Higher View - Issue 17 by Citrus Media

在秘密桃源里放松身心

公园城市

Sep – Nov 2016

浙江隐藏的宝藏北京最灵动的公园

#17

Shanghai bites

INT ER N ATIO N A L CHEF S B R IN G F L AVOUR TO THE MEG A CIT Y

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Discover the world’s leading brands and unique Australian gifts. Shop at the only duty and tax free department store in Sydney. 发现世界顶级品牌和澳大利亚特色旅游纪念品. 作为悉尼市中心唯一的免税品百货公司,我们位于岩石区, 毗邻悉尼海港大桥和悉尼歌剧院等标志性建筑。世界级大牌的各色精美商品,同时享有DFS环球购物保障, 让您购物舒心顺心安心凭此广告, 消费满199元即可领取价值$45元精美旅行套装一份。^

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géométrique 在极致华丽与亲密无间的刻度间探索宇宙的奥妙，这就是几何系列珠宝。

(Géométrique Series)

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稀世珍寶彰顯尊貴唯獨粉紅金伯利粉紅金伯利 (Pink Kimberley) 是一個典雅悅目的首飾品牌，採用優質精緻的白鑽石和澳大利亞天然粉紅鑽石精雕細琢而成。這些名貴的粉紅鑽石位於西澳大利亞金伯利地區的阿蓋爾鑽石礦，是世界上獨一無二，極為稀有的珍貴鑽石。 Pink Kimberley jewellery is crafted from an exquisite blend of white diamonds and natural Australian pink diamonds from the Argyle Diamond Mine, located in the East Kimberley region of Western Australia. These pink diamonds are beyond rare and amongst the most precious diamonds in the world. A coveted Argyle Pink Diamond Certificate accompanies all Pink Kimberley pieces containing a centre stone greater than 0.15ct.

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CAIRNS

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PERTH

INTRODUCTION

中国驻悉尼旅游办事处

欢迎 Welcome

From CNTO, Sydney

From China Eastern

精

致美食、自然奇观、悠久历史和独一无二的体验— — 在中国，每个人都能得偿所愿。本期杂志包含了您感兴趣的所有话题：我们采访了最新来到上海开设餐厅的国际主厨（第 68-77页），为您呈现独家美食；想要逃离喧嚣的城市，享受一个静谧舒心的周末，我们带您探访莫干山里法国山居，体验欧式风情奢华居所（第110-119页）；若您没有时间远行，不妨花上一个周末的时间，与我们一起探寻北京的历史遗迹，在青葱浓郁的公园里信步漫行，舒展身心（第88-95页）。不论您在哪里，都能从忙碌的生活中逃离片刻，跟着本期杂志的精彩内容放松自己。

中

xquisite food, natural wonders, rich history and one-of-a-kind experiences – China has something to offer everybody, and in this issue we’ve covered it all. Meet Shanghai’s newest residents, as we chat to the international chefs that have opened up shop in the mega-city (pages 68-77). For those wanting to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a weekend, we head west to Moganshan and relish a luxurious European-inspired stay at Le Passage (pages 110-119). And for those unable to spare some time for a weekend trip, we’ve covered Beijing’s historical sites, which are surrounded by lush green parks where you can unwind (pages 88-95). Wherever you are, take some time out of your day to kick back and relax with us.

澳航线绽放20载 1996年中国东方航空公司首次开通上海－悉尼每周2个航班的直达航线。今天，我们每周有10班从悉尼到上海的直达航班、10班从墨尔本直飞上海、3班从悉尼经南京到北京航班。今年11月起，从悉尼／墨尔本直达上海的航线将增至每天两班，并增开4条连接中国与澳洲的航线：从悉尼到杭州、昆明、武汉每周各3班，以及布里斯班直达上海每周4班。凭借我们在澳大利亚逾20年的经验，我们有信心为您的中国之行带来更便捷、舒适的飞行体验。

roudly flying Australia to China for 20 memorable years, China Eastern Airlines launched its Shanghai to Sydney service in September 1996, with only two flights a week. Today, we’re operating 10 direct flights from Sydney to Shanghai, 10 from Melbourne to Shanghai, and three flights from Sydney to Beijing (via Nanjing). From this November, we’ll increase our direct flights from Sydney/ Melbourne to Shanghai up to double daily, and welcome four new routes into Australia: three weekly flights from Sydney to Hangzhou, Kunming and Wuhan respectively, and four weekly flights from Brisbane to Shanghai. With our 20 years’ experience in Australia, we’re confident we’ll bring you more convenience and comfort flying to China!

HIGHER VIEW ISSUE 17

Sub Editor Adam Scroggy

Creative Director Stephanie Goh

Advertising Max La-Brooy (02) 8188 3664

Editor Constantina Pilatos

Contributors Adrian Mourby Alex Mead Alicia Miller Lisa Perkovic Richard Ryan

Financial Controller Stuart Harle

max@citrusmedia.com.au

constantina@citrusmedia.com.au

Art Director Yamin Spendlove

Publisher Jim Flynn (02) 8188 3671 jim@citrusmedia.com.au

Staff Writer/Photographer Trent van der Jagt

Production Manager Ian Scott

Crystal Wong (02) 8188 3662

Higher View is produced for business-class passengers on China Eastern flights between China and Australia. It can also be found in select hotels. An iPad edition is available via the App Store.

crystal@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Blue Star Web

Citrus Media PO Box 20154 World Square NSW 2002

Cover image Trent van der Jagt

© 2016 Citrus Media. All rights reserved. No article or images may be reproduced wholly or in part without prior written permission from the publisher. While every care was taken during the preparation of this magazine, Citrus Media cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it. All views and opinions expressed herein are the personal views of the writer/photographer and do not necessarily reflect the views

or opinions of China National Tourism Office Sydney (CNTO) or any of its employees, affiliates or agencies. Higher View is an independent publication and is in no way endorsed by CNTO. The contents/photos do not necessarily represent the views of China Eastern Airlines.

CONTENTS

Features

Shanghai is fast becoming China’s food capital

46 Top 10 十大澳大利亚经典菜色

58 Chip off the old block 荟萃一体

68 World class 世界顶级

The top-10 places to try some classic Aussie dishes

Chippendale is a new city hot spot for casual and fine dining

Chefs from around the world have set up shop in Shanghai

墨尔本特色酒吧 Discover Melbourne’s exploding speciality bar scene

88 Park city 公园城市

96 Harvest season 丰收季节

110 French leave 竹林深处法国山居

120 Arty side 艺术情怀

Beijing’s historical sights are surrounded by stunning parks

The Australian food festivals worth travelling to

Lap up European luxury just three hours from Shanghai in Moganshan

Vermilion Gallery unites Chinese and Australian contemporary art

78 Raising the bar

CONTENTS

Regulars 29 News 动态新闻 What’s going on and where in China and Australia

38 Harbin in eight stops 哈尔滨之旅 Eight must-see attractions of Harbin, in all its old-world glory

44 Restaurant opening 新菜馆 Work in Progress @ Eric Koh is a pop-up we want to see stay

52 Concierge’s guide 上海之行 Experience Shanghai like a local with the help of a trusty concierge

54 Check-in 入住酒店 The Old Clare Hotel has undergone a serious makeover

56 在味蕾上跳动的澳大利亚

鲜美海鲜、香醇葡萄酒、香浓奶酪，潘华带领我们品尝澳洲各种美食

127 Higher life 奢华生活 Discover Pelikan, Craig Willis’ new offering in Shanghai

The latest in watches, auto, wine, fashion and jewels

162 My higher life 名人专访 We chat to Michael Jiang, the first person to attain China Eastern Platinum Membership

144

You’ll have no trouble relaxing at Le Passage Mohkan Shan

110

Bartenders experiment at Boilermaker House

A unique emerald bead and Art Noveau clasp necklace.

Shop 22, The Grand Walk, Queen Victoria Building, 455 George Street,Sydney Telephone (02) 9267 6628 Facsimile (02) 9267 4757

www.martinandstein.com.au

Take Off

THE BEST OF WHAT’S HAPPENING ACROSS CHINA AND AUSTRALIA

OZ ASIA FESTIVAL Adelaide 32 · FASHION WEEK Beijing 34 · TENNIS Shanghai 36 · SCULPTURE BY THE SEA Sydney 40

烟与镜，虚与实

String along As a part of the Melbourne Festival 2016 artist Chiharu Shiota, known for her large scale installations, will move her string-based piece The Home Within to a new secret location every night, before it makes its final stop at Melbourne Town Hall on October 23. For more information on the festival turn to page 42. 日本艺术家塩田千春（CHIHARU SHIOTA）喜欢制作大规模的作品。作为2016墨尔本节的一部分，她一件以绳子制作的作品“THE HOME WITHIN”将每个晚上于不同的神秘地方展出，最后将于10月23号进驻墨尔本市政厅。更多讯息请参考42页。

TA K E O F F

活动

Events

诱人美食

Hot plates

Here are the latest restaurants to set up shop in Australia 以下餐厅即将在澳大利亚开设分店，快来一饱口福吧……

Sichuan Bang Bang

OTTO Brisbane

Cuisine: Sichuan Where: Paddington, Queensland Sichuan cuisine is known for being nostrilflaring hot. And given the name ‘Sichuan Bang Bang’ you’d assume the menu would be a fearsome thing to behold. Indeed, it’s spicy and packs a punch, but is tolerable. The Sichuan beef or fish hot pot is equally traditional and delicious. sichuanbangbang.com.au

Cuisine: Modern Italian Where: Brisbane, Queensland Sibling to OTTO Sydney, OTTO Brisbane offers a light, summery menu reflecting the warmer north Australia climate combined with Italy’s south. You’ll find Sydney signatures like beef carpaccio and spaghetti carbonara on the menu. There is also no shortage of seafood. ottoristorante.com.au/brisbane

菜式：川菜地点：布里斯班帕丁顿川菜以其劲爆的辣味著称。看到餐厅名字“四川棒棒”，您一定以为热辣的菜肴令人望之却步。但是餐厅为您奉上的美味虽然辣味十足，却并不可怕。四川牛肉火锅和鱼火锅传统而地道，味道上佳。

菜式：现代意大利菜地点：布里斯班 OTTO BRISBANE与OTTO SYDNEY同属一家，清淡的餐品洋溢着夏天的感觉，让人忍不住想起澳大利亚北部和意大利南部的温暖气候。餐厅也供应薄切生牛肉和培根奶油意大利面等悉尼特色美食，海鲜更是应有尽有。

Al Taglio Cuisine: Italian Where: Surry Hills, New South Wales A pizzeria that serves authentic regional Italian pizzas made from age-old traditions. The interiors are simple, but modern. Bases – you have spelt and gluten-free options – are topped with cured meats imported from the mother country, washed down with organic wines and craft beers. altaglio.com.au 菜式：意大利披萨地点：新南威尔士萨利山 AL TAGLIO披萨店的内部装饰为现代简约风格，披萨采用古老的传统方法制作，是纯正的意大利地方特色披萨。披萨饼底可以选择不含小麦和麸质的，其上覆盖有法国进口腌肉，非常适合搭配有机葡萄酒和精酿啤酒。

TA K E O F F

CANBERRA

陌上花开

Flower of the f locks Canberra’s famously frosty winters provide the perfect conditions for the million tulips and annuals that bloom right on cue each spring. Once a daytime-only event, the Floriade festival now includes NightFest, with cutting-edge light installations and entertainment. September 17 – October 16, floriadeaustralia.com 堪培拉的冬天寒冷多霜，却恰好为郁金香等一年生植物创造了良好的生长条件。每年春天，数百万鲜花准时争相开放，绚烂非凡。堪培拉花展（FLORIADE）以前只在白天举行，现在增加了晚间项目，引进了先进的灯光设施，娱乐活动也更为丰富，美丽不容错过。活动日期：9 月17日至10月16日。 MACDONNELL RANGES

光之聚集 Come to light

小丑来啦 Clowning around Acrobatics meets the art of clowning in Cirque du Soleil’s Kooza. Expect a new take on circus acts like the Double Highwire and Wheel of Death. Touring Australia August 2016 – February 2017, cirquedusoleil.com 太阳戏团推出全新剧目“浪迹天涯”（KOOZ A），将杂技表演与小丑艺术完美融合，精彩演出令人期待。2016年8月至2017年2月在澳大利亚巡回演出。

Australia’s biggest light show installation is Parrtjima – A Festival in Light. Stretching over 2.5km of the iconic MacDonnell Ranges, the installation showcases contemporary and traditional Indigenous art. September 23 – October 2, parrtjimaaustralia.com.au 澳大利亚最大的灯光表演“ PARRTJ I M A光之盛会”即将开幕。灯光装置沿着地标麦克唐奈尔山脉（MACDONNELL RANGES）延展超过2.5公里，将当代艺术与传统原住民艺术展现得淋漓尽致。活动日期： 9月23日至10月2日。

即将来袭 OPENING SOON

Hyatt Regency Xi’an

Pullman Shishi Mattison

从中国唐朝汲取灵感，2 9 8 间客房的每个门牌都精雕制成，形式恰似秦兵马俑。

福建省泉州市迎来了第一家国际高档酒店，为这座城市增添了些许活力和都市风采，并带来了时尚好客的法国风情。

Inspired by the Tang dynasty, each of the guest-room doors have inscribed number plates, like the Terracotta Army. xian.regency.hyatt.com

The first upscale hotel to bring vibrant and cosmopolitan hospitality with a French soul to the city of Quanzhou. pullmanhotels.com 31

TA K E O F F

热点活动

Featured event

东与西之遇

East meets West OzAsia is celebrating 10 years of bringing art and culture from Asia to Adelaide with its biggest festival yet

澳亚艺术节（OZASIA FESTIVAL）喜迎十周年，以空前盛况向阿德莱德的观众呈现亚洲的艺术与文化。 The OzAsia Festival has it all when it comes to celebrating Eastern culture. You can catch performances from some of Asia’s best dance troupes, musicians, artists and cinematographers. Most works mix traditional practices, that date back hundreds and thousands of years, with contemporary elements of art making. And with an extra-special reason to celebrate this year – having run for a decade – new events have been added to the calendar. There’s a Moon Lantern Festival, Good Fortune Market and a free Outdoor Concert Series to celebrate the milestone anniversary. September 17 – October 2, ozasiafestival.com.au 澳亚艺术节将为您呈现东方文化的所有精彩。您可以领略来自亚洲最佳舞蹈团、音乐家、艺术家和电影摄影师的精彩作品，大部分作品将拥有数百年甚至上千年历史的传统习俗与艺术创作的现代元素加以融合。今年正值澳亚艺术节举办十周年，因此将增加更多新的庆祝活动。中秋节（MOON LANTERN FESTIVAL）、好运市场（GOOD FORTUNE MARKET ）以及免费的室外系列音乐会（OUTDOOR CONCERT SERIES）都将为您精彩呈现，来欢庆这个里程碑式的周年纪念。活动日期：9月17日至10月2日。 32

Sang Jijia is a Chinese choreographer whose performance will be on show at the festival

悉尼歌剧院旅游与体验 2017年1月27日, 悉尼歌剧院为您准备了特别的新年中文观光，与我们一起欢度新年吧！还有更多惊喜！一边在悉尼港值畔品尝美食，一边尽情欣赏世界上最迷人的海港美景，参观被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产的建筑，探索悉尼歌剧院设计师——约翰·乌松（Jørn Utzon）的设计方案如何在历经波折后终得面世的传奇故事。

关注悉尼歌剧院新浪微博您可到悉尼歌剧院售票处现场购票或登录官网在线预订网址: sydneyoperahouse.com/tours

Sydney Opera House Principal Partner

TA K E O F F

Beijing MUST SEE

New and improved The Peninsula Beijing has made some big changes. Undergoing a massive renovation – the final bill came to $163.7 million – the hotel’s public spaces, and, most importantly, rooms have been redesigned. The largest change is in the number of rooms. The original 525 total has been reduced and reimagined to just 230 suite-style rooms, each boasting separate bedroom, living room, bathroom and dressing room. The hotel has also launched ‘Keys to the City’, a program comprised of a collection of bespoke experiences giving insider access to Beijing’s most coveted landmarks and venues. peninsula.com/beijing

Fashion forward Fashion Week is back, and this season designers will present their Spring/Summer 2017 collections. You can expect big names like Alicia Lee • Li Kun; Giada Curti; and Fei Gallery & Boutique Sun Xuefei to put on shows, as well as many celebrity attendees. October 25 – November 2, chinafashionweek.org

Feast on this Two years young, the Shangri-La International Festival of Gastronomy will feature a line-up of celebrity chefs at 11 Shangri-La hotels across 10 cities. The 12 chefs hold a total of 20 Michelin Stars between them. Beijing will see Mauro Colagreco presenting creations reflecting his Argentinian-Italian heritage at his recently opened hotel restaurant, AZUR. October 25 – November 1, shangrilalovesfood.com

Stage presence

Good as gold National Day, commonly referred to as Golden Week thanks to the seven-day national holiday break, falls on October 1 and honours Mao Zedong’s 1949 declaration of independence. The celebrations begin with the raising of the Chinese National flag in Beijing, before the streets are filled with parades and festivals. Catch the celebrations from October 1-7. 34

All the way from New York, the critically acclaimed Paul Taylor Dance Company will present six modern dance programs at the National Centre for the Performing Arts. The company consists of 16 dancers performing works by the world’s very best choreographers. November 19-20, chncpa.org

TA K E O F F

Shanghai MUST SEE

Models and musicians

Breaking barriers

Fashion meets music when Shanghai welcomes Asia’s first Fashion Rocks event this October. Headlining the annual fundraiser charity show is quirky British pop singer Charli XCX. The international star, known for her playful style, will present designs from leading fashion names including Shangguan Zhe, while performing her hit songs such as “Boom Clap” at the Oriental Sports Center. K-pop boy band iKon and Mando/Cantopop singer Coco Lee are expected to complete the line-up, with more fashion designers due to be officially announced soon. October 14, en.damai.cn

The 11th edition of the Shanghai Biennale will explore the question of ‘Why not ask again?’ It encourages artists to go beyond and challenge the conventional division of Eastern and Western cultures. The Biennale acts as a launching pad for new visions and ideas. November 11 – March 12, powerstationofart.org

Game, set, match The stars of the tennis world descend on Shanghai for a week of thrilling tennis as they play it out for the 2016 Shanghai Rolex Masters title. Reigning champion Novak Djokovic will return to defend his title, but will have fierce competition with Rafael Nadal, Jo Wilfred-Tsonga, Andy Murray and Roger Federer in attendance. October 9-16, en.shanghairolexmasters.com

Stroke of genius Tim Burton is a man of many talents. Director, producer, artist, writer and animator, Burton embraces all media to produce his signature dark and quirky fantasy films, such as Beetlejuice. Lafayette Arts and Design Centre will be transformed for the World of Tim Burton exhibition, promising to allow audiences to walk into the world of the genius. Till October 10, timburton-sh.com 36

Nature calling In the very latest photography exhibition showcased by the now one-year-old Shanghai Center of Photography, the works of American artist Harry Callahan will go on display. The exhibition’s theme is nature and the collection aims to inspire awe towards the natural world and an awareness of our role in shaping it. Till November 27, scop.org.cn

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Harbin

1 Church of Saint Sophia

IN EIGHT STOPS

The main drawcard of Harbin is the unmatched Ice & Snow Festival, but there’s much more to discover when the weather’s warmer and the snow and ice has melted away

The red-brick Russian Orthodox Church of Saint Sophia, with its distinctive green dome, is Harbin’s most famous landmark. Built in 1907, the church has traded religion for photographs of Harbin from the early 1900s. Its unrestored interior and chandeliers evoke a yesteryear glamour.

2 Sun Island Park A 38-square-kilometre recreational zone with landscaped gardens, a water world, a Russian-style town and various small galleries and museums, Sun Island Park is great for the family.

Church of Saint Sophia

3 Harbin Confucius Temple Built in 1929, Harbin Confucius Temple is said to be the largest Confucian temple in north-eastern China. What you see now is from a recent restoration, but it retains all its charm from the 20s.

4 Temple of Bliss An active Buddhist temple, you’ll find many large statues here. Milefo and the Sakyamuni Buddha are among the largest. There’s also the Seven-Tiered Buddhist Pagoda, which dates back to 1924.

5 Harbin Ice & Snow Festival Every winter, from January to February, Zhāolín Park and Sun Island Park become home to extraordinarily detailed, imaginative snow and ice sculptures. They range from huge recreations of iconic buildings, such as the Forbidden City and European cathedrals, to animals and interpretations of ancient legends.

6 Harbin Culture Park Harbin Ice & Snow Festival

Harbin Confucius Temple

You’ll get the best views of the city from the giant Ferris Wheel located at Harbin Culture Park. It’s also a great place to have a wander and watch the locals unwinding after a hard day’s work.

7 Harbin Main Synagogue The beautiful old Main Synagogue, built in 1909, has been refurbished as a concert venue with a small museum.

