Higher View - Issue 08

October 2014

HIGHER VIEW ISSUE # 08

# 08

Food for thought Th e ch an gin g f ace o f Shang hai d i ni ng

朗格 Grand Lange 1 玫瑰金月相腕表。Watches of Switzerland 是朗格钟表在澳大利亚的独家经销商。

澳大利亚最大的瑞士钟表授权经销商，家族拥有，值得信赖 Watches of Switzerland 有近二十年的历史，现已成为澳大利亚最大的瑞士领先品牌钟表授权经销商。 本店为家族经营，值得信赖。员工态度友好，不但普通话、广东话皆可交流，而且对瑞士钟表均有深入的了解。 经营品牌广泛，其中包括朗格(A.Lange & Söhne)、积家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)、卡地亚(Cartier)、沛纳海(Panerai)、 万国(IWC)、宇舶(Hublot)、伯爵(Piaget)等等，欢迎前来选购！可以使用中国银联卡。全部钟表均有国际保证。 墨尔本: 294 Collins Street。悉尼: 199 George Street (四季酒店)。珀斯: 38 King Street。www.watchswiss.com

©T&CO. 2014

SYDNEY 28 CASTLEREAGH STREET WESTFIELD BONDI JUNCTION MELBOURNE 267 COLLINS STREET CHADSTONE SHOPPING CENTRE BRISBANE QUEENSPLAZA 226 QUEEN STREET PERTH 37 KING STREET 1800 731 131 | TIFFANY.COM

经过精心设计的范思哲家居精品店 位于悉尼新兴设计区滑铁卢。 店内陈列着范思哲的家具、床罩、 床单、靠垫、灯饰、玻璃制品、蜡烛、 瓷砖、卫浴用品及一系列面料织物。 在悉尼的家居精品店里可以观览整个家居系列， 并且为您提供订购服务。如果您需要特别定 制家具，我们专业的顾问会为您展示所有范 思哲系列的面料织物与制成品供您挑选。 Sydney Boutique 3, 409 George Street, Waterloo AUSTRALIA T. +61 2 9690 6533 Sheraton on the Park, Boutique 7, 161 Elizabeth Street, Sydney AUSTRALIA T. +61 2 9264 6554 Shop Online at : www.palazzocollezioni.com.au

范思哲家居更为您提供整套室内设计的服务。这个“工作室”的理念是专为客人提供设计上的个人咨询服务， 以及面料、颜色与家具摆设的建议，还为私人豪华住宅及公寓这类比较复杂的项目作室内设计。

ALT1-C/CR

源自天空，在驾驶舱中确立， 于英国组装 宝名机械天文台时计均由专业人员按照严格的标准...为大众而造

Bremont.com

中国驻悉尼旅游办事处

introduction 16

Welcome from CNTO, Sydney

Welcome from China Eastern

如

上

I

S

果您想知道中国在过去十年中的变化，只需要看看一些出色 的现代餐厅及酒店就可以找到答案，不管是在北京、上海， 还是广州及西安，它们已成为整个城市景观的一部分。上海当然是 其中的领跑者，位于上海的餐厅经常上榜世界100最佳餐厅和亚 洲50最佳餐厅，在第64－70页的专题中能找到背后的原因。 仍然是环绕着美食的主题，中国的美食闻名于世必定有其原因， 您也不必到访每个省份来逐一品尝，只要直接前往北京便能品尝 到来自中国各个城市的最佳小吃。我们在87－95页中为您精选一 些在首都找到的美味小吃。 今期我们也到访了平遥、广州、乌镇以及最引人入胜的湖南（44 －52页），在这里您将会发现一些世界上最壮丽的景观。 f you ever wondered how much China has changed in the past decade, you need only look at some of the fantastically modern restaurants and hotels that are now part and parcel of the major cities – from Beijing and Shanghai to Guangzhou and Xi’an.

At the forefront, as you’d expect, is Shanghai – often featured in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants – and you’ll find out why in the special feature on pages 64 to 70.

Still with the gastronomic theme, the flavours of China are world-famous for good reason, and you don’t need to visit every province to discover them all. Head to Beijing and you can find the very best snacks from right across the country in one city. We give you a flavour of some delicious offerings to be found in the capital on pages 87 to 95.

In this issue, we also visit Pingyao, Guangzhou, Wuzhen and, most spectacularly, Hunan, where you’ll find some of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes.

海以散发着浓郁的现代感而闻名，不仅拥抱着时尚、科技、 美食及建筑的最新潮流，更确实的将其融入城市之中，也因 此在许多方面常成为中国以及海外城市的灵感发源地。在今期的 《翼境》，我们一起来看上海的美食。来自欧洲和中国的世界级厨 师协力让上海成为顶尖的美食之都，一众厨师不断挑战极限，开 拓新领域。翻到第64页来阅读由作家Sarah O’Meara撰稿，有 关于上海令人兴奋和不断变化的饮食业，以及在背后的参与人。 另外，我们在有“中国威尼斯”之称的运河镇乌镇悠闲地漫 步（106－113页），探索广州法租界及英租界的宁静之美（80－84 页），以及来一趟北京之旅（87－95页），寻找充斥大街小巷无尽 的美味小吃。好好享受吧！ hanghai is renowned for being a thoroughly modern city – not only embracing new trends in fashion, technology, food and architecture, but also setting them.

Often giving other cities – in China and beyond – plenty of inspiration on so many fronts, in this issue of Higher View we look at its gastronomy. World-class chefs from Europe and China have helped push it to the top of culinary cities, with the men and women who man the stoves continually pushing the boundaries. Turn to page 64 to read Sarah O’Meara’s feature on Shanghai’s exciting and ever-changing food scene and the people behind it all.

Elsewhere, we take a relaxing stroll around Wuzhen, the canal town known as China’s answer to Venice (pages 106 to 113), discover the tranquil beauty of the French and British concessions area of Guangzhou (pages 80 to 84), and take a tour of Beijing (pages 87 to 95) in search of the countless delicious snacks available at every corner. Enjoy!

Higher View Issue 8

Sub Editor Adam Scroggy

Creative Director Paul Cook

Advertising

Higher View is produced for

Max La-Brooy (02) 9186 9138

business-class passengers

Group Editor Alex Mead

Contributors Fiona Harper, Adrian Mourby, Sarah Coghill, Anne Smith, Pan Hua, Andrew McUtchen, May Hu, Sarah O’Meara, Mark Parren Taylor

Editorial Director Richard Ryan

max@citrusmedia.com.au

between China and Australia.

alexm@citrusmedia.com.au

Art Director Stephanie Goh Editorial Assistants Constantina Pilatos, Trent van der Jagt

Production Manager Ian Scott

on China Eastern flights It can also be found in select

Crystal Wong (02) 9186 9126

newsagents and hotels.

crystal@citrusmedia.com.au

via the App Store.

Publisher Jim Flynn (02) 9186 9196

Citrus Media

Printed by Webstar.

jim@citrusmedia.com.au

NSW 2002

Financial Controller Stuart Harle

An iPad edition is available

© 2014 Citrus Media. All rights reserved. No article or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher.

Citrus Media is a division of Media Factory Pty Ltd. While every care was taken during the preparation of this magazine, Citrus Media cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it.

PO Box 20154 World Square

All views and opinions expressed herein are the personal views of the writer/photographer and do

not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of China National Tourism Office Sydney (CNTO) or any of its employees, affiliates or agencies.

Higher View is an independent publication and is in no way endorsed by CNTO. The contents/ photos do not necessarily represent the views of China Eastern Airlines.

Double Daily

SYD/MEL To Shanghai From 30th Nov 2014

More Flights More Convenience

Contents

64

chin a

Sizzling Shanghai

23 News 时事要闻 What’s going on where across China and Australia 30 Kunming in eight stops 云南之都昆明 Here’s what not to miss in Yunnan’s capital 36 Guided tour 袋鼠岛 Get back in touch with nature on Kangaroo Island 38 48 hours in Pingyao 平遥48小时 Spend two days in this World Heritage-listed city 42 花园之州 跟潘华和胡玫一起探索这个美 得让人睁不开眼睛的维多利亚 44 Hunan nature 美丽湖南 Hunan is home to some of China’s most spectacular landscapes

珍珠的极品，美丽的化身！ 洁白无瑕的它无需雕琢，因为每一颗珍珠都凝聚了——澳洲西北碧海银沙的万年质朴…… 天生丽质的您无需开口，因为每一颗珍珠都诉说着——时尚佳人璀璨夺目的万般华美！ 澳大利亚Kailis珍珠可在我们精选的多家经销商选购。在下列地点的免税店有售： Nuance 悉尼国际机场免税商店、JR Duty Free 墨尔本及珀斯国际机场免税商店 详情请见网站：kailisjewellery.com

Contents

132

C o n t e n ts

Gucci

20

130

Proenza Schouler

96

AU S T RA L IA

The Ghan 54 Sails of the century 世纪之帆 The story of Sydney’s most iconic landmark 64 Sizzling Shanghai 上海创新美食 Explore the capital’s innovative dining scene 72 Golden miles 黄金里程 A hinterland is yin to the Gold Coast’s yang 80 Euro visions 欧洲风情 There’s a serene slice of European flavour on Shamian Island

87 Chinese takeaways 北京小吃 Find China’s best snacks in one place: Beijing 96 Platinum service on The Ghan “甘”号列车 Riding the rails isn’t about killing time, it’s about savouring it 106 Living history 江南水乡古镇 Wuzhen is a town that’s bursting with stories 114 The grape beyond 玛吉小镇 Head west out of Sydney and you’ll find a wine and food lovers’ paradise 127 Higher life 奢华生活 Some of this season’s must-haves 134 Strong looks 强韧时尚 Giorgio Armani’s Resort 2015 collection for powerful women

44

Hu nan nature

140 The Omega story 欧米茄传奇 To the moon, to Bond and beyond, we have a look at Omega’s story

156 Tie Fidelity 领结——隽永时尚 Expert tips on how to master wearing the bow tie

148 First class 路易威登时尚笔触 Louis Vuitton’s latest collection for fashionforward men

162 My higher life 访谈女骑师 Francesca Cumani talks travelling, horse racing and fashion on the field

ŕşŹá˜’áŽ˛â€ŤÝ‹×źâ€ŹÓťÎ?ŕşžŐŠŕ´Ąá?śá ž Íž ்дŕ¨&#x; áŽ‰ŕłšŕżƒŕ¸­ŕ§ˇâ€ŤÜ“â€Ź ŕšżÉťá‚ĄŕŽżâ€ŤÝ‹×źâ€ŹÓťÎ?ພՊІਗഥá?śd 8.9 mmྴᑛٙ18Kٓု‍ږ‏á?śŕ˛ d ŕ¸ ŕ§Łŕľ¨ÎĽÉ›áœ—Ë“ŕ´ĄŮ™ÖšŰ¨á?śß d Ň ß•Ń?ŕŹ¤ŕşžŐŠŕ§ˇŕśŠŇ–ŕľĽf áˆ—á“­ášŽŕşŹá˜’áŽ˛ÖœË™á ŁŕĽ§Ë¸ É™ŕź†ŇťÎľŕź‰ŕŞ‹f

Sydney 75 Castlereagh Street ¡ 115 King Street | Melbourne 175 Collins Street Brisbane 171 Edward Street | Perth 125 St Georges Terrace | 1300 36 4810 | Montblanc.com

An elegant 7.56ct tanzanite and diamond set ring from the Martin & Stein Collection.

Art hotels

Temple stay

Garden party

Eight stops…

Australian hotels that could pass as art galleries p24

Sleep in the former monk quarters of a temple p26

Enjoy a cooler Shanghai at these terrace bars p28

The essential places to visit when exploring Kunming p30

成功秘方 位于墨尔本，由Ben Shewry主厨兼管理的Attica 餐厅，在去年的 “全球50佳餐厅”榜上有名，排在 第32位，而且是榜上唯一一家来自澳大利亚或新西兰 的餐厅。浏览完整入选名单请访问 theworlds50best.com

recipe for success

Ben Shewry’s Attica (attica.com.au) in Melbourne has retained its place among the world’s restaurant elite, having been named 32nd in the 50 best. Shewry entered the list last year and his is the only restaurant from Australia or New Zealand to be awarded a placing.

For the full list, visit theworlds50best.com

news 24

艺术之州 trends

艺

术系列酒店（Art Series Hot e l s ） 已 在 本 迪 戈 (Bendigo)开设他们在维多利亚的第 四家酒店The Schaller Studio，为 澳大利亚酒店系列加入新的成员。他 们目前也在阿德莱德正在改造一栋旧 的交通运输建筑物，把它变成别具风 格的“型格”酒店，预计在今年年底 开幕。每家酒店均由澳大利亚艺术家 策划，包括John Olsen、Charles Blackman、Adam Cullen和 Mark Schaller，而每家五星级 的酒店内的设计都别具一格，套 房及墙壁上都在展示艺术家们的作 品。艺术系列旗下的酒店包括位于 墨尔本的The Blackman、The Olsen、The Cullen，还有即将开 张的The Watson，是阿德莱德首 家艺术酒店。

Fine art Some of the unique works found in art series hotels

state of the art Hip hotel company Art Series Hotel Group has added to its Aussie collection with The Schaller Studio in Bendigo. The firm’s also bringing some of the cool vibes to Adelaide, where an old transport building is currently being transformed and is set to open its doors later this year. Curated by acclaimed Australian artists John Olsen, Charles Blackman, Adam Cullen and Mark Schaller, original artwork adorn every wall of the quirky, five-star suites at Art Series hotels across the country. Hotels in the collection include Melbourne’s The Blackman, The Olsen and The Cullen, as well as The Watson, Adelaide’s first Art Series hotel. For more information, visit

artserieshotels.com.au

位

于布鲁姆（Broome）西岸的罗莉浅 滩（Rowley Shoals），九月份起提 供几种方式让旅客有幸到访这个原始而静僻 的环礁岛。登上豪华游轮“True North号” 五天游，带您到珊瑚环礁克拉克礁（Clerke Reef）探个究竟，由海洋生物学家带领您深 入礁石栖息地、像迷宫一样的珊瑚泻湖、潮 汐水道以及外礁斜坡。每人$4,995起。

倒数一个月……

One month only…

September offers one of the few windows where a handful of lucky travellers are able to visit the untouched atolls of the isolated Rowley Shoals, off the west coast of Broome.

Board luxury cruise ship True North for five days as it moors inside the shelter of Clerke Reef. Guided by marine biologists, you’ll dive reef habitats, maze-like coral lagoons, tidal passes and outer reef slopes. From $4,995 per person, visit northstarcruises.com.au

news

d o n ’ t m i ss 不 容 错 过

两地文化

一年一度的澳亚艺术节（OzAsia Festival）在阿德莱德举行，同庆 澳中艺术及文化传统的融合。2014 年澳亚艺术节将演出世界知名作曲 家谭盾的作品《女书》，是一首长 达12个乐章的交响音乐史诗。

Culture club

Each year, Adelaide celebrates the fusion of Australian and Chinese artistic and cultural traditions with the OzAsia Festival. World-renowned composer Tan Dun will grace the 2014 festivities with his latest offering ‘Nu Shu: The Secret Song of Women’, a 12-movement symphony.

For more information, visit ozasiafestival.com.au

A concierge's Brisbane 布里斯本铂尔曼乔治国王广场酒店的礼 宾部主管Stuart cook Stuart cook of Pullman Brisbane King George Square gives his city tips Must-see Brisbane attraction: Feed and pet

A new generation

Australia’s native animals, kangaroos and koalas at

Ditching the stereotypes, these newly opened restaurants are redefining Australia’s Chinese dining culture

Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. koala.net 布里斯本必去景点：到龙柏无尾熊动物园喂饲与亲近澳大 利亚的本地动物— —袋鼠和无尾熊。

A unique souvenir you can pick up: Avoid the cliché souvenir stores and head to Queensland Art Gallery and Gallery of Modern Art (QAGOMA) at Southbank for some unique keepsakes.

australianartbooks.com.au 独特的纪念品：不要到一般专门出售纪念品给游客的礼品 店，应前往位于南岸的昆士兰艺术馆和现代艺术馆选购属 于您独一无二的纪念品。

David’s restaurant

富有现代感的餐厅内，美食的灵感却来自上海的周庄古镇， 充满古时风味。大卫的餐厅内放满互不相搭的白色木质家 具，挂满盆栽以及使用中国风的餐具。 While the menu is old-school – inspired by cuisine from rural Shanghai town Zhouzhuang – the set-up is contemporary. David’s is decked out with mismatched white wooden furniture, potted plants and replica China plates.

4 Cecil Place, Prahran, Victoria, davidsrestaurant.com.au

China Diner

China Diner餐厅的名字翻译为“中国的晚餐”，但并不 是位于中国城，而是位于邦迪（Bondi）海滩。餐厅提供“ 泛亚洲”美食，酒吧餐厅的菜单选择丰富包括广东饺子、越 式法包卷、印尼椰浆咖喱、四川火锅及甜点泰式糯米饭。 On the shores of Bondi Beach, instead of the streets of Chinatown, China Diner’s pan-Asian bar-restaurant menu meanders from Cantonese dumplings to Sichuan hotpots.

75-79 Hall Street, Bondi, New South Wales, chinadiner.com.au

Uncover the city’s history: For a quick city tour, visit Brisbane City Hall Clock Tower. Tours run daily and are a fun way to discover the city’s history. 探索城市的历史古迹：到访布里斯本市政厅的钟楼来一趟 快速的城市之旅，以有趣的方式来体验这个城市的历史。 导览团每天开放。

Dine at: The Brisbane restaurant scene is substantial, and there are always trendy new places to explore – particularly in hidden laneways. For a unique experience, head to Pony on Eagle Street Pier, where an open kitchen is on display with a

Shor t stay

coal pit and there great river views.

ponydining.com.au

Joining capital cities

用餐场所：布里斯本常有新潮的新地方让我们探索，特别

Beijing and Shanghai,

餐厅来一个独特的用餐体验，餐厅内的开放式厨房内设有

Guangzhou has introduced

是在隐蔽小巷之间。到访Pony on Eagle Street Pier 一个煤窑，餐厅外还有美丽的河景。

a 72-hour Visa-Free Policy

Phrases that might be helpful: Don’t be

for those in international

afraid to use the word ‘mate’ to refer to people.

transit. So now you can enjoy the best canton has to offer without the paperwork!

v isitg z.c om

In Australia it is not considered slang and is just another way of saying ‘friend’. 有助沟通的语句：不要害怕使用“mate”（伙伴）来形容 人。这个字在澳大利亚并不算是俚语，而是用来形容朋友的 另外一种表达方式。

25

beijing

d o n ’ t m i ss 不 容 错 过

c r e at i v e t h i n k i n g 26

Beijing’s 798 Art Zone is far from your typical 19th-century art gallery.

Set in a decommissioned military factory where nearly 400 institutions – galleries, private studios, cultural companies – reside, the space is at the forefront of the city’s cutting-edge, contemporary art scene. Come September, the zone will celebrate its artistic charm with the 798 Art Festival. More than 150,000 people visit the specially curated event that showcases leading contemporary artists. 798art.org

Hop stars Beer is set to flow at Beijing’s International Beer Festival in August. Local brewers showcasing their best drop include Arrow Factory, Bad Monkey, Boxing Cat, Great Leap, Jing A, Le Ble d’or and Slow Boat.

Xiedao, Chaoyang District

hot hotel

Sleep temple

Beijing has released

In the 1600s it was a place Buddhist monks would reside. Today The Temple Hotel is open to the public. With eight guest rooms – four of which are housed in former monks quarters – the hotel’s centrepiece is Zhizusi (The Temple of Wisdom), an authentic example of Chinese Buddhist temple architecture. Just a short walk from the Forbidden City, the heritage complex includes the Temple Restaurant and art galleries. From $350 per night, visit

a list of tours

thetemplehotel.com

Wonder w a ll Escape the tourist traps of the Great Wall by visiting the newly reopened Simatai section. Bespoke

frequenting the spot.

be s poke - beiji ng.c om

shanghai

Art of food

28

V

Espertine is the newest addition to the Shanghai dining scene. Backed by an American and Shanghainese who own the largest Aston Martin dealership in the world, and with American chef Christopher Hora on the stoves, the menu showcases unique dishes such as smoked octopus with avocado brulee and tzatziki ice cream – sure to drag the hip crowd out to its Cool Docks location.

505 Zhongshan Nan Lu, near Maojiayuan Lu, Huangpu district

S ec re t g a r d en As Shanghai settles to a nice temperature after a sizzling summer, terrace bars are the places to be Azzurra Just steps from the hustle and bustle that surrounds the Pushkin monument, Azzurra’s small space focuses solely on Italian wine.

Keeping things Italian, if peckish you can order gourmet pizza from the joining restaurant. 156 Fenyang Road

Fenyang Garden Hotel A weekend-only café spot (look for the blackboard that reads ‘garden afternoon tea’), sit out on the small terrace at the back of the café, which opens out onto a glorious lawn, and enjoy some afternoon tea. fenyanggardenhotel.com

A m e r i c a n s w e e t h e a r ts Bubbles bar This bar provides a laid-back alternative to flashy champagne joints. It boasts two mini terraces hidden at the back, where a handful of tables are tucked away at treetop level. Drinkswise, there are eight varieties of Freixenet (Spanish sparkling wine). 110 Fenyang Rd

America’s favourite casual-luxury brand, Abercrombie & Fitch, has hit China, with its flagship store opening in Shanghai. You can expect to shop all your basics at the four-storey West Nanjing Road location, as well as be greeted by the brand’s signature topless male models. It is the first of a hundred stores set to open across the country within the next decade.

abercrombie.com

Luxury TRUE NORTH Adventure Cruises Luxury Adventure Cruises

An adventure on the TRUE NORTH is one of Australia’s most revered holidays! Bigger ships cannot go where we go!

Extended periods at sea are specifically excluded and daily activities can include scenic walks, fishing, snorkelling, diving, scenic flights in the ship’s helicopter and cultural events. We deploy comfortable expedition boats (not rubber boats) and discover wilderness in small groups. An AUSTRALIAN crew uniquely chaperones every experience. Beware of imitations and discover for yourself why our guests consistently remark “that’s the best holiday I have ever had!”

The TRUE NORTH’s Kimberley Wilderness season runs from March until September each year. North Star Cruises pioneered adventure-cruising in this stunning region – nobody knows the Kimberley like we do!

The TRUE NORTH is an Australian registered ship and is not required to exit territorial waters on domestic voyages – our Kimberley cruises are conducted entirely in the Kimberley!

Book now to secure the best cabins on your preferred departure date!

North Star Cruises Australia Tel: (+61 8) 9192 1829 Email: cruise@northstarcruises.com.au www.northstarcruises.com.au

Twenty Five Years of Adventure

KUNMING

e ss e n t i a l

Kunming . . . i n e i g h t st o p s

Kunming’s growing cultural landscape has swarms of tourists marking the Yunnan capital as a must-visit on their itineraries

2

Yunnan Provincial Museum

While set in a 1950-era building, Yunnan Provincial Museum’s interiors are sparkling, having recently been renovated. It houses an exhibition based on Yunnan’s ethnic minorities, as well as a collection of artefacts from tomb excavations at Jinning on the southern rim of Lake Dian.

