tigertales
TAKE ME AWAY
Australia | August-September 2016
LOUD &
PROUD
➔ Does Melbourne have the best live music in the world?
BEYOND THE BEACH
W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S
ESCAPE CLUB
Trekking in the Whitsundays – and other adventures
Two very different travellers take on Perth
Great weekend getaways from our major cities
Need an affordable getaway? Tigerair guests can now pick up an economy manual vehicle from selected locations for just $26 per day for a minimum of 5 days*
EAU005
To book, visit a Europcar counter or call 1300 13 13 90 and quote TIGER26. Or visit europcar.com.au/tiger26 *Vehicles subject to availability. Valid at participating locations across Australia and New Zealand. Valid from1 August 2016 to 31 October 2016. Blackout dates where offer is unavailable are 17 September 2016 to 9 October 2016. Offer valid for economy manual class vehicle only (ECMR) and cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion. Minimum length of rental must be 5 days to receive this offer. Days are based on a 24 hour rental period. Visit www.europcar.com.au/tiger26 for full Terms and Conditions
Why look elsewhere?
“
$26 per day, 5+ day rental*.
Min cost $130
Julie
WELCOME ON BOARD
Welcome on board Tigerair celebrates its 20 millionth passenger and a new deal with PayPal
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elcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly Tigerair Australia today. It’s been another busy few months at Tigerair Australia as we continue to deliver on our promise of providing you with great value fares, coupled with reliable and on-time flights and great customer service. Tigerair has really focused on improving every aspect of the operation over the past few years by putting our customers first and I’m incredibly pleased to say that we are delivering. Tigerair Australia has been the most punctual low-cost carrier in Australia in the past 12 months to the end of June 2016 and also recorded the lowest cancellation rate of all the major domestic airlines during the same period of time. We have also continued to introduce innovations to make flying Tigerair more convenient and affordable than ever before. An exciting new product called Tigerair Travels was recently launched, which enables holiday makers to conveniently book a holiday package directly from the Tigerair Australia website. Tigerair Travels combines great value fares, accommodation and a range of other optional extras including car hire, tours, activities and travel insurance, and allows customers to tailor their holiday to suit their budget.
“Tigerair Australia recently launched an exciting new product called Tigerair Travels” PayPal was also recently announced as an online payment method when purchasing base fares and optional extras at tigerair.com.au. To purchase fares and extras using PayPal, simply select your flights on tigerair.com.au and log in to your PayPal account when it comes time to submit payment. We celebrated a major milestone in June when Tigerair Australia welcomed its 20 millionth passenger on board since the airline commenced operations in November 2007. This significant achievement was celebrated in a number of special ways, including surprising our lucky 20 millionth passenger with a $2,000 travel voucher and presenting the remaining 179 passengers on board her flight with a $20 voucher to mark the occasion.
There is no secret to scoring the best value fares with Tigerair. Simply plan ahead and book early as fares increase as demand grows and the travel date draws closer. To stay up-to-date with all the latest Tigerair news, special deals and competitions, keep posted to our website, sign up to our free e-newsletter and ‘like’ our Tigerair Australia Facebook page. Happy travels and we look forward to welcoming you on board again soon.
Rob Sharp, Tigerair Australia CEO
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CONTENTS
Destination directory Inside this issue‌ wherever you're going, we've got you covered
18 T H E S P LU R G E
tugu hotel Bali's cultural stay that is more like a museum
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F E AT U R E
adventure w h i t s u n d ay s
F E AT U R E
Explore beyond the beaches
weekends a w ay
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The best short breaks from our major capitals
F E AT U R E
live and gigging Why Melbourne has the best live music scene
59 Explore Perth with two different travellers
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Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Art Director Yamin Spendlove Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott Cover photo Camp Cope, by Elleni Toumpas
Advertising National Advertising Manager Jamie-Lee Golden (02) 8188 3665 jamie-lee@citrusmedia.com.au Commercial Manager Joe Bird (02) 9186 9104 jbird@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestarweb
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Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Publisher Steve Maidens (02) 8188 3670 steve@citrusmedia.com.au Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au
Take a walk on Cradle Mountain
Š 2016 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder. Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.
