July 2015 #11
State of the art REFLEC T IN G O N SHANG HAI ’ S BOOMIN G AR T SCENE
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Watches Watches of Switzerland of Switzerland · 294· 294 Collins Collins Street Street Melbourne Melbourne · (03)· (03) 96719671 33883388 FourFour Seasons Seasons Hotel Hotel · 199· 199 George George Street Street Sydney Sydney · (02)· (02) 92519251 00880088 · 38 ·King 38 King Street Street PerthPerth · (08)· (08) 93229322 88008800 www.watchswiss.com www.watchswiss.com
Even the parts that you can’t see.
coating process is responsible for the brilliant colours and the
different sizes are cut out with extremely sharp contours, producing
crisp details. Interference effects – the superposition of light
a miniaturised image of the Milky Way. The smallest stars on the
waves – absorb all non-blue colour spectra of the incident daylight.
lunar disc have a diameter of merely 0.07 millimetres – less than
The result is an intensely blue surface on which the 382 stars of
the average thickness of a human hair. www.alange-soehne.com
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Gold Point Gold GoldHouse Point Point GoldHouse House Point House
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The Perth The The Mint Perth Perth The Mint Mint Perth Mint
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查詢電話: 查詢電話: 查詢電話: 查詢電話: 18001800 1800 228 1800 668 228 228 668 668 228 668 瀏覽網址: 瀏覽網址: 瀏覽網址: 瀏覽網址: PinkKimberley.com.au PinkKimberley.com.au PinkKimberley.com.au PinkKimberley.com.au
2013 ARGYLE 2013 2013 ARGYLE ARGYLE TENDER 2013 ARGYLE TENDER TENDERTENDER STONE LOT STONE STONE 17 LOT LOT STONE 17 17 LOT 17 RECUT 0.38 RECUT RECUT CARAT 0.38 0.38 RECUT CARAT CARAT 0.38 CARAT HEART HEART HEART HEART ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE ARGYLEPINK PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDSDIAMONDSFPR/VS2 DIAMONDSFPR/VS2 FPR/VS2 FPR/VS2 GIA- FANCY GIAGIAPURPLISH FANCY FANCY GIAPURPLISH PURPLISH FANCY PURPLISH RED /VS2 RED RED/VS2 /VS2 RED /VS2
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ALL PINK ALL ALL PINK PINK ALL DIAMONDS PINK DIAMONDS DIAMONDS DIAMONDS ARE ARE FROM ARE FROM ARE FROM FROM THE THE ARGYLE THE ARGYLE THE ARGYLE DIAMOND ARGYLE DIAMOND DIAMOND DIAMOND MINEMINE MINEMINE WESTERN WESTERN WESTERN WESTERN AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIA.
稀世珍寶 稀世珍寶 稀世珍寶 彰顯尊貴 彰顯尊貴 彰顯尊貴 唯獨粉紅金伯利 唯獨粉紅金伯利 唯獨粉紅金伯利 粉紅金伯利 粉紅金伯利 粉紅金伯利 (Pink 粉紅金伯利 Kimberley) (Pink (Pink Kimberley) Kimberley) (Pink Kimberley) 是一個典雅悅目的 是一個典雅悅目的 是一個典雅悅目的 是一個典雅悅目的 首飾品牌,採用優質精緻的白鑽石和澳大利亞天 首飾品牌,採用優質精緻的白鑽石和澳大利亞天 首飾品牌,採用優質精緻的白鑽石和澳大利亞天 首飾品牌,採用優質精緻的白鑽石和澳大利亞天 然粉紅鑽石精雕細琢而成。這些名貴的粉紅鑽石 然粉紅鑽石精雕細琢而成。這些名貴的粉紅鑽石 然粉紅鑽石精雕細琢而成。這些名貴的粉紅鑽石 然粉紅鑽石精雕細琢而成。這些名貴的粉紅鑽石 位於西澳大利亞金伯利地區的阿蓋爾鑽石礦,是 位於西澳大利亞金伯利地區的阿蓋爾鑽石礦,是 位於西澳大利亞金伯利地區的阿蓋爾鑽石礦,是 位於西澳大利亞金伯利地區的阿蓋爾鑽石礦,是 世界上獨一無二,極為稀有的珍貴鑽石。 世界上獨一無二,極為稀有的珍貴鑽石。 世界上獨一無二,極為稀有的珍貴鑽石。 世界上獨一無二,極為稀有的珍貴鑽石。
2013-14年度國際阿蓋爾鑽石拍賣會創下天價的粉鑽以面世 2013-14年度國際阿蓋爾鑽石拍賣會創下天價的粉鑽以面世 2013-14年度國際阿蓋爾鑽石拍賣會創下天價的粉鑽以面世 2013-14年度國際阿蓋爾鑽石拍賣會創下天價的粉鑽以面世 2014 ARGYLE TENDER 2014 ARGYLE 2014 2014 ARGYLE ARGYLE TENDER TENDERTENDER STONE LOT 10 LOT STONE STONE STONE LOT 10 10 LOT 10 0.54 CARAT 0.54 0.54SQUARE CARAT CARAT 0.54SQUARE SQUARE CARAT SQUARE RADIANTRADIANT RADIANTRADIANT ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE ARGYLEPINK PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDSDIAMONDSRED/SI2 DIAMONDSRED/SI2 RED/SI2 RED/SI2 GIA- FANCY GIAGIAVIVID FANCY FANCY GIAVIVID VIVID FANCY VIVID PURPLISHPURPLISH PURPLISH PINK /SI2PURPLISH PINK PINK/SI2 /SI2 PINK /SI2
2014 ARGYLE TENDER 2014 ARGYLE 2014 2014 ARGYLE ARGYLE TENDER TENDERTENDER STONE LOT 6 LOT STONE STONE STONE LOT 66 LOT 6 0.34 CARAT 0.34 0.34EMERALD CARAT CARAT 0.34EMERALD EMERALD CARAT EMERALD ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE ARGYLEPINK PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDSDIAMONDSRED/SI1 DIAMONDSRED/SI1 RED/SI1 RED/SI1 GIA- NATURAL GIAGIA-NATURAL FANCY NATURAL GIA- FANCY NATURAL FANCY FANCY RED /SI1 RED RED/SI1 /SI1 RED /SI1
2014 ARGYLE 2014 2014 ARGYLE ARGYLE TENDER 2014 ARGYLE TENDER TENDERTENDER STONE LOT STONE STONE 41 LOT LOT STONE 41 41 LOT 41 0.66 CARAT 0.66 CARAT 0.66PEAR CARAT PEAR 0.66PEAR CARAT PEAR
ARGYLE PINK ARGYLE ARGYLEPINK PINK ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDSDIAMONDSDIAMONDS4P/P1 DIAMONDS4P/P1 4P/P1 4P/P1 GIA- FANCY GIAGIAINTENSE FANCY FANCY GIAINTENSE INTENSE FANCY INTENSE PINK /P1 PINK PINK/P1 /P1 PINK /P1
意大利名表: 优宝
I N T RO D U C I N G T H E 7387 FL I G H T D E C K AU TO M AT I C 5 0 M M I N B L AC K C E R A M I C ... W W W.U - B OAT.C O M . AU
中国驻悉尼旅游办事处
INTRODUCTION 18
Welcome from CNTO, Sydney
Welcome from China Eastern
体
本
T
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验上海的玫瑰花茶美体之旅;浸泡在丽江的花瓣浴池里;纵 期的主题为放松与享受,中国在这方面为您提供无尽的选 情享受在杭州的龙井茶全身磨砂之中;或是在云南感受一下 择,其数量之多是其他国家无法与之媲美的。无论是各式各 以南瓜和纯米为原料的身体护理,把烦恼一扫而空。中国拥有各 样的水疗中心(翻到第78页至86页)或是极致奢华的五星级酒店 式各样的豪华水疗中心,足够为您缓解一切的酸痛、疼痛、烦恼和 (第120页至128页),均能满足每个人的需求及品位。 压力。本期第78页至86页中,您将会发现不管是在华灯璀璨的城 不过最让人放轻松的地方也许并不是那些设有热石护理或舒 市,还是在中国美丽的郊外,五星级的水疗中心比比皆是。 适豪华大床的地方。以中国的水乡为例,在非繁忙时段前往游览, 酒店业也如出一辙,世界上一些让人惊叹的酒店汇聚于此,如 您会发觉自己置身于古时比较朴素、安静的时光之中,翻到第98 Alicia Miller在第120页至128页所说,没有哪个地方能媲美中国高 页至106页,准备好来一次仿若时光倒流的旅程吧。 端奢华且别具风格的住宿体验。 与此同时谢琴陶醉在五光十色的重庆,当地远近驰名的火锅 这期我们还到访了重庆、探索美丽秀雅的水乡,并且为您介绍 令她着迷(第58页至66页)。另外,我们也为您准备了中、澳两地 全国最新的活动与节目。 不容错过的一切。祝您阅读愉快!
ake a beautifying rose tea ‘journey’ in Shanghai; bathe in a pool of petals in Lijiang; enjoy a Longjiang tea scrub in Hangzhou; or have your problems soothed away by a pumpkin and rice body conditioner in Yunnan. China has the solution to all your aches, pains, troubles and stresses, with its vast collection of luxurious spas. As you’ll discover on pages 78 to 86, whether you’re enjoying a city break or some of China’s more beautiful rural destinations, a five-star spa is never far away. The same can be said of hotels. We’re home to some of the world’s most stunning, and as Alicia Miller reveals on pages 120 to 128, nobody does opulence and style quite like some of the places to stay in China. Also inside this issue, we visit the city of Chongqing, sample the beauty of our water towns, and reveal all the latest events across the country in the coming months.
his issue is all about relaxation – something China offers more so than any other country in the world. Whether you’re being tempted by the countless spa breaks in cities and provinces across the country (pages 78-86) or want to treat yourself to the ultimate stay in the lap of luxury at one of the many five-star hotels China has to offer (pages 120-128), there’s something for everyone’s taste. Perhaps the most relaxing places of all are those that don’t necessarily involve a hot stone massage or super-soft kingsize bed. Take, for instance, China’s water towns. Avoid peak times and a stroll around these areas to transport yourself to simpler, quieter times, as we do on pages 98-106. Elsewhere (pages 58-66), Qin Xie is dazzled by the city lights of Chongqing, and is equally enthralled by its famous hot pot. And as always, we have all the upcoming highlights from across China and Australia. Enjoy.
Higher View Issue 11
Sub Editor Adam Scroggy
Editorial Director Richard Ryan
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Higher View is produced for
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business-class passengers
Group Editor Alex Mead
Contributors Qin Xie, Lisa Perkovic, Alicia Miller, Mark Parren Taylor, John Skilbeck
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between China and Australia.
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Production Manager Ian Scott
Publisher Jim Flynn (02) 8188 3671 jim@citrusmedia.com.au
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newsagents and hotels.
crystal@citrusmedia.com.au
via the App Store.
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© 2015 Citrus Media. All rights reserved. No article or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher. Citrus Media is a division of Media Factory Pty Ltd. While every care was taken during the preparation of this magazine, Citrus Media cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it.
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Cover image by Shanghai
NSW 2002
Museum of Glass
All views and opinions expressed herein are the personal views of the writer/photographer and do
not necessarily reflect the views or opinions of China National Tourism Office Sydney (CNTO) or any of its employees, affiliates or agencies. Higher View is an independent publication and is in no way endorsed by CNTO. The contents/ photos do not necessarily represent the views of China Eastern Airlines.
Contents
48 AU S T R A L I A
Orpheus Island
25 News 时事要闻 What’s going on where across China and Australia 34 Guangzhou in eight stops 广州之旅 Here are the places not to miss in this cultural city 40 Guided tour 塔州特产 Discover Tasmania’s finest local produce
46 多姿多彩的南澳州 潘华、胡玫带领我们探索 这个出产全国超过一半的 葡萄酒,并且把酿酒当成 艺术来享受的南澳州
42 48 hours in Kunming 昆明48小时 Spend two days exploring this culture-filled city
48 Australian idyll 澳大利亚伊甸园 Orpheus Island masters laid-back luxury
Contents 132
Mulberry
78
134
Dunhill
CHIN A
Seven for heaven 58 Metropolis now 渝都 Qin Xie explores one of China’s fastest growing cities, Chongqing
98 Water world 水乡风情 Just outside Shanghai lie water towns that buck the big-city trend
68 Southern star 南方之星 No longer a stop-over city, Adelaide is Australia’s shiny new playground
108 Country Charm 魅力乡村 Wineries and restaurants are breathing new life into NSW country town, Orange
78 Seven for heaven 七个人间天堂 Alicia Miller pays a visit to seven of China’s best spa offerings
120 Stay classy 北京新酒店风貌 New hotels in Bejing are raising the bar when it comes to luxury stays
88 Whisky business 情迷威士忌 Whisky bars are Sydney’s specialty, says Trent van der Jagt
131 Higher life 奢华生活 We showcase the latest luxury goods from world-leading brands
108
Or an ge
58
Chongqing
140 Back to basics 极简艺术 Tod’s Spring/Summer 2015 RTW Collection is day-to-day sophistication
154 Calling the shots 百分之百 Ding Junhui is leading the way for the growth of snooker in China
148 It’s all in the jeans 牛仔魅力 Denim features in Tom Ford’s Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear Collection
162 My higher life “皇冠”之主 We chat to Iwan Sunito, property developer for the exclusive Crown Group
The Queen Victoria Building, 445 George St, Sydney: Shop 22, The Grand Walk T (02) 9267 6628 F (02) 9267 4757
FALL IN LOVE
CITY LIGHTS
GLASS HOUSE
GOLDEN YEARS
The ultimate romantic ballet, Giselle, tours Oz p27
Sydney is captivated by one-of-a-kind light show, Vivid p28
Shanghai has a new addition, the Museum of Glass p32
Some of China’s most rare art works will be visiting Victoria p38
view point
You’ll discover a magical transformation at Tasmania’s newest lakeside accommodation, Pumphouse Point. The now converted hydro station is surrounded by dense forest and serene waters, and is rich with local history. From $240 per night, pumphousepoint.com.au
静谧心醉 经过全面翻修的PUMPHOUSE POINT酒店成为塔斯马尼亚最新的湖畔住宿选择, 酒店坐落于葱郁的森林之中,被平静如镜的湖泊以及深厚的历史背景环绕着。 每晚$240起。pumphousepoint.com.au
MUST TRY 必尝美食
NEWS
素食“煮”义
26
上海全新顶级素食餐厅福和慧首次入选“2015 亚洲50佳餐厅”榜单,名列第19位。餐厅提供 全素菜色,采用亚洲上等食材,包括芋头、莲子、 龙眼以及北海道红豆。地址:上海市长宁区愚 园路1037号。
Green cuisine
Shanghai new-comer, Fu He Hui, has nabbed the Highest New Entry award on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015 list, coming in at 19; an amazing feat for a strictly vegetarian restaurant. The meatfree menu features indigenous Asian ingredients such as taro, lotus seeds, longan fruit and Hokkaido red beans. 1037 Yuyuan Road, Changning District, Shanghai, theworlds50best.com/asia
STAY
新风格 位于布里斯班毅力谷(FORTITUDEVALLEY)的TRYP酒店, 为城市引进了崭新且独特的住宿体验。这也是城内唯一一 家富有街头艺术风格的酒店,创意大胆前卫,由澳大利亚 一些最具创意的艺术家一同协力创建。每晚$199起 。
new on the block
Modern cool TRYP HOTEL’S ROOFTOP BAR OVERLOOKS BRISBANE’S SKYLINE
Brisbane’s TRYP hotel, in Fortitude Valley, introduces a new genre of accommodations to the city. Channeling the ever-hip and funky BrisVegas vibes, the boutique hotel enlisted the help of some of Australia’s most creative to design the city’s only street-art hotel. From $199 per night.
trypbrisbane.com
Fall in love
Love conquers death in the ultimate romantic ballet. Since it premiered in 1841, Giselle has pulled at audiences’ heart strings as it follows the story of a village girl who falls in love with a man who is not all he seems. Showing Australia-wide from April – July; for exact dates head to australianballet.com.au
NEWS
堕入爱河 《吉赛尔》 (GISELLE)自1841年 首演以来紧扣观众的心弦,以 芭蕾舞蹈演绎爱情征服死亡的 爱情故事,讲述了乡村女孩爱 上一个她只知道名字的男子。于 四月至七月期间在澳大利亚全 国公演,查询确切日子,请到访 网站 australianballet. com.au
A concierge’s Perth 珀斯兰利诺富特酒店的宾客关系专员Jennifer Worden
专属于您
JENNIFER WORDEN, GUEST RELATIONS AT NOVOTEL PERTH LANGLEY
悉尼机场迎来首个天合联盟专属候机室。候机室为 经常出行的乘客提供各种优质设施,包括配备淋浴 室和全身按摩椅的健康中心、电视间、商务区以及有 免费茶点供享用。
Must-see attractions... There’s so much to
sky high
迷,那弗里曼特尔监狱和珀斯铸币厂是您的最佳之选。如
Sydney Airport has welcomed its first SkyTeam Exclusive Lounge. Created with the frequent traveller in mind, guests will find a wellness centre including shower and full body massage chairs, TV room, business area and complimentary refreshments,
skyteam.com
choose from in Perth. If you’re a history buff Fremantle Prison and Perth Mint are for you. If you’re a nature lover you can’t go past Caversham Wildlife Park. 必去景点:珀斯有许多值得到访的景点。如果您是个历史 果您热爱大自然,必定不能错过凯维森野生动物园。
Attractions to avoid... When going to any Perth beach always avoid swimming outside of the designated flag and life saving area – Perth’s beaches can be as dangerous as they are beautiful. 该避免前往的地方:到访珀斯的海滩游泳时应避免到指定 的旗帜以外或是救生范围内。珀斯的海滩虽然很漂亮,同 时也十分危险。
Best place to get a photo... Sunset at any of
新动向 COMING SOON
密切留意这些顶级厨师的新动向 KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THESE TOP CHEFS’ NEW ENDEAVOURS
our beaches – Cottesloe, Scarborough, City Beach and Leighton – are some of the best options for visitors staying near central Perth. 取景拍照的最佳地点:任何一个海滩的日落— —科特索海 滩、斯卡波罗海滩、城市沙滩以及雷顿海滩 ,对于在珀斯 市中心留宿的游客,这些都是最好的选择。
If you want to try something new... Take a ferry over to Rottnest Island to meet a Quokka (small native marsupial exclusive to Rottnest). 如果您想尝试新事物:搭乘渡轮,前往罗特尼斯岛看看短 尾矮袋鼠(只在罗特尼斯岛出没的有袋原生小动物)。
A unique souvenir to pick up... Perth Mint specialises in exclusive and unique Golf Souvenir items that are still melted and pressed on site. 独树一帜的纪念品:珀斯铸币厂出产独一无二的高尔夫纪 念品,并且即场在厂内进行融化和压制的工程。
BEN GREENO
ADRIANO ZUMBO
位于悉尼星港城(THE STAR)荣获三顶厨师帽 MOMOFUKU SEIOBO餐厅的行政总厨被委任为 PADDINGTON ARMS酒店的主厨,他将重新让大众对酒 吧食物有全新的认识与观感。
ZUMBO风格的下午茶即将进驻墨尔本。这位明星甜点师傅 将开设一家“下午茶沙龙”,把自己独特创新的元素融入这 个古老的传统当中。
The Executive Chef of the three-hatted Momofuku Seiobo has been appointed head chef at old Paddington Arms Hotel, where he is set to recreate the perception of pub food.
High tea, Zumbo-style, is coming to Melbourne. The celebrity pastry chef will open an ‘afternoon tea salon’, putting his own twist an age-old tradition. Fingers crossed his macarons are on the menu.
paddoarms.com.au
starwoodhotels.com
Phrases or slang that might be helpful for foreigners... G’day mate! See you this arvo (this afternoon) for a cold one (cold beer). 外国人在澳适用的俚语或常用语:“G’day mate”是招 呼语,意为您好;“arvo”是下午的缩写;“cold one”是 指冰冻的啤酒。
Best place for drinks... Little Creatures Pub in Fremantle is where you’ll find some of the country’s best homemade craft beers. 喝啤酒的好去处:位于弗里曼特尔的Little Creatures Pub酒吧供应澳洲一些最棒的自制精酿啤酒。
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FEATURE EVENT
NEWS
光影四射 Let there be light 成千上万的游客专程到访悉尼参加一年一度的灯光、音乐及创意艺术节“活力悉 尼VIVID SYDNEY”,一睹悉尼一些最具地标性的建筑被改造成光影艺术雕塑 VISITORS COME IN THE MILLIONS TO SEE SYDNEY’S MOST ICONIC BUILDINGS TRANSFORM INTO LIGHT ART SCULPTURES FOR THE ANNUAL LIGHT, MUSIC AND IDEAS FESTIVAL, VIVID SYDNEY
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5月22日至6月8日 May 22 – June 8 vividsydney.com
晚宴美食 Dinner DeLights 著名的岛上餐厅丹尼森堡(FORT DENISON)再次举办“晚宴美食DINNER DELIGHTS”,让客人一边享用豪华的两道菜 晚餐,一边欣赏“活力悉尼”在城市及海湾 的灯光汇演。5月24日至6月10日。 Iconic island restaurant Fort Denison will once again host Dinner DeLights giving festival-goers the chance to enjoy a sumptuous two-course dinner overlooking the city and harbour light show. From May 24 – June 10, fortdenison.com.au
岩石区活力悉尼夜市 The Rocks Vivid Night markets 在星光及灯光的照耀下游览岩石区活力悉尼 夜市。经过众多美食摊之后来到海滨观赏超 过50个互动式灯光展品。活动日期待定。 Shop under the stars – and lights – at The Rocks Vivid Night Markets. After you’ve worked your way through the delicious food stalls, wander along the harbour foreshore to discover more than 50 interactive light installations. Dates TBC, therocks.com
灯光与美食 Vivid LIVE 要成功购买悉尼歌剧院举办的“VIVID LIVE”门票并不容易。此项活动颂扬雄心 勃勃的流行音乐,一些最好的当代音乐艺 术家将在其中有精彩的表演,因此门票很 快销售一空。 Nabbing a seat at Sydney Opera House for Vivid LIVE won’t be an easy task. The event is a celebration of ambitious popular music where the best contemporary music artists take centre stage and tickets sell quickly. vividsydney.com/music
2014 IPOH RETAILER OF THE YEAR
BEIJING
DON’T MISS 不容错过
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C O C K TA I L H O U R While Shanghai has lead the way for China’s booming cocktail scene, Beijing is certainly catching up with bars like Janes and Hooch. The Chicago-style speakeasy is a favourite among locals. J&H’s drink menu features lesser-known cocktails such as 50 Shades of Oolong – ‘smokey oolong infused tanqueray, lemon, simple, egg white’ – or the Filthy Martini – ‘K1 vodka, noilly prat, in house citrus/thyme brines, kalamata olives’. Aside from the cocktails, a selective menu of champagne, bourbon, rye and whiskey is on offer, though some of the more expensive tipples are only available by the bottle. janeshooch.com
Home grown Beijing is currently being flooded with gleaming new international five-star hotels (just flick to our feature on the best to open this year, page 118), but here is a must-stay from a local hotel chain NUO...
3 reasons to stay... • NUO is one of the country’s first home-grown luxury hotel brands. You can expect authentic Chinese-inspired designs and heritage. • Located near Beijing’s Art Zone 798, NUO is a contemporary showcase of unique design that is inspired by both its urban location and the ‘Golden Age’ of the Ming Dynasty. • A destination in its own right, the hotel will feature its own art gallery – featuring custom-works from Zeng Fanzhi – as well as restaurants and bars.
ON YOUR BIKE! Urban tours are fast becoming the most popular way to explore Beijing. Taking a cue from the locals, hop on a bike and zig-zag through the ancient alleyways and hutongs of Beijing, ride along the moat of the Forbidden City and learn the secrets of the ancient city with Beijing Urban Adventures. From $106 per person, beijingurbanadventures.com
SHANGHAI
Drop in
THERE IS NO DENYING CHINA IS HEAD-OVER-HEELS IN LOVE WITH WINE. WE VISIT THE BARS SERVING UP A GOOD AMOUNT OF LOVING...
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Napa A fully fledged wine-lovers’ paradise, Napa features a star-studded list of well in excess of 700 wines and the menu is of equal quality. napawinebarandkitchen.com
Roosevelt Wine Cellar
show time Multi-million-dollar production ERA: The Intersection of Time is Shanghai’s most popular acrobatic show, featuring the gamut of traditional and contemporary Chinese acrobatics from aerial walking, bowl balancing and trampoline shows to high-flying trapeze acts and motorcycle cage stunts. era-shanghai.com
The Roosevelt happens to boast the largest
wine reserve not only in Shanghai, but also the world. Some 4,000 bottles occupy an entire floor of the Bund 27 building. 27bund.com
Project Wine This is a place for newbies to the wine scene to get a taste of what it’s all about. The wine list is trim with fruity wines and chardonnay. 17-1 Xiangyang Bei Lu, near Julu Lu
SMOOTH AS GLASS
Shanghai has a shiny new addition to its growing creative scene, the Museum of Glass. Set in a huge former glass-making factory, the museum’s interior is like a house of mirrors where the majority of it is made from glass. en.shmog.org
Guangzhou ...IN EIGHT STOPS
Guangzhou, known formerly as Canton, is China’s busiest transport and trade hub. You are likely to have a layover here, so why not do some exploring...
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Canton Tower
3
Shaiman Island
There’s plenty to do at the world’s fourth tallest building. Head up to the 107th-floor observation deck, take on the 450-metre sky drop, ride the the world’s highest ferris wheel and climb the open-air staircase.
Once a sandbank on the Pearl River, today Shaiman Island is a postcard of European history with Baroque and neoclassical architecture lining the streets.
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Liwan Lake Park
5
Baiyun Mountain
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Yuexiu Park
First known as Litchi Bay (for the lychee trees lining the creek), this historic area is a great space to see locals at play, from tai chi to karaoke-style Cantonese opera.
A 30-peak parkland with a 382-metre climb to the highest point, Baiyun Mountain is a popular sunset-lookout spot – that’s if you can get there.
1
Guangzhou Opera House
Shaped to resemble two pebbles on the bank of the pearl river, the Guangzhou Opera House is an architectural feat. The 1,800-seat auditorium of the Opera House houses the very latest acoustic technology. Seeing a show here is a must.
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Hualin Temple
Tucked away in the city centre, Hualin Temple has a 1,400-year history, although the main temple dates from the early 1800s. It’s a fusion of Buddhism and Chinese symbolism and among 500 gold Buddhas. There’s also a statue of Marco Polo.
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Chen Family Academy
The 1984 ancestral compund, also known as the Chen Clan Temple, has nine halls, six courtyards and 19 buildings. It has survived a stint as a paint factory, and now acts as a folk art museum
This hilly 86-hectare city park with its bird-filled artificial lakes is worth strolling through to see the stone sculpture of the Five Rams, the city’s emblem and nickname.