3

30

4

Flower and Bird Market

6

Tang dynasty pagodas

8

Green Lake

Known as ‘old street’, the Flower and Bird Market is made up of several downtown blocks where, on weekends, strollers fill up and hawkers sell endless knick-knacks, such as handmade jewellery.

Bamboo Temple

Set on Yu’an Mountain, the Bamboo Temple dates back to the Tang dynasty.

After burning down, it was rebuilt in the 15th century when Li Guangxiu, a Sichuanese folk clay artist, created 500 Buddhist painted sculptures to be distributed throughout the three buildings.

1

There’s a photo opportunity at every turn around these two 850AD pagodas. The street connecting both towers, Jinbi Lu, is filled with old men getting haircuts, slurping tea and playing their seemingly endless mahjong games.

Yuantong Temple

The largest Buddhist complex in Kunming, Yuantong Temple is more than 1,000 years old. Having undergone many restorations, its most recent overhaul has seen a statue of Sakyamuni – a gift from Thailand’s king – added to the rear hall.

5

Stone Forest

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Stone Forest is one of Kunming’s main attractions. Creating the illusion of a forest made of stone, the site was once a giant rock that has slowly eroded over, it is believed, 270 million years, creating the deep ridges and stone towers that appear to rise from the ground.

7

Hong Dou Yuan

An old-school Chinese eatery, this place is a real locals hang-out on cosmopolitan Wenlin Jie. The food is true to its region, with specialties like taoza rubing (fried goat’s cheese and Yunnan ham) and liang bai rou (peppery, tangy beef).

Originally a water reservoir for the city, today Green Lake has become a hotspot for tourists. The footpaths are lined with cafes, teahouses and shops.

melbourne

南北法术

两岸一心 United front

荣获美国音乐界的权威奖项之一葛莱美奖的音 乐剧《女巫前传》今季又来到墨尔本的丽晶剧 院，讲述两个个性相反的朋友，长大成为两个 极端的女巫——好女巫葛琳妲与西方坏女巫的 故事。上映至9月7日。

澳华历史博物馆将举办澳洲华人 系列展览，展示来自200名在第一 次世界大战中参战的澳洲华人的照 片、明信片、信件以及文物。

S p e ll binding The untold story of the Witches of Oz comes to life in Wicked. The Grammywinning musical returns to Melbourne’s Regent Theatre for another season, telling the tale of two unlikely friends who grow to become The Wizard of Oz’s Glinda the Good and the Wicked Witch of the West. Open until September 7, visit

Melbourne’s Chinese Museum will be hosting an exhibition acknowledging the Chinese Australians who contributed to World World One efforts. Photographs, postcards, letters and artefacts from the 200 Chinese-Australian soldiers who enlisted to fight will be on display from here on out. chinesemuseum.com.au

wickedthemusical.com.au

品尝威士忌 Whisky business 没有什么比得上来杯威士忌更加惬意，我们精心细选三个品尝威士忌的最佳之选 Nothing beats a dram of whisky. Here are three of our favourite places to drink it...

Baranows Lounge

Whisky & Alement

Eau de Vie

20 07年实行的禁烟令差点让这家威士忌雪茄吧 倒闭，可是这家威士忌雪茄吧的老板们想到了对 策。只需简单的两个 步骤：签下责任 豁免书，成 为会员（免费），就可以在室内享用雪茄。他们还 有350款单一麦芽威士忌供选择。

Whisky & Alement是唯一一家位于南半球且供 应苏格兰麦芽威士忌协会的酒的酒吧，使其真正独 树一帜。他们也提供珍贵的单桶原酒，但通常只有 会员才有机会品尝，这里绝对是真正的内行家们的

Eau de Vie酒吧内播放着爵士音乐及摆放着超 过20 0款威士忌。如果您愿意尝试新产品，可以 点一杯 Noble Experiment鸡尾酒。调酒师在 把液氮舀起来，为您制作这款冰冻马丁尼前，会 带上护手套和护目镜。

The 2007 smoking ban almost put a stop to this whisky and cigar bar, but the owners of Baranows Lounge found a loophole. Sign a waiver, become a member (for free) and you can spark up indoors.

The whisky list is impressive, featuring 350 single malts. baranowslounge.com.au

人间天堂。 Truly setting themselves apart, Whisky & Alement is the only bar south of the equator serving The Scotch Malt Whisky Society’s gear. It stocks single-cask goods that are usually hard to get a taste of and only reserved for members. This is a haven for connoisseurs. whiskyandale.com.au

Jazz tunes fill Eau de Vie, along with more than 200 types of whisky. For those willing to try something new, the Noble Experiment cocktail is for you. Bartenders don gloves and goggles before ladling up liquid nitrogen to serve you this ice-cold martini. eaudevie.com.au/melbourne

33

sydney

床上的早餐 B r e a k f a st i n b e d 美味的早餐并不是一流的咖啡厅的专利， 以下这些酒店也提供在悉尼一些最滋味的早餐 It’s not all about cool cafés – these hotels offer some of the best breakfast menus in Sydney

寻找艺术宝 Hide and seek

Art&About艺术节从九月中旬开始在悉尼举行，可以注意一下 周遭有没有任何奇怪的事情发生。从9月19日至10月12日，各样 艺术品、摄影作品及表演每天都会在城中不同的地点展出。

34

Blue Cafe at Blue Sydney

Glass Brasserie at Hilton Sydney

Blue Cafe餐厅的自助早餐的亮点是自家 制材料十足的烘豆和美味的“crunch pot”，里面有一层层的烤有机燕麦、甜酸 奶、芒果酱及浓稠的百香果酱。

希尔顿酒店的Glass Brasserie餐厅提供既丰 富又现代的美食。招牌早餐有用山毛榉木来 熏制的鲑鱼配英式土豆烤饼、以平底锅烤成 的芦笋、炒鸡蛋及嫩豆瓣菜。每晚$199起。

Highlights of Blue Cafe’s buffet spread include hearty house-made baked beans and a delicious ‘crunch pot’ featuring layers of organic toasted granola, sweet yoghurt, mango puree and passionfruit coulis. From $242 per night, visit tajhotels.com

Glass’s gourmet offerings are a mix of the hearty and the contemporary.

The signature breakfast dish features fresh smoked salmon with English potato scones, pan-roasted asparagus, scrambled eggs and baby watercress. From $199 per night, see

Keep your eye out for any strange goings-on in Sydney, as Art & About takes over from mid-September.

Installations, photography and performance will be moving around the city daily from September 19 to October 12. artandabout.com.au

hiltonsydney.com.au

Mosaic at The Westin Sydney 悉尼威士汀酒店Mosaic餐厅的早餐是注 重健康的您的最佳之选。他们提供冰冻的 鲜榨胡萝卜生姜汁、现成的蓝莓香蕉奶及 各种不含麸质的小食。每晚$410起。 Trying to avoid the temptation of buffet sweets? Mosaic is for you. Its ‘SuperFoodsRx’ selection includes carrot and ginger shots in ice water, ready-made blueberry and banana smoothies, and gluten-free nibblies.

From $410 per night, check out

westinsydney.com

d o n ’ t m i ss

爱与战 一幕是神庙里的舞姬、愤怒的神明及诡计多端 的恶棍的激烈画面，下一幕摇身变成穿着雪白 芭蕾舞纱裙子，跳着经典舞步的画面。芭蕾舞 剧《舞姬》讲述在19世紀東方品味風起的年 代，一个神庙里的舞姬与战士的爱情故事。

Love and war One moment it’s temple dancers, angry gods and scheming villains, the next it’s snow-white tutus and classical technique. La Bayadère follows the love story of a temple dancer and warrior. australianballet.com.au

软冰淇淋当道 软冰淇淋又火起来啦！一直以来软冰淇淋跟冰淇淋卡车总 是形影不离，现在Hartsyard餐厅把它带进了高端用餐场 所。这家位于市中心的餐厅在软冰淇淋中加入各种新颖的口 味如柠檬蛋白酥、草莓芝士蛋糕及土耳其风味，让这款街头 小吃以新的面目示人。

Going soft

Soft-serve ice-cream is cool again! While forever an ice-cream truck staple, it’s now hitting the fine-dining scene thanks to Hartsyard. The innercity restaurant has resurrected the street snack by adding flavours such as lemon meringue, Turkish delight and M&Ms. hartsyard.com.au

， 。

，

。

linneys.com

Perth Sydney

guided tour

things to do

袋鼠岛 Kangaroo Island 无尾熊、袋鼠、针鼹、袋貂和海狮，与Sealink公司的本地导游Marc Warren一起来近距离接触澳大利亚一些著名的本土野生动物 Koalas, kangaroos, echidnas, possums and sea lions... get an up-close look at some of Australia’s renowned native wildlife with SeaLink’s local tour guide marc warren

36

Seal Bay Conservation Park 登上从杰维斯角出发前往袋鼠岛的渡 轮来开始新的一天，途径巴克斯泰斯 海峡，全程只需45分钟。到达后，我们 立即前往海豹湾保护公园，近距离观 看栖息在海滩上的澳大利亚海狮。 The day begins with a quick 45-minute ferry ride across Backstairs Passage from Cape Jervis to Kangaroo Island. Once docked, we head to Seal Bay Conservation Park to get up close with Australian sea lions as they frolic and laze about on a white-sand beach.

Vivonne Bay Lodge Vivonne Bay Bistro是一家位于丛 林里的餐厅，让您一边享用午餐的同 时，一边享受周围的大自然环境。两道 菜的西式午餐提供一些岛屿上最地道 的肉类以及餐厅出产的美食。 Set in the Australian bushland, you can effortlessly take in the surrounding turquoise waters and lush fauna while enjoying a two-course lunch featuring some of the island’s best local meats and gourmet produce at Vivonne Bay’s bistro. An appetite is most certainly required.

Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary

Flinders Chase National Park

享用午餐后，沿着汉森湾来一趟无尾 熊休闲之行。一路走在桉树之间，一边 观察树冠上有没有无尾熊的踪迹。如 果你选择夜间步行之旅，记得要参加 夜游，能遇见袋鼠、袋貂、针鼹、蝙蝠 和沙袋鼠。

走在神奇岩石和旗舰拱门蜿蜒曲折的 海岸上，必须携带相机。跟着木栈道 走下悬崖，直到看到岩石拱门和调皮 的新西兰海豹的自然保育区及栖息地。

Lunch is followed by a stroll along Hanson Bay’s Koala Walk. Weave through eucalyptus trees while keeping watch for koalas in the canopy. If you opt for an overnight package, try the nocturnal walk, where you can see kangaroos, possums and echidnas.

Take to the rugged coastline for a walk on Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch, where a camera is a must. The boardwalk will take you down a cliff face to reveal a rock archway – a natural nursery and safe haven for playful New Zealand fur seals.

Kangaroo Island Experience tour from $258; Kangaroo Island Experience plus one night’s accommodation from $368. sealink.com.au

SY D N E Y | M E lb o u r N E | 130 0 70 0 95 0 | w w w.g r Eg o rYj E w E llE r S .c o M . au 悉尼最全的精美瑞士腕表系列 p ro u d l y a c c e pt i n g china union pay

波尔、名士、柏莱士、百年灵、宝名、卡地亚、迪奥、康斯登、GC、古驰、万国、积家、浪琴、豪利时、 雷达、蕾蒙威、SEVEN FRIDAY、豪雅、天梭、帝舵、TW STEEL、优宝

48 hours in 48 hours

Pingyao Situated in the heart of Shanxi province, UNESCO World Heritage Site Pingyao is renowned for its evocative lanes 平遥位于山西省的中部，是联合国教科文组织评定的世界文化遗产，以街道两旁排 满建于明朝、清朝时代的民居而闻名，处处可以看到古时的影子。我们的旅游指南 带您探索与享受这个古代县城里最好的一切 Words and photography Mark Parren Taylor

38

Day One 第一天 9am Start the day by purchasing a general ticket, which provides admission to many of Pingyao’s historical sites. It is valid for three days, is accompanied by a map, and is good value at Y150 (allowing one entry to 20 properties).

Ticket counters are located just outside the city walls, close to the six barbican gateways. There are also kiosks at the junction of North and West Streets, or on South Street close to Market Tower.

早上9时

开始一天的行程前先购买一张“通票”，是进 入许多平遥的历史遗迹的入场票。票价是150块 人民币，能进到20个遗迹，有效期为三天，还 附送一张地图，真是物超所值。售票处位于城 墙外靠近六座城门瓮城处，在北大街和西大街 交汇处以及南大街靠近市楼的地方也有售票亭。

9.30am The best way to get an overview of this extraordinary city is to walk its 6km-long walls (general ticket). These 700-year-old defences are punctuated by six immense gates and 72 watchtowers, and they provide views across the square-mile old town and down into its maze-like lanes and secluded courtyard residences.

Entrance is via North or South gates.

eschew the food found within city walls for restaurants in the modern city outside, there is nonetheless a handful of worthwhile, comfortable options. A modest eatery at 47 Chenghuangmiao Street is a good spot for lunchtime dumplings and noodles, all freshly made in the cosy kitchen-cum-dining room. A heaped bowl of pork and chive dumplings costs Y15.

早上9时半

中午12点时

俯瞰整个非凡的古城的最佳方法是走上长达 6公里的平遥古城墙（需使用通票）。历经了 700年风雨沧桑的城门有6个大门、72座敌 楼 ，能眺望到远在平方英里外的老镇、像迷 宫一样的小巷及平民住宅中僻静的庭院。入 城是从南、北两个大门进入。

在雄伟的城墙上走完两个小时必定会引爆您的 食欲，大部分的当地人会到城外比较现代的城 市找餐馆用餐，可是城内也有既方便、舒适又 值得一去的地方。位于城隍庙街47号一家低 调的餐馆是享用午餐的好地方，他们在厨房兼 饭厅内新鲜制作饺子和面条，环境也十分舒 适。一大碗的猪肉韭菜饺子才15块人民币。

Noon A two-hour march around the extraordinary ramparts will encourage an appetite – and while most locals

1pm A few doors along, the vibrant City God Temple (general ticket) occasionally

下午1时

从餐馆走过几道门就是活力四射的城隍庙 （需使用通票），这里偶尔会有中国传统戏曲 表演，但大部分游客前来是观看令人惊险刺 激、有关于道教地狱的西洋镜。在城隍庙对 面是简朴秀美的文庙，围绕着建于1163年， 平遥现存最古老的建筑——大成殿。

3pm

下午7时

就算您不是住在天元奎客栈舒适的庭院客 房，也可以到他们家的餐厅品尝美味的地道 佳肴。这里是一个最佳的地方来一碗猫耳面 或跟土豆和胡椒一起吃更好吃的土豆烧牛 肉，一边欣赏平遥的美景。

48 hours

hosts traditional Chinese opera performances, but many visitors come to view its unnerving diorama of Taoist hell. Opposite, the austere, handsome Confucian Temple (general ticket) is constructed around Pingyao’s oldest surviving building, Dacheng Hall, which dates from 1163.

8.30pm Afterwards, take a stroll along South Street – on warm evenings, its bric-a-brac stores and gift shops open late – and perhaps stop at Sakura Cafe for a bottle of Shanxi beer (a handy spot to exchange tips with other tourists over a bowl of local-style husked-oat noodles). Alternatively, try Jincheng Bar on West Street or, for a quiet cocktail, The Kylin Grand Hotel.

Rishengchang (general ticket) is widely acknowledged as China’s first draft bank. What started out as a pigment and dye store became, at its height, a powerful finance house with more than 50 branches across China and several overseas. The hundred-room compound contains various exhibits that illustrate the sophisticated business that was headquartered here. The general ticket also allows entry to other exchange banks, including Weitaihou Draft Bank Museum and Baichuantong Exchange Shop.

39

下午3时

日升昌票号（需使用通票）有中国第一大票 号之称，前身是颜料庄，今日成为了一家拥 有庞大势力的金融机构，50家分号遍布全 国，业务远至海外。日升昌在平遥的旧 总部建筑共有上百间房间，内有各种 展品来展示昔日繁杂的业务，证明这 里曾经是日升昌的总部。手持通票还 能进入其他的外汇银行包括蔚泰厚票 号博物馆及百川通。

7pm Even if you’re not staying in one of its comfortable courtyard rooms, Tian Yuan Kui’s kitchen prepares some tasty local and regional dishes.

This is an ideal spot to watch the world go by while sampling a bowl of cat’s ear noodles or Pingyao beef (slow-braised salted calf leg – similar to corned beef) that’s particularly yummy when served with potatoes and pepper.

Architectural masterpiece CHINA IS HOME TO SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TEMPLES IN THE WORLD

48 hours 40 下午8时半

晚饭后，沿着南大街漫步，在温暖的晚上精 品店和礼品店营业至深夜。也可以到樱花屋 来一杯山西啤酒（这里是一个跟其他游客交 换旅游心得的好地方，或许饭后再来一碗当 地风味的裸燕麦面，18块人民币）或金城吧 畅饮。如果喜欢静静地品尝鸡尾酒，麒麟阁 大饭店的大堂最适合您。

Day two 第二天 9am A brisk morning walk along West Street to the street market that sets up most mornings close to Lower West Gate – it’s convenient for fresh fruit and peanut snacks.

早上9时

在清凉的早晨沿着西大街步行到街道市场， 通常是在位于靠近下西门的位置。这里很容 易买到新鲜水果和花生小吃。

10.30am As Pingyao’s merchants thrived, so too did its armed escort agencies. These teams of kung fu-trained security guards (who escorted valuables and individuals or protected property) were first established in the 18th century, and several of their compounds are open to visits.

The First Armed Escort Agency Museum on East Street (general ticket) is a worthwhile place to start.

Other protection-service premises that are part of the general ticket include Tongxinggong Escort Agency and China Armed Escort.

早上10时半

随着平遥的商人越来越兴旺，“武装护卫机 构”也随之蓬勃起来。这些护卫队是受过功 夫训练的保卫员（护送贵重物、个人或保护 物业），最初成立于18世纪，有几个属于他 们的场地开放给大众参观，其中位于东大街 的华北第一镖局（需使用通票）值得去一看。 其他包括在通票能到访的护卫服务处所还有 同兴公镖局与中国镖局博物馆。

1pm Harmony Guesthouse is a lively hub – it’s run by the friendly Deng family, who can organise day trips, hire out bicycles and cook up some tasty regional dishes. Menu items include rolling or mountain noodle (steamed buckwheat tubes) and long yam in a sweet sauce with green and red sour cherries.

下午1时

和义昌是一家充满活力的客栈由邓氏家族经 营，他们还会为您安排日程、提供租用自行 车服务及烹调一些当地的佳肴。菜单包括小 面烤栳、蜜汁长山药与樱桃。

2.30pm Walk off lunch while exploring the stores along South Street and at the junction of North and West Streets.

Slotted in among the antique and repro shops, little boutiques specialise in regional foods such as Shanxi vinegar and packets of Pingyao beef or dried wild fruits. Local handicrafts are available in the form of tuigang lacquerware, paper cuttings (56 Zhengfu Street, for example) and cloth shoes (try Qu’s Shoes at 31

Change of pace

48 hours

CYCLING THROUGH PINGYAO IS QUITE A THRILLING EXPERIENCE

41

Eat & sleep Eat 美食

Dumpling and noodle shop 饺子面店 47 Chenghuangmiao Street 平遥城隍庙街47号 Tian Yuan Kui 天元奎客栈 73 South Street (Nan Dajie), Pingyao, 平遥南大街73号 pytyk.com Sakura Cafe (two branches) 樱花屋的两家店

86 South Street (Nan Dajie), Pingyao, 平遥南大街86号 pyyhwjb.com

North Street). Take a peek inside Changshengyuan (41 South Street) – it’s been making yellow millet wine for 400 years!

下午2时半

一边吃一边走到南大街和北大街与西大街交 汇处去探索当地的商店。发现自己置身于古 董及复古的商店之中，有小店专门售卖当地 食物如山西老陈醋、一包包土豆烧牛肉或干 野果。这里也能找到当地的手工艺品如漆 器、剪纸（地址：政府街56号）和布鞋（渠 家鞋坊：北大街31号）。然后到长盛源黄酒 （南大街41号）这家拥有400年酿制黄米酒 历史的店内转转 。

5.30pm At the end of the day, as the sun gets

low, climb the iconic 14th-century Market Tower (entry Y5, open 8am to 7pm). Its narrow, steep stairs lead to a balconied platform with satisfying views along the bustling South Street and over the jumble of smoking chimneys and traditionally tiled roofs of the Ming-era and Qing-era city. Take in the view that perfectly reflects this historical city.