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THE POINTY END We have your next great travel stor y
Sydney the Cirq See
Eating out Do you travel for food? 38
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THE POINTY END
T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O O Z A S I A F E S T I VA L
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This is Australia’s premier international festival focusing on Asia. Events include the popular Moon Lantern Festival, as well as a range of music, film and visual arts. Adelaide, from September 17; ozasiafestival.com.au
CULTURE
6 THE LOST L ANDS Family-friendly three-day music festival from the founder of Falls. Acts include Architecture in Helsinki (pictured) and the Waifs, – and creator Simon Daly gives us his top tips for a Melbourne family day out (see page 13). Melbourne, October Long Weekend; thelostlands.com.au
BAROSSA GOURMET WEEKEND
B R I S B A N E F E S T I VA L The science of public participation will be the main theme at this year’s Brisbane Festival, the arts get-together that offers everything from Meow Meow’s Little Mermaid Cabaret in the Spiegeltent to the California Crooners Club. Brisbane, September 3-24; brisbanefestival.com.au
MUSIC
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3 SCIENCE
B A L IN A L E 2 0 16 The Bali International Film Festival (Balinale) enters its 10th year this year and continues to attract filmmakers from all over the world. But it's the promotion of Indonesian filmmaking that makes this festival a must-see with a range of arthouse films from all over the island nation. Bali, September 24-30; balinale.com
P E R T H S C IE N C E F E S T I VA L Learn about the human body, healthy diets and computer coding. There will be a series of workshops and talks and stands manned by a range of science experts, from chemistry to urban farming. Perth, August 13-14; facebook.com/PerthSciFest
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Shinju Matsuri is a combination of several different festivals; the Japanese Obon Matsuri, the Malaysian Hari Merdeka, and the Hang Seng festival from China. This annual community party seeks to celebrate the many different cultures that have helped form the Top End from Darwin all the way to Broome. Darwin, September; shinjumatsuri.com.au
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The science of winemaking will be on show at the Barossa Gourmet Weekend. The event has been going for 30 years with masterclasses and degustation dinners. Adelaide, September 2-4; barossagourmet.com
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S HIN J U M AT S U R I
FILM
PL ANNING ON GOING? If you're heading to one of these events, send us your pictures
#tigerairau
THE POINTY END
Have a family outing in Melbourne
WORDS PAUL CHAI
T
his Melbourne Cup weekend, Victoria gets a new type of festival from Simon Daly, founder of The Falls Festival. This three-day music and arts extravaganza in Werribee is called The Lost Lands. It will have bands like the Waifs, Missy Higgins and the Grates, but also offers bike riding, bush walks and trips to nearby Werribee Zoo. The idea? Make the festival experience inclusive for families. Simon believes that, in Australia, activities are too often segregated into either adult or child pursuits – but that needn’t be the way. “In Europe the culture is different,” he says. “Kids form part of a number of festivals – beyond entry. If you grow up going to festivals, listening to live music and enjoying the arts, you're more likely to continue this in adulthood and, of course, pass it on to your kids. It kind of works full circle.”
But why even take kids to festivals? Aren’t we just forcing them to be mini-adults? “I think a lot of the time we don't give kids enough credit,” Simon adds. “The live music and arts scene has a lot to offer – not only a good time, but also learning about music, arts, society and human behaviour. I really think the right type of festival has the opportunity to inspire new passions and skills, and that’s a driving factor for The Lost Lands.” With this is mind, we asked Simon if he could offer up some of his favourite things to do with the family – great shared experiences that both adults and kids can get into outside of a one-off arts festival. “What makes a good family outing is anything that gets us out of our everyday, that allows us to slow down and spend time with one another,” he says.
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THE POINTY END Here are Simon’s family picks in Melbourne and surrounds... Best art gallery Heide Museum of Modern Art's Sculpture Park Once the home of art patrons John and Sunday Reed – that played host to artists like Sidney Nolan and Albert Tucker – this mid-century home is now a suburban art museum set on lush grounds. "Grab a picnic from Cafe Vue [in the museum grounds] and sit in amongst the sculpture park,” Daly says. “There are plenty of things for the kids to look at and find." He also suggests the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) in Federation Square as "there's always something pretty out-there on display. The kids love it." Heide, 7 Templestowe Road, Bulleen; heide.com.au ACMI, Federation Square; acmi.net.au
“We love the energy of the playground and there are heaps of kids out and enjoying the great outdoors” 14
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Best cheap family eats Tiamo An old-school Italian classic in Carlton. “Quick, authentic Italian food,” Daly says. “And it’s next to Readings Bookshop and opposite Nova Cinema for a full afternoon of activity.” 303-307 Lygon Street, Carlton; tiamo.com.au
Best family park Royal Park Children’s Nature Play This new $5.5-million-dollar playground is designed to bring back some of the risk taking that kids’ parks generally avoid (and it’s right next to the Royal Children’s Hospital, just in case). It offers challenging rope traverses, climbing frames and natural formations for all ages to run riot on – and has barbecue facilities and plenty of room for adults. This year it was named the best kids’ park in Australia. "It’s a CBD destination for families. We love the energy of the playground and there are heaps of kids enjoying the great outdoors," Daly says. Gatehouse Street, Parkville
F A M I LY F E S T I V A L T I M E Acts like Non-Stop Tricks (above) and the Waifs (opposite page) play the Lost Lands.