Photos: Thinkstock
GUANGZHOU
ESSENTIAL
东方艺术 SYDNEY
从中国古代玉雕到优雅的日式帘子,新南威尔士美术馆“亚洲艺术藏品的古今对话”展览提供一 个十分难得的机会来欣赏多位著名中国艺术家如艾未未和阿先的作品。即日至10月4日。
ART OF THE EAST From ancient Chinese jade carvings to elegant Japanese screens, the Art Gallery of New South Wales’ Conversations through the Asian collections provides a unique chance to to see the contemporary works of world-renowned Chinese artists Ai Weiwei and Ah Xian, to name a few. Closing October 4. artgallery.nsw.gov.au
杜兰朵 普契尼的歌剧《杜兰朵》自1920年代起已开始吸引着 观众的目光,特别是歌唱家Pavarotti在1990年世界 杯足球赛上公开演唱了歌剧里的“Nessun Dorma” 之后,此歌剧更备受瞩目。剧情讲述一个超级勇敢的 追求者愿意为赢得野蛮公主的芳心而牺牲一切。歌剧 将于6月24日至8月28日在悉尼歌剧院上演。
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In your aria
Since the 1920s Puccini’s Turandot has been captivating audiences, especially when Pavarotti sang the opera’s ‘Nessun Dorma’ across a huge crowd at the 1990 FIFA World Cup. The story follows a brutal princess and impossibly brave suitor who will make any sacrifice to win her love, and will be showing at Sydney Opera House from June 24 – August 28. opera.org.au
广式饮茶 B A O W O W 悉尼人喜爱中国菜已不是秘密,其中包括广式饮茶。这里为您介绍几家城中之最,东方风味之选…… It’s no secret that Sydneysiders are obsessed with Chinese cuisine, and that includes yum cha. Here are the city’s best spots at which to brunch, oriental style...
Mr Wong’s
Spice temple
富丽宫
MR WONG 是中菜领域的新进餐馆,刚开始提 供广式饮茶时段。他家以扇贝和虾为材料的烧卖 是悉尼饺子界的佼佼者。不仅用料极为新鲜,还 有一流的包饺子技术。
SPICE TEMPLE餐厅的主厨ANDY EVANS把包子 提升到更高的境界,内陷是虾、咸菜,和XO酱 的大包、鸡肉和黑木耳锅贴,还有旭蟹黑豆米粉 卷。还需要我们继续说吗?
Mr Wong’s
Spice temple
富丽宫拥有大众认为中国餐馆应该拥有的一切, 白色桌布、粉红色餐巾及塑料筷子。身穿制服的 服务员推着手推车,里面必定会有餐厅的招牌点 心糯米鸡——以荷叶裹着糯米饭、腊肠、香菇 和鸡肉。
A new favourite among the Chinese cuisine scene, Mr Wong’s has just introduced yum-cha serving hours. The scallop and prawn shuma is the emperor of Sydney dumplings. The freshness of the produce and the skill that goes into folding it are exemplary.
Andy Evans, head chef at Spice Temple, sure knows how to take bao to new levels. There’s big steamed buns filled with prawns, pickles, and XO sauce, chicken and black fungi potstickers and rice noodle rolls with spanner crab and black bean. Need we say more?
Marigold
merivale.com.au/mrwong
rockpool.com/spicetemplesydney
marigold.com.au
At Marigold, tuxedoed waiters and waitresses dressed in tunics push the trolleys that are always stocked with the restaurants signature dish of sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves filled with Chinese sausage, mushroom and chicken.
SYDN EY
ASHFIELD
SYDNEY CBD
A vision of PROSPERITY
Sydney’s new icon NOW SELLING
The design of Crown Ashfield draws on oasis inspired living with innovative home solutions. Offering studios, one and two bedroom apartments, this new outlook on living goes to market in mid 2015.
An architectural masterpiece expressed as a series of soaring arcs, these luxury Sydney by Crown residences and their resort-style facilities tempt residents from the atrium to rooftop.
Project Gallery opening soon at Market Street, Sydney CBD
Located at 161 Clarence Street, Sydney CBD
EXPRESSIONS OF INTEREST NOW OPEN Anthony Falas 0419 866 677
FROM $910,000 Roy Marcellus 0406 680 116
NORTH SYDNEY
PARRAMATTA
Your LAST CHANCE
Panoramic COLLECTION
A small selection of apartments remain in this internationally awarded masterpiece, Skye by Crown. Own your piece of Sydney’s most sought-after rooftop pool and luxury amenities.
A final, limited edition at V by Crown is now selling, boasting unprecedented views across Parramatta and Sydney’s skyline plus world class facilities including a 25m pool, sauna and gym.
Located at 211-223 Pacific Highway, North Sydney
Project Gallery at Cnr of Marsden & Macquarie Sts, Parramatta
FROM $1,333,000 Roy Marcellus 0406 680 116
FROM $542,000 Anthony Falas 0419 866 677
Redefining the parameters
OF INNOVATION To visualise your perfect home in your distinct style, talk to us. To appreciate the tranquil and convenient lifestyle that can so easily be yours, visit our display suites, open 7 days. To see is to believe.
Residences
Suites
Leasing
Retail
1800 888 800 CROWNGROUP.COM.AU facebook.com/crowngroup
twitter.com/crown_group
instagram.com/crown_group
Dislcaimer: prices are correct as of 27th March 2015.
MELBOURNE
DON’T MISS 不容错过
F EEL AT HOME Park Hyatt Melbourne welcomes it’s first ‘Nin Hao’ program. Guests will benefit from Mandarin welcome letters, a 24-hour line to a Mandarin-speaking service and a Chinese tea and food menu. melbourne.park.hyatt.com
宾至如归 墨尔本柏悦酒店推出“您好”尊贵礼遇服务, 让来自中国的宾客倍感酒店的热情款待。 “您好”为客人准备了以中文撰写的欢迎信、 地图、资讯小册子、中文电视频道、24小时华 语客户服务以及中国茶和中文菜单。
冬日暖意
Winter warmers Stay toasty-warm by plonking yourself in front these pubs’ cosy fireplaces...
The Local Taphouse 38
黄金年代 中国明、清时期一些最珍稀的艺术作品将 于墨尔本维多利亚国家美术馆展出,展览名 为“中国的黄金年代(1736-1795)”。展品丰 富多样包括丝绸画、宫廷长袍以及镶嵌珍贵 宝石的艺术品。即日起至6月15日。
从约100款精酿啤酒中挑选出20款轮流在啤酒龙头 供应,这里是啤酒爱好者的天堂。 With 20 of around 100 craft beers rotating on the tap this is a pub that true beer connoisseurs will relish. thelocal.com.au
Golden years Some of China’s most rare and valuable works of art collected during the Ming and Qing dynasties are coming Down Under. The Golden Age of China: Qianlong Emperor (17361795) includes lavish displays of silk paintings, court robes and preciousstone inlayed objet d’art. At the National Gallery of Victoria till June 15. ngv.vic.gov.au
Prince Patrick Hotel 别让破旧的外墙欺骗了您,PRINCE PATRICK酒店是 周六晚上奢华时尚的好去处。您会发现这里的红白酒 单跟啤酒清单是一样的长。 Don’t let the crumbling exterior fool you, the Prince Patrick Hotel is quite the swanky hang-out on Saturday nights. Here you’ll find the wine and beer menu are equal in length.
princepatrickhotel.com
爵士乐节 2015墨尔本国际爵士乐节为冬季的城市带 来一丝暖意,一些国际知名的爵士乐灵魂 人物、把各种类型糅合的创新者、乐器演 奏家和一流歌手将应邀到音乐节做独家演 出。2015年5月28日至6月7日。
All that jazz The 2015 Melbourne International Jazz Festival is set to warm up the city in midwinter with an incredible program featuring some of the world’s most important and iconic jazz artists, genrebending innovators, instrumentalists and soulful singers. May 28 – June 7, melbournejazz.com
The Wesley Anne 前身是一间教堂的THE WESLEY ANNE酒吧真的是上 天所赐的礼物,您将会坐在拱形天花板下靠着火炉来品 尝手中的精酿啤酒。 Truly a godsend, this pub has been converted from a church where you’ll sit before a flame beneath vaulted ceilings with a craft beer in hand. wesleyanne.com.au
GUIDED TOUR
THINGS TO DO
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Trail blazers WHETHER YOU’RE LOOKING TO GET A TASTE OF TASMANIA’S FINE WINE OR ITS FRESH PRODUCE, LET CRADLE TO COAST TASTING TRAIL HELP YOU TO PUT TOGETHER AN ITINERARY. WE’VE PICKED OUT THE ISLAND-STATE’S NOT-TO-MISS HIGHLIGHTS
不管您是寻找塔斯马尼亚的美酒还是新鲜土产,让摇篮山至海岸美食之旅(CRADLE TO COAST TASTING TRAIL )为您定制精美的行程吧。我们精挑细选了岛上一些不能错过的地方
阿什格罗夫奶酪厂
鬼岩葡萄园
圣诞山覆盆子农场
安特卫普巧克力厂
ASHGROVE CHEESE
GHOST ROCK VINEYARD
CHRISTMAS HILL RASPBERRY FARM
HOUSE OF ANVERS
阿什格罗夫拥有各种传统的奶酪—— 蓝纹、哈瓦蒂、切达,不过让人值得到 访的原因是它出产的一系列味道很棒 的奶酪。非尝不可的有野生芥末奶酪 和各种胡椒口味的奶酪。
没有人能料到以前是平面设计师的 CATE和COLIN ARNOLD会栽种出 获奖的葡萄园,他们却做到了。他们 出产的红酒完美搭配酒窖所提供的 美食拼盘。
塔斯马尼亚的瑰宝,圣诞山覆盆子农 场是当地人的挚爱。它们菜单上几乎 所有的菜色都加入了覆盆子,比如雪 糕、蛋糕和松饼。欢迎参观4公顷的覆 盆子田。。
Ashgrove has all your classics – blue vein, havarti, cheddars – but it’s the surprisingly pleasant range of flavoured cheeses that make it worth visiting. You can’t leave without trying the wild wasabi cheese or bush pepper variety. ashgrovecheese.com.au
Nobody quite expected Cate and Colin Arnold, former print designers, to harvest an award-winning vineyard, but nonetheless they have. They produce reds and whites that are perfectly matched with gourmet platters at the cellar door. ghostrock.com.au
A signature Tassie gem, Christmas Hill Raspberry Farm is a local favourite. Its menu features raspberries in almost every option including, but not limited to, ice cream, cakes and muffins. Feel free to stroll through raspberry fields. raspberryfarmcafe.com
cradletocoasttastingtrail.com.au
巧克力爱好者必定不能错过这家巧 克力工厂。安特卫普巧克力工厂是塔 斯马尼亚的“查理工厂”。探索一系 列可追溯至阿茲特克时期的糖果纪念 品,还有进到工厂内参观这些精美甜 食的制作过程,随后到咖啡店品尝美 味的甜点。 Chocoholics can’t go pass this one. House of Anvers Chocolate factory is Tasmania’s own Wonka Factory. Explore memorabilia of the sweet treat dating back to the Aztecs. Retreat to the cafe for a taste of what’s on offer. anvers-chocolate.com.au
MGSM MBA in Top 50 The Economist - ‘Which MBA? 2014’ ranked MGSM MBA #49 globally, #5 in Asia.
“ I chose MGSM because of its strong international reputation and its emphasis on teaching the best global business practices.” MGSM Alumnus James Osmund, Director – Digital Products Fox International Channels
For more information visit mgsm.edu.au CRICOS PROVIDER 00002J
MGSM1551
SYDNEY . AUSTRALIA HONG KONG
48 HOURS
48 HOURS IN
Kunming Kunming has long been regarded as one of China’s most liveable cities. Constantina Pilatos discovers why... 昆明一直以来被誉为中国的最佳居住城市之一。 Constantina Pilatos为您探索其中的奥秘⋯⋯
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YOU’LL FIND EVERYTHING FROM FOOD TO BAGS AND JEWELLERY AT THE LOCAL MARKETS
48 HOURS
A VIBRANT DISPLAY OF BOUQUETS AT THE FLOWER AND BIRD MARKET
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DAY ONE 第一天 8am Start the day as the locals do with a stroll beside Green Lake. At dawn the riverside comes to life with early risers; they’re always friendly and ready to offer a ‘good morning nod’ as they venture out for a tai chi session before the day begins. Pop into one of the many cafes and tea houses that line the park for a morning fix of caffeine. Or head to Hefeng Pavilion, a well-decorated restaurant that faces the lake offering stunning views and a delicious menu to match.
often swarming with people, but words are never spoken above a whisper and the serenity of flowing ponds throughout makes it a peaceful haven in the middle of a chaotic city. To the rear, a hall has been added where a statue of Sakyamuni sits inside, a gift from Thailand’s king.
11am More than 1,000 years old, Yuangtong Temple is the largest Buddhist complex in Kunming, drawing both pilgrims and locals. The temple is
金碧春酒楼在昆明至今已有逾百年历史。酒 楼设在一家具有四合院特色的旧酒店内,外 墙为灰色的砖墙,内院还有个大卵石庭院。 酒楼提供正宗的滇菜,要品尝当地传统的味 道千万不能错过米线或汽锅鸡,还有甜点年 糕。
上午11时
5pm
已超过千年历史的圆通寺是昆明规模最为庞 大的佛教寺院,众多朝圣者和当地居民前往 朝拜。寺院内人来人往,可是却非常安静, 人们都是窃声低语,加上平静如镜的水池, 这里成为熙攘闹市中一处清静之所。特别 的是,殿内还摆放了泰王国赠送的释迦牟尼 佛像。
There are plenty of surprises in store for you at the Flower and Bird Market. You won’t just find gorgeous bouquets of flowers and an array of exotic birds here, though. Weave your way through all the narrow stalls and you’ll find hand-made jewellery and endless trinkets and knick-knacks, as well as the occasional finely made rugs and handmade clothing. A perfect place to pick up a souvenir for those back home.
上午8时 一大清早,跟当地人一样来到翠湖公园散步来 开始新的一天。拂晓时分,早起的人们已在 河畔活跃起来,开始练习太极拳,他们经常 行“早晨点头之礼”,十分友善。公园附近 有许多的咖啡馆以及茶室,信步到其中一家 来杯咖啡或是前往和风村翠湖亭,这家经精 心装潢的餐厅坐拥湖泊美景以及美味的菜式。
下午2时
2pm Jinbichun Restaurant has a history in Kunming that dates back more than 100 years. You’ll find it in an old hotel building, which is in the form of a Shiheyuan with grey, brick outer walls and a cobblestone courtyard. The menu is made up of quintessential Yunnan province dishes that are a true reflection of local cuisine. To get a real taste of the province opt for the rice noodles or steam pot chicken, followed by some rice cake for dessert.
下午5时 花鸟市场内惊喜连连。您不仅能找到精致动 人的花束及各种珍奇鸟类,穿过狭窄的小巷 您将会发现各式各样的特色商品如手工制的 珠宝首饰、饰品和小摆设,偶尔还能看到优 质精美的地毯及手工制作的服装。这里是购 买纪念品的天堂。
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section on Yunnan’s minorities, with displays of ethnic costumes and musical instruments. A real treasure for the history buffs.
下午2时 二十世纪50年代建成的云南省博物馆经全面 翻修后焕然一新。馆内的展览有滇池、史前 和早期文化等,不过亮点却是云南少数民族 的部分,展出各种民族服饰及乐器。这里是 历史爱好者的宝库。
6pm
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7pm Offering Yunnan specialities in a pleasant neo-colonial–style atmosphere,1910 La Gare du Sud is now a favourite with both expats and tourists. While it may not be a local’s daily go-to, for tourists it’s the perfect balance of upscale food in a picturesque setting. Hidden down an alley off Chongshan Lu, south of Jinbi Lu, it can be hard to find, so call ahead for instructions on how to get there.
Dusk is best spent at Daguan Park. There is a three-storey Grand View Tower standing in the park. Built hundred of years ago, then rebuilt in 1883, the tower features two fivemetre long tablets where a couplet is written by famous Qing Dynasty poet called Sun Ranweng. Just before the 机食材,提供一系列地道的菜色,更出产一 dusk pulls over the city, jump on a 流的蔬菜和自家制豆腐。餐馆由家族经营, paddle board and drift along the lake 设有户外用餐区,环境轻松自在。提醒一下, as the skyline is illuminated with 食馆的服务员不会讲英语,不过餐馆内有英 bright pinks, purples and yellows. 文菜单提供。
下午6时 11am
DAY TWO 第二天
The entry fee at Dragon Gate, also known as Western Hill, may be equally as steep as the hundreds of steps it takes to reach the top, but the view is certainly an adequate reward. Overlooking Dianchi Lake, from about 300 metres above, this lookout offers the best views of the city. The scenic structure also doubles as a temple. You’ll come across hand-carved stone buddhas inside their own shrines on landings as you climb to the top. You’ll also cross paths with locals making the trek to pray and also to keep fit. Many of the Western Hill residents climb the mountain at least once a day.
9am
上午11时
Located on the ground-floor of a converted warehouse a couple of kilometres northwest of the city centre, Tu Shengshi Guan is a family-run place that uses strictly organic ingredients for its selection of favourite local dishes. The veggies and homemade tofu are outstanding, and the atmosphere relaxed; there’s also a pleasant outside area. A head’s up – there is no English spoken, but there is an English menu.
要进到有西山之称的龙门需支付昂贵的入场 费,可是那里的景色绝对是值回票价的。从 三百米的高空俯瞰滇池,把城市最美的景观 尽收眼底。这个观光圣地还是一个寺庙,登 山的过程中能发现在天然岩石上以手工精雕 细刻而成的佛像。沿途您还会看到当地人长 途跋涉地来到这里祈福,以及在这里锻炼身 体。许多西山的居民每天至少登山一次。
下午7时 拥有新殖民地风格的1910火车南站餐厅主打 滇菜,备受外籍人士和游客爱戴。虽然这里 并不是当地人每天会去的地方,可是对游客 而言是一处享受高端食物及优美风景的好地 方。餐厅位于金碧路以南,隐藏在崇善路旁 的一条小巷内,非常难找,最好预先致电到 餐厅向其询问前往的路线。
上午9时 距离市中心西北方向仅几公里路程的土生食 馆,开设于由仓库改造而成的底层。严选有
2pm Set inside a 1950s-era building, Yunnan’s provincial museum has been upgraded and its interior is sparkling throughout. There are exhibitions on Lake Dian, prehistoric and early cultures but the highlight is the
大观公园是黄昏时分的最佳去处。公园内设 有一个三层高的大观楼。建于一百多年前, 于1883年重建。楼内摆放一对长五米的长联, 为清代著名诗人孙髯翁所作。日落之前坐上 小船,在滇池悠然地欣赏被粉红色、紫色和 黄色晕染的天空。
7:30pm You can’t leave Kunming without experiencing a local theatre production. Dynamic Yunnan has become a must-do for visitors. The folk dance and song performance
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showcases the richness of Yunnan’s cultural diversity, incorporating real costumes and actual ways of life of the varying minorities that populate the province. The final number, Spirit of the Peacock, is the highlight of the show. Performed by a female dancer, you’ll find yourself transfixed by her delicate movements that reflect those of an actual peacock.
下午7时30分 离开昆明前一定要观赏一场当地制作的戏剧。 观赏大型原生态歌舞集《云南映象》已成为 游客的必备节目。民族歌舞充分展示了云南 的文化多样性、演员穿着真正的民族服饰, 歌舞中还体现了云南省内不同少数民族的现 实生活方式。尾部《雀之灵》是整个表演的 高潮,由女舞者扮演着孔雀,您会被她轻柔 的举手投足以及栩栩如生的演绎所震撼。u
ENTRANCE GATE AT YUANGTONG TEMPLE
Eat & sleep EAT 美食 Hefeng Pavilion 9 Cuihu South Road, Wuhua District Jinbichun Restaurant 5 Dahuajiao Lane, Dongshi Street +86 871 3513755 1910 La Gare du Sud 8 Houxin Jie +86 871 63169486 Tu Shengshi Guan District B, Jinding 1919, 15 Jindingshan Beilu +86 6542 0010 Tangchao Yipin 18 Wenlin Jie +86 871 5151518 Zhenxing Fandian Corner Baita Lu and Dongfeng Donglu +86 316 6221
SLEEP 住宿 Grand Park Kunming From $100 per night parkhotelgroup.com Intercontinental Kunming From $214 per night ihg.com/intercontinental EARLY RISERS STROLLING THROUGH THE PARK SURROUNDING THE CITY’S GREEN LAKE
Crowne Plaza Kunming City Centre From $151 per night ihg.com/crowneplaza
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VIEWPOINT 46
多姿多彩的南澳州 潘华 胡玫
澳洲在1851年发现金矿以后,许多中国 劳工远涉重洋来到澳洲,殖民者却规定每个 从悉尼港登陆的华人劳工必须缴纳10镑人头 税。当年这10镑对两手空空到澳洲来打工的 华人而言,无疑是笔巨款。 为了避税,他们不得不改从 南澳的阿德莱德港、曼宁基 以及罗勃登陆,随后步行穿 过400多公里的丛林和原野抵 达墨尔本。途中有不少华人 因长期饥饿、劳累和疾病倒在丛林里,在曼 宁基附近的田野里至今还保留了中国劳工沿 途取水的遗址“中国人井”。 莱特上校奉命负责勘查南澳的海岸线,发 现了阿德莱德地区的大面积沃野,于是选择 和规划了该殖民区的首府建城地址。后来这 个城市以英王威廉四世的皇后ADELAIDE的名 字命名,即是现在的南澳首府阿德莱德市。
“澳大利亚百分之六十的葡 萄酒产于南澳” 在芭萝莎谷数千公顷的土地上,溢满了葡 萄酒的醇香,人们把酿酒当做艺术来享受。世 界著名葡萄酒品牌奔富(PENFOLDS)和杰卡斯 (JACOB’S CREENK)的总部都在这里。到了 南澳,如果没有品尝芭萝莎谷的葡萄酒那就是 一大遗憾。(本文部分内容取自于由胡玫、方 腾在澳大利亚SBS国家民族广播电台编播制作 的系列节目《南方大陆—澳大利亚》。) ◆
Illustration: Anne Smith
南
澳州位于澳大利亚中南部,是 一个非常美丽、富饶、宁静、又 略带乡村气息的州。首府阿德 莱德地区原是土著KAURNA族 的居住地,他们祖祖辈辈生活在这里,把这 里称为红袋鼠(TARNDARNYA)。欧州殖 民者占据了这块土地后,南澳成为新南威尔 士殖民区一部分。1834年,英国议会通过了 《南澳大利亚法案》,允许其从新南威尔士分 离,成为独立的自治殖民区。和澳大利亚其 他殖民区不同的是,南澳从建立起就没有流 放犯,完全由自由移民组成。 1836年,两艘载着546名移民的海轮从英 国到达阿德莱德地区,确定这里作为移民据 点。这些新移民中有转业军官等各种人,但 大多数人是劳动群众,他们在威克菲尔德殖 民原则指导下开始建立垦殖实验区,大肆躯 逐当地土著人,迫使他们流离失所。
阿德莱德可以说是个非常年轻的城市,她 在农畜产品集散地的基础上逐步发展,建立了 加工工业。1853年墨累河通航后,阿德莱德开 始与其他州展开州际交易。20世纪40年代末, 由于邻近的米德尔巴克山脉铁矿和利克里克煤 矿的开采而发展起重工业,港口亦随之扩展。 阿德莱德以宗教开放、政治开明和市民 自由为宗旨,长期保持着一个清教城市的风 格。1970年起,州政府开始了“文化复兴” 政策,进行了一系列社会改革,将阿德莱德 发展成一个以文化艺术为中心的现代化城市。 今天的阿德莱德以其五彩缤纷的节日、美味的 葡萄酒、著名的艺术和体育竞赛著称,她的 自然及野生生态让人目不暇接。当你面对这片 被蜿蜒山脉、神秘沙漠以及独特岛屿点缀着 的浩瀚土地时,会发现那连绵的山峰、起伏 的山谷、葱郁的牧场、飘香的庄园、平静的 湖泊还有那延绵4,800公里的海滩会让你的天 堂之旅从这里开始飞翔。 作为一个著名的文化艺术之都,阿德莱 德的国际艺术节(WOMAD)集中体现了她 迷人的魅力。每两年一次的艺术节集中了世 界上最著名的传统和当代的音乐家和舞蹈 家,展示了他们最高超的艺术水平,领衔主 演了阿德莱德艺术节的主旋律。与此同步举 行的阿德莱德艺穗节则以其通俗化、大众化 和非传统化为主线,其内容包括音乐、舞蹈、 戏剧、喜剧、视觉艺术、电影、文学、酒吧 歌舞、街头表演、电子艺术等应有尽有。阿 德莱德艺穗节已经成为澳大利亚最大、世界 范围内仅次于爱丁堡艺术节的第二大艺术活 动。WOMAD国际艺术节和艺穗节通过不同 形式不同涵意的艺术活动共同构筑了阿德莱 德既高雅又通俗丰富的艺术盛宴。 当你漫游在南澳广阔秀丽的田野上时,你 似乎到处都可以闻到一阵阵扑面而来沁人心 扉的葡萄酒香。遍布南澳各地的葡萄酒庄 所生产的高质量葡萄酒享誉全球,从芭萝 莎(BAROSSA)的西拉子、嘉利谷(CLARE VALLEY)的雷司令,到库纳瓦拉(COONAWARRA)的各种顶级红酒,都会让你有一种 未尝先醉的感觉。澳大利亚百分之六十的葡 萄酒产于南澳,而南澳最有名的酿酒区是芭 萝莎谷(BAROSSA VALLEY)。
We welcome 80 million passengers every year.
澳大利亚 伊甸园 奥费斯岛度假酒店的个人专属服务 让宾客拥有独一无二的住宿体验, Constantina Pilatos写道
A u s t r a l ia n idyll It’s the personal touch that makes a stay on Orpheus Island such a memorable experience, discovers Constantina Pilatos Photography James Walshe Photography
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n Australia the definition of ‘winter escape’ means something a little different to the rest of the world. Rather than retreating to a wooden cabin nestled in a snow-covered forest, Aussies spend the cooler months jet-setting to isles off the country’s north-eastern coast for a tropical getaway. And this winter there is one island locals can’t wait to visit: Orpheus Island. The only way to Orpheus is via helicopter, and it’s the best way to start your trip. Flying out of Cairns, the hour-and-a-half ride is Orpheus’ way of singing its own praises before you even reach the resort. The waters below reflect every type of fluorescent blue imaginable and are so clear you’ll easily spot sting rays and turtles swimming about.
