欢迎来到悉尼China republic餐厅

谈

到中餐馆，安静私密可能不是第一个 出现在脑海的意念。同样的一家拥有 巨大兵马俑守卫的餐厅也让人很难联 想到一个低调却极其精巧的菜单。可是在China Republic却两者兼有。首先有柔和的色调， 以黑色和棕色为装饰、设有巨型华丽的门、墙 上全是陶瓷茶壶、天花板充满东方风情的遮阳 伞、贵宾室设有庞大的皇帝椅、还有紫禁城的 竹制模型（耗时两年打造）。室内装潢极其华 丽精致，是一家富有现代感的中国餐厅。没有 遍地的黄金、红色也寥若晨星，私密的情调让 您甚至想要在这里约会。食物也如出一辙的令 人惊叹，色香味俱全并且拥有精美的摆盘。 行政总厨余梅胜于2010年和2012年位居 中国名厨前50名，他制作出一流的菜单。招牌 菜片皮鸭皮香肉嫩，当您品尝那薄脆的鸭皮、 嫩滑的鸭肉时，别忘了预留空位给菜单上其他 的美食，如抄香蕉虾、宫保鸡丁或糖醋排骨， 饺子有两种选择——猪肉馅和猪肉沾四川麻辣 酱。虽然China Republic花了好些时间才抵达 悉尼，但绝对是值得等待的。 ◆

the authentic flavours of china in a swish, modern, setting. Welcome to sydney, China republic

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nderstated isn’t the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Chinese restaurants.

Likewise, a restaurant guarded by a giant terracotta warrior isn’t likely to have subtlety anywhere near the top of the menu. And yet, at China Republic, they’ve managed to offer up a bit of both.

First we have the muted tones, blacks and browns, of the decor. Yes, it houses giant ornate doors, walls full of clay teapots, ceilings filled with oriental parasols, private rooms with gargantuan emperor chairs and bamboo models of the Forbidden Palace (that took two years to build), but the interior has been so well thought out – this is a thoroughly modern take on Chinese restaurant. Gold is limited, red almost non-existent; you’d even take a

date here. The food is equally stunning, – time has certainly been taken with the plating and presentation.

Executive chef Mayson Yu was one of the top 50 chefs in China in 2010 and 2012 and his menu is first rate.

Peking duck is king, but as good as those slithers of crisp-skinned, fatty duck meat are, find room for some other gems on the menu – like sauteed banana prawns, punchy kung pao chicken with peanuts or sweet and sour pork spare ribs. The dumplings are limited to two kinds – simple pork and pork with spicy Sichuan sauce – but you’ll be glad you saved the belly space. It’s taken some time for China Republic to arrive in Sydney, but it’s been worth the wait. chinarepublicrestaurant.com.au

viewpoint

国建筑师布里格芬成功中标。因 此，堪培拉的城市规划就按照该方 案实施。 雄伟庄严的国会大厦在碧水如 镜的布里格芬人工湖上映出倒影， 世界上最高的库克船长喷水柱构 成了罕见的动态纪念碑。还有令 人叹为观止的各种现代化建筑， 如：国立美术馆、澳洲科学院、 国立大学、战争纪念碑、总督 府、高等法院、国立植物园等。 著名的堪培拉使馆区依山而 建，丛林之中掩映着世界各个国 家的使领馆，有超过上百个国家 的海外使节驻办于此。 中国大使馆的建筑设计为 典型的苏州园林式的传统宫殿 式建筑，琉璃瓦的屋顶，牌楼 样的大门。院内山石、清泉、 亭榭、楼阁无不洋溢着东方文 明的幽雅高尚，成为一个亮丽

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堪培拉的丰彩 潘华、胡玫

们。酒足饭饱之后，每个人都睡得很香，一 觉醒来天已大亮。看看周围，山清水秀，松 林翠柏，不禁雀跃欢呼，问此地何名？土著 人说这地方叫堪培拉，是土著语“聚会的地 方”。这不正是含有首都的意义吗？兴奋之 余，一致建议把首都定在堪培拉。1913年， 议会在所有23个提名方案中最终宣布堪培拉 成为新的首都所 在地。 在新首都的 奠基和命名仪式 上，总督托马 斯·登曼的夫人 拿到了一张纸条, 上面写着新首都 的名字。然而,对于这个源自土著语的单词 该如何发音？直到命名仪式开始前都无法统 一。只好由登曼夫人念成什么就是什么，于 是登曼夫人的读音就延袭至今。 在城市规划方面又有不同的意见，经过 激烈的争论后，联邦政府决定通过公开的国 际招标进行。最后在137个应征设计中，美

“堪培拉四季鲜花 盛开、姹紫嫣红， 被誉为花园城市”

Illustration:Anne Smith

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013年，年轻的首都堪培拉庆祝了她建 都100周年纪念，她由原来的一个小镇 发展成今天的现代化都市，一个树木苍 翠，绿草成茵，鲜花四季的花园城市。凡到 过堪培拉的人无不惊奇地赞叹市容的整洁有 序和令人耳目一新的现代化风格。从空中俯 瞰，整个城市宛如一幅美丽精致的巨型图案 画，既富有融合于周围田园诗意般的优雅， 又具有作为澳洲首都的莊严，使得整个城市 犹如一件精心雕刻的艺术品。 100多年前，当联邦政府提出要重新设 立澳大利亚首都时，曾有40多个不同的方案 竞相出台并各抒见解，尤其是墨尔本和悉尼 更为此争执不下，政府最后决定新首都将建 于两地之间。于是，国会派出了一些勘察队 去寻找适宜建都的地方。其中一支由墨尔本 向东北方向行进，经过数月跋涉，虽历尽辛 苦，然一无所获。 一日，筋疲力尽的勘察队在黄昏时到了 一个傍坡临河的地方，疲惫不堪的队员们一 下子全身酥软瘫倒在草地上。这群不速之客 被当地好客的土著人发现了，用酒肉款待他

的景点。 堪培拉四季鲜花盛开、姹紫嫣红，被 誉为花园城市。尤其是春天，著名的花卉节 是南半球规模最大的花展，她迷醉了多多少 少的海内外游客！整个城市变成了花的世 界、花的海洋、花的天堂，令人眼花繚然 的花朵在春风中摇曳，在春晖中开放，在春 光里梳妆，在春天里飘香，堪培拉的春天堪 称澳大利亚最美的春天。堪培拉的夏天则是 蓝天丽日，遍布全市的绿色繁茂草地变成了 金色，在傍晚的夕阳里，那一片片金色的草 地格外的耀眼夺目。秋天的堪培拉是天高气 爽，金风飒飒的季节。如果你登高远眺： 火红的枫叶和五颜六色的树木把整个堪培拉 装点得五彩缤纷，酷似一幅迷人的图画。冬 天，堪培拉早晚的气温比较低，早上常常 有雾，晨雾中的堪培拉更显得风情别种， 朦朦胧胧若隐若现的感觉会使你仿佛置身 于梦境之中，令人浮 想联翩。你更可以在 熊熊炉火边度过一个难 忘的炉边节，感受着阵 阵的暖意，享用丰盛的 美食。 国都城市堪培拉不 仅是澳大利亚政治、文 化、教育、科研的中心，也是一个世界著名 的美丽城市，她以年轻、美貌、浪漫、充满 青春活力的姿态活跃在世界政治的舞台上， 日益发出强劲有力的声音。（本文部分内容 取自于由胡玫、方腾在澳大利亚SBS国家民族 广播电台编播制作的系列节目《南方大陆— 澳大利亚》。）◆

flinders ranges

内陆的边缘 弗林德斯山脉（Flinders Ranges）位于澳大利亚 内陆的最边缘，是群山与沙漠汇聚的地方。您将会 在这个野外的地方和您的晚餐桌上看见国徽

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Out on the Ranges The Flinders Ranges are where mountains meet desert on the very edge of Australia’s Outback, and where the national coat of arms can be seen both in the wild and on your dinner plate Words and Photography Ewen Bell

flinders ranges

“ ‘ train on ’ is the call , and everyone steps outside to watch with a cold beer in hand ”

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R

By the Pound Shadows fall upon wilpena pound at sunrise

oss Fargher is a cattle man.

Nilpena Station is where he raises between 500 and 1,000 head of cattle, depending on the rains from year to year.

His land has more sand than cattle feed, and the cows compete with emus and kangaroos for what pasture grows after the rains come.

“It’s pretty dry up here most years, all the rain falls further south a little closer to Adelaide, or maybe in the southern end of Flinders Ranges,” Ross says. “When we do get rain in the winter it usually means lots of wildflowers and the red sand gets covered in grasses. It’s looking good for this year, will be big blooms this September.”

Cattle has become a tricky business in recent decades, so with the help of his wife Jane, the Farghers have added a historical hotel to their interests. The Prairie Hotel was originally built from fine South Australian sandstone in 1876, serving the railway traffic heading north from Adelaide. Today the train line carries coal instead of customers, and twice a day the locomotives slowly rumble past the town of Parachilna and the Prairie Hotel. The coal cars total over a kilometre in length, often

罗

斯 · 法 赫（Ross Fargher） 是养牛的。 南澳大利亚尼佩纳车站 （Nilpena Station）就是 他饲养500－1000头牛的 地方，数量随着每年的降 雨量而改变。土地上的沙 子比喂牛的饲料还多，所 以每逢大雨过后，牛与鸸 鹋和袋鼠争相吃着雨后从 牧场上长出来的一切。“ 这里是长年干旱的，雨水 都降在南边靠近阿德莱 德的地区，或是弗林德 斯山脉的最南部。当我 们在冬季有雨水时，也代 表着草里埋藏大量的野花 和红沙。今年的情况很乐 观，预计9月份时将百花 齐放。” 最近几十年牛业成为了 一项艰难的业务。在妻子 简·法赫（Jane Fargher）的协助下，法赫夫妻 俩开始经营一家拥有悠久

历史的酒店。大草原酒 店（Prairie Hotel）建于 1876年，以优质的南澳 砂岩建成，为从阿德莱 德乘坐铁路到北部的乘客 服务。 今天火车线全都用来运 载煤炭而不是乘客，慢慢 移动的机车一天两次驶 过帕拉叱纳小镇（Parachilna）和大草原酒店， 传来阵阵的隆隆声。煤车 总长超过一公里，通常在 黄昏时分驶进市内，为酒 吧的顾客提供一大看点。 “火车到了！”是火车 到达时的口号，当大家听 到这个口号便相继走到外 头，在夕阳下手拿着冰凉 的啤酒来观看火车。 大草原酒店有著名的佳 肴，如野生混合烧烤，这 道菜包括鸸鹋肉、袋鼠肉 和骆驼肉。罗斯发现这几 种动物在国家内数量泛 滥，故以“今天吃一点” 为口号作宣传，鼓励游客

flinders ranges 45

Home on the Range South Australia’s Flinders Ranges is the largest in the state, stretching for over 430km from Port Pirie to Lake Callabonna. Wilpena Pound itself covers almost 80 square kilometres and contains the Ranges’ highest peak, St Mary Peak, at 1,171 metres.

Top left Ross fargheR at nilpena station; Bottom right the prairie hotel

flinders ranges

“这种桃子是在内陆地 区摄取维他命C最好的 来源，经烹调后散发出 苹果跟木瓜的味道”

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Top Glass gorge parachilna; Above coat-of-arms meal, anyone?; Right ross fargher and wife jane at the prairie hotel

flinders ranges 47

hitting the town around sunset and providing a spectacle for patrons in the bar. “Train on!” is the call, and everyone steps outside to watch the train and take in the sunset with a cold beer in hand.

The Prairie Hotel is well-known for its culinary treats such as the Feral Mixed Grill, which features emu, kangaroo and camel in a single dish. Ross figures there’s too many of them running about the country anyway, and encourages travellers to reduce their numbers with the words: “Eat some today.”

Indeed, in the last decade, the rainfall in Outback regions has been higher than average, helping to fill the salt pans of Lake Eyre with rivers of water and helping the emu population to rise. A family of emus can have up to a dozen adult birds, and they tear through the green pastures, picking out the richest new growth.

Driving along trails around the cattle station or the national park demands considerable caution, as a panicked emu devotes its entire brain to running with very little thought to direction. Each bird weighs over 50kg and can do serious damage to a four-wheel drive at speed. Kangaroos and wallabies are even less predictable and far more numerous, making driving after dark a serious challenge for road safety.

法赫家族多年来在当 到访时多吃一点，帮忙减 地落地生根，代代相传。 少它们的数量。 过去十年在内陆地区的 罗 斯 的 兄 弟 伊 恩 · 法 赫 降雨量高于平均水平，使 （Ian Fargher），在其 艾尔湖（Lake Eyre）的 位 于 小 镇 布 林 曼 （ B l i n man）附近的地皮拥有一 盐田充满河水，也令鸸鹋 的数量增长。鸸鹋家族最 个牧羊场。伊恩的羊毛场 多可以有十二只成年鸟， 已经有百年以上的历史， 它们在绿悠悠的牧场中挑 原来的木地板以每季剪羊 毛所得来的天然羊脂作保 选出最鲜嫩的植物。 沿着牛车站或国家公园 养，得以保存至今。 伊恩使用小型单引擎飞 驾车要分外谨慎，因为当 紧张兮兮的鸸鹋全神贯注 机来检查羊场和物业的状 地往前跑时，它们很少会 况，以低空飞行在上空监 注意自己是正在往那个方 测水池的水位并观察牧场 向跑。每只鸸鹋的重量超 上的情况。位于安格里齐 纳农庄（ Angorichina 过50公斤，跟有速度的 四轮车撞上可造成严重的 Homestead ）后面的一 损害。袋鼠和沙袋鼠比 块草牧场刚好提供足够的 鸸鹋更大只而且更难预计 空间给他的塞斯纳172飞 它们的行动，大幅增加了 机作起飞和降落。 晚间驾驶的难度，安全驾 法赫车站处于弗林德 驶因此成为了一项严峻的 斯山脉的北端，一个对 挑战。 野生动植物有独特意义的 罗斯从农民的角度来总 国家公园内。罕见的黄足 结对鸸鹋的看法：“我宁 岩袋鼠是这个山脉特有的 愿看到它们在餐桌上，远 品种，它们不像一般的有 比在车站好。它们一旦进 袋动物喜欢漫游山野，反 到车站之后就剩下没多少 而是待在一个小小的范围 位子给牛群了。” 内。大部分的黄足岩袋鼠

Country fare

flinders ranges

fine dining at the prairie hotel

48 Ross sums up his affection for emus from a farmer’s perspective: “I’d rather see them on a dinner plate than on the station. They don’t leave much for the cattle once they get into it.”

RANGE ROVERS The Fargher family has been a local fixture for generations and Ross’s brother, Ian Fargher, runs sheep on his land near Blinman. The woolsheds on Ian’s property date back over 100 years, the original timber floors preserved by the natural lanolin from each successive season of shearing.

Ian uses a small single-engine aircraft to keep check on his property, flying overhead at low altitude to monitor water levels on the stock tanks and observe the condition of his pastures. A grass paddock at the back of Angorichina Homestead provides just enough clearance for him to take off and land his Cessna 172.

The Fargher stations are on the northern end of the Flinders Ranges, a national park of unique significance for wildlife and flora.

The rare yellow-footed rock wallaby is endemic to the ranges, an unusual marsupial that prefers to stay in small colonies instead of roaming the landscape. Most yellow-footed rock wallabies spend their entire lives within a few square miles of terrain.

Flinders Ranges is a dry environment with pockets of water trapped by gorges. River Gums grow tall in the narrow river beds, sending down deep root systems that solve their thirst in between the annual rains. These are modest mountains – just 1,200 metres tall at their highest point – but they reveal a deep geological history.

Fault lines have pushed layers of rock to the surface, up and sideways, revealing the strata of sandstone, quartzite and limestone that were laid down millions of years ago.

These ranges are so old that they’re eroding faster than the earth can push them up.

The jewel of Flinders Ranges National Park is Wilpena Pound, a volcanic crater that captures the best rainfall for hundreds of miles around. Scenic flights around the cliff faces reveal the dramatic geology of Wilpena, or you can hike to the top of the ridges for the best views in the park. It’s a short day’s drive from Adelaide. Dirt tracks wind through the National Park to connect Wilpena to Blinman and Parachilna to the north, with enough scenic stops en route to turn the short drive into a full day on the road. Most of the tracks are manageable with a two-wheel drive car, but are more comfortable in a four-wheel drive and less likely to be shaken apart.

Blinman, Wilpena and Parachilna all offer accommodation and food, but again it’s

“这些山的顶峰虽然只有 1200米高，却揭示了丰 富的地质历史”

flinders ranges

都是在几平方英里的领域 （Blinman）；帕拉叱纳 （Parachilna）和北部连 里度过一生。 弗林德斯山脉是一个干 起来，途中有许多的景区 站，让一小段的路程变成 燥的环境，水都被困在峡 谷里。河牙龈在狭窄的河 长达一整天。大部分的泥 路即使是两轮的车子也可 床里长高使水流出，解决 他们在每年雨季之间的需 以驶过，但还是四轮驱动 的比较不容易震动摇荡， 求。以澳大利亚的标准来 说这些山虽然不算出众， 驾起来更舒服。 布林曼、维凭拿和帕拉 顶峰只有1200米高，却 叱纳这三个小镇均提供住 揭示了丰富的地质历史。 断层线把岩层往上和两 宿和餐饮服务，却只有大 旁推到表层，使埋藏在底 草原酒店称得上有格调。 层数百万年的砂岩、石英 用餐室内的墙上以从北社 岩和石灰石露出来。这些 区 收 集 而 来 的 土 著 艺 术 山脉已经老到它们正在被 品精心布置，漂亮非常。 侵蚀的速度还比地球把它 酒 吧 内 您 可 以 找 到 本 地 摄影师彼得·麦克唐纳 们推起来要快。 弗林德斯山脉国家公园 （Peter Macdonald）的 中最珍贵的宝石是维凭拿 作品，以不同的艺术视角 庞（Wilpena Pound）， 来展示沙漠的魅力。 高质艺术当然要配上高 一个捕捉了周围数百英里 降雨量的火山口。悬崖风 质用餐。大草原餐厅的菜 景区的风景航机把维凭拿 单上具现代风格的菜色， 戏剧性的地质尽收眼底。 用上澳大利亚一些最上等 的材料。甚至羊肉也是来 您也可以徒步到公园山脊 的顶部，俯瞰院内最漂亮 自当地地区，在含盐灌木 的牧场里饲养，其独特、 的景色。 鲜明的肉香平衡了南澳带 从阿德莱德开车到维 凭拿庞只需要短短几天的 有土香味的红酒。 甜品之最是澳大利亚 路程。泥路穿越国家公 园，把维凭拿和布林曼 桃子派（Quandong

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Animal ecosystem In addition to livestock, the Nilpena Station is home to a fossil site. Fargher first discovered the site in the mid-’80s and it features ancient organisms from the Ediacaran Period. Each year, US geologist Dr Mary Droser visits the station to study the fossils, which she says date back at least 550 million years.

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the Prairie Hotel that sets the bar for style.

Inside the dining hall a curated collection of Indigenous art from communities further north graces the walls. Inside the bar you can find prints from local photographer Peter Macdonald, offering a different artistic perspective on the charms of the desert.

Fine art meets fine dining at the Prairie with a menu of contemporary flair that features some of Australia’s best ingredients.

Even the lamb is sourced from the region, having been grown on salt-bush pastures that give the meat a distinctive character balancing the earthy red wines of South Australia. Quandong pie is the dessert of choice, served with macadamia and caramel ice cream. Jane Fargher reveals the history of the dish: “It’s the best source of Vitamin C in the outback – the Indigenous people knew that of course. Once cooked it takes on the flavours of apple and quince.”

It’s not just the quandong pie and sunsets that add colour to Parachilna and the Flinders Ranges – it’s also the galahs. These pinkand-grey birds descend in numbers at dawn and dusk, filling the sky with noisy antics and chatter. A dead tree provides the perfect landing site for the birds, gathering as a group for social discourse.

Galahs, cockatoos and corellas are common features in this landscape, grazing birds that rummage through the soil and grass for roots and seeds. They’re more numerous than either kangaroos or emus, but haven’t made it onto the menu at the Prairie. Not yet anyway. u

Pie），配上坚果和焦糖 冰淇淋。简揭开了这道菜 背后的历史：“这种桃子 是在内陆地区摄取维他命 C最好的来源，土著人当 然知道。经烹调后就会散 发苹果跟木瓜的味道。” 帕拉叱纳和弗林德斯 山脉里当然不只有桃子派 和夕阳，能为这两个地方 增添色彩的还有粉红凤头 鹦鹉。每逢黎明和黄昏 时分，天空便会充斥着这 种混合了粉红色和灰色的

鸟，做出各种滑稽的动作 和发出喋喋不休叫声。已 枯萎的树为鸟儿提供了最 佳的着陆点，它们聚集成 群来一场社交交谈。 在这个领域里，粉红凤 头鹦鹉、凤头鹦鹉和长喙 凤头鹦鹉都是常见的品 种，放牧鸟翻找土壤和 草皮寻找根和种子，它们 的数量比袋鼠和鸸鹋还要 多，但没有被列进大草原 酒店餐厅的菜单里，至少 暂时还没有。u

Local fauna kangaroos and emus abound in the ranges

Do the trip Luxury Visit

Family Style

Driving Tips

The Prairie Hotel

Wilpena Pound Resort

大草原酒店经过精心重修，提 供现代化的豪华住宿。您可能 没有预计到在这里会有美食， 却在酒店内的餐厅有佳肴供 应。还可以跟伊恩·法赫安排 观光飞行，体验北部的风景。

维凭拿庞度假村（Wilpena Pound Resort）提供露营设 施、酒店客房和热食。弗林德 斯山脉游客信息中心位处这 里，可以找到徒步地图或在此 询问意见。观光飞行体验也最 好是在这里安排。

携带大量的水和些许食物以 便不时之需，特别是车子在较 小的轨道上行驶发生故障的 时候。进入国家公园和露营需 要收费，在清晨或黄昏时分开 车需要非常谨慎，因为这是袋 鼠最活跃活动的两段时间。

The Prairie Hotel is beautifully restored with luxury accommodation in a modern extension at the rear. The restaurant serves up great food where you least expect to find a gourmet option. Scenic flights of the northern ranges can be arranged with Ian Fargher as well. prairiehotel.com.au

Wilpena Pound Resort offers camping facilities, hotel rooms and hot meals. It’s also the location for the Flinders Ranges Visitor Centre if you need walking maps or advice. Scenic flights of the Pound are best arranged here. wilpenapound.com.au

Carry plenty of water and some food in case of a breakdown while travelling on smaller tracks. Fees are required to enter the national park and for camping, and great care is required when driving at dawn or dusk when kangaroos are most active. southaustralia.com

River life In the heart of the Hunan province, resting on the banks of the Tuo River, lies a slice of the Tang Dynasty, full of history, fortresses and plenty of tea breaks, discovers Trent van der Jagt Photography Trent van der Jagt

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River life Clockwise from opposite top left: Local girl in intricate costume; A welcome invitation to a street bar; stepping stone bridge; tourists enjoying river life; green tea drying in a local home; an elderly local enjoys some theatre time; quiet, stone streets of Fenghuang away from the bustle of mid-town; local man smashing up pecans for sweet delicacy.