GET LOST Taking place at Werribee Park from October 28-30, The Lost Lands is a threeday music and arts festival. You can buy one-, two- or three-day passes, and there are camping and glamping options for spending the night. For more information, thelostlands.com.au.
Best day trip Two hours south-west of Melbourne is the town of Lorne, which hosts the Festival of Performing Arts on September 2-4. “I can't go past a trip to my hometown,” Daly says. “It has great beaches, walks and sightseeing.” Closer to Melbourne he recommends Werribee Park (“it’s home to The Lost Lands festival, the grounds are beautiful and the kids love a tour through the mansion”) and Collingwood Children's Farm (18 St Heliers Street, Abbotsford; farm.org.au).
Best live music venue “Aireys Pub in Aireys Inlet on the surf coast has great live music and it's really family friendly,” Daly says. 45 Great Ocean Road, Aireys Inlet; aireyspub.com.au
PHOTOGRAPH ROBERT BLACKBURN
Best things to see at The Lost Lands While adults might be getting excited about Architecture in Helsinki or the Bamboos with Tim Rogers, there's plenty for kids to get geed up about too. “Our wonder program gives total creative licence with making, learning and conversation,” Daly says. “Plus there's a huge music and arts program. It's about creating new conversations in your family, opening young eyes and reigniting older ones.”
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au
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THE POINTY END
T HE P L AY L I S T Pack these on your next trip away
DRINK
A DRINK BOTTLE
AHEAD OF THE PACK Snowboard champion Alex "Chumpy" Pullin
interview paul chai albums matt shea
Ü You will find champion snowboarder Alex Pullin jetting around a lot when he's not shredding the white stuff. “With the short internal flights I love windows, it’s good to chill out and take in the views,” he says. Alex recently finished up a season of travelling for events in the Northern Hemisphere winter before returning to Australia for the winter season. Alex is an ambassador for Mount Hotham in the Victorian High Country, but also likes a bit of sun. “I'm off to Northern Sumatra to a surf resort at Simeulue, which is pretty exciting, and I'm looking forward to surfing all day and relaxing at night on the beach,” he says. “Then I’ll be spending some time at Mount Hotham – it’s a terrific mountain with some challenging and fun runs.” Alex likes going to new countries, but also appreciates coming back when he's done. “One thing about travel is that it makes you appreciate how great life is in Australia. We can take life here for granted sometimes and I always love coming home,” he says. mthotham.com.au
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“Given I am training nonstop I need to take on a lot of water; flying can dehydrate you a lot.”
KIT
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A FOAM ROLLER “I am constantly needing to stretch and keep the body loose.”
SCHOOLBOY Q
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2 BIG THIEF
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NOISE CANCELLING HEADPHONES “This is essential on planes so you can relax in peace.”
RELAX
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Processing pain without letting it consume you – that’s the education provided by Brooklyn’s Big Thief. Adrianne Lenker’s cooing, fragile vocals deliver the hurt, Big Thief’s incendiary guitars the anger on debut album Masterpiece. Ideal for… camping on Rottnest Island.
3 SNOOP DOGG COOL AID
P L AY
MY GUITAR “One way that I'm able to detach myself from my training and competition is through music, I always have my guitar with me.”
Snoop Dogg’s continuing excellence is so steadfast it’s almost boring. Coolaid doesn’t flip the script, the 44-year-old rapper illustrating that class is permanent on a record that’s just as appropriate for the dance floor as it is an easy-riding weekend. Ideal for… a cheeky Bali getaway.
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THE POINTY END THE SPLURGE
TUGU HOTEL Canggu, Bali
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hy it's worth it: If you want to get a taste of Bali’s unique culture, this is the place to stay. Located in the still-unspoiled Canggu area, the hotel acts as the showroom of antique collector Anhar Setjadibrata. “Tugu” means monument in Indonesian and the aim of this hotel is to preserve the art, history and culture of Indonesia. It’s guarded by a two-storey high “sleeping garuda” that greets you at reception (Anhar found him
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abandoned face down in the mud) and the extensive collection of treasures includes an entire Chinese wooden temple brought over from Java and turned into a dining room. Bang for your buck: The hotel is across the road from a popular surf beach and close to cafes (like Aussie export Deus Ex Machina) and places for a beachside drink. Across the road is the laid-back
L o c a l f l av o u r i n B a l i Getting away from the Kuta crowds allows you to experience a different side to the Island of the Gods.