下午5时半

随着太阳开始下山，爬上具标志性的14世 纪市楼来结束一天的行程吧！（入场费5块 人民币，早上8时至下午7时开放）。又陡又 窄的阶梯通向一个带阳台的平台，可俯瞰繁 华的南大街、许多杂乱的烟囱和明清时期古 代县城的传统瓦片屋顶。u

6 East Street (Dong Dajie), Pingyao, 平遥东大街6号 pyyhwjb.com

Sleep 住宿

Pingyao Harmony Guesthouse 和义昌客栈 165 South Street (Nan Dajie), Pingyao, 平遥南大街165号 py-harmony.com Jing’s Residence 锦宅 16 East Street (Dong Dajie), Pingyao, 平遥东大街16号 jingsresidence.com The Kylin Grand Hotel 麒麟阁大饭店 76 Chenghuangmiao Street, Pingyao, 平遥城隍庙街76号 kylingrandhotel.com

viewpoint 42

花园之州— — 维多利亚

潘华 胡玫

人，1851年的人口是29,000人，到1854年， 已经超过12万人，人口规模之大使藏金量极 富的美国旧金山 （三藩市）黯然 失色，故墨尔本 又被华人称为新 金山。 澳大利亚的 第一大河墨累河 从维多利亚州东 北部的大分水岭山脉发源，向西北方向弯 曲沿伸近1870公里，形成新南威尔士州和 维多利亚州的分界河，但沿河的一些主要 城镇都位于南岸的维多利亚境内。墨累河 源源流长，气势磅礴，景色壮丽，碧绿洁 净的河水浩浩荡荡，像一条缀满宝石的丝 带，一路流经奇峰兀立的悬崖峭壁、盛开

“艳丽得让人睁不开 眼睛，完美得让 人透不过气来”

Illustration: Anne Smith

维

多利亚州由荷兰人塔斯曼所发现， 比库克船长早了200年。然而，英 国人库克船长始终被认为是发现南 方大陆的第一人， 在墨尔本的费茨洛公园里甚 至还有库克船长出生小屋的遗址。其实，小屋 是1934年墨尔本建市100周年时，由澳大利亚 塞尔爵士出资800英镑，从英国买下了库克船 长故居，全部拆卸后再搬迁到墨尔本的，库克 船长本人似乎根本没有到过维多利亚。 墨尔本最先的名字是“Bear brass” ，1837年更名为墨尔本，以纪念当时的英 国首相墨尔本子爵。1851年，由于在墨尔 本附近发现了金矿，大量的移民从世界各 地前来墨尔本淘金，其中包括许多华工。由 于淘金热潮高涨，墨尔本的人口迅速增长， 并逐渐成为一个有影响力的大城市。根据历 史记载，在1836年，墨尔本的人口只有177

白色小花的红胶树林、挂满金黄色脐橙果 的庄园和青葱碧绿的葡萄园，灌溉着维多 利亚重要的北部农牧业区以及澳大利亚主 要的粮食产区。 1824年英国探险家汉密尔顿·休娒与威廉 姆·霍维尔最早发现墨累河，随即宣布建立英 国殖民区并将墨累河称为休姆河。1830年，另 一位英国探险家查理斯·斯德特也抵达墨累河 流域，将这条河重新命名为墨累河，以纪念英 国的一个战争与殖民地大臣墨累。从此，澳大 利亚最主要的内陆水道被开通。1851到1861 十年间，仅维多利亚州的黄金产量就达2,300 万盎司（715吨)，一艘艘装载黄金的蒸汽船穿 梭于墨累河流域，通过水路连续不断地转运去 海外，滔滔河水见证了殖民者的掠夺历史。 墨累河是维多利亚州的母亲河，也是澳大 利亚的生命之河。如今，墨累河成为一个著名 的旅游胜地，泛舟墨累河不仅能够尽情饱览两 岸风光，同时还可以了解维多利亚的人文地 理，历史典故，文明和文化。 如果你驱车南下，跨过维多利亚第二大 城市季隆，驶入秀丽幽静的乡间小路，在穿 越小镇Anglesea后，会突然感到眼前一 亮，一幅海天一线惊涛拍岸的画面顿时映入 眼帘。世界上最美公路之一的大洋路已经呈 现在你的面前。 大洋路全长近300公里，是一条在悬崖峭 壁中开采出来的海滨公路。一侧是浩瀚大海， 白浪滚滚；另一侧是绵绵峻山，奇峰叠出， 顺着维多利亚西海岸蜿蜒伸展。沿途的各色 景点：十二门徒、洛克阿德大峡谷、阿波罗海 湾、伦敦断桥、热带雨林等像珍珠般点缀在大 洋路上，既壮观磅礴又艳丽迷人。奔驰在大洋 路上，犹如翱翔在人间仙境，让你惊叹、迷恋 和陶醉。 维多利亚州虽然只占全澳洲总面积的百分 之三，但墨尔本作为澳大利亚的首都直至1927 年迁都到堪培拉以前，一直是澳大利亚经济文 化和政治的中心。由于她得天独厚的优越生态 环境而成为一处人杰地灵，风景奇特的花园之 州。维多利亚一年四季绿草成茵，花香四溢。 当桃花、梨花、杏花盛开时，那起伏的山坡被 点缀得五彩缤纷、万紫千红，美不胜收。还有 那玫瑰花、菊花、杜鹃 花、秋海棠等鲜花一朵 朵绽放在维多利亚家家 户户的庭院里，尽添家 庭花园的乐趣。每年的 九月，则是郁金香盛开 的季节，漫山遍野的花 朵使维多利亚变成花的 海洋。郁金香晶莹修长，透明馨香，艳丽得让 人睁不开眼睛，完美得让人透不过气来。只有 在这个万花齐放震撼心灵的维多利亚花之州， 人们才能充分感悟到花的纯情以及美的真谛。 （本文部分内容取自于由胡玫、方腾在澳大利 亚SBS国家民族广播电台编播制作的系列节目 《南方大陆—澳大利亚》。） ◆

44 hunan

Hunan nature Cliffs, mountain peaks and a 999-step staircase, Hunan is home to some of China’s most spectacular landscapes Words and photography Trent van der Jagt

Riding high

hunan

The gondola from zhangjiajie City up to the Tianmen Mountains (left) ascends 1279 metres

46

W

hen we glance down at our feet, there are a few things we usually expect to see. Shoes, socks and, most importantly, the ground. So when the latter is replaced by a sheer cliff descending into a sea of fog thousands of metres below, ‘uneasy’ doesn’t even come close to describing how you feel.

Suspended almost 1,500 metres above the Tianmen Mountain National Park – almost five hours west of Changsha, the capital of Hunan province – the last thing you want to read is a sign proclaiming the ‘Walk of Faith’.

Our guide, Tracey, doesn’t fill us with much faith either when she decides to sit this hike out. “No-one I know has ever fallen over the one-metre-high railing,” she says, trying to reassure us. “I know thousands of visitors do this walk safely, but there are some things I just won’t do.”

Kilometres of walkways meander into the distance, weaving through more than 40 peaks. The paths are built directly into the cliff face, many with sections constructed from glass planks, giving intrepid travellers the sensation of walking on thin air. On clear days, the view of the deep valleys and carpeted forest flowing into Zhangjiajie city below are the most spectacular in Hunan’s Wulingyuan Scenic Area – but unless you have nerves of steel, the typical fog cloaking the forest helps you forget how high above the earth you actually are.

Take a ride on a riverboat If hiking hundreds of metres above the earth just isn’t on your todo list, perhaps floating down a lush, tranquil river is more your scene. Shades of green trees, crisp air and towering stone peaks envelop the fresh-water Baofeng Lake, found in the heart of the Wulingyuan Scenic Area, one hour from Zhangjiajie. Take the wooden boat ride through the lake to catch a glimpse of the folk singers on the water and the Baofeng Waterfall.

wendywutours.com.au

hunan

Do the trip Wendy Wu Tours offers a range of excellent back-to-nature tours that explore the natural side of China and Hunan. Many will take you to some of the most beautiful hidden forests, valleys and mountains throughout China that are unknown to most tourists.

For more information, visit

47

“ a sheer cliff descending into a sea of fog thousands of metres below ”

Don’t look down (left) the start of the ‘Walk of faith’, a glass -bottomed walkway built onto the face of the cliffs. (right) A boy tying his wish ribbon in the forest of prayers

hunan

“ R ivers of mist swirl and engulf the trees below , leaving only thousands

50

of floating peaks ”

Once you’ve made the trek around the cliff face and let your stomach settle back into place, you’ll be met by the looming Heaven’s Gate, an imposing natural cave arch penetrating the mountain peak. “It’s just an easy 999-step staircase to the top,” says Tracey, motioning towards a near-vertical climb that has much more in common with a ladder than stairs.

After an hour of climbing and playing the mental game of “Quit/Don’t Quit” ping-pong, an elderly man forges ahead, looks back at our dishevelled faces and laughs. “I’m over 90 and have done this hundreds of times,” he says, shaking his head and motoring ahead.

This does not bode well for our morale. As members of our group drop like flies and head back down to the base with heads hung low, a handful reach the summit.

Standing inside the commanding doughnut hole, panting uncontrollably and surrounded by a sea of prayer ribbons, it becomes clear why Tianmen Mountain has become such an important destination.

For centuries, Tianmen Mountain has watched over Zhangjiajie – located in the north-west of Hunan – becoming a holy site among locals. In approximately 263AD, during the Three Kingdoms dynasty, a landslide caused the two limestone peaks to collapse, creating the keyhole-like cave. During the Tang dynasty, the Heavenly Gate Mountain Temple was erected on the western side of the mountain to honour the holy site and serve as the centre of Buddhism for western Hunan.

To reach the walkways and the notorious Heaven’s Gate, there are two options – each a manmade marvel in their own right. The first and most common option is the cable car from Zhangjiajie to the peak. Considered the longest passenger cableway in the world, its total length of 7,455 metres is made up of 99 gondolas that ascend a vertical distance of 1,279 metres. The other, less-direct route is the 11km winding mountain road that takes passengers through 99 hairpin bends directly to Heaven’s Gate.

Zhangjiajie isn’t just home to the Tianmen Mountain ranges; it is also the launching pad for the greater Wulingyuan Scenic Area. If you have seen James Cameron’s

Avatar (if you haven’t, why not?), the Yuanjiajie Scenic Area – home to the floating stone pillars of Pandora – will be familiar. After an easy 40-minute drive and a short bus ride from Zhangjiajie, you’ll find yourself staring over an expanse of countless spires jutting from the misty, deep valleys below, half expecting Sam Worthington (Avatar actor, do keep up!) to soar past on a mountain banshee (admittedly, you’ll probably have had to see the film to know what a mountain banshee is – Google it).

Named a UNESCO site in 1992, the Yuanjiajie Scenic Area saw an enormous rise in visitors in 2009, after the filming for Avatar (did we mention it was filmed here?) began, and has maintained its popularity. Its paths and walkways, which twist along the summit of the plateaus, can be as exhilarating at the walkways of Tianmen Mountain, but with the added hustle and bustle of thousands of visitors sharing the trek with you.

Rivers of mist swirl and engulf the trees below, leaving only thousands of floating peaks in various postures, each more uniquely shaped than the last. One of the most compelling formations is the Bridge Under Heaven, a natural stone bridge stretching across two peaks.

It spans 25 metres with a vertical height of 357 metres, and is the highest natural bridge in the world. Another peak named Hanging Waterfall features a 200-metre-high

hunan 51

Bridge to heaven Millions of Years of wind erosion and flowing rivers have created a natural bridge hundreds of metres above the valley below (above); expect 99 hairpin bends to the top of the tianmen mountains (left)

Hunan by numbers

2,009 metres

The peak of Hunan’s tallest mountain, Huping Mountain in Changde.

6.37 million

Hectares of Hunan that are covered by forest.

1982

hunan

The year Zhangjiajie was declared as China’s first national park.

350BC

The year Hunan entered the written history of China.

66 million

The number of people living in Hunan.

5

The percentage of China’s population that lives in Hunan.

52

Rock star (left) This 999 -step staircase to ‘Heaven’s Gate’ is not for the faint of heart. Wulingyuan Scenic Area (above) is made up of countless sandstone spires reaching as far as the horizon

“ the thick mist laden valley floor adds an entirely new perspective on the regio N ” waterfall that transforms churning water into mist.

Alongside these is every manner of mythical-shaped mountains, each taking on different forms, depending on who you speak to. Toads, turtles, peacocks and even raunchy men and women make an appearance among the crowds of obelisks. While these sandstone towers may resemble many zones in the Wulingyuan Scenic Area, their formations are quite different from the rest of the mountain ranges. The deep gorges and rivers flowing through the mountains, paired with high winds and brittle sandstone, has caused these pillars to be carved and splintered over millions of years.

The main tourist walk, which starts at the Golden

Whip Stream, can take up to two hours, with viewing platforms scattered generously along the path. Handrails are liberally decorated with locks and prayer ribbons, with most reading “Health and Happiness”.

While most visitors brave the paths along the peak, there are also many valley hikes that take you along the prattling streams and through the thick mist-laden valley floor, adding an entirely new perspective on the region.

Hunan’s national parks aren’t for the faint (or weak) of heart, but if you are prepared to brave the heights, you will discover an entirely new landscape to explore that you won’t find anywhere else in China. There’s a time and a place for gentle strolls and leisurely afternoons – but you won’t find them here. That said, when you reach any of the tops and take in the surrounding views, you’ll definitely be glad you made the effort. u

m o r e i n f o r m at i o n For more information on Hunan’s national parks, visit wendywutours.com.au

sydney 54

世纪之帆 很难相信悉尼歌剧院才刚刚庆祝完40周年 纪念，不过Trent van der Jagt认为在它竣 工开幕之前已经引起了许多争议

sails of the century It’s hard to believe the Sydney Opera House has only just celebrated its 40th birthday, but even before its doors opened, it caused plenty of controversy Words and photography Trent van der Jagt

sydney

1

Photo: Ethan Rohloff; Destination NSW

56

957年，一位名不见经传的 丹麦设计师Jørn Utzon的设 计方案雀屏中选。这不是一 般的设计竞标，而是建设悉尼具 代表性的悉尼歌剧院。 完成这个项目绝非容易，有 别于一般的古老音乐厅，这座建 筑要成为不仅在悉尼，更是澳大 利亚艺术文化的殿堂。目标是让 这里成为一般上班族的家庭能跟 富有艺术气息的贵族们一起体验 最好的欧洲文化的地方，充分有 效地把这个年轻的国家与其欧洲 的根源连起来。 可是在这一切发生之前最重 要的是兴建一座让世界瞩目、让 世人哇然的建筑，Utzon大胆前 卫的设计理念因此被选上。其设 计的灵感来自古玛雅和希腊建筑 的建筑风格，并且结合一系列的 帆状壳片。Utzon希望达到像阿 兹特克金字塔一样，成为人们远 离日常烦嚣，进到一处能与神交 通的圣地（在这里就是跟艺术交 通）。“Utzon融合古今，创造 了一个富有诗意的地方，”记录

片《歌剧院专案》的导演兼编剧 Sam Dous解释说：“他每件事 情都亲力亲为，连所有的把手和 洗手间都亲自设计，确保一切的 大小细节保持和谐一致。” 随着建筑的早期已不断出现 当时还没有解决方法的各种问 题，Utzon被逼着要找出各样的 解决方法，而这些方法却成为了 建筑界在未来几年重大的突破。 身为早期建筑的先驱，Utzon面 对最大的挑战就是如何搭建出 帆状屋顶，最后使用2,000多条 钢筋混凝土肋骨拱来解决了技术 问题，使他的这个设计有Utzon 的“球形解决法”之称。这些屋 顶的曲面同属一个基座，这个创 造性的建筑设计至今仍然被认为 是卓越非凡的。实际上，这也是 世界上最雄伟的一座无柱建筑。 可是虽然Utzon如此的聪颖绝 人，过程中问题还是连绵不断。 Dous说：“一开始的时候， 人们对待Utzon就像对待艺术家 一样，他想要的一切都获得批 准。可是当政府介入参与改动，

I

n 1957, Jorn Utzon, a relatively unknown naval architect from Denmark, won a design competition.

It wasn’t your average design competition – this was a big one: to build the Sydney Opera House. This building wasn’t to be just any old music hall; it needed to a focal point for all of Sydney’s – nay, Australia’s – cultural goings on. The brief intended it to be a place where average workingclass families could rub shoulders with artsy aristocrats and experience European culture at its finest, effectively putting a young nation in touch with its continental roots. But, most importantly of all, it needed to make a statement; one loud enough for the world to hear and glance over its shoulder to see who was making all the racket.

As such, Utzon’s design was suitably bold and radical, drawing inspiration from ancient Mayan and Greek architecture and incorporating a series of sail-like overlapping shells. His goal was to create it as a processional, akin to the pyramids of the Aztecs, a site where people could leave their normal lives and ascend to a plateau where they could communicate with God (or in this case, art). “Utzon fused the ancient with the modern to create something truly poetic,” explains Sam Dous, writer and director of The Opera House Project. “He considered every detail himself right down to the crafting of the handles and toilets to make sure everything worked in unison.”

With more design problems than answers early in development, Utzon was forced to overcome each hurdle, many solutions becoming important breakthroughs in architecture as a whole for years to come. Pioneering at every stage, Utzon’s greatest challenge was the design of the shells that make up the sails. Made from 2,000 concrete ribs, his design became known as Utzon’s ‘Spherical Solution’. They

sydney 57

“ U tzon fused the ancient with the modern to create

Photo: Jack Atley

something truly poetic ”

Fine detail Everything down to the theatre lobbies echo utzon’s vision of enhancing the performances

t im el i n e 1954

1957

1959

1960

1966

1973

悉尼交响乐团的指挥家 Eugene Goossens认 为需要一个歌剧院，建 造悉尼歌剧院的计划便 开始了。

丹麦建筑家Jorn Utzon 被公布成为歌剧院设计 竞赛的优胜者。

施工全面展开，预计4 年完工。

举行了第一场非正 式的演出，歌手Paul Robeson为工作者 献唱。

Utzon辞职。新任的 工程部部长David Hughes质疑Utzon的设 计，Utzon被逼离职。

正式开幕。9月28日 在戏剧院（Opera Theatre）演出Sergei Prokofiev的歌剧 《战争与和平》。

The first unofficial performance takes place as Paul Robeson sings to the workers.

The new works minister Davis Hughes questions Utzon’s designs, which forces the Dane to resign.

Eugene Goossens, conductor of the Sydney Symphony Orchestra, puts the case forward for a dedicated Opera House.

Danish architect Jorn Utzon is announced the winner of the Opera House design competition.

Kindred spirits Sydney’s two most iconic structures complement each other side by side in Sydney’s harbour

Construction begins with an original estimate of four years for completion.

The official opening.

A production of Sergei Prokofiev’s War and Peace is given in the Opera Theatre on September 28.

1980

1990

1999

2003

2007

2013

英国女王伊丽莎白二世 再次到访悉歌剧院。

南非总统曼德拉Nelson Mandela在歌剧院的台 阶上向全国人民进行有 关饶恕的演说。

Jorn Utzon重新以顾问 的身份被歌剧院雇佣， 执行往后的工程。

Utzon被授予建筑界的 最高荣誉——普立兹克 建筑奖，歌剧院也被公 认为一项建筑杰作。

被联合国教科文组织评 为世界文化遗产，是世 界上最年轻的历史建 筑物。

悉尼歌剧院庆祝40岁 生日 。

The Pritzker Prize, the highest honour in architecture, is awarded to Utzon, and the Opera House is recognised as a masterpiece.

The site is named a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The youngest heritage building in the world.

Nelson Mandela addresses the nation from the steps of the Opera House, speaking about forgiveness.

Jorn Utzon is re-engaged by the Opera House as a design consultant for future work on his masterpiece.

The Sydney Opera House celebrates its 40th birthday.

sydney

Queen Elizabeth II visits the Sydney Opera House again for a Royal variety performance.

59

sydney

“歌剧院有7个剧院供表演用， 每年举办超过1,800场不 同类型的演出”

60

The Utzon Room designed by utzon himself in 2004, Elegance, intImacy and acoustics make this one of the world’s standout theatres

Show and tell Daily tours of the Opera House run every 30 minutes, including Asian language guides.

The true history of the Opera House features everything from plot twists and cliffhangers. If you are feeling game, you can also take part in the Sky and Sails tour which features a full interior tour followed by a seaplane adventure around Sydney’s harbour and coastline. Tours start from $37,

sydneyoperahouse.com

Photo: Rachel Bajada

以当他一离开，妥协只会变本加 厉。” 不过最终澳大利亚熠熠生辉 的杰作还是完成了。悉尼歌剧院 于1973年落成，由英国女王伊丽 莎白二世揭幕剪彩，Utzon也被 澳大利亚皇家建筑师学会授予金 质奖章。歌剧院的光芒盖过了一 切，工程上所遇到的各种困难迅 速成为历史的一部分。 今天，坐落于悉尼海港本尼 龙（Bennelong）的帆型建筑 闻名举世，这座极具特色的建 筑不仅是一处供大众拍照的好地 方，还是澳大利亚歌剧团、悉尼 戏剧团及悉尼交响乐团以此为家 的地方。 歌剧院有7个剧院供表演用， 每年举办超过1,800场不同类型 的演出，从高雅艺术及歌剧到 原住民舞蹈及庆祝同性恋节，应 有尽有。主要的场地包括琼· 萨瑟兰剧院（Joan Sutherland Theatre）和剧院最大的音乐 厅（Concert Hall），拥有约 2,700个座位，为了提升音质， 墙面上还装了木板。 2004年专门为丹麦建筑 师而设的Utzon场馆（Utzon Room），室内的设计充分地展 示他个人的特色，包括使用天然 木材以及一张14米高，色彩鲜艳 的壁毯。 有别于世界各地其他的历史 建筑，年轻的悉尼歌剧院只是像 一只小狗一样（他们说40岁生命 才正式开始），可是歌剧院在过 去的40年却带来了巨大的影响， 包括被联合国教科文组织评为世

“这也是世界上最雄伟的 一座无柱建筑” were held up by a single podium and are still considered remarkable today – in fact, they’re believed to comprise the largest pillar-free standing structure in the world.

For all his genius, the process was fraught with troubles.

“At first Utzon was treated like an artist,” continues Dous, “anything he wanted was approved, but with a change in government and a shift in public perception of what the thing was and why it cost so much, a lot of knowledge gaps began to show.”

Davis Hughes, the then minister for public works, was among those unimpressed with Utzon, speaking strongly on moving the project in new directions and often suggesting that he did not understand the worth of the entire project.

His claims weren’t completely unfounded. A project that had initially been estimated at $7 million to completion soon had costs spiralling out of control.

It was perceived that too much of the taxpayers’ money was being sunk into the project and the only way to get it back on track was to have Utzon step down. “Utzon saw that Davis Hughes had his own agenda and that the Opera House couldn’t have two masters,” says Dous. But Utzon, viewing himself as an artist, could not continue under so much negative scrutiny and saved the powers-that-be the trouble by resigning and moving back to his native Denmark. Predictably, this caused even more chaos.

The Dane’s resignation triggered protests and marches through the streets of Sydney led by Australian architect Harry Seidler and author Patrick White, demanding he be reinstated. He wasn’t. The government had vastly underestimated how important Utzon and his Opera House project had become to the public.

Without his know-how at the helm, the project began to falter even more. With a number of new architects and engineers taking over the reins, the project ended up taking an extra 10 years and costing $95 million more than expected. If they thought the money being spent was crazy when Utzon was in charge, without him there, it was sheer lunacy. “While Utzon was leading the charge, he had to compromise too much, and once he was gone the compromises only built up,” explains Dous.

Eventually though, Australia’s gleaming new trophy wife of a building was complete. But this trophy was not just about style; it had substance too. When the Sydney Opera House was finally opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1973, Utzon was awarded the Gold Medal of the Royal Institute of Architects Australia. Standing there in all its glory, the troubles of the Opera House’s creation fast become consigned to history.

Today, there are few people that wouldn’t recognise the theatrical sails framing Sydney’s Harbour on Bennelong.

However, there is a lot more to the Opera House than a great photo opportunity; it is, after all, the home of Opera Australia, the Sydney Theatre Company and the Sydney Symphony Orchestra.

Every year it hosts over 1,800 shows across the seven performance theatres ranging from high art and opera to Aboriginal dance and Mardi Gras. While most of the main theatres were never actually designed by Utzon, they each

sydney

再加上大众对整个项目的看法转 变以及质疑为何需要耗资那么 多时，开始浮现许多知识上的 差距。”当时的公共工程部部长 David Hughes与对Utzon不满 的人站在同一阵线，坚持改变工 程的方向以及经常提出不能理解 整个项目的价值。其实他所讲的 也不是完全空穴来风的，一个预 计需用700万的工程，却很快便 发现成本失控。 他们认为耗费太多纳税者的 金钱在这个项目上，唯一的解决 方法就是让Utzon退任。Dous 说：“当时Utzon看到David Hughes的立场坚定，也知道歌 剧院的项目也不可能有两个主 导，”Utzon认为自己是一个艺 术家，不能长期受到太多负面的 审视，所以干脆辞职回到家乡丹 麦。可想而知，这一举造成了更 多的混乱。 Utzon的辞职引发抗议和游 行，由澳大利亚建筑师Harry Seidler与作家Patrick White带 领群众在悉尼的街道上进行抗 议，要求Utzon被复职。当地政 府大大低估了公众重视Utzon以 及其歌剧院项目的程度。 在没有Utzon专业独到的带领 下，整个工程开始比以前出现更 多的问题。由几个新的建筑师和 工程师接手，整个项目最终用了 超过预定完工时间十年的时间和 超出预算9,500万。如果他们认 为Utzon在任时耗资达到疯狂的 程度，在他卸任后简直就是精神 失常。Dous说：“Utzon执导项 目时有太多的事情需要妥协，所

61

sydney

maintain his original vision of enhancing the performance through the space itself. The main venues include the Joan Sutherland Theatre and the Concert Hall, the largest of the venues with almost 2,700 seats and made up of a wooden shell enhancing the acoustic quality.