This page: peaceful ponds of Qianzhou

“ fenghuang and its people are holding onto their traditions while rising to meet the future ” hunan

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he contorted finger of an old man beckons from the shadows of a splintered doorway, his weathered chin motioning towards a glaring phoenix engraved on his door. He whispers: “Tea? Relax? Want to kill some cancer?” How do you say no to that?

Inside, the sun spills through the cracked roof tiles and the floor seems to almost sway. But that could just be down to the knowledge that all that stands between the wood beneath your feet and the rushing Tuo River below are the toothpick stilts upon which it is propped. “See the golden dots?” the old man asks, holding a cake of black tea up to the light. “They’ll make you live forever.”

Longevity is important to the people of the 1,300-yearold water town of Fenghuang in the Hunan province – not just for individuals, but for the entire city. Having survived the wrecking ball of modern development, Fenghuang and its people, the Miao and Tujia ethnic groups, are holding onto their traditions while rising to meet the future. Inside the old tea seller’s home, the simplicity of the handcrafted furnishings and the owner’s barely concealed delight in topping up our thimblesized teacups speaks for the sentiment of the town. “Chinese visitors come to rekindle their own nostalgic visions of the past,” says our guide Tracey.

“While Westerners are looking for a preconceived image of rural China.”

After our tea break, it’s time to see what else draws the thousands of visitors to the ancient streets of Fenghuang.

Laid out like a true Ming Dynasty fortress, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed city of towers, gates and glowing pink walls rides over the ridges and valleys of the mountainous Nanhua region in the west Hunan province. Worn flagstone-paved alleys weave between intricate ancient residences, while bundled timber stilt houses (like our host’s) line the Tuo River, a tributary of the Yangtze. In China, where many pockets of the past are being traded for another row of carbon-

copy high-rise apartments, Fenghuang has stood the test of time, remaining one of the best-preserved ancient towns in China, and according to writer Rewi Alley, the most beautiful.

Thanks to its long history as a trading port, expect to find everything from a medicine cabinet packed with fungus and various animal appendages to caramelised ginger candy and dried pig faces staring you down as you walk Fenghuang. “The river has allowed locals to trade for generations in anything and everything,” says Tracey as she leads us through the alleyways.

“Some families have been selling the same tea, medicines and recipes for hundreds of years.”

Although the old ways can still be seen in the shuffling footsteps of men carrying sacks of grain and in the women washing clothes by the river, Fenghuang has had

Local tastes Like most of China, exploring the local cuisine in the Hunan province is a must. In every street and every restaurant of Fenghuang you will be able to track down some of the country’s best street food and snacks.

Keep an eye out for Fenghuang pickled radish, tofu in pickled vegetable soup, pickled fish in Miao style and Jiangtang, a ginger sugar treat for which the area is famous and which is said to be a reliable protection against the cold in winter.

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Flower power Clockwise from top: jars of pickled fish; street treats; local man in full costume; children enjoying river life; traditional musical cymbals; View from the top of the city wall; teenage girls selling flowers

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to adapt in order to survive in a modern world. And that’s where the tourists come in. “For every family business selling local produce, there are two stores competing to sell you tourist junk,” says Tracey, waving her hand towards the many stalls selling photos of the river and flamboyant costumes.

Fortunately, a quick sidestep off the main street reveals the other face of Fenghuang, an alley ablaze with azaleas, red lanterns and locals congregating around pots of freshly brewed tea. “Fenghuang must continue to balance the old world with the new, or it will be knocked down,” says Tracey. “If travellers bother to look, the ancient ways can still be discovered here.”

Without a single word spoken, a bowl of steaming noodles is waved under our noses by an old woman adorned with a long apron and paper cap, a welcome

Tw i n c i t i e s The Hunan province certainly isn’t short on ancient towns. Just over an hour’s drive from Fenghuang lies its twin city, Qianzhou. Located in Jishou city on the Wanrong River, Qianzhou dates back to the Qin Dynasty (221BC-206BC) and has become an important port connecting the inland townships with the surrounding Miao ethnic groups. While still drawing hundreds of visitors each day, Qianzhou has remained the quieter of the twin cities, focusing more on conservation and keeping the cultural arts of Tujia embroidery, painting and Miao drumming alive.

the water’s edge Heading back to the main street and narrowly escaping another costumed photo ambush, we make our way down to the water. Whether it’s fishing, swimming, cleaning clothes or offering a gondola ride to the crowds of tourists, the Tuo River is the lifeblood of the town.

Tea-green in colour with a sheen like polished jade, the river reflects the rippled image of the timber buildings above it. By the water’s edge a group of women wash their family’s clothes, too busy keeping a keen eye on their children jumping in and out of the water to be fazed by the crowds of tourists snaking around them. In the distance the green hills stand as silent sentinels, guard and witness to all that has flowed past.

Flowing from the mountains and straight through the city, all the bargains in China can’t compete with the river’s breadth and appeal. Whether you stroll along the riverbank, risk your neck hopping the slippery stepping stones to the opposite side, devote the afternoon to drinking beer in a waterside bar or brave the lengthy lines for a gondola ride, the river is the focus of any visit here.

“Buy a group ticket, that’s the trick,” says Tracey, smugly flashing a fistful of tickets to bypass the lengthy gondola line. While exploring the stone laneways by foot puts you in the thick of it, the grandeur of the city and its ancient walls only become clear from the water, despite the stilted houses threatening to topple on you.

Tuo River Clockwise from opposite top left: tempting zongzi, Chinese rice dumplings; gondolas meandering along the tuo river; children playing on the city walls; local life; the dominating main fortress gate of Qianzhou ancient town; A local man peers out from the doorway of his residence; tuo river running through the town centre; preparing for the town theatre. This page: food and fabric wares lining the quiet streets

hunan

“ fenghuang must continue to balance the old world with the new , or it will be knocked down ”

change from the fancy dress garments strewn across the main streets. She waves us through a small doorway into her restaurant and as we pile into a tightly packed communal table, Tracey translates the woman’s mumbles.

“My dumplings are the best, better than next door. I’ve been here the longest.” Although it’s tough to spot the nuances between all the small dumpling stores, it’s clear this is where the locals like to spend their time sipping tea, slurping noodles and swapping gossip.

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“ the people of fenghuang have found a balance that keeps the city and its

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culture intact ”

Drifting below the famous Rainbow Bridge (the only path across the river not crafted from mossy stones or makeshift timber), some of the city’s best-preserved architecture reveals itself.

The East Gate Tower demands your attention and the city wall stretches far into the mountains. Both built in the Ming dynasty, the bright-orange sandstone and imposing rusted gates transport you back to the city’s rich military past.

Dating to the Tang Dynasty (A.D. 660), Fenghuang’s roots lay in its strategic military position. With most of the Miao people settled in the surrounding hills, great walls and stockade village systems were constructed under Tian Zongxian, the governor of the Qianzhou province, to suppress the local ethnic groups. This established the area as the main strategic gateway connecting the Hunan and Guizhou provinces, where it was eventually named as one of the four prefectures of the Hunan province for its defensive strength.

With one foot barely back on dry land, Tracey excitedly tugs at our arms, listing all the temples and museums we still need to explore. Most of the current architecture of the city was established during the Ming Dynasty, characterised by large halls and towers decorated

Get your motor running While most streets are foot traffic only, every backstreet and lane is alive with classic motorcycles and scooters

with folk art, calligraphy and wooden carvings. Its long history means every corner of the city holds many untold stories of the past, where only snippets and jumbled folklore have been passed down. Decorative Maoist slogans from the Cultural Revolution, such as ‘Serve the People’, can still be seen on Confucian temples and ancestral halls.

balancing act Whisked between embellished Buddhist temples, local history museums and the burial place of Shen Congwen, a famous modern novelist, we finally step through the meticulously carved threshold of the Hong Bridge, a two-storey enclosed wooden bridge spanning the river.

After a full day’s trek through ancient streets, eating your weight in dumplings, noodles and sweets and absorbing over a millennium’s worth of history, settling down with yet another cup of green tea high above Fenghuang is the only way to soak it all in. The open-air tea house situated inside the Hong Bridge gives full views over the entire city as the wooden gondolas glide below you.

For all the ardent hustle and impassioned shopping from tourists, the locals have accepted how the city has grown. After some 1,300 years of war, political control and passed-down noodle recipes, its history is still very much alive. A local man atop the Hong Bridge tells us through Tracey’s translation, “I come here each day – so beautiful, so many stories to tell.” This attitude has served them well. Caught between the simple rural life and the cluster of camera-toting city folk, the people of Fenghuang have found a balance that keeps the city and its culture intact. u

When to visit With scorching summers and chilling winters, make sure your visit to Fenghuang falls during Spring and Autumn. With weekends already drawing large crowds, it’s advisable for tourists to also avoid the May festival (May 1 to 7) and the National Holiday (October 1 to 7) as the crowds can become difficult to move through.

Among the vines These days tasting the wine isn’t enough for the oenophile – you have to go and stay at a vineyard, too. Here are seven of our favourites Words Fiona Harper

藤蔓之间 时至今日，光是品酒已经不能满足葡萄酒鉴赏家们 的欲望，而是必需亲自到访和停留在葡萄园。 这里跟您介绍七个我们的最爱⋯⋯

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Moorilla (Tas) S t riking a rchitecture mee ts t r a dition a l v i n e ya r d s tay s

winem a king in a winning combin ation

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asmania is no shrinking violet on the world stage when it comes to award-winning wines.

Influenced by the Roaring Forties, the year-round cool climate has engendered a cult-like following for the state’s Pinot Noir, Riesling and sparkling wines.

Jutting out into the Derwent River on the outskirts of Hobart, Moorilla is one of the originals, with the first Riesling cuttings planted in the late 1950s. A sort of funky secular temple to the arts, Moorilla and its ‘look at me’ neighbour, David Walsh’s Mona (Museum of Old and New Art), have been credited with adding

much-needed spice to Tasmania’s homely tourism industry.

Visitors are flocking to the peninsula, arriving by boat from downtown Hobart, some choosing to spend a night or two in the Mona Pavilions. And why wouldn’t you? Particularly if your taste leans towards modern luxury with an eclectic twist. Think high-tech self-contained pavilions furnished with antiquities and artworks, and named after artists or architects such as Brett, Sidney, Arthur and Charles. A heated infinity pool, gym and sauna should help work off weight gained from imbibing Tasmania’s finest food and wines.

Bed & breakfast from $600 per room per night. moorilla.com.au

莫瑞拉(塔斯马尼亚) 壮观的建筑跟传统酿酒成为了一个成功的组合

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斯马尼亚不乏屡获 殊荣的葡萄酒。受 咆哮西风带（Roaring Forties）影响，全年清 爽的气候养育了黑皮诺 （Pinot Noir）、雷司令 （Riesling）和起泡酒。在荷 伯特（Hobart）郊区的德 文特河（Derwent River） ，莫瑞拉（Moorilla）是 其中一个葡萄酒拥有雷司 令第一批于1950年代后期 所扦插种植的葡萄。莫瑞 拉和呼喊着“看我吧”的 邻居——大卫·沃尔什 （David Walsh）的古今艺 术博物馆（Mona），一个 加进艺术国度中既时髦又 世俗的庙宇，它们被认为

为塔斯马尼亚平凡的旅游 业增加了许多趣味。 游客涌向半岛，从荷 伯特市区乘船出发，有些 人选择在莫纳酒店（The Mona Pavilions）停留一 两个晚上。那您为何不也 享受一下呢？这家酒店特 别适合喜欢现代奢华风格 的您。高科技的独立屋内 配有古董和艺术品，它 们以艺术家和建筑师的 名字而命名，如布雷特 （Brett）、悉尼（Sydney） 、亚瑟（Arthur）和查尔斯 （Charles）。温水无边泳 池、健身房和桑拿有助于 减掉从塔斯马尼亚最好的 佳肴和葡萄酒而来的重量。

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Cape Lodge (WA) E at, d rink, a nd co o k in the he a rt o f the M a rg a re t River

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inding Caves Road runs almost parallel to the coast approximately 3km away as the crow flies where a sparkling coastline is revered by surfers, beachgoers, sea changers and tree changers. Linking Dunsborough at the northern end with Augusta in the south, vineyards disappear up and over gently rolling hills either side of the asphalt. The odd state forest or sheep farm interrupts the vineyard vista momentarily with road signs pointing to an astounding number of cellar doors darting hither and thither.

A member of Luxury Lodges of Australia and akin to a private

country estate thanks to expansive manicured grounds including eight acres of vines, Cape Lodge sits smack in the heart of the Margaret River wine region. Stylish and sophisticated, accommodation ranges from garden rooms with their own courtyard in the main lodge through to a palatial private five-bedroom residence.

The lakeside Cape Lodge Restaurant is influenced by the region’s farmers, fishermen and graziers, and is open for breakfast and dinner. Plus there’s also an in-house cooking school for those inspired by the ever-changing seasonal menu.

Bed & breakfast from $575 per room per night. capelodge.com.au

海角旅舍（西澳） 在玛格丽特河（Margaret River）腹地吃、喝和烹调

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折蜿蜒的凯弗路 （Caves Road） 跟海岸线距离只有3公 里，几乎形成水平线。乌 鸦在波光粼粼的海面 上飞翔，海岸线附近还 有冲浪者、前往沙滩的 人、海洋和树木。登斯 波若（Dunsborough） 的最北部跟奥古斯塔 （Augusta）的南面连接， 沥青两旁的葡萄园随着山 丘连绵起伏逐渐消失，瞬 间有路标指向一个令人震 惊的酒窖数字。 澳洲豪华旅馆的成员之

一，类似于私人庄园的海角 旅社拥有经悉心修剪过的 8英亩巨型葡萄园，坐落于 玛格丽特河酒区的心脏地 带。旅馆时尚精致，提供 拥有私人庭院的花园客房 到富丽堂皇的私人5卧室 住宅。 河边海角餐厅受当地 农民、渔民和畜牧业影响， 提供当地菜色并有早餐和 晚餐供应。另外海角旅舍 还开设了一家烹饪学校给 对这个根据季节而不断变 化的菜单有兴趣的人士来 参加。

亚拉河谷酒店 （维多利亚）

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不论是动与静，在亚拉河谷酒店的活动多到让您最后或 许会选择什么都不做

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Yarra Valley Lodge (Vic) there is s o much to d o, you m ay

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lose enough to the fairways of the Heritage Golf and Country Club to hear the thwack of golf balls being hit, Yarra Valley Lodge is less than one hour’s drive east of Melbourne. The tree-lined banks of the Yarra River border the property, which is a popular weekend getaway for Melburnians who come to savour the delectable delights at neighbouring vineyards like Domaine Chandon and Yering Station.

Accommodation options are in either lodge rooms or the more spacious one-bedroom suites, which include either a small balcony or terrace. Suites offer ensuite spa tubs, a separate lounge and dining area, guest powder room and double-door access to the outdoors. The style is elegant and modern, bathed in natural light.

Golf fans will adore the two courses either side of the Yarra River. The southern St John Course was designed by Jack Nicklaus and consistently rates in

the top 50 in Australia. The newer Henley Course is a traditional links course boasting the longest Par 4 in Australia.

Heritage Yarra Valley Day Spa is the perfect retreat for rejuvenating weary bodies and nurturing overstressed souls.

Plant-based Australian LI’TYA products combine Indigenous plant knowledge with modern herbalism and are used throughout the spa for their restorative and invigorating properties. Or you could take an energising walk in the crisp Yarra Valley air for a similarly restorative effect.

店跟遗产高尔夫球 俱乐部（Heritage Golf）的球道很近，足以 听见球杆和球碰上的声 音。从墨尔本西边开车到 亚拉河谷酒店不到两个小 时的车程。亚拉河彼岸 绿树成荫，是一个受墨 尔本人欢迎的周末度假胜 地，他们也会前往邻近的 葡萄园如香东酒庄（Domaine Chandon）和优 伶牧场（Yering Station） 品尝佳肴和美酒。 住宿选择有标准客房 或较宽敞、包括一个小阳 台或露台的单卧室套房。 套房设有水疗浴池、独立 的休息室和用餐区、化妆 间和设有双门到室外。房 子沐浴在自然光线之中， 富有典雅和现代的风格。 高尔夫球迷定会喜

欢在亚拉河两旁的球场。 南面的圣约翰球场（St John Course）由杰克· 尼克劳斯（Jack Nicklaus）设计，并一直在 澳大利亚高尔夫球场排 行榜中名列前50名。较 新的亨利球场（Henley Course）是传统的林克 斯球场，拥有澳大利亚最 长的4杆球道。 亚拉河谷酒店日间水 疗中心（Heritage Yarra Valley Day Spa）是个 完美的地方使疲惫的身体 重新得力。使用以植物为 原料的澳大利亚护肤品牌 LI’TYA，其产品结合当 地的植物知识和现代草药 学，具有恢复和重新的功 效。或者您可以步行在亚 拉河谷清新的空气中，也 能达到类似的功效。

Bed & breakfast from $199 per room per night. yarravalleylodge.com

Port Phillip Estate (Vic) v i n e ya r d s tay s

Sustainable Winemaking on the Mornington Peninsula

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riving towards the cellar door that rises above the vines, it’s abundantly clear this is not your average vineyard.

The brainchild of ex-Sydneyto-Hobart yacht racer Giorgio Gjergja, his brief to architects was to ‘build a truly outstanding and uncompromising architectural landmark, the most exciting new winery in Victoria.’ Opening in 2009, winemaking is overseen by two-time Winemaker of the Year finalist Sandro Mosele, whose wines are described as precise, expressive and harmonious, much like the man himself.

Sophisticated rammed earth suites at Port Phillip Estate come with couches draped with reindeer pelt throw rugs and leather

headboards bookending kingsize beds. Living areas open onto private terraces overlooking vines and offer views of Bass Strait in the distance.

Guided by sustainable agriculture principles that encourage balanced vines, Port Phillip Estate utilises biological farming through natural, hands-on methods.

This basically means grapes are nurtured and revered from harvest to consumption. Open for lunch and dinner (check for opening times and days), the dining room menu is influenced by the seasons and is reminiscent of a chic modern chateau with an outdoor terrace that’s perfect for balmy summer evenings.

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菲利普港酒庄（维多利亚） 持续在摩林顿半岛（Mornington Peninsula）上酿酒

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Bed & breakfast from $450 per room per night. portphillipestate.com.au

车前往高于葡萄藤 的酒窖，显然这有 别于您平常见过一般的 葡萄园。这个地方是前 帆船选手乔治（Giorgio Gjergja）的心血结晶， 他给建筑师的简要是“建 立一个真正优秀、不妥协 的建筑地标，在维多利 亚州最令人兴奋的新兴酒 庄。”酒庄于2009年开 业，酿酒的过程是由连续 两年入围“最佳年度酿酒 师”决赛的桑德罗·莫斯 里（Sandro Mosele）监 督，他所酿的葡萄酒被描 述为精确、有个性和协调 性，很像他本人。 菲利普港酒庄的房间 既高雅且富有大自然风

情，设有披上驯鹿毛皮小 毛毯的沙发和附有皮革 床头的特大号床。起居室 跟私人阳台连上，俯瞰 葡萄园和远处的巴斯海峡 （Bass Strait）。 在主张永续农业、鼓 励葡萄藤平衡地发展的 领导指导下，菲利普港酒 庄利用自然的方法——生 物农业来耕种。这代表葡 萄从收成到食用的整个过 程中都被悉心的培育和 照料。餐厅The Dining Room开放午餐和晚餐（ 查看开放时间和天数）， 菜单受季节影响而转变。 还有让人联想到别致、现 代城堡的户外露台，很适 合夏天风和日丽的晚上。

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The Louise (SA) E x plo re the bes t o f the Ba ross a’s wine a nd cuisine in count ry- s t y l e luxury

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he Barossa Valley in South Australia, 60km from Adelaide, is Australia’s best-known wine-producing region, with the first grapes grown by European settlers in the mid-1800s.

In the heart of the Barossa’s wine country, suites at The Louise reflect understated elegance in a

modern contemporary design that doesn’t skimp on luxuries like fireplaces, king-size beds, Bose iPod dock stations, vast ensuites with double spa tubs and private outdoor showers. The peace and quiet is palpable.

It’s the kind of place that invites guests to chill out and relax, immersing themselves in the dreamy landscape while indulging in the finest food and wine at one of Australia’s most highly regarded fine-dining restaurants.

The signature chef’s tasting menu at Appellation, by executive chef Ryan Edwards, is designed for sharing, highlighting the very best seasonal produce sourced from friends, neighbours or farmers in the greater Barossa Valley.

Naturally, Appellation’s wine list is extensive (there are over 500 wines on offer) and features an inspiring selection of iconic Barossa wines as well as those from further afield.