WORDS PAUL CHAI
beach bar Old Man’s, an eclectic and colourful nautical-themed beer garden named after the surf break it looks out on. You can drop in there and return for an Indonesian dinner at the hotel that specialises in local delicacies. Dinner might be a starter of kepitang glang-glang (crab and potato cake) and nasi campur Bali. The latter is a rice platter that includes seasonal ingredients found in different regions. At the centre of the grounds is a pool with shaded sun lounges and a small waterfall, and there's a large pond full of waterlilies. The digs: The Rejang Suite sits on the top floor of a traditional wooden Javanese house and overlooks the tropical garden, and the ocean beyond. There's a hand-carved four-poster bed at its centre, an enclosed wooden balcony and a separate sunken silver spa decorated with fresh flowers and a
daybed to relax on. The room is also full of artworks from Anhar’s treasure trove including traditional Javanese paintings hanging on the walls. When you close the carved wooden doors you feel like you've escaped from modern life. Must-do experience: Learning to cook the wonderful food at Tugu. The class starts with a trip to the Perusahaan Daerah Pasar, Denpasar’s main market, where you can grab a breakfast of snakeskin fruit and sweet ricecakes, and stock up for the class. You take the market haul back to Tugu where chef Iboe Soelastri teaches you to cook fish satay and sambal prawns by the pool. There’s
a lot of elbow grease involved in the preparation of the various sambals and sauces using the mortar and pestle, but the end result is authentic and delicious. The damage: The Rejang Suite costs IDR 5,360,000 ($540) per night for two people. Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach, Bali; tuguhotels.com
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Denpasar, Bali from Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth; tigerair.com.au
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THE POINTY END
Have a morning adventure in Bali
WORDS IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER
F
or many, a Bali holiday is more about the late nights than the early mornings. But, if you limit your stay to dancing the night away in Kuta or Seminyak, you'll miss out on some of the early morning surprises on the Island of the Gods. From a sunrise cycle through the Ubud rice fields to a visit to the famous Jimbaran Bay fish markets, we have three experiences that are worth setting the alarm for.
5AM: Sunrise photo lesson Bali is at its most beautiful at dawn, when soft shards of light dance across the horizon and the
heat of the tropics sits patiently at bay. The sky is inky purple and Padang Bay is calm as a lagoon as two stout sailors cast a boat from the beach at Alila Manggis resort (alilahotels.com/manggis) on Bali's sleepy east coast. The passenger manifest comprises two or three budding photographers on a mission to shoot one of Bali's most mesmerising sunrises: Mount Agung – the tallest point on the island – bathed in morning light. Accompanying them on the boat is James Wilkins, an accomplished fine arts photographer from New York who works and teaches in Bali six months of the year. “The great thing about ê
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THE POINTY END B A L I F O R E A R LY R I S E R S Getting up early in Bali gives you a range of opportunities, from buying fresh produce to cycling the rice fields.
“The great thing about shooting at dawn is the sunlight is angular rather than overhead and the colours are paler”
for the subtle things like the last inkling of moonlight kissing the horizon or drops of water beating off the boat.”
6AM: Riding through rice fields shooting at dawn is that the sunlight is angular rather than overhead and the colours are paler,” Wilkins says. “You can see pink, purple and sometimes silver.” The boat sails out of the bay where wind and rain chase fishing boats across the Badung Strait. As the sun peeks over the horizon and the first light appears, an album of photo-worthy landmarks become visible: waves breaking over an offshore reef, rocky islets pockmarked with birds, a tiny lighthouse on the distant coast and the looming bulk of Mount Agung. “The trick to creating an original photo is not fixating on the obvious,” Wilkins says. “Look
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Interlaced with winding pathways, the UNESCOprotected rice terraces of central Bali are ideal for exploring on two wheels. You can rent a bicycle in the town of Ubud, but riding along the heavily congested road leading in and out of the Central Tourist District can be daunting. Amandari resort (aman.com/resorts/amandari) offers guests a safer alternative. They drive them to a quiet spot west of town and drop them off – along with a guide – and a couple of mountain bikes. Passing ancient Hindu temples, deep river gorges, emerald-green rice fields and villages almost frozen in time, the two-hour ride is most pleasant at dawn. The locals are most active at
this time, too, tending fields, market shopping and burning incense at shrines. The ride comes to an end at a spot overlooking a gorge where a walking trail leads to a bamboo pavilion set in the jungle. There you'll find a picnic mat, a few pillows and a gourmet breakfast hamper containing a thermos of piping hot coffee, muesli, yoghurt, tropical fruits, freshly squeezed juices, pastries and savoury croissants.