The Danish architect has also been immortalised through the Utzon Room, which was dedicated to the man himself in 2004. It showcases his signature features of natural timbers and finishes and a 14-metre brightly coloured tapestry.

Unlike other heritage buildings around the world, the Sydney Opera House is still just a pup due to its comparatively tender years (life starts at 40, they say), but its impact in those four decades has been great, including recognition from UNESCO. “Normally heritage buildings are old sandstone castles,” explains Bob Moffat, manager of building strategy and planning at the Opera House, “but this is a modern structure used 363 days a year with thousands of events, so combined with its cultural importance and design genius the site was always going to become a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was just a matter of time and gaining enough acceptance that a modern building could actually get heritage listing.”

Such awards are a testimony to the work of Utzon, who sadly passed away in 2008, aged 90. Sadder still is the fact he never actually returned to Australia to see his work in all its completed glory. But even when he lived, tens of thousands of miles away in his native Denmark, you can almost guarantee he was able to bask in the reflected glory of Australia’s greatest ever architectural creation. And as for the Australians for whom it was created, they’ve been making a racket ever since. ◆

62

界文化遗产。建设战略和规划经 理Bob Moffat解释说：“历史 建筑一般而言都是古老的砂岩城 堡，但悉尼歌剧院却是一年363 天都在营运的现代建筑，每年举 行几千个活动。结合它对文化的 重要性及其出众的设计，使它成 为世界文化遗产之一。只是需要 长一点的时间让大众能完全接受 一座现代建筑被列入文化遗产的 事实。” 这些奖项与尊荣证明了设计

师Utzon无比的贡献，他于2008 年辞世，享寿90岁。遗憾的是， 自从他离开澳大利亚后，再也没 有重登这块大陆，至今也没有实 地看看自己设计的这座闻名遐迩 的建筑奇迹。可是值得庆幸的 是，他生前虽然住在距离悉尼数 千英里的丹麦，仍然能够享受这 座澳大利亚有史以来最伟大的建 筑杰作所带来的尊荣。至于澳大 利亚人，他们的“哇”声自此之 后再没有停止过。 ◆

观光导游

歌剧院每天举行的观光导游每隔30分钟一批，有精通亚洲语言 的导游为您讲解歌剧院富有戏剧性的历史。如果您希望活动一 下，可以参加“天空和帆观光导游”（Sky and Sail Tour）， 在悉尼歌剧院内部一探究竟，然后登上水上飞机俯瞰悉尼海港 和海岸线。观光导游每次$37起，sydneyoperahouse.com

It’s showtime (top) The Concert Hall, the largest venue in the Opera House; (bottom) The sails of the roof feature 1,056,006 tiles made by swedish company Hoganas

2013 2009

In the past decade, China’s trendsetting metropolis has become a gastronomic powerhouse. Sarah O’Meara explores the city’s innovative dining scene

“H

ugh Grant and John Cusack were here last weekend,” says our host brightly, as my husband and I walk along the corridor to the Mandarin Oriental’s Yong Yi Ting restaurant.

Above our heads, lampshades inspired by Chinese wine jars light our way towards a modern dining room that feels fresh, yet traditional, with translucent embroidered screens separating the tables, chilled music and an avant-garde waterfall feature. The glitzy five-star hotel in Shanghai’s Pudong district has barely been open a year, but it’s already made its mark – and not just when it comes to welcoming A-list movie stars.

Yong Yi Ting has been acclaimed by critics as offering the most innovative examples of contemporary Chinese cuisine in the city.

Developed by one of the country’s brightest gastronomic talents, chef Tony Lu (currently number 26 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list for his Shanghai restaurant Fu1015) is cited by experts as China’s touchstone for modern dining.

The menu is a sublime culinary combination of ancient and modern practises that, he says, is fundamental to his approach.

“We create new flavours to suit contemporary clients. And the new creations may be tastier than those in their memories,” Lu explains.

The Shanghai dining scene has achieved a remarkable transformation in the past two

decades. Rewind 20 years and the city was dominated by a small selection of conservative, state-run restaurants. Now there are more than 90,000 dining venues, according to restaurant review website Dianping. And while that number might include every little dumpling stand, it also represents a significant influx of high-end restaurants.

With its booming economy and robust investment scene, the city is the perfect launchpad for budding restaurateurs, both from China and the west. Shanghai restaurants currently take five spots in the prestigious top 50 best restaurants in Asia list.

“The western food scene is pretty cutting-edge,” says Shanghai-based food writer Crystyl Mo. “Everyone wants to be here because you can get financing, find collaborators and open

Photo: Scott Wright of Limelight

shanghai 64

Sizzling

Photo: Scott Wright of Limelight

Sha n g h a i

Light show Ultraviolet uses uv lights to highlight the colour of food

Photo: Scott Wright of Limelight

shanghai

“ S hanghai is open - minded and ready to embrace unusual projects ”

66

Plate it up ultraviolet’s GUMMIES HIBERNATUS COLA ROCKS (ABOVE); Light & Salt chef Tony Lu (left); yong yi ting kitchen (far left)

Master at work light & salt Executive chef Rafael Qing (right) and one of his dishes (far right)

projects. You can bring a trend to Shanghai in the span of an airplane ride.”

Whether you’re after molecular gastronomy served in a hidden location, French cuisine that rivals the brasseries of Paris, Ethiopian food served from a pop-up kitchen or an organic, locally sourced Chinese meal in a laid-back cafe, you can find it in Shanghai.

According to Lu, customers’ tastes have moved beyond the traditional and towards a more modern appreciation of the dining experience.

“Chinese gourmands have a comprehensive appreciation criteria for high-quality dining, which is related to sensual pleasures and arousing your imagination.

“Achieving the ultimate food itself may just take up 30 per cent. The rest of the components are service, art and ambiance.”

Dishes at Yong Yi Ting include turnip marinated with soy chilli sauce that melts on the tongue like a glace cherry, a tuna tartar starter that tantalisingly combines fresh mango and plum powder, and desserts that cleverly deliver Asian flavours with a modern, western flourish.

Shanghai first found its high-end contemporary food voice with the opening of Whampoa Club at Three On The Bund in 2004.

Managing Editor of SmartShanghai Justin Fischer remembers how pioneer chef Jereme Leung turned traditional dishes such as drunken chicken (marinated chicken in yellow rice wine, steamed and served cold) on their heads.

“He served the dish in a martini glass. The rice wine was made into granita. You’ll still see this dish copied around town,” tells Fischer.

Ten years since the Hong Kong chef took Shanghai by storm, there’s been a taste revolution that culminated in the opening of Ultraviolet, ranked number eight in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants – and 58th in the world – this year.

Conceived by French chef Paul Pairet more than 15 years ago, the still new-age restaurant offers a fully immersive dining experience by implementing multi-sensorial technologies.

“Ultraviolet could have happened anywhere; I tried to launch the concept a few times in Australia, Miami and in Paris,” says Pairet.

“The reason it happened in Shanghai was the positiveness of the economy. Shanghai is openminded and ready to embrace unusual projects.”

The 3,000RMB per head restaurant was an overnight success and is regularly described by critics as “the best dining experience ever”.

Each evening, a table of 10 diners are treated to a 20-course avant-garde set menu that engages their visual, auditory and olfactory senses. “In a historical sense, we are going back to the restaurant before the restaurant. To the 17th century, before any a la carte restaurant opened. The DNA of Ultraviolet is to control the times that people eat, as well as the offering.

The principle that people can order different items from a menu to be served in a short time is not necessarily the best way to deliver a great

Art and food Food and venue alike are created by owners with aesthetic in mind

shanghai

“ T he city is also bursting with global food flavours ”

New generation Franck chef Yann Meinsel (top) and ultraviolet creator PAUL PAIRET (bottom)

dining experience,” explains Pairet.

But it’s not just the food in Shanghai that’s undergone a revolution. Eating spaces reflect the city’s fashion-conscious reputation.

Restaurant owners even go to the extent of hiring sophisticated design firms to create chic dining environments.

“People in Shanghai really care about how things look,” says Mo. “Everything is industrial chic, or sophisticated living-room style – with beautiful lighting, of course.”

New restaurant, bookshop and speakeasy bar Light & Salt is situated in a historic 1920s building on the Bund and reflects the city’s love affair with interior design. Executive chef Rafael Qing, who trained under American chef Brad Turley in Shanghai, designed a 1930s-inspired menu, which includes roasted miso cod with purple potatoes and pomegranate.

“Shanghai is good place to experiment.

It’s modern and open and has grown up so quickly,” he says. “Chinese people are focused on the whole experience of the dining, so they pay attention to decoration and the new concepts of this kind of restaurant.”

The city is also bursting with global food flavours. While international cuisine used to be

represented by a handful of high-end western restaurants in five-star hotels and a few American fast-food chains, nowadays you can eat everything from Peruvian and Mexican to Turkish cuisine.

“It’s just this wild mix that represents the parallel migration of international entrepreneurs from all over, bringing their cuisines and ideas with them,” explains Mo. Korean restaurant Chi-Q is the most recent addition to the modern fusion dining scene.

Developed by husband-and-wife chef team Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Marja, in collaboration with Three On The Bund, the menu comprises of dishes that marry Marja’s traditional Korean recipes with Jean-Georges’ modern spin on Asian flavours.

As Pascal Ballot, director of marketing at Three On The Bund, explains: “Our restaurant is about revealing a food culture that’s simultaneously rooted in tradition and devoted to innovation, in order to satisfy the tastes of an international clientele.”

Similar to customers in a lot of other countries these days, diners in China are also increasingly concerned about where their food comes from, says chef Tony Lu. “In recent years, people have become more health-conscious, and the dining habits of local Shanghainese people have changed tremendously. People focus more on local agricultural products and consider seasonality to be of utmost importance.”

Across the city, growing numbers of

Photo: Scott Wright of Limelight

68

“ E ating spaces reflect the city ’ s fashion conscious reputation ”

Creative spaces (Clockwise from top) Chi-q’s creative take on the seafood basket and its dining room; 28 Hubin road’s modern version of beggar’s chicken; light & salt’s mei lin’s room

Sweet and savoury

shanghai

28 hubin road’s desserts are just as good as the mains

chefs, business owners and restaurateurs are focusing on homemade, artisanal products and locally sourced ingredients.

Shanghai chef Austin Hu has staked his reputations on using locally sourced ingredients at his American-style restaurant Madison.

Meanwhile, companies such as Sololatte – who supply restaurants with fresh mozzarella – are going from strength to strength.

So with all this gastronomic activity, the question on everyone’s lips remains: When will Shanghai have its own world-beating chef who focuses solely on contemporary Chinese cuisine?

According to Pairet, it’s just a matter of time.

“I have a very strong core of people who have been with me since I arrived in 2005, who

have worked all the way up and are now on top of their game. I hope they will either open something with me, where they can take more responsibility, or find something just for them.”

Pairet also believes Chinese chefs have more of a chance to compete for top place when preparing their own cuisine.

“The things that can work are the things that are genuine. Take Franck Bistro [number 48 on Asia’s top 50 list]. It is doing a very good job because it is doing food that would be very good if it was in Paris.

“I see more and more that people are paying attention to the detail. Shanghai’s still leading the face of cuisine in China… according to me,” he says, with a smile. ◆

70

Shanghai’s most innovative restaurants Ultraviolet

Yong Yi Ting

Ultraviolet is the first restaurant to unite food with multi-sensorial technologies, in order to create an immersive dining experience. c/o Bund 18, 6/F, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, Shanghai 20000 uvbypp.cc

Tony Lu embraces innovative techniques while keeping the culinary styles of the city and neighbouring provinces, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 111 Pudong Nan Lu near Yincheng Lu Pudong mandarinoriental.com/ shanghai

Chi-Q Korean chef Marja takes age-old flavours and packs them with a modern punch. Expect East meets West fusion dishes.

Three On The Bund, 2/F, 17 Guangdong Lu, near Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu threeonthebund.com

Light & Salt This restaurant takes customers back to the roaring 20s with authentic food, decor and ambience, all served with a hipster twist Floor 6, 133 Yuanmingyuan Lu Near Beijing Lu Huangpu district light-n-salt.com

Yu’s Family Kitchen Chef Yu Bo’s 40-course tasting menu and edible calligraphy brushes are just some of reasons to visit this groundbreaking Chinese restaurant. 43 Zhao Xiang Zi, Xia Tong Ren Lu, Chengdu

企业领袖青睐 聘请精英 毕业生 根据全球大学就业排名, 2011– 2013

14P-0580

CRICOS provider: Monash University 00008C

monashuniversity.cn

road trip

黄金里程

驱车向黄金海岸内陆进发， 您将会发 现内陆与海岸的对比，前者属“阴” 后者属“阳” ，Fiona Harper写道

g o l de n m i l e s Take a drive inland from the Gold Coast and you’ll find a hinterland that is yin to the coastal yang, discovers Fiona Harper Photography Trent van der Jagt / Queensland Tourism

q u e e n sl a n d

T

here are no thumping nightclubs, glass-walled hotels or glamorous girls in golden bikinis feeding parking meters. No beaches, not a surfboard in sight.

There is, however, a mystical, almost ethereal, element lingering over the mountains just a two-hour drive west of the Gold Coast. In fact, the Gold Coast hinterland has little in common with the famously hedonistic coastal strip other than the name itself. Far removed from the glitz and glamour of the Gold Coast proper, whose skyscrapers poke above the coastal plain in the distance, the hinterland is yin to the coast’s yang.

A melting pot of creativity amidst natural beauty, artisans, craftsmen, vignerons and chefs are perfecting their craft beneath a forest canopy cloaking dramatic mountains. Here, bespoke galleries, studios and curio stores selling antiques and quirky crafts line the streets.

Maybe the magic derives from breathing in air so pure it almost hurts city-dweller lungs accustomed to filtering pollutants rather than purity. Or perhaps it has something do with the gin-clear rainwater, filtered by ancient rainforest as it trickles through the musically named Tamborine Mountain. Whatever the secret, the Gold Coast hinterland is a special place.

For a start, the mountains we see today are the remnants of the ancient Tweed Volcano that blew its top about 25 million years ago. In fact, the area now known as the Scenic Rim is the 10-millionyear-old caldera left behind once the explosions subsided. Quite the drama queen back then!

73

在

廊、工作室、售卖稀奇 这里，极目四 珍宝的古玩店，或者这 处都没有莺歌 夜舞的夜总会、 魔 法 是 源 自 于 洁 净 的 空 琉璃幕墙的饭店、穿着金 气 ， 而 这 种 纯 净 空 气 却 色比基尼在泊车电子计时 是 令 习 惯 呼 吸 污 染 物 的 城市人无所适从的。无论 表前买票的曼妙女郎，也 是什么秘密，黄金海岸腹 没有海滩或冲浪板的踪 迹 。 然 而 在 驱 车 纵 游 于 地是一处独特的地方。我 黄金海岸西部的两小时当 们今天看到的山脉是二千 中，却会发现萦绕着钟灵 五百万年前古特维德火山 毓 秀 之 美 的 山 峦 。 事 实 （Tweed Volcano）喷发 的产物，现金称为美景边 上，黄金海岸腹地（Gold 缘（Scenic Rim）的地区 Coast Hinterland）与遐 其实是一千万年前沉积了 迩闻名、属于享乐主意的 喷发物的火山口。这地方 海岸不尽相同，反之，它 远 离 五 光 十 色 的 房 地 产 的地貌变迁像是戏剧女王 般上演后，现在又回到安 商，及其在海岸平地拔地 详平静，展开缓缓的步伐 而起的摩天大厦，内陆地 悠闲地向前迈进。 区与海岸地区的对比就如 以位于雷明顿国 同“阴”与“阳”。 在这个自然的美景之 家 公 园 （ L a m i n g t o n National Park）入口 中汇聚了创造力。或许是 的 小 城 镇 卡 伦 格 拉 得到参天古林中坦伯林 山（Mt Tambourine）的 （Canungra）为例，曾 经是一座以伐木工厂为业 过滤而涓涓而流的清澈 雨水有关，艺术家、手工 的小镇，随着地主将农地 艺 家 、 种 植 葡 萄 者 、 厨 发展为葡萄园旅游，酿酒 旅游业开始陆续浮现。农 师，都在这个郁郁葱葱 的山林之下使他们的手艺 庄 民 宿 或 豪 华 旅 舍 ， 如 臻至完善。在这里，街上 辣 椒 鲁 菲 尔 斯 温 泉 旅 舍 随 处 可 见 别 具 一 格 的 画 （Peppers Ruffles Lodge

Animal instinct GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH the locals, including these ALPACAS

q u e e n sl a n d 74

Love is in the air peppers ruffles lodge & spa is a perfect away-fromit-all break for couples

and Spa）便是主要观 光点之一。此处受到广大 情侣的喜爱，作为远离尘 嚣、周末浪漫渡假的好 去处，浪漫氛围不分四季 地充斥於富有建築美感的 建築内。这是一处适合您 无论是慵懒地在床上享用 早餐、边享受精致晚餐边 品尝美酒、漫步於自然环 境还是在私人泳池边看著 Paulo Coelho小说边放 松的地方，而且还有越来 越受欢迎的休閒水疗，是 令女士为之奔走的必备行 程之一。 这里精彩的地质历史 绝对能吸引爱好大自然的 朋友前往探索满佈树林蔓

藤的山丘。美景边缘的 观光胜地天然桥(Natural Bridge)，受瀑布的侵 蚀，日积月累而形成的岩 洞，遊人可直接踏上木板 道一探胜境。自来世界各 地的摄影师纷纷踏足此处 力求得到梦寐以求的大师 之作——奔腾的流水贯穿 岩石的隙缝。此处的确值 得一览，那怕只是在壮丽 的景色下吸收一下自然的 灵气。 这里大量的步行径 能满足您想要运动双脚 的愿望。长达54公里 的黄金海岸腹地步行径 (Gold Coast Hinterland Great Walk)是属于不惧

Tamborine Mountain

Lamington National Park

坦伯林山是一条充满艺术气息、 市集、餐厅以及许多热闹节目的 山村。

被列入世界遗产生态保护区，这里 有58种植物及22种动物是被归类 为弱势群体、稀有或濒临绝种。

This mountain village has an artsy vibe, markets, restaurants and a lively events calendar to keep you occupied. If you want to shop keepsakes this place is for you. tamborinemtncc.org.au

Of ecological World Heritage importance, about 58 plants and 22 animals here are classed as rare or threatened with extinction. nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/ lamington

3 to visit Scenic Rim Trail 四天三夜的徒步旅程包括所有的住 宿、膳食和饮料，二人同行的价格 是每人$1,899起。参加者需要有基 本的健康水平来应付容易到中等难 度的路程。

Stretch your legs with a four-day, three-night walk in south-east Queensland.

Starting at $1,899 per person (twin share) including food and stay. scenicrimtrail.com

The region is far more docile these days, meandering along sedately at a leisurely pace.

Particularly so in little towns like Canungra, at the gateway to Lamington National Park. Once a former timber-mill town, now a fledgling wine industry is emerging as landowners move from farming to vineyard tourism.

Farmstay accommodation and luxury lodges like Peppers Ruffles Lodge & Spa are some of the main attractions. Popular with couples seeking a romantic weekend hideaway, romance oozes from every architecturally designed beam. It’s the kind of place where you’d linger over lazy breakfasts in bed and delight in exquisite intimate dinners matched with fine wines, interspersed by nature walks or relaxing by the infinity pool, Paulo Coelho novel in hand. Increasingly popular, too, are girly getaways, with leisurely spa pampering high on the agenda.

The legacy of the area’s dramatic geological past is a striking landscape that lures naturelovers to forest-clad hills. The Scenic Rim’s poster child, Natural Bridge, is a beauty. Carved from basaltic rock eroded by water, the bridge was once the lip of an ancient waterfall. The base of the waterfall eventually eroded into the cave that we can walk into today, via a boardwalk.

Photographers from across the globe traipse into the cave seeking the coveted ‘hero’ shot of water tumbling through the gap in the bridge. It’s well worth the short stroll along the boardwalk just to absorb nature in all her kick-butt glory.

q u e e n sl a n d

“这是一处您想要 慵懒地在床上享 用早餐，边享受 精致晚餐边品尝 美酒的地方”

75

Best of All

With panoramic views across the Hinterland towards the Pacific Ocean, the Best of All lookout is a must for anyone travelling through or near Springbrook National Park, 40 minutes from Surfers Paradise. The lookout itself will take 15 to 20 minutes and gives views of the entire Antarctic Beech Forest and Gondwana Rainforest.

观景之冠 距离冲浪者天堂(Surfers Paradise) 只有30分钟路程的瞭望 台“Best of All Lookout”，无论是遊览或只是经过春溪国家公 园的遊客必到之处，在这里可以眺望整个由内陆延伸到太平 洋的全景。走毕观景台全程需时15至20分钟，其间能够饱 览南极山毛榉林(Antarctic Beech Forest) 及岗得瓦 纳雨林（Gondwana Rainforest)的美景。

q u e e n sl a n d 76

艰辛的爬山狂热分子的 路程，另外还有短至数分 钟，由停车场至观景台的 路线可供选择。雷明顿 国家公园、春溪国家公园 （Springbrook National Park）或地势较低的那明 巴谷(Numinbah Valley) Light and simple 都是著名的爬山径，有些 THE HINTERLAND IS HOME TO PLENTY OF 路径沿着潺潺的溪流，有 FRESH PRODUCE 的通向瀑布或贯穿整个森 林。在这里有全球最密集 的亚热雨林及温带雨林， 还有澳大利亚仅余的寒温 带山毛榉森林，澳大利 亚世界遗产保护区——岗

得瓦纳雨林(Gondwana Rainforests)。你会因着 密麻麻的树木环绕而感到 高兴，而这些树林真的是 异常壮观。如果您向往沉 醉于和煦的阳光穿透于树 荫间，并享受满腔的泥土 香气，那么这里会是您的 最佳之选。无论步行或是 驾车穿越林荫大道，通常 都会难以自拔地被四周树 林美景所吸引。由林荫交 织而成，罕见的天幕、驻 足细听悦耳的小鸟歌声及 绿猫声鸟的悲鸣，另外还 有斑尾袋鼬、美丽的鸟翼

3 for sleep Peppers Ruff les Lodge & Spa

The Castle on Tamborine

The Escarpment Retreat

这里仅限成人到访，所以请不要 带上孩子。酒店的别墅客房每晚 $429起，或是可以预定套餐，包括 早餐、晚餐及水疗护理。

带有主题的酒店客房内虽然找不到 任何骑士或国王，但他们把有关于皇 室的一切与现代化的概念、科技及 古董家具相融合，使其成为这个地区 中最独特的住宿体验。套餐价格每 晚$300起。

位于坦伯林山的热带雨林之中的 是带有小木屋风格的别墅，非常 迷人。屋内设有温馨舒适的柴火壁 炉、雪松地板、温泉浴，真是热带 雨林旅游的终极享受。小屋每晚 $295起。

You won’t find any knights in these themed cottages, but they combine royal offerings with modern concepts.

