Higher View - Issue 16

July – Sept 2016 #16

Passing the time

D I S COV ER THE OTHER S ID E O F S H A N G H A I

古城情怀 探索丽江

大自然的呼唤 中国大自然酒店

DRIVE DE CARTIER L ARG E DATE , RETROG R ADE S ECON D TIM E ZON E AN D DAY/N IG HT IN DICATOR 19 04 - FU MC THE DRIVE DE CARTIER COLLECTION IS ELEGANCE REDEFINED. THE SLEEK LINES OF THIS CUSHION-SHAPED WATCH CREATE A TRULY STYLISH PIECE, BROUGHT TO LIFE BY THE MAISON MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1904-FU MC. ITS THREE COMPLICATIONS ARE COORDINATED DIRECTLY BY THE CROWN. ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE. # W H ATD R I V E SYO U

FRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUE MELBOURNE 119 COLLINS STREET TEL: 03 9650 0288 SYDNEY SHOP 5, 147 KING STREET TEL: 02 9320 0188 MELBOURNE ANTON JEWELLERY TEL: 03 9569 1000

SYDNEY SHUM’S WATCHES AND JEWELLERY TEL: 02 9211 1887

UGG.COM

| # THISISUGG

Gartelmann Wines Gartelmann Wines is one of the Hunter Valley’s most respected winemakers. Established in 1995 the winery produces award winning wines from the best wine growing regions in New South Wales.

www.gartelmann.com.au

一年一度澳佳宝悉尼全程马 拉松和半程马拉松——更平 坦、更快速、更漂亮

42.195 公里

21.0975 公里

9.0 公里

2016年 9月 18日

3.9 公里

澳佳宝悉尼马拉松

从悉尼海港大桥上跑过 澳大利亚最壮观的路线 抢先报名优惠：即日起至7月31日。请登陆 以下网站报名：sydneyrunningfestival.com.au

使用促销代码 ‘CHINASYDNEY15’ 即可享受报名费 15% 折优惠

登记以及更多详情，请访问：sydneyrunningfestival.com.au

INTRODUCTION

中国驻悉尼旅游办事处

欢迎 Welcome

From CNTO, Sydney

From China Eastern

中

国总是竭尽所能地为游客带来惊喜。以上海为例，一众富有 艺术气息的欧式建筑内充满着纽约都市情怀，隐藏着这个城 市最奢华的一些酒店和餐厅（第86-92页）。 谈到酒店，您会惊奇的发现全国各地的奢华度假村的选址都很 独特，很多度假村将周边环境作为设计的灵感源泉（第64-73页）。 出人意料的是，丽江也成为人们逃离城市、休养放松的热门之选（第 106-111页）。如果这是您第一次到访中国，北京故宫必定是您的游 览之选。对于那些已经去过故宫的人来说，我们为您介绍的故宫探 秘将让您燃起故地重游的欲望（第118-125页）。

温

暖惬意的中国夏夜，将一扫整日阳光照射的焦灼。在这样的夏 季夜晚，上海外滩焕发出勃勃生机，当地人在此尽情享受完美 天气。餐后漫步于黄浦江畔，您将看到历久弥新的精美艺术建筑。出 人意料的是，在这些历史建筑里会找到极致奢华的酒店和酒吧，我们 在第86-92頁为您精彩呈献。 翻到第64-73页来探索独一无二的度假村，您将发现全国各地的 酒店开始摒弃时尚与现代的设计，转而从周边景观中汲取内部元素 的设计灵感。这种趋势已经广为流行，连遥远的澳大利亚也受此影响， 生态旅馆已呈火热之势（第94-105页）。

I

S

f there’s one thing China always manages to do, it’s pleasantly surprise its visitors. Take Shanghai, for instance, whose Art Deco architecture makes it one of the world’s best examples of the style outside of Europe and New York City. Inside, you’ll find many of the city’s best luxury hotels and restaurants (pages 86-92).

On the topic of hotels, you’ll be amazed to find opulent resorts in some unique locations across the country – many of them using their surrounding environments as a source of inspiration for design (pages 64-73). Lijiang has also become an unexpected hot spot for those looking to escape the city to recuperate (pages 106-111). And if it’s your first trip to China, you’ll undoubtedly want to pay a visit to Beijing’s Forbidden City; but for those who’ve already been, our feature uncovering the secrets of the museum will have you wanting to return (pages 118-125).

ummer nights in China are gloriously balmy, and offer a welcome relief from the sun that beams throughout the day.

On nights like these, Shanghai’s Bund comes to life with locals taking full advantage of the ideal weather. And an after-dinner stroll along the edge of the Huangpu River will reveal some of the world’s best examples of Art Deco buildings. Inside many of these impressive structures you’ll find ultra-luxe hotels and bars, which we’ve looked at more closely on pages 86-92.

As far as unique settings for resorts go, turn to pages 64-73.

Here you’ll find hotels across the country that have moved away from sleek and modern designs, preferring to draw on the outside as inspiration for its interior elements. This trend has spread far and wide, all the way to Australia, where the eco-lodge trend is in full-force (pages 94-105).

HIGHER VIEW ISSUE 16

Sub Editor Adam Scroggy

Creative Director Stephanie Goh

Advertising Max La-Brooy (02) 8188 3664

Editor Constantina Pilatos

Contributors Adrian Mourby Alicia Miller Jeremy Oliver Lisa Perkovic Richard Ryan Tatyana Leonov

Financial Controller Stuart Harle

max@citrusmedia.com.au

constantina@citrusmedia.com.au

Art Director Jon Gregory Staff Writer/Photographer Trent van der Jagt

16

Production Manager Ian Scott

Publisher Jim Flynn (02) 8188 3671 jim@citrusmedia.com.au

Crystal Wong (02) 8188 3662

Higher View is produced for business-class passengers on China Eastern flights between China and Australia. It can also be found in select newsagents and hotels. An iPad edition is available via the App Store.

crystal@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Webstar.

Citrus Media PO Box 20154 World Square NSW 2002

Cover image: Trent van der Jagt

© 2016 Citrus Media. All rights reserved. No article or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher.

While every care was taken during the preparation of this magazine, Citrus Media cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it.

All views and opinions expressed herein are the personal views of the writer/photographer and do not necessarily reflect the views

or opinions of China National Tourism Office Sydney (CNTO) or any of its employees, affiliates or agencies. Higher View is an independent publication and is in no way endorsed by CNTO. The contents/photos do not necessarily represent the views of China Eastern Airlines.

CONTENTS

Features

Escape to one of Australia’s best eco-lodges

94

54 View to dine for 可餐秀色

64 Into the wild 奢华与自然

74 Mornington glory 莫宁顿半岛层出不穷的精彩

86 Art of building 建筑艺术

Escape the city life in Palm Beach, Sydney’s favourite getaway

The great outdoors meets with the ultra-modern at these eco-lodges

Lisa Perkovic discovers Victoria’s favourite nature getaway

Shanghai is the Art Deco capital of the East and arguably, the world

94 Land of plenty 洞天福地

106 Locked in time 丽江古城情怀

112 Wellness weekends 健康周末

118 Hidden treasures 北京故宫

We round up the most luxurious natural retreats in Australia

A city as beautiful as it is historic.

Constantina Pilatos uncovers Lijiang

Sydneysiders are embracing a healthier way of living

China’s cultural heart, The Forbidden City still has some new stories to tell

18

CONTENTS

Regulars 23 News 动态新闻 What’s going on and where in China and Australia

38 Suzhou in eight stops 游苏州 Eight must-see attractions in the old-world-charm of Suzhou

40 Restaurant opening 新菜馆 Noodle Diner in Beijing has locals and tourists flocking for a bowl

42 Top 10 十大邂逅野生动物胜地 The top 10 best places in Australia to meet some critters

48 Concierge’s guide 悉尼之行 Experience Sydney like a local with the help of a trusty concierge

50 Check-in 家的温暖 Durham House achieves the often sought after homely vibe

52 如诗如画圣诞岛

潘华为我们揭秘圣诞岛美丽的 面纱和其悠久的华人文化传统

Palm Beach, Sydney’s coastal playground

54

127 Higher life 奢华生活 The latest in watches, auto, wine, fashion and jewels

162 My higher life 名人专访 Catch up with Olivar Musson, creative director at Musson Jewellers

150

Discover Shanghai’s Art Deco side

86

The Forbidden City still has secrets to share

118

WORLD-CLASS SERVICE.

OA.CEAIR.COM

NOBLEBRANDS870HV

WHATEVER CLASS YOU’RE IN.

Take Off

THE BEST OF WHAT’S HAPPENING ACROSS CHINA AND AUSTRALIA

RACE WEEK Hamilton Island 26 · THE GEORG Beijing 28 · AIRPORT DINING Sydney 34 · DURHAM HOUSE Brisbane 50

烟与镜，虚与实

Mirror, Mirror

Danish contemporary artist Jeppe Hein’s installations are known for playfully blurring the line between space and perception.

And Semicircular Space is no different. Currently inhabiting the National Gallery of Victoria’s lobby space, you can catch this optical-illusion-like sculpture until September 16. ngv.vic.gov.au 丹麦当代艺术家耶珀·海因(JEPPE HEIN)创作的装置艺术作品擅长以充满 幽默感的方式模糊空间和感知的界限。其作品“半圆空”目前正在维多利 亚国家美术馆大厅展览，于9月16日前去感受视错觉雕塑作品的风采。 23

TA K E O F F

活动

Events BENDIGO

Dark horse 黑马 Toni Maticevski’s manipulation of traditional silhouettes and innovative use of materials and fabrics will be on display at Bendigo Art Gallery’s major exhibition Maticevski: Dark Wonderland. The solo exhibition of Maticevski’s work makes him one of the few Australian designers to have been bestowed with such an honour. Blurring the line between fashion and art, this is one not to be missed. August 13 – November 20, bendigoartgallery.com.au 托尼·马蒂克维斯基（TONI MATICEVSKI）对传统廓形的 掌控和对材质及面料的创造性使用，将在本迪戈美术馆 （BENDIGO ART GALLERY）的大型展览“马蒂克维斯 基：黑暗仙境” （MATICEVSKI: DARK WONDERLAND） 中尽情展现。这项展览模糊了时尚与艺术的界限，精彩不 容错过。活动日期：8月13日至11月20日。

ADEL AIDE

节庆活动

Season’s greetings As the blossoms and vine buds burst, Barossa food and wine producers host a series of parties throughout the region to welcome the upcoming spring season. The Barossa Gourmet Weekend is the perfect way to farewell Winter. September 2-4, barossagourmet.com 鲜花盛开，葡萄藤 萌发新芽，整个芭萝莎 （BAROSSA）地区将成为派对的天堂—— 当地美食和美酒生产商大展身手，共同迎接 春天的到来。9月2日至4日，快来芭萝莎美食 周末（BAROSSA GOURMET WEEKEND）， 告别寒冷冬天！

24

TA K E O F F

TOWNSVILLE

冬季之声

Winter sounds Over 30 of the world’s finest musicians will head to North Queensland for the Australian Festival of Chamber Music. Expect stellar music and warm weather, as Townsville’s winter average is 24 degrees. July 29 – August 6, afcm.com.au 即将于昆士兰州北部举办的澳大利亚室 内乐音乐节（AUSTRALIAN FESTIVAL OF CHAMBER MUSIC）将汇集30余名世界 顶级音乐家。汤斯维尔（TOWNSVILLE） 冬季的平均气温为24度，让我们在这个 温暖的冬季共同期待精彩的音乐。活动日 期：7月29日-8月6日 。

CANBERRA

首府

Capital gains 香浓岩石

On The Rocks At The Rocks Aroma Festival, you’ll get a delicious taste of the best coffees, teas, chocolate and spices from local producers.

July 11-24, therocks.com 在岩石区（THE ROCKS)举办的香浓咖啡节（ROCKS AROMA FESTIVAL）为您呈献当地最高品质的咖啡、 茶饮、巧克力和香料。活动日期：7月11日至24日。

The Fireside Festival celebrates the fresh produce and wine of the ACT. Take a short drive out of Canberra and you’ll find award-winning reds paired with degustation dinners, a host of live music shows and exhibitions.

August, visitcanberra.com.au 来 到 炉 边 节（ F I R E S I D E FESTIVAL）品味澳大利亚首都 领地的新鲜食材和葡萄酒。这 里有配对屡获殊荣的葡萄酒的 晚餐以及精彩的现场音乐表演 和展览。活动日期：8月份。

即将来袭 OPENING SOON

Kempinski Hotel Fuzhou

Langham Haikou

福州凯宾斯基酒店即将在福建省会福州 市晋安区盛大开业，将提供327间客房。

中国第8家朗廷酒店即将开业。酒店位于海 南省会海口市，拥有249间奢华客房。

The capital of Fujian welcomes the 327-room Kempinski Hotel Guzhou to the business district of Jin An. kempinski.com

The eighth Langham Hotel to hit China, this 249-room luxury resort is found in Hainan’s capital. langhamhotels.com

25

TA K E O F F

热点活动

Featured event

扬帆起航

Set sail

Australia’s elite descend on one of the country’s most iconic isles for an event filled with action, fine food, and even-finer champagne... 项体育赛事，将菁英们汇聚在澳大利亚最具 标志性的岛屿，这里充满了活力和无尽的佳 酿美食……

Attracting over 200 craft competing in a number of events, the three-decade-old Hamilton Island Race Week has become one of the largest offshore regattas in Australia. Taking place in the stunning Whitsunday Islands on the Great Barrier Reef, there are also plenty of non-boating activities to accompany the island’s luxury food, drink and accommodation offerings.

Perfectly situated on the edge of the Great Barrier Reef, among Queensland’s 74 Whitsunday Islands, Hamilton Island offers an experience like no other: glorious weather, azure waters, brilliant beaches, awe-inspiring coral reefs, fascinating flora and fauna, fine food and wines, and activities too numerous to mention.

August 20-27, hamiltonislandraceweek.com.au 汉密尔顿岛帆船季（HAMILTON ISLAND RACE WEEK）拥 有30余年历史，是澳大利亚最盛大的近海帆船赛事之一， 一系列赛事吸引着20 0余艘帆船前来参赛。赛事举办地位 于大堡礁（GREAT BARRIER REEF）风景秀丽的圣灵群岛 （WHITSUNDAY ISLANDS），除赛船外还有多种娱乐活动， 让您尽享美味餐饮和奢华住宿体验。汉密尔顿岛是昆士兰 州74圣灵群岛之一，位于大堡礁边缘，地理位置得天独厚。 在这里，您将享受无与伦比的体验— —良好的气候环境， 湛蓝的海水、美丽的海滩、令人神往的珊瑚礁、迷人的动植 物、精致的美食和葡萄酒以及各种活动，几乎不胜枚举。 活动日期：8月20日至27日。 26

The Ultimate Luxury Swiss Watch and Jewellery Destination

Chadstone Boutique relocating to a new Flagship Store October 2016 CHADSTONE Shop G010, Chadstone Shopping Centre, Chadstone THE GLEN Shop 2, 103 The Glen Shopping Centre, Glen Waverley T: (03) 9654 1166 E: enquiries@antonjewellery.com antonjewellery.com • Follow us @antonjewellery

TA K E O F F

Beijing MUST SEE

By Georg

Come into Contact

The Western fine dining scene in Beijing is relatively small. So when a new restaurant opens up and it’s this good, we’re not hesitant to say it’s vying for the top spot. The Georg is operated by Georg Jensen, the high-end Danish silverware brand.

Spread over a renovated courtyard mansion on the Yu River, it includes an art gallery and lounge. Local ingredients are used to create meals crafted by Western techniques, but with an Eastern influence in flavour.

Each course is roughly the same size, and opting for the tasting menu provides the best all-round experience. thegeorg.com/en/therestaurant

M WOODS will present Andy Warhol: Contact, an exhibition of groundbreaking film, photography, and interactive installations by one of the 20th century’s most influential artists. Curated by M WOODS Director Presca Ahn, the show will bring light to works never before seen in China.

August 6 – January 17, mwoods.org

Forever young Australia’s youngest and most talented singers will visit Beijing for a one-night-only performance, followed by another in Shanghai, as part of the Australian Youth Orchestra’s 22nd International Tour. With Manfred Honeck as conductor and Hélène Grimaud on piano, you can expect a concert to remember. August 2, chncpa.org

Classic case

Tea time They say there’s a first for everything and Beijing has just welcomed its first bar dedicated to infusing tea with alcohol. Longjing is an ultra-modern teahouse by day and cocktail bar by night. On the menu you’ll find concoctions like namesake cocktail, the Longjing, which combines No 3 London gin with Japanese sochu and green tea. Building 22, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang district 28

Conducter Lu Jia teams with violinist Yang Tianwa for Absolute Schumann: A Night of Schumann.

The National Center for the Performing Arts will host the pair for a special series of performances reciting Schumann’s Manfred Overture, Op. 115, Violin Concerto in D minor and Symphony No. 4 in D minor, Op. 120.

This is a classical music event not to be missed.

August 3-23, chncpa.org/ens

TA K E O F F

Shanghai MUST SEE

All that jazz

Summer hit

Grammy-winning saxophonist and composer Wayne Escoffery will be appearing in the stylish surrounds of Heyday for a special night at the retro cocktail lounge and live bar. This is a rare chance to see such a renowned jazz musician in such an intimate setting. Let the smooth rolling sounds transport you back to a time when jazz was all you’d hear in clubs.

July 24, heydayjazz.cn

In 2014, Matthew Bourne’s Swan Lake made a huge splash in Shanghai’s culture scene.

Sleeping Beauty is his new production and it won’t disappoint. What makes Bourne’s rewrites so unique is that he incorporates elements into the classic storyline that were not there previously. Purists may wince at some of the musical edits that Bourne has imposed, yet they are dramatically strategic, and oddly sometimes allow us to hear new things in Tchaikovsky’s original score. You’ll be pleasantly surprised. August 16-20, Shanghai Culture Square , 36 Yongjia Lu

Down to a tea Afternoon tea becomes even more desirable with the addition of Perrier-Jouet. In the Four Seasons Hotel Pudong, Shanghai’s champagne afternoon tea is not simply a list of obligatory niceties. It features savouries such as cod fish mousse with shrimp jelly and fish roe and sweets of a white peach panacotta with gold champagne jelly.

Till September 30, fourseasons.com/pudong

Happiest place Situated in the hottest location right now, next to Shanghai Disneyland, Shanghai Village calls itself a new shopping experience for the city’s retail lovers. European-style buildings house a mix of 140 boutiques. You’ll be able to shop international labels like Armani, Coach and Kate Spade New York, and local brands such as Chuang x Yi (Made

by China) and Helen Lee. shanghaivillage.com 30

Something to smile about Is the painting ‘Earlier Mona Lisa’ of the same woman behind the famous ‘Mona Lisa’ by Leonardo da Vinci? Earlier Mona Lisa exhibition, at The House of Xintiandi, allows visitors to discover the research done by eminent art historians that went into attributing one of the world’s most famous painting’s origins.

Till August 28, 380 South Huangpi Road

TA K E O F F

旅游贴士

Travel tips

在此休憩

Take a break Long-haul travel can be draining.

Luckily, SkyTeam Exclusive Lounge can help recharge your batteries 长途飞行很容易让人身心疲惫。天合联盟 专属候机室是您恢复体力的绝佳场所 We all know travelling for business is different to taking a holiday. When you’re traversing countries for work the luxuries of home are certainly missed: a homecooked meal, your local newspaper to accompany breakfast and being able to take some downtime whenever you need five minutes to regroup. While nothing can quite measure up to home, SkyTeam Exclusive Lounge in Sydney Airport’s Terminal 1 comes close. If you’re travelling Elite Plus, First or Business Class on an airline that’s part of the SkyTeam network, the lounge is at your disposal. Refresh from a long-haul flight with a shower and massage, or refuel on freshly baked goods. Leave the chaos of the airport terminal behind and call home, relax, and (if you must) catch up on some work emails. skyteam.com 有别于一般旅行，在商务旅行期间需跨越各个国家工作，难免 会唤起您的乡愁——住家饭的味道、享用早餐时阅读的一份 当地报纸、当您需要停下来好好组织一番时，随时随地都能抽 出来安静默想的五分钟。虽然家是一个万物所不能取代的温 暖之所，不过位于悉尼机场一号候机楼的天合联盟专属候机 室能带给您最接近家的感觉。天合联盟超级精英会员或搭乘 天合联盟成员航空公司运营的所有头等舱和商务舱旅客都可 以使用候机室。一趟长度飞行后您可以在这里冲个淋浴，唤醒 身心；享受按摩，纾解疲劳；或是品尝新鲜出炉的餐点，补充 体力。远离机场大楼的嘈杂，来到这个像家一样的天合联盟 专属候机室放松身心，或是（如果必须的话）处理工作邮件。 32

TA K E O F F

悉尼 Sydney 不容错过 MUST SEE

机场美食

On the fly People are flocking to Sydney Airport’s T1 International Departures – not just to make their flight, but also to sneak in a pre-flight bite whipped up by some of the world’s leading chefs and franchises...

戏剧女王 Drama queen

人们蜂拥至悉尼机场T1国际离港航站楼，不 仅仅是为了赶上飞机，更是为了可以在起飞 前抽空品尝一些世界名厨的手艺以及知名 餐厅的美味佳肴……

Carmen is an opera that is packed with drama.

The ultimate femme fatale is here to stamp her feet, toss her hair and dance. Till August 12, opera.org.au

Benny Burger Shannon Bennett, of Melbourne fine-diner Vue de Monde, will launch Benny Burger. Think delicious burgers without the guilt. The restaurant will focus of ethically sourced produce with minimal environmental impact. 来 自 墨 尔 本 高 档 餐 厅 维 德 蒙（ V U E D E M O N D E ）的 大 厨 香 农·贝 内 特 （SHANNON BENNET）将在悉尼机场开设一家名为“BENNY BURGER”的餐 厅，供应各色美味汉堡。餐厅所使用的食材均为良心采购、绿色环保的农产品。

《 卡 门 》是 一 部 充 满 戏 剧 张 力 的 歌 剧 。终 极 蛇 蝎 美 人将 踏 足 悉 尼 歌 剧 院，展现她的迷人风情和 舞 姿。活 动日期：即日起 至8月12日。

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

The Bistro Sydney Airport has also flown in celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck from America to launch The Bistro. Unwind before your flight in a relaxed Italian trattoria-style restaurant.

CMY

K

明星厨师沃尔夫冈·帕克（WOLFGANG PUCK）也已从美国抵达悉尼机场，隆 重推出THE BISTRO餐厅。在航班起飞前，您可以在这家轻松舒适的意大利风格 餐厅放松身心，享用现代意大利美食，包括滋味的意大利面食和炭火披薩。

Joe & The Juice Conemporary Danish juice bar brand Joe & The Juice will provide an extensive selection of fresh juice combinations to boost wellbeing pre-flight – the first and only location Down Under. sydneyairport.com.au 丹麦果汁吧品牌JOE & THE JUICE在悉尼机场开设了澳新地区第一家、也是唯一 一家店面，供应各种新鲜果汁组合，让您可以在起飞前享受一杯健康饮品，为您 带来无与伦比的清新体验。

沙滩时尚

Beach chic

QT has opened a new luxury hotel on the shores of Sydney’s iconic Bondi Beach. There are 69 suites that encompass that effortless ‘Bondi feel.’ From $280 per night, qthotelsandresorts.com QT在悉尼邦迪海滩（BONDI BEACH）开设豪华酒店， 设有69间豪华套房，入住其中，可以感受悠闲自在的“邦 迪范儿”。每晚280澳元起。 34

C

悲伤故事 Tale of woe The Hanging is a story of two missing school girls, where secrets are being kept and the clock is ticking.

A new enthralling, chilling mystery.

Till September 10, sydneytheatre.com.au 《THE HANGING》讲述 了两 个 女 学生 失 踪 的 故 事，时间紧迫，但有人却 不愿透露秘密。整部剧情 节跌宕起伏，引人入胜活 动日期：即日起至9月日。

TA K E O F F

墨尔本 Melbourne 焕然一新

不容错过 DON’T MISS

Brand new Melbourne is renowned for its coffee and its laneways. And the city welcomes a new laneway in the form of St. Collins Lane. Hosting a number of restaurants within a dedicated al fresco dining area known as the Aviary, diners can choose from a selection of eight locations.

But the real drawcards are the stores.

Luxury international brands such as Coach, Tag Heuer and Furla have all set up shop, with more to follow. stcollinslane.com 墨尔本以咖啡和巷道闻名于世。如今，墨尔 本迎来了一个全新的巷道— —柯林斯街巷 道（ST. COLLINS LANE）。这里的露台餐饮 区“大鸟笼” （AVIARY）内开设多间餐厅。 但真正的卖点并不是美食，而是购物。蔻 驰、泰格豪雅和芙拉等国际奢侈品牌已入 驻于此，后续还有更多品牌入驻。

最佳摇滚

Rock out

永恒经典 What a classic The world-first exhibition Degas: A New Vision offers the most significant international survey of Degas’ work in decades, presenting more than 200 works.

Till September 18, ngv.vic.gov.au 世界一流展览《德加：新 视野》（DEGAS: A NEW V I S I O N）将展出2 0 0 余 件作品，向人们展示数十 年 来 有关 德 加 作 品 的 重 要国际研究成果。活动日 期：即日起至9月18日。

Since 2002 over 16 million people have been thrilled

by We Will Rock You. Based on the songs of Queen with a book by Ben Elton, this is a hilarious comedy that will have you laughing and singing along. August 30 – October 9, wewillrockyou.com.au 自2 0 0 2 年起，已 经有超 过1, 5 0 0万人参加W E W I L L RO CK YO U激动人心的摇滚 派 对。取材于皇 后乐队 （QUEEN）的歌曲，由本·埃尔顿（BEN ELTON）加以创 作，这出滑稽喜剧囊括了多首皇后乐队最热门的歌曲。 活动日期：8月30日-10月9日。

整装待发

Going for goal

36

作家狂欢 Write on

Defending A-League champions, Melbourne Victory, will host powerhouse European football clubs – England’s Tottenham Hotspur and Italy’s Juventus – as well as, newly announced, Spain’s Atletico de Madrid. July 23-29, internationalchampionscup.com

Melbourne Writers Festival connects readers, writers and thinkers in a winter celebration, attracting the best writers from around the world, such as David Levithan. August 26 – September 4, mwf.com.au

澳大利亚职业足球联赛卫冕冠军墨尔本胜 利（MELBOURNE VICTORY）将主场迎战欧洲足 球 劲 旅 — 英 格 兰 托 特 纳 姆 热 刺 、意 大 利 尤 文 图 斯 以及最新公布的西班牙马德里竞技。活动日期：7月23 日-29日。

墨尔本作家节（MELBOURNE WRITERS FESTIVAL）将汇集 来自世界各地数以百计最优 秀的作家。活动日期：8月26 日-9月4日。

TA K E O F F

Suzhou

1 Lingering Garden

A pocket of old-world charm, Suzhou’s gardens – filled with ancient pavilions, overhanging trees and narrow waterways – reflect the Chinese appreciation of balance and harmony

2 Suzhou Museum

IN EIGHT STOPS

This three-hectare plot was originally built in the Ming dynasty by a doctor as a relaxing place for his recovering patients.

Here you’ll find winding corridors, ponds and dense clusters of bamboo.

A modern addition, its design effortlessly blends into its environment thanks to the use of water, bamboo and straight lines.

Inside you’ll find an array of jade, ceramics, wooden carvings and textiles.

3 Garden of the Master of the Nets This pocket-sized garden is considered one of Suzhou’s best-preserved. The labyrinth of courtyards, with windows framing other parts of the garden, is ingeniously designed to give the illusion of a much larger area.

4 North Temple Pagoda The tallest pagoda south of the Yangtze is a beauty, dominating the northern end of Renmin Lu. You can climb the nine-storey pagoda for sweeping views of Suzhou.

5 Tiger Hill Here you’ll find the leaning Cloud Rock Pagoda atop the hill. The octagonal seven-storey pagoda was built in the 10th century. About 400 years ago it started tilting. The highest point is more than two metres from its original position.

6 Confucian Temple Lingering Garden

Cloud Rock Pagoda

A place of peace in a busy town, the temple highlight is the fabulous stelae carved during the Southern Song dynasty (1137-1279). One features a fascinating map of old Suzhou, showing the canal system, old roads and city walls.

7 Suzhou Silk Museum This museum exhibits the history of how Suzhou became the silk-producing capital back in the 13th century and details its 4000-year-old silk industry.

8 Blue Wave Pavilion

Garden of the Master of the Nets

38

Once home of a prince, this garden is now the oldest in Suzhou, built in the 11th century. You won’t find this slightly overgrown garden swarming with tourists.

Rather, locals come here to chill out.

Perth – Australia’s most beautiful city?

Experience it to believe it.

Visit Australia’s sunniest capital city and you’ll experience more than just amazing sunsets over the ocean.

Perth effortlessly blends urban cool with raw natural beauty and makes the perfect base for your unique Western Australian experience. Bustling with new bars, restaurants, shopping and cultural spaces, Perth is also home to spectacular Kings Park - one of the world’s largest inner city parks, beautiful wineries and stunning beaches where you can even swim with wild dolphins.

So visit Perth and experience it for yourself.

westernaustralia.com.au Your gateway to Perth

TA K E O F F

新菜馆

设计标杆

Set the bar A restaurant opening in China is not uncommon, but one new spot has Beijingers piling in tighter than a pack of ready-made noodles... 在中国，面馆开张很平常，但有一家新餐厅让北京人争 相前往的速度可比您吃面条的速度快多了 Noodle Diner, set in Beijing’s Sanlitun SOHO complex, is the latest offering from the Longxiaobao restaurant group. With ambitious plans to open 50 locations in China over the next three years, Christina Luk of Lukstudio, a Shanghai-based design firm, should be happily busy for a while. Why, you ask? Luk’s sophisticated take on the traditional noodle shop has diners and architect nuts singing her praises. The inside of Noodle Diner looks just like a noodle rack; cables swoop in the shape of a ‘U’, attached to bars that are suspended from the ceiling. To dine among the complex ‘noodle rack’ you’ll have to book the second-floor’s private room. For those who just want a decent serving of noodles, the first floor is set out canteen-style. Shop 1-122, Sanlitun SOHO, lukstudiodesign.com 位于北京三里屯SOHO的NOODLE DINER 是 隆小宝 餐 饮 管 理公司 的 全 新力作 。其计 划于 未 来 三年 在中国开 设5 0 间面馆，因此 上 海设 计公司芝作室（LU K S T U D I O）的陆 頴芝（CHRISTINA LUK）应该会愉快地忙 上一 阵 子。您 想 知 道 原 因 ？陆 对于 传 统 面 馆 复杂巧妙的改 造让食客和建筑师赞不绝 口。NOODLE DINER的内部看起来就像一 个晾面架。钢丝连接着悬挂于天花板上的木 条，垂挂成“U”型。如果想在复杂的“晾面 架”中用餐，您必须预订位于二层的包房。对 于那些只想正经吃面的人来说，一楼则布置成 食堂风格。地址：三里屯SOHO，1-122店铺。

40

Restaurant opening

Where the wild things are 邂逅野生动物

Australia has its fair share of captivating creatures. While most can be seen in zoos, the most memorable experiences are ones that occur in their natural habitat.