7AM: The fish markets Just south of Bali's airport, Jimbaran Bay is famous among tourists for seafood restaurants where tables are set right on the beach. But among Balinese,
Jimbaran Bay is known as the home of Kedonganan Market, the largest fish market on the island. It supplies not only the restaurants of Jimbaran Bay, but also most resorts and restaurants in southern Bali. The best time to see Kedonganan is 7am, when fishermen land their boats on the beach and carry their catch – wicker baskets full of sardines, snapper, prawns, mackerel, grouper and more – to public weigh stations. Bluefin tuna larger than 25kg are packed on ice, couriered to the airport and placed on the first flight to Japan. The rest of the catch is marked for distribution around the market. Kedonganan is not for the faint-hearted: blood and guts stain the floor, though it doesn't smell like some fish markets because the seafood is so fresh. But according to chef Kristya Yudha of the Jimbaran Cooking Academy (fourseasons.com/ jimbaranbay), who takes tourists on walking tours around the market each morning, odour isn't the right way to test the freshness of fish. “You must look at its eyes,” he says. “If they're clear, the fish is good. If they're milky, move on.”
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Denpasar, Bali from Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth; tigerair.com.au
Where to stay SOFITEL BALI NUSA DUA BEACH RESORT Close to Denpasar Airport but a million miles away from your daily grind, the Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort has 415 rooms including 17 private villas. Relax at the Nikki Beach Bali beach club or work out at the SoFIT fitness centre. Asian street food gets a five-star makeover in Kwee Zeen, the 160-seat restaurant that features Malaysian, Thai, Chinese and Indonesian staples and a fire pit for roasting meat. At CCC (Cut Catch Cucina) the vibe is European steakhouse with a seafood grill that takes fresh fish, likely from the Kedonganan Market, and grills it simply. Lot N5 Nusa Dua Tourism Complex, Nusa DUA; sofitel-bali-nusadua.com/en
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Why I live in
THE POINTY END
d a r w in Chef Chung Jae Lee was born in Seoul and has brought his hometown cuisine to Darwin in his latest venture, Little Miss Korea, in the city's CBD. What makes Darwin a great place to live? It is laid back, multicultural, there are no traffic jams and, if you like nature, there are tonnes of adventures to go on. How has the city changed in the past few years? I've only been here two years but there are a lot of high-rises and some really trendy coffee shops opening up everywhere. Where are the best places to get a good meal? Ken’s Crepes at Mindil Beach Market, BBQ pork from the Galleria (Darwin Smith Street Mall) and Thailicious (26/69 Mitchell Street, Darwin City; thailicious.com.au), as I love a bit of spice. Where do you go after work? We sometimes go The Tap on Mitchell (58 Mitchell Street, Darwin City; thetap.com.au) or I also love heading to the Darwin Ski Club (darwinskiclub.com.au) as it has a great atmosphere with good live music. Where do you go to wind down? After a really busy night I just chill out on my balcony when it isn’t too hot or head off to the beach for a walk. What is the one thing a tourist must do? Litchfield National Park (nt.gov.au) as there is a lot to see on the way there and it's so refreshing swimming in Wangi Falls. We always take a picnic of homemade sushi, which reminds me of growing up in Korea. Tell us something only a local would know. It's not easy to catch fish – we go out regularly and are yet to catch anything. Maybe just not my forte!
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MORE FOOD Beer pairs well with Korean food – find out what else does in The Feast pages.