8 Daoliqu district A pedestrian-only zone, the cobbled streets are lined with buildings that date back to the early 20th century. The mix of architectural styles is fascinating. 38

The Ultimate Luxury Swiss Watch and Jewellery Destination New Flagship Boutique opening in CHADSTONE October 2016

THE GLEN Shop 2, 103 The Glen Shopping Centre, Glen Waverley CHADSTONE Shop 338, Chadstone Shopping Centre, Chadstone T: +61 3 9654 1166 • E: enquiries@antonjewellery.com • antonjewellery.com Follow us @antonjewellery

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悉尼 Sydney 春日狂欢节

正在上演 ON STAGE

Spring into action This year’s Sydney Spring Carnival will see nine weeks of nonstop action. With almost $12 million in prize money and a total of 21 Group races, the carnival is set to attract a mix of Sydney’s A-list and racing enthusiasts. September 10 – November 1, theatc.com.au 悉尼春季赛马嘉年华（SYDNEY SPRING CARNIVAL）即将隆重回归，狂欢9周，热情不减。本届嘉年华奖金几乎高达1,200万澳元，共有21项级别赛，将吸引众多悉尼顶级赛手和赛马爱好者。活动日期：9 月10日 - 11月1日。

梦幻组合 Dream ticket David Campbell takes the lead role in Dream Lover – The Bobby Darin Musical. September 22 – November 13, sydneylyric.com.au/ dream-lover 大卫•坎贝尔将重返音乐剧舞台，担纲主演鲍比•达林音乐剧《梦中情人》。期待这部五六十年代热门剧目掀起观看热潮。活动日期：9月22日-11月13日。

海边景观

Sights to sea For the past 20 years Sculpture by the Sea has been transforming the Bondi Beach to Tamarama Beach coastal walk into an outdoor art gallery. The 2km-long temporary sculpture park features over 100 sculptures. October 20 – November 6, sculpturebythesea.com 过去的20年间，海边雕塑展(SCULPTURE BY THE SEA )已经把邦迪海滩与塔马拉马海滩之间的海岸步道变成了室外艺术画廊。这座暂时性的雕塑公园绵延2公里，展览着来自世界各地艺术家的100余件雕塑作品。活动日期：10月20日-11月6日。

阿拉伯之夜

美食盛会

Month of flavour Come October, Sydney is a food-lover’s Nirvana. The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Month brings together the city’s best restaurants for an array of events, highlighted by the 18 nights when Hyde Park morphs into an Asian hawker-style noodle market. sydney.goodfoodmonth.com 10月的悉尼是美食爱好者的天堂。悉尼先驱晨报美食月（THE SYDNEY MORNING HERALD GOOD FOOD MONTH）将举办一系列活动，把悉尼最好的餐厅汇聚堂。海德公园变身成为亚洲街头小贩风格的美食市场，18个闪耀的夜晚将成为十月的一大亮点。

Arabian nights Watch the magic of Disney’s Aladdin unfold in front of your eyes. Sing along to “A Whole New World” and all your favourites from the film. Till October 23, capitoltheatre.com.au/ aladdin 童年时代最爱的迪士尼电影《阿拉丁》将在您面前神奇重现。同演员一起欢唱主题曲《全新世界》和其他您喜爱的歌曲吧。活动截止日期：10月23日。

HOW WOULD YOU FEEL SUSPENDED 270M ABOVE THE VALLEY? FEEL SMALL AGAIN Just 90 minutes from Sydney. Tickets from $39 per person. BOOK TODAY AT SCENICWORLD.COM.AU

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墨尔本 Melbourne 不容错过 DON’T MISS

突破传统

Break with tradition Restaurants trying to reinvent the wheel in Melbourne is not uncommon. But what chef Florent Gerardin is managing to pull off at freshly opened Ôter is genius. Rejecting the traditional expectations of French cuisine, Gerardin serves ‘reconstructed’ dishes. If you grab a seat at the bar you can opt for the $60 degustation menu. oter.com.au 全新开业的ÔTER餐厅打破了人们对法国菜的传统预期，主厨弗洛朗·格拉丹开始摒弃老套的菜肴，转为供应被他称之为“再造”的现代菜肴。

艺术之城

City of art

闪耀异彩 Shiny goods The National Gallery of Victoria hosts Subodh Gupta: Everyday Divine, a solo exhibition of Gupta’s key bronze and aluminium sculptures. Till October 23, ngv.vic.gov.au 维多利亚国家美术馆正在举办名为《苏伯德·古普塔：神圣日常》（SUBODH G U P TA : E V E R Y D AY DIVINE）的个人展览，主要展示古普塔（GUPTA）重要的青铜和铝制雕塑作品。即日起至10月23日。

Throughout the Melbourne Festival you can expect to see drummers with fireworks in street parades, the Melbourne Symphony Orchestra covering David Bowie hits and trams being reimagined by artists as travelling installations. October 6-23, festival.melbourne/2016 墨尔本节（MELBOURNE FESTIVAL）将为您开启一场真正的艺术狂欢。节日期间，您可以看到肩上燃着烟花的鼓手在街头游行、欣赏墨尔本交响乐团与大卫·鲍伊的震撼演出，还可以乘坐由艺术家全新打造的旅游电车。活动日期：10月6日-23日。

爱情游戏

Love games Transporting you from the everyday to a magical world, Coppélia returns to Melbourne. Sorcery and masquerade, romance and high jinks – this is one of the funniest performances by The Australian Ballet. September 23 – October 1, australianballet.com.au 《葛蓓莉娅》（COPPÉLIA）再次回归墨尔本，带您领略不同寻常的神奇世界，该剧堪称澳大利亚芭蕾舞团最有趣、最欢快的作品之一。如果您错过了墨尔本的演出，该剧将于12月份在悉尼再次精彩上演。活动日期：9 月23日-10月1日。

长靴妖姬 Boots up Premiering in Australia, Kinky Boots the Musical, inspired by Harvey Fierstein’s novel, takes audiences from Northampton to the catwalks of Milan. October 12 – December 1, kinkybootsthemusical.com.au 音乐剧《长靴妖姬》（KINKY BOOTS THE MUSICAL）将于10月份在澳大利亚首演，该剧灵感源自哈韦·菲尔斯泰的剧本，将带领观众从北安普顿走向米兰T台。活动日期：10月12日-12月1日。

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新菜馆

点心大师

Master at work Work in Progress @ Eric Koh is a dim sum pop-up restaurant we wish would become a permanent fixture at Merivale WORK IN PROGRESS @ ERIC KOH是一家全新的快闪点心店，多希望它能成为MERIVALE旗下长期营业的餐馆！

Eric Koh is Sydney’s master of dim sum. Need convincing? One mouthful of his scallop and prawn siu mai will do it. Work in Progress @ Eric Koh occupies Merivale’s pop-up space, on King Street, and showcases all of Koh’s masterpieces. Serving fresh ingredients perfectly wrapped in little delicious dough parcels, the menu features favourites such as prawn har gow, duck spring rolls, mushroom-filled dumplings and prawn wontons. Sydneysiders can wash down the mouth-watering bite-size bundles with a selection of snappy cocktails, wines and beers. But if you want to catch Koh’s creations you’ll have to get in quick, as the pop-up bar is expected to close shop for the next chef early 2017. merivale.com.au/wipbar ERIC KOH是悉尼中式点心大师。您不相信？品尝一口他制作的扇贝和鲜虾烧卖定会让您心悦诚服。WORK IN PROGRESS @ ERIC KOH位于国王街（KING STREET）MERIVALE 的快闪店区，主要供应ERIC KOH的所有经典之作。餐厅供应多种新鲜食材的美味面点，虾饺、鸭肉春卷、蘑菇蒸饺以及鲜虾云吞都是菜单上大受欢迎的特色美食。悉尼人可以在品尝令人垂涎的一口量点心时搭配精选的时尚鸡尾酒、红酒和啤酒。但是如果想一尝ERIC KOH的创意美味，您必须抓紧时间了，因为这间快闪餐厅将在2017年初停止营业。

Restaurant news

the pure essentials of watchmaking, elevated to the level of art.

SEIKO BOUTIQUE AUSTRALIA Shop 63, Lower Ground Floor, Queen Victoria Building, 455 George Street, SYDNEY NSW 2000

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Made in Australia 澳大利亚制造 We’ve sampled everything from the humble sausage roll to the extravagant pavlova by Neil Perry, and one thing is clear: Australians are devoted to their family favourites. We track down the best and most iconically Aussie dishes so you can eat like the locals do... 这份十佳美食清单中既有普普通通的香肠肉卷，也有出自主厨尼尔•佩里（Neil Perry）之手、令人惊艳的帕夫洛娃蛋糕。然而，毋庸置疑的是，入选美食均是澳大利亚家庭的至爱珍选。我们遴选了这些最具澳大利亚风情的特色美食，让您尽情体验当地人的美食生活。

#1 Lamington Bennelong Some of our national dishes may be a little dated, but you won’t find any Aussies bad mouthing the humble lamington. A soft sponge coated in chocolate and coconut shavings might sound like it needs no improvement, but at Bennelong in the Sydney Opera House, Peter Gilmore has tinkered with this favourite to give it a new lease on 46

Peter Gilmore’s Lamington perfectly captures the spirit of this humble Aussie treat

Photo: David Griffen

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“It’s far from the plastic tray of lamingtons grandma pulls out for afternoon tea”

#2 Pavlova

life. Gilmore has reimagined the classic lamington as an exquisite and delicate ice cream cake. This cherry jam coconut ice cream and sponge drenched in a glossy chocolate ganache and presented in a cloud of liquid nitrogen coconut milk parfait is a long way from the plastic tray of lamingtons grandma pulls out for afternoon tea. bennelong.com.au

Rockpool Bar and Grill It’s not summer in Australia without a pavlova. For the uninitiated, imagine egg whites lighter than air and crumbly meringue topped with berries or passionfruit. While it’s almost second nature for any Australian to be able to whip up a pav from some eggs and sugar, Neil Perry’s Passionfruit Pavlova at Rockpool Bar and Grill in Sydney is quite easily the best in the world. In fact, he even says so himself. And once your spoon cracks through the meringue shell and glides through the fluffy innards, you’ll know he’s onto something. While he hasn’t exactly reinvented the wheel, he has certainly perfected it. rockpool.com

虽然澳大利亚的一些传统美食或许略显过气，但是所有澳大利亚人都对普普通通的莱明顿蛋糕赞不绝口。松软的蛋糕包裹在巧克力和椰蓉之中，美味无穷。不过，在位于悉尼歌剧院之中的BENNELONG餐厅，主厨彼得•吉尔摩（PETER GILMORE）经过一番别出心裁的尝试，使这款传统美食焕发出全新魅力。吉尔摩将经典莱明顿蛋糕打造成一款精致高雅的冰淇淋蛋糕。樱桃果酱椰子冰淇淋与绵软的蛋糕搭配，浸没在光滑如镜的巧克力淋酱（甘纳许）之中，与椰奶芭菲一起，在液氮散发出的淡淡烟雾之中呈现到您的面前。与祖母在下午茶时放在塑料盘中的莱明顿蛋糕相比，真可谓天壤之别。

在澳大利亚，没有帕夫洛娃蛋糕就不算真正的夏天。若您从没听说过这款甜品，请尽情想象比空气还要轻盈的蛋白形成松脆的蛋白霜外壳，然后在其顶部铺满浆果或西番莲。几乎每个澳大利亚人都能用鸡蛋和糖制作帕夫洛娃蛋糕，这甚至已经成为了他们的第二天性。尽管如此，在悉尼的ROCKPOOL BAR AND GRILL餐厅，主厨尼尔•佩里（NEIL PERRY）制作的西番莲帕夫洛娃蛋糕却称得上举世无双，甚至这位大厨自己也这么认为。当甜品匙敲开松脆的外壳，滑入柔软的内芯，此刻您一定会相信他所言非虚。虽然确切来说尼尔•佩里并没有进行重新创造，但他的这款甜品无疑是完美的。

Neil Perry’s famous Passionfruit Pav is easily the best in the world

#3 Fish and Chips Doyles on the Beach Sometimes there’s no need to breath new life into an old classic. Since it laid its foundations in 1885, Doyles on the Beach on Watsons Bay has become Sydney’s most loved seafood restaurant. And after 136 years the team at Doyles have had plenty of time to perfect their fish and chips. This plate of golden fried goodness is far from a soggy cardboard box from the corner store. Fresh Australian fish such as Tweed Head Sand Whiting, NT Saltwater Barramundi or South Coast Snapper coated in Hahn Premium Lager beer batter are on offer, but you can’t go wrong with any of the choices – especially when they come with a generous helping of hand-cut, good-old-fashioned chips. doyles.com.au 有时候，历史悠久的经典并不需要新生。自从18 8 5 年创立以来，位于沃森湾（WATSONS BAY）的DOYLES ON THE BEACH已成为悉尼最受欢迎的海鲜餐厅。餐厅在131年以来将炸鱼和薯条做到了极致。油炸海鲜呈现出金黄的色泽，和街角硬纸盒盛着的炸鱼有着天壤之别。餐厅选用的鲜鱼均产自澳大利亚，然后外面裹以啤酒面糊。不论您选择哪种口味都不会有错，并且特别适合搭配大份手工切制的传统风味薯条。 47

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#4 Pork and Fennel Sausage Roll Bourke Street Bakery Picking up a sausage roll at the local petrol station might be some people’s idea of a hearty lunch, but when you’re craving something salty you don’t need to settle. Bourke Street Bakery – located on the sleepy, eponymous street in Sydney’s Surry Hills – has been churning out sweet treats and meaty morsels to locals for years. At any time of the day people are lining up in the tiny doorway for their fresh sourdough loaves, ginger brulee tarts or famous Pork and Fennel Sausage Roll. Although they might resemble the classic Aussie tuck-shop treat, Bourke Street Bakery’s flaky hunk of pork is the much-needed upgrade we all need to try. bourkestreetbakery.com.au 对一些人来说，当地加油站的一份香肠肉卷或许就是丰盛的午餐。但是，心仪的午餐不能这么将就。在悉尼薩利山（SURRY HILLS）安静的街边，BOURKE STREET BAKERY多年以来一直为当地人提供各式甜点和肉类小吃。一天之中无论什么时候，小小的门口前面总是排着长队，人们来购买新鲜出炉的发酵面包，姜味布丁挞或著名的猪肉茴香香肠肉卷。虽然可能有些类似于经典的澳大利亚糖果食品店里的小食，BOURKE STREET BAKERY这个内馅丰富的肉卷却可谓是全面升级，一定要去尝试一下呀。

Bourke Street Bakery’s sausage rolls have people lining up around the corner every lunch

native ingredients into her brand of Aussie/Chinese cooking has given her menu the authenticity restaurant-goers look for in Sydney. billykwong.com.au 最初，丛林美食只有在澳大利亚的丛林地区才能品尝得到，而且根据地区的不同，口味也往往有所不同。后来，丛林美食凭借种类丰富的独特原料和口味，在大城市颇受欢迎。BILLY KWONG的主厨邝凯莉（KYLIE KWONG）创立了自己的澳大利亚丛林美食品牌，将极佳的咸味滨藜叶和塌菜叶以酥脆的千层酥饼卷起来。如果您熟悉中国北方的春卷和葱油饼，那您一定能轻易发现二者之间的相似之处。邝凯莉的澳大利亚/中国烹饪品牌所选取的食材均源于当地，这正是身处悉尼的食客所追求的正宗味道。

#5 Crispy Salt Bush Cakes Billy Kwong Bush tucker is the name traditionally given to food found in the Australian bush and usually geared towards regional Australia, but with so many distinct ingredients and flavours, it has found its way onto city plates too. Chef Kylie Kwong at Billy Kwong’s has rustled up her own brand of Aussie bush tucker by combining salty and incredibly buttery saltbush and tatsoi leaves inside a crisp and flaky pastry. Anyone familiar with the Northern Chinese spring roll onion pancake will easily detect the parallels in her style. Incorporating 48

Bush tucker and crispy Chinese spring rolls are a match made in heaven

“With so many distinct ingredients and flavours, bush tucker has found its way onto city plates too”

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Vue de Monde There aren’t a lot of obvious connections between the backyard sausage sizzle and fine French cooking techniques, but if there is anyone who can marry the two, it’s Shannon Bennett of Vue de Monde. This amalgamation of fresh Australian produce with elegant cooking skills – and a view of Melbourne to trump any Bunnings carpark – has led to one of Melbourne’s most famed restaurants and some of the country’s more unexpected dishes. A standout on the menu is the Marron Snag Sizzle. The sausages are made from Marron (WA crayfish) with scallop, chicken and seaweed and are served sizzling away on your own grill with warm brioche buns and seaweed mustard on the side. vuedemonde.com.au 在后院烤架上滋滋作响的香肠与上乘的法国烹饪技巧之间，似乎并没有什么明显的联系。但是如果有谁能将二者结合起来，则非 VUE DE MONDE餐厅的主厨香农•贝内特（SHANNON BENNETT）莫属。新鲜的澳大利亚食材与优雅的烹饪技巧完美融合，窗外的墨尔本景致无可匹敌，这些不但成就了墨尔本最著名的餐厅之一，也因此创造了一些让人惊艳的佳肴，其中以滋滋蓝魔虾香肠为最。制作香肠的食材包括蓝魔虾（西澳大利亚州小龙虾）、扇贝、鸡肉和海藻，香肠在您的专用烤架上发出滋滋的美妙声音，与之相配的则是热乎乎的甜面包和海藻芥末酱。

You won’t need to kindle your own campfire for this damper at Orana

“Served on a bed of hot coals, these morsels of moist potato bread fully embrace the simplicity of the traditional, rustic campfire” #7 Potato Damper Orana Orana is a destination restaurant that helped put Adelaide on the dining map. Jock Zonfrillo’s menu weaves local and native ingredients through every innovative dish, yet always remains grounded and unmistakably Australian. Prime ingredients, fresh seafood and foraged spices create an earthy flavour, and while every dish evokes its Aussie roots, it’s the Potato Damper that will have you dreaming of rolling out your swag and sparking up a campfire. Served on a bed of hot coals, these morsels of moist potato bread fully embrace the simplicity of the traditional and rustic campfire damper. restaurantorana.com

Reuben Hills’ Avo on Toast is an example of an old favourite executed to perfection

阿德莱德能在澳大利亚美食地图上占据一席之位，这离不开ORANA餐厅的功劳。主厨乔克•宗弗里洛（JOCK ZONFRILLO）创作的每一道餐品都采用当地天然原料，始终保持着淳朴特色，是地地道道的澳大利亚美食。以优质配料、新鲜海产和精制香料制作而成的餐品，创造出一种率真淳朴的味道。尽管每一道餐品都使人联想到其澳大利亚本源，然而土豆面包会让您盼望一场热闹的篝火聚会。湿润柔软的土豆面包被分成小份，在炙热的炭堆上烘烤，让您尽享传统朴实的篝火带来的那份简单和美味。

Photo: Matthew Turner

#6 Marron Snag Sizzle

#8 Avo on Toast Reuben Hills The seemingly simple avocado on toast is a staple in every good cafe across Australia. At breakfast, morning tea and lunch you’ll see tables strewn with sourdough and a dollop of the green stuff, but there are still some that reign supreme. Reuben Hills in Sydney’s Surry Hills is the premier stop for coffee and a seriously tasty breakfast. However it’s the Avo on Toast that sits them high on their pedestal. The perfect balance of lime and coriander-infused avocado and freshly baked sourdough is all you need for the perfect brekky, and Reuben Hills nails it every time. reubenhills.com.au 看似简单的牛油果烤面包却是澳大利亚每家上好咖啡馆中的必有餐品。在早餐、早茶和午餐时分，各个餐桌上都摆放着发酵面包和绿色蔬菜，但牛油果烤面包始终是最受欢迎的。想要喝杯咖啡，认真享受一顿美味的早餐，悉尼薩利山的REUBEN HILLS咖啡馆是您的首选，而牛油果烤面包则是这里的明星餐品。酸橙、以芫荽浸泡的牛油果和新鲜烘焙发酵面包的搭配营养平衡，为您奉上一份完美的早餐——REUBEN HILLS始终不负所望。 49

TA K E O F F Unwrapping this paperbark parcel at Attica reveals the best King George whiting in Australia

#9 King George Whiting in Paperbark Attica Like many of Australia’s top restaurants, Attica in Melbourne has been built around an appreciation for Australian flavours and ingredients. The $250 extended tasting menu runs you through a wave of locally sourced produce. Local veggies, spices such as wattleseed, and dishes featuring kangaroo and emu are the stars of the dishes and are often updated on the whim of chef Ben Shewry with the changing seasons or a particularly unique haul of newly foraged or sourced ingredients. A standout is the King George Whiting in Paperbark. Utilising traditional Aboriginal techniques, the whiting is cooked to perfection with butter, sea parsley and lemon myrtle wrapped in paperbark and slow grilled over a mallee root charcoal. attica.com.au 和澳大利亚的许多顶级餐厅一样，位于墨尔本的ATTICA餐厅也十分推崇澳大利亚的独特口味和原料。250澳元的赏味菜单中餐品十分丰富，让您尽情领略众多当地食材的味道。本地蔬菜、金合欢种子等调味料、袋鼠肉和鸸鹋肉等特色菜肴，均是餐厅的明星菜品。主厨本•谢瑞（BEN SHEWRY）经常随着季节变换、或者根据最新搜寻或获得的独特原料，对这些菜品进行调整，其中格外吸引人的是白千层裹乔治王鳕鱼。通过传统的原住民手艺，将鳕鱼煮到恰到好处，并和黄油、海欧芹和柠檬香桃木一起，用白千层裹好，用小桉树根木炭缓缓烤制。 50

#10 Jaffles Bad Frankie Many Australians are experts at cobbling together a quick jaffle (toasted sandwich) come lunchtime, but this quick snack is usually far from restaurant-worthy. Fortunately, Bad Frankie, a small spirits bar in Melbourne, has made the simple jaffle fresh again with some tweaked recipes that unashamedly pay homage to its Australian roots. You’ll find iconic flavours like the Anzac Bikkie Jaffle, a toasted brioche bun with rolled oats and golden syrup; or the favourite Lamington Jaffle, a chocolate-soaked sponge cake smothered with jam, coconut and cream. These combinations may be a little different from a visit to

Combining jaffles with Anzac biscuits and whisky – can’t get much more Aussie than that

Attica, but they’ve crammed so much Australiana into them that you’ve got to appreciate the effort. badfrankie.com 午餐时分，许多澳大利亚人都能很快地制作一份烤三明治，但是这种快餐一般难登大雅之堂。幸运的是，墨尔本小酒吧BAD FRANKIE制作的烤三明治虽然简单，却与众不同——独特配方骄傲地致敬其澳大利亚本源。在这里，您将找到标志性的澳大利亚风味，比如ANZAC BIKKIE烤三明治（烤奶油圆面包，轧制燕麦和金蔗糖浆卷）或最受欢迎的莱明顿烤三明治（以巧克力浸泡的绵软蛋糕，上面盖满果酱、椰蓉和奶油）。品尝这些美味或许与亲自到ATTICA餐厅美餐一顿略有不同，但是其中满溢着的澳大利亚风味足以让您大饱口福。

之選

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是阿蓋爾粉紅鑽石指定切割工坊 PB

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A CONCIER G E’ S GUID E TO...

Shanghai

George Yu has been with the Sofitel Hyland in Shanghai, where he started as a bell boy, for over 20 years. He knows Shanghai like the back of his hand... 于溯颖最初是上海索菲特海仑宾馆的门童，他已经在这里工作了20余年，对上海了如指掌，下面就是他与我们分享的关于上海旅游的建议。

What can you only find in Shanghai? 上海有哪些独特之处？

Shanghai has a lot of things other Chinese cities don’t have. Shanghai is special because it has the old part – like the Bund, with a lot of history – along with the new and more modern parts. Some American tourists told me it’s even better than New York. 上海有很多中国其他城市不具备的独特之处。以历史悠久的外滩为代表的旧文化与崭新时尚的新文化相融合，使上海更具独特魅力。一些美国游客甚至认为这里比纽约还要好。

What differentiates Shanghai from Beijing? 上海和北京有什么不同？

George Yu is chief concierge at Sofitel Hyland Shanghai

Beijing is the place to go for a lot of Chinese history if that’s what interests you, but Shanghai only really has about 200 years of history. Shanghai is always changing and growing very fast, while Beijing doesn’t change much as its focus is on preserving the past. 如果您对中国历史感兴趣，您可以去北京，而上海却只有大约200年的历史。上海总是处于日新月异的发展变化之中，而北京因为需要保留历史特色而很少改变。

Having worked at the Sofitel Hyland for over 20 years, what makes it a great hotel? 您已经在索菲特海仑宾馆工作了20余年，是什么成就了这间伟大的酒店？

I started here as a bell boy the first year the hotel opened, when I was a young boy. I’ve had a lot of Dining at Sofitel Hyland Shanghai

Shanghai is constantly evolving

opportunities to work in different areas of the hotel over the years and learn new things. I like the feeling that all the guests know me in the lobby and I like to create a community feel here. The hotel has grown and changed alongside Shanghai and I’ve enjoyed being a part of it. 酒店开业之初我就在这里工作，那时我还是一个小男孩，在酒店做门童。这些年来，我有很多机会在酒店的不同部门工作，接触新事物。大堂里所有的客人都认识我，我很喜欢这种感觉，而且我也喜欢将这里营造出“宾至如归”的感觉。酒店与上海一起发展、变化，我非常荣幸能够成为它的一分子。

Where to eat on the Bund? 外滩有哪些比较好的餐厅？

Shanghai changes so quickly, especially the restaurants on the Bund. A few of my favourites are Mr and Mrs Bund by Paul Pairet, which does some of the best French cuisine I’ve tried. Also, all the restaurants at Three on the Bund are good choices. But these can book out, so I’d recommend making a booking a week in advance. 上海的变化如此之快，外滩的餐厅更是如此。我很喜欢保罗·派雷特（PAUL PAIRET）的MR AND MRS BUND，那里有我吃过的最好的法国菜。外滩三号（THREE ON THE BUND）的所有餐厅也都是不错的选择。但是这些餐厅都很火爆，建议您提前一周预订。

Where are some great shopping options in Shanghai? 上海有哪些不错的购物场所？

There are many great places for shopping. The simplest is Nanjing Road Mall; for the high-end brands, IFC Mall in Pudong or the ICC buildings have brands like Versace and Prada. If you’re interested in smaller independent designer boutiques, the French Quarter is worth exploring. 上海有很多非常棒的购物场所。南京路商场（NANJ I NG ROAD MALL）就是不错的选择，但如果您想购买范思哲和普拉达等高端品牌，您可以去位于浦东的国际金融中心商场（IFC MALL）或上海环贸广场（ICC）。如果您对小众独立设计师的精品店感兴趣，法租界（FRENCH QUARTER）也值得一去。 52

8 9 M A R K E T S T R E E T , S Y D N E Y • T E L : 18 0 0 76 5 3 3 6 • W W W. O L E L Y N G G A A R D . C O M

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入住酒店

旧貌换新颜

What’s old is new again Repurposing a 1939 Art Deco pub and Victorian-era 1915 CUB headquarters into an upscale boutique hotel is no easy feat – but the Old Clare Hotel has managed to pull it off