澳
大利亚对“逃 能体会奥费斯的美好。俯 离冬季”的定 瞰一望无际的海洋,水质 义 有 别 于 其 它 清澈无比,很容易便看到 的国家。澳大利亚人在比 魟鱼和海龟的身影。 较寒冷的月份会去到东北 奥费斯岛的总经理 部沿海地区的热带度假胜 Renaul Crabb在您到达 地,而不是退隐到披着白 后便会迎上来,友善的欢 雪的森林里的木屋。今年 迎 您 的 到 来 , 并 且 说 道 的冬季有一个岛屿是所有 “欢迎来到我们的家”。可 当地人都想要到访的—— 能您会感到有点诧异,有 奥 费 斯 岛 ( O r p h e u s 人把岛屿称为他的家,可 Island)。 是只要您在这里待上几天 到达奥费斯岛唯一的 便能感觉到一份熟悉感以 方法是搭乘直升机。从汤 及亲切感。奥费斯岛最大 斯维尔(Townsville)或 的特点就是私密。岛屿每 凯恩斯(Carins)出发, 次只能招待最多28位宾 在30-45分钟的航程中便 客,确保高度的宁静和隐
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Take to the water CATAMARANS AND KAYAKS ARE AVAILABLE FOR YOUR AQUATIC PLEASURE
逸,让您感觉整个地方只 属于您一个人的。 负责管理居住在岛屿 上30名员工的Ranaul说 道,“我们很幸运能把这 里称为自己的家。更幸运 的是我们能与来自世界各 地的人们分享。每当我们 要跟宾客道别,看着他 们坐上直升机便会有种依 依不舍的感觉。他们不想 离开,我们也不想他们离 开。这挺有趣的。他们不 仅是我们的客人,还是我 们的朋友。”服务生也非 常友善,在您还没有介绍 自己之前他们已经知道您 的名字。这里没有“先生
或女士”,全是以名字来 互相称呼。奥费斯是澳大 利亚典型的悠闲却奢华的 代表。 酒店的房间十分宽 敞,带有海滩、室内室外 相融风格。最近经过翻新 的套房中最豪华的是南部 套房(South Suites), 从房间内的双折门出去便 是拥有无敌海景的户外休 闲区。浴室后方的角落是 一个户外的位置,摆放了 一个石制浴缸供客人享受 户外泡澡的乐趣。整个住 宿环境都给人一种贴近大 自然的感觉,不过也添置 了一些现代设备如两台电
3 things to do Diving and snorkelling
Dinghy adventure
外堡礁的深水处是一个天然的水族 馆,在那里跟海龟、蝠鲼、公牛魟和 礁鲨一起潜水或浮潜。
开着您的机动小艇去发掘附近的一 些海湾以及珊瑚礁,带上野餐篮, 在完全私密幽静的环境中享受厨师 为您精心制作的美食。
Dive and snorkel alongside green turtles, manta rays, bull rays and reef sharks in the natural aquarium that is the deep outer reef.
Take the helm of your very own motorised dinghy and discover the fringing bays and reefs. Enjoy a chef-prepared gourmet picnic hamper in absolute seclusion.
Research station 奥费斯岛研究站位于先锋湾 (Pioneer Bay),您在这里能找到 一系列的研究设施,以及与活生生 的珊瑚礁亲密接触。
Located on Pioneer Bay is the Orpheus Island Research Station. You will be introduced to the research facilities and the live reef touch tanks for an up-close-andpersonal experience.
Upon arrival the island’s general manager, Ranaul Crabb, greets you with a friendly, “Welcome to our home.” It may seem unfathomable that someone could be so lucky to call this oasis home, but give it a few days and you’ll also feel like you’ve known the place your whole life. The thing about Orpheus is, it’s intimate. No more than 28 guests are catered for on the island at any one time, ensuring serenity and seclusion, making you feel like you have the whole place to yourself. “We’re quite blessed to call this place home,” says Ranaul of the group of 30 hotel staff that reside on the island. “It’s even better that we get to share it with people from all around the world. It’s funny because when it’s time to say goodbye to guests and see them off on the chopper, we often find they go missing. They don’t want to leave and we don’t want them to leave. They’re not just guests to us; they’re our friends who have come to visit.” Staff are friendly and introductions are done on a first name basis. There is no ‘Mr. and Mrs.’ here. Orpheus represents that quintessential laid-back luxury that Australia does so well. The rooms are big and spacious, and incorporate a beachy, indoor-outdoor theme. Recently renovated, the South Suites – the resort’s top offering – have bi-fold doors that open the front wall of the living room to reveal an outdoor lounge with ocean views. There’s also an outdoor stone bath nestled in the back
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“环绕着奥费斯岛的 是一些极其纯净的 海湾和珊瑚礁”
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Treasure island
Orpheus Island is one of Australia’s true hidden gems. With peak season nearing, land a reservation early. Rooms start from $1,200 (for two, including meals). orpheus.com.au
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TASTE OF ISLAND LIFE Arie Prabowo, head chef, has been on the island for almost four years. “Orpheus is like my baby,” says Arie. “It’s the first job where I’ve been promoted to head chef, so I’ve grown with it and it has taught me a lot.” Arie’s dishes are a fusion of influences from Indonesia, his
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corner of your bathroom. While there is an all-natural feel to the accommodation, your mod-cons are still included with two flat-screen televisions and a Nespresso machine for those of us who, even on a holiday, can’t kick the caffeine habit. Breaking down the formal barriers of staying at a luxury hotel, none of the add-ons come at a cost. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are included in the room price; whatever you pull from the mini bar isn’t added to a bill at the end of your stay; and you’re welcome to help yourself to unlimited beer, wine and snacks from the poolside bar, just as you would at home – that is, if you happen to have a poolside bar and unlimited supply at home. Everything at the resort is for your own use. If you’re up for a day adventure, head out on a motorised dinghy to a nearby private beach, or spend the morning paddle boarding. If fishing is more your bag, the Orpheus team will load the boat with rods and bait and take you out for the day in hopes of bringing back some Coral Trout for dinner, which the chef will happily cook up for you. While the resort isn’t sold on its food, it certainly could be.
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视以及一部Nespresso咖 是我的婴儿似的,”Arie 啡机,为我们这种就算在 说,“这是我第一份被升 度假也离不开咖啡的人所 职为主厨的工作,所以我 预备的。 跟它一起成长,当中也学 有别于其它豪华酒店 会了很多东西。”Arie所 的惯例,这里所有的一切 烹调的是混合菜,菜色带 都 不 用 额 外 缴 费 , 早 午 有他的家乡印尼风味,融 晚三餐已经包含在住宿费 合以前在阿德莱德跟随厨 里;客房内的零食和饮料 师Klaus Lemm所学的法 也可以随意吃喝,不会另 式厨艺。结果是?成为奥 外收费;游泳池旁边有免 费斯岛独一无二的味道。 费的啤酒、葡萄酒和小食 “我们在岛上有36只母 供享用,住在这里就像住 鸡为我们的早餐供应新鲜 在自己的家里一样。 的鸡蛋,还有一块大面 酒店里的一切都是为 积的田园种植香草及蔬 您而预备,供您享用的。 菜,”Arie说道,“我们 如果您想出去探险一下, 什么都自家种植,从青柠 可以搭乘电动小艇前往附 到西红柿到橄榄。我们甚 近其中一个私人海滩,或 至会为您烹调您从海里所 是早上来划一下船。如 钓到的鱼。我们的弹性非 果您比较喜欢钓鱼,奥费 常大。” 斯的团队会为您预备好船 每道菜都因应食客的 只、鱼杆和诱饵,带领您 味蕾作调整。在到达岛屿 出海,希望能捕获一些珊 之前,我们会邀请您填写 瑚鳟鱼在晚餐享用,厨师 一份叫做“Your stay”的 将很乐意为您烹调。 问卷,在上面您可以表 明自己喜欢和不喜欢的 Taste of island life 一切。您可以写的十分具 餐厅主厨Arie Prabowo 体,比如讨厌罗勒,那么 在这小岛上已经将近四年 罗勒便不会出现在您的任 的时间。“奥费斯就好像 何一道菜里。
In full colour GREENS AND BLUES ARE THE ORDER OF THE DAY — EVERY DAY — ON ORPHEUS ISLAND
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Daytime stunner TAKE A DAY TRIP TO HINCHINBROOK ISLAND, AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST ISLAND NATIONAL PARK
“我想这是我喜欢这 份工作的原因,挑战不 断。为每一位顾客定制 专属的菜单,每一个晚上 都是如此的有趣,”Arie 说,“客人也一样。我记 得有一位客人用餐后跟我 说,‘Arie这顿饭很棒, 可是明天我就是想要吃牛 排。’因此,原来的四道 菜晚餐变成了牛排,客人 对此感到很满意。这一切 都是以满足客人为目标。 还有一次我跟其中一位客 人的妈妈进行制作法式炖 蛋比赛,因为这位客人说 他妈妈制作的法式炖蛋是 最好吃的。所以第二天的 甜点全部变成了法式炖 蛋。”客人说十年间没有 遇到过能与他妈妈媲美的 炖蛋,吃完Arie制作的炖 蛋后,他说这炖蛋的水准 跟他妈妈的一样高。Arie
的厨艺就是如此精湛。 想要更私密的用餐体 验有“Dining with the Tides”,在星光照耀, 烛光相映的码头享用晚 餐——码头最近耗资200 万进行升级改造,并有 专人把晚餐端给您们。如 果您想亲身参与制作过 程,可以参加Arie举办的 Master Chef顶级厨师 班,在海滩的火旁学习如 何制作西班牙海鲜饭。 探索岛屿 精彩的体验不仅来自厨 房。环绕着奥费斯岛的 是一些极其纯净的海湾和 珊瑚礁。绝对值得前往先 锋湾(Pioneer Bay)一 趟,在那边有个巨型的 贝类养殖场,里面有超过 300只贝类软体动物,每 只都超过200公斤重。
“ T H E WAT E R S S U R R O U N D I N G ORPHEUS PROVIDE SOME OF T H E M O S T P R I S T I N E B AY S AND REEFS YOU’LL FIND”
country of birth, and fusion techniques that he picked up during his formative years under the tutelage of chef Cheong Liew, dubbed the father of fusion, in Adelaide. The result? A true taste of the island – quite literally. “We have 36 hens on the island that we collect eggs from to use for breakfast, and also a huge herb and garden vegetable patch,” says Arie. “We grow everything from limes to tomatoes to olives. We’ll even cook a fish you’ve caught from a day out on the water. We’re super flexible.” Each meal cooked for a guest is refined to their flavour palate. Before arriving on the island you’re asked to fill out a ‘Your stay’ form and list your likes and dislikes, and allergies. You can be as specific as saying you hate basil, and not a hint of basil will appear in any of your meals. “I think that’s what I love most about my job, is that it is always challenging. Constructing an individual menu for each guest every single night keeps it interesting,” says Arie. “And so do the people. I remember one guest turned to me after the meal and said, ‘Arie, this was amazing, but tomorrow night I really just feel like a steak.’ So instead of a four-course degustation he got a steak and was happy with that. It’s about giving people what they want. For a more intimate setting there’s Dining with the Tides. A candlelit table for two is set up on the jetty, which has recently had a $2 million upgrade. If you’re after something more hands-on, try Arie’s Master Chef Class,
Culinary delights CHEF ARIE PABOWO’S DISHES ARE A KEY PART OF THE ORPHEUS ISLAND EXPERIENCE
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Setting scenes GUESTS ENJOY A SUNSET FROM THE ISLAND’S AMAZING INFINITY POOL
倘若您宁愿进行 陆上活动,可以前往 Gwandalan Day Spa 水疗所,它们使用以澳 大利亚土著植物而成的 LI’TYA产品,并糅合草 本、芳香以及接触疗法进 行各种护理。跟奥费斯岛 许多其它的体验一样,水 疗所会根据您个人的需求 而量身定制最适合您的理 疗。跟理疗师说明您希望
她专注的部分,挑选一款 您喜欢的香味,然后躺在 舒适的床上等待理疗师为 您进行专属于您的理疗。 在这里度过了一个周 末,吃尽各种美食以及探 索迷人的海湾;到访让人 身心皆放松的水疗所还有 浸泡在无边游泳池之中, 我们发现自己跟Ranaul 之前所提及的宾客一样: 不想离开这里。◆
where you’ll learn to make paella over an open fire on the beach.
ADVENTURE ISLAND Experiences aren’t limited to the kitchen. The waters surrounding Orpheus provide some of the most pristine bays and reefs you’ll find. It’s worth venturing out to Pioneer Bay to explore a giant clam nursery populated with 300 molluscs each weighing up to 200kg each. Hinchinbrook Island, Australia’s largest island National Park, is just a 30-minute chopper ride away. You can also tour the glorious channel between Hinchinbrook and Cardwell Coast by boat charter. Embark on a guided walk along rainforest-clad trails to the famous Zoe and Mulligan waterfalls or try saltwater crocodile spotting in the island’s waterways. For those who’d rather keep their feet on land there’s the Gwandalan Day Spa. Treatments feature LI’TYA products, which are based on Indigenous Australian plants and incorporate the principles of herbalism, aromatherapy and touch therapy. Like most things on Orpheus, your time in the spa is tailored to you. Simply tell the therapist the areas you’d like her to target, pick a scent you like and jump on the bed while the therapist picks a treatment that will best suit your needs. After a weekend of indulging in the finest food and filling your days with adventures at sea, long visits to the spa and a dip (or two) in the infinity pool, it’s fair to say you’ll find yourself - as Ranaul could have predicted from your arrival - not wanting to leave. ◆
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渝都 在中国甚至是世界上发展最为迅速的城市之一重庆市,为来自各国的旅 客提供各种丰富多彩的体验,谢琴带领我们探索其中的乐趣⋯⋯
Metropolis now One of China’s – and the world’s – fastest growing cities, Chongqing offers a bevy of wonders for the discerning traveller, as Qin Xie is glad to discover Photography Trent van der Jagt / Getty Images
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T
he heat is relentless. Not the humid, sticky heat of Chengdu. No. Thanks to the scorching sun and stillness of the air, this is a sort of dry, baking heat that doesn’t let up. Even in October. Instead, while the rest of the region is cooling with the autumn rain, the thermometer here hovers at 30ºC. We are in Chongqing – one of the Yangtze’s three furnace cities. The thing that really differentiates Chongqing from the rest of Southwest China isn’t necessarily the weather. Rather, thanks to its centrally controlled economic policies, Chongqing has been one of the fastest growing cities not just in the west of China, but also in the world. And that booming economy has been made more visible by the staggering number of skyscrapers in the city’s locale. Despite Chongqing’s reputation as a sexy, modern city, we start our exploration at west bank’s Ciqikou or ‘Little Chongqing’. Known as the “ancient town in a modern city,” Ciqikou is a hillside millennial metropolis absorbed into Chongqing’s suburbs by the encapsulating high rises. We walk up from the Yangtze river bank, through the ancient town’s central street. It’s not a weekend, but the hilly stone-paved paths are bustling with cosmopolitan visitors. The tiny uphill passage is lined with rows of aged wood and mud-brick constructions of no more than two
热
气逼人。这并不是 成都那种潮湿、黏 腻的热,而是烈日 炎炎加上静止的空气让整个环境 像烤箱一样的干热。现在已经是十 月份了,其他的省份都下起秋天的 凉雨,这里还是维持在摄氏30度 的高温。 我们身在重庆,一个被两江 ——长江及嘉陵江分割为三部分的 城市。 不过并不只是气候把重庆跟四 川的其他城市分别出来,还有她 是经济、金融的中心,也是中国 西部其中一个发展最迅速的城市。 城市里惊人的摩天大楼数量把蓬 勃发展的经济视觉化。 虽然重庆享有“充满魅力的现 代都市”美誉,可是我们还是选择 从位于西边的磁器口开始探索。这 里又被称为“小重庆”。以“现代 城市里的古镇”闻名,依山而建的 磁器口是个千年古镇,可是附近高 楼林立,此镇也已经融入了重庆大 都市之中,成为都市的一部分。
我们从长江江畔走上去,到古 镇的主街上。我们到访的时候并 不是周末,却已经是人山人海,充 斥着来自大都市的游客。沿着上 山狭窄的石径两旁有一排不超过 两层高,用木材及泥砖建成的老 房子。再往旁边走就是一些更狭 窄的小径,那边是居民的房子。 而在他们后面一点,信步便能到 达21世纪的大桥。 不过重庆是一个新旧并列的城 市。比如建于1954年,拥有4,200 个座位,仿照北京天坛而建的人 民大礼堂的对面就是外观现代摩 登的三峡博物馆;还有于1940年 代落成的解放碑也被众多光鲜明 亮、售卖进口奢侈商品的旗舰店 环绕着。 磁器口跟城市里的其他地方一 样商业化。以前以生产瓷器而闻 名,今天演变成商店林立、汇聚 许多咖啡厅以及贩卖手工食品餐 厅的地方。各式各样的小吃包括 塞满烩菠菜、煮鸡蛋或是炒牛肉 片的生煎包,还能在巨大的瓷碗里
Boom town
CHONGQING
CHONGQING IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S FASTEST GROWING CITIES
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storeys. Shooting off to the side are even narrower streets winding up or downhill to obscured family homes. Behind them, within walking distance, are 21st century flyovers. But then, Chongqing is full of such juxtapositions. Like the People’s Auditorium, the 4,200-seater theatre built in 1954 and modelled on the Temple of Heaven in Beijing, which faces the contemporary facade of the Three Gorges Museum. Or the People’s Liberation Monument, a 1940s war memorial column, which is surrounded by the flashing lights of flagship stores selling imported luxury goods.
LITTLE CHONGQING Like the rest of the city, Ciqikou is highly commercialised. When it was a town in its own right, it was known for the production of porcelain, or Ci Qi. Today, under the slanted roof of decorative tiles, are shops, cafes and restaurants selling artisanal food products. Pan-fried breads of floury white, golden yellow and crispy shredded nests line many a stall, filled with braised spinach, hard-boiled eggs and even stir-fried beef fillet. Enormous porcelain bowls are topped with Sichuan peppercorns, green peppercorns, dried chillies, chopped fresh chillies, chilli flake oil and other classic Chongqing flavours. At one stall, icy cups of sour plum juice stop our feet. It sounds like a real thirst-quencher, but new season sugar canes just came to market and so we opt for a cool glass fresh from the press. Just-peeled canes, almost as thick as bamboos and shaved of their purple-black skin, are fed through the hand-cranked press, from which a small,
找到四川胡椒、绿花椒、干辣椒、 切碎的新鲜辣椒、辣椒油以及其 他重庆的地道口味。 我们在一家售卖酸梅汤的店前 停下来。它看起来真的很能解渴, 可是新季刚到的甘蔗更加吸引我 们,所以便点了一杯冰凉的鲜榨 甘蔗汁。刚刚去掉紫黑色外皮、几 乎跟竹子一样粗的甘蔗,经过榨汁 机流出有点混浊的汁液。喝下去 立刻感受到阵阵凉意,味道带有一 点甜味,还有细腻的水果香味。我 们意犹未尽,所以在启程前喝了 第二杯。 喝完后我们继续一步一步往上 走,突然听到在人群后有人带着节 奏地高喊着。 “先生女士们,请过来这边 看看。” 身穿白色厨师长服的男人轻拍 着装满面糊的漏勺,面糊被推按 穿过笊篱的孔掉进盛载着开水的 大锅里。片刻之后,他用笊篱把粗 粗的玻璃面条捞出来。而且到现 在为止他都没有停止过叫卖。 “我们的酸辣粉十分美味。又酸 又辣,不仅闻起来很香,也非常 好吃。保证一定好吃!进来看看, 您就会想要坐下来一碗。” 我们随着人潮往前走,很快便
发现甘蔗汁和酸辣粉都不是磁器口 的重头戏。 这条陡峭的行人道走到一半的 时候突然变得平坦,群众都聚集 在这里。让他们止住脚步的是磁 器口很有名的陈麻花,将两三股 条状的面团拧在一起,炸至金黄 色的小吃。生意相当的不错,至少 有六家麻花店比邻而居,每一家 都人头涌涌。 一个热情主动的年轻售卖员向 我们说道,“过来尝尝我们家的 麻花,这是地道的风味小吃,” 然后端上试吃品给我们,“我们 是家老店,制作正宗的麻花。” 我们停了下来试吃了一块。 香脆的金黄色扭条被一层薄薄的 冰糖裹着,为其脆饼的质感增加了 淡淡的甜味。试过之后让人欲罢 不能,所以我们又尝试了四川胡 椒味、蜜糖味以及椒盐味的麻花。 这个原来挺普通的小吃变得五花 八门。 在品尝过陈麻花的各种美味 小吃后,我们来到重庆著名的地标 朝天门,这里是嘉陵江汇入长江的 交界处,把重庆主城分为三大块。 沿途我们经过洪崖洞,依山就 势,沿江而建,楼体外观为悬崖 峭壁上的中式吊脚楼群,这里充
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steady stream of slightly cloudy juice starts to gush from a sprout into our cups. It’s instantly refreshing but then a subtle sweetness emerges, followed by a delicate fruit. Our taste buds are begging for more, so we have to take a second glass before moving on. Further up the steps, we hear someone chanting to a rhythmic thud behind a crowd. “Ladies and gentleman, come in and have a look,” the voice beckons. Dressed in long chef’s 满着各式各样的商店与美食。重 whites, a man is patting a colander full of dense batter and 庆应该是少数城市能拥有城内悬 pressing it through the holes and straight into a large pot 崖,被两条河流分开而成。两岸 of boiling water from which, moments later, he ladles out 之分以前更加分明,重庆曾经是依 thick glass noodles with a wire-mesh sieve. All this time, his “两江岸而建的城市”,唯一能到 sales pitch continues without missing a beat. “Our sour and 达对岸的方法就是乘船或坐缆车。 spicy glass noodles are delicious. It’s sour, it’s spicy, it smells 而现今已经建成25条纵横交错的 delicious and it tastes amazing. That’s a promise. Come in 大桥跨越河流,把三地连起来。缆 and have a look, you’ll want to sit down for a bowl.” 车仍然运作,不过只是作为一个 We press on up with the slow, migrating crowd – cane 旅游景点而已。 juice and glass noodles are certainly not the highlight of 在朝天门,我们沿着海港而行。 Ciqikou, as we soon discover. About halfway up the steep 位于重庆半岛顶端的是乘船游览 walkway the path flattens, allowing a crowd to gather. 三峡的位置。在两江的交汇处能一 Stopping their footsteps is Ciqikou’s famous Cheng Family 览城市的全景。在右面跨过了长 Ma Hua, a crunchy fried bread shaped into interlinking 江是一栋栋高尚住宅、银行塔和 twists. Business is obviously good – at least six adjoining 豪华酒店;至于左面是被嘉陵河分 stalls are offering the snack and each has its own ever隔开的一边,那里有富有未来主义 replenishing crowd. “Come and try some Ma Hua, a local 的重庆大剧院,而且还有更多高 speciality,” a keen, young salesman calls out to us, offering 楼大厦即将建成。各种别致的建 a sample. “It’s an old stall. Authentic local flavours.” 筑合并起来变成一个相当令人惊叹
“重庆是一个新旧 并列的城市” 的景观。 到重庆一定要吃上当地著名的 火锅才不枉此行。火锅曾经是河 边桥头一般卖劳力的工人的膳食, 现在演变成四川的名菜。我们来 到一家位于长滨路附近的老火锅 店体验正宗的味道。 餐厅设置十分简朴,以三面 简陋的墙壁和一个瓦片屋顶搭成, 大部分的桌椅设置在室外。方形 的桌子旁边放了一张张木制长凳, 桌上的中间摆放着熏黑的铁锅,里 面放置了遇热融化的香料块。香 料块上能看见的材料有干辣椒、 花椒和生姜,不过在这个秘方中 当然还有其他材料混合在一起。显 然这将是一场美味的体验。而且 是辣的。 服务员一看便知道我们是第一 次尝试此菜,便问道,“您想要
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Touring the temple THE PEOPLE’S AUDITORIUM IN CHONGQING WAS BUILT IN 1954 AND SEATS 4,200 PEOPLE
HOT TO POT No visit to Chongqing would be complete without sampling the city’s hot pot, its famous culinary invention. Once the simple supper of river boat workers, it’s now a gourmet staple. We head to Jiang An, one of the old hot-pot restaurants nestled under the nearby Changbin Road and backing out onto the river, for the authentic experience. With three bare walls and a staggered, tiled roof, most of the tables at this simple, undressed restaurant are outside. Wooden benches surround square tables where, at the centre and taking pride of place, is a blackened wok holding a ready-to-melt spice block. Dried chilli, Sichuan peppercorns and ginger are immediately visible in the still-solid oil but the rest of the secret blend is hidden in its dense mass. It’s clearly going to be a flavoursome experience. And a spicy one. Seeing that we were obviously first timers, the waitress asks: “Do you want really hot or just a little bit hot?” With the heat of the city quite enough for us, we opt for the mild. The waitress lights the gas hob below with a swift flare and soon the spice block starts to melt, gradually lowering the nine-hole divider that’s characteristic of Chongqing hot pots. Moments later, she brings over another pot of bubbling liquid, a hot chilli stock, and pours it over the top of the liquefying spice. Now we have our heat. As the hot pot holds just one flavour, the divider serves only as a means to separate the different ingredients once the cooking starts. In the early days of the hot pot, it was
Pot shot RENOWNED IN THE REGION, YOU CAN ALWAYS BE SURE TO FIND SCRUMPTIOUS HOT POT IN CHONGQING
CHONGQING
We stop to try one. The crumbly, golden twist has a light coating of rock sugar, adding a subtle sweetness to its biscotti texture. It’s moreish, so we also try a Sichuan peppercorn flavoured one, and a honey one, and a salt-and-pepper one. This once rather plain little treat has now become a variety box of its own. After sampling the delights at Cheng Family Ma Hua, we head to Chongqing’s famous landmark, Chao Tian Men, where Jialing River merges into the Yangtze, splitting the city into three. We pass Hong Yan Dong along the way, a cliff-face cave surrounded by faux-imperial buildings populated with shops and eateries. Chongqing is perhaps one of only a handful of cities that can boast of inner-city cliffs, cut by the torrent of the two rivers. The division was once much more clear cut – Chongqing was the “city on the banks of two rivers” as the only way to reach the other side was by boat or cable car. Now, there are more than 25 bridges criss-crossing the rivers, connecting each third of this thriving city. The cable car continues to run, but only as a tourist attraction. At Chao Tian Men, we walk along the harbour. Lying at the tip of the Chongqing peninsula, it’s the departure point for the Three Gorges cruise boats. Facing the dovetail of the two rivers, you get a panoramic view of the city. To the right, across the Yangtze, block after block of lofty residential buildings flank banking towers and luxury hotels. To the left, separated by the Jialing River, is the futuristic form of the Chongqing Grand Theatre, with more competing high rises. It’s quite a breathtaking landscape of chic construction.