We’ve got 10 wild encounters for you to get a feel of the native fauna... 澳大利亚拥有极具吸引力的野生动 物资源。虽然在动物园可以观赏到 大部分动物，但是在野生动物的自 然栖息地观赏它们才是最难忘的体 验。我们将为您介绍能够使您深陷 其中的十大野生动物邂逅胜地 42

Quokka heaven: the endearing marsupials roam freely on Rottnest Island

#1 Go quokka-hoop Rottnest Island, WA Some 19km off the coast of Perth lies Rottnest Island, a haven for the oftenforgotten quokka. Up to 17,000 of these mini-marsupials resembling shrunkendown wallabies roam Rottnest as if they own the place – which is fair, as they vastly outnumber the humans on the island.

Rottnest supports Australia’s largest quokka population and it’s easily your best bet to get up close to these friendly creatures. At just 19km² the island’s many beaches, coves and rock pools are best explored by bike and shouldn’t take more than a day. You’ll easily spot the native

quokkas milling about at every stretch of road, but for a closer experience Rottnest Island offers free guided walks at 1pm daily. rottnestisland.com 罗特尼斯岛（ROTTNEST ISLAND）距离珀斯 海岸19公里，是经常被遗忘的短尾矮袋鼠的 栖息地。这种类似沙袋鼠的小型有袋动物的 数量多达17,000只，大大超过岛上居民的数 量，因此说它们才是岛屿的主人一点也不为 过。这座只有19平方公里的岛屿上拥有澳大 利亚最多数量的短尾矮袋鼠，并且分布着众 多海滩、海湾和岩石堆，骑自行车游览是绝 佳之选。您在每个路段都很容易看见短尾矮 袋鼠四处游走，如果想近距离接触它们，可 以参加每天下午一点免费提供的步行导览。

TA K E O F F

“Just watch out for the giraffes blocking your view of the harbour” #4 Kakadu or Kaka-don’t

#2 Penguin parade Phillip Island, VIC While most Aussie critters are cuter than a newborn, there are few that can compare to the adorable fairy penguins on Phillip Island. As the sun goes down and the sky over the coast changes to purple you’ll catch your first glimpse of the little fellas waddling in a mad dash out of the water and scurrying up the dunes before stopping for an exhausted breath. Right beside the purpose-built viewing boardwalk, the 30cm, bluefeathered penguins greet their chicks for the night in their burrows and their parade is over. It may last only a few minutes each evening, but it’s well worth it for the hundreds of visitors on Phillip Island.

Tickets from $25 visitphillipisland.com 很 少 有 动 物 能 与 菲 利 普 岛（ P H I L L I P ISLAND）讨人喜欢的神仙小企鹅相媲美。夕 阳缓缓下落，您将目睹这些小家伙们摇摇晃 晃地冲出海面，一口气窜上沙丘。在专门建 造的观赏木板路旁，这种30厘米高、遍布蓝 色羽毛的企鹅与它们的幼崽相遇并且回归 洞穴。企鹅归巢的时光每晚可能只持续几分 钟，但对于菲利普岛数以百计的游客来说， 却是非常值得观赏的。票价：25澳元起。

Penguins aplenty at the purpose-built viewing platform

from the fine food and night-time zoo tour, the real highlight is waking up to full 180-degree uninterrupted skyline of Sydney Harbour. Just watch out for the giraffes blocking your view.

From $320 per night taronga.org.au 夕阳缓缓下落，野生动物焕发生机。塔龙 加动物园（TARONGA ZOO）的咆哮露营 （ROAR AND SNORE）可以实现您独自 拥有整间动物园的梦想。熙熙攘攘的人群 退去，野生动物开始咆哮行进，您可以像国 王一样看着它们若隐若现；在专属于您的 帐篷内已为您准备妥当美食佳肴以及几支 香槟杯，静待您品尝。但是除了美食和夜间 动物园之旅外，旅途真正的亮点是在悉尼 港180度无死角的天际线中醒来，唯一需要 担心的是长颈鹿挡住您的视线。价格：每晚 320澳元起。

Kakadu National Park, NT Kakadu National Park in Australia’s north end has no shortage of breathtaking sights, mountainous hikes and freeroaming native wildlife, but no simple bird spotting can compare to tracking down a crocodile. Kakadu is known for two things: the landscape and crocs. With Kakadu covered almost entirely by wetlands there are plenty of curious toothy locals poking their heads up. While these scaly beauties are a treat to track down, a guided tour is a must. Yellow Water Cruises is your best bet with experienced locals taking you to all the wildlife and croc hotspots, offering something new with every changing season.

Tickets from $72 kakadutourism.com 卡卡杜国家公园（KAKADU NATIONAL PARK）位于澳大利亚北部，拥有令人窒息 的美景、山区徒步旅行路线和四处游走的本 土野生动物。卡卡杜因风景和鳄鱼而闻名 于世，这里几乎完全被湿地所覆盖，因此栖 息着很多鳄鱼。追踪鳄鱼必须有导游的陪 伴，YELLOW WATER CRUISES是您最好的 选择，经验丰富的当地人将带领您游览所有 野生动物和鳄鱼的热点地区。随着季节的变 化，体验也会有所不同。票价：72澳元起。

#3 Roar and snore Taronga Zoo, Sydney, NSW When the sun goes down, the wild things come out. Have you ever dreamed of having an entire zoo to yourself? Roar and Snore at Taronga Zoo is just that.

The bustling crowds are gone, the animals start their roaring and rumbling and you’ve got a glamp-site fit for a king set up amidst it all. You’ll have your very own safari-style tent ready with gourmet meals and a few sneaky glasses of bubbly brought straight to you, but apart

Stunning views from Taronga Zoo’s Roar and Snore tents

43

TA K E O F F

Pelican feeding on Kangaroo Island

#5 More than its name Kangaroo Island, SA With over a third of Kangaroo Island dedicated to national park, there are few better places to track down some of your Aussie favourites. And while it may be called Kangaroo Island, you’ll be treated to a lot more than just Australia’s favourite marsupial here. Echidnas, wallabies, possums, seals and pelicans roam the island seemingly unaware of the humans crossing their path. The best way to experience the wild, bush-strewn landscape is either through hikes or by car. A bit of local knowledge from the 4,000 or so residents, local farmers and producers goes a long way if you want to guarantee spotting everything on offer, so a tour guide is recommended.

Tours from $451 tourkangarooisland.com.au 袋鼠岛（KANGAROO ISLAND）超过1/3的 面积被打造成国家公园，想要追踪澳大利亚 广受欢迎的野生动物，没有比这里更适合的 地方了。虽然它被称为袋鼠岛，但是您可以 在这里观赏到很多其他野生动物，而不仅仅 是这种澳大利亚广受欢迎的有袋动物。针鼹 鼠、沙袋鼠、负鼠和海豹旁若无人的在岛上 漫步。体验这种四处都是灌木丛的自然景观 的最佳方式是徒步旅行或驾车探索。岛上的 居民、农民和生产者约有4,000名，他们对 袋鼠岛的了解将对您大有帮助。如果想要确 保能够观赏到所有景点，一位当地导游还是 很有必要的。价格：451澳元起。 44

The Great Barrier Reef is brimming with both colour and marine life

TA K E O F F

“The beauty of the Great Barrier Reef is the multitude of ways through which to discover it” #6 Take the dive Great Barrier Reef, QLD No trip to Australia is complete without taking a dive in the Great Barrier Reef, the world’s largest coral reef system made up of over 3,000 individual reefs.

The beauty of the Great Barrier Reef is the multitude of ways through which to discover it. Taking in the sapphire blues and multicoloured reefs from the air is the best way to embrace the scope of the reef, but nothing compares to getting up close and personal with the wildlife that calls it home. Dozens of boat tours offer snorkelling and scuba diving opportunities for you to quite literally get face-to-face with hordes of native fish, sea turtles and playful seals.

Tickets from $162 greatadventures.com.au

如果没有去大堡礁（GREAT BARRIER REEF）潜水，那么您的澳大利亚之旅就不 完整。大堡礁是世界最大的珊 瑚礁群，由 3,000余个独立珊瑚礁组成。您可以通过众 多方式探索大堡礁的美景。从空中俯瞰宝蓝 色的海水和五光十色的礁石是纵览大堡礁 的最佳方式，但是与以大堡礁为家的野生动 物的近距离亲密接触更是无与伦比。众多游 船之旅可以为您提供浮潜和深水潜水的机 会，让您能够真正面对面的接触成群的原生 鱼类、海龟和顽皮的海豹。 票价：162澳元起。

#7 Close encounters Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary, QLD Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary in Queensland embraces its wilderness roots. Flocks of lorikeets fly free and land in your hands, koalas are ready for a cuddle and kangaroos are always keen for a feed. It combines all the wildness of the bush with the safety and support of a sanctuary. As a heritage-listed zoological garden, Currumbin is all about the up-close encounters, whether it be bird shows or croc feeding. Alongside the animals you’ll also experience live Indigenous dances, sheep shearing and plenty of educational tours held all day – great for the children. There’s a slim chance you’ll get much closer to Aussie wildlife anywhere else.

Tickets from $49 cws.org.au 位于昆士兰州的库伦宾野生动物园 （CURRUMBIN WILDLIFE SANCTUARY） 能使您完全融入野生环境之中。成群的吸蜜 鹦鹉自由的飞落于您的手中，您可以随时拥 抱考拉并且给袋鼠喂食。这里的灌木丛不乏 野性，却又为野生动物提供庇护，十分安全。 作为被列为文化遗产的动物园，库伦宾使您 能够近距离邂逅野生动物，无论是鸟类观赏 或是喂食鳄鱼。在观赏野生动物的同时，您 还可以体验现场表演的原住民舞蹈、剪羊毛 以及为儿童全天举行的众多教育之旅。您几 乎不可能在其他任何地方如此近距离的接 触澳大利亚的野生动物。 票价：49澳元起。

#8 Whale of a time Ningaloo Marine Park, WA At the Great Barrier Reef you might meet thousands of tropical schools, but it’s not every day you come face to face with the world’s largest fish. The whale shark, found most regularly near Western Australia’s Ningaloo Marine Park (March to July), can grow up to 18 metres in length. Fortunately, swimming with these docile mammoths is perfectly safe (even if they are technically sharks) and they’re more than accommodating to divers dropping in for a visit. Keeping pace with these gliding gentle giants is a challenge, but they’ll be sure to slip by for a quick g’day.

Tickets from $625 ningaloowhalesharks.com.au 在大堡礁，您可能会邂逅数以千计的热带 鱼群，但并不是每一天您都有机会面对面 的接触世界最大的鱼类。鲸鲨的长度可达 18米，3月份至7月份经常在西澳的宁格鲁 海洋公园（NINGALOO MARINE PARK） 附近出没。幸运的是，尽管它们被称作鲨 鱼，但与这些温顺的庞然大物一起畅游是 绝对安全的，而且它们对待潜水参观的游 客更加亲切。虽然未能与这些温顺的庞然 大物并驾齐驱，但是它们一定会从您的身 边飞掠而过，向您问好。 票价：625澳元起。 45

TA K E O F F

#9 Turtle-y awesome Mon Repos Turtle Centre, QLD Spotting a swarm of tiny, scampering sea turtles is equal parts adorable as it is lucky.

In the summer months at Mon Repos Turtle Centre in Queensland (the largest population of endangered loggerhead turtles) you can take a shot at witnessing this miracle of nature. Eight weeks after being laid, the nests of over 100 hatchlings race across the sand to the freedom of the sea. Organised tours will yield the best results with guides anticipating the exact time and locations to increase your odds. However, Mon Repos isn’t the only haven for hatchlings; Heron Island and Lady Elliot Island are also great turtle spotting locations in Queensland.

Tickets from $11.60 nprsr.qld.gov.au 能 够 观 赏 一 群 蹦 蹦 跳 跳 的 海龟 既 令人愉 快 又幸 运。夏季到来，在位于昆士兰州的 蒙利普斯海龟中心（MON REPOS TURTLE CENTRE）有机会见证自然的奇迹。这里拥 有最多数量的濒临绝种的红海龟，孵化8周 后，100余只破壳而出的海龟幼崽穿越沙滩， 奔向自由的海洋。有计划的旅行会带来最好 的观赏结果，导游会预测准确的时间和地点 来增加您看到这一景观的几率。然而，蒙利 普斯并不是刚出壳的海龟幼崽的唯一栖息 地，赫伦岛（HERON ISLAND）和伊利特女 士岛（LADY ELLIOT ISLAND）也是昆士兰州 很棒的海龟观赏点。票价：11.6澳元起。

Lucky bird watchers will catch a glimpse of the elusive cassowary in the vast Daintree Rainforest

Turtle hatchlings make their way across the sand

#10 Chance encounters Daintree Forest, Queensland While most of the other experiences on our list deal with the well-known Australian wildlife, the Daintree Forest in Queensland is home to some of the more elusive creatures – mainly the cassowary. This rare flightless bird is an endangered cousin of the emu and is primarily found in the 1,200km² Daintree, the largest rainforest in Australia. Like finding a needle in a haystack, the cassowary is the crown jewel of bird watching – just be careful as they can be aggressive, so steer clear. That said, crashing waterfalls, lush verdant rainforest and mountain ranges mean you’ll have plenty left to explore even if you don’t spot this sneaky feathered critter.

Tours start at $95 daintreerainforest.com 位于昆士兰州的戴恩树热带雨林 （DAINTREE FOREST）是某些更加稀珍的 野生动物的栖息地，主要是鹤驼。这种不会 飞的鸟类是鸸鹋的濒危同类，主要分布在澳 大利亚最大、面积达1,200平方公里的戴恩 树热带雨林。虽然寻找鹤鸵如同海里捞针， 但能够看到它们就如同得到皇冠之珠一般。 不过它们极具攻击性，所以要特别小心，注 意躲避。这里还有澎湃湍急的瀑布、郁郁葱 葱的热带雨林和山脉，为您提供多种游览选 择。价格：95澳元起。

46

TA K E O F F

A CONCIER G E’ S GUID E TO...

Sydney

Hilton Sydney Concierge, Ben Thomas, is one of just four in Australia to be a part of the prestigious Les Clefs d’Or association. Ben shares his Sydney hotspots... 悉尼希尔顿酒店礼宾部的本·托马斯（BEN THOMAS），是久负盛名的 国际金钥匙组织（LES CLEF D’OR）澳大利亚区仅有的四名成员之一。 作为金钥匙徽章的佩戴者，本骄傲地分享了他在悉尼的秘密热点……

If you want to try something new, head to... 如果想尝试新的东西，您会去哪里？ The newly established Kensington Street precinct in Chippendale. You’ll find trendy bars, restaurants, cafes, arts and exhibition spaces all located in a former industrial site.

参观位于齐本德尔（CHIPPENDALE）新建的肯辛顿街 （KENSINGTON STREET）购物区。您会在曾为工业区的这 里找到时髦的酒吧、餐馆、咖啡馆、艺术和展览区。

Where to go to get a great picture? 您会选择在哪里摄影？

Ben Thomas is a concierge at Hilton Sydney, and is also a proud wearer of the exclusive Golden Keys badge

My favourite location for photographs would have to be Mrs Macquarie’s Chair in the Botanical Gardens.

Quite spectacular views back over the harbour and city and you can easily take a selfie with the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge in the backdrop.

我 最 喜 欢 的 摄 像 地 点 必 定 是 植 物 园（ B O T A N I C A L GARDENS）里的麦格理夫人石椅（MRS MACQUARIE’S CHAIR）。那里的海港和城市风景相当壮观，再加上悉尼歌 剧院和海港大桥为背景，非常适合来一张自拍。

Where do you take your friends to impress them with great food? 您会带朋友到哪里去品味美食？ Sydney is a food haven with many great restaurants to choose from. I recently dined at Est., located on George Street, which

Hilton Sydney

was delicious. Another noteworthy dining experience was the Owl House in Darlinghurst.

悉尼是美食的天堂，这里有许多很棒的餐厅可以选择。最 近一次是在乔治街（GEORGE STREET）的EST.餐厅，非常的 美味；位于内城区达令赫斯特（DARLINGHURST）的OWL HOUSE餐厅也令人印象深刻。

Tours to go on? 有什么好玩的地方？ A day trip to the Blue Mountains or the Hunter Valley are always quite popular as they are both scenic and showcase Australia’s beautiful landscape. For those a little more adventurous and who would like to be on the water, I’d definitely recommend the Seven Wonders Tour by Fantasea cruises, one of the only water-based tours taking you out of Sydney Harbour.

比 较 受欢 迎 的是 蓝山（B LU E M O U N TA I N S）或猎人谷 （HUNTER VALLEY）一日游。这两个都是旅游胜地，可以饱 览澳大利亚美丽如画的风景。对于那些喜欢在水上冒险的 人，我肯定会推荐幻多奇巡航游轮（FANTASEA CRUISES） 的七大奇迹梦幻之旅（SEVEN WONDERS TOUR），这也是 唯一能带您离开悉尼港的水上旅行项目之一。

Attractions to avoid? 要避开哪些时间点？ I’d avoid any last-minute bookings to popular attractions on public holidays such as New Year’s Eve or Australia Day – whether it’s a cruise on the harbour, or a visit to the popular beaches!

我不推荐在公众假期（如新年前夜）的最后关头预订去一些 著名的景点，不论是海港游轮或是广受欢迎的海滩！

Where to go to get a view like no other? 在哪里可以看到独特的风景？ I’d suggest the rooftop of the Glenmore Hotel in The Rocks for a perfect view across the harbour while enjoying a nice drink and bite to eat. Since you’re in the area, pop down to The Rocks Markets, which are also great to check-out. They take place from 10am – 5pm on Saturdays.

Kensington Street Social in Chippendale

48

我推荐岩石区（THE ROCKS）的GLENMORE HOTEL，在酒店 屋顶一边享受美酒美食，一边欣赏独一无二的完美风景。

HOW WOULD YOU FEEL SUSPENDED 270M ABOVE THE VALLEY? FEEL SMALL AGAIN Just 90 minutes from Sydney. Tickets from $39 per person.

BOOK TODAY AT SCENICWORLD.COM.AU

TA K E O F F

入住酒店

欢迎回家

Welcome home It’s what so many hotels strive to achieve, but often fall short: re-creating that ‘homely feel.’ But Durham House will have you wanting to move straight in...

很多酒店都力求营造家的感觉，但往往难以 实现。打造“家一般的温馨感觉”并不容易， 但DURHAM HOUSE将让您欲罢不能 Set in a 1920s worker’s cottage that has been gutted and revamped, Durham House is a guesthouse located in Brisbane’s cultural precinct, West End. If you’re travelling in a group you can book out the entire house, which sleeps six, or if you’re escaping for a romantic weekend for two you can just reserve a single room. The details are what set Durham House apart. Each room is perfectly groomed with fresh white walls and textured furnishings, looking like they’re straight from the pages of an interior design magazine. Spend lazy afternoons soaking in the Queensland sun from the wrap-around verandah.

From $800 per night, durhamhouse.com.au DURHAM HOUSE是一间位于布里斯班文化区——西区 （WEST END）的家庭旅馆，原为一间20世纪20年代的工 人小屋，被损毁后翻新而成。如果是团体出游，您可以预 订整间房屋，供6人入住；如果想享受属于两个人的浪漫周 末，您可以只预订一个房间。DURHAM HOUSE与众不同 之处在于细节。每个房间都精心搭配洁白的墙壁和有质感 的家具，看上去和室内设计杂志中的情景如出一辙。在环 绕走廊中沐浴昆士兰州的阳光，度过慵懒的午后时光吧。 每晚800澳元起。

50

Images clockwise from top: Modern interiors are perfectly styled; the outside patio is a stellar spot for afternoon drinks; families travelling with children will appreciate the spacious backyard

Hotel check-in

NEW SHANGHAI

澳洲 上海美食 Authentic Chinese Cuisine

老 字 号

,

旅客优惠 READERS OFFER 当您在以上任意一家新上海用餐时，出示一张此广告的照片，连同您的登 机牌即可免费获得一份小笼包。 Snap the image of this advertisement, present it together with your boarding pass at any of the listed New Shanghai outlets and receive one complimentary serve of Xiao Long Bao when you dine at New Shanghai.

*附加有条款和条件 | *Terms & Conditions Apply

传承 经 典 www.newshanghai.com.au newshanghairestaurant @newshanghai

如诗如画的圣诞岛 潘华 从 珀斯经三个半小时的飞行可到达 世界闻名的美丽岛屿- -圣诞岛， 这是澳大利亚的海上明珠。1643 年，英国航海家威廉·迈纳斯（WILLIAM MYNORS）发现该岛，因为正值圣诞节，故取 名为圣诞岛。1888年圣诞岛并入英国，1942 年－1945年间被日军占领。二战结束后，1946 年起成为英属新加坡的领地。 在新加坡自治前的1957年，澳大利亚要求 英国将圣诞岛主权移交给澳大利亚，经谈判 后共同签署了《1958年圣诞岛法令》，澳大利 亚同意付给新加坡290英镑作为补偿。于是圣 诞岛在1958年10月1日正式移交给澳大利亚 管理，成为澳大利亚的海外领地。 该岛总面积60 0平方公里，其中陆地面积 为363平方公里，人口大约是210 0人，其中华

52

人占绝大多数，约70%，欧洲人为20%，马来 人占10%。除了英语是官方语言之外，粤语与 马来语也是民间通用的语言。 圣诞岛是世界上最小的岛屿之一，由海底 山峰的顶部形成，岛上最高峰是海拔361米的 摩雷山(MURRAY HILL)，位于岛的西部。岛的 四周为珊瑚礁所环绕，外侧遍布暗礁，巨浪冲 天，汹涌澎湃，内侧细浪轻柔，风光绮丽。海 岸边珊瑚碎片形成了银白色的沙滩，在阳光下 熠熠发光。退潮时，珊瑚礁的尖顶露出水面， 琼堆玉砌，晶莹剔透，顺着细腻的海滩延伸， 形成一个宽数百米的环岛珊瑚带。 圣诞岛属热带海洋性气候，大部分被热带 雨林覆盖。岛上树木茂盛，碧翠欲滴，遍地是 挺拔的槟榔、叶大如伞的热带山芋、香蕉、菠 萝、面包树以及大片的椰林。

圣诞岛盛产磷矿，从1899年开始，就有大 批中国劳工到岛上开采磷矿，他们凝聚着 华人的力量与智慧，为岛上的经济文化 发展作出了巨大的贡献。在岛上倒处 可见的各类庙宇：城隍庙、朝天宫、 妈祖庙等，见证了华人移民艰辛的 奋斗历程。岛上保留着几处完好 的华人墓地，在靠海一侧路边， 有一片近四百人的华人墓碑群， 碑文一律朝北面向故国。在磷 矿山上还有一个更古老的华人 墓地。周围丛林茂密，极其隐 蔽，墓碑方向也同样朝北。中 华民族的向心力和凝聚力是 海外华人赖以生存和发展的 根本和动力。中国农历新年是 圣诞岛法定节假日，全岛放假 二天，这足以显示圣诞岛华人 文化的影响力。 集邮在圣诞岛有着悠久的历 史和特色，凡到圣诞岛的游客都 要去观光和选购圣诞岛的邮票。 从1994年的狗年起，圣诞岛率先 发行中国生肖邮票。从1996年1月9 日发行鼠年邮票开始，圣诞岛正式展 开了一轮生肖邮票的发行。世界上只有 少数几个国家和地区成套地发行中国生 肖邮票。 圣诞岛除了如诗如画的美景，悠久的华人 文化传统外，还有三大特别看点，俗称圣诞岛 三宝。那就是：紅蟹、鯨鯊和水手鳥。 红蟹又叫红地蟹，平均寿命35年左右。圣 诞岛上的红蟹总数估计至少有120 0万只。它 们平时住在森林中的地洞里，每年初夏时，千 万只红蟹成群结队浩浩荡荡地穿过马路和树 丛到达海滩，那真是水上水下一片红，景象极 其壮观。每个母蟹在水下会排出大约10万个 卵，这些卵的大部分都被鲸鲨和其它鱼类食 用。存活下来的卵孵成小蟹，在长到5毫米左 右后又会踏上从海滩到森林家园的征途，在 那里生长四到五年再加入到去海边生育的大 军中。 不计其数的美味蟹卵，吸引了巨大的鲸鲨 不远千里来到圣诞岛周围的海域，这种长达 20米的鲸鲨据说是地球上现存的最大鱼类， 它们在那里贪婪又尽情地享受难得的蟹卵大 餐，手无寸铁的红蟹们毫无办法，只能望鲨 兴叹。 圣诞岛是候鸟的天堂，有超过10 0种的 鸟。至少8万个鸟巢，在岛上任何地方都能听 到鸟的歌声，其中最著名的是水手鸟。这种 鸟个子不大，有条长尾巴，鸟体淡黄颜色非 常漂亮，飞行速度很快，只有圣诞岛才有， 因而观赏水手鸟也成为圣诞岛旅游的必备 项目之一。

Illustration: Millie Jia

TA K E O F F

PA L M B E A CH

可餐秀色 A VIEW TO

DINE FOR

54

It might only be 45 minutes from Sydney, but you’ll feel worlds away. Escape the city life in Palm Beach, the hideaway playground for Sydney’s elite 棕榈海滩（Palm Beach）距离悉尼 仅45分钟，却恍若置身另一世界。 这里是悉尼的菁英阶层抛开城市生 活、享受短期休假的世外桃源

PA L M B E A CH

A

ffectionately called ‘Palmie’ by the locals and surfers, this Sydney peninsula escape defines what it is to be an Aussie beach town. The massive waves on Palm Beach are dotted with wetsuit (wetty)-clad surfers, the cafes are bustling with locals and the most expensive mansions in Sydney hide in the cliffs running through the centre of town. But despite the luxe homes and Lamborghinis parked for a quick coffee run, you won’t see any suits or overhear business conversations. In fact, you’ll rarely even see people wearing shoes. This is a town to escape, relax and unwind.

Whether you’re on your first visit or are one of Sydney’s rich and famous, the attraction isn’t difficult to understand. There’s an intimacy anyone familiar with Australia will feel the instant they arrive – that famous Aussie beach culture at its best. Once you round a few twisting bends and see the first few mansions peeking out from behind steep driveways and manicured gardens, you’ll know you’re in a whole new league.

Bordered by the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, the yacht filled Pittwater Bay and the entire Tasman Sea, Palm Beach is something of a secluded island separated from all the rush and rules of Sydney. The main road through town is surrounded by water on all sides and lined with palm trees reminiscent of travelling to Key West south of Florida, only without all the bars and tourist hotspots. >

当

地人和冲浪者亲切地称其为“小 棕榈” （Palmie），这片悉尼半岛 世外桃源是澳大利亚海滩城市的 完美定义。澎湃的海浪拍打着海滩，身穿 潜水服的冲浪者点缀其中，咖啡馆里当地 人熙熙攘攘，悉尼最昂贵的宅邸就隐藏在 穿城而过的悬崖之下。除了奢华的宅邸和 咖啡馆外暂时停靠的兰博基尼，这里没有 西装革履，也不闻商务谈话。其实，大部分 人连鞋都不必穿。这里是逃离烦嚣之地， 是休憩放松之所。 无论是初游至此的访客，抑或是悉尼的 富贵名流，都能轻松领会棕榈海滩的诱人 之处。熟悉澳大利亚的人刚刚抵达这里就 会感受到一种亲切感。著名的澳大利亚海 滩文化在这里展现得淋漓尽致。转过几个 曲折回转的弯道，几座豪宅从陡峭的私人 车道后面显露身影，修剪整齐的花园缓缓 展现，此刻您将深刻地感受到置身与众不 同的空间。 棕 榈 海 滩 与 库 灵 盖 狩 猎 地 国 家公 园 （Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park） 隔水相望，一侧是停满游艇的皮特沃特湾 （Pittwater Bay），另一侧则是广袤的塔 斯曼海（Tasman Sea）。棕榈海滩自成 一岛，远离繁忙的悉尼，也没有各种规则 的限制。主街道贯穿整座城市，清水环绕 四周，道路两旁排列的棕榈树让人想起美 国弗罗里达南部的基韦斯特（Key West） ，只是这里没有喧闹的酒吧和人满为患的 热门景点。 > 55

56

PA L M B E A CH

“当地居民和餐厅毫不费力地将一份安静 高雅融入充满魅力的澳大利亚海滩文化”

While being one of Sydney’s most loved beach towns, Palm Beach has avoided the tourist trappings of similar popular destinations. In fact, apart from the homes dominating the hills that tower over Palm Beach, there’s not a whole lot else in town. But what ‘Palmie’ lacks in quantity, it certainly makes up for in quality.

ROCK THE BOATHOUSE

Whether you’ve driven up for the day, caught a sea-plane from Sydney or have planned an extended stay, you’ll have a handful of distractions that will keep you busy for the day – or even weeks. Any Aussie will tell you your first stop to any beach town is to fuel up on some coffee and brekky, and although there aren’t a whole lot of options, there’s definitely only one stop worth your time.

The Boathouse on Pittwater Bay – quite literally the furthest building up the peninsula – is the ‘Palmie’ darling for all things breakfast, coffee and breathtaking views. The Boathouse has become the envy of the Northern Beaches cafes. Housed on its own private jetty with views over Pittwater speckled with sailing boats and yachts, you’ll find this homely restaurant.

Part local cafe, part flower-and-fruit market and part seafood restaurant, the Boathouse embraces everything the area is known for: chic meets local.

The entrance picnic area is adorned with lounging deck chairs, glass baubles hanging from palm trees and striped umbrellas. Inside you’ll be lured by the smell of coffee, freshly baked breads and local cheeses. The counter is packed with all things sweet, fruit packed tarts, homemade jams and fresh fruit. And the tables on the outdoor patio overlooking the water are spread with plates of fish, oysters, burgers and chips. “We are definitely a destination cafe in Palm Beach”, says the Boathouse general manager Heath Bambridge. “The moment you get here you’ll feel like you’re on a holiday.

The flowers, the fruit, the relaxed environment draws you in and we want everyone to come in and feel like a >

棕榈海滩是悉尼最受喜爱的海滨城市， 却没有像类似景区那样费心地吸引游客。 事 实上，除了高高的山上俯 视 整个棕 榈 海滩的豪宅，城市里的其他建筑并不多。 但是“小棕榈”本就不追求过多的游客数 量，而是专注于创造高品质体验。 不管您计划自驾一日游还是从悉尼搭 乘水上飞机，抑或打算小住一段时间，这 里都有一些消遣方式让您充实地度过这 段时光。任何一位澳大利亚人都会告诉您 的是，不管去哪个海滨城市，抵达后的第 一件事就是喝些咖啡、吃好早餐，准备好 充足的体力。在棕榈海滩，可供选择之处 不算多，但是有一个地方绝对不容错过。 The Boathouse位于皮特沃特湾，确 切的说是半岛上最 远的建筑。这里有“小 棕榈”最 好的早餐、咖啡和令人惊叹的风 景。The Boathouse受到所有北部海滩 （Northern Beaches）咖啡馆的艳羡。像 家一样舒适的餐厅坐落于自有码头之上，环 顾四周可以欣赏到皮特沃特湾的动人景色， 帆船和游艇点缀其中。The Boathouse既 是当地咖啡馆，也是鲜花水果市场和海鲜餐 厅，当地一切著名之处都能在这里找到，既 时髦别致，又充满当地风情。 入口处的野餐区放置着舒适的折叠躺 椅，棕榈树和彩色条纹遮阳伞上挂坠着玻 璃饰品。向里走去，空气中萦绕着咖啡、 新 焙面包 和当地奶酪的诱人香味。柜 架 上摆满了各种甜食、水果馅饼、自制果酱 和新鲜水果。在水面上方的室外露台，餐 桌上摆放着一盘盘海鱼、牡蛎、汉堡和薯 条。The Boathouse总经理希斯·班布里 奇（Heath Bambridge）说， “这里是到 访棕榈岛必到的咖啡馆。顾客一来到这里 就会感受到这才是真正的度假。鲜花、水 果、轻松的氛围吸引着顾客，我们希望每 位顾客都感觉到自己是贵宾。这里是悉尼 >

Above: The Boathouse is Palm Beach’s ultimate coffee, breakfast and dining destination

57

PA L M B E A CH

空中畅游

HIGH FLYER Sure, you could always drive the 45 minutes to Palm Beach or even set sail by yacht from Sydney, but nothing can compare to flying high over the Northern Beaches by seaplane. For the privacy conscious, time conscious or those just looking to take in the majestic sights of Sydney’s surrounding beaches and national parks, a great option is to charter a seaplane from Rose Bay and fly north to the tip of the peninsula.

Sydney Seaplanes offers a flight directly into Pittwater followed by a quick trip up to Jonah’s for a four-course lunch with unmatched views. There’s nothing better than saving time while taking in the views and a spot of lunch. 前往棕榈海滩，可以自驾 45分钟或者从悉尼乘坐游 艇，但是这些都比不上乘 坐水上飞机，从高空中俯 瞰整个北部海滩。不管您 想来点私密时光或是节省 时间，抑或俯瞰悉尼周边 海滩和国家公园的壮丽美 景，您的最佳选择是从玫 瑰湾（Rose Bay）租乘一 架水上飞机，一路向北飞 到半岛北端。悉尼水上飞 机可以直飞至皮特沃特， 然后到Jonah’s享受四菜 午餐并欣赏无与伦比的美 景。既节省时间，又可欣赏 美景，还能享用美味午餐， 还有什么能比这更好呢。

Tours start at $650 seaplanes.com.au

58

PA L M B E A CH

“THIS ICONIC PILLAR OF THE COMMUNITY SITS HIGH ON THE CLIFF TOPS AT THE PEAK OF THE PENINSULA LOOKING OUT OVER PALM BEACH” VIP. It’s a snapshot of what Sydney is like. Great views, friendly staff and delicious food and coffee.”

The oceanside vibe is strong here. Every detail is fashioned after – you guessed it – a boathouse. Fishing nets are strewn around the room, the umbrellas resemble nautical sails and you can’t ignore the gentle lapping of the ocean under the wooden floorboards.

And once the plates filled with seafood start rolling by, you’ll be sure to mark the Boathouse as a new favourite.

“The food is heavily local. It’s elegant but simple food; dishes that are iconic to the Boathouse. We use high-end produce but let the ingredients speak for themselves, like a simple bucket of prawns, beer-battered flathead and chips and the fresh catch of the day,” Bambridge says. “I grew up in Palm Beach and I’ve seen so much change since the Boathouse came along nine years ago.

It’s been able to create a real sense of community and also bring tourism into the area.”

Above: The Barrenjoey Lighthouse remains spectacular whether viewed up close or from afar

的缩影。壮丽的景观，友好的员工，美味 的食物，还有咖啡。” 这里洋溢着浓烈的海滨氛围。正如您 所猜到的，每个细节都以船库为主题设计 而成。房间周围散落着渔网，遮阳伞的形 状就像船帆，海水轻轻拍打着木质地板。 当盛满了海鲜的盘子在您身边传送起来， 此刻，您一定会把The Boathouse加入最 爱餐厅的名单里。班布里奇说， “食物非常 具有当地特色。The Boathouse的标志性 餐品既优雅又简单。我们采用高端食材， 但是注重让食材展现自己的光彩，比如简 简单单的一桶虾、啤酒鲬鱼、薯条和当天 新捕的海鲜。我在棕榈海滩长大，自从9年 前The Boathouse开始营业，这里发生了 很大变化。它创造了真正的社区感，为当 地带来了大量游客。” 饱餐了海鱼、薯条 和 咖 啡，来到棕 榈 海滩一定要去的下一站是不远处的巴伦 乔伊灯塔（Barrenjoey Lighthouse）。 巴伦乔伊灯塔是当地的标志性建筑，高高 立于悬崖之巅，俯视着整个棕榈海滩。要 到这里欣赏北岸海滩最壮丽的景观，需从 The Boathouse步行方能抵达，但是请相 信，30分钟的步行中每一步都非常值得。 记得穿上步行鞋，带上几瓶水，因为虽然 道路得到精心养护，但是步行路线本身相 >

LIGHT THE WAY

After a stomach full of fish, chips and coffee the next stop on any Palm Beach itinerary is the nearby Barrenjoey Lighthouse. This iconic pillar of the community sits high on the cliff tops at the peak of the peninsula looking out over Palm Beach. From the Boathouse you’ll have to travel by foot to reach one of the best views in the Northern Beaches – but trust us, this 30-minute hike is worth every step. Strap on your walking shoes and pack some water as the hike itself is quite steep; although the path is perfectly maintained.

The walking loop winds slowly up the incredible headland offering glimpses of the views between bushland. You’ll pass locals out for their morning stroll with a coffee in one hand and their dog lead in the other, as well as tourists making the journey for the first time.

Once you reach the lighthouse climbers are rewarded with full 360-degree sweeping views. Look down upon the calm waters of Pittwater, the crashing waves of Palm Beach and the distant West Head and Lion Island beautifully obscured by the saltwater air.

The lighthouse itself is more than just a marker for the hike; for history lovers, it houses old-day tidbits that helped to shape Sydney as we know it. By the 1850s, Pittwater, Broken Bay and the Hawkesbury River had become Sydney’s largest shipping routes with the > 59

PA L M B E A CH

Barrenjoey point being the only location to guide the way. Starting off as just two suspended lanterns, by 1881 the Barrenjoey Lighthouse was erected and can be seen 40km out to sea.

For those less enthused with nautical history, the views with the occasional seaplane floating by are the clear highlight. Small trails branch from the main path leading to lookouts, each offering a new perspective on the land below. If you avoided stuffing yourself at the Boathouse, a quick picnic of cheese and wine is definitely recommended.

Considering you’re at Palm Beach, a dip in Palm Beach itself is your natural next stop. This stretch of golden sand leads from the high cragged cliffs of Barrenjoey Point to the mansion-sprinkled cliffside in town. The blessing and the curse of the beach is that, apart from enjoying the beach itself, there’s little else to do along the way, save for a surf shop and small coffee joint. So embrace the pace, slow down and enjoy what Australian beaches are best known for.

ITS NAME IS JONAH’S

Between all the star-studded houses leading to the peak of the hill overlooking Palm and Whale Beach lies Jonah’s, one of the claims to fame in the area. Starting its life as a roadhouse in the 1930s, Jonah’s has evolved into one of Sydney’s most luxurious hotels and highend restaurants. You’ll be instantly blown away by the panoramic views over Whale Beach and the multimillion-dollar homes leading down to the shore, but this lavish boutique hotel perched high above town is much more than just its views. With only 11 rooms and a penthouse, Jonah’s strives for exclusivity for their patrons. The minimalist design and gentle ocean colours reinforce a sense of the area, while the open rooms with private balconies are built with relaxation in mind.

The staff are all hands on deck for those staying here with the bar and restaurant your main port of call.

The full team of chefs led by Logan Campbell have worked hard to craft a memorable modern Australian menu with a French influence that fully embraces the atmosphere and vibe of the area, backed by a renowned wine list and sommelier. It’s simple yet sophisticated.

“Palm Beach isn’t most Sydneysiders first port of call.

Instead, it’s more of a oasis getaway to escape the city rat race,” says Campbell. “At 86 years old, Jonah’s is easily one of the oldest restaurants in Sydney, so it’s up to us to continue to evolve and produce a fantastic product for the locals and tourists.” >

Right: Jonah’s (pictured, with dishes) has been providing luxury accommodation and dining in Palm Beach for 86 years

60

当陡峻，蜿蜒曲折地绕上山岬，原始林区 在远处呈现一丝身影。一路上，既有一手 拿着咖啡、一手牵着爱狗晨起散步的当地 人，也有第一次来这里旅行的游客。 抵达灯塔后，360°广阔视野尽展眼前。 俯瞰四周，皮特沃 特水 域 风平浪静，澎湃 的海浪拍打着棕榈海滩；眺 望远方，西角 （West Head）和狮子岛（Lion Island） 在海水湿气中露出优美而模糊的身影。灯塔 本身不仅受到徒步爱好者的喜爱，对于历史 爱好者也很有吸引力。这里流传着许多古老 珍闻，是今天的悉尼不可分离的一部分。19 世纪50年代，皮特沃特、布罗肯湾（Broken Bay）和霍克伯里河（Hawkesbury）成为 悉尼最大的航线，而巴伦乔伊角是唯一能够 指引方向的位置。巴伦乔伊灯塔建成于1881 年，最初只有两盏高高挂起的灯笼，在海上 40公里外就能看见。 若是对航海历史不感兴趣，就全身心享 受动人的景色吧，时而还可看到水上飞机飞 过。离开主路走上岔路小径，每一条小径尽 头的瞭望台都是俯瞰美景的全新角度。如 果没有在The Boathouse吃得太多，不妨 在此野餐，奶酪配葡萄酒是不错的选择。 既然来到了棕榈海滩，就不能不在美丽的 海滩上漫步。金色海滩从巴伦乔伊角高高的

PA L M B E A CH

悬崖一直延伸到小镇中豪宅散落的悬崖边。 海滩的好处和坏处在于除了欣赏风景、在冲 浪商店和小咖啡馆稍作流连之外，能做的事 情并不多。所以尽情跟随这种节奏吧，放慢 脚步，感受澳大利亚海滩的最动人之处。 通 往 俯 视 整 个棕 榈 海 滩 和 鲸 鱼 海 滩 （Whale Beach）的高山之巅，一路上 尽是明星荟 萃的豪华 宅 邸，当地 著名的 Jonah’s便坐落其中。始于20世纪30年 代，Jonah’s最初只是一家路边旅馆，如 今已经成为悉尼最奢华的酒店和高级餐厅 之一。在Jonah’s眺望鲸鱼海滩全景，看 着价值数百万美元的豪宅一直延伸到海 岸，如此景色定会让您惊叹。但是这家俯 视全城的奢华精品酒店不仅仅因景色而出 名。Jonah’s只有11间客房和1套顶层豪 华套间，为顾客创造独特专享体验是其不 懈的追求。极简抽象风格设计和轻柔的海 洋色彩突出了地区感，而带有私人阳台的 开放式房间让人倍感放松。 对 于 来 到 这 里 的 顾 客，员 工 就 是 您 的船员，酒 吧 和餐厅就 是 您的主要靠泊 港。主 厨 团 队由洛 根·坎 贝 尔（L o g a n Campbell）带领，努力奉上让人印象深 刻的现代澳大利亚餐品。带有法式特色的 餐品完全迎合周围的氛围，并配有多种著 > 61

PA L M B E A CH

Visiting Jonah’s is all about indulgence. And with views this stunning, it would be a waste to not have an equally stunning menu. Primarily seafood-based, the dishes spare no expense when it comes to quality.

Huge local lobsters and trays of fresh oysters are ferried through the room, along with more technique-driven dishes such as the fricassée of Moreton Bay Bugs on a pea and mint purée. “Our menu is driven by highend seafood. We use the best local produce that best matches the atmosphere of the views, the ocean and the area,” says Campbell.

Jonah’s blends its fine food with its majestic views creating a destination worth making the trip for. “Palm Beach is definitely one of the most attractive areas in Sydney, so it’s a must for visitors. Sydney Seaplanes is a big part of our business. Tourists are able to take in the views, enjoy the area and see the real Sydney suburbs, then come for a great experience at Jonah’s.”

You may come to Palm Beach for the day, but you’ll be left wanting to come back every weekend – or perhaps even browsing the local real estate prices. The locals and restaurants effortlessly blend the charms of Australian beach culture with a quiet sophistication. It’s a town to escape to, not one that caters to the masses.

62

EAT THE BOATHOUSE PALM BEACH Barrenjoey Boathouse, Governor Phillip Park, Palm Beach +61 2 99745440 theboathousepb.com.au

JONAH’S 69 Bynya Road, Whale Beach +61 2 9974 5599 jonahs.com.au

BARRENJOEY HOUSE 1108 Barrenjoey Road, Palm Beach +61 2 9974 4001 barrenjoeyhouse.com.au

名葡萄酒和出色的酒侍服务，简单而精致 考究。执行主厨洛根·坎贝尔说， “棕榈海 滩并非大多数悉尼人临时停留的首选地， 而是逃离拥挤城市的一片绿洲。Jonah’s 拥有8 6 年历史，是 悉尼最古老的餐厅之 一，我们要做的是不断进步，为当地人和 游客奉献最精彩的食物。” 来到Jonah’s，一切只与纵情享受有 关。景色如此动人，若没有与之相配的美 食岂不可惜。餐品以海鲜为主，不计成本， 只求质量上 乘。巨大的当地龙 虾和 一盘 盘新鲜牡蛎在餐厅里来回传送，同时还有 更为精致的菜品，比如点缀着莫瑞顿小龙 虾浓汁肉丁的豌豆薄荷浓汤。坎贝尔说， “我们的餐品以高级海鲜为主，采用最好 的当地食材。美食与美景、海洋和周围环 境最为相配，同样令人惊叹。” Jonah’s将精致美食和壮观景色完美 结合，是旅行必去之处。 “棕榈海滩绝对是 悉尼地区最有吸引力的地点之一，是旅行 必到的地方。悉尼水上飞机带来的顾客占 很大一部分。乘坐水上飞机的游客一路欣 赏美景，享受整个地区，看到真正的悉尼郊 区，然后来到Jonah’s享受美妙体验。” 或许，您原本只想在棕榈岛度过一天， 但是现在，您多么希望每周都能再回到这 里。说不定您正在搜索这里的房价呢。当 地居民和餐厅毫不费力地将一份安静高雅 融入充满魅力的澳大利亚海滩文化。这是 一座逃离城市烦嚣的岛屿，而非迎合大众 的旅游景点。

N AT U R E H O T E L S

走进大自然

INTO THE WILD

中国超现代的钢筋玻璃大厦可能十 分耀眼夺目，但只有在这些以大自然 为灵感的幽静休隐之所，您才可以 开始真正地放松……艾丽西娅·米勒 （Alicia Miller）如是写道 China’s ultra-modern glass and steel monoliths might dazzle, but it’s at these tranquil hideaways inspired by the great outdoors that you’ll really start to unwind, writes Alicia Miller 64

N AT U R E H O T E L S

65

N AT U R E H O T E L S

`

杭州西子湖四季酒店

Four Seasons HANGZHOU Perched on the edge of a fairytale lake, there’s something poetic to the Four Seasons Hangzhou.

Its location plays no small part. This very spot, the 650-hectare West Lake, and its islands dotted with temples, vaulted bridges and pavilions, has inspired Chinese artists and writers since the ninth century.

And when you stay here, there’s no escaping the watery lifestyle. For starters, you’ll arrive to the resort by traditional wooden rowboat, a 45-minute shoulderunclenching journey that feels like you’re being whisked to another, more ancient, world. While Four Seasons prides itself on its five-star accommodations, it also respects its surroundings. The lagoons, streams and ponds that knit the hotel grounds together always keep water in view, especially from the terrace of your spacious, russet-and-taupe-hued room. Need a quiet moment to process it all? There are even 11 private dining rooms encircling a garden lagoon, so you can focus on the beauty of nature rather than your neighbour’s chit-chat. And the on-site 20-metre infinity ‘pond’ even looks like a mini-version of a real lake, complete with cascading levels and a pebbly fringe.

Throw in the classic Four Seasons top-notch service and you’ll find yourself in succumbing to the serenity that is Hangzhou. Now this is a version of nature we could definitely get used to…

From $802 per night fourseasons.com/hangzhou Top: Guests arrive via a traditional wooden rowboat Right: Views from your terrace soak in the natural setting

66

杭州西子湖四季酒店位于仙境般的西子 湖畔，整座酒店充满着诗情画意。酒店的 地理位置绝佳，面积达650公顷的西湖、 湖上的岛屿、点缀其中的众多寺庙、拱桥 和凉亭，所有这些自公元9世纪起就成为 了中国无数文人墨客的灵感来源。下榻酒 店，您会发现这儿的一切都离不开水。首 先，您将乘坐传统的木船来到度假村，45 分钟的行程会让您彻底放松，摇啊摇，摇 啊摇，仿佛穿越时空，回到了古代。泻湖、 溪 流 和池 塘将酒店的庭院连接起 来，所

以您的视野中总会有水景。进入宽敞的黄 褐色和灰褐色色调的房间后，从房间的阳 台来看更是如此。想要找个安静的地方来 品味这一切？花园泻湖旁边环绕着11间私 密的餐厅，这样您可以关注大自然的美景 而不是邻桌们的闲聊。此外，酒店20米长 的无边界“水池”看起来像是迷你版的真 湖一般，甚至还有一级级的台阶和鹅卵石 池边。尽情享受四季酒店的经典顶级服务 吧，这儿真地可以让您习惯成“自然”。每 晚：802澳元起。

N AT U R E H O T E L S

青城山六善酒店

Six Senses QING CHENG MOUNTAIN Foraged in shades of naked woods, glossy browns and neutral greys, and gently shaded by patches of trees, the Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain is so well integrated into its encompassing landscape that it almost appears to have sprouted straight from the earth. Tucked at the gateway to the mountains that give it its name, Six Senses is bordered by peaks that turn purple-blue in the dusk light. It also happens to be on the edge of the city of Dujiangyan – but you’ll feel miles away from civilisation, let alone a city.

Bedrooms, furnished in light-hued neutrals, tall ceilings and crisp alabaster sheets, feel airy and bright, and the bathrooms are equipped with bathtubs boasting a garden view. Being here is all about interacting with nature on a subtle scale. Take a tai chi lesson upon waking, or a soothing Shen spa ritual, which includes a relaxing herbal bath, in the afternoon. Dining is outside at every possible opportunity, whether it’s lunching on the private day bed in your villa, munching steamed pao buns or dumplings from the takeaway Wok Mee shack on the grounds, or taking dinner under the outdoor roofs of the on-site Sala Thai restaurant. There’s even a farm-to-fork restaurant using produce from the hotel’s own garden. If that’s not a connection with nature, what is?

From $396 per night sixsenses.com

墙体呈亮棕和中灰色，仿佛天然丛林的 阴影，青城山六善酒店掩映于绿树丛中， 与周围的景观完美融合在一起，几乎像是 直 接从 土 地 里 生长出来的一 般。青城山 六善酒店隐藏于青城山山口，并因此而得 名。酒店毗邻数座山峰，这些山峰在暮光 之中会变幻为蓝紫色。卧室为浅色中性色 调，挑高的天花板、光洁雪白的床单，一切 都让人感到明亮整洁。浴室里配有浴缸， 您可一边沐浴一边欣赏花园的景观。在这 儿，一切活动都可以让您以微妙的方式与 自然互动——您可以边走路边打太极，或 者在午后做个抚慰身心的“神”水疗，其中 包括可以令人放松的药草浴。大部分用餐 都在室外享用，您可以在别墅的私人沙发 床上享受庭院小吃吧的外带午餐，津津有 味地品尝蒸包或水饺，或者在酒店内的沙 拉泰餐厅户外屋顶下享用晚餐。这儿甚至 还有一家“农场到餐桌”餐厅，所使用的 食材均来自酒店自己的菜园。如果这还不 叫与自然水乳交融，那什么才是呢？ 每晚：396澳元起。

Top: Sala Thai restaurant is just one dining option Left: Villas come with their own private pools

67

N AT U R E H O T E L S

上海璞丽酒店

The PuLi SHANGHAI Peer out through the soaring windows that line the PuLi’s chilled-out, richly hued Long Bar, and you’ll clap eyes on towering pines and rows of manicured hedges.

It’s as if you’re sitting in deep wildernesses draining that glass of sauvignon. But you’re not: this is the centre of Shanghai. The PuLi’s clever landscaping and natural, smooth-lined design makes this slick modern hotel feel like it’s a thousand miles from city hustle and bustle.

But in truth Jing’An – the city’s central district, eternally popular with visitors – is right on your doorstep. The PuLi is truly the best of both worlds: after a hectic day in this ever-chugging city, you can return to the hotel’s quiet corners to revive, not least its 25-metre swimming pool or sumptuous spa, one of the city’s finest. In the latter, green, white and rose teas infuse the spa treatments, so your body can drink in the goodness of the great outdoors without ever leaving the massage table. Bedrooms are just as soothing: the wood-rich suites feel both nature-touched and sophisticated. As for all of those lovely trees and hedges? They’re more than just show for the bar. They fringe a pond-flecked outdoor dining area, where you can down one of Shanghai’s finest selections of wine and champagne.

City sophistication meets middle-of-nowhere charm?

We’ll be booking that room for two weeks, thanks.

From $404 per night thepuli.com 璞丽酒店的长吧休闲舒适、色调丰富， 穿过长吧一侧的巨型玻璃窗向外望去，耸 立的松树和一排排修剪整齐的树篱映入眼 帘——仿佛您正闲坐于荒野深山之中，品尝 着那一杯苏维翁葡萄酒。但事实并非如此， 您正处于上海市的中心。璞丽酒店拥有精巧 的园林景观和天然流畅的设计，让人觉得置 身这座现代化的时尚酒店，城市的喧嚣仿 佛远在千里之外。然而，这座酒店实际上正 位于游客往来不绝的上海中心区域——静 安。璞丽酒店的确是个两全其美之所，在这 座快节奏的大都市里度过忙碌的一天后，您 可以回到酒店，在安静的角落里消除疲劳、 恢复精力，特别是这儿还有25米长的游泳 池以及豪华水疗。在享受上海首屈一指的水 疗之时，绿茶、白茶和玫瑰花茶便成为了整 个水疗护理过程的主角，让您的身体无需离 开按摩床便可以饱饮天地之灵气、日月之精 华。卧室同样可以抚慰您的身心，套房里多 是木质家具，既富含大自然的气息，又给人 以高贵典雅之感。至于那些可爱的树木和树 篱呢？它们不仅仅是长吧的装饰，还充当着 户外水景用餐区的外围边界。在这儿，您可 以畅饮上海最好的葡萄酒和香槟。想要在 大都会里感受桃源的魅力？赶快在这里预 订两个星期的房间吧。每晚：404澳元起。 68

Top: Slick is the word from the moment you arrive Bottom: A 25-metre pool awaits your use

N AT U R E H O T E L S

丽江悦榕庄

Banyan Tree LIJIANG Patchworks of canals carve through cobbled streets lined with traditional glazed tiled roofs; shades of green ripple out to snow-dusted mountain peaks. Pictureperfect Lijiang, in China’s Yunnan, is a UNESCO World Heritage site for a reason. Two thousand metres above sea level, within view of the famed Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the Banyan Tree Lijiang appears to melt into the surrounding landscape. It’s all about nature here: not only do the bedrooms come with private gardens, letting the epic outdoors seem to seep in, but the day-to-day life on the resort is also inextricably intertwined with its setting. Join daily yoga, jogging and stretching classes in the grounds, go horseback riding or cycling through historic Lijiang city, or mountain-trek among the tallest glaciers in the world at 5,486 metres up in the sky. But really you needn’t do anything.

Become ‘at one’ with nature simply by lazing about the grounds, whether it’s dining on fine Cantonese dishes next to a koi pond, or succumbing to a spa treatment inspired by the local natural Yunnan ingredients. We’d plump for the Yunnan Bounty, which sees your skin exfoliated with local pearl barley before your muscles are melted with a hot stone massage. Or opt for the Royal Banyan, which is deserving of its name, promising to improve blood circulation and reduce muscular tension. Nature has never been quite this relaxing.

From $622 per night banyantree.com

一段段水道从铺满鹅卵石的街道穿过， 街道两旁是传统的琉璃瓦房顶；绿荫连绵 不绝，一直延续到白雪皑皑的山顶……中 国云南丽江风景如画，被联合国教科文组 织列入世界遗产地也就不足为奇了。丽江 悦榕庄位于海拔2,0 0 0米，可以欣赏到闻 名遐迩的玉龙雪山的美景，而酒店本身似 乎也已融入到周围的环境之中。这儿的一 切皆与自然有关，不仅卧室带有私人花园， 如同让外面史诗般的壮丽景色渗入室内一 般，而且度假村的日常生活似乎也与其环 境紧密交织。您可以在庭院里参加每天的

瑜伽、慢跑和伸展课程，骑马或者骑自行 车穿越丽江古城，或者攀登世界最高冰川 之一— —海拔达5,486米的玉龙雪山。但 实际上您也可以什么都不做，不论是在锦 鲤池旁品尝精致的粤菜，还是享受使用云 南当地天然原料的水疗护理，您只需在庭 院里消闲即可与自然“融为一体”。我们 推荐您选择“云南大礼”套餐。该套餐使 用当地的珍珠牟麦去除肌肤角质，然后辅 以热石按摩令您的肌肉完全放松下来，为 您带来前所未有的放松体验。 每晚：622澳元起。

Top: Banyan Tree Pagoda backed by Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Right: Bedrooms come with their own private gardens

69

N AT U R E H O T E L S

水舍·上海南外滩酒店

The Waterhouse at South Bund SHANGHAI Perched on the meandering lip of Shanghai’s Huangpu river, The Waterhouse isn’t the kind of hotel you’d normally expect to find on the Bund. To the north the popular historic walkway is cluttered with ritzy, ornate, columned and cream-puffed-structures, yet The Waterhouse is gritty and stripped back, thanks to an industrial-chic concrete-and-metal exterior. On first glance you might assume it’s an abandoned building.

Look again, and The Waterhouse feels like an old tanker ready to slice across the Huangpu, an essential watery lifeline to this ancient city. Come inside, and look once more: river views are so well-framed you’ll want to dip a toe right into the water. Fittingly for the space, bedrooms are sleek and exposed, with rough-andready touches such as dove-gray stone bringing an urban feel to otherwise natural blond woods and clean white linens. It all works rather well as a chill-out space – you’ve got city cool, but river serenity – and you’ll be hard-pressed to find many better local viewpoints than the fourth floor rooftop bar. It frames the Huangpu in all its glory as it squiggles along towards futuristic Pudong. The Waterhouse may be in the centre of one of the world’s busiest cities, but it manages the seemingly impossible and shows guests a slower side to Shanghai.

From $247 per night waterhouseshanghai.com Top: The Waterhouse roof looks out towards Pudong Right: Enjoy a meal at renowned restaurant Table No. 1

70

水舍·上海南外滩酒店坐落于蜿蜒曲折 的黄浦江畔，与人们所预期的外滩酒店迥 然不同。酒店的北边是一条历史悠久的人 行道，一座座高档豪华的古典欧式风格建 筑杂乱无章地排列着，人来人往，十分热 闹。不过，酒店本身却显得古老而斑驳。由 于酒店前卫的工业化混凝土和金属外观， 乍一看还以为这儿是一座废弃的建筑。再 看之下，水舍酒店就像一艘老旧的油轮，随 时准备在黄浦江这座古老城市的水上生命 线上乘风破浪。步入其中，黄浦江的风光 一览无余，您甚至会想要把脚尖浸入江水

之中。卧室与整个环境相契合，非常地简洁 明快，除了房间使用鸽灰色的砖石带来一 丝都市的感觉之外，浅色木质家具和干净 整洁的白色亚麻床单都给人以自然之感。 这儿非常适合作为休闲场所，坐拥城市风 尚，奢享江畔静谧，而且您会发现在上海 很难找到几个能比四楼的屋顶酒吧更好的 观景地点了。黄浦江蜿蜒着朝富有未来主 义的浦东奔流而去，水舍·上海南外滩酒店 将其壮丽景色尽收眼底，在这里尽情享受 不一样的上海风情吧。 每晚：247澳元起。

N AT U R E H O T E L S

北京The Orchid酒t店

The Orchid BEIJING When night falls and the garden’s leaves are softly fluttered by breeze, you feel the kind of stillness normally only found in the deepest Chinese countryside. Is this really bustling Beijing? It’s no small feat that The Orchid has managed to create its own little oasis, right in the thick of the historic district. The magnificent stone Bell Tower and green-gilded Drum Tower, twisting old hutongs and the rambling edifices of the famed Forbidden City are all just around the corner. And what an oasis it is: this atmospheric space is full of climbing greens creeping across a traditional circular arch, rosy-hued blooms, and even the odd friendly cat. But The Orchid doesn’t just give good garden: at this hotel the leafiness of outside gets to come in too – in the form of bright ‘garden’ rooms, bedecked with verdant potted shrubs. Splash out on the luxe Yang room, and you’ll even get your own private roof terrace overlooking the flora below. A lazy morning spent up here, sipping a cup of Yunnan blue espresso under the shade of trees, will set you up perfectly for a day of sightseeing. Or, it’ll make you want to blow off your sightseeing plans altogether and while away the day here, until it’s time to sip a glass of wine under the stars.

From $164 per night theorchidbeijing.com

当夜幕降临，花园里的树叶随着微风轻轻 摆动，您在这儿感受到了只有在中国最遥远 的乡村才能找到的宁静— —这儿真的是繁 华喧闹的北京城吗？TheOrchid在历史氛围 浓厚的北京城区建立起了自己的一块小小绿 洲，可谓是一处经典之作。由砖石建成宏伟 的钟楼和鼓楼、曲折的老胡同、举世闻名的 故宫中那错落有致的宏伟宫殿，所有这些距 离The Orchid只有咫尺之遥。这块绿洲到底 是什么样的呢？一座独具一格的小院，无数 绿色攀援植物爬满古色古香的拱门，院子里 满是玫瑰色的花朵，甚至还有一只极为友善 的猫咪。但The Orchid不仅仅是一座美丽的 花园，在这间酒店中，房间内也会像户外一 样绿意盎然——明亮的花园房，许多青翠欲 滴的盆栽植物点缀其中。如果一掷千金入住 豪华的“阳”房间，您甚至可以拥有自己的私 人屋顶露台，将下面的花草树木尽收眼底。 在这儿度过一个慵懒的早晨，您可以在树荫 下啜饮一杯云南蓝咖啡，为接下来一天的观 光活动注入满满活力。或许，它甚至会让您 想要完全放弃观光计划，而是选择在这儿消 磨一天的光阴，直到华灯初上；然后，您可以 在星空下小酌一杯葡萄酒，生活中的压力仿 佛全都消失得无影无踪。每晚：164澳元起。 Top: Leafiness is the name of the game here Left: There are few signs you’re in bustling Beijing

71

N AT U R E H O T E L S

杭州法云安缦度假酒店

Amanfayun HANGZHOU Time moves slower at Amanfayun. Perhaps it’s the oldworld, ancient vibe – in the heart of Hangzhou’s traditional Buddhist monastic zone, there are a whopping seven Buddhist temples accessible by foot alone. Or perhaps it’s the fact this is so obviously a place for reflection and relaxation: the bamboo groves, spindly trees and old-school tiled-roofs peppering the estate only add to the vibe, seeming like they’ve been here for thousands of years. The colour palate everywhere, especially the rooms – decked out with grey stone, dark red woods and typical white-washed walls – is ultra-calming, neutral and natural, reflecting the surroundings of Hangzhou’s West Lake. Glass-walled Restaurant looks out over an evergreen grove, while the relaxed Steam House serves up traditional fare in a simple high-ceilinged pavilion, with outdoor tables for summer dining. Even the spa is cloaked in magnolias, tea bushes and bamboo groves – and their bounty is put to work in treatments. Be gently kneaded with warm bamboo in the placid space after rising to hear the local monks chant at dawn, or marinate in a giant wooden tub alongside local seasonal floral: whatever you choose, you won’t miss modern life.

From $1,090 per night aman.com

72

在法云安缦，时间似乎都放慢了脚步。 这或许是因为旧世界的古老氛围。在杭州 古色古香的佛教寺院区的核心地带，步行 即可前往多达7座佛寺。又或许是因为这 儿显然是一个内省和放松之所，酒店里满 翠竹细树和瓦片铺就的老式屋顶，愈发凸 显宁静悠远的氛围，仿佛它们已在这儿伫 立了千年之久。这儿的色调，特别是那些 由灰色的石头、暗红色的木质家具和经典 的白墙装饰的房间，柔和而又自然，极为 清心安神。而且与周边的环境，不论是杭 州西湖还是种植茶叶的梯田或者寺庙，都 相得益彰。甚至连水疗都掩映在木兰、茶 树和翠竹之中，这些天然原料还会在水疗 护理中发挥功效。拂晓时分起床聆听当地 僧侣诵经吟唱之后，您可以在安静的房间 中享受轻柔的热竹按摩，或是在巨大的木 头浴桶中使用当地时令鲜花泡个澡。无论 选择是什么，您一点儿都不会惦念现代生 活。每晚：1090澳元起。 Left: The Tea House is one of five restaurants Below: Luxurious master bedroom at Amanfayun

N AT U R E H O T E L S

桂林香格里拉大酒店

Shangri-La GUILIN You’d be forgiven for thinking Guilin was part of another planet. After all, its vivid-green, bizarreshaped karst landscape looks distinctly unearthly, particularly when it shimmers off serene lakes in sunshine or is cloaked in mist and cloud. The Shangri-La Guilin is dedicated to celebrating this unique place. It’s no accident that huge swathes of the lobby lounge and rooms are lined with large windows, framing the views of the surreal peaks and the gin-clear Li River. Guilin’s streets, and the Shangri-La’s grounds, are perfumed with fragrant sweet osmanthus trees. The distinct, addictive tea they produce will prove (along with crafted cocktails) to be the signature drink of your stay. As you’re only a short hop from the iconic Diecai Shan, replete with ancient stone carvings, caves and a quartet of verdant mountain peaks, days are best spent outdoors – though when dusk’s twinkle descends, nights can be filled taking dinner under the stars at the poolside grill. And finally, once you’ve soaked in all this remarkable place has to offer, retire to the cushy bedrooms – dressed in inky backdrops depicting a Guilin scene, they overlook the immaculate landscaped gardens or the river Li itself.

From $203 per night shangri-la.com/guilin

如果您认为桂林属于另一个星球也无可 厚非，毕竟这儿山清水秀的美景、千奇百怪 的喀斯特地形看起来一点儿都不似凡间。尤 其是当平静的湖面闪烁着点点微光，或者轻 云薄雾将桂林笼罩之时，更是恍如仙境。桂 林香格里拉大酒店的一切都是为了桂林独一 无二的美景而服务。毫无意外，宽敞的大堂 酒廊和房间都装上了巨型玻璃，将神姿仙态 的山峦和清澈见底的漓江的优美景致框入其 中。桂林的街道旁和香格里拉的庭院里桂树 成荫，花香四溢。用桂花制成的桂花茶特色

鲜明，饮之令人欲罢不能， （还有酒店特调的 鸡尾酒）将成为您入住期间的招牌饮品。酒 店距离标志性的叠彩山仅有咫尺之遥。叠彩 山由四座苍翠欲滴的山峰构成，其中有不计 其数的古代摩崖石刻、洞穴，因此户外是白 天的最佳去处。而当黄昏来临，夜幕落下，不 妨去游泳池边的烧烤餐厅享用星空晚宴。享 受完这个奇妙的地方所提供的一切后，回到 设有桂林风景主题的水墨画，还可俯瞰酒店 绿意盎然的园林景致或秀甲天下的漓江山水 舒适的房间休息。每晚：203澳元起。

Top: Sweet osmanthus trees can be found throughout the grounds Right: Large windows – because who’d want to miss these views?

73

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

莫宁顿半岛层出不穷的精彩

M O R N I N G TO N It’s a long way from being a tourist hot spot – and that’s one of the things that makes Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula such a fantastic destination for food and nature lovers, writes Lisa Perkovic

74

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

G

L

O

R

Y

位于维多利亚州的莫宁顿半岛并不是一个游人如织的旅游景点，也因此让其成为 美食与大自然爱好者的天堂，丽莎·佩尔科维奇（Lisa Perkovic）写道

A

n hour in the car and Melbourne’s concrete jungle gives way to the rolling farmland, sprawling wineries and stunning coastline of the Mornington Peninsula. Often overshadowed by the Yarra Valley and Dandenong Ranges as a weekend getaway destination, you’d be forgiven for not having heard of this pocket of land that curves around Port Phillip south-east of Melbourne. But the Mornington Peninsula offers plenty of diversions, be it epicurean or viticultural, that are bringing it to the table for tourists and locals alike. > 从 墨 尔 本 驱 车 前 行 一小 时，便 可 逃 离 钢 筋 水 泥 铸 成 的城 市森 林，抵 达 美丽的莫宁顿半岛（M o r n i n g t o n Peninsula）— —绵延起伏的农田和辽阔葱郁的葡萄园 在眼前徐徐铺展，迷人的海岸线摄人心魂。莫宁顿半岛位 于墨尔本东南，环绕着菲利普港(Port Phillip)，是周末休 闲的好去处。不过您若是从未听说过这片土地，那也是 很正常。莫宁顿半岛虽不及亚拉河谷（Yarra Valley）和 丹顿农区（Dandenong Ranges）那般有名，却仍为您 提供许多选择，既可以畅享美酒美食，欣赏美景，也可以 学习了解葡萄栽培的知识，对外来的游客和当地的居民 都很有吸引力。 >

75

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

“Truffle soup, cheese, butter and even truffle chocolates are part of a tasting designed to educate guests on how to use this expensive ingredient” FORAGE AWAY

Jenny McAuley’s family have owned land in the Mornington Peninsula since the 1800s, when the land was settled and farmed for the very first time by her great-great-grandparents. She spent her childhood exploring the orchards on the 70-acre property but it wasn’t until 2003 on a trip to Tuscany that she was introduced to the truffle. Now, Red Hill Truffles supplies more than 25kg of truffles to local hatted restaurants and some of Melbourne’s top chefs. McAuley planted 350 truffle trees back in 2005 after noticing the abundance of natural fungi on the property. “There are plenty of grapes and olives in this region, so I wanted to do something different,” she says, noting that the Peninsula’s hot summers and cold winter soil are ideal for fungi growth. “The truffles won’t ripen unless the soil gets really cold. We add a lot of lime to the soil to get the right pH, but the soil temperatures are the key.”

In partnership with MP Experience, Jenny and her truffle dog Thomas run hunts on the property, inviting guests to walk the fields with them as Thomas, an English Springer Spaniel, sniffs out the truffles.

Thomas was rescued from the pound and trained in the art of truffle hunting in Tasmania. Guests will get to see him in action, and are invited by Jenny to get down on their hands and knees to smell the truffles in the soil. Salty, musty and even sometimes sweet, the truffles have an array of aromas, even when they’re not ready to be pulled from the ground. Post-hunt, the tour ends in an old hay shed converted into a tasting pavilion. Truffle soup, cheese, butter and even truffle chocolates are part of a tasting designed to educate guests on how to use this expensive ingredient economically. It may retail at $2.50 per gram, but a little goes a long way with Jenny’s tips.

McAuley is just one of the locals providing bespoke gourmet experiences for visitors to the region. Green Olive at Red Hill’s winery and tasting room offer a great opportunity to learn more about the local viticulture, but it’s the cooking classes that set this property apart. Sausage making, preserving, pickling, and even butchery classes are held on Saturdays throughout the > 76

探寻松露 远 在 1 9 世 纪 ，珍 妮·麦 考 利（ J e n n y McAuley）的曾祖父母就在莫宁顿半岛 定居下来，开始垦荒耕种。从那时起，麦 考利家族就拥有了这片70公顷的土地。童 年时代的珍妮常常在果园中探索冒险，但 是直到20 03年才在一次去往意大利托斯 卡尼（Tuscany）的旅途中初识松露。麦 考利家族发现这片土地上生长着大量的天 然真菌，于是在2005年种植了350棵松露 树。 “这个地区种植着大量葡萄和橄榄， 所以我想种些不一样的植物。”现在，Red Hill Truffles向当地厨师帽餐厅和墨尔本几 位顶级主厨供应的松露超过25千克。莫宁 顿半岛夏天炎热，冬天寒冷，土壤非常适 合真菌生长。 “松露只有在土壤变得非常 寒冷的时候才会成熟。我们向土壤里添加 了很多石灰，使pH植达到理想状态，但是 土壤温度才是最关键因素。” 作为与MP Experience的合作项目 之一，珍 妮 和 她 的英国史宾 格犬托马斯 （Thomas）带领游客在林地里穿行，四 处寻找松露。托马斯曾流落在认领处，被 领养后在 塔斯马尼亚接受了搜寻松露训 练。前来旅游的客人可以近距离看托马斯 施展搜寻松露的本领，珍妮还会邀请客人 俯下身去轻嗅 土 壤中松露的味道。那是 一种咸咸的发霉味道，有时甚至还带有一 丝甘甜。地面之下的松露即使尚未成熟， 却已散发出十分丰富的气味。搜寻结束之 后，游客来到一座由古老的干草棚改装成 的品鉴亭，品尝以松露为原料制成的汤、 奶酪、黄油甚至巧克力，了解如何经济地 使用这种名贵食材。虽然松露的零售价高 达2.50澳元/克，但是在珍妮的指导下，一 点点松露便足以派上大用场。 为游 客 提供定制美食体 验的当地 机 构 有 很 多，麦 考 利 家 族 只 是 其 中 之 一。Green Olive at Red Hill在酒庄和品 鉴室里开设课程，是游客学习当地葡萄栽 培知识的绝佳机会，但是真正使其脱颖而 出的是全年每个周六开设的烹饪课程，包 括酱汁制作、保存、腌制甚至屠宰课程。 >

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

What’s cooking: Green Olive at Red Hills is becoming increasingly famous for its cooking classes where you can learn about everything from sausage making to preserving, pickling, butchery and more

77

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

year. The woodfire pizza class begins in the kitchen garden, selecting toppings from the vegetables and herbs growing in Red Hill’s famous fertile red soil.

Much of the farm’s cooking occurs in the property’s woodfire oven, fuelled by the property’s own fallen timber. Pop in for a tapas lunch at the restaurant before stocking up on farm olives and vegetables.

ARTISANS AT WORK

Also in Red Hill, the Bass and Flinders Distillery has been producing artisan spirits in the Peninsula since 2009. Unlike other boutique distilleries, Bass and Flinders produces its own grape spirit as the base for award-winning gins and the country’s first grape-based vodka. The artisan distillery’s gin masterclasses are an afternoon well-spent, with participants blending their own vapour-infused botanicals to create a gin for their own palette. The Bass and Flinders distilleries use local botanicals where possible, and Australian Shiraz grapes for their base spirit, for their small batches, which are produced using an Alembic Pot Still. Gin, vodka, five-year aged Ochre and Limoncello are a few of the local favourites coming out of the distillery. The spirits are also gaining a following from the big city, popping up in Melbourne’s Truffle Festival and gin extravaganza, the Junipalooza, later in the year.

Batch production of boutique spirits by artisan distilleries is on the rise Australia-wide, but the Peninsula is undoubtedly known worldwide for its wine production. The region’s cool climate varietals have traditionally been the focus of more than 170 vineyards, but in recent years Pinot Grigios and even Shiraz have been gaining popularity. At Port Phillip Estate, home to Port Phillip and Kooyong Wines, guests are invited to try a range of different varietals in the state-of-the-art Cellar Door, where the tasting bar takes in the view too. The futuristic building, designed by Wood Marsh Architecture, is a local icon and sprawls out along a ridge looking out to Western Port Bay. It’s also home to the Estate’s award-winning Dining Room, where the European training of chef Stuart Deller shines. Tasting courses are paired with the estate’s wines, along with a small selection of world vintages. The floor-to-ceiling windows look out at the Bass Strait in a design that makes the most of the location and is best enjoyed over a long lunch.

TIME TO FEAST

There are more than 50 cellar doors open to the public on the Mornington Peninsula, and many – like Port Phillip Estate – are also home to high-end restaurants.

Fresh seasonal produce is given the chance to shine under the light of culinary techniques from around the world at Montalto Vineyard and Olive Grove. Awarded its 12th hat in The Age Good Food Awards last year, the restaurant is one of the region’s most prominent examples of fine dining fused with local ingredients – many sourced straight from the two acres of produce gardens on site. Try delicate entrees of sautéed pine > 78

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

炭火披萨课程在厨房花园里进行，精选著 名的红丘陵（Red Hill）肥沃红土上生长的 蔬菜植物，制成多种披萨配料。农场里很 多烹饪都使用炭火炉完成，燃料则是自己 砍伐的木材。不妨在餐厅里享受一顿西班 牙风味美食，然后置办一些农场自产的橄 榄和蔬菜。

Clockwise from top: Pinot Grigio and Shiraz have been gaining popularity at Port Phillip Estate; the tasting bar at Port Phillip is a must; Bass and Flinders uses its ingredients to create worldclass gin; a gin masterclass at Bass and Flinders; an Alembic Pot Still at Bass and Flinders

手工酿制 同样位于红丘陵的Bass and Flinders Distillery酒庄始于2009年，始终坚持手工 酿制烈酒。不同于其他精品酒庄，Bass and Flinders Distillery以自酿葡萄烈酒作为基 酒，制成了屡获殊荣的杜松子酒和澳大利 亚首款葡萄伏特加。杜松子酒大师讲堂定 会让您的下午时光收获颇丰，参加者可以随 意混合香气浓郁的植物精粹，按照自己口 味制作独特杜松子酒。Bass and Flinders Distillery酒庄尽可能选用当地植物和澳大 利亚西拉葡萄，使用Alembic罐式蒸馏器 小批量蒸馏酿制基酒。杜松子酒、伏特加、 五年陈酿烈酒Ochre和柠檬甜酒在当地广 受欢迎。这家酒庄的烈酒在墨尔本松露节 和杜松子酒盛事——Junipalooza惊艳亮 相之后，在墨尔本也广受追捧。 酒庄手工批量酿制精品烈酒的热潮正 在 澳 大利亚全国兴 起，但 是毫无疑问， 莫宁顿半岛享誉 全 球的还是葡萄酒。凉 爽气候葡 萄是170 余个 葡 萄园 的主 要 种 植品种，但是近年来灰皮诺、甚至西拉的 种 植 愈 加广泛。在 酿制菲 利普 港（Po r t Phillip）和库扬（Kooyong）葡萄酒的菲 利普港酒庄（Port Phillip Estate），游客 们可在顶级酒窖品尝不同品种的葡萄酒， 也可以到品鉴酒吧畅享美酒。这 座 未 来 主义建筑风格的酒庄出自Wood Marsh Architecture建筑公司之手，依山而建， 可以眺望西港海湾（Westernport Bay） ，是当地的标志性建筑。酒庄里还有备受 赞誉的餐厅，主厨斯图尔特·德尔（Stuart Deller）的欧式餐品在这里大放光彩。赏 味菜品搭配的是酒庄自产葡萄酒和少数世 界级优质葡萄酒。建筑的设计充分利用优 越的地理位置，透过巨大的落地窗户，可 以欣赏巴斯海峡（Bass Strait）美景，在这 里悠然享用午餐是最好不过的了。 味蕾盛宴 莫宁顿半岛上有50多个对外开放的酒窖， 很多像菲 利普港 酒 庄一样 拥有高级餐 厅。在Montalto Vineyard and Olive Grove，新鲜的应季食材在来自世界各地 的高超烹调技术下得以绽放耀眼光辉。餐 厅采用当地配料，许多直接采摘自2英亩的 种植园，在去年荣获了《时代美食指南》大 奖（The Age Good Food Awards）颁发 的第12顶厨师帽，成为区域内最显著的高 级餐厅之一。来到这里，一定要尝试一下精 致主菜油煎松蕈搭配鸡蛋干酪汤，或者腌 > 79

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

mushrooms with stracciatella or marinated kingfish with cultured cream and chilli before moving on to bold dishes like aged duck breast, beetroot and shiso or a roast lamb rump with chocolate morcilla. Dessert might include freshly whipped passionfruit and fennel curd with Daintree chocolate. The property’s new tasting room and sculptures offer plenty of ways to while away the rest of the afternoon.

Ten Minutes by Tractor, Stillwater at Crittenden and La Petanque are just a few of the many other fine-dining venues worth mentioning. The more casual DOC Pizza and Mozzarella Bar on Mornington’s Main Street is a great option for fast, fresh Italian fare. The DOC brand took Melbourne by storm with its traditional thin-crust pizza, and the same can be said in Mornington. The deli’s salami and cheese range is excellent for stocking up on winetasting nibbles. The Rocks is another local institution, perched right on Mornington’s waterfront. Tables out on the covered balcony of The Deck are the best seats in the house for fresh seafood and sunset drinks.

For pre-planned food and wine itineraries, the Food Wine Farmgate Trails are a fantastic resource, offering short, long and multi-day itineraries of the best local producers in the region. The Spirit and Cider Trail will take you via Bass and Flinders to Mock Red Hill, where apple cider is produced from a biodynamic orchard. The Cider Lounge tasting room occupies an old wooden cool store dating back to 1945.

The Great Indulgence Trail peruses Peninsula Fresh Seafood’s mussel farm (the oldest in Victoria), Main

80

Ridge Dairy’s tasting rooms and the decadent display cabinets at Mornington Peninsula Chocolates.

EAT

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

GREEN OLIVE AT RED HILL

The Mornington Peninsula is certainly not an example of untouched Australian wilderness. On the contrary, it’s home to some of the country’s best examples of landscaped gardens and mazes. Ashcombe Maze in Shoreham is the oldest in Australia; its three-metre-high hedges are tall enough to accommodate adults along with the little ones. Planted within 25 acres of woodland gardens, the maze’s 1,000 cypress trees line a network of paths that twist and turn more than a thousand metres. The garden’s circular rose maze is the first of its kind and contains 1,200 different rose plants. At the Enchanted Adventure Gardens in Arthurs Seat, three mazes are just a small part of an outdoor activity park – there are also tube slides, bush obstacle courses and a treetop canopy walk. Boneo Maze has a handy viewing platform at its centre, where you can map your path out of the maze once you’ve managed to find your way in.

The garden’s mini-golf course is popular with families.

If you’d rather stick to rolling greens and fairways, Moonah Links Golf Course is one of 20 different courses in the region and was designed specifically for the national championship, the Australian Open, which was held there in 2003. The 18 holes >

1180 MorningtonFlinders Rd, Main Ridge greenolive.com.au

MONTALTO VINEYARD & OLIVE GROVE 33 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill South montalto.com.au

DOC PIZZA & MOZZARELLA BAR DELICATESSEN 22 Main St, Mornington docgroup.net

Above: DOC’s thin-crust pizza has been a huge hit in the Mornington Right: Moonah Links Golf Course is one of Australia’s best

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

“辽阔葱郁的葡萄园在眼前 徐徐铺展，迷人的海岸线 摄人心魂” 制大王鱼搭配酸奶油和辣椒，然后再品尝 老鸭胸、甜菜根、紫苏叶或烤羔羊尾，搭配 巧克力黑香肠。甜点可能有新鲜搅拌的百 香果，以及茴香凝乳搭配丹翠巧克力。何 不在新建的品鉴室中闲逛，细细观赏各种 雕塑，自在消磨余下的午后时光。 在 众 多 高 级 餐 厅 中，值 得 一 去 的 有 Ten Minutes by Tractor, Stillwater at Crittenden和La Petanque。位于莫宁 顿主街的DOC Pizza and Mozzarella Bar较为休闲随意，是享受快速、新鲜意 大利美食的好去处。DOC品牌的传统薄 底披萨令整个墨尔本为之疯狂，在莫宁顿 也是如此。若要置办搭配葡萄酒的小食， 到熟食店买一些意大利香肠和各类奶酪是 不错的选择。The Rocks是另一家当地餐 厅，正坐落于莫宁顿的海边，美丽海景在 眼前尽情铺展。若来到The Deck，一定要 坐在遮光阳台处的餐位，那里是享受新鲜 海鲜和日落小酌的最佳位置。

想 要预 先 规 划美食美酒行 程，F o o d Wine Farmgate Trails是个极好的选 择，短线、长线和多日行程均可，带您探 寻享受当地最好的饮食和服务。而Spirit and Cider Trail可以带您坐上Bass and Flinders的游览船，来到Mock Red Hill 品尝生物动力果园生产的美味苹果酒。 苹果酒品鉴室（Cider Lounge）曾经是 一个木质冷藏库，悠久的历史可以追溯到 1945年。Great Indulgence Trail带您 深入探索维多利亚州最古老的Peninsula Fresh Seafood贻贝养殖场、Main Ridge Dairy的品鉴室和Mornington Peninsula Chocolates的古老陈列室。 户外美景 莫宁顿半岛并不是荒无人烟的澳大利亚旷 野。这片土地上有着澳大利亚最好的风景 花园和迷宫。位于肖勒姆（Shoreham） 的迷宫花园（Ashcombe Maze）在澳 大利亚拥有最为悠久的历史，精心修剪的 树篱高达3米，成年人和儿童可在其中尽 情探索。迷宫位于25英亩的林 地园区之 中，1,000棵柏树排列成曲折回转的树墙， 总长度超过1,0 0 0米。园区里的环形玫瑰 迷宫是创造性的存在，由1,20 0株不同品 种的玫瑰组成。在亚瑟王宝座（Arthurs S e a t），魔 法 探 险花 园（E n c h a n t e d Adventure Gardens）中的3个迷宫只 是众多户外活动的选择之一，何不尝试一 下管道滑梯、树丛障碍 赛跑 和树顶吊桥 呢。Boneo Maze and Mini Golf在迷宫 中心设有观景台，成功进入迷宫后可以在 观景台上规划出去的路线，非常方便。若 是与家人一起旅游至此，不妨来到花园里 >

81

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

EXPERIENCE RED HILL TRUFFLES redhilltruffles.com

BASS AND FLINDERS DISTILLERY 232 Red Hill Rd, Red Hill bassandflindersdistillery.com

MOCK RED HILL 1103 Mornington Flinders Road, Red Hill mo.mockredhill.com.au

ASHCOMBE MAZE & LAVENDER GARDENS 15 Shoreham Rd, Shoreham ashcombemaze.com.au

ENCHANTED ADVENTURE GARDEN 55 Purves Road, Arthurs Seat enchantedmaze.com.au

BONEO MAZE & MINI GOLF 695 Limestone Rd, Fingal

were designed by five-time British Open champion Peter Thomson and still constitute one of the more challenging and longest courses in the country.

After a long day of foraging, cooking, distilling and golfing, the Mornington Peninsula’s biggest drawcard awaits. A sprawling complex of natural hot springs, saunas, massage rooms and plunge pools, the Peninsula Hot Springs makes the most of the Peninsula’s natural assets. Founders Charles and Richard Davidson unlocked the 54°C geothermal water back in 1997 after drilling 637 metres below ground. Today, the park’s Bath House is a must visit when in the area. Home to a traditional Turkish hammam, reflexology walk, thermal mineral showers and plenty of communal bathing pools, it’s a maze of indoor and open-air pools tucked into the bush. The Spa Dreaming Centre is a more sedate space for those aged over 16, with a focus on relaxation. The bamboo showers and private pools are the perfect way to wind down after you’re done soaking up the Mornington – in all its glory.

的迷你高尔夫球场共度愉快的家庭时光。 如果 您更 愿意在高尔夫球 场 绿草如 茵 的 球 道 上 漫 步，莫 宁 顿 半 岛 上有 2 0 个不同球场可供选择，Moonah Links Golf Course便是其中之一。该球场是 为20 03年澳大利亚高尔夫公开赛特别设 计的，共有18洞，设计者为五届英国高尔 夫公开赛冠军得主彼得·汤姆森（Peter Thomson），至今仍是澳 大利亚难度最 高、长度最长的球场之一。 欣喜若狂 在 搜 寻 松 露、烹饪 美食、蒸 馏 美 酒 和 体 验高尔夫中度 过了多彩而忙碌 的一天， 莫宁顿半岛早已为您准备好一个难忘的 夜晚。来到半岛温泉（Peninsula Hot Sp r i ng s），在错落有致的天然温 泉、桑 拿中心、按摩中心和跌水潭中褪去疲惫， 放松身心，尽情享受莫宁顿半岛丰富的自 然资源。1977年，创始人查尔斯·戴维森 （Charles Davidson）和理查兹·戴维森 （Richards Davidson）兄弟向地下挖掘 至637米，54摄氏度的温泉水终于喷涌而 出。如今，这里的沐浴堂（Bath House） 已经成为前往当地旅游的必访胜地。土耳 其蒸气浴室、按摩步道、矿物热浴和大量 公共浴池交错其间，大小不一的室内泳池 和错落林间的室外泳池仿若迷宫一般。若 您年满16岁而且追求正念，渴望放松，温 泉梦幻中心（Spa Dreaming Centre）则 是不二之选，而竹浴和私人泳池是回归平 静心性的最佳方式。

boneomazeandminigolf. com.au

MOONAH LINKS GOLF COURSE Peter Thompson Drive, Fingal moonahlinks.com.au

PENINSULA HOT SPRINGS 140 Springs Ln, Fingal

DETAILS THE TEMPLE HOUSE From $330 per night thetemplehousehotel.com

peninsulahotsprings.com

THE ST. REGIS CHENGDU

LINDENDERRY AT RED HILL

starwoodhotels.com/ stregis

142 Arthurs Seat Rd, Red Hill lancemore.com.au/ lindenderry

From $254 per night

W CHENGDU Price TBC starwoodhotels.com/ whotels

SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, CHENGDU From $220 per night shangri-la.com/chengdu

Guests enjoy the Peninsula Hot Springs bathing gully at twilight

82

MORNINGTON PENINSUL A

WHERE TO STAY LINDENDERRY AT RED HILL

A country estate that combines style and history, the Lindenderry is a local institution. The award-winning property has 40 rooms, with manicured gardens and a James Halliday-rated winery on site. Take a turn around the gardens before settling in front of your fireplace with a bottle of local red.

PORT PHILLIP ESTATE

Tucked into the impressive architecturally designed main building, these six luxury suites are a study in modern minimalism. Look out over the property through floor-to-ceiling windows or sit out on the private terrace with a bottle of the estate’s wine as the sun sets.

PEPPERS MOONAH LINKS

Golfers should make a beeline for these convenient rooms and suites, which are tucked into the championship golf course resort. The Moonah Day Spa, also on-site, is an added boon, along with the outdoor heated swimming pool – both ideal after a long day on the greens.

Left: Peppers Moonah Links Below: Lindenderry at Red Hill

休憩之所 Lindenderry at Red Hill 当地备受赞誉的Lindenderry at Red Hill 乡村庄园将时尚与历史完美融合，拥有40 个房间和修剪整齐的花园，这里的酒庄也 颇受澳 大利亚著名葡萄酒作家詹姆斯· 哈利德（James Halliday）赞赏。不妨到 花园中稍作漫步，然后取一瓶当地红酒相 伴，在壁炉前度过一段美好的时光。 菲利普港酒庄 菲利普港酒庄的建筑风格令人印象深刻， 而其中的6个奢华套房则是现代简约风格 的典范之作。黄昏日落之时，您可静立落 地窗前展望风景，或小坐于私人阳台品酌 酒庄自产的美酒。 Peppers Moonah Links Peppers Moonah Links坐落在高尔夫冠 军赛球场度假区，出行十分方便，令高尔 夫爱好者对这里的房间和套房趋之若鹜。 穆纳日间温泉（Moonah Day Spa）和室 外恒温泳池更为其增添一份吸引力。在球 场上挥洒汗水过后，不妨来此休憩一番。 83

SHANGHAI

建筑艺术

OF BU I LDI NG

上海是东方之都甚或是全球装饰艺术风格建筑 的首都。阿德里安·莫尔比（Adrian Mourby） 为我们揭秘上海是如何成为建筑界的标志城市 It’s the Art Deco capital of the East and, arguably, the world. Adrian Mourby reveals how Shanghai came to be an architectural icon 86

SHANGHAI

A

nyone who has seen the opening sequence of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom knows the unusually glamorous world in which Mr Jones finds himself at the beginning of that film. This is Shanghai in its racy, white-dinner-jacketed, Art Deco heyday, when entrepreneurs like Sir Victor Sassoon commissioned some of the most beautiful buildings of the 1930s, and architects like László Hudec built them.

Art Deco was a refined geometric style that emerged in Europe and particularly in America. It took the sinuous, organic lines of Art Nouveau – which had been the new architecture of the previous century – and introduced to it the Machine Age aesthetic of simplicity and clarity. Everything – from buildings to portraits – had the clean lines of a graceful machine.

Constructing in this style didn’t allow for mass production, and as such was expensive. Art Deco quickly became the style of the wealthy and those with radically modernist tastes. When the northern English seaside village of Morecambe built an Art Deco railway hotel in 1932, Coco Chanel flew over to stay. Other guests included Laurence Olivier, Noel Coward and Wallis Simpson. This was the architecture of the elite.

SHANGHAI CALLING

It’s maybe not be surprising then that Shanghai, which became one of the wealthiest trading cities in the world under the Chinese Republic of the 1920s and 30s, turned to Art Deco to celebrate its riches. And it’s our great fortune today that so many of these hotels, apartment blocks and offices still stand.

Initially, existing buildings were modified in response to the new aesthetic. The Shanghai Club on the Bund, where deals were done in an atmosphere of burnished wood and clubland leather, had a cagelift in its lobby that dated from 1910, but its Long Bar – a 110-foot-long symbol of the cocktail culture of 1930s Shanghai – was an Art Deco addition. Built of mahogany and marble-topped, Noel Coward quipped you could see the curvature of the earth if you looked along its prodigious length. Today the Shanghai Club is the home of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, and the Long Bar has been rebuilt in its rightful place.

The leather-bound drinks menu is gorgeous. One page is devoted to classic cocktails served at the old Waldorf Astoria in New York, from the Waldorf (rye whiskey, absinthe, sweet vermouth and bitters) to the Zaza (gin, Dubonnet and Angostura bitters), both of which give the classics at El Coctel – a world-famous Shanghai cocktail bar – a run for their money. The other key feature from the old Long Bar is the oyster bar, and here you can get baked Fitzpatrick and Rockefeller oysters or a range of more than five fresh-shucked >

Fairmont Peace Hotel

如 果 曾 看 过《 夺 宝 奇 兵 2 ：魔 域 奇 兵 》 （Indiana Jones & the Temple of Doom） 的开场，您就会理解印第安纳·琼斯在电影 开篇身处的到底是怎样辉煌灿烂的一个世 界——这就是装饰艺术风格鼎盛时期原汁 原味、遵循古典西式礼仪的上海。那些建筑 可谓是20世纪30年代最美的，由维克多·沙 逊爵士（Sir Victor Sassoon）这样的实业家 出资兴建，拉斯洛·邬达克（LászlóHudec） 等建筑师具体设计建造的。 装饰艺术风格是一种精妙的几何艺术 风格，起 源于欧 洲，在美国尤为盛 行。其 沿用了19世纪的新建筑风格——新艺术派 （Art Nouveau）的曲线和有机形态，同 时引入了机器时代（Machine Age）崇尚 简单清晰的审美观。从建筑到人物肖像，一 切都被赋以外形美观的机器所具有的简洁 线条。这种风格注定不能够实现量产，因而

造价十分高昂。装饰艺术风格迅速成为富 裕阶级和具有激进现代主义品味人士的新 宠。1932年，英格兰北部的海边小镇莫克姆 （Morecambe）建造了一座装饰艺术风格 的铁路酒店。为下榻酒店，香奈儿创始人可 可·香奈儿女士（Coco Chanel）不惜飞越 英吉利海峡。入住这间酒店的其他名流包括 劳伦斯·奥利弗（Laurence Olivier）、诺埃 尔·科沃德（Noel Coward）和沃利斯·辛 普森（Wallis Simpson）。由此可见，这是一 种让当时的精英人物为之倾倒的建筑风格。 20世纪20－30年代，中华民国治下的上 海成为世界最富裕的贸易城市之一，装饰艺 术风格在上海大行其道以彰显其繁荣兴盛 也就不足为奇了。如今，仍有许多装饰艺术 风格的酒店、公寓楼和办公楼伫立于此，成 为今人的宝贵财富。 上海先是对原有的建筑加以改造，使之 > 87

SHANGHAI

oysters at market prices. They’ve also got great posh comfort food like the foie gras parfait with fig, brioche and sangria jelly and mini chicken tortillas with cumin peppers and guacamole. You’re paying a lot here, but the tiniest details feel spot-on, from the immaculate service to the jazz on the stereo.

Another hotel, The Palace, had been built in European colonial style on the Bund in 1908, but it received an Art Deco makeover in the 1930s. It’s now a mixed use hotel/retail/art space development called the Swatch Art Peace Hotel. Shanghai’s French Club, the Cercle Sportif Francais, also predated Art Deco, having been built in 1925, but it too adopted the clean, bright lines of the new style when it was refurbished in the 30s.

Today, as the Okura Garden Hotel, its bar and dining room retain the geometric precision of Art Deco.

THE SASSOON INFLUENCE

The businessman Sir Victor Sassoon established Art Deco as the defining style of Shanghai when he unveiled his Cathay Hotel (now known as the Peace Hotel) in 1929. Sassoon was a visionary and gambler who took huge risks that mostly paid off. After the success of the Cathay Hotel he built Cathay Mansions, a skyscraper block of apartments on a piece of land that was thought too swampy to hold up a 13-storey mansion.

Cathay Mansions did not collapse, however, and soon one its celebrated residents, the nephew of Wellington Koo, President of the Chinese Republic between 1926 and 1927. The Canadian journalist Dora Carney,

in her Shanghai memoir Foreign Devils had Light Eyes (1980), wrote of calmly taking tea in Cathay Mansions. This was a world that considered itself sophisticated verging on decadent, and Art Deco provided the perfect backdrop.

Emboldened by the success of this project, Sassoon followed up with an 18-storey apartment block nearby, which he called Grosvenor House (1935). With its series of stepped terraces, dramatic lighting and parquet floors, Grosvenor House looked as if it belonged in Manhattan. Both buildings are now part of Shanghai’s Jinjiang Hotel.

At one point in the 1930s the ebullient Victor Sassoon owned 1,800 properties in Shanghai. It’s no wonder he was able to influence the city towards his beloved Art Deco through buildings like the Cathay Cinema, its central tower like a mini Empire State Building; the concave Metropole Hotel (also 1934); and the Embankment Building in Hongkou district, a quarter-of-a-mile-long round-edged apartment block with its own swimming pool.

But of all of Sassoon’s buildings – most of them designed by the architects Palmer and Turner – the Cathay Hotel, with its green, pyramidical roof, best sums up Shanghai Art Deco. Renamed the Peace Hotel in 1956 and reopened by Fairmont in 2010, the hotel has a beautiful restrained Art Deco dining room on the ninth floor overlooking the Huangpu river. Its ballroom (now known as the Peace Hall), where Sassoon threw lavish, Gatsby-esque parties, still had its priceless Lalique Corridor of glasswork by the exclusive Paris company. In the hotel’s museum you can find one of Sassoon’s most remarkable innovations, a little metal phonograph disc about the size of a CD, on which visitors could record a message in the lobby, which would be then left in the guest’s room to be played later, a very early form of answering machine. >

Clockwise from above: The Swatch Art Peace Hotel; Art Deco interiors at the Fairmont Peace Hotel’s east entrance; Art Deco style along the Bund; Palmer and Turner introduced Art Deco elements to the Customs House clock tower

> 88

SHANGHAI

符合新的审美标准。地处外滩的上海总会 （Shanghai Club）是商人们的社交之所， 一笔又一笔大交易在此达成。上海总会里到 处是泛着亮光的实木家具和精致的皮革，大 厅里还有一部可追溯至1910年的笼式电梯。 不过，长达110英尺（34米）的廊吧（Long Bar）却是后来跟随装饰艺术风格的步伐而 增建的，后成为20世纪30年代上海鸡尾酒 文化的标志。廊吧采用桃花心木建造，台面 为大理石面，诺埃尔·科沃德打趣说顺着长 长的廊吧望去，您甚至可以看到地面的弯 曲。过去的上海总会如今成了上海外滩华尔 道夫饭店（Waldorf Astoria Hotel），廊吧 也经过精心修复，重现昔日风采。 廊吧那皮质酒单上的酒品种类多得令人 惊叹。其中一页专门展示了纽约华尔道夫酒 店（Waldorf Astoria in New York）供应 的经典鸡尾酒，包括从华尔道夫（黑麦威士 忌、苦艾酒、甜苦艾酒和苦酒）到莎莎（杜 松子酒、杜本内酒和安格斯特拉苦酒）的一 系列美酒，并且这两款酒不亚于el Coctel 的经典酒品。古老的廊吧另外一个重要特 色是生蚝品席，在这儿，您可以品尝到菲茨 帕特里克和洛克菲勒风味焗生蚝，或者以 市场价享受五只以上不同品种的新鲜生蚝。 同时，廊吧还提供令人馋涎欲滴的奢华爽 心美食，比如鹅肝酱甜点配无花果、奶油蛋 卷和桑格利亚果冻以及迷你墨西哥鸡肉玉 米饼配茴香、胡椒和鳄梨色拉酱。这里价格 不菲，但廊吧对微小细节的关注，从无微不 至的服务到立体声音响播放的爵士音乐，都 让人觉得一切恰到好处。 外滩 上的另一座酒店汇中饭店（ T h e Palace）是一座竣工于1908年的欧式殖民 风格建筑，不过它在20世纪30年代经历了 装饰艺术风格改造。如今，它成了集酒店、 零售和艺术空间为一体的斯沃琪和平饭 店艺术中心（Swatch Art Peace Hotel） 。上海的法国总会，也就是法商球场总会 （Cercle Sportif Francais）建于1925年， 也早于装饰艺术风格，不过在2 0世纪3>0

ART DECO AROUND THE WORLD Art Deco was a term first coined in 1925 by Le Corbusier when writing about an exhibition of Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Moderne. As a style it influenced artists, architects and industrial designers. The Polish painter Tamara de Lempicka reduced her portraits of people to geometric elements; William Van Alen’s Chrysler Building in New York had a machine-like roofline; while, conversely, the French ocean liner SS Normandie was built with a priceless Lalique glass ceiling. Art Deco had a big influence on the design of ships, aircraft, railway engines and motor cars, and their steamlined shapes in due course influenced the branch of 1930s architecture known as Streamline Moderne, which is why so many large Art Deco buildings resemble ocean liners.

89

SHANGHAI

It was in this elegant hotel that Noel Coward wrote Private Lives in 1930, where Charlie Chaplin dined at the hotel’s Dragon Phoenix Restaurant, and Sir Victor had his own Art Deco penthouse, which is now the presidential suite.

Palmer and Turner also designed Cavendish Court and Hamilton Buildings (both 1933) for Sir Victor, as well as Broadway Mansions (1934) in Hongkou District and Capetown Apartments (1940) in the French Concession.

DEFINING A CITY

While Palmer and Turner were kept busy bringing Sassoon’s stylised vision of Shanghai into existence, the city had its own Chinese architects like Jun Zhuang, Liu Jipiao, Dong Dayou and Poy Gum Lee who were creating what became known as Chinese Deco, a fusion of Art Deco with more traditional motifs like sweeping eaves, and some more Chinese practices.

They – unlike Palmer and Turner – would never have violated the principles of feng shui by placing a doorway onto water, as Sir Victor did at the Peace Hotel. Of these architects Luke Him Sau probably had the most impact with his towering Bank of China (1936) immediately next door to the Peace Hotel.

But perhaps the most distinct architect of Shanghai’s Art Deco period was the Hungarian architect László Hudec, who worked in Shanghai from 1918-1947 and who created over 60 buildings before leaving for Europe. His works included a 90

number of Art Deco theatres and banks and the Park Hotel (1934), which until 1983 remained the tallest building in Shanghai. Clearly influenced by the Gothic Art Deco Radiator Building in Manhattan, it looks like it could be a neighbour of 55 Central Park West, the setting of the original Ghostbusters.

Hudec also designed the Joint Savings and Loan Building, the twin Baptist Publications and Christian Literature Society buildings (later renamed the True Light Buildings), which are now part of the Rockbund Art Museum, refashioned for the 21st century by David Chipperfield.

Hudec’s Grand Cinema in the Huangpu District was frequented by Shanghai’s glitterati in the 1930s. It was completed in 1933 and offered not just beautiful Art Deco uplighting, but also a translation system for each seat so that Chineses audiences could enjoy the foreign-language films through individual earpieces.

The 1920s and 1930s were Shanghai’s most glamorous and innovative era and we are fortunate today that there are over 120 buildings listed on the Shanghai Art Deco Database as having survived the years. These stylish buildings are mainly found in the French Concession, the International Settlement, the Bund and Nanjing Road. Nowhere else in the world – not even in New York – is there such a dense concentration of Art Deco. They make Shanghai unique and recall an era when, as the song said, “Anything Goes”.

Clockwise from top: The Waldorf Astoria’s luxurious Long Bar; the Fairmont Peace Hotel is recognisable by its green pyramidical roof; interiors at the Fairmont Peace Hotel

SHANGHAI

年代重装时也采用了新风格那干净明亮 的线条。如今，这里成了花园饭店（Okura Garden Hotel），但酒吧和餐厅仍然保留 着装饰艺术风格的几何精度。 1929年，实业家维克多·沙逊爵士的华 懋饭店（Cathay Hotel，当时还不叫和平 饭店）开业，从而确立了装饰艺术风格在 上海的主流地位。沙逊爵士既是一名梦想 家，也是一个赌徒，他敢于冒极大的风险， 不过大部分都得到了回报。华懋饭店名噪 上海滩之后，沙逊爵士又建造了华懋公寓 （Cathay Mansions），一座建在沼泽地 上的摩天公寓大厦。当时人们认为沼泽地 不足以支撑这座13层高的大厦，不过华懋 公寓却一直屹立至今，安然无恙。加拿大记 者多拉·卡尼（Dora Carney）在其上海回 忆录《蓝眼睛的洋鬼子》 （Foreign Devils had Light Eyes） （1980）中描写了自己在 华懋公寓与未来丈夫（一名上海警察）的情 妇一起从容喝茶的经历。这是一个复杂世 故的世界，而装饰艺术风格正是它的完美 背景。 华懋公寓取得了巨大成功，受此鼓舞， 沙逊爵士接着在附近建造了一座18层高的 公寓楼并命名为格林文纳公寓（Grosvenor House） （1935）。格林文纳公寓的台阶式 露台、耀眼的照明和拼花地板，让人感觉仿 佛身处曼哈顿一般。如今，华懋公寓和格林 文纳公寓都成为了上海锦江饭店的一部分。 20世纪30年代，风头正劲的维克多·沙 逊爵士一度在上海拥有多达1,800处房产。 他旗下的其他著名建筑包括如迷你版帝国 大厦（Empire State Building）一般的国 泰大戏院、凹塔形的新城饭店（Metropole Hotel） （同样建于1934）以及位于虹口区的 河滨大楼（Embankment Building）—— 一座长1/4英里、带独立游泳池的公寓楼。 这些建筑均采用了深受沙逊爵士青睐的装

SHANGHAI

BY NUMBERS

饰艺术风格，他能够藉此影响整个上海的 建筑风格趋势也就不足为奇了。 沙逊爵士拥有的大部分建筑都是由建筑 公司公和洋行（Palmer and Turner）设计 的，其中华懋饭店绿色金字塔形的屋顶是 上海装饰艺术风格的最佳典范。1956年，华 懋饭店更名为和平饭店。2010年，和平饭店 经费尔蒙酒店（Fairmont）重新整修后再 次开业。饭店9楼有一家具有内敛装饰艺术 风格的餐厅，可将黄浦江的美景尽收眼底。 饭店的舞厅曾是沙逊爵士一掷千金、举办 盖茨比式聚会的地方，至今还保留着拉利 克艺术玻璃走廊。该走廊由巴黎拉利克公司 （Lalique）建造，如今已是无价之宝。 在饭店的博物馆中，您可以看到沙逊爵 士最令人惊叹的发明之一，一块CD大小的 小型留声机金属唱片。客人们可以在大厅 里录下一段声音，然后唱片会被放入客人 的房间以供播放，显然是答录机的一种早 期形式。1930年，诺埃尔·科沃德（Noel Coward）正是在这座雅致的饭店中创作 了《私人生活》 （Private Lives）。此外，查 理·卓别林（Charlie Chaplin）还曾在饭店 龙凤厅（Dragon Phoenix Restaurant）用 餐，而沙逊爵士也曾在装饰艺术风格的顶 层公寓居住过，如今成了总统套房。 公和洋行还为沙逊爵士设计了凯文公 寓（Cavendish Court）和汉弥尔登大楼 （Hamilton Buildings） （两座建筑均于 1933年建成），以及虹口区的百老汇大厦 （Broadway Mansions） （1934）和法租 界（French Concession）的开普敦公寓 （Capetown Apartments） （1940）。 在公和洋行忙于帮助沙逊爵士实现其对 上海的时尚愿景之时，上海的许多中国建筑 >

1972 33 1925 2008 1,080 The year President Nixon stayed at Jinjiang Hotel

Art Deco cinemas in Shanghai during the 1930s featuring Hollywood films

The year Hudec opened his architecture firm in Shanghai

Celebrated as the ‘Year of Hudec’ with special events held throughout the city

Seats found in Sassoon’s Cathay Cinema in 1932

91

SHANGHAI

师，比如庄俊、刘既漂、董大酉、李锦沛等， 也在创造另一种艺术风格——中国装饰艺 术风格（Chinese Deco）。这种风格将装 饰艺术风格与中国传统建筑元素（比如宽 大的房檐）以及一些更具中国特色的实践 相结合。与公和洋行不同，他们的设计严格 遵循风水学原理，因而绝不会像沙逊爵士 的和平饭店那样将门道建于水上。在这些 建筑师当中，陆谦受可能是影响最大的一 个，紧邻和平饭店建造了参天耸立的中国银 行大厦（1936）。 不过，上海装饰艺术风格时期最具特色的 建筑师或许要数匈牙利建筑师拉斯洛·邬达 克（László Hudec）了。邬达克于1918－1947 年间在上海工作，在返回欧洲前设计了60多 座建筑。他的作品包括一些装饰艺术风格的 剧院、银行以及上海国际饭店（Park Hotel） （1934）。上海国际饭店在1983年之前一直 是上海第一高楼，其设计显然受到了曼哈顿 哥特式装饰艺术风格的暖炉大楼（Radiator Building）的影响，看起来非常适合与中央公 园西55号（55 Central Park West），也就是 原版《捉鬼敢死队》（Ghostbusters）的拍摄 地比邻而居。 邬达克还设计了四行储蓄会大楼（Joint

92

Savings and Loan Building）以及双 子楼浸信会大楼和广学会大楼（Baptist Publications and Christian Literature Society，其后改名为真光大楼）。双子楼 现已成为上海外滩美术馆（Rockbund Art Museum）的一部分，后者经大卫·奇普菲 尔德（David Chipperfield）重新设计， 以迎合21世纪的品味和需要。邬达克设计 的大光明电影院（Grand Cinema）地处 黄埔区，是20世纪30年代上海名流大腕们 经常光临惠顾之地。大光明电影院于1933 年竣工，不仅装有美轮美奂的向上照明装 置，还在每个座位上安装了翻译系统，这样 中国观众就能戴上独立的头戴式耳机欣赏 外文影片。 20世纪20－30年代是上海最辉煌、最具 创造力的时代。幸运的是，有120多座建筑 得以保存至今，名列上海装饰艺术风格建筑 数据库（Shanghai Art Deco Database） 中。这些时尚的建筑主要位于法租界、上海 公共租界（International Settlement）、外 滩和南京路。如此密集的装饰艺术风格建筑 世所罕见，甚至连纽约也难以望其项背。是 它们使得上海独一无二，让人回想起那个如 歌曲中所说的“一切皆有可能”的年代。

DETAILS WALDORF ASTORIA SHANGHAI ON THE BUND From $424 per room waldorfastoriashanghai.com

SWATCH ART PEACE HOTEL From $504 per room swatch-art-peace-hotel.com

OKURA GARDEN HOTEL From $209 per room gardenhotelshanghai.com

FAIRMONT PEACE HOTEL From $425 per room fairmont.com

ECO LO D G E S

L AND OF PLENT Y

94

ECO LO D G E S

洞天福地

清澈的海水、纯白的沙子，这些自然美景不啻为一 种奢华享受。乔治亚•理查德(Georgia Rickard) 为您介绍澳大利亚九个最为奢华的生态旅馆 Water as clear as diamonds, beaches with the world’s whitest sand: there’s a definite luxury in natural pleasures. Georgia Rickard lists nine of her favourite luxury eco-stays in Australia...

THE ULTIMATE GLAMPING EXPERIENCE SAL SALIS, NINGALOO, WA Head towards the edge of Australia’s vast ochre continent, where outback sand kisses the aqua ocean, and you’ll find a tiny, perfectly elegant safari lodge hidden in the dunes. Sal Salis, located on Western Australia’s Coral Coast, is a collection of 16 wonderfully appointed semi-permanent tents, which flank a World Heritage Listed shoreline and the inimitable Ningaloo Reef. Ningaloo is acknowledged as the best place in the world to swim with the world’s largest fish, the whale shark, and guests can take the day-long expedition aboard Wave Rider, the resort’s floating enclave of teak and leather, to experience this majestic natural wonder for themselves.

But there’s more: eat three-course dinners under a glittering fishbowl night sky, spangled with stars; come face to face with sweet-faced wallaroos (similar to kangaroos, but smaller) in the spinifex-freckled dunes; watch the sun take its spectacular daily dive into the ocean from your hammock, perhaps as passing whales splash on the horizon. Then, each night, retreat to the thickness of sleep in a plush, downy bed beneath a roof made of canvas. ‘Glamping’ at its finest.

From $750 per night // salsalis.com.au 朝着澳大利亚广袤的赭色内陆边缘走去，您会在内陆沙 地与碧色海洋相会之地发现一个极为精致的小小荒野旅 舍隐藏于沙丘之中。Sal Salis酒店位于西澳大利亚州珊 瑚海岸（Coral Coast），拥有16顶设施完善的半永久帐 篷，分列于跻身世界遗产名录的海岸线以及无与伦比的 宁格鲁礁（Ningaloo Reef）两侧。宁格鲁是公认与世 界上最大的鱼类— —鲸鲨共泳的全球最佳地点。客人们 还可以参加为时一天的Wave Rider探险之旅，登上Sal Salis酒店的游艇，亲身体验瑰丽的自然奇观。 精彩远远不止于此。您还可以在澄明如洗、星光熠熠 的夜空下享用由三道菜构成的晚餐，在长满三齿稃的沙 丘上与长相甜美的岩大袋鼠（与袋鼠类似，但体型更小一 些）不期而遇，躺在吊床上欣赏太阳西沉入海的绮丽风 光，说不定还有路过的鲸鱼在海平面上溅起阵阵浪花。 然后，每个晚上，您都可以在帆布帐篷里松软舒适的床 上进入香甜的梦乡。这不正是豪华露营体验的极致吗？每 晚：750澳元起。 95

ECO LO D G E S

THE TASTEFUL GOURMET HAVEN ROYAL MAIL HOTEL, THE GRAMPIANS, VIC Nestled at the foot of the romantic Grampian mountain range, the Royal Mail Hotel has carved an international reputation out of producing and serving some of the most exquisite food in the Southern Hemisphere.

The hotel’s 60-seat restaurant has long championed local and seasonal produce, but the arrival of a new chef in 2014 has seen the hotel’s food ethos further realised via newly expanded gardens and an integrated breeding program raising the restaurant’s lamb and beef on a nearby organic farm.

Guests can now take the 45-minute chef’s tour each morning around the hotel gardens (four times their original size) to admire the bountiful produce being grown for their meals, and say hello to the property’s ducks, which allow the gardens to flourish in a virtually pest-free environment. Indeed, food ‘as nature intended’ is a core part of the Royal Mail ethos and so, thanks to its relatively southern position on the continent (the hotel is around two hours’ drive north of Melbourne), guests are served latitudinally appropriate produce such as seasonal stone fruit and cold water fish. Airy, minimalist rooms with heated floors, rain showers and Appelles amenities complete the experience.

From $500 per night // royalmail.com.au Royal Mail Hotel坐落于浪漫的格兰屏山脉 （Grampian Mountain）脚下，因生产和供应南半球 最精致的美食而蜚声海外。 酒店餐厅有60个座位，长期以来坚持使用本 地 和季 节性食材。2 014年，餐厅新来的主厨扩建了菜园，并制 定了一个综合养殖方案，开始在附近的一家有机农场饲 养牛和羊，直接供应餐厅。这样一来，酒店的美食风格有 了进一步发展。 每天上午，客人都可以在酒店菜园（面积已经扩大为 原来的4倍）花45分钟的时间欣赏厨师用于制作美食的 丰富食材以及观赏酒店自养的鸭子 — — 这些鸭子 使菜 园可以在几乎无虫害的环境中茂盛地生长。Royal Mail 美食烹饪风格的核心是“回归自然”，而这要归功于酒店 的地理位置。酒店位于澳洲大陆偏南地区，距墨尔本北 部约两小时车程，客人可以品尝到相应纬度的食材，如 季节性核果和冷水鱼等。通透、极简主义的房间搭配加 热地板、淋浴和Appelles品牌护肤品，将为您带来更加 完美的体验。每晚：500澳元起。

Clockwise from top Get up close and personal with Australia’s national animal; Cicada Lodge entry sprouts up amidst the environment; nature walks are best for exploring The Katherine; Royal Mail Hotel Deluxe Mountain View room; pack your hiking boots and discover Victoria’s countryside

96

ECO LO D G E S

“A MAJESTIC OUTBACK EXPERIENCE OF PICTURESQUE WALKING TRACKS, STUNNING FRESHWATER SWIMMING HOLES AND COUNTLESS OPPORTUNITIES TO SPOT NATIVE WILDLIFE” THE ECO-CHIC LODGE CICADA LODGE, KATHERINE, NT At Nitmiluk National Park, located in the Northern Territory, there are two wonderful discoveries to be made. The first is the world-famous, billion-year-old Katherine Gorge, a majestic outback experience of picturesque walking tracks, stunning freshwater swimming holes and countless opportunities to spot native wildlife, including crocodiles, kangaroos and ospreys.

The second is five-star eco-resort, Cicada Lodge.

In Australia it’s very rare indeed to find luxury lodgings inside a nationally protected wilderness space, but this hotel – owned and operated by local Indigenous community, the Jaowyn people – is far from ordinary.

From the native flavours, such as lemon-myrtle and wattleseed served in the on-site fine-dining restaurant, to the personal stories shared by Indigenous staff members about their connection to country, this sustainably minded, socially progressive luxury enclave offers an authentic Indigenous experience in the heartland of Australia’s stunning outback territory.

From $695 per night // cicadalodge.com.au 位于北领地的尼特米鲁克国家公园(Nitmiluk National Park)将为您带来两大绝妙发现。首先是举世闻名的凯瑟 琳峡谷(Katherine Gorge) ，其历史有十亿年之久。这 片腹地气势恢弘，有着风景如画的步行道、令人惊叹的淡 水天然游泳洞和数不尽的本土野生动物，包括鳄鱼、袋鼠 和鱼鹰。 其次便是五星级生态度假村Cicada Lodge。在澳大 利亚，您很难在国家保护的野生环境中找到奢华旅馆，但 是这间由当地原住民Jaowyn人拥有并经营的酒店则与 众不同。不仅这里的美食餐厅供应本土风味，原住民员工 还会与您分享他们与该地区的故事。这片持续发展、不断 进步的奢华飞地将为您带来澳大利亚腹地真正的原住民 体验。每晚：695澳元起。 97

ECO LO D G E S

“EACH EVENING, GUESTS CAN TAKE A DUSK-LIT SAFARI TOUR ALONG THE PROPERTY’S THICKLY FORESTED PLAINS”

Clockwise from top Wolgan Valley’s prime location; the resort at dusk; eco-lodges don’t skimp on luxury fit-outs, like your own private plunge pool; suites take full advantage of the views; you’ll feel right at home here at Wolgan Valley

98

ECO LO D G E S

THE COUNTRY-CHIC ESCAPE ONE&ONLY WOLGAN VALLEY RESORT & SPA, WOLGAN VALLEY, NSW Internationally lauded uber-hotel One & Only Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa does little to promote its sixstar sustainability rating, preferring to focus on other aspects of its guest experience: such as its multiaward-winning spa and 40 ultra-exclusive villas, each of which features its own private lap pool. Despite such indoor luxuries, however, this super-lodge is most memorable for its spectacular setting.

Located on a private, 2,830-hectare conservation reserve, One & Only Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa is positioned between two national parks in the foothills of the World Heritage Listed Blue Mountains. Each evening, guests can take a dusk-lit safari tour along the property’s thickly forested plains, where conservation efforts have resulted in such a plentiful native population of wombats that it’s virtually impossible not to experience an intimate meeting with at least one (keep an eye out for the rare albino wallaroos that live here, too). You can also spot a platypus on a guided walking tour, take a horse-riding or mountain bike excursion, partake in spotlight wildlife spotting and stargazing, or visit the Wollemi Pine Grove, a forest of one of the world’s rarest trees, belonging to a 35,000-year-old plant family thought to be extinct until recently.

This was the first hotel in the world to achieve internationally accredited carbon neutral certification, but its luxury credentials are just as worthy: this year it was voted Australia’s number one hotel on TripAdvisor.