将1939年的装饰艺术酒吧和1915年维多利亚时代的CUB酿酒厂总部重新打造为高档精品酒店并非易事，但老克莱尔酒店（OLD CLARE HOTEL）却做到了。 It wasn’t cheap, and nor was it a quick endeavour, but Loh Lik Peng – Singaporean hotelier and restaurateur – didn’t waste a minute of the three-and-a-half years it took to create what is now The Old Clare Hotel. Each of the 62 rooms is unique and perfectly groomed. There is no detail overlooked, down to the chairs, which happen to be one-off, upholstered and restored vintage pieces from Peng’s personal collection. While it retains its old-world charm, there are a few modern additions: a snazzy rooftop pool and bar, and three swanky restaurants, are the most noticeable. But what sets this hotel apart from the rest is its location. You’ll find the Old Clare in Chippendale’s redeveloped Kensington Street Precinct (see pages 58-66 for more on this). Rooms from $299, theoldclarehotel.com.au 不菲的造价，漫长的工期，新加坡人卢立平（LOH LIK PENG）是酒店兼餐厅老板，用整整三年半时间打造出了全新的老克莱尔酒店。酒店所有62间客房均经过精心装饰，没有遗漏任何一个细节，里面的古董软垫椅子，也都是卢立平的私人收藏。在保留旧世界魅力的同时，酒店也增添了些许现代元素：时髦的屋顶泳池和酒吧以及三间奢华的餐厅，尤为引人注目。老克莱尔酒店位于齐本德尔（CHIPPENDALE）重新开发的肯辛顿街区（KENSINGTON STREET PRECINCT），绝佳的地理位置更加彰显其与众不同（更多信息，请参考 58-66页）。每晚299澳元起。 54

Hotel check-in

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SANGIOVESE

在味蕾上跳动的澳大利亚潘华

一

说到吃与喝，法国人便会自豪地说：法国菜和中国菜是世界上最好的菜。其实，每个国家都有自己独特的美味佳肴，例如澳大利亚。这是一个比较年轻的多元文化国家，她虽然没有如中法等国家深厚的文化底蕴，但是她的饮食却是汇融了世界各国的精髓，再加上得天独厚的自然条件，食材丰富，品质卓越，也逐步形成了自己特有的饮食文化体系。老飨们在澳大利亚除了游山玩水，享用美酒佳肴实在是一个不可错失的机会。如果你去逛逛一些著名的菜市场，例如悉尼鱼市场，一定会让你大开眼球，被那些品种繁多的副食产品，琳琅满目的蔬菜水果，品质上乘的牛羊猪肉，各色生猛海鲜诱惑得满口流水。澳洲四面是海，海鲜遍地皆是。悉尼鱼市

场是澳洲最大的海鲜批发、零售及餐饮一体化市场。市场的产品种类有50 0多种，有巨大的澳洲龙虾、帝王蟹，新鲜的生蚝、三文鱼、鳕鱼，各色贝类等应有尽有。最有特色的就是一些鱼摊和餐厅合作经营，你可以直接选购最新鲜的海产品，买了就吃！佐餐少不了葡萄酒，澳大利亚可以说是南半球饮酒文化的摇篮。充足的阳光，优良且稳定的气候，加上具有丰富土地矿物质和不受污染的最佳自然环境，能种植出最好品种的葡萄，从而酿造出世界上最好的葡萄酒之一。澳洲崇尚保留葡萄品种的最高原味和果香的酿酒哲学，使葡萄酒充满个性和活力。多元文化背景的经验，出类拔萃的技术，锐意不断的创新理念，使澳洲葡萄酒跻身于世界上最好的葡萄酒的前列。

澳洲葡萄酒品种范围极为宽广，涵盖了丰富的酒种。澳大利亚销售量第一的红酒，是以最具代表性的桑娇维塞（SANGIOVESE）葡萄酿制而成，清透典雅的亮红色泽中带出新鲜迷人的澳大利亚独有果实香味，配合着极为柔顺的单宁，酒的风味、结构与质地都大大提高，可以酿出香醇细致富有陈年风味的好酒。澳大利亚几乎所有各州都生产葡萄酒，游客们可以尽情参观和品尝。猎人谷的奥德丽维尔金森酒庄（AUDREY WILKINSON）热情的庄园主人会带领游客进行一次从葡萄藤到酒杯的体验之旅，面对着美丽的山坡，无际的葡萄庄园，沉浸在晚霞的绚丽色彩中。一边品尝雷克希拉子葡萄酒，一边看着蹦蹦跳跳的袋鼠，展现在你眼前的是一个与以往完全不同的风光，那种悠闲逍遥的感觉会让你终身难忘。一顿典型的西餐还包括丰富多彩的奶酪，倘若在主菜和甜品之间没有上奶酪，这顿饭在人们心目中就会大打折扣。好客的主人至少要拿出三四种不同口味和形状的奶酪，供宾客挑选，并与葡萄酒一起共享。新州的一个小镇BEGA从1850年就开始生产奶酪，是澳洲最早生产奶酪的地方。如今，奶酪作为西人美食的象征之一，在日常生活中占有很重要的地位。据澳大利亚乳业局的数据，澳大利亚在2013 -2014财政年度生产了31万1 千吨奶酪，25万吨销往国内市场，价值近18亿澳元，人均消耗12公斤。位于悉尼市中心的“奶酪和酒屋”（GPO CHEESE AND WINE ROOM），菜单上列有近100种不同口味的奶酪，200种各类葡萄酒，供你选择和品味。 PAESANELLA是奶酪爱好者的圣地，它不仅是手工奶酪工厂，也是商店和咖啡厅。其中的马斯卡邦尼奶酪味道一流，还有拳头大小的意大利马苏拉里袋形奶酪，奶酪里塞满奶油，搭配最新鲜的土豆一起吃，撒上罗勒叶，再加些意大利火腿，将会是夏日的绝妙美味。 “奶酪火锅”恐怕是比奶酪本身更美妙的一种吃法，悉尼的这家奶酪火锅店是真正的瑞士口味，在稀奶酪中加入了热油和巧克力，再混入埃曼塔尔（EMMENTHAL）和格鲁耶尔（GRUYÈRE）奶酪，加入一勺葡萄酒、几粒大蒜，用酥脆可口的面包蘸着吃，搭配杜松子酒或樱桃白兰地，简直好吃的舍不得分享。一次美食探险足以满足您探求美食的好奇心和渴望，并让自己的味蕾得到无上享受。

Illustration: Millie Jia

M A RK FISH-sydney- ET

荟萃一体 CITY BREAK

CHIP OFF THE OLD BLOCK

From hawker street stalls to high-end dessert, Lisa Perkovic checks out Chippendale, Sydney’s coolest community 从路边摊到高端甜点，丽莎佩·尔科维奇（Lisa Perkovic）带领我们在悉尼最酷小区寻找各种美食。

CHIPPENDA LE

mooth domes of chocolate glaze, dazzling sprinkles of gold dust, deft splashes of fruit puree. The pastry cabinet at Koi Dessert Bar is a study in perfection. Each cake, mousse and tart is identical to its brothers and sisters, without a chocolate chard or edible flower out of place. MasterChef Australia, one of the country’s most popular reality TV competitions, has produced a handful of winners over the years, but it’s often runners-up and season favourites that go on to take the culinary scene by storm. Reynold Poernomo was the darling of dessert scenes in 2015’s season, winning fans over with his meticulous yet marvelous approach to sweet treats.

And he has done the same here, turning a tiny slice of Sydney into a dessert destination. It’s not surprising Koi Dessert Bar has settled so seamlessly into Chippendale’s Kensington Street. You really can expect the unexpected when turning off Sydney’s major thoroughfare, George Street, to find yourself in a melting pot of culture and flavours. You’ll find casual street food stalls cheek-by-jowl with petite French wine bars, and high-end degustation dinners taking place at the same time as pop-up art festivals. The Chippendale precinct itself is home to more than 20 art galleries and dozens more restaurants that have popped up over the last decade, but the revitalisation >

Clockwise from left: A share plate from Kensington Street’s Mekong; tasteful, Frenchinspired design at Bistrot Gavroche; Chippendale is now a dessert destination

CHIPPENDA LE

光

滑的圆顶巧克力釉、令人眼花缭乱的金粉、精巧的水果泥，Ko i Dessert Bar的点心台堪称完美典范。如果没有巧克力甜菜或食用花卉的点缀，那么每一块蛋糕、慕斯和果馅饼只是都一模一样而已。多年来，澳大利亚最受欢迎的竞赛类电视真人秀之一— —澳洲版《顶级厨师》（MasterChef Australia）的冠军虽然屈指可数，但比赛的亚军和赛季热门人物往往能继续引领烹饪风潮。雷诺·普尔诺莫（Reynold Poernomo）是2015赛季甜品领域的宠儿，凭借一丝不苟而又不可思议的甜品制作方法赢得了众多粉丝。在Koi Dessert Bar，他再获成功，将一片小小天地打造成悉尼的甜品胜地。 Koi Dessert Bar能够完美融入位于齐本德尔区（Ch i ppe n d a l e）的肯辛顿街

（Kensington Street）并不奇怪。离开悉尼主干道乔治街（George Street），您会切身感受到文化和风味的交融。在这里，您可以期待任何意料之外的惊喜，您会看到路边摊与小型法式红酒吧比肩而邻，而高端尝味晚餐则与快闪艺术节交相辉映。齐本德尔区在过去10年间涌现出了2 0 逾家美术馆和大量餐厅，但让曾经荒废的卡尔顿联合啤酒厂（Carlton United B rewe r y）焕发生机的却是G re e nc l i f f 执行主席斯坦利·奎克博士（Dr Stanley Q u e k）。这位慈善家兼房地产开发商于 20 07年买下肯辛顿街，希望将其改造为集艺术、文化和美食于一体的社区。改造伊始，奎克博士就有了这样的愿景。同年，现任肯辛顿街创意总监的尼基·金斯伯格（Nicky Ginsberg）在此开设了NG Gallery & Mission > 61

CHIPPENDA LE

“This boutique hotel has just 62 rooms, but each is decorated differently, filled with restored furniture from Peng’s personal collection” of what was once the dilapidated Carlton United Brewery site is largely thanks to the vision of Greencliff executive chairman Dr Stanley Quek. The philanthropist and property developer bought Kensington Street in 2007, with a vision to transform the area into a community centered around art, culture and, of course, food. Dr Quek’s vision was born right at the time when the first inklings of change were coming to the suburb. In the same year, Nicky Ginsberg, now Kensington Street’s Creative Director, opened NG Gallery & Mission Restaurant. In 2010 she’d go on to found the Chippendale Creative Precinct, using Government grants to facilitate artist events. In 2009 Judith Neilson opened her seminal White Rabbit Gallery, dedicated to Chinese contemporary art. Dr Quek encouraged artists to utilise Kensington Street’s historic cottages, once used to house brewery workers as studios, until he was ready to begin development. Chippendale was quietly encouraging a community of creatives to bring life back into the suburb.

A CLARE VISION Along the way, Singaporean hotelier Loh Lik Peng swooped in to transform seminal Sydney pub the Clare Hotel – and the adjacent Carlton United Brewery’s administration building – into The Old Clare Hotel. This boutique hotel has just 62 rooms, but each is decorated differently, filled with restored furniture from Peng’s personal collection. The hotel brings the history of these two locations – an Art Deco pub and an 1840s building – back to life: think lovingly celebrating exposed brick walls, high ceilings, fading cement render and beautiful, big windows. Original features are juxtaposed with modern pieces to create an industrial chic aesthetic – filament lamps, freestanding baths, tongue-in-cheek amenity kits and bespoke bedheads are just a few examples. And then there’s the food. The Old Clare is home to three cutting-edge eateries that have been drawing crowds and critics in droves. Hotel guests can take breakfast in Kensington Street Social, British Michelin-starred chef and Gordon Ramsay protege Jason Atherton’s 19th restaurant. Sitting level with its namesake, the warehouse space is marked by high concrete columns, exposed concrete walls and brass detailing. Shanghai-based designers Neri & Hu are responsible for the sleek look, and Atherton’s menu > 62

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Clockwise from left: Delicious selections at Koi Dessert Bar; Reynold Poernomo is the brains behind Koi, pictured here; exterior shot of Kensington Street Social

Restau rant。2 010年，她借助政府补助来推进艺术家活动，继续打造齐本德尔创意区。2 0 09年，朱迪·尼尔森（Jud ith N e i l s o n）开办了白兔美术馆（ W h i t e Rabbit Gallery），专注于中国当代艺术。在做好开发准备前，奎克博士鼓励艺术家们利用位于肯辛顿街的酿酒工人旧宅作为工作室。不知不觉中，齐本德尔转变成了一个充满创意的社区，再次焕发勃勃生机。与此同时，新加坡酒店老板卢立平（Loh Lik Peng）也开创性地将悉尼酒吧改造成克莱尔酒店（Clare Hotel），而邻近的卡尔顿联合啤酒厂（Carlton United Brewer y）行政大楼则改造成了老克莱尔酒店（The Old Clare Hotel）。作为精品酒店的后者只有62间客房，但每间客房的装饰都别具一格，家具都是卢立平的私人收藏。老克莱尔酒店通过裸露的砖墙、高高的天花板、淡褪的水泥墙面和精美的大窗户使装饰艺术酒吧和19世纪40年代的建筑再现历史繁华。原始特征与现代元素相融合，打造出了别致的工业美感— —钨丝灯、独立浴室、健康护理套装以及定制床头板，不胜枚举。酒店的美食也如此出众。老克莱尔酒店拥有3间高端餐厅，吸引着众多食客和评论家蜂拥而至。酒店宾客可以在Kensington Street > 63

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keeps up, with a new-age approach to a hotel breakfast: there’s not a bain-marie in sight. The lightly smoked mackerel omelette is quickly becoming a signature dish, but there’s one dish on the a la carte menu that’s the talk of the town. “English breakfast tea and toast” comes on a wooden stand, with a teapot of wild mushroom broth and bread crisps covered in bone marrow. The vintage espresso martini and Campari cocktail trolleys are also popular with the brunch and long-lunch crowds. At Automata, serious fine dining is brought to you by ex-Momofuku Seiobo chef Clayton Wells. His five-course menu focuses heavily on Australian seafood in delicate dishes like bug tails in an XO and red vinegar sauce. The Old Clare Hotel isn’t the only venue bringing big names to this small inner-city suburb. Across the way, on the southern end of Kensington Street, is Bistrot Gavroche. French chef Frederic Colin and his team have taken over Carlton Brewery’s old rum warehouse, setting up a Sydney version of his Singaporean success Brasserie Gavroche. Bringing over two shipping containers filled with French antiques, they’ve transformed the warehouse into a French eatery, complete with bakery shelves picked up at a Rhone Valley antique market, beautiful vintage signs, a four-metre French silk manufacturing table and oak swing doors from Lyon’s famous Brasseries Georges. Bistrot Gavroche sets the scene beautifully; you’ll be sipping a Bordeaux red and devouring tartine d’os a moelle in no time. French 64

“It’s the smaller Spice Alley where Sydneysiders and tourists alike are dining al fresco every night” classics like confit duck, hanger steak and escargot fill the menu; just make sure to save room for dessert, with tarte tatin and flambe crepe suzettes a few highlights.

SPICING THINGS UP Kensington Street’s big, bold restaurants are perfect for special occasions, but it’s the smaller Spice Alley where Sydneysiders and tourists alike are dining al fresco every night. Chinese lanterns hang over the alleyway, which is home to Kopi-Tiam, a mini-hawker spot with four casual eateries designed to bring people and flavours together. It’s perfect for a roaming dinner. Start off at Hong Kong Diner, with what the team is calling “Laneway Yum Cha”. Favourites like prawn dumplings, BBQ pork buns and chicken spring rolls are all under $10. At Alex Lee Kitchen, roti is the local’s choice, served alongside laksa, satay and noodles. Bang Luck Thai Street Food is great for quick, fresh Thai stir fries, while Old Jim Kee takes care of the Malaysian spiced dishes. >

Clockwise from left: Kensington Street Social dining room; Bangkok ice cream bowl, Vietnamese coffee and Burmese coconut bun at Mekong; mezzanine at Automata, by ex-Momofuku Seiobo chef Clayton Wells

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DETAILS KOI DESSERT BAR 46 Kensington Street koidessertbar.com.au

WHITE RABBIT GALLERY 30 Balfour Street whiterabbitcollection.org

THE OLD CLARE HOTEL 1 Kensington Street theoldclarehotel.com.au

BISTROT GAVROCHE 1/2-10 Kensington Street bistrotgavroche.com.au

CENTRAL PARK 28 Broadway centralparksydney.com

S o c i a l 享用早餐，这间餐厅是英国米其林星级主厨、戈登·拉姆齐（G o r d o n R a m s a y）爱徒杰森·阿瑟顿（J a s o n Atherton）的第19间餐厅。这个与肯辛顿街同名的仓库以高耸的混凝土柱、裸露的混凝土墙和黄铜装饰为特色。总部位于上海的如恩设计研究室（Neri & Hu）为其打造了时尚外观，而阿瑟顿也不甘示弱，为您倾心打造全新的酒店早餐菜品。微熏鲭鱼煎蛋卷（lightly smoked mackerel omelette）迅速成为这里的招牌菜，但菜单上的“英伦早餐茶和烤面包” （English breakfast tea and toast）却成为了城中热话。高品质的意式特浓马丁尼和金巴利鸡尾酒也很受早午餐和午餐人群的欢迎。在Automata，您可以品尝由Monofuku Seiobo餐厅前任主厨克莱顿·韦尔斯（Clayton Wells）为您打造的精致美食。他的五道特制佳肴均以澳大利亚海鲜为主。老克莱尔酒店无疑已经成为美食餐厅中的翘楚，但它并不是齐本德尔唯一一间令众多大腕趋之若鹜的餐厅。位于路对面、肯辛顿街南端的Bistrot Gavroche也是其中之一。法国主厨弗雷德里克·科林（Frederic Colin）和他的团队买下卡尔顿啤酒厂的老朗姆酒仓库，希望将其打造成曾在新加坡大获成功的 Brasserie Gavroche的悉尼版。他们从法国运来两个集装箱的法国古董，利用这些古董将仓库改造成了法式餐厅，内部设计极为华美。您也可以品尝油封鸭、烤腹肉牛排和蜗牛等经典法餐，但要记住留点肚子给甜品，这里的鞑靼塔和火焰可丽饼都非常不错。

肯辛顿街恢弘大气的餐厅是特殊聚会的完美之地，但每晚都有悉尼人和游客在小型餐厅Spice Alley的户外用餐。KopiTiam所在的小巷挂满中式灯笼，四间休闲餐厅汇聚于此，为人们提供不同风味的美食。这里是漫步晚餐的完美之所。从被称为“在小巷间饮茶”的Kong Kong Diner 开始，虾饺、叉烧包和鸡肉春卷等大受欢迎的美食价位都在10澳元以下，还有更为传统的皮蛋瘦肉粥、慢火炖牛腩、烤鸭以及流沙包。Alex Lee Kitchen的烤肉是当地人的最爱，还有辣味米粉汤、沙茶烤肉和面条可供选择。Bang Luck Thai Street Food供应新鲜的泰式炸薯条快餐，而Old Jim Kee则专注马来西亚菜式。 Spice Alley的露天桌椅非常适合休闲晚餐，但小巷尽头是一间两层楼高、装饰着玻璃幕墙的现代温室，那正是Koi Dessert Bar之所在，将这里作为漫步晚餐的最后一站非常完美。您可以在楼下的点心台大快朵颐，也可以去楼上品尝桌上用液氮冷藏的睡前酒，配以各色堪称美食艺术的甜品。如果天公不作美，您不能享用露天晚餐，那么到旁边的中央公园（C e n t r a l Park）商场用餐也是个不错的选择。当地品牌、国际品牌和众多亚洲风味餐厅，包括鼎泰丰（Din Thai Fung）都位于这个中央公园公寓大楼下面的时尚空间内。公寓的住客为齐本德尔带来瞬间涌入的人潮，但正是该社区在公共空间上的投资使这里成为了悉尼郊区之中的后起之秀。

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Spice Alley’s cluster of open-air tables and chairs set the scene for a casual dinner, but the alley leads all the way to a two storey, glass-walled modern day conservatory that is the Koi Dessert Bar. It’s perfectly positioned as the final stop on a roaming dinner. Grab a treat from the downstairs pastry cabinet or head upstairs for nightcaps frozen at the table via liquid nitrogen and plates of dessert that are truly edible art. If the weather isn’t conducive to an open-air meal, the Central Park complex next door brings super malls the size of Hong Kong’s famous centres to Sydney. Local designers, international brands and more Asian-influenced eateries including Din Tai Fung are housed inside this sleek space that sits underneath the trendy Central Park apartment complex. Residents from the apartments have brought an instant influx of people to Chippendale, but it’s the community’s investment in communal spaces that has made this Sydney’s coolest up-and-coming suburb.

Clockwise from left: The trendy Central Park apartment complex is impossible to miss from ground level; Chinese lanterns watch over Spice Alley; Kopi-Tiam graffiti

Left to right: Read more about Craig Willisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new restaurant, Pelikan (pictured here) on page 76; steamed codfish, young mushrooms and bamboo at Villa le Bec

SHANGHAI

WORLD CLASS 亚历克斯·米德（Alex Mead）与一众越洋过海，为上海带来他们精湛的国际厨艺的大厨们畅谈美食心得。 Alex Mead chats to the chefs who have crossed waters to bring Shanghai their international culinary expertise

NICOLAS LE BEC, VILLA LE BEC A former superstar in the gastronomic superpower of France, Nicolas Le Bec has made Shanghai his home – but recreated a little slice of his homeland in the process.

LYON TO SHANGHAI

It shouldn’t really have come as a surprise to anyone when Nicolas Le Bec upped sticks in Lyon and packed his bags for China. Even as a child in Paris, Chinese food was a huge part of his life, so why wouldn’t he see that same country as a promised land? “Whenever I got a good mark in school, my parents would reward me with a visit to the local Chinese restaurant in Paris,” Le Bec says. “It was always such an exotic joy for me!” Of course, it wasn’t just Le Bec’s fond memories of Chinese cuisine in 1980s Europe that led him to leave his beloved Lyon, a culinary giant of a French city in which he’d gained fame – and no doubt a bit of fortune – with his two-Michelin-starred restaurant Nicolas Le Bec. The doors seemed to have barely swung open at his Comptoir de la Rue Le Bec, in 2012, when the chef decided he would move to his Chinese wife’s homeland. “I was always attracted by Asia; I’d always wanted to work there – particularly China,” Le Bec continues. “I’d done a lot of culinary demos in that part of the world and it really appealed to me. But the main reason I came to China was because of my wife; she’s from here and I wanted to bring her back here where she could be close to her family.” > 69

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A STEP INTO THE UNKNOWN

What’s perhaps more remarkable about Le Bec’s story is that despite having won virtually every accolade that can be bestowed upon a chef, he didn’t opt for the well-trodden route of keeping one foot in the French market with a bistro or a-la-carte restaurant. Instead, he put everything he had into his new venture in Shanghai. “I wanted a taste of an unknown territory,” he explains. “At 40 years old I wanted to keep challenging myself, and where better than China, a huge and incredible country? I felt that there was so much for me to learn in China.” And why Shanghai specifically? “I’ve got a lot of international experience from travelling around and there are three cities I’ve fallen in love with: New York, where I used to work in 1988; Sao Paulo in Brazil; and Shanghai. It has always been on my list, and my wife made it the obvious choice. “It’s such a vibrant city, an innovate city, a working city – and the people love to try new things. They’re curious people. It’s a real challenge to be here.”