From $300 per night. thecastleontamborine. com.au

We’ve found enchanting chalet-style villas tucked into the rainforest of Tamborine Mountain – the ultimate rainforest retreat. From $295 per night. escarpment.com.au

Leave the kids behind – this resort is for adults only. Villa accommodation starts at $429 per night, or book a package that includes meals and spa treatments. peppers.com. au/ruffles-lodge

If you’re inclined to stretch your legs, there’s a plethora of walking trails in the area. Some, like the Gold Coast Hinterland Great Walk (54km) are great for hard-core hikers who don’t mind roughing it. Others are little more than a few minutes away from the carpark to lookouts. Lamington and Springbrook national parks, or the lesselevated Numinbah Valley, have well-marked trails – some along bubbling brooks, others to waterfalls or looping through forest.

Some of the world’s most extensive subtropical rainforest – warm temperate rainforest – along with Australia’s last remnants of Antarctic beech cool-temperate rainforest are protected as the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area. Treehuggers, contain yourselves please! All jokes aside, these forests are seriously spectacular. If you have a yearning to immerse yourself in a pristine, sunlightdappled rainforest laden with rich, earthy aromas, you won’t find better.

Whether walking or driving through arboreal avenues, it’s hard not to be mesmerised by the beauty of the forest.

Rarely seen beyond a flitting shadow in the canopy, stand still long enough to listen out for calls from melodious songbirds or the mournful cry of the green catbird. Rare spotted-tail quolls and gorgeous birdwing butterflies are others that rely on World Heritage protection to preserve the species.

q u e e n sl a n d 77

Living the dream There’s no better way to experience the coastal views of the Gold Coast or the winding roads of the rainforest than from the comfortable seat of a full-bodied Maserati.

Getting behind the wheel of a V8 sports car and taking on all the twists and turns of the hinterland for the day will let you experience the region all from the unmatched comfort and design of one of the world’s leading luxury cars. Day rates start at $3,900 on weekdays and $8,100 on weekends. exoticsportscarhire.com

实现梦想 这世上再没有比驾驶名车玛沙拉蒂更好的方法去体验黄金海岸的美景、蜿蜒的雨林小道或品尝香醇 美酒。坐上V8跑车，漫游於整个昆士兰腹地，将会让您感受到全球最顶尖的豪华房车无与伦比的舒适 及设计。平日租用费为$3,900及周末租费为$8,100。

Cute cafés BE SURE TO STOP AT ONE OF THE BEAUTIFUL RUSTICSTYLE EATERIES

q u e e n sl a n d

“ the hike combines the best of the bush with the finest aussie h O spitality ”

78

Natural glory the view from – AND INSIDE – the gold coast hinterland is breathtaking

蝴蝶，都是依赖着世界自 完 成 第 三 天 富 有 挑 战 性 的爬山行程後，您会 然遗产的保护才得以留存 在宽敞温暖的斯帕瑟山 的物种。 继续往西前进，一条 尖小屋(Spicers Peak Lodge)享用到冰凉香 崭新的爬山径—— 美景边 缘路径(Scenic Rim Trail) 槟 及 精 緻 美 食 。 这 四 天 爬山径覆盖了全长33公 肯 定 是 一 趟 奢 华 的 爬 山 里的多面貌的地段，由 之旅，结合了最好的地 巨石河床，到牧牛草场直 方 及 最 令 人 满 意 的 澳 大 达 海 拔 1 , 2 0 0 的 斯 帕 瑟 利亚好客之道。 毫无疑问，丛林是这 山尖（Spicers Peak） ， 在 晴 朗 的 天 空 下 ， 能 里的主角，人工设施极 极目远眺到海岸平地的 其量只是扮演著支援的 摩天大楼。在斯帕瑟华 角色，它以大自然为背 蓬(Spicers Canopy) 景 ， 为 疲 倦 的 遊 人 在 踏 ， 您 能 住 在 供 有 清 洁 被 上下一站旅途前提供舒适 单 及 热 水 壶 （ 在 海 拔 的居所。放松的渡假应 1 , 2 0 0 米 高 的 夜 间 是 十 当如此，精巧却不压抑， 分寒冷的）的高级帐篷 并且远离岸边五光十色 中 体 验 两 晚 豪 华 露 营 。 的烦嚣。 ◆

Further afield westward, a new hiking trail has recently opened up. The Scenic Rim Trail covers about 33km of trails that vary from boulder-hopping along creek beds and through rolling cattle grazing lands to the summit of Spicers Peak, 1,205 metres above sea level.

On a clear day, city skyscrapers can be seen on the far coastal plain.

It’s in this area that willing participants are given the opportunity to indulge in a form of glamping (glamorous camping). Two nights are spent in uber-luxe tents at Spicers Canopy, complete with crisp linen and hot water bottles (nights are cold at this elevation).

The third day’s hiking ends with a challenging ascent, after which chilled champagne, fine cuisine and spacious suites warmed by crackling fireplaces awaits at Spicers Peak Lodge. It’s a pampered four-day hike, but one that combines the best of the bush with the finest Aussie hospitality.

There’s little doubt the bush is the star in this part of the world. Manmade infrastructure merely plays a supporting role, waiting politely in the wings for visitors to tire of the forest before stepping forward to offer comfortable lodgings and diversions to nature’s glorious backdrop. It’s kind of how a relaxed holiday escape should be: subtle and just a little subdued, devoid of any rambunctious coastal glitz. ◆

guangzhou

e u r o v i s i on s

80

In the bustling metropolis that is Guangzhou, you’ll find a serene slice of European flavour on Shamian Island. Adrian Mourby finds out more‌ Photography Sarah Coghill

guangzhou 81

T

here’s a sense of stillness hanging in the warm air beneath these great fig trees as I enter Shamian Island. If I’d crossed into Guangzhou’s French Concession a hundred years ago, Vietnamese guards would have saluted me when I passed over the narrow bridge. As a westerner, I would be allowed free access to this island until 10pm, but if I were Chinese from the Cantonese mainland, I’d have had to carry papers to admit me into the French Concession.

Shamian Island was ceded to British and French traders in 1859 after the Second Opium War – in those days it was little more than a low sandbank island lying in the Pearl River (shamian literally means ‘sandy surface’ in Chinese). Soon, stone quays were established along the landward side of the island to create a canal that formally separated the Europeans from the people they called Cantonese.

Meanwhile, two bridges were built to allow access to this narrow enclave, which is no more than a kilometre long. To the north was the British bridge guarded by Sikh soldiers in their turbans, and in the east was the French bridge guarded by Vietnamese infantrymen.

It’s ironic that on such a small spit of land, the two European communities further subdivided the island – although the two concessions did merge. Ahead of me now lies the main boulevard of Shamian Island, which

guangzhou

connected the British and French concessions.

It was known as Central Avenue in the 19th and 20th centuries right up until 1947, when it was renamed Shamian Daijie (Main Street).

It’s wonderfully overhung with trees and lined with huge houses and hotels. Faced in brick and stucco, these European mansions were fronted by balconies and verandas designed to trap any breezes that wafted up the Pearl River. There are more than a hundred of these mansions left, all in various states of upkeep.

After the 1949 Revolution, houses and even churches here were turned into offices and factories, but now many of them have been restored. The white gothic-style Our Lady of Lourdes Chapel (also known as the French church) has been reconsecrated and attracts a Chinese and European congregation here on Shamian Datjie. It sits not far from Starbucks, the ultimate symbol of Western influence.

As I wander west along Shamian Daijie,

82

“ I t ’ s wonderfully overhung with trees and lined with huge houses ”

Peace and quiet A calm oasis amidst the hustle of the surrouNDing city

I pass ladies practising tai chi in the central reservation, now designated the Friendship Garden. Near the junction with Third Street, I look in at the Customs Hotel, which looks old but was given a shining modern interior at the end of the 20th century by the distinguished academician Mo Bozhi. When the concessions were laid out back in the 1860s, all three avenues running east/west – Canal Street, Central Avenue and Front Avenue – were crossed on a grid by five numerically named streets. At their intersections, the biggest foreign enterprises were located: Royal Dutch Shell’s Asiatic Petroleum, Yokohama Specie Bank, Hong Kong and Shanghai bank, and Anderson, Misner & Co from America. Many of these offices replicate those that dominated the Bund in Shanghai.

Turning south down Third Street, I begin to encounter a number of life-size statues that have been erected in recent years. One shows a woman playing the violin while leading a group of children across the road, another depicts a western and a Chinese merchant seated together working on a deal, and a third shows three Chinese women – the first in traditional dress, the second in 1940s cheongsam and the third in shorts, talking on her mobile phone. There is a playfulness about

Shamian Island can be included as part of an itinerary with Wendy Wu Tours.

Their expert guides can help you discover the very best of Guangzhou, including the delicious world-famous dim sum that can be found right across the Guangdong province. For information, visit

wendywutours.com.au

guangzhou

Discover Canton

83

Holy site The gothic architecture of churches is a true reflection of SHAMIAN ISLAND’S origins

guangzhou

“ T here is a playfulness about this street art ”

84

Downtime locals regularly visit parks to rela x during the day

all this street art but also a celebratory quality.

The anger of the 20th century’s revolutionary times when capitalism was driven from the concessions has passed, and today it seems we celebrate the differences – and similarities – between the Chinese and the foreigners who held this tiny island for almost 200 years.

At the south end of Third Street I find tennis courts along what was once Front Street, now Shamian Nanjie (South Street), and I can look out across the Pearl River to high-rise Guangzhou, with Zhouzui Park on the opposite bank.

Walking west along what was formerly the southern shoreline, I come to the island’s

Time for bed Nanmei Osotto Hotel

Guangdong Victory Hotel

China Hotel, A Marriott Hotel

Five-star riverfront accommodation. Located within the French Concession, Nanmei Osotto Hotel combines location, luxury and one of the best views of Guangzhou from Shamian Island. osotto.com

Located on the leafy European streets of Shamian Island, Victory Hotel offers luxury neoclassical surroundings with several highend restaurants to sample. guangdong

This five-star hotel is all about convenience and elegance. Located near transport for easy access to Shamian Island, China Hotel places you in the heart of the city to explore at your own pace.

victoryhotel.com

marriott.com.au

most modern building, which was constructed on landfill at its southwestern edge in 1979.

The White Swan Hotel, also by Mo Bozhi, is currently under renovation. Its 20-plus floors rear up like a skyscraper above the rest of the concessions. It takes its name from White Swan Pond, which marked the old southern edge of Shamian Island. Beyond it, to the west, is the Italianate Christ Church, which served the British community for almost 100 years. And at the westernmost point of the island stand two cannons, all that remains of Xigu Fort, built during the Qing dynasty to guard the mainland before this island was ceded to the Europeans.

I’ve now walked the length of Shamian Island and come to the curious sight of an old French stagecoach in front of the Orient Express restaurant on Shamian Beijie. If I follow the road as it bends back to the east, I’ll come to North Bridge, the official entrance to the island for British residents. Although crossed now by a raised modern road, this stone bridge still retains much of the graceful Chinese style with which it was built in 1859.

I can leave here now, having taken time out for a restful hour or so from the captivating streets of modern Guangzhou. ◆

If you want to try China’s street snacks, you can find the best treats in one place: Beijing.

Here are some of the city’s most delicious…

Photography Mark Parren Taylor

beijing

c hin ese ta k eaways 87

中国街头小吃

倘若您想品尝一下中国的街头小吃，北京是您的最佳之选。 在这里我们为您介绍一些城中之最⋯⋯

Bite-size Beijing beijing

Specialist Beijing-based tour company Bespoke Beijing offers unique food tours that take you to the best places to find all of these street snacks and more, including the famed donkey sandwiches.

For details, visit bespokebeijing.com

88

Jian bing

A skillet pancake made from green mung bean flour, cooked with an egg and often served with a crispy fried slice and scallions.

Originating from Tianjin, it’s a breakfast staple. Find it at Doufuchi Hutong, 100m east of Bell Tower square, opposite the hospital.

煎饼

源于天津早餐的主食煎饼，以绿豆粉为主料，加点葱花和蛋液，用平底锅煎至香脆。 位于钟鼓楼西侧100米处，医院对面的豆腐池胡同。

Cong you bing

Fried flatbread (‘hard’ pancake) with diced scallions – simple and delicious. A good example can be found at a small store midway along Jianchang Hutong, which runs between Guozijian Hutong and Wudaoying Hutong, 200m east of Andingmennei Dajie.

葱油饼

简单又好吃的葱油饼，是与葱花一起煎的 大饼（口感较硬的煎饼）。左图中美味的葱 油饼来自一家位于箭厂胡同路里的小店， 在国子监胡同及五道营胡同之间，安定門 內大街西边的200米处。

Zaogao

Originally the cake of the Qing court, this sweet snack was once considered a delicacy. There are many variations, but this Beijing version is made with date, flour and sticky rice.

这是源自清廷的蛋糕，一度被公认为馔 玉。这个小甜食有许多变化，北京的版本是 由大枣、面粉和糯米而制成。

“在美食之旅中品尝 到不寻常的美味小吃时 不要感到惊讶”

Ludagun

A sticky rice, red bean paste and soybean flour cake that translates as ‘rolling donkey’. Available from Huguosi Snacks.

驴打滚

名字翻译成“在打滚的驴子”，用黄米面、 豆沙和黄豆粉而成的豆面卷。护国寺小吃 店有售。

beijing

驴打滚

89

Tang hulu

beijing

Available from the shop immediately on the left after the entrance gate to Wangfujing Snack Street. You’ll find these candied fruits being sold off the back of bikes in hutongs near tourist sights such as the Drum Tower.

糖葫芦

王府井小吃街入口的左边便能找到售卖糖 葫芦的商店。也可以在各旅游景店，如鼓楼 等，以及胡同内找到售卖这种糖渍水果的 自行车摊贩。

Tang er duo

90

“北京的市集里 有许多受中东文 化影响的小吃”

Jiaoquan

A crispy fried ring often eaten with douzhi, a mildly sour mung bean soup (bean juice).

焦圈

口感酥脆的炸面包圈，经常与味道略酸的 绿豆汤，又称豆汁，一起享用。

‘Sweet ears’ – an archetypal Beijing sugar fix made simply from sugar and flour.

Also available from Huguosi Snacks.

糖耳朵

北京传统小吃糖耳朵又名蜜麻花，以糖及面粉制成， 在护国寺小吃店也能买得到。

Luoshizhuang’r

beijing

A local bread, baked crisp. It has an attractive spiral pattern due to the manner in which the stiff dough is shaped.

螺蛳转儿

表皮酥脆的螺蛳转儿是北京的地道面包制 品，因其面团扭成形似螺蛳而得名。

91

Tasting China Exploring the markets of China as a whole is best done with a guide, who can not only give you some expert advice on where to go, but can also tell you what you're eating.

Don't be surprised if you find some unusually tasty treats on a tour with wendywutours.com.au

beijing 92

Xian bing

Fried pies, often filled with minced pork or leek and eggs. You can find them in a small store on Doufuchi Hutong, 40m east of Bell Tower Square.

餡餅 油炸馅饼——内馅通常是猪肉碎或韭菜鸡 蛋。在钟楼广场东边40米处，位于豆腐池 胡同的一家小店里能吃得到。

Shaobing

Bread topped with sesame seeds. One of many pastries found at Sihuan Market – all the stalls are in one long line, so you really can’t miss them.

烧饼

表面撒 满芝麻的面包。在 四环综合市场里找到的糕 饼之一，所有的摊位都有一 条很长的人龙，所以您必定 不会错过它们。

Shaobing with beef

An Islamic snack, exactly the same as on the opposite page, but shown here served stuffed with minced beef and leeks.

源自伊斯兰的小吃，跟左页的烧饼是一 样的东西，只是塞满了牛肉碎和韭菜。

Roasted duck

Take a whole oven-roasted Beijing duck away for just 23RMB! Even the small stalls can sell up to 200 a day.

烤鸭

全只北京烤鸭只需23块人民币！即使是小 摊每天也能卖出多达200只。

beijing

驴肉火烧

93

94 beijing

Pidan

beijing

Also known as century, hundredyear-old or even thousand-yearold egg. These are duck, chicken or quail eggs preserved over weeks or months in a mixture of salt, ash and clay. Surprisingly smooth and creamy.

皮蛋

皮蛋又称为“百年蛋”或“千年蛋”，以鸭 蛋、鸡蛋或鹌鹑蛋为制作原料，在含盐、石 灰泥及粘土的混合物中腌制几个星期或几 个月，其顺滑的口感令人惊讶。

95

“皮蛋又称为 百年蛋或千年 蛋, 其顺滑的 口感令人惊讶”

Suan nai

Suan nai – or sour milk yoghurt – is drunk everywhere in Beijing.

It’s served in a little ceramic jar with a bit of honey to keep it cool and delicious.

酸奶

酸奶就是带有酸味的优酪乳，在北京到 处可见。装在一个个小陶罐中以便保持冰 凉，喝的时候加点蜂蜜也十分可口。

96 the ghan

“甘”号列车 的白金服务 登上从达尔文到阿德莱德的火车，目的并不 是消磨时间，而是细细体会其中的乐趣

PLATINUM SERVICE ON THE GHAN Riding the rails between Darwin and Adelaide isn’t about killing time, it’s about savouring it Words and photography Ewen Bell

the ghan 98

COntact details pls, web address?

Going gold CONTACT DETAILS “黄金服务”的双人包厢比单人包厢来得更加 web address for book宽趟。“红色服务”是经济实惠之选，而 ing? “白金服务”带给您极致的服务与享受。 Gold Service twin cabins offer far more space per person than the single cabins.

Red Service is the budget option, while Platinum delivers maximum service and comfort.

一

周两次穿梭于达尔文和 阿德莱德之间的“甘” 号列车，拖着千万吨重 的车厢穿梭于澳大利亚。沿途站 点不多，所以要珍惜各个站点作 短暂停留的时间，争取充分地体 验真正的内陆地区。 有些列车的特性是速度， “甘”号列车的特性则是舒适 性。它以悠闲的节奏前进，需 要三天的时间来穿行3,000公里 的轨道，途经的站点包括凯瑟 琳（Katherine）和爱丽丝泉 （Alice Springs），供乘客观光 及卸货。 从转向架传来的轻微噪音足 以让您清楚地知道自己在车厢 内，但却还不足以让人思绪纷 乱。车厢的晃动和发出的哔剥声 就像背景主题一样，在告诉您要 放松心灵。对抗车厢内这种让人 放松的节奏的最佳方法是窗外随 着列车前进而不断变化的风景。 来自西澳阿伯尼（Albany） 的Bill Casey说：“我不能说在 火车上是在真正的睡觉，我总 是醒来期待看到窗外的乌鲁鲁 （Uluru）或是其他的东西。我真 的不想错过任何一处的风景。” Bill从西澳大利亚的南端起行，对 于沿途美丽的风景略知一二。他 珍惜沿途转瞬即逝，从头到尾都 不一样的风景。

虽然Bill的嘴巴在讲话，眼睛 却陶醉在眼前出现的山脉脊线。 在“甘”号列车上的谈话常常 被风景打断。位于最北部（Top End）的热带植物霸占了整个景 观，首次南下时最抢眼的就是木 棉花。树上的叶子每年这个时候 都会纷纷掉下来，而一朵朵的黄 花随风飘向太阳。 一天，爱丽丝泉周围的沙漠 使凯瑟琳南部的景色变成红色和 银色，而阿德莱德北部的绿色牧 场也意味着我们已来到行程的尾 声。旅程中每处的景色也迥然不 同，沙漠的景观总是千姿百态， 达尔文和阿德莱德的沿岸平原也 截然不同。 火车头后方拖着30个车 厢，“甘”号列车的总长超过 700米，要把列车停好会比一 般的流动旅馆还要具挑战性。 Jack-Pampling Jones是车长， 负责的工作包括在列车到站后指 导火车顺利停在指定的位子以及 作为客运服务及机车工程师之间 的中间人。 十多年来，在她背后的口袋 里一直装着收音机，脸上带着笑 容地为“甘”号列车服务。一边 跟火车司机沟通，一边协助旅客 在旅途中充分地享受。她认为服 务跟火车本身一样重要。 她解释道：“如果火车被延

What’s for dinner?

THE RESTAURANT-QUALITY FOOD SERVED ON THE GHAN WILL SURPRISE YOU – IN A GOOD WAY – AND MOST DIETARY REQUIREMENTS CAN BE CATERED FOR

the ghan

T

wice a week, The Ghan rolls between Darwin and Adelaide, hauling more than a thousand tonnes of carriages from coast to coast across Australia. It makes very few stops along the way, so you have to make the most of those precious whistle-stops to get a real taste of the outback.

Some trains are built for speed, but The Ghan is built for comfort. It takes three days to traverse 3,000km of track, a gentle pace that includes stops in Katherine and Alice Springs for sightseeing and unloading.

Noise from the bogies is minimal – enough to know you’re on a train but not enough to impede your own train of thought. The sway and clack of the carriages quickly become second nature during the journey, like a background theme that tells your mind to relax.

Countering the rhythmic pattern of the carriages is the stimulation of scenery as it rolls past the windows.

“I can’t say I really sleep properly on trains; I always wake up expecting to see Uluru out the window or something. I don’t want to miss a mile of it really,” says Bill Casey from Albany. Bill has travelled from the southern tip of Western Australia and knows a thing or two about beautiful scenery. He appreciates that every mile out the window is different to the last.

Bill keeps talking but his eyes are lost out there on the horizon, where a ridge line is coming into view (conversations on The Ghan are frequently interrupted by the view). Tropical flora of the Top End dominate the vista when first heading south, with kapok flowers getting most of the attention. Every year these skinny trees drop all their leaves and throw a flurry of yellow flowers up towards the sun.

A day south of Katherine, the views turn red and silver as the desert around Alice Springs come into play, while the green pastures north of Adelaide will signal the conclusion of the ride.

With 30 carriages in tow behind the locomotive, The Ghan runs for longer than 700 metres, making it somewhat more of a challenge to park than your average mobile home. Jacky Pampling-Jones is the on-board train manager, who guides the train into position when arriving at the station, acting as the interface between passenger services and the engineers in the locomotive.

99

the ghan 100

“在双人床上一 边享用下午茶， 一边欣赏美景” 误，我要跟技师商讨怎么调动时 间表，然后更新每个站点的时间 表，这些都包括在我的工作范围 之内。” 乘搭“黄金服务”或“白金 服务”的乘客于用餐时间能免费 使用阿德莱德王后餐车及酒廊， 在其余的时间如果想要多一点空 间的活也可以到这两个地方去。 设有皮革座椅和桌子的酒廊拥有 轻松随意的格调，是个社交活动 中心，在这里跟同路人交流、玩 扑克牌、聊天或享用鸡尾酒，或 是有时候三件事情一起做也行。 阿德莱德王后餐车提供优 质、文明的服务，每张桌子必需 坐满四个人，使您避免不了要跟 陌生人交流。如果在早茶或玩扑 克牌的时段未能结识到新朋友， 那晚餐时间为您提供另外一个机 会。共有三道菜的午餐及晚餐不 仅丰富还拥有专业的水准，早上

有热食还有欧式早餐可选。 主菜包括烤牛肉、炙烤袋鼠 肉或清蒸澳洲肺鱼，配菜是新鲜 沙拉，还有一道自选前菜。甜品 能让您跟朋友的谈话在茶或咖啡 来之前稍微延长一点，所以是跟 难跳过的。晚餐设有特定时段， 确保每位黄金和白金车厢的乘客 都有充分的时间享用晚餐。 酒店就跟菜单一样反映出这 趟旅程所经过的各个地区的魅 力。不妨在到达最终目的地前 品尝一下来自阿德莱德最优 质的佳酿。 “白金服务”的包厢较“黄 金服务”的包厢宽趟，设有宽大 的私人卫浴及双人床。双人床不 适用的话也能换成两张单人床， 放心这不是双层床，能避免为 了谁要爬到上层床而争执的问 题。近年，车厢内部重新装修、 改装，使服务提升到更现代的水

For more than a decade, she has been serving The Ghan with a radio in her back pocket and a smile on her face, hopping between conversations with the engine driver and assisting travellers to make the most of their interstate journey. To Pampling-Jones, service is seen to be just as important and the cabin itself.