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Best-laid spans THE DONGSHUIMEN BRIDGE IS ONE OF 25 BRIDGES THAT CONNECT EACH THIRD OF THE CITY OF CHONGQING
also how strangers shared one pot. According to a man on the next table, “In those days, if you were clever, you could fish around under the grill for... additional ingredients.” And by that, he meant the lost morsels of his neighbour. What makes the flavour “old Chongqing”, as many hot pot restaurants are now wont to proclaim, are in fact the Sichuan peppercorns. A Chongqing hot pot should always be more numbing than spicy. With the scarlet heads of chillies bobbing up and down in the bubbling wok, we’re not so sure it’s going to be anything less than an assault course. But, as it turns out, the hot pot isn’t as tongueobliterating as it looks. Of course it’s numbing, but only mildly so. Hitting us with more force is the concentration and intensity of the Sichuan peppercorns’ subtle aromatics. The experience is really one of a kind. We finish eating long after sunset but, in Chongqing, night-time is when the real magic begins. After a winding drive up the South Mountain on the other side of the Yangtze, we get to the Yi Ke Shu viewing platform. At the top, Chongqing’s shimmering city lights finally reveal themselves in full; flashing, pulsing and cutting through the dark. The Yangtze, bathing in this glow, looks almost alive. A soft “wow” escapes our lips. Next to us, a Chongqinger visiting with friends laughs at our touristy outburst. “This is nothing,” he tells us. “During Golden Week and the Spring Festival, Chongqing’s nightscape is lit up like the day.” Studding and bejewelling the mountains and divided by the torrent of rivers, it’s little wonder Chonqging’s other moniker is ‘Hong Kong of the west’. ◆
“到重庆一定要吃上当地著 名的火锅才不枉此行” 微辣还是大辣?” 炎热的天气让我们选择了微辣。 服务员把炉头点燃,香料块便慢 慢融化,分布在9个格子之中,锅 里面有9个格子是正宗重庆火锅 的特色。片刻之后,服务员端来 一盘热辣汤往锅里浇,汤跟已融 化的香料油混在一起,热气上腾, 我们也跟着热血沸腾起来。 整个锅的味道是一样的,分开 9格是为了摆放不同的食材。早期 吃火锅是跟陌生人共用一锅,每 人用一个格子的。 根据旁边一桌的客人,“那时 候,如果您够聪明,还可以找一 下看有没有……加料。”他的意思 是指别人格子里留下的剩菜。 很多餐厅都标榜“老重庆”风 味,这种独特的味道其实是来自 四川胡椒籽。正宗的重庆火锅一 定是麻多于辣。 辣椒在沸腾的铁锅里上下翻腾,
不过原来吃下去没有看上去的恐 怖。麻还是有的,不过只是一点 点而已。让我们更加受不了的是 四川胡椒籽扑鼻而来浓烈的香味, 这个味道真的是非常特别。 我们在酒足饭饱时夜幕已经低 垂,可是重庆的晚上却仍然灯火 通明,人头攒动,热闹非常。我 们在长江的另一边开车来到南山一 棵树观景台。从观景台俯瞰五光 十色的重庆市,灯光在黑夜里闪 烁跳动,长江在灯光辉映下充满 活力。 一声“哇”轻轻地从我们的嘴 唇溜出。在我们旁边与朋友同行 的重庆人讥笑着我们这些游客看 到夜景之后的反应。 他跟我们说,“这不算得是什 么。每逢黄金周与春节,重庆的夜 景仿如日间般明亮。” 怪不得重庆的另外一个绰号 是“西边的香港”。◆
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南方之星
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阿德莱德汇聚各种新兴的酒吧、咖啡馆与餐厅,成为澳大利亚既崭 新又闪亮的乐园,Trent van der Jagt写道
A surge of new small bars, cafes and eateries has made Adelaide Australia’s shiny new playground, discovers Trent van der Jagt Photography Trent van der Jagt
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Street food STREET ADL MIGHT BE KNOWN FOR ITS BAR, BUT ITS SIMPLE AUSSIE EATS ARE WHAT MAKE YOU STICK AROUND
ome call Adelaide the 15-minute city – it takes only 15 minutes to reach the beach, the Mount Lofty Ranges or the wineries of the Adelaide Hills. Others call it the ‘City of Churches’, because of its disproportionately huge number of churches commanding every second corner. It’s a reminder that Adelaide was founded by free settlers with strong tradition, even if today it’s the cafes and boutique bars on every other corner that draw the true disciples. There’s something strangely European about walking along the North Terrace of Adelaide, the city’s cultural hub. Cobbled streets lead down alleyways to boulevard housing and sturdy stone buildings that were most likely once something more dignified but are now, well, more cafes and bars. But these relics of the past aren’t being muscled out just yet; rather, the city’s past is being embraced. Named after a forgotten queen of King William IV, the city of Adelaide started its life in 1836 a little differently to the rest of Australia’s other major cities. Settled only by free people, Adelaide was built on the wealth of its populace rather than British Government handouts. A wheat boom in the late 1800s brought with it some of the city’s most impressively ornate sandstone buildings,
有
些人称阿德 莱德为“15 分 钟 的 城 市”,意思是到许多地 方都只需15分钟的路 程,不管是海滩、洛福 迪山脉(Mount Lofty Ranges)还是阿德莱德 山(Adelaide Hills)也 是如此。有时阿德莱德也 被称为“教堂之城”,在 这里教堂遍布各处,每隔 两条街就能看到一座,充 分展示了阿德莱德一开始 是由各国的自由殖民所建 立的背景,他们都带着自 家浓烈的传统文化来到此 地。时至今日,在随处可 见的咖啡厅以及精品酒吧 内也能看见虔诚的信徒。 北大街(North Terrace)承载着阿德莱 德的历史,是这座城市的 文化枢纽。这条青翠葱茏 的林荫大道由鹅卵石铺 成,两旁竖立着坚固的石 建筑,感觉曾经是一处十 分庄严的地方,可是现在 多了咖啡厅和酒吧。虽然 随着时间变迁面貌有所变
化,不过这些历史文化遗 产并没有被淹没,反而成 为今天的阿德莱德重要的 一部分。 阿德莱德是以威廉四 世国王的妻子阿德莱德皇 后的名字而命名的,建于 1836年,她的起源有别 于其他澳大利亚的主要城 市,阿德莱德是由自由殖 民而非英国政府建立起来 的。19世纪后期小麦业 热潮兴起,随之而来的是 一座座华丽的砂岩建筑, 二战后城市发展更加迅 速,引来了来自意大利的 殖民,他们把咖啡文化也 一并带进这个城市。农场 很快被改建成教堂,整个 城市迅速发展成为一个国 际化大都市。阿德莱德屡 次蓬勃发展,同时也经历 过多次萧条。 虽然拥有丰富的历史 背景以及许多漂亮的文化 历史建筑,可是许多澳大 利亚人曾经视阿德莱德为 一个只是比乡村小镇繁华 一点点的地方。过去的5 年经过多项重大的公共工
“ T O D AY I T ’ S T H E CAFES AND BARS T H AT D R AW T H E TRUE DISCIPLES”
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“我们要融合阿德莱德的 文化,所以一切都跟本 地的食材有关”
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while rapid expansion post-WWII brought Italian migrants and, with them, a diversified cafe culture. Farms quickly became churches, which became towns, which bloomed into a cosmopolitan metropolis – one that has had as many booms as busts. Despite its rich history and beautifully maintained heritage buildings, many Australians once viewed Adelaide as little more than an overgrown country town, but over the last five years, after the introduction of some major public projects and relaxed licensing laws, the city has come into its own and has been swarmed by wine bars, restaurants and chefs looking to revive the city once again.
FOR THE FOOD LOVERS
Food heaven FROM EATERIES LIKE SEAN’S KITCHEN TO BARS LIKE 2KW, THERE ARE ALWAYS NEW THINGS TO TRY
Sometimes all the culture and history in the world – like the neatly lined South Australia Museum, State Library and Parliament House along the North Terrace – can’t pull you away from a good feed, something the lucky locals live for. Sean’s Kitchen, a New York-style brasserie facing some of the city’s most prized buildings, opened its doors in late 2014. Serving up fresh seafood and hearty meals for the soul, like South Australian lamb shoulder in liquorice gravy, award-winning chef Sean Connelly has found his home in the cultural hub of the city. “I’ve run restaurants all across Australia and have seen the cities grow around me. Adelaide has always been a bit of an underdog, but food and local produce has always been at its heart – and it doesn’t hurt being located on the city’s most beautiful strip,” says Connelly. Cured meats hang handsomely at one end of the restaurant, while the open-plan kitchen fills the space with the smell of mum’s kitchen. It’s a busy space full of life and energy. How could it not be when everyone has a local wine in hand and a plate of cured meat in front of them? One street over on bustling Rundle Street is Orana and Street ADL, a bar and highend restaurant combo. Orana serves up local ingredients with a twist on the second floor while Street ADL whips up quick Aussie eats and wine on the ground level. Orana, meaning ‘Welcome’ in Aboriginal dialects, is an intimate setting for less than 25 with every dish capturing and redefining the local ingredients, which are at its core. Chef and owner Jock Zonfrillo believes in getting the most out of his ingredients and highlighting the tastes and flavours of Australia’s native and indigenous surroundings. In a flash he has whipped out a plate topped with a smoke-filled glass dome. As he raises the
“每家餐厅、小酒吧, 甚至许多的咖啡厅藏酒 之丰富让人惊叹” 程以及放宽牌照条例后, 这个城市便重拾生机,酒 吧、餐厅、厨师们瞬间活 泼起来,为阿德莱德注入 活力和养分。 美食珍馔 世界上几乎所有蕴藏丰厚 文化历史的地区都离不 开美食,就好像历史建 筑林立的北大街,南澳 博物馆、州立图书馆以及 议会大厦整齐地并列着。 正对着这些文化历史建 筑的是Sean's Kitchen餐 厅,一家富有纽约风格的 酒馆餐厅,于2014年年 底开业。餐厅供应新鲜的 海产以及丰盛的美食如烤 南澳羊肩配甘草肉汁。 屡获殊荣的厨师Sean Connelly在城市的文化 中心点建立起属于自己 的餐厅。Connelly说, “我在全澳洲各地都经营 过餐厅,也见证了许多 城市的发展。阿德莱德的 发展一直以来都是比较弱 的,可是食物以及本地土 产一直是她的主要特色。 而且我们的餐厅位处城市
最漂亮的街上。”在餐厅 的一端整齐地挂着经过腌 制的肉,开放式厨房让 整个空间弥漫着食物的香 味。这里十分忙碌,却充 满活力与生命力。来这里 光顾的客人怎么可能不是 都手拿一杯本地出产的葡 萄酒,伴着一碟美味的腌 肉呢? 隔一条街便是繁忙 的蓝道大街(Rundle Street),酒吧与高级 餐厅混合体Orana和 Street ADL就是在这条街 上。Orana餐厅位于楼 上二层,使用本地材料烹 调出别出心裁的菜色,而 位于底层的Street ADL则 提供澳大利亚小吃和各种 酒类。Orana在原住民 的方言里代表“欢迎”, 餐厅内最多容纳25人, 最大的特色是每一道菜 均采用本地的材料精制 而成,厨师兼老板Jock Zonfrillo旨在把澳大利亚 本土食材的天然味道发挥 到极致。 一瞬间,他已经把一 碟被半球形玻璃盖子盖着
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all about local produce. We are a small city surrounded by wineries and farms and I want to work with where we are,” says Zonfrillo. For restaurateurs and locals alike, there’s no passing up a visit to the Adelaide Central Market. Coffee, seafood, cured meats and local vegetables line the stalls; it’s every chef’s go-to source of fresh grub in Adelaide. Downstairs in Street ADL – the offshoot of Orana with a more relaxed vibe – modern furniture and handcrafted ceramics have been traded for large wooden communal tables and steel stools. The atmosphere and clientele are drastically different, but the concept is the same. Locals peruse the impressive local wine collection curated in house, sipping on innovative cocktails and devouring another menu dedicated to unique Aussie flavours.
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dome the table is engulfed in billowing smoke, the smell of sweet wood chips hinting at the surprise within: a beautifully plated charred kangaroo tartare with gubbinge, grass and wild garlic. “We need to be doing something different here. We aren’t in New York or Paris or even Sydney for that matter. We need to embrace the Adelaide culture, and that’s
Sleep Mayfair Hotel
Hilton Adelaide
最近开业的梅费尔酒店为您的 阿德莱德住宿体验增添一点 华丽与优雅。坐落于城市的枢 纽地带,这座被列入文化遗产 的建筑为您提供奢华的住宿享 受、现代的餐饮体验以及无与 伦比的地理位置。
拥有完美的地理位置的希尔 顿酒店,俯瞰维多利亚广场 (Victoria Square),能轻易 满足您一切娱乐、购物以及餐 饮需求。酒店提供一系列的豪 华套房供选择,还有一家屡获 殊荣的餐厅让您品尝使用当地 食材烹制的可口菜肴和美酒。
The recently opened Mayfair will add some grandeur and elegance to your stay in Adelaide. Located right in the heart of the city, this beautiful, heritage listed building offers luxury accommodation, contemporary dining and a perfect location. mayfairhotel.com.au
Overlooking Victoria Square, the Hilton is perfect for all shopping, entertainment and dining needs. There are a range of luxury rooms to choose from and an awardwinning restaurant in which to enjoy delicious local produce and wine. hilton.com
Intercontinental Adelaide 洲际酒店豪华的装潢以及奢 华的套房定能让您的住宿体 验锦上添花。酒店位于富有历 史文化背景的北大街(North Terrace),与阿德莱德一些最 漂亮的建筑比邻而居。 The Intercontinental will add some glamour to your stay with its extravagant decor and beautiful deluxe rooms. The Intercontinental is also located on the historic North Terrace amongst some of the city’s most beautiful buildings. icadelaide.com.au
When it comes to drinking, locals have had to play catch-up in the last few years, and some of the best establishments only recently opened. 2KW Bar and Restaurant is one of the latest to spring up and make a name for itself. This rooftop bar knows its focus and sticks to it, providing simple yet elegant tapas plates such as eye fillet tartare or crispy spiced half duck, and a solid wine and cocktail list, all set among beautifully designed wooden and brass furniture. But it’s the unobscured view over the north side of the city that has people talking. Come sunset, it’s one of the liveliest bars in the city. However, for the small bar scene, which has seen an eruption, the place to go to sip a Negroni cocktail in a former department store loading dock (if that is your thing) in the West End’s revitalised laneways. Here it’s all about the tiny pop-up bars like Clever Little Tailor, where you’ll find yourself standing shoulderto-shoulder with 60 of your closest new friends. With bars on the mind, it’s hard to visit Adelaide without being distracted by wine. Every restaurant, small bar and many cafes feature some of the most impressive wine collections in Australia, thanks in part to being no more than 20 minutes from the Adelaide Hills wine region (or 60 minutes’ drive to the world famous Barossa Valley). With small bars and restaurants embracing local produce and local culture, the winemaking industry – particular in the area of boutique wines – is flourishing. Wine bars are more prevalent here than in Sydney and Melbourne as the slow pace, climate and cafe culture encourages locals to take the time to sit and sip their afternoons away. Quiet, leafy alleys like Vardon Avenue, off Rundle Street, feature some of the best wine
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的菜肴端出来,玻璃盖子 内烟雾弥漫。当他把盖 子打开,整张桌子都被浓 烟笼罩着,随着香味扑鼻 而来,这道菜的谜底也 被揭开:袋鼠鞑靼配上澳 大利亚本土食材费氏榄 仁、青菜和野蒜,卖相十 分精美。Zonfrillo说道, “在这里,我们需要创出 不一样的东西。我们不是 在纽约、巴黎或悉尼, 我们要融合阿德莱德的文 化,所以一切都跟本地食 材有关。我们这里是一个 被许多酒庄和农场环绕的 小城市,我希望善用我们 已经拥有的资源。”不管 是餐厅老板还是当地人, 也绝对不会错过阿德莱 德中央市场(Adelaide Central Market)。咖 啡、海鲜、腌肉以及本地 菜蔬等一应俱全,这是阿 德莱德的厨师们采购食材
必去的地方。 楼下的Street ADL里 摆放了富现代感的家具、 大型的公用木桌子和钢制 凳子。这里的气氛和顾客 群都大大不同,可是两家 餐厅的概念是一致的。当 地人被他们家一系列本 地酒款所震撼,一边品尝 着新颖的鸡尾酒,一边浏 览着另外一个酒单,上面 全是具有澳大利亚独特风 味的酒。Street ADL是 Orana旗下的餐厅,风 格比较开放,氛围也比较 轻松。 美酒佳酿 谈及酒吧文化,阿德莱德 在最近几年才慢慢地赶上 来,一些最棒的酒吧才刚 刚开业。新开业的2KW 酒吧餐厅最近人气十分旺 盛,这家天台酒吧非常清 楚自己的强项并且加以发
挥,提供简单却高雅的西 班牙小吃如肉眼排鞑靼或 酥脆五香鸭半只、不错的 葡萄酒与鸡尾酒酒单,餐 厅内还设有精美的木制 和黄铜制的家具。不仅如 此,餐厅更拥有迷人的美 景,坐拥阿德莱德北面的 城市全景。日落时分,这 里是全城其中一个最有魅 力和动力的地方。 最近爆发了一阵小 型酒吧热潮,去到位于
West End其中一条充满 活力的小巷,前身是一家 百货公司的装卸区内品尝 一杯内格罗尼鸡尾酒。这 里有许多像Clever Little Tailor酒吧一样的pop up 小酒吧,您在此地会发现 自己跟其他60个人肩并 肩地站在一起,跟他们成 为“最亲密的新朋友”。 到访阿德莱德真的离 不开酒。每家餐厅、小酒 吧,甚至许多的咖啡厅藏
Wine Culture WITH DOZENS OF WINERIES JUST OUTSIDE THE CITY, ADELAIDE’S WINE COMMUNITY IS BOOMING
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bars in the city, such as Mother Vine and the Tasting Room. Sitting opposite each other, wine is at the heart of both, but while Mother offers an elegant setting, simple minimalist design with polished concrete floors and a wall of wine to get lost in, the Tasting Room is all about community. Customers inside the Tasting Room chat with anyone and everyone around them, sharing thoughts on the latest harvest, mumbling words such as ‘complex’ and ‘creamy’ as they hold glasses of red up to their noses. Like truffle-hunting pigs, most Adelaideans have developed an instinctively keen nose for quality wines. Between the tables littered with empty glasses are oversized boards with in-house cured meats and fresh cheeses being picked apart by happy customers. Owner Michael Andrewartha hovers between tables, sharing his knowledge of the region and taking a few sneaky sips for himself. Like many bars in Adelaide, it’s as much about being a local as it is being a business. Adelaide’s humble roots have given the city a small-town community feel, while its elegant architecture and rich history entwined with a modern setting mean the past is never forgotten. With a surge of small bars and audacious chefs, Adelaide has well and truly brushed off its ‘humdrum’ persona to become one of the most stylish and adventurous cities in Australia, and one worth every traveller’s time. It may have fallen off the maps of many, but Adelaide has well and truly made its grand return. ◆
酒之丰富让人惊叹,其中 一个原因可能是这里距离 阿德莱德山(Adelaide Hills)产酒区只有20分钟 的路程(距世界知名的芭 萝莎谷60分钟的车程) 。随着越来越多小酒吧以 及餐厅支持本土出产和本 地文化,酿酒业——尤其 是在精品葡萄酒方面也越 发兴旺。比起悉尼和墨尔 本,酒吧文化在阿德莱德 更加流行,有鉴于她拥有 比较缓慢的节奏、气候以 及咖啡文化等各种元素结 合起来,形成当地人比较 愿意放慢步调,度过一个 轻松恰意的下午。 城内一些很棒的酒吧 都在绿树成荫的僻静小 巷里,如位于蓝道大街 旁边瓦登大道(Vardon Avenue)的Mother
Vine和TheTasting Room。两家酒吧就在对 方的对面,皆是以酒为卖 点。可是Mother Vine的 设置比较高雅,抛光的 混凝土地板还有放满各种 酒类的墙壁,设计非常简 约,而Tasting Room是 轻松同乐的风格。 客人在The Tasting Room内都与身边的人攀 谈,交流最近收成的心 得,当他们把装着红酒 的酒杯靠近鼻子时,会 说出“复杂”和“绵密 柔顺”之类的字眼。许 多阿德莱德人的鼻子都 被训练得非常敏锐,能 分别出酒的优劣。桌子 上除了有许多空杯子之 外,还有自家制的腌肉和 新鲜的奶酪,都是快乐的 客人点的。老板Michael
Andrewartha穿梭于各 桌之间,跟大家分享他对 这区的知识,偶尔还会偷 偷呷上两口小酒。跟许多 其他在阿德莱德的酒吧一 样,生意就是要贴近当地 的文化及需求。 因阿德莱德卑微的起 源让整个城市有种小镇的 感觉,非常亲切。高贵优 雅的建筑和丰厚的历史与 现代的设置交织在一起, 证明过去是没有被遗忘 的。随着各种小酒吧和大 胆创新的厨师的兴起,阿 德莱德真正摆脱了“单调 乏味”,变成澳大利亚一 个最时尚、最大胆创新的 城市之一,值得每一个旅 客到访。阿德莱德或许曾 经被许多人遗忘,现在就 是阿德莱德隆重回归的时 候了。 ◆
Magill Estate Cellar Door 距澳大利亚市中心仅15分钟车程便来到位于山脚下的玛吉尔酒庄,这里是澳大利亚最具代表性的葡 萄酒葛兰许(Grange)诞生的地方。奔富以品质上乘和历史悠长而名扬四海,它的酒庄让您沉浸在 170年历史当中。您可以自己漫游在美丽的酒庄里,穿越于葡萄藤之间,或是参加导览团,品尝酒庄 里最让人崇拜的葡萄酒。如果您有空,记得前往玛吉尔酒庄餐厅尝试一下阿德莱德当季的佳肴。 Nestled in the foothills of Adelaide less than 15 minutes outside of the city lies the historic birthplace of Australia's most iconic wine, Grange. Penfolds is a name known across the world for its quality and its history and its cellar door allows you to immerse yourself in 170 years of tradition. Roam the beautiful estate on your own, soaking in the vines and surrounds, or take a guided tour through the original home of Penfolds and sample the winery's esteemed portfolio of wines. If you have time, make sure to stop off at the Magill Estate Restaurant to sample some of Adelaide's local seasonal flavours. penfolds.com
CHINA SPA S
Seven for
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heaven
Lathered up, massaged, exfoliated and detoxed – Alicia Miller has experienced it all on a mission to find seven of the best spas in China
CHINA SPA S 80
Amanfayun Hangzhou From the outside it might look like a historic Chinese village, but the ancients never had it this good. Like all Aman Resorts, this barefoot chic pad deliberately turns down flash modcons, instead letting traditional delights seep to the surface. Birds chirp from lush foliage overhanging sweeping curves of double-eaved-rooves; their songs reverberate against red lanterns swaying across wood-slatted windows. You’re just 20 minutes’ drive from bustling Hangzhou, perfect striking distance for the region’s famed temples and pagodas – but here, there’s nothing but solitude. Ringed in spindly tan towers of bamboo, plump tea bushes and fragrant magnolia trees, the in-house spa is
this serenity’s epicentre. They call it ‘a spa’, but really it’s an epic five-building complex that somehow manages to be both understated and epic. Require a foot or hand rub-down? No problem, the masseurs in the dedicated Reflexology House are standing by. After a bit of ‘metime’ soaking in a giant barrel-like tub? Sure thing – the bath house, complete with rain shower and steam rooms – is at the ready. Really just need to get away from it all? Escape to the meditation room in the fitness centre, next to a courtyard fringed by weeping willows. You can spend a day just puttering around, but you’ll never get the full experience without booking a treatment. It’s a succinct, rather than rambling,
list of offerings, but it still contains the option to be pummelled with heated bamboo (great for the muscles, apparently) or sample traditional cupping (so long as it’s not date night – it leaves temporary marks on your body). We say ‘spring’ for the seasonally inspired treatments – spring itself comes with an aromatic steam bath, ginger and kaffir lime-scented compress and massage, and winter features a warm oil head massage that will send you straight to heaven.
DE TA IL S Doubles from 5,865 RMB, amanresorts.com
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Anantara Sanya Just being in tropical Hainan, replete with long, palm-studded white sands and head-turning shades of turquoise, is therapy. But when you take into account Anantara’s location – tucked between verdant mountains, the sparkling South China Sea and nearby natural hot springs – and combine it with a world-class, in-house spa, then relaxing becomes a very serious business indeed. Rich, dark woods and neutral-toned stones bedeck the belly of the sprawling spa, letting you immediately shrug off the tropical climes in favour of cool, calm environs. Flickers of candlelight illuminate treatment rooms, where therapists work their magic using
techniques with Thai and Indian flair. But there’s a distinctly local flavour at work here too; star treatments use products as local as you can get, such as crushed seawater pearls from the South China Sea, harvested from Sanya’s coastline. Local women – and eventually, Imperial Palace royals – have used the luminescent, precious spheres for over 3,000 years to restore youthful glow. Can several millennia of spa pioneers really be wrong? Other treatments put the powerful healing properties of tea to work. In a nod to the natural soothing abilities of this omnipresent leaf, it features in a plethora of lotions and oils for lathering you up.
Can’t decide which treatment to go for? No problem. This is the sort of spa you can justify coming to more than once a day – after all, how else are you supposed to make the most of both the ‘yang’ (dawn renewal) treatment, and the specialised ‘yin’ (dusk relaxation) treatment? As for that time in between, that’s simple – if it’s not spent on the sands, warm surf splashing at your feet, then it should definitely be spent sipping fruity cocktails in Anantara’s slick swim-up pool bar.
DE TA IL S Doubles from 1,264 RMB with breakfast, sanya.anantara.com
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Pullman Lijiang Coddled by serene wilderness, and ringed by silvery blue, snow-capped peaks, the Naxi-inspired Pullman feels a world away from popular Unescoprotected Lijiang – even though it’s a mere 10 minutes’ drive from the centre. The sumptuous Mandara Spa feels further away still; the rambling reception alone, flecked by trees and illuminated by oriental lamps and an imposing metal gong, conjures a slice of Shangri-La. Cosseted by a private courtyard, clad in sleets of soothing slate that echo the nearby mountains, feel the tingle of fresh air tickle your skin as therapists fuss over you. There are global-inspired treatments aplenty on offer – Thai,
Balinese and Swedish massage, to name but a few – but it’s the Chinese therapies that really shine. Get your qi (energy flow) in order via a vigorous massage, or expel the city grit from your precious pores with an antiageing Pu Er body scrub that makes skin glow. Should your whims dictate, you can even have your body schleffed with Yunnan lavender and mountain salt, or Yunnan coffee. In fact, there’s really very little they haven’t thought of here, and that’s not even taking into account the signature baths. Seriously, is there anything more decadent that bathing in a stone-hewn pool of petals, soaking in antioxidantrich, stress-busting green tea like some
giant human sponge? You’d think not – but that’s until you retire to one of the hotel’s private garden villas, draped in creamy tones, natural stones and dark wood trim, for a good long soak in your outdoor heated tub. Eager, dedicated staff are at your beck and call – to fix a cocktail, to whip up a gourmet meal of traditional Naxi delights – and if the spa has not yet eked every last bit of tension from you, that enduring mountain view certainly will.
DE TA IL S Doubles from 1,020 RMB, pullmanhotels.com
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Angsana Tengchong Resort Nestled alongside Yunnan’s epic ancient volcanoes, yawning wetlands, bubbling hot springs and misty Gaoligong Mountains, highland Tengchong has plenty going for it. Add to that list this top-notch spa resort, which makes the most of the surrounding wealth of natural beauty when easing its guests into relaxation mode. The famed hot springs of the region wind their way straight into the resort, so you can lightly poach yourself in the mineral-rich waters via a smattering of 43 indoor and outdoor geothermal pools, without ever leaving the resort. Just picture the scene – surrounded by bushy shrubs and graceful trees, you can slip into a sultry circular pool
built for only two. Shaded by a domelike wooden screen, you’re left alone to enjoy the warmth of late afternoon as it slips into twilight. The whole shebang is pretty fantastic – and that’s not even getting on to the spa treatments, which, as you might imagine, are thoroughly decadent too. The ingredients used to replenish both mind and body are literally good enough to eat – lemon yoghurt or honey sesame body polish; soothing pumpkin and rice body conditioner; frangipani and jasmine body polish, just for starters. And as every therapy is executed by genuine experts, rather than inexperienced junior staffers – they’ve all had at least 350 hours of
rigorous training – you can trust them to really get to work on that tense shoulder, or sore leg. They’ll make sure you’re fighting fit for exploring the fascinating local area – ambling through nearby Heshun Old Town, popping into the teahouses or watching egrets and wild ducks peck along the wetland pond. Or, observing the raging fury of Dadieshui Waterfall (the ‘Flying Dragon’), over which the Nanpan River furiously crashes to 90 metres below.
DE TA IL S Doubles from 3,048 RMB, angsana.com
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Puli Shanghai The frantic, full-on nature of glitzy Shanghai makes a spa visit in this city an essential, rather than a luxury. So it’s a good thing the swish Puli is at hand, located smack in the centre of the park-flecked, business-heavy Jing’An District. No tucked-away drab basement treatments room here – it’s both a plush hotel and a spa in equal measure, making it just as good for day visitors as it is for resident hotel guests. It’s got a full five treatment suites plus steam rooms, and is blissfully located on the third floor, so you actually get to see a bit of cheery sunlight. Though, it’s also open until 10pm, making it about as flexible a spa
as you can get, perfect for a quick fix before, after or during gaps in the busy sightseeing schedule. Masculine browns and burnt reds frame the spa space, which is softly illuminated by slender modern light-fixtures. As for the nitty gritty of the treatments themselves: Thai and Indian techniques lead the way, while the majority of the others feature tea – green tea scrubs for detoxification, white tea body wraps for balancing or Chrysanthemum tea for health-boosting. Still, the best way to beat the tension in China’s most modern city is to go old school with a traditional Chinese rub-down. The masseurs will treat you
like a giant ball of dough, using tui (pushing), na (pulling and dragging), an (rhythmic pressure), ca (rubbing), pai (tapping), zhen (vibrating) and more to turn you into chilled-out putty in their hands. Fancy something less coma-inducing and more invigorating before you hit the town? Try the beautifying rose tea ‘journey’ – thanks to rose water’s circulation-enhancing, invigorating properties, you’ll leave the spa beaming like a newly opened flower.
DE TA IL S Doubles from 2,424 RMB, thepuli.com
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Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain It’s not ready just yet – it’s scheduled to throw doors open in May this year – but if the other Six Sense resort spas are anything to go by, we’ve got reason to be pretty excited about this one. The first Six Senses property in China, tucked at the lush foot of the iconic Qing Cheng Mountains near Unesco World Heritage and Natural Cultural site Dujiangyan in Chengdu, this is about as top-tier luxury as it gets. The swimming pools alone will be more therapeutic than most hotel spas – one of them, heated, is tucked indoors; the other, like a sheet of glass, glimmers in the centre of a perfectly manicured garden. The rooms, too, are
set to have a spa-like tranquillity about them: all soothing natural hues in naked woods and stones, with flashes of a leafy sage-lime green, plus some of the comfiest beds ever. Of course, complete relaxation won’t set in until you pay a thorough visit to the in-house spa, which is set to be a corker. Six Senses Spa treatment lists read more like books than leaflets – you know that when a menu is so big it needs its own contents list that they take the art of unwinding very seriously. There are enough treatments to keep even the most dedicated hedonist busy: even kiddies have a fistful of chill-out options. For us fully grown
spa-goers, there’s all the usual – but not-so-usual once you try ‘em – massages, facials, scrubs and plucking and pruning, plus we’re promised a clutch of special treatments with unique local twists. Though, if you’re feeling truly indulgent – and you must certainly be, at these Six Senses prices – we’d suggest heading straight for the caviar and pearl face treatment. The pinnacle of luxury, it basically magics wrinkles away.
DE TA IL S Doubles from TBC, sixsenses.com
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Banyan Tree Hangzhou It’s not just the moody lighting or that soul-searching flute music that goes into making a spa relaxing – it’s the smells, too. At Banyan Tree Hangzhou, they have this nailed. Because the treatments feature aromatic Chinese ingredients – whether it’s lemongrass, lavender or rosebuds – you’ll never emerge from Banyan Tree Hangzhou’s spa smelling any less than zen-fresh. And, feeling it, too. As a resort that drips with traditional Jiangnan-style elegance – a smattering of dark tiled roofs, creamy white walls, surrounding a tranquil lake – it only makes sense that the spa features classical Chinese techniques. But they’ve put their own spin on things.
Opt for the ‘Royal Banyan’, and you’ll be gently flogged by dual herbal pouches, dripping with warm sesame oil – besides feeling utterly blissful, it’s supposed to improve your blood circulation and relieve tension in your muscles. If your skin is lacking lustre, there’s an answer for that too – just sign up for the Oriental Bath Yin Experience, and you’ll be steamed, sauna-ed, and hot-and-colddipped (in tranquil pools) before being kneaded with Longjiang tea scrub and topped with ginger and safflower. As for the more ‘invigorating’ side of things, a yin or yang rain shower treatment, which combines the cool trickle of water with detoxifying scrubs and stress-busting massage, certainly does the trick.
Post-treatment, the spa effect needn’t stop; being in the Xixi Wetlands, this romantic hotel, a favourite with honeymooners and swish, well-heeled couples, offers more than enough places to crash and unwind. Whether it’s supping on a candlelit dinner under the stars in the garden, surrounded by flickering torches and fragrant blooms, or chilling in your own private spa villa with heated floor and jetpool, relaxing is, in fact, something you’ll be specialising in for your entire stay.
DE TA IL S Doubles from 2,380 RMB, banyantree.com
SYDNEY 88
The new old RILEY STREET GARAGE IS MIXING UP THE GAME, ADDING ITS OWN HOUSE-MADE MAPLE SYRUP TO THE CLASSIC OLD FASHIONED
From glamorous hotel bars to old-school underground dens, Sydney’s whisky scene is creating a community of like-minded drinkers across the city.
情迷威士忌 从高端奢华的酒店酒吧到老式的地下酒吧, 悉尼的威士忌酒吧把志同道合的人汇聚在一起 Words and photography Trent van der Jagt
Y
经
ou never tire of watching a seasoned 验丰富的调酒 bartender whipping up an Old 师调制出古典 Fashioned. There’s a quick and loose 鸡尾酒的过程 flick of the wrist as the smooth, maple-coloured 是永远都不会看腻的。调 liquid flows from bottle to glass, followed by a 酒师的手腕快速转动,然 final twist of a citrus rind. It’s the no-nonsense 后把酒盅内金黄色的液体 whisky cocktail that has remained at the top of 轻轻的倒进玻璃杯里,最 its game for over 130 years, and one that isn’t 后用柑橘皮加以装饰。威 about to be toppled in Sydney any time soon. 士忌鸡尾酒已经有130年 The team inside the Sydney Four Seasons’ 的历史,并且它将会在悉 lobby bar Grain are all hard at work crafting 尼持续传承下去。 and creating their various concoctions and 在悉尼四季酒店的 pulling beers from the local The Rocks Grain酒吧里,团队正努 Brewery, but it’s the discerning whisky 力地尝试创出各种不同的 collection that really has people interested. 调酒,而啤酒是从本地的 Among the classic dark wooden panelled walls The Rocks Brewery啤酒厂 and sleek island bar clad in curved Queensland 而来的,不过真正吸引人 Blackbutt timber are patrons brandishing 们的是一系列让人惊叹的 glasses of whisky in place of the usual fruity 威士忌。酒吧设有经典的 mixtures for which many Sydney bars have 深色木板墙与时尚的木制 become known. Here, whisky is definitely the 酒吧台,悉尼的酒吧因着 weapon of choice. 带有果香味的调酒而著名, Located on the lively harbour front of 可是这里的客人手中拿着 Circular Quay, Grain is as much about the 的是却威士忌而不是调酒。 night life and atmosphere of The Rocks as it is 在这里,威士忌才是王道。 about the alcohol. “We’re dedicated to the art Grain酒吧位于活力四 of the drink here,” says Daniel, our bartender 射的环形码头(Circular for the evening. “Most people might just Quay),充分展示了悉 come here for their after-work drinks by the 尼的夜生活以及岩石区 harbour, but there’s still that community in (The Rocks)的魅力。调 Sydney who recognise a good quality whisky 酒师Daniel说,“酒是一 when they see it.” 门艺术,我们这里坚持这
个理念。虽然许多人是下 班后前来随意地喝一杯, 可是在悉尼也有一群懂酒 的人,一看便能认出那些 是高品质的威士忌。” 在悉尼一些比较高端奢 华的酒店酒吧如香格里拉 的Blu Bar on 36也认同高 质量的酒,特别是威士忌 的市场需求越来越大。Blu Bar on 36是一个能让您远 离喧嚣的地方,浸泡在悉 尼港湾迷人的景色中,小 酌一杯比传统鸡尾酒更有 层次、有深度的美酒。 在悉尼众多的鸡尾酒酒 吧当中,专营威士忌的酒 吧如The Baxter Inn找到了 一大群同样爱好威士忌的 朋友。这里的谈话都是环 绕着单一麦芽威士忌以及 酿酒区,杯子里搅动着的 是传统而不是创新,而且 如果在这里看不见调酒师 站在非常有气氛的灯光下 调酒也无伤大雅,只要您 能看到并且尝试到逾百款 来自世界各地,跨越不同 年份的威士忌便足以。 如果要在悉尼选出一位 能畅谈威士忌的人,那必 定是Barry Chalmers,他
SYDNEY
WHISKY BUSINESS
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SYDNEY 90 Master at work AWARD-WINNING BARTENDER JASON WILLIAMS KNOWS HIS WAY AROUND HIS LIQUORS
Seafood pleasures RILEY STREET GARAGE WILL LOOK AFTER YOU WITH AN IMPRESSIVE OYSTER AND SEAFOOD MENU
在The Baxter Inn餐厅负 人聚集在一起交流心得。 责采购威士忌以及培训学 9成进来的人对威士忌的 徒。Chalmers在酒吧里手 认识比较少,不过他们很 里永远拿着一杯金黄色的 乐意学习,因此我们在这 酒,就好像《广告狂人》 里教导他们。” 里的Don Draper一样,只 尽管有众多威士忌酒 是 没 有 穿 西 装 而 已 。 几 吧比邻而居,却仍然还没 乎每一瓶威士忌都是由 有到泛滥以及市场饱和 Chalmers亲自挑选,他 的程度,比威士忌酒吧 对餐厅里的威士忌酒款了 开得更多更猛的鸡尾酒酒 如指掌。“我们有熟客非 吧也是如此。它们找到互 常清楚自己想要些什么, 相并存的秘诀并且为有兴 那个年份,那家酒厂。我 趣的客人提供一个学习 们也有想要尝试新酒款的 的天堂。McDiarmid说, 客人。人们热衷于学习,“我们都会到对方的酒吧 不仅要学会基础理论,能 喝酒。如果有人在悉尼提 分别出各种味道,还要像 供一些值得尝试的东西, 认识老朋友一样去认识 我们一定会去尝试。我 酒,当您明白它过去的历 们之间并没有竞争,也没 史,便能帮助您明白它的 有想打败其他人的念头, 特性。” 单纯是出于打从心底里对 The Baxter Inn里面 威士忌的喜爱。” 的一道墙上有一扇银行保 随着越来越多的酒 险库的门,上面涂满蝙蝠 吧出现,悉尼的人对 侠的漫画。Chalmers说, 美 食 与 小 吃 的 需 求 也 “我们认为这里曾经是一家 越 大 。 位 于 伍 卢 穆 卢 银 行 , 不 过 没 有 人 能 确 (Woolloomooloo)的 定。”把门打开便是一个 Riley Street Garage餐厅 小 小 的 角 落 , 楼 底 刚 好 所提供的威士忌和杜松子 高过一个人,里面的架 酒系列是连极度沉迷威士 子上摆放了Chalmers所 忌的酒客也无可挑剔的, 指的“好东西”。这里 还有一个带有美国风情的 还是一个品酒室,客人能 菜单以及许许多多的牡蛎 直 接 把 他 们 喜 欢 的 酒 买 供应。这里原本是一个车 走。Chalmers说,“想 库和机器修理店,开放式 要体验威士忌的历史,就 的酒吧台以及餐厅保留了 得品尝这里的酒。” 1930年代车库的风格。砖 位于萨利山(Surry 墙和水泥纹理给人一种强 H i l l s ) 心 脏 地 带 边 缘 的 烈的美式工作室的感觉, Wild Rover酒吧,它们所 高高的天花板和华丽的钢 拥有的高级酒款可能没 檐篷增加了室内的空间 有The Baxter那么全面广 感,有别与一般的地下威 泛,不过自从两年前开业 士忌酒吧。在这里比较少 后便一直专注于建立客户 着重于您对酒的了解有多 群。受爱尔兰风格所启发 少,而是专注在美食佳酿 的两层高酒吧,底层的灯 的配对上。在Riley Street 光昏暗,氛围比较活泼有 Garage您不需要是美食 趣;而上层则是把窗户打 或是佳酿的专家也能享受 开、享受新鲜空气以及现 两者完美搭配的美好。 场乐队表演的地方。 品酒也不一定需要很 总 经 理 K i m 复杂的。一些悉尼的酒 McDiarmid说道,“我们 吧坐拥悉尼天际线的美 想开一家威士忌酒吧的原 景,酒店酒吧有经典现代 因是我们都很爱威士忌, 的设置或是传统私密的舒 希望把我们对威士忌的热 适氛围。不论如何,最终 情和知识跟其他人分享, 的目的都是让您在品酒时 这也是我们举办品酒之夜 完全沉醉在威士忌的世界 的 原 因 , 让 志 同 道 合 的 里。 ◆
IN SYDNEY WHO RECOGNISE A GOOD QUALITY WHISKY WHEN THEY SEE ONE”
SYDNEY
“THERE’S A COMMUNITY
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Gin o’clock
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While whisky is on plenty of people’s lips, others have fallen for the sweet aroma of juniper. Coriander, cardamom and cubeb berries aren’t words most whisky lovers utter, but for Jason Williams, two-time Bartender of the Year and the group bars manager for the Keystone Group, gin is his game. The rooftop gin bar, The Rook, in the heart of Sydney, is one of Jason’s many homes – one where he lets his imagination fly with one of the city’s largest gin collections as his playground. “Like whisky, gin is at its best when its flavours and process can stand on their own,” says Williams. “It might not have the same history as a whisky, but its diversity and depth allows us to find new ways to enhance and complement the natural flavours.” therook.com.au 在许多人都在品尝威士忌的同时,有些人却被杜松 甜甜的香气吸引。香菜、豆蔻和荜澄茄并不是喝威 士忌的人会挂在口边的字眼,可是对于两次荣获 年度调酒师以及Keystone集团的酒吧经理Jason Williams来说,杜松子酒就是他的强项。位于悉尼 心脏地带的屋顶酒吧The Rook,是Jason其中一 家酒吧,这是城内其中一家拥有杜松子酒酒款最多 最广的地方,让Jason能尽情发挥创意。Jason说 道, “杜松子酒或许没有如威士忌一样的历史背景, 可是其多样性和深度让我们能不断发现新的方法来 加强原来天然的味道以及使之更加完美。”
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In demand THE ROOK MIGHT KNOW A THING OR TWO ABOUT GIN, BUT THAT DOESNT MEAN THEIR WHISKY SKILLS AREN’T STILL ON POINT
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When it comes to whisky in Sydney, it’s hard to go past specialty whisky den the Baxter Inn. Here, talk of salt-rimmed glasses and seasonal fruits are replaced by single malts and distillery regions, and what people have swirling in their glasses is about tradition over innovation. Mood lighting adds to the ambience as you see and sample the hundreds of bottles of whisky spanning the globe and the decades. The spectacle of light and dark browns gleaming inside their glass bottles is just as important as the collection itself, exciting the senses and establishing trust that these guys know a thing or two about their liquor. If there’s one man in Sydney to chat to about anything and everything whisky, it’s Barry Chalmers, whisky trainer and buyer at the Baxter. Slumped over the weathered hardwood bar, Chalmers is rarely seen without a glass of something golden brown in his hand – like Don Draper, but without the suit. Nearly every bottle has been hand-picked and curated for the bar – if there’s something new or something old, Chalmers knows about it. “We’ve built a community around whisky here in Sydney,” explains Chalmers. “We have regulars who know their stuff and know exactly which year and distillery they want, then we have others who just want to try something new for the first time. People want to learn, and by sticking to the basics and not confusing the flavours you get to know the drink like an old friend; you understand its past, which helps you understand its character.” Along the back wall of The Baxter Inn, behind the rickety stools and flickering candles, lies a bank safe door straight out of Batman cartoons. “We think this bar was an old bank, but no one is actually sure,” says Chalmers. With a little elbow grease and some strained biceps the door swings open to reveal a small nook. Barely taller than a man and lined with shelves of what Chalmers refers to as ‘the good stuff’, this is the tasting room. “This is where the real stories are told,” says Chalmers. “These are the drinks people want to sample to experience the history of whisky.” While locals flock through the unmarked, hidden entrance of the Baxter Inn, a number of other whisky joints are becoming home to vibrant and enthusiastic communities looking for a taste of something different. The Wild Rover, on the edge of the CBD in Surry Hills, may not have the same variety of top shelf liquors as Baxter, but it has been focused on growing its community since opening its doors barely two years ago.
Whisky collectors THE BA XTER INN HAS NEARLY 400 BOTTLES OF WHISKY — AND THAT’S NOT INCLUDING THEIR LOCKED-UP TOPSHELF COLLECTION
Club house THE WILD ROVER HOLDS WHISKY APPRECIATION NIGHTS FOR THOSE LOOKING TO STEP UP THEIR WHISKY GAME
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SYDNEY 94 Still number one THE CLASSIC OLD FASHIONED ISN’T GOING ANY WHERE ANY TIME SOON
Mixing it up STAFF AT RILEY STREET GARAGE KNOW THEIR WAY AROUND COCKTAILS
With two floors of Irish-inspired whisky-den vibes, you can choose from the full piquant, low-light experience downstairs or head to the second floor where open windows, fresh air and live music are a welcome diversion. “We wanted to start a whisky bar simply because we love whisky,” says general manager Kim McDiarmid. “We wanted to share our love and knowledge of it with people, which is why we hold tasting nights where people can get together to chat about what we love. Ninety per cent of those who come in here won’t know a lot about whisky, but they want to learn to love it, and we are here to teach them.” Although there are a number of whisky bars popping up alongside each other, the city hasn’t been flooded with them – unlike whisky’s more rambunctious younger sibling, the cocktail bar. They have found a way to coexist and offer interested drinkers a haven in which to learn. “We all drink at each other’s bars,” says McDiarmid. “If someone in Sydney has something worth trying, we’ll be there. There’s no competition and no one tries to outdo the other – it’s all about the love of the drink.” While cocktails and food aren’t the focus at the Wild Rover, there are a few staples that are as popular as ever, such as the Whisky Sour and the Old Fashioned, which never go out of style. Try washing these down with a few freshly shucked oysters from southern NSW to really round out the night. Meanwhile, at Riley Street Garage in Woolloomooloo, a whisky and gin collection at which no whisky geek could scoff sits alongside a full, American-inspired menu. Originally home to a garage and machine shop, the open plan bar and restaurant has kept the atmosphere of a 1930s garage. Exposed brick and textured cement lend an authentic American workshop impression, while the tall ceilings and ornate steel awnings open up the space – quite the opposite to the usual ‘underground’ whisky bar vibe. Here there is less focus on how much you know about your liquid gold and more about pairing your drinks of choice with your crate of smoky soy truffle oysters or white soy kingfish sashimi. It’s a place where good food and even better liquors accompany each other without the need to be an expert on either. Drinking doesn’t need to be too complicated. Some Sydney bars might have the allure of the Sydney skyline, the classic modern setting of a hotel bar or the traditional comfort of an intimate whisky den, but when it all comes down to it, it’s about losing yourself in the whisky – no matter where you’re drinking. ◆
Wall of whisky
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AN ENTIRE WALL IS DEDICATED TO THE BA XTER’S ENORMOUS COLLECTION
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Thirsty? Grain 悉尼四季酒店的Grain酒吧拥有浓厚的酒吧 氛围的同时,也坐拥环形码头美丽的景色。 无论是威士忌还是精酿啤酒,Grain酒吧都 能满足您。 Four Seasons Sydney takes on the moody, hardwood spirit bar without the need to sacrifice those beautiful views of Circular Quay. Whether it’s whisky or craft beer, Grain is a must.
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grainbar.com.au
Blu Bar on 36 俯瞰悉尼最迷人的海港景色,Blue Bar on 36酒吧的服务员对他们所提供的酒款也挺 熟悉的。 This has easily one of the best views overlooking the harbour in Sydney – and the staff know a thing a two about their collection too. 36levelsabove.com.au
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The Baxter Inn 昏暗、私密、凝重的氛围。悉尼最好的威士 忌系列就在这里。不管是鲜为人知的日本威 士忌还是广为人知的格兰菲迪,都能在这里 找到。 Dark, intimate and brooding; there is no better whisky collection in Sydney. Whether it’s an obscure Japanese whisky or a top-shelf Glenfiddich, it’s here. thebaxterinn.com
The Wild Rover 爱尔兰民仓加上一点纽约风格的The Wild Rover酒吧,让您在这里认识兴趣相投的朋 友并且互相交流心得。您也可以来参加晚上 举行的品酒会。 An Irish folk barn with a touch of New York chic. This is where you come for conversation and community. There’s always a tasting night on that you can easily slide into. thewildrover.com.au
Riley St Garage 设在一个经全新翻修的旧机械车库里,来这 里不仅是为了喝酒,还为了悉尼一些最可口 的酒吧小吃。 Built inside an old mechanics garage, this beautifully renovated space is more than just drinks, the chefs know how to whip up some of the best pub feeds in Sydney. rileystgarage.com.au
The Rook 当您喝腻了威士忌,可以到这里来一杯杜松 子酒。悉尼其中一家拥有最广泛的杜松子酒 系列,这个天台酒吧绝对值得您去到访。 When you need a break from whisky, your old friend gin is there. Boasting one of the city’s largest collections of gin, this rooftop bar is worth the change of pace. therook.com.au
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W AT E R TO W N S
Wa te r w o r l ds
On the outskirts of bustling Shanghai lies a collection of water towns that buck the big-city trend Words and photography Mark Parren Taylor
Clockwise from top left
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HUDDLED SHOPHOUSES LINE A TANGLE OF CANALS IN ZHOUZHUANG ; TRANQUIL TUISI GARDEN, TONGLI; A LION CARVED INTO A WOODEN SUPPORT BEAM, WUZHEN
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I
s this the bus for Joe … Joe –? Oh no…” The New Yorker turns to her husband. “Honey, what’s his name again?” “It’s no ‘Joe Schmoe’, it’s a place! Zhouzhuang,” he responds, with admirable calm. “Oh! You got it,” chuckles the woman. “Is this the bus for Joe Chang?” The bus driver nods enthusiastically and the couple take their seats on a back-to-the-future ride: the ride from Shanghai – the 21st-century city “on the sea” – to a 1,200-year-old water town. Ever since Tom Cruise raced along canalside walkways and over rickety tiled roofs at the climax of 2006’s Mission: Impossible III, there has been rippling international interest in the historic towns located in between Shanghai and Suzhou in Jiangnan, the southern fringes of Jiangsu Province. These are destinations that have been on the itineraries of domestic day trippers for only a little longer, since 1985 when the national press carried photos of US tycoon Armand Hammer giving then leader Deng Xiaoping a painting. It was artist Chen Yifei’s work entitled “Memories of Homeland – Twin Bridge,” and it was of the quaint (but at that point widely unknown) backwater called Zhouzhuang. Deng was said to have admired the artwork – and the place caught the public imagination.
Getting there from Shanghai Tour buses for various water towns depart from Shanghai’s Tour Bus Center (2409 Zhongshan 2nd Rd; nearest subways Caoxi Road (line 3) and Shanghai Swimming Centre (line 11)). Each destination may have several departures during the day, the first at approximately 7am. Prices (which include entrance tickets) start at about 120 RMB. For more info visit chinastbc.com (Chinese only). Public buses also reach many of the water towns. They generally depart from Shanghai South Long-Distance Bus Station (adjacent to Shanghai South Railway Station). Prices start from about 30 RMB. For more info visit ctnz.net.
Take to the water Boat trips cost on average 100 RMB per boat (for 6–8 people) for a 20-minute tour. Wuzhen’s trips Individuals may join some sailings, prices start from 20 RMB depending on location and time of day.
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cost up to 180 RMB for a night trip.
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Staying over Inns, boutique hotels and guesthouses offer accommodation in most water towns; ctrip.com or
booking.com are useful starting points if pre-booking is preferred. Prices for guesthouses start at 100 RMB per night. For more comfortable accommodation rates begins at about 200 RMB per night.
“ I T ’ S A L L U T T E R LY W AT E R TO W N S
B E G U I L I N G , E S P E C I A L LY
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IF YOU CAN MAKE IT IN THE OFF-SEASON”
A TANGLE OF CANALS The Hollywood movie did the same thing, in its own way, two decades later. And while its finale was filmed at Xitang, some 25km south, looky-likey Zhouzhuang is the most convenient (and established) port of call for many visitors – so convenient that on high days and holidays it can be swamped with sightseers. Nonetheless, visitors find what they come for: huddled shophouses lining a tangle of canals where alleys and quays are linked by humpback bridges and towpaths. Cafes and gift shops squeeze into haphazard rooms, broadrim hatted gondoliers steer craft under willow trees, and snatched glances through open windows reveal real homes lived in by real people. It’s all utterly beguiling, especially if you can make it on a quiet day in the off-season. Aside from Zhouzhuang, other popular water towns include Tongli and Wuzhen, but lesser known communities are starting to draw the crowds too. Qiandeng, Nanxun and Luzhi are connected to the same vast and complicated water system, and can themselves become clogged with all-comers, in Golden Week especially. They all started out as settlements on waterways that fed into the Grand Canal, the 1,700km-long superhighway that enabled the supply of grain and other goods south to Hangzhou and up to Suzhou, Wuxi and further afield – all the way to Beijing. Look at the map and you’ll see that this little corner of China’s eastern seaboard is puddled with reservoirs and watercourses – so much so that it’s hard to decide if land or liquid has the upper hand. One thing is for sure: the people of this waterworld have made it their home for two millennia and are as at ease in a neither-here-nor-there world as Venetians or Halong Bay villagers are in theirs.
A STRANGE WORLD These days, though the northern reaches of the 1,500-yearold Grand Canal are mostly unnavigable, the remaining sections (from Jining south to Hangzhou) are still a major haulage route and those folks that live and work on the canal, known as chuanmin or ‘boat people’, sometimes find themselves like the tourists passing through the strange world of the water towns.
Strange because most of their Grand Canal is heavy-duty and unromanticised. The water towns are as different to the chuanmin world – where big stretches of water heave with big barges – as they are for day trippers heading from skyscraping Shanghai. It’s roughly a two-hour ride to Zhouzhuang and other water towns by tour bus; the majority arrive mid-morning and head back to Shanghai late afternoon. The trips are straightforward and well-organised, but the downside is that busloads of sightseers hit the towns wholesale. With this in mind, some folk head there by public bus from Suzhou (in about 60 minutes) – it gives them the opportunity to spend a day exploring its gardens before heading to Tongli or Luzhi, say, when it’s not rush hour. Those that are really clued up stay overnight in a local inn, or kezhan. This offers the time and space to roam the lanes at either end of the day. And also, with a little planning, means that they can hop to other water towns using the local bus network – some journeys may be a little complicated, but others, such as route 263 that links Tongli and Zhouzhuang, are straightforward. Even more direct (and fitting) is a boat ride between these two must-see towns. It crosses Tongli Lake, cuts along a 2km channel passing villages that go by names such as Thanks Alley and East Meadow Creek before heading through Baixian Lake to Zhouzhuang. The trip costs about 150 RMB.
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Take a stroll A QUIET COURTYARD IN THE HEART OF THE ZHANG HOUSE, ZHOUZHUANG
Getting in
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The water towns are generally open 8am–5pm, some are open longer (such as Zhouzhuang, till 8pm in summer) and some also open in the evenings (Wuzhen, for example, from 5–10pm). Tour bus visitors’ tickets are generally included in the price; otherwise entrance tickets cost 50–120 RMB. Where applicable, evening tickets cost 50–80 RMB. Wuzhen offers a joint ticket for its two halves at 150 RMB. Tongli’s ticket is valid for two days, but must be stamped on the first day after 3pm for it to be accepted.
Art by the water RELA XING ON A TRADITIONAL STONE SLAB BRIDGE (LEFT); SHADOW PUPPET THEATRE IN WUZHEN (BELOW)
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“ITS CHINESE NAME IS MUCH MORE DESCRIPTIVE: COW-TONGUE CAKE”
PORTS OF CALL Tongli has a different air to its counterpart. It’s famed for the Sex Culture Museum (that alas, has currently drawn the curtains and locked the door because it’s being done up) but the UNESCO World Heritage Tuisi Yuan – a delightful stroll garden built in the 1880s – is an equally appealing drawcard. Wuzhen (a little further south across the border in Zhejiang province) is famous for its indigo-dyed fabrics, and presents a particularly charming picture of bygone performance arts with its shadow puppet theatre, Flower Drum traditional opera and old black-and-white movies that are projected onto a wall near Pingshu Hall on summer evenings.
It’s about 60km from Wuzhen to Zhouzhuang, with Xitang somewhere in between. Near here there are water towns that have so far shrugged off the tourist dollar – Luxu, for example – but it’s only a matter of time before they’re discovered. And further north, Luzhi is famed for its ancient ginkgo or maidenhair trees that turn golden in the autumn, and nearby Song-era Qiandeng is home to Yu’s, claimed to be the oldest pawnshop in China. At the end of the day in Zhouzhuang I jump on my Shanghai-bound bus and greet my new American friends. They’re munching happily on a popular local snack that they bought along the street. Uninspiringly, it’s sometimes translated as ‘oval-shaped flat-bread’. But its Chinese name is much more descriptive: cow-tongue cake. It’s a sesame seed-sprinkled biscuit – resembling the bovine licking equipment, hence the name – that has a moreish salty-sweet crunch. “They call them ‘New Shopping’ and they’re delicious,” the lady explains (you cannot fault her enthusiasm for trying a new language as well as new foods.) “Oh sweetie!” Pipes up her ever-patient husband, who then, with impressive accuracy, explains her error. “It’s nuttin’ to do with ‘New Shopping’ – it’s niu she bing!” ◆
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魅力乡村
Country
charm
不仅是大城市才有不断创新的餐饮体验, Lisa Perkovic到访了新州的乡村小镇奥兰芝, 发现这里是一个美食宝库
It’s not just the big cities that are innovating on the Australian dining scene. Lisa Perkovic pays a visit to the NSW country town of Orange and discovers a treasure trove of culinary delights Photography Trent van der Jagt
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Rural pleasures RACINE RESTAURANT (ABOVE) IS LOCATED IN A CHARMING FARMSTEAD BUILDING
he Australian Outback is immense. Travelling by road, you’d barely scratch the surface after a few weeks. From the air, the landscape changes quickly; concrete jungles disappear, giving way to scruffy farmland, followed by vast expanses of red dirt. By private plane, the distances and major airports disappear in minutes. One day you’re leaving Melbourne; the next you’re landing on a dirt strip at Kings Canyon Station, where wild bulls and kangaroos share the airstrip. It’s Saturday morning and the locals are lining up. In Sydney they’d be queueing for a table at a hot new café but in Orange, on the Central Tablelands of NSW, the crowds are at the Trunky Creek Bacon and Egg stand. A bacon and egg roll fresh from the BBQ is a staple in plenty of Australian country towns, so what makes this one so different? The award winning, 100 per cent local bacon producers have a reputation that stretches all the way back to Sydney – one of many local providores whose wares have caught the attention of the big city. And they’re just
今
天是周六的早 晨,当地人在 排队。如果是 在悉尼,那家店必定是一 家新开的咖啡厅,可是在 位于新南威尔州中央高地 的奥兰芝(Orange), 人们不是为了咖啡厅而排 队而是为了来一份Trunky Creek Bacon and Egg的 培根鸡蛋卷。 当场烘烤的培根鸡蛋 卷在澳大利亚大小城镇屡 见不鲜,那这个有什么特 别之处呢? 这只是一家在奥兰芝 每个月举办一次的农贸市 场内的小吃摊,却荣获奖 项,其采用百分之百本土 培根的培根鸡蛋卷已扬名 大城市悉尼。 奥兰芝距离悉尼西部 只需三个多小时的车程 (260公里),这里的老 树、宽阔的大街以及为城
市增添些许文化历史氛围 的19世纪建筑,却是大城 市所没有的。在过去的十 年里,城里的人为了呼吸 新鲜的空气而涌进乡村地 方来。跟着他们一并来到 的是对浓咖啡、美食和佳 酿的需求。 Bill Beans烘培工作室 及咖啡馆直到2007年都 是在悉尼营运的,现在已 搬到奥兰芝东部一个由 肉店改装而成的店铺。 其老板把咖啡文化引进国 内,并且使用百分百从当 地采购的阿拉比卡咖啡 豆所组成的混合咖啡。 非常受欢迎的新咖啡馆 Factory Espresso设有杯 评以及品味咖啡班,现场 还有焙烧炉。店里的自助 咖啡豆机常有新口味的咖 啡豆供应,鼓励当地人购 买咖啡豆回家自己研磨冲 泡。咖啡馆提供自家调制
“ T H E PA S T D E C A D E HAS SEEN AN INFLUX OF CITY SLICKERS SEEKING T H E C O U N T RY A I R ”
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one of the busy stands at Orange’s monthly Farmers Markets. Orange may be just over a three hour drive west of Sydney (260km) but the grandfather trees, wide streets and charming 19th century buildings add a little bit of history and heritage that’s missing from the big city. The past decade has seen an influx of city slickers seeking the fresh country air. They’ve brought with them a demand for strong coffee, good food and excellent wine.
冰拿铁、冷滴咖啡、手冲 咖啡,甚至还有猪肉苹 果香肠卷——悉尼咖啡馆 拥有的一切在这里也能找 得到。Factory Espresso 确实是一家紧贴最新潮流 动态的咖啡烘培店,就连 位于悉尼内城区的新咖啡 馆也请求它们定制混合咖 啡。Bill Beans不仅是一家 咖啡烘培店,周五晚上连
同Factory Espresso摇身 一变成为鸡尾酒吧,供应 一系列来自当地知名顶级 厨师Kate Bracks新鲜烘 培的蛋糕。她家的柠檬酥 皮馅饼被一块鼓鼓的金黄 色酥皮盖着,一出炉便很 快被一扫而空。 在Byng St Local Store 咖啡馆,挂在墙上的鹿头 已成为了当地的象征。这
Coffee and cocktails FACTORY ESPRESSO IS RENOWNED FOR ITS COFFEE BUT TRANSFORMS INTO A COCKTAIL BAR ON FRIDAY NIGHTS
“奥兰芝及周边地区的酒 窖围绕着小镇,成为一 条风景秀美的酒庄之路”
里并不是狩猎的地方,而 是一家充满现代气息的街 头小店/咖啡馆,提供受 大城市美食风潮所影响 的乡村美食。它们家的古 鸡蛋能为您补足大量的 蛋白质,也可以点一份 它们家很有名的早餐面 包卷。墙壁以澳大利亚 艺术家James Kearns的 作品装饰,在悉尼首屈 一指的私营画廊区帕丁 顿(Paddington)里的 Maunsell Wickes Gallery 画廊,也能找到他拍摄澳 大利亚畜牧和野生动物的 惊人作品。 至于高端的餐饮体 验,奥兰芝这个乡村小镇 也拥有几家有名的高级餐 厅。Lolli Redine餐厅以 及Racine餐厅是两家屡 获澳大利亚最佳餐厅的当 地食府。Lolli Redini的历 史可追溯至十年前,于 2001年开业。厨师兼老板 Simonn Hawke将意大利 及法国菜带进乡村地区, 并且采用当地土产。正因 为她有着使用当地食材的
执着,餐厅的菜单也随着 季节而转换。秋季的特选 菜色有经过两次烤培的奶 酪蛋奶酥、煎鹌鹑肉火腿 卷和锅煮血鸭等。 位 于 小 镇 边 缘 的 Racine餐厅是厨师Shaun Arantz以及太太Willa的 心血结晶。农庄建筑内 的用餐室简洁温馨,环 境优美,通过玻璃门便 来到一个充满鸟语声, 并且修剪整齐的草坪。菜 系充分展示本土食材的 特色——包括远近闻名 的Mandagery Creek鹿 肉。菜色随着季节而变 动,所以在冬季时会有大 量的松露美食。如果您喜 爱甜食,千万别错过位于 镇内的Racine烘培坊,这 是两夫妇的手工焙烤食品 店,人手制作的法式长棍 面包、酸面包、羊角面包 和蛋糕并没有添加任何防 腐剂或其他添加剂,通常 当天关门前便全部售罄。 该区凉爽的气候以及 充足的雨量促使牧场业 蓬勃发展以及各种水果的 丰收,也使之成为发展 迅速的葡萄酒产区。这里 不仅拥有大陆性的气候条 件,还有高海拔的地理 位置,其葡萄树的海拔 位置最高可达1,120米。 卡诺伯拉斯山(Mount Canobolas)是该区最 高的山峰,不过其他的山 并没有因为其高度而显得 黯然失色,反之它使环绕 乡镇的群山更加的连绵起
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Until 2007 Bills Beans was a Sydney-run operation. Now the roastery and espresso bar operates out of a converted butcher’s shop in East Orange. The owners have brought caffeine culture to the country, with a commitment to 100% estate sourced Arabica blends. Their new multi-million dollar site, Factory Espresso, is the setting for cupping classes and taste appreciation sessions, with the roaster on site. Here there’s always a new blend of beans in the self service chutes, with locals encouraged to buy beans to take home and grind themselves. There are house-made ice lattes, cold-drip coffee, pour overs, even pork and apple sausage rolls – all the fodder you’ll find in a Sydney café. They’ve certainly got their fingers on the pulse, with requests for bespoke coffee blends coming from the likes of new inner city Sydney café Dr. Faustus. Bills Beans isn’t just about the beans. The pared back, industrial Factory Espresso transforms into a cocktail bar on Friday nights and the range of freshly baked cakes come from none other than local celebrity and MasterChef winner Kate Bracks. Her lemon meringue pies are glazed with perfectly browned meringue peaks and sell out by the slice. Meanwhile, at the Byng St Local Store, the deer head hanging on the wall has become a bit of a local icon. This is no hunting cabin, though. It’s a corner store/café with a modern
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Grape expectations ORANGE’S COOL CLIMATE AND RELIABLE RAINFALL HAVE HELPED IT BECOME A THRIVING WINE REGION
THE FINER THINGS When it comes to fine dining, Orange is a country town with a few gems in its crown. Lolli Redine and Racine Restaurant are two local institutions frequently winning spots in best restaurants lists for Australia. Lolli Redini’s pedigree dates back more than a decade, with the kitchen opening in 2001. Chef and owner Simonn Hawke has brought Italian and French fine dining to the countryside and made it accessible through a commitment to showcasing local produce. Her commitment to farmers and growers leads to an ever-changing seasonal menu – twice baked Heidi gruyere cheese soufflé, pan fried quail saltimbocca and pressed duck terrine are a few autumnal highlights. On the edge of town, Racine Restaurant is the work of Chef Shaun Arantz and his wife Willa. The farmstead building’s dining room is relaxed yet polished, with glass doors opening up onto manicured lawns and bird song. The menu showcases the best of local produce – the Mandagery Creek Venison has a reputation of its own. Dishes change with the season so expect plenty of truffles in winter.
伏。同时,卡诺伯拉斯山 的土壤中富含玄武岩,能 为这些山脉供输养分。 长相思(Sauvignon Blanc)是该产区的主 角,带有典型的花香,是 一款成熟的葡萄酒。凉爽 的气候以及湿润的土壤所 栽种出来的霞多丽以及各 种葡萄能够酿出优质的葡 萄酒包括黑比诺(Pinot noir)、梅洛(Melot)、 西拉(Shiraz)和霞多丽 (Chardonnay)。 奥兰芝及周边地区有 超过30个酒窖,它们围 绕着小镇成为一条风景 秀美的酒庄之路。前往 酒窖的途中会经过安静 的郊区街道,这些酒窖 同时也是个家园。该区 有许多在葡萄酒界赫赫 有名的酒庄直至现在仍 然是由家族经营。Philip Shaw屡获殊荣的葡萄酒 全部采用来自家里47公 顷Koomooloo葡萄园所
种植的葡萄酿制而成。酒 窖与家毗邻而居,每周七 天访客络绎不绝。此酒窖 的酿酒师拥有多年丰富的 酿酒经验,以前曾为玫 瑰山酒庄(Rosemount Estate)以及南方葡萄酒 业(Southcorp)担任酿 酒师。 另外一个不容错过的酒 庄是Ross Hill。酿酒师Phil Kearney是当地葡萄酒生 产的倡导者,提倡把酿酒 的过程带回该区的酒庄之 内而不是运送葡萄到别的 地方去。跟葡萄园一起的 是个老苹果园,到如今每 年还出产一万箱水果。酒 庄Pinnacle系列的霞多 丽曾上榜著名葡萄酒作家 Huon Hooke以及酒評家 James Halliday的最佳酒 单,被评为带有果香味, 并且具有良好的平衡性。 奥兰芝并不是只有葡 萄酒。随着传统苹果酒的 需求日益增加,James
“凉爽的气候以及充足的 雨量使之成为发展迅速 的葡萄酒产区”
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edge. Expect rustic country fare influenced by the big city food trends – try the paleo eggs for a protein overload or the famous breakfast roll. Works by Australian artist James Kearns adorn the walls; you’ll find his striking shots of Australian livestock and wildlife on display at the Maunsell Wickes Gallery in Paddington, Sydney’s premier private gallery district.
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Meat your match LOLLI REDINI’S MENDAGERY CREEK VENISON (ABOVE) HAS A GROWING REPUTATION
If you have a sweet tooth, save room for a trip back into town to Racine Bakery, the couple’s artisan baked goods store. Preservative and additive free, the handmade baguettes, sour dough, croissants and cakes usually sell out before the day is over. The cool climate and reliable rainfall in the region is responsible for thriving paddocks and bountiful fruit harvests but is also the driving force behind a flourishing wine region. The continental weather conditions are aided by elevation; the highest grapes in Australia are grown here at an elevation of 1,120 metres. Mount Canobolas is the region’s tallest peak, but it doesn’t overshadow, its height instead adding to the rolling hills surrounding the country town and its basalt soil bringing life to those hills. Sauvignon Blanc is the region’s flagship wine, with wineries producing traditionally floral, ripe vintages. Chardonnay and red varieties including pinot noir, merlot, shiraz and chardonnay also benefit from the terroir. There are more than 30 cellar doors in and around Orange – the scenic wine trail fans out in a circle around the town. You’ll quickly be driving past the quiet suburban streets to
cellar doors that are part of the family home. Many of the region’s big names in the wine industry are still family run. Philip Shaw’s award winning wines are made from grapes sourced entirely from the family’s 47 hectare Koomooloo Vineyard. The cellar door on-site adjoins the family home and is busy seven days a week with locals and tourists. The winemaker certainly knows what he’s doing, cutting his teeth as winemaker for Rosemount Estate and Southcorp. Ross Hill is another cellar door not to miss. Winemaker Phil Kearney is a big advocate for local wine production, bringing the process back in house to the region instead of shipping grapes offsite. The vineyard co-exists with the old apple orchard, which still bears 10,000 cases of fruit each year. The Pinnacle Chardonnay is the showstopper here, taking spots on Huon Hooke and James Halliday top wine lists, and praised for its balanced fruit definition. Wine isn’t the only drop you’ll sample in Orange. James and Gail Kendell’s Small Acres Cyder cellar door has gained popularity in the past few years with the rise in demand for traditional cider. Small Acres Cyder specialises
“酒窖与家毗邻而居, 每周七天访客络 绎不绝”
与Gail Kendell的Small Acres Cyder在过去几年 人气也越来越高。Small Acres Cyder专门出产传 统的苹果酒,选用独有的 苹果酿制而成。在其位于 奥兰芝边界的建筑里还开 设品酒班,让参加者品尝 各种的苹果酒,从清脆爽 口的到超级甜的,各种口 味应有尽有。
在镇里有许多品酒班 供选择,位于被列为文 物保护的一家银行建筑内 的Union Bank Wine Bar and Wine Store备受当 地人喜爱,其酒单涵盖 一系列的本地出产,选择 丰富广泛,酒吧内还设有 现场音乐以及休闲的庭院 用餐体验。历史悠久的 Canobolas酒店,其历
史可追溯至1939年,不过 刚完成全面的翻修工程, 顶层全新的Chesterfields Whiskey and Wine Bar 酒吧不仅供应当地的葡萄 酒,还有60款不同种类的 威士忌待您细细品尝。 跟餐厅、葡萄酒吧以 及酒吧一样,奥兰芝的住 宿选择也离不开温馨的小 屋和历史建筑。de Russie
Suites酒店拥有低调的风 格——裸砖墙、简约的设 计作品和柔和的灯光, 设有单间公寓、套房以 及公寓三种房型。两室 和三室的家庭公寓非常 实用,而总统式的Blue Room套房十分漂亮。 自己独霸舒适的四柱床, 让孩子通通都到别的房间 去吧。◆
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in traditional cider, made from heritage cider apples, and a tasting session at their property on the edge of Orange runs the gamut from crisp and refreshing to super sweet. There are plenty of options in town for tasting sessions too – the Union Bank Wine Bar and Wine Store in a heritage-listed former bank is popular with the locals for its extensive local wine list, live music and casual courtyard dining. The historic Hotel Canobolas Hotel dates back to 1939 but is fresh from an extensive renovation – the brand new, top floor Chesterfields Whiskey and Wine Bar stocks local wines along with 60 different types of Whiskey. Like the restaurants, wine bars and pubs, the accommodation options in Orange are tucked into cosy cottages and heritage buildings. The de Russie Suites have made a study of understated style – exposed brick, minimalist design pieces, muted lighting – with studio, suite and apartment options. The two- and three-bedroom family suites are highly practical, but the presidential-style Blue Room is just beautiful. Curl up on the four-poster bed and unwind after your day sampling the many and varied culinary experiences Orange has to offer. ◆
Orange F.O.O.D Week 奥兰芝美食周 奥兰芝美食周在每年的四月份举行,每年都吸引许多游客蜂拥而至奥兰芝尽享一 系列的美食佳酿。本地农场、供应商、商店以及餐厅纷纷开门,从市集和品尝大 会到烹饪课和品酒会,各种活动在美食周期间如火如荼地进行。需门票的活动包 括“100英里的晚餐”,食材全部都是当地出产,还有在镇外的葡萄园里举行的 Forage品尝大会。参加者一起来到第一个葡萄园,每人都需要有一个玻璃酒杯以 及一个好胃口来开始这趟品尝之旅。鹿肉腩到莫斯卡托冰糕,每一道菜都在不一 样的葡萄园中进行,并且搭配两至三款葡萄酒。最后一站是前往经精心修剪的花 园,一边品尝咖啡和本地奶酪,一边欣赏现场音乐表演。 April’s annual event sees hundreds of visitors flock to Orange for a series of wine and food events. Local farms, providores, stores and restaurants throw open their doors for everything from markets and degustations to hands-on workshops and wine tastings. Sell out events include a 100 Mile dinner, with all ingredients sourced from local regions, and Forage, a roaming degustation that takes place in the vineyards outside of town. Participants are bused into the first vineyard and set off with a tasting wine glass and big appetites. From venison brisket to moscato sorbet, each course takes place at a different vineyard, and is paired with two to three wines. The event concludes in a manicured garden with live music, coffee and local cheeses. Orange Farmers Markets, Orange Factory Espresso, 135 Kite St, Orange Byng Street Local Store, 47 Byng St, Orange Lolli Redini, 48 Sale St, Orange Racine Restaurant, 42 Lake Canobolas Rd, Orange Philip Shaw Wines, 100 Shiralee Rd, Orange Ross Hill Wines, 134 Wallace Lane Small Acres Cyder, 2 Akhurst Rd, Nashdale Union Bank Wine Bar, 84 Byng Street, Orange Chesterfields Whiskey and wine Bar, 248 Summer St Orange De Russie Suites, 72 Hill St Orange
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在中国,奢华以千姿百态的方式呈现着,可是没有一 个能比得上这些世界知名酒店集团,把奢华演绎得淋 漓尽致,Alicia Miller写道
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China rising BEIJING’S SUNRISE KEMPINSKI IS A FINE EX AMPLE OF THE INNOVATIVE ARCHITECTURE TO BE FOUND IN CHINESE HOTELS
Photo: Sunrise Kempinski Hotel, Beijing
Luxury comes in many forms in China, but nowhere is such opulence more evident than in these offerings from world-renowned hotel groups, reveals Alicia Miller
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he Shangri-La, the Peninsula, the Mandarin Oriental. These Chinese-based hotel groups are all synonymous with luxury, grand style and exclusivity. But, when it comes to posh Chinese pads, these home-grown ventures are only the beginning. The real luxury hotel game in China is just getting started: the world’s most coveted hotel outfits – from sky-scraping, modish W Hotels to barefoot-chic Anantaras and grown-up, sophisticated Rosewoods – have started to move in. And alongside the aforementioned Chinese classics, they’re opening hotels unlike any in the world. In the last few years the explosion has been hard to keep up with. There have been Sofitels and Andazes in Shanghai, and Amans and Graces in Beijing, to name just a few. And the openings won’t be stopping anytime soon. It’s no secret China’s luxury market is flourishing; newly moneyed, discerning customers have both the cash – and the inclination – to splurge not just on ‘stuff’, but also on experience. Staying at a bling hotel is just that; you’re buying a moment in time, a feeling, a memory. And for the very best of these moments, some are really prepared to pay. How many places in the world can sustain a presidential suite clocking in at over US$26,000 per night? The Mandarin Oriental in Shanghai’s Pudong can. It’s not just cities going luxe on the hotel front. Postcardparadisiacal destinations such as Hainan – China’s answer to Hawaii – have exploded with high-brow international openings. It’s about time; with such pristine blue waters and virgin beaches at home, why bother going abroad? Meanwhile, in strikingly different, misty and mountainous Yunnan – best known for its UNESCO-protected Old Town of Lijian – luxury spa hotel group Banyan Tree has opened not one, but two remote retreats. Anantara has also joined the party – in Hainan, Yunnan, and at the foot of Emei Mountain. You might work up a sweat scaling up this sacred Buddhist Mountain to visit the 76 monasteries, but there’ll be no lack of creature comforts once you’ve made your way back down. Magnificent these hotels may be, but as mentioned, the boom has only just begun. Within the next two years, expect openings from Bulgari Hotel and W in Shanghai, Sofitel in Hainan and Anantara in Guiyang. Not to mention the Intercontinental Shimao Wonderland, the world’s first ‘landscaper’ – dug 19-storeys underwater and constructed into an existing cave in Tianmenshan Mountain – proving no project is too big or daring, for China. But, you can’t stay in those places just yet. In the meantime, we give you the hottest new luxury Chinese hotels, ripe for visiting in 2015…
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格里拉、半岛、文华 东方,这些中国酒店 集团多年来一直是奢 华、气派、专属的化身。可是 提及中国豪华时尚的酒店时, 这些国有企业只是一个起点而 已。奢华酒店的游戏在中国才 刚开始,一些拥有世界上最让人 梦寐以求的外观的酒店开始进 驻中国,从高耸入云、时髦风 尚的W酒店到朴素典雅的安纳 塔拉酒店,还有高贵优雅、奢 华别致的瑰丽酒店。这些新的 酒店加上之前提及的中国经典 酒店品牌,都在不断建设独树一 帜,无可挑剔的新酒店。 在过去几年里豪华酒店发 展速度之快让人难以赶上。 索菲特和安达仕分别在上海开 业,而安缦和格瑞斯也在北京 开张,中国的新酒店举不胜举, 酒店热潮也将延续下去。当然, 正在蓬勃发展的中国高端市场日 益壮大是众所周知的事实,新 兴的富一代独具慧眼,拥有大 量的财富不仅花在“实物”上, 还特别注重体验。入住豪华酒 店正是购买一份体验——那份 美好的时刻、感受和回忆。宾 客愿意为了这份最美好的时刻一 掷千金。世界上有几家酒店的 总统套房价格能持续维持在每 晚美金26,000元?上海的文华 东方酒店做得到。
不过不只是大城市才在酒店 方面日趋豪华。一些如明信片里 一样惊艳美丽的旅游胜地如享 有“中国夏威夷”美誉的海南 岛也招来国际高端酒店。拥有 如此清澈湛蓝的海水和纯净如 雪的海滩,度假还需要出国吗? 与此同时,豪华水疗酒店集团 悦榕庄在神秘的云岭高原云南, 受联合国教科文组织保护的丽江 古城开建了两家度假村。安纳 塔拉也加入了这场派对,酒店 选址在峨眉山脚下。登上这座 四大佛教名山之一的峨眉山观 览76个寺院可能会使您汗流浃 背,可是回程下山时便能沉醉 在大自然的享受之中。 如我们之前所说的,这些 酒店或许非常华丽,却只是 一个开始而已。未来的两年, 即将看到宝格丽酒店和W酒店 在上海开业、索菲特进驻海南, 还有贵阳的安纳塔拉。上海洲 际世茂仙境酒店就更不用说了, 它即将是世界上首个“人造景 观”,酒店共有19层,其中有 2层建在水下,还有其他的建于 天门山的洞穴里。这家酒店证 明了对中国而言没有项目是太 大或是太过前卫的。不过这些 酒店还没有开业,所以我们以 下为您介绍在中国最新、最热门 的豪华酒店,让您在2015年浸 泡在无止境的奢华当中。
Have a ball
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SUNRISE KEMPINSKI, BEIJING A giant, glittering disco ball – burnished with 10,000 glass panels reflecting the shifting skies above – the Sunrise Kempinski, an hour from Beijing’s bursting centre, is impossible to miss. Perched on the banks of tranquil, 66-hectare Lake Yanqui, a willow and poplardotted nature retreat and bird haven a dumpling’s throw from the Yanshan Mountains, the whole look is a bit ‘spaceship’. In fact, the hotel was designed to look like a scallop from the side – representing good fortune – and the rising sun from the front (symbolising harmony, unity and just good things all around). Once you’ve finished gawping at the outside (just wait until you see it at night – there are LED lights everywhere), every bit of cool Kempinski plush is to be found inside. Bedrooms are European-slick with a Chinese flair; expect lots of geometric shapes, dark and golden brown tones, and muted metal accents. Make for the hotel-top View’s Bar, which overlooks the island-dotted lake, where you can sink baiju cocktails to a DJ’s thumping beat. Or, retreat to the spa – it’s the very opposite of Beijing-frantic, with local plants, flowers and herbs featuring in soothing treatments.
Doubles from 1,500 RMB, including breakfast; kempinski.com
日出东方凯宾斯酒 店-北京 日出东方凯宾斯的外墙使用了 10,000块的玻璃,日照之下就像一颗 巨大的迪斯科舞厅的灯球,闪烁无比。 酒店距离繁忙的北京市区仅1小时的车 程,加上如此耀眼的外形使您定不会 错过它。坐落于宁静优美66公顷大的 雁栖湖内,柳树成荫,鸟儿从燕山来 到湖中栖息,这里是山水交融,远离 喧嚣的天然胜景。从侧面看,酒店 建筑呈扇贝形状,代表着“财富”, 配合酒店建筑正面的圆形“旭日东
升”的寓意。欣赏完酒店的外观之后 (别忘记观赏晚间全部亮起LED灯 的它),凯宾斯的内部装潢同样 让人惊叹。客房的设计融入了中国 传统文化的欧式风格,大量运用几 何图形、深棕色和金棕色系,当中 还带一点金属材质的设计作点缀。位 于酒店顶层的怡景酒吧, 俯瞰风景入 画的湖畔,随着DJ激昂的节奏呷着杯 中的白酒鸡尾酒。不然“退隐”到水 疗所,疗程中采用当地的植物、花卉 和香草。 双人房每晚人民币1,500元起,价格包 含早餐。
Photos: Sunrise Kempinski Hotel, Beijing
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THE SUNRISE KEMPINSKI’S ALLURE IS TYPIFIED BY ITS EXQUISITE BALLROOM
The ‘new’ Beijing BEIJING’S ICONIC CCTV TOWER CAN BE SPIED FROM GUESTROOMS
ROSEWOOD HOTEL, BEIJING Rosewood just has a way about it – everything is so darn classy. Dark, moody woods; heavy, expensive-threadcount fabrics; and a very subtle, well-measured flirtation with colour, only when it’s suitable: just entering the place makes you feel fabulous. Beijing’s, and the country’s, first outpost, which opened last autumn, has a subtle, very-Rosewoody look – but with added, very careful, touches of Chinese flair. Bronze Jiao Tu (Sons of Dragon) statues guard the entryway, cloisonné paintings hang here and there, there’s an occasional flash of Chinese print. Meanwhile, the location, right across from the iconic CCTV tower in burgeoning Choyang, the shopper’s paradise and city’s after-dark city funspot, is prime for those keen to experience the ‘new’ Beijing. Although, you might not actually be bothered leaving Rosewood, what with six restaurants and lounges to keep you busy. Plus the spa, which opens in April: the cherry on the cake, it’s set over a frankly excessive 3,000 square metres, and you can actually kip overnight inside specially designed suites, while all the goodness of the locally inspired treatments soaks in.
Doubles from 2,000 RMB; rosewoodhotels.com
瑰丽酒店-北京 瑰丽的一切都是如此的高贵优雅。 采用深棕色木材、高级的高密度面料 以及低调地运用颜色搭配并且恰到好 处,走进瑰丽让您感受到美妙奢华的 气息。去年秋季华丽登场的北京瑰丽 是中国首家以瑰丽酒店为品牌的酒店, 在品牌一贯的风格上注入了中国传统 文化的特色。坚如盘石的“龙之子” 守门神铜雕守望着酒店主门入口,墙 上挂着景泰蓝画,偶尔还能看到中式的 印花图案。酒店坐落于正在蓬勃发展 的朝阳区,拥有优越的地理位置,与 中央电视台这一京城地标性建筑遥相 辉映。这里是购物爱好者的天堂以及 入夜后的娱乐热点,是体验“新北京” 的最佳去处。瑰丽有6家餐馆和酒吧让 您寸步不移便能享受美食之乐,还有 于四月份开张的水疗中心,面积宽敞 占地3,000平米,设有经精心打造的水 疗套房并提供住宿服务,让您在幽静 且优雅的水疗中心尽情放松身心,解 除疲劳。
双人房每晚人民币2,000元起。
Only the best
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FROM THE FRESCOED LOBBY (RIGHT) TO AL FRESCO DINING AT QI BAR (BELOW), THERE’S PLENTY OF SPLENDOUR TO BE FOUND
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MANDARIN ORIENTAL, SHANGHAI PUDONG
浦东文华东方 酒店-上海 上海是一个热闹繁荣的城市,到处都充 满着让人兴奋的人事物。可是浦东文 化东方是这一切的中心,不仅位于黄 浦江之畔,还处在浦东金融区的中心, 距离外滩仅咫尺之遥,被陆家嘴耀眼 的摩天大楼所环绕。文华东方带时尚 隽永的风格却不失舒适感——奶白色 的沙发、大理石浴室以及富有装饰艺 术性的灯光照明。而且在文华东方, 他们对食物的标准非常严谨。58︒法 式扒房提供由米其林星级主厨Richard Ekkebus烹制的现代法国菜肴,严选 上等食材并融入精湛的烹饪技艺,宾客 带来极致绝伦餐饮体验,其中最受食 客讚赏的是使用自然炭火烤制而成的 顶级牛排。另外有主打江南菜系的雍 颐庭。除了提供美味的点心之外,还 有一流的无锡肉骨煲和野菌富贵鸡等 具有地方色彩的正统江南菜色。别怕 大快朵颐之后没有机会把卡路里消耗 掉,只要走过大气的大堂壁画到酒店 的大门口即可,毕竟多姿多彩的上海 现在就在您的脚前!
双人房每晚人民币2,400起。
You’re never far from excitement in Shanghai, but at the Mandarin Oriental Pudong, you’re really in the thick of it. Right on the banks of the Huangpu River, in the heart of the ever-glittering financial district, you’re just moments from the Bund, encased by the high-rises and skyscrapers of Lujiazui. Being the Mandarin Oriental, the look is altogether swish – contemporary but comfy surroundings; creamy couches, marble baths, art deco-esque mood lighting. And they take their food very seriously. Work your way through the menu at the modern French-tinged Fifty 8˚grill from Michelin-starred chef Richard Ekkebus. The look is ever-so-slightly New York brasserie, but the food sings with very Gallic flavours including house-cured charcuterie and terrines, veal blanquette, coq au vin – plus the more global appeal of wood-firedgrill wagyu steaks. Then, there’s the Jiang Nan (Shanghai-region cuisine) at Yong Yi Ting. Besides cracking dim sum, expect firm favourites such as Wu Xi style braised pork ribs and beggar’s chicken. Never fear though: there are ample opportunities to work off those extra bits of indulgence – strolling through the frescoed lobby, towards the front entrance – after all, all of Shanghai is at your feet.
Doubles from 2,400 RMB, mandarinoriental.com
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您刚刚有没有看见明星Kate Moss? 或许吧。首次在北京亮相登场的W酒 店,其浓厚的时尚意识没有几家能与 之媲美。在这个历史悠久的城市的新 地域里,汇聚高端时尚的风格以及动 感欢快的夜生活,还有许多戏剧化的 东西,包括受中国风格启发,以红、 黑、金色为主调的大堂、LED地幕秀 台以及许多霓虹灯舞台灯效(包括客 房里的床头板也有灯效),跟中性色 调的木质地板、墙壁和面料相映成趣。 不管是室内游泳池,还是酒店大堂, 帅哥美女随处可见。虽然长安街没有 大量的酒吧和餐厅,可是距离一些主 要的景点如故宫仅数步之遥。另外还 有一个凑热闹必去的地方就是W酒店 里的X25酒吧,一边享用美酒一边尽 赏北京城墙和北京天际线的壮美景观。 精彩的派对不止于此,上海浦东的W 酒店将于2016年年初开业。
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W for wonderful
双人房每晚人民币1,500元起。
W’S BRILLIANT EXTERIOR IS MATCHED BY A CHIC INTERIOR
W, BEIJING Did you just see Kate Moss? Maybe. Because for the fashion-conscious jetsetter, there’s nowhere quite like the W. And now that it has debuted in Beijing, there’s no excuse for not staying up late with the well-heeled crowd in this ancient city’s new fun pad. Think high gloss, high funk, and plenty of theatricality – a red, black and gold Chinese-inspired lobby, culminating in an LED catwalk, and plenty of neon disco lighting (including on your bedroom’s headboard) to offset otherwise neutral wood floors, walls and fabrics. Paddle around the indoor pool or putter around the lobby, where good-looking people are almost always to be found. While the Chang’an embassy district is snooze-ville (by some standards) when it comes to bars and restaurants, you are reasonably close to some of the main sights such as the Imperial Palace. But besides, the only place you really need to head to rub shoulders with the chichi crowd is the W’s very own X25 bar, where you’ll overlook city walls, soaking up Beijing’s skyline like osmosis as you sink drinks. The party doesn’t end there, though – Shanghai’s new Pudong branch is set to follow in early 2016.
Doubles from 1,500 RMB, starwoodhotels.com
NE W HOTEL S 126 THE CASTLE, DALIAN Who wouldn’t want to stay in something that looks like it’s out of a fairytale? And while the epic castle-on-a-hill might seem more Disney than burgeoning Dalian, know that it’s also a relic from days gone by – built a whole decade ago and partly used as the local shell museum (how quaint) before being snapped up by Starwood. The hotel group has, admittedly, gone full-scale-European-turn-of-the-centuryglamour on the place, and the feat is nothing short of impressive. Subtle, however, it is not. Overlooking Xinghai Bay and the Yellow Sea from Lianhua Mountain, it drips indulgence, from the turrets down to the wrought-ironlined marble staircase, gold statues wielding candelabras, and enormous sparkling chandeliers. There’s a green lawn yawning out to sea, punctuated with perfect manicured hedges, and possibly more eating options than you could hope to visit – including an onsite brewery, high-tea cafe, and a restaurant specialising in Dalian seafood. The 2,000 square metre Kaiser Spa is a spend-all-day kind of affair; it even features a Mahjong room for post-treatment chilling, in case the hydrotherapy pool, massages or sauna were too strenuous. Crown your stay off like any true Prince or Princess would do – with an evening in the Aristocrat bar, relishing rare cognacs, whiskeys and cigars.
Doubles from 1,000 RMB, starwoodhotels.com
一方城堡豪华精选 酒店-大连 谁不向往童话般的城堡?这座位处山 上的一方城堡脱离了大连的影子,像进 入了迪斯尼的世界。不过在您敲门之 前,来了解一下它昔日的历史——建 筑是在整整十年前被建造的,在被喜 达屋酒店及度假村国际集团购买之前, 曾经是当地的贝壳博物馆(真够古色 古香)。酒店集团将其打造成富有浓 厚欧洲风情的豪华酒店,坐落于莲花 山上可俯瞰星海湾和黄海胜景,不仅 拥有美丽的景色,一方城堡的一切尽 是奢华,从塔楼到大理石阶梯、金碧 辉煌的烛台,还有闪闪发光的巨型吊 灯。正对着大海的是一块草坪,伴有 被精心修剪整齐的树篱。这里的美食 选择比您想象中的要多,包括啤酒坊、 下午茶咖啡厅,和一家主打大连海鲜的 餐厅。合共2,000平米的芳香圣所凯撒 水疗中心是让您可以待上一整天的地 方,万一宾客觉得水疗池、按摩服务 或是桑拿太费劲,这里甚至设有麻将 房供完成疗程的宾客作放松身心之用。 住在一方城堡就像真正的王子公主一 样,享受极致的奢华,晚上还可以到 贵弈廊Aristocrat品味珍稀的干邑、威 士忌和雪茄。
双人房每晚人民币1,000元起。
No magic trick IT LOOKS LIKE SOMETHING FROM A DISNEY MOVIE, BUT IT’S REAL AND READY FOR YOUR STAY
All-round class
PARK HYATT, HAINAN SANYA BAY
太阳湾柏悦酒店 -三亚 享有“中国夏威夷”美誉的海南岛 确实非常壮观迷人。海水澄碧、纯白 海沙,现在加上超豪华的度假屋,还 需要长途跋涉到访那个真正的夏威夷 吗?在海南岛的最南端,三亚湾汇聚 最奢华的一切,海水仿如晶莹剔透 的蓝宝石,海沙如雪花一般细绵雪 白。柏悦酒店背后的理念并不仅是建 设一家酒店而已,而是“海边私人府
邸”。207间雅适并俱的客房和别墅 横跨75万平方英尺的典雅建筑,坐 拥南中国海的壮丽景色,就算客房全 部爆满也不会有丝毫的拥挤感。酒店 还有5个游泳池和6家餐厅及酒吧。至 于这里的热带天堂的美景,就连在房 间的浴室也能把它们尽收眼底。浴室 设有大型花洒淋浴与经打磨的大理 石浴缸,泡澡时还能把全景窗打开, 浸泡在专属于您的奢华时刻。
双人房每晚人民币2,300元起。
It’s too often called the Chinese answer to Hawaii, but in truth Hainan is pretty spectacular. Magnificent tropical blues, white sand beaches, and now a raft of super-luxury resorts; it begs the question, why bother even trekking to the island which gave it its nickname? On the southernmost tip of the island, Sanya Bay is where most of the luxe buildings are going up – the spectacular aquamarine tones of the water have something to do with it; the alabaster stretch of secluded sand, too. The idea behind the Park Hyatt is that it isn’t a hotel – oh, no – but a ‘private mansion by the sea’. One with 207 rooms, it so happens, and views of the South China Sea, five swimming pools and umpteen (OK, six) restaurants and bars. Mind you, the Park Hyatt does also have space – 750,000 square feet of it – so even with a full house, you’ll never feel stifled. And as for those views out to that tropical paradise that brought you here – well, you’ll never have to leave them for long. Even the bathrooms, garnished with large rainfall-shower and buffed marble, have panoramic windows that can be opened for viewing while you soak in the oversized tub.
Doubles from 2,300 RMB, sanya.park.hyatt.com
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GRAND IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT AT THE LAVISH PARK HYATT SANYA BAY
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博舍-成都
庭院。跟其他姊妹酒店一样,格调 低调而奢华,秉承服务之上的理 好 吧 , 这 家 酒 店 其 实 还 没 开 念,无论您是下榻博舍一个晚上还是 业 , 预 计 将 于 2 0 1 5 年 的 6 月 份 一个月(它们也提供服务式住宅),酒 才 开 张 所 以 严 格 来 说 不 能 放 在 店也为每位宾客精心打造个性化的专 这 里 介 绍 。 不 过 凭 着 集 团 旗 属体验。这里距离成都的历史文化区 下 的 其 他 姊 妹 酒 店 , 比 如 别 具 风 格 的 仅咫尺之遥,包括锦里古街,以茶室 北 京 瑜 舍 或 是 很 酷 的 香 港 奕 居 , 和四川美食如荞麦面和牛肚火锅而广 便 能 推 测 博 舍 也 是 同 样 的 豪 华 别 致 。 为闻名。众多当地美食近在咫尺,或 位于成都市中心新建的文化商业综 许这是促成酒店提供异国美食的原因, 合 体 , 邻 近 拥 有 千 年 历 史 的 古 大 慈 博舍的Tivano餐厅提供意大利菜肴, 寺 , 酒 店 内 设 1 0 0 间 客 房 , 把 中 国 千万不能错过它家的石烧比萨。 传统的建筑元素融入现代时尚的设 计当中,如木材、砖瓦、石板小径 以及竹子,还有拥有百年历史的清朝 双人房每晚价格待定。
THE TEMPLE HOUSE, CHENGDU Okay, so this one’s a bit of a cheat – it’s not yet open, and isn’t due to be until June 2015. However, if its sister hotels are anything to go by – uber-stylish The Opposite House in Beijing, and cool The Upper House in Hong Kong – this is a luxe hotel you’ll be wanting to get on board with seriously early. Based in Chengdu’s heart in a new shopping and business complex near the thousand-year-old Daci Temple, the 100-room hotel blends modern design with traditional local architectural styles – timber, brick, step stones and bamboo will feature, as will a restored hundred-yearold Qing Dynasty courtyard. The vibe here, as with the sister ‘houses’, is luxury understated, with a real emphasis on service – every detail is tailored down to the individual guest, whether you’re staying for a night or a month (they’ll have apartments, too). You’re just moments from Chengdu’s historic district, including historic Jinli street, famous for its teahouses and Sichuan specialties including buckwheat noodles and ox-tripe hotpot. Which is why, perhaps, that the hotel plans to go distinctly exotic with its culinary offering – Tivano, the in-house restaurant, is going to be an Italian eatery, a definite go-to for stone-fired pizzas.
Prices TBC thetemplehousehotel.com Chengdu comfort THE TEMPLE HOUSE WILL FEATURE THE UTMOST IN CONTEMPORARY LUXURY
Natural Attraction
Sydney 60 Pitt Street T. 02 9247 6344
Melbourne
HIGHER VIEW
119 Swanston Street T. 03 9662 3524
www.nationalopal.com
HIGHER VIEW
www.facebook.com/MDTdesigns www.facebook.com/MDTdesigns
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COOL CAT
个性猫眼 GP芝柏表经典猫眼系列腕表再添迷人新表款。腕表拥有其系列标 志性的椭圆形猫眼外壳,采用22克拉玫瑰金制作,表圈镶嵌62颗明 亮式切割钻石,并配以珍珠母贝表盘。 Girard-Perregaux gives us a seductive new version of its iconic Cat’s Eye collection. Its features include a motherof-pearl dial with its perimeter adorned with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds, a Cat’s Eye case and 22-carat pink gold disc. girard-perregaux.com
NEWS
Most wanted
EVERYTHING LUXURY, FROM COLLECTORS’ ITEMS TO CUSTOM-MADE DESIGNER PIECES
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中国影星范冰冰也加入萧邦的大家庭,在一系列新的广告宣传里完美演绎 “萧邦女人”的风范——自信、优雅、勇敢。
PEARLS OF WISDOM
Chopard welcomes actress Fan Bing Bing to its family. The star of the brand’s new advertisements embodies the assurance, elegance and boldness of a Chopard woman. chopard.com
PASPALEY全新推出TOUCHSTONE系列,受澳大利亚南海的热带野生环境所启 发,南海也是PASPALEY珍珠的产地。系列中的每一件饰品都有PASPALEY南海 珍珠,配以丛林绿沙弗来石(TSAVORITES)和血红宝石。 售价待定。 Paspaley’s new Touchstone Collection evokes a taste of the wild tropical environment of Australia’s South Sea, where the Paspaley pearls are born. Pieces feature jungle green tsavorites and blood red rubies alongside their signature pearl. Paspaley Touchstone rings POA, paspaley.com
Higher roller 劳斯莱斯为幻影系列增添了新成员——大都会典藏版,设计灵感来源于现 代大都市,体现出桥车界的极致奢华。 Trying something a little different, Rolls-Royce has a new addition to its Phantom line: the Metropolitan Collection. The new collection is set to be a city camouflage of the Phantom – the ultimate expression of wealth in the automotive world – although we can still see it turning heads. rolls-roycemotorcars.com
TWO IN ONE 英国著名品牌MULBERRY推出全新美感与实用性兼备的DELPHIE系列, 满足现代女性不同的需求。包款的前盖可以翻转使用,另一面是颜色 对比鲜明的皮革,呈现截然不同的新样貌。售价待定。 Mulberry’s new Delphie bag is a practical and elegant piece for the modern on-the-go woman. The handy bag can be flipped over to reveal a contrasting leather and colour for a different look. POA, mulberry.com
TAKE FIVE...
Heaven scent
Designer sneakers
NEWS
宝格丽以意大利南部为灵感,全 新推出艳阳水能量男性淡香水。 香水瓶身呈棕色,形状仿如海滩 上的一颗卵石,散发着温暖的柑 橘香味。售价$73。 The balmy, volcanic shores of Southern Italy have inspired a new men’s fragrance, Bulgari Aqua Amara. Its smooth brown bottle, shaped like a beach pebble, holds a warm, citrusy scent. From $73, bulgari.com
Giuseppe Zanotti, $1,550, giuseppezanottidesign.com
133 Adidas, $160, adidas.com.au
LUXURY LIVING
Buscemi, $1,636, jonbuscemi.com
皇冠房地产集团在悉尼内西区艾士菲(ASHFIELD)新建住宅项目CROWN ASHFIELD, 由业界翘楚TURNER建筑事务所操刀设计。CROWN ASHFIELD将成为内城区的一片绿洲,提供优 质便利的生活享受。房型包括单间公寓、一房以及两房公寓,预计将于2015年5月推出市场。 注册购买意向请访问CROWNGROUP.COM.AU。 Design by multi-award winning Turner architects, Crown Ashfield is oasis-inspired living with innovative home solutions. Offering studios, one-bedroom and two-bedroom apartments, this new outlook is set to redefine inner-city living and goes to market May 2015. Register now at crowngroup.com.au
Over the moon
Versace, $1,700, versace.com
奉行“少即多”的设计理念,万宝龙大班传承 系列月相腕表,对月相和日期进行完美演绎, 洋溢着时尚隽永之气息。售价$17,600。 Taking a ‘less is more’ approach, Montblanc’s Meisterstrück Heritage Moonphase is a classical and timeless interpretation of the moon phase and date. The watch exudes a strong and sophisticated presence on the wrist. $17,600, montblanc.com
Giuseppe Zanotti, $1,688, giuseppezanottidesign.com
FA S H I O N
Shoes, Common Projects, $601, commonprojects.com
Tie, Paul Smith & Accessories, $132, paulsmith.co.uk
Tie, Dunhill, $206, dunhill.com
Wallet, Want Les Essentiels De La Vie, $173, wantessentiels.com
Shirt, Wooster + Lardini, $173, lardini.it/en
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Sweater, Calvin Klein, $708, calvinklein.com
Suit, Boglioli, $1,310, boglioli.it
Suit, Billy Reid, $898 billyreid.com
Boys in blue
WARM UP THIS WINTER IN THE COLOUR OF THE SEASON
Sunglasses, Eye Van 7285, $572, eyevan7285.com
Tie, Berluti, $247, berluti.com
Belt, Loro Piana, $503, loropiana.com
Shoes, Thom Browne, $1,624, thombrowne.com
Stella Maris College 是一所悉尼当地的知名私立女子中学。 每年,学校会分配5%的名额给来自世界各地的小留学生们。 她们有幸地在这所历史悠久的学校求学, 从青涩羞怯到自信坚强,从懵懂稚嫩到睿智成熟, 学会尊重,理解,感恩,和责任。这里是他们梦想起飞的地方。 52 Eurobin Avenue Manly | +612 9976 1876 www.stellamaris.nsw.edu.au 详情可至邮件到 jiani_chen@stellamaris.nsw.edu.au
inclusive innovative inspiring
FA S H I O N
Ring, Chloe $270, chloe.com
Jacket, Marc Jacobs, $3,268, marcjacobs.com
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Jacket, Sacai, $2,471, sacai.jp
Jacket, Balmain, $5,462, balmain.com
Call of duty
Bag, Saint Laurent, $1,624, ysl.com/au Cuff, Valentino, $268, valentino.com/au
MILITARY-INSPIRED PIECES DOMINATE THE RUNWAY Bracelet, Lanvin, $887, lanvin.com Necklace, Rosantica, $1,291, rosantica.com/en
Cuff, Valentino, $355,valentino.com/au
Cuff, Balenciaga, $385, balenciaga.com
Skirt, Balmain, $2,493, balmain.com
Shoes, Balmain, $2,610, balmain.com
Cuff, Givenchy, $1,425, givenchy.com
sweet dreams BE AUT Y
英国伦敦品牌THIS WORKS睡眠喷雾有效对抗从时差而来的失 眠状况。天然配方有助缓解神经紧张以及消除身心疲劳,提 高睡眠质量。售价$48。 Beat jet lag with This Works Sleep Plus Pillow Spray. The natural remedy aims to soothe the body and mind, preparing you for a good night’s sleep. $48, thisworks.com
Three’s a charm
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飞行途中
欧舒丹的天使草水盈 保湿喷雾(售价$15) 瞬间为肌肤注入大量 水份,缓解肌肤干 渴。轻轻一喷,极速 为肌肤补充水分,让 您的肌肤沁涼无比。
Travel light ESSENTIAL BEAUTY PRODUCTS THAT WILL HAVE YOU WALKING OFF A LONG HAUL FLIGHT LOOKING FRESH FACED AND WELL RESTED
Calm down 无论是因为飞行而感到不适或是来自只身一人旅游的紧 张感,AESOP都能帮您缓解一切的神经紧张。只需把成 分天然的苏活生姜油涂在太阳穴、手腕、耳后和腹部的 脉搏处,便能消除飞行途中的不适和疲倦。 售价$31。 Whether you are a nervous flyer – or happen to be travelling with one – it’s never pleasant, so let Aesop help calm the nerves. Apply Ginger Flight Therapy to your pulse points – temples, wrists, behind the ears and abdomen – when you’re feeling overwhelmed and allow the natural ingredients to lend a much needed sensory lift to enliven your spirit. $31, aesop.com.au
In-f light... Stay hydrated with L’occitane’s Angelica Hydra Vital Face Mist ($15). A couple of sprays instantly refresh and hydrate the skin.