Don’t miss the generous array of local cheeses on offer in the walk-in wine cellar.

From $1,740 per night // oneandonlyresorts.com One&Only沃根谷豪华度假村酒店是一家享有国际声誉 的顶级酒店。与其六星级的可持续性评级相比，酒店更 加关注客户体验的其他方面，比如获奖无数的水疗体验 和40幢超豪华别墅，而且每幢别墅都配有小型私人游泳 池。虽然室内设施十分奢华，但这间超级酒店最令人印象 深刻的莫过于其优美壮丽的环境。 O n e&O n l y 沃根 谷豪华度假村 酒店坐落于面 积 达 2,830公顷的私有保护区中，位于名列世界遗产名录的蓝 山（Blue Mountains）山脚下的两个国家公园之间。每天 晚上，客人可以沿酒店郁郁葱葱的平原来一场黄昏徒步之 旅。由于这儿采取了保育措施，本地袋熊种群繁殖旺盛， 您会与至少一只袋熊来一次亲密会面（还要留心在这儿 生活，非常珍稀的白化岩大袋鼠）。您还可以在导游的陪 同下徒步去寻找鸭嘴兽、骑马或骑山地车、参加夜间野生 动物发现和观察活动，或者探访瓦勒迈松森林（Wollemi Pine Grove）。瓦勒迈松是世界上最珍稀的树种之一，属 于一个具有35,000年悠久历史的植物科系。人们之前认 为瓦勒迈松早已绝种，直到最近才又重新发现。 One&Only沃根谷豪华度假村酒店是世界上第一家 获得国际公认的碳中和认证的酒店。不仅如此，它的奢华 程度也有确凿可信的证据。今年，酒店荣获猫途鹰澳大 利亚酒店评选第一名。酒店的酒窖供应种类丰富的当地 奶酪，无需预约即可光顾，千万不要错过！每晚：1,740澳 元起。 99

ECO LO D G E S

THE INDIGENOUS AUSTRALIAN INSPIRED RETREAT KARIJINI ECO RETREAT, KARIJINI NP, WA The hauntingly beautiful, breathtakingly remote Karijini National Park is believed to be one of the oldest places on earth; and on-site accommodation, Karijini Eco Retreat is the ultimate base from which to explore it. This tiny oasis of 40 upmarket eco tents features floors of recycled timber, solar power, en-suite bathrooms and luxe, kingsize beds to retreat to at the end of each day, as well as a contemporary open-air restaurant and well-stocked bar.

But don’t spend too much time in your room. With Karijini’s remote location on the endless plains of the Pilbara region, this is a truly unique destination. From the retreat you can stroll to nearby Joffre Gorge – a 2.5 billion-year-old spectacle of brilliant red cliff faces and cascading waterfalls – or head further afield to some of the most beautiul swimming spots known to mankind, like the stunningly clear, bright turquoise waters of Fortescue Falls, or Circular Pool. It’s as infinitely Instagrammable as it sounds.

Karijini shows evidence of Aboriginal occupation dating back more than 30,000 years, and today their culture is vibrantly evident throughout the area. In fact, the retreat is owned by the Gumala Aboriginal Corporation, which each year puts on an exclusive event, the Karijini Experience. This special annual festival includes a degustation dinner under the stars, cooked by an Indigenous chef using native ingredients, photography tours, painting workshops and an indigenous music concert – but numbers are strictly limited to maintain the pristine surrounds.

From $315 per night // karijiniecoretreat.com.au 据说卡里基尼国家公园（Karijini National Park）是地 球上最古老的地方之一，偏远之极却拥有美不胜收的风 景，令人难以忘怀。而公园中的住宿之所——卡里基尼生 态度假酒店正是探访它的终极大本营。酒店位于一块小 小的绿洲上，由40顶高档的生态帐篷构成，配有再生木 材地板、太阳能、独立卫浴以及令您每晚安眠的豪华特大 床，更有现代露天餐厅和供应各色美酒的酒吧为您带来 奢华享受。 不过您不需要总是待在房间里。卡里基尼位于皮尔巴 拉（Pilbara）地区无边无际的平原偏远地带，是一个真 正独一无二的旅游目的地。您可以从酒店漫步到附近的 裘富里峡谷（Joffre Gorge），一处拥有25亿年历史的 自然奇观，去观赏壮丽的红色悬崖峭壁和咆哮奔腾的瀑 布群；您还可以再向远处前行，来到世人所知的一些最 美丽的游泳之所，比如清澈透亮、碧波荡漾的福斯克瀑布 （Fortescue Falls），或者环形水潭（Circular Pool）， 光是听名字就觉得非常值得发在Instagram上。 卡里 基尼 还留存 着 3 0 , 0 0 0 多年 前土著居民 在 此 繁 衍 生 息 的 证 据 。如 今，生 机 勃 勃 的 土 著 文 化 在 这 一 地 区随 处可见 。事 实 上，卡里 基尼 生 态 度假 酒 店由 Gumala Aboriginal Corporation所有，该公司每年 都会举办一场盛大的活动——卡里基尼体验节（Karijini Experience）。这一特别的年度盛典包括享用由土著厨 师使用当地食材烹制的星空晚宴、摄影之旅、绘画工作坊 和土著音乐会——但为了与这儿的原始环境和谐一致， 观众人数受到严格限制。每晚：315澳元起。 100

ECO LO D G E S

THE SECRET ISLAND RESORT CAPELLA LODGE, LORD HOWE ISLAND, NSW You don’t have to traverse the world for that ‘ultimatesecluded-island-paradise’ feel. In fact, if you’re staying in New South Wales’ bustling capital, Sydney, you don’t even have to leave the state.

A two-hour trip by plane will land you on the 11-square-kilometre island known as Lorde Howe. It ticks all the boxes for a secret island getaway: white sand beaches, tropical palm forests, rugged walking tracks and strict visitor cap. (A maximum of 400 people may visit here at any time.)

The secret within the secret, however, is ultraexclusive Capella Lodge. This deliberately low-key, luxurious bolthole sits directly within the wilderness, offering an alluring mix of outstanding service, snuggly Bemboka rugs, organic food, and modern architecture, which frames intimate views of the dramatic conclusion to the southern end of the island, Mount Gower.

If you can drag yourself away from your Justin Long-designed villa – complete with an inclusive minibar of locally sourced treats and twice-daily service – bicycles will carry you around the small island to its many secluded beaches. An unusual equatorial current also sustains the most southern tropical reef on the planet here, creating outstanding snorkelling and diving. Paradise on earth indeed.

From $750 per night // lordhowe.com 无需遍览世界，便可畅享“极致清幽的岛屿天堂”。事 实上，如果您刚好住在新南威尔士州繁华的首府悉尼，那 么您甚至无需离开该州一步。 历经两小时的飞行之旅，您将降落于11公里外的豪勋 爵岛（Lorde Howe）。这里符合秘密岛屿之旅的所有要 求— —白色沙滩、热带棕榈森林、崎岖的步行道和严格 的游客容量(每次只允许最多400人同时参观)。 而最隐秘之处正是超豪华的Capella Lodge。这个 刻意保持低调的奢华度假胜地正好位于荒野之中，这里 有出色的服务、温暖的Bemboka毯子和有机美食，令人 欲罢不能。此外，这座现代建筑还让您能够近距离观赏 位于岛屿南端的高尔山（Mount Gower）。 贾斯汀·朗（Justin Long）设计的别墅，每日供应两 次当地美味小吃的迷你吧（包含在房费中）。您还可以骑 自行车探访小岛上的众多僻静海滩。不同寻常的赤道洋 流在此形成了地球最南端的热带珊瑚礁，并且创造出南 半球最好的浮潜和潜水胜地。这里是当之无愧的人间天 堂。每晚：750澳元起。

Clockwise from top At Karijini the secluded landscape is truly captivating; Capella Lodge’s rooms boast views of both the ocean and forest; Capella blends with its surroundings; stars light up the night sky at Karijini

101

ECO LO D G E S

THE HIDDEN LUXURY CAMP PAPERBARK CAMP, NSW There’s no mistaking, during a stay at Paperbark Camp, that you’re in the middle of a paperbark forest. Hidden on a 34-hectare patch of bush two and a half hours’ south of Sydney, this tranquil collection of just 12 glamping tents leaves plenty of room for resident kangaroos, cockatoos and possums. Sit quietly on your wraparound verandah and they will presently reveal themselves.

Paperbark is well known for its friendly ‘locals’, but this multi-award-winning luxury glampsite offers more than wildlife. Close enough to beautiful Jervis Bay’s white-sand beaches, resident dolphins and ocean-scented national park, the camp offers plenty of activities for nature-lovers: mountain biking, birdwatching, canoeing, sea kayaking, horse riding and more. Those in need of pampering are well looked after with yoga, wine tasting, reiki therapy and massage, as well as fine dining at culinary icon, The Gunyah.

Located in a contemporary treehouse, this restaurant is an unmissable highlight serving line-caught fish from the nearby bay, oysters from the local river and excellent wines from New South Wales vineyards.

Each elevated tent has hardwood flooring, high thread counts, local artisan furnishings, free-standing bathtubs and a private, open-air shower, making it a joy to retreat to each evening – but the best part of Paperbark is reserved for mornings. Waking up in the forest, to the calls of birds and pouring sunlight, is irreplaceably special.

From $395 per night // paperbarkcamp.com.au 毫无疑问，入住Paperbark Camp，您将置身于白千层 林之中。Paperbark Camp隐藏于34公顷的灌木区域之 中，距离悉尼南部两个半小时路程，这个只有12顶豪华露 营帐篷的宁静营地为生活于此的袋鼠、凤头鹦鹉和负鼠 留出了足够的空间。静静地坐在环绕走廊之上，它们马上 就会出现在您的面前。 Paperbark因其友好的“本地居民”而闻名于世，然 而这个屡获殊荣的奢华营地带给您的远不止野生动物。 近距离的接触美丽的杰维斯湾(Jervis Bay)的白色沙滩、 生活于此的海豚、国家公园和原住民文化遗产以及空气中 弥漫着的海洋气息，营地可以为自然爱好者提供众多活 动，包括山地自行车、鸟类观赏、划独木舟、海上皮划艇、 骑马，甚至更多。对于那些需要舒 适享受的人来说，瑜 伽、品酒、灵气疗法和按摩，以及在标志性美食餐厅The Gunyah享受精致美食都是不错的选择。The Gunyah 餐厅位于现代树屋之上，供应直接从附近海湾捕获的鱼 类、从当地河流捕获的牡蛎以及来自新南威尔士州葡萄 园的精品佳酿，不容错过。 每顶被架高的帐篷都配有硬木地板、高密度织物、当 地工匠打造的家具、独立浴缸和私人露天淋浴间，让您能 够尽情享受每个夜晚的乐趣。但是，Paperbark最美好 的时光还是清晨。聆听着鸟儿的吟唱在森林中醒来，沐浴 在倾泻而入的阳光下，让您获得绝无仅有的独特享受。每 晚：395澳元起。 Clockwise from top One of the most luxurious tents you’ll come across; pass your time stargazing; find a secluded spot to relish some downtime; no sign of camp food here; Jervis Bay

1 02

ECO LO D G E S

103

THE OUTBACK SAFARI LODGE WITH STYLE EL QUESTRO, KIMBERLEY, WA One of the world’s last remaining wilderness frontiers, the Kimberley is a classic Australian landscape of dramatic gorges and outback mountain ranges, dotted with waterholes and prolific wildlife populations.

Among its sweeping plains you’ll find a million-acre conservation reserve, El Questro Wilderness Park – and within that, atop a cliff edge above the Chamberlain River, you’ll find a small, wondrously elegant retreat.

El Quester Homestead is a dream destination in welltravelled circles, offering six-star comforts in the style of a well-appointed British-colonial safari lodge. Incredibly, the park is so large, and retains so many dramatic gorges and hidden waterholes, that not yet everything on the map has a name – but that doesn’t mean there aren’t mentionable highlights. Guests can take a private soak in the thermal waters of Zebedee Springs, under the canopy of the area’s magnificent palm forest; experience a picnic for two atop bronzed cliffs; drift over infinite plains in a hotel helicopter; or swim in the crystal clear pools of Emma Gorge. Some are even known to pack a week’s worth of books and laze about on their panoramic balcony, simply reading in the breeze.

Just six suites make up the homestead, accompanied by three standalone villas. The Homestead is an easy 90-minute drive from the nearby town of Kununurra, or accessible via private airstrip.

From $1,969 // elquestro.com.au 作为世界上最后的荒野边境之一，金伯利（Kimberley） 呈现出典型的澳大利亚大峡谷和内陆山脉地貌，水潭星 罗棋布，野生动物种群丰富多样。在金伯利广阔的平原上 有一个面积达上百万英亩的保护区——埃尔奎斯特荒野 公园（El Questro Wilderness Park），而在公园中张伯 伦河（Chamberlain River）上一处悬崖边缘顶端，您将 看到一个虽小却极其精致的度假村。 对 于 经 常 旅 行 的 人 而 言 ，埃 尔 奎 斯 特 农 庄（ E l Quester Homestead）是一个梦幻的旅游目的地。这 是一家英属殖民地风格的荒野旅舍，设施齐全，可为您提 供六星级的舒适体验。埃尔奎斯特荒野公园大得令人难 以置信，而且还保留着许许多多鬼斧神工的峡谷，隐藏着 无数个水潭。虽然地图上有许多地方尚未命名，但这并不 意味着这儿没有值得一提的亮点。客人们可以在泽比第泉 （Zebedee Springs）中享受私密的温泉浴，高大宏伟 的棕榈林正好形成天然的华盖；还可以在古铜色的悬崖 顶上来一场双人野餐，乘坐酒店直升机穿越无边无际的 平原，或者在艾玛峡谷（Emma Gorge）清澈的水塘中 游泳。甚至有些人还会带来可供一周阅读的书籍，然后在 自己的全景阳台上休闲度日，唯有清风书香相伴。 埃尔奎斯特农庄仅有6间套房和3栋独立别墅。农庄距 离附近的城镇库努纳拉（Kununurra）仅有90分钟车程， 或者您也可以乘坐私人飞机前往。每晚：1,969澳元起。

Clockwise from top The cliffside location of El Quester Homestead; sweeping views from Bedarra Island suites; indulge at El Quester; be at one with nature at El Questro Wilderness Park

104

ECO LO D G E S

“THERE ARE A NUMBER OF DESERTED ISLANDS NEARBY, ON WHICH STAFF CAN ORGANISE A CANDLELIT DINNER FOR TWO OR GOURMET PICNIC” THE BAREFOOT ESCAPE BEDARRA ISLAND RESORT, GREAT BARRIER REEF, QLD Ultra-exclusive Bedarra Island Resort, located on the Great Barrier Reef’s Bedarra Island, was barely recognisable after a tropical cyclone tore through the area in 2011. In the wake of the devastation the resort took a consciously sustainable turn, replacing diesel generators with an off-grid solar system, installing a bio-cycle septic system and transforming its 16 luxurious suites into just eight spacious villas – the most the island could sustain on a long-term basis, according to a sustainability analysis undertaken the same year.

But Bedarra remains an unapologetically high-end luxury escape. Private plunge pools, floor-to-ceiling glass walls, an open bar and the obligatory champagne on arrival are standard aspects of the guest experience, along with a range of location-specific experiences based around the island’s exquisite surrounds. Explore the rainforest edged by a series of granite outcrops. Laze on one of its dazzlingly white pockets of secluded sand.

Alternatively, there are a number of deserted islands nearby, on which staff can organise a candlelit dinner for two or gourmet picnic. Of course, snorkelling and diving activities on the Great Barrier Reef are also available, along with other water activities such as sea kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding and fishing. But the most important thing guests do here? Relax, of course.

From $1,250 per night // bedarra.com 超豪华度假村Bedarra Island Resort位于大堡礁的贝达 拉岛(Bedarra Island)。2011年热带气旋横扫该区域后， 这里几乎面目全非。灾难过后，度假村向可持续发展的方 向发展，采用离网太阳能系统取代了柴油发电机，建立了 生物循环化粪池系统，并根据同年的可持续性分析，分析 出岛上能够长期维持的最大容量，将16间奢华套房改造 成了8间宽敞别墅。 但Bedarra仍然是无可置疑的高端奢华逃离胜地。私人 泳池、落地玻璃墙、露天酒吧和永远不会少的迎客香槟，都 是这里宾客体验的“标配”。与此同时，客人还能亲身体验 岛上独特的精致景观。您可以探索周边遍布花岗岩的雨林， 也可以慵懒地躺在耀眼宁静的白色沙滩上，或者前往周边 诸多荒无人烟的小岛，让工作人员为您安排双人烛光晚餐 或野餐美食。当然，您也可以在大堡礁浮潜和潜水，或参与 其他水上活动如海上皮划艇、立式单桨冲浪和海钓。但对于 游客来说，此行最重要的事情当然是放松。每晚：1,250起。 105

LIJIANG

Locked in time From the charming Old Town at its centre to the epic Jade Snow Dragon Mountain backdrop on its outskirts, Lijiang is a city as beautiful as it is historic, writes Constantina Pilatos

106

LIJIANG

1 07

LIJIANG

I

t’s around 7am and the morning mist that clouds Lijiang is beginning to dissipate, revealing the city’s impressive backdrop: a collection of snow-capped mountains. They look surreal, almost like they’ve been photoshopped. The sky is a vibrant blue and the contrasting tops are stark white.

These mountain peaks define Lijiang’s horizon. This south-western city is a little different to others in China.

Lijiang sits on a plateau that has an elevation of 2,400 metres, with surrounding mountain peaks reaching as high as 5,600 metres. The first thing you need to know about travelling to Lijiang is that altitude sickness is a real concern. I won’t bore you with the nitty-gritty details, but reading up on it is imperative.

Now that the disclaimer is out of the way, let’s continue. Arguably Yunnan’s prettiest city (there are many, the province is renowned for its beauty), Lijiang is blessed with fresh air, clean streams and undisturbed landscapes that are inhabited by the friendliest locals you’ll come across on your worldly travels. And as the city is rich with untouched nature spots, it’s equally rich with culture, boasting a history that dates all the way back to 476 BC, which has been best preserved at the city’s main attraction, Old Town.

FROM THE PAST

So exactly how popular is the Old Town of Lijiang?

Around eight million people a year walk the cobbled stone paths and narrow alleyways of this historic site.

Mornings are the best time to explore as the crowds of people are yet to arrive. Though part of this town’s charm is the chaos of trying to navigate your way through lanes that dissect a web of artery-like canals, while brushing shoulders with fellow wanderers, to

108

LIJIANG

Clockwise from above: Views of the Old Town from up high in Lijiang; a snaking network of lanes runs throughout the Old Town; Yuquan Spring, better known as Black Dragon Pool

capture the town’s ancient feel there’s no way around it but to sacrifice a sleep in.

In the early hours of the day, not much is open. The street-side stores that are thriving at night don’t operate until the tourists start rolling in. It’s peaceful. You’ll only come across locals getting a head start on their days.

Some will be working portable food stalls where you can pick up a warm doughy breakfast to-go, others will be passing through to get to the other side of town. Or they’ll be exercising, practising tai chi or just stretching.

When the streets are virtually empty you can see the intricacies of the Old Town, which is what landed it on the World’s Relics by the World Cultural Heritage Commission of the UNESCO list, back in 1997.

The Old Town of Lijiang is the only old city in China that was built without a city wall. There’s an interesting story behind the reasoning for this. During the city’s construction, Lijiang was under the reign of the Mu family, and had been for more than 500 years.

If you take the Chinese character for ‘Mu’ and put it into a frame (representing the city wall), you get the character ‘Kun’ which means siege or predicament. The governing family took this to mean their descendants would always feel trapped. Because of this symbolism, the Old Town was never given a city wall. As a result, the city was open and welcomed all. Lijiang is now a cultural hot pot with 55 ethnic minorities living in the city, with the Naxi minority being most prominent.

Thanks to the variety of cultures, ancient buildings here incorporate the best parts of architecture traits of Han, Bai and Tibet into a unique Naxi style. The layout of the town is free-style and flexible, the houses are close and diverse, and the lanes are narrow and meandering.

Naxi people pay attention to decoration. The roomy houses are mostly timber with a courtyard in the centre.

Each of the homes has vivid figures of people and animals engraved on door and window frames.

FEAST ON THIS

If these ancient structures aren’t being used by locals as houses, you’ll often find they’re remodelled as restaurants, which means you can wander in and sit for a meal or just have a peek. If you’re going to eat, you can’t turn down the opportunity to try Naxi cuisine.

Snack on bean jelly made from Jidou, a kind of Lijiang bean, washed down with some buttered tea. If you’re in the mood for something more hearty, order a hot pot with dried spare ribs followed by a visit to the Old Town night markets where you can sink your teeth into some deep-fried scorpion on a stick or snack on a bucket of crumbed silk worms. Those with a more refined palette will be happy to know there are less daring options, like potato crisps and freshly cracked > coconuts, on offer.

109

LIJIANG

Most of the Old Town activities are centred around the Old Market Square from which all the canals stem.

The maze of canals once led the city’s drinking water from Yuquan Spring, on the far outskirts, now known as Black Dragon Pool Park.

HIGHER GROUND

On the northern edge of town is Black Dragon Pool Park. Its view of Jade Snow Dragon Mountain is the most obligatory photoshoot in south-west China, and this is no exaggeration. The pool is enormous; with an area of 40 hectares it provides a haven for bird and water life. Surrounding the pool within the park’s landscape are ancient monuments such as the Longshen Temple, Deyue Pavilion, Suocui Bridge and Hanyue Stage, which are all worth a visit.

Deyue Pavilion is instantly recognisable, mainly because it’s the focus of the majority of photos taken of the park. It sits at the centre of the lake, reflected in the water and only reached by walking over a white stone bridge. In spring, the pavilion is surrounded by lush green trees with the peaks of the Jade Snow Dragon Mountain perfectly placed behind it. As already stated, you won’t get a better photo. Well, perhaps you might 110

from the top of Jade Snow Dragon Mountain, but only if the weather permits it.

Consisting of 13 peaks, of which Shanzidou is the highest with an altitude of 5,600 metres, the mountain stretches a length of 35km. According to the research of geologists, for about 400 million years the area around the mountain was the ocean, and it was only during the last 600,000 years that the different landscapes have come into being because of the uprising of the lithosphere.

Today, you can ride one of China’s highest trams, sitting at 4,506 metres, that drops you off at Glacier Park, where you can access stairs to the summit. Due to the elevation you can expect mist and fog to obstruct views, even on days when the weather is perfect – but don’t let that deter you. Unless you’re an experienced climber and can take on Mount Everest, which has roughly 4,000 more metres on Jade Snow Dragon Mountain, this will probably be one of the tallest peaks you’ll visit in China as a tourist. And if you manage to swing visiting on a day where the sky is clear, the sweeping view of Lijiang is simply breathtaking... though that could just be from the altitude. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Above: On a clear day, you can enjoy incredible views from the top of Jade Snow Dragon Mountain Opposite, clockwise from top: Amandayan swimming pool; suite interior; and reception chandalier

LIJIANG

LIVE IT UP IN LIJIANG Luxury hotels in Lijiang go above and beyond to blend in with the Old Town.

And none do so better than Amandayan.

Set on a hill, each of the 35 suites opens onto a courtyard or terrace, similar to the dwellings in town. Interiors are made from materials and fabrics from the region, including custom Dong Bei elm furnishings and local Dongba wood carvings of flowers and birds.

You can enjoy the Old Town away from the crowds at the resort’s Tea House, which boasts one of the best vantages over Lijiang. To relax muscles tired from exploring, head to the spa, which incorporates traditional Chinese medicine in its services.

From $930 per night, aman.com

>

111

SYDNEY

健康周末

wellness weekends In a fast-paced city like Sydney, embracing healthy living can sometimes be tough – but luckily, a growing number of eateries and spas are making wellness their main mission 在悉尼这个快节奏的城市生活，想要实践健康 生活并不是一件容易的事情。幸而越来越多的 餐厅和水疗中心开始注重健康养生

112

SYDNEY

A

s the sun rises over Sydney Harbour, the tourists are still asleep. The seagulls are just starting to stir. The bustling thoroughfare of Circular Quay is clear; even the Sydney Opera House steps are empty. Almost. The fitness app Map My Run’s most popular Sydney route is a 6km loop around the Sydney Botanical Gardens and the Opera House. Every morning, rain, hail or shine, you’ll find joggers running around what is one of the world’s most spectacular, well-worn paths, because Sydneysiders are serious about exercise. The Sydney Opera House’s seasonal outdoor exercise classes are sellouts. That’s because Sydneysiders aren’t afraid to use their city’s most famous assets as the backdrop for fitness, health and wellbeing activities. And that means you shouldn’t be either. Here’s our guide on how to have a wellness weekend in Sydney.

If a holiday or weekend away is an opportunity to spend more time looking after yourself than you get during the week, Sydney’s boutique gyms and fitness centres are worth visiting. Flow Athletic, in Sydney’s inner city suburb of Paddington, is well known for its holistic approach to wellness. The luxury fitness studio burst onto the scene in 2013, and heralded a new era of fitness in Sydney – think large floor-to-ceiling windows, minimalist design and a stunning location, with views looking out over the exclusive, leafy suburb. More day spa than gym, the award-winning, cutting-edge design aesthetic is paired with the studio’s innovative approach. Although there are dedicated studios for yoga, spin cycle and TRX rope training, classes combine strength, flexibility and cardio. The BikeAsana class is one of the most popular, combining 30 minutes of spin training with 30 minutes of yoga. >

当

太阳从悉尼港（SydneyHarbour） 缓缓升起，游客们却还沉浸在梦乡 之中，一夜的静寂被早起的海鸥悄 悄打破。通往环形码头（Circular Quay） 的道路原本熙熙攘攘，此时却空无一人，悉 尼歌剧院（Sydney Opera House）的台 阶上也几乎是空空荡荡的。围绕悉尼植物园 （Sydney Botanical Gardens）和歌剧院 的一段6公里的环形线路，是健身APP—— Map My Run上悉尼最受欢迎的慢跑路线， 也是世界上最引人入胜的慢跑路线。悉尼人 非常重视运动锻炼，无论春夏秋冬、风霜雨 雪，每天清晨都会有慢跑者绕着这条路线慢 跑。而且，悉尼歌剧院的季节性户外锻炼课 程十分抢手，早早销售一空。悉尼人总是愿 意借助悉尼最著名的景点来开展与健身、健 康和福祉有关的活动，这意味着您也可以毫 不犹豫的享受其中。下面我们将为您介绍如 何在悉尼享受健康周末。 如果想在假日或周末花比平时更多的时 间锻炼一下，悉尼的精品健身房和健身中心 无疑是您的明智之选。Flow Athletic位于 悉尼内城区的帕丁顿（Paddington），因 其全面的锻炼方法而名扬四海。这间奢华 > 113

SYDNEY

Post-workout head across the road to The Raw Takeaway, a small cafe stocked with raw food treats, salads and smoothies from famous local health elixir group Orchard St. What began as an organic, coldpressed juice cleanse program by naturopath Kirsten Harvey has expanded to three locations, including the original Dispensary in Bronte and a flagship Elixir Bar in North Bondi. The Orchard St Elixir Bar is a mecca for health-conscious Bondi residents, who pop in for kombucha on tap, organic, nutritionally balanced meals like Mermaid Salad, a medley of mineral rich seaweeds, carrot, shallots and capsicum, and hot infused herbal drinks. The Orchard St sweets have their own dedicated fans, who indulge guilt free in treats like Banoffee Boost Bars made on sprouted rice protein and designed for post-workout recovery or raw cacao and buckwheat Celestial Chaga Slices.

Bondi’s beach might be the most iconic landmark of this coastal suburb, but the community’s commitment to healthy living is almost as famous. Along with Orchard St, there are plenty of organic eateries, juice bars and food stores clustered around the beach. The Health Emporium has been bringing organic fresh vegetables, fruit, cheeses, breads and dairy products to the local residents for the last decade. Its superfood smoothies are popular year round, but expect lines out the door in summer. Earth Food Store’s “buffins” (buckwheat muffins) and Porch and Parlour’s Green Brekky Bowls are other local must-trys. Porch and Parlour’s Mediterraneanesque cafe looks straight out to the ocean and is a great spot to settle in for a post-swim meal, or an early evening dinner. Local wines, craft beer and regional produce are highlights on a menu designed for sharing.

114

的健身室于2013年横空出世，开启了悉尼健 身的新纪元。大型的落地玻璃窗、简约的设 计、绝佳的地理位置以及独一无二、绿树成 荫的郊区景观。与其说这是一间健身房，不 如说它是一间日间水疗中心，屡获殊荣的 前沿设计美学与健身室的创新方法在此完 美融合。尽管这里有专门的瑜伽室、动感单 车室和TRX拉力绳训练室，但是所有课程都 将力量、柔韧性和有氧运动完美结合。融合 了30分钟动感单车与30分钟瑜伽的BikeAsana课程是这里最受欢迎的课程之一。 健身结束后，您可以前往街对面的The Raw Takeaway。在这间小咖啡馆中，品尝 由当地著名健康饮食团队Orchard St打造 的原材料小吃、沙拉和思慕雪。由自然疗法 医师克尔斯滕·哈维（Kirsten Harvey）发

Below: Porch and Parlour is one of many organic eateries that have turned Bondi into a health hub

SYDNEY

起的有机冷榨果汁节食计划已经推广至3个 地方，包括位于勃朗特（Bronte）的始祖店 Dispensary和位于北邦迪（North Bondi） 的旗舰店Elxir Bar。The Orchard St Elixr Bar是有健康意识的邦迪居民的热门去处， 他们热衷于草本热饮、桶装康普茶、有机 食品以及营养均衡的美食，如M e r m a i d Salad——一种由富含矿物质的海藻、胡萝 卜、红葱和辣椒混合而成的沙拉。Orchard St的甜品也拥有自己的铁杆粉丝，他们在 享受Banoffee Boost Bar（以芽菜大米蛋 白为原料、专为运动后恢 复而制作）或者 Celestial Chaga Slices（用生可可和荞麦 制作而成）时，不会有任何负罪感。 邦迪海滩可能是这个滨海郊区最具标志 性的地标，当地人对于健康生活的追求几 乎同样执著。除Orchard St外，海滩周边遍 布有机餐厅、果汁酒吧和食品商店。在过去 十年中，Health Emporium一直致力于为 当地居民供应新鲜有机蔬菜、水果、奶酪、 面包和乳制品。超级食物思慕雪在一年四 季都大受欢迎，每到夏季，店外都会大排长 龙。Earth Food Store的松饼和Porch and Parlour的Green Brekky Bowls都是当地 的必尝美食。地中海风情咖啡馆Porch and Parlour面朝大海，是游泳后品尝美食或在傍 晚时分享用晚餐的绝佳地点。当地葡萄酒、 手工酿制啤酒和地方特色食材都不容错过。 除美食美酒外，邦迪还是户外健身爱好 者的乐园。虽然位于滨海地带的露天健身 房很受当地人和到访名流的欢迎，但是所有 人均可免费使用。您可以从邦迪冰山俱乐部 （Bondi Icebergs）观赏到这片海滩上最 壮丽的一些美景。邦迪冰山俱乐部的游泳 池、咖啡馆和餐厅声名远播，还有全年开办 的海边瑜伽（Yoga by the Sea）课程。拿 >

Above: Manly’s Ruby Lane is dedicated to teaching the value of healthy eating Below: Views along the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk

Aside from wining and dining, Bondi is an outdoor fitness lover’s playground. The beachside open-air gyms are popular with local and visiting celebrities, but are free to be used by anyone. Some of the most stunning views of the beach are to be had from Bondi Icebergs. Home to the famous swimming pool, cafe and dining room, Icebergs also hosts Yoga by the Sea year round. Grab a mat and head down to one of the open-air rooftop balconies for an hour of Yin and Yang classes, where the sound of the sea replaces your standard yoga soundtrack. Yoga by the Sea also runs classes overlooking Tamarama and Bronte beaches – the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk connects all three beaches and is a great warm-up route prior to a yoga session.

On the other side of the city, the ocean becomes more than just a backdrop and soundtrack for wellness. Manly Harbour is the setting for a truly unique yoga session. Flow mOcean runs regular stand-up paddleboard (SUP) yoga classes from the Harbour – paddle out to a quiet spot for a one-hour class led by trained yogis. The focus is certainly not on complex yoga moves; instead you’ll activate your core strength and conquer the fear of falling into the water.

Standing in tadasana takes on new meaning when you’re floating on water. If a “floating yoga studio” is a little too much for you, flow mOcean also runs kayak yoga classes, where a half-hour kayak to a quiet beach is followed with an hour of vinyasa yoga on the sand.

Like Bondi, Manly has its own reputation for healthy living. Ruby Lane is a licensed cafe and organic grocer that opened last year and is leading the charge on reeducating people about the benefits of healthy eating.

Local owners Phil Dawson and Ben Horne spent more than a year converting a warehouse into a trendy eatery, education and retail space. Ex-Icebergs chef and nutritionist Ben has developed an extensive menu that balances flavour with nutrition. Work up an appetite out > 115

SYDNEY

on the water before a hearty breakfast of sweet potato, kale and quinoa hash or a house-made banana bread made on coconut and chia, served with cashew cream.

The raw chocolate cheesecakes are a morning-tea treat, with wraps, garden bowls and more substantial mains on the menu for lunch. Ruby Lane also hosts regular workshops, and Free Range Sundays, a regular music, wine and food festival where the focus is all local.

Workouts, juice breaks, and sightseeing are a great combination that’ll leave you invigorated, but winding down is just as important. Some of Sydney’s best spas are conveniently located inside its five-star hotels. The QT Sydney hotel is housed in what was once the historic Gowings Building and the top floors of the State Theatre.

Its award-winning day spa, SpaQ, spans across the two buildings and as such feels almost like entering another world that’s neither here nor there. Start your pampering session with some time in the traditional hammam steam room, before walking across to treatment rooms accented with hanging filament lights, quirky mirrors, Art Deco wall decals and minimalist tiles. The space is muted and calm, the perfect setting for an early evening spa treatment. A one-hour Signature Treatment is just a taster of what the spa has to offer – if you have more time, the Metamorphosis is a decadent six-hour treatment journey that starts with a steam and Spirulina wrap and ends with a glass of bubbles, with a massage, lunch and facial in between. Mix and match treatments from the likes of Uspa facials, Therapeutic Sea Salt Glows and thermal massages in longer sessions like the (Soul) Mate Escape couples session. Then there’s the Barbershop, which is busy with wet shaves, beard trims and hair cuts.

At the Park Hyatt Sydney’s The Spa, treatments are centered around the Dreaming. Inspired by the stories and essence of the land, massages and facials incorporate local ingredients such as native clay and essential oils. Rooms sit in the shadow of the Harbour Bridge, a view also enjoyed by the hotel’s famous rooftop pool. Check in for the evening to gain access to the pool, gym and the hotel’s weekly Vinyasa yoga class.

Whether you want to wind down or work out, Sydney is a city steeped in wellness, and some of the best spots to do so are also some of its most famous landmarks.

DETAILS FLOW ATHLETIC Level 1, 134 Oxford Street, Paddington flowathletic.com.au

ORCHARD STREET ELIXIR BAR 2 Brighton Boulevard, Bondi orchardstreet.com.au/ locations/bondi

PORCH AND PARLOUR 17/110 Ramsgate Avenue, North Bondi porchandparlour.com

YOGA BY THE SEA 1 Notts Avenue, Bondi yogabythesea.com.au

FLOW MOCEAN flowmocean.com.au

QSPA, QT SYDNEY 49 Market Street, Sydney CBD qthotelsandresorts.com/ sydney-cbd/spaq

THE SPA, PARK HYATT SYDNEY 7 Hickson Road, The Rocks sydney.park.hyatt.com/ hyatt/pure/spas

116

起瑜伽垫，去露天屋顶阳台参加时长为1小 时的阴阳瑜伽课程吧。在这里，您可以用海 浪的声音代替标准的瑜伽音乐。海边瑜伽 的课程还会在塔玛拉玛海滩（Tamarama Beach）和勃朗特海滩（Bronte Beach） 进行，从邦迪通往库吉（Coogee）的滨海 步行道将三大海滩连接在一起，是开始瑜 伽课程前绝佳的热身路线。 在 城 市 的另一 端，除了健 身时 的 背景 和音乐，大海还能为您带来更多。曼利港 （Manly Harbour）能够让您体验真正独 特的瑜伽课程。FlowmOcean定期开办立 桨冲浪板（SUP）瑜伽课程，训练有素的瑜 伽师将带领您从曼利港出发，划到一个安 静的地方，进行1小时的瑜伽课程。复杂的 瑜伽动作当然不是重点，相反，这一过程会 激发您的核心力量，从而克服害怕掉入水 中的恐惧。当您漂浮在水面之上，山式站立 能够带给您不同以往的感受。如果“漂浮瑜 伽”对您来说有点难，FlowmOcean还将 为您开办皮划艇瑜伽课程，您可以划半个小 时皮划艇到达一处宁静的海滩，然后在海滩 上进行1小时的流瑜伽课程。 与邦迪一样，曼利也因其健康的生活方 式而享有盛誉。Ruby Lane于去年开业，是 一家获得正式许可的咖啡馆和有机食品商 店，它改变了人们对于健康饮食的认识。经 营者菲尔·道森（Phil Dawson）和本·霍恩 （Ben Horne）都是当地人，用了一年多的 时间将仓库改造成时尚餐厅、学习空间和 零售商店。其中，身为营养学家的本是邦迪 冰山俱乐部的前任主厨，他开发出丰富的菜 单，将味道与营养完美平衡。为了满足您从 事水上运动前的食欲，他将为您精心打造丰 盛早餐：甘薯、羽衣甘蓝、藜麦或手工制作 的椰子奇亚香蕉面包搭配腰果奶油。您可 以在上午茶时间享用生巧克力奶酪蛋糕，午

SYDNEY

Above and left: QT Sydney’s award-winning day spa, SpaQ Below: The Park Hyatt Sydney boasts some of the best views the city has to offer

餐将为您奉上卷饼、田园美食和更为丰富的 主菜。Ruby Lane还会定期举办研讨会和 Free Range Sundays活动，让人们在周末 尽情享受当地的音乐、美酒和美食。 健身、茶歇和观光的完美融合将让您感 到精力充沛，但是放松身心也同样重要。悉 尼最好的一些水疗中心都位于五星级酒店 之中，很是方便。QT Sydney酒店位于历史 悠久的Gowings Building之中，以及国家 剧院（State Theatre）的顶层。其屡获殊荣 的日间水疗中心SpaQ横跨两个建筑，让您 仿佛置身于一个全新世界。在传统的土耳 其蒸汽浴室开始您的理疗之旅吧，通往理疗

室的路上遍布吊丝灯、奇特的镜子、充满艺 术气息的壁纸和简约的瓷砖。这片空间沉 静而平和，是傍晚水疗的绝佳之选。时长1 小时的招牌疗程（Signature Treatment） 只 能 让 您 简 单 体 验 水 疗。如 果 有 更 多 时 间，Metamorphosis将为您开启时长达6小 时的奢靡理疗之旅，从蒸气浴和螺旋藻身 体裹敷护理开始，以一杯气泡酒结束，其间 将为您安排按摩、午餐和面部护理。您还可 以在(Soul) Mate Escape情侣疗程等长时 间的疗程中混合搭配各种疗程，如Uspa面 部护理、海盐热敷护理（Therapeutic Sea Salt Glows）和热疗按摩等。这里还有理发 店，为您提供湿刮、修剪胡须和理发服务。 悉尼柏悦酒店（Park Hyatt Sydney）水 疗中心The Spa的所有疗程都围绕着“梦” （Dreaming）进行，从神话故事和大地精 髓中汲取灵感，按摩和面部护理的材料成分 均取自当地，如当地粘土和精油。您可以透 过房间看到海港大桥（Harbour Bridge）， 也可以在酒店著名的屋顶泳池观赏这一壮 观景色。入住酒店，享受游泳池、健身房和 每周一次的瑜伽课程吧。 无论是想在水疗中心尽情放松或是在健 身房挥汗如雨，在悉尼这座充满健康气息的 城市中，您总能找到一些最佳的所在，而且 不会错过它最著名的地标建筑。

117

BEIJING

HIDDEN TREASURES The Forbidden City may be open to thousands of daily visitors, but there are stories inside its walls that remain shrouded in mystery. Trent van der Jagt uncovers the symbolism behind Beijing’s cultural icon...

118

BEIJING

ROYAL TREATMENT

The sense of imperial power seems to resonate from within the 20-metre-thick walls of the Forbidden City, such is the feeling of awe when you step through the red arches of this UNESCO World Heritage site. Each of the emperors who ruled China across five centuries would have, in some way, made a mark on the 10,000 rooms of this sprawling maze of buildings that make up the Imperial Palace. There’s history at every turn. But it’s the stories that can’t be seen that make the Forbidden City such an intriguing place to visit. Let us take you on a guided tour of Beijing’s most iconic attraction...

119

BEIJING

HOUSE OF FENG SHUI

Following the stream of visitors through the Gate of Heavenly Peace sets you on a path straight as an arrow through China’s cultural heart. Courtyards as big as football fields are shadowed by residences, meeting halls and throne rooms each more commanding than the last. Feng shui is at the heart of nearly every Chinese architectural treasure, and there’s no denying the 72-hectare Forbidden City follows these principles perfectly.

Stretching 961 metres from north to south, the Forbidden City is a masterclass of symmetry and flow. Once seen not only as the centre of China, but also the centre of the world, the most important buildings and gates of the city run along the central axis of Beijing from front to back starting with the Meridian Gate and leading into the Hall of Supreme Harmony – the throne room and most important structure in the city.

However, it’s not just the clean lines, smooth curves and complicated yet seemingly simple layout that matters. The location of the city itself is its anchor. The Forbidden City wasn’t just dumped in any old location; after Zhu Di’s ascension to emperor in 1402, the capital – along with one million workers – was uprooted and moved to its present location, which became a base of power, working in harmony with nature.

120

BEIJING

PEARLY GATES

In every corner of every room and courtyard you’ll find a patchwork of symbolism. Every gate, carving and tiny sculptural detail is purposeful, taking nothing from modern notions of simple decoration. The running theme throughout the city is the number nine, a number of massive importance in Chinese numerology. Representing masculinity, the number nine became the shoulders upon which the city would rest. It was shaped, in nearly every way, to emphasise the highest level of masculinity: the emperor.

In such a commanding space, only the emperor, his family and his advisers were allowed to freely roam the imperial palace, a symbol of extreme wealth and power locked off to the common man.

To visit the emperor officials would need to pass through the nine gates leading to him, each also featuring rows of nine nails. And if you were to explore the city, you’d find 9,999 rooms, one less than the palace in heaven. Roofs and courtyards are protected by ever-watching carvings of nine mythical dragons. And the nines don’t stop there.

Nor does the symbolism: from the arrangements of the residences to the curvature of the roofs and the countless depictions of heavenly creatures, nearly everything here represents power and the emperor’s link to heaven: a status reserved only for him.

121

BEIJING

COLOUR THEORY

Beyond making for a pretty photograph on a sunny day, the striking colours of the Forbidden City are a lot more influential than meets the eye. The two colours you’ll find on every wall and every roof are yellow and red, both significant colours in China.

Red is still found today in every corner of Chinese life. Traditionally associated with happiness, wealth and good fortune the deep and beautiful flaming red is found throughout the city, mainly adorning the walls of the most important palaces and acting defensively along the high city walls.

While the use of red has become common practice across China, the use of the bright, golden yellow is a more reserved symbol. Representing the five elements of wood, metal, fire, water and earth, yellow stood for dignity and became associated with leadership and divinity. From the Tang dynasty, the emperor started to resemble something of a golden idol. His official clothing, his furniture, and right down to his bed sheets – they all took on the golden glow of yellow, a colour saved exclusively for him. So much so, in fact, that by the time of the Ming dynasty, it became a punishable offence to use yellow on any building that wasn’t associated with the emperor. Throughout the Forbidden City, most of the intricately decorated roof tiles are also yellow, further announcing his prestige.

122

BEIJING

PARK LIFE

It’s not all courtyards and golden-roofed buildings in the Forbidden City. After passing through the last of the sweeping marble courtyards and weaving through the snaking pathways you’ll begin to see tall trees looming above the high-walled opening into a miniature forest.

The Imperial Garden lies towards the back of the city through the Gate of Terrestrial Tranquility and acts as something of a natural retreat.

Pagodas, trees, gardens and rock formations work in harmony in this 12,000-square-metre space, all working in the most traditional Chinese style of tranquil garden design. First constructed during the Ming dynasty in 1417, the garden acted as a private retreat for the imperial family, and while today you’ll find hundreds of visitors exploring the 20 or so structures, weaving through the rock formations and admiring the huge bronze incense burners, it remains as relaxing as ever.

While much of the garden has evolved and been renovated since it was built, the trees themselves are the pillars of the park, some dating back 400 years. To watch over the space and its visitors, four pavilions were built in each corner representing the four seasons to create a balance in this natural space.

123

BEIJING

TELL TALES

Although 20,000 people flow through the gates daily there are still stories waiting to be unearthed.

A palace this large with a history this extensive holds lifetimes of royal tales, exploring China’s past and its influence on the present. For 600 years the Forbidden City was a symbol of power and intrigue, a holy place for the emperor alone. Today it can be freely explored by foot. Or for those more interested in the nitty-gritty, 1.5 million artefacts have been collected, documented and are on display in the nearby Palace Museum.

With some areas still locked away due to restoration, the final secret that awakens the Indiana Jones inside every traveller has remained tightly sealed. The doors to the treasured Qianlong Garden have remained locked since the last Emperor retreated from the Forbidden City in 1924. In the Qing dynasty, the fourth emperor built this private space and ruled it was to never be touched, even after his death. Eighteenth century ornaments, precious jade sculptures and silk wall hangings have been left alone for hundreds of years just waiting to be discovered. While it was decreed that the garden would never see the light of day, efforts to restore the space and reveal it to the public began in 2008, and it’s planned to be revealed in the next few years.

1 24

BEIJING

AN OPEN DOOR

For a palace that remained essentially empty and steeped in intrigue for some 600 years, seeing the sea of thousands of daily visitors meander through the grounds is an unnatural sight. Originally defined by strict rituals and protocol, the palace represented a sort of holy, untouchable domain on earth. This ethereal, private city was the solitary home to two entire dynasties of imperial rule, and today it still holds that same awe and majesty.

Exploring this fortress can take hours.

While most of the buildings and gates are free to be explored, there is ongoing work to breath the life of the 24 emperors who called this home back into its walls. With over a million documents considered national heritage and the historical importance of the site so clear, the city was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987. However, it wasn’t until 2005 that saw the commencement of a 16-year project to restore and repair the Forbidden City to the state it was in before 1912.

A quiet day at the Forbidden City will still see 20,000 to 30,000 visitors, with a daily cap of 80,000. These numbers seem staggering, but considering the size of the grounds, there’s always enough space to spread out and take your time discovering every detail.

125

SYDNEY

The Traveler’s Luxury Department Store 旅行者的奢华百货公司

Discover the world’s leading brands and unique Australian gifts.

Shop at the only duty and tax free department store in Sydney. We are located in The Rocks, close to the iconic Sydney Harbor Bridge and the Sydney Opera House.

Enjoy an authentic selection of world-class brands and the added assurance of our global warranty within the worldwide network of DFS stores.

FOR A LIMITED TIME, GET AN EXCLUSIVE TOTE WITH ANY PURCHASE WHEN YOU REFERENCE THIS ADVERTISEMENT.*

发现世界顶级品牌和澳大利亚特色旅游纪念品. 作为悉尼市中心唯一的免税品百货公司, 我们位于岩石区,毗邻悉尼海港大桥和悉尼歌剧院等标志性建筑. 世界级大牌的各色精美商品, 同时享有DFS环球购物保障,让您购物舒心 顺心 安心. 在有限时间内,凭此广告,任意消费可获赠购物袋一个.*

DFS GALLERIA SYDNEY, 155 GEORGE STREET, THE ROCKS | OPEN DAILY 11.30AM - 7.00PM *Available whilst stock lasts. One per customer. Brand exclusions apply. 活动时间有限,赠完即止. 每一位客人只限一个.部分品牌不参加活动.

Higher Life

HIGHER LIFE

SHOPPING  SPORT  FASHION  MOTORING  CELEBRITY

魅蓝四射

True blue The familiar porthole design, complete with the screwed down bezel, a mix of polished and satin finished King Gold paired with a sophisticated blue dial and alligator strap: the Hublot Classic Fusion King Gold Blue is just plain sexy. $39,900, hublot.com 延续经典融合系列的多层“三明治”结构以及表圈上 的“H型螺钉”，经抛光和拉丝处理，王金搭配蓝色表 盘与鳄鱼皮表带，此款宇舶经典融合王金蓝色腕表散 发着让人无法抗拒的魅蓝魅力。售价：$39,900澳元。

127

HIGHER LIFE

Most wanted

FROM COLLECTORS’ ITEMS TO CUSTOM-MADE DESIGNER PIECES

New space As Sydney Airport undergoes its revamp it welcomes high-end additions such as Hugo Boss and Max Mara.

This news comes after Tiffany and Co opened its doors to the new luxury precinct earlier this year. Stay tuned for more to come. sydneyairport.com.au 悉尼国际机场正进行翻新改造工程，继迎来 世界著名珠宝品牌蒂芙尼后再次引入多个高 端品牌包括雨果博斯（HUGO BOSS）和麦丝 玛拉（MAX MARA）。其后将会有更多品牌 进驻悉尼机场，大家拭目以待吧。

SMART CASUAL Athleisure, sporteluxe, whatever you want to label the style there’s no denying it has taken the fashion world by storm. Never has it been more socially acceptable to pair your suit with designer (a given) sneakers. $950, au.burberry.com

A HARDY EFFORT Hardy Brothers Jewellers have been providing Australians with exceptionally crafted jewels featuring the world’s best diamonds since 1853. A perfect example is this Platinum and Yellow Gold 6.19ct Cushion Cut Yellow Diamond Ring. $POA, hardybrothers.com.au HARDY BROTHERS珠宝商自1953年以来采用世 上最高品质的钻石，为澳大利亚人精心制作顶级 饰品。这枚以6.19克拉垫形黄钻为主钻的铂金钻 戒便是出自他们家的杰作之一。售价：$POA。

128

运动休闲风、奢侈运动风，不管您是怎样去诠释 这种风格，它无疑已风靡全球的时尚界。西装搭 配设计师的休闲鞋— —这种穿搭从未被大众如 此接纳过。博柏利悠闲鞋售价：950澳元。

SMOOTH TRAVELLER Montblanc understand the urban traveller’s needs. There new leather goods range, the Urban Spirit Collection, has a streamlined design for optimal comfort and small storage solutions, to seamlessly go from office to gym to vacation. Available from September 2016, montblanc.com 万宝龙充分了解都市旅客的需求，全新推出新品皮 具系列——URBAN SPIRIT皮具，其流线型设计解 决小空间存储的难题，以及为用家带来无比的舒适 度。此系列能驾驭一切的场合，不论是办公还是健 身或是度假。2016年9月公开发售。

HIGHER LIFE

Pink ladies

TAKE FIVE 为您精选 DESIGNER SHADES 五款

With 45 years of experience in selecting the finest diamonds, Gregory produces custom-made jewellery pieces of the highest standard. Take this Natural pink and white diamond pendant, which can be made to a size that would best suit your décolletage. $POA, gregoryjewellers.com.au 拥 有4 5 年 挑 选 顶 级 钻 石 的 经 验，高 级 珠 宝 商 GREGORY为您精心定制最高品级的珠宝首饰。 这枚以天然粉钻和白钻打造的吊坠能根据您的 脖子来定制最适合您的大小尺寸。售价：$POA。

Of times past Longines makes the old new again with Heritage 1918. Calling on past models for inspiration, this timepiece features a dial found on pocket watches from the 1918 era and echoes the first braceletchronographs with its refined leather bracelet. $7,200, longines.com 浪琴为经典复刻系列再添杰作—— HERITAGE 1918复古腕表。浪琴从丰富的品 牌历史中找寻灵感，表盘设计参考1918年的 古董时计，并以第一款计时腕表为原型，配 以精制皮质手带。售价：7,200澳元。

Pearls of wisdom A contemporary take on classic pearl jewellery, the Kailis Pure Cuff features a 12-13mm untreated Australian South Sea Pearl that sits on a 925 sterling silver bangle. It comes in two sizes to ensure the perfect fit. $1,100, kailisjewellery.com.au 以现代风格演绎经典的珍珠首饰，KAILIS PURE CUFF手镯以925纯银打造, 镶嵌单 颗12-13毫米纯天然澳大利亚南洋珍珠。 手镯尺寸分两号。售价：1,100澳元。

1. Celine, $450, celine.com 2. Dolce & Gabbana, $3,960, dolcegabbana.com 3. Karen Walker, $389, karenwalker.com 4. Miu Miu, $560, miumiu.com 5. Prada, $390, prada.com 129

H I G H E R L I F E // M O T O R I N G

A rocking roller No matter how you interpret the phrase, going topless is always going to elicit looks. Sly glances from people who can’t resist a peek. Take the top down on the new Rolls-Royce Dawn though and you’ll be getting more attention than that. You’ll find yourself drawing a crowd.

The stunning convertible is the fourth offering from the British manufacturer’s slowly expanding range, joining the Phantom, Ghost and the Wraith coupe – on which this model is based.

However, if you find yourself talking to someone from Rolls-Royce (rolls-roycemotorcars.com), don’t make the mistake of calling this a Wraith with the roof sliced off – they’ll be quick to correct you.

In fact, as they lift their nose slightly, they’ll point out that 80 per cent of the body panels are unique compared to the dashing Wraith fastback. Nor is the cost comparable, with the almost-5.3-metre-long convertible priced from $749,000 on the road in Australia, making it $104,000 more expensive than the Wraith coupe.

Back to that crowd. Should you wish to escape its gaze, there’s plenty of power with which to make your exit. Under the bonnet is a twin-turbocharged 6.6-litre V12 that produces 420kW at 5250rpm and 780Nm at 1500rpm. In real terms, that means you can launch the 2,560kg convertible from 0-100kmh in 4.9 seconds, and it’ll only stop accelerating when it hits the electronically limited top speed of 250kmh.

The new Rolls-Royce has brains too. The Dawn features a satelliteaided transmission, which uses GPS data to look at the road ahead and select the best gear for what’s coming. Shifts are imperceptible as it keeps its eight gears pushing power through the back wheels.

Technology highlights inside the Dawn include a touch-sensitive rotary controller, intelligent single-command voice control, a 10.25-inch high-definition display screen, LED headlights with auto high beam dipping, head-up display and a heat detection system to warn drivers of pedestrians and animals potentially hidden from vision at night.

But why would you be out at night? This is a car in which to see and be seen. So press the button, allow your top to drop and let them stare.

After all, a thing of beauty is a joy forever.

Richard Ryan is an Australia-based journalist and car enthusiast.

130

SPECS Price From $749,000 drive away Length 5,285mm Weight 2,560kg Engine 6.6-litre twin-turbo V12 Power 420kW at 5250rpm Torque 780Nm at 1500rpm Transmission Eight-speed automatic, rear-wheel-drive Fuel use 14.2L/100km

英国汽车厂商劳斯莱斯追求至臻完美，多年 来只不急不缓地推出了幻影、古思特和魅影 三款特色车型，如今第四位新成员曜影敞篷 车则是在魅影的基础上发展而来的。 但是，千万不要在劳斯莱斯人面前说曜 影是敞篷版 魅影。他们会立刻纠正您的说 法，指出曜影车身板件的80%和魅影完全不 同。此外，两者的价格也相差甚远。这款车身 长达5.3米的敞篷车在澳大利亚的落地价为 749,000澳元起，比魅影高出104,000澳元。 曜影充沛的动力足以让您随心所欲地飞 驰而去。这款车型装配有强劲的6.6升V12双 涡轮增压发动机，在转速为5,250和1,500时 可分别达到420千瓦的最大功率和780牛顿· 米的最大扭矩。 这意味着，这款重达2,560公斤的敞篷豪 车百公里加速时间仅为4.9秒，并可持续加速 至250公里/小时的最高电子限速。 全新劳斯莱斯曜影不仅外观惊艳，而且配 置丰富。特色卫星辅助传动系统使用GPS数 据分析前方路况，继而选择8速变速箱的最 佳档位。动力经由后轮轻松传达，档位变换 极致平稳。 曜影内部也充盈着大量技术亮点，包括 触碰感应旋钮式控制器、智能单命令语音控 制、10.25英寸高清显示屏、带有自动远光调 节功能的LED头灯以及平视显示。在夜里光 线不好的情况下，热源探测系统能够提醒司 机注意车辆周围可能出现的行人和动物。 但是为何要在夜里开这款车出门呢？曜 影注定是用来欣赏和享受他人羡慕的。只管 按下按钮，让车顶安静折起，接受路人艳羡 的注视吧。毕竟，美好的事物是人们永恒的 追求。

LEARNING IN RESIDENCE AT WESLEY

LEARNING ISN’T ALL IN THE MIND At Wesley, we recognise that students are intellectual, emotional, physical, social, cultural and spiritual beings.

That’s why our new Learning in Residence program is deliberately designed to enhance development across each of these dimensions.

Enrolments are now open with full-time and weekly boarding options available.

For further information please contact Admissions Manager, International and Learning in Residence, Carolyn Roney at carolyn.roney@wesleycollege.net or telephone + 61 3 8102 6617.

Elsternwick • Glen Waverley • St Kilda Road ABN: 38 994 068 473 CRICOS: 00354G

H I G H E R L I F E // W I N E

Ring in the reds Blame it on the French, but cabernet sauvignon remains the most popular wine grape variety in China despite the fact Chinese wine drinkers are exploring more different wines than ever before. While a recent Wine Intelligence survey found that 55 per cent of all Chinese urban upper-middle-class imported-wine drinkers drank cabernet sauvignon in the previous six months (down from 58 per cent the year before), the next closest variety is riesling, which was drank by 27 per cent of the same audience. Cabernet sauvignon, the key varietal behind most top-end wines from Bordeaux, will take some dethroning.

Historically it all makes sense. The massive rise in Chinese demand for Bordeaux wines and the stratospheric prices once paid in PRC for them – the inspiration behind the successful movie Red Obsession – was in large measure around the cabernet-based wines of Bordeaux’s left bank. Today in China, in a totally different cultural and economic environment, the allure of cabernet has persisted.

Australian cabernet, because it only rarely attracts the extreme prices of the top-level French, has become a viable and laudable alternative for those seeking to drink well in today’s China. The finest display a structure, elegance, longevity and level of complexity comparable to fine Bordeaux.

Three Australian wine regions stand above the others for cabernet and its related partners of merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. In order of importance at this very moment these are Margaret River, Coonawarra and the Yarra Valley. Margaret River has the largest collection of high-end labels, Coonawarra has the Wynns operation plus a small number of neighbours, while the Yarra Valley boasts a relatively small crowd of outstanding cabernet producers.

To the right is one from each region, which can be found in China.

Jeremy Oliver is an Australia-based wine-writer, presenter and critic.

1

2

3

“Chinese wine drinkers are exploring more different wines than ever before” TRY 1. Peccavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Margaret River) A heady, faintly earthy bouquet of fresh cassis, dark plums and cherries knit tightly with smoky, cedary oak, gravelly undertones and bright floral scents.

Underpinned by a crunchy, grainy backbone, its perfectly ripened flavours of black and red berries are backed by cigarboxy oak.

2. Bowen Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Penetrative aromas of cassis, mulberries, dark plums and fresh cedar/vanilla oak reveal dusty, faintly herbal nuances, while its palate-staining presence of small black and red berries is framed by an exceptional spine of drying, chalky tannins that culminate in a graphite-like minerality.

3. Yeringberg Yeringberg Cabernet Blend 2014 Opulent perfume of violets, cassis, dark plums and fresh cedary and faintly cigarboxy oak is both pure and briary.

Supremely long and elegant, its length of dark fruit is underpinned by a firm spine and soaks up its handsome measure of French oak.

132

得益于法国葡萄酒在中国的风靡，尽管中国 葡萄酒消费者比以往 更加愿意探索不同种 类 的葡 萄 酒，赤霞珠 仍然位 列中国最 受欢 迎葡萄品种首位。葡萄酒智情机构（WI NE INTELLIGENCE）在最近的一项调查中发现， 近6个月以来，中国中高档进口葡萄酒的城市 消费者中55%选用了赤霞珠（较去年的58%， 有所下降），紧随其后的雷司令在同样的消费 者群体中选用率为27%。赤霞珠是酿制大部 分高档波尔多葡萄酒的主要葡萄品种，在中 国仍将高居王座。 这一切有着深刻的历史渊源。波尔多葡萄 酒曾在中国掀起阵阵狂潮，并在内地和香港 创下高昂售价。大获成功的澳大利亚葡萄酒 纪录片《红色情结》正是以此为灵感拍摄的， 而其中大部分都是以赤霞珠为主要原料的波 尔多左岸葡萄酒。如今，中国的文化和经济环 境发生了翻天覆地的变化，赤霞珠却仍旧魅 力不减。 澳大利亚赤霞珠极少像顶级法国葡萄酒 那样昂贵得高不可攀，凭借其亲民价格和卓 越品质受到当今中国优质葡萄酒消费者的青 睐。最顶级的澳大利亚赤霞珠的结构、酒体 优雅度、窖藏寿命和复杂度，足以媲美优质 波尔多葡萄酒。 澳 大利亚有三个 最 负 盛名的葡萄酒产 区，盛产赤霞珠和常常与之搭配混酿的葡 萄品种 — —梅洛、品丽珠、味而多和马尔 贝克。按照当前的声誉排名，这三个产区 依次是玛格丽特河(MARGARET RIVER)， 库纳瓦拉(COONAWARRA)和亚拉河谷 (YARRA VALLEY)。到目前为止，玛格丽特 河产区云集了最多高端葡萄酒品牌，库纳瓦 拉产区拥有杰出的酝思酒庄（WYNNS）和 少量其它成就斐然的酒庄，亚拉河谷的杰 出赤霞珠生产商则相对较少。 以下为您介绍的三款葡萄酒分别来自这 三个产区，在中国均有销售，敬请品鉴。

长安代表

长安镇新安社区横增路莲湖路口莲湖商务大廈8楼

海南代表

海南省海口市龙华区金花路139号

H I G H E R L I F E / / FA S H I O N 1

2

3

4

5

Missoni Spring 2017 Menswear

6

Wild west

7

8

9

10

Wide brim hats, loose shirts, neck scarves – who says adults can’t dress up as cowboys?

1. Diesel, $148, diesel.com 2. Dries van Noten, $450, driesvannoten.be 3. Mulberry $1,954, mulberry.com 4. Saint Laurent, $385, ysl.com/au 5. Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus, $904, comme-des-garcons.com 6. Polo Ralph Lauren $238, ralphlauren.com.au 7. Gucci, $ 1,025, gucci.com/au 8. Louis Vuitton, $3,950, au.louisvuitton.com 9. Balenciaga, $483, balenciaga.com/au 10. Mulberry, $320, mulberry.com 134

H I G H E R L I F E / / FA S H I O N

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Alberta Ferretti Spring 2016 RTW

8

Down to earth

9

9

10

11

Inspired by nature, designers turn to neutral tones and textured fabrics 1. Eugenia Kim, $493, eugeniakim.com 2. J.Crew, $176, jcrew.com 3. Bottega Veneta, $486, bottegaveneta.com/au 4. Jennifer Behr, $185, jenniferbehr. com 5.Ippolita, $4,467, ippolita.com 6. Frame Denim, $753, frame-store.com 7. Kayu, $184, kayudesign.com 8. ChloĂŠ, $2,430, chloe.com 9. Equipment, $358, equipmentfr.com 10. Cutler and Gross, $632, cutlerandgross.com 11. Aquazzura, $425, aquazzura.com 136

Natural Attraction

Sydney 60 Pitt Street T. 02 9247 6344

Melbourne

HIGHER VIEW

119 Swanston Street T. 03 9662 3524

www.nationalopal.com

HIGHER VIEW

H I G H E R L I F E // F O C U S

B ur

g Botte

a Ve

neta

, $4,8

otte 1 0, b

g a ve

neta

.com

ber

ry $

3,8

5 0,

au .

bur

ber

r y.c

om

/au

PRODUCT FOCUS

华丽小包

Small fortune

Gu

cc

i, $

3 ,9

60

,g

uc

c i .c

om

/au

They say big things come in small packages, and they aren’t wrong.

Designers are shying away from big and brash, instead opting for petite sizes and opulent materials

138

L

g on

ch

am

p,

, OA $P

hu

nt

th lea

er.

co

m.

au

俗语有话“浓缩的都是精品”是对的。 设计师们从霸气的大包转移到袖珍的 尺寸以及采用各种华丽的材料

H I G H E R L I F E // B E A U T Y

Balmain Spring 2016 RTW

Lanolips It began when Kirsten Carriol, Lanolips founder, couldn’t find the perfect lip balm. Until she remembered the feel of lanolin sheep’s wool from her Grandparents’ sheep farm in South Australia: a family ritual, that now, the world shares. Lanolips’ range of products includes lip balms, hand creams and moisturisers. Tinted Balm SPF30 $13.95, lanolips.com/au 柯 尔 斯 顿 ·夏 利 豪（ K I R S T E N CARRIOL）寻找完美唇膏而不得，直 到她回忆起在南澳祖父母的牧羊场上 轻触羊毛脂的感觉，LANOLIPS的一 切就这样开始了。LANOLIPS产品系列 涵盖彩色润唇膏、护手霜和滋润露。 彩色润唇膏SPF30售价：13.95澳元。

Aesop

澳洲制造

Made in Australia

澳大利亚的健康及美妆出口产品在当地和国际市场广 受赞誉，以下为您介绍一些最为出色的代表之作 Here are the country’s best health and beauty exports the global market can’t get enough of...

D&X Founded only last year, D&X are newcomers to the health and lifestyle market.

Their products are packed with natural ingredients that are sourced Down Under.

For women, the abundant supply of fresh produce is taken advantage of in their High Strength Cranberry and Organic Spirulina capsules. dandx.com.au 去年刚刚创立的D&X是健康和生活方式市场中的新 秀。产品选用澳大利亚特有的原材料，萃取丰富天然成分。男士营养品建 议购买袋鼠精华营养胶囊，富含高浓度袋鼠肉提炼精华。女士则建议购买 高效蔓越莓精华胶囊和有机螺旋藻胶囊，使您魅力无限。 140

Arguably one of Australia’s greatest beauty exports, Aesop has now set up shop in New York, Paris, London and Tokyo. If you had to choose just one product to purchase, make sure it’s the Parsley Seed Anti Oxidant Facial Hydrating Cream. $80 for 60mL, aesop.com/au 创立于墨尔本的AE SO P以植物为原料，可 谓是澳大利亚最好的美妆出口品牌，在世界 大多数首都城市均设有专卖店，无论是纽约、 巴黎、伦敦，甚至东京，您都可以购买到AESOP品牌的产 品。AESOP产品种类丰富，秀发护理、肌肤护理及香水一应 俱全。如果只能选择购买一种产品，那么香芹籽抗氧化保湿 面霜绝对是您的不二之选。60毫升售价：80澳元。

KORA Organics Who isn’t envious of Miranda Kerr’s luminous skin? And being the down-to-earth Aussie that Miranda is, she has let everyone in on her little secret: organic skincare.

The supermodel’s range of products are certified organic and are designed to nourish, replenish and hydrate the skin. koraorganics.com 谁不羡慕米兰达·可儿（MIRANDA KERR） 的亮 泽 肌 肤 ？米 兰 达 是 地 地 道 道 的澳 洲 人，她 毫 不 吝 啬 地 与 所 有人 分享 肌 肤 光 泽 透 亮 的 秘 密 — — 有 机 护 肤 品 。KO R A ORGANICS是超级名模米兰达的自创品 牌，精心设计的产品均获得有机认证，可充 分滋养、修复皮肤，补充丰富水分。

H I G H E R L I F E // B E A U T Y

Michael Kors Collection Spring 2016 RTW

Brighter days ahead 亮丽明天 Inject luminosity into your skin with this hydrating Eve Lom Brightening Cream. The hydra-cream is enriched with Rose Otto Oil to rejuvenate skin and fight against premature ageing and dark spots.

Complexion is left looking radiant and more evenly toned. $162, evelom.com EVE LOM的新款产品极致亮白乳霜盈润保湿，为肌肤 注入亮白光泽。这款保湿功效强大的乳霜富含奥图玫 瑰精油（ROSE OTTO OIL），能够有效抗击衰老和黑 斑，令肌肤重新焕发青春活力，肤色光彩照人而且色调 更为均匀。售价：162澳元。

Chic scent 雅致之香

彩妆热话

Beauty buzz

新款化妆品火热上市，即刻拥有 The latest beauty products that you’ll want to get your hands on Eye lift 修复眼霜

No need to go under the knife to get rid of those story-telling lines around the eyes. La Mer promises to visibly support the architecture of the eye and brow area with their The Lifting Eye Serum. The sea botanicals promote the natural production of elastin to help reduce the visible effects. $330, cremedelamer.com.au 想要摆脱岁月在眼角留下的痕迹？不必忍受切肤之 痛！海蓝之谜（LA MER）的提拉紧致眼部精华露有 力支撑眉眼肌肤，让改变显而易见。内含海洋植物 精萃，能够促进肌肤自然生长弹性蛋白，有效减少 可见皱纹。售价：330澳元。 1 42

From the minimalist, blush-coloured bottle to the name, Narciso Poudrée (French for powder), this perfume is understatedly bold and feminine for the ultra-chic woman. A smooth floral blend of white jasmine petals and Bulgarian rose is combined with signature woody notes of black and white cedars, adding a warmth to the scent. 50ML for $118, narcisorodriguez.com 无论是极简风格的粉红色香水瓶，还是带有法语特 色的名字NARCISO POUDRÉE（法语意为“粉末”） ，这款香水对于时尚雅致的女性而言，低调而又时刻 散发着鲜明的女性特质。柔和的香水气味融合了白色 茉莉花瓣和保加利亚玫瑰的花香，并调和黑雪松和 白雪松的木质气味，流露出温暖的 感觉。50毫升售价：118澳元。

自然馈赠

Nature’s gift Antipodes Hosanna H20 Intensive Skin-Plumping Serum is packed with natural ingredients to help target pigmentation and restore even tone. Waiwera mineral-blessed water helps restore essential moisture while Kiwifruit exfoliating enzymes renew your skin. $48.99, antipodesnature.us ANTIPODES品牌的夜间强效补水修复精华富含 天然成分，能够在睡梦中修复日间受损肌肤。 这款修复精华融合新西兰黑醋栗（富含人体 必需脂肪酸）、喜马拉雅枸杞（含有19种氨基 酸）以及南太平洋木槿花等原料，能够有 效活化肌肤、提亮肤色。 售价：48.99澳元。

Aqua Dining offers a quintessential Sydney dining experience with unrivalled harbour views that sweep from Luna Park to the world famous Sydney Opera House.

Aqua Dining is open for lunch & dinner 7 days.

02 9964 9998 Cnr Paul & Northcliff Streets Milsons Point NSW 2061 reservations@aquadining.com.au aquadining.com.au

MINIMAL MUSE

HIGHER LIFE

144

简约之韵 Tailored silhouettes are softened with feminine detailing in the Hugo Boss Resort 2017 collection 女性化的细节柔和了剪裁精准的 服装轮廓，成为雨果博斯（HUGO BOSS）2017 早春度假系列的风尚

HIGHER LIFE

All looks available from Hugo Boss, hugoboss.com

145

HIGHER LIFE

146

HIGHER LIFE

All looks available from Hugo Boss, hugoboss.com

1 47

HIGHER LIFE

148

HIGHER LIFE

All looks available from Hugo Boss, hugoboss.com

149

HIGHER LIFE

现代浪漫情怀

modern romantic Erdem has a talent for making the modernromantic wardrobe wearable, season after season – and Resort 2017 is no different... 设计师艾尔丹姆（ERDEM）擅长把现代浪 漫风格融入到日常着装，她创立的同名品牌 ERDEM 2017 度假系列延续唯美浪漫的情怀

All looks available from Erdem, erdem.com

150

HIGHER LIFE

1 51

HIGHER LIFE

152

HIGHER LIFE

All looks available from Erdem, erdem.com

153

HIGHER LIFE

All looks available from Erdem, erdem.com

154

HIGHER LIFE

155

AUDEMA RS PIGUET

“That’s the true beauty of Audemars Piguet, the brand has a truly unique ability to transcend time and style” Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked

156

AUDEMA RS PIGUET

引领钟表时尚

AHEAD OF TIME Constantina Pilatos recounts the story of Audemars Piguet and its most famous timepiece, the Royal Oak

君士坦丁·皮拉徒斯（Constantina Pilatos）跟我们 讲述爱彼的故事以及其赫赫有名的皇家橡树系列

A

udemars Piguet has been producing fine timepieces for the past 141 years. In fact, having never left the hands of its founding families, it’s the oldest watch manufacturer of its kind. While it’s certainly a company steeped in tradition, it’s also the kind of brand that has been the subject of rap lyrics. Its pieces are often flashed on the wrists of some of the modern-day greats, such as Jay-Z, Wiz Khalifa and The Game (to name just a few).

You see, that’s the true beauty of Audemars Piguet: the brand has a truly unique ability to transcend time and style. So how exactly does a brand that has been producing watches since the late 1800s evolve and stay relevant in an industry that’s changing by the minute? Claude Emmenegger, creative director of Audemars Piguet, says it has a lot to do with staying true to their origins.

过

去141年间，爱彼（Audemars Piguet）一直致力于精密时计的 制作，并且始终由其创始家族苦 心经营，是历史最为悠久的腕表制造商。 爱彼虽然有着悠久的传统，但也常常出现 在说唱歌词中，深受现今一些说唱大腕的 喜爱，Jay-Z、维兹·卡利法（WizKhalifa） 和The Game均位列其中。 这就是爱彼的真正动人之处——超越时 间和风格的独特魅力。作为始于19世纪末的 腕表品牌，爱彼究竟是如何在这样一个瞬息 万变行的行业中发展演变、紧跟时代步伐的 呢？爱彼创意总监克劳德·艾蒙格（Claude Emmenegger）表示，很大一部分原因在 于爱彼始终不渝地坚守着自己的本源。 “爱彼是一个家族企业，始终由其创始 家族拥有，从未改变，”克劳德说， “这就 是爱彼的根基，我们制作的腕表均源自于 此。企业所处的地理位置对爱彼的部分风 FAMILY TRADITION 格产生了重要影响。自从创立以来，爱彼始 “This is a family company, owned by the same family 终不曾离开汝拉山谷（vallée de Joux）。 and that has never changed,” says Claude. “That’s what 在这里，大自然是不可逃避的存在。这里 our company is based on. Anything we produce stems 的气候、季节、漫长的冬季、恶劣的环境， from this. Part of Audemars Piguet’s style is influenced 都对爱彼的风格有所影响。” heavily by where the company is located. It has 1875年，就在克劳德提及的瑞士小 remained in vallée de Joux since it was established. Here 镇上，时年23岁的裘勒·路易·奥德玛 the presence of nature is inescapable. The interaction （Jules-Louis Audemars）邀请儿时伙 with climate, with the seasons, the long winters, the 伴、年仅21岁的爱德华·奥古斯特·皮盖 harshness, that all affects what Audemars Piguet is.” （Edward-Auguste Piguet）设计并制 Back in 1875, the brand was founded in the Swiss 作腕表机芯，从此开启了爱彼的漫长历 town Claude speaks of. When 23-year-old Jules-Louis 程。这对挚友凭借精湛技艺在当地获得了 Audemars asked his childhood friend, Edward> Auguste Piguet, then only 21, to establish and produce > 巨大成功。 157

AUDEMA RS PIGUET

watch movements, the brand was founded. The two friends were the best at what they were doing and found great success with locals.

From the beginning, Jules-Louis and EdwardAuguste showed an interest in complex mechanisms.

And thanks to their watchmaking family heritage, they had developed all the necessary skillsets.

“Complicated movements have always been a part of Audemars Piguet,” Claude says. “Some years we produce more, or less, than we usually do, but they’re always there. They were in the minds of the founders from the beginning and it has not once left the brand.”

Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet split their work. Jules-Louis produced and assembled movements while Edward-Auguste ensured the completed movements were correctly regulated.

Thus, Jules-Louis started producing component parts for movements and Edward-Auguste became a finisher, one of the top jobs in the watchmaking industry (NB: a finisher is a watchmaker who performs the final regulation of the timepiece and puts the finishing touches to the escapements).

ROYAL TREATMENT

Later, the roles changed, but the quality remained and can still be found in current collections. The brand has 158

从一开始，裘勒·路易和爱德华·奥古 斯特就显示出对复杂机械的浓厚兴趣。得 益于制作腕表的家族传承，二人掌握了制 作复杂机械需要的全部技能。 克劳德说， “复杂机芯始终在爱彼占有 一席之地。有的年份，我们制作的复杂机 芯会比平常多一些，有的年份则少一些，但 是每年都会有。这一观念从品牌创立之初 就得到创始人的重视，从来不曾放弃。” 裘勒·路易和爱德华·奥古斯特分工明 确。裘勒·路易制造并组装机芯，爱德华· 奥古斯特则负责对组装完成的机芯进行调 试。此后，裘勒·路易开始负责制作机芯 组件，而爱德华·奥古斯特承担了制表行 业里最高端的工作之一——润饰（负责润 饰的制表师对时计进行最终调试，并为擒 纵系统做最终润饰）。虽然后来各人的角 色有所改变，但腕表品质却始终如一，如 今的系列依然如此。长久以来，爱彼以卓 尔不凡的腕表久享盛名，皇家橡树（Royal Oak）系列或许正是其最完美的体现。 克劳德最先承认皇家橡树系列已经成 为爱彼的代名词。 “每当人们想到爱彼腕 表，他们就会想到皇家橡树系列。有些人 知道皇家橡树系列，但却不知道其背后的 品牌，可见这一系列多么具有标志性。”

Left: Audemars Piguet watchmaker meticulously working on a timepiece Centre: An array of Royal Oak models on display Right: Audemars Piguet’s creative director Claude Emmenegger at SIHH 2016

AUDEMA RS PIGUET

always been known for producing exceptional pieces – probably none more so than the Royal Oak. Claude is the first to admit that the Royal Oak is synonymous with the brand. “When people think Audemars Piguet, they think Royal Oak. Some people know the Royal Oak without even knowing the brand behind the design, that’s how iconic it has become.”

As successful as the Royal Oak is, if we rewind 40-odd years the initial response to the timepiece wasn’t all that positive. On the eve of the 1971 Basel fair, Audemars Piguet’s managing director at the time, Georges Golay, called watch designer Gerald Genta requesting the seemingly impossible. At 4pm Golay made the call, explaining to Genta that the Italian market was expecting a unprecedented steel watch by the next morning. It was to be a sports watch for all occasions with the most beautiful finishes ever seen.

While Genta was the most famous watch designer at the time, having previously created successful watches for Omega (Constellation) and Patek Phillipe (Golden Ellipse), even for him this was no easy feat.

Refusing to admit defeat, as the sun rose Genta had invented the Royal Oak. Inspired by a traditional diver’s helmet, this revolutionary steel watch was characterised by an > octagonal shaped bezel secured by eight visible

“爱彼的真正动人之处——超越时 间和风格的独特魅力” 虽然皇家橡树系列大获成功，但如果我 们把时间倒退至40多年前，人们对于这款 腕表的反应并不都是那么积极。1971年巴 塞尔国际珠宝钟表博览会（Basel fair）前 夕，时任爱彼总裁的乔治·格雷（Georges Golat）要求腕表设计师杰罗·尊达 （Gerald Genta）设计出一款看似不可 能的表款。下午4点，格雷拨通了尊达的电 话，告诉他意大利市场将在第二天上午推 出一款史无前例的精钢腕表。这将是有史 以来润饰最为完美的一款运动腕表。 尽管尊达是当时最著名的手表设计师， 已经成功打造了欧米茄（星座系列）和百 达翡丽（Golden Ellipse系列）腕表，但是 对他来说，设计这样的表款也绝非易事。 尊达不甘于失败，第二天清晨便创造出了 皇家橡树系列。 这款革命性的精钢腕表的设计灵感源

自传统的潜水员头盔，饰有八枚裸露的六 角形金色螺丝的八角形表圈、一览无余的 防水垫圈以及独特的“TAPISSERIE”蓝色 小格纹装饰表盘，个性十足。考虑到腕表 的设计灵感源自潜水员的黄铜头盔，因此 腕表的命名也应该与航海相关。爱彼将其 以英国皇家海军的一艘舰艇——皇家橡树 命名，腕表的八角形表圈与“皇家橡树号” 上的八角形舷窗正好吻合。 这款腕表的售价为3,300瑞士法郎，比 百达翡丽金表还高，而且是劳力士潜航者 型腕表的十倍。这一定价无疑非常大胆， 高级手表不再依赖于贵重金属而享有盛 誉。正是腕表的设计、制作精度以及机芯 品质让其拥有如此高的售价。 但是皇家橡树系列并没有马上获得成 功，它一度成为人们猛烈抨击的目标—— 颠覆性的设计、一览无余的垫圈和螺丝、 > 159

AUDEMA RS PIGUET

hexagonal gold screws, visible water resistance gasket and a dial adorned with exclusive blue petit tapisserie motif. Considering that the design theme was inspired by a diver’s brass helmet, the name itself had to be nauticalrelated. Audemars Piguet chose Royal Oak, which came from the name of a series of eight vessels (remember that the bezel is octagonal) of Britain’s Royal Navy.

Introduced at the price of 3,300 Swiss Francs, this never-before-seen steel timepiece was more expensive than a gold Patek Philippe and 10 times the cost of a Rolex Submariner. The message was certainly bold: haute horlogerie could come up with prestigious timepieces without necessarily relying on precious metals. From this point forward, it was the design, the precision of the execution, and the quality of the movement that counted.

But they weren’t instantly successful. The Royal Oak was the target of fierce criticism. Disruptive design, visible gasket and screws, integrated bracelet, exorbitant price tag – many detractors predicted Audemars Piguet would be bankrupt in a couple of months. It’s not the first time critics were wrong.

“It was the design, the precision of the execution, and the quality of the movement that counted”

DOUBLE UP

Today, demand for the Royal Oak is unceasing.

At this year’s SIHH Audemars Piguet presented an array of Royal Oak models to the market, the most noteworthy being the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked. “This watch glorifies what Audemars Piguet has been able to maintain,” Claude says. “Closely linked to the icon, it still has something completely different inside it: a technological innovation highlighting the work done by the watchmakers.” What Claude speaks of is a world-first – there are the two balance wheels, each with its own hairspring, mounted on the one common staff. The result of this is improved precision and stability, surpassing the chronometry of a tourbillon and negating any potential poising errors. There’s also the skeletonisation.

“Back in the day, other people were doing skeletonisation on the same level as Audemars Piguet, but if you look around today there aren’t that many left,” says Claude. “We push the boundaries quite far.

There are no shortcuts. There are a lot of tricky angles in this piece that modern technology can’t be used to achieve and this is where the watchmakers craft comes into play. We keep pushing the boundaries.” This is a watch has enthusiast appeal and a practical-minded approach to novelty. But if you want to ball as hard as Jay-Z, it’s going to cost you. The steel version will set you back $57,800 and the pink gold $100,700. There’s no price limit on style.

Top left to right: Royal Oak Dual Time 39mm, Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin Openworked 41mm, Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked 44mm

160

与表壳一体成型的表带、高昂的价格。很 多反对者预测爱彼将在几个月内破产。值 得庆幸的是，这不是批评者首次（也不是会 是最后一次）出错。 时至今日，人们对于皇家橡树系列的追 求一如既往。今年的日内瓦国际高级钟表 展（SIHH），爱彼展示了一系列皇家橡树系 列表款，包括最受注目的皇家橡树系列双 摆轮镂空腕表。 “这款腕表将爱彼一直以 来秉承的传统发扬光大，”克劳德说道， “ 虽然秉承典范，但其中还是有一些完全不 同的地方。技术的创新为钟表匠人的工艺 增光添色。”克劳德所说的正是世界首创 的双摆轮设计——双摆轮游丝固定在同一

轴线上，以提高腕表走时的精确性和稳定 性，从而超越陀飞轮测时精度并且避免可 能出现的偏重误差。并且，该款腕表同样 为镂空设计。 “想当年，其他人和爱彼做着一样的镂 空设计，但现如今，很少有人这样做了，” 克劳德说道， “我们拓展出无限可能，而且 这没有捷径。这款腕表遇到的很多棘手问 题都不能用现代技术解决，只能依靠钟表 匠人的手工技艺才能得以实现。我们一直 在突破极限。”该款腕表以新奇实用的设 计受到很多腕表爱好者的追捧。如果想和 Jay-Z一样，那么您就要破费了。精钢款售 价：57,800澳元。时尚是无价之宝。

HIGHER LIFE

MY HIGHER LIFE

Olivar Musson We catch up with Olivar Musson, creative director of Musson Jewellers, one of Sydney’s most prestigious bespoke jewellers. He chats all things jewellery, Sydney and family... 马森珠宝是悉尼最负盛名的定制珠宝商之一。这次我们请 到的是其常务董事奧利·马森（OLIVAR MUSSON），话题 涉及珠宝、悉尼和家庭的一切……

What is it exactly that draws you to jewellery design? 珠宝设计有什么吸引您的地方？

I have a passion for the sculptural element of jewellery design. I believe if I wasn’t a jewellery designer I would be an architect.

I’m passionate about light and reflection and look to incorporate these elements into all my designs.

There’s a longevity to fine jewellery that appeals to me. We use jewellery to celebrate our most important moments and relationships in life. I like how transportable jewellery is and how intimate it is. With our favourite jewellery, we wear it everyday and I cherish that I play a part in these moments in people’s lives. 我非常喜爱珠宝设计的雕塑元素。我相信，如果 不能成为珠宝设计师，我就会成为一名建筑师。 我对珠宝的光泽和色彩十分着迷，希望把这些 元素融入到我所有的设计中。 高级珠宝的“长寿”特性对我也很有吸引力。 我们喜欢用珠宝来庆祝生命中最重要的时刻， 送给最重要的人，珠宝所表达的含义和亲密关系 令人称羡。人们每天都佩戴着最喜欢的珠宝，而 能够为人们生活的重要时刻添加一份色彩，我非 常喜欢这种感觉。

Is what you do unique in Australia? 您的珠宝设计是澳大利亚独具特色的吗？

Definitely. We design and manufacture, in Sydney, 90 per cent of the creations you view in our boutiques.

Our pieces are contemporary, yet timeless.

I also try to use rare and beautiful Australian gems as often as I can, particularly rare 162

Argyle Pink Diamonds and Australian Yellow Diamonds. I have travelled the world extensively and visited many international gem fairs and I can honestly say Australian quality in gemstones and manufacture is second to none. 当然。我们在悉尼设计和创作的作品占到精品店 的90%。 我们的作品虽然属于当代作品，却是永恒的 经典。同时，我会尽我所能尝试使用珍稀美丽的 澳大利亚宝石，尤其是阿盖尔粉钻和澳大利亚 黄钻。我曾周游世界各地，参加过许多国际宝石 展览会。毫不谦虚地说，澳大利亚的宝石质量和 制造工艺在世界上是首屈一指的。

harbour is a wonderful thing – it’s cleansing and gives you a freedom of space. 我是悉尼土生土长的，对她的爱没有任何缘由。 我认为悉尼是世界上最美丽的城市之一。生活在 这样一个美丽的海港城市是件美妙的事情，她不 但干净整洁，而且给了你自由的空间。

How do you like to explore new places when you travel?

What does the future hold for Musson Jewellers and yourself?

旅行的时候，您喜欢去探索新的地方吗？

未来有什么计划？

When I was younger travel was purely for adventure. Now I have a young family, travel needs to be for quality family time as well as relaxation. I want to explore new places and architecture, so much inspiration comes from immersing yourself within different cultures and environments.

This is an important year for us. We’re currently designing a new website in English and Mandarin, and have many new collections which will coincide with its launch. In the long-term our eyes are set on an international boutique, so as to allow our global clientele greater access to our creations. Also, many of our clients are insistent that we open a boutique in Shanghai or Beijing, so travel is on the cards.

年轻的时候，旅行纯粹是为了探险。现在我有了 自己的小家，旅行就需要考虑质量，要让所有家 庭成员都能够放松。我喜欢探索新的地方和建 筑，因为把自己沉浸在不同的文化和环境中能够 获得很多的灵感。

What do you love about Sydney? 您热爱悉尼的什么？

I am Sydney born and bred. I love Sydney.

I believe Sydney is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Living on such a beautiful

这一年对我们来说很重要。我们目前正在设计 一个新的网站（英文和中文），并有许多新的产 品系列将与网站一起推出。我们的一个长期目 标是开一家国际精品店，以便我们全球的客户 能够更多地接触到我们的作品。同时，很多客户 坚持让我们在上海或北京开一家精品店，所以 有可能会去这两个地方。

© Sirpa Air - Rafale - Dassault Aviation

NEW BR 03-94 AEROGT CHRONOGRAPH · 42 mm VIC Bell & Ross Boutique, The Block Arcade, 03 9650 7421 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Emporium Melbourne, 03 9639 6175 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Westfield Doncaster, 03 9840 6304 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Chadstone Shopping Centre (Opening September) NSW Gregory Jewellers, Sydney, 02 9233 3510 | Gregory Jewellers, Bondi Junction, 02 9389 8822 Hardy Brothers, Sydney, 02 8262 3100 | Hardy Brothers, Chatswood, 02 8423 2800 | HEINEMANN Tax & Duty Free at Sydney Airport QLD 8th Avenue Watch Co., Pacific Fair Shopping Centre | Wallace Bishop, Brisbane, 07 3625 8100 WA Hardy Brothers, Perth, 08 6318 1000

IWC PILOT. ENGINEERED FOR ORIGINALS.

Join the conversation on #B_Original.

Big Pilot’s Watch. Ref. 5009: Leaning heavily on the first Pilot’s Watches and at the same time an original: like its illustrious predecessors, the latest Big Pilot’s Watch master fully combines precision technology with functional design. The largest calibre developed and built in IWC’s workshops builds up a seven-day power reserve in next to no time. The triangular index positioned below the chapter ring and the slender five-minute indices take the dial closer to the 1940 original. Small wonder, then, that the same thing

goes for the watch as it owner: originality is all about character.

I WC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N .

Mechanical movement, Pellaton automatic winding, IWC-manufactured 51111, 7-day power reserve with display, Date display, Central hacking seconds, Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields, Glass secured against displacement by drop in air pressure, Special back engraving, Water-resistant 6 bar, Diameter 46 mm, Calfskin strap by Santoni

FINEST WATC HES AND J EWELLERY SINC E 19 42

JFAR RENPRIC E.COM.AU 80 C ASTLER EAGH ST, SYD NEY, AUSTRA L IA 02 9231 3299 • INFO@JFARR ENPR IC E.COM . AU