“If the train has been delayed,” she explains, “then it’s my job to work out with the engineers how the schedule will be changed, update the whistle-stop schedules and make sure everybody on board is up to date with the progress. I spend a lot of time running between my office and the lounge car.”

Travellers in Gold or Platinum service have access to the Queen Adelaide Restaurant and the lounge, both during meal services and at other times when a little extra space is desired. The decor of leather lounges with casual tables is designed for social engagement, ideal for cards, conversation or cocktails – sometimes all three together!

Meal services in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant are a civilised affair and necessarily social, with each table seating four people. If you didn’t make new friends over morning tea or a game of cards, then the dinner service provides another opportunity. Generous meals are prepared to a very professional standard – three courses at lunch and dinner, plus a cooked breakfast and continental options as well. Main dishes such as roast beef, grilled kangaroo and steamed barramundi are complimented with fresh salads and a choice of entrees. It’s hard to ignore the offer of dessert, as it allows the conversation to continue just a little bit longer before servings of tea and coffee.

Evening service is run to a specific schedule to ensure everybody in the Gold and Platinum cars has an adequate amount of time to enjoy their meal.

The wine list – like the menu selection – reflects the charms of the regions through which this journey passes. After all, there’s absolutely no harm in getting a taste of Adelaide’s finest drops in preparation for the final destination!

Inside the Platinum Service cabin, there is more space on offer than Gold Service, with a full-size shower in the ensuite and a double bed for extra sleeping comfort. And the twin bed options are both lower-level, so there won’t be any bickering over who has to climb to the top. In recent years, the interiors have been refitted to bring the service up to a more modern standard, but without compromising the classic charm of rail travel in Australia.

You still get the louvred blinds inside the double-glazed windows, stainless-steel handrails to assist when moving about the cabin, and a blend of timber and velour textures that add a solid feel to the space while dampening both external and internal noise.

During the day, with beds folded out of sight, you have

Steeped in Australian history the GHAN HAS BEEN TRAVERSING AUSSIE SOIL FOR MORE THAN 80 YEARS. oRIGINALLY KNOWN AS THE AFGHAN EXPRESS, ITS NEW NAME WAS INSPIRED BY AFGHAN CAMELEERS WHO OPENED UP CENTRAL AUSTRALIA

the ghan

“ the decor of leather lounges with casual tables are ideal for cards , conversation and cocktails �

101

Time travelling 长达三天的旅程几乎覆盖了3,000公里的路 程，途中包括凯瑟琳站和爱丽斯泉站。您可以 在其中一个小镇停留多一些时间，来充分探索澳 大利亚的内陆地区。 The journey takes three days and covers almost 3,000km, including stops at Katherine and Alice Springs. You can extend your stay in either town to spend more time exploring the outback.

the ghan

“设有皮革座椅和桌子的 酒廊拥有轻松随意的格 调，是玩扑克牌、聊天或 享用鸡尾酒的好去处”

103

Hump day take part in off train excursions like camel riding

the ghan

“ sightseeing options include a break for afternoon tea and lashings of scones with cream ”

104

准，同时不失澳大利亚火车旅行 原有的特色与魅力。 重新改装后，双层玻璃窗内 仍然装有百叶窗帘；车厢周围安 有不锈钢扶手，协助乘客在车上 走动；车厢内还混合使用木材和 丝绒材质来增加空间感及帮助阻 隔从外面和内部传来的噪音。床 在白天时被折起来，让您有明亮 且宽裕的活动空间。晚上摇身变 成一个安静且私密安全的包厢， 让您整个晚上高枕无忧。 每一位登上“甘”号列车的 乘客也能从窗口看到车外千变万 化的风景，却只有搭乘“白金服 务”的贵宾能在双人床上一边享 用下午茶，一边欣赏美景。一点 一滴都能为漫长的火车之旅带来 不一样的体验。“白金服务”的 包厢内更设有巨型全景窗，让您 观赏从达尔文到阿德莱德沿路上 最美的沙漠美景和景观。 在火车上的活动显然有限， 这也是为什么服务人员在每个站 点下那么多功夫。抵达凯瑟琳之

前，有一系列的观光选项供您挑 选，包括登上游览尼特米鲁克峡 谷（ Nitmiluk Gorge ）的游轮或 直升机，两个选项均附送下午茶 和大量的奶油烤饼。 爱丽丝泉有多一些的选择， 包括沙漠公园（Desert Park）、 电报站（Telegraph Station）、 骑骆驼或再次搭乘直升机飞越辛 普森峡谷（Simpsons Gap）。也 可以选择一些毫不费劲的活动包 括游览爱丽丝艺术馆或老甘号列 车博物馆，探索一下这趟铁路旅 行在近几十年来的进步与改变。 “甘”号列车的名字，是以 阿富汗骆驼队而命名的，他们让 游历澳大利亚内陆地区变为可能 的事。 2004年以前火车线只通行 爱丽丝泉及阿德莱德，在1929年 以前，如果您想要到像爱丽丝那 么北部的地方，必须骑骆驼来完 成旅程。老甘号列车博物馆展示 从蒸汽到窄轨柴油年代的机车， 可是没有一款是比得上今天“白 金服务”所提供的舒适感。 ◆

It’s your choice you can fill your days as much or as little as you like – play cards AND SHARE LAUGHS on the train or EVEN take a helicopter ride over nitmiluk gorgE

a generous entertainment space that is very calm and bright. In the evenings, the cabins are prepared for peace and privacy to encourage a full night’s rest.

Every passenger on The Ghan gets a framed view of the constantly changing scenery, but only those travelling in Platinum Service enjoy it from a double bed or over afternoon tea served in the cabin – little things can make a real difference on a long rail journey! That view of deserts and landscapes between Darwin and Adelaide is presented in an oversized panoramic window, so you’re also getting the best view in the house.

Activities on board the train are naturally limited, which is why the service staff make such an effort on the whistle-stops. Before arriving at Katherine, a choice of sightseeing options can be selected – from cruising Nitmiluk Gorge to flying over it in a helicopter.

Both options include a break for afternoon tea and lashings of scones with cream.

The whistle-stop at Alice Springs has a few more choices, including Desert Park, Telegraph Station, camel rides, or a helicopter flight over Simpsons Gap. The lazy option is to wander the art galleries of Alice Springs or visit the Old Ghan Rail Museum for a look at how far this rail journey has improved in recent decades.

The Ghan itself is named after the Afghan camel riders who first made it possible to explore the nation’s interior. Before 2004, the line only ran between Alice Springs and Adelaide, and before 1929 you had to complete the journey by camel if you wanted to travel as far north as Alice Springs. The Old Ghan Rail Museum features old steam locomotives, and you have to wonder what those passengers from yesteryear would think of the luxury afforded today’s passengers in Platinum Service. u

All aboard 除了在爱丽斯泉停留的时间以外，早、午、晚三餐和早茶都已经包括在票 价里。自选小站游览团提供不同的选择，有最基本的$15巴士接送服务，也 有价值$240的直升机飞行。达尔文至阿德莱德的火车票价$889起。 Breakfast, lunch, dinner and morning tea are included, except for on the stopover in Alice Springs. Optional whistle-stop tours range from $15 for a bus transfer into town to $240 for a helicopter flight. For the DarwinAdelaide train trip prices start from $889.

greatsouthernrail.com.au

canal town 106

l i ving his t o ry

Photography Trent van der Jagt

S

Easy streets The waterways of wuzhen may be the town’s biggest attraction, but the buildings and locals make it the perfect day trip

canal town

Two hours west of Shanghai, you’ll find Wuzhen, a town bursting with history

ometimes the key to understanding the soul of a place is visiting at just the right time. Wuzhen – about a two-hour drive west of Shanghai – in the Zhejiang province is one such town.

Head there in peak season and you’ll find yourself among thousands of visitors filing along its hidden alleyways and narrow streets and joining the queue for a boat ride down the famous waterways that criss-cross its centre. In short, it’s a bit hectic. But if you plan your visit carefully and avoid the many Chinese holidays, or simply time it right to arrive early, you’ll get a glimpse of something special. When the hordes are elsewhere, you’ll find peaceful canals rippled only occasionally by a passing skiff easing its way along to give passengers a close-up view of the original Qing dynasty houses that line its waters.

These properties – many topped with little roof gardens – still house some of the 10,000 or so permanent residents, but on a quiet day, as you’re strolling these historic flagstones, you’d be forgiven for thinking they are all deserted. It’s so tranquil, it’s easy to see why it’s known as China’s answer to Venice.

In fact, Wuzhen boasts a serenity rarely found in today’s modern metropolis. Nip down the alleyways that shoot off its main streets (although, given their size, ‘main’ is hardly the right word) and you may stumble across an ancient courtyard or two, but more than likely you’ll just get lost in the tangle of lanes – half the fun of exploring!

History is literally around every corner – and there’s plenty of it. Wuzhen dates back to

107

Game time

canal town

Men play Chinese Chess in the quiet lanes (left), and Rice-Wine barrels line the houses (below)

108

872AD, giving you 1,300 or so years to play with, but relics suggest people may have lived here for 6,000 years more.

What those first inhabitants slept on, one can only guess, but it wasn’t some of the exhibits in Wuzhen’s Hundred Bed Museum, found on Dongzha Street. The first exhibition of its kind in China, you’ll find exhibits from the Qing, Tang and even Ming dynasties, including the self-explanatory ‘one thousand workers bed’. The latter not only kept an awful lot of people busy while making it, but also took a not-to-be-sniffed-at three years to complete. Seeing what kind of bed results from that amount of effort is worth a visit alone.

Should a bed such as this not be enough to help you nod off? Back in the 14th and 15th centuries, the popular drop was sanbai, a brutally strong (55%) rice wine that could probably put large mammals to sleep, let alone humans. During the Ming dynasty, Wuzhen’s sanbai industry was booming, with 20 shops across town making the potent liquor. Now just one – the Gaogongsheng Distillery – remains. It still uses traditional methods to make the original, plus sticky and sweet variants. Ironically, the distillery first started life in 1300s as a purveyor of pickled goods, which is exactly the state in which modern-day visitors tend to leave it in.

Completing the quartet of Wuzhen’s essential heritage stops (others also include

topics such as footbinding and wood carving), you have the Folk Customs Museum, which gives a good overall look at the traditions and, obviously, customs of the people in this part of the world – covering everything from work and weddings to childbirth and fashion. Fashion, of course, is something Wuzhen still plays a role in.

Wendy Wu Tours will give you the locals’ guide to Wuzhen.

Spend the day exploring by foot, followed by a local lunch. Prices start from $195 twin share and $365 for solo travellers. For more information, visit wendywutours.com.au

canal town

Go with the flow

109

Material world world famous indigo fabric is synonymous with wuzhen and was founded in the 13th century

112 canal town

Happy hour

canal town

Wuzhen is known for its fabric designs (below), and the locally made Rice wine is stored in large ceramic pots (below right)

113

“ T he first exhibition of its kind in C hina , you ’ ll fin D Q ing , T ang and even M ing dynasty exhibits ” Not so much a museum as a living and working artefact, the Indigo Fabric Workshop first opened its doors back in the 13th century. Although its methods and location have since changed, the quality of the beautiful blue fabrics produced here has not. The giant sails of cloth that hang in the courtyard are a work of art in their own right – and that’s even before they’ve been turned into the outfits that have adorned China’s great and good.

But this is China, of course, so when you’ve had your fill of times gone by, the only time you’ll be interested in is the one that’s followed by ‘to eat’. Wuzhen has plenty of food options – from hawkers selling sweet pastries to restaurants dishing up local favourites.

Plates such as braised mutton in brown sauce, for instance, are hearty enough to keep you fuelled for another museum visit or two. u

m o r e i n f o r m at i o n For itineraries across China, including Wuzhen, visit wendywutours.com.au

玛吉小镇

The grape

beyond

往悉尼的西部进发，您将会发现一个名为玛吉 的小镇，一处品尝香醇佳酿与美食的人间天堂

Head west out of Sydney and you’ll find a wine and food lovers’ paradise called Mudgee – just be sure to get there before everyone else does, suggests Constantina Pilatos

115

mudgee

mudgee 116

M

Vine times The grapes of mudgee can produce a variety of delicious wines

udgee has all the country charm expected from a rural New South Wales wine town – locals offering a friendly g’day on the street, sandstone buildings dating back to the 1800s, a backdrop ofrolling hills and seemingly endless expanses of lush green vineyards.

With its paltry population of just 9,380, it’s easy to presume it to be a quiet little town, but you’d be wrong. Thanks to some young pioneers, Mudgee is the latest hotspot for those who cherish fine wine and relish a good bite to eat. Some even dare to suggest it's trendy.

Almost a four-hour drive north-west of Sydney, Mudgee has been quietly going about its business and producing wine for some 160 years, give or take. Although there are more well-known options closer to the city – the Hunter Valley or Orange for instance – Mudgee has a major point of difference: its geography.

Its highs reach 1,100 metres above sea level, while its flats sit at about 580 to 600 metres, meaning its vines can produce everything from aromatic sparklers to full-bodied reds.

玛

吉（Mudgee） 是位于新南威 尔士州乡村的 葡萄酒小镇，拥有着一切 乡村该有的魅力，包括当 地人在街上跟您友善地问 好、追溯至1900年代的砂 岩建筑、连绵起伏的山丘 以及看似一望无际绿意盎 然的葡萄园。倘若您误以 为这是一个沉睡的小镇也 不为过，但那就大错特错 了。一些年轻的开拓者把 玛吉变成了享受高品质葡 萄酒及品尝佳肴的最新热 点。 从悉尼往西边开车只 需要3个小时的车程， 玛吉这个地方已经默默 地生产了160年的葡萄 酒。虽然能找到距离悉尼 更近的酒庄，如猎人谷 （Hunter Valley）或奥 兰芝（Orange），玛吉 却有非常独特之处——地

形。它的高点达到海拔 1,100米，平地约在海拔 580—600米，意味着在玛 吉的葡萄园能生产从味道 芳香的起泡酒到口感醇厚 、酒体丰富的葡萄酒。 此外，有别于周边的 乡镇，玛吉拒绝了大企业 向他们购买葡萄园的丰厚 利润，坚持本土原汁原味 的生产。您将会发现这里 许多的酒庄都已经传给下 一代的种植者，推动着小 镇成为澳大利亚葡萄酒业 备受注意的地方，并扮演 主要的角色。 进入玛吉之后只需再 开几百米的路程便来到洛 根酒庄（Logan Wines） ，是城中50个葡萄园 的第一个。门市部经理 Jessica Capuzza说： “我们从1997年开始酿 酒，到2006年门市部才开 业。当年是Peter Logan

mudgee

Perry Street Hotel Built within the historic walls of the former 1862 Mechanics' Institute, Perry Street Hotel is Mudgee's only boutique luxury self-contained hotel. A short stroll from the town centre, it's the perfect base location. From $158 per night.

perrystreethotel.com.au

佩里街酒店 佩里街酒店是玛吉唯一一家豪华的自助公寓式精品 酒店，建于1862年的前力学研究所的历史建筑 内。酒店拥有优越的地理位置，距离镇中 心仅几步之遥。

Horse around mudgee has an abundance of roadside wildlife to get up close and personal with

“我们根据客人的意愿 来生产紧贴潮流、现代 感极强的酒”

117

“ we produce on - trend styles that follow what our customers want ”

“玛吉变成了享受高品 质葡萄酒及品尝佳肴的 最新热点”

Also, unlike surrounding towns, Mudgee has stayed local by resisting fat payouts from big corporations offering to buy vineyards.

You’ll find most estates have been passed down generation to generation; and the latest branch on the family tree is driving the town to become a major player in Australian wine.

No sooner have you driven into Mudgee and you’ll come across Logan Wines, the first of the town’s 50 vineyards. “We’ve been making wine since 1997, but we’ve had the cellar door since 2006,” says Jessica Golino, cellar door manager at Logan Wines. “Originally Peter Logan started this business with his father, and now Peter and his wife have it.”

Calling on the help of Stephen Buzacott, a Surry Hills architect, Peter transformed the former shed-like cellar door that his father had built into a building that echoes modernism. Soaring glass walls and an expansive deck overlooking the vineyard’s placid lake and the Great Dividing Range invites guests to settle in and enjoy the view while sipping wine or a glass or two of bubbly.

And the modern approach doesn’t stop at the cellar door. “We produce on-trend styles that follow what our customers want,” says Jessica. Our vintage sparkling is our signature.” It’s the beauty of visiting wineries in Mudgee – thanks to the varying land, every vineyard has its own signature drop that’s different to everyone else.

Across town, Rob Black, chief winemaker at Bunnamagoo Estate, has spent the past 12 years perfecting the vineyard’s signature wine.

“Chardonnay has always been our bestseller,” says Rob. Having spent his life on farms and a good 20 years winemaking, he knows a decent wine when he tastes one. “This style has always worked for Bunnamagoo. We’ve always stuck to our guns and maintained a barrel-fermented style that we’ve modernised a little and refined along the way.”

mudgee

Drop stop

跟他的爸爸开始这门生 意，现在是Peter跟他的 妻子在经营。” 得 到 一 位 萨 利 山 （Surry Hills）的建筑师 Stephen Basecroft的协 助，Peter把原来他爸爸 建成像棚一样的酒庄门市 部改装成一座融合现代感 元素的建筑。大面积的玻 璃窗及宽敞的甲板俯瞰葡 萄园平静的湖泊和大分水 岭，可以邀请朋友来这里 一边观赏美景，一边品尝 着葡萄酒或香槟。 现 代 的 元 素 不 只 是体现在酒庄的门市 部。Jessica说：“我们 会根据客人的意愿来生产 紧贴潮流、现代感极强的 酒。气泡年份酒是我们的 招牌酒。”在玛吉参观酒 庄是一件美好的事情，这 要归功于在这里各种不一 样的土地，才可以令每座 葡萄园所栽种出来的葡萄

都是独一无二。 离开洛根来到布那麻 古（Bunnamagoo）， 这里的首席酿酒师Rob Black用了12年的时间来 不断完善酒庄的年份招 牌酒。Rob说：“霞多丽 （Chardonnay）一直 以来都是我们的最佳畅销 酒。”一直在农场生活的 Rob，拥有20年的酿酒经 验，他能轻松地品尝出那 些是好酒。他说：“这款 酒一直是布那麻古最给力 的酒款。我们坚持采用酒 桶进行发酵，我们不断改 良技术，使其变得稍微更 现代化及精炼。” 布那麻古第一次出产 霞多丽时，大概分配了 300打。今天，这个数 字已经是翻倍了，证明 玛吉的酒有很大的需求 量。Rob说：“这款酒真 的是在推动着品牌前进。 我很开心因为对玛吉而言

119

Lest we forget mudgee memorial clock tower commemorates the 50th anniversary of world war two

完美配搭 Perfect pair 如果您正在找合适的芝士来搭配您的酒，那必定要到High Valley。High Valley生产 芝士已有十多年的时间，位于远离镇中心的一座山上，一栋乡村风格的砂岩建筑内。 他们家最受欢迎的芝士是腌制飞达芝士系列，如果您能接受味道更强烈的芝士，那带 有车打风格的新款蓝芝士是您的最佳之选。 If you’re after a grazing plate, look no further than High Valley. Found up on a hill away from the town centre, set in a provincial-style sandstone building, High Valley has been producing cheese for more than a decade. Its marinated fetta range (left) is most popular, but those who can handle a more bold cheese should try the newly developed cheddar-style blue cheese. highvalley.com.au

Growing popularity

mudgee

Grape minds... the region attracts more than 496,000 visitors every year

Proving Mudgee’s wines are in high demand, when Bunnamagoo first started producing chardonnay, it distributed about 300 dozen.

Today, that number has doubled. “It really drives this brand,” says Rob. “I’m quite happy about that because it’s a good tribute to Mudgee as it was the first town in Australia to grow chardonnay. It’s the cradle to chardonnay.”

And its not just Mudgee’s wine scene that is growing in popularity. “The farmers’ markets

120

酿制烈酒 In good spirits Baker Williams Distillery酿酒厂证明了葡萄并不仅用在酿制葡萄酒，他们使用来自玛吉各区的各 种葡萄，出产一款口感顺滑、像伏特加一样纯净的烈酒。这家酒厂在当地以出产别具一格的产品 而著名，小批量地制作烈酒和别的酒类。喜欢味道略甜的可以试一下奶油甜酒（Butterscotch Schnapps），最适合餐后享用。 Proving that grapes aren’t just used for winemaking, you can only find Eaux De Vin – a smooth, clean vodka-like spirit made from grape varietals across Mudgee – at Baker Williams Distillery. Making small-batch spirits and liquors, the distillery has earned its exceptional reputation with the locals with its oneof-a-kind products. Those with a sweet tooth should opt for the Butterscotch Schnapps, a perfect after-dinner treat. bakerwilliams.com.au

“一处拥有良好文化、 美食、佳酿的地方” are gaining more and more buyers,” he says.

“There’s a huge amount of diverse, fresh produce available for young chefs to come do something different. Andy from Pipeclay Pumphouse is introducing a whole new food experience to Mudgee.”

Head up a deserted road, north of the town centre, then follow a gravel path lined with rows of vines and sculptures made of recycled steel – that's where you’ll find Pipeclay Pumphouse. After years of serving some of Sydney’s best restaurants, such as Otto, and a few stints in Europe, Andy Crestani decided to open his own restaurant. Set on a Mudgee vineyard, this is your classic country restaurant with a menu you would find in a city’s most elite establishments.

Proving that family ties and community are strong here, Andy has his wife to thank for the rural location. “We wanted to be close to my wife’s family, who live here,” says Andy.

“But even more so it’s the sense of community you get from the locals. We have neighbours growing the produce for us that we can’t grow on our own farm. You just wouldn’t find that kind of hospitality anywhere else.”

It’s the seasonal Mudgee-sourced ingredients that are the stars of Pipeclay Pumphouse’s menu. The amuse-bouche features full-offlavour small pickles and onion grown in a vegetable patch out back, prosciutto cut from old-world pig raised on the farm, and sopressa salami made on site.

“The community as a whole is growing, and good-quality produce is becoming more readily available,” says Andy. “We have pork suppliers, lamb suppliers and vegetable suppliers that just couldn’t be found within an hour’s drive of here 10 years ago.”

Before, Mudgee was known purely as a wine town. Now it comes part and parcel as a wine and food spot. “It’s a movement that has started and is snowballing,” reckons Andy.

City chic in the country A comparatively new addition to Mudgee is the coffee house Alby & Esthers, a resident since late 2013. It has already made a massive impact on Mudgee, adding a little cosmopolitan to the country town. “We just wanted to do something different and create a space in town that we

mudgee 121

这是个很大的贡献，玛吉 是澳大利亚第一个种植霞 多丽葡萄的城镇。” Rob表示，不仅是玛 吉的佳酿越来越受欢迎， 还有“农民所出产的农作 物也越来越多买家，农 产品非常多样性，让年轻 的厨师们能利用新鲜的材 料来烹调一些与众不同的 佳肴，就好像Pipeclay Pumphouse餐厅的厨师 Andy正为玛吉带来全新 的美食体验。” 经过在悉尼以及欧洲 一些最好的餐厅历练的 几年时间，厨师Andy Cretani决定创立自己的 餐厅。餐厅位于玛吉的一 个葡萄园，这是一家典型 的乡间餐厅，可是其菜单 可以与城中一些优秀的餐 厅相媲美。 Pipeclay Pumphouse 餐厅位处城中心的北部、

一条废弃的公路旁、走过 石子路、旁边还有一排排 的葡萄藤与采用循环再用 的钢铁材料而成的雕塑， Andy要感谢太太有这样 的一个乡村位置，是因 为太太餐厅才会安置在这 里，证明这里家庭关系和 社区都很强。 Andy说：“我们想靠 近我太太住在这里的家 人，但更重要的是因为这 里本地人的社区意识很 强。我们有邻居为我们栽 种一些我们田地不能种出 来的农产品。这种友好关 系与热情好客是不会在别 的地方找到的。” Pipeclay Pumphouse 餐厅菜色的特点是采用玛 吉季节性的材料。开胃菜 的小咸菜和洋葱是在餐厅 后方的菜地所栽种的，味 道浓郁；火腿出产自当地 农场所饲养的猪；萨拉米

香肠是在餐厅内制作的。 Andy说：“整个社区 正在发展，优质的农产品 越来越多，一应俱全。我 们有猪肉、羊肉及蔬菜的 供应商，这些是在10年前 一小时车程以内都不会找 到的东西。” 以前，玛吉被誉为是 一个葡萄酒产区。现今 变成了混合葡萄酒与佳 肴的地区。Andy说： “地区的转型已经开始并

且还在不断扩展。只需要 看看Alby&Esthers咖啡馆 的Lara正在做的一切便 可知晓了，那里已经成为 我一家在城中最喜欢的地 方。” Alby & Esther是一家比 较年轻的咖啡馆，2013年 年底才开业，但已经对玛 吉造成很大的影响，为这 个乡村城镇增添了一点国 际都市的元素。老板Lara Brett与丈夫（他是一名

Food for thought a new generation has given mudgee new life as a food and wine town

mudgee

“ M udgee is the latest hotspot for those who cherish fine wine and relish a good bite to eat �

122

Up, up and away take in the whole town from a hot air balloon

mudgee 123

当地的酿酒师）一起经营 的Alby&Esther，白天是 咖啡馆，晚上酒吧。Lara 说：“我们只是想做一些 不一样的事， 在这个城镇 里创造一个我们自己也想 去的空间。” 这家咖啡馆位于镇 中心的市场街（Market Street）行人道的旁边， 隐藏在一条被葡萄藤覆盖 又狭窄的通道后方，因此 走在路上时很容易会错过 了它。树荫下放着用铸铁 制成的桌子，而以一座用 砂岩盖成的房子改造而成 的咖啡馆内，放着一张张 木制而成的桌子。 这里真正体现了玛吉 从牧场到餐桌的精神。味 道强烈的咖啡豆是由Alby &Esthers咖啡馆的全职咖 啡师Mark亲自种植与烘焙 的。Lara与她的厨师们则 创造所有的甜食、蛋糕与 根据季节而更换只有8道

菜式的菜单，其中的两道 菜会根据每天从玛吉当地 采购而来的产物而更换。 Lara谈及这一切是如 何开始的时候表示，这是 一个很常见的故事。她 说：“我在这里出生，离 开多年之后，决定回来这 里。很多年轻的专业人士 会选择放弃快节奏的城市 生活，回到他们小时候长 大的乡村做一些小生意或 继承家族生意。这是推动 玛吉发展的主要原因。” Lara说：“生长在这 里的人最后都是会回来， 因为他们想要一个平衡的 生活，一处拥有良好文 化、美食、佳酿的地方。 人们搬回来小镇是一件 很好的事，使这里生机 勃勃，也意味着生命的延 续。”当结识当地人和 品尝当地出产的产物后， 我们并不责怪他们离开城 市，回到乡村。 ◆

mudgee 124

In the family ALBY & ESTHERS (ABOVE), RUN BY LARA BRETT AND HER HUSBAND (BELOW), IS MUDGEE’S NEWEST HOTSPOT

wanted to come to,” says owner Lara Brett, who runs the café-by-day/wine-bar-by-night, along with her local winemaking husband.

Easily missed when walking by, the homely café is tucked behind a narrow, vine-covered tunnel, off the sidewalk of Market Street in the town centre. Cast-iron tables are set under a canopy of leaves, while wooden tables fill the sandstone building that used to be a house.

Truly encapsulating the Mudgee ethos of pasture to plate, the strong blend of coffee bean is grown and roasted by Alby & Esthers’ local barista, Mark. Lara and her small team of chefs create all the sweets, cakes and a short seasonal menu of only eight items – with two of

those items changing daily – on site with Mudgee-sourced produce.

“It’s a pretty common story,” says Lara about how it all began. “I was born in this area and moved away for quite a number of years, then decided to move back.”

Young professionals leaving the fast-paced city life and choosing to open small businesses or take over the family establishments back in their childhood country town has been a major factor helping drive Mudgee.

“People who live here do so because they want to,” says Lara. “Everybody has come back because they want to live a balanced life, where there is a good sense of culture, wine and food.

It’s a good signpost of the town that people are moving back; it shows survival and longevity.”

The thriving gastronomic scene in Mudgee has started to have an impact on other areas of the town. Boutique shops, craft brewers and wholefood producers are beginning to make their mark. The town is culturally stirring in a way that hasn’t been seen in previous generations. The likes of Peter, Rob, Andy and Lara are putting Mudgee on the map, making it the hip new kid on the food lovers’ block.

Just get there quick, before the masses do. ◆

“这里真正体现了玛吉从 牧场到餐桌的精神” 3 f o r. . .

Drink

Eat

Logan Wines

Alby & Esthers

洛根酒庄 Castlereagh Highway, Apple Tree Flat loganwines.com.au

Alby & Esthers 咖啡馆 Up the alleyway, 61 Market Street albyandesthers.com.au

Bunnamagoo Estate 布那麻古庄园

Pipeclay Pumphouse

603 Henry Lawson Drive bunnamagoowines.com.au

Baker Williams Distillery Baker Williams酿酒厂 194 Henry Lawson Drive bakerwilliams.com.au

Pipeclay Pumphouse餐厅 Robert Stein Vineyard & Winery, Pipeclay Lane pipeclaypumphouse.com.au

High Valley High Valley餐厅 137 Ulan Road highvalley.com.au

news 127

Tiffany & Co.

蒂芙尼 在10,000颗钻石当中只会出现一颗彩钻，其中只有很少数能符合蒂芙尼的标准。为作品寻找一颗完美的钻石并不容易，可能要花 上几年时间，就像这颗独一无二、8.69克拉重的梨形玫瑰色尖晶石，使蒂芙尼的彩石系列成为世界上最稀有的彩石系列。 Only one in 10,000 diamonds discovered are fancy coloured, and very few meet Tiffany & Co.’s standards. It can take years to find the perfect diamond – such as this unique 8.69ct pear-shaped rose-tinted spinel – to fit a piece, making Tiffany’s Fancy Diamond collection among the rarest in the world. $152,500, tiffany.com.au

news

Most wanted

everything luxury — from one-off designer pieces to fancy apartments

128

Beauty and the beat 香奈儿与著名耳机品牌Monster合作推出独特新品——高端时尚耳机。 耳机嵌有香奈儿的经典标志以及其极具代表性的菱形格纹皮革。 Chanel has collaborated with Monster to create a unique pair of high-fashion headphones. Yet to be released, the tech piece will don the couture brand’s classic monogram and signature quilted leather. $POA, chanel.com

Master stroke 为庆祝Meisterstück书写工具90周年，万宝龙推出 全新周年纪念书写工具系列，包括笔尖镀玫瑰金的墨 水笔、皮具、腕表以及珠宝。 Marking 90 years of the Meisterstück pen, Montblanc has released a collection of limitededition pieces. Included are fountain pens featuring gold nibs and hand engravings, calfskin goods, heritage timepieces, and jewellery crafted with leather and onyx. Pen from $460, Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar $25,400, montblanc.com

Jewel in the Crown

Cocktail hour

拥有令人惊叹的美景与清澈的海滩，难怪悉尼会位居世界最佳居住城市的榜首位置。共 有110间公寓的Viking by Crown位处悉尼市中心，配套完善并拥有天台游泳池。 With a stunning harbour and crystalline beaches, it’s no wonder Sydney has found itself in the top position of the world’s most liveable cities. At the heart of this vista is Viking by Crown, a 110-unit resort-style development with its own rooftop pool.

From $1.395 million, crowngroup.com.au

Gregory珠宝商推出全新Neon Runway系列的鸡尾 酒戒指，嵌有超过10克拉的紫水晶、托帕石及钻石。 The new Neon Runway collection at Gregory Jewellers showcases cocktail rings decorated with more than 10ct of amethyst, topaz and diamonds. $6750 each, gregoryjewellers.com.au

time out

news

Penfolds’ chief winemaker Peter Gago on his passion for winemaking and quality picks for this season

Photo finish 徕卡推出全新T系列数码相机，由德国汽车制造商奥迪设计团队设计，机身由一块重1.5公斤的 铝砖铸造而成，经人手打磨45分钟后，再与1,600万像素APS-C尺寸的感光元件结合。 Leica’s newly released T, designed by German car manufacurers Audi, is milled out of a solid 1.5kg aluminium brick and hand-polished for 45 minutes, before being fitted with a 16-megapixel APS-C-sized sensor. $1850, leica.com

First taste…

I developed an interest in wine while studying at Melbourne university, and it later grew into something of an obsession. The grip of the grape is a powerful force. 我就读于墨尔本大学时开始对酒产生兴趣，后来发展到痴迷 的程度。葡萄的影响力是一种强大的力量！

Best food- and wine-matching advice…

The old adage ‘Things that grow together go together’ seems to work well with pairing. A bottle of young riesling with a plate of freshly shucked Coffin Bay oysters is hard to beat. “一起成长的始终会走在一起”这句老话挺适合用在美 酒佳肴配对上。一瓶年轻的雷司令搭配去壳的新鲜科芬湾 （Coffin Bay）牡蛎，绝对是个无懈可击的配搭。

Drops of the season…

The quality of shiraz fruit out of south-east vineyards in both Padthaway and Wrattonbully has really impressed during vintage 2014.

2014年，位于东南面的葡萄园包括帕史维（Padthaway）和拉 顿布（Wrattonbully）产酒区所生产的西拉让人赞叹不已。

Handmade hermès 爱马仕工艺展将于当代艺术博物馆举行，为您提供一个深入了解这个法国奢侈品牌制作过程的 机会，现场体验丝巾印刷以及其它7个不同的工艺。 Get a rare insight into the workshop of luxury French fashion house Hermès.

Festival des Métiers will be held at the Museum of Contemporary Art, where you can experience the famous silk scarf being printed, along with seven other crafts.

October 2 to 6, mca.com.au

Wine and its purpose…

Winemakers capture the elements of a season in glass for future enjoyment. The sun, the rain, the fruit, the earth and winemaker input are all encapsulated in a 750ml time-capsule – to be savoured and enjoyed at another point in time. 酿酒师要捕捉一个特定季节的元素，装在玻璃瓶内，以供将来 享受。阳光、雨水、果实、土地，甚至是酿酒师不断的投入都封 存在一个750毫升的时间胶囊内，留待另一个时间来品尝享用。

Often overlooked…

Spring scent 菲拉格慕推出Signorina Eleganza系列 新款女士香水，拥有柚子和梨清新的前调， 活泼的香味是春天完美的配搭。 With fresh top notes of grapefruit and pear, Salvatore Ferragamo’s new fragrance Signorina Eleganza is a vivacious scent that’s perfect for

Growers who wake at 3am to guard their precious vines from frost, and toil in mid-winter rain to prune their precious vines. Without their loyalty and work ethic, we wouldn’t be able to make wines that are memorable and of good quality. 凌晨3点起来保护他们珍贵的葡萄藤免受冻伤，在寒冬下雨的 季节仍然辛劳地修剪他们珍贵的葡萄藤的种植者是值得尊敬 的。没有他们的忠心及对工作的热情，我们是不可能酿出如此 醉人心弦的美酒。

129

Ring, Arme de L'amour, $164, armedelamour.com

shopping

Bangles, Ashley Pittman, $521, net-a-porter.com

Earrings, J.Crew, $126,

Top, Tamara Mellon, $484,

Sandals, Newbark,

Dress, Roberto Cavalli, $4394, robertocavalli.com

130

Bag, Marc by Marc Jacobs, $267, marcjacobs.com

Bag, Proenza Schouler, $600, proenzaschouler.com

Swimsuit, Zimmermann, $416, zimmermannwear.com

Jungle fever Channel your wild side with these holiday essentials

Cuff, Paula Mendoza, $789, paulamendoza.com

Sandals, Ancient Greek, $209, net-a-porter.com

Bag, Elizabeth and James, $722, net-a-porter.com

Necklace, Kenzo, $188,

shopping

Watch, Uniform Studios, $299,

Suit yourself

Bracelet, Miansai, $150, miansai.com

Key pieces to complete the casual suit look

Shoes, Alexander McQueen, $672, alexandermcqueen.com

Shirt, Richard James, $247,

132

Cufflinks, Paul Smith, $259, mrporter.com

Glasses, Thom Browne, $642,

Blazer, Canali,

Sunglasses, Illesteva, $448, illesteva.com

Blazer, Gant Rugger, $627, gant.com

Belt, Anderson's, $105, mrporter.com

Holdall, Mulberry, $2434,

Belt, Anderson's, $142,

Shoes, Gucci, $680, Blazer, Boglioli, $1234,

Stella Maris College 是一所坐落在北悉尼海岸线上的历史悠久的私立女子中学。 从青涩羞怯到自信坚强，从懵懂稚嫩到睿智成熟， 学会尊重，理解，感恩和责任，

这里是您的女儿梦起飞的地方。 52 Eurobin Avenue Manly | +612 9976 1876 www.stellamaris.nsw.edu.au 详情可至邮件到 jiani_chen@stellamaris.nsw.edu.au

inclusive innovative inspiring

fa s h i o n

Strong looks Giorgio Armani’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection showcases elegant pieces for powerful women

134

强韧 时尚

乔治阿玛尼 （Giorgio Armani） 2015 春夏系列为知 性干练的女性缔造 典雅的服饰单品

136 fa s h i o n

137

fa s h i o n

138 fa s h i o n

All looks available from Giorgio Armani 所有服饰单品在乔治阿玛尼有售 armani.com/au/giorgioarmani

140 w atc h e s

w atc h e s

欧米茄传奇 从登陆月球到James Bond邦德的电影，再到美国 陆军和奥运会的指定计时钟表商，欧米茄腕表的历 史是一个充满趣味性的故事

Out of this world From the moon to James Bond, the American Army and a timekeeping Olympian, the history of Omega is quite the tale…

Words Andrew McUtchen

141

欧

米茄腕表的故 事读起来就好 像是詹姆斯· 邦德（James Bond）的 电影情节而不是沉闷的 企业史，这也许并不是巧 合。赶紧把安全带系好， 迅速地来一趟欧米茄惊人 的历史之旅——曾6次登 陆月球、出现在7部邦德的 电影、史上首只潜水腕表 以及绝对不能忽视的25 次担任奥运会的指定计时 钟表商。 这些惊人的数字及壮 举除了在维基网页上构 成一篇让人哇然的文章之 外，究竟真正带来什么样 的影响呢？根据数字化奢 侈品集团（Digital Luxury Group）近期发布的一份 报告显示，欧米茄在中国 是最受欢迎的腕表品牌。 欧米茄并不仅是最受欢迎 的品牌，旗下的两款腕表

星座系列(Constellation) 和De Ville更是市场上最受 欢迎的表款，而卡地亚的 蓝气球钻表（Ballon Bleu） 排名第三。 所以，总而言之，我 们不只有风格、地位、海 底历险，我们还拥有外太 空。不过，这些只是在 蓝宝石水晶镜面表壳融合 Co-Axial同轴擒纵系统机 芯的先进技术的腕表出现 前的一切，当这个极具代 表性的杰作出现后，让整 趟旅程达至高峰。 首先，让我们时光倒 流至1848年，在一个铺 满灰尘的玻璃窗上划个小 圆圈，来窥探当时23岁的 Louis Brandt的工作室。他 从当地采购零件，然后在 位于瑞士拉绍德封狭小的 工作室内组装怀表，以此 为生。他所制造的怀表在 全欧洲均有售，但英国才

“跟老牌的超级间谍 一样，完成任务回 来都没有丝毫的划 痕与痕迹” Time after time the de ville trésor was inspired by the original 1949 model

是主要售卖其怀表的地方。 以及最有名的1965年成为 他的儿子于1871年继承生 美国国家航空航天局的指 意，并迅速转移到内部生 定计时钟表商，他们的股 产，并于1894年把公司名 票价格也持续上升。 为“欧米茄”。到了1903 美国国家航空航天局 年，欧米茄聘用800人及每 在1960年代寻找一只能 年生产约25万只腕表。 “防太空”的钟表时，并没 在接下来的70年，欧 有进行招标，而是从位于 米 茄 与 他 们 强 劲 的 对 手 休斯敦的一个零售商那里 劳力士一起发展成被称为 购买了10只精密计时表。 瑞士手表界的双王。随着 他们毫不留情地折磨这些 他们作为英国皇家飞行军 钟表，对它们进行各种极 团（1917年）、 美国军队 端测试，包括高温、潮湿、 （1918年）、25年奥运会 ， 腐蚀、加速、压力、振动、

w atc h e s 143

I

Eye for invention george daniels (above) created the first co-axial escapement

t is perhaps not a coincidence that the story of Omega watches reads more like the plot of a James Bond film than a dry company history. Buckle up for the quick flyover before we properly launch: six lunar landings, seven James Bond films, the first ever dive watch and an unmissable presence as the official timekeeper of 25 Olympic Games.

What do all these figures and feats amount to, aside from a thrilling read for the casual internet browser? The most desirable luxury watch brand in China, according to a recent report by Digital Luxury Group – that’s what.

Let the record show that Omega is not only the most desirable brand, but also makes the two most desirable models on the market: the Constellation and the De Ville (with Cartier’s Ballon Bleu in third).

So, to recap, we have style, we have supremacy, we have submarine adventures and we have outer space – and that’s all before we’ve peered through the sapphire glass case-back into the fast-becoming-iconic co-axial movement that’s helped to power this amazing journey to the top.

But first, let’s travel back in time to 1848, wipe a small circle in the dust on the window

pane and peer into the productive workshop of 23-year-old Louis Brandt. He made a living assembling pocket watches from locally sourced parts in his small workshop in La Chaux-deFonds, Switzerland, to be sold throughout Europe – but mainly in England. His sons took over the business in 1871 and moved quickly to in-house production. In 1894, they named the company Omega after one of their in-house calibres, preferring it to the Labrador and Gurzelen calibres.

By 1903, Omega employed 800 people and produced just under a quarter of a million watches each year. Over the next 70 years, Omega, in step with its great rival Rolex, grew to be considered the twin kings of the Swiss watch industry; their stock constantly rising on the back of their selection as official timekeepers for Britain’s Royal Flying Corps (1917), the American Army (1918), 25 Olympic Games and, most famously, NASA in 1965, which gave the Omega Speedmaster the title of ‘the first watch on the moon’.

Rather than putting the job out to tender, NASA had bought 10 chronograph watches from a retailer in Houston in the early 1960s, seeking one that would be ‘space-proof’. They tortured the watches without mercy, subjecting

w atc h e s 144

The moments that made Omega 欧米茄的历史传奇

1848

Wisely, they opt for Omega.

The company is founded by 23-year-old Louis Brandt in Bienne, Switzerland. He makes pocket watches from local parts and sells them, mainly to England.

时首次赢得美国PGA巡回赛——首届德 意志银行锦标赛，那是他的高尔夫球生 涯中第34场赛事，包括以62杆刷新赛道 记录。

23岁的Louis Brandt在比尔创立了这家 公司。他用当地采购零件制作怀表，大部 分买到英国。

1903

1879

欧米茄聘用800人，并且每年生产 240,000只腕表，令人惊讶。

Louis Brandt dies and his sons Louis-Paul and César take over.

They make two great decisions: one, to bring production of their watches in-house… 创办人Louis Brandt过世，他儿子 Louis-Paul与César继承家业。他们做 了两个很好的决定，其中一个是把生产转 移到内部生产。

1894 …And two, deciding not to name the company after one of its inhouse calibres called Labrador.

Omega employs 800 people and produces a staggering 240,000 watches per year.

1965 The Omega Speedmaster is declared the only watch ‘flight-qualified by NASA for all manned space missions’. 欧米茄Speedmaster超霸码表被宣布是 唯一一只“符合美国国家航空航天局资 格，适用于所有载人航天计划”的腕表。

Speedmaster. Contrary to popular opinion, Neil Armstrong did not leave his in the lunar module by accident – it was left there as a backup for the on-board timekeeping module, which had failed.

7月21号的这一天，太空人Buzz Aldrin 戴着欧米茄Speedmaster超霸码表登陆 月球。跟一般的舆论相反，首位登月太空 人Neil Armstrong并不是意外的遗留 他的欧米茄超霸码表在登月舱，而是特地 把它留在舱内，当舱上的计时仪器失灵时 能作为备份。

1970s Omega is the number-one Swiss producer of finished watches and outsells Rolex. 欧米茄是瑞士排名第一的腕表生产商，销 量更超过劳力士。

movement that replaces mechanical watches. 出现“石英危机”，便宜的石英机芯迅 速取代了机械机芯，成为当时广泛应用 的技术。

1998 The Swatch Group is formed and now manufactures brands such as Omega, Blancpain, Breguet and Swatch. 斯沃琪集团成立并至今生产各种品牌的钟 表包括欧米茄、宝珀、宝玑及斯沃琪。

1999 The Calibre 2500 is produced, making it the world’s first massproduced watch incorporating a co-axial escapement. 推出Calibre 2500机芯，成为世界上首

1969

1970s-1980s

款大量生产，拥有同轴擒纵系统装置的腕

On July 21, Buzz Aldrin walks on the moon wearing an Omega

The ‘Quartz Crisis’ sees the development of a cheap quartz

代机械制表业的一项重大革新。

表。这款机芯不需要添加润滑油，可谓近

to the most recent instalment, Skyfall (2012), and ongoing. Before this time, Bond had worn a Rolex Submariner, a fact that was playfully referenced in Casino Royale (2006) when femme fatale Vesper Lynd (Eva Green) asks Bond (Daniel Craig) if his Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a Rolex. “Omega,” he answers, to which she replies simply, “Beautiful”.

If that was Bond imitating life, there are also examples of life imitating Bond at Omega headquarters, which remains located in Bienne, Switzerland. Just like the suave super-spy, its product development team is not left wanting when it comes to accessing new inventions. Whoever performs the role of ‘Q’ – the fictional head of the British Secret Service’s Research and Development team – at Omega is doing a superb job. Omega watches are as prized for their innovations as they are their performance, which has netted the brand more records for accuracy than any other.

Somehow Omega has made the technical side of watchmaking sexy – to the extent that the movement inside many Omega models (called the co-axial mechanical movement)

w atc h e s

them to extreme heat, humidity, corrosion, acceleration, pressure, vibration, noise, vacuum and shock. Only the Speedmaster survived, and it was declared ‘flight-qualified

by NASA for all manned space missions’. Sure enough, the Speedmaster endured the mission, even though the on-board timekeeping system on the lunar module did not!

The same marketing nous that saw the triumphant ‘moonwatch’ leveraged to worldwide fame came into play when Omega seized the opportunity to have its watches appear in all James Bond movies, from GoldenEye in 1995

噪音、真空及冲击。经过 严格的测试后，只有欧米 茄的Speedmaster超霸码 表得以坚持到最后，并且 被正式宣布成为“符合美 国国家航空航天局资格， 适用于所有载人航天计划” ，超霸码表却果然不负重望 地完成使命 。 凯旋而归的“月球 表”利用其在世界各地的 名气，抓住机会与邦德的 电 影合 作 ， 从 1 9 9 5 年 的 《黄金眼》到最近的《大 破天幕杀机》，其腕表都 出现在每一套詹姆斯·邦 德的电影当中。在此之 前，邦德曾佩戴过劳力士 的Submariner腕表，而 在2006年的《大战皇家 赌场》电影中也被用作 开玩笑的话题，蛇蝎美人 Vesper Lynd（Eva Green

饰演）问邦德（Daniel Craig饰演）他手上所戴 着的欧米茄 Seamaster Planet Ocean腕表是否出 自劳力士？邦德回答：“ 欧米茄，”然后蛇蝎美人 简单的回应说：“漂亮。” 如果那是邦德在模仿 生活，那在欧米茄位于瑞 士比尔的总部则有生活 模仿邦德的例子。就好 像一位老牌的超级间谍一 样，当要测试小口径炮弹 这样的新发明时，他们的 开发团队却没有想过要离 开。不管是谁在欧米茄执 行“Q”的角色（英国特 勤局的研究和开发团队的 虚构代表标志），都做得 相当出色。欧米茄的腕表 的无论是创新还是性能都 一样完美，这也是构成欧米 茄的准确性比其他品牌更

Ahoy there!

Omega’s first range of seamaster watches ever released

“ the speedmaster was declared ‘ flight - qualified by nasa for all manned space missions ’ ” Oh-so chic!

This year, omega amped up the style with the release of its constellation pluma collection

145

w atc h e s 146

“ just as people trust a B ond film to deliver . . . so should they trust omega watches ” 高的原因。 不知道欧米茄为何能把制作手表 的技术方面变得有趣，甚至使用在 多款欧米茄型号的机芯——“Co－ Axial同轴”机械机芯成为了家传户 晓的名字。这是异乎寻的。机芯的 名字通常只有沉迷钟表的发烧友才会 认知，而且名字都是一系列随意的 字母与数字来的。但Co－Axial同轴 机芯却非如此。它跟欧米茄的代表腕 表“Speedmaster超霸”系列或“ 邦德腕表”一样的广为人知。 人们可能不知道Co－Axial同 轴机芯的运作原理，这是完全可以

谅解的，就跟明星Chris Martin和 Gwyneth Paltrow的关系一样复杂。 但至少他们知道使用这个机芯的好 处是更高的精确度及意味着最高的 品质。 正如人们对邦德的每一部电影 都有信心一样，他们也应该在各种 的环境，不管是月球还是海底，都 对欧米茄的腕表有十足的信心。欧 米茄的腕表跟007一样到过许多的 地方，而且和老牌的超级间谍一 样，完成任务回来时都没有丝毫的 划痕与痕迹。剩下唯一的问题是您 会带您的欧米茄腕表去哪？ ◆

is something of a household name, which is extraordinary. Usually the names of watch movements are strictly the preserve of geeky watch enthusiasts and comprised of a random series of letters and numbers. Yawn. Not the co-axial – it’s as common an Omega identifier as the Speedmaster range or the Bond watch.

People may not know how the co-axial calibre works – which is entirely forgivable as, like Chris Martin and Gwyneth Paltrow’s relationship, it’s complicated – but they know it results in increased accuracy and connotes the highest quality.

And just as people trust a Bond film to deliver every time on a wide range of terrain – from the moon to the bottom of the ocean – so should they trust Omega watches. They’ve explored just as many places as 007, and like the inscrutable super-spy, they’ve returned with barely a scratch on them.

The only question that remains is: Where will you take yours? ◆

Natural Attraction

Sydney 60 Pitt Street T. 02 9247 6344

Melbourne

HIGHER VIEW

119 Swanston Street T. 03 9662 3524

www.nationalopal.com

HIGHER VIEW

fa s h i o n 148

时尚笔触

与路易威登2014最新系列一起时尚地周游列国

First class Traverse the world in style with Louis Vuitton’s latest 2014 collection

fa s h i o n 149

Opposite page 左页 Shirt 衬衣 $905, Jumper 毛衣 $1,220, Overshirt 外套式衬衫 $3,400, Slim chinos 修身卡其裤 $905, 'Initiation' sunglasses 墨镜 $875, 'Alzer' trunk 行李 箱 from $8,950, 'Lodge' ankle boots 及踝靴 $1,120 This page 本页 Shirt 衬衣 $1,140, Jacket 外套 $3,600, Slim jeans 修身牛仔裤 $940, 'Initiation' sunglasses 墨镜 $875, Reversible rug 双 面毛毯 $2210, 'Alzer' trunk 行 李箱 from $8,950, 'County' derby shoes 德比鞋 $1,750

fa s h i o n 150

This page 左页 Shirt 衬衣 $810, Jacket 外 套 $3,500, Slim pants 修 身长裤 $1,000, 'Initiation' sunglasses 墨镜 $875, 'Alzer' trunk 行李箱 from $8,950, 'Clash' ankle boots 及踝靴 $1,360 Opposite page 右页 Casual shirt 休闲衬 衣 $1,140, Jumper 毛 衣 $1,160, Slim jeans 修 身牛仔裤 $940, 'Aviator' beanie 小便帽 $600, 'Initiation' sunglasses 墨镜 $875, 'Sirius a Dos' bag 手提包 $7900, Reversible rug 双面毛毯 $2,210, 'County' derby shoes 德比 鞋 $1,750

151

fa s h i o n

152 fa s h i o n

fa s h i o n 153

Opposite page 左页 Jumper 毛衣 $1,340, Jacket 外套 $8,750, Slim pants 修 身长裤 $1,090, 'Initiation' sunglasses 墨镜 $875, Scarf 围巾 $815, 'County' derby shoe 德比鞋 $1,750 This page 本页 Shirt 衬衣 $810, Peacoat 海 军外套 $4050, Slim jeans 修 身牛仔裤 $975, 'Initiation' sunglasses 墨镜 $875, 'PDV' soft briefcase 公事 包 $3,350, 'County' derby shoe 德比鞋 $1,750

fa s h i o n 154

Cardigan 毛衣 $1,570, Parka 大衣 $5,350, Slim chinos 修身卡其裤 $905, 'Initiation' sunglasses 墨镜 $875, Scarf 围巾 $815, 'Lodge' ankle boots 及踝靴 $1,120

SiO2nH2O

In Wonderland 55a George St, The Rocks, Sydney Australia www.opalminded.com +61 (0)2 9247 9885

fa s h i o n

tie fidelity Once the domain of the refined gent about town, today the bow tie is fast becoming a fashion staple, reckons Constantina Pilatos

领结 隽永时尚

156

Constantina Pilatos认为昔日上流绅士专利，现 在已成为时尚达人的必备单品

翻

一 翻历史书就 的演变，现在为人所熟知 会知道，不少 的蝴蝶领结的形状最早在 举足轻重的人 十九世纪出现，此后就没 物都打领结，在十九世纪 有什么变化了。“多少年 有前美国总统林肯，二十 来，打领结的潮流总是去 世纪则有著名影星Charlie 了又回来，现在这一次热 Chaplin、已故英国首相丘 潮是从2008年开始的。” 吉尔，还有无数好莱坞传 总部位于悉尼的领结店 奇，包括 Paul Newman Le Noeud Papillon的老 和Clark Gable等影帝都打 板Nicholas Atgemis如此 领结。时至今日，领结已 说︰“那时大家都一味追 经不再局限于上流绅士和 捧窄长翻领西装搭配窄版 正式晚宴，时尚达人都爱 黑领带，但只有少数人的 领结，事实上，无论什么 身材适合穿。后来全球经 场合他们总有合适的领结。 济危机的冲击下，大家开 自古以来，领结都处于男 始不再盲目地赶流行，转 士时尚的顶峰。 而追求不会过时的服饰。” 至于领结的起源，其 尽管各家快速时尚 中一个说法是在普鲁士战 的时装连锁店如雨后 争时期，那些克罗埃西亚 春笋般出现在各大城 佣兵习惯用丝带来把衬衣 市，每周推出新品，但 领口系紧，后来爱打扮的 男士们却选择了回到 法国人仿效他们，才把这 永 不 过 时 的 经 典 造 型 。 个本来只为实用的做法变 “ 现 在 最 风 行 的 是 订 做 衣 成了时尚的象征。 服，”Nicholas说︰“男 领 巾 是 领 结 的 前 身 。 士重视质量，仿效经得起 领巾的英文字Cravat源 时代淬炼的人物。他们想 自法文字Croat，意思是 要一双可以穿十年的鞋， “克罗埃西亚的”。以前的 或是一件任何时候都可以 领巾就只是一块围在脖子 穿的衬衣，他们宁可穿旧 上的布而已，经过长时间 衣也不要随手丢弃。花点

A

look back at the history books tells the tale: some of the world’s most prominent men have donned the bow tie. In the 1800s it was Abraham Lincoln. In the 1900s it went from Charlie Chaplin and Sir Winston Churchill to countless Hollywood legends, including such luminaries as Paul Newman and Clark Gable. Today, the bow tie isn’t just reserved for the gentry and those ‘black tie’ events; indeed, any fashionista worth his salt dons one. In fact, he’s probably got one for every occasion. From its genesis to present the bow tie has retained its status at the pinnacle of male fashion.

One tale regarding the roots of the bow tie stretches back to Croatian mercenaries who, during the Prussian wars, used to tie their shirt collars shut with ribbon. Later, as the style-conscious French were wont to do, they turned this simple practicality into a fashion statement.

The cravat was the forerunner to the bow tie.

Derived from the French word Croat, meaning Croatian, it was simply a piece of cloth tied around the neck. After a slow evolution, the most commonly known butterfly shape bow tie dates back to the 19th century and has remained the same ever since. “The bow tie’s popularity has come and gone throughout history,” says Nicholas Atgemis, proprietor of Sydney-based bow-tie boutique Le Noeud

From top 由上至下 All Le Noeud Papillon.

Papillon $165, Jean Francois $165, Van $155, Hayden $165, Kirk $165, Antoni $165, Midnight $165

fa s h i o n 158

All class For formal occasions its best to keep it clean and simple

Floating ties 左页 All Hugo Boss, $129 each.

钱买一个高质量的领结， 就可以用一辈子了。” G Q 杂 志 副 编 辑 Matthew Paroz提醒我 们，虽然领结是经典服饰 单品，选购的时候还是有 很多造型上的原则要注意。 布料和颜色决定您是否 选对了领结，“如果 您在夏天穿短袖衬 衣，搭配青年布 材质的领结会 很有型，但如 果您打了个丝质领 结去办公室开会就会很 怪异，恐怕别人会认为您 不够庄重。” 除了布料和颜色，蝴 蝶结的大小和形状也很重 要。领结分四种︰经典蝴 蝶结、现代蝴蝶结、蝙蝠 翼结、菱形结，分别合适 不同的脸形。“领结太大 会挡住下巴，太小看起来 很别扭，而且会破坏西装 的整体平衡。”Matthew 说︰“选领结可不容易，

光是选对已经是一种成 就了。” 掌握了布料、颜色、 大小、形状，还得勇敢戴 上去。Nicholas认为︰“戴 领结真的需要勇气，自己 亲手打领结更甚。” Matthew也同意这一 点。虽然他建议别人选择 要自己动手打而不是夹上 去的那种领结，而但他也 认同这为整件事情增添了 难度。“很多打领结的人 都觉得那个夹子破坏了整 个领结的美感，虽然对很 多男士来说，打领结很难， 但一旦掌握了就等于领会 了领结的精粹。”对一些人 来说，打出好领结的困难 程度远超过领结的优点， 因而永远与领结无缘，但 对于一部份勇于尝试的男 士来说，他们正开始领略一 种连美国总统和好莱坞顶 级巨星都认可的高尚品味。 这小小的结，绝对值得挑 战。 ◆

Papillon. “The beginning of the current boom was back in 2008. Everyone was chasing the slim lapel, skinny black tie look, that suits only a select few body shapes. Then the Global Financial Crisis hit and people became less obsessed with pursuing trends and turned to pieces of clothing that were timeless.”

With fast-fashion chain stores popping up in most capital cities and turning over stock weekly, men have reverted back to a classic look that will withstand a craze and exude timeless style. “Bespoke is all the rage right now,” says Nicholas. “Men care about the quality of a product and are looking to role models that transcend periods. They want to own a pair of shoes for ten years, or wear a shirt for five seasons. They want to wear down rather than chuck out. If you invest in a good quality bow tie it can last you a lifetime.”

While a bow tie may be a classic addition to the wardrobe there are many styling rules to consider when purchasing, reckons Matthew Paroz, Associate Editor of GQ. Fabric and colour play a heavy role in determining whether you are wearing a tie appropriately.

“If you were to wear a chambray bow tie with a short sleeved shirt in summer it can give you a polished and very cool look,” advises Matthew. “But if you were to wear a silk bow

“布料和颜色决定您 是否选对了领结”

fa s h i o n

tie to a meeting at work you could look a little eccentric and run the risk of not being taken seriously.”

Along with having an eye for fabric and colour you also have to get the size and shape of the bow right. There are four main types of bow ties – classic butterfly, modern butterfly, batwing and pointed – all of which are appropriate for different face shapes. “If a bow tie is too big then it can detract from your face; too small and then doesn’t quite look right and can throw off the balance of a suit,” says Matthew. “It’s not an easy piece to pull off, but if you do it’s really quite an accomplishment.”

Once the physical aspects are mastered – fabric, colour, size, and shape – men must carry it with confidence. “It takes guts to wear a bow tie,” reckons Nicholas. “It takes even more guts to tie one.”

On this point, Matthew agrees. While his number one tip when picking a bow tie is to opt for a self-tie rather than clip on, Matthew admits it adds a level of difficulty. “For many bow tie wearers the clip detracts from the beauty of the piece. It may be a difficult task for many men, but once mastered it you’ve reached the essence of wearing a bow tie.” For some, the complications of getting the bow tie right outweigh the benefits of wearing one and will forever remain off-limits.

But for the handful of men daring enough to try, they stand to gain a sense of style that comes with approval from American presidents and A-star Hollywood glitterati. And that has to be worth tying the knot. ◆

159

Glitz and glamour it’s not uncommon to find bow ties adorned with beads and sequins

fa s h i o n 160

Here's a step-by-step guide on how to get your bow tie right the first time, every time 一步一步教您打出好领结

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Wrap the tie around

Take the longest

Now, with the

Fold the long end

Pull both ends of

Feed remaining

Tighten by pulling

your neck and make

end and fold it

shorter end, form

over the bow and

the folded bow

length back through

the front bow on

one end longer

over and under the

a bow a cinch the

leave it to hang

together to snap

exposed hole using

one end and the

than the other

shorter end

knot

over

shut

the base length to

alternate bow on

push through first

the other end

1. 把带子搭在脖子 上，一端要比另一 端长。

2. 把长的一端跨 在另一端之上，再 从两条带子中间翻 出来。

3. 把短的一端折成 蝴蝶状。

4. 把长的一端覆盖 在蝴蝶结的上面， 折成蝴蝶状。

5. 把左右两边拉 好，抓紧。

6. 把过长的带子插 进后面的圈内，调 整好长度。

7. 一端拉住前面的 结，另一端拉住后 面的结，拉紧。

Live and let tie

Le Noeud Papillion售卖世界各地高级棉布，专业订做衬衣、袋巾、晚间便服以配衬您的领结。

Importing the highest grade cotton from all around the world, Le Noeud Papillion also specialise in custom-made shirts, pocket squares and smoking jackets to match your tie. 36 New South Head Road, Vaucluse. lenoeudpapillon.com

exhibition on now AT MuSEuM OF SYDNEY 悉尼博物馆 新展览开幕

29 March – 12 OctOber 2014 A new exhibition at the Museum of Sydney explores the pivotal role Sydney’s early Chinese community played in shaping modern Australia.

With archival photographs, stunning family heirlooms and personal stories, the exhibition celebrates almost two centuries of cultural diversity and the pioneering identities who paved the way for Sydney’s vibrant Chinese community today.

From forgotten Sydney icons of great beauty like the Chinese tearooms of the late 1800s to interviews with successful Chinese fashion designers and artists from Sydney’s community, Celestial City shines a spotlight on the rich history of one of Sydney’s most influential and respected communities.

A room brochure in Chinese is available.

《异乡》除了再現已被遺忘的悉尼之美，如19世紀末的中國 茶房，更訪問了悉尼知名的華人時裝設計師及藝術家，展示 出華人作為悉尼最具影響力及受尊重的群體之一，其豐富多 彩的歷史。 提供中文版本的展览小册子。 悉尼博物馆 每天开放 早上10时至下午5时 成人 $10澳币 儿童／特惠 $5澳币 家庭 $20澳币 位于悉尼菲利普街和大桥街拐角处，从环形码头出发步行两分钟 电话 02 9252 5988

#celestialSydney

MuseuM of sydney OPEN DAILY 10am–5pm Adults $10 Child/Concession $5 Family $20 Cnr Phillip & Bridge streets, Sydney 2 minutes walk from Circular Quay T 02 9252 5988

sydneylivingmuseums.com.au Historic Houses Trust of NSW

Portrait of Quong Tart, artist unknown, c1880s, State Library of NSW ML 1346

悉尼博物馆举办新展览，探索早期悉尼华人在塑造现代澳大 利亚時所扮演的角色。藉由档案照片、珍贵的传家宝和真人 故事，追溯過去近两百年間多元文化發展，以及早期華人的 身份如何為今天活躍的悉尼華人社群奠定了基礎。

l a st w o r d

my higher life

Francesca Cumani Acclaimed equestrienne and racing personality Francesca Cumani talks travelling, horse racing and fashion on the field 著名的女骑手及赛马名人 Francesca Cumani畅谈旅游、 赛马和时尚心得与体验

162

墨尔本最好的是……

... be adventurous. Chat to the locals, shop at markets, see the sights.

I also love to walk through a city.

It is the best way to get a feel for it; you see a lot more than you would through a taxi window.

餐厅！每当我在墨尔本，都是情不自禁地 去MoVida餐厅及ChinChin餐厅用餐，它 们两家都是非常出众的餐厅。MoVida是 西班牙菜，提供西班牙传统小吃等美食， 而ChinChin是东南亚菜。选择的多样性 让墨尔本成为一个独特的城市。

每当到达一个大城市……

Foreign foods…

要有冒险精神，勇于尝试。包括跟当地人 聊天、逛本地市场及游览名胜。我也喜欢 在城市中徒步游览，这样最能够感受到城 市风情以及比起乘搭计程车，透过窗户所 能看到的会更多、更丰富。

Always pack… ... a good book. Sometimes you can find yourself waiting for a train or bus, and a book is more convenient to pull out than a laptop.

随身携带……

People say to be careful when you're eating in a foreign country, but I love trying local delicacies; it allows you to experience tastes and flavours you might not have known existed.

国外的食物…… 别人都说身在外地时用餐要额外小心，我 却喜欢尝试当地美食，这让您体验到从前 未曾尝试过的不同口味及风味。

Race of the season…

一本好书。它能在长途旅行中有任何延误 时用来消磨时间。有时候在等火车或巴士 时，不方便把手提电脑取出，这个时候一本 书就刚好派上用场。

There is this immense build-up to the Melbourne Cup – and for good reason! It's a very international race that Australians do so well in. It has to be my favourite race to attend.

Into the wild...

本赛季的赛事……

I'm a country girl at heart, so when coming to Australia it's so great never being far from the wild. The Mornington Peninsula is an hour south of Melbourne and you get the feeling you are in a remote corner of the world.

投身野外…… 我的本质其实是个乡下姑娘，所以来到澳 大 利 亚 时感 到 非 常 高 兴，不用 远 程 就 能 到 达 野 外。往 墨 尔 本 南 部 开 车 一 个 小 时 便 来 到 摩 林 顿 半 岛（ M o r n i n g t o n Peninsula），感觉好 像置身于世界一个 偏僻的角落似的。

Melbourne is best for… ... the restaurants! Whenever I'm in the city, I can't help but pay a visit to MoVida (movida.com.au) and Chin Chin (chinchinrestaurant.com.au). They are both so different. MoVida has a Spanish focus, serving up tapas, while Chin Chin has a South-East Asian menu. Diversity is what makes Melbourne so unique.

墨尔本杯是一个非常国际化的比赛，澳大 利亚在其中也表现得很好，它必定是我最 喜欢参加的比赛。

The right attire…

I always advise ladies to stick to a classy dress, but try not to go too evening as it looks odd during the day. As for heels, if you can walk in them, great! If not, you'll struggle on the uneven grass. Men can't go wrong with a black or navy suit and button-up shirt.

正确的着装…… 我常建议女士们挑选经典不过时的裙子，可 是尽量不要过于隆重典雅，不然白天穿起来 会显得很奇怪。至于高跟鞋，除非您能在草 地上驾驭它们，不然在凹凸不平的草地上走 起来会很辛苦。男士们穿一套黑色或深蓝色 西装配搭带扣衬衣，就一定不会出错。 The Melbourne Cup carnival will be held from the November 1 to 8. melbournecup.com

Photograph by Trent van der Jagt

When in a big city…

悉尼歌剧院导览 中文讲解之旅

欢迎来到悉尼歌剧院，探索这个已被列入联合国教科文组织世界遗产名录的经典杰作

走进神圣的剧场和大厅，这里每年举办1800余场精彩纷呈的表演

探寻歌剧院、艺术家以及演出背后鲜为人知的秘密和故事

在导游的带领下进入不同的区域，从绝佳的角度拍摄精美照片

您会发现，入内观赏可以获得更多精彩的体验，而仅仅驻足门外终将成为遗憾

导游参观的开放 时间为每天上午 9时至下午5时

SY D N E Y O P E R A H O U S E P R I N C I PA L PA RT N E R

预订请前往售票处，或登录 sydneyoperahouse.com/tours 在线预订