FRENCH CONNECTIONS

It’s a challenge he has not only taken on with gusto, but succeeded at too. Settling in the French Concession area 70

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大厨尼古拉斯·勒·贝克， Villa Le Bec餐厅来自超级美食大国法国的前厨界巨星尼古拉斯·勒·贝克（Nicolas Le Bec）在上海安家并在这里开创了一小块法国天地。从里昂到上海尼古拉斯·勒·贝克收拾行囊，离开里昂来到中国。对任何人而言，这都是个“惊喜。 “每当我在学校得了高分，我的父母就会奖励我到巴黎当地的中国餐厅大快朵颐，” 勒·贝克如是告诉《翼境》杂志， “这对我而言一直是一种有着异国情调的快乐！” 当然，并非勒·贝克对上世纪80年代欧洲中国菜的美好回忆促使他离开心爱的里昂，法国的烹饪之都。要知道，他正是在这里凭借两个米其林星级餐厅获得了名声和财富。2012年，他的Comptoir de la Rue Le Bec刚刚开业，勒·贝克就决定搬到他妻子的故乡——中国。 “亚洲总是对我很有吸引力，而我总是想去亚洲，特别是在中国工作，”勒·贝克继续说道， “我已经在亚洲做过很多烹饪表演，这里真真切切地吸引着我。但我来到中国的主要原因还是因为我的妻子，她的故乡在这里，我想要把她带回这里，这样她可以和家人更加亲近。”

Clockwise from left: Le Bec says he looks to bring the “French joie de vivre” into the heart of Shanghai; Panseared duck foie gras with hibiscus and raspberries at Villa le Bec; the interior of Le Bec’s Xinhua Lu location

of the city – obviously – Le Bec took over a 100-year-old villa complete with its own tranquil private garden and first opened the more casual Bistro 321 Le Bec in 2014. The more grandiose Villa Le Bec followed earlier this year and has already won an army of admirers. In combining the idyllic setting provided by this historic European-style building on the tree-lined street of Xinhua Lu with a menu serving his own takes on French classics, he’s the current hot ticket in town. While you’d expect to find the likes of foie gras, pork rillettes and steaks on Le Bec’s menu, a nod to his ongoing Chinese culinary education can be found in the roast pigeon in a caramelised soy glaze – East meets West on a plate. “A few local products have caught my eye and started to appear on the menu,” Le Bec says. “But I’m still comparatively new, don’t forget, and I still have so much to learn and discover. Chinese cuisine contains so many different flavours and there’s so much variety. I love the fresh Sichuan pepper, the fresh sea urchins, the Chinese wagyu, the lamb from north China; and the sheer volume of different vegetables is amazing. Likewise the fruit.” >

未知前路也许关于勒·贝克更值得注意的是，尽管赢得了一个厨师可能获得的所有荣誉，但他没有选择走老路，再在法国开一家酒馆或餐厅，而是带着自己拥有的一切来到上海，踏上新的征途。“我想要尝试一个未知的领域，”他解释说， “在40岁的年纪，我仍想要不断挑战自己。哪里有比中国，这样一个巨大和令人难以置信的国家更好的所在呢？我觉得我要在中国学习的东西太多了。” 那么为什么选择上海呢？“我在世界各地旅游期间，爱上了三座城市。我曾经工作过的纽约，巴西的圣保罗和中国的上海。” “这是一个充满活力的城市，一个创新的城市，一个永不停歇的城市——这里的人们喜欢尝试新事物，他们充满了好奇。来到这里是一个真正的挑战。” 法国渊源这样的一个挑战，他不仅欣然面对，而且大获成功。餐厅选址于上海法租界一座有着百年历史的别墅，这里有着宁静的私家花园。2014年，勒·贝克的Bistro 321 Le Bec 正式开业。而今年早些时候，规模更大的Villa Le Bec开业伊始便赢得大批粉丝。在绿树成荫的新华路上，这座餐厅将欧洲风格历史建筑的田园风光与勒·贝克自成一派的经典法式菜肴相结合，使勒·贝克成为上海的“红人” 。您固然能在勒·贝克的菜单上找到鹅肝酱、熟肉酱和牛排等经典法式菜肴，但从焦糖大豆酱烤乳鸽中也可窥见他对中式菜肴的孜孜追求——东西两种饮食文化的融 > 71

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Le Bec has cemented himself and his business in the very heart of Shanghai, and it’s this that sets him apart from so many other international chefs in the city. When he’s not manning the stoves at Villa Le Bec, you’ll find him experimenting with Chinese family-style dishes or seeking out small, local restaurants for new inspiration amid the tangle of Shanghai’s lanes and alleyways.

A HAVEN IN THE CITY

But as much as he loves his new home, Le Bec knows what sets his restaurant apart is the fact it’s so different from the city itself, offering a contrast in pace, style and, indeed, a sometimes much-sought-after personal touch. “I think we offer the French joie de vivre but in the very heart of Shanghai; it’s a peaceful haven in this huge and eclectic city,” Le Bec says. “I actually don’t know if we would want to set up outside of Shanghai. I think the real key to the success of Villa Le Bec has been the fact myself and my wife Yu have both been there. “We don’t want to be in lots of places because while you might earn more by doing that, we don’t to waste our time flying between them all, and China is so big that it could be a lot of travelling. We genuinely prefer to be more modest, although that doesn’t mean we don’t have ambition to progress – that’s something we’re always striving to do.”

Left to right: Wong combines Hawaiian regional cuisine with Chinese traditions; ‘The Coconut’ (coconut sorbet in a chocolate shell, with seasonal fruits and passionfruit sauce) at Alan Wong’s Shanghai

ALAN WONG, ALAN WONG’S SHANGHAI He has cooked for presidents, headed up one of America’s top-10 restaurants, and even helped create a cuisine – that’s why Shanghai is so glad to have Alan Wong.

TASTE OF AN ISLAND

Not every chef can lay claim to helping create a cuisine, but that’s what surely sits proudly at the top of the CV of Alan Wong, chef proprietor of Alan Wong’s Shanghai at The Portman Ritz-Carlton. Together with 11 other Hawaii-based chefs, in 1992 Wong helped create and then gain recognition for what is now known as ‘Hawaii regional cuisine’. It allowed the island state to finally make its mark on the culinary world, highlighting its unique flavours and diverse influences. Impressive as that is, it still jostles for CV top spot with a host of other accolades including countless awards for his two Honolulu eateries The Pineapple and Alan Wong’s Honolulu; cooking for President Obama at the White House; and ranking sixth in a list of America’s top restaurants.

SHANGHAI

THIRD TIME LUCKY

Wong’s latest venture has seen him arrive in China, the land of his forefathers, as Alan Wong’s Shanghai becomes the third in his restaurant stable and the only brand outside of Hawaii. “I was approached by a company I’d worked with for many years who said they had this great opportunity in Shanghai that we shouldn’t pass up,” Wong explains. “So we toured Shanghai, liked what we saw and now we’re here.” During his tour of the city, like many gourmet travellers, Wong was taken with the sheer variety of food and flavours on offer. “I consider Chinese cuisine one of the grandfathers of cooking,” Wong says. “It’s a great cuisine, one of the oldest, and it isn’t just one cuisine; there are eight major cuisines – Sichuan, Hunan, all different cooking styles. Seeing them all in the same place is what struck me first about Shanghai.” And like so many other international visitors to China, what he considers ‘Chinese’ back home isn’t what he finds in the country itself. “When I travel, I always try to search out what I’ve eaten in Hawaii from that country,” Wong says. Often, he discovers that Chinese dishes regularly served in Hawaii are completely different in China itself. “Being in Shanghai is a constant learning process, and that’s what I enjoy most. You discover new things, new ways of doing things. I’m rediscovering my Chinese roots, because I’m quarter-Chinese, quarter-Japanese and half-Hawaiian.”

PAN-ASIAN FLAVOURS

Not only is Wong a diverse mix; the same can be said about his food. Its array of influences are spread across Asia and the Pacific, but combined with the kind of fervour for fresh, meaty and mighty seafood that the Chinese can definitely relate to. As such, his menu has been tailored to the Shanghai audience, while staying true to his Hawaiian roots. “I have an old saying: ‘When in Rome, cook for the Romans’,” Wong says. “We’re not in Honolulu, Hawaii. We’re in Shanghai, China.” In his pursuit of creating dishes that suit the local palate, Wong visited a plethora of restaurants where the real locals eat to try and assess the levels of sugar, salt and spice. “Handling spice really isn’t a problem for people in Shanghai,” Wong explains, “because Sichuan cooking blows your mind. I didn’t realise you could make my palate literally numb, but this Sichuan broth I tried did just that. It blew me away. You could not imagine. I love hot, I love spicy, I love it – there’s even such thing in this restaurant called “Wong Hot” – but this one blew me away. “Anyway, we’ll adapt the dishes according to this and also the local produce available, because the flavour and taste can change according to that too.” Wong’s menu not only includes some plates lifted straight (and then tweaked) from his Honolulu restaurants – such as ginger-crusted Kagoshima red snapper – but, as you might expect, he also has a tasting menu dedicated to Hawaii. Butter poached live Maine lobster, twice-cooked soy braised short ribs and The Coconut (coconut sorbet in a chocolate shell, >

合。 “几款本地产品已经吸引了我的注意，开始出现在菜单上，”勒·贝克承认道， “但是别忘了，相对而言，我还是个新手，还有很多去学习和发现。中餐的口味和种类数量繁多，不胜枚举。我喜欢新鲜的花椒、新鲜的海胆、中国和牛、来自中国北方地区的羊肉，以及数量惊人的多种蔬菜和水果。” 勒·贝克把自己和餐厅固定在上海的核心位置，正是这一点使他在上海其他众多国际厨师中鹤然独立。当不在Villa Le Bec忙碌的时候，勒·贝克会尝试中国家庭风格的菜肴，或者走进上海的大街小巷，从当地小馆寻找新的灵感。都市避风港尽管很喜欢他的新家，但勒·贝克知道他的餐厅的与众不同之处在于它与上海这个城市大相径庭，这里有着完全不同的节奏、风格以及个人感触，而后者正是我们有时所努力寻求的。 “我认为我们是在繁华喧闹的上海寻求法国式的生活乐趣，这里是上海这座兼容并蓄的大城市中一片宁静祥和的避风港，”勒·贝克说道， “实际上，我不知道如果餐厅不在这里会怎样。我认为Villa Le Bec大获成功的真正关键是因为我和妻子一直在一起。 ” “我们不想把餐厅开到很多地方，尽管那样我们可能会赚得更多，但我们不想浪费我们的时间飞来飞去。中国是如此之大，那样的话可够我们飞的。实际上，我们更愿意低调一点，但这并不意味着我们没有向前发展的雄心，因为这一直是我们努力的目标。”

大厨Alan Wong， Alan Wong’s Shanghai餐厅他曾为美国总统烹饪美食；他执掌的餐厅跻身美国十佳餐厅之列；他甚至创立了一个新菜系——他就是Alan Wong，上海亦为其到来而欢欣不已。岛之味位于上海波特曼丽思卡尔顿酒店的A l a n Wong’s Shanghai餐厅由Alan Wong本人担任主厨兼老板。不是每个主厨都有资格说自己创立了新菜系，但是Alan Wong却可以在履历的第一条这么写。1992年，Alan Wong与11位夏威夷当地主厨共同创立了“ 夏威夷菜系” （HawaiiRegionalCuisine），展现在多种文化影响下形成的夏威夷独特风味，让夏威夷终于在世界烹饪美食舞台上留下了美妙的印记。除了这一卓越的成就，Alan Wong还有许多其它荣誉也同样出众。他曾受邀到白宫为奥巴马总统烹饪美食。他的另外两家餐厅The Pineapple和Alan Wong’s Honolulu也屡获殊荣，在美国的众多顶级餐厅中名列第6位。第3次幸运 Alan Wong选择在他的祖先们生活的 > 73

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together with seasonal fruits and passionfruit sauce) all feature on his ‘Taste of Hawaii’ selection. Not forgetting where he is, Wong has also created some dishes specifically for Shanghai, such as shrimp pork hash dumplings with Parmesan and sambal emulsion.

EXPLORING SHANGHAI

Aside from his own restaurant, Wong offers some good advice when it comes to dining in Shanghai. “I’m going to tell you what I tell people who come to Hawaii,” Wong says. “Even if you’re staying in a big hotel, don’t be afraid to venture out into the community. Try the little restaurants that are part of that community. That’s when the really interesting, colourful things come out. Ask your concierge, go into local areas. If you just hang out on The Bund, and stay at a hotel on The Bund, that’s limiting yourself. You should get the full range of flavours Shanghai offers.” While there’s no doubt Wong has brought an awful lot to the Shanghai dining scene, don’t think it has been a one-way street. Indeed, even some Shanghai home cooks have been teaching him a thing or two: “On the very first staff orientation day, I told them I wanted to learn from them too – and they took it to heart. One girl went home and told her mum, who gave her a dish to bring in for me. It was this leg of the duck, braised in soy sauce, and I was just blown away, I was so impressed. Then, every day, somebody would bring me something. It was very touching and a truly heart-warming experience.” Wong’s adventures aren’t likely to stop in Shanghai; in fact, it’s given him an even greater thirst for globetrotting. “You know what I enjoy about going to other cities and countries? You always learn something new,” Wong says. “The more I learn when I travel, the more I realise how much I don’t know. And, when it comes to food, if I learn something new, I incorporate it into my style of cooking. It just gets a little bit more interesting for me. Travel keeps me stimulated, keeps me inspired. I think that’s why my food has been evolving every year for the last 30 years.”

CRAIG WILLIS, MR WILLIS Australia’s Craig Willis is a fixture of the Shanghai food scene. He arrived in 2000, helped build up the Wagas chain, and now heads up eight restaurants, including the eponymous Mr Willis.

SYDNEY TO SHANGHAI

A 10-year apprenticeship on the Sydney restaurant scene working under some of the finest Australian chefs ultimately steered NSW-born Craig Willis into the arms of Shanghai, a city he’s still embracing more than 15 years after his arrival. “It was back in 2000 when it happened,” Willis says. “I was head chef at a Sydney Opera House restaurant and I had good friends who worked at Michelle Garnaut’s M on the Bund – they were always scouting for people to work in China, so I thought I’d give it a go, 74

Top to bottom: There’s an excellent selection of seafoods on offer at Mr Willis; and Willis maintains a laidback atmosphere at his eponymous restaurant, just like “going to a friend’s house”

just for a short stint. I really knew nothing about China at all; back then it was just seen as this place that not many people had travelled to yet.” While his stint in Shanghai was only meant to be brief, when Willis finished his spell at M on the Bund, a chance call to a friend (who happened to run a couple of restaurants) one day while he was “bored to bits” led to Willis joining the set up for Wagas and helping it become a major chain of casual diners.

COOKING FOR FRIENDS

Subsequently opening up La Strada and Mr Willis off the back of Wagas, Willis’ relaxed dining style continues to pervade throughout. The former is a rustic pizzeria; the latter, well, just where the man himself would want to eat, really. “Here I cook a very simple, home style of food,” Willis says. “I’m not trying to prove anything or be a superstar. It just comes from an understanding of what I can’t get to eat myself from restaurants around here. “If you go to Chinese restaurants you get things chopped and stir fried with chillis, little pieces of meat on the bone, a leg or maybe a breast of chicken,” Willis says. “There’s nowhere you can just get a really good roast chicken. A key part of the Mr Willis philosophy is that it’s cooking for friends. It’s like going to a friend’s house on a Monday night and having roast beef – it’s too simple for a restaurant in Australia, >

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地方——中国开设新餐厅。Alan Wong’s Shanghai是他创立的第3家餐厅，也是他在夏威夷之外的唯一餐厅。Alan Wong说道， “一家与我合作多年的公司跟我说上海有一个非常好的机会，我们便来到上海，对一切都很满意。现在我们真的来了。” 在上海旅行时，和许多爱好美食的游客一样，Alan Wong也被美食种类与风味之繁多深深地吸引了。 “我认为中国菜肴是烹饪的始祖之一。它是如此地伟大而古老，并且不仅只有一种菜系，而是由八大菜系组成——川菜、湘菜，各不相同。所有菜系在此汇聚一堂、交相辉映，这就是上海给我的第一印象。” 像许多国际游客一样，他们发现自己国家的“中国菜”与实际的中国菜并不一样。Alan Wong说， “我旅行时，总是在找以前在夏威夷吃过的中国菜，可是在中国并找不到。” “身在上海是一个不断学习的过程，这也是我最喜欢它的地方。人们总是在不断地发现新事物和新方法。我有¼中国血统，¼ 日本血统和½夏威夷血统。而来到上海，让我重新找回了我的中国血统。” 泛亚风味不仅Alan Wong本人拥有多元化血统，他的美食也受到亚洲和太平洋地区的广泛影响，并加入了中国食客一定会想到的肥嫩多汁的海鲜。他烹饪的菜肴不仅保留了夏威夷精髓，还针对上海食客进行了精心调整。Alan Wong说， “我常说要入‘香’随俗。我们不是在夏威夷檀香山，而是在中国，在上海。” 为了创造出符合当地口味的菜肴，Alan Wong造访了许多备受当地人喜爱的餐厅，感受菜肴中甜、咸和辣的程度。 “上海人真的很能吃辣，因为川菜让人感觉酣畅淋漓。我以前不知道食物竟然会让舌头完全麻木。这家名叫‘Wong Hot’ 的餐厅居然有这样一道菜，我完全被征服了。”Alan Wong如是说。 “然而，我们会根据这道菜和当地食材对菜品进行调整，这样一来口感和风味也会有所不同。” Alan Wong’s Shanghai不仅有从另外两家餐厅带过来然后稍加改进的招牌美食，比如姜皮鹿儿岛红鲷鱼，也有夏威夷特色赏味菜品——黄油水煮缅因龙虾，回锅酱汁牛仔骨，以及The Coconut，这些都是“夏威夷味道”赏味菜单中的精选之作。 Alan Wong还因地制宜，专门为上海创造了一些菜品，比如鲜虾猪肉饺配帕尔马干酪（Parmesan）和辣椒酱汁。探索上海除了他自己的餐厅，Alan Wong还分享了一些在上海品尝美食的好建议。 “即使住在大酒店里，也应该走进社区里面，试试社区里的小饭馆，真正有趣的、丰富多彩的美食往往就在那里。向酒店礼宾员问问路，到社区

里面去。如果你只是在外滩流连，只住在外滩的酒店，那就限制了无数的可能性。你应该去品尝上海为你准备的各种味道。” 尽管Alan Wong给上海餐饮业带来了宝贵的财富，但是这种交流并不是单方面的。其实，甚至一些普通的上海家庭厨师也曾教给他一两招。 “在员工入职的第一天，我对员工们说希望向他们学习，他们把我的话记在了心里。一个女孩回家告诉了她的妈妈，于是她的妈妈做了一盘菜让她带给我。那是一道红烧酱油鸭腿，让我印象非常深刻。然后，每天都会有人带给我一些东西，非常感人，非常暖心。” Alan Wong的旅途不会止步上海，或者说，上海之行让他对广阔的世界更加充满期待。 “你知道我为什么喜欢去其他城市和国家吗？因为总能学到新东西。”Alan Wong 说， “我在旅行中学到的越多，我就越意识到我不了解的事情还有很多。而且，说到食物，如果我把学到的新事物融入我的烹饪风格，一切都会变得更加有趣。旅行不断激发我的灵感，我想这就是在过去30年里，我的烹饪不断进步的原因吧。” 如今，Alan Wong烹饪出了美味的酱汁牛仔骨和姜味大虾，希望他的烹饪技艺在将来不断进步，更上一层楼。

大厨克雷格·威利斯， Mr Willis餐厅澳大利亚主厨克雷格·威利斯是上海餐饮业的忠实拥趸。他于2000年来到上海，随后帮助建立了沃歌斯餐饮集团（Wagas），他目前管理着8间餐厅，这其中就包括以他名字命名的Mr Willis。从悉尼到上海在悉尼的餐厅历经10年的学徒生涯后，澳大利亚顶级主厨们的谆谆教导使出生于新南威尔士州的克雷格·威利斯最终投入了上海的怀抱，并且一来就是15年多的时间。 “这要追溯到2000年，”威利斯说道， “我曾经是悉尼歌剧院一家餐厅的主厨，很多好友都在米歇尔·加诺特（Michelle Garnaut）的M on the Bund工作。他们总是到处寻觅人们来中国工作，所以我觉得我应该尝试一下，哪怕只是一小段时间。我当时真的对中国一无所知。” 然而，克雷格在上海的工作并没有计划中那么短暂。结束了在M on the Bund的工作后，克雷格在一次偶然的机会打电话给在上海经营着几间餐厅的朋友，他因此与朋友一起创立了沃歌斯餐饮集团，并将其打造成为一个重要的休闲餐厅连锁品牌。下厨为友、简单惬意威利斯在创立沃歌斯餐饮集团之后开设了 La Strada和Mr Willis，轻松惬意的就餐风格得以延续。La Strada被打造为一间充满乡村特色的披萨店，而Mr Willis则是他梦 > 75

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but it’s something that’s very special here. There isn’t a chicken shop anywhere and there are no easy jobs – everyone works hard here and, when you finish work at 9pm, this is somewhere you can have a roast chicken or a good steak and a glass of wine.”

BACKSTREET REVOLUTION

In his decade and a half of Shanghai living, Willis has seen more than his fair share of change, particularly on the food side of things. Going from a time when, according to Willis, “an Italian wasn’t Italian, it just served spaghetti, and everything was themed,” the scene has shifted – and not necessarily in the way you’d expect. “What I see now,” Willis explains, “is 50,000 or so students coming back from places like Sydney, and they’ve been going to cool markets, little groovy coffee shops and experiencing late-night food from all over the world and bringing that influence to Shanghai. “You can see how it’s happening in the backstreets. You just have take a step back from the big streets and boulevards, with their Guccis and Pradas, to find it. You have these little fashion shops, artisan bagel shops, coffee places that are no more than a window in a street selling single origin, cold drip, blah blah blah. It’s a great little revolution – Shanghai is now getting this Western-style funky thing going on. There are even interesting quirks and twists being made to the Chinese restaurants too.” Willis is also doing his bit to ensure his stable of restaurants doesn’t get left behind. “We’ve just opened a new restaurant called Pelikan,” he says, “and we have a Danish chef who makes beautiful plates that aren’t about heavy fat, but are about simple, clean flavours. I’m always looking over his shoulder when he’s doing things to see what he’s up to. He’s just got so many ideas and he’s bringing new things to the table that you just don’t see anywhere else in Shanghai. Even with coffee, he’s gone the extra mile to ensure he has better coffee than anyone else.” As you can imagine, when it comes to advice for visitors, Willis is all about going off the beaten track. “We’re taught not to trespass, but turn down into the lanes and see what the people who live there are doing,” Willis suggests. “That’s the way to experience Shanghai. You’ll find someone cooking incredible roast duck or wontons. Ideally stay somewhere where you can cook for yourself; that way you can hit the markets and buy some great Chinese mushrooms and asparagus to cook for breakfast.” One thing Willis does emphasise about Shanghai is what a pivotal stage the city is at. “The last 15 years Shanghai has been in something of a dustball of building work,” he says. “But we’re coming out of that darkness now and it’s an incredible, vibrant city with so much going on. It’s such an exciting stage to be at – working out what the next thing is going to be.” Whatever that “thing” might be, you can bet Willis will be one of the first to see it coming.

Clockwise from left: Pelikan is the newest of Willis’ eight Shanghai restaurants; a combination of relaxed and refined defines Mr Willis; Grilled asparagus and radish, charred beetroot and butter sauce at Pelikan

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想中真正的就餐之地。 “我在这里烹饪极其简单的家常美食，”威利斯说道， “我并不想证明任何事情，也不想成为超级明星，我只想为人们供应其它餐厅吃不到的美味。” “如果您去中餐馆，鸡肉都是切成碎块并用辣椒爆炒，都是小块的带骨肉，而且基本都是鸡腿或鸡胸肉，”威利斯说道， “您在其它任何地方都不可能吃到真正美味的烧鸡，而Mr Willis最重要的理念就是“下厨为友、简单惬意”。这就好像您在周一晚上去朋友家吃烤牛肉一样，这在澳大利亚的餐厅很稀松平常，但在这里却很特别。烧鸡店并非随处可见，而且这里的人们工作也非常辛苦。晚上9点下班后，您可以在这里品尝烧鸡、美味的牛排或者来一杯葡萄酒。” 街头变革威利斯在上海生活了15年，许多变革出乎他的意料，尤其是在美食方面。变革伊始，据威利斯所述， “意大利餐厅不是意大利餐厅，只供应意大利面，一切都有主题限制”，而此后所有的改变并不都是按照你所期望的方式发展。 “我现在所看到的是，大约5 万名学生从悉尼这样的地方学成归来，他们经常去市集、时尚咖啡厅，并且体验过各地的午夜美食，这些都对上海产生了影响。” “您只要回过头来看一下以古驰和普拉达而闻名的大街和林荫大道，便能体会到这种街头变革是如何发生的。这些小型时装店、手工面包圈店、咖啡店不再只是街边售卖单品咖啡和冰滴咖啡等的小窗口了。这是一场伟大的小变革，上海现在充满了西方的时尚元素，甚至中餐馆也有了一些新奇的创意和改变。” 威利斯也尽力确保他的餐厅不会落伍。“ 我们刚开了一家新餐厅叫做 Pelikan，”他说道， “我们雇佣了一位丹麦主厨，他的菜肴非常精致，而且不含大量脂肪，味道简单清新。他烹饪时，我总是在他身后猜测他究竟想干什么。他总是有很多新想法，总是能够带来新的菜式，而这些都是您在上海其它任何地方看不到的。即使是咖啡，他也比别人更进一步，要比其它任何地方的都更好。如您所想，当谈到给游客的建议时，威利斯也是如此不落俗套。 “我建议您在不打扰他人的情况下深入小巷之中，去街头巷尾体验人们的生活，这是体验上海的最佳方式。您会发现一些烤鸭或云吞的味道令人叫绝。如果您住的地方可以自己做饭的话，您也可以逛逛市场，买一些中国的蘑菇和芦笋做早餐。” 威利斯特别强调上海正处于城市发展的关键阶段。“过去15 年里，上海一直处于大规模的城市建设当中，”他说道， “上海是一个充满活力的城市，它正处在一个激动人心的发展阶段，我们很期待接下来会发生什么。” 可以肯定的是，无论接下来会有什么改变，威利斯都将是最先见证这些改变的人之一。 77

MELBOURNE BARS

RAISING THE BAR From underground gin dens to luxe cocktail bars with a view, Melbourneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s speciality bar scene has created a community of like-minded drinkers across the city, writes Trent van der Jagt

MELBOURNE BARS

墨尔本特色酒吧从栖身地下的杜松子酒吧到有绝佳视野的奢华鸡尾酒吧，墨尔本的特色酒吧聚集了这座城市中“酒趣相投”的人们，特伦特·凡·德尔·亚赫特（Trent van der Jagt）如是写道。

ny seasoned bartender worth his salt should be able to whip up a martini with sophisticated flare. On paper it may look simple – a dash of gin and a splash of vermouth – but it’s a classic for a reason. When cocktails start taking the form of $40 fairyfloss infused rainbows bellowing with liquid nitrogen, it’s the no-nonsense classics that come out on top instead. For all the flourish and theatre of the modern bar, Melbourne is still home to the quiet and sophisticated speciality bars that steer away from excessive concoctions. Melbourne’s laneway revolution allowed for all kinds of dark and moody venues to open (although not always in plain sight), acting as an escape from the city for a few hours. Inconspicuous laneways and indistinct doors hide away drinking dens that are alive with patrons brandishing glasses filled with all kinds of golden and clear liquids.

GIN O’CLOCK

The Gin Palace in the Melbourne CBD is the apotheosis of the underground gin den. Dim lighting, Victorian drapery and deep leather couches create a lavish >

任

何经验丰富的专业调酒师都能信手调制一杯精致亮丽的马提尼。纸上谈兵说来容易——倒上一点杜松子酒，冲进一点苦艾酒——但是马提尼之所以成为经典，自然是有原因的。当鸡尾酒伴随着液氮的滋滋声，摇身变成40澳元一杯的棉花糖彩虹酒时，朴实无华的经典之作反而大放异彩。现代酒吧如雨后春笋般蓬勃发展，竞争日趋激烈，但是安静雅致的特色酒吧仍然在墨尔本找到了归宿，繁琐花哨的调制酒在这里不见踪影。墨尔本的巷道改革使得各种幽暗沉郁的酒吧不断涌现（虽然有些酒吧低调难寻)，成为人们逃离城市、享受片刻清净的去处。不起眼的巷道和隐秘的大门背后，却是充满生机的酒之洞府，玻璃杯中尽是各种清澈的金色酒液，在前来光顾的客人手中轻轻晃动。位于墨尔本中央商务区的Gin Palace可谓地下杜松子酒吧之中的圣地。幽暗的灯光和维多利亚式帷幔，以及舒适的真皮沙发营造出一种奢华的氛围。这里有来自世界 >

Left to right: You can read more about Boilermaker House, pictured opposite, on page 80; meanwhile, gin is front and centre at the Gin Palace

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venue for exploring over 200 gins from around the world – one of the largest gin collections in Australia. Here the most popular drinks are the simplest ones made with top-shelf ingredients. While some visitors sip away at martinis among friends in private alcoves, the star drink on the menu is the gin and tonic. Mixing East London Liquor Co. small-batch London dry gin with East Imperial tonic water topped with nougat and a fresh sprig of rosemary, a combination of flavours is created that no gin fan in Melbourne can ignore. “The most popular drinks are always the classics,” says Ben, our bartender for the next couple of rounds. “We like to play with new ideas and create some fanciful concoctions, but people at an underground bar called the Gin Palace simply want some top-notch gin.” While it’s no surprise the Gin Palace’s weapon of choice is gin, every speciality bar in Melbourne knows the importance of stocking fine whisky. Even the Gin Palace’s floor-to-ceiling shelves of gin are generously speckled with the darker drop. But if you’ve had your fix of gin and begun eyeing off the whisky bottles, it may be time to head to the Boilermaker House instead.

WHISKY BUSINESS

When talking whisky in Melbourne, Boilermaker House is the first place every whisky lover raves about. It goes far beyond just an impressive collection of fine spirits; it’s something closer to the realisation of a whisky nut’s dream. Smooth blues tunes fill the room while devoted bartenders expertly talk through the finer points of all the bottles on show. Meanwhile, the chef behind the meatand-cheese bar slices giant slabs of cured meats into paper-thin sheets to accompany your drink of choice. >

“PEOPLE AT AN UNDERGROUND BAR CALLED THE GIN PALACE SIMPLY WANT SOME TOP-NOTCH GIN”

MELBOURNE BARS

Left to right: See inside the underground gin den known as the Gin Palace; Old Tom gins harks back to 18th-century England; bartenders at Boilermaker House aren’t afraid to experiment; flavourful bites accompany drinks at Boilermaker House

各地的200余种杜松子酒，在澳大利亚少有比肩，您可以尽情品鉴。这里最受欢迎的酒是用最顶级的酒以最简单的方式调制的。虽然大多数客人都和朋友坐在私密的角落里啜饮着马提尼，但是酒单上的明星酒却是杜松子酒琴汤尼（Gin and Tonic）。East London Liquor公司出品的小包装伦敦干杜松子酒（Small Batch London Dry Gin）配上East Imperial公司出品的汤尼（Tonic），加入奶油杏仁糖和一小枝新鲜的迷迭香，便创造出了这款口味独特的美酒，令墨尔本的杜松子酒爱好者趋之若鹜。 “最受欢迎的总是经典之作，”为我们调酒的调酒师Ben说， “我们喜欢尝试创新，调配出一些别具一格的美酒。来到Gin Palace 的客人们只想喝到最棒的杜松子酒。” Gin Palace作为一家杜松子酒特色酒吧，主打自然是杜松子酒。但是墨尔本的每家特色酒吧都知道储藏高档威士忌的重要性，甚至Gin Palace从地板一直竖立到天花板的酒架上也有不少高档威士忌。不过，当品鉴过杜松子酒，眼睛开始不断打量着威士忌酒瓶的时候，您就该转战 Boilermaker House啦。在墨尔本谈起威士忌，每个对威士忌情有独钟的人首先想到的就是Boi le rm ke r House，并且对其赞不绝口。这里不仅仅收藏着相当数量的好酒，而且几乎就是威士忌酒迷现实中的天堂。柔和流畅的布鲁斯 > 81

MELBOURNE BARS

Top to bottom: Spectacular views add to the drinking experience at Lui Bar; the Ananarama is one of many cocktails on the Boilermaker House menu

The easy-drinking attitude here is the centrepiece. Private hardwood tables coupled with exposed wooden beams, polished steel benches and tall leather stools create a fun yet sophisticated atmosphere, where whisky lovers can relax and talk all things brown-liquid gold. Coupling a nip of whisky in elegant glassware with a craft beer enhanced by a small plate of meat and cheese, all served on rustic slabs of natural wood, inevitably makes for a memorable swig. Everything works to bind and juxtapose the flavours. With craft beer on tap and over 700 whiskies, the pairings are endless. Whether you know the exact rare single-malt you’ve been searching for or are a whisky amateur, the tattooed, mustachioed and bow-tie wearing bartenders at Boilermaker House are all more than happy to offer up some suggestions to educate and, hopefully, create another whisky convert. “We all live and breath whisky. Whether we’re talking about it, drinking it or travelling to source new stuff, it all comes from our love of sharing something new and great with people,” venue manager Jack Sotti says. “And if people are wanting to learn

something new, why not go the whole hog and serve up our other loves; beer, cheese and meat.” While you may just want to enjoy what’s on offer, the bartenders are no strangers to showing flare. Citrus fruits, grapefruit, passionfruit, tequila and a trusty blowtorch can all apparently be paired with whisky for anyone looking to spice up their drink, but every fanciful concoction holds the same core value: respect the whisky.

HIGH BUT NOT DRY

Whisky dens go hand in hand with moody, wooden bars, but your drinks can often be elevated by some truly breathtaking views – and there’s no better than classy, charismatic Lui Bar. This elegant lounge on the 55th floor of the Rialto offers 360-degree views over the shimmering Melbourne night. It’s part of famed Australian chef Shannon Bennett’s celebrated Vue de Monde restaurant and boasts all you’ll ever need from a world-class bar. Dim lighting, private clusters of chaise lounges, Australianainspired food and an expert team of bartenders: it’s all designed to reflect the opulence of Gold-Rush-era >

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DRINKING LOVES COMPANY: MELBOURNE DRINKS FESTIVALS Australian Drinks Festival A festival celebrating all things beer, wine and spirits. Take a stroll among dozens of pop-up bars and sample anything that catches your eye. This is a place to try new things, learn the process and meet the locals producing the drinks you love. australiandrinksfestival.com.au July 2017 Melbourne Food and Wine Festival Wine always goes hand in hand with food, so a festival celebrating both is always worth a visit. Restaurants, bars and community venues across the city will be putting on special events, guest chefs and talks to share the love of food and wine. melbournefoodandwine.com.au March 31 – April 9, 2017 Melbourne Whisky Show For when you don’t want all that food and wine getting in the way of your whisky, this speciality event focuses solely on the love of the brown liquid gold. Carry your whisky glass around and sample as much as you like to get a feel for the world of whisky. thewhiskyshow.com.au August 2017

曲调悠然回荡，对威士忌无比热爱的调酒师十分专业地谈论着每瓶酒的过人之处。于此同时，站在美食吧台后面的主厨把大块的熏肉切成如纸一般的薄片，正好搭配您的美酒。酒吧之中最吸引人的是轻松随意的氛围。私密的硬木桌子，显露在外的木梁，光亮的金属吧台和高高的皮质凳子，有趣而雅致，威士忌爱好者可以放松地谈论关于这棕色美酒的一切。在精致的玻璃杯中倒入些许威士忌，配之以精酿啤酒，再从天然木材制成的质朴木桌上取一小盘肉和奶酪，各种味道彼此融合却又不失本真— —畅快淋漓的饮酒体验定会保留在您的记忆深处。随喝随有的精酿啤酒，700余种威士忌，您的可选搭配似乎永无穷尽。无论您心仪某款罕见的单一麦芽威士忌，抑或对威士忌一知半解，带着纹身、蓄着胡子、系着蝶形领结的调酒师都会非常愿意为您提供建议，希望让您更加了解威士忌，最好也加入威士忌信徒的行列。 “我

们的生活、甚至呼吸都离不开威士忌。不管我们是在谈论、品尝还是寻找新的品种，都是因为我们喜欢与他人分享新鲜美好的事物。”场地经理杰克·斯科蒂（Jack Sotti）说道， “如果人们想学习新的东西，我们何不与之分享威士忌让人热爱的一切呢，包括啤酒、奶酪和肉。” 虽然您可能只是想点一杯酒水单上的酒，但是调酒师常常会加点花样炫耀一下。对于每位希望饮酒经历更有趣的客人，调酒师很可能给您的威士忌加上柑橘类水果、葡萄柚、西番莲、龙舌兰酒，再自信地来个喷火表演。但是每一杯让人眼花缭乱的调制酒都有着同样的精髓——尊重威士忌。说到地下威士忌酒吧，人们总会想到幽暗的氛围和木质的吧台。但是有的时候，令人叹为观止的美景将使品酒体验得到升华。于此，LuiBar可谓举世无双，其无与伦比的格调与魅力令LuiBar在墨尔本的众多鸡尾酒吧中鹤然独立。酒吧优雅地坐落在墨尔本最高建筑丽奥图大厦（Rialto）的第55 > 83

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“IT’S THE QUIETER, MORE SOPHISTICATED BARS THAT HAVE TRULY FOUND THEIR FOOTHOLD IN MELBOURNE” Melbourne. It’s especially evident in the custom-made chandelier, by Mikala Dwyer, that crowns the bar. When it comes to creating cocktails, innovation is key here. Using only the best ingredients – and even better bartenders – the menu aims to reinvent everything you knew about drinking. Drinks such as the Macadamia Martini or Koala Stinger accompanied by noodle soup in a billy tea can feel like they’re laying the Australian theme on a little thick, but have faith in your bartender and you’ll be treated well. For a change of pace and a break from the hard spirits, Kirk’s Wine Bar on Hardware Lane brings a slice of Paris to Melbourne. Kirk’s is a bar where you can catch some peace and quiet and sample top-shelf Australian and European wines while you’re there. The space is small, but the lived-in aesthetic and knowledgeable staff make it an easygoing visit. Making its home in a historic corner building, the open, 1950s-inspired design creates an effortless balance that’s equal parts casual and old-world sophisticated. For those who really know the ins and outs of their wine, the staff behind the bar are always ready for a conversation about what’s on offer. The wines are plentiful and varied, but there aren’t so many you lose track. It offers an intelligent selection of classic and new-world wines that work together with chef Ian Curley’s (executive chef of The European) Europeaninspired menu. And where there’s great wine, you’re sure to find great food. Imported cheeses line the counter and house-made charcuterie is stacked onto plates. Melbourne has always been known as the food and wine capital of Australia, but it can sometimes be hard to navigate the influx of hole-in-the-wall cafes, pop-up restaurants and busy pubs. It’s the quieter, more sophisticated bars that have found their foothold in Melbourne’s culture, scattered among laneways, between restaurants and in some of the tallest buildings in the city. Whether you’re in a wine bar or glitzy restaurant, or settled into the traditional comfort of a intimate whisky den, it’s about enjoying the cream of Melbourne’s crop – no matter what’s in your glass.

Left to right: Enjoy a change of pace at Kirk’s Bar, on the corner of Little Bourke Street and Hardware Lane; the staff at Kirk’s are known for their wine expertise

层，能够360度欣赏墨尔本光影流离的美丽夜景。Lui Bar属于澳大利亚名厨香农·班纳特（Shannon Bennet）所创立的著名Vue de Monde餐厅，这里能满足您对世界顶级酒吧的所有期待— —幽暗的灯光，私密的躺椅，澳大利亚风味美食和专业的调酒师团队。这里的一切设计都为了反映淘金热年代富有的墨尔本生活。至于鸡尾酒，LuiBar最注重的是创新。原料皆是最佳，调酒师更为专业，酒吧的目标则是颠覆您以往对品酒的全部认知。澳洲坚果马提尼（Macadamia Martini）或考拉利刺（Koala Stinger）搭配盛在铁茶罐中的面条汤，是不是感觉有点太“澳大利亚”了？但是相信您的调酒师吧，他一定不会让您失望的。若是品尝够了烈酒，想要换个节奏，不如来到哈德维尔巷（Hardware Lane）的 Kirk’s Wine Bar，这间葡萄酒吧给墨尔本带来了一抹法国风情。在这里您能够享受到安静平和的氛围，还能品尝诸多澳大利亚和欧洲的顶级葡萄酒。空间虽然较小，但极具生活美感，再加上广闻博识的店员，定会让您的到访轻松舒适。酒吧坐落在一座历史悠久

的角楼里，20世纪50年代开放的空间设计毫不费力地营造出一种平衡感，既轻松随意，又有着旧世界的雅致。对于真正了解葡萄酒来龙去脉的客人，吧台后的店员愿意随时与您切磋交流一番。这里的葡萄酒种类丰富，但是不会让您不知所措。酒吧为客人选择了一些经典的新世界葡萄酒，非常适合搭配主厨伊恩·柯利（Ian Curley，The European餐厅的行政总厨）烹制的欧洲风情美食。有好葡萄酒的地方就一定有美味的食物。柜台上摆放着一系列进口奶酪，盘子中摆满了餐厅自制的熟食。一个个小盘子中，从新鲜的当地牡蛎到马苏里拉奶酪应有尽有，全都是法式美食，让人百吃不厌。一直以来，墨尔本被称为澳洲的美食美酒之都，但有时很难准确定位数量繁多的咖啡馆、快闪餐厅和酒馆。而这些更安静雅致的酒吧则植根于墨尔本文化，点缀在巷道之中，穿插在餐厅之间，或栖身于高楼大厦。不管您置身于葡萄酒吧之中，还是来到炫目的餐厅酒吧，又或者习惯于传统舒适的地下威士忌酒吧，不论您杯中所盛何酒，关键在于享受墨尔本的精髓。 85

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PARK CITY

The green spaces of Beijing aren’t just havens for locals to escape the hustle and bustle; they’re also inextricably intertwined with China’s history, writes Adrian Mourby

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eijingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s splendid parks are a legacy from its long imperial history. Most were used for recreational or religious purposes, and all were gradually opened to the public after the fall of the last emperor in 1917. Best known of all is the Summer Palace, a masterpiece of Chinese landscape garden design covering almost three square kilometres, most of which is given over to Kunming Lake. The oldest is Beihai with its dramatic White Dagoba offering panoramic city views, while the Temple of Heaven in Tiantan Park is a dramatic religious complex surrounded by almost rural parkland. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no wonder the people of Beijing spend so much time in these beautiful oases. >

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THE SUMMER PALACE HISTORY

In the 13th century the engineer Guo Shoujing created a great Western Lake that would provide water for the new imperial palace in Yanjing (present-day Beijing). Early in the 16th century the Zhengde emperor built a modest palace on the banks of this Western Lake and turned the shoreline into an imperial garden. And in 1749, the Qianlong emperor created a great Summer Palace and two new lakes here to celebrate the 60th birthday of his mother. These three lakes collectively became known as “Kunming Lake” after Kunming Pool built by Emperor Wu (r. 141–87 BC) for his Navy. The earth excavated from the expansion of Kunming Lake was piled on top of Jar Hill to create Longevity Hill. Emperor Qianlong’s Summer Palace was completed in 1764 but in 1860 much of it was destroyed by British and French troops at the end of the Second Opium War. A lot of restoration was carried out between 1884–95 by Empress Dowager Cixi, who infamously diverted 22 million silver taels intended for upgrading the Imperial Navy to reconstruct this palace for her 60th birthday, including, most notoriously, the marble “boat that don’t float” on Kunming Lake. The Summer Palace was only ever intended for day visits. It lacked sufficient accommodation for the emperor and his retinue, or anywhere for his administrators to work. After the abdication of Puyi, the last emperor, the Summer Palace was opened to the public.

WHAT TO SEE

The park is full of symbolism. The three islands in Kunming Lake – Nanhu, Tuancheng and Zaojiantang – represent the three divine mountains that, according to Chinese mythology, confer immortality. Many architectural features within the grounds were built to recall areas of China. The Phoenix Pier represents Lake Tai on the Yangtze delta plain; the Wangchan Pavilion resembles the Yellow Crane Tower, a sacred Taoist site in Wuhan; and the Suzhou Market Street is designed to imitate the commercial streets of Suzhou and Yangzhou. Along the lake itself the Long Corridor, at more than 700 metres in length, should not be missed for its 8,000 images of birds, flowers and landscapes.

WHAT TO DO

Arrive the slow way by Dragon boat from Beijing’s Zizhuyuan Pier along the newly dredged – and aptly named – Long River. Trips take two hours and the price varies from RMB 50-120. On Kunming Lake, take out a pedalo (RMB 60-80 for six people) or hire a rowing boat by the Marble Ship (RMB 40). In front of the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity look out for statues of the qilin, an ugly creature with cloven hooves, antlers and scales that is said to only appear on earth in times of great harmony. Or try counting the doglike lions along the graceful 17-Arch Bridge (if you lose patience, it’s 544). For a souvenir, buy Empress Cixi mugs, whose designs display a Warhol touch. > 90

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Clockwise from left: The scale of the Summer Palace is truly remarkable; a peaceful corner of Kunming Lake; Chinese Dragon Guardian; wall of Buddhas on the Hall of the Sea of Wisdom

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Clockwise from left: The Miniature Western Heaven Hall; Five Dragon Pavilion; Beijing locals have been able to wander Beihai Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bridges since 1925, when the park opened to the public

B EI J IN G PA R K S

BEIHAI PARK HISTORY

Beihai Park is one of the oldest and best-preserved ancient imperial gardens in China. It was laid out in the Liao dynasty (916-1125 AD) and was extended to its current size by Emperor Qianlong (r. 1735-1739 AD) of China’s last dynasty, the Qing. Its name means North Sea and its basic “lake and three islands” structure follows a pattern established by Qin Shihuang, first emperor of the Qin dynasty (r. 221-206 BCE). The belief that there were three divine mountains to the east of China that could endow immortality led many emperors to seek them out, but Qin Shihuang gave up and decided to build his own by digging a great lake and piling up the dislodged earth into three islands. This pattern was repeated in imperial gardens across China for centuries. In 1266 AD Kublai Khan received Marco Polo here in his “Palace in the Moon” on top of Jade Flower Island. Four hundred years on, in 1651, the White Dagoba was built on the site of that palace by Emperor Shunzhi (first emperor of the Qing dynasty) to show his belief in Buddhism as a force for unification among China’s many ethnic groups. In 1925 the Republic of China opened the park to the public.

WHAT TO SEE

You need at least two hours to see Beihai Park properly. Start with the current White Dagoba (the third to be built on this site because of previous earthquakes). It’s nearly 36 metres high and hung with 14 bronze bells. This is the highest point in Beihai Park and offers views across to the Forbidden City – when the Beijing smog clears. Built in 1402, the Nine-Dragon Wall Screen is 27 metres long and composed of 424 glazed colour tiles. On each side of the screen are nine huge, dramatic coiling dragons in blue, yellow and red. The Miniature Western Heaven Hall is the biggest imperial pavilion in China and the walled Circular City at the southwestern corner of Beihai Park contains Chengguang Hall with its precious white jade statue of Buddha. In front of the hall is a huge urn made of jade on a marble plinth with a circumference of 5 metres. It was used by Kublai Khan to serve wine. The Hall of Beneficent Causation is remarkable for being covered with 455 identical blue glazed tiles, each depicting the Buddha.

WHAT TO DO

Have your photo taken in period costume as emperor or imperial concubine outside the Nine Dragon Screen (RMB 30) or take a ferry to Five Dragon Pavilion (RMB 20). The emperors used to fish from this point. Walk across the marble Zhishan Bridge to the Eastern Shore Scenic Area and the Hao Pu Creek Garden, created in 1757 and considered Beijing’s prettiest. It takes the form of a deep valley secluded from society. Be sure to have a meal in Fangshan Restaurant located at the northern shore of the lake. It was opened to the public the same year as the park by a chef who had formerly worked for the imperial court. > 93

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TIANTAN PARK HISTORY

Tiantan Park was constructed from 1406 to 1420 with a temple at its centre. It was positioned 2km south of the Forbidden City and accessed by four gates through a wall that excluded the populace. This court complex was planned by the Yongle Emperor, who also designed the Forbidden City. It was extended and renamed Temple of Heaven during the reign of the Jiajing Emperor in the 16th century. Here the emperor carried out what everyone considered his most important function: to pray for good harvests. This event took place twice a year when the whole court would proceed from the Forbidden City to camp within the complex, wearing special robes and abstaining from eating meat. Tiantan Park was occupied by Anglo-French troops during the Second Opium War and again during the Boxer Rebellion of 1900. With the downfall of the Qing in 1911 the Temple of Heaven was left untended and several of its halls eventually collapsed. In 1914, Yuan Shikai, briefly president of Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new republic, performed a prayer ceremony at the temple, as part of an effort to have himself declared Hongxian Emperor of China. He was never crowned and died soon after.Â In 1918 the temple was turned into a park and for the first time open to the public.

WHAT TO SEE

You need at least an hour and a half to do justice to Tiantan. The park consists of three remarkably beautiful and highly individual religious structures painted in dazzling blue, red and gold. The Hall of 94

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Prayer for Good Harvests is a triple-gabled circular building, made entirely of wood and held together without screws or nails. The present is actually an exact reconstruction of the original because in 1889 the hall was struck by lightning and burned down. The Imperial Vault of Heaven is surrounded by a smooth circular Echo Wall that can transmit sounds over large distances. The Circular Mound Altar, where the emperor prayed for favourable weather, is surrounded by a resonant guardrail, which was supposed to help his prayers rise to the heavens.

Tai Ji sessions that take place around the park at dawn and watch the ballroom dancing in the Long Corridor (a park-only ticket at RMB 10 will also give you access to the Long Corridor). Here you can also listen to local musicians who come to play the stringed guqin or the sheng pipes for their own pleasure. As soon as the park opens (8am) see if you can get to try out the Three Echo Stones on your own. The first will echo what you say once, the second twice and the third three times. Unfortunately this feature is very popular so it’s usually an incoherent din. Get there early.

WHAT TO DO

Cross between the Imperial Vault and the Hall of Prayer by the Vermilion Steps Bridge, a 360-metre-long raised walkway that slowly ascends symbolically from the vault to the Hall of Prayer. Seek out the semi-rural open spaces where old men gather with their caged crickets and birds to chat under the cypress and juniper trees. Join in the

Clockwise from top left: Pagoda in the Temple of Heaven complex; the Intricate detail on the Temple of Heaven’s facade is a pleasure to examine up close; a long view of the Temple of Heaven itself

FO O D FE S TI VA L S

从浪漫的星空晚餐到汇聚一堂的世界顶级名厨，以下澳大利亚美食节精彩纷呈，不容错过。 From long candlelit dinners under the stars to guest appearances from the world’s biggest chefs, here are the food festivals worth travelling to in Australia Words by Lisa Perkovic

BAROSSA GOURMET WEEKEND SOUTH AUSTRALIA

South Australia’s famous wine region opens its doors, barrel halls, kitchens, vineyards and gardens to the public in this three-day event that draws epicureans from all over. The Barossa has long been associated with bold reds and a penchant for German food, courtesy of its heritage settlers, but the Barossa Gourmet Weekend is designed to showcase the flourishing food scene beyond pretzels and bratwurst. A Gourmet Trail will take you across the region, hopping from gourmet breakfasts and long lunches to masterclasses with the wine makers and afternoon tapas with live music sessions. A Gourmet Shuttle runs on a continuous loop between events, so leave the car behind. There are plenty of boutique hotels and B&Bs in the region, but at just an hour and a half from Adelaide, it’s a doable day trip. September 2017, barossagourmet.com

harves 丰收季节

s t season Good weekend: The Barossa is just an hour-and-a-half drive from Adelaide, so you can access all the rural wonders of the Barossa Gourmet Weekend in the time it often takes to cross a city in peak hour!

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芭萝莎美食周末南澳大利亚州在为期3天的美食盛会中，南澳大利亚州著名的葡萄酒产区芭萝莎将广纳宾客，向来自各地的美食爱好者展示其酒窖、厨房、葡萄园和花园。芭萝莎一直以醇厚的红酒享誉世界，而且得益于德国移民流传下来的文化遗产，您还能品尝到德国美食。美食路线（Gourmet Trail）贯穿整个活动区，您可以在享受美味早餐和悠闲午餐之后，参加酿酒师的大师课堂，然后欣赏着现场音乐表演，来一份午后小吃。您可以将自家车停在场外，只需搭乘美食班车（Gourmet Shuttle）便可在各个活动场所之间循环往返。虽然附近有很多精品酒店和家庭旅馆可供住宿，但是活动地点距离阿德莱德（Adelaide）仅一个半小时车程，完全可以当天往返。活动日期：2017年9月。 97

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NOOSA FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL QUEENSLAND

Combine the coastal Queensland town with a reputation as a hotspot for those who appreciate the finer things in life, more than 50 of Australia’s greatest chefs and a backdrop that’s just downright beautiful and you have one seriously stylish three-day festival. Expect the creme de la creme of the culinary scene – and the social scene – to descend upon Queensland’s Sunshine Coast for three days of feasting. Long lunches along famous Hastings Street, exclusive meals on Sir Richard Branson’s private Noosa island Makepeace, and cocktail parties on the sand of Main Beach are a few of the hot tickets. You’ll get to sample fare from some of Sydney and Melbourne’s biggest names, like Peter Kuruvita and Luke Mangan, alongside local chefs who have a dedicated following nationwide. May 2017, noosafoodandwine.com.au 98

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努沙美食美酒节昆士兰州努沙是昆士兰州的一个海边小镇，钟爱高品质的生活家们对其倍加赞誉。美食美酒节为期3天，在完美无瑕的动人景致中，50余位澳大利亚顶级名厨为您奉献格调高雅的节日体验。若是期望一睹顶级名厨或悉尼社会名流的风采，就来昆士兰州的阳光海岸（Sunshine Coast）享受这3天的美好时光吧。在著名的黑斯廷斯街（Hastings St reet）悠闲地享受午餐，在理查德·布兰森爵士（Si r Richard Branson）的私人岛屿Makepeace岛上专享独家盛宴，在努萨的主海滩（Main Beach）上参加鸡尾酒会，这些都是努萨美食美酒节中的焦点活动。除了拥趸者众多的当地主厨们，您还能品尝到悉尼和墨尔本最负盛名的主厨——比如彼得·库鲁维塔（Peter Kuruvita）和卢克·曼根（Luke Mangan）所烹制的美味。活动日期：2017年5月。

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ORANGE F.O.O.D WEEK

NEW SOUTH WALES The rolling hills and historic streets of the NSW Central Tablelands’ most famous town are the setting for this 10 to 12-day food-and-wine showcase, now in its 25th year. Orange is a four-hour drive from Sydney but a world away from the hustle and bustle. The wide, quiet streets of the main town are lined with historic buildings now housing providores, wine bars and country chic design stores. During F.O.O.D Week, usually held in mid-April, the town’s population swells to bursting. Tickets sell out in minutes, with local and international visitors booking months in advance. Traditionally marking the start of the festival are the Friday Night Markets, where more than 50 stalls take over Robertson Park in the centre of town. Local restaurants, cooks, winemakers and pastry gurus set up around communal dining tables and live music. FORAGE is undoubtedly the hottest ticket of the festival – the roaming six-hour tasting session takes place across several local vineyards, on a 3.6km walk through the countryside. Buses drop participants at the first tasting venue, meeting them at the finish several hours later. The informal trail is dotted with tasting tents, each showcasing a dish from a local restaurant and several wines. In the past, highlights have included Mandagery Creek venison, chicken rillettes from local award-winning restaurant Lolli Redini and wine from heavyweight Philip Shaw. April 2017, orangefoodweek.com.au

奥兰芝F.O.O.D美食周新南威尔士州奥兰芝是新南威尔士州中部平原上最负盛名的小镇。在连绵起伏的山峦和历史悠久的街道之中，第25届为期10 -12天的美食美酒节即将启幕。奥兰治虽然距离悉尼仅有4小时车程，但却是一片远离城市喧嚣的世外桃源。主城区的街道宽阔而安静，伫立两旁的古老建筑中遍布着商贩、酒吧和别具乡村特色的店铺。美食周通常在4 月中旬举行，届时将有大量游客蜂拥而至。国内外游客提前数月便开始预订，以至于美食周开幕活动的门票总是在数分钟内就被抢购一空。周五夜市是标志着美食周开始的传统活动，位于小镇中心的罗伯 1 02

逊公园（Robertson Park）内搭起50余个摊位，现场有音乐表演助兴，当地的餐厅、主厨、酿酒师和糕点大师在公共餐桌旁大展身手。美食行（FORAGE）无疑是节日期间最热门的活动，赏味时段长达6 个小时，您可以在绵延3.6公里的乡村步道上信步漫行，到访多个当地的葡萄园。公交车把客人带到第一个赏味地点，几个小时以后再到最后一个赏味地点等待客人。美食路线轻松随意，一路上不时出现几个赏味帐篷，每一个都展示着某一家当地餐馆的特色菜品以及几种葡萄酒。与美食周同时进行的还有奥兰芝农夫集市，您可以在丰富的农产品中随意徜徉，选购果酱、蛋糕、熏肉和调味品等带回家去。活动日期：2017年4月。

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袋鼠岛艺术盛宴南澳大利亚州南澳大利亚州的袋鼠岛拥有世界上最神奇的一些产品。从最新捕获的海鲜到稀世罕见的蜂蜜，大自然毫不吝啬对这片土地的馈赠。今年，袋鼠岛的两个重要活动：美食盛宴和艺术盛会，首次合体成为一个为期 2个月的超长艺术盛宴。节日活动将在春天拉开序幕，以赞颂袋鼠岛的自然资源和艺术氛围为宗旨，并将围绕着两大主题展开丰富多彩的活动。当地主厨将掌勺共享晚餐（Shared Table），充分展示当地食材，此外还有诗歌朗诵、舞蹈表演和艺术家对话等艺术活动。活动日期：2016年9月至10月。

KANGAROO ISLAND ART FEASTIVAL SOUTH AUSTRALIA

South Australia’s Kangaroo Island is home to some of the world’s most amazing produce. From fresh seafood to rare strains of heritage honey, it’s nature’s smorgasbord. For the first time, two of the island’s major events, Feastival and Art Feast, are combining forces for a two-month-long event. Kicking off at the start of spring, the Art Feastival celebrates the island’s natural assets alongside its artistic community, with a series of events designed around the two. Shared-table dinners will be hosted by local chefs, showcasing local produce, but also involving artistic elements like poetry readings, dance performances and artist conversations. September – October 2016, kangarooislandartfeast.org.au 103

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MARGARET RIVER GOURMET ESCAPE, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

With a line-up akin to a roll call of the world’s greatest chefs, this three-day event has long been known to bring in the superstars of the culinary world, and it’s no surprise given the beauty of the setting. Beach and vineyards are never too far apart, so you can rise early for a surf before wining and dining away the rest of the day. In special cases you don’t even need to leave the beach to indulge in food from the world’s heavyweights. The inaugural Audi Gourmet Beach BBQ takes place at Castle Bay Beach, where teepees, lounge chairs and sofas are set up on the white sand. Chefs like Movida’s Frank Camorra, Rick Stein and Guillaume Brahimi will whip up food for this very grown-up beach barbecue. MRGE is famous for these elaborate set-ups, whether it’s a feast in a karri forest, or a long seafood lunch aboard the Kimberley Quest II as it cruises Geographe Bay. This year the star of the show is set to be queen of the kitchen Nigella Lawson, but there are plenty of master classes, dinners and tastings – with more than 40 chefs – that are worth attending. November 18-20, gourmetescape.com.au 104

玛格丽特河美食美酒节西澳大利亚州 11月即将迎来为期3天的玛格丽特河美食美酒节，汇聚几乎全世界所有顶级名厨而闻名遐迩。从珀斯驱车南下3小时便可抵达景色迷人的玛格丽特河地区。海滩和葡萄园相距不远，您尽可早起到海边冲浪，然后在美食与美酒之中度过余下的时光。在特殊活动中，您甚至不需要离开海滩便能享受到世界顶级厨师奉献的美食。开幕活动奥迪美食海滩烧烤在城堡湾海滩（Castle Bay Beach）举行，白色的沙滩上有舒适的锥形帐篷、休闲椅和沙发供

客人们休息。Movida餐厅的弗兰克·克莫拉（Frank Camorra）、里克·斯坦（Rick Stein）和纪尧姆·卜拉希米（Guillaume Brahimi）等主厨将掌勺此次海滩烧烤。玛格丽特河美食美酒节以精心安排的活动而闻名，您可以来到桉树森林（Karr）享受盛宴，也可以搭乘金伯利探索 I I 号（Kimberley Quest II）豪华游轮，领略地理湾（Geographe Bay）的美景并享用海鲜午餐。今年的明星主厨是“厨房女神”奈杰拉·劳森（Nigella Lawson），此外40余位主厨将奉上大师课堂、晚宴和品酒会等诸多活动，精彩纷呈，不容错过。活动日期：2016年11月18日至20日。

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SAMPLE FOOD FESTIVAL BANGALOW NEW SOUTH WALES

There’s a reason some of Australia’s top chefs have been making the sea change to northern NSW. The beautiful beaches, rolling countryside and ample farmland are a world away from the hustle and bustle of big cities. When Sydney chef Katrina Kanetani opened her Town restaurant back in 2012, she brought big buzz to the small hinterland town of Bangalow and will be on-site at the Bangalow Showground when the one-day Sample Food Festival comes to town. Try tasting plates from 28 local restaurants, check out celebrity cooking demonstrations and stock up on local produce – the region is one of the world’s largest producers of macadamias, so look out for cakes, butters and bags of freshly roasted nuts. September 2017, samplensw.com

班加洛美食品赏节新南威尔士州一些澳大利亚顶级名厨来到新南威尔士州北部，给这里带来了巨大变化，他们自有其理由——这里远离大城市的熙攘喧嚣，取而代之的是美丽的海滩、起伏的山峦和广袤的农田。2012年，悉尼主厨卡特里娜·卡奈特尼（Katrina Kanetani）来到班加洛创立了Town餐厅，在这座内陆小城引起了一阵轰动。今年，她也将来到为期1 天的班加洛美食品赏节的展览场。您可以品尝28家当地餐厅的赏味美食，观看明星主厨演示烹饪过程，也可以购买当地出产的食材— — 这里是世界上最大的澳洲坚果产地之一，建议您选购蛋糕、黄油及新鲜烘焙的坚果。活动日期：2017年9月。 105

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HIGH COUNTRY HARVEST VICTORIA

Melbourne may have a monopoly on cool laneway bars and eateries, but Victoria’s relatively undiscovered north-west region is home to a countryside that bears a bountiful harvest. That bountiful harvest is celebrated in the form of this seven-day festival that takes place annually across rural towns like Beechworth, Milawa, Rutherglen, Falls Creek and Bright. Pay homage to the local produce by foraging and feasting with local chefs, providores and farmers. The annual Village Bonfires events are always a big drawcard and definitely worth adding to you schedule should you decide to pay a visit. May 2017, victoriashighcountry.com.au

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高原区丰收节维多利亚州若论酷味十足的巷道酒吧和小餐馆，非墨尔本莫属，但是谈及一派丰收景象的乡村，维多利亚州西北部地区则无与伦比。从比奇沃思（Beechwor th）、米拉瓦（Milawa）、鲁瑟格兰（Rutherglen）、佛斯奎克山（Falls Creek）到布莱特（B r i g ht），庆典将持续7天，欢庆大丰收。当地主厨、商贩和农民均以当地食材烹制佳肴，以示感恩。一年一度的乡村篝火（Village Bonfires）活动始终是庆典的重头戏，您可以在篝火边烤羊肉，边在星空下品尝美酒。活动日期：2017年5月。

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澳大利亚美食节南澳大利亚州为期 8 天的澳大利亚美食节将带您以最美味的方式领略阿德莱德。在著名的中心市场（Central Markets）品尝澳大利亚顶级厨师制作的美食，参加马特·威尔金森（Matt Wilkinson）、罗德尼·邓恩（Rodney Dunn）和安得烈·麦康奈尔（Andrew McConnell）等主厨的大师课堂。届时，您将看到大批游客等待聆听芭萝莎知名人士、美食节赞助人麦姬·比尔（Maggie Beer）以及国际著名主厨和当地商贩发表讲话。活动日期：2017年4月 30日至5月7日。

TASTING AUSTRALIA SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Featuring everything from tours of Adelaide’s famous Central Markets with top Aussie chefs to masterclasses with the likes of Matt Wilkinson, Rodney Dunn and Andrew McConnell, this eightday festival does an excellent job of taking over the City of Churches in the most delicious way. Should you make your way there in 2017, expect to find crowds of hungry tourists waiting to hear the words of seminal Barossa local and festival patron Maggie Beer, international chefs and local producers alike. April 30 – May 7, 2017, tastingaustralia.com.au

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www.platinumrestaurantgroup.com

ristorante italiano

I C O NI C | M OD E RN | AU STRALIAN

在悉尼最具标志性的多功能及活动场地中庆祝属于您的美丽时刻黑鸟位于悉尼情人港的正中央，可将情人港的海景净收眼底。周末更是可以看到情人港夜晚的烟火盛宴。其餐厅更拥有最标志性的“澳式大餐”，澳洲袋鼠肉和精品澳洲葡萄酒。

Open 7 days 11am till late Weekend Breakfast 8.30am 02 9283 7385

Balcony Level, Cockle Bay Wharf, Sydney

www.blackbirdcafe.com.au

在casa餐厅品尝最纯正的意大利美食，并享受悉尼海港的户外美景。餐厅更是拥有传统比萨火炉，烘培出最具意大利特色

Open 7 days 11.30am Weekend Breakfast 9am 02 9279 4115

www.lovecasa.com.au

Meat District Co.为悉尼带来激动人心的餐饮新体验，以“从牧场到餐盘”为灵感的菜肴令人欲罢不能。的风味比萨。再配上一款充满艺术气息的 CASA 鸡尾酒, 或与朋友和家人来一杯葡萄酒，享受最好的视觉盛宴和美味佳肴。

The Promenade, King Street Wharf, Sydney

集结号已吹响，所有肉食爱好者请前往国王街码头（Kin g St Wa rf）。肉食狂欢即将开幕，这里有澳大利亚特级精选牛肉，让人不禁回想起牧场养殖时期牛肉的真实纯正。我们可为您直接提供澳大利亚当地牧场的纯天然草饲牛肉（不含激素、类固醇和抗生素）。

Open 7 days a week Monday – Sunday : 11am till Late 02 9299 9762

Shop R3, 11 Lime Street King Street Wharf

www.meatdistrictco.com.au

Wechat: Platinum Restaurant Group

MOGANSHAN

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竹林深处法国山居

FRENCH

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Extraordinarily tasty, deliciously unexpected things are happening deep in the verdant landscapes of Zhejiang province. From foie gras to caviar, Le Passage Mohkan Shan isn’t your typical countryside fare, discovers Alicia Miller 在浙江省的竹林深处，与品味非凡的美食不期而遇。艾丽西娅·米勒（Alicia Miller）发现，从鹅肝酱到鱼子酱，莫干山里法国山居与传统的乡村美食有着天壤之别。

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ucked high in the tranquil hills of Moganshan, coddled by dense bamboo forests and flourishing tea plantations, is a little bit of France. Or perhaps more than a little bit: Le Passage Mohkan Shan, a self-styled ‘Hotel Francais’ two-and-a-half hours from Shanghai and just an hour outside of Hangzhou, certainly wouldn’t be out of place in Gascony or Provence. It’s not just thanks to the stately environs – the honey-and-cream-hued, chateau-esque exterior; the chandelier-bedecked dove-grey bedrooms with mottled wooden floorboards; the manicured gardens brimming with roses in every shade of pink (an astonishing 10,000 of them bloom here every spring). Nor can the pervading Gallic vibe be put down to the throwback European pursuits with which its guests lazily fill their days – the world-beating bird-watching and rounds of golf by day, or the brandy-sipping and dart playing in the atmospheric cigar lounge by night. All these things help, of course, but what really makes Le Passage Mohkan Shan ooze Gallic charm has everything to do with what it puts on its plates. Here, you’ll not find the beggar’s chicken or west lake fish with vinegar sauce that’s so typical of the Hangzhou region: instead, super-fresh local ingredients such as wild boar or sweet summer berries meet classical French know-how in an unusual, thrilling fusion that quickens the foodie pulse.

UNE PETITE HISTOIRE

So how exactly did this small slice of France, with all its Gallic culinary prowess – freshly shucked oysters, perfectly chewy macarons – end up here in the rural Hangzhou countryside? It’s all down to the owners, Frenchman Christophe Peres and his Hong Kong-born wife Pauline Lee, who have married European and Chinese traditions since they opened the hotel in 2012. During the early 20th century, leafy Moganshan was >

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莫干山静谧的山谷里，苍翠茂密的竹林与绿意盎然的茶园中，安然栖息着些许法国风情。法国山居（Le Passage）自诩为“法国酒店”，浓郁的法国氛围无所不在。外部环境豪华而庄重，法国古堡风格建筑呈现出蜂蜜和奶油色调；鸽灰色卧室饰有富丽豪华的吊灯和色彩斑驳的木质地板；每年春天，10,000余株玫瑰在修剪整齐的花园中竞相绽放，铺叠出一片错落有致的粉色海洋。法国山居距离杭州仅1小时车程，距离上海也只有2.5小时车程。客人们在这里悠闲度日，重现旧时欧洲生活，白天尽情欣赏各种稀有珍鸟的美丽姿态，或者悠闲地打上几轮高尔夫；夜晚在别具情调的雪茄吧里点燃一支雪茄，一边品尝白兰地，一边投掷飞镖。然而，法国山居洋溢着的法国魅力不仅源于上述种种，关键还在于其卓越的法式美食。这里没有叫花鸡和西湖醋鱼等杭州地区的特色餐品，而是采用野猪肉和夏日浆果等超级新鲜的当地食材，结合经典法式烹饪技巧制成令人惊艳的非凡美味，令美食爱好者不由自主心跳加速。山居由来这座弥漫着法国风情的酒店以及卓越的法式餐品— —新鲜去壳的牡蛎、完美软韧的马卡龙，到底这些是如何来到杭州乡村的呢？故事开始于2012年，来自法国的司徒夫（Christopher Peres）和出生于香港的妻子李雪琳（Pauline Lee）将欧洲与中国 >

Clockwise from top: No detail is overlooked in the Deluxe Room; Le Passage Mohkan Shan has begun to develop a wide range of French and Chinese regional specialties, such as jam; View from Deluxe Room with Terrace; The bathrooms are rich with French influence

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the go-to summer escape for the elite expat classes, who would ditch the oppressive heat of the cities in favour of the cooler, more serene hills – so it made perfect sense for Peres and Lee to rehash the era’s indulgent Euro vibe when they began to design the 40-room hotel. The modern – generous windows, a heated outdoor saltwater pool, flat-screen TVs in each bedroom – is met at every turn by romantic vintage touches: clawfoot bathtubs, intricate cement tiles, brass fittings, antique rugs and a cosy library complete with tomes on everything from botanicals to fashion. More often than not, the traditional and innovative combine in a distinctly Le Passage cross-cultural twist. For example, China has been growing pears for 3,000 years, and the autumnal fruit is prevalent throughout Moganshan’s rolling landscapes. But owner Christophe had the idea for a very un-Moganshan use for them: they go into making his own double-distilled pear brandy, inspired by > 114

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的传统融合在一起，创立了法国山居。20世纪初，绿意盎然的莫干山是外籍精英们的避暑胜地，他们逃离令人压抑的闷热城市，寄情于此间清爽静谧的山麓。司徒夫和李雪琳在设计这座拥有40间客房的酒店时，决定重现那个年代奢宠的欧洲风情。酒店充满了现代感，窗户宽敞而亮堂、温暖的室外泳池加入了海盐、每间客房里均配有平板电视；同时又处处弥漫着浪漫的古典气息，室内配有虎爪腿浴缸、铺着色彩斑驳的瓷砖、装饰着黄铜饰品和古朴典雅的地毯、舒适的图书馆中藏书丰富，从植物到时尚包罗万象。在法国山居，传统与创新往往以其特有的跨文化风格结合在一起。例如，中国种植梨树已逾3,000余年。每年秋季，莫干山连绵起伏的山丘都结满累累硕果。但是司徒夫处理梨子的方式却与众不同，他从祖父的食谱中得到灵感，使用传统的蒸馏设备把梨子双重蒸馏，制成独特的白兰地梨酒。后来，他开始采用其他当地食材，利用传统法式烹饪技巧制作独特美食。美食云集您可能已经猜到，这里最多的就是美食。食材自然品质优良，法国山居严格选取本地有机食材，包括在自有茶园中采摘的茶叶，但是关键在于利用这些食材作出美味的餐品来。这里的美食样式多得足够让您松松腰带，松软的马卡龙点缀着以玫瑰花瓣所制成的糖渍蜜饯、带有泥土香气的茶熏鸭以茶园新叶慢熏而成、奶油般柔滑细腻的鹅肝酱搭配新采竹笋制成的焦 >

BOOK IT Le Passage Mohkan Shan is located on Xianrenkeng Tea Plantation in Ziling Village, Moganshan Town, Deqing. Double rooms cost from RMB 3,600 for a one-night stay, or from RMB 2,800 for a two-night stay lepassagemoganshan.com.cn

Clockwise from top: Private dining in the Pool Pavilion, a perfect spot for an intimate dinner; Forest walks are a great way to fit in some exercise while getting a nature fix; A spread of Chinese cuisine including congee, dumpling and sweet bread; Roast chicken with seasonal vegetables picked fresh from the surrounding land

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his grandfather’s recipe and prepared in-house using a traditional still. Combining other local ingredients with French culinary traditions was the natural next step.

HUNGER GAMES

As you may have already guessed, you won’t go hungry here. And while Le Passage is rigorous about using locally and organically sourced produce – including the tea from its on-site plantation – that wouldn’t mean a thing if what they made with it wasn’t also delicious. Thankfully, there’s plenty on the menu here to get you reaching for your stretchy pants: fluffy macarons topped with candied rose petals from the garden; earthy duck smoked with tea from the plantation; and creamy foie gras garnished with caramelised bamboo shoots grown in the adjoining forest, to name but a few. The swish Armand David Restaurant, complete with vintage-styled tiles and wood-fringed chairs, has a terrace view of the tea plantation that’s good enough to eat – if only you weren’t so busy focusing on the pigeon in truffle sauce, or the spreads of in-house cured bacon, sausages, rillettes and saucisson that acclaimed chef Toyo prepares with local organic meats. (They also sell house-prepared foie gras to take home with you, so if you can’t finish the plate, don’t panic). A pot of plantation-picked brews are ready any time you’re in need of a soothing cuppa; and the poolside restaurant is there for ‘snacks’ of roasted lamb chop and fluffy baguette whenever you manage to muster an appetite again. And to enjoy with all of this, bottles of the best in French natural and biodynamic wines are available at a click of the fingers, from the luscious whites of Crozes-Hermitage in the Rhone Valley to juicy Medoc red from Bordeaux. Don’t leave without touring the atmospheric stone-walled wine cellar – it recalls the moody underground caves of France’s great wine regions, minus the centuries-thick layers of dust. If you fancy a change of scene, the hotel also owns atmospheric Old Cinema Restaurant, located on a Moganshan mountain peak in a 1970s stone movie house, complete with terrazzo floors and eye-pop art. This cool, laid-back setting is all about gourmet pizzas (some topped with local bamboo and chicken), Frenchstyle charcuterie, and knock-out creamy desserts, like homemade ice cream or tiramisu. And, as you’d expect of anywhere serious about its French food and drink, rounds of knee-weakening Grand Marnier-laced cocktails.

SINK YOUR TEETH IN

Not done with the food? Unlike with so many diningfocused hotels, there’s more to do for food lovers here than just eat. You can get truly involved with the >

Clockwise from top: The underground cellar features natural French wines and Le Passage’s very own pear brandy; French cheese is always on the menu; as is the European delicacy, caviar

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糖竹笋。Armand David餐厅充满时尚气息，同时又装饰着古朴典雅的地砖和木质餐椅，在阳台上可以将茶园的可餐秀色尽收眼底。备受赞誉的主厨Toyo为您精心烹制黑松露调味酱配鸽子肉，以及采用当地有机肉自制的熏肉、香肠、熟肉酱和红肠（也可以购买酒店自制的鹅肝酱带回家去，所以不用担心美食太多吃不完）。酒店准备了用茶园自产茶叶泡制的热茶，您可以随时喝上一杯舒缓精神。无论什么时候又有了胃口，可以来到池畔餐厅，享受烤羊排和松软的法式长棍面包等小吃。还有最好的法国天然生物动力葡萄酒与之相配，既有罗纳河谷产出的甘美克罗兹—埃米塔日白葡萄酒，也有波尔多产出的鲜美多汁梅多克红葡萄酒。来到法国山居，就一定要到隐秘的石墙酒窖转上一转，仿佛置身于法国著名葡萄酒产区幽然的地下洞穴，只是缺少了沉积数个世纪的灰尘。若想换个环境，不妨来到山顶的老影院餐厅感受别样氛围。老影院餐厅位于上世纪 70年代一座老石头建筑内，这里曾经是一座电影院，铺有图案装饰的水磨石地板，到处洋溢着令人惊奇的艺术气息。这里的披萨 >

Tea time The indigenous camellia sinensis plant that produces Moganshan tea is famed for its complexity and aromas. Try it at the hotel in three expressions: Green: Fresh and grassy, this is the most popular local tea style. To keep it from wilting or oxidising, it’s dried as soon as it has been picked. Yellow (mogan huang ya): A rare, ancient tea style – the specialty of Moganshan – that’s very labour intensive to produce. Unlike green tea, it’s slow-dried, or even roasted, to finish, for a more light, gentle flavour. Black: A medium-bodied, fermented green tea dried in fresh mountain air. Unlike green or yellow teas, it’s fully oxidised and wilted.

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making of the grub – the highlight being the rare chance to take part in the premium spring tea harvest. From March to May, Moganshan’s misty hills shimmer with verdant camellia sinensis tea plants coming into bud – and the whimsically named ‘Valley of the Fairies’, where Le Passage Mohkan Shan is nestled, has some of the finest quality plant in the region. In a bid to ensure the tea is at its very best, this ‘first flush’ (or first budding) of tea leaves is the only one that Le Passage Mohkan Shan harvests all year (the idea is, each subsequent batch that grows on the bushes is of a lesser quality). So visit during this time and you’ll not only have a tea expert guiding you through the eight-hectare private plantation, showing you how to pick leaves destined for the various green, black or the signature yellow brews, but you’ll also have the opportunity to taste the tea at its very freshest. Following your tour, splaying out on the hotel’s vast terrace, draining a pot of the fragrant, delicate 118

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yellow tea (mogan huang ya), is a fine way to spend an afternoon – expect to catch wafts of the nearby army of rose bushes coming into bloom. Come mealtime, you’ll feast on myriad tea-inspired dishes: chef Toyo’s foie gras with tea jelly or green tea mousse cheesecake, perhaps. You can even give your body an antioxidant boost with a slather of tea seed body or hair oil, made from the leaves of the very same tea plants. And if you can’t visit in spring? Le Passage Mohkan Shan has a year-round culinary alternative: joining a class in the on-site cookery school. In a 90-minute session you’ll learn how to prepare some of France’s most iconic dishes, including the likes of foie gras terrine, parmentier duck or chocolate fondant. Should it finally come to the point where you really can’t manage another bite, there’s always the chance to keep busy with something that doesn’t have to do with food. Work on your swing (and work off some of those calories) at one of two nearby 18-hole golf courses. Or, take to the surrounding hills for an exhilarating 4x4 off-roading trip or a vigorous hike or cycle (the hotel will happily lend you a bike for tackling the excellent trails). Within minutes of lunch you can be watching local farmers harvest rice paddies or tearing along steep dirt tracks weaving through bamboo forest. Surely that’s more than enough to work up a fierce appetite before you’re due back at Le Passage Mohkan Shan for dinner.

Clockwise from top: Summer days are best spent relishing the heat by the pool; Local organic vegetables are used in all dishes; The Antique Rose Garden is a nod to the resort’s French heritage

Get to know the chef Chef Toyo Koda has all the credentials you’d expect of a chef cooking world-class French cuisine. He may be Japan-born, but he trained in Lyon before working his way through numerous high-profile French restaurants, including Hotel Plaza Athenee in Paris. Having been named one of Asia’s top chefs in the 2013 San Pellegrino Awards for his work at French restaurant Franck in Shanghai, he was a natural fit to join the Le Passage Mohkan Shan team in 2015.

和法式熟食滋味无穷，还有自制冰淇淋和提拉米苏等不可思议的奶油甜品。丰富活动在法国山居除了享受美味，还有丰富多彩的活动。您可以真正地参与制作美食，而其中最难得的机会莫过于采摘优质春茶了。每年 3月到5月，随着漫山的茶花绽放，雾气弥漫的莫干山似乎也被渲染了一层微光。法国山居坐落之处有一个异想天开的名字“仙人坑”，正是当地最为上乘茶叶的产地。为了保证所采茶叶品质最佳，法国山居全年只采摘茶树的第一茬嫩芽，也称为“春摘”。若您在这段时间内到访法国山居，将有茶叶专家引领您走过占地8公顷的私人茶园，向您展示如何采摘用以制作绿茶、红茶或特色黄茶的茶叶，而且您还有机会品尝到最为新鲜的春茶。采摘之后回到酒店，在宽阔的阳台上舒展身体，品味一壶幽香精致的莫干黄芽，这可谓是度过午后时光的好方法。玫瑰花正在不远处盛放，或许还会有几片花瓣随风倏然飘落。到了进餐时间，您将品尝到众多以茶叶为灵感的餐品，其中或许有主厨Toyo制作的鹅肝酱配茶叶果冻或绿茶慕斯芝士蛋糕。您甚至可以厚厚地涂上一层用茶籽制成的身体油或发油，享受一次强效抗氧化护理。若是不能在春天到访呢？没关系，您可以参加法国山居全年开设的烹饪课堂，在90 分钟的课程中学习制作最具法国特色的餐品。要是真的再也吃不下一点美食了，您可以去体验一些与食物无关的活动。在附近的 2个18洞高尔夫球场中任选其一尽情挥杆、到环绕四周的山丘上进行一场激动人心的越野之旅，抑或来一次畅快淋漓的徒步旅行或单车骑行。也可以来到稻田，观看当地农民收割水稻，或者置身竹林，挑战蜿蜒而过的陡峭泥土路。不管怎样，在赶回法国山居吃晚餐之前，有足够多的活动保证您一会儿胃口大开。 119

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ARTY SIDE 朱雀画廊向澳大利亚人们证明了中国的创意人才团队与经济人才团队一样的强大 Vermilion Art has been showing Australians that China is as much a creative force as an economic one, writes Constantina Pilatos

t’s a Thursday night and Hickson Road, in Walsh Bay, is quiet. The only exception is the group of 30 to 40 people gathering around a single storefront on the sidewalk. They’re waiting for the crowd inside to dissipate so they can enter. It’s the opening night of Vermilion Art’s Foreshadow exhibition, and a successful one at that. Over 150 people have turned up to the small-scale private art gallery to catch a glimpse of, and perhaps purchase, works by Chinese artists Tianli Zu, Guan Wei and Yang Xifa, which have never before been displayed in Australia. “I guess what I wanted to achieve with starting this gallery is to introduce Chinese contemporary art to Australia and show a different side to Chinese culture,” says Yeqin Zuo, owner of Vermilion Art. “Thanks to China’s boom, so many people know about the economy, finance, housing side of Chinese culture, but people should know there is another side. Art has been a big part of China’s society since ancient times.” The space is only small, but it’s making its mark on Sydney’s art scene thanks to Zuo. Although she was in the medical profession for most of her life, she always had a genuine interest in art. It wasn’t until later in life that she went to the College of Fine Arts, now known as UNSW Art & Design. It was here she learnt about art history and gallery design. While studying and frequently visiting local galleries, Yeqin realised there was a distinct lack of representation for contemporary Chinese artists in the Australian market. It’s something she wants to change. >

Left to right: Tianli Zu's Nuwa is Pregnant II large-scale work on display; Opening night of Foreshadow at Vermilion Art

周

四夜晚，沃尔什湾（Walsh Bay）的希克森路（Hickson Road）一片寂静。唯一的声响来自路边一个小店，约三四十人围在门外。他们在等里面的人群散去，好腾出空间让他们进去。这是朱雀画廊《含沙射影》（Ve r m i l i o n Art’s Foreshadow）艺术展的开幕之夜，这次展览非常成功。150多人来到这个小规模的私人美术馆，只为欣赏或者购买中国艺术家祖天丽、关伟和杨熹发的作品，这些作品在澳大利亚展出尚属首次。 “我想，我创立这个画廊是为了把中国当代艺术介绍到澳大利亚，向人们展示中国文化不同的一面。”朱雀画廊馆长左业勤说， “得益于中国的繁荣，很多人都对中国文化中的经济、金融和房产领域有所了解，但人们也应该知道中国文化还有另外一面。自古以来，艺术就是中国社会的重要部分。” 画廊规模尚小，但是在左业勤的努力下，它正在悉尼艺术舞台上留下印记。左

业勤一生中大部分时间都在医学领域工作，但她真正感兴趣的是艺术。她直到中年才来到新南威尔士大学艺术与设计学院（旧称美术学院）。正是在这里，她学习了艺术史和画廊设计。在学习和频繁访问当地画廊的过程中，左业勤意识到，在澳大利亚市场上代理中国艺术家的画廊非常稀少，她想要改变这一现状。 “我想创建一个画廊，把中国艺术家带到澳大利亚来展示他们的作品。我问几位艺术界的朋友觉得这个想法怎么样，他们说这个主意简直太棒了。”左业勤说， “我认为这个小画廊可以帮助当地市场更多地了解中国艺术，摆脱一提中国艺术就让人想到传统书法的局限。这件事不仅对于澳大利亚市场实属罕见，对于中国市场也是如此。” 朱雀画廊很受欢迎，每个展览的参观人数不断增加，越来越多的中国艺术家希望来此展示作品。本次展览展出的是三位中国著名艺术家的作品， “东方”与他们的艺术家生涯有着千丝万缕的联系。 > 121

“When I spoke to a few friends in the art world about if they thought a gallery that brought artists from China to Australia to present their works was a good idea, they thought it was a great idea,” Yeqin says. “I think this little gallery can contribute to educating the local market to get to know Chinese art a little more and get past the traditional calligraphy that everyone associates with Chinese art. This work is not only new to the Australian market, but also to the Chinese market.” It has certainly been well received, the turnout growing with every exhibition, and more and more artists from China wanting to present their works. The Foreshadow exhibition featured three renowned artists from the East who have had a close relationship throughout their careers as artists.

TIANLI ZU How were you initially introduced to art? Actually, I’ve never really given this much thought. Since I was little I liked to explore different things. From very young, I had the privilege of learning traditional Chinese calligraphy from my grandfather. It was a really calming way to escape reality, to draw and shut the mind off. You can really get lost in the process of making art. What is the first piece of art you recall making? Back when I was a kid, ink and paper for calligraphy was quite expensive. I remember tracing characters in the sand with my fingers, over and over again. When Chinese holidays would come around I would help my grandmother with paper folding and cutting. You decorate food and cakes with the 122

paper cuttings, for good fortune. It was just what you did around the house. Were you professionally trained from young? When I was 15 I went to art school. I just couldn’t stop making art, so it was the best thing for me. It was here I trained for four years in the Western ways of artmaking. It was a very competitive environment that really enhanced your skills. Only 39 kids in the whole of China were accepted into the art program; it was a real honour and privilege to get into the school. The course is very extensive. You still do the normal classes like maths and literature, but on top of that we’d have classes specifically based on sketching, colour or composition, for example. Because I mainly do animation, installation and light projection works, most people don’t know about my classical training. I was a finalist in the Archibald Prize last year and I painted the former director of the Art Gallery of New South Wales, Edmund George Capon (AM, OBE), and people were shocked. They didn’t know I could paint. >

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校的课程设置非常广泛。你既要学习数学、文学等常规课程，还要学习素描、着色、构图等专门课程。由于我主攻动画、装置艺术和光投影，因此大多数人对我的传统训练并不了解。我去年入围了阿切博尔德奖（Archibald Prize）的决赛，为新南威尔士州艺术馆（Art Gallery of New South Wa l e s）的前任董事埃德蒙·乔治·卡彭（Edmund George Capon AM, OBE）画了一幅画，人们为此感到震惊。他们根本不知道我还会画画。我的绘画技能来自于我在艺术学校的学习。

Get to know the director Yeqin Zuo has always had a passion for the creative, but before studying art and starting her gallery, Yeqin was in the medical field. She has followed Chinese and Australian art for over 30 years and has watched as the relationship between the two cultures evolved. Today, she is completely immersed in the art world with the opening of Vermilion Art. Clockwise from left: Tianli Zu proudly standing in front of her installation; Vermilion Art buzzing with people on opening night; artists Yang Xifa and Tianli Zu catch up at the exhibition

祖天丽您最初是怎样接触到艺术的？实际上，我从来没有过多考虑过这件事情。从小时候起，我就喜欢探索不同的东西。很小的时候，我就跟着我的爷爷学习中国传统书法。书法能够让人平静地逃避现实、集中注意力，完全沉浸于艺术创作之中。您还记得，您创作的第一件艺术作品是什么？当我还是个孩子的时候，练习书法用的纸墨非常昂贵。我记得我经常用手指反反复复地在沙子上写字。每当有中国传统节日的时候，我都会帮我的奶奶折纸和剪纸。人们在屋里忙活着，用这些剪纸装饰食物和糕点来祈求好运。您从小就接受过专业训练吗？我15岁的时候去了艺术学校。对我来说，艺术创作就是最好的事情，我常常沉浸其中，无法自拔。我在这里接受了4年的西方艺术创作方法的训练。激烈的竞争氛围真的有助于提高一个人的技能。这个艺术项目只接纳39名来自中国的儿童，我很荣幸能够进入学校学习，这是一个真正的荣誉。学

生活中有哪些对您有深刻影响的一些经历？在我2 0岁出头，还在上大学的时候，我去了山西。我们去了中国文化和文明的发源地——黄河。在那里，我与民间艺术家们坐在一起，跟他们学习剪纸的技巧。他们大约七八十岁，经验非常丰富。他们与我们分享了某些剪纸图案背后的重要故事，因此我学到了很多隐喻以及某些标志和符号背后的秘密。这些经历将我塑造为今天的艺术家，我在进行艺术创作的时候仍然会回想起这段回忆。这些回忆深深地印在我的心里，如同我的爷爷教我书法一样，剪纸有时对我来说就像用剪刀创作书法。我非常荣幸有这些记忆可以借鉴。从某种意义上说，我的艺术作品其实来源于我记忆的片段。在创作艺术作品时，您有自己的一套方法吗？根据作品规模的不同，创作一件艺术作品可能需要2至6个月时间。对我来说，所有事情都来源于直觉。Nüwa is Pregnant II的棉纸长度近4.5米，而宽度刚刚超过1米。我只是从一个点开始裁剪。我会盯着一件作品看很长时间，直到它在我的头脑中鲜活起来。我不会画任何东西，一切都是随心所欲，我所画的都来源于我思我想。但这不仅仅是纸张的物理裁剪，光线也是艺术作品的重要部分。我经常考虑观众会怎样观看这幅作品以及棉纸上的形状会形成怎样的阴影。

关伟您在澳大利亚本地观众中很受欢迎。您是怎样被这个国家认知的？一切都是机遇。1988年，澳大利亚艺术家们向中国的艺术院校询问，中国艺术家是否有意来澳大利亚展示他们的作品。来自堪培拉和霍巴特的教授和董事们看了我的作品，他们认为我的作品与他们之前看到的作品完全不同。他们喜欢我的作品并邀请我来霍巴特做驻地艺术家。我在霍巴特的两个月里创作了3 0 幅画作。然后我回到了中国，之后又被邀请到堪培拉做驻地艺术家。随后，我去了很多地方做驻地艺术家，包括位于悉尼的当代艺术博物馆（Museum of Contemporary Art）。我认为建立这些关系对于艺术家来说非常 > 123

CHINESE A RT

Have you had any experiences in your life that have really shaped you? When I was at university, in my early 20s, I went to the Shanxi province. We went to the Yellow River, where Chinese culture and civilisation originated. I was sitting with folk artists and learning techniques of paper cutting from them. They were about 70 or 80 years old, so they were very experienced. They shared all these stories that were significant to certain papercutting patterns, so I learned a lot of metaphors and secrets of what certain signs and symbols mean. That really shaped me as an artist today as I still recall those memories when making art. These resources are embedded in me. Like my grandfather teaching me calligraphy, paper cutting is sometimes like calligraphy with knives for me. I’m really lucky to have these memories to draw upon. Really my artworks are in some way a fragment of my memories. Do you have a set method when creating pieces of art? Depending on the scale of the piece, it can take anywhere between two to six months to create a work of art. For me, everything comes intuitively. With “Nuwa is Pregnant II”, the cotton paper is almost four-and-a-half metres long and just over one metre wide. I just started cutting from one point. I look at a piece of work for a very long time until it comes to life in my mind. I don’t draw anything. It’s all free hand; I create what’s in my

mind. But it’s more than just what is physically cut out of the paper. Light plays a big part in the art work. I’m always thinking about how the viewer would see it and what shadows the shapes in the cotton would make.

GUAN WEI You’re very popular with local audiences here in Australia. How were you first introduced to the country? It all came down to chance. In 1988 Australian artists were asking art schools in China for any interesting Chinese artists to come and present their works Down Under. There were professors and directors from Canberra and Hobart who saw my work and thought it was different to anything they had previously seen. They liked my work and invited me to do an artist residency in Hobart. In the two months I was in Hobart I produced 30 pictures. After that I went back to China until I was invited to another artist residency in Canberra. I ended up completing many artist residencies, including one at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sydney. I think it’s important for artists to establish these relationships so that they can present a piece that another country’s audience might not be familiar with, and also for artists to be introduced to new cultures. Having travelled between Australia and China since the 1980s, do you find both countries have influenced your artmaking? I learned traditional calligraphy from my father, who was a Beijing opera singer. So the artistic culture back in China was, and has always been, a part of my life. But when I came to Australia for an artist residency in Hobart, I was introduced to native flora and fauna that I had never seen before, and that was reflected in my work. Australia has a strong culture. Do you think contemporary art interacts differently with audiences? When creating contemporary art there’s a lot of concept work that needs developing behind each piece of artwork. I usually do a lot of research and reading on the topic or themes of my works. But in saying that, you also have to have very good technique to convey the message you’re trying to emit. Technique builds up the work and helps communicate with the audience.

YANG XIFA Where did you begin your formal training as an artist? I did art throughout all of high school, but I began formal training at Tianjin Art College. 1 24

CHINESE A RT

重要，他们可以展示其他国家的观众并不熟悉的作品，同时也能接触到新的文化。从20世纪80年代开始，您一直往返于澳大利亚和中国之间，这两个国家对您的艺术创作有什么影响吗？我父亲曾经是京剧演员，我跟着他学习传统书法。所以中国的艺术文化曾经并且一直是我生活中的一部分。但当我来到澳大利亚霍巴特做驻地艺术家时，接触到了澳大利亚本土的动植物，这些都是我之前不曾见过的，我把他们都反映在作品中。澳大利亚有深厚的文化底蕴，尤其是澳大利亚原住民，都深深影响了我。您认为当代艺术与观众的互动有所不同吗？在创作当代艺术时，每件艺术作品背后都有很多概念需要开发。我通常做大量与我的作品有关的话题或主题的研究和阅读。但不得不说，传达想要传达的信息也需要非常高超的技巧。技巧创造作品，也有助于与观众互动。

杨熹发

It was there I did my Masters. My university specialised in traditional Chinese art. In the academic Chinese system you learn about all traditional art pioneers, from the Qing dynasty to household names. So you learn a lot about analysing art. What pieces of work changed your perspective on art? There was one really important event in my life that always comes back to me. When I was travelling in Japan I visited an art exhibition that was showcasing works by Pablo Picasso. From my trained eye I just didn’t think there was anything that special or unique about his work. I realised then that I wanted to create artworks that had never been seen before. That’s probably why I’m so drawn to contemporary art. When I saw work by Anselm Kiefer, I found them touching and memorable. There was a connection between me and the artwork, and that’s what I wanted to do with my work. Do you conceptualise your work before physically starting on it? The concept behind each piece of art is the most important thing to me. I will change materials to suit my concept, not the other way around. My work should have a very strong story behind it and should establish an emotional dialogue with the viewer.

您作为艺术家的正式培训是从哪里开始的？我整个高中期间都在进行艺术创作，后来在天津美术学院开始接受正式培训。同样是在天津，我获得了硕士学位。我的大学以中国传统艺术见长。在中国的学术体系下，从清朝到现在家喻户晓的艺术家，你会了解到所有传统艺术的先驱。因此在分析艺术方面也会受益良多。哪些作品改变了您对艺术的看法？我时常想起生命中一件非常重要的事。我在日本旅游时曾参观过一个艺术展，展览的是巴勃罗·毕加索的作品。虽然我经过艺术培训，但我认为这些作品中没有那么特别或者独特的地方。那时我意识到，我想要创造史无前例的艺术作品。这可能就是我如此沉迷于当代艺术的原因。当我看到安塞尔姆·基弗（Anselm Kiefer）的作品，我深受感动，难以忘却。他的作品和我之间产生了一种联结，我期望自己的作品也能如此。您会在着手创作之前先进行构思吗？对我来说，每件艺术品背后的概念是最重要的。我会根据概念选择合适的材料，而不是反其道而行之。我的作品背后应该有一个非常震撼的故事，应该与欣赏者建立一种情感的对话。

Clockwise from top: Guan Wei's Ocean No.1 sculpture; Yang Xifa in deep conversation about what influences his art; Wei's Ocean No.3; Wei says his art is influenced by both China and Australia

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BY NATURE Mother Nature is celebrated through Ole Lynggaard’s Blooming Collection. Yellow and pink gold fine pieces are adorned with delicate diamond-encrusted leaves and just-about-to-flower buds. Blooming bracelet in 18K yellow gold with coral and diamonds $6,450, olelynggaard.com

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REVIVAL MODE Since 1962, the name Super KonTiki has been synonymous with reliability and precision among divers. Today, the first diver’s watch with a rotating bezel from the House of Eterna is a timekeeping icon. Eterna Super KonTiki $3,450, lionbrandsaustralia.com.au 自1 9 6 2 年面世以来，超卓康蒂基（ S U P E R KONTIKI）凭其优异的可靠性和精准性成为高性能潜水表的代名词。今天，绮年华（ETERNA）所推出的首款拥有旋转表圈的潜水腕表，已经成为日常和潜水使用的经典款型。售价：3,450澳元。

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Back street The artist GucciGhost, aka Trouble Andrew, was invited by Alessandro Michele to create a special project for the Fall Winter 2016 Fashion Show. The result? A mix of the past and present with a techno canvas backpack designed by Michele and customised by GucciGhost’s street art. GucciGhost canvas techpack $2,025, gucci.com/au 艺术家GUCCIGHOST，受邀亚历山德罗·米歇尔（ALESSANDRO MICHELE）之邀，为古驰2016 年秋冬时装秀创作了一个特别系列。最终的成品？GUCCIGHOST的街头艺术与米歇尔的秋冬系列设计紧密结合，融为一体，是过去与现在的融会贯通。背包售价：2,025澳元。

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H I G H E R L I F E // M O T O R I N G

The Pack’s New Alfa Former Top Gear host Jeremy Clarkson once said you can’t call yourself a petrolhead until you’ve owned an Alfa Romeo. Strangely, it’s one of the very few opinions proffered by the presenter that didn’t result in controversy. The reason? Because it’s basically true. To love an Alfa – traditionally – has been to put the aesthetics and handling of a vehicle ahead of practicalities such as reliability or working electrics. But all that is set to change. Alfa are still masters of the visceral driving experience – the noise, the sensations, the tactile interior – but now they’ve conquered the reliability issue too. In the new Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio Verde, the power unit is essentially a six-cylinder variant of the twin-turbo V8s found in your local Ferrari showroom. It may be a couple of cylinders down on its Scuderia siblings, but the 2.9-litre twin-turbo V6 still sings with the urgent tone you expect from a sporty Italian motor. This blisteringly quick yet relatively affordable Alfa is the closest thing you can get to a factory-built four-door Ferrari. It’s not just the engine that’s endearingly Italian, of course. It’s the entire aesthetic too. The Quadrifoglio is an exceptionally good-looking machine. The touches aren’t all show though. This is a genuinely light and fast car, coming in at just 1,524kg. By way of comparison, the BMW M3 with dual-clutch transmission tips the scales at 1,560kg, while the Mercedes-AMG C63 S weighs a positively hefty 1,725kg. The passion for design carries through from the exterior to the interior. Everything swoops or bends with a nod to visual flair over practical solutions. The steering wheel is slender, the stitching on the leather seats impeccable, and the curve of the dashboard cool enough to make the tiny sat-nav screen seem like a fair trade. Of course, a BMW feels more solid and an Audi is better laid out inside. As you sit in those cars you can enjoy the pragmatic pleasure of knowing you made a sensible choice. But why should life be sensible? Life should be vibrant. Life should be Le Corbusier chairs, Philippe Starck lemon squeezers, Arco lamps and incredible Alfa Romeos – like this one. Richard Ryan is an Australia-based journalist and car enthusiast.

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SPECS Price Australian pricing to be announced Engine 2,891cc, V6, biturbo petrol Transmission 8-speed, automatic, rear-wheel drive Weight 1,524kg Top speed 307kmh C02 198g/km Dimensions 4,630mm x 1,873mm x 1,426mm

前《巅峰拍档》主持人杰里米·克拉克森 (JEREMY CLARKSON)曾经说过， “只有拥有了阿尔法·罗密欧(ALFA ROMEO)，才能自称为汽车狂热者”。想知道原因？从传统意义上来说，热爱阿尔法的人对于车辆美感和操控性的追求一定远超其实用性，如可靠性或电气系统等。但所有这一切终将改变。令人陶醉的声浪、极致的感观体验、无与伦比的内饰触感，阿尔法始终是驾乘体验的王者。现在，可靠性问题也得以解决。全新GIULIA QUADRIFOGLIO VERDE车型将搭载六缸发动机，该款发动机为法拉利 V8双涡轮增压发动机的改款。2.9升V6双涡轮增压发动机定能满足您对意大利运动型汽车的期望。轻踩油门，发动机转速快速提高，特别是在2,500-5,000转/分的中程转速区间内，最大扭矩可达600NM。为意大利人所钟爱的当然并不只是发动机，还有车身的整体美感。QUADRIFOGLIO 车型格外美观，车身采用与同系列其他车型相同的流线型线条，但却搭配更大的进气格栅、更大的排气管以及碳纤维扰流器，整体风格更具侵略性。这是一款真正轻巧迅捷的车型，车重仅 1,524千克。从外观到内饰都充盈着设计的激情，细节设计注重视觉风格，实用性则退居其次。纤细的方向盘，缝合无可挑剔的真皮座椅以及仪表板的曲线充满时尚韵味，与小巧的卫星导航屏幕相得益彰。生活应是充满激情。拥有一台不可思议的阿尔法，如此才是生活。

H I G H E R L I F E // W I N E

Brown velvet For some, a brandy digestif is the best part of a meal. And, more often than not, that brandy is probably a Cognac, hailing from the French region of the same name. Cognac is indeed a fine spirit: the finest, some would say. It’s silky, smooth and warming with intense flavour and a wonderfully rich, fruity nose that lingers long after it has left the palate. Hennessy, Remy Martin, Courvoisier, Martell… many Cognacs are household names. But who wants a household name? If you’re going to be a true brandy connoisseur, Cognac is far too obvious. Instead, you need to be drinking Armagnac – brandy’s much older and infinitely more French sibling. Armagnac’s home is Gascony in south-west France, land of foie gras and many other deliciously ducky dishes, not to mention truffles and black Gascon pork. It’s a place that time has pretty much forgot, full of fortified towns and medieval villages. With a heritage of 700 years, Armagnac pre-dates Cognac by some 150 years, and whereas the latter is made by gargantuan companies, the Gascons make their spirit in comparatively small batches, with virtually all houses family-owned. By comparison, while four brands pretty much own all Cognac, Armagnac is made by 400 different houses. Its flavour matches the rugged spirit of the Gascony region too. The saying goes that if ‘Cognac is silk, then Armagnac is velvet’. While Cognac is distilled twice for smoothness, Armagnac is distilled only once, meaning you still get those robust notes and ‘personality’. It also gets more ‘oak time’ than Cognac, which only adds to its allure. That the oak in question mostly comes from the surrounding Gascon forest simply adds to its sense of terroir. The fact Armagnac has not been to Cognac’s finishing school is definitely a good thing – it’s a raw beauty, bursting with figs, prunes, vanilla, chocolate, toffee, pepper… and that’s just in one mouthful. Okay, that may be a slight exaggeration – but not an excessive one. Alex Mead is a London-based food and beverage writer.

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“With a heritage of 700 years, Armagnac pre-dates Cognac by some 150 years”

Rare drop: Armagnac (above) is a distinct kind of brandy produced in Gascony (below)

有人认为，一餐之中最美妙的莫过于一杯白兰地餐后酒。而且，这杯餐后酒通常是产自法国干邑（COGNAC）地区的干邑白兰地。干邑确是上等佳酿，其酒如绸缎般顺滑，入口温暖，口感强劲，丰富的水果香气令人惊艳，流连于唇齿间。但是想要成为真正的白兰地鉴赏家，干邑二字显得太过平淡无奇了。只有同样产自法国，历史却悠久得多的雅文邑白兰地（ARMAGNAC）才足够有格调。雅文邑产自法国西南部加斯科尼（GASCONY），这里盛产鹅肝酱、松露和加斯科尼黑猪肉等多种美食。雅文邑拥有700年历史，比干邑还要早150年左右，以小批量酿制，几乎所有酒坊都归家庭自有。相比之下，四大品牌近乎囊括了全部干邑，而雅文邑则由 400家各不相同的家庭酒坊精酿而成。雅文邑的口感与加斯科尼人粗犷坚毅的品质相得益彰。坊间流传着这样一种说法， “若将干邑作绸缎，雅文邑则堪称天鹅绒。”在酿制过程中，干邑需经过两次蒸馏以实现顺滑的口感；而雅文邑只蒸馏一次，更多了几分强劲与“个性”。雅文邑在橡木桶中陈年的时间也长于干邑，时光也来为其添加几许魅力。橡木主要取自于加斯科尼周围的森林，令雅文邑平添几分风土气息。与干邑不同，雅文邑从不对收口精雕细琢，这绝对是一件好事。雅文邑充满原始的美感，只需轻轻一抿，丰富的味道便喷薄而出。1936年，雅文邑产区获得原产地品名质检（AOC）认证，用以酿酒的葡萄品种被限定为10种，其中最为常见的有白玉霓、白福儿、鸽笼白和巴科等品种。瓶装雅文邑一般为葡萄酒混酿，酒标上标示的是最年轻酒液的年龄。VSOP陈年4年以上，XO 6年以上，而HORS D’AGE 则10年以上。诚然，陈年愈久，葡萄酒品质愈佳，但是年轻葡萄酒也足以留下深刻印象。对于雅文邑而言，绝妙之处在于不管选择哪个品牌，都足以为您带来一段美妙体验，因为，这世界上根本没有平淡乏味的雅文邑。

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Boys in blue

Change up your work attire with a splash of blue 2

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Giorgio Armani Spring 2017 Menswear

1. Kingsman, $1,727, mrporter.com 2. Kingsman, $1,728, mrporter.com 3. Persol, $377, persol.com 4. Salvatore Ferragamo, $995, ferragamo.com 5. Maison Michel, $790, michel-paris.com 6. Salvatore Ferragamo, $1,590, ferragamo.com 7. Lanvin (top), $73, lanvin.com, Dunhill, $ 108, dunhill.com 8. Salvatore Ferragamo, $2,250, ferragamo.com 9. Wooster + Lardini, $170, lardini.it 10. Brioni, $826, brioni.com 11. Salvatore Ferragamo, $775, ferragamo.com 134

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Getty Images

Effortless dressing

Fashion-forward trends can now be found outside the fashion show, on the streets 1. ChloĂŠ, $2,110, chloe.com/au 2. Pierre Balmain, $1,725, balmain.com 3. Saint Laurent, $1,205, ysl.com/au 4. Charlotte Chesnais, $588, charlottechesnais.fr 5. Alexander McQueen, $POA, alexandermcqueen.com/au 6. Gucci, $1,285, gucci.com/au 7. Elizabeth and James, $145, elizabethandjames.us 8. Dion Lee $427, dionlee.com 9. Valentino, $2,580, valentino.com/au 10. Illesteva, $247, illesteva.com 11. Todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, $425, tods.com 136

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P Les

PRODUCT FOCUS

ar f u ur bu ms T

千呼万唤始出来

lenc 00m es 2 l $48

At long last

It has been 70 long years since Louis Vuitton last released a fragrance and, to make up for lost time, the luxury fashion house have released seven new scents making up the Les Parfums Louis Vuitton collection. Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud spent months travelling five continents in search of exotic and rare materials that ignite unexpected emotions when their aroma is breathed in. 历经70年的漫长等待，奢华时尚品牌路易威登终于再次推出香水产品——路易威登LES PARFUMS系列。该系列由7 款全新香水组成，以期填补在此期间的产品空白。首席调香师JACQUES CAVALLIER BELLETRUD历时数月时间，足迹遍及五大洲，努力寻访各种珍稀调香素材，为您开启情感的香氛之旅。9月开售，330澳元起售。 Available from September. From $330, au.louisvuitton.com

a Les P r fum s Co ntre 00m M oi 2 l $48 0

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Three’s a charm 三生万物

Giorgio Armani Spring 2017 Menswear

1. Tom FordOud Wood Deodorant Stick $75 2. Tom Ford Oud Wood Eau de Parfum 100ml $440 3. Tom Ford Oud Wood Soap Bar $55

从男孩到男人

Having a signature scent makes your presence known, whether you’re in a boardroom or out for dinner with friends. So picking one that suits you is imperative, as is complementing the fragrance with pairing products to enhance it. Tom Ford’s extensive collection of scented products will leave you oozing with the rare and distinctive smell of one of the rarest ingredients in a perfumer’s arsenal, Oud Wood. Try this trio. tomford.com 无论在会议室还是与朋友外出就餐，标志性的香味都能彰显您的存在感。因此选择一款适合您的香氛势在必行，同时将香氛与其他产品搭配使用更可使香味更加浓郁、香气更加持久。TOM FORD种类繁多的香氛产品系列中特别添加稀有成分 — — 乌根木（OUD WOOD），将使您散发出独一无二的特殊气息。快来体验一下香水、香皂和香体膏的组合吧！TOM FORD乌根木止汗香体膏，售价：75澳元；TOM F O R D 乌根木香水，1 0 0 毫升装售价：440澳元；TOM FORD乌根木香皂，售价：55澳元。

Boys to men Essential items every gentleman should have in his beauty closet 绅士理肤，必备之选

Back to basics 回复本原 Any decent skincare regime should start with a deep cleansing face wash. Clinique for Men Charcoal Cleanser is a detoxifying gel wash that deeply cleans the pores while the natural coal draws out dirt and excess oil, leaving all skin types feeling fresh. $35, clinique.com.au 深层洁面是所有肌肤护理的基础。倩碧男士活炭净爽洁面乳（CLINIQUE FOR MEN CHARCOAL CLEANSER）富含天然活性炭分子，能够深层清洁毛孔，有效吸除污垢和多余油脂。该款产品还有助于舒缓镇静肌肤，减少后续剃须带给肌肤的刺激，适用于所有肌肤类型，让您时刻充满新鲜活力。售价：35澳元。 140

Eye opener 大开眼界 Fine lines around the eyes are a tell-tale sign of ageing. The daily application of a quality eye cream can take years off your appearance. Shiseido Men Total Revitalizer Eye Cream will restore firmness and combat dryness, sagging and dark circles. 15ml for $69, shiseido.com.au 眼周细纹能够暴露您的真实年龄。每日使用优质眼霜，有助于淡化眼周肌肤岁月痕迹。资生堂男士优效紧致眼霜（SHISEIDO MEN TOTAL REVITALIZER EYE CREAM）有助于重塑紧致肌肤，对抗干燥、松弛和黑眼圈。15毫升装售价：69澳元。

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Prada Fall 2016 RTW

Daily dose 每日护理 The morning multivitamin we digest, unfortunately, doesn’t target the skin, which makes Aesop’s latest release an essential addition to the beauty closet. Lucent Facial Concentrate combines Vitamin C and B3 to brighten the skin, while Sodium Carrageenan hydrates it. 60ml for $120, aesop.com 人体需要基础维生素，肌肤也不例外。然而我们在清晨摄取的多种维生素却不足以供养肌肤，AESOP全新推出的LUCENT FACIAL CONCENTRATE面部精华富含维生素C和维生素B3，能够提亮肌肤；同时富含角叉菜胶钠（SODIUM CARRAGEENAN），有助于肌肤保湿，将成为您选购化妆品时又一必备之选。60毫升装售价：120澳元。

Bare necessities 必备之选

彩妆热话

Beauty buzz

新款化妆品火热上市，即刻拥有 The latest beauty products that you’ll want to get your hands on Red hot 红色激情

There’s something about the colour red that is striking. It demands attention, as does Estée Lauder’s new fragrance Modern Muse Le Rouge Gloss. There’s an intensity of mandarin, a fruitiness of black cherry and a lightness of aromatic rose centifolia to the scent. For the modern twist, there’s a spark of carrot and pink pepper. EDP 100ml for $165, esteelauder.com.au 全新雅诗兰黛缪斯淡香氛魅意浓情（MODERN MUSE LE ROUGE GLOSS）将柑橘、黑樱桃以及千叶玫瑰完美融合，特别添加胡萝卜和红辣椒的香气，更具现代气息。100毫升装售价：165澳元。 1 42

We find the best products are weightless and go unnoticed when applied. La Prairie’s all new Skin Caviar Luxe Cream • Sheer glides onto the face to increase firmness and redefine the skin thanks to a potent concentration of caviar extract, which deeply moisturises. 60ml for $550, laprairie.com.au 大量使用化妆品会导致脸部油脂堆积。我们为您推荐打造轻盈无感妆容的最佳之选。莱珀妮（LA PRAIRIE）全新鱼子精华琼贵乳霜（SKIN CAVIAR LUXE CREAM·SHEER）柔滑轻薄，能够有效紧致脸部肌肤，重塑丰盈美肌。该款乳霜富含高度浓缩的鱼子精华，有助于深度滋养肌肤。6 0 毫升装售价：550澳元。

本土专家

Home grown hero

Endota Spa has been a local go-to for treatments for the past 16 years. With a successful organic skincare range, Endota are venturing into organic cosmetics with Endota COLOUR. Each acts as make-up, while also treating the skin. Your skin will look and feel radiant. Mineral Bronzing Powder $60, endotaspa.com.au 过去16年间，ENDOTA SPA一直是舒缓和护理领域的本土专家。全新推出色彩系列有机化妆品，每款产品在为肌肤带来亮丽妆容的同时也能够有效护理肌肤，让您由内而外焕发光彩。塑颜修容粉饼（MINERAL BRONZING POWDER）售价：60澳元。

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简约美感 Dior’s Pre-Fall 2016 collection is understated, exuding eternal style 迪奥2016早秋系列低调优雅，经典时尚。

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All looks available from Christian Dior, dior.com

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All looks available from Christian Dior, dior.com

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“船”承

Rock the boat

In the spirit of the America’s Cup 2016, Louis Vuitton have created a collection inspired by the race’s core values: freedom, courage, skill and competence

随着美洲杯帆船赛开锣，路易威登特别推出美洲杯系列，透过系列传递赛事的核心精神—— 自由、勇气、技巧与才能。

All looks available from Louis Vuitton, au.louisvuitton.com

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xxxxxxx, xxxx

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All looks available from Erdem, erdem.com

All looks available from Louis Vuitton, au.louisvuitton.com

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All looks available from Erdem, erdem.com from Louis Vuitton, au.louisvuitton.com

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All looks available from Erdem, erdem.com

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All looks available from Louis Vuitton, au.louisvuitton.com

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MY HIGHER LIFE

Michael Jiang The director of Lotus talks about his love of Sydney, modern Chinese dining and becoming the first person in the Oceania region to attain a China Eastern Platinum Membership 我们有幸采访到LOTUS莲的董事蒋轶先生。他将与我们分享他对于悉尼的热爱、对于现代中餐的看法以及他如何成为中国东方航空公司大洋洲白金会员第一人。

Why did you get started in the restaurant business in Sydney?

亚，人们却喜欢更加开放的空间来感受周边人的能量。莲则尽量迎合这两种需求。

您为什么在悉尼从事餐饮业？

In Shanghai and Beijing the cooking technique is often very traditional and suited only to Chinese food, whereas in Sydney we have a very special advantage because of the excellent produce that’s so readily available. So I saw that there was a need to combine the two for the market in Sydney. 上海和北京的烹饪技巧往往非常传统，并且只适用于中餐。而在悉尼，优质食材唾手可得，优势得天独厚，我感觉有必要在悉尼将这两者结合起来。

What makes Lotus so popular? 是什么让莲LOTUS如此大受欢迎？

Fresh, healthy and authentic ingredients. And in Australia we like drinking, so the bar component is always important. Our cooking techniques are still traditional but we work hard to innovate on the authentic side.

You are the first person in the Oceania region to become a China Eastern Platinum Member. How did this come about? 您是中国东方航空公司大洋洲白金会员第一人。您是怎样做到的？

I have some business in China and love to visit family so I travel regularly between Shanghai and Sydney with China Eastern. They have always looked after me very well, as well as every passenger. They also have so many flights so I can choose the one that is perfect for my style of travel. 我在中国有业务，也喜欢探亲，所以我经常坐中国东方航空公司的航班往返于上海和悉尼之间。他们总会为我提供最好的服务，并且对每位乘客都是如此。他们的航班数量也很多，我可以按照我的旅行方式选择最合适的航班。

新鲜、健康和真材实料。在澳大利亚，人们喜欢喝酒，因此融入酒吧元素非常重要。我们仍然秉持传统的烹饪技巧，同时也努力将正宗美食加以创新。

Where do you like to stay in Shanghai?

What are the main differences between restaurants in China and Australia?

我喜欢住在静安香格里拉大酒店。如果我和澳洲的朋友们一起去，我也会带他们住上海的一些五星级酒店。

中国与澳大利亚餐厅的主要区别是什么？

In China a lot of people prefer the private dining rooms, whereas in Australia we like a more open layout where you can feel the energy in the space. We try to cater to both at Lotus. 在中国，大部分人更喜欢包间；而在澳大利 162

在上海，您喜欢住在哪里？

I prefer the Shangri-La in Jing An, and if I travel with my Aussie friends I like to take them to some of the five-star hotels there too.

How do you explore new cities when you travel? 您在旅行中如何探索新城市？

I always travel with food as my focus. I think New Zealand is a beautiful place to travel

and I haven’t been to Europe in a long time, but I always love to go straight to the food markets and local restaurants to taste what is authentic in the city. 美食是我在旅行中关注的重点。我感觉新西兰是一个非常漂亮的旅游目的地，我已经很久没有去过欧洲了，但我还是喜欢直接去美食市场和当地餐厅品尝这个城市的正宗美味。

What do you love about Sydney? 悉尼有哪些令您喜爱之处？

I was a law student in China and I came to Sydney to continue studying. And because of the weather and culture I thought, “Wow, that’s the city.” After living here for 15 years I love Sydney more and more. I always encourage my Chinese friends to stay here. We’re so close to world-class beaches and the Australian bush as well as all the favourites like the Opera House, Darling Harbour and the fish market. 我以前在中国学习法律，后来来到悉尼继续深造。这里的气候和文化让我有一种“归属感。我在这里住了15年，对悉尼是愈发喜爱。我总是鼓励我的中国朋友们留在这里。我们可以如此近距离的接触世界级的海滩和澳大利亚的丛林，也可以参观歌剧院（OPERA HOUSE）、达令港（DARLING HARBOUR）和鱼市场等著名景点。

New VINTAGE AéRONAVALE COLLeCtION The VINTAGE AÉRONAVALE chronograph is a time measuring instrument that marries functionality and elegance. The blue and gold colours, evoking the uniform worn by naval officers, make the VINTAGE AÉRONAVALE an exceptional timepiece · www.bellross.com VIC Bell & Ross Boutique, Melbourne, 03 9650 7421 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Emporium Melbourne, 03 9639 6175 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Westfield Doncaster, 03 9840 6304 | 8th Avenue Watch Co., Chadstone Shopping Centre (Opening September) NSW Gregory Jewellers, Sydney, 02 9233 3510 | Gregory Jewellers, Bondi Junction, 02 9389 8822 | Hardy Brothers, Sydney, 02 8262 3100 | Hardy Brothers, Chatswood, 02 8423 2800 QLD 8th Avenue Watch Co., Pacific Fair Shopping Centre, 07 5575 4883 | Wallace Bishop, Brisbane, 07 3625 8100 WA Hardy Brothers, Perth, 08 6318 1000

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