登陆后
质地幼滑细腻,香味 清新的天使草水盈磨 砂啫喱(售价$32)
能深层清除老化角 质,有效促进肌肤 微循环,重拾明亮 光彩。
Upon landing... With its pearly glow, fresh scent and melting texture, the Angelica Exfoliating Gel ($32) instantly revives tired skin removing grime and dead skin cells.
早上和晚间
旅游时千万别放弃日 常的美肤程序。天鹅 绒般柔滑的天使草水 盈保湿啫喱(售价 $52)促进水分循环
以及改善水分平衡, 是打造魅力肌肤的不 二之选。
Morning and night... Don’t throw your beauty regime out the window when travelling. Velvety and silky smooth, the Hydra Vital Cream ($52) helps enhance the skin’s self-hydration ability throughout the day. au.loccitane.com
BRIGHT EYES 旅游途中眼睛常常会出现浮肿或黑眼圈,现在就可以跟 它们说再见了!LA MER的全新海蓝之谜亮白眼胶瞬间提 亮眼部肌肤,质地清爽不油腻,保护娇柔双眼免受高空 环境侵害,有效修复因疲劳和压力带来的痕迹,缔造明 亮双眸。 Say au revoir to the puffy, dark eyes we all fall victim to when travelling. La Mer’s new The Illuminating Eye Gel treatment instantly lights up your eyes. The refreshing gel uses antioxidants to protect skin against ageing effects of high altitude environments, fatigue and stress, while an illuminating ferment that provides an effortless glowing look. cremedelamer.com.au
Student living space
Residential courtyard
Student accomodation
Dining and social space
Boarding returns to Wesley To open in 2016, this exciting, multipurpose, senior years (Years 10-12) residential development will be a dynamic and diverse community, providing a vibrant and safe environment to stimulate the intellectual, emotional, physical, social, cultural and spiritual development of the students in residence. Wesley’s international reputation for academic excellence will be further enhanced by this residential experience. For further information please contact Carolyn Roney, Admissions Manager, International and Learning in Residence, carolyn.roney@wesleycollege.net or telephone + 61 3 8102 6617.
CRICOS 00354G ABN 38 994 063 473
Elsternwick • Glen Waverley • St Kilda Road
C e l e b r a t i n g 15 0 y e a r s 18 6 6 – 2 016
Back to basics Tod’s Spring/Summer 2015 RTW Collection is day-to-day sophistication with a modern twist
极简艺术 Tod’s 2015春夏高级 成衣系列简约时尚, 实用与美观兼具
LEATHER JACKET $5,665, COTTON/SILK BLEND TROUSERS $795, GOLD PLATED RINGS $345, TOD’S FLOWER BAG $2,115
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LEATHER SHIRT $1,505, DENIM TROUSERS $1,575, GOLD PLATED BRACELET $945, TOD’S CAPE BAG $2,495, “PARROT” BAG CHARM $295
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SILK BLEND SINGLET TOP $690, LEATHER SKIRT $4,425, GOLD PLATED RING $345, TOD’S BUCKET BAG $2,305
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TOD’S CAPE BAG FROM $2,115
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TOD’S FLOWER BAG FROM $1,705
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LEATHER JACKET $6,195, SILK BLEN SINGLET TOP $690, DENIM TROUSER $1,575, GOLD PLATED RING $375, TOD’S CAPE BAG $2,115, BAG CHARM $295
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LEATHER TOP $5,135, COTTON/SILK SHORT $795 TOD’S READY-TO -WEAR AVAILABLE BY SPECIAL ORDER AND ALL TOD’S ACCESSORIES AVAILABLE AT TOD’S WESTFIELD SYDNEY, SHOP 3035, LEVEL 3, 188 PITT STREET SYDNEY. CALL 02 8203 0901 tods.com
SYDNEY
COUNTRY LIVING
现代恢宏的农场庄园,新南威尔士州猎人谷梅里华区 坐落于上猎人谷梅里华区优质的养殖和农业基地,殿堂级地标物业“Tawarri”是澳大利亚东区最高端奢华的理想大宅, 拥有无与伦比的质量,重要性以及多功能性。占地约1,300公顷(3,212英亩),庄园内还设有牛牧场以及度假式的配 套设施,是得天独厚的上猎人谷区中的一块瑰宝。 • 楼阁式设计的大宅、客宅以及阁楼住屋 • 会客大厅、网球场、游泳池及健身房 • 设有农场、19个小围场 、年降雨量800-850毫米 • 冲积平原、玄武岩土壤、能容纳2,000匹马的马厩 • 40兆升水权、永久河边地域、水源充足、水坝 • 飞机跑道、停机坪、11英亩葡萄园、10英亩花坛式花园 • 整座庄园在建设与开发中的设计、建筑以及建设基础设施的成本 已为$1,800万
意向登记 请联系我们的负责人: Brian McMillan +61 488 555 655 Sally Taylor +61 411 216 462 中介名称: Sydney Country Living
只接受预约看房
牛仔魅力 汇聚多个奢侈品牌的Harrolds 是Tom Ford时装在澳大利亚的 独家经销商,全新推出该品牌的 2015春夏男装系列
It’s in the jeans Harrolds, exclusive Australian stockist of Tom Ford Fashion, introduces the brand’s 2015 Spring/ Summer Menswear Collection
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All looks available from Harrolds MELBOURNE 101 COLLINS ST, PH: +61386607888 (MENSWEAR) SYDNEY WESTFIELD SYDNEY, LEVEL 3, 188 PITT ST PH: +61292328399 (MENSWEAR) WESTFIELD SYDNEY, LEVEL 4, 188 PITT ST PH: +61292102500 (WOMENSWEAR)
harrolds.com.au
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百分之百
Calling the
shots
John Skilbeck takes a close look at the growth of Chinese snooker and the superstar who has been leading the way since he was a teenager: Ding Junhui
有赢过任何一项世界赛, 我会感到非常惊讶。因为 他真的是很厉害。” 丁 出 生 在 江 苏 宜 兴,现居英国的雪菲 尔(Sheffield),这里从 1977年起便举行世界斯诺 克台球锦标赛,而且汇聚 了很多年轻的华人球手。 丁是他们当中的“一哥”, 拥有头衔、粉丝团以及财 富。可是纵然台球的未来 已握在他的手中,他还是 个十分谦卑的人。 或许丁也没有意识到 自己已经为他所爱的运动 注入了新的活力,改变了 世界台球球坛的格局。 2009年年末,台球 这个项目日渐式微,台球 产业陷入萎靡泥潭。一直 到6次世锦赛的冠军得主 Steve Davis的经理Barry
“不管气势有多高扬、手臂 多有力,台球员若没有精 确性就没有机会”
P
recision. Without precision, a snooker player stands no chance. Never mind the strength in the cueing arm, never mind the swagger. Settle for the slightest deviation in exactitude and settle for failure. Kiss goodbye that daydream of holding aloft the World Championship trophy, the fame, the fortune and the adulation. If you can’t be precise, try this advice: watch a master at work. Ding Junhui, China’s phenomenon in the art of cueing, cast a furtive glance at struggling snooker players as a boy and wondered what their fussing was about. From nine years old, Ding exhibited such instinctive dexterity there was little doubt his trajectory would lead to the very top. “If you look at Ding Junhui, I’d be flabbergasted if he never wins a world title,” says John Higgins, the four-time champion, “Because he’s that good.”
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KING DING Ding grew up in Yixing, in Jiangsu province, and today lives in Sheffield, England, host city to snooker’s World Championship since 1977, and home to a community of young Chinese players. Ding is their kingpin, the man with the titles, the fan club, the fortune. He is the humble man holding snooker’s future in his hands. And perhaps without realising it, Ding has already given his beloved sport the kiss of life. In late 2009, professional snooker stood downtrodden and at a crossroads, its tour decimated by inertia. It was drifting towards obscurity – until brassy impresario Barry Hearn, the long-time manager of six-time world champion Steve Davis, stepped in with a vision. Soon snooker was looking far beyond the crumbling town halls and sterile leisure centres of England. Ding held superstar status in China, where snooker clubs were opening like lemonade stands in a heat wave, and the
Perfectionist DING JUNHAI PLAYS A SHOT AT THE WORLD SNOOKER BANK OF COMMUNICATIONS OTO SHANGHAI MASTERS 2014
PEOPLE
精
确性。不管气 势有多高扬、 手臂多有力, 台球员若没有精确性就没 有机会。稍微的偏差就会 引来失败,也就不必妄想 高举世界锦标赛的奖杯、 名气与财富以及别人对您 的阿谀奉承。如果您不够 精确,那就建议您看看大 师带给您的示范。 中国著名斯诺克台球 手丁俊晖,被誉为台球界 的神童,小时候曾在旁边 偷看苦苦挣扎后希望打出 好球的台球手。从九岁起, 丁就展示出他的天赋,而 这份得天独厚的禀赋无疑 在他日后登上世界顶尖球 手之列助上一臂之力。 赢得四次冠军的John Higgins说道,“以丁俊 晖的球技,如果他从来没
Photographs Getty Images
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Hearn把愿景带进台球界。 时的张力和紧张感,这是 台球很快便不仅局 其他地方所不能复制的。 限于市政厅和娱乐中心。 Ferguson笑着说, 丁 拥 有 中 国 之 星 的 地 位 ,“ 几 年 之 后 我 回 到 中 国 , 也因此使台球俱乐部数量 他们跟我说,‘您还记 增长迅猛。从商的Hearn 得之前说过世锦赛要在 紧紧抓住这个机会翻转台 Crucible球馆内举行吗? 球不堪的局面。 我们建了一个Crucible球 从此,中国在“台球 馆。现在我们能举办世界 重生”中占据了很重要的 锦标赛了吗?’。” 一部分。 这 份 执 着 和 坚 持 Jason Ferguson是世 真的不是开玩笑而已。 界职业台球协会的主席。 他们在北京建设了跟原来 对于Ferguson而言,中国 Crucible球馆的设置、体 成为了他的第二个家。 积都一模一样的复制品。 “丁俊晖在中国家传 户 晓 , ” F e r g u s o n 说 , 中国预备好了 “他是国家的英雄,也因此 中 国 从 此 只 需 静 候 等 待 , 帮助了我们把这项运动提 等到叱咤风云、掌握大权 升到更高的层次。” 的Hearn不再监管这项运 在2014/15年度的赛 动为止。 季中有7场比赛在中国举 Hearn说中国的台球 行,将来在中国举办的场 推动者愿意以“重量级的 数只会越来越多。 赎金”来换取世界锦标 大量中国优质的球手 赛。可是现在他还没有出 蜂拥而至英国的同时,中 售的意愿。 国也制造出世界上最精致 在中国合计有4.26亿 的台球桌,把它们海运到 的电视观众观赏2014年的 国外。 赛事,赛事是在大部分人 这样做有些什么回报 已经熟睡的时段进行,可 呢?有些人觉得回报率不 是 仍 然 有 如 此 惊 人 的 数 够高。 字。我们把它称为一鸣惊 中国选手在世界锦标 人好了。 赛夺魁之前,中国能否有 机会举办世界锦标赛?这 可是为何会如此激情? 个问题是经常被提问。理 Ferguson 说,“台球手 论上要到2018年才会有争 需要具有最好的一切好的 取举办此项赛事的机会。 条件:要赢,必需具备极 Ferguson和Hearn 强的精神力量。我认为这 也亲身经历到来钓他们这 是一项孤独、单打独斗的 条“大鱼”的人的决心越 运动。是一场艰辛的角 发坚定以及他们所下的功 斗。” 夫越来越有说服力。 “估计这是中国人喜爱 “我们在中国的合 这项运动的原因。” 作伙伴问我,‘我们何时 “有别于一般的体力运 能举办世界锦标赛?’,” 动,您可以大喊、尖叫以 Ferguson说,“我不得 及咆哮。台球需要十足的 不告诉他们,赛事必须在 精神力量,而且每一球在 Crucible球馆内举行。” 技术上都要求完美。” Crucible球馆的馆内 丁在2013/14赛季共取 设置非常有亲密性,坐在 得5项冠军,于2014年12 前排的观众仿如参与在其 月首次登上世界排名第一 中,保证能体会比赛进行 的宝座。
Fame and fortune DING MAY HAVE THE TROPHY’S, FANS AND FAME BUT HE REMAINS A HUMBLE MAN
businessman in Hearn caught the whiff of opportunity. Ever since, China has played a monumental role in the regeneration of the sport. Jason Ferguson is chairman of the World Professional Billiards and Snooker Association. For Ferguson, China has become a second home. “Ding Junhui is enormous in China,” Ferguson says. “He is a national hero, and as a result it has helped us lift the sport to another level out there.” Seven tournaments have been contested in China in the 2014/15 season, with the promise of more to come. Additionally, China crafts the world’s most exquisite snooker tables and ships great crates of them overseas, while its best young players have largely flocked to England. What does it receive in return? Some feel not enough. Will China stage a World Championship before it has a world champion? The question has been often asked. The tournament is theoretically up for grabs from 2018. Ferguson and Hearn are witnessing increasingly determined and persuasive efforts to hook their big fish. “Our partners in China asked me, ‘When can we have the World Championship?’” Ferguson says. “I had to tell them, ‘It’s staying at the Crucible.’” The intimacy of the Crucible theatre, where those in the front rows feel palpably involved, guarantees tension that stalwarts contend could not be recreated elsewhere. Ferguson laughs, and says: “I went back to China a couple of years later and they said, ‘Oh, by the way, you know how you said the Worlds is staying at the Crucible? Well… we’ve built the Crucible. Now can we have the World Championship?’” It was not a joke but a stunning statement of intent. A replica and full-size Crucible had indeed been constructed in Beijing.
CHINA IS READY For now though, China is tactfully waiting, perhaps for when stewardship of the sport passes out of Hearn’s all-powerful hands. Hearn says Chinese promoters would pay “a king’s ransom” for the World Championship. Just now, he isn’t selling. The 2014 tournament had an aggregate television audience of 426 million in China – astounding given the action is played out while most are asleep. Let’s call it an overnight success. “Snooker has the best of everything: it has the aspect of the mental strength that’s required to win in what I would consider to be a solitary sport, a one-to-one
sport. It’s very gladiatorial,” Ferguson says. “It’s that side of it that seems to be loved by the Chinese people. “It’s not a physical sport where you can shout, scream and growl at everything. You’ve got to contain that mental power and be technically perfect on every shot.” Ding captured a record-equalling five major ranking titles in the 2013/14 season. In December 2014 he rose to number one in the world for the first time. Yet by March 2015 he remained China’s only trophy winner, with compatriots Liang Wenbo and Xiao Guodong the closest to joining him. Ding deprived Xiao of a breakthrough triumph when dominating their tussle for the 2013 Shanghai Masters title. Beyond that established trio, a pair of 17-year-olds, Lyu Haotian from Beijing and Chengdu’s Zhou Yuelong, are earmarked for prosperous futures. Meanwhile, tens of thousands of game enthusiasts pick up a cue each week, out of love. Beijing has an astonishing 1,500 snooker clubs, Shanghai a further 1,200. The cream of the talent is being nurtured at an academy in the capital, which has already produced 14-year-old Yan Bingtao, the youngest ever world amateur champion. “It’s essential to us that new Chinese talent gets the chance to come through,” Ferguson says.
“ Y O U ’ V E G O T T O C O N TA I N T H AT M E N TA L P O W E R A N D B E T E C H N I C A L LY P E R F E C T ON EVERY SHOT”
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High hopes THE LAST ACCOLADE DING WANTS TO TICK OFF HIS LIST IS THE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP
“台球需要十足的精神力量, 而且每一球在技术上 都要求完美”
STILL THE ONE Ding remains the man of the moment. Ferguson calls him “one of the great sportsmen in the world”. He is unmistakably a decent man, clean-living and polite – and a fiend of a potter. Bewildered opponent Mark King said after a World Championship masterclass that Ding “was on a different planet, and when he’s hitting the ball like that I don’t think anyone can get near him, even Ronnie.” He has a dry sense of humour and his vice is video gaming. Nothing for the authorities to worry about there. The accolades continue to stack up, yet it would be remiss to tip-toe around one curious absence from Ding’s list of achievements. As he headed to the 2015 World Championship, Ding had still yet to reach a Crucible final. He has always had something of a prickly relationship with the tournament, and blamed the crowd after one painful early defeat, smarting: “I was concentrating on the game and they kept shouting out. How can they do that?” But he recognises that snooker’s ultimate test has a exposed his few faults. For one thing, sleep-loving Ding detests morning sessions, and they are simply unavoidable at the World Championship. “At every round you need to be at your best, and only then you can win the tournament,” Ding says. “If not, you have no chance.” He is determined to crack the Crucible code, however, and knows the wrong turns so well that he must soon locate the corridor that leads to glory. China, one suspects, is also playing a skilful long game that will bring rich reward. Ultimately, the difference between snooker success and failure again comes down to precision. Not the laser precision of Ding planting a red in a pocket, plotting the cue ball’s route to the colour and repeating the process, but the vital precision of approach and the imperturbable temperament required to cope with relentless drama; fundamentally the readiness to scale the mountain and reach out for destiny at the summit. ◆
PEOPLE
可是至2015年3月份 是至今却还没有成功打进 为止,他仍然是中国唯一 于英国Crucible场馆举行 一位赢得奖杯的球员,同 的总决赛。 胞梁文博与肖国栋是实力 他与此项赛事有着棘 最接近丁的两位球手。在 手的关系,这是来自早期 2013年上海大师赛,肖打 一场痛苦的失败经历,并 进决赛,力战丁俊晖,不 且 要 怪 罪 在 观 赛 的 群 众 过最终还是丁夺得了大师 上。这件事让丁记忆犹新, 赛冠军。 “当时我正在专注比赛,他 除了这三位为人所知 们却不停大喊。怎么能够 的球员之外,还有一对17 这样呢?” 岁的新进球手——北京人 不过他还认为这项台 呂昊天和来自成都的周跃 球手的终极考验刚好抓住 龙,他们都被看好前途一 了他的几个弱点。其中一 片光明。成千上万的球赛 个是喜欢睡觉的他讨厌上 爱好者每周都会挥动球杆 午时段,而世界锦标赛正 一次。 正是在上午举行的。 北京有1,500个台球俱 如丁所说,“每一球 乐部,上海有1,200个,这 都要发挥得淋漓尽致,那 是个惊人的数目。 您就可以赢得胜利。不然, 有潜质的新人被安排 您就没机会了。” 在位于首都的学院里受培 他已下定决心破解 训,学院已经成功培育年 历年来未能成功闯进 仅14岁的颜丙涛,成为最 Crucible场馆举行的世锦 年轻的选手赢得世界业余 赛决赛的历史,从过往的 锦标赛冠军。 错误失败中吸取教训,从 Ferguson说道,“对 而纠正过来,定能让他踏 我们而言新人有机会发挥 上成功荣耀之路。中国现 是十分重要的。” 在也玩起了这个能带来丰 丁 仍 然 是 焦 点 人 富奖励但技术性要求极高 物。Ferguson称他为“ 的漫长游戏。 世界上其中一位最棒的运 最终是否能成为一名 动员”。他是一个正直、 成功的台球手还是要取决 有 礼 以 及 生 活 简 洁 健 康 于精确性。这里说的精确 的人。 并不是丁那种如激光一样 他很幽默却又不形于 准确的把红球给打进袋里, 色,喜欢电子游戏就是他 或是策划母球击上颜色球 的“恶行”,这没有什么 的路线,而是拥有冷静的 让人担心的。 性情去应对种种戏剧般的 丁累积的奖项和荣誉 状况;随时准备好面对如 越来越多,在云云成就中 登山一样艰辛的苦战,然 却好像缺少了什么。丁即 后在登峰之处把命运紧紧 将参加2015年世锦赛,可 抓住。◆
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Chinese snooker history 1986
Snooker is riding the crest of a wave after Dennis Taylor’s celebrated 1985 World Championship triumph, and promoter Barry Hearn creates an exhibition tournament, the China Masters, in Shanghai featuring Taylor, his Crucible final victim Steve Davis, Terry Griffiths and three players from Asia. Davis takes the honours, beating Griffiths in the final. The first seeds of a snooker revolution are sown.
年仅14岁的丁俊晖在上海中国公开赛中首次亮相职业赛,并于 外卡圈中败给未来前三甲的Mark Selby。同年稍后,15岁的丁 在21岁以下亚洲青年锦标赛上夺魁。
2005
Entering on a wild card again, Ding wins the China Open as a 17-year-old, beating snooker’s most decorated player, Stephen Hendry, 9-5 in the final. He ends the year by thrillingly landing the UK Championship title in York, where he topples veteran Davis in the final.
Dennis Taylor赢得1985年世界锦标赛冠军后,台球运动到达了 巅峰。台球推动者Barry Hearn在中国上海创办了表演赛——中 国大师赛。参赛者包括Taylor以及他在Crucible决赛的对手 Steve Davis、Terry Griffiths以及来自亚洲的三位选手。最终 Davis在决赛打败Griffiths取得佳冠。这样便种下斯诺克台球革 命的第一粒种子。
当时17岁的丁再次以外卡球员的身份参加中国公开赛,最终以 9-5战胜了台球界获得荣誉最多的球手Stephen Hendry。丁在 年底于英国约克(York)举行的英国斯诺克锦标赛决赛中击败 英国老将Davis。
1987
2007
The Xingpai Group is founded. It becomes a worldleading manufacturer of snooker, billiards and pool tables, and a multi-million dollar backer of major tournaments in China. 北京星牌集团成立。星牌成为世界知名制造商,制造各种优质 台球桌,以及先后斥资数亿元赞助了大量主要赛事。
1990
China stages its first event that pays out tour ranking points as well as prize money. The Asian Open is staged in Guangzhou, with Stephen Hendry beating Taylor to take the title. 中国首次举办授予排名积分以及奖金的赛事——在广州举办的 亚洲公开赛,Stephen Hendry击败Taylor摘得桂冠。
Ding makes his World Championship debut, losing in the first round to Ronnie O’Sullivan but becoming the first Chinese player to compete at the Crucible.
丁参战世界锦标赛,虽然在揭幕战中败给英格兰的Ronnie O’Sullivan,可是丁却成为了首个在Crucible场馆比赛的中 国选手。
2007
The Shanghai Masters is added to the snooker calendar and becomes a fixture on the tour. 上海大师赛正式被加进斯诺克台球赛程表中,并列为固定赛事。
2012
1999
Zhu Ying achieves a first for China as she becomes the country’s first referee at the World Championship. During the tournament, record seven-time world champion Hendry retires and announces he is to focus on promoting cue sports in China.
从排名赛的名单上落榜了8年,中国终于重新举办排名赛。赛事 名为中国国际赛,并由John Higgins赢得冠军。
诸瑛成为首位在世锦赛上担任裁判的中国人。在该赛事上,获 得过7次世界锦标赛冠军的Hendry宣布退役,并且将在中国专 注推广台球运动。
After falling off the ranking event calendar for eight years, China returns with the China International in Shanghai, won by John Higgins.
2002
Fourteen-year-old Ding Junhui makes his professional tour debut at the China Open in Shanghai, losing to future top-three rival Mark Selby in the wild-card round. Later in the same year, Ding becomes World U21 champion at the age of 15.
2014
China’s Yan Bingtao becomes the youngest world amateur snooker champion, taking the honour at the age of 14 in November. 年仅14岁,来自中国的颜丙涛于11月成为最年轻的选手赢得世 界业余锦标赛冠军。
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10 key moments in
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MY HIGHER LIFE
Iwan Sunito CEO of Crown Group and frequent traveller Iwan Sunito shares how he likes to plan a trip and explore foreign cities.... 皇冠房地产集团的总裁Iwan Sunito经常出行, 他与我们分享计划旅行以及探索异国城市的心得……
Surviving long-haul travel... I like to fly out in the morning and get a good night’s sleep in a hotel and wake up refreshed. Flying during the day also allows me to work while I’m on the plane.
出国时住在哪里
我喜欢搭乘上午的航班,然后晚上在酒店睡一觉,第二天醒来格外精神爽 利。白天的飞行还能让我在飞机上继续工作。
旅游时我喜欢住在最好的酒店,但不一定是名牌酒店。我发觉当地的品牌 为了争取客人下次再度光临,会比较照顾客人的需要并且提供额外的服务, 包括延迟退房,这对搭乘午夜航班的客人来说是非常重要的。
Can't travel without...
Exploring a foreign city...
长途旅行的建议 162
business so they go overboard in offering extra services such as late check out, which is so important for those who have to fly at midnight.
I don’t travel overseas without my wife Liana and, where possible, our children. Travelling alone is kind of boring for me, and besides, family is more important for me than business. I also think good luggage is worth the investment – and that includes carry-on!
旅行时不能缺少什么 出国旅游一定不能缺少我的太太Liana,如果 情况许可的话我还会带上儿女。我觉得自己 一个人旅游很沉闷,而且对我而言家庭比生 意更重要。另外,我觉得一件好的行李也是 值得投资的,包括随身携带的行李。
Where to stay overseas... When I travel I like to stay in the best hotels, but it doesn’t have to be a branded hotel. I’ve found that local brands are keen to look after their clients to have repeat
I like to walk around the city and take public transport. I’ve found that ‘Slow is Fast’. By taking my time to explore a city on foot, I learn much more than if I would have gone by other transport.
探索异国城市 我喜欢徒步以及搭乘公共交通工具来探索新城市。我发现“慢即快”的道 理,比起使用其他交通工具,徒步探索能更快了解一个城市,并且收获更加 丰富。
Restaurants or street food? I go for both. I like to go to the finest and most beautiful interior-designed restaurant to find some architectural inspiration and the best food, but I also like to go to local restaurants with local food.
选择餐厅还是街头小吃? 我两样都会去。我喜欢到最高级以及拥有最美丽的室内设计的餐厅来寻找 建筑灵感和最佳的美食,我也喜欢到当地的餐厅品尝当地的特色美食。
“ I L I K E T O S TAY I N THE BEST HOTELS, B U T I T D O E S N ' T H AV E TO BE BRANDED”
悉尼歌剧院 旅游与体验 一边在悉尼海港之畔品尝美食, 一边尽情欣赏世界上最迷人的海港美 景,或参观被联合国教科文组织列为 世界文化遗产的建筑物,探寻悉尼歌 剧院设计师——约翰•乌松(Jørn Utzon) 的设计方案如何在历经波折后终得面 世的传奇故事。
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