Higher View - Issue 07

HIGHER VIEW ISSUE # 07

探索澳大利亚 最壮观的奇迹

Little Shanghai Beneath the bright lights

April 2014

大堡礁

# 07

S

Creative P A C E

S

Streets of Beijing Exploring the hutongs

观澜湖之旅

专访观澜湖主席 朱鼎建博士

CHINA NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE, SYDNEY

From SH A NG HAI T O B EI J I NG , C H IN A’S LOVE F OR MOD ER N AR T

We have changed 16 out of 405 parts and added another 46.

Calibre L951.6

For over 10 years, the Datograph has been the benchmark in

free readings of stopped times. Apart from its sheer precision, the

chronographs. Thanks to its flyback function, only one actuation of

aesthetic beauty of its manufacture calibre won widespread acclaim

a push piece is needed to stop, reset, and restart the chrono hand.

in precision watchmaking. In the new Datograph Up/Down, the

Additionally, a precisely jumping minute counter delivers doubt-

eponymous power-reserve display reveals that its autonomy has been

Watches of Switzerland · 294 Collins Street Melbourne · (03) 9671 3388 Four Seasons Hotel · 199 George Street Sydney · (02) 9251 0088 · 38 King Street Perth · (08) 9322 8800 www.watchswiss.com

For the benefit of an extra power reserve.

DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN

increased to 60 hours thanks to the refinement of the mainspring

of 62 parts were reworked, the watchmakers preserved the proven

barrel. Moreover, the engineers endowed the watch with a proprietary

design features in the Datograph Up/Down. A considerable amount

freely oscillating hairspring and a balance wheel with eccentric

of work reveals itself only to aficionados – an A. Lange & SÜhne

poising weights to assure superior rate accuracy. Although a total

custom that has always been appreciated. www.alange-soehne.com

©T&CO. 2014

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悉尼最全的精美瑞士腕表系列 p ro u d l y a c c e pt i n g china union pay

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中国驻悉尼旅游办事处

introduction 14

Welcome from CNTO, Sydney

Welcome from China Eastern

中

上

E

S

国的每一个大城小镇都拥有着博大精深、源远流长的历史， 海以其雕栏玉砌的建筑、繁华的生活以及盛行购物疗法而 可是当人们到访参观众多雄伟的宝塔、寺庙以及古代的宫殿 闻名国际，可是人们往往忽略这个繁忙都市安静的一面。 时，也应该多花时间来看看中国现代化的一面。 一个隐藏在法国租借区闸门后的石库门建筑风格住宅区，人们是 在北京、西安和天津，著名的景点如故宫和兵马俑有着不可思 漫步而不是竞步，还有时间愿意分享一、两个有关这个美丽城 议的魅力吸引着游客。不过倘若您仔细观看，不难发现有些城市 市的故事。本期的《翼境》中我们带领您漫步在上海的静安别 不管在艺术、美食或建筑上已完全接受了现代思想。当然，相反地 墅 （第100页至108页），发现这里提供一个除了大灯和大企业 在上海这个被公认是一个有着快节奏的大都市，倘若进一步的探 以外别树一帜的选择。 索（第100页至108页），您也会发现在摩天大楼之间传统的踪迹。 人们也经常只看到北京有名的景点，但有许多地方比这更值得 中国对高尔夫的看法也在不断变化，在第146页至152页将会找 探究。第52页至58页，我们前往胡同寻找探险之旅。 到这个让人印象深刻，有关于22个观澜湖高尔夫球场坐落在两个 我们关注的还有现代艺术，中国的艺术爱好者正在以有趣的 城市——海南和深圳的故事。 方式来拥抱当代文化，请翻到第86至93页了解更多。 very city and town in China has an enormous depth of history. But while people visit to see the many splendid pagodas, temples and ancient palaces, they should also take time to look at the other side – the modern China.

In Beijing, Xi’an and Tianjin, it’s attractions such as the Forbidden Palace or the Terracotta Warriors that are such incredible drawcards to tempt tourists. But take a closer look and you’ll find cities that have truly embraced modern thinking, whether it’s in the worlds of art, food or architecture. Of course, the opposite also applies; Shanghai has a well-deserved reputation as a fast-paced metropolis, but explore further (as we have on pages 100 to 108) and you’ll find a traditional slice among the skyscrapers.

China has also been changing opinions in the field of golf, thanks to Mission Hills, the No.1 facility in the world.

With 22 courses across two sites in Hainan and Shenzhen, its story is impressive – as you’ll find on pages 146 to 152.

hanghai is renowned for its stunning buildings, bustling lifestyle and status as the global home of retail therapy, but what people often overlook is the quieter side of this busy metropolis – a place where people stroll rather than speed and have time to share a story or two about their incredible city. That place is among the shikumenstyle residences hidden behind gates within the French Concession area. In this issue (pages 100-108) of Higher View we take a stroll through the Jing’an Villas to discover a welcome alternative to bright lights and big business.

People also often just look at Beijing for its obvious attractions, but there’s so much more for those willing to explore. On pages 52 to 58, we do exactly that, heading down the hutongs in search of adventure. And modern art is also on our radar, as we look at the intriguing ways in which China’s art lovers are embracing contemporary culture. Find out more on pages 86 to 93.

Higher View Issue 7

Sub Editor Adam Scroggy

Creative Director Paul Cook

Advertising

business class passengers

Group Editor Alex Mead

Contributors Lisa Perkovic, Fiona Harper, Sarah Coghill, Anne Smith, Pan Hua, May Hu, Sarah O’Meara, Mark Parren Taylor

Editorial Director Richard Ryan

Max La-Brooy (02) 9186 9138 max@citrusmedia.com.au

between China and Australia.

alexm@citrusmedia.com.au

Art Director Stephanie Goh Editorial Assistants Constantina Pilatos, Trent van der Jagt

Production Manager Ian Scott

Higher View is produced for on China Eastern flights It can also be found in select

Crystal Wong (02) 9186 9126

newsagents and hotels.

crystal@citrusmedia.com.au

via the App Store.

Publisher Jim Flynn (02) 9186 9196

Citrus Media

Printed by Webstar.

jim@citrusmedia.com.au

NSW 2002

Financial Controller Stuart Harle

PO Box 20154 World Square

An iPad edition is available

© 2014 Citrus Media. All rights reserved. No article or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher.

Citrus Media is a division of Media Factory Pty Ltd. While every care was taken during the preparation of this magazine, Citrus Media cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it.

All views and opinions expressed herein are the personal views of the writer/photographer and do

not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of China National Tourism Office Sydney (CNTO) or any of its employees, affiliates or agencies.

Higher View is an independent publication and is in no way endorsed by CNTO. The contents/ photos do not necessarily represent the views of China Eastern Airlines.

愛馬仕 - 時間的重新定義

愛馬仕 - 時間的重新定義

arceau petite lune 愛馬仕鐘錶帶您飛向月球 無論是新月或滿月,上弦或下弦,均能在您的手腕上得到展現 通過機械運動的有規律節奏,您的愛馬仕呈現給您 地球衛星相對於太陽的位置 愛馬仕鐘錶帶您飛向月球 沐浴在柔和的月光下,愛馬仕敘述著時間的故事 無論是新月或滿月,上弦或下弦,均能在您的手腕上得到展現 通過機械運動的有規律節奏,您的愛馬仕呈現給您 地球衛星相對於太陽的位置 Sydney, Surfers Paradise, Melbourne, Marina Mirage, Brisbane. Hermes.com 沐浴在柔和的月光下,愛馬仕敘述著時間的故事 Tel. 1300 728 807

Contents 21 News 时事要闻 What’s going on where across Shanghai, Beijing, Sydney and Melbourne 28 Xi’an in eight stops... 西安之旅 Here’s what not to miss in China’s ancient capital 34 Guided tour 酒酿西澳 Taste the many beer flavours Western Australia has to offer 36 48 hours in Tianjin 天津48小时 Spend two days in China’s sixth largest metropolis 40 澳洲第一州 新南威尔斯除了是澳洲首个州 以外还拥有许多的“第一”，潘 华、胡玫将带领我们逐一细探 42 Reef encounter 邂逅珊瑚礁 Discover the best islands and diving spots of the Great Barrier Reef

52 Hutong clans 胡同氏族 Mark Parren Taylor explores the maze of hutongs in Beijing 60 Capital gains 首都首睹 Australia’s capital is undergoing a revival, says Trent van der Jagt 66 Guangzhou on a plate 广州美食 Alex Mead discovers food is never far from the mouth in Guangzhou

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Q u e en s l a n d

Reef encounter

Contents

126

Contents

Tiffany & Co.

86

18

Shanghai

Change of art 78 Crowning glory 璀璨皇冠 Crown Melbourne is unashamedly big, bold and beautiful

86 Change of art 上海艺术 Shanghai’s art galleries are masterpieces in their own right 94 Sweet valley high 甜甜谷高中 Wolgan Valley encapsulates true country luxury

100 Memory lanes 我们的沪 Shanghai’s friendly locals have tales to tell 110 Streets of gold 金光赫赫 Explore the gold rush towns of Australia

119 Higher life 奢华生活 From fast cars to designer fashion, here are this season’s must-haves 126 Tiffany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Tiffany & Co.’s exclusive Blue Book Collection 140 When in Rome 罗马之时 Celebrating 130 years of flamboyant Bulgari jewels 146 Mission statement 观澜湖 Meet Chairman of Mission Hills golf complex Dr Ken Chu 154 Magic touch 魔幻赛马 It’s not just fashion on the fields at the Magic Millions

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Mission statement

162 My higher life 享受两国黄芝琪 Grace Huang enjoys the best of both worlds

四十三载求精创新 马森风彩璀粲人生 欢迎光临悉尼维多利亚大楼的新马森珠宝专卖店 世界鼎级钻石, 澳洲珍稀粉钻, 至尊优质服务将一同呈献！ 免税, 七天营业. duty free, open 7 days.

Our luxurious new boutique in Chatswood Chase is now open!

Winter food

club house

French affair

fancy sweets

Australia welcomes the truffle season to its shores p22

Whiskey lovers unite at Beijing's Johnnie Walker House p24

Monet's famous paintings tour China for the first time p26

Melbourne plates up desserts that look too good to eat p31

新酿香茗 您有尝过龙井茶、紫笋茶吗？我们也没有品尝 过，但在上海国际茶文化节中这一切都能找得 到。来自全国各地的茶农将展示他们独特混合的 茶种，成千上万好奇的游客将于五月份踊跃参加 这个为期一周的展会。tea-shexpo.cn

a new brew Ever tried Dragon Well flavoured tea? How about Purple Bamboo Shoot? Neither have we, but at the Shanghai International Tea Culture Festival anything is game. Tea growers from around the country will present their unique blends as thousands of curious visitors pour into the week-long expo in May. tea-shexpo.com/en/index.asp

food

松露时光 Truff le time news

随着夏季慢慢的离开，异国风味的水果和蔬菜也跟着消失， 冬天却提供了完美的替代品— —松露

While summer slowly disappears and its exotic fruits and vegetables go with it, winter offers the perfect substitute: truffles

22

Melbourne, VIC

Manjimup, WA

canberr a , ACT

墨尔本松露节

西澳松露闹哄哄

堪培拉松露节

松露节是墨尔本冬季的头号盛事。整个城 市随处可见的烹调示范，让您也能成为 配对松露跟葡萄酒和芝士的专家。7月11 －13日。

在松露盛产区中（欧洲以外最大型的） 寻觅黑松露，然后由世界著名的厨师给 您教授最好的烹调方法。6月21-22日。

坎培拉和首都地区有超过20家餐厅一同 庆祝这个盛产松露的季节。他们将会在 长达一个月的节庆期间在菜单上展示冬 季佳肴。7月份。

Melbourne Truffle Festival Melbourne's winter is ruled by the Truffle Festival. Demonstrations are offered throughout the city that will leave you expertly pairing truffles with wine and cheese. July 11-13, melbournetrufflefestival.com

Truffle Kerfuffle Hunt for black Perigords in this abundant truffle region (the largest outside Europe) before being taught the best ways to cook them by worldrenowned chefs. June 21-22, trufflekerfuffle.com.au

The Truffle Festival Over 20 restaurants in the Canberra and capital region will celebrate the truffle season by showcasing the cold-weather delicacy on their menu during the month-long festival. July, trufflefestival.com.au

hotel news Hilton Guangzhou Tianhe Take advantage of China's new 72-hour visa-free transit and extend your stopover in Guangzhou. Squeeze in a visit to Yuexiu Park and Canton Tower as well as a good night's sleep before your next flight. hilton.com

Kerry Hotel Pudong Kerry Hotel Pudong is the place for brunch in Shanghai. The MEAT steakhouse allows guests to enjoy freeflowing craft beer and their signature variety of meats, including wagyu, ribs and king prawns.

From 11:30am-3pm. shangri-la.com

Shanghai Marriott Hotel Parkview Planting its 11th flag in Shanghai, Marriott's new 317-room hotel boasts scenic views of Daning Lingshi Park, a 24-hour fitness centre, an indoor swimming pool, and access to a golf practice green. marriott.com

Wild west

news

这个冬天不止是天气掀起风云，还有第九届 的珀斯冬日艺术季拉开帷幕。珀斯将举办 200个艺术项目，包括歌舞表演、电影、戏 剧、歌剧和马戏等等。冬季。 It’s not just the weather turning wild this winter.

Perth will host 200 events across the arts – cabaret, film, theatre, opera, circus, and so on – for the ninth City of Perth Winter Arts Season.

Winter, perthwinterarts. visitperthcity.com

Top of the game

大卫·波尔（David Board）是铂 尔曼悉尼海港大酒店礼宾部的主管

A Concierge's Sydney

对于塔斯马尼亚州来说美食活动决不陌生，因为 来自南太平洋的新鲜农产品就近在咫尺。可是 没有一项能与摇篮山渡假小屋的Tastings at the Top相比。20年来，该度假村已举办各种活动来 展示当地美食和葡萄酒。

David Board, Chief Concierge at Pullman Quay Grand Sydney Harbour

Tasmania is no stranger to culinary events with fresh produce from the South Pacific on its doorstep, but none match Cradle Mountain Lodge's Tastings at the Top. For 20 years the resort has been hosting the event, showcasing local food and wine. From $1,398 for two nights. May 23-24, cradlemountainlodge.com.au

past doing the Harbour Bridge Climb, which takes

Must-see Sydney attractions? You can't go in all of the capital city's most iconic attractions.

bridgeclimb.com 悉尼必去景点…… 不能错过的是攀登海港大桥，您将会看到城中所有最具标 志性的景点。

Best to avoid... Being a prime tourist location you'll find generic souvenir shops in Sydney that are best overlooked. Try picking up something more memorable and unique from The Rocks Markets, held every Saturday. therocks.com/markets 最好避免……

don’t miss 不容错过

悉尼作为一个主要的旅游区，您会发现到处都是礼品店， 我建议您最好忽视这些商店而到每周六开放的岩石市场 （The Rocks Markets）挑选独一无二的纪念品吧。

Where to get the best photo... To truly capture the Australian feel, you have to get a snap on the Opera House steps. With Sydney Harbour in the background and the great white sails overhead, it doesn't get much better. 那里能拍摄到最漂亮的照片？ 要真正抓住澳大利亚的感觉，你必须取景于歌剧院的阶梯 上。以悉尼海港为背景，还有悬在空中的白色大帆，没有别 的比这个图片架构来得更好。

After something new... Sydney has seen an explosion of cool bars that offer everything from cocktails in jam jars to innovative menus. Bulletin Place, around the corner from our hotel, is one of the best. bulletinplace.com 创新之后……

百万之间 One in a million

悉尼爆发的酒吧热潮，一众出色的酒吧提供各色各样的选 择，包括装在果酱瓶的鸡尾酒和创新的菜单。而在我们酒 店的街角处的Bulletin Place酒吧是其中的佼佼者。

一百万棵牡丹花将在洛阳牡丹节的主要景点洛阳国家牡丹园中展出。这是中国其中一个最古老的花园，

An unusual souvenir... You can buy your

其中有一棵著名的三米高，1600岁的“牡丹王”树。4月28日—5月3日。

own “virtual tile” of one of the sails of the Sydney

Over a million peony trees will flower at the Luoyang Peony Fair's main attraction, the Luoyang National Peony Garden. One of the oldest Chinese gardens to grow the flower, it is most famous for its 1,600-year-old, threemetre-high 'peony king' tree. April 28 – May 3.

Opera House and upload your image to it as part of the ‘Own Our House’ campaign.

ownourhouse.com.au 不一样的纪念品…… 参加“共同拥有歌剧院”活动，购买歌剧院最高风帆上的 虚拟瓷砖，然后上载您的照片，就能拥有独特且具纪念价 值的纪念品。

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hot property

beijing

Waldorf Astoria With its Shanghai sister becoming a frequented spot for travellers who enjoy an opulent set-up, Waldorf Astoria’s second instalment in Beijing is sure to attract the well-to-do crowd. Recently opened, the 176-key hotel is handily located downtown next to high-end shopping district Wang Fu Jing. waldorfastoria3.hilton.com

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Club house

If you’re a whisky lover, you want to be a member of Beijing’s Johnnie Walker House. Only 200 VIP patrons have access to private sections of the House, members-only whisky vaults, special signature blends and private “whisky-inspired” dining from the in-house chef. Ch’ien Men 23, johnniewalker.com.cn

Nature's course Never expect to eat the same meal twice at CHI. Changing daily to suit what’s fresh at the local markets, this hutong restaurant’s set menu of seven creative dishes could feature pork one day and octopus the next. A daring concept for Beijing, this effortlessly cool, all-organic restaurant works – and well.

67 Wudaoying Alley

岁月如金。 万宝龙明星系列经典自动腕表。一枚拥有超薄外形的杰出腕表： 独特、纯粹、简约。39毫米玫瑰金表壳与精致表扣，贴合人体手腕的弧形表背，

42小时动力存储，银色表盘，镀玫瑰金叶形指针与刻度，蓝宝石水晶表盖。18K玫瑰 金珍珠母贝表冠，呈现万宝龙星形标识，棕色鳄鱼皮表带。 万宝龙·总有非凡故事

SYDNEY 75 CASTLEREAGH STREET - 115 KING STREET | MELBOURNE 175 COLLINS STREET B R I S B A N E 1 7 1 E D WA R D S T R E E T | P E RT H 1 2 5 S T G E O R G E S T E R R A C E W W W. M O N T B L A N C . C O M | 1 3 0 0 3 6 4 8 1 0

shanghai 26

French Affair Shanghai’s K11 Art Mall will host China's first ever exhibition of the Master of Impressionism, Claude Monet.

The iconic Water Lily painting will be among the 40 original Monet artworks exhibited from March 8 – June 15. k11concepts.com/en

Just for kicks Off the beaten track, Newman Tours has added the Shanghai Kung Fu tour to its schedule for 2014. Learn about the origins of Chinese martial arts and try some ancient training techniques. Held daily, newmantours.com

hot hotel

Water world Forget gleaming, sky-high towers; you'll find China's latest $638-million luxury hotel deep within the recesses of an abandoned quarry. The first of its kind, the Intercontinental Shimao Shanghai Wonderland resort will be built 100 metres deep, at the base of Tianmenshan Mountain, with two of its 19 storeys below sea level.

The submerged levels will boast an aquarium and restaurant. With all the bells and whistles of a five-star hotel included – indoor pool, sports centre, several eateries – we doubt you'll run out of ways to entertain yourself, but feel free to take some down time and enjoy the view of the 100-metre waterfall from your room. Opening 2015, intercontinental.com

mix it up

A Shanghai cocktail consists of 1/2 teaspoon of grenadine syrup, the juice of 1/4 lemons, 30 millilitres of Jamaican dark rum and one teaspoon of anisette, all served over ice.

SY D N E Y Te l : 02 9 2 3 3 1 3 5 5

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essential

Xi’an

3

Textile town

In the east of Xi'an, you'll find what was once the hub of Xi'an's fabric industry, but while many of the factories have long since closed, the spaces have been taken up by contemporary artists, breathing vibrant life back into the area.

x i’a n

...in eight stops

Heading for the ancient Chinese capital of Xi’an?

Here’s what not to miss, from Terracotta Warriors to Tang Dynasty pagodas

4

A ncient City Wall

Built in the Ming Dynasty, city walls don't come any more impressive than Xi'an's. Fourteen kilometres of 18-metre thick, 12-metre high brickwork has protected the locals since the 1300s. From the south gate you can hire bikes to cycle along the top of it.

28

2

Muslim Quarter

As a result of Xi'an's former life as the start of the famous Silk Road, the city is home to a thriving Muslim community. In the Muslim quarter you'll be transported to the Middle East with mosques around every corner and the sights and smells of spicy food, including some interesting Chinese/Muslim fusions. Try some yangrou paomo – pita bread in mutton stew.

1

Terracotta Warriors

More than 8,000 life-sized Terracotta Warriors, chariots and horses have been unearthed at the Mausoleum of Emperor Qin Shihuang on the outskirts of the city. Intriguingly, that remains only a fraction of what still lies beneath. The underground army is one of the great man-made wonders of the world.

5

Shaanxi History Museum

8

Big Wild Goose Pagoda

The rich history of Xi'an and indeed the wider Shaanxi province is put together in this phenomenal museum, telling its many tales with more than 370,000 relics from imperial jade seals to bronze chariots.

One thing Xi'an isn't short of is pagodas, and the Big Wild Goose Pagoda in Great Ci'en Temple is a must-see. Dating back to 652AD, this 210-foot, seven-storey Buddhist pagoda was once home to sutras and figurines brought to China from India.

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Jiaozi banquet

Coming in every shape, colour and size, with numerous flavour combinations, a jiaozi (stuffed dumpling) banquet accompanied with a Tang Dynasty Show is part and parcel of every stay in Xi'an.

6

B ell and Drum Towers

With the bell sounding at sunrise and the drum beating at sunset, these two towers provide the soundtrack to Xi'an. Facing each other across the Zhonggulou Square in the city's centre, they date back to the Hongwu Period (1368-1398).

For more information on Xi'an tours visit either cbtholidays.com.au or wendywutours.com.au

special event

melbourne

爵士乐音乐节 a l l t h at j a z z 墨尔本国际爵士乐节让墨尔本的冬季充满了无限 生机，墨尔本的大街小巷将变成露天音乐会，赶快 拿出您的舞鞋作准备和暖身吧。世界现代爵士乐 大师如Chick Corea、Gary Burton和Robert Davi 将在一些最具标志性的维多利亚场地演出。冬至期 间，melbournejazz.com Get your dancing shoes ready and warm up over the winter – the streets of Melbourne will turn into an open-air concert when the Melbourne International Jazz Festival hosts events across the city. The world's modern masters of jazz – Chick Corea, Gary Burton and Robert Davi – will perform at some of the most iconic Victorian venues. Mid-winter, melbournejazz.com

刽子手夜游团 什么样的故事会有一个刽子手做 您监狱的向导，告诉您他是绳索的 控制人？参加墨尔本旧监狱（Old Melbourne Gaol）的刽子手夜游团 （Hangman's Night Tour）来找出 答案吧。

Hang time

What stories would a hangman tell you if he was guiding you around the gaol where he was controller of the rope? Book the Hangman’s Night Tour at the Old Melbourne Gaol and find out...

oldmelbournegaol.com.au

甜点艺术 The art of dessert 当它看起来太漂亮……

When it looks too good to eat...

Dandelion

Maha

Circa

结合了法式甜点技术与越南街头小吃，在 Dandelion餐厅能品尝到的餐后甜点如同 艺术杰作。必试：脆炸黑芝麻冰淇淋与焦糖 无花果。

神秘的声音、颜色与香味，Maha餐厅致力重 根、薄荷脆冰淇淋，玫瑰水沙冰。

Circa餐厅墙壁上具有特色的艺术作品和菜 单上奢华的甜点，提供的这一切不止是为了 取悦味蕾，还有视觉上的享受。必试：草莓 和奶油与玫瑰天竺葵。

Combine French dessert technique with Vietnamese street snacks and you get the after-dinner masterpieces at Dandelion.

Must-try: Deep fried black sesame ice cream with caramelised figs.

133 Ormond Road, dandelion.ws

Mystic sounds, colours and aromas – Maha is all about recreating the diverse cuisine and culture of the Middle East. Must-try: Watermelon and beetroot, peppermint crisp ice cream with rosewater ice.

21 Bond Street, maharestaurant.com.au

Circa aims not just to delight the palate but the eye too, featuring artworks on the walls and extravagant desserts on the menu. Must-try: Strawberries and cream with rose geranium.

2 Acland Street, circa.com.au

现中东的各种美食和文化。必试：西瓜和甜菜

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don’t miss 不容错过

Gourmet burgers

sydney

Fancy meets fast food...

The Burger Shed 这家半外带、半堂食的餐厅不仅有明星总厨贾斯汀· 诺思（Justin North），吸引一众饕客的还有安格斯 及和牛汉堡，以及跟些许波本威士忌摇匀的焦糖奶 油爆米花。莫斯曼区军事路914号。 Celebrity head chef Justin North isn't the only star at this part take-away, part sit-in restaurant. Aside from the Angus and wagyu beef burgers, the Caramel butter popcorn shake with a dash of bourbon draws in the crowds. 914 Military Road, Mosman burgershed.com.au

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古时故事 Blast from the past 跨越了几代的照片、珍贵的传家宝、真人故事， 《异乡》是一个有关悉尼华人故事的展览，展出早期悉 尼华人丰富多彩的生活。即日至10月12日。 With photographs, cherished family heirlooms, personal accounts and stories that span generations, Celestial City: Sydney's Chinese Story exhibition weaves a rich tapestry of the lives of Sydney’s early Chinese. Until October 12,

Moo Burger 看着菜单上20款美味的汉堡，是一件很难抉择的 事。倘若您特别饿可以选择豪华的Deluxe Moo 汉堡，一个双层汉堡挤满了所有您能想到的经典馅 料。新镇区国王街232号。 You'll have a hard time picking from the 20 gourmet burgers on the menu at this upscale joint, but if you're particularly hungry opt for Deluxe Moo – a doubledecker burger packed with all the classic fillings you can think of. 232 King Street, Newtown moogourmetburgers.com.au

sydneylivingmuseums.com.au

占据舞台 Taking the stage 万物的艺术大师、耀眼、魅力无穷、顶尖的知名澳 大利亚电影导演巴兹·雷曼（Baz Luhrmann）将 与他的经典之作《舞国英雄》和所有闪耀隆重的戏 服来到悉尼大剧场（Sydney Lyric Theatre）的舞 台上。即日至6月20日。 A maestro of all things glitzy, glamorous and over-the-top, exuberant film director Baz Luhrmann is bringing his Aussie cult classic Strictly Ballroom and all its gloriously outrageous costumes to the Sydney Lyric Theatre stage. Closing June 20, strictlyballroomthemusical.com

CHUR Burger CHUR汉堡屋提供芝麻汉堡面包，让您配着甜奶油一 起吃。菜单上有6款汉堡供选择，伴有许多种类的配 菜如腌虾和香酥鹌鹑蛋。萨利山区阿尔比恩街48号。 Sesame seed burger buns are traded for sweeter brioche ones at Surry Hills' CHUR Burger. There are a limited six burgers on the menu, with loads of sides such as pickled prawns and crispy quail eggs. 48 Albion Street, Surry Hills churburger.com.au

Endless

Summer

International Style, Uniquely Australian Linneys 珠宝设计师和工艺师采用顶级的西澳大利亚南洋 珍珠，稀有的粉红钻石及其它各式各样的彩色宝石手工制作 成美丽的首饰珍品。 Linneys 巧夺天工的工艺在今年的 Cote d’Azur 系列表现的淋漓尽致。 18K白金及玫瑰金，澳洲南洋珍珠和粉钻石耳环 18K白金和玫瑰金粉钻和白钻戒指 请到访我们位于悉尼商业中心的西田百货展厅， 欣赏我们永放光彩的独家收藏。 地址：Shop 3005/6 Level 3, Westfield Sydney Shopping Complex, Castlereagh Street. 如需进一步信息，欢迎联络。 (+61 2) 8246 9088 或 Linneyssydney@linneys.com.au

我们有会说中文的营业员为您服务。

guided tour

things to do

天鹅谷啤酒之旅 Swan Valley Brewery Tour 从古怪与无厘头的口味到强烈与苦涩的口味，让啤酒 专家马修·阿特伍德为您介绍西澳各种口味的啤酒 From the weird and wacky to the strong and bitter, let beer expert matthew attwood introduce you to the many flavours of Western Australia’s liquid gold

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Feral Brewing Company 一个家族经营的手工酿酒提供一般口味还有不 寻常口味的美味啤酒，他们的其中一款啤酒“西 瓜弹头” （Watermelon Warhead）注入了半 吨当地的天鹅谷瓜。A family-owned-andoperated hand-crafted microbrewery featuring the usual and deliciously unusual beers – their Watermelon Warhead is infused with half a tonne of local Swan Valley melons.

Ironbark Brewery 点一份柴烧披萨与一杯啤酒或苹果酒，在啤 酒园中享用一个慵懒的午餐。至于甜点可以 尝试一下味道比较甜的如芒果啤酒或樱桃麦 芽酒。Kick back with a beer or cider and wood-fired pizza for a lazy lunch in the beer garden. For dessert try something sweet like the Mango Beer or Cherry Ales.

Elmar's in the Valley 德籍老板艾玛（Elmar）和安妮特·迪 伦（Anette Dieren）使用他们家乡的仪器 和材料来制造一系列的精制啤酒。German owners Elmar and Anette Dieren use their home country's machinery and ingredients to create their range of fine beers.

Duckstein Brewery Duckstein的核心啤酒是根据德国传统的1516 啤酒纯度法来酿造，过程中只能使用水、麦芽 和啤酒花这三种材料。Duckstein's core beers are made through the German tradition of Reinheitsgebot – The Purity Law of 1516 – where only water, malt and hops are used to produce beer.

Mash Brewing 酒吧台后面是个1200公升的酿造系统，客人可 以坐着观看酿酒的过程。Customers can sit back and watch the brewers in action with the 1,200-litre brewing system set up behind the bar.

Top Gun Liquid Gold Brewery Tours operate weekly. $140 per person, topguntours.com.au

exhibition on now AT MuSEuM OF SYDNEY 悉尼博物馆 新展览开幕

29 March – 12 OctOber 2014 A new exhibition at the Museum of Sydney explores the pivotal role Sydney’s early Chinese community played in shaping modern Australia.

With archival photographs, stunning family heirlooms and personal stories, the exhibition celebrates almost two centuries of cultural diversity and the pioneering identities who paved the way for Sydney’s vibrant Chinese community today.

From forgotten Sydney icons of great beauty like the Chinese tearooms of the late 1800s to interviews with successful Chinese fashion designers and artists from Sydney’s community, Celestial City shines a spotlight on the rich history of one of Sydney’s most influential and respected communities.

A room brochure in Chinese is available.

《异乡》除了再現已被遺忘的悉尼之美，如19世紀末的中國 茶房，更訪問了悉尼知名的華人時裝設計師及藝術家，展示 出華人作為悉尼最具影響力及受尊重的群體之一，其豐富多 彩的歷史。 提供中文版本的展览小册子。 悉尼博物馆 每天开放 早上10时至下午5时 成人 $10澳币 儿童／特惠 $5澳币 家庭 $20澳币 位于悉尼菲利普街和大桥街拐角处，从环形码头出发步行两分钟 电话 02 9252 5988

#celestialSydney

MuseuM of sydney OPEN DAILY 10am–5pm Adults $10 Child/Concession $5 Family $20 Cnr Phillip & Bridge streets, Sydney 2 minutes walk from Circular Quay T 02 9252 5988

sydneylivingmuseums.com.au Historic Houses Trust of NSW

Portrait of Quong Tart, artist unknown, c1880s, State Library of NSW ML 1346

悉尼博物馆举办新展览，探索早期悉尼华人在塑造现代澳大 利亚時所扮演的角色。藉由档案照片、珍贵的传家宝和真人 故事，追溯過去近两百年間多元文化發展，以及早期華人的 身份如何為今天活躍的悉尼華人社群奠定了基礎。

48 hours in

48 hours

Ti a n j i n Mark Parren Taylor explores China’s sixth-largest metropolis 有些地区处处能看到老天津的影子，有些则为21世纪而改变 着。马克·裴伦·泰勒探索了中国第六大都会中的地区， 为我们呈上不同面貌中最棒的一面 Photography Mark Parren Taylor

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Day One

第一天 9am Jiefang Beilu – which runs through the former French and British Concession districts, from 1927’s Liberation Bridge through to the landmark Astor Hotel – is in many ways one long, open-air museum thanks to its Art Deco and Beaux-Arts-style banks and business headquarters. To go more in-depth, explore the Astor’s 150-year history in its basement museum.

早上9时 解放北路（贯穿前法国和英国租界区，从建 于1927年的解放桥开始到地标性建筑天津利 顺德大酒店）是一条露天长博物馆，充满艺

术氛围的装饰和富有美术派建筑风格的银行 建筑和集团总部。要更深入了解，可以到访 位于地下室的博物馆探索这家拥有将近150年 历史的饭店。

11am If Jiefang Beilu was the CBD for foreign powers, then Wudadao (‘Five Avenues’) district was their plushest suburb. Today hundreds of historical residences – from English mock-Tudor semis to romantic Spanish-style villas – line these leafy streets. The easiest way to view them is to take a horseand-cart ride; they wait for business outside the tourist information office (north side of Minyuan Stadium, Chongqing/Hunan Rds junction).

早上11时 倘若解放北路是外国列强的中心，那五大道 是他们的豪华区。今天，这里绿叶成荫的街 道旁汇聚着许多历史故居，建筑风貌多样包 括英式都铎式洋房和西班牙式浪漫风格别墅。 要一睹这些姿态万千的建筑最简单的方法是 坐上在游客咨询办公室前的马车（位于民园 体育场的北边，重庆/湖南路交界处）。

1.30pm For a taste of Wudadao life head to Chateau 35, a restaurant and bar occupying a 1930s Art Deco bungalow.

The menu is suitably international – think Hungarian goulash and Kentucky apple crumble – and its garden is lovely. Alternatively, YY Beer House is popular with expats for

48 hours (unsurprisingly) its beers and (perhaps a little unexpectedly) its tasty Thai food.

下午1时半 来到古堡三五西餐葡萄酒吧，一家充满1930 年代艺术气息的洋房内来品尝五大道的味道。 餐厅提供国际化的菜色比如匈牙利炖牛肉和肯 塔基苹果脆批，餐厅内还有宜人的花园。另 外，粤园餐厅的啤酒（预料之内）和美味的泰 国菜（或许有点感到意外）深受外国人青睐。

3pm Head north from Wudadao – stopping for a moment at the Tangshan Earthquake Monument that commemorates the 1976 catastrophe and its 250,000 victims – to retail-hub Binjiang Dao. It’s lined with boutiques, high-street brands and Quanyechuang, a grand dame of department stores that first opened its doors (and famously displayed its garments on real-life mannequins) in 1928. Not far away, Old Meihua Shoe Shop (190 Heping Rd) has been booting locals since 1911 – the same year that Shengxifu Hat Shop (cnr Shandong/Haerbin Rds) started putting trilbies, berets and even fur ushankas on their heads.

字号商场（而且以真人模特展示商品而闻名） 。在不远处就是老美华鞋店（和平路190号）， 始创于1911年为当地人服务。同年盛锡福帽 店（山东/哈尔滨路交口处）开始出售各种帽 子如毡帽、贝雷帽，甚至有皮草雷锋帽。

6pm Stop for a bite at Goubuli Dumpling Restaurant – its signature steamed meat dumplings are velvety and filling, and can be savoured at the restaurant up front, or in the self-service space behind.

Whichever you choose, you’ll be able to ponder over the root of its curious 150-year-old name, which translates as “Dog takes no notice!”

下午6时 在狗不理包子店品尝其招牌蒸肉饺子，肉馅 丰富香嫩多汁。可以在餐厅前或后面的自助 服务空间来品尝，但是不管您选择的是前或

后，都能思考一下“狗不理”这个拥有150年 历史有趣的名字的根源！

8pm Walk off the dumplings with a stroll to ‘Italian-style town’, pinpointed by Marco Polo Square and its elegant bronze statue of Winged Victory. The one-time Italian Concession’s casas and little palazzos are now a lively quarter of cafes, bars and shops. A glass of chianti or locally brewed German-style beer can be downed at the Bavarian Brauhaus or Venice Bar.

下午8时 离开饺子馆来到意大利风情旅游区，以马可 波罗广场和优雅的和平女神铜像为中心。曾 经是意大利租界生活、活动的建筑现今已被 改造成热闹的咖啡馆酒吧和商店。到巴伐利 亚啤酒坊或威尼斯酒吧能找到基安蒂葡萄酒 或当地酿造的德国风格啤酒。

下午3时 从五大道往北方出发，途中来到唐山抗震纪念 碑，这是为了纪念1976年发生的灾难和其25 万名遇难者。继而到达主要商业街滨江道。这 条大道商店林立、国际品牌店鳞次栉比，还有 于1928年开业的天津劝业场。一个著名的老

Modern architecture The 20th-century guangdong guild hall

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48 hours 38 Day two

第二天 8am

Start off your day by taking a leisurely stroll from Liberation Bridge north, along the Haihe Riverside Park. A little past neoclassical Bei’an Bridge the promenade turns into a popular spot for early morning tai chi and sword dancing against a backdrop of villas of the former Austro-Hungarian Concession (nowadays mistakenly entitled ‘Australian-style Town’!)

早上8时 从解放桥向北沿着海河河畔公园漫步来开始 新的一天。带点旧式新古典风格的北安桥上 的长廊成为了练太极和舞剑的好地方，以原 是奥匈租界的别墅为背景（现今被误名为“ 澳大利亚风情小镇”！）

9.30am

11.30pm

12.30pm

Ancient Culture Street is lined with boutiques, cafes and stores specialising in traditional Chinese arts such as cloisonné, ceramics and calligraphy. At its heart, the Mazu Temple (the Tianjinites call it the Heavenly Queen Palace) dates from the 1320s and offers a little spiritual respite from the crowds outside.

The sight of streethawkers griddling jianbing guozi – a savoury, stuffed pancake – proves to be ubiquitous on street corners across northern China, but Tianjin is this hearty and warming snack’s hometown.

Expect to pay about RMB4 or RMB5 – and try it the locals’ way, with some chilli lajiang and fried dough strip youtiao.

Take a 15-minute walk south-west and you will soon reach the Drum Tower, which stood at the centre of the walled city two centuries ago.

The tower may be a modern-day reproduction, but neighbouring Guangdong Guild Hall (admission will set you back RMB10) is a treasure of early 20th-century architecture. Its exquisite auditorium is the central exhibit of today’s Chinese Opera Museum.

早上9时半 天津古文化街汇集商店、咖啡馆和中国传统 工艺专卖店如景泰蓝，陶瓷和书法。在文化 街的中心是1320年代创建的妈祖庙（天津居 民称之为天后宫），为大众提供一个心灵上 能喘息的地方。

上午11时半 街头小吃煎饼果子是味道略咸的酿煎饼，在 中国北方街头随处可见。可是这个美味小吃 的家乡是天津。一个煎饼大概是人民币4-5块 钱，尝试以当地的方式与辣酱和油条一块吃。

下午12时半 向西南方步行15分钟来到鼓楼，是一座两个 世纪前已坐落在卫城中心的建筑，近代被重

Local landmark

48 hours

THE ASTOR HOTEL (LEFT) boasts 150 years of history

建。隔壁的天津广东会馆（入场费人民币10 块）是二十世纪早期的建筑珍宝。其精湛的 礼堂是当今天津戏曲博物馆的展览中心。

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的当地 美食包 括 耳 朵 眼 炸 糕 （ 第 一 区 1 6 号 店）和桂发祥麻花（第一区3号店）。

7pm 4.30pm Nanshi Food Street (a vast two-floor food court that resembles a Ming-era fortress) will answer any culinary craving you may have after a day’s roaming Tianjin. Must-try local favourites on offer include earhole fried rice cakes at Erduoyan (shop 16, area 1) and a fried plaited dough called guifaxiang mahua (shop 3, area 1).

For an evening panorama of the city head to the Tianjin Eye (Wuma Lu), a 120-metre-high Ferris wheel in a remarkable spot above a bridge crossing the Haihe river. The halfhour ride might give you enough time to identify some of the sights visited earlier, and to survey the vast modern metropolis beyond.

下午7时

坐在“天津之眼”上俯瞰这座城市的夜景， 下午4时半 “天津之眼”是一个位于海河河畔桥上高120 在漫游天津一整天后，南市食品街（一个类 米的巨型摩天轮。在摩天轮上30分钟的时间， 似于明朝时代的堡垒的两层楼巨大美食广场） 足以让您辨认出早前所参观的景点并且眺望 必定能满足您一切对事物的欲望。不可不试 这个广袤的现代化大都市。 ◆

Eat & sleep Eat 美食 Chateau 35 古堡三五西餐葡萄酒吧 opposite 79 Changde Dao, between Kunming Lu and Yunnan Lu 和平区常德道79号对面（云南路与昆明路之间） chateau35.com YY Beer House 粤园餐厅 3 Aomen Lu, behind Nanjing Lu’s International Building 澳门路3号，南京路国际大厦后面 Goubuli Dumpling 狗不理包子 Restaurant 77 Shandong Lu 山东路77号 Bavarian Brauhaus 巴伐利亚啤酒坊 41 Ziyou Dao自由道41号 Venice Bar 威尼斯酒吧 48 Ziyou Dao 自由道48号 Nanshi Food Street 南市食品街 Corner Shenyi Dajie/Rongye Dajie 慎益大街与荣业大街交汇处

Sleep 住宿 Astor Hotel 利顺德大酒店 from RMB750 per night 每晚人民币750元起 33 Taier Zhuang Road 台儿庄路33号 starwoodhotels.com Orange Hotel 桔子酒店天津北安橋店 from RMB220 per night 每晚人民币220元起 7 Xing’an Road 兴安路7号 orangehotel.com.cn (Chinese only), orange-tianjin.hotel.com.tw (agent)

viewpoint 40

新南威尔士 澳洲第一州 潘华 胡玫 外的整个澳大利亚大陆。19世纪开始，新南 威尔士被逐渐分为几个独立的殖民区，包括 塔斯马尼亚、维多利亚、昆士兰和南澳大利 亚。1901年1月1日由这些殖民区，连同西澳 大利亚组成了澳 大利亚联邦，澳 大利亚从此成为 英国王冠上一颗 闪亮的明珠。 新南威尔士号 称澳大利亚“第 一”州，不仅仅 她是澳洲历史上最悠久的州，同时也是澳洲 最大规模的州，她还拥有澳大利亚许多其它 的“第一”。诺福克岛的米莉湾海滩，被认 为是澳大利亚的第一片沙滩。1825年3月，第 一舰队首先到达这里，在这个无人小岛上建 造了劳改农场。1856年，皮特凯恩岛邦迪号 船员的后裔到这里定居，进一步开发了这个

“摩天大厦与古老的 船坞码头交相辉映， 风情各异”

Illustration:Anne Smith

当

你从神州大地乘坐客机往南飞越浩 瀚无边汹涌澎湃的南太平洋，掠过 昆士兰那充满魔幻色彩的大堡礁， 观看过珊瑚海弄潮儿的精彩刺激的冲浪表演， 领略了黄金海岸蜿蜒优美的海岸线之后，你会 发现你已置身于一个充满温暖阳光，新鲜空气 和蔚蓝天空，具有无穷乐趣的梦幻世界，这就 是澳洲第一州——新南威尔士州。 1770年4月，英国探险家詹姆斯·库克 船长和他率领的43名船员驾驶“奋进”号 首次在杰克逊港登陆。在那里，库克举行了 英国国旗升旗仪式，以英国国王乔治三世的 名义宣布这片土地属于英国，命名为新南威 尔士，这片土地于是成为英国在澳大利亚的 第一个殖民地，这是澳洲历史上最早被命名 的州。18年以后的1月26日，亚瑟·菲利普 率领第一舰队把英国囚犯送到新南威尔士， 开始了对澳大利亚的正式管理。当时的新南 威尔士包括了除西海岸（当时称新荷兰）以

如田园般的悠闲小岛，于是这片宁静的海滩 成为了岛上最佳的晒日光浴的场所。 著名的悉尼海港大桥被称为是世界第一 的单孔拱桥，是早期悉尼的代表建筑。整个 悉尼大桥桥身长度（包括引桥）1149米，从 海面到桥面高58.5米，从海面到桥顶高达134 米，万吨巨轮可以从桥下通过。悉尼大桥的 最大特点是拱架，其拱架跨度为503米，而且 是单孔拱形，这是世界上少见的。悉尼大桥 像一道横贯海湾的长虹，巍峨壮观，气势磅 礴，与举世闻名的悉尼歌剧院隔海相望，成 为悉尼的象征之一。 世界著名的悉尼市是新南威尔士州首府， 是澳洲历史最悠久的城市；被称为澳洲第一 城。悉尼市现代化的摩天大厦与古老的船坞 码头，交相辉映，风情各异。在悉尼不但有 举世闻名的经典建筑悉尼歌剧院也有南半球 最大的不夜城——帝王十字区。不论何时何 地，悉尼所特有的迷人魅力，都等待着您亲 往发掘和品味！ 新南威尔士是澳洲工商业，贸易，科技， 文化最发达最生气蓬勃的州，由于悉尼市天 然海港和交通环境的优势，新南威尔士州成 为全澳运输集散的基地，南太平洋航运海运 的枢纽。除了工业发达以外，新南威尔士州 的农业和畜牧业也相当先进。在南部的维法 连拿区，农作物以及水果的产量非常丰富， 被认为是澳洲最富庶和最蓬勃发展的农业区 之一。著名的猎人谷葡萄酒生产已经成为新 南威尔士州最主要的经济支柱产业之一。 澳大利亚第一株葡萄树1788年被栽植在悉 尼，1858年猎人谷的天瑞酒庄生产出了澳大 利亚第一批葡萄酒，其中的赛美蓉(Semillon) 葡萄酒享誉全球，自1962年以来，赛美蓉葡 萄酒获得了325个金奖，179个银奖和234个 铜奖。猎人谷黄尾袋鼠酒庄成立于1957年， 该酒庄出品的葡萄酒已经是世界销量第一的 的澳大利亚葡萄酒。 在新南威尔士州，无论是在风情独钟的悉 尼、苍翠繁茂又浪漫的 北部海岸，无边无际的 南部纯净海滩，还是在 神秘的内陆国家公园， 我们都可以尽情地呼吸 到那艺术之都强烈的文 化气息，享受世界顶级 的美酒佳肴，探索遍布 全州的艺术和古董店的魅力村庄，攀越金色 的悬崖峭壁、幽深的峡谷，蜿蜒的溪流。您 都可以尽享澳洲第一州的风姿，深深淘醉在 那如梦如幻的迷境中。（本文部分内容取自 于由胡玫、方腾在澳大利亚SBS国家民族广播 电台编播制作的系列节目《南方大陆—澳大 利亚》。）◆

邂逅珊瑚礁

Reef encou The world’s largest living organism, the complex ecosystem that is the Great Barrier Reef is Australia’s greatest natural treasure Words Trent van der Jagt & Constantina Pilatos

飞

往凯恩斯的东边往下看珊 瑚礁像马赛克瓷砖散落在 一席碧绿色的地毯上。螺 旋的珊瑚礁穿越星罗棋布 的岛屿、沙环礁及一望无际的蓝色海洋。 虽然到访大堡礁必定是在世界第一大 的水族馆潜水，可是只有在上空才能饱览 这个庞大的活生物体与感受其宽广度。海 洋生物学家及卡吕普索电影制作公司创办 人斯图尔特·艾尔兰（Stuart Ireland） 说：“世界上没有其他的生态系统能与之 比拟，其生物的多样性、颜色、丰富的海 洋生物以及规模都是无与伦比的。” 沿着昆士兰海岸伸延2,600公里以及涵 盖900多个岛屿和3,000个广袤的珊瑚礁， 是联合国教科文组织世界遗产也是世界天 然奇景的第七位。珊瑚礁跨越348,000平 方公里，是这个星球上最复杂的生态系 统，有鲨鱼、鲸鱼、海豚、海龟、4,000 多个品种的软体动物、无数的微型生物以 及1,800种鱼类以这里为家。 倘若您发现自己置身在一群鹦嘴鱼中 或是跟海豚近距离碰面千万不要感到惊 讶，因为一旦您在水里就代表着您是他们 的一分子。 虽然它是世界上最大的生态系统，这 个动态环境也受到环境的威胁。自然干扰 像龙卷风和珊瑚杀手棘冠海星不断在重塑 珊瑚礁，还有人类的污染损害其进化的过 程、过度捕捞和杀沙取翅。艾尔兰说：“ 大堡礁跟任何其他多样化的生态系统一 样，都在不断的增长和衰退。有些年它一 直增长和不断变化，有些年却被损害。它 需要充满激情和志同道合的人来保护它， 确保在未来仍然存在。”数百万年来的海 洋波动和大气条件把珊瑚礁拆毁又重建。 多年来已看到许多的变化，可是不知道它 还能不能轻易地从人为破坏中恢复过来。 在这里，水肺潜水是许多活跃分子第 一件做的事，可是潜水就像一种诱导性

barrier reef

nter

世界上最大的活生物体 和拥有最复杂的生态系 统，大堡礁岛是澳大利 亚最巨大非凡的天然宝 库⋯⋯

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lying east of Cairns, the reefs below look like mosaic tiles scattered over an aquamarine rug.

Trails of spiralling coral reefs carve their way through a jigsaw of islands, sandy atolls and endless blue water.

And all this before the main outer reef even comes into view. “There’s no other ecosystem in the world quite like the Great Barrier Reef,” says Stuart Ireland, marine biologist and founder of Calypso Film Productions. “The biodiversity, colours, abundance of marine life and sheer scale are unsurpassed.”

Extending 2,600km along the Queensland coast and encompassing over 900 islands and 3,000 vast coral reefs, this UNESCO World Heritage marine paradise easily earns its place among the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.

While a scenic flight over the reef conveys its scale, a swim beneath the glassy surface reveals an entirely new world. Spanning 348,000km², the reef is home to the most complicated ecosystem on the planet, with sharks, whales, dolphins, green turtles, 4,000 varieties of molluscs, innumerable miniature organisms and more then 1,800 species of fish calling it home. Don’t be surprised to find yourself caught in a parade of parrotfish or face to face with a snubfin dolphin. Once in the water, you’re just another one of them.

Of course, life down there couldn’t survive without the coral backbone and evolving landscape of the ocean floor. From staghorn branches and water-smoothed shelves to masses of leathery boulders teeming with life, anything that can’t attach to something nearby is thrown around by each ebbing ocean swell.

Although it’s the largest ecosystem in the world, this dynamic environment has its own share of turmoil. Natural disturbances like cyclones and coral-killing crown-of-thorns

starfish are constantly reshaping the reef, while humans harm its evolutionary process through pollution, over-fishing and shark finning. “The reef, like any diverse ecosystem, is in constant growth and decline. Some years it’s growing and evolving, while others it’s being harmed. It’s up to passionate and like-minded people to protect it and make sure it’s still here in the future,” says Ireland. Millions of years of fluctuating ocean and atmospheric conditions have broken down the reef and built it back. It’s unknown how easily it can bounce back from man-made destruction.

With a multitude of places and opportunities to dive into a reef adventure, there’s no one way to experience everything the reef has on offer. Since dive sites are as common as fishand-chip shops in Queensland, scuba is most go-getters’ first port of call, but diving is only a gateway drug to the rest of the reef. Scenic flights, sailing boats and eco cruises are the picks of the litter, and once you’ve tried one it’s only a matter of time before the rest follow.

Drop a pin anywhere on the Queensland coast and you’ll land within reach of a dive site or two.

If you want to play it safe, Cairns is the main launching pad for the reef, with scuba stores and tour companies on every corner. If luxury and style is your thing, head north to the resort town of Port Douglas, home to a multitude of highend options for delving into the ocean. South of Cairns you’ll find the more basic but equally spectacular towns of Airlie Beach, gateway to the Whitsunday Islands, and Townsville, the go-to site for serious divers and adventurers.

While the reef is Australia’s supermodel, the pin-ups clawing for your attention are the island resorts themselves – and you’re spoilt for choice. Views, secluded bays, food and hectares of rainforests – these are the deserted islands you fall asleep thinking about at night.

毒品来引诱您继续探索其 他部分的珊瑚礁。除了潜 水以外，观光飞行、帆船 及生态游船是进一步探索 珊瑚的最佳之选。艾尔兰 说：“要体验大堡礁不一 定需要潜水，甚至不需要 弄湿双脚。当然浮潜和水 肺潜水是不能错过的，可 是还有很多其它的选择， 包括浮桥和玻璃底观光船 定会让您一饱眼福。” 大堡礁覆盖如此多 的地（海），您该如何 选择目的地呢？凯恩斯 （Cairns）无疑是体验大 堡礁的主要地区，市内充 满提供水肺潜水和体验 之旅的门店。倘若豪华和 时尚是您的风格，向北走 到度假小镇道格拉斯港 （Port Douglas），那里 有许多探索海洋的奢华选 择。而在凯恩斯的南边 能找到比较朴素却同样壮 观的艾尔利海滩（Airlie Beach）小镇、是通往圣 灵群岛（Whitsunday）和 汤斯维尔（Townsville）的 门槛，一众热爱潜水和冒 险家的胜地。 珊瑚礁绝对是澳大利亚 极其漂亮的天然奇景，还 有岛上旅馆。当涉及到在 大堡礁上的豪华生活，琳 琅满目的选择让您爱不释 手。美景、隐蔽的海湾、 美食、热带雨林，这都是 您在荒岛上晚上入睡时所 思想的一切。

Un d e r w at e r w o r l d

barrier reef

The Great barrier reef is home to some of the world’S most remarkable marine life

45

The reef by the numbers 大堡礁数据库

2 million people visit the Great Barrier Reef each year

百万人每年到访大堡礁

2,600 kilometres, the distance the reef spans along Australia’s east coast

公里，是大堡礁沿着澳大利亚东 海岸横跨的长度

900 islands situated along the reef, most uninhabited, some with luxury resorts

个位于大堡礁的岛屿，大多数是 无人居住，有的是豪华度假村

7,300 different species call the reef home, including fish, mammals, birds and coral

不同的生物品种以此为家，包括 鱼类、哺乳动物、鸟类以及珊瑚

“跨越348,000平方公 里⋯⋯4,000多种软体动 物、无数的微型生物以 及1,800种鱼类”

潜进海国…… 斯图尔特·艾尔兰（Stuart Ireland）花了超过25年的时间 探究大堡礁，研究、保护以及拍摄数以百计的珊瑚礁和潜水 地点。在这里跟我们分享他最喜爱的前十名绝佳潜水胜地

Just d ive i n Stuart Irel and has spent over 25 years combing the Great Barrier Reef. He runs us

Photos by Calypso Productions

through his top 10 dive sites...

Green and Fitzroy Islands Depth: 0-15m Visibility: 5-20m Location: Cairns 深度: 0-15m 能见度: 5-20m 位置: Cairns 凯恩斯

barrier reef

These two islands are both under one hour from Cairns and have spectacular reefs that are perfect for snorkelling. Coral gardens filled with giant clams, tropical fish and the chance of spotting a turtle make this a great all-round family pleaser.

Under both islands’ jetties lie a multitude of small schooling fish, lionfish and even the occasional harmless reef shark. 从凯恩斯出发到达这两个岛屿只需一小时内，并有壮观的 岸礁非常适合浮潜。珊瑚园充满了软珊瑚、巨蛤、热带鱼 以及有机会看到斑点龟，使之成为能取悦整个家庭的好去 处。在这两个岛屿的码头下有许多小型鱼群、狮子鱼，偶 尔还有一些没有杀伤力的礁鲨。

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Whitsunday Islands Depth: 0-25m Visibility: 5-20m Location: Airlie Beach 深度: 0-25m 能见度: 5-20m 位置: Airlie Beach艾尔利海滩

Cod Hole

Yongala Wreck

Depth: 0-20m Visibility: 12-40m Location: Lizard Island 深度: 0-20m 能见度: 12-40m 位置: Lizard Island 蜥蜴岛

Depth: 15-35m Visibility: 10-30m Location: Ayr 深度: 15-35m 能见度: 10-30m 位置: Ayr 埃尔

Famous among divers, Cod Hole is home to the distinctive giant potato cod. Getting up close with these gentle giants or the ever-present colourful Maori wrasse is reason enough to strap on the goggles. Here you’ll also find Shark Alley, where you can spot whitetip reef sharks dozing among schools of smaller fish.

Sinking in 1911, the Yongala created one of Australia’s most intriguing maritime mysteries. Today, you’ll find only coral and marine life onboard.

Once you’ve combed the ship for booty it’s time to whip out your fish-spotting checklist. Rays, bull sharks, giant gropers, sea snakes, turtles, schooling trevally, mackerel, Maori wrasse… the list goes on.

The cruising capital of the reef. These gorgeous inshore islands possess fringing reefs with too many dive sites to see in one trip. Each of the 74 islands offers something unique, but once you’ve done a few, perhaps it’s time to indulge a little.

Diving the Whitsundays is about relaxing, cruising under sail to secluded bays and exploring the reef at your own pace.

Heron and Lady Elliot Islands Depth: 0-30m Visibility: 15-30m Location: Gladstone 深度: 0-30m 能见度: 15-30m 位置: Gladstone格拉德斯通

These natural wonders are born from the ocean and built up by compacted coral rubble, now colonised with thousands of nesting seabirds and towering forests. Hiking, snorkelling and relaxing are reason enough to visit, but come at the right time of year and you may spot just-hatched sea turtles making a victorious venture towards the water.

大堡礁的游弋之都。这些迷人 的近海岛屿有着岸礁与许多潜

这些自然奇观是从海洋诞生，

水胜地，一次旅行不足以让您

并由密集的珊瑚碎石而成。现

探索全部。74座岛屿每一个也

在因为成千上万的海鸟巢而拓

受一众潜水者欢迎的鳕鱼洞是硕大的土豆鳕鱼

永伽拉号于 1911 年沉没，创造了澳大利亚最

提供独特的体验，一旦您体验

殖、还有高耸的森林及被珊瑚

聚居的地方。能真实近距离地感受一下此处成

耐人寻味的海洋的奥秘之一。今天，在船上您

了几个，是时候放纵自己一点

礁环绕的蔚蓝色沙泻湖包围

片硕大而友善的土豆鳕鱼或是色彩斑斓的毛利

只会发现珊瑚和海洋生物。搜遍船舶寻找战利

点，在圣灵群岛潜水体验轻松

着。这里有足够的理由让您到

濑鱼，一定会让人戴上潜水镜往水里跳。这里

品后，是时候掏出您的赏鱼清单，鳐鱼、公

自在的旅程，启航到僻静的海

访，但选对时间很重要，不然

还有鲨鱼谷（Shark Alley），能看到白鳍礁鲨

牛鲨、巨型石斑、海蛇、海龟，还有鲹鱼、鲭

湾，根据自己的步伐来探索美

可能只看到刚孵出的海龟在水

在较小的鱼群中打瞌睡。

鱼、毛利濑鱼……不胜枚举。

丽的珊瑚礁。

中努力地探索着。

Hastings and Saxon reefs Depth: 0-30m Visibility: 10-20m Location: Cairns 深度: 0-30m 能见度: 10-20m 位置: Cairns凯恩斯

barrier reef

These mid-shelf reefs are easily accessed in all weather conditions and at all times of the year. This is your typical, tick-all-the-boxes site. Swim side-by-side with green turtles, spot clownfish poking their heads out from the coral and discover giant clams in the coral gardens (just don’t expect to find any giant pearls). 在各种气候及全年均能轻松地探索这些位于中部礁脉区域的珊 瑚礁。这是一个典型而且齐备一切的潜水地点。跟绿海龟并肩游 泳、看见小丑鱼从珊瑚之间探出头来以及在珊瑚园中发现的巨蛤 （只是不要指望找到任何巨型珍珠）。

Scuba doo!

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For more info on Stuart Ireland and Calypso Productions, visit calypsoproductions.com.au.

Underwater camera hire is available for bookings from the website or at the Reef Fleet Terminal in Cairns.

Milne and Flynn reefs Depth: 0-30m Visibility: 15-30m Location: Cairns 深度: 0-30m 能见度: 15-30m. 位置: Cairns 凯恩斯

Visiting Cairns, you’ll never run out of new reefs to get in the thick of. These particular selections are located on the outer rim and offer almost too many great sites to list. Schooling sweetlip, trevally, barracuda and multitudes of other fish species inhabit pristine coral gardens, coral swim-throughs and bomboras. 到访凯恩斯，您永远不会缺乏让人兴奋的新珊瑚礁。这些礁石位

Steve’s Bommie

Lighthouse Bommie

Depth: 0-30m Visibility: 10-20m Location: Ribbon Reef 深度: 0-30m 能见度: 10-20m 位置: Ribbon Reef 带礁

Depth: 5-25m Visibility: 30m Location: Ribbon Reef 深度: 5-25m 能见度: 30m 位置: Ribbon Reef 带礁

类在这个纯净珊瑚花园栖息，包括细鳞、鲹鱼、梭鱼等穿梭珊瑚

A coral bombora (shallow wave formations) that has captivated divers for years for its wealth of fish and coral species. If you’d rather don a snorkel mask than a scuba tank, this site’s shallow depth and army of fish is ideal for snorkellers, as well as for night and photographic dives. You can easily spot everything from scorpion fish to lionfish and stonefish, with schools of prowling barracuda and trevally also stopping by.

North Horn

这一座珊瑚孤峰（浅波形成）长年以其丰富的鱼

形状像一座灯塔、垂直的珊瑚提供非常高的能

类和珊瑚物种吸引了许多潜水者拜访。如果您宁

见度及种类繁多的海洋生物。蓝线笛鲷、细鳞

柳珊瑚的聚居点及世界上一些最壮观的软珊瑚峭壁位居这里，如

愿戴上潜水面镜而不是潜水铝樽，这里水深比较

鱼、梭鱼和鲭鲨在这里也是司空见惯的，是小

果环境恰到好处，您可看到它们在水流中摇曳摆动，美丽动人。

浅以及成群结队的鱼群非常适合浮潜或夜间和摄

须鲸的出现吸引一众潜水热爱者到访。也因为

但鲨鱼才是真正让您跳到水里的原因。鱼鹰礁是备受欢迎的鲨鱼

影潜水。蝎子鱼、狮子鱼、石头鱼随处易见，偶

晶莹剔透的能见度使这里成为拍摄海蛇和绿海

喂食点，吸引了灰礁鲨、白鳍鲨和白边真鲨。幸运的您或许能看

尔还会出现潜行梭鱼和鲹鱼。

龟的极佳位置。

见蝠鲼、双髻鲨，甚至跟深海银鳍鲸侧身而过。

This vertical tower of coral shaped like a lighthouse offers perfect visibility and a huge variety of marine life. Schools of blueline snapper, sweetlip, barracuda and shark mackerel are all commonplace, but it’s the minke whale encounters that bring the die-hard divers. Due to its crystal-clear visibility it’s also a prime location to get great snaps of sea snakes and green turtles.

于凯恩斯的外缘，并提供许多非常棒的潜水点。汇聚各式各样鱼 和暗礁水域之间。

Depth: 0-40m+ Visibility: 40m Location: Osprey Reef 深度: 0-40m+ 能见度: 40m 位置: Osprey Reef 鱼鹰礁

Huge Gorgonian fans and some of the world’s largest soft corals adorn vertical walls that sway beautifully in the currents if the conditions are just right. But the real reason for getting your toes wet here are the sharks.

Osprey reef is home to one of the best shark feeding sites, attracting grey reef sharks, whitetip sharks and silvertip sharks. If you’re lucky, you may also spot manta rays and hammerheads, or even have the opportunity to sidle up next to some whale sharks.

R e e f e s c ap e

barrier reef

Lizard island (top of shot) is a tranquil reef paradise

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岛屿 匆匆的一趟珊瑚礁之旅，不如在众多的岛屿上挑选一座来逗留， 好好享受一番。这里为您介绍我们最喜欢的五个岛屿……

T he isl a nd s

R ather th a n j us t m a k e a day t ri p o f the r eef, w h y n ot s tay o n o n e o f the i s l a n d s d ott ed a r o un d a n d a m o n g it ? her E a r e o u r favo u rit e fi v e...

Lizard Island There are only 40 suites dotting the sand, just metres away from water’s edge, on Lizard Island.

To ensure its promise of tranquility is kept, visits are restricted to those lucky few staying on the island. But while Lizard Island may be exclusive it is far from your brash, generic luxury resort.

Instead, its accommodations are understated and intimate. It’s the kind of place where you’ll find hammocks hanging on the balconies of most rooms. Alongside the Great Barrier Reef, snorkellers are rewarded with little effort. Just metres from the shore you can spot tropical fish, clams and a rainbow of coral gardens.

For a more up-close marine-life experience try diving the island’s Cod Hole, where you’ll swim alongside big-lipped potato cod fish. 在蜥蜴岛上只有40间离水边仅有几米远的套房，为了保 证保持宁静的承诺，游客只限于那些住在岛上的少数幸运 儿。虽然蜥蜴岛如此限量却有别一般高调奢华的旅馆。它 的客房低调而温馨，在大部分房间的阳台能找到吊床。浮 潜者在大堡礁的边缘不需多花费力气便能享受成果，距离 岸边几米便能一睹热带鱼、蛤及美丽珊瑚园的彩虹颜色。 想要更近距离的体验海洋生活可以到岛上的鳕鱼洞（Cod Hole）潜水，在那里你会跟大唇土豆鳕鱼一起游泳。 From $1,235 per night 每晚$1,235起 lizardisland.com.au

Hayman Island

barrier reef

The cast of Modern Family are the latest to join the panoply of A-List celebrities that have stayed on Hayman Island. With its seemingly endless stretches of beaches and gloriously green rainforests it’s no wonder this northern Whitsunday Island has become a hot-spot for the rich and famous. As high-profile guests frequently visit, it’s only fitting that you’ll find world-renowned luxury hotel brand One&Only manning the island’s single resort. They are masters of opulent experiences and the resort oozes extravagance. Treat yourself to a full-body massage on a floating bed in the ocean, revel in a six-course dinner in the Main Kitchen or take a scenic seaplane tour over the surrounding islets including Heart Reef, a small collection of coral naturally shaped like a love heart.

《摩登家庭》的剧组人员最近也加入了曾住在海曼岛的一 线明星的队伍。凭借其看似无尽的绵延沙滩以及耀眼的绿 色热带雨林，难怪这个北圣灵群岛已经成为富人和名人到 访的热点。世界知名的豪华酒店品牌One＆Only是岛上 唯一的度假酒店。在大海中的浮动床上来个全身按摩来奖 励一下自己，再往Main Kitchen餐厅享用六道菜的晚餐， 或是乘坐观光水上飞机游览周边小岛包括心型礁——一个 集合珊瑚的天然小心型珊瑚礁。

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From $548 per night 每晚$548起 hayman.oneandonlyresorts.com

Green Island Part tropical rainforest, part beach, Green Island Resort is one of the most eco-sensitive developments in the world. Made up of 46 suites nestled amid lush rainforest and secluded from day visitors, it carefully balances the needs of guests and the protection of the World Heritage environment. The island’s pristine environment allows guests to truly enjoy its natural wonders. A few steps off the beach and you’re swimming with turtles, small reef sharks, and schools of brightly coloured fish. Green turtles are frequent visitors as they nest and lay up to 100 eggs at a time at the site. If you opt for a stroll on the beach at night you’ll have to watch where you step, as the small nests can barely be seen. Get your timing right, however, and you may be able to catch the thumb-sized baby turtles hatch before making their way down the sandy shore and into the ocean.

部分是热带雨林，部分是海滩，绿岛度假酒店是全球对生态最敏感的发展项目之 一。46间客房坐落在热带雨林之中，与日间的访客隔离，细心地平衡了客人的需求和保 护世界遗产的环境。岛上纯朴的环境让客人真正享受其自然奇观。几步路便能到达海 边，与海龟、小礁鲨以及色彩鲜艳的鱼群一起畅游。绿海龟是海滩的常客，在巢里产 蛋一次能多达100只。所以晚上到海滩散步时必须要小心，因为小巢都不容易被看见， 一不留神便会踏在海龟的巢上。选对了时间，您还可以碰上海龟蛋孵化，看到拇指般大 小的龟宝宝沿着海岸的沙路一路下滑进入海中。 From $650 per night 每晚$650起 greenislandresort.com.au

Lady Elliot Island A true eco-conscious resort, Lady Elliot Island shuns the idea of in-room mod cons, preferring to treat visitors to guided reef walking, snorkelling, diving, fish feeding and bird watching tours.

It lies within the Marine National Park ‘Green Zone’ and hence forms part of Australia’s World Heritage Listed area.

There are over 1,200 marine species alone, and thanks to its unspoiled location on the outer edge of the continental shelf the crayon blue waters are the closest you’ll get to crystal clear.

You can see 20 metres below sea level simply by standing on a rock.

一个真正充满环保意识的度假胜地，埃里奥 特夫人岛提供备有导游的礁石散步、浮潜、 潜水、喂鱼和观鸟之旅。南部的圣灵岛位 于海洋国家公园“绿区”内，因此成为了 澳大利亚其中一个世界遗产区。当中有超 过1200种海洋生物，并且因为其位于大陆 架的外缘而未受污染，接近透明的蔚蓝色 海水能清晰地看见海平面20米以下的一切。 From $230 per night 每晚$230起 ladyelliot.com.au

Hamilton Island Set on Hamilton Island's secluded northernmost tip, qualia resort creates an unparalleled setting by mixing natural timbers and infinity pools with stunning panoramic views of the Coral Sea. For an ultra-luxe experience, take the keys to the Beach House. With its own guest quarters, entertainment areas and 12-metre pool, you won’t want (or need) to leave. If you’re up to venturing out, the island prides itself on its array of fine-dining restaurants. Seafood – from scallops to king salmon – are the stars of Bommie Restaurant’s Modern Australian menu, while coca chu takes its inspiration from South East Asia with over six types of exotic curries. Both are just a short buggy ride from qualia – cars are replaced with electrical buggies on the island, a cleaner mode of transport – and are just steps away from Catseye Beach.

坐落在哈密尔顿岛幽静的最北端，澳大利 亚豪华度假酒店qualia混合自然木材与拥 有令人惊叹的珊瑚海全景的无边泳池，制 造了一个无与伦比的官感享受。海滩小 屋（Beach House）提供极度奢华的体 验，设有专属的宾客旅馆、娱乐区以及 12米长的游泳池，必会让您不愿意或不需 要离开。岛上有一系列它们引而为傲、精 致的餐厅，如Bommie餐厅为您提供现代 澳大利亚菜色，他们家的海鲜不管是扇贝 还是国王鲑鱼也有一流的水准。而Coca Chu餐厅的灵感来自东南亚，提供六种不 同类型的异国咖喱。两家餐厅离猫眼海滩 （Catseye Beach）很近，而且跟豪华度 假酒店qualia只需要一段很短的车程，在 这里驾车以比较清新、贴近大自然的电动 越野车取代了一般的车子。 From $975 per night 每晚$975起 qualia.com.au

Old meets new

beijing

lama temple (pictured) is a short stroll from thoroughly modern Wudaoying Hutong

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Explore the maze of hutongs in Beijing and you’ll find diverse cultures, a wealth of history and a splash of Western style, as Mark Parren Taylor finds out Photography Mark Parren Taylor

I

t’s a pulse-thumping hike to the top of Beijing’s Drum Tower. The stone steps are shiny and breathtakingly steep.

For centuries they were climbed only by imperial timekeepers – who probably took each tread with clockwork care.

The 47-metre-high tower has been around since 1420, and for almost 500 years it and the neighbouring Bell Tower marked time for the Ming- and Qing-Dynasty capital. During those eras a day had 12 shichen (‘large hours’), and the city folks’ daily round was dictated by them. For that half-a-millennium the tower must have trembled every 120 minutes as its 24 hefty drums beat the time signal.

Even though just one of the old 1.5-metrewide drums remains, it stands alongside replicas that are played daily by a team of energetic percussionists. They perform for visitors who come for the drum platform’s small, informative exhibition and (as it’s 30 metres up) big views of the surrounding neighbourhoods. From here the panorama takes in Dianmen Street (which follows the city’s north–south ‘central axis’ on which the Towers, the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square sit); to the west Shichahai lakes

heritage district; to the north the Bell Tower (or Zhonglou); and spreading out east a tangle of historical lanes.

In Qing times these districts were within the northern confines of the walled Tartar City that surrounded the Imperial City that in turn protected the Forbidden City.

But there has been a drum tower, or Gulou, here for longer than that: Kublai Khan built one in 1272 when this was Dadu, capital of his Yuan Dynasty.

Kublai Khan was a Mongol – and it was his language that gave the city’s lanes and alleys the name ‘hutong’. A century ago there were perhaps 7,000 of these iconic hutongs within the city walls, and though from the Drum Tower you’d have been hard-pushed to see more than a fraction of them, its ‘hourly’ drumbeats would have carried far across the low-rise city into many of those lanes.

At street level, the meandering hutongs are no less cluttered than the view from above suggests. Bicycles clog passageways, strips of drying meat are pegged to washing lines, chalkboards announce neighbourhood news. Sometimes there’s a village-like hush

beijing

Hutong clans

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about the hutongs; often, there’s not. Women perch on stools while knitting baby clothes, hawkers sell garlic or sugared haws off the back of bikes, and old ladies with red armbands keep an eye on things. People eke out a living doing jobs that aren’t much called for near the new high-rise housing: there’s the coal deliverer, the scissor sharpener, the streetside barber and the beer-barrow boy.

This is Beijing’s heritage. It’s a place where the city’s culture, which somehow managed to survive the trials of the last hundred years, faces up to the 21st century.

Until recently all of this was in jeopardy.

There were controversial plans to redevelop Gulou district, but these were shelved three years ago. What could have become a wishywashy tourist diversion remains (for the time being) authentic and full-blooded. And it’s yearning to be explored.

pancake days A morning spent wandering this warren of hutongs must surely start with a typical breakfast of a foot-long fritter, or youtiao, dunked in warm soya milk (duojiang).

Local residents who want something with a bit more bite head over to Doufuchi Hutong where a hole-in-the-wall (opposite the police station) is a popular spot for jianbing – a pancake filled with scallion, baocui crispbread, coriander, tianmianjiang sauce and an egg – that’s cooked fresh in front of you on a hotplate.

From here, with steaming, folded pancake in hand, head around a couple of corners to Kaffa Cafe on Guowang Hutong for a wake-up espresso or (if there’s a need for something stronger) the Qianding Old Liquor Museum that displays over a thousand jars of vodkalike baijiu, including some rare and Qing-era varieties. The jianbing will help soak up the free shot of firewater offered to visitors.

Moving on from the pancake shop, Duofuchi Hutong, or Bean Curd Pool Lane,

The Lookout Room peers across the hutong rooftops to the Drum and Bell Towers (pictured), but if that’s booked out The Orchid’s (65 Baochao Hutong; 8404 4818; theorchidbeijing.com) other accommodation, that opens onto the courtyard garden, is equally comfortable.

With nights starting at RMB700, The Orchid is a convenient, contemporary option in the heart of Gulou.

beijing

Room with a view

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“ W udaoyi n g shows that a huto n g ca n r ei n v e n t itself without a n eed fo r a maste r pla n ”

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runs almost directly east, becoming Huafeng (Flower-filled) Lane and then Fensiting (Secretarial Office) Lane. On the way it crosses Baochao Hutong with its cosy little cafes and bars, and Beiluoguxiang, which 10 minutes further south turns into buzzing Nanluoguxiang.

As you follow the alley, take a peek into doorways and open windows to catch sight of people rolling noodles or pinching dumplings, tinkering with old radios, filling trays with herb-stuffed breads or huddled around dismantled machines scratching their heads.

eastern promise The clamour of Andingmennei Dajie will stop you in your tracks. This bustling avenue separates the modest western hutongs with the increasingly gentrified lanes of the east. Across this road things are a little more upscale: there’s a French deli, a pet groomer and knife-and-fork dining.

Wudaoying Hutong, extending along the northern edge of this district, shows that a hutong can successfully reinvent itself with no need for a master plan. It’s a pot luck of shopping and dining options.

Cappuccino is frothed up at Life is Elsewhere and Phoenix Cafe, Argo serves Greek cuisine, You House makes sushi and The Veggie Table speaks for itself. Or there’s Brandnü (for upcycled goods), Papa (for handmade candy) and Confidant (for porcelain must-haves).

Running parallel to the south – as if to underline the differences – Guozijian Jie is an attractive pagoda tree-lined avenue that is spanned by the last remaining pailou (or decorative archways) within city walls. It is named after the Imperial Academy that’s halfway along, next door to the tranquil Confucian Temple.

Further south, Fangjia Hutong is a lot more rock ‘n’ roll thanks to a slew of bars and tucked-away clubs. Popular with locals and expats alike are El Nido, Cellar Door and Hot

Divine dumplings Judging by the English-language menu and walls decorated with the multilingual graffiti of appreciative diners, Mr Shi’s Dumplings (74 Baochao Hutong; open 10.30am–10.30pm) is popular with overseas visitors. Don’t let that deter you from sampling this pleasant little diner’s excellent boiled and fried dumplings. Fillings range from the traditional (pork and chive), through vegetarian (cabbage, carrot and coriander) to the new-wave (cheese and basil) – and they’re all served with a bowl of delicious vinegared garlic called laba suan.

Xian’r Lao Man (252 Andingmennei Dajie; open 11am–10pm) may exercise the curious Beijing dumpling house rule that pairs of everything are ordered, but at 5 to 10 yuan per plate of delicious jiaozi who can complain? The order sheet’s in Chinese – but that’s all part of the fun: the 60 varieties are as tasty as they are authentic, so tick away! The waitress might bring pork and lotus root, beef and fennel or carrot and egg…

This page, clockwise from top left Cherry blossom, Old Summer Pal ace’s Western Mansion; at work in Ritan Park; A game of xiangqi; Forsythia at the 10,000 -Flower Maze; Purple Bamboo Park

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Cat Club (whose owner also runs Yes Bar, a coffee-shop-cum-gallery at number 55).

It’s that kind of quirkiness that has encouraged an art and design colony to settle here. 46 Fangjia Hutong, for example, is a surreal mix of converted workshops and newbuild add-ons, home to an eclectic mix of studios, cafes and boutiques. Twin Cities and Cenci are good choices for a cup of joe (or something stronger), while Tranquil Tuesdays has sourced some fine Chinese teas and teaware. If founder Charlene is there, she might recommend somewhere new nearby for a bite to eat.

There’s enthusiasm on both sides of Andingmennei Dajie: to the west, they cheer the hard-fought saving of traditional neighbourhoods; in the east, they’re experimenting with the new and reinvented.

In the end, it will be interesting to see how long these two ideals can live side by side. ◆

Clockwise from top left steamed and fried dumplings; north 2nd ring road city park alongside wudaoying hutong; confucian temple on Guozijian Jie

canberra

首都首睹 特伦特范德探索了首都堪培拉，不仅是许多澳大利亚 最具标志性的建筑物以此为家的地方，还正在经历 着复兴，准备挑战悉尼和墨尔本这两个大城市

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c apital gai ns

Not only is Canberra home to some of Australia’s most iconic buildings, it’s also going through a revival to challenge Sydney and Melbourne, discovers Trent van der Jagt

A Corridors of power Parliament house is the centre oF Australian national politics

脱“丛林之都”的绰号。 现在因为有新一代的企业 家使堪培拉终于能摆脱其 单调无趣，来拥抱一个更 加国际化的氛围。 从悉尼穿过蜿蜒的葡 萄酒园和羊群，经过三个 小时的车程来到拥有着风 景像拼凑在一起的澳大利 亚首都堪培拉。当您每隔 五十公尺便看到国家级博 物馆或古迹的指示时，便 知道即将要到达目的地。 堪培拉的每一栋大厦 以及建筑物也配合到位， 好像一幅经精心考量的拼 图。这里就是专门为澳大 利亚政府总部而设小镇。 当年在决定那个城市将会 成为澳大利亚的首都时， 悉尼和墨尔本经过一段漫 长的争执也未能达成协 议，政府最终决定定居在 亚斯（Yass）的农业小镇

s enthusiasts of all things sweet and buttery fog up the glass that shields raspberry tarts and fluffy croissants, locals need offer only a simple nod to be handed their usual brown paper bags of pastries and pies. Welcome to the Silo Bakery in Kingston, where the barriers between political and suburban life are brought down as soon as the smell of fresh loaves wafts from the oven. “People might visit Canberra for the history and monuments,” says Graham Hudson, Silo Bakery owner, “but it’s places like this where they see what life here is all about.”

The nation’s capital has come of age. Until recently, Canberra was viewed by many as a country town desperate to shrug off its

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在

覆盆子挞和松 软的羊角面包 的玻璃前充斥 着甜食和奶油的爱好者， 当地人只需要简单的点 一下头，装着精美的糕 点和派的牛皮纸袋便会递 给他们。位于金斯顿区 （Kingston）的斯罗烤培 店（Silo Bakery）弥漫着 新鲜出炉的面包香气，把 政治生活和郊区小镇中 间的障碍拉垮。斯罗烤 培店老板格雷厄姆·哈 德森(Graham Hudson) 说：“人们可能为了历史 古迹而到访堪培拉，但就 是只有像烤培店这种地方 才能看到在这里真正的生 活模式。” 国家的首都已日趋成 熟。作为一个国家的首 都，近日堪培拉被许多人 认为她正在不顾一切地摆

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‘bush capital’ moniker. Now, thanks to a new generation of entrepreneurs, it has shed its humdrum skin to embrace a distinctly more cosmopolitan vibe.

After a three-hour drive from Sydney, through meandering wine and sheep country, Australia’s capital rises from a patchwork landscape. You know you’re getting close when signs every 50 metres beckon you towards yet another national museum or monument.

Every building and piece of architecture in Canberra fits into place like a well-thoughtout cultural puzzle – as you’d expect from a town built specifically to house the Australian Government. After lengthy disagreements between Sydney and Melbourne as to which city would be the capital, eventually they compromised on a large patch of land near the farming town of Yass. With a protective mountain range, cool climate and proximity to the major centres, a brand new city was born.

Construction of the made-to-order capital began in 1913 after architect and city planner Walter Burley Griffin won the Federal Capital Design Competition from 137 entries. Broken up into distinct districts of monuments, expansive lakes and arty neighbourhoods, Canberra’s hexagonal layout represents ideas from differing decades of architecture and planning, making it a fitting testament to Australia’s history and culture.

Family album The national portrait gallery (below) celebrates australia’s RIch artistic history

Political moves You’d need days to fully explore all of the city’s sites, but for a crash course in Australian history, stick to the big guns.

Political junkies should get their fix from Parliament House during the showdown known as ‘question time’. Held every weekday at 2pm, it’s the best show in town.

Parliament House is naturally the centre of attention. Its location beneath Capital Hill may be akin to a secret bunker, but the towering flags and spires jutting high above the city and the fiery spectacle of political action inside make it well worth the visit.

Afterwards, a quick stop at the nearby Museum of Australian Democracy at Old Parliament will help put everything you’ve just seen into context.

“ const r uction of the capita l began in 1 9 1 3 ”

Once you’ve witnessed the thrills and spills of Australian politics, a breeze through the galleries along the shores of Lake Burley Griffin is in order. The Canberra Contemporary Art Space will have you stroking your chin in front of M.C. Escher-esque staircase installations, while the National Gallery of Australia and National Portrait Gallery are like walking through Australia’s family album, transporting you through our rich artistic history. Both galleries house over 200 years of Australian painting and sculptures, not to mention one of the country’s largest collections of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander works.

If you’re ever unsure where your next stop should be, scan the horizon and you’ll more than likely spot another standout piece of 1950s-sci-fi-meets-Victorian architecture.

附近的一大片土地上。 一个被众山环绕、峰峦叠 嶂、气候宜人、而且还邻 近大城市的新城市就这样 诞生了。 量身定制的首都于 1913年开始设建，在137 个应征设计中，由建筑师 和城市规划师沃尔特· 布里格芬（Walter Burly Griffin）赢得联邦首都设 计大赛（Federal Capital Design Competition）， 堪培拉的城市规划继而按 照该方案实施。把城市分 成不同的区域包括古迹、 广阔的湖泊以及充满艺术 气息的社区，堪培拉的六 方规划代表数十年来不同 的建筑风格，规划的方法 使她成为了一个澳大利亚 历史和文化的见证。 要充分探掘城市各处 景点需要好几天的时间， 可是如果来一个澳大利亚 历史速成班，只需要到访 一些最重要的地方。政治 迷们应该能在议会大厦举 行的“问题时间”对决中 得到满足，这是城中最棒 的节目，每逢周一至周五 的下午2时举行。 建于首都山（Capital Hill）下的议会大厦，是 多年政治的中心焦点。 位居于山脚下的地理位置 或许使它像一个秘密地 堡，但其高耸参天的旗 帜、高于全城的尖顶及里 面如火如荼、充满政治 魄力的场面，值得我们到 访一趟。之后随即到访附 近位于旧议会大厦(Old Parliament)的澳大利亚民 主博物馆，这将帮助您理 解刚才所看到的一切来龙 去脉。 您现在已目睹了澳 大利亚政治惊险的一 面，是时候到访格里 芬湖畔（Lake Burly

Griffin）的艺术馆。当 代的艺术馆如堪培拉当 代艺术空间（Canberra ContemparyArt Space）能为您呈现莫 里茨·科内利斯·埃舍尔 （M.C. Escher- esque） 的楼梯作品，可是， 是澳大利亚国立美术馆 （National Gallery） 及国家肖像馆（Portrait Gallery）将带领您翻阅澳 大利亚的家庭相册，并透 过我们丰富的艺术史把您 带回去古时。这两个艺术 馆拥有200多年的澳大利 亚绘画和雕塑，以及是国 家其中两个收藏最大量土 著艺术和托雷斯海峡岛民 艺术的艺术馆。 如果你不清楚下一站 要去那里的话，那就请 尝试举目眺望，很有可 能会发现另一个出众的 1950年代科幻荟萃的维 多利亚建筑物。从国会 眺望，澳大利亚战争纪 War 念馆（Australian Memorial)的拜占庭式圆 顶在安斯利山（Mount Ainslie）的山脚下跟士兵 一样的高大。在这里您将 找到从1788至今澳大利亚 卷入战争的历史存档。纪 念馆不灭的火焰及挂有铭 牌的墙壁以红色的罂粟花 海为装饰，纪念澳大利亚 多次不同的战争经验及人 们塑造澳大利亚的故事。 当然在堪培拉不尽是 博物馆和古迹，也有一些 比较温暖、让人舒服的一 面。国家古迹的墙壁背后 隐藏着多元文化的小区和 邻里，拥有美食与优质咖 啡。身为年轻政客、下午 正在买啤酒的您若选对了 地点，很有机会与驾着单 速车的嬉皮士擦肩而过。 在 博 物 馆 的 北 方，沿着朗斯代尔街

canberra

“现在的堪培拉似乎 已经变得很酷”

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With a clear line of sight from Parliament, the Australian War Memorial’s Byzantine dome stands tall at the foot of Mount Ainslie.

Here you’ll find the premiere archive of Australia’s war involvement from 1788 to the present. The Memorial’s eternal flame and walls of nameplates decorated in a sea of red poppies commemorates the diverse Australian experiences of war and the stories of people that shaped the nation.

national meets local Of course, as noted, it’s not all museums and monuments. There’s a warmer, cosier, more neighbourly side to the city. Beyond the walls lies a string of culturally diverse suburbs and communities where good food and even better coffee reign. Pick the right place and you’re just as likely to rub shoulders with bearded hipsters on fixie bikes as you are young politicians grabbing an afternoon beer.

Head north of the museums, venturing along Lonsdale Street, and you’ll find where all the Canberrans have been hiding out. Cafes such as EightySix and Elk & Pea pull crowds with their feta & zucchini hash browns and pork belly with maple terrine. Meanwhile the graffiti-decorated Lonsdale Street Roasters’ signature blends are often responsible for long lines weaving around the corner.

While the street itself doesn’t scream cool or art deco, look a little closer and you’ll find all kinds of stuff – like the tiny hidden entrance to the Lonsdale Street Traders markets. It’s a collection of art and design boutiques enticing you in with home-made wares such as designer clothes, vegan cakes or free games of foosball while deer heads keep score from above. Canberra, it seems, has become cool.

Anzac Voices

At the end of each day at 4:55pm, the Australian War Memorial farewells visitors with its Last Post ceremony. Visitors are invited to lay wreaths and tributes beside the pool of reflection as the stories of the fallen are told, followed by the Australian National Anthem and the Last Post played by a piper.

Exploring the city further reveals a number of smaller upcoming precincts with food and coffee that would give Melbourne a run for its money. Woven amid the political framework you’ll find the NewActon precinct, a communal, mixed-use building project.

Then there’s cafes such as Mocan & Green Grout, a coffee/bike shop hybrid flooded daily with customers looking for a taste of lemonwhipped ricotta and smoked salmon – and to get their wheels fixed at the same time.

In contrast to the hard political life of Parliament, sharing and caring is a way of life in the smaller suburbs and precincts of Canberra. It’s a city where politics meets small-town attitude and the shops, restaurants and bars thrive off of each other.

Last words, then, from Hudson, owner of Silo Bakery and purveyor of those ‘sweet and buttery’ treats. “This city is continually growing and becoming more popular. It’s the variety that keeps people coming,” he says.

“You can be enjoying a cake here, and three minutes later be down the road exploring some of the nation’s heritage.”

With Canberra and its tasty mix of politics and pastries, it seems you can have your cake – and eat it too. ◆

Get your fix You can get your bike tuned and grab a coffee at mocan & green grout

Where to stay 凯悦酒店除了提供一般在高端五星级酒店应有的一 切之外，还是一座列入遗产名录的建筑，被园林公 园和格里芬湖河畔包围着，在地图上几乎都是著名 的地标。 As well as the usual high-end five-star offerings you'd expect from the Hyatt, this heritage-listed site is also surrounded by hectares of landscaped gardens, the shores of Lake Burley Griffin and almost every iconic landmark on the map.

canberra.park.hyatt.com

canberra

Hyatt Hotel Canberra

Photo by John Gollings

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（LonsdaleStreet）探 索能揭示一直在堪培拉 躲藏的一切。咖啡厅如 EightySix和Elk and Pea 以菲达芝士西葫芦薯饼及 枫肉酱五花肉使宾客如 云，可是还不如以喜庆涂 鸦装饰的Lonsdale Street Roasters咖啡厅的人多， 门外大排长龙就是为了品 尝其特制的咖啡。 由于街道本身不懂发 出尖叫声或是以艺术来装 饰自己，所以必需要您 仔细观察才能发现各式各 样的东西。好像朗斯代尔 街贸易市场（Lonsdale Street Traders），一系列 的艺术设计商品店用他们 自家制品把您诱惑进去， 包括设计师服装、全素蛋 糕或拥有鹿头来保持得分 的桌上足球。现在的堪培 拉似乎已经变得很酷。 进一步探索城市时会 发现有一些现在规模还是 比较小的新兴商业模式 正把钱从墨尔本带到这

里。在纵横交错的政治 框架中间，您会发现新区 New Acton，一个拥有 混合用途的建筑项目的 公用社区。或是每天门庭 若市的咖啡自行车混合店 如 Mocan and Green Grout，客人前来品尝他 们家的柠檬里考塔和熏鲑 鱼，同时也把自行车车轮 弄好。在堪培拉好像在任 何时候或任何地方都有人 能想出很酷的经营概念。 堪培拉的小区充满分 享与关怀的生活模式跟议 会的政治生活形成强烈的 对比。这是一个当政治碰 上小区的态度，然后每家 商店、餐馆及酒吧也能互 相兴旺的城市。 最后用斯罗烤培店的 老板以及这些“又甜又奶 油”的小吃的供应者格雷 厄姆·哈德森的一句话来 结束：这个城市正在不断 增长而且越来越受欢迎， 吸引人们一直来的是这里 的原因是多元化。他继续

解释道：“您可以此刻在 这里享受着蛋糕，三分钟 后却在同一条街上在探索 一些国家的文化遗产。” 堪培拉的政治和糕点 能成为美味组合，看来鱼 与熊掌是可以兼得的。 ◆

“堪培拉好像一 幅经精心考量 的拼图”

W heel good time Cycling through the traditional Beijing on a less-than-traditional bike. Opposite, door to a courtyard home in the Xixinglong Jie hutong district, south-east of Tiananmen Square

A ll in the detail Clockwise from top left: dumpling wizardry at the Mandarin oriental, including xiao long bao; checking the bird’s nest; roast goose ‘swan’, peking duck at jianguo; pork in shallots

Food is, literally, never far from the lips of anyone in Guangzhou, as Alex Mead discovers on a whirlwind tour with the city’s own ‘Jamie Oliver’ Photography Sarah Coghill

guangzhou

Guangzhou on a plate

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C o l d c o m fo r t s Clockwise from top: rib of beef; baskets of dumplings; turnip dim sum; crabs at huangsha; Guigang market; and cooked blue-limbed prawns

wonderful scent, a beautifully curved body, slender legs and the purest of white skin. It’s probably fair to say that some descriptions on Guangzhou menus read more like a piece of erotic fiction than what you’re going to be served for dinner that evening. Having said that, if we’re talking about a chicken from Jiang – Chef Fei’s highend Cantonese diner at the Mandarin Oriental – you tend to understand, because this is a bird that sets the pulse racing.

What’s more (and as the menu also explains) this piece of poultry is not only beautiful, it’s also good for you. Specifically, it’s ‘good for blood circulation and weight control’ – providing, that is, you don’t eat too many of them, which isn’t easy when Chef Fei’s poached Wenchang chicken is probably the tastiest bird you’ll ever eat. “It just tastes so chicken-y,” eloquently explains Marcel Kofler, Fei’s fellow chef at the Mandarin Oriental. “Have you ever tasted such a chicken-y chicken?”

The answer – even as an ardent lover of all things fowl – is negative. But it takes work, research and preparation to execute such a seemingly simple dish so perfectly. “A chicken looks simple but it will have taken a couple

of days,” continues Kofler. “It’ll have been blanched, marinated, brined with star anise, and then poached.

“And look at the criss-cross of the skin, look at how even the skin is across the body, always about 2mm thick. Then see how the meat is so evenly spread across the bird. There are about 10 types of chicken, including the sunflower, Qingyuan and Zhanjiang, but most Cantonese love the Wenchang. It’s the best – it has the perfect skin-fat ratio.”

All this bird talk might seem excessive, but you can’t underestimate the importance of chicken to the people of Guangzhou – hence all the sayings reiterating their love. From the classic “no chicken, no feast” to the sly dig at Shanghainese folk “if we have to choose between chicken or clothes, we’d go for chicken, they’d choose clothes,” their passion for poultry is clear.

FEI’S KITCHEN Fei himself is something of a Guangzhou Jamie Oliver. While Jiang is the fine-dining showcase for his Cantonese culinary wizardry, he also has numerous all-day dining joints across the city (including, randomly, his own Japanese noodle bar); his own range of noodles; and he can even be found regularly strutting his stuff on Chinese television.

Three of a kind Cantonese is actually one of three cuisines in the Guangdong province. “You also have Teochew from the east and Hakka. With Hakka food they use a lot of sugar; the people who cook it live in the mountains where there’s a lot of water, it’s humid, and the signature is salt-baked chicken or bean curd stuffed with meat or fish paste,” explains Fei. “Teochew is a lot about seafood; the people who cook it are very skilled at cutting fish. But they also braise a lot of stuff, eat it, then use the remaining food in stew and eat again.”

Wat e r t a s t y t r e at OPPOSITE: some of the locals at the huangsha fish market, including mantis prawns (top); blue-limbed prawns (middle); sea cucumbers (bottom middle); and crabs (Bottom left)

Back in the kitchens of Jiang, Fei’s team is making use of downtime by picking through a huge bowl of bird’s nest, picking out impurities with chopsticks. It’s a time-sapping task requiring considerable dexterity, but his staff are well-trained. They produce some of the most refined dim sum in town, no mean feat given that Guangzhou is the capital and spiritual home of those tasty little bites.

Such acclaim could also be earned for their chicken feet, which are fried for three minutes then steamed with soy and garlic for 45. Sucking the sticky, sweet skin until only the bare knuckles remain is a ritual every customer enjoys. Fei buys the feet from America – “they don’t eat them there and the chicken are bigger,” he explains. Locals use every inch of their beloved birds, so an excess of feet isn’t likely to happen in this city.

While he’s happy to deliver classic dumplings, he tweaks some too – like adding asparagus and making an ‘open’ version of the shrimp har gow. Custard tarts are on the eggier side of things, the pastry extra flaky, just the way the Cantonese like them.

And they’re not an easy crowd to please, as Fei points out. “They are more particular in what they eat than what they wear,” he says.

“They’re not fashion conscious, they will not

wear brands, but they eat grand. They’re very knowledgeable too – they know how everything is supposed to taste.

“Cantonese is the most elegant and refined of all Chinese cuisines and it’s also because of the philosophy,” Fei continues. “Whether it’s bird’s nest, abalone or sea cucumber, food is not just for our stomachs but for health too.

Bird’s nest is for youth; women love it because it’s a youth elixir, good for skin. Sea cucumber balances the yin and yang, and it’s very good for energy. Fish maw is prized for properties to rejuvenate the body after childbirth and very good for gastric too.”

if it lives in the water...

Medicinal properties and ‘birthplace of dim sum’ label aside, Cantonese cuisine is also defined by its seafood. Everything and anything that resides underwater is welcome on a Guangzhou plate – as long as it’s fresh. To demonstrate his point, Fei takes us to his fish market of choice, Huangsha Seafood Market, in the west of the city on the Zhujiang River. His buyer – who looks no older than 14, but we’re told is actually a 27-year-old father of two – is waiting for us as Fei pulls up in his Range Rover.

Kofler, not one to miss out on the chance to visit the market, is along for the ride.

“ the geo d u ck , like a fat worm with its tail ca u ght in a shell , is a d elicac y ”

Together, with the buyer in tow, they work their way through the rows of fish tanks and buckets filled with myriad aquatic creatures.

This isn’t just the bounty from the South China Sea; the locals cast their net wide, so you’ll find tiger prawns from the Indian, lobsters from the Atlantic, razor clams from Australia and more besides. Like, for instance, the geoduck – technically a clam, but about a foot in length and resembling a giant, fat worm with its tail caught in a shell. Served sashimi-style, it’s a delicacy many crave in these parts. Next door, a lady with a bucket of sandworms squeezes the sand out of the slippery things so they’re ready to be fried with a bit of radish. The water cockroaches in the neighbouring bucket will suffer the same fate, but will share their pan with a pinch of salt and five-spice.

Fish tales There isn’t much you can’t get at Huangsha: sea snakes, eels, mandarinfish, Sri Lankan crabs, grouper, blue prawns, sea cucumber, mantis prawns. Fei and Kofler are like kids in a playground, picking up this and pointing out that while our buyer haggles for whatever takes their fancy. With heaving bags of flapping fish and restless crustaceans, we leave the wet floors of the market and take the stairs to one of several almost identical restaurants above.

Teeming with locals who’ve just plucked their dinner from the hundreds of tanks down below, this is how every seafood restaurant should be.

We have steamed sea snake (tastes like tough

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F l av o u r s o f C a nt o n This paGe: jiang dim sum.

Opposite (clockwise): geoduck; fish heads for stock; scorpions; chefs fei and kofler; local setting up market stall

3 for sleep Mandarin Oriental

Ritz-Carlton

Jianguo Hotel

在这里除了有五星级酒店集团应有的一切，还有 广 州名厨辉师父旗下的江餐厅，是广州最好的粤菜馆之 一。酒店里设有一流的水疗中心和健身房，让酒店锦 上添花的是位于相邻的奢华购物广场。

当您身在中国时，没有任何东西比得上带点英国殖 民复古风格的广州富力丽思卡尔顿酒店，是经典中 的经典。感觉就像已经有100多年历史。酒店内的 Churchill酒吧是享用最好的干邑白兰地和雪茄的地 方。还提供一流的美食。

酒店里不只提供粤菜的特色佳肴，还制作出城内数 一数二的北京烤鸭。采用从北京进口的鸭子、酱料和 特制烤箱！

As well as the usual slick five-star offerings you expect from the group, this is also home to Jiang, the flagship restaurant of Chef Fei, one of Guangzhou’s best. The spa and gym are both first-rate, and as an added bonus the hotel adjoins a high-end shopping mall.

Nothing like a bit of old-school colonial British style when in China. Truly timeless, it feels like it’s been here 100 years, not just a few. The Churchill Bar is the place to go for the best Cognac and cigars in town.

mandarinoriental.com

This 403-key hotel has all the bells and whistles of a five-star resort and then some. Not only do they do all the local Cantonese specialities, but they also do some of the best Peking duck in town – shipping in the ducks, the sauce and even a special oven from Beijing!

ritz-carlton.com

jianguohotelgz.com

Food tours

guangzhou

Wendy Wu Tours has a number of brilliant food tours that explore Huangsha and Guigang food markets and the top spots for street snacks, as well as taking in some of the best teahouses across the city. The guides speak good English and tours can also incorporate other parts of Guangzhou and China. For more details, visit wendywutours.com.au

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chicken, or at least we think it does; we’ve eaten a lot of different chicken in Guangzhou), boiled prawn mantis (the meatiest shrimp you’ll ever get stuck into), the aforementioned geoduck, and some wonderfully sweet blue prawns with a freshness that’s clearly a welcome result of their deep-sea life. A giant crab is proffered as well but politely declined in favour of finishing the fare already cooked.

If this is the way locals eat then it’s no wonder they save their money for mealtimes.

As it’s lunchtime, elsewhere in Guangzhou the teahouses – their capacities in the realms of thousands, not hundreds – are undoubtedly full (and have been since breakfast) with people taking their time over the delicious dim sum. Cooking and eating is just what the Cantonese do, and they do it with gusto.

In fact, Kofler reckons there isn’t a city of food lovers quite like Guangzhou. “Every mother, every person who cooks or eats has an opinion on how things should be done,” he says. “Even with fried rice, you’ve got to get it right, and getting it the way they want in terms of flavour and texture isn’t easy.”

Fei does a quicker job of boiling down his city’s food status. “Guangzhou is the food

capital of China,” he states, just as the giant crab is presented to the table. Looking at the feast before us, recalling the dumplings we had for breakfast and with Fei reminding us that people in this part of China “mostly talk about chicken,” he could well be right. ◆

Market for attention One of the best Guangzhou food markets is Guigang in the Dongshan district. Here you’ll find locals arriving from 6am for a breakfast of noodles or maybe a bowl of offal hotpot – all washed down with a bean curd drink. Here, stalls sell everything from scorpions and frogs to water-chestnut cakes and honeyed pork ribs – all you could want for your weekly shop!

2013 2009

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璀璨皇冠 五星级的酒店、电影影院、保龄球场⋯⋯ 丽莎·佩尔科维奇 发现墨尔本皇冠一应俱全 ，没有什么是在这里找不到的

Crowning glory Five-star hotels, movie cinemas, ten-pin bowling – Lisa Perkovic finds there isn’t much Crown Melbourne doesn’t offer

Great balls of fire

crown melbourne

Fireballs shoot from crown’S 10m granite towers on the shores of the yarra river

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T

he South Yarra River cuts a swathe through Melbourne, splitting the city into two camps. On the northern side, small bars and live music venues huddle in CBD laneways; on the southern side lie the bright lights and fireballs of Southbank. Yes, fireballs.

Crown Melbourne opened its doors in 1997 and since then the casino, hotel, shopping and entertainment precinct has transformed the Southbank Promenade into a destination in its own right. Unlike the rest of Melbourne, which is riddled with hidden cafes

and secret bars, Crown Melbourne is unashamedly big, bold and beautiful.

The show begins on the riverbank itself, where eight 10m tall granite towers called Gas Brigades throw fireballs into the sky. The fireballs light up the night on the hour, every hour from dusk until midnight on weeknights, and until 1am on weekends.

The theatrics don’t stop inside, where you can find a light show, Spiegeltent, movie cinemas, laser wars and ten-pin bowling. But the real magic happens on Crown’s casino floor. With more than 500 tables, you can take your pick of games, from traditional blackjack, roulette and

穿

越墨尔本的南亚拉河（South Yarra River），把城市分成了两半。在 北面的中央商务区充斥着小型酒 吧和提供现场音乐的地方，而在南面有活力 四射的灯光和南岸的火球。是的，是火球。 墨尔本皇冠集团于1997年开业，自此之后凭 着其赌场、酒店、购物和娱乐区把南岸长廊 （SouthbankPromenade）改变成为一个人 人到访的地方。有别于墨尔本其他的地方， 尽是充满了隐秘咖啡馆和酒吧，相反地墨尔 本皇冠气派十足，极其美丽闪耀。 演出从南岸开始，八个高10米的花岗岩 塔向天空发射火焰，又称火炬秀。周一到周 五从黄昏至午夜十二时，每隔一个小时便会 有火球照亮晚上的星空，周末的演出时间还 会延长至凌晨1时。

Silky views

crown melbourne

watch the skyline from a private dining room at silks chinese restaurant

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“ d e cor i n th e privat e rooms vari e s from e n g l ish g e n try to a mor e e x otic morocca n f e e l ”

pai gow to American-style Texas hold ’em, Caribbean Stud and three card poker. All games are played 24 hours a day, except on public holidays, and even then you can try your luck until 4am.

Poker machines number up to 2,500 and run the gauntlet from one and two cent to $2 and $5 bets. The higher betting machines are found in private betting rooms, where the stakes also get astronomically higher at the tables.

The Signature Club is Crown’s loyalty program, with points earned in the casino, restaurants, boutiques, hotels and entertainment venues.

Meanwhile, for VIPs, the Mahogany Room is the members and inviteonly gaming area inside the Crown Towers Hotel. Forget Perspex guards on the tables; instead, think leather armchairs, crystal chandeliers and floor-to-ceiling windows. Here the minimum outside bet on roulette is $50. With private lift access, a bistro dining room and a private terrace overlooking Southbank, the space is designed primarily for high rollers and top-tier Signature Club members.

International high rollers and visiting celebrities might not be

Platinum or Black Signature Club members, but they still get the star treatment. Crown has spent hundreds of millions of dollars upgrading the top-tier playing spaces.

They lure players from around the world with international competitions – last year a 22-year-old Canadian walked away with $1.6 million in prize money after winning the Aussie Millions Poker Championship.

it’s showtime Beyond gaming, Crown also hosts several events requiring venue spaces

戏剧化的演出不只是停留在皇冠里面，还 有灯光秀、斯皮格尔马戏帐篷、电影院、激 光战以及保龄球。可是真正有趣的地方是赌 场，场内设有超过500桌赌桌任君选择，有传 统的游戏如廿一点、轮盘、牌九，也有一些 美国赌场风格的游戏如德州扑克，加勒比扑 克以及三牌扑克。一年365天都能在这里碰碰 运气，每天24小时开放，除了公众假期以外 是开放至凌晨4时。 老虎机的数量增加至2,500部，赌注从一 分钱和两分钱到两块和五块。高投注金额的 老虎机设在私人博彩厅，赌注比一般的赌桌 要高很多。 皇冠俱乐部SignatureClub是给会员的忠 诚计划，于赌场、餐厅、商店、酒店和娱乐 设施消费可获赠积分。 位于皇冠度假酒店内的红木厅是为贵宾

会员和仅限被邀请的客人而设的博彩区，拥 有皮革扶手坐椅、水晶吊灯与落地玻璃窗。 这里的赌桌最低下注金额一般是几十块澳 币，如轮盘的最低下注额是澳币50元。设 有私家电梯、小酒馆用餐室以及一个俯瞰南 岸的私人露台，这个是专为高注码贵宾客和 SignatureClub俱乐部顶级会员而设的地方。 国际和当地的大客户，以及来访的名人 有可能不是铂金或黑色SignatureClub俱乐部 的会员，但他们仍然会获得明星般的待遇。 皇冠花费了数以百万计来把顶级的博彩区升 级。在这里举办的国际比赛吸引了来自世界 各地的玩家前来参加，去年一位22岁的加拿 大人赢了澳大利亚百万锦标赛，获得160万美 元的奖金。 除了赌博，皇冠还举办一些活动，所需 的场地不仅需要备有豪华装备，还要庞大的 面积。譬如澳大利亚版本的金球奖——电视 周末杂志洛杰颁奖礼现场直播的活动在皇冠 的钯金厅（PalladiumBallroom）举办，并 且已超过十年。每年一众名人明星走在红毯 上，还有带着睡眼惺忪的眼睛的记者们为了 第一时间报道颁奖礼派对后的故事而彻夜不 眠。 布朗洛荣誉奖章(BrownlowMedal)是澳 大利亚足球届最负盛名的颁奖晚会，也在皇 冠的宴会厅中举办。一众足球员不比他们精

“墨尔本皇冠气派 十足，极其美丽闪 耀⋯⋯ 能满足每 个人一切的欲望” 心打扮的妻子和女朋友逊息，一样吸引许多 的关注。 随着享有举办世界级活动的声誉，皇 冠请来美食届的重量级人物监管活动和 宴会菜单。去年年底澳大利亚厨师尼尔· 佩里（NeilPerry）和纪尧姆·卜拉希米 （GuillaumeBrahimi）被委任为皇冠度假酒 店的厨艺总监，授权监管厨房的一切事务。 在皇冠，每个厨师都有自己运营的餐 厅，而厨艺总监的头衔让他们不只是监 管宴会，还监管客房用餐和皇冠“烹饪学 院”(Culinarium)的训练。 在厨师的带领下，员工和学徒将被教授和 操练注重细节和本地农产品的重要性。两个 厨师一丝不苟的精神和致力支持当地社区的 农民是众所周知的。纪尧姆·卜拉希米指出 虽然数量不多，可是质量高：“我营运一家 规模很少的餐厅，但我觉得不管是为10个人

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of much greater scale, not to mention extravagance. The TV Week Logie Awards, for example, are Australia’s version of the Emmys, and Crown’s Palladium Ballroom has been its venue for more than a decade. Each year celebrities walk the red carpet, and stories of after parties in Crown’s private rooms trickle through to news bulletins broadcast by bleary-eyed presenters who have probably been up all night.