Room only from $446 per room per night. thelouise.com.au

路易丝酒店（南澳） 以奢华的乡村风格来探索巴罗莎(Barossa)最佳的美食 和葡萄酒

芭

萝莎谷是南澳最知 名的葡萄酒产区， 第一串葡萄是由欧洲移民 于1800年代中期栽种的。 坐落在巴罗莎葡萄酒 区的中心，路易丝酒店 现代化设计的套房体现 低调的优雅，当中不乏奢 华的一切如壁炉、特大 号床、Bose多媒体播放 器、双人水疗浴缸以及私 人户外淋浴。尽是和平与 宁静。 这是一个让您能邀请 宾客一起放松身心，沉浸

在梦幻般的景观中享受澳 大利亚最受推崇的高级餐 厅的佳肴的好地方。由行 政总厨赖安·爱德华兹 （Ryan Edwards）主厨的 招牌品尝菜单，埃派雷圣 （Appellation）是一家共 享的餐厅，强调从巴罗莎 谷的朋友、邻居或农民采 购而来最好的时令食材。 埃派雷圣餐厅有全面的酒 单（超过500款酒），拥 有令人雀跃的标志性巴罗 莎葡萄酒以及一些来自更 远地方的葡萄酒供选择。

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Spicers Vineyards Estate (NSW) A n intim ate es tate perfect fo r rom a ntic ge taways

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he Brokenback Mountains dominate the vista from the vineyards, along with the natural bushlands of Spicers Vineyards Estate in the Lower Hunter Valley.

Approximately two hours’ drive north of Sydney, the area is home to some of Australia’s oldest and best-known labels such as Tyrell’s, McWilliam’s and Tulloch. Plus the region is blessed with boutique vineyards developing innovative new styles and flavours.

Spicers is a five-star guest house offering an elegantly intimate getaway in a choice of 12 suites. Four luxury spa suites

have been added to the original king spa suites. Wood-burning fireplaces provide warmth as well as ambience, while king beds and spa baths plus a complimentary arrival mini-bar create a luxurious private haven. Ground-floor suites have French doors opening onto a garden terrace, while upstairs suites enjoy sweeping views across the vines to the mountains beyond. Luxury spa suites include extras such as a Nespresso coffee machine, private courtyard or balcony, underfloor ensuite heating and rain shower heads.

Guests can test their skills on the boules/bocce court, chill out beside the pool and spa, or get pampered at Spa Anise. Restaurant Botanica has a reputation for exceptional fine dining specialising in modern Australian cuisine based on wine-friendly flavours (open for lunch on weekends, dinner Wednesday to Sunday).

Bed & breakfast from $395 per room per night. spicersgroup.com.au

香料师葡萄园庄园 （新南威尔斯） 完美的浪漫度假庄园

从

葡萄园眺望尽是断 背山山脉（Brokenback Mountains）的风景 和位于下猎人谷（Lower Hunter Valley）的香料 师葡萄园庄园（Spicers Vineyards Estate）。从悉 尼北部出发约2小时车程， 该地区是一些澳大利亚最 悠久和最有名的酒品牌的 出产地如天瑞（Tyrells）、 马克威廉（McWilliams） 和塔洛奇（Tulloch），加 上该地区拥有得天独厚的 精品葡萄园来开发创新的 风格和口味。 香料师葡萄园庄园是 一家五星级旅馆，12间套 房提供一个优雅的亲密 之旅。除了原有的King Spa水疗套房以外还有4 间Luxury Spa豪华水疗套 房。燃木壁炉不单提供温

暖还增添了氛围。特大号 床和水疗浴缸以及免费 的迷你吧供您到步后享 用，这一切制造了一个豪 华的私人天堂。底层的套 房内有法式门通往花园露 台，楼上的套房能享受一 览无余的葡萄园和群山之 景。Luxury Spa豪华水疗 套房包括额外的享受如 Nespresso咖啡机、私人 庭院或阳台、卫浴采暖地 板和花洒淋浴头。 客人可以到室外地滚 球场大展球技、室外游 泳池和温泉浴场旁放松身 心、或是前往室内的水疗 所Spa Anise来宠一下自 己。Botanica餐厅以出众 的现代风味、味道宜佐酒 的澳大利亚菜肴而闻名（ 周末提供午餐，周三至周 日提供晚餐）。

Crane Wines (Qld) Enjoy l aid- back country charm in a heritage v i n e ya r d s tay s

homestead in south-east Queensl and

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ueensland, known for its tropical beaches and offshore islands bathed in sunshine, is rarely recognised for producing great wine. However, there are a couple of pockets in the cooler parts of the state where vines flourish and vignerons are at the top of their game. The South Burnett region 2.5 hours west of Brisbane is one of them, with the South Burnett Wine Trail centred on the regional hub of Kingaroy.

Crane Wines is positioned on a ridge with panoramic views across fertile farmlands and the Booie

克兰酒庄（昆士兰）

Range. The vineyard specialises in liqueurs that ‘dance on your 在昆士兰东南部的文物基地享受悠闲的乡村魅力 tongue’ under the label Booie Range Liqueurs. Two self-contained rooms within the original homestead, 士兰州拥有著名的热 的感觉。原来已有的家园 separated from the main residence 带海滩以及沐浴在阳 里有两个设备齐全的客房， but linked via a classic timber 光下的沿海岛屿，甚少被 跟主要居住的地方以木质 veranda, are perfect for two couples 认为能出产优质的葡萄酒。 走廊分隔，非常适合两对 or a small family group. Bedrooms 然而在比较清凉的地区有 情侣或小家庭入住。睡房 are furnished with antiques 几个上好的葡萄园和优秀 内的古董家具是从朱迪· passed down through owner Judy 的葡萄种植者。位于布里 库珀（Judy Cooper）的 Cooper’s family for generations. 斯班西部2.5小时路程的南 家族代代相传下来的。这 The vibe is casual and friendly – 伯内特（South Burnett） 里带着随意和友好的氛围， almost old-fashioned, in the nicest 是其中之一，南伯内特 以几乎是古板中最好的方 possible way – where guests are 试酒会（South Burnett 式让客人像失散多年的朋 welcomed like long-lost friends.

Wine Trial）在金格罗伊区 友般被欢迎。 Dinner (and breakfast) BBQ （Kingaroy）的枢纽举行。 晚餐（和早餐）有烧烤 packs are available for guests to 克兰酒庄处于山脊，欣 套餐供应，让客人自己下 self-cater. The region is known for 赏到肥沃的农田和布姬山 厨。该地区以精致的美食 fine gourmet produce, perfect for 脉（Booie Ranges)全景。 食材著称，适合野餐或是 picnic-style hampers, or you could 这里的葡萄园盛产甜酒， 可以致电到附近的Capcall into nearby Captain’s Paddock 带有布姬山脉标签的甜酒 tains Paddock葡萄园（提 Vineyard (breakfast and lunch). 有 “ 在 您 的 舌 头 上 舞 动 ” 供早餐和午餐）。

昆

Bed & breakfast from $150 per room per night. cranewines.com.au

Once only known for being the trading centre of the Factory of the World, Guangzhou has been reborn.

Alex Mead discovers the modern face of Canton Photography Sarah Coghill

face

guangzhou

G ame

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From a distance

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the industrial tradition of guangzhou belies its glitzy new exterior

“ hosting the asian games in 2 0 1 0 changed everything . billions were spent in changing the infrastructure ”

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or a city renowned as the place where the deals are made for the ‘Factory of the World’, Guangzhou doesn’t look half bad – or overly industrial – from the viewpoint on Baiyun Mountain. Cable cars quietly trundle their way over a carpet of deep forest that spreads from the highest peaks, flowing down into the city like green lava. It almost has a serene, Hollywood post-apocalyptic feel where the world is beginning to regenerate and start over. Give it another 10 years and maybe the skyscrapers will be encased in untamed vines, with monkeys and other wild animals their only inhabitants.

But from a distance where buildings look like LEGO, things can be deceptive. Take that cable car down to the bottom and you do indeed have a bustling city, but it’s still not the one you expect to find if you’ve heard what they used to say about Guangzhou. If you visited here 10 years ago, then today you’d barely recognise it.

Indeed, thanks to sport – of all things – it did get to start its world over again. “Hosting the Asian games in 2010 changed everything,” explains Charles Yeung, manager of the Jianguo Hotel. “Billions were spent in changing the infrastructure: roads, bridges, railways, and basically dressing up the city.”

Don’t think that dressing was merely

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Light show The breathtaking 600m canton tower features a 450m observation deck

guangzhou

applying a touch of cover-up – this was drastic plastic surgery. Huge swathes of land were reclaimed from marsh, the skyline became a bit more filled with swish buildings, and a whole new business district was created.

They even took care to create green spaces and public plazas. This only added to the likes of IBM, Samsung, Sony and all manner of other Fortune 500 blue chip companies that were already residents; business has never been a problem in China’s third city, especially with the famed Guangdong workforce on its doorstep. “Ten years ago, there were no international brands of hotels here,” continues Yeung, whose five-star hotel is one of the few that are Chinese-owned. “Now we’ve got everyone – Hilton, Marriot, Ritz-Carlton...”

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Depending on where you read it, anything from about 122.6 to 257 billion yuan was spent on the city of Guangzhou for the Asian Games. To put that into perspective, hosting them probably cost at least five times the amount South Africa spent hosting football’s World Cup. It has to be said, though, they did a pretty good job. Head to the Pearl River New City in the Tianhe District (Guangzhou’s new CBD, once just marshland) and you can see the transformation in all its glory. From a luxury suite in the Ritz-Carlton (still with that new hotel smell) you can see the very best of what’s happened to Guangzhou. To the left, the spaceage Guangzhou Museum looks like it could transform at any moment into a laser-blasting robot. To the right is an opera house designed to resemble two polished pebbles, tying in neatly to the Pearl River’s heritage. In reality its granite, glass and steel frame makes it seem less like a couple of pebbles and more like the kind of thing the museum robot would use to destroy other planets. Either way, the architecture is stunning.

Continuing your view across the front of

“ C ompleting the picture , or rather dominating the picture , is the canton tower ”

On tour Our guide in Guangzhou, Fanny, was from Wendy Wu Tours, which offers a three-day/two-night city stay with an itinerary taking in the best of the sights – perfect for making the most of 72 hours visa-free. Prices start from $285 per person, visit wendywutours.com.au for more details.

A whole new world

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billions have been spent modernising guangzhou, with breathtaking results

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Guangzhou by numbers

8.5

million people live in Guangzhou, roughly

600

metres, the height of the Canton Tower

165,436

visitors to its twice-yearly Canton Fair

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billion dollars (US) – estimated cost of hosting the games

9,704

athletes competed in the 2010 Asian Games

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rams form the most famous sculpture in Guangzhou, the city’s emblem

206

BC, when a city first stood where Guangzhou is today

the Ritz-Carlton, you’ve then got the opening ceremony stadium of the Asian Games on the small slither of Haixinsha Island – once the garrison for the People’s Liberation Army, intending to resemble a giant ship with huge steel sails that unfold during the ceremony, and a grandstand for a stern.

While costing millions to build and design, it’s had no other purpose whatsoever other than hosting that single ceremony. It never held any actual sport, and today it only gets to dust the cobwebs off occasionally for a pop concert. Still, it’s a nice place to wander around.

Completing the picture, or rather dominating the picture, is the Canton Tower.

Breathtaking is the only word. Literally.

Six hundred metres high, it breaks records across the board, including the highest observation deck at 450m. Until the CN Tower topped it, it was even the highest tower in the world. As terrifying as it is to look down through its glass-bottomed observation decks, for the adventurous greater thrills await. Around the outside rim, above the nicely enclosed area where normal people take in the views, bubble trams slowly circle the tower.

Not scary enough? How about the Sky Drop? This is where you sit in a row of four seats, a bar keeping you in place while you’re propelled up and down the centre of the tower, taking you on a 485m plunge down and back again. You can even do it in a kind of standing up, tilting way so you can see the ground coming terrifyingly towards you at speed – although why you’d do want to do that for fun is anyone’s guess.

Rebirth of a city

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haixinsha island’s stadium beneath the guangzhou international finance centre

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Sleep Mandarin Oriental

Ritz-Carlton

Jianguo Hotel

在这里除了有五星级酒店集团应有的一切，还有 广 州名厨辉师父旗下的江餐厅，是广州最好的粤菜馆之 一。酒店里设有一流的水疗中心和健身房，让酒店锦 上添花的是位于相邻的奢华购物广场。 As well as the usual slick five-star offerings you expect from the group, this is also home to Jiang, the flagship restaurant of Chef Fei, one of Guangzhou’s best. The spa and gym are both first-rate, and as an added bonus the hotel adjoins a high-end shopping mall.

当您身在中国时，没有任何东西比得上带点英国殖 民复古风格的广州富力丽思卡尔顿酒店，是经典中 的经典。感觉就像已经有100多年历史。酒店内的 Churchill酒吧是享用最好的干邑白兰地和雪茄的地 方。还提供一流的美食。 Nothing like a bit of old-school colonial British style when in China. Truly timeless, it feels like it’s been here 100 years, not just a few. The Churchill bar is the place to go for the best Cognac and cigars in town.

广州建国酒店是城内少数由中国人拥有的奢华酒店。 酒店里不只提供粤菜的特色佳肴，还制作出城内数 一数二的北京烤鸭。采用从北京进口的鸭子、酱料和 特制烤箱！ One of the few luxury hotels in the city that’s actually Chinese-owned. Not only do they do all the local Cantonese specialities, but they also do some of the best Peking duck in town – shipping in the ducks, the sauce and even a special oven from Beijing!

mandarinoriental.com

ritz-carlton.com

jianguohotelgz.com

Luckily, much more pleasant things also reside within the tower, be it 4D and 3D cinemas, galleries, restaurants, cafes or shops. Come night-time, the Canton Tower puts on a light show along with the other major buildings along the Pearl River to become the highlight of a cruise. It’s the must-do thing on any itinerary to Guangzhou – along with eating as many dumplings as you can in a city that’s the home of Cantonese cuisine, of course.

As good as the dumplings are, though, the arrival of some of the big boys of the hotel world has considerably improved the dining options in Guangzhou, bringing with them high-end Italian and French to offer something beyond the exceptional local favourites.

At the Ritz-Carlton’s Italian LIMONI, you could enjoy a dinner of braised veal shanks in tomato, white wine and herb sauce followed by zabaglione before heading to the thoroughly British Churchill bar to lounge in one of its deep-buttoned leather chairs while puffing on a cigar and enjoying a glass of the finest Cognac or a single malt.

A bit further back from the river, but still in the Tianhe district, you’ll find another exceptional place to eat: Ebony at the Mandarin Oriental, also so new they probably haven’t even taken all the packaging off parts of it. Here, Swiss chef Marcel Kofler brings together the best of China’s produce with his own European-influenced food. Chinese foie gras is surprisingly good (who knew?), particularly when served with the dry aged snow dragon wagyu. Kofler’s burger, though, is a masterpiece: wagyu beef (cheek, braised for six hours), foie gras, truffle, arugula, Gruyere, pork belly and onions on a grilled sesame brioche – this is pretty much an a la carte menu in a bun.

Not all of the hotels are looking west to improve their offerings, however. Back at Jianguo, they pride themselves on doing a Chinese classic, Peking duck, better than anywhere else in town. Not only have they brought in a special duck oven, but they also bring in all of their ducks and the famous hoi sin sauce from Beijing. “It’s a secret recipe, that they don’t like to share,” explains Yeung. “This is 148 years of tradition in a plate. We had to

Gastronomic delight marcel kofler has produced some refined dining at his ebony restaurant, top right

guangzhou

DINING OUT

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“ it ’ s a recipe they don ’ t like to share . this is 1 4 8 years of tradition in a plate ”

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send our chef to Beijing for a few months to learn how to carve the duck correctly.”

The end result is something to behold.

Despite using something akin to a cleaver, the chef is deft and quick with his work, crisp flesh blistering and spitting hot duck fat as his razor-sharp blade slices through it. It’s a mouthwatering process leading to a hunger sated only by trying one of the delicate folded pancakes packed with the right ratio of meat, skin, sauce, cucumber and shallots. Dip a slice of skin in sugar, though, and you’re in a whole new food utopia of sugary, fatty, ducky deliciousness.

“Not even in Hong Kong can you get duck like this,” explains Yeung.

Hong Kong is actually a handy comparison for Yeung’s city. For a long time, the former British colony was seen as almost a segue between China and the western world, but in Guangzhou, once the start of the maritime Silk Road, we now have a true gateway to China. While it may have once disappeared from the travellers’ map, it has now made quite the return. Welcome back, Guangzhou. ◆ This page jianguo’s legendary peking duck and, left, beautiful seafood at the Mandarin oriental’s ebony restaurant

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the longest drive It’s a golfer’s ultimate dream.

Grab a car, pack your clubs and get set to tour Australia for one of the world’s great golfing road trips.

Matt Cleary did just that...

Sydney to Narooma From Sydney I headed south to the NSW Southern Highlands where I played Mt Broughton, a fine and rolling inland linksstyle course with fairways that wind between long, white danger grass. From there it was to Canberra, and Royal Canberra and Federal GC, and a fine rolling green beast called Gold Creek designed by Lee Trevino.

I played Narooma and watched whales breaching from the front bar with the locals.

I played the famous “Hogan’s Hole” and had 36 points in the Narooma Open. I fished among seals and fellows who didn’t want to be photographed because they had warrants in other states. One fisherman was a blind man who constructs ‘wishing wells’, which he sells for $20. One fellow tied a giant concrete cinder block to his line and laughed as the blind bloke wound up a “monster of the deep.”

Down the coast and into Victoria I saw kangaroos figh in the mist. I played Lakes Entrance, a windy links of the Eastern

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few years back, I put my clubs in the back of a station wagon and drove around Australia to play golf.

In 120 days I completed a full lap of the continent, clocked 25,000km and played 65 rounds everywhere from Barnbougle Dunes to “The Boabs” in Derby in north-west WA. Now, I could recall every course, town and person I met, but that’d be like Marge Simpson’s sisters and their Mexican odyssey slide night.

Instead, we’ll go a little Lonely Planet and write a rough guide to one man’s Big Lap. First thing if you’re considering such an odyssey – and it sounds obvious – is there’s a whole lot of driving. You’ll drive astoundingly long distances. You’ll kill wild road-beasts.

You’ll shake as mighty road-trains thunder by like juggernauts from space. You’ll eat everything from hamburgers in desolate roadhouses to oysters fresh off the rock.

But mainly, you’ll live large on the biggest golf tour known to humankind. And you’ll play some of the world’s best and most exotic golf.

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Gippsland. Cutting inland I headed over the mountains to the mighty Murray and Yarrawonga, 45 holes of golfing goodness.

The Murray Course is the pick, all giant red eucalypts, roos and river birds, with sunlight streaming through the massive gums and shadows giving the course contours.

And so westwards through Victorian farm country to Bendigo for an Echuca chardonnay and duck pate, then the Novotel’s Forest Resort north of Ballarat. The huge room had a log fireplace, spa bath, two huge plasma TVs, a balcony, a bed the size of Belgium, and a tidy, internet-capable office space with a tee-to-green view of the par 4 first. Golf-journo heaven.

The course? Forest-framed greens, cathedral-like passages, slopes and creeks and Aussie bush. It’s dry rather than subtropical but there are shades of Bonville and Brookwater about the undulating fairways and tall eucalypts, while the greens are hard with slope and tiers and nuance.

Melbourne TO ADELAIDE, VIA TASMANIA On the road again and south-east to Melbourne and St. Kilda where I ate cakes on Acland Street, listened to rock music in The Esplanade Hotel (“The Espy”), the icon of Australian pub rock,

and played Huntingdale, scene of 30 straight Australian Masters. I played Greg Norman’s snakey Settlers Run in Mornington. And I played The National – a golfer’s wet dream.

The National? It’s three courses – Old, Coast and Moonah – all in the Australian Top 50.

I played Moonah, ranked eighth. Fabulous track: gnarly, wind-blown, rugged, beautiful.

Rollercoaster fairways bordered by wind-bent, tough, salty seaside flora snake up to huge, fast, undulating, interesting greens with the hardness and look of a green centre-wicket at the MCG. Then I flew to Tasmania. Straight from Launceston it was up to Barnbougle Dunes, its spectacular bunkers, dramatic par 3s, signature white marram grass, wind and theatre, salt licks off Bass Strait, and all the other bits and pieces making it the most memorable course in Australia. New South Wales? Best I’ve played. But Barnbougle Dunes is something else. Google it. Book flights. Play.

And so south to Launceston GC, and south again to Royal Hobart for a tournament hosted

by Matthew Goggin, and then back up to the middle of Tassie for some hickory-stick golfing in Bothwell, one of the oldest courses in Australia.

Back to Melbourne and a drive to Adelaide along the Great Ocean Road. Along the way I ate hamburgers, drank milkshakes and played

“ D own the coast and into V ictoria I saw kangaroos fighting in the mist �

Down by the ocean No australian road trip is complete without winding down the iconic great ocean road

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Warrnambool’s gnarly wind-bent links. I belted balls at the Apostles and drove through Robe and the Big Lobster of Robe before coming to Royal Adelaide and Glenelg and Grange GC, east and west. Great golf.

That is all. And so to Royal Perth with the friendly captain, a local Member of Parliament, and Keith Ellis, a chap with a golf radio show who interviewed me for the rest of the trip.

The Nullarbor

For 2362km I did 150km/h on the flat, straight, roadkill-strewn stretches, the wagon a red tracer bullet. Sights? Apart from the dead beasts and black stretch of bitumen, there’s nothing on the coast of Western Australia. To the left is several million square kilometres of water, to the right several million square kilometres of desert. And that is all.

Well, in the water there are whale sharks, sea lions and dolphins, and giant tankers hauling black stuff to China. There’s the lobster factory tour of Geraldton where I bought a lobster for $20 and washed it down with sauvignon blanc on the beach. There’s Ningaloo Reef, where one can walk into the beach with a snorkel and see coral as good as any on the Great Barrier Reef. And there’s the mighty cranes and ground-gouging equipment that make Port Hedland look like a world run by huge machines.

There was no golf, though I did hit balls in the weird Star Wars-like land called ‘The Pinnacles’, and on the beach near the dolphins of Monkey Mia. I even hit balls on the white sands off Ningaloo Reef and saw a reef shark while snorkelling. But mainly I drove. And drove. And drove…

Yes, the Nullarbor. Fair old drive in which I stopped at roadhouses to yarn with mad Poms on bicycles riding thousands of kilometres being eaten by flies. I stopped in Eucla and played its ridiculous golf course in the desert, with its painted trees and black-tar greens. I drank Emu Bitter and ate fish caught that day.

And I parked on a cliff and hit golf balls into the Great Australian Bight.

Then it was west and south-west to Esperance, a beautiful cold-water land with a golf course populated by furry, fat geese, then onwards to Albany, which has a great golf course and local legends like “Scruffo”, an ex-journo who played nine holes with me using a putter and breaking 50. The man’s a 75-year-old boy.

And so to Margaret River and the most fun of the trip, playing Australia vs. Ireland skins with a couple of locals and a cart full of red wine. I liked it here best: wine, golf and beautiful surf beaches, a heady combination.

Then it was to Bunbury where I was interviewed on ABC radio, and to Mandurah and the wind-polished gem that is ‘The Cut’. If you’re in Perth, head south and play the Cut.

Perth to Broome

Rare sights Occasionally the outback sky throws up a treat

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When I reached Broome I stayed for a week, drinking beer and playing golf and lying on the beach, and walking in the heavy rains of the night. Gee it was good. You could enjoy Broome. But you’d eventually go crackers. It’s hot and wet and mist rains from special hoses in the rooves of the pubs. True story.

Broome to Darwin From Broome it was east to Derby where I played “The Boabs” with its honesty box and giant fat-lady trees, and eagles that eat dead beasts on the fairways. And then it was to Fitzroy Crossing and a giant steak, and to the sandscrape greens of Kununurra where prehistoric reptiles lurk in the hazards.

And so to Katherine and a helicopter ride through its incredible Gorge. And then another ride out into the bush and a nights’ stay on a giant cattle farm. And then back to Katherine via a swim in billabongs accessible only by air.

It’s incredible land. Prehistoric, bubbling, old.

Everyone should see it once.

Then up to Darwin and a three-week stay because rains washed away the Barkley Highway, the one heading west. There I played Darwin’s golf course with the Pro and his mates, and met a bloke called Roger who runs Darwin Golf Links and could be the inspiration

for Ted Egan’s song “They’ve Got Some Bloody Good Drinkers in the Northern Territory.”

Then I flew to Melville Island to meet a wizened old Tiwi called Cyril whose son was the late great Maurice Rioli of Richmond fame, and whose grandson Cyril plays for the Hawks.

Cyril Snr was called “the Black Bradman” of Darwin cricket in the 1960s and would make a living killing hundreds of crocodiles in times when a man could be paid 40 shillings per inch for the skins. One night he pulled so many into his boat he had to sleep on top of them.

On Cyril’s first trip to Melbourne – to see his son play the 1982 grand final – he was taken to Melbourne’s Sandbelt for his first look at golf. So hooked by the game was Cyril he returned to Melville, took out a whippersnipper and carved himself the golf course that stands today. Great bloke.

Back on the mainland and it was south to Humpty Doo for a fun round like local XXXX aficionados. Then it was to the Humpty Doo Tavern for a Sunday session where giant horny beast heads hang from walls and a sign reads “Men Must Wear Pants.”

Darwin to CairnS After three weeks of golf and drinking it was another 1000km south to the deep-red clay

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Ingham to Sydney

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greens of Tennant Creek GC, where I played with Stan “Motza” Thompson and a mate of his Bill, a wiry-thin plumber in that sun-dried outback way that makes him look like he’s been twisted like a chamois to extract the juice.

Motza is a former miner and SP bookie who breeds canaries and is the Northern Territory sand-scrapes champion. The course has a few parched trees, but its layout would be the same as your metropolitan track (but you do have to check the hole for scorpions).

And so it was westward to Mount Isa where I played Mount Isa and ate T-bone steaks bigger than a man’s head. And then it rained for two weeks. And I went west through Cloncurry and was holed up in two-pub towns like Julia Creek and McKinley, towns that haven’t even heard of themselves. On the way to Charters Towers I came to a river that looked like The Nile and found a hippy in a Kombi, smoking rolled cigarettes. He’d been there three days.

I doubled back through mango country and east inland to Bowen. The rains teemed down.

I went up through Townsville and Ayr with the promise of Cairns’ Sea Temple and Port Douglas and paradise. It was not to be. I holed up in Ingham and spent two days waiting, talking with truckies. There was no route north. Everywhere was underwater.

When I finally did the bolt it was south back to Townsville and more rain, then south to Proserpine and its former David Grahamdesigned gem Laguna Quays that’s now a ghost estate with a skeleton staff, its one-time championship golf course overtaken by nature.

And so it was south again, with flat tyres in the potholes of the gnarly Bruce Highway. Then the sun came out! I ate steak in a Rockhampton pub with a giant bull-ring out the back, and played Rockhampton GC with a bloke whose band, yhe Solid Citizens, was on Countdown in the 1980s the same night as Meatloaf.

The Subaru sluiced through Gympie, Gin Gin and Maryborough, all nearly underwater, and finally took me into the Sunshine Coast where it continued to rain, but not enough to keep me off Coolum and its championship course that Clive Palmer’s put dinosaurs on.

It was then to the Gold Coast and its many splendid golf-lands, notably The Pines at Sanctuary Cove, Lakelands and Hope Island.

Brilliant golf. As was glorious, beautiful Brookwater near Springfield, and Coffs Harbour’s super-course, the glorious, beautiful Bonville. Google pictures. Book flights. Play.

Then it was south to Forster and Tallwoods, south again to the Central Coast and the gnarly, brilliant Magenta Shores and Craig Parry’s Kooindah Waters. And southwards back to Bondi Beach where I stayed at Ravesi’s and played more golf, including a round down at Bonnie Doon.

And that, friends, was that. ◆

Do the trip Wheels

Budget

You need a quality vehicle.

It might sound romantic to get around in a Kombi but the roads are long and lonely and creature comforts are good.

GPS is not negotiable.

You’ll have to pay for: three meals a day, water, accommodation, petrol (that’s more expensive the further you are from metropolitan capitals); green fees, beer, batteries and sundry stuff. Looking at $700 to $1,000 a week, thereabouts.

Plan it Ring or email every golf club you’d like to play. Grab a sheet of butcher’s paper and draw a rough map of Australia. And as clubs get back to you with tee times, write them on your map.

Excel would also help.

Take your time I did the lap in four months without rushing. It felt about right.

Wonder Wall When it comes to visiting the Great Wall of China, a little context goes a long way, writes Tom O’Malley Photography Ewen Bell

Along the watchtower the great wall is over 20,000km in length

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“B

aodou, baodou,” calls the train attendant, moving through the carriage with a single bag of microwave popcorn on a silver tray.

There are no takers. Outside the window, the Beijing outskirts roll by, a hinterland of highways, light industry and the mournful skeletons of half-built apartments framed against a grey winter sky.

I’m riding the ‘S’ train that connects downtown Beijing to the county of Yanqing in the far reaches of the municipality. This suburban route is notable for two things: it follows the old Imperial Peking to Zhangjiakou railway, the first railway designed and built by the Chinese towards

the end of the Qing Dynasty. And it has a rather special stop along its route: Badaling.

About 60km northwest of Beijing, Badaling is a pass through a high gorge in the Jundu Mountains. Historically a strategic portal between the fertile lands of the capital and the more arid plains beyond, it has been called the ‘Key to Northern China’ and is the site for what has become the defining section of the Great Wall.

As the train ascends into the foothills, we get a glimpse of battlements perched precariously on rocky cliffs. There have been numerous eras of Great Wall building throughout China’s history, but most of the wall that endures around Beijing, like the Badaling section, dates to the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644).

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The Ming built or rebuilt atop older stretches of wall to form an undulating, overlapping defensive barrier stretching from ocean to desert, shielding the northern reaches of their vast territory from the ‘barbarians’ – the Mongols, Manchu and other pastoral people. The absolute length, including every branch and tributary, of the Ming Great Wall has been put at about 8,000km; a five-year archaeological survey of every single bit of wall within today’s expanded PRC borders, existing or long vanished, from around 20 dynasties (aside from the most recent Qing), put the total at over 20,000km.

The reality is that vast tracts of wall have been lost to the ravages of time and civilisation, and what remains exist are in a state of precarious disrepair. For logistical reasons, the Great Wall was fashioned, chameleon-like, from whatever materials were at hand. Along China’s arid northern plains, this equated mostly to tamped earth. The strategically critical upland sections around Beijing, amounting to around 600km of the Ming Great Wall, were far sturdier, built from local granite and bricks, lined with watchtowers and often following the high ridgelines of mountains.

But despite the Ming’s mastery of wall defence, the Manchu found a way through

(walls are only as reliable as their gatekeepers, after all), conquered Beijing and established the Great Qing, China’s last imperial dynasty.

Although the Qing had some use for the Ming walls and added a few of their own, the greatest era of wall building in the history of mankind had come to an end, and the battlements were eventually abandoned, their unmanned bricks and stone remaining at the mercy of scavengers.

Wall-mart Badaling too had fallen into ruin, but enough of the wall remained intact that, with the formation of the People’s Republic of China in the 1950s, it was decided the Great Wall at Badaling should be the site of the first major wall restoration since the Ming Dynasty. In the mid-’50s, and again in 1987, two restoration projects resurrected around 8km of wall and more than 20 watchtowers. Hundreds of foreign heads of state including Nixon, Thatcher, Gorbachev and Obama have smiled for the cameras on its battlements, and hundreds of millions of tourists, both Chinese and foreign, have huffed and puffed up its steep steps.

The train attendant makes another pass as we near our destination, but this time she’s selling tickets to something ominously called the Circle Vision Great Wall Theatre. Yes,

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“ vast tracts of wall have been lost to the ravages of time �

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The memory remains some battlements have been restored, others remain in a state of disrepair

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“ tourists can only officially access a tiny fraction of the great wall ”

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Badaling offers far more than mere wall.

The size of a modest North American ski resort, it has a Starbucks, a KFC, and countless souvenir shops and snack vendors. There are banks, the Badaling Hotel, a museum, the aforementioned theatre attraction, acres of car parks, a cable car, camels to ride and Asian black bears to feed.

Factor in the crowds (Badaling is famously swamped in holiday season) and the modern appearance of its restoration, and you approach what was described in a New York Times article from 1985 as “too great an obtrusion of the present into the precincts of the past.” This is why the Western guidebooks tend to suggest visitors skip Badaling, a victim of its own fame, and instead seek another officially sanctioned section of restored Great Wall: Mutianyu.

Rebuilt in the early Ming Dynasty, and restored and opened in the 1980s to ease the pressure on Badaling, Mutianyu is a lofty 4km stretch of wall in a verdant mountain landscape. Though it too boasts cable cars and gift shops, the crowds have never quite reached Badaling levels, the surrounding villages are bucolic, and in low season you might have Mutianyu mostly to yourself.

Not so in Badaling. It’s a cold December afternoon but the crenellated battlements jostle with sightseers. I introduce myself to Xiao

Lan from subtropical Guangdong, visiting the Great Wall for the first time with his shivering wife and young son. Marcus and Hilda, from Norway, are munching on processed sausages and sporting souvenir woolly hats. I chat with Samir, an IT Consultant from Hyderabad, and we are joined by two female students from Nanning in Guangxi Province, posing for photos together.

This concentration of visitors exacts a toll, of course. The Great Wall may be many thousands of kilometres long, but tourists can only officially access a tiny fraction – probably less than 50km – of the whole structure. Barely a brick at Badaling is free of etched graffiti. As well as Badaling and Mutianyu, you can travel further afield from Beijing to restored sections at Jinshanling, Simatai and Huanghuacheng.

You can view the Great Wall as it plunges into the ocean at ‘Old Dragon’s Head’ in Shanhaiguan. And if you’re a completionist, you might travel all the way west to Jiayuguan, a lonely fortified outpost in the deserts of Gansu province, the end of the Ming Great Wall and the final barrier between Chinese civilisation and the ‘outer darkness.’

going wild Increasingly, China’s new breed of outdoors enthusiasts (and intrepid tourists) are eschewing the official sections and seeking

Skip the queue other sections of the wall offer a less crowded experience

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“ its romantic vistas of crumbling stone are a testament to the rise and fall of empires ”

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Ready, sunset, go Dusk is the most popular time for photo opportunities

out the ‘Wild Wall’, a phrase coined by British Great Wall scholar William Lindesay to describe derelict battlements overgrown with vegetation or eroded amidst desert – places like Dunhuang and Datong, tourist-free and a world away from the elbow-to-elbow jollity of Badaling.

This is the Great Wall of the poetic imagination; its romantic vistas of crumbling stone a moving testament to the rise and fall

of empires and the perpetual ebb and flow of power. The flipside is that these sections can be dangerous; hiking boots extol further damage to the fragile structures, and to walk here at all is, strictly speaking, illegal. Still, if you’ve already seen the likes of Badaling and Mutianyu – or if their crowds simply don’t appeal – then this is the Wall for you.

Just don’t expect popcorn. ◆

Walking the Wall five less-visited destinations worth seeking out Jiaoshan

Jiankou

Jinshanling

Two-and-a-half hours from Beijing by highspeed train, this is one of the first mountains climbed by the Great Wall in the east, just a few kilometres from the ocean. Keep going up past the restored section to the mountain’s summit for stunning views. On a clear day you can follow the old line of Wall through the town of Shanhaiguan out to where it meets the ocean.

A scenic mountain valley girdled on three sides by what is arguably the most picturesque, gravitydefying stretch of Great Wall in China.

Clamber up through woodland to Zhengbeilou, a watchtower beloved by amateur photographers.

From here it’s a twohour hike downhill along unrestored wall to Mutianyu.

Probably the best balance of accessibility, spectacular vistas and visitor numbers if coming from Beijing, the Jinshanling section is only partially restored. From here it’s possible to hike east towards the astonishingly steep Simatai section. (Note: Simatai has recently undergone restoration and may remain partly closed until later in 2014.)

Han Dynasty Great Wall at Dunhuang

Earthwork Great Wall at Datong

Over 1,000 years older than the Ming walls, this is one of the most remote and ancient sections of Great Wall, built to provide cover for the Silk Road caravans. Little remains but humps of clay packed with birch twigs and a few lonely beacon towers. It feels like the end of the Earth – flat, gravelly desert in every direction, hazy sun and epic silence.

Just a 30-minute taxi ride from the northern city of Datong, the eroded remains of a broad earthen mound stretch into the far distance across grassy plains.

Entirely unprotected, it’s little more than a landscape quirk today, occasionally cut through to give access to farm vehicles.

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CITY BREAK

St i l l g o l d e n Melbourne boasts the oldest continuously occupied Chinatown in the world, with a history dating back to the Victorian gold rush of the 1850s.

Constantina Pilatos pays a visit Photography Trent van der Jagt

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Artist impression melbourne’s street artists are inspired by the city’s chinese culture

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CITY BREAK

好比黄金 墨尔本唐人街是全澳最大和最古老的 唐人街，其历史可追溯至19世纪和维 多利亚女王时代的淘金热潮。康士坦 汀·皮拉图专程到访了一趟⋯⋯

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Local eats Chinatown (above) is home of the mackerel dumpling (left) and lamb dumpling (right)

过这道装饰华丽 红色的拱门，代 表着墨尔本唐 人街的开头，您会瞬间转 移到中国喧嚷、川流不息 的街道：一个充满着醉鸡、 挂灯笼、街头音乐、饺子、 饺子和更多饺子的世界。 唐人街的行人道两边 似乎拥有无止境的餐馆和 商店，售卖一些您觉得只 能在北京街头才找到的一 切。罕有的药材如野山参、 桂丹和枸杞，它们被装在 玻璃瓶内安置在店内的架 子上，还有柿饼及去皮酸 罗望子，全部从东方国家 进口。 墨尔本唐人街的真实 性在于它的起源。就在这 里，一个半世纪以前华人 社群沿着小柏克街（Little Bourke）聚居安营，继而 延伸到其他的街道，从那 时起一直持续至今。 1851年中国移民开始 抵达澳大利亚海岸，一手 行李箱一手拿工具。当时 澳大利亚的淘金热吸引来 自世界各地每一个角落的 人迁徙到这里来。但中国 相对其他国家较接近，意 味着华人更愿意踏上这条 利润丰厚却艰苦的两个月 海上之旅。墨尔本的澳华 历史博物馆历史研究主任 柯索菲博士（Dr Sophie Couchman ）说：“在一 些金矿百分之三十到八十 的开采者是中国人。” 维多利亚的乡村小镇 本迭戈（Bendigo）和巴

拉腊特（Ballarat）是淘 金的热门城市。当中国男 人们在金矿采矿时，他们 的家人则在曾经被认为墨 尔本郊区的小柏克街定居。 库奇曼博士说：“小柏克 在华人刚定居的时候是一 个非常便宜的地区，当华 人好像在国内那样聚居时， 这区很快成为了中心—— 烹调当地的菜色和讲他们 的语言。” 他们万万没有想到这 样子做为全澳最大的唐人 街奠好了基础。今天，大 约有63,000中国人居住在 墨尔本，至于唐人街，库 奇曼博士说：“它也已经 算是中央商务区的最前 沿。” 多年来中国社群在墨 尔本各处留下了痕迹—— 书店里有中国文学，小巷 间能看到亚洲风格的涂鸦， 您甚至可以在唐人街电影 院来一场现场戏剧和音乐 表演，这也是亚洲以外最 后一个中国电影院。但是， 美食的部分才是受了中国 文化最大的影响。

热腾腾的东西 芝加哥有著名的热狗、 巴黎的羊角面包闻名于世、 而墨尔本有出名的饺子。 饺子在过去的十年里越来 越受欢迎，不起眼的饺子 屋已成为了最难拿到座位 的餐馆，一众中国人和西 方人在餐馆外排队。 虽然有各色各样、大 大小小的饺子，但没有任

“约10万人挤满小柏克 街，在这里狂欢”

30 to 80 per cent of those mining were Chinese,” says Melbourne’s Chinese Museum curator Dr Sophie Couchman.

Victorian country towns Bendigo and Ballarat were hotspots for gold. As the Chinese men worked the fields their families resided in what was once considered the outskirts of Melbourne – Little Bourke Street. “When the Chinese first settled, Little Bourke was a cheap place to live,” says Dr Couchman.

“It quickly became a hub where the Chinese could all gather and live as they did back home – cooking regional cuisines and speaking their language.”

Little did the Chinese know they were forming the foundations for what is now the world’s longest continuously occupied Chinatown. Today, some 63,000 Chinese people reside in Melbourne, and Chinatown is very much at the forefront of the CBD.

Hot stuff Over the years the Chinese community has left its mark on all parts of Melbourne – bookstores stock Chinese literature and Asian-inspired graffiti can be spotted in alleyways, and you can even catch live theatrical and musical performances at the Chinatown Cinema, one of the last Chinese cinemas outside of Asia.

But its biggest influence lies in the city’s well-

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s you walk through the ornate red archways that mark the beginning of Melbourne’s Chinatown, you’re transported to the clattering and chattering streets of China: a world of hanging lanterns, street music, busy teahouses, dumplings, dumplings and more dumplings.

Lining the footpath are a seemingly endless amount of restaurants and stores, selling everything you’d only expect to find on the streets of Beijing. Rare herbs, such as wild ginseng, dan gui and wolfberry sit in glass jars filling store shelves alongside dried persimmon and peeled sour tamarind, all imported from the Orient.

The authenticity of Melbourne’s Chinatown lies in its origins. It is here, along the stretch of Little Bourke Street and spilling onto the laneways running off it, that the Chinese community set up camp one-and-a-half centuries ago – and have remained ever since.

Chinese immigrants started arriving on Australian shores in 1851, with a suitcase in one hand and tools in the other. Australia’s Gold Rush lured international settlers from every corner of the world, yet China’s relative closeness meant its people were more willing to make the lucrative yet gruelling two-month journey by sea. “On some goldfields,

Spice it up Dainty Sichuan’s chicken stir fry is more chilli than chicken

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“多年来中国社 群在墨尔本各处 留下了痕迹”

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坚持传统制法，妈妈 果您想要避免汤汁流到 下 巴 的 尴 尬 ， 这 值 得 一 的秘密藏在外婆的食谱里， 起源于一个在成都省的小 听。Patrick指导说：“首 城镇，那里海鲜比肉更常 先在角落里咬一小口让里 面的蒸气先跑出来。然后 见。但是，母女俩不满足 把汤啜出来喝了。第三步 于祖先的饺子配方，创造 就是吃下猪肉饺子。请务 出自己的新口味。 Ying说：“小瑞秋饺 必蘸着姜醋酱吃，还有别 忘了必须跟辣椒一起吃。” 子（Little Rachel）是我的 辣椒是墨尔本餐馆的 最爱，不仅是因为它以我 特色。随着新开的餐馆连 女儿的名字来命名。”饺 续不断，让街道也泛滥了。 子里充满好东西——虾、 鱿鱼和三文鱼。这个配方 要在一众餐厅中脱颖而出 关键是拥有精密的细节。 是妈妈摇着新生孙儿睡觉 的时候发想到的。Ying继 上海街饺子馆（Shanghai Street Dumpling）是城中 续说：“我想妈妈希望每 最早的饺子特许经营之一， 个人能感受到Rachel给她 带来的快乐，而她唯一知 来尝一下他家的辣椒焦糖 道的途径就是通过饺子。” 干葱有多辣。刀郎新疆美 食（Dolan Uyghur Food Heaven）是一家西式中 您想要配上饮料吗？ 何一款能像小笼包一样令 经理Pactrick满脸笑容地 众人疯狂。这些源自上海、 欢迎您的到访，然后走上 国餐馆，他们的香料加进 正当中国文化不断改 蜿蜒的楼梯寻找空桌子， 大蒜增添了几分风味。 装满热汤的精美手工小面 变墨尔本的美食文化时， 初 来 乍 到 的 饺 子 馆 它已经慢慢地开始渗透到 即便是最安静的日子空位 团球已成为墨尔本主要的 美食。它可能出现在许多 也非常稀有。在您还没有 山东妈妈（ShanDong 饮料文化中。不论有没有 MaMa）坚持运用必胜的 的中国餐馆的菜单上，可 完全坐下前Patrick已经建 酒精的饮料，受到中国启 组合——原始的辣椒片、 发的饮料在维多利亚首府 议道：“咱们先从小笼包 是很少能媲美胡同饺子吧 胡椒和油。隐藏在柏克街 正快速增长。 （Hutong Dumpling Bar） 开始好吗？”他非常清楚 Made in China 的市中段中心（MidCity 您到访的原因。几分钟后， 里地道的小笼包。 名字来自中国的装 melburnians have adopted xiao 位于小柏克街的小巷 仍然蒸汽腾腾的小笼包已 Arcade）狭窄的大厅内， 饰 设 计 的 红 双 喜 酒 吧 （ long bao (above) 这家小店的马鲛鱼饺子引 经被送到桌上了。 道里的胡同饺子吧（胡同 囍，Double happiness） as their own; tea 起 了 一 阵 骚 动 。 在 山 东 正等待它们冷却下来 的中文是小巷的意思）是 坐落在一条连接到小柏克 tasting at oriental teahouse (below) 妈妈背后的是母女二人忙 街的小巷。倘若小门上不 时Patrick快速地讲解该 墨尔本真正的宝藏。一进 碌不停，王女士（又名妈 是画上了巨大的红双喜， 到乡村风格的三层楼房， 如 何 享 用 小 笼 包 — — 如 妈）一生梦想经营餐馆但 就已经融入了周遭城市、 一直尽职尽责地服务于中 砖墙的环境中。中国的影 国政府，担任会计工作直 响力还不仅于此，里面的 到60岁。退休后搬到墨尔 墙壁上是花图案的壁纸和 本跟她的女儿Ying一起。 在20世纪时发行的复古宣 今天，妈妈正在实现 传海报。 梦想，她每天在厨房制造 调酒师曼尼·帕拉斯 大概2,500只饺子，女儿 （Manny Platsis）说：“我 Ying则管理楼面。在不设 们在11年前已经开业，所 预约的情况下是铁定需要 以我们有可能是首批在中 排队，可是为了墨尔本最 国城，甚至是在墨尔本中 新鲜的鱼饺等待也是值得。 受中国风影响的酒吧。老

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Regional treats If you have an unnaturally high tolerance for chilli, try Dainty Sichuan. It offers the most authentic Sichuan cuisine the Victorian capital has to offer, but it comes at a price. Your mouth will be on fire by the end of a hot pot, so expect to consume more water than food – just don’t say we didn’t warn you!

地道小吃 如果你有超高的受辣性，那就要尝一下天府川菜馆（Dainty Sichuan）。它提供维多利亚首府里最正宗的川菜，但是负上的 代价是吃完火锅后您的口内好像着了火一样，所以准备喝水 比吃的多。它们也有比较温和的菜色如猪肉丝配大蒜干， 可是也足以让您辣到流汗满面。倘若您能低得住辣， 这家餐馆真的值得一试，因为每道菜的味道 都很丰富，但可别说我们没提醒您它 们是有多辣。

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“ locals appreciate the C hinese culture and its influence on M elbourne ’ s society ”

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In demand Some restaurants go through more than 2,500 dumplings a day

established culinary landscape. Melbourne is becoming increasingly known for its delectable dumplings. Growing in popularity over the last decade, humble dumpling houses have become the hardest restaurants to score a seat at, with queues of Chinese and Westerners alike pouring through their doors.

While dumplings of all shapes and sizes are loved, none have caused quite the mass hysteria of the xiao long bao dumpling. Originating in Shanghai, these delicately handcrafted dough balls bursting with hot soup filling have become a Melbourne staple. They may be found on the menu pages of most Chinese restaurants, yet very few can match the genuineness of the xiao long bao at Hutong Dumpling Bar. Found in a small laneway off Little Bourke Street (hutong means laneway in Chinese), this is a bona fide Melbourne treasure. Upon

Essentials eat

d ri nk

sleep

HuTong Dumpling Bar

Double Happiness

Ovolo

14-16 Market Lane

21 Liverpool Street

hutong.com.au

double-happiness.org

ShanDong MaMa

Oriental Teahouse

Ibis

Mid City Arcade Shop 7, 200 Bourke Street

378 Little Collins Street

600 Little Bourke Street

orientalteahouse. com.au

accorhotels.com

03 9650 3818

19 Little Bourke Street

ovologroup.com/hotels

entering the rustic three-storey building, one of Hutong’s smiling staff – possibly even manager Patrick Lui, who is on hand six days a week – happily greets you before navigating you up the winding staircases in search of an empty table, a rarity on the quietest of days. “Shall we start with the xiao long bao?” they suggest before you even manage to sit, knowing full well the reason for your visit.

A few minutes later, the dumplings are set on the table with a billowing cloud of steam still evaporating over them.

As they cool down, you receive a quick tutorial on how to eat xiao long bao which, if you want to avoid the embarrassment of having soup run down your chin, is worth listening to: “First, a bite in the corner to let the steam out. Second, you slurp out the soup. Third, you eat the rest of the pork-filled dumpling. Make sure to dip it into the ginger and vinegar sauce, as well as the chilli in between. You must have chilli.”

For Chinese restaurants in Melbourne, chilli is the fingerprint. With new establishments constantly popping up and flooding the streets, it’s the finer details that make one stand out from another. Shanghai Street Dumpling, one of the city’s first dumpling franchises, counters the hotness of its chilli with caramelised shallots. Dolan Uyghur Food Heaven, a western Chinese restaurant, adds a bit of flavour to its spice by stirring through garlic.

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Turn back time

A living part of Melbourne’s Chinatown, the Chinese Museum displays the history of Australians of Chinese decent. The museum’s five floors showcase the heritage and culture of the local community. Floor one and two follow the metaphorical character of Mr Huang and how he settled in Australia.

The upper floors uncover the traditions behind Chinese New Year and artefacts from the Gold Rush era.

时光倒流 墨尔本现代唐人街的一分子——澳华历史博物馆（Chinese Museum）记载、保存并展示拥有华人血统的澳大利亚人的 历史。五层的博物馆展示当地社群的传统和文化。第一 和第二层展示黄先生两个月的游船之旅，跟许多人 一样从中国出发和怎样在澳大利亚定居下来。 楼上揭开中国农历新年背后的传统和 淘金时代的文物。

Bite size Yum cha has become the new brunch for city dwellers

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“当地人欣赏中国文 化以及其对墨尔本 社会的影响”

板Tom虽然是澳大利亚 人，但他尤其喜欢中国一 切，所以这一切便开始了。 经几番思索和喝进许多杯 米酒后，他决定开一家酒 吧，而且他真的开了。” 酒单上的每一款鸡尾酒都 是受到中国菜肴的味道 所启发。他们刚开始创造 的饮料之一——大跃进 （Great Leap Forward）， 混合了荔枝伏特加酒、酸 橙和生姜，是东方版本的 莫吉托。 走过几条街来到柏 克街（Bourke Street）， 刚才在红双喜有趣的气 氛 被恬静的东方茶馆 And to drink? （Oriental Teahouse）取 While the Chinese culture is changing 代。在上海，每顿饭用茶 Melbourne’s food scene, slowly it has begun 很常见，而生长在上海的 to infiltrate the drink scene as well. Alcoholic 茶叶专家周先生David一 or otherwise, Chinese-inspired beverages are 直对从酿造茶叶中提取出 fast growing in the Victorian capital. 来不同的味道有与生俱来 Named after a Chinese ornamental design, 的热情。对于他的痴迷他 Double Happiness (喜喜) is nestled in an 说：“我也控制不了，它 alleyway connecting to Little Bourke Street. 就在血液里。” The small joint would effortlessly blend into David在29岁时移居 its urban, brick wall surroundings if it weren’t 澳大利亚的咖啡首都墨尔 for the two giant red aforementioned characters 本，他并没有生产“液体 painted on its doors. And the Chinese influence 燃料”来使城里的人保持 doesn’t stop there. Inside, the walls are covered 热闹，相反地他想帮助他 in flower-patterned wallpaper and retro 们摆脱烦扰，把手机放下， propaganda posters distributed throughout 放松身心。 China during the 1900s. 城中有三家东方茶馆， “We opened 11 years ago, so we are probably 每一家都以装满中国混合 one of the first Chinese-inspired bars in 茶的橱柜为装饰，散发出 Chinatown or even Melbourne,” says bartender 使人着迷的香味，让人在 Manny Platsis. “The concept all started because 喝茶前身心神经已得以放 the owner Tom loved everything Chinese,

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A newcomer to the dumpling scene, ShanDong MaMa sticks to the classic chilli flake, peppercorn and oil trifecta. Hidden in the narrow halls of Bourke Street’s Mid City Arcade, this hole-in-the-wall dumpling house has been creating a buzz with its mackerel dumpling.

The mother and daughter duo behind ShanDong MaMa have their hands full. Despite wanting to run a restaurant her whole life, Meiyan Wanga (aka MaMa) dutifully served the Chinese government as an accountant until the ripe age of 60, when she retired and moved to Melbourne to join her daughter, Ying. Today, MaMa is fulfilling her dream as she mans the kitchen, hand-making around 2,500 dumplings a day while Ying works the floor. With a no-reservation policy, waiting in line is a given, but Melbourne’s freshest fish dumplings are worth it.

MaMa’s secret lies in her grandmother’s traditional recipe, which originated in a small town in the Chengdu province, a place where seafood is more common than meat. But these two aren’t resting on the dumpling formulas of their forebears; they are creating new flavours of their own. “The little Rachel dumpling is my favourite, and not just because it’s named after my daughter,” says Ying.

Filled with all things good – prawn, calamari and salmon – the recipe came to MaMa while she was rocking her newborn grandchild to sleep. “I think MaMa just wanted everyone else to feel the joy little Rachel brought to her and the only way she knew how to do that was through her dumplings.”

松。午餐时间这里充满商 业人士享受休息，显然当 地人欣赏中国文化以及其 对墨尔本社会的影响。

把小镇涂红 美食和饮料已经完全 混合到墨尔本的文化当中， 中国最盛大的节庆——中 国农历新年亦然。中国新 年是在中国冬至的第二个 新月，通常落在一月份。 这个时候的小柏克街会面 目全非，中国城内唐人餐 馆的美味佳肴会被带到街 道两旁的美食摊档里。摊 Crowd favourites 档前一致以农历新年的主 Hutong dumpling 题装饰，用红灯笼挂在每 bar’s wontons 一个能挂的地方。歌剧般 (TOP) are a popular choice, as is the 的声音充斥着街道，游客 oriental inspired 被只有中国才能做到的方 mojito (centre) at 式娱乐起来——舞狮、卡 double happiness 拉OK、还有象棋比赛！ 这个庆典不只是华人 参与，这是一个所有墨尔 本人来到小柏克街的晚上， 约10万人挤满街道，在这 里狂欢。人们都试图触碰 一下世界上最大、92米长 的千禧龙来增添运气。它 一边跳舞一边穿过摊位和 餐馆，为众人带来好运。 当地人在看龙的同时 也享受着他们的叉烧包 或小笼包，他们肯定认为 随着淘金热而来的好运 并不只是黄金还有随行的 人。◆

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a liquid fuel that would keep city slickers buzzing, David wanted to help them escape the chaos, put their phones down and unwind. It was on this basis that the Oriental Teahouse was founded. Nowadays you can find three locations throughout the city, each decorated with cabinets full of Chinese blends that produce a hypnotising scent, calming the nerves before even having a sip. Filled with business types enjoying some downtime during lunch hours, it’s clear the locals appreciate the Chinese culture and its influence on Melbourne’s society.

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Paint the town red

Gateway to Chinatown The archways that mark the start and finish of chinatown were a gift from the victorian government

even though he is Australian. After mulling it over one too many shots of rice wine he decided he would open a bar, and he did.”

Each cocktail on the menu is inspired by flavours used in Chinese cuisine. One of the first drinks created, the Great Leap Forward, is a mix of lychee vodka, lime and ginger – an Eastern take on the mojito.

A couple of blocks down on Bourke Street, the fun at Double Happiness is replaced with serenity at Oriental Teahouse. Growing up in Shanghai, where it is the norm to consume tea with every meal, tea expert David Zhou has always had an innate passion for the varying flavours that could be extracted from brewed leaves. “I can’t help it, it’s in the blood,” he says of his obsession.

Moving to Australia at the age of 29, David decided to take on Goliath – Australia’s coffee capital, Melbourne. Rather than producing

As the food and drink scene has seamlessly blended into Melbourne’s culture, so has China’s most celebrated event: Chinese New Year. Come the second new moon of the Chinese winter solstice, which usually falls in January, Little Bourke Street is unrecognisable. The culinary delights of Chinatown’s restaurants are brought to the street as food stalls fill the laneways and shopfronts join together for New Year celebrations, red lanterns hanging from every possible place. The sounds of opera fill the street while visitors experience the kind of entertainment for which the Chinese are renowned – think lion dances, karaoke and, on a more sedate note, chess contests!

It’s not just the Chinese who get involved.

This is a night when all Melburnians come to Little Bourke Street, swelling the number of jam-packed revellers to some 100,000. All of them will be trying to get a lucky touch of the 92-metre Millennium Dragon – the largest in the world – as it dances and weaves its way through the stalls and restaurants, bringing with it good fortune.

As the locals watch the dragon, enjoying their cha siu bao or xiao long bao, they must surely reflect that the gold rush of the 1850s brought more than just good fortune to its early prospectors – it also brought to Melbourne a culture that still thrives today. ◆

发现由自属矿区直送的最高品质澳洲宝石. 让自己沉浸于高端澳宝的奢华体验之中. 放松身心享受非同一般的客户服务. 澳大利亚家族产业 始于1989年 店址：55A 乔治街，岩石区，悉尼，澳大利亚 营业时间：每日9am-6.30pm （亦接受预约)

Discover the finest Australian opals directly from our own mines. Immerse yourself in opal luxury.

Relax in the comfort of exceptional customer service.

Australian family owned since 1989 55A George Street, The Rocks, NSW 2000 9-6.30 every day or by appointment

网址： www.opalminded.com

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山之高

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mo u nt a i n s high

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0年代时，人们对未 来将会是什么样子作 出了很多的预测。有 些人说根据过去50多年中 如何演变，他们将会赚大 钱；也有人说有超级聪明 的猿猴成为我们的司机， 驾车载我们，可是这一切 也没有如期实现。 倘若您仔细翻阅这些 未来学家的文件，必定会 发现当中有一些蓝图跟萨 菲尔菲辛那有几分相似， 萨菲尔菲辛那是一家位于 塔斯马尼亚菲辛那国家公 园入口处的豪华住宿。无

论是外观还是内部，这个 地方就像是用《雷鸟神机 队》（英国60年代的一 套电视剧）般预知未来的 能力来预知21世纪的超 级富豪过着怎样的生活。 从上面看它就像一条巨大 弯曲的黄貂鱼——何等的 时尚和性感，正在走向金 黄色、弧形、美丽的穆尔 斯海滩（Muirs Beach） ，在沙滩的边缘就是豪华 住宿的地方。吸引众人目 光的必定是哈泽德（The Hazards），群山汇聚， 从这座玻璃幕墙的房子中

By seas teeming with abalone, oysters and crayfish, in green and pleasant Tasmania, there’s a jewel of a luxury lodge called Saffire Freycinet, discovers Alex Mead

I

n the 1960s, people spent a lot of time making predictions about what the future would look like. Seeing what’s evolved in the 50 years or so since, they’d be bang on the money with some, while others – such as the super-intelligent ape chauffeurs they said would be driving us around – don’t look like they’re going to come to fruition.

If you sift through the files of those futurists, you’d surely find some blueprints that don’t look too dissimilar to Saffire Freycinet, a luxury lodge on the doorstep of Tasmania’s Freycinet National Park.

Both outside and inside, this place is like a Thunderbirds-esque future vision of how the super-posh would live in the 21st century.

From above, it’s like a giant, curvy stingray – all sleek and sexy – heading towards the

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被充满着鲍鱼、生蚝和龙虾的海 洋包围着，坐落于塔斯马尼亚绿 色宜人的土地上，亚历克斯·米 德发现了一个豪华的小屋名为萨 菲尔菲辛那（Saffire Freycinet）

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beautiful golden arc of sand that is Muirs Beach, on whose fringes the lodge resides.

Sights are firmly set on the Hazards, a range of mountains that pretty much every room in this glass-fronted house – from the restaurant to the lounge, gym and even your own villa – is trained upon. And as you can see for yourself, why wouldn’t it be? It’s the kind of view that takes you by surprise no matter how many times you see it, even when you just look up from a book you’ve been reading.

It’s not only the leather armchairs or fine list of single malts, Armagnacs and Cognacs (all to be taken in front of a fire while star-gazing at night) that gives it a Don Draper-like feel.

If anyone wants to impress a client (or relative, friend, etc.), then this would be the place to go. They’ve thought of everything here – for example, when you take a stroll to the beach and find a little stream barring your path, you also find a box of gumboots to save your shoes.

It has the spa, it has the service and it has the first-class food (so much food, but you can’t and shouldn’t say no, it’d be rude, it’s all too good). It’s got the views, too, and oodles of ‘nice little touches’; in fact, it’s ticked every five-star box. And then some.

But what completes this perfect package, are the activities. You can catch flathead from the beach, take bike rides in the national park, take a Champagne boat cruise around the peninsula, hike mountains, visit the famed Wineglass Bay and take a birdwatching kayak tour of Moulting Lagoon. Or you can do something that literally gives you a taste of what Saffire is all about...

To shell and back Our guide from Saffire, Jerri, takes us first to the Freycinet Marine Farm shop. The handscribbled menu offers up abalone pan-fried with lemon butter and a bread roll for $25 or pickled octopus for $7. Maybe you fancy some scallops for $11 per 250 grams. Or – and this is what gets most visitors going – a dozen oysters Kilpatrick for $20. Oysters, grilled bacon and Worcestershire sauce – it’s like a holy trinity of ingredients in one mouthful.

“ what completes this perfect package are the activities ”

“各种活动使这里 变成完美”

的每一间房间，包括餐厅 到休息室、健身房和您的 别墅都可以欣赏到这个群 山之景。无论您观赏多少 次还仍然惊喜不断，甚至 当您在看书时偶尔抬一下 头，还是会惊叹连连。 不仅是皮革扶手椅或 是单一麦芽威士忌、还有 法国的干邑白兰地和雅马 邑白兰地（这些都在晚 上观星时被拿到火堆前） 使这个地方有唐·德雷珀 （Don Draper）／《广 告狂人》（美国电视剧） 的感觉。如果有人想留下 深刻的印象给客户（或亲 戚、朋友等），这正是您 需要的地方。他们已经预 先为您想好一切，甚至您 未曾想过的东西也为您想 好。譬如当您漫步到海边 的路途上有一条小河流使 您止住了脚步，您会发现 旁边已为您预备好长筒胶 靴，以便走过小溪。 这里有水疗中心，有 卓越的服务，有一流的美 食（太多太棒的食物，使 您无法抗拒，它们都实在 是太美味了），有风景， 也有许多“细微且美好的 东西”⋯⋯其实这里已经 把五星级住宿的每个项目 都打勾了。还提供比这一 切更多的事物。 各种活动使这里变成 完美。您可以到海边捕捉 扁头鱼、在国家公园内骑 自行车、乘坐香槟游船 环绕半岛、爬山、参观著 名的酒杯湾（Wineglass Bay）、在摩尔廷泻湖 （Moulting Lagoon）乘 坐皮艇观鸟，又或是做一 些能真正让您感受到萨菲 尔是什么样的事情。

水中生蚝 导游Jerri首先带领我 们到菲辛那海洋农场 店（Freycinet Marine Farm）。菜单上是一手 潦草的字，提供价值澳币 25元的“柠檬牛油煎鲍 鱼和面包卷”或是澳币7 元的“腌章鱼”。或许您 会想要来一点扇贝？250 克价值澳币11元。又或者 是最受顾客欢迎的生蚝， 一打的基尔帕特里克生蚝 为澳币20元。生蚝、烤培 根、辣酱油——这三样材 料在口中就像一体般不能 分开。 在比较安静的季节， 许多位于塔斯马尼亚的生 产型企业会有“诚实箱” ，让人联想到澳大利亚大 部分的地区里已过时的东 西。可是这个坐落于国家 南部海岸美丽的岛屿却跟 澳大利亚大部分的地区不 一样。 假设您已经升天去到 美食天堂品尝了基尔帕特 里克（Kilpatrick）的生 蚝，您还是会希望复活， 品尝将要去到的农场里的 一切。 菲辛那海洋农场店的 旁边有一条车道，我们从 那里驶进，导游跟我们指 出所有的坑洞都充满着生 蚝壳。途经塔斯马尼亚恶 魔（袋獾）隔离保护区， 这个品种的动物因为面部 的癌症而受到威胁（我 建议您可以快速地谷歌一 下，不过不要在进食的时 候⋯⋯）。来到路的尽头 我们跨过木桥经过一块充 满猪脸花的湿地，猪脸花 这个名字虽然有点苛刻， 但它们是亮粉红色的花，

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Sun and sand Wineglass Bay within the Freycinet National Park is considered one of the top 10 beaches in the world.

The reasons why are clear: fine white sand meets clear turquoise waters surrounded by soaring pink granite cliffs. Not only that, but the climate offers a gorgeous 300 days of sunshine, on average, each year.

The lap of luxury indulge your senses in the lodge’s elegant surrounds

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In the quieter seasons, like many producebased businesses in this part of Tassie, they’ll run an honesty box, something reminiscent of times gone by in most parts of Australia.

But then this beautiful island state off the country’s southern coast isn’t like most parts of Australia.

Even if you have died and gone to food heaven after trying the oysters Kilpatrick, you’ll want to be revived for what lies ahead at the farm.

Next to the shop there’s a lane, and we’re driven down it with our guide pointing out that any potholes are filled with oyster shells.

There’s also a Tasmanian Devil quarantine sanctuary en route; the species is under threat due to a facial tumour disease (I’d suggest a quick Google, but not while you’re eating). At the end of the road, we take a wooden bridge across the wetlands that are dotted with the somewhat harshly named Pigface flowers – they’re hot pink in colour and very pretty.

We arrive at an old building. It’s filled with bits and pieces of machinery, and there are empty oyster cages piled up everywhere. It’s here we’re handed our green rubber waders.

Rarely, if ever, do the finer things in life involve green rubber waders, but we’ll trust Saffire on this one – they haven’t been wrong so far. To a man, the small group of four look anything but glamorous – and at least 20kg heavier. Flattering they are not.

Wadered up and ready to go, we’re led out to what for many food lovers is the pièce de résistance of a stay at Saffire: the marine farm. Specifically, we’re here to eat oysters at the source. Jerri is, of course, well-informed on the topic at hand. As we’ve waded out to just above waist height and stand among

the oyster nursery, we’re given the complete rundown of the life of an oyster. Starting out as ‘spat’ – larvae that swim around, attach to a rock and create a shell – it then reaches the nursery stage and then the muscle-building phase, when it’s taken to cages out at sea to effectively bulk up. There’s little we don’t know about oysters by the time Jerri is done.

We even learn that some marine farmers keep them as pets, allowing them to grow up to a metre in size and live out their lives to the full; however, as they can live for 70 years, it could be something of a hand-me-down pet.

FEEDING TIME Back to the edible ones. We’re particularly interested in those that come back to these cages close to shore in the estuary, fresh from the bulking-up phase, because it’s these fellas that Jerri is gathering by the handful from the sea.

Still waist-deep in water, we head to a long-legged table covered in a pristine white tablecloth. From her backpack Jerri produces champagne flutes and a bottle of a thoroughly delicious local sparkling wine. With the estuary as our dining table, the cormorants, terns and

View from the top

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the view of wineglass bay is simply breathtaking

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颜色鲜豔非常漂亮。 我们抵达一座古老的 建筑，它充满了零星的机 械件，还有到处堆放着空 的生蚝笼。就在这里我们 被分派绿色的橡胶防水连 身裤。 虽然凡是涉及这件橡 胶防水裤有好事发生的机 会很微，但我们还是选择 相信萨菲尔会带给我们不 一样的事，皆因它到现在 为止都没有令我们失望。 四个人一小群，寻找富有 魅力而且不少于20公斤重 的东西。真的有才怪了。 穿好防水裤准备出 发，我们被领到海洋农 场，一个对许多饕客而言 到访萨菲尔的主要目的 地。具体来说，我们来这 里吃生蚝，而且是直接在 其生长的地方。 Jerri是个见多识广的 导游，当我们涉水到略高 于腰部站在生蚝养育场中

时，她给我们讲解生蚝的 整个生命历程。从在水里 游来游去的幼虫到固定在 岩石上，继而制造外壳保 护蚝卵，接下来相继就是 育苗阶段和肌肉建设阶段 （生蚝被带到海上的笼 子中快速地变大），当 Jerri完成讲解时还有些 许我们还不知道的事。 我们甚至发现一些渔民 把它们当作宠物，让他 们成长到一米大小，活 出它们完整的生命。它 们能活70年，可以成为 传递给下一代的宠物。 回到可食用的生蚝， 它们从肌肉建设阶段回到 海口淡水处的笼子，Jerri 把它们从海中拔下来，也 就是我们最感兴趣的部 分。 还是站在齐腰深的水 中，我们走向一张被洁 白的台布覆盖着的长脚 桌。Jerri从她的背包里拿

“这将会是您尝过味 道最好的生蚝”

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“ these will be the best oysters you ’ ve ever tasted ”

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出长形香槟杯和当地出产 美味的葡萄汽酒。以海口 成为我们的餐桌，鸬鹚、 燕鸥和鹈鹕羡慕的看着我 们，我们剥去生蚝的外壳 直接享用。倘若您不在海 里也没关系，反正这些新 鲜多汁、带着天然海咸的 生蚝会被送到岸上去。喜 欢的话可以加一点橙子汁 或挤些酸橙汁。Jerri都为

The rates 价目表 萨菲尔菲辛那提供套餐和非套餐价格。两类均包括澳币100元水疗所礼券、早餐、午餐、自助酒吧直 到晚餐时间和在住所里微型酒吧的消费，套餐还包括晚餐。一系列的活动消费也包括在价格里。如 果一个晚上标准套房的非套餐价格是澳币1800元，包括晚餐的价格是澳币2,100元。欲了解更多信 息请浏览 saffire-freycinet.com.au Saffire Freycinet offers package and non-package rates. Both include $100 credit for the spa, breakfast, lunch, self-serve lounge bar until dinner and mini bar items consumed on the premises, with the package including dinner. A range of activities are also included in the price. As an example, a non-package rate for one night in a signature suite would cost $1,800. Including dinner, that rate would be $2,100. For more information, visit saffire-freycinet.com.au

我们预备好了，可是它们 真的不需要酱汁的参与。 不管是受到农场的主 人、前海洋生物学家贾尔 斯（Giles）的关怀和照顾 或是整个环境的设置，还 是两样参杂也好，这将是 您尝过味道的生蚝，吃的 时候还是穿着绿色防水连 身裤。就已经跟您说了萨 菲尔想得非常周到⋯⋯ ◆

pelicans our envious audience, we shuck the oysters and eat them right there. If you weren’t already in the sea, the flavour would transport you there anyway – so fresh, so salty, so juicy and delicious. You can add a dash of Ponzu sauce if you like, or a squeeze of lime; Jerry is prepared, but these bites of the big blue need no tweaks in the flavour department.

Whether it’s the care and attention paid by the farm’s owner Giles, a former marine biologist, or the setting, or a mixture of both, these will be the best oysters you’ve ever tasted – and you’ll be wearing green waders when you do it, too. Told you Saffire has thought of everything. ◆

Two locations at the Queen Victoria Building, 445 George St, Sydney: Shop 22, The Grand Walk T (02) 9267 6628 F (02) 9267 4757 Shop 23, Level 2 T (02) 9261 4446 F (02) 9264 4343

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hublot

midas touch 限量50只的“Big Bang Hublot Zegg & Cerlati Yellow Gold”18K黄金腕表， 不单是时尚的象征，更是一件拥有极高收藏 价值的收藏品。 With only fifty 18-karat Big Bang Hublot Zegg & Cerlati Yellow Gold watches made, these timepieces double as a fashion statement and collector’s item. $41,712, hublot.com

news

Most wanted

indulge yourself or your loved ones with these must-have items

Stylish living 以知名英国籍设计师汤姆·迪克森 （Tom Dixon）广泛的家品系列来为居所增 添一点时尚元素。 Introduce designer details to your living space with Tom Dixon’s scaled-up collection of house goods. mrporter.com

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Royal jewels 由法国珠宝品牌梵克雅宝（Van Cleef & Arpels）于1946年为 法伊莎公主——埃及的最后一个国王法鲁克的妹妹而定制的钻石 手链拥有58克拉耀眼的宝石，世上只此一条，独一无二。 Comissioned in 1946 for Princess Faiza, sister to the last king of Egypt, King Farouk, this one-of-a-kind Van Cleef & Arpels diamond belt bracelet boasts 58 carats of dazzling stones. $1.5 million modaoperandi.com

Horseplay 上海滩（Shanghai Tang）、江诗丹顿 （Vacheron Constantin）、珑骧（Longchamp） 和大卫杜夫（Davidoff）以这些限量产品来庆祝马年。 Shanghai Tang, Vacheron Constantin, Longchamp and Davidoff are celebrating the Year of the Horse with these limited edition items. Longchamp Year of Horse bag $POA, longchamp.com, Shanghai Tang silver horse cufflinks $325, and silver horse bookends $411, shanghaitang.com, Davidoff 2014 "The Year of the Horse" Cigars $265.95 davidoff.com, Vacheron Constantin watch $POA, vacheron-constantin.com

On the run

new in town

拉瓦萨（Lavazza）的新产品EspressGo 意式浓缩咖啡机小巧便携，只需将其插入车 内的点烟器插座便能酿造完美的浓缩咖啡。 Morning coffee runs are a thing of the past thanks to Lavazza's Espressgo portable espresso machine. Just plug it into your car's lighter socket for a perfectly brewed caffeine shot. $199, lavazzamodomio.com.au

牌圣罗兰（Saint LaUr ent Paris） 已于北京开业，崭新的 概念店位于新光天地。 Fre nc h lux ury-ho use Sa int La ure nt Pa ris ha s op en ed its do ors in Be ijin g with a new co nc ept sto re in Sh in Ko ng Pla ce . sai ntl au rent.c om

touch of brass

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马克·雅可布（Marc Jacobs）为路易 ·威登（Louis Vuitton）设计的全新全黑系列， 灵感来自歌舞女郎的魅力。 Inspired by showgirl glamour, the new all-black collection by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton includes these super-glam, spiky brass and crystal numbers. Earrings, approx $900, double ring, approx $900 louisvuitton.com

内藏宝物 让您的孩子健康地开 展新的一年，澳绿康倍 （Southernature）儿童倍加 Omega 3深海鱼油不单充满果香味， 还含EPA和DHA的1：5黄金比例配方 , 帮助儿童的脑部、认知及视力发 育， 满足儿童成长发育的需要。 southernature.com.au

news

著名的法国时尚奢侈品

Bags of luxury 新秀丽（Samsonite）独家Black Label行李箱 系列将会加入三个新成员——奢华的蟒蛇皮旅行 箱。2014年春季在各大门店出售。 Samsonite's latest additions to their exclusive Black Label collection are three luxe Python skin roller suitcases. In stores Spring 2014. From $850, samsonite.com

High stakes 阿尔弗雷德登喜路（Alfred Dunhill）的Bourdon扑 克套装为高端一族提供奢华的游戏体验。 Alfred Dunhill's Bourdon Poker Set is for those high-rollers who like to play in style. $1,500, dunhill.com

shopping

Shirt, J Crew $115, jcrew.com

Notebook, Visionaire $4,585, mrporter.com

Sunglasses, Oliver Spencer $306, oliverspencer.com

Shorts, Slowear $283, mrporter.com

Watch, Mougin & Piquard J Crew $689, mrporter. com

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Belt, Anderson's $105, mrporter.com

Beach day Beat the heat in style with these seaside must-haves

Bracelet, Miansai $153, miansai.com Sunglasses, Oliver Spencer $306, oliverspencer.com

Blue shorts, Hartford $153, mrporter.com

Sandals, Gucci $628, gucci.com

Bag, Want Les Essentials De La Vie $409, wantessentials.com

Long sleeve top, A.P.C. $169, apc.com

Conditioner, Malin + Goetz $31, malinandgoetz.com

shopping

Soft focus

Designers reveal their subtle side showcasing pastel-coloured accessories this summer

Ring, Assad Mounser $POA, assadmounser.com

Phone cases, Burberry from $306, burberry.com

Sunglasses, Prada $306 prada.com

124 Bag, Chanel $POA, chanel.com

Hat, Sharouk, $POA, sharouk.com

Sunglasses, Thierry Lasry $506, net-a-porter.com

Hat, John Galliano $POA, gallianostore.com

Bag, Louis Vuitton $4,750, louisvuitton.com

Cuff, Louis Vuitton $630, louisvuitton.com

Clutch, Burberry $POA, burberry.com

Backpack, 3.1 Phillip Lim $1,269, 31philliplim.com

Sandals, Charlotte Olympia $806, charlotteolympia.com

Necklace, Akong $1,445, caratime.com

Bracelet, AurĂŠlie Bidermann $511 aureliebidermann.com

Milan

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Sydney

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Melbourne

www.Florsheim.com.au

Tokyo

Johannesburg

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蔻依（Chloe）2014早春度假系列——预科生清新 利落的衬衫、特大连衣裙和阔腿裤搭配轻便的凉 鞋，衬出随意自在的风格

Classic chic Cue crisp preppy shirts, oversized sheer dresses and wide-leg pants matched with barely-there sandles – Chloe’s Resort 2014 is all about effortless style

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(Left)左： White sleeveless shirt 白色镂空无袖衬衣 $2,802 Bright yellow shorts 明黄色短裤 $832 White calfskin handbag 白色牛皮手袋 $4,800 Black/Aqua metallic sandals 拼色金属凉鞋 $1,320 (Right)右： Sky blue silk dress 浅蓝色镂空 乌干纱连衣裙 $5,200 Golden double-ring necklace 金色双环项链 $960 Golden buckle ankle sandals 金色扣踝凉鞋 $1,770

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(Left)左： White cotton shirt 白色棉质衬衫 $930 Stripe dress条纹曳地长裙 $3,230 (Right)右： White ribbon shirt 白色飘带衬衫 $1,657 Stripe high-waisted wide leg pants 条纹高腰阔腿裤 $1,732

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(Left)左： White stitching shirt白色 镂空拼接T恤 $1,934 Navy pants 藏青色收口长 裤 $1,250 Black/pink tea buckle ankle wedge-heels拼色扣 踝坡跟鞋 $1,330 (Right)右： White cotton top 白色棉质 上衣 $1,312 Navy V-collar top 藏青色V 领上衣 $1,713 Navy wide leg capri pants 藏青色阔腿九分裤 $1,614 Black/pink tea wedgeheels 拼色坡跟鞋 $1,000

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(Left)左： Navy lace flower shirt 藏青色花朵蕾丝 连衣裙 $9,077 Golden buckle ankle sandals 金色扣 环凉鞋 $1,884 (Right)右： Lace top 风车透视蕾 丝上衣 $4,802 White wide leg pants 白色阔腿裤 $1,250 Black/pink tea strappy wedge sandals 拼色系带坡 跟鞋 $1,311

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Sky blue cotton shirt 浅蓝色棉质衬衫 $1,051 Noir blanc contour coat 蓝色条纹廓形风衣 $2,400 Noir blanc pants 蓝色条纹 拼接长裤 $1,166 Pink tea strapped wedge sandals 裸色系带坡跟鞋 $1,311

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White top 白色镂空上衣 $1,390 White shorts 白色镂空短裤 $1,311 Pink tea buckle ankle wedge sandals 裸色扣踝坡跟鞋 $1,311

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This page 本页 Suit 西装, $999; Tie 领带, $149; Shirt 衬衫, $239; Pocket square 口袋方巾, $69, all Hugo Boss.

This page 本页 (Left) Suit 西装 , $209; Shirt 衬衫, $239; Tie 领带, $209; $239; Tie 领带, $209, all Hugo Boss.

fa s h i o n

Pocket Square 口袋方巾, $69 (Below 下图) Shirt 衬衫,

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合您 西装

是时候告别那些乐队短袖衬 衫和蹂躏的牛仔裤，现在是 以西装的形式来穿出休闲

Well suited Say goodbye to those band T-shirts and torn jeans – casual now comes in suit form

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要让一件西装变得休闲有许多的选 择，男士们正在尝试穿出自己的个人 风格。

Opposite page 左页 Suit 西装, $1399; Shirt 衬衫, $239; Tie 领带, $209; Bag 手提包, $1199, all Hugo Boss.

西装不再局限于办公室或晚宴派对装，男士们现在重视 的是西装成为他们生活方式的一部分。四百多年以来，匹 配的外套、裤子和马甲一直都是西装穿着的基础，男士 却发现现代的穿法不再是如此。作为奢侈品牌如雨果博斯 （Hugo Boss），在风格和饰品上正在提供更多的选择，男 士开始使用不常见的颜色和图案。时尚的附加物件如鞋子、 皮带、领带和袋子让男士们的造型散发出不同的味道——从 经典休闲到自信奢华。他们选择时所需的工具？设计、材 料和颜色。蓝色皮带和蓝色运动鞋配搭贴身单排扣西装？ 为何不行？如果场合允许，没有任何事可以阻止您表现属于 自己的风格——有品味地。

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Great 风云人物斯科特

Until the Ashes, 2013 wasn’t a great year for sport Down Under, but there was one exception – Adam Scott.

Ending the year as No.2 in the world, he has put Aussie golf firmly back on the map, explains Ben Everill

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he “C’mon Aussie” reverberated around the pines of the Augusta National with the ferocity of a fighter jet. As his 25foot birdie putt found the cup on the 72nd hole, Adam Scott’s primal instinct took over and he pumped both fists, screaming the quintessential Australian saying, seemingly burying every Aussie heartache and hoodoo attached to the Photographs Getty Images hallowed venue – and also bringing his own resurrection full circle.

But just as Australians were ready to dance in the streets on the way to work, Argentine Angel Cabrera stuffed his approach to match Scott’s score and sent the battle for the green jacket to a sudden-death playoff.

Admit it… you thought the worst. Many went from elation to fear in the blink of an eye. Not again… surely this cannot happen to 吧 澳 洲 ” 数，使这次的绿夹克争夺 an Australian again. And surely the golfing 的口号在 战成为一场突然死亡淘汰 gods aren’t going to take a Major away from 美国奥古 赛。 this man, one of the greatest ambassadors our 斯塔国家高尔夫球俱乐部 承认吧⋯⋯您曾想过 small nation has ever produced. （Augusta National）中 更坏的情况。许多人从兴 Remember, this moment had come around 的松树和凶猛的战斗机之 高采烈变成了眼神间流露 nine months after he bled slowly to death in 间回荡着。斯科特的第72 出恐惧。千万不要重滔覆 the British Open, making a bogey on the final 个洞在25尺处推球以低于 辙⋯⋯这当然不可以再一 four holes to hand the claret jug to Ernie Els. 标准杆一杆入洞，他本能 次发生在澳大利亚身上。 While many hoped Scott could prevail in extra 地紧握双拳大吼澳大利亚 并且高尔夫神肯定是不会 holes, the fear and worry was building. The 的经典语句，好像把每个 将这般重要的东西从这个 sense of defeat was clawing at even the most 澳大利亚人的悲痛和附在 男人身上拿走，他是我们 ardent of believers… except the man who 这个神圣场地的不祥物也 小小的国家中有史以来最 mattered most. The man himself. 一同埋在地底下，同时也 棒的大使之一。 “It was a huge moment because you obviously 为他经历了一番周折的事 还记得这样的时刻在9 want to make that putt, but as an experienced 业带来了重生。 个月前已经出现过，他在 tournament golfer unless it is the last putt 正当澳大利亚人准备 英国公开赛中慢慢地流着 of the tournament it’s never over,” Scott says. 在上班的路上跳舞时，阿 血死去，最后四个洞连续 “We’ve all seen amazing things happen and 根廷选手安吉尔·卡布雷 吞下4个柏忌，将奖杯奉 for someone else to birdie the last isn’t that 拉（Angel Cabrera）却 送给厄尼·艾尔斯（Ernie unlikely. It gave me an incredible chance and 累积了跟斯科特一样的分 Els）。 that’s what I was so pumped about at the time.

2013年中大部分的澳大利亚运动也碌碌 无为，但高尔夫球手亚当·斯科特却总是 散发着一道闪耀的光芒。完成全年的赛事 取得世界第二名，澳大利亚高尔夫球因着 他而重新声威大震⋯⋯

“来

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虽然很多人都希望斯 科特能够在加洞占上风， 可是恐惧感和担心还是油 然而生。即使在最狂热的 信徒心中（相信斯科特胜 利），失败的感觉也正在 张牙舞爪⋯⋯除了最重要 的人——他自己，依旧平 静如初 。 斯科特说：“那是一 个巨大的时刻，因为您当 然希望打出那样的推杆， 但身为有丰富赛事经验的 球员，除非它是比赛的最 后一推否则一切还没有结 束。” “我们都看过令人惊奇 的事情发生，有些人最终 的成绩低于标准杆一杆， 这并不是没有可能的。它 给我一个非常难得的机 会，这就是为何当时我会 那么有干劲的原因。 “我不认为当下就想到 我赢了，我只是在想多好 我现在位居前面，剩下就 看别人了。我已经做了我 一切能作的。 “还有我的球童史蒂 夫·威廉姆斯（Steve Williams），他第一件跟 我讲的事是这还没有结束， 这就是为何我有个有经验 的家伙在身边。” 斯科特立即切换回商 务模式。他对周围的祝贺 不为所动，而且双眼也好 像装了钢铁一样。甚至当 卡布雷拉在首个加赛洞起 扑将球击向旗杆洞口，使 整个国家也屏息时，他也 丝毫没有被动摇。他发誓 会好好利用这次机会，当

卡布雷拉在第二个加赛洞 推杆错过了入洞时，这就 是斯科特宝贵的机会。借 着威廉姆斯有助益的解读， 斯科特接着从12英尺推进 一杆，当球慢慢的往洞里 沉时，震撼的欢呼声也随 之响起。他夺下绿夹克。 胜利属于澳大利亚。斯科 特说：“命运让我成为了 第一个澳大利亚人在奥古 斯塔（Augusta）赢得冠 军，简直令人难以置信， 感觉非常的奇妙。” “自从在1987年我目睹 拉里·迈兹（Larry Mize） 跟格雷格·诺曼（Greg Norman）对决时直接将 球切进球洞，这一举破碎 了当时六岁的我的心。妈 妈也哭了，我得留在家里 没有上学。绿夹克曾经有 一段长时间对每个澳大利 亚的孩子意义极其重大。” 可是这一切不是童话 故事，这是努力、完全的 奉献和有着坚定不移的信 念的结果，并且它是一个 崭新的开始，而不是斯科 特故事的结尾。 2010年美国高尔夫大 师锦标赛中他终于承认倘 若要在四大满贯中取得胜 利，需要作更好的准备。 这位优秀的名将已经在世 界各地赢得多场赛事，并 且过着舒适的生活。再加 上拥有随和的性格使他缺 乏了“成为最好”这个单 纯的渴望。后来布拉德· 马隆（Brad Malone）他 的小舅成为他的教练，因 此定制了一个全新的时间

“我的生命里有个很大 的梦想，只是需要一段 时间才能到达那里”

The champion speaks Scott shares his thoughts at the pga grand slam of golf Champions dinner

“Ever since I saw Larry Mize chip in against Greg Norman in 1987 – I was six, it broke my heart, I got to stay home from school, my mum was crying. The green jacket has meant so much to every Aussie kid for such a long time.”

But this was not the stuff of fairytales; this was the product of hard work, dedication and an unwavering belief. And it was the beginning of a new chapter, not the end of the Adam Scott story.

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“I don’t think I thought right away that I’ve won, I just thought, ‘How good is that? Now I am in front and it’s up to someone else. I’ve done everything I can do.’

“Also my caddie Steve Williams, first thing he said is, this isn’t over, and that’s why I have an experienced guy on the bag.”

Scott switched back to business mode immediately. He brushed off the congratulations from those in his vicinity and the steel surged into his eyes. Even when Cabrera’s chip on the first playoff hole was tracking toward the cup and a nation held its breath, Scott didn’t waver.

He vowed he would take this opportunity, and when Cabrera missed his putt on the second playoff hole, the moment presented itself.

With a helpful read from Williams, Scott sent the ball from 12 feet to golfing greatness and immortality, and convulsed in elation as it began to sink in. The green jacket was his.

It was Australia’s. “It’s amazing that it’s my destiny to be the first Aussie to win at Augusta, just incredible,” says Scott.

a long, hard road The journey to Masters champion kicked into gear in 2010 when he finally admitted he needed to be better prepared for Major championships if he was ever going to win one. This golfing caper had already provided multiple wins around the world and a lifestyle of comfort. Coupled with a nice-guy personality, the pure desire to be the best had been lacking.

There was an extra gear, and the Queenslander needed to find it. So he switched to a new coach in Brad Malone, his brother-in-law, and instituted a new schedule consisting of less tournaments and more quality practice. It didn’t take long to realise they were onto a winner. The 2011 Masters, where he was runner-up, kickstarted a run of great results in the Majors. In 2011 and 2012 he missed just one cut in eight Majors, and was inside the top 25 in the seven others, inside the top 11 in five of them.

When he came to the 2012 British Open, everything finally clicked and a dominant

“ i absolutely played well enough to win and i felt like i won to be honest ” Scott carried a four-shot lead into the final round, a buffer he still had on the 15th tee Sunday. History shows four straight bogeys to finish allowed Els to steal a second Open Championship title and send Scott into the botched finish Hall of Fame with the likes of Jean Van de Velde. Many thought it might be the end for Scott. The scars would surely stay with him and haunt him for all time. But while the golfing world assumed devastation, Scott left with even more belief than before.

“I felt like I absolutely played well enough to win and I felt like I won to be honest, it was like a victory,” he says. “I really felt like I controlled that golf tournament from Thursday right through. It was up to me what happened there and that was a nice feeling to play golf like that

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表，减少比赛和更多优 质的训练。没有多久就 能知道他们的策略成功 了。2011年的名人赛斯科 特取得第二名，使其的四 大满贯有一个好开始。在 2011年和2012年的8个大 赛中他只有一次错过入 围。7个排名前25名，其 中的5个排名在11名以内。 来到2012年的英国公 开赛中终于取得绝对的主 导。斯科特在进入最后一 轮的时候领先4杆，历史 显示他最后连续吞下4个 柏忌，代表4个洞的标准 杆数都超过标准杆数一 杆，因此让胜利溜走，使 艾尔斯第二次取得公开赛 的冠军。这个恶劣的结束 把斯科特列入范德维德 （Jean van-de-Velde） 的行列。许多人认为这次 已经彻底地击败斯科特， 这道疤痕肯定会跟他在一 起，并一直困扰着他。可 是当高尔夫世界已预计他 会垮掉时，斯科特的信念 却比之前更强了。 他说：“我觉得我绝 对打得够好去赢，说实话 我真的觉得我赢了，这就 像一场胜利。我真心的觉 得从周四开赛到最后，整 场高尔夫球锦标赛也在我 的控制之下。由我来决定 赛事中发生的事，在高尔 夫球最大的舞台上这是一 个很棒的感觉。对我而言 也是第一次经历。” “这给了我信念相信自 己是有足够的实力去赢得 一场大满贯赛，就像是在 我的脑海里最后一块的拼 图。” 他在奥古斯塔证明了 他的信念，而且在苏格 兰也几乎再进一次地证 明，那是一个星期天的下 午，他再一次延赛，就是 为了一睹菲尔·米克尔森 （Phil Mickelson）精彩绝 伦的表现夺下胜利。斯科 特再一次在PGA锦标赛 保证连续二年在四大锦标 赛中成为最棒的高尔夫球 手。在美国PGA巡回赛赢 得的一胜使他完成了辉煌

的一年。其中一场的巡回 锦标赛中不合时宜的肠胃 感冒让他要打败瑞典选手 亨里克·斯滕森（Henrik Stenson）比较艰难，使 他失去了争夺联邦杯的黄 金机会。 斯科特现在已成为 澳大利亚有史以来最厉 害的大满贯得主，这也 是格雷格·诺曼（Greg Norman）曾预言过的。 诺曼在他知名的职业 生涯中赢过两场大满贯 赛，他声称斯科特会比 1950－1960年代的高尔 夫球名将、5个英国公开 赛冠军得主彼得·汤姆森 （Peter Thomson）更上一 层楼。 斯科特并没有因此 而害怕，虽然自80年代 以来，只有尼克·佛度 （Nick Faldo)和泰格·伍 兹(Tiger Woods)赢得六 个或以上的大满贯。斯科 特说：“赢得超过五个大 满贯将是职业中的梦想， 最近已没有太多人能做到 了，是一个很好的目标。” “我总是把目标设得比 较高，那是应该的。如果 能以今年作为动力并且在 奥古斯塔所做的一切中取 得信心，继而在两者之间 取得平衡，希望闸门可以 随之而打开。 “希望这仅仅是个开始。 我没有改变系统去只赢一 场比赛。在我的生命里有 个很大的梦想，只是需要 一段时间才能到达那里。 “看看菲尔·米克尔森 （Phil Mickelson），他一 直是何等的有才华，可是 直到34岁才拿下第一个大 满贯冠军，到现在他已经 赢得五个了。 “今年我有机会赢得两 项大满贯赛事，虽然要赢 得一个大满贯已非常困难， 但是我不认为赢得多个是 件不可能的事， “这将取决于我。我有 多想要它、准备要多努力 和可以保持多久？此刻的 我是百分百地在做，这是 我的时刻了。”◆

at the biggest stage. That was the first time that had happened for me.

“It just gave me the belief that I’m good enough to win a Major, it was like the final piece in the puzzle for me to get that through my head.”

He would prove it at Augusta and went very close to claiming further redemption in Scotland when he led late Sunday once more, only to see Phil Mickelson produce a stunning performance to surge to victory.

Scott contended at the PGA Championship again to ensure, in relation to par, he was the best golfer in the big four tournaments for the second year running. He finished a stellar year with a win in the US PGA Tour playoffs, and while Swede Henrik Stenson would have been tough to beat, an untimely bout of stomach flu during the Tour Championship took away a golden opportunity for another win and a FedEx Cup title.

A piece of history While it didn’t pan out, Scott is now eyeing off becoming Australia’s all-time best Major winner, something Greg Norman has predicted he will achieve. Norman, who won two Majors in a Hall of Fame career, claims Scott will eclipse the five British Opens won by Peter Thomson in the 1950s-60s.

And Scott isn’t afraid to set the bar that high, despite the fact only Nick Faldo and Tiger Woods have won six or more Majors since the 1980s. “To win more than five would be a dream career – there aren’t too many guys lately that have been able to do that. It’s a good goal to have,” Scott says. “I should set my goals high like I always have.

If can find the balance of using this year as a motivator and take the confidence out of what I was able to do at Augusta, then hopefully the floodgates can open.

“I would hope this is just the beginning.

I didn’t change my system to just win one.

I have had big dreams my whole life and sometimes it just takes a while to get there.

Look at a guy like Phil Mickelson. He’s always been incredibly talented but didn’t win a Major until he was 34, and now he’s won five.

“I had chances to win two other Majors this year and I don’t think winning multiple Majors is outside the realms of possibility, although it’s very hard to just win one.

It will be up to me. How much do I want it, how hard am I prepared to work and how long can I keep that going? At the moment I am 100 per cent committed to doing that. It’s my time now.” ◆

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“ i would hope this is just the beginning . i didn ’ t change my system to just win one ”

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The highs and lows of Adam Scott

亚当·斯科特的高峰和低谷 2001 Captured the 2001 Alfred Dunhill PGA Championship for his first European Tour win. 在登喜路PGA锦标赛首次夺得欧巡赛冠军。

2003

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Earned his first US PGA Tour title in his 34th career start on the Tour at the age of 23 at the inaugural Deutsche Bank Championship in 2003, including a course record of 62.

23岁时首次赢得美国PGA巡回赛——首届德意 志银行锦标赛，那是他的高尔夫球生涯中第34 场赛事，包括以62杆刷新赛道记录。

2004 Won the 2004 Players Championship at the age of 23, eight months and 12 days, the youngest champion ever, with rounds of 65-72-69-72. 于23岁8年12天取得2004球员锦标赛冠军，历来 最年轻的赢家，各局分数为65－72－69－72。

2008 Fired a final-round, 11-under-par 61, which broke the course record and set a new personal low, to win the 2008 Qatar Masters, his second title in the event (2002). 因着强劲的最后一局，以低于11杆标准 杆——61杆的成绩打破赛道记录，还为个人创 出最好的成绩，继2002年后再次赢得卡塔尔 名人赛冠军。 Hurt his knee surfing, resulting in missing the Australian Open. 因膝盖受伤而错过澳大利亚公开赛。

2009 A poor season in America. One top 10, 10 missed cuts, 108th money list. Worst ever season by a considerable margin. 在美国低谷的一季。一场在前10名，10场错过 入围、在最赚钱球员名单上排名108。以利润 来计这是他最糟的一季。 Won the Australian Open at New South Wales Golf Club by five strokes to finally capture the national Open and break out of a worrying form slump. 在新南威尔士高尔夫球俱乐部以5杆赢得澳大 利亚公开赛，终于取得国家公开大赛的冠军， 打破了令人担忧的低迷状态。

2011 Won 2011 World Golf Championships Bridgestone Invitational, opening with a 62 at the Firestone Country Club. 在火石乡村俱乐部以开局62杆的好成绩取得布 里斯通世界高尔夫球锦标赛冠军。

2012 Made a bogey on the final four holes in 2012 British Open to hand Ernie Els the title. 英国公开赛中最后四洞连续吞下4个柏忌， 因此让胜利归于厄尼·艾尔斯（Ernie Els）

2013 Suffered acute stomach flu midway through the 2013 US PGA Tour Championship when in contention for lucrative FedEx Cup. 美国PGA巡回锦标赛中途患急性肠胃炎， 这是角逐利润丰厚的联邦杯的重要赛事。 Won the Masters in 2013 and became the first Australian golfer to claim the green jacket. 赢得大师赛并成为澳大利亚第一位夺得绿色 夹克的球手。 Reached a career-high World No.2 after winning The Barclays, becoming just the third player in history to have a Major, a World Golf Championship, a Players Championship and a Playoff win on his resume. He also picked up the PGA Championship and Masters in Australia. 职业生涯来到高峰，赢得2013年巴克莱赛冠 军后成为世界排名第二。是历史上第三个球手 同时赢得大满贯赛、世界高尔夫球锦标赛、 球员锦标赛和附加赛的胜利。 Despite entering the final round of the Australian Open with a four-stroke lead over Rory McIlroy, he lost on the final hole by one shot. 尽管在澳大利亚公开赛进入最后一轮时领先罗 里·麦克罗伊（Rory McIlroy）四杆，最后一 洞还是以一杆之差落败。

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shopping

大制作 在德国萨克森地区（Saxony）的心脏地带是一个小小的制 表师城市，在这里您将会发现一些世界上最著名品牌的家。 亚历克斯·米德跟我们来讲述这个故事⋯⋯

Grand designs 148

In a tiny town of watchmakers in the heart of Germany’s Saxony region, you’ll find the home of one of the world’s most famous brands. Alex Mead tells the tale

曾

经是共产主义的 德国东部，萨 克森州里德累 斯顿（Dresden）城市的 南部是一个名为格拉苏 蒂（Glashutte）的小镇。 镇内居民大概从2,500到 7,000人不等，取决于您 问了谁，都有不一样的答 案。不过不管怎样这不是 一个大的地方。虽然是小 镇，却非常聪明地坐落在 厄尔士山脉（Erzgebirge mountains）的山谷口。 采矿业蓬勃的格拉苏 蒂于19世纪的时候因能源 短缺而开始挣扎。其他收 入来源并不足够，其中有 人说编织篮子是一个受欢 迎的选择，费迪南德·阿 道夫·朗格（Ferdinand Adolph Lange）却认为 能解决小镇问题的是钟 表业。跟着有名气的制 表师傅约翰·古特凯斯 （Johann Gutkaes）受了 7年培训成为制表师，15岁 时从学徒开始，后来成为 了他的助手。朗格其后游 历欧洲各国四年学习制表 技艺，包括法国、英国和 瑞士。 旅途中一丝不苟地做 笔记，他从整个非洲大陆 发现，记载而成的工作簿 成为自己公司的根基。他 不只是制造钟表，还培养

制表师。而那些最终没有 新创办了企业。四年后他 为他工作的也成立了自己 们推出第一个系列，引起 的公司。其后产生了不可 一阵轰动。因为一家公司制 思议的连锁反应，钟表业 造四个表肉在当时是非常 发展如火如荼，不久拉苏 不常见，大部分都是把表 蒂小镇成为了著名的制表 肉买回来再加以改装，然 城市。朗格不只使小镇重 后声称它是属于自己的。” 获自由，在他的公司50周 正如所有东德慢慢地 年纪念时还制造了他的雕 从铁幕爬出来一样，格拉 像竖立在城中。 苏蒂里的制表师也以他们 快进到20世纪，尽管 的细致恢复小镇的名气， 格拉苏蒂在第一次世界大 与其瑞士的同行看齐。 战和大萧条中幸存，可是 今天，大约有十几 钟表生意也逃不过二战 家钟表公司位于格拉苏 盟军的轰炸（朗格的主 蒂，包括司多娃（Stowa） 要 生 产 线 几 乎 被 彻 底 摧 、NOMOS Glashutte、格 毁），然后被征用。当 拉苏蒂原创（Glashutte 他发现自己处在德国中错 Original）和迈斯特辛格 误 的 一 方 时 ， 便 连 同 格 （MeisterSinger）。朗格的 拉苏蒂小镇内其他的制 表商合并成一家统一的 公司名为VEB Glashutter Uhrenbetriebe。制造精 雕细琢、非常昂贵的腕表 根本不是新任苏联老板的 方向，反而是大量生产出 耐用不太耐看的产品。朗 格手表的首席执行官威 廉·施密德（Wilhelm 生产水平仍然讳莫如深（ Schmid）解释道：“我们 非常明显，每年大概2,000 公司死寂了40年，其他的 只），整个小镇的高端腕 公司也是如此。” 表的生产量被认为是大概 “萨克森州不幸地处于 每年120,000只。 铁幕后面。但有趣的是他 朗格再一次成为这一 的曾祖父在回归的同一天 切的中心点。威廉说“我 找到了公司——沃尔特· 们有一个三代是制表师的 朗格（Walter Lange）重 家庭，但是后来整个地区

“腕表的每一个小部分 都经过打磨、装饰和用 人手拼合” 都制表，但还是有它的浪 漫在这里。我们甚至有自 己的学校。 我们是在一个山区小 镇，所以如果我们不培 养、转授知识给他们，就 再不会有制表师。我们尝 试每年收20个新生，这是 一个为期三年的学徒培训课

shopping 149

Assembly line up to 1,000 pieces are used to create a grand complication

“每个领域都代表着德国 注重细节著名的精神”

I

About face watchmaking apprenticeships last three years

n what was once the communist east of Germany, south of the city of Dresden in the land of Saxony you’ll find a town called Glashütte. Depending on whom you ask, anywhere between 2,500 and 7,000 people live there, give or take. Either way, it’s not big. But this town, nestled in a valley on the doorstep of the Erzgebirge mountains, is clever.

Once paying its way in the world thanks to the mining industry, Glashütte began to struggle when the reserves started drying up in the 19th century. Other streams of income weren’t exactly plentiful – basket-weaving was said to be a popular choice – but a chap called Ferdinand Adolph Lange believed the answer to the town’s problems could be found in horology. Having trained as a watchmaker for seven years with the famed Johann Gutkaes – starting as a 15-year-old apprentice, ending as 程，所以不管在什么时候， 表，用了大概6年来制作。 his assistant – Lange embarked on a four-year 学校里也会有40到600名 他们有两位技术最精湛的 fact-finding trip around Europe, taking in 学生，年龄在16至18岁之 制表师不断钻研，当时他 France, England and Switzerland. 间。” 们制造了七枚，一枚留给 Fastidiously taking notes as he went, 那些成功毕业的毕业生 自己，六枚给客人。无论 his workbook of findings from across the 会被分派到企业中四个领 您从那个角度来看这个项 continent became the foundation for his own 域的其中一个，每个领域 目，威廉承认：“它虽然 company. He would not only make watches, 都代表着德国注重细节著 不 是 一 个 好 的 商 业 案 例 ， but also train watchmakers, and those that 名的精神。威廉说：“领 但是企业很好的代表作。” didn’t end up working for him would set 域包括机器、完成（抛光） 在这点上很难不赞同 up on their own. The ripple effect would be 、预装配、然后总装。我们 威廉，除了其异常复杂的 incredible, and before long Glashütte would 是典型的德国人，所以进 内部运作（它是公司最复 become known as the watchmaker city. Lange 行双组装。我们会拿一只 杂的手表），还配备大小 was not only granted the freedom of the town, 手表，把它组装，检查准 自鸣报时装置、三问报时 but he also had a statue of him erected when 确度，如果没有问题，我 装置、万年历及具有追针 the company reached its 50th year. 们会将他拆解作最后的装 和1／5跳秒功能的计时码 Fast forward to the 20th century and despite 饰，然后再组装。” 表。以玫瑰金包裹，配以 Glashütte surviving World War I and the Great 腕表的每一个小部分 玫瑰金、蓝镀金指针，真 Depression, the watchmaking business was 都经过打磨、装饰和用人 是不简单。它的价格也不 first hit hard by allied bombing in World War 手拼合，朗格的腕表从制 简单，超过200万元。 II (Lange’s main production line was almost 造到被安置的整个过程中 对 于 G r a n d completely destroyed) and then by expropriation. 都一丝不苟，过程中间已 Complication腕表的所 Finding itself on the wrong side of Germany’s 经函盖了许许多多的部 有内部制作，威廉认为没 divide, it was seized and merged along with its 分。威廉说：“Grand 有炫耀的必要，他解释 fellow Glashütte watchmakers into one unified Complication这款腕表不 道：“我常被问到为何不 company, VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe. 同部位的零件大概从180到 把腕表反过来，让人可以 Needless to say, making delicately crafted 1,000个，但那是一只价值 看到手表的内部。可是对 pieces of very expensive wrist candy wasn’t on 200万欧元的手表。” 我们而言内部是给腕表的 the cards for the new Soviet bosses. Churning 花了7年时间来开发的 拥有人享受的，其他人知 out durable, not-so-pretty items was, however.

Grand Complication腕 道与否并不重要。”◆ “The company was dead for 40 years, as were

shopping 151 Time after time glashÜtte is once again replete with watchmakers

all of the other companies,” explains Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Sohne.

“Unfortunately, Saxony was behind the Iron Curtain. But after reunification – funnily enough, on exactly the same date his great grandfather had founded the company – Walter Lange re-founded the business. Four years later they came up with the first collection, which caused quite a stir back then. It was quite unusual for a company to start with four movements of its own, because it was more common that you purchased your movement elsewhere, individualised it in some way and then claimed it be yours.”

As all of East Germany slowly crept out from behind the Iron Curtain, Glashütte’s

“ T he amount of parts starts from about 1 8 0 and ends up with 1 , 0 0 0 for the G rand C omplication ” watchmakers did likewise, going about their meticulous ways and restoring the town’s reputation as being at least on par with its Swiss counterparts. Today, around a dozen watch companies reside in Glashütte, including the likes of Stowa, NOMOS Glashütte, Glashütte Original and MeisterSinger. While production levels remain a closely guarded secret for A. Lange & Sohne (roughly 2,000 a year, apparently), the town’s production for fine watches is thought to be around the 120,000-a-year mark.

Once again, A. Lange & Sohne is at the heart of it all. “We have one family that has three generations of watchmakers,” says Wilhelm, “but then the whole area is all about watchmaking, it still has that romance about it here – we even have our own school. We’re in a tiny town in the mountains, so if we don’t train them and give them apprenticeships there will be no watchmakers. We try to get in 20 new students a year, and it’s a three-year

The right time the watchmaking city even has its own school

shopping The human touch Every timepiece is polished, decorated and assembled by hand

152

All in the detail each watch is assembled and then re-assembled.

apprenticeship, so at any given time there are between 40 and 60 people at the school, aged between 16 and 18.”

Those that make the grade could find themselves in one of four areas of the business, each representing that famed Germanic attention to detail. “The areas are machine, finish (polish), pre-assembly, then final assembly,” explains Wilhelm. “We’re typically German in that we do a double assemble. So we’ll take a watch, assemble it, check the accuracy, and if it works perfectly, we’ll disassemble it again, put on the final decoration then assemble it again.”

With every little part of the watch being polished, decorated and pieced together by hand, there is nothing that goes straight from being made to being placed in an A. Lange & Sohne watch. And that’s a lot of parts we’re talking about, too. “The amount [of different parts] starts from about 180 and ends up with 1,000 for the Grand Complication, but that is a watch worth about two million Euros,” says Wilhelm.

Taking seven years to develop, the Grand Complication then takes around six years to produce. With two of their very best watchmakers working on it constantly, in that time they’ll make seven – one for them, six for the customers. Whichever way you look at it, Wilhelm admits, “It’s not a good business case, but it is a good statement for the business.”

It’s hard to disagree. Aside from its ridiculously intricate inner workings (it is after all, the company’s most complicated watch), it brings together a grand and small strike, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a chronograph with a rattrapante function, and a flying seconds hand that stops time to within one-fifth of a second. Encased within 18-carat pink gold with gold hands and a blued-steel second hand, it’s quite something.

In fact, it’s two million somethings.

But for all of the work that goes on inside the Grand Complication, Wilhelm reckons it doesn’t need to show off about it. “I often get asked why we don’t put the watch upside down so that people can see inside of it,” he explains. “But, for us, it’s not important that other people know what’s inside – that’s something for the owner to enjoy.” ◆

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people

张新—— 中國新天際線 的億萬富翁女王 她九岁的时候无家可归，青少年时期在工厂里当女 工。利奥·刘易斯提出了一个疑问：究竟张新是如何 成为中国最富有的女人之一？

154

Rags to riches At nine she was homeless; as a teenager, she worked on factory floors. So how did Zhang Xin become one of China’s richest women? Leo Lewis finds out Photographs Getty Images

于

只此一家的北京 美洲俱乐部里的 顶层复式物业内， 中国最具权威的女人面上 带着淡淡的微笑，快速的 跟房间里坐在一圈扶手椅 上的每个人来个眼神接触， 并且把这群优秀的精英的 注意力招聚起来，继而进 入安静的状态。 北京天际线的女王—— 张欣，她是房地产开发商， 是国家最具影响力的房地 产公司Soho中国的行政总 裁。她穿着一件看上去洁 净却不招摇的朱红色上衣， 正在主持一场有关中国的 未来和共产党与中国跟外 界接触的讨论。跟她同坐 一张沙发的是当晚的主要讲 员彼得·曼德尔森（Peter Mandelson）。他的著作 The Third Man: Life at the Heart of New Labour最

近翻译成中文，在党中的 领导高层中广受欢迎。坐 在他们周围的是经过特别 配搭的中国商界领袖、外 交官、记者和资深金融家。 这个晚上反映了张女士的 地位，一位世界上最成功 的女性之一。 48岁的张女士在过去 的十年中已成为女性的榜

I

nside the penthouse of the exclusive Beijing American Club, China’s most powerful woman aims a quiet smile at a circle of armchairs. She targets each occupant with a flash of eye contact and brings the exquisitely elite gathering to attention. Silence falls.

Property developer Zhang Xin, queen of the Beijing skyline, is the chief executive of Soho China, one of the country’s most influential property companies. She is immaculately but not ostentatiously dressed in a scarlet blouse, chairing a discussion that touches delicately on the future of China, of the Communist Party and of China’s engagement with the outside world. Sharing her sofa, and the evening’s main speaker, is Peter Mandelson; his book The Third Man: Life at the Heart of New Labour, newly translated into Chinese, is already popular within the

“她一直深信学 识有能力改变一切” 样，特别是有雄心壮志的 穷人和普罗大众。她的微 博有670万名粉丝是有原 因的：她的一生就是在实 践“中国梦”，年轻时只 是一名工厂女工，到现今

people 155

Quest for knowledge zhang credits her success to seeking out a good education in england

people

higher echelons of Party leadership. Around them are a unique assembly of Chinese business leaders, diplomats, journalists and high financiers. It’s an evening that reflects Zhang’s status as one of the world’s greatest female success stories.

Over the past decade, Zhang, 48, has become a role model for women, for the ambitious poor and for ordinary Chinese in general. The 6.7 million who follow her on Weibo (China’s equivalent of Twitter) are doing so for a reason. Zhang is a woman who has risen from her beginnings as a teenage factory worker to become one of the wealthiest women on the planet, overseeing an empire worth $3.6 billion (£2.2 billion).

The power of education 156

Zhang’s parents were educated Chinese Burmese who moved back to China in the Fifties when Chairman Mao’s dream was still very much alive. But during the Cultural Revolution, their university degrees counted against them: a young Zhang and her mother were separated from her father and brother and forced – as part of the country’s ‘reeducation’ program – to swap their urban lifestyle for the Chinese countryside.

At nine, Zhang was able to return to Beijing with her mother, but the city offered scant relief from debilitating poverty.

The two were briefly homeless, obliged to 成为世界上最富有的女性 都安于自己的生活，可是 sleep on the desks of a small office where 之一，管理价值36亿美元 她从来不能这样子思考。 Zhang’s mother worked translating 庞大的帝国（相等于22亿 她一直深信学识有能力改 grandstanding speeches of political 英镑）。 变一切，所以会在值班12 leaders. Life improved little. A few years 张女士的父母在缅甸 个小时后赶去上夜校。她 later, with China’s great economic boom 受教育，五十年代回到中 常只愿能跟国内成长在正 still years away, the pair moved to Hong 国，文化大革命期间他们 常家庭里同龄的女孩们所 Kong. Aged 14, Zhang toiled in the 持有的大学学位对他们不 接受的教育步伐一致。 territory’s garment factories. Driven by 利，年小的张女士和妈妈 日积月累，她的积储 the need for hard cash, she would switch 被迫跟家人分开，迁到偏 足够支付一张从香港到伦 employers for the sake of a single dollar’s 远的山区过着赤贫的生活。 敦的机票。身无分文的她 increase in pay. 张女士九岁的时候跟 只带上一份移民的野心来 “The motivation for working in the 母亲回到北京，可惜当时 到了伦敦，开始另一段在 factories was to get out of the factories,” 没有太完善的济贫政策， 最低阶层为现金拼搏的日 Zhang says. The girls alongside her appeared 母女俩无家可归，只可以 子。这次唯一不一样的是 content with their lives. She could never 睡在张母替政治家翻译讲 每天下班后都有英语课。 contemplate that. Convinced even then that 章的桌子上。几年后生活 这个策略成功了，她利用 education had the power to change all, Zhang 仍然没有改善，14岁的张 助学金和奖学金获得了在 would scurry from each 12-hour shift straight 女士便跟母亲去到香港， 萨塞克斯大学（University to evening classes. She dreamt constantly, 在环境恶劣局促的制衣厂 of Sussex）的学位。其后， she says, simply of keeping pace with the 当工人。在极度需要现金 她在剑桥大学（University education ‘normal’ teenage schoolgirls would 的情况下，她甚至会为了 of Cambridge）完成了发 be receiving back in China. 工钱只涨一块钱而换工作。 展经济学硕士学位。 Slowly, her savings grew to the point where 张女士说：“在工厂 今年年初，张女士以 she could afford a plane ticket from Hong 工作的动力就是要离开工 法学荣誉博士的身份回到 Kong to London. Armed with nothing but a 厂。”工厂里其他女孩们 母校萨塞克斯大学给毕业 raw immigrant’s ambition, she arrived in the

仍然严重缺乏的。” 越来越多的中国家庭 已经认识到这一点，并支 付昂贵的费用送子女出国 留学。中国显然不缺创业 精神的人，但大部分是跟 中国经济体系仍然处于起 步阶段有关。 她想知道倘若自己出 生在一个经济发达的年代， 会否能够行使这种她渴望 的创新力。九十年代时远 在他方的她意识到中国可 以提供这样的机会。 在英国完成学业后， 张女士到位于西区的华尔 街工作，那是一条通往高 盛集团和资本主义心脏的 路径。一众人才的激烈竞 争最终使张女士精疲力尽， 她说：“我已准备好要离

“这里是一个培养我、激励我 和鼓励我跟着最深的本能而走 的地方⋯⋯”

Across the Galaxy Zhang’s cavernous office overlooks the beijing skyline

UK and began another lowest-rung scrabble for cash. This time, there were English classes at the end of each work day. The strategy paid off: using grants and scholarships, she secured a place at the University of Sussex.

Afterwards, she completed a master’s degree in development economics at Cambridge.

Earlier this year, Zhang returned to Sussex as an honorary Doctor of Laws and delivered a speech to graduating students. “It is the place that cultivated me, inspired me and encouraged me to follow my deepest instincts and to become the person that I am today. For this I am truly grateful,” she told them. “If I look back at my life and ask myself what was the most important transformational element, I would say education. The point it all changed was when I decided to go to England to become a student.

“When I first got there, I thought there has to be a model answer for these essays we write every week, because that is how the Chinese write. I would submit the essay and my tutor would call us in, and he wasn’t interested at all in whether this answer was right or wrong.

Only later, I understood this is a way of cultivating your intellectual curiosity… That is still largely missing in Chinese education.”

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生发表演说。她告诉他 们：“这里是一个培养我、 激励我和鼓励我跟着最深 的本能而走的地方，因此 造就了今天的我。对此， 我深存感激。” 她继续说：“倘若我 回首使我生命改变最重要 的元素是什么，我会说是 教育。从我决定赴英国留 学的那一刻开始，一切都 改变了。 “刚开始的时候每周要 交一份论文，我还以为跟 国内一样都有标准答案， 当我把论文交 给导 师 后， 他会把我们叫进房间，却 对论文的答案的对与错完 全没有兴趣。后来我才明 白这是激发求知欲的教育 方式⋯⋯也是中国教育中

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开。华尔街未能提供让我 参与在中国的机会。” Soho在她回到中国 后诞生。她在北京遇上了 丈夫潘石屹，短短几天之 后潘先生向她求婚并成 功。这样的情况在中国很 常见。 张女士把Soho的成 功归功于公司的愿景和 无比的努力。她说：“我 们不是某某家的儿子或女 儿，也没有有权有势的朋 友，当然我们也不会花任 何时间培养这些关系。我 知道有许多商人都会这样 子做，我却每晚七点回家 跟家人吃晚饭。我们的应 酬不多。” 潘先生，49岁，也是 一位从赤贫到暴富的典例。 出生在甘肃省，家庭在文 革期间开始贫困。潘家有 两个儿子，张女士讲到她 如何“敬虔”地每天跟他 们一家人用晚餐，还出席

他们的足球和网球比赛。 然而，两口子的婚姻 并不是一凡风顺。在2010 年，有人声称潘先生与一 名长江商学院的学员有个7 岁的私生子。对此，张新 已经原谅了他，并于2012 年在微博上发表：“我们 经历过很多风风雨雨，早 年在我们的生意起步时有 许多的闲话、传言说我们 要离婚。但每一次的考验 都让我们的婚姻更稳固， 让我们更珍惜这个家。” 这个夫妻搭档促使了 一个高效得令人震惊的商 务合作关系。他们把北京 发展商的门槛提高了，吸 引世界上一些最爱冒险的 建筑师在首都打造一栋栋 抢眼的建筑物。 在北京美洲俱乐部的 同一条街上，是张女士对 这个城市天际线最新的贡 献——银河Soho。它拥有 起起伏伏的曲线和看起来

More and more Chinese families recognise this and pay handsomely to send their children to study abroad. The big question for China, Zhang says, is whether that kind of education can be replicated back home.

There is no shortage of entrepreneurial spirit in China, she says, but much of it derives from the relative infancy of the Chinese economic system.

opportunity knocks Zhang wonders whether, had she been born into a developed economy, she’d have been able to exercise the creativity she desired.

In the Nineties, she sensed from a distance that China would offer such opportunities.

After her studies in the UK, Zhang headed west for a career in Wall Street – a path that took her to Goldman Sachs and the capitalist beast. The competitive hothousing of talent was ultimately exhausting. “I was ready to leave. Wall Street didn’t give me a chance to participate in China,” she says, the accent of her faultless English swaying between a Sussex university tutorial and a Wall Street cocktail party.

Soho came into being when she returned to China. She met her husband, Pan Shiyi, in Beijing and he proposed just a few days later – not uncommon in China. “We are not the sons and daughters of anybody,” says Zhang, strenuously rejecting the idea that the success of Soho is owed to anything more than vision and exceptionally hard work.

“Nor do we have powerful friends, and we certainly do not spend any time cultivating those relationships. I know a lot of businesspeople do that. I normally go home at 7pm every evening and have dinner with my family. We don’t socialise much.”

Pan, 49, is also a rags-to-riches hero, born in Gansu Province to a family stricken by poverty during the Cultural Revolution. The couple have two sons, and Zhang has told of how she is ‘religious’ about having breakfast and dinner with them every day, and goes to their football and tennis matches.

The marriage, though, has not been without its squabbles. In 2010, it was claimed Pan had a seven-year-old love child with a student at the Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business.

Zhang was said to have forgiven him and in 2012 posted on Weibo: “We’ve been through all kinds of trials and hardships, from the pressure in the early years of starting our business to the gossip that repeatedly says we are divorcing. But every trial has made our marriage more solid and made us cherish our family even more.”

但我看不出来这些问题如 何是对方的副产品。” 有个论题一直离不开 张女士，就是她的性别如 何跟她的成功挂钩。她撇 去了“中国最成功的女性” 的标签，表明国家本身担 当着关键的角色，就是一 个经济发展的阶段里处于 相对公平的竞争环境。跟 其他国家相比，中国创造 鼓舞人心的商界女性领袖 是领先于世界的。 她说道：“性别里分 两极，一边是在中国的农 村地区，那里的人并不希 望拥有女生。可是同时在 中国里白手起家的女性也 比任何其他国家都多。 “虽然预期男性成功比 女性要高，但若然女生有 机会被培训、发愤图强并 给予一个公平的机会，她 们会做得很好。” 她积极地使用微博的 其中一个原因是：“我觉 得微博比任何其他的途径 更有效。它把社会推向更 开放。在微博上，每个人 的声音都会被听见。” 张女士的影响力并没 有被中国当局忽视。她跻 身中国的“大V”微博用 户，代表拥有巨大的追随 者数量的专属标志。虽然 微博每次发布的字数限制 是140字，张女士所发布 的微博已足够移动金融市 场和引起一天的辩论。 她说：“我不懂撒谎。 诚实是这个社会极需要的 元素。外界常争论我所发 布的东西会否受到批评， 但我的想法是‘管它呢。’ 您自我审查，同时也会找 到自己的个性。” 张新的分享可能是 于中国最有益的。年初 她自掏腰包，迅速地 收购曼哈顿通用汽车大 厦（General Motors Building）大量的股权。 八十年代有一家匿名的日 本企业买下西部具标志性 的物业，惊动了亚洲，造 成了恐慌。今天却换成是 这位打扮整齐、拥有两个 孩子的中国籍母亲。 ◆

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像外星人的拱顶，是一个 结合办公室和零售空间的 商业体，四栋大楼的顶上 是一个巨型商场。除了它 的曲线，该建筑最突出的 特点就是它的颜色：纯洁 、具挑衅性的白色。设计 师扎哈·哈迪德（Zaha Hadid）是一位英籍伊拉 克人。对于这个张女士所 成长、天际灰蒙的北京而 言，银河Soho是一个极大 的视觉挑战。 张女士特别觉得银河 有家的感觉。坐落于设计 沉闷的外交部大楼和一些 暗褐色的公司总部之间， 张女士的建筑设计明显地 象征着一位女性希望改变 城市面貌的渴望。倘若在 70年代的时候，中国的首 都什么也没有赐给年轻的 张女士反而只留下了痛苦， 那在21世纪初这个首都却 赐下了机会——使张女士 变得富有和具冒险的精神。 无论是对中国的发展 还是对张女士自己事业的 顶峰，银河Soho无疑是一 面壮观的里程碑。从空旷 的地下室通往位于东南角 的办公室途中，经过一个 几乎没有租户的购物中心， 原因是购买单位的投资者 没有很大的意欲把单位出 租。张女士耸耸肩然后说 道，零售业是有点棘手， 但北京和上海的营业经济 还尚算可以（Soho中国主 要营运的两个城市）。 今天北京的天际线已 经烟雾朦胧。Soho集团 的建筑一般都是脱颖而出， 但从她办公室的窗口纵观 这个城市，却几乎没有办 法分别Soho集团旗下所开 发其他的区域。 张女士认为环境污染 跟城市化有关系，她的开 发也是其中的一部分。她 说：“如果‘城市化’的 广义是代表过去三十年的 经济改革和现代性，那么 在积极的方面来看，一切 已有的开发建立了这个城 市，而且高楼林立。从消 极的一面来看，则引发了 污染、腐败和各种的问题。

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The husband-wife team has endured as a frighteningly efficient business partnership.

They have raised the bar for all developers in Beijing, enticing some of the world’s most adventurous architects to build eyecatching buildings all over the capital. Just down the road from the Beijing American Club is Zhang’s latest contribution to the city skyline: the undulating, alien-looking domes of Galaxy Soho, a combination of office and retail space with four towers atop a massive mall. As well as its curves, the building’s most striking feature is its colour: pure, provocative white. Designed by the Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, Galaxy Soho is a violent visual challenge to the grey of the Beijing Zhang grew up in.

Zhang seems especially at home in the Galaxy. Defiantly nestled between the dreary, blocky Foreign Ministry building and some dun corporate headquarters, few of her creations so clearly symbolise one woman’s desire to change the look of a city. In the early 21st century, the Chinese capital presents an opportunity – a canvas that has made Zhang rich and adventurous.

The Galaxy Soho is a spectacular monument to both China’s development and Zhang’s own razor-edged hustle.

The walk through the cavernous basement

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to the office dome in its south-east corner leads through a shopping mall with barely any occupants. The towers, their units sold to investors with little motive to rent them out, also look empty. She shrugs.

Retail is a bit tricky, but the economics of the business in Beijing and Shanghai (the two main cities where Soho operates) are working fine, she says.

It happens that today the Beijing skyline has been thwarted by the smog. Looking across town from the imperious windows of her office, it is nearly impossible to make out the other Soho developments that normally stand out so prominently from the sprawl. Zhang bristles at the idea pollution is linked to the sort of urbanisation of which her developments are part. “If we use ‘urbanisation’ in a loose way to say it represents the past 30 years of economic reform and modernity, then, yes, all that development has produced, on the positive side, the cities and the high-rises. On the negative side: pollution, corruption and all kinds of problems. But I don’t see how these are the by-products of each other,” she says.

Straight shooting One discussion in particular is constantly floating around Zhang: her gender and how it relates to her success. She shrugs off the ‘China’s most powerful woman’ tag, suggesting that the country itself – and the relatively level playing field that exists at this stage of its economic development – plays a critical role. China might be gnawed by some imbalances, but it also leads the world in the creation of inspiring female business figures.

“Gender has two extremes,” she says.

“On one hand you go to rural China, where girls are not favoured. But China is also the place that produces more self-made women than any other country.

“There is much more expectation on men to be successful than women. But when you have these girls who are trained to be so driven and are given a fair opportunity, they do really well.” She is quick to point out that in many of China’s villages, girls are typically relied upon to do a lot more than their male counterparts.

This, she says, is one of the main reasons she is so devoted to Weibo: “I think this is far more effective than any other way.

Weibo is pushing society to be more open.

On Weibo, everybody’s voice is being heard.”

Indeed, Zhang numbers among China’s ‘Big V’ Weibo users – a designation given to those celebrities or notable figures who have been ‘Verified’ for having a huge number of followers. They are users who possess an undeniable ability to lead public thought. “I don’t know how to lie,” she says. “Honesty is desperately needed in society. I am always debating whether I will be criticised if I post something.

But if it matters, I think, ‘To hell with it.’

If you post the sort of cheesy, lovey-dovey, chicken-soup-for-the-soul stuff, then that will typically be forwarded a lot. I never do that. You self-censor, but you also come to find your own personality.”

It may well be in China’s best interests to listen to what Zhang has to say.

Earlier in 2013 she bought, effectively from her own pocket, a large stake in the General Motors building in Manhattan.

It was a big moment for China. In the Eighties, it was faceless Japanese corporations who bought the iconic properties in the West and prompted a shiver of Asia-phobia. Today, it’s an immaculately groomed Chinese mother of two. ◆

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l ast word

谭浩泰

悉尼著名的东海酒家老板，谭浩泰跟 我们分享他最喜爱的地方⋯⋯ 上海是我很喜欢的地方⋯⋯ 这是我最喜欢的城市之一，我常到那里公干， 喜欢它当地的风情混合了旧法国和英国殖民 时代的元素。这是一个多姿多彩的城市，总 是 在不断 地 变 化，每 一次 到访 都能 发现 新 事物。

我一直在喝很多咖啡⋯⋯ 我正在推出新的业务 Dough Collective （这是一家烘焙店，售卖各式各样的面包和优 质咖啡），也学会了有关不同种类的咖啡豆， 以及制作它们最好的方式。在悉尼最好的咖 啡非Single Origin莫属，他们甚至有自己的 实验室进行试验！

我无需多讲⋯⋯ 位于悉尼市中心 Establishment 第四层的日 本餐馆Sushi－e的厨师已经知道我想吃的是 什么。对我而言这里拥有悉尼最棒的日本菜。 一级棒的鲷鱼鲜甜无比，非常完美。轻轻烤一 下的扇贝也有着无与伦比的境界。它们的水 准维持得相当好，而且厨师从头到尾一直都 在，所以质量确实是不一样。

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my higher life

Henry Tam Owner of the famed East Ocean Restaurant in Sydney, Henry Tam reveals his favourite places ... it's one of my favourite cities. I go there fairly often for business trips and I love the way it mixes the old French and English colonial elements with the local flavours. There's so much colour to the city, and it's always changing.

Every time you go back there you discover something new.

I've been drinking a lot of coffee... ... it's for a new business I'm launching called the Dough Collective (it's a bakery selling lots of different breads with great coffee), and I've learnt all about the different types of beans and the best way to make it. Single Origin in Sydney is definitely the best – they've even got their own laboratory for experimenting!

不能抗拒的博物馆⋯⋯ 我 是 博 物 馆 的 爱 好 者 ，海 事 博 物 馆 （Maritime Museum）肯定是我的挚爱。 军舰、潜艇、里面实在有太多好看的，也很适 合孩子们。

伯克街烘焙店⋯⋯ 有著名的 酸面包，而整个萨利山区（Su r r y H i l l s ）也 是 美 食 处 处 。意 大 利 冰 淇 淋 店 Messina赫赫有名，原因是它们所做的非常 出色。

轻松休闲的墨尔本⋯⋯ 这里似乎比悉尼轻松得多。人们享受生活， 这里的文化、时尚，一切都非常天然、有机。 墨尔本人不像悉尼人匆忙，似乎拥有较多的 时间去做一切的事情。

Organic food markets... ... have become quite popular in Sydney recently and the one in Eveleigh is probably my favourite. It's in an old carriageworks warehouse and it just has everything you could want there – fruit, veg, eggs, meat, coffee! I've been there a few times now and it's great to explore.

You can't beat a good museum... ... I just love museums. The Maritime Museum is a favourite for sure. The warships, the submarines – there's loads to see there, and good for the kids too.

Bourke Street Bakery...

... and the chef knows what I want to eat at Sushi-e on level four of the Establishment. For me, it's the best Japanese in Sydney. They do the best snapper; it's so fresh, so perfect. The scallops, just seared lightly, are perfect.

They're just so consistent and the chef has been there since the beginning, which makes a big different to quality.

... is the home of sourdoughs, but that whole Surry Hills area is good as well. Messina, for gelato, is obviously renowned, and for good reason too – they're exceptional at what they do.

... Guangzhou. I love Cantonese food and in this part of China, so close to the sea, they do the best seafood. And

最 近 在 悉 尼 非 常 受 欢 迎 ，位 于 伊 芙 利 （Eveleigh）的有机市场应该是我最喜欢的。 一个旧车厂仓库内提供一切您想要的，包括 水果、蔬菜、鸡蛋、肉类、和咖啡！我已经去 过几次，那是一个值得探索的地方。

there's always so much choice as well.

The restaurants always offer such a wide selection, it's quite incredible.

Razor clams are always good!

I don't even say a word...

If you love seafood, go to...

广州，我喜欢广东菜，而且广州的地 理位置 靠 近 海洋，所以出产 最 好的海鲜 并且种类

有机食品市场⋯⋯

Melbourne is so relaxing... ... it just seems to take things a lot easier than Sydney. People enjoy the lifestyle there – it's the culture, the fashion, it's all so organic. They just don't seem to be in as much of a rush as people in Sydney; they seem to have more time to do everything.

Henry's place The famed dim sum at East ocean

Eastern delights Surry Hills’ Bourke Street Bakery

Photography by Sarah Coghill

I absolutely love Shanghai...

如果您是海鲜爱好者， 请到⋯⋯

繁多，餐厅提供广泛的选择，相当令人惊叹。 蛏子总是非常美味！

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