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TRY LITTLE MISS KOREA After introducing Darwin to Korean food via Seoul Food, chef Chung recently opened Little Miss Korea as his latest venture in the Darwin CBD, combining fusion a la carte with traditional Korean BBQ. LMK is in a laneway in what was once the loading bay of an old Woolworths, so it has a very industrial interior. littlemisskorea.com
GOOD NUTRITION IS MY SECRET FOR
CLEAR SKIN Mia Fitzgerald, age 14 High School Student
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THE POINTY END
THE FEAST 1 0F 2
WINE LIST? SHOW ME THE BEER LIST! Restaurants are starting to treat hops as seriously as they do grapes
WORDS PAUL KRISTOFF ILLUSTRATION KEV GAHAN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM
A
decent wine list is a given at any self-respecting restaurant. Good food deserves good wine, and more often than not restaurants will offer an impressive and diverse range of wines to pair with your food. The beer list on the other hand generally consists of a handful of uninspired options. A few local lagers, perhaps a pale ale, and if the restaurant is trying to be a little fancy, a couple of imported lagers – which are actually just that country’s bland mainstream lager. In recent years though, this has started to change. While still lagging behind the USA and UK, where even Michelin-starred restaurants are starting to see the light, the beer lists at Australian restaurants have improved in recent years. This change has gone hand-in-hand with craft beer’s renaissance and the acceptance that beer can be just as, if not arguably more, complex and nuanced than wine. But despite recent progress, we still have a long way to go. Browse through the drinks list at many Australian restaurants and you’ll be met with several pages of excellent wines to go with the innovative, tasty food on the menu, but turn to the section titled “Beer” – usually on the last page – and you’ll find a
handful of uninspired options like Corona, Heineken and James Boag's. It’s insulting to a beer drinker to see such little thought put into the beer list – akin to a wine list consisting of nothing more than a couple of West Coast Coolers and maybe some Passion Pop for sparkles. Melbourne’s Good Beer Week and Sydney’s Craft Beer Week are good examples of positive progression, driven by those in the beer industry. Across the week it’s not just bars and pubs that get involved, but also restaurants. Many of the top restaurants in each city hold lunches and dinners where food is thoughtfully paired with beer, and diners are educated as to why each beer was chosen to match with each course and taught what they should be experiencing with each bite and sip. This is what needs to be happening every day in restaurants across Australia – and slowly it is. But it’s about more than just putting good beer on the drinks list. Wait staff should understand why a beer is on the drinks list, just as they understand why a wine is on the drinks list. Imagine dining at a restaurant and having your waiter explain that, to go with the roasted Peking duck you’ve ordered, you should drink a hoppy and bitter Pale ê
GE T TING CR A F T Y A recent renovation of the Crafty Squire in Melbourne – James Squire’s signature brewhouse – has seen a new rooftop bar installed so you can have an al fresco pint. 127 Russell Street, Melbourne; thecraftysquire.com.au
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THE POINTY END
"ANY RESTAURATEUR WHO WANTS TO BE TAKEN SERIOUSLY IN 2016 SHOULD KNOW THAT GOOD FOOD DESERVES GOOD BEER" Ale because the hops complement the roasted flavours, while the fat of the duck neutralises the bitterness of the hops. Or ordering pork chops and terrine and having your waiter suggest you order an Imperial IPA or a Belgian-Style Dubbel because the intensity of the pork fat holds up to the strong characteristics of these beers. What a delight it would be to dine on shellfish, paired with a suggested Belgianstyle Saison or German-style Hefeweizen because your waiter mentioned that these beers would bring out the salinity and natural sweetness of the shellfish while also cleansing the palate. If we want to see things progress, if we want to catch up to – and surpass – what’s happing in the USA and UK, it’s up to us as diners to drive the change. Support restaurants that take beer seriously, tell the staff how impressed you are that the restaurant has put some thought into the beers they offer, and make your disappointment with poor beer lists known. Any restaurateur who wants to be taken seriously in 2016 should know that good food deserves good beer.
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THE FEAST 2 0F 2 Here are some of the places in Australia that are getting things right. Babu Ji (St Kilda, VIC) St Kilda’s Babu Ji has a reputation as one of the best places in Melbourne to find innovative Indian food. What it’s also known for is its beer fridge, which contains an extensive range of craft beer that has been selected to complement the food on offer – think lagers, pale ales and IPAs. Diners can go to the fridge and select a beer of their choice, or ask a staff member to make a suggestion. Billy Kwong (Potts Point, NSW) One the mainstays of the Sydney dining scene, Billy Kwong offers up some of the most innovative Cantonese food in Australia with a range of unique twists and turns. Moving the restaurant to Potts Point in 2014 saw it become more ambitious, especially in regards to Kylie Kwong’s quest to forge collaborative relationships with local suppliers. This also extends to the beer list, with many NSW craft beers on offer. Try the exclusive “Billy Kwong’s Saison” brewed by Newtown brewery Young Henrys. Gerard’s Bistro (Fortitude Valley, QLD) This Brisbane favourite is always busy because of chef Ben Williamson’s excellent food, which draws upon influences from southern Europe, the Middle East and northern Africa. What diners also appreciate in the casual space is the considered drinks menu, which dedicates a full page to local and imported craft beers, split by style. It's a well-balanced selection with something to match whatever food you choose to order.