The Brownlow Medal is the Australian Football League’s most prestigious awards night and is also held in the Ballroom, where welldressed wives and girlfriends often attract as much attention as the football players themselves.

With a reputation for world-class events, Crown has brought in the heavyweights of the food industry to oversee the events and banquet menus.

Late last year Australian chefs Neil Perry and Guillaume Brahimi were given control of the kitchens when they were appointed culinary directors for Crown Resorts.

Each chef already operates restaurants within Crown, and the title of culinary director gives them control over not just the banquets, but also in-room dining and the training at Crown’s ‘Culinarium’. Here, under the chefs’ direction, staff and apprentices are drilled in the importance of attention to detail and a focus on local produce.

Both chefs are known for their meticulous methods and commitment to supporting growers in the

community. Brahimi says it isn’t so much the quantity but the quality that matters: “I run a very small restaurant but I feel the same philosophy applies if you cook for 10 people or 1,000. The produce is the key. I want to bring my philosophy of using the produce of the season to think global, use local.”

Brahimi and Perry have bold plans “to be the best banqueting experience that Melbourne, if not the world, has seen,” says Perry, and with ambitious dishes such as king salmon served with lemon curd and apple emulsion or a perfectly cooked Grand Mariner soufflé on the menu, they’re not too far from achieving that goal.

Master chefs Outside of banquets and events, Crown has for a long time led the

way in accommodating celebrity chefs with kitchen space in Melbourne.

Guillaume’s Bistro and Perry’s Rosetta, Rockpool Bar and Grill and Spice Temple are long-standing institutions along the Southbank Promenade.

Plenty of other big names also call Crown home. Australia’s first Nobu Restaurant, the international franchise from Nobu Matsuhisa and American actor Robert De Niro, has been serving its signature yellowtail sashimi since 2007. Meanwhile No. 8

by John Lawson opened late last year bringing Barwon River lamb, duck from north-east Victoria and rare Bacchus Marsh almond mushrooms to the rustic wooden tables. There’s also Silks Chinese Restaurant; and the Conservatory, which boasts an array of international cuisine.

Fine dining

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The conservatory at crown offers an elegant and engaging dining experience

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还是1000个人下厨，也是应用同一个理念： 农产品是关键。我的理念是使用当季生产的 农产品，以国际化思考却使用本地的产品。 卜拉希米和佩里有个大胆的计划，佩里 说：“成为在墨尔本（如果不是全世界）提 供最好的宴会体验的餐厅，”菜单上有着一 流的佳肴如帝王鲑鱼配柠檬酱和苹果汁或是 完美的金万利香橙力娇酒梳乎厘，目标似乎 离他们不远了。 宴会和活动之外，皇冠早已在墨尔本 的厨房中收纳名厨。一众名厨以及其餐 厅汇聚于南岸的滨海大道如卜拉希米的 BistroGuillaume餐厅、佩里的Rosetta餐 厅、RockpoolBar餐厅、SpiceTemple餐 厅，还有许多其他的有名餐厅以皇冠为家。 澳 大 利 亚 的 第 一 家 松 久 餐 厅 （NobuRestaurant），是松久信幸 (NobuMatsuhisa)和美国演员罗伯特·德 尼罗的国际特许经营店，于2007年开始 供应他们的招聘菜鰤鱼刺身。约翰·劳森 （JohnLawson）的No.8餐厅也在去年年底 开业，设有乡村风格的木桌子，为一众饕客 带来巴望河羊肉、北东维的鸭肉和罕见的巴 克斯湿地杏仁菇。劳森花了几个月的时间采 购本地食材，而羊肉、鸭肉和蘑菇是专为他 而饲养和种植的。

在皇冠大厦酒店大厅内的威庭餐厅 （TheWaitingRoom）的下午茶是糕点师傅 罗伯特·摩里蔓（RobertMolleman）一展 厨艺的地方，如苹果和蓝莓挞以精致的食用 珍珠为装饰、毫无瑕疵的一口大小的树莓柠 檬酥皮派完美以及入口融化的白色佳人开心 果海绵蛋糕。别忘了给娇小的咖啡小饼预留 一些空间。 除了餐馆，皇冠把美食的主题带进酒店的 房间。纪尧姆和卜拉希米已接管五星级皇冠 大厦酒店的客房用餐服务，而这是一个很自 然的进展。佩里说：“我们的大半生都在酒 店中度过，（菜单）演绎了我们喜欢吃的东 西——非常简单的、经典中的经典如一份总 汇三文治或汉堡。我们并不是拾人牙慧⋯⋯ 经典的菜色就是经典，因为在人破坏它们之 前真的是很棒。我们想要重现它的棒。”佩 里是屡获殊荣的RockpoolBar餐厅的大厨， 其中有他制作著名的烤和牛汉堡。谁不爱在 房间享受美味的汉堡？ 倘若您住在皇冠大厦酒店的套房，那您可 能不需要房间汉堡了。这家拥有449间豪华客 房和32独橦别墅奢华别致，包括水晶吊灯、 浴缸上的电视，还有火树灯花的城市美景。 如果你喜欢二人烛光晚餐也能为您安排。 皇冠大厦酒店是墨尔本中少数设有游泳池

的酒店之一，游泳池跟皇冠其他部分一样又 大又漂亮。健身房、游泳池和皇冠水疗位居 去年成为电视真人秀《我要做厨神》以网球 场作为临时餐厅的下层。 皇冠大都会酒店跟皇冠大厦酒店以地面 上的豪华购物商场连接，皇冠大都会酒店相 对更现代化，从放置在大堂的木质巨型圆球 摆设到在豪华阁楼套房中时尚别致的蛋形浴 缸，这家酒店是个现代天堂。MrHiveKitchen 餐厅和Isika日间水疗中心也在这里，大都会 酒店就像皇冠大厦酒店稍为时尚一些的年轻 表亲，迎合年轻一代的商务人群。 无论你是来赌博、吃、喝、睡、水疗或 是购物，墨尔本皇冠能满足每个人一切的欲 望。◆

French connection Bistro guillaume is inspired by the neighbourhood bistros of france

In the lobby of Crown Towers, The Waiting Room’s afternoon tea is a showcase of pastry chef Roberto Molleman’s prodigious skill. Tiny edible pearls dress up apple and blueberry tartlets, bite-sized raspberry and lemon meringue pies are torched to perfection, and the White Lady pistachio sponge melts in your mouth. Save room for the petite espresso éclairs.

ROom service Beyond the restaurants, Crown carries the culinary theme into its hotel rooms.

Guillaume and Brahimi have taken over in-room dining at five-star Crown Towers, and the progression seems natural. “We spend most of our life in a hotel. [The menu] is an expression of what we would like to eat – really simple, fantastic classics, like the burger or club sandwich,” says Perry, who is renowned for his award-winning Rockpool Bar and Grill Wagyu Burger.

We’re not reinventing the wheel; classic dishes are classics because somewhere deep inside, before somebody destroyed them, they were really awesome. We want to bring their awesomeness back again.” And who doesn’t love a good room-service burger?

Of course, if you’re staying in one of the Crown Towers suites, you may prefer a candlelit dinner. That can also be arranged. The 449 luxury rooms and 32 villas have plenty of bling, from the chandeliers and TV sets above the bathtubs to the sparkling lights of a killer CBD view. Crown Towers is also one of the few Melbourne hotels to feature a pool, and like the rest of Crown, it is big and beautiful. A gym, a pool and the Crown Spa sit just below the tennis courts, which last year were used as the site of a temporary restaurant in reality TV series MasterChef.

Connected to Crown Towers by an above-ground luxury shopping arcade, Crown Metropol is the more modern counterpart. From the giant balls of timber perched in the lobby to the sleek, chic, egg-shaped bathtub in the luxury Loft suite, the hotel is a contemporary haven. Home to Mr. Hive Kitchen & Bar and ISIKA Day Spa, the Metropol is like the Tower’s younger, slightly cooler cousin and caters to the younger business crowd.

Whether you’re in town to gamble, eat, drink, sleep, spa or shop, Crown Melbourne caters to any and all. The fireballs are just the beginning. ◆

Perth Crown’s success has been replicated in perth.

Here are our picks if you happen to be in town...

Where to eat 美食 延续在墨尔本的成功，名厨尼尔·佩里（Neil Perry） 和纪尧姆·卜拉希（Guillaume Brahimi）在珀斯开 设了第二家别具特色的餐厅。可以到 Rockpool Bar and Grill餐厅尝试一下草饲牛肉和红枣挞、到 Bistro Guillaume餐厅或到珀斯Nobu餐厅参加法国品酒 会，那里还有皇冠的Silks中餐馆以及将以卡车形式到 达的Merrywell餐厅屡获殊荣的汉堡。 Banking on the success of their Melbourne counterparts, celebrity chefs Neil Perry and Guillaume Brahimi have replicated their signature restaurants in Perth. Try grass fed steak and date tart at Rockpool Bar and Grill, sit down for a French degustation at Bistro Guillaume or head to Nobu Perth. There’s also Silks, Crown’s Chinese restaurant, and The Merrywell’s award-winning burger is soon to arrive via a food truck.

Where to stay 住宿 珀斯拥有皇冠大都会酒店和皇冠滨海大道酒店。大 都会酒店坐落在天鹅河畔，设有户外游泳池和旁边 让人休憩的小屋。 Perth has its own Crown Metropol and a Crown Promenade. The Metropol sits on the Swan River and has an outdoor pool with cabanas.

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Home style Nanjing’s sifang art museum is famous for its cuttingedge experimental architecture

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C ha n g e o f a r t Already big spenders in the art world, China is now finding innovative ways to house it too, finds Sarah O’Meara

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magnificent Trojan warrior on horseback watches over guests from behind the reception desk of Beijing’s Hotel Éclat. The golden statue is just one of 36 Salvador Dali bronzes on display throughout the barely one-year-old hotel, interspersed casually among works by Warhol, Bacon, and Chinese contemporary art superstar Zeng Fanzhi. All are from hotel owner George Wong’s personal collection.

Few guests realise. Or if they do, they don’t let on. After all, who expects to encounter million-dollar artworks in a hotel reception?

Artist’s impression bharti kher’s ‘virus’ series at shanghai’s rockbund museum

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“ T h e p r o m ot i o n a n d p r ot e ct i o n of c u l t u r e i s i n c r e as i n g l y being led by b u s i n e ss m e n �

watch these spaces At the end of 2013, after a decade’s worth of work, the Sifang Art Museum in Laoshan National Park, just outside of Nanjing, finally opened. The exhibition space is part of an extravagant $164 million development conceived by real-estate tycoon Lu Jun and his 30-year-old son Lu Xun. Tucked away in the hills above the busy streets of thriving

Nanjing, the artistic enclave offers visitors a futuristic, natural retreat away from the concrete jungle of city life.

The site includes a hotel, an entertainment centre, and the Chinese International Practical Exhibition of Architecture – a collection of experimental homes designed by cutting-edge architects from around the world. Guests can choose to spend the day breathing in the fresh air while absorbing art and innovative building design, or opt to rent one of the luxury homes for a longer stay in the woods. A popular request is for a four-bedroom villa designed by provocative artist Ai Weiwei.

Lu Xun is responsible for curating the Sifang museum. He firmly believes people should be exposed to more art, and that its influence on society can be profound. “It is possible to effect change by placing really good contemporary art and architecture that takes a healthy, critical view of contemporary Chinese society, and the globalised world beyond,” he says.

Unlike the traditionally silent figures of China’s elite, Xun and other art benefactors are not shy about talking from the heart.

Indonesian-Chinese farming tycoon and art patron Budi Tek recently stated his desire to be remembered by his generation. He told the Wall Street Journal he hopes his soon-toopen Yuz Museum, situated in an old aircraft

modern art

But it could become more common. “The promotion and protection of culture is increasingly being led by businessmen who recognise the philanthropic value they can give back to the community,” explains Hotel Éclat’s general manager Wessel Krauss.

“It’s also part of a personal cultural journey which [for them] was not possible in the past.”

In China, there is no historical precedent for how modern art should be displayed. The world’s second largest art market may have turned over $14 billion dollars in 2012, but when it comes to building galleries to house the art, there’s a knowledge gap. For aspiring architects, the result is a blank canvas and, just as often, a blank cheque. Big, bold and hugely expensive privately financed galleries are popping up all over China, in boutique hotels, apartment blocks, national parks and repurposed aircraft hangars.

New kind of gallery The extravagant sifang art museum (below); and a quirky room at the hotel Éclat (bottom)

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Repurposed budi tek’S Yuz museum (below) is situated in an old aircraft hangar

hangar on the banks of Shanghai’s Huangpu River, will “reveal his identity.”

Certainly, the building alone, which has been redeveloped into a mammoth 97,000-square-foot space ready to display “mega works” from Tek’s private collection, is likely to make an impact. The billionaire collector plans to exhibit Adel Abdessemed’s planes – a sculpture that consists of three planes braided together – as part of his opening show. Tek has also brought in Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto to add a glass atrium to the front of the hangar. Facing out towards the Huangpu, the transparent green-hued cube glows with reflected light from the water.

Keep walking along the riverbank and you’ll find another private gallery due to open this year, one which is no less

visionary in scope. Financed by Shanghai super-collector couple Liu Yiqian and Wang Wei, the 33,000-square-metre space is the second ‘Long Museum’ they’ve built in the city and is three times larger than the original shopping-mall-turned-gallery in Pudong.

The enormous museum, built on the site of the former Longhua Airport, has two basement floors, a glass-roofed underground rock garden, a river-view restaurant and a concert hall. It will be stocked almost entirely from Wang and Liu’s private collection, reportedly worth $317 million.

American architect Steven Holl, who designed the Sifang exhibition space, says China’s gallery owners enjoy making bold statements. “When I propose something new to an American or European client they often want to see examples of where it has previously been done before,” he says, “Chinese clients like that ideas are new and have never been done elsewhere.”

changing times In the dynamic city of Guangzhou, where locals are used to a rapidly changing landscape, a private museum on top of an apartment block has still managed to make waves. Devised as a selling point for real estate, the four-year-old Times Museum has become a local cultural phenomenon.

“When I last visited, there were people just

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“ ch i n e s e c l i e n ts l i k e i t wh e n i d e as a r e new and ha v e n e v e r b e e n do n e e l s e wh e r e �

Artful escape sifang art museum (right) offers art lovers a retreat from city life

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coming to the museum to hang out,” says Clare Jacobson, author of New Museums In China. “[There were] young people after school hours on the porch deck and grandparents hanging out at the book store. It’s a great space.” Such is the museum’s popularity, visitors walk up 20 flights of stairs to visit rather than wait an hour for the elevator.

Private museums can also be a little more flexible in the work they show, adds the author. At Hotel Éclat, the collector’s art is certainly free to mingle with life.

Outside the boutique hotel, sculptures of wolves appear to prowl around tables and chairs. Inside, the newly opened ground floor lounge offers guests the chance to quietly read a newspaper while a pair of infamous Chen Wenling ‘Red Boy’ sculptures look on cheekily. Krauss explains: “By creating a hotel where art and design are fused in the

concept of the hotel, guests are able to enjoy art as a part of their lives rather than simply as museum pieces.”

As China’s growth slows, it’s hard to predict whether the elite’s appetite for expensive passion projects will continue. But for Lu Xun, his artistic journey has only just begun.

“I think great learning comes from working with these brilliant architects and artists.

It is truly a blessing to have had such an experience. There are many lessons I have learned, and many still to come.” ◆

Worth preserving deluxe pooL suite (opposite, top) and terrace (opposite, bottom) at hotel éclat; work by chen yifei at long museum (ABOVE); hotel Éclat exterior (bottom)

Seven of the best Hotel Éclat Beijing

Sifang Art Museum

9 Dong Da Qiao Road, Parkview Green Fang Cao Di, Chaoyang District, Beijing Open anytime to guests.

Public access may be slightly limited. eclathotels.com/beijing

9 Zhenqi Road, Nanjing Open Wed-Sun, 10am-5pm sifangartmuseum.org

Long Museum 3398 Longteng Avenue, Xuhui District, Shanghai Open Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm thelongmuseum.org

Rockbund Museum 20 Huqiu Lu, near Beijing Dong Lu Open Thurs-Sat, 10am-9pm; Tue, Wed, Sun, 10am-6pm rockbundartmuseum.org

Yuz Museum Former Longhua airport, Xuhui, Shanghai Museum to open May 2013 yuzf.org

Leo Xu Projects Bldg 3, 49 Fuxing Xi Lu, near Yongfu Lu Open Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm leoxuprojects.com

Times Museum Times Rose Garden, Huang Bian Bei Lu, Bai Yun Da Dao, Guangzhou Open Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm timesmuseum.org

甜甜 谷高中 位于蓝山区边缘的沃尔根谷，不只拥有五星级奢华的 一切，还对绿色环境有一个誓死不移的承诺

Sweet valley high For all its luxury and five-star touches, Wolgan Valley, on the edge of the Blue Mountains, has a diehard commitment to being green Words Alex Mead

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o be fair, Wolgan Valley does itself no favours.

It positions itself at the end of a quite beautiful two- to three-hour drive from Sydney, through the Blue Mountains and overlapping the borders of two densely forested national parks.

Expectations can only be raised to ridiculous levels as you wind your way up and down tree-lined, mountain roads with breathtaking gauges and canyons on either side. But while hopes of what lies ahead may soar as you draw nearer to your destination, what awaits is ready to meet every expectation.

After all, Wolgan Valley has a pool in every villa.

Obviously, that’s not the first thing you notice. As you approach the actual lodge – having been driven past the stables, the old-school windmills (that pump water from the dam) and through one of the two rivers that traverse the 4,000 acre estate – you find yourself in the most beautiful of forest-covered canyons.

Stretching out in front of you is a land that has carved itself out among the mountains, filled with all kinds of flora and fauna.

It’s no small wonder the four local albino wallaroos can always be found on the estate, ready to pose for a picture. Why would they leave? The main lodge, meanwhile, is perfectly in keeping with its surrounds, its stone and timberclad frame hugging the hills and almost apologetic to the wildlife for being there in the first place.

The 40 individual Federationstyle lodges, generously spaced apart in rows, facing the canyon in front of the lodge, are equally unobtrusive, and the decadence contained within is certainly not given away by the exterior’s modest appearance. It does, of course, have the five-star touches you’d expect at this level, with walk-in wardrobe, deep-buttoned chairs, custom-made bed, waterfall shower (with skylight), giant tellies and fully stocked minibar to name but a few.

But what sets it apart are a couple of neat touches.

Firstly, you have two mountain bikes waiting for you to jump on and explore the bush on your doorstep. And, secondly, we come to those aforementioned pools. As if the luxurious main pool with its valley view isn’t enough, you can make a splash without leaving your room, courtesy of your own private, 7m x 2.5m, temperature-controlled pool.

It even has full-length windows that fold right back to allow you to bathe al fresco should the weather allow.

Wolgan Valley wonders (clockwise from above) A pool in every villa; wildlife safaris; heritage homestead fireside chat; private dining room; resort at dusk; succulent tenderloin; the resort’s main pool

“ S t r etchi n g o u t i n f r o n t of y o u is a l a n d ca r ved o u t of the mo u n tai n s , fi l l ed with f l o r a a n d fa u n a ” As you’re taking in the views, it’s nice to know you can do so guilt-free (unless you’ve over-indulged at breakfast, lunch or dinner... or all three) as, amazingly, the resort gained carbon-neutral certification a mere three months after opening. Before the resort arrived, the land was used for little more than a few hobby farms and private holdings, but cattle farming had taken its toll – something Wolgan Valley intends to put right. “We want the area to be like it was before humans were here,” explains Joost Heymeijer, general manager at Wolgan Valley. “We wanted sustainability, conservation, history, a regional organic food philosophy and always to be aware of our carbon footprint.

We’re genuine in what we do.”

As part of the resort’s plans to reinvigorate the area, it has planted more than 200,000 trees and counting. “The Wolgan Valley river alone has a lot of work to be done,” Heymeijer says. “The farmers stripped all the vegetation around it to allow the cows to drink water.

We’re trying to amend that. It could cost up to $2 million. We also spend about $25,000 a month on noxious weed eradication and have strong plans for feral animal control.

We’re forming the Wolgan Valley Conservation Society, which will allow all landholders in the area to become part of the effort.”

With conservation experts on staff and a daily ‘conservation hour’ where guests can get involved in planting trees or nature walks, Wolgan Valley is all about being green. Along with the wallabies and wombats there are also 20 other mammals, almost 100 kinds of birds, 40 or so different reptiles and many species that have become extremely rare such as southern brown bandicoots, glossy black cockatoos and yellow-bellied gliders. It’s a haven for animals as well as luxury-seeking humans, it seems.

“What makes Wolgan Valley special is that it’s breathtakingly beautiful,” says Heymeijer. “It has thousands of years of aboriginal history, Charles Darwin visited here twice, we’re bordering a 1,000,000 acre heritage site, and we have a whole palette of experiences. When you’re standing on the verandah of the homestead, watching the mist burn off the valley, it’s something very special indeed.”

And with that, you can do nothing but agree. u

Luxury touches (Opposite, clockwise from top left) Room service; spa rela x ation room; native flowers; heritage suite pool; lovely desserts; main homestead and pool; (ABOVE) local White and grey wallaroos

“小袋鼠、袋熊、20种 哺乳动物、100种鸟 类、40多种爬行动物以 及许多罕见的物种” 20多万棵树木，并仍在种植中。赫梅加说：“我们种植 了许多树木作为4,000亩逆向工程的一部分，单是沃尔 根谷河已经要进行大量的工程。农民把河边的植物全部 除掉，为了让牛只能喝水。我们正在努力地进行修改， 所需地花费可能高达200 万元。每个月我们还花 大约25,000元来铲除有 害地杂草，对控制野生 动物也有强大的计划。 “目前我们正在 组织沃尔根谷保育协 会（Wolgan Valley Conservation Society） ，让该地区的所有土地 拥有者能成为保育山谷 的一分子。” 沃尔根谷致力成为一 片充满绿色的地方，不 仅聘请了保育专家，每 天还有“保育一小时” 让客人可以参与植树或 在大自然中散步。这片 大自然中住了众多“居 民”，除了小袋鼠和袋 熊之外还有20种哺乳动 物、100种鸟类、40多 种爬行动物以及许多罕 见的物种如澳棕短鼻袋 狸 、辉凤头鹦鹉及黄腹袋鼯。这里是动物也是寻找奢 华体验的人类的天堂。赫梅加说：“让沃尔根谷特别的 是其让人惊叹的美丽，它拥有几千年的原住民历史，查 尔斯·达尔文（Charles Darwin）两次到访这里，还有 我们富有经验的团队以及正在接壤一个百万英亩的遗产 区。当您站在度假村的走廊，看着在弥漫的烟雾中若隐 若的山谷现是一个非常特别的体验。” 对于这个，除了赞同以外真的没有别的回应了。◆

m o r e i n f o r m at i o n 如欲了解更多有关沃尔根谷度假村资讯，请浏览

wolganvalley.com For more information on Wolgan Valley Resort, visit wolganvalley.com

wolg a n va l l e y

沃

尔根谷（Wolgen Valley）距悉尼不到三小时 车程，穿过蓝山以及两个森林茂密国家公园 重叠的边界。沿着绿树成荫、群山环绕、崎 岖的路径前进，不管是车上的仪表还是车外的峡谷都让 人为之惊叹。随着越来越靠近目的地会让您的期待也越 来越高，而正在等待您的是已经预备好要来满足您的每 个期待，包括每栋别墅中的游泳池。 当然，开车经过了马厩、旧式风车（从大坝泵水出 来的那种）以及两条穿越4000英亩地的河流的其中一条 后，来到这个被丛林覆盖，美丽非常峡谷，接触到温泉 度假村时，游泳池并不会是您第一件会留意到的事。群 山巍峨，在您前面的是一片连绵起伏的土地，上面铺满 各种鲜花野草和动物，小袋鼠、袋鼠及岩大袋鼠更是随 处可见。在这里能常常发现罕有的白色袋鼠，还摆姿势 准备好让人照相。置身在这样美丽的丛林中，它们又怎 么舍得离开呢。度假村跟周边的环境完全融合，其石头 及木质包层的框架的设计 还让人以为它是原来野生 环境的一部分。 度假村有40幢面对着 峡谷的联邦风格独立套 房，每幢房子之间的空间 宽裕，外表低调不起眼的 小屋却拥有着五星级的一 切，包括步入式衣帽间、 扣式椅子、定做的床、瀑 布淋浴（带天窗）、双浴 室水槽（五星级的地方喜 欢叫它作“浴室柜”）、 装满食物的迷你吧、超巨 型电视等，可是真正使之 穎脫而出的是几样别出心 裁的东西。第一，两部自 行车让您随时探索丛林。 第二是之前提到的游泳 池，倘若拥有山谷景色的 豪华主泳池未能满足您， 那这个7米×2.5米的恒温 私家游泳池让您足不出门 便能享受戏水之乐。它甚 至设有能往后折叠的全长窗户能让您在天气明朗的日子 来个户外沐浴。 开业后仅仅三个月便拿到碳中性认证的沃尔根谷度 假村，让您陶醉在景色之中并不需要对自己的身体感到 愧疚（除非您过度沉迷于早餐、午餐、晚餐、或是三者 皆是）。度假村在建成之前，这片土地是被私人持有或 是用作业余农场的。沃尔根谷的总经理赫梅加（Joost Heymeijer）说：“我们希望这个地区像是在人类来到 之先已经存在，有些地方是非常有限的，情况就好像是 看这里有棵棕榈树，那里是海滩，真是漂亮。我们希望 建造的是一个可持续发展、保存、有历史、拥有地区有 机食品理念的地方。我们付出真诚在所做的事情上。” 重振该区是度假村计划的一部分，所以他们种植了

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Memory lanes

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Beneath the skyscrapers and bright lights of Shanghai, search out a traditional neighbourhood and you’ll find friendly locals with tales to tell and – if you’re lucky – dumplings to share, learns Alex Mead Photography Trent van der Jagt

M

rs Yang is cooking al fresco in her pink fluffy slippers, as she does most evenings.

She’s lived in Jing’an Villas for nigh on 30 years, and the alley has always been an extension to her house. Her kitchen backs onto the lane, but she has set up a little gas stove outside and a makeshift work bench to chop the veg. Above her, on a cable 10ft up and zig-zagging its way down the street, she hangs a basket of radishes, drying them so they’ll bring some much-needed flavour to her morning congee.

She hooks it down from its lofty perch so we can try some: bitter, salty – the congee will certainly be getting some extra punch.

Across the way from her sizzling pans and bubbling pots, she has created a little garden.

She’s growing tomatoes, chrysanthemums, roses... assorted things to either eat, drink or just look pretty. There’s also a myna bird in a cage, which is cheerily asking us, in Mandarin, ‘Who are you, where are you going?’ Even the birds, it seems, are friendly in Jing’an.

Back to tonight’s meal, and this one is special. The sizzle is emanating from some

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A day in the streets the rows of jing’an villas are filled with people from all walks of life

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In fine feather Bird cages holding mynas can be found on the streets of jing’an

“ the shi k u me N ho u sin g was p r icey b u t came with the p r otection of the f r ench a r my ” fatty duck legs, definitely a treat for a Monday night. “It’s a big dinner,” she tells us, wiping her hands on her red check apron, before adding, “my daughter is coming for tea tonight.” Nipping back into her ‘other’ kitchen, she returns with some pork, which she tosses into another pan with some ginger, soy sauce and shallots. “I love fish, but tonight is special so I’m making something different. My grandson’s coming too.”

As we discuss Mrs Yang’s family dinner, her next-door neighbour, Mr Fan – a wellweathered octogenarian – brings an equally well-worn chair into the middle of the lane and flops down in it to read his newspaper while keeping abreast of all the latest tea-time Jing’an action. “I still feel comfortable here and it’s better than any apartment,” explains Mrs Yang, giving a nod to Mr Fan. “There are so many friends around, and if I ever need anything I only have to shout and every neighbour would be here. People don’t care about others in apartment blocks.”

With the arrival of Mrs Yang’s daughter – complete with inquisitive looks as to why we’re questioning and taking photographs of her mother – we move on.

Block party clockwise from above: a jing’an local; mrs yang and her ‘special’ dinner; making dim sum; the villas

if walls could talk Once upon a time, the majority of Shanghainese would live in communities like Jing’an. The style of house dates back to the Taiping uprising in the 1800s, when upperclass folk – faced with Hong Xiuquan and his rebels – flocked to Shanghai seeking shelter and the security provided by the Europeans.

Not ones to miss a trick, the Brits created gated communities of two- or three-storey terrace villas with high-walled courtyards, mixing European building methods with Chinese style.

The end result was shikumen housing. “The rich came to Shanghai but they had nowhere to stay. There were no hotels,” explains our

guide Melody, of Wendy Wu Tours. “The houses combined British building with local elements and were typified with black doors surrounded by four flagstones. They were pricey, but as they came with protection from the French army it was a price worth paying.”

As time went on, what was once a spacious villa with three floors and a courtyard suddenly became occupied by another family, and then another. “Flats were divided, then divided again,” explains Melody. “First one floor, one family, then before you know you

Story time

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Every resident of jing’an has a tale to tell anyone with the time to listen

had 72 people across 300 square metres – hence the saying ‘72 house guests’.”

While Jing’an Villas were built long after Xiuquan had departed this earth, they’re certainly in the shikumen style. But like the originals, comparatively few remain today. As recent as the 1970s and ’80s, most people in Shanghai lived in similar housing estates, but the rise and (literal) rise of apartment blocks has meant that these days only around 20 per cent of city folk live in places like Jing’an. And that’s a generous estimate.

caring community

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Point taken Mr li (ABOVE) has more than a few thoughts to share

Mrs Yang isn’t the only one cooking; it seems every other terrace has something bubbling away. Strolling between the rows, you can see why Mr Fan takes his paper outside; the villas are a hive of activity. Considering the surlyfaced reception you get from the guard at the estate’s gates, everybody else seems perfectly content, especially Mr Fan, who’s now chatting to three bobble-hatted ladies who’ve stopped for a chat. What they’re discussing is anyone’s guess – it could be the latest gossip they heard from the hairdresser on the next row, or something that happened at the doctor’s adjoining the Jinguan Red Cross Society, which is near the library, also on the same row.

This isn’t your average housing block. It has everything you could want. The day’s newspapers are put up on noticeboards, alongside signs with some useful health advice: “When you feel dizzy, call 120, then use a wet towel on your head,” translates Melody.

On another row, there’s a little outdoor gym for pensioners. It’s not exactly Miami’s Muscle Beach, but the steppers and arm-pulleys will keep you mobile for sure.

Another sign: ‘Show your love, show warm hands, help poor people’. Not all of them are advice-based, some – like the red-and-gold script on one door – are just people sharing good news, such as a daughter’s marriage.

There’s little that goes on inside Jing’an that

shanghai

“ M r s yan g isn ’ t the on l y one coo k in g ; eve r y othe r te r r ace has somethin g b u bb l in g away ”

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Sweet Melody To genuinely get the best out of a visit to a community like Jing’an and meet the people and hear their stories, a local guide is essential. Our brilliant guide Melody was from Wendy Wu Tours (wendywutours.com.au), which offers a wide-range of tour packages for Shanghai and China.

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Tw o f o r s l e e p Pudong Shangri-La

Grand Hyatt

Right opposite the Bund, the Pudong Shangri-La not only has the best views in town (Jade on 36 is the place for sunset cocktails) but with two adjoining towers (the River Wing and Grand Tower), you get double the facilities and a choice. shangri-la.com

Situated in the Jin Mao Tower, the Grand Hyatt ticks all the right boxes for a business hotel.

The location is in the heart of the city, but the facilities (including the ‘sky pool’ with views of the city skyline) are enough to keep you busy on wet weather days. shanghai.grand.hyatt.com

doesn’t seem to be based around helping people.

Melody tells us that about 4.5 million people in Shanghai are above 65, ‘and they all seem to live here.’ But there are young couples strolling home too – Europeans as well as Chinese. As we walk, a well-dressed French couple cross paths with two purple-haired, goth teens.

Everyone is eager to talk. Mrs Chau shuffles over to us in her brown moccasins and what looks like about eight layers of clothing (it is, to be fair, a chilly Shanghai evening) to tell her tale. Having moved to Shanghai from rural China to be a nanny 50 years ago, she loved it so much she never went back. “I love being surrounded by people,” she says, “and my children are only two blocks away so it’s perfect for me.

Other neighbourhoods are changing all over Shanghai, but not here.”

local hospitality It certainly seems that way as you tour Jing’an Villas. Flowers are carved into the flagstones pavements and on the sides of walls: “It’s the makers’ mark,” explains Melody. “They date back to about 1926.”

Which was probably around the time that Mr Li started putting together the stock for his ‘grocery store’. Something may have been lost in translation, as this store is unlike any you’ve seen. More a big cupboard than

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“ mo r e a c u pboa r d than shop, it ’ s an a l a d d in ’ s cave of thin g amaji g s an d thin g amamobs ”

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shop, it’s an Aladdin’s cave of bits, bobs, thingamajigs and thingamamobs. Wooden tennis racquets, toothbrushes, pegs, books, games, hooks, boxes of this, bags of that – there’s little he hasn’t thought to stock.

Except for, it seems, groceries. Nonetheless, he’s as friendly as they come. “He loves the architecture, he loves the style, he says it’s so tasteful,” explains Melody as Mr Li bends her ear, before breaking out in song for what seems to be the national anthem. “He loves the villas, but there have been some changes, so he’s quoting the national anthem,” explains Melody, reading our thoughts.

Noticing our accents, Mr Li’s neighbour heads over brandishing an Aussie passport. “I was born here, but I went to Sydney to study. I loved it there,” explains the neighbour, who turns out to be called Ellen Lee. “I only came back because my mother was ill – she’s 94. I’ve said to her that when I get her to 100, I’m going back to Australia. We can meet up then, yes?”

Taking everything in and finished with his singing, Mr Li gathers his thoughts while eating a kiwi fruit with a spoon. Meanwhile another Jing’an resident, a smartly dressed 90-year-old, wanders over, this time with some beauty advice. “He says your photographer is very good-looking,” translates Melody, “But if he wants to look as good he does when he’s 90, then he should use this certain type of oil and rub it on his face every night.”

Advice duly noted, we look to move on, as

shanghai

time has moved strangely fast at Jing’an. The stop was only intended to be for a quick half hour, but we’ve already been here for three hours chatting and are now laden with tales from the locals to take away with us.

Meanwhile, Mr Li’s wife has spent the past half hour neatly folding dollops of pork and spinach into little wonton parcels, and now they’re setting his work table for dinner. As it turns out, we’re to be the guests. Melody says we couldn’t possibly, but Mr Li is insistent and we sit down at our metal bowls while Mrs Li spoons the slippery little dumplings into a bath of steaming chicken broth. Nothing tastes as good as homemade food, and if Mrs Yang’s cooking is half as good as Mrs Li’s then you have to wonder why her daughter doesn’t come home more often. It’s a genuine taste of traditional Shanghai, in every sense.

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“ M r s l i spoons the s l ippe r y d u mp l in g s into a hot bath of chic k en b r oth ”

When you leave Jing’an, you head straight out into busy Nanjing Road with its fluorescent lights and neon signs. It’s a stark reminder of the other Shanghai – the one that’s forever developing and moving forward. “Since I can remember, there’s not a day when I’ve woken up to anything but the sound of construction in Shanghai,” explains Melody.

And yet, in Jing’an and other places like it, the city still has another side to it – one that visitors rarely see, yet is so worth seeking.

One full of caring signage, neighbourly love, family celebrations, inquisitive birds and, most importantly, the best dumplings in town. ◆

Precious parcels Mrs li prepares her dumpling dinner

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Streets of gold

Australia was shaped by its golden heritage – through both the towns that blossomed and the people who came from far and wide to join the rush Words Fiona Harper

Photo by Getty Images

gold rush

金光赫赫

无论是透过澳大利亚的黄金遗产而 创建的城镇还是因着它而来到这片 土地的人民，是黄金遗产把这个国 家塑造成现有的模样

1

Gold town A modern Recreation of life at sovereign hill, ballarat, Victoria

区，当第一块金出现时有大 9世纪中期当黄金在澳 约1,000个矿工在翻土。两 大利亚的丛林中发出细 微的声音时，澳大利亚 年之后淘金热传播到各处， 超过20,000名矿工从世界各 是一个作为关押犯人和服役 的地方，当时罪犯及歹徒占 地纷纷前来。1861年中国 移民占据了超过百分之三的 了大部分的人口。犯人被释 放后有些会选择留在这个新 人口，大概有40,000人。他 家园，成为自由的开拓者； 们会保留自己的文化传统， 有些人去采金，像约翰·迪 每当在一个地区定居时便会 建设公所。男女老幼从墨 森（John Deason）和他 的朋友理查德·奥茨猎金 尔本徒步、骑马或坐拉车经 过115公里艰辛的旅程来到 （Richard Oates）就在维 多利亚莫拉嘎（Moliagul） 巴拉腊特。他们并没有因长 途的旅程而放弃，惊人的发 一颗树的树根下3厘米处 现如重达69公斤的“迎宾金 掘到属于他们的财富“欢 块”（Welcome Nugget） 迎陌生人”（Welcome 还增加了他们的激情。 Stranger）——是目前发现 当初充满帐篷的城市最 最大的天然金块重约72公 终还要让位给高楼大厦。然 斤。成千上万的人们也纷纷 在不同的地方挖掘，希望也 而有许多仍然存留至今，为 澳大利亚的淘金历史提供了 掘到他们的黄金梦。 在巴拉腊特（Ballarat） 一扇引人入胜的窗口。

gold rush

W

hen the first whispers of gold in the Australian bush filtered through in the mid-1850s, men who had few prospects were enticed by the tantalising opportunity of riches. At the time Australia was populated mostly by a motley bunch of convicts serving their time incarcerated at notorious penal settlements like Port Arthur. On release, many chose to stay in their new homeland, becoming free settlers.

In the Ballarat fields around 1,000 miners were toiling the soil when the first nuggets surfaced.

Two years later gold fever spread and over 20,000 miners arrived from across the globe. Around 40,000 Chinese immigrants made up over three per cent of the population in 1861. They retained cultural traditions, building Joss Houses wherever they settled. Families made the arduous 115km trip from Melbourne by foot or horse and cart. Major discoveries like the Welcome Nugget, weighing 69kg, only increased the fervour. Tent cities soon gave way to buildings, morphing into lively, if somewhat lascivious, towns as long as the earth still coughed up the yellow. Many still exist today, providing a fascinating window into Australia’s golden history...

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gold rush

卡尔古利，西澳大利亚州 位于卡尔古利著名的黄金地段，乍看之下很难相信这是 地球上拥有最高价值的平方英里。在闪耀的宝藏被曝光 的一百二十年后，金色的金属仍然是卡尔古利存在的主 要原因，不过今天的卡尔古利比那时充满不羁的淘金者 的辉煌岁月更为文明。当年为了满足旅客的需要而兴起 的100家酒店及啤酒厂至今仍然存在。 据说曾与位于卡尔古利的皇宫酒店（Palace Hotel)招待员有外遇的前矿工赫伯特·胡佛（Herbert Hoover）写了一首诗感慨道被黄金的魔力迷惑。不管 是否有被黄金地段（Golden Mile）迷惑，胡佛后来还 是成为了美国第三十一任总统。 卡尔古利的淘金热归功于一名幸运的二十岁爱尔兰人 帕迪·汉南（Paddy Hannan），汉南发现的金区因藏 金量丰富而影响重大，从此闻名世界一直延续至今。

“在一棵树的树 根下掘到属于他 们的财富”

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Kalgoorlie, Western Australia It’s hard to believe at first glance, but this patch of dirt within the sun-parched soil and saltbush scrublands of Kalgoorlie’s famed golden mile just happens to be the richest square mile on the planet. One hundred and twenty years after its glittering treasure was exposed, golden metal remains a major reason for Kalgoorlie’s existence. But Kalgoorlie is far more civilised today than during its unruly gold digger glory days. Back then the developing town tinkled to the tune of thirsty prospectors. Whether celebrating success or drowning in failure, beer flowed freely.

Thievery and thuggery were rife. Friendships flourished, romance bloomed. Almost 100 hotels and a handful of breweries sprung up to keep thirsty travellers sated. They still do.

In the foyer of the Palace Hotel next to an elaborately carved, mammoth mirror, former miner Herbert Hoover lamented: “I spent my soul in kisses, crushed upon your scarlet mouth / The mellow moon bewitched me with its wizardry gold” after reputedly falling for a barmaid.

Whether bewitched by a beguiling Golden Mile beauty or not, Hoover later went on to become the 31st President of the United States.

Kalgoorlie’s gold rush is attributed to lucky Irishman Paddy Hannan. A poor 20-year-old

Keeping on miners can still find gold in kalgoorlie’S Soil, even today

immigrant, he prospected at Ballarat, Bendigo and New Zealand before heading west to try his luck. Fortuitously stopping to shoe his horse after leaving Coolgardie, the handful of nuggets he found while delayed set off a staggering hunt for gold that continues today. kalgoorlietourism.com

位于巴拉腊特的疏芬山（Sovereign Hill）是一个露天 博物馆，展示淘金热时代的一切包括重建的中国村庄， 重现当时40,000名被淘金热所吸引而移民到异国，他们 当时的生活。移民的人有如来自加州的双语谈判员Lee Heng Jacjung，另外有些人是中医、商家、园丁以及 餐馆老板。一名考古学家在本迭戈（Bendigo）附近挖 掘前中国人的营地，发现了在中国境外其中一个最大的 制砖窑炉。 1854年引进了矿工牌照以控制采矿者的权益，一 众矿工因此起来反抗。在接下来的战斗中有27人死 亡，被称为尤里卡栅栏抗争（Battle of the Eureka Stockade）。心怀不满的矿工以澳大利亚国旗上的南 十字星起誓“我们在南十字星前发誓，将彼此帮助，誓 死维护我们的权利和自由”这份朋友兄弟之情从此进入 到澳大利亚的文化当中，激动人心。

Ballarat, Victoria Sovereign Hill at Ballarat is an outdoor museum capturing the gold rush era, including a recreated Chinese village. Wander past rough-hewn huts, canvas tents and a

consecrated temple to learn of life on foreign soil for the 40,000 or so Chinese immigrants lured by gold fever. Some, like bilingual negotiator Lee Heng Jacjung, arrived by way of the Californian gold fields equipped with connections within the Chinese community and sound prospecting knowledge. Other arrivals worked as herbalists, merchants, market gardeners and restaurateurs. An archaeological dig on a former Chinese camp near Bendigo a few years ago unearthed, amongst other artefacts, one of the largest brickmaking kilns ever found outside of China.

Figures are a little sketchy on the extent of the Ballarat fields given that trading on the black market was common, but output is estimated to be around $10 billion in today’s terms. But it didn’t come easy. In 1854 miners revolted against the introduction of a miner’s licence that controlled prospectors’ rights. The ensuing battle, in which 27 men died, became known as the Battle of the Eureka Stockade.

Disaffected miners consecrated the Australian flag, swearing allegiance to the Eureka Flag, which featured the Southern Cross on a blue background: ‘We swear by the Southern Cross to stand truly by each other and fight to defend our rights and liberties,’ thus sealing the bond of mateship forever into the Australian culture. At Ballarat, a nightly sound and light show, Blood on the Southern Cross, recreates this dramatic moment in Australian history. sovereignhill.com.au

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巴拉腊特，维多利亚州

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Storied history Ballarat was the site of the infamous eureka rebellion in 1854

Bathurst, New South Wales Many know Bathurst purely for the petrolhead’s nirvana that is the annual Bathurst 1000 race, held on Mt Panorama. However, it’s also home to some of Australia’s most important intact 19th and early 20th century architecture.

Old Government House is one example preceding the gold rush era, which produced such beauties as the Bathurst Courthouse, Railway Station and St Stanislaus College.

Stay a while in one of the many restored private mansions, now luxurious guesthouses amidst immaculately landscaped gardens.

Bathurst holds the distinction of being the site of Australia’s first official gold discovery in 1823, some eight years after the area was settled. Government surveyor James McBrien fortuituously stumbled onto nuggets in the Fish River. It was another 28 years before gold fever came to Bathurst though, with traded nuggets transported to Sydney via the road through the Blue Mountains. visitbathurst.com.au

科林纳，塔斯马尼亚州 金国一向被形容为干燥、尘土飞扬、易晒伤以及不结 果的地方，坐落在澳大利亚最大的温带雨林塔吉尼 （Tarkine）的科林纳却是个例外。宁静又迅速流动着的 皮曼河（Pieman River）的河水呈现深绿色，但其实早 在1870年却是散发着金色的光芒。在北岸的塔吉尼酒店 （Tarkine Hotel）创造了一个高度认证的生态野外退隐的 地方。下榻于拥有粗糙地板、倾斜的天花板以及歪斜墙 壁的古老的酒吧，不难想象早年这里是个神秘的森林。 19世纪70年代后期的皮曼是海上一条重要的高速 公路，让航行船舶往宽阔的海洋前进以及是一个危险 河口。森林被砍伐，河畔两旁迅速地兴建建筑物，还 有两家酒吧包括用水松来建成的Star Hotel。随着淘 金热减退，酒吧也被拆除并搬迁到另外一个小镇兹汉 （Zeehan）。

Corinna, Tasmania

巴瑟斯特， 新南威尔斯州 提到巴瑟斯特，许多人便会想起一年一度在帕诺拉马山 （Mount Panorama）举行的巴瑟斯特1000耐力接力 赛。但同时它也是澳大利亚十九世纪和二十世纪早期一 些最重要的建筑所在地，保存至今仍然完好无缺，如旧 政府大楼、法院大楼、火车站及圣斯坦尼斯洛斯学院。 巴瑟斯特是澳大利亚在1823年第一次正式发现金 矿的地方。政府测量师詹姆斯·麦克布赖恩（James McBrien）在鱼河（Fish River）无意中发现了金块。这 是发生在淘金热来到巴瑟斯特的28年前，通过到蓝山的 路把黄金运到悉尼作交易。

Corinna is the exception to the rule that says gold country is dry and dusty, sunburnt and sterile; the west coast of Tasmania is anything but. The lush Tarkine forest, draped in delicate moss, displays every shade of green imaginable. Tasmania’s arboreal poster child, the Huon pine, still grows on the banks of the Pieman River. Tranquil yet swift flowing, the river is a deep bottle green, but back in the 1870s it shimmered with gold.

On the north bank restored miners’ and loggers’ huts sit alongside more recent cabins and the Tarkine Hotel, creating a highly credentialed eco wilderness retreat. Bedding down in the ancient pub with its rough-cut floorboards, sloping ceilings and walls that aren’t quite

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vertical, it’s easy to imagine times long past in this mystical forest. Two moss-covered headstones on the southern bank add to the intrigue.

During the late 1870s the Pieman was a significant marine highway for sailing ships forging through wild seas and the hazardous river mouth, steaming upstream as far as Hells Gates. Forest was felled and buildings sprung up on either side of the river with two pubs, including the Star Hotel, which was built entirely out of Huon pine. As gold fever diminished the pub was dismantled and relocated to Zeehan. corinna.com.au

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查特斯堡，昆士兰州 位于汤斯维尔（Townsville）西边一个半小时的查特 斯堡曾经是昆士兰州的第二大城市。宽阔的林荫大道 依然存在，内里有商店、银行及酒店如皇家私人酒店 （Royal Private Hotel）又名为查特斯堡第一夫人塔 （First Lady of Charters Towers），还有雄伟的遗产建 筑证券交易所商场（Stock Exchange Arcade）。 当查特斯堡证券交易所商场进行交易的时候（于 1916年关闭），淘金客在尘土飞扬的宽阔街道上拉着马 拉车，他们的眼睛闪烁着被黄金所引发的兴奋。显然， 有些人从来没有离开过，而当地人对这群人所创造的黄 金幽灵历史路径（Ghosts of Gold Heritage）引以为 傲。如在公园酒店（Park Hotel）心碎的29岁女子、世 界戏剧院（World Theatre）被谋杀的商人或是具争议 性的北矿工报社的编辑。

Charters Towers, Queensland An hour and a half west of Townsville, Charters Towers was once the second largest city in Queensland. Wide shady boulevards remain, lined with ornate double-storey stores, banks and hotels such as the Royal Private Hotel, known as the First Lady of Charters Towers. Grand old heritage-listed Stock Exchange Arcade, with its striking barrel-vaulted portico above a tessellated floor, has been carefully restored.

While the Charters Towers Stock Exchange was trading (it closed in 1916), broad dusty

streets were choked with horse-drawn carriages driven by prospectors, their eyes glinting with gold-fuelled excitement. Some, apparently, never left. Locals are proud of the restless spirits that linger, creating a Ghosts of Gold heritage trail across the city that traces past characters like the brokenhearted 29-year-old woman at the Park Hotel, a murdered businessman at the World Theatre (the bloodstained table where he was killed remains in situ), or the controversial Editor of the Northern Miner newspaper. charterstowers.qld.gov.au

Bank on it Built in 1981, the bank of commerce is a product of charters towers’ golden past

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黄金历史时间表 Timeline of Australia's golden history 1823 首次记录澳大利亚发现黄金，位于巴瑟斯特附近的鱼河 First recorded Australian gold discovery at Fish River near Bathurst

1851 黄金被发现在巴瑟斯特北部的阿斐，随后展开淘金热。 为响应淘金热热潮，维多利亚州州长拉特罗布颁发200 磅悬赏金予在墨尔本200英里内发现黄金的淘金者 Gold discovered at Ophir, north of Bathurst, starting the gold rush. In response Victorian Governor La Trobe issued a 200 pound reward for gold discovered within 200 miles of Melbourne

1852 370,000人移民到澳大利亚，使移民人口增加至77,000 。随后停止了从英国驱逐犯人到澳大利亚，原因是在淘 金热期间把囚犯运送到殖民地是一个不恰当的惩罚 370,000 immigrants arrive adding to the population of 77,000. Subsequently, deportation from England to Australia ceases on the grounds that it’s inappropriate punishment to transport prisoners to a colony in the midst of a gold rush

1854 尤里卡栅栏抗争 Battle of the Eureka Stockade

1858 于巴拉腊特（维多利亚州）发现重69公斤的金块 69kg Welcome nugget found at Ballarat (VIC)

1869 在本迭戈（维多利亚州）的西边采到“欢迎陌生人”， 一块重72公斤的金块 72kg Welcome Stranger nugget found at Moliagul, 60 km west of Bendigo (VIC)

1871 黄金被发现在塔山（现在的查特斯堡） Gold found at Towers Hill (now Charters Towers)

1883 在科林纳掘到塔斯马尼亚州最巨型的金块 Tasmania's largest gold nugget found at Corinna

1893 帕迪·汉南在卡尔古利发现黄金 Paddy Hannan finds gold near Kalgoorlie

In on the act actors play the role of 19th century gold miners at sovereign hill

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iwc

万国表 IWC万国表海洋时计系列推出的新款腕表拥 有高达30巴的防水功能、钛金属表壳及表盘 上的直条纹装饰，证明潜水腕表不仅是功能性 单品，并且也是一种时尚。 Water-resistant to 30 bar and steel cased with depth gauge, IWC’s 2014 Collection of Aquatimers proves that diving watches are not just functional, they are also a fashionable. Aquatimer Chronograph edition Galapagos Islands, $13,000, iwc.com.au

Most wanted

everything luxury — from one-off designer pieces to lavish cars

ticket to ryde 皇冠国际即将推出新物业Viva，位于Ryde的住宅为住客提供每天也是度 假般的生活模式，设有桑拿浴室、水疗中心、健身房和无边游泳池。 Fancy living just an elevator ride from a sauna, spa, state-of-the-art gym and infinity pool. With its new Ryde Apartments, Viva by Crown allows its residents to live like they’re on holiday every day. From $630,000, vivabycrown.com.au

Here’s Johnnie! 尊尼获加蓝牌推出的限量款奢华威士忌行李箱是让您 在旅途中避免打破一瓶威士忌的明智之选。 Want to avoid breaking a bottle of whisky in transit?

Try an Alfred Dunhill travel trunk that has been designed to transport a limited-edition bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue Label. $9,300, johnniewalker.com.au

Derby day 迪奥2014Homme秋冬系列推出全 新的Derby系带鞋，其独特的设计 游走在休闲风及正式风之间。 Is it a sneaker? Is it a shoe? Dior blurs the line between casual and formal with its latest Derby shoe from the Homme Autumn/Fall 2014 collection. $POA, dior.com.au

Black beauties 开车旅行再也不必烦恼要把行李挤进后车厢。路易 威登与宝马联手定制一套采用碳纤维复合材料而成 的一套箱包，跟BMW i8超级跑车完美契合。 Gone are the days of having to squeeze your luggage into the car on a road trip. Louis Vuitton has teamed up with BMW to create a tailor-made set of luggage for the plug-in hybrid BMW i8.

Each of the four carbon-black bags fits perfectly to the i8’s seats. $POA, louisvuitton.com.au

news

time out Jean-Sebastien Robicquet, creator of CîROC vodka and Master Distiller, talks spirits...

Material girl 从鲜见的材料中寻找灵感，香奈儿的最新手提包以有机玻璃 为主材料，就是其出众的系列新加入的成员之一。 Finding inspiration from unlikely materials, Chanel's Plexiglas minaudière bag is the latest to join its exceptional collection. $POA, chanel.com

Turn of the century 玛莎拉蒂为庆祝100周 年打 造全新概念车——Alf ieri。公司表示2+2 双门跑车将有可能是未 来取代目前的Gran Turismo跑车系列。 To celeb rate its 100 th an nivers ary, Ma serati has cre ate d a new co ncept ca r, the Alf ieri. Th e co mp any says the 2+2 co up e is wh at a future replacem ent for the curre nt Granturism o co uld loo k like . ma serati alfieri.com

Choosing a vodka...

Vodka can be made from agriculture, such as grapes, or from raw material, like grain. You have to ask yourself, which would you rather chew? Vodka distilled from grape, like CÎROC, is much smoother. 伏特加酒可以是由农产品如葡萄或是原材料如谷物而制 成。在挑选的时候要问自己一个问题，那个是您比较喜欢嘴 嚼的？从葡萄蒸馏而来的伏特加口感比较滑畅，CÎROC就 是其中之一。

Taste testing...

To taste vodka you follow the same five steps you would follow if you were tasting wine. You smell the aroma, then swirl, sip, let the impression sit in, swallow, then exhale. The only difference is the percentage of alcohol in vodka, so you must dilute it with water when tasting. 品尝伏特加可以按照跟品酒相同的五个步骤。首先是闻其 香味，然后摇一摇，啜一口让酒在口腔里停留一下才把它吞 下，最后是呼气。唯一的区别是伏特加的酒精百分比高，所 以品尝时必须用清水稀释。

Mix it with...

When it comes to drinking quality vodka, you can drink it neat on the rocks with some lemon or in a classic cocktail. It doesn’t need masking. 饮用高质量的伏特加的方法是单饮、柠檬 加冰或制成经典的鸡尾酒。

Pair it with...

If you are looking to cleanse the palate, vodka is best after spicy food. To complement your food, caviar and fish are classic matches. 伏特加能净化味觉，吃完辛辣食物后的功 效最明显。也能配搭食物一起享用，如伏 特加配鱼子酱或鱼是经典的组合。

Blue is the colour TOD'S将在澳大利亚悉尼的西田购物中心（Westfield） 开设首家商店，为客人提供一系列的招牌皮制乐福鞋。 Bringing a little colour to Westfield Sydney, Tod’s will open its first Australian store, where you will find its endless array of signature leather loafers. Shoes from $895, tods.com

Vodka is...

To me, the water of life. It’s a true celebration of fine living. 对我来说，它是生命之水。这是对优质生 活一种真正的庆祝。 From $80, ciroc.com

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shopping

Watch, Bremont $7,773, bremont.com

Hat, Rag + Bone $240, ragandbone.com

Shirt, Jil Sander $293, jilsander.com

Sneakers, Lanvin $480, lanvin.com

122 Boots, Saint Laurent $923, saintlaurent.com Backpack, Balenciaga $1,782, balenciaga.com

Knit, Lanvin $789, lanvin.com

Chill out

comfy winter essentials that every man should have Belt, Bottega Veneta $600, bottegaveneta.com

Glasses, Cutler and Gross $405, mrporter.com

Scarf, Loro Piana $623, mrporter.com

Holdall, Santiago Gonzalez $6,840, santiagogonzalez. com

shopping

Bag, Fendi $2,375, fendi.com

Bracelet, Marc by Marc Jacobs $200, marcjacobs.com

Skirt, Proenza Schouler $1,875, proenzaschouler.com

124 Pumps, Gianvito Rossi $740, farfetch.com

Pants, Isabel Marant $2,740, isabelmarant.com

Clutch, Alaia $1,620, net-a-porter.com

Platforms, John Galliano $POA, johngalliano.com

Bag, Chanel $4,240, chanel.com

Earrings, Ana Khouri $POA, anakhouri.com

Flash back

Designers channel the eighties with these metallic pieces

Tote, Fendi $2,320, fendi.com

Ring, Givenchy $POA, givenchy.com

Heels, Alejandro Ingelmo $1,060, alejandroingelmo.com

Top, Versace $2,625, versace.com

U G G AU S T R A L I A F L AG S H I P S TO R E N OW O P E N Sydney | Queen Victoria Building, Ground Floor For other stockists, please visit uggaustralia.com

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蒂芙尼 蒂芙尼 2014年的蓝本已经出版，在之后的几页中 收录了其中一些惊艳的珠宝作品，还有康士坦丁· 皮拉图带我们追溯至1845年来探索蓝本的历史

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Into the Blue The 2014 Tiffany and Co. Blue Book Collection has arrived; the stunning pieces are pictured over the next few pages.

Constantina Pilatos looks at the Blue Book’s history, which dates back to 1845

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到Tiffany & Co.蒂芙尼就 会让人想起《 第凡内早餐》里的奥黛 丽·赫本、《绅士爱美 人》电影中配戴着蒂芙尼 钻石的玛丽莲·梦露、还 有蒂芙尼系着白色蝴蝶 结Robin’s egg blue蓝 色（源自一种美国罗宾鸟

蛋的颜色）的小礼盒。可 是鲜为人知的是，这个世 界知名的珠宝商是首家为 客人提供在家购物体验的 品牌。 创始人查尔斯·刘易 斯·蒂芙尼（Charles Lewis Tiffany）于1845 年成立蒂芙尼蓝本（Blue Book），这是一个很聪

W

hen you think Tiffany & Co. you think Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s; Marilyn Monroe dripping with diamonds in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes; and small, robin’s-egg-coloured Tiffany Blue jewellery boxes dressed with a delicate white bow.

What the fine jewellery brand is less known for, however, is being the first to introduce a shop-from-home experience to its customers.

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Spring awakening Alongside diamonds, Sapphires of pink, blue, and yellow decorate this 2014 Floral-inspired neckpiece

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明的做法。当刘易斯在他 的纽约店工作时，发现客 户在浏览的时候心事重重 或是在忙着别的事情，并 未能真正享受陈列的展 品。刘易斯没有上前去打 扰他们，反而愿意等待并 且把一本高贵优雅的目录 寄到他们的邮箱，好让他 们能在家浏览购买。这是 在美国第一次体验到目录

购物所提供的购物方式是 如此的舒适。 起初在蓝本里的是店 内产品的手绘图，科技技 术随着时间的推移提高， 手绘图也演变成光亮的照 片。被收录在蓝本里的珠 宝是珠宝鉴赏家及收藏家 所梦寐以求，独一无二、 纯手工制造的产品，因此 被称为蓝本系列（Blue

Book Collection），并 至今仍然每年都在生产。 出版已经将近两个 世纪的年刊，收录蒂芙 尼及世界上一些最稀有 的钻石和宝石，使蓝本 的页面耀眼夺目。有史 以来最昂贵的项链也能 在2012年的蓝本中找 到，就是蒂芙尼一条名 为Majestic、价值1200

万元的钻石项链，以300 棵手工切割，合共13.12 克拉的梨形钻石围绕着一 棵完美无暇巨大的30.12 克拉的钻石而成。 但是要找到这些让 人瞠目结舌的钻石并不 容易，为了他们独一无 二的系列，蒂芙尼花上 数年时间来搜集世界各 地的宝石，克什米尔

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The highest end The blue book features some of the world’s most valuable pieces

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“The blue book wa s th e u n i t e d s tat e s ’ f i r s t ta s t e o f cata l o g u e s h o pp i n g ” 129

The Tiffany & Co. Blue Book has been arriving in mailboxes since 1845. The idea was thought up by Charles Lewis Tiffany, the company’s founder, and it was a clever one. While working in his New York City store Lewis found customers were often preoccupied or otherwise engaged when browsing; they weren’t truly enjoying the pieces on display. Rather than bothering them, he was happy to wait and approach them via an elegant catalogue, which would be delivered to their mailbox so they could shop from home. It was the United States’ first taste of catalogue shopping.

Initially the catalogue included pages of drawings of in-store products, but as time went on technology improved and the sketches turned into glossy photographs. Eventually, the products favoured for the book were the types jewellery connoisseurs and collectors could only dream about. These one-of-a-kind, handmade products became known as the Blue Book Collection and are still produced annually.

With almost two centuries of yearly publications up its sleeve, it’s no surprise that some of Tiffany & Co.’s, and the world’s, rarest diamonds and gems have graced the pages of the Blue Book. In fact, one of the most expensive neck pieces ever produced can be found in 2012’s catalogue.

Valued at a whopping $12 million, the Tiffany Majestic necklace glitters with over 300 hand-cut, pear-shaped diamonds totalling 13.12 carats and surrounding a mammoth 30.12-carat flawless diamond.

First time’s a charm One of tiffany’s first blue book catalogues

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Show stopper

But these jaw-dropping diamonds are not easy to come by. To make up its unique collection, Tiffany & Co. spends years scouring the world for precious stones.

Sapphires from Kashmir, emeralds from Colombia, tourmalines from Paraíba; there isn’t a place Tiffany gemologists won’t go. In fact, in the 20th century the jewellers even went as far as discovering a new stone. The violet pink morganite stone was found by Tiffany gemologists in Madagascar and was named after client and American Industrialist J.P. Morgan.

Today, the pursuit of gems to grace the pages and pieces of the Blue Book Collection remains at the heart of Tiffany & Co. ◆

it took over a year to procure the 319 stones in the 2012 tiffany Majestic

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All in the detail all blue book masterpieces are handset

“为了独一无二的系 列，蒂芙尼花上数年来 搜集世界各地的宝石” （Kashmir）蓝宝石、哥伦 比亚（Columbia）绿宝 石、Parabia的碧玺，没 有一个地方是蒂芙尼的 宝石学家不会去寻找瑰宝 的。来到20世纪珠宝商 去得更远寻找新宝石，蒂 芙尼的宝石学家在马达 加斯加（Madagascar） 发现一颗紫红色的摩根

石，其取名自一位同是宝 石爱好收藏家的客人的名 字——约翰·皮尔庞特· 摩根 （J .P. Mo rga n）。 今天，蒂芙尼仍然充满热 情地追求极致的宝石来使 蓝本的页面熠熠发光以及 为蓝本系列寻找新成员。 只需看看2014年的系列便 可知晓了。 ◆

酷玩 厚厚的皮草、羊绒上衣以及软皮夹 克，一起来用古驰（Gucci）2014的 早秋系列来拥抱这个冬天吧！

Play it cool Thick furs, cashmere knits and soft leather jackets – rug up this season with Gucci’s Pre-Fall Collection 2014

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Opposite page 左页 Him男: Leather jacket 皮夹 克 $4,880, Turtle neck 高领上 衣 $815, Denim Pant 牛仔裤 $675. Her 女: Coat 外套 $2,070, Dress 裙子 (worn underneath 穿在外套里) $1,495, Diamante clutch 手拿包 $1,125, Beret 贝 雷帽 $660 This page 本页 Knit 上衣 $550, Black flannel pant 黑色绒裤 $690, Twill scarf 领巾 $250, Belt 皮带 $325, Horsebit bracelet 马衔扣手镯 $650, Beret 贝雷帽 $285

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Zebra printed trench 斑 马印花风衣, $2755, Silk top 丝绸上衣 $1185 (worn underneath 穿在风衣里), Leather skirt 皮质短裙 $800 (Worn underneath 穿在风衣里), Beret 贝雷帽 $660, Boots 靴子 $1,160, Socks 袜子 $110

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Him 男: Ink jacket 外套 $1710, Blue cable knit crew neck 针 织上衣 $800, Stone denim duke shirt 牛仔衬衫 $720, Tricotine riding pant 裤子$785,Scarf 领巾 $250, Beret 贝雷帽 $285, Yellow diamante duffle bag 行李包 $2,255 Her 女: Chambray shirt 衬衫 $960, White merino top 白色羊 毛上衣 $1,725, Black shorts 黑色 短裤 $515, Beret 贝雷帽 $660

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Black shearling biker黑色 羊皮衣$7690, Cashmere turtle neck 羊绒高领上 衣$1,185, Grey jersey hacking pants裤子 $930, Grey mesh pocket square 衣 $160, Velvet beret丝绒 贝雷帽$285

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Mongolia fur coat皮草 大衣 $8,835, Black top 黑色上衣$1,345, Beret 贝雷帽$660

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Him男: Wool cashmere English rib crew neck 羊 毛 羊绒圆领上衣$825, Light blue selvedge shirt 浅蓝衬 衫 $325, Grey hacking pant 裤子 $930, Graphite tie 领带 $225, Horsebit bracelet 马 衔扣手镯 $650 Her女: Natural white trench 风衣 $2285, Black-white turtle neck 黑白高领上衣 $1090 (worn underneath 穿 在风衣里), White skirt 白色短 裙 $715 (worn underneath 穿在风衣里) Python bracelet 手镯 $845, Beret 贝雷帽$660

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When in Rome Never shy of colour and large gems, in the last century Bulgari has come a long way from its humble beginnings...

Words Constantina Pilatos

罗马之时 大胆地运用多种不同的颜色和夸张的宝石来进行搭配，宝 格丽在上个世纪已经从卑微出身走过了一段很长的路⋯⋯

ulgari is synonymous with Italy. Opening its doors to Rome in 1884, the jewellery house has used the Italian capital as its muse ever since. Its designs draw inspiration from the architecture, arts and history of the city – a little hard to believe considering the brand actually formed in a neighbouring European country.

The origins of Bulgari lie in Kallarrytes, a small village in Greece situated in the Pindus mountain range, not far from the Albanian border. It was here that skilled metal workers – whose craft, mastered in Byzantine times, had been handed down through generations – resided.

The silversmiths of Kallarrytes were famous throughout the region for their production of belts, buckles, earrings, sword sheathes, cartridge belts and more.

Sotirios Voulgaris, founder of Bulgari, was one of these highly skilled silversmiths. He spent his youth learning the trade from fellow villagers and worked in Greece until 1881, before seeking refuge from conflict – and, in the process, bigger and better things – in Rome. Making a living by selling his jewellery in the storefronts of other jewellers, his business thrived. By 1884 he opened his first shop, inscribing his new (and more Italian) name, Bulgari.

For all his early toil, however, it wasn’t Sotirios who saw the business flourish into the multimillion dollar empire it has become today. By the 1950s and 60s, under the leadership of Sotirios’s sons Constantino and Giorgio, the brand was showering society’s elite in jewels, from A-list celebrities to politician’s wives and royalty.

Elizabeth Taylor’s husband, Richard Burton, once said “the only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari.”

Today, Sotirios’s grandsons Paolo and Nicola are, respectively, chairman and vice chairman of the Bulgari group.

The brand’s current products include perfumes, five-star hotels and handcrafted bags and watches.

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宝

格 丽 是 意 大 利 的 代 名 词。1884年在罗马 开业，这家珠宝店自 此以意大利首都作为 它的缪斯，其设计灵 感都是来自城市的建 筑、艺术以及历史。 可是这个世界著名的 珠宝品牌130年前在 欧洲国家的一个邻家 小镇中创立还是让人 有点难以相信的。 宝格丽起源于希 腊爱彼罗斯区，离阿 尔巴尼亚边境不远。 这里有技术精湛的金 属工人，他们的手艺 自拜占庭时期已经代 代相传。爱彼罗斯区 的银匠以制造皮带、 带扣、耳环、刀剑鞘 及子弹带而著称。 宝格丽的创始 人索提里欧·宝 格丽（Georgis Boulgaris）就是其中 的一个银匠。他青年 时期向同村村民学习 贸易然后传递给儿子 提诺（Sotirios）。从 此父子俩在希腊工作 至1881年直到儿子提 诺便移民到罗马，去 寻找更大更好的事。 在罗马，他以卖珠宝

为生，生意也在意大 利的首都如日中天地 发展起来。1884年开 了第一家店并起名为 宝格丽，一个富有意 大利风格的新名字。 可是并不是提诺 看到宝格丽的业务蓬 勃发展到成为数百万 元的帝国，而是他的 孙子保罗·宝格丽 （Paolo Bulgari） 和尼古拉·宝格丽 （Nicola Bulgari） ，他们俩分别是今天 宝格丽集团的主席 和副主席。1950至 1960年代宝格丽的 珠宝在当时的上流社 会风靡一时，受到许 多上流人士爱戴，不 管是名媛明星还是 政客的妻子、皇室贵 族。伊丽莎白·泰勒 （Elizabeth Taylor） 的丈夫理查德·伯顿 （Richard Burton） 曾经说过：“在意大 利文中，伊丽莎白 只认识宝格丽这个 字。”今天宝格丽的 业务涵盖香水、五星 级酒店以及手工制作 的包包和腕表。 所以究竟这个品 牌为何能持续如此 的成功？首席执行

“ E l i z abeth T a y l or ’ s h u sban d once sai d ‘ the on l y wor d E l i z abeth knows in I ta l ian is B u l gari ’ ”

True temptation The sinuous serpenti design will be the icon of bulgari’s 130th anniversary

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官吉恩·克里斯托 夫·巴宾（JeanChristophe Babin） 说原因是保持品牌的 完整性。巴宾继续 说道：“宝格丽源自 罗马，拥有罗马的基 因。我们的珠宝受意 大利的文艺复兴和新 古典时期的启发，我 们忠于罗马的根源， 以及把它揉合到现代 的设计中。一个拥有 2,500年丰富历史的 城市，艺术和古迹一 直是我们大部分创作 和设计的灵感来源， 使它们跟城市一样成 为永恒的杰作。” 巴宾先生认为透

过保宝格丽家 族仍然参与在 创建作品的过 程来保持品牌 标志性的风格是 十分重要的。他 说：“宝格丽的优点 是家族的人仍然是公 司活跃的一分子。保 罗也正在做设计，所 以我觉得是没有冲突 的，反而是一个关键 的优势使公司更加 的丰富。”同时家庭 关系也使在扩大公司 品牌上担任重要的角 色。 在2011年宝格丽 加入路威酩轩集团 （LVMH），法国

Bulgari brothers Nicola, PAOLO and GIANNI BULGARI at the bulgari shop in 1980

的 跨 国 奢 侈 品 巨 头 率领一众奢 侈品牌如路 易威登（Louis Vuitton）、纪梵 希（Givenchy） 、高田贤三巴黎 （Kenzo Paris）、芬 迪（Fendi）及赛琳 （Celine）。宝格丽 在路威酩轩的殿堂中 拥有特殊的地位，加 入后它们腕表及珠宝 的业绩已经翻倍。巴 宾说：“我们是唯一 一家公司售卖超过七 百万的产品，”只要 看看宝格丽的珠宝也 不难理解。

虽然颜色可能会 被认为是宝格丽作品 的主要特征，它们也 提供一系列优质的无 色钻石，拥有出众的 大小、白度、切工以 及净度。秉承公司提 供优质珠宝的声誉， 宝格丽为市场引入最 稀有和最具历史意义 的钻石。 其中一颗令人惊 艳的是著名的纳萨克 钻石，89克拉重的钻 石根据一个位于印度 孟买东北方的城市而 命名。在这里，它们 从17世纪开始便拥有 印度教神湿婆雕像的 眼睛，19世纪初期被

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So how has the brand remained so successful? CEO Jean-Christophe Babin says it’s by keeping its integrity.

“Bulgari’s DNA is Roma. Our jewels are inspired by Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance and Neoclassic periods,” Babin says.

“Devotion to Roman roots is combined with modern design. A city rich with 2,500 years of history, arts and monuments has inspired most of our creations and designs, making them as eternal as the city itself.”

FAMILY STYLE Babin also believes it’s essential to maintain the brand’s signature style by ensuring the Bulgari family still has input in the pieces created.

“The advantage here at Bulgari is that the family is still in the company.

Paolo is still designing, so I think there is no conflict, but it is a key advantage that makes the company much richer,” he says.

In 2011 Bulgari joined LVMH, a French multinational luxury goods conglomerate that leads brands such as Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Kenzo Paris, Fendi and Celine. The Italian jewellery house has a special place in the LVMH pantheon, having doubled its sales in watches and jewellery. “We are the only company in the group

All sorts The bulgari range also includes handcrafted watches and handbags

selling pieces that can surpass $7 million,” says Mr Babin. Looking at the jewellery, it isn’t hard to tell why.

Though colour might be considered the dominant feature of most Bulgari pieces, a number of colourless diamonds of exceptional size, whiteness, cut and clarity have also been mounted by the firm. In keeping with its reputation of fine jewellery, Bulgari has traded some of the rarest and most historically important diamonds as they came onto the market.

Among the numerous examples is the Nassak Diamond. This famous stone, originally 89 carats, was named after the Indian city of Nasi, situated north-east of Bombay. Here it served, from the 17th century onward, as the eye of a statue of the Hindu god Siva. In the early 19th century it was brought to Britain and, in 1837, it was acquired by the first Marquis of Westminster, who used it to decorate the hilt of his sword.

“Luxury must be uncompromising; you must integrate patience and stubbornness if you want to always offer the best,” says Mr Babin. “We won’t stop looking for a gem until we find the right one. It may be that an emerald necklace is ready except for a missing 40-carat stone. It can take years before we find the ‘missing element’ as we never compromise a design.”

In addition to Bulgari’s formal high jewellery, it also creates pieces for the everyday working woman who

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The lap of luxury

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The bulgari hotel london is located in chic knightsbridge

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“我们忠于罗马的 根源，把它揉合到 现代设计中” requires wearable jewels with highquality design and craftsmanship.

The versatility of modular patterns such as the sinuous Serpenti enable the brand to constantly renovate its style and create bold and voluminous jewels with remarkable flexibility.

It’s the Serpenti design, in fact, that will be the icon for the brand’s 130th Anniversary Collection, showcasing jewels featuring rare gems and diamonds. “It shows the idea of the serpent that changes its skin and renews itself for the better,” says Mr Babin of the $10.85 million neck piece.

“The challenge was to create a jewel with volume and for it to look as if it was a real snake. We wanted to show the idea that by removing skin there is another preciousness to be discovered, revealed through diamonds.” As each year goes by the Bulgari brand manages to consistently produce gems of such high quality that surely even the Greek gods would have approved. ◆

Sweet sapphire This $600,000 -plus sautoir was a gift from richard burton to eliz abeth taylor

带到英国后在1837年 被西敏的侯爵买了用 来装饰他的剑柄。 巴宾说：“奢侈 品必须是不妥协的， 如果您想经常能提供 最优质的话需要一个 有耐性和执着的商业 模式。我们在找到合 适的宝石前是不会 停止寻觅的。譬如一 条翡翠项链已准备就 绪，只差一颗40克拉 的宝石。寻找那个‘ 失踪的一块’可能要 花上数年的时间，因 为我们永不在设计上 妥协。” 除了宝格丽华丽 正式的高级珠宝之 外，它也为对珠宝设 计及手工有要求的女 士们设计日常佩戴的 款式。模块化的样式 有很强的通用性，譬

如蛇形的Serpenti系 列让品牌能持续地翻 新改造其设计以及在 创造大胆和多层次的 珠宝时有很强的灵活 性。 Serpenti系列蛇 形的设计是品牌130 周年庆典系列的标 志，展示稀有宝石和 钻石的珠宝。巴宾对 着价值1058万的项 链说：“这展示了蛇 换皮以及自我更新的 概念。我们所要面对 的挑战是创造一条栩 栩如生的蛇，我们想 带出在换皮后有其它 更珍贵的东西能被发 掘，那些珍贵的东西 我们通过钻石显现出 来。”宝格丽每年也 会持续不断的推出连 希腊神也会认可的高 质素宝石。 ◆

SiO2nH2O

Gemma Australis Incognita

From the Australian Outback. www.opalminded.com 55a George Street, The Rocks, Sydney. T: 02 9247 9885.

people

观澜湖 世界上最大的高尔夫球会观澜湖并不会因为拥有 22个国际级球场而满足，现在还在建设自己的城镇。 艾历克斯·米德访问了观澜湖的主席朱鼎健博士

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Mission statement Not content with being the world’s biggest golfing operation with 22 championship golf courses, Mission Hills is now building its own towns. Alex Mead meets the Chairman of Mission Hills, Dr Ken Chu

我

们 首 先 来 看 一 大的自然高尔夫王国也只 些 数 据 ， 因 为 是空谈而已。如果中国的 数 字 可 以 反 映 万里长城是首个在太空上 出 观 澜 湖 庞 大 的 自 然 环 能被看见的人造建筑的话， 境。观澜湖覆盖了多少土 那么这片经精心修剪的巨 地面积？40平方公里。在 大绿色草皮必定是第二个 繁 忙 的 日 子 中 有 几 个 来 从太空能被看见的杰作。 朱 氏 兄 弟 朱 鼎 一展身手的球手？3,000 健（Ken）和朱鼎耀 。有多少个整装待发的球 童 比 如 协 助 球 手 寻 找 正 （Tenniel）是已故观澜湖 創始人之子，他们俩被 确的推杆线？4,000（也 负责驾驶2,000部高尔夫 球车的其中一部）。在 深圳、东莞和海口的投 资？48亿美金。在观澜 湖建成之前中国有多少高 尔夫球手？10,000。今天 列入高尔夫球界10大最 全中国有多少高尔夫球 有影响力的人物之一，足 手？5,000,000（还在持续 以反映中国在各个范畴的 增长中）。 这个数字游戏是所有 迅 速 增 长 。 他 们 是 世 界 的前十名，在亚洲是位居 到访观澜湖的人都有参与 的，因为这个高尔夫球会 第一。Ken说：“刚开始 实在太巨大，如果没有了 的时候只有一个高尔夫球 场和一个俱乐部，连酒店 他们，再怎么解释这个庞

T

o start, some figures – because if anything gives you immediate perspective on the gargantuan nature of Mission Hills, it’s the numbers. Land footprint of Mission Hills: 40 square kilometres. Golfers teeing off on a busy day: 3,000. Caddies available to help said golfers find the right putting line: 4,000 (driving one of 2,000 golf carts). Investment across Shenzhen, Dongguan and Haikou? US$4.8 billion. Golfers in China pre-MH: 10,000. Golfers in China today: 5,000,000 (and rising).

The numbers game is played by all who visit Mission Hills.

Without it, explaining the colossal nature of this golfing utopia is nigh on impossible. If the Great Wall of China was the first man-made creation to be seen from space, then surely the vast blanket of pure green, lovingly crafted golfing lawns of Mission Hills is the second.

It’s a success that reflects China’s huge growth in so many fields, reinforced when the Chu brothers – Ken and Tenniel, sons of late Mission

“观澜湖正式成为世界 上第一大高尔夫球会”

people 147

Driver of growth Dr ken chu (pictured) is chairman of mission hills and son of its founder, Dr david chu

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Tall order former NBA star yao ming at the mission hills haikou celebrity pro-am

也没有。”Ken继承父业， 于2010年接任成为观澜湖 的主席。Ken继续说：“ 在我们成功地游说世界杯 来中国举办后，因为当 时城里没有几家五星级 酒店，所以我们就建了一 家。”高尔夫球场急速发 展，从两个到四个，第五 个在2001年诞生。然后泰 格·伍兹（Tiger Woods） 来了。Ken忆述说：“泰 格的到访对中国高尔夫球 界造成了巨大的影响，当 时打高尔夫的人口大概是 500,000，泰格来了后数 字立刻翻倍。我们继而有 第二波雪球效应，所以在 2003年扩充了五个球场。” 虽然好像只是横跨深 圳和东莞双城，理论上是 两个度假村，实际上却是 一个庞大的网络。2005年 当第十个高尔夫球场诺曼 球场（Norman）加入这 个大家庭时，观澜湖正式

成为世界上第一大高尔夫 球会，甚至超越现今的美 国Pinehurst高尔夫球会， 这个过程必定是拆毁了美 国的骄傲。 可是，造就观澜湖的 盛世还有其他的因素，最 讽刺的是严重急性呼吸系 统综合症（俗称“沙士” ）。Ken解释道：“当时 所有人都想要到室外去。 虽然爆发沙士，商业活动 还是要继续进行，可是没 有人原意跟别人同待在一 个房间内。餐厅、城市俱 乐部因此倒闭，商业活动 改成在高尔夫球场上进 行。沙士把打高尔夫球的 人数从2001年的一百万激 增至三百万。人们都需要 呼吸比较清新的空气和比 较清洁的生活方式。” 事实和数据是Ken生 命的一部分，在谈话的过 程中他一直用无休止的数 字和统计来支持他所说的

Hills founder Dr David Chu – were included in the top 10 most powerful people in golf. In Asia, they’re No.1. “Initially it was just a golf course with a clubhouse, not even with a hotel,” says Ken, who followed in his father’s footsteps to become chairman of Mission Hills in 2010. “But after we successfully lobbied for the World Cup to come to China, there weren’t too many five-star hotels in the city, so we built one.” As you do.

The courses multiplied fast, from two to four, then a fifth in 2001. Then Tiger Woods came to town. “The aftermath of Tiger was [incredible],” recalls Ken. “The golf population was something like 500,000, then it immediately doubled. Then we had a second snowball effect, so we expanded in 2003 with an additional five courses.”

“把高尔夫看成是一种语 言，一种能把东方和西 方连起来的语言”

When the 10th course – the Norman Course – was added in 2005, Mission Hills had officially become the biggest golf operation in the world, outmuscling the incumbent Pinehurst and no doubt denting America’s pride in the process.

In case Pinehurst got any clever ideas, Chu’s father added two more courses, just in case.

Ironically, Mission Hills’ rise was also helped by another key factor: SARS. “Everybody wanted to be outdoors,” explains Ken. “Business activity still needed to be conducted but nobody wanted to be in the same room as anyone else.

So restaurants were down, city clubs were down, business needed to carry on, so it took place on the golf course. From that year, 2001, there were one million Chinese golfers; SARS made it three million. People needed to be exposed to cleaner air and lifestyle.”

growth spurt Facts and figures are very much part of Ken’s life. He litters conversation with a seemingly endless roll call of impressive stats to back up any statement. His father had clearly been just as astute, making the move to invest in golf when China had encouraged foreign investment

Home stretches luxury residences can be found lining many of mission hills’ fairways

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Centre of attention An artist’s night impression of the centreville mall at shenzhen/dongguan

每一句活。Ken的父亲显 弟Tenniel也负责营运和 然是跟他一样精明，在中 管 理 高 尔 夫 球 方 面 的 事 国鼓励外来投资到深圳， 情。Ken说：“我一直希 望能协助我父亲，在我六 把税收从百分之三十减 到百分之十五的时候，他 岁的时候已经知道了。我 的父亲是白手起家的，我 看准时机把投资投向高 尔夫。在当时来自香港的 出生的那一年他建立了自 投资也算是属于“外来” 己的生意，当时只有三个 的。Ken解释道：“我的 人。我六岁时，他为我们 父亲把高尔夫看成是一种 家买了第一辆四轮汽车。 语言，一种能把东方和西 我当下就明白他经过了多 方连起来的语言。高尔夫 少的苦头，为的是给家人 在商业活动上是一个很好 创 造 一 个 更 好 的 生 活 环 境。这也是我意识到自己 的平台，他看见了这个商 想要参与的一刻。” 机和需求。” Ken跟父亲一样是追 他们兴致勃勃地去满 足这个需求。继深圳/东 求极致的人。他们在海口 举办了一场名星赛，邀请 莞之后，观澜湖集团创 的并不是非知名演员，而 始人朱博士将产业的版图 延伸到中国唯一的热带宝 是超级明星如休·格兰特 岛——海南。他们真的把 （Hugh Grant）、凯瑟琳· 泽塔 - 琼斯（Catherine 火山岩挖出来，用3000 万立方米的泥土覆盖它并 Zeta-Jones）、帕特·卡 建了10个高尔夫球场，成 什（Pat Cash）、罗纳 功发展了海口观澜湖度假 尔多（Ronaldo）、史蒂 区 ， 包 括 酒 店 、 餐 厅 和 芬·亨得利（Stephen Hendry，别忘了斯诺克 高尔夫球学院。可惜的是 朱博士在还没有完工前离 在中国是盛大的赛事）、 世，Ken继承了父业，兄 莱 恩 · 雷 诺 斯 （ R y a n

in Shenzhen by reducing taxes from 30 per cent to 15. Hailing from Hong Kong, at the time that counted as ‘foreign’. “My father saw that golf is a language,” explains Ken, “a language that can link the East and the West. It’s a very nice medium in which business activities can be conducted. So he saw this niche, and this need.”

They met the need with gusto. Following on from Shenzhen/Dongguan, Chu Snr embarked on the Hainan leg of the Mission Hills project. A volcanic island, they literally dug up the volcanic rock, covered it with 30 million cubic metres of soil and built another 10 courses – complete with hotel, restaurant and golf academy trimmings – to create Mission Hills Haikou.

Sadly, Chu Snr passed away before its completion and the reins were handed to Ken; brother Tenniel runs the golfing side of things.

“I always wanted to help my father, I knew that when I was six,” says Ken. “My father is a self-made man. He established his own business with just three people in the year I was born, then when I was six, he bought the family’s first four-wheel automobile. That’s when I realised the hardship he had gone through to create a better environment for the family.

That’s when I knew I wanted to contribute.”

Like his father, Ken doesn’t do things by halves. When hosting a celebrity pro-am at

“我想要推广的 是家庭和谐”

Reynolds）、安迪·贾西 亚（Andy Garcia）和姚 明，安迪·贾西亚是一众 名人中首先开球的。 Ken说道：“是次活 动在全球148个国家中转 播，这代表他们都能看得 到海南岛和海口市。这是 海南有史以来最大型的广 播，让许多人接触到海南 岛。所以政府对我们所做 的一切感到非常高兴，同 时也相当支持。 ” 观澜湖还有比这更 多、更大的计划。今年 年底将会有两个只能用“ 城镇”来形容的工程落 成，分别是横跨深圳、东 莞双城的观澜湖新城和 位于海口的兰桂坊，兴建 购物中心、娱乐中心、酒

店和公寓。另外还有电影 院、模拟赛车中心以及全 球最大型免税商店等设 计方案。其中最重要的是 确保提供全年、全天候 的高尔夫球服务。Ken 说道：“高尔夫的英 文GOLF是Gentlemen Only，Ladies Forbidden 的缩写，意思是只限男士， 女士禁止，是一个男性主 导的游戏，可我不喜欢这 个概念，更加不希望进一 步推广这种生活模式。我 不想男士们丢下妻子或是 不花时间跟儿女在一起。” Ken继续说道：“观 澜湖新城致力提供各式各 样的活动让所有人都能够 参与在其中，我们将是世 界上第一家高尔夫球会拥

Haikou, he didn’t mess around with D-list celebs – he went straight to the top. The likes of Hugh Grant, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Pat Cash, Ronaldo, Ryan Reynolds, Andy Garcia and Yao Ming were among the glitterati teeing off.

“That was seen in 148 countries worldwide,” says Ken, “which means they all tuned in to see Hainan Island and Haikou city. That is the largest [number of] broadcast viewers for Hainan ever – which is why government is very pleased and supportive of what we have done.”

ALL in the family Much more is planned for Mission Hills. Later this year Ken will launch what are essentially two ‘towns’ – Centreville in Shenzhen/Dongguan and Lan Kwai Fong in Haikou. They will have their own malls, entertainment centres, hotels and residences. A ‘movie-themed’ town, sportscar racing simulator and the world’s biggest duty-free store are also on the cards to ensure tees are full year-round. “The acronym

On a Mission BELOW: dr Chu and lan kwai fong chairman allen zeman

"只要您建成了， 他们就会来"

Golf town Mission hills haikou (above) is far more than a golfing destination

有IMAX巨型银幕电影院、 保龄球馆、卡拉OK、夜 总会、酒吧、商店、餐馆、 溜冰场，提供各种活动迎 合个人的需要。甚至设有 水疗所和温泉给年长的客

人。我想要推广的是家庭 和谐。据推测，观澜湖新 城在建成后，光是这个场 地每年已经能吸引1500万 人到访观澜湖。” 两个城镇的成本高达19 亿美元，这个庞大的数字 或许让一些人担心，可是 Ken却非常有信心，预计 每年将会有百分之十五的 回报率。Ken问道：“您 有看过凯文·科斯特纳 （kevin Costner）在主演的 一套电影里说 ‘只要您建成 了，他们就会来’吗？电 影是《梦幻成真》，记得 吗？”他继续说：“这只 能发生在中国！我跟您分 享一个数字，今天到访海 南岛的游客是4000万，这 是一个非常巨大的数字。” Ken需要参加派对，所 以访问就止在这个数字 上了。Ken说：“这是员 工派对，有14,000人参 加。而且每个部门都要表 演，我们称之为观澜湖达 人（Mission Hills Has Got Talent）！” 看着朱氏一家的成就， 他们也确实是达人。◆

for golf is ‘gentlemen only, ladies forbidden’ – it’s such a male-dominant game, but I don’t like that,” says Ken. “I don’t want to promote that lifestyle. I don’t want men to leave their wives behind, or not spend time with their kids.

“Centreville is about having something for everybody to do. We’ll be the only golf club in the world to have an IMAX theatre, bowling alley, karaoke, nightclubs, bars, shops, restaurants, ice skating rinks ... Even the elderly can go to spas or hot springs. I want to promote family harmony. The speculation is that by the time Centreville is built the captive audience that will be coming to Mission Hills will be 15 million every year, and that’s just on one site.”

The cost of the two towns amounts to something in the region of US$1.9 billion.

Such figures would worry some, but not Ken, as he confidently predicts a 15% annual ROI. “Have you seen the movie with Kevin Costner when he said ‘If you build it, they will come?’

Field of Dreams, remember that?” he asks.

“That can only literally take place in China!

Hainan alone gets 40 million visitors per year.”

And with that – on a number, naturally – the interview comes to an end, as Ken has a party to attend. “It’s the staff party – we have 14,000 people coming and each department has to put on a show. We’ve called it Mission Hills Has Got Talent!” Looking at what the Chus have achieved, indeed it has. ◆

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Magic touch It’s not all sunshine, beaches and fancy fascinators on the Gold Coast during its premier horse racing carnival, the Magic Millions. As Constantina Pilatos learns, there is also serious money to be made...

Photography Trent van der Jagt

康士坦汀·皮拉图发现在黄金海岸举 行的赛马盛事——魔幻百万赛马 嘉年华中不光是阳光、沙滩 以及时尚迷人的头饰，在其 中还能赚大钱……

events

魔幻赛马

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魔

幻百万赛马是首 用一个很不错的价格七万 屈一指的赛马活 元买了一匹马，马匹的名 动。在阳光明 字是Unencumbered。这 媚的黄金海岸举办的赛马 匹马在2014年魔幻百万 日，洋溢着无穷的魅力以 赛马嘉年华最高奖金的赛 及为黄金海岸俱乐部凝聚 事中夺魁：吉普魔幻百万 了神秘的气氛，不管是来 两岁比赛（Jeep Magic 自马匹和骑师还是场上让 Millions 2-Year-Old 人眼花缭乱的时装。比赛 Classic），为比约恩赢得 设有470万的巨额奖金，可 200万奖金。比约恩在寂 是魔幻百万赛真正跟别的 寂無名的马匹上的小额投 赛马活动不一样的地方是： 资却为他带来了巨额回报。 这不只是一个比赛日，而 这个成功的故事让在看台 是为期一周、昆士兰州最 上的人们的目光也投放在 大型的马匹拍卖会——周 马路对面的马厩，因为在 岁马拍卖会（Yearling 那里也能购买到属于他们 Sale）。 的“摇钱树”。 就在一年前，驯马 销售马匹可能没有赛 师比约恩·贝克（Bjorn 马那么夺目和有魅力，但 Baker）在这些拍卖会上 是对于买家来说也同样的

兴奋。在魔幻百万赛马周 中为期五天的周岁马拍卖 会，只有在拍卖会中买下 的马匹才有资格参加嘉年 华的8场赛事。所以，下一 年的魔幻百万两岁比赛的 胜利马匹就在这里的700匹 马匹之中，牠将会被买走。 每个人购买马匹都希 望寻找与别不同的，大部 分满一岁的马匹都会有新 主人。马主及魔幻百万赛 会员之一的格雷格·欧文 （Greg Irvine）说：“我认 识有一个人在挑选马匹时 如果遇上了两匹几乎一样 的马，他会选择耳朵比较 大的那一匹。谁知道为什 么呢，可能他在想拥有大 耳朵的会听得比较清楚吧。

每个人都有自己的喜好， 这不是一个容易的决定。” “首先，你必须看马 驹的家谱，要知道牠有什 么样的背景，然后问自己“ 牠的母亲是不是赢家，外 婆呢，爸爸呢，在家庭树 中有曾经胜出的马匹通常 会吸引多一些买家。” 由 于良好的基因并不能保证 能传递给后代，所以买家 必须依靠自己的直觉去挑 选，这也是最终能分别出 好、劣的买家。 格雷格继续说：“您 必须有一双善于鉴赏的眼 睛。买家来拍卖场亲身感 受一下马匹以及牠们的身 形与状况。譬如双腿长得 怎么样、有没有强健的后

events Going once, going twice, sold! (opposite, clockwise from left) carer leads horse to stables; auctioneer in action; horse bit. (This page, clockwise) philly on show; potential buyer; auction action; vip guests

T

he Magic Millions is a horse racing carnival like no other. Set on the sunny Gold Coast, it features a race day that drips with glamour and generates an almost mystical atmosphere around the Gold Coast Turf Club, from the horses and jockeys to the dazzling fashions on the field. It also offers a hefty prize purse of $4.7 million. But its true point of difference is that it’s not just about a race day. Over the course of a week, the Magic Millions also hosts the largest horse auction in Queensland: the Yearling Sale.

It was at the sale, merely a year ago, that horse trainer Bjorn Baker bought 2014’s Magic Millions winner Unencumbered for a cool $70,000 – a figure that’s considered a bargain in the horse world. Bjorn’s relatively small investment in an unknown horse proved to be an incredible money spinner, winning him $2 million in the carnival’s richest race,

the Jeep Magic Millions 2-Year-Old Classic.

Success stories like that of Bjorn’s surface year after year and have those watching from the stands on race day casting their eyes to the stables across the road, where they too could purchase a moneymaker.

The sales may not have the glitz and glamour of the races, but for a horse buyer they are just as exciting. Taking place over five days of the Magic Millions week, horses purchased at the Yearling Sale are the only ones eligible to enter any of the carnival’s eight races. It is here, among the 700 one-year-old horses, that the next year’s winner will be found.

Everyone looks for something different when buying a horse, and the majority of the yearlings up for sale will go home with a new owner. “I knew a guy where if two horses were pretty much identical he would always go for the one with the larger ears,” says Greg Irvine,

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“小额投资却为他带 来了巨额回报⋯⋯ 每个人都希望成为 一个成功的故事” 腿肉等等。这取决于您所 追求的是什么样的马，以 及您认为牠们有没有成为 魔幻百万赛赢家的潜力。” 拍卖会不只出售魔 幻百万赛冠军马匹的地 方，还是世界上奖金最高 的两岁比赛——金履赛 （Golden Slipper）冠军马 的出售地，9次的金履赛中 有7次赢得冠军的马匹都是 购自周岁马拍卖会，证明 拍卖会的马匹质量可以说 是世界一流的。 因此倘若这周在马 厩中看到赛马届的时 尚名流盖普华（Gai Waterhouse）、大卫· 海耶斯（David Hayes）、 霍克斯家族，甚至世界上 最大的马主的代表——来 自迪拜的谢赫·穆罕默德 （Sheikh Mohammed）在 仔细研究也不足为奇。往 往是马业巨头在马匹上花 最多钱，如澳大利亚驯马 师盖普华就是2014年出额 最高的人，在一匹马上投 资了100万元。 格雷格说：“如果有

两个买家同时看上了一匹 马，在拍卖会的当天投标 会达到几十万大关，有些 甚至会更高。”拍卖开始 后，在几分钟之内投标人 会毫不犹豫地投放几千元 在一匹马上。头10个叫价 已经能在原先的开价后面 多加了几个零。在这些拍 卖会中获标最高的一匹马 是2013年，价值135万。 魔幻百万赛的拍卖商安 东尼说道：“我们做拍卖 的人并没有时间午休。每三 分钟就会卖出一匹马，所以 每个小时有30匹马匹拥有 新的主人。这就是我跟其 他拍卖商的工作，让客人一 直微笑，一直消费。” 当然，买家是非常愿 意消费的。今年在拍卖会 上拍卖的663匹马，总值 7500万，这个数字每一年 都在增长。与去年的销售 比较，价格上涨超过一万 元，平均每个投标人在每 匹马上花费$144,112。在 20年前这个活动还几乎被 接管，因此现在的光景是 让人有点难以置信的。

horse owner and member of the Magic Millions team. “He probably thought they could hear better, who knows? Everyone has their own preferences. It’s not an easy decision.

“Firstly, you have to look at the pedigree of a foal. You need to see what kind of background it has and ask yourself, ‘Was the mother a winner? The grandmother? The father?’ A family tree of winners will usually attract more buyers.” Since good genes are not guaranteed to be passed on to offspring, buyers must also rely on their instinct, which ultimately separates the good buyers from the bad.

“You have to have an eye for it,” says Irvine.

“Buyers come to the sale to get a feel for the horse and see how it is put together, how its legs look, whether it has large hindquarters or a deep girth. It depends on what kind of horse you are after and if you think they look like a potential Magic Millions winner.”

It’s not just about the Magic Millions either.

The world’s richest two-year-old race, the Golden Slipper, has seen seven of the last nine of its winning horses purchased from the Yearling Sale, proving the quality of horses is nothing short of world-class.

It’s no surprise, then, that come sales week racing glitterati like Gai Waterhouse, David Hayes, the Hawkes family and even a representative of the largest horse owner in the world, Sheikh Mohammed of Dubai, can be seen perusing the stables. More often than not it’s the giants of the horse industry that are the biggest spenders, especially when they see a yearling they want. Australian trainer Gai Waterhouse left 2014’s sales with the biggest single purchase, splashing out $1 million on a horse.

“If two buyers are after a particular horse, when it goes up for auction on sales day you can expect the bidding to reach the hundreds of thousands mark, in some cases even more,” says Irvine. When the auction begins bidders are not shy to drop thousands on a horse in a matter of minutes. A couple of zeros can be

R a c e w it h i n t he r a c e 赛中之赛 于2013年创立了魔幻百万赛女性计划，以奖金鼓励所有希望参与赛马的女性。 嘉年华业主格里·哈维（Gerry Harvey）和凯蒂·帕吉·哈维（Katie PageHarvey）额外投入100万元，奖励马主是女性或女性团体的冠军至殿军的马 匹，冠军马获赠$325,000、亚军$100,000、季军$50,000、殿军$25,000。 Launched in 2013, Magic Millions Racing Women’s Initiative gives a bonus incentive to all those women looking to get into horse racing. An extra $1 million is put up by carnival owners Gerry Harvey and Katie Page-Harvey, to be shared among the first ($325,000), second ($100,000), third ($50,000) and fourth ($25,000) horses owned by a female or all-female syndicate.

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Dressed for success Ladies strut the catwalk to take out myer’s fashions on the field best dressed

By the numbers Moet & Chandon VIP Marquee

数据库：酩悦香槟贵宾帐篷

30

chefs on hand

名厨师

400

bottles of Moet & Chandon

瓶法国Moet & Chandon酩悦 香槟

2,000

glasses of champagne

杯香槟

35

kilograms of prawns

公斤大虾

60

shoulders of Moran Family lamb

份莫兰家族羊肩肉

810 guests

位客人

events

Million dollar babies

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t wo -ye ar- olds race the jeep cl assic for a $2 million prize purse

added to the end of a price within the first 10 bids. The most expensive horse ever sold at these sales was in 2013 when a colt fetched a whopping $1.35 million. “There’s no lunch break for us auctioneers,” says Steve Davies, Magic Millions auctioneer. “We are selling a horse every three minutes, so every hour 20 horses go to new owners. It’s my job, as well as other auctioneers, to keep people smiling and spending.”

And the buyers sure do spend. More than $75 million was thrown down on 663 horses at this year’s auction, and the figure is rising annually. The price jumped over $10,000 from last year’s sale as bidders spent an average of $144,112 per horse. A little hard to believe considering 20 years ago the event almost went into administration.

“We built this up from a very low point,” says Gerry Harvey, event owner and retail billionaire. “From almost collapsing, the Magic 活动拥有人以及零售 他 的 理 论 一 次 又 Millions Carnival has become an event that is 界的亿万富翁格里·哈维 一 次 地 被 证 明 是 正 确 talked about globally, attracting people from all （Gerry Harvey）说道：“ 的 ， 看 比 约 恩 和 马 匹 around the world. It just goes to show that in 我们从一个非常低的起点 Unencumbered的故事 the horse racing world, you never know what 去建立这一切，从几乎崩 便知道了。格里说：“在 the little seed you sow will make you.” 溃、倒塌的魔幻百萬賽嘉 比赛当天，甚至在比赛场 His theory is proven right time and time 年华到一个成为风靡全球 上，在还没有越过终点线 again – just look at the story of Baker and 的活动，吸引来自世界各 的一刻，牠们全是平等的。 Unencumbered. “Come race day, all is even 地的人参与。它只是能表 一 匹 价 值 3 万 元 的 马 可 能 on the field… until they cross the line,” says 明在赛马的世界里，永远 打败一匹价值80万的，这 Harvey. “You could have a horse that sold 不知道一粒小种子播下后 就是游戏的方式。每个人 for $30,000 that beats a horse that sold for 能为您带来什么样的结 都希望成为一个成功的故 $800,000 – it’s just the way the game goes. 果。” 事。”◆ Everybody wants to be a success story.” ◆

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Grace Huang Chinese-Australian actress/model Grace Huang constantly travels between the Orient and the Land Down Under. Here she shares the best of both worlds...

Model travelling Since I'm always in the air I like to stick to three basic rules to keep my body healthy. First, continuously drink water. Second, try to stay well-rested and sleep whenever possible. And third, never forget to eat so that my body is packed with healthy nutrients.

Becoming a local Walking the streets of a foreign city is the best way to get a feel for its culture. I always pick the places I eat by looking through the front window and seeing if it is full of locals. If it is, then I know it must be good.

162

Sydney's best Asian cuisine Having an Asian background, I like to think I can pick a good, authentic cuisine. Longrain in Sydney is one of the best Asian restaurants at which I've eaten. The menu incorporates Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese, and most meals come in share plates so you can try a bit of everything.

Art and about Beijing has become renowned for its art scene. Whenever I'm in the city I always try to check out some of the latest exhibitions.

798 Art Zone is a hotspot for the latest contemporary works.

Shop till you drop Australia is one of the best countries to shop in. There is so much diversity, from the one-off pieces you'll find at Bondi Markets to high-end luxury brands like Hermés and Jimmy Choo on Castlereagh Street in Sydney's CBD.

Past and present

Never leave Australia without Paying a visit to the Sydney Fish Markets.

Being an island, when it comes to fresh food

we are spoilt for choice. It might not be glamorous, but I guarantee you'll have the best oysters and prawns you've ever tasted.

Shanghai has this unique ability to mix old historical buildings with cool, underground venues. All throughout the French Concession you will find quirky, left-of-centre bars, the best places to get an after-dinner drink.

黄芝琪 澳大利亚华裔女演员及模特黄芝琪不 停往返东亚和澳纽，在这里她跟我们 分享两个世界最美好的一切 模特出游时…… 由于经常飞行，我喜欢坚持三个基本原则以保 持身体健康。1. 不断喝水 2. 尽可能保持良好的 休息和睡眠 3. 切记要进食，让我的身体充满健 康的营养素。

成为当地人…… 当身处外国的城市时，走在街道上是感受其文 化最好的方式。挑选餐厅时我总是探一下里面 的情况，倘若餐厅内充满当地人，那我就知道 这肯定是家好餐厅。

悉尼最好的亚洲菜…… 拥有亚洲背景的我常常想我能够挑一家拥有美 味地道美食的餐厅。位于悉尼的Longrain餐厅 是我品尝过最好的亚洲餐馆之一，菜色结合了 泰国、越南和中国的风味，而且大部分的菜色 可以跟别人共享，让您能多尝一下各种美食。

离开澳大利亚时永远不能缺少…… 到访悉尼鱼市场。当涉及到新鲜的食物时，这 个岛屿真是提供无穷的选择。可能看起来没有

什么特别，但我保证您会品尝到此生尝过味道 最好的生蚝和虾。

艺术世界…… 北京的艺术舞台已闻名国际。每当我在这个城 市，总是搜寻一些最新的展览。798艺术区是展 示最新当代作品的热点。

血拼至死…… 澳 大利亚 是 购 物 最 好的国家之一，极 具多样 性。比 如 在邦迪市场中会发现 独 一无 二的 时 尚单品，在 悉尼 的中央商务区的卡斯 尔雷 街 （Castlereagh Street）上也能找到高端奢侈 品牌如爱马仕（Hermes）和Jimmy Choo。

古今融合…… 上海有种独特的能力把古老的历史建筑与时尚 的地下场所混合。整个法租界区中您能找到各 种奇特的同志酒吧，是餐后喝酒的好地方。

Photograph by Trent van der Jagt

l ast word

my higher life

悉尼歌剧院 观光-普通话 导游参观的开放 时间为每天上午 9时至下午5时

参加悉尼歌剧院官方导游,由 经验丰富,说普通话的导游带 领, 参观被联合国教科文组织 列为世界文化遗产的建筑物 剧院里面的故事和建筑秘密 更是多不勝數,这个地方每 年有超过1600场表演。参 观公众限制领域, 以悉尼港 湾作背景, 拍摄珍贵的照片

SY D N E Y O P E R A H O U S E P R I N C I PA L PA RT N E R

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荟萃稀世珠宝，经销瑞士名表

J Fa r r e n P r i c e 经 销 各 类 高 档 瑞 士 名 牌 腕 表 和 顶 级 珠 宝 首 饰 ， 名 品 荟 萃 ， 款 式 齐 全 。 店 内 有 稀世之宝澳洲阿盖尔粉红钻石，以及世界著名的澳洲凯利斯南海珍珠和各类最畅销的名牌腕 表，其中包括百达翡丽、劳力士、江诗丹顿、积家、沛纳海和万国等品牌。

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