Lalla Rookh (Perth, WA) The food at Lalla Rookh is fantastic, with head chef Joel Valvasori-Pereza taking cues from his northern Italian heritage to create modern Italian dishes that respect tradition and the high-quality produce used. The restaurant is known for having one of the best wine lists in town, and there’s even a wine shop attached to the restaurant. This makes the fact that there’s an entire page dedicated to local and imported tap and bottled craft beers particularly impressive. Franklin (Hobart, TAS) Franklin opened in October 2015 and has already established itself as one of Hobart’s “must dine” restaurants. Head chef David Moyle oversees an unpretentious, seafoodfocused, seasonal and locally sourced produce-driven menu. Lovers of good beer are well taken care of at Franklin, with a notable range of local and imported tap and bottled beers on offer.
THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture for online magazine The City Lane, and one-third of craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective.
Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.
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THE POINTY END
Get back to nature in Cairns
WORDS JO STEWART
“T
he white-bellied sea eagle is the emblem of Thala Beach Nature Reserve and if we’re really lucky we might get to see one today,” explains our guide and nature ranger, Brett Kelly, as we stand looking out over the sparkling Coral Sea from the main building of Thala Beach Nature Reserve. Right on cue, a huge whitebellied sea eagle carves up the sky right in front of our dinner-plate-sized eyes. We gasp, then joke that this perfect moment must have been orchestrated by the lodge to impress guests. Brett laughs and
insists that’s just the way things tend to roll at Thala Beach Nature Reserve, an eco-resort housed on a verdant stretch of private headland between Port Douglas and Cairns. An easy drive from Cairns Airport, this familyowned property is one of those places that gets under your skin and burrows its way into your heart. Built to incorporate the natural world into the resort as much as possible, at Thala it’s only natural that wildlife sightings are a dime a dozen. Home to a series of bungalows built within ê
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THE POINTY END
A N A L L- N A T U R A L S T AY Thala Resort in Cairns feels more like a collaboration with nature than just a night away in the bush.
the forest (some overlooking the ocean) as well as a main building designed to allow a free flow of energy and light throughout, consider the Thala property a collaborative, joint venture with nature – not a hostile takeover. Unlike sterile resorts that include a few water-saving measures, Thala has achieved the highest level of advanced eco-certification, making it a genuinely green accommodation provider. From being serenaded by black butcherbirds while breakfasting within the treetop canopy restaurant, to being enveloped in a sea of orange butterflies while reading a book on the porch of your bungalow and having a sneaky afternoon beer while watching a spectacular, palm-sized golden-orb spider do some essential repair work on her silken web, nature is an intrinsic part of the Thala experience. There’s an inbuilt bird hide and free use of binoculars for keen twitchers, a free morning walk around the reserve hosted by a resident naturalist, and a library full of books to help with identifying native species of tropical birds, insects, mammals and lizards. There’s even
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“Thala has an inbuilt bird hide and free use of binoculars for keen twitchers” a resident wallaby called Apple who regularly visits the lobby at dusk. Complete with her own Instagram account, Apple is a real sweetie with whom guests can’t help falling in love, such is the strength of her charm. Apart from offering free, guided wildlife and nature walks, Thala Beach Nature Reserve also offers guests an informative program run by the ê
HOLIDAY MUST-DO Wildlife galore, shows to amaze, closer experiences, segways for safaris, high-ropes to dare, & fun to be had!
Established in 1947, Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary was one of the Gold Coast’s first wildlife tourism parks. As a not-for-profit, funds are re-invested back into the Sanctuary and one of Australia’s largest wildlife hospitals.
28 Tomewin Street, Currumbin, 4223.
More Cairns nature escapes Here are a few more all-natural getaways near Cairns Airport:
FITZROY ISL AND A 45-minute ferry ride from Cairns, Fitzroy Island is the tropical island escape of your dreams. Perfect for families, castaways on Fitzroy Island can choose from a range of outdoor pursuits including: swimming, snorkelling, sea kayaking, and even bouncing around on a huge ocean trampoline. fitzroyislandcairns.com
DAINTREE ECOLODGE & SPA
“Thala offers a chance to learn about the customs and beliefs of the Indigenous custodians” local Indigenous community, the Kuku Yalanji people. Bringing his culture to the guests at Thala for more than a decade, Harold offers visitors a chance to learn about the customs, language and spiritual beliefs of the Indigenous custodians of the land. With a genuine knack for making people smile and laugh, Harold tells us about the healing properties of plants found in the local area and the multiple uses of timbers and fibres found in the forest surrounding us. Proudly showing off his hand-carved clapping sticks and spears, laidback Harold is as comfortable holding the audience in the palm of his hand as he is handling a spear. After Harold has finished sharing stories of his precious country with us, his nephew quite literally blows us away with his supreme didgeridoo-playing skills during a mesmerising didgeridoo-playing set. Sitting on the floor of the open-plan foyer area, his seemingly effortless playing hides the many years of disciplined practice needed to master this ancient instrument. Didgeridoo-playing isn’t all serious business
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though, as there’s plenty of room for cheeky jokes in-between rounds of circular breathing made to look so easy (but which is most definitely not). We’re reminded that when played well, the didgeridoo creates a beautiful, hypnotic sound. And when a player gets it wrong? Well that’s just what we call a “didgeri-don’t”! It’s this relaxed vibe that makes Thala Beach Nature Reserve such a joy. A rare slice of luxury gloriously free of pretension, leaving Thala to return to “normal life” is the hardest part of the journey. thalabeach.com.au
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Cairns from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au
About 90 minutes’ drive north of Cairns, the Daintree EcoLodge & Spa is a deluxe escape hidden within the Daintree Rainforest. With the on-site spa offering indulgent treatments using native flora, earth and sea minerals, this is a top spot for couples to unwind in nature. daintree-ecolodge.com.au
SWEET WATER LODGE Located in the Atherton Tablelands, Sweetwater Lodge is just over an hour’s drive from Cairns Airport but feels a world away. Sitting on a hill overlooking the rainforest, Sweetwater Lodge is a lo-fi kind of place perfect for birdwatching, bushwalking and lazing in a heavenly hammock. sweetwaterlodge.com.au
SILK Y OAKS LODGE Nestled within the treetops of the Daintree, this luxe lodge situated along the tranquil Mossman Gorge River is the perfect place to bed down after spending a day exploring the Daintree National Park. silkyoakslodge.com.au
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THE POINTY END
TRAVEL & FOOD 1 0F 2
THE PASSENGER A round-table chat with three different travellers. This month’s topic: food
ILLUSTRATION GREGORY BALDWIN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM
Paul Chai, travels on his stomach Food is the main reason I get on a plane. On a trip, my meals are planned out second only to where I will be staying, and I usually make sure to stay walking distance from some great food. Food is one of the most important ways to understand a new place; what we buy, how we cook and where we eat say a lot about us, or the place we are visiting. Restaurants, markets and street food stalls are a great chance to interact
with locals by getting in amongst it and trying loads of new food. Food gives your senses a workout, it looks good, smells good, tastes good – it can even feel good, which is why we invented the term “comfort food”. To me, we truly are what we eat. When I'm on holidays I feel that a meal not had in a restaurant, cafe or bar is a meal wasted. I cannot imagine rolling up to a new place and then spending the night cooking in. Though when I'm overseas I do love to visit supermarkets because the range of different food often counts as a new food experience. There is a social side to food, particularly on holidays. Food is an
excuse to get together with fellow travellers or new-found friends and celebrate, well, food. What do you do all day on holidays if you’re not making the day one giant progressive dinner? Yes, there are things to look at, and generally climb up, but you can only stare at things so long before you start to get hungry. Ten years ago I spent two weeks in Spain and the food is pretty much all I remember now: the pintxos in San Sebastian, the paella in Barcelona, the long-pour gin and tonics (it does too count as food!) in Burgos. Gaudi’s ê
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THE POINTY END
“SOME RESTAURATEURS SAY INSTAGRAM IS TO BLAME FOR SLOWING DOWN SERVICE” Sagrada Familia stuck with me too, but you don’t see too many churches that look like they are melting. Still, it's the food that was the most memorable part – and the people I shared it with. It doesn’t have to be expensive or posh food either – on a recent trip to foodie paradise Margaret River, one of the best meals was the roadside garlic prawn pie on the drive down – but food is an integral part of why I travel.
Sarah Mitchell, travels for sights Food is just fuel to get me from one place to another. I often get anxious if I spend too long sitting down to a long meal when I'm in a new city, as I think my time would be better spent seeing the things that really matter: the art, the culture, the buildings and the places of historic importance. Sure, having a meal with friends is fun, but so is climbing a mountain, hiking a trail or going kayaking with them – not all bonds are made over a heaped bowl of pasta.
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I have friends who complain about gaining weight or feeling unhealthy on an indulgent holiday where they eat too much or drink too much. I often return needing a rest as I have walked for miles and grabbed a sandwich here or there. There are exceptions, of course. At least once a year I do like to do a beach holiday where I don’t do much and where the only thing I bother to see is the spot I've reserved on the sand. But on a recent trip to the Whitsundays I couldn’t help myself – I still up and went kayaking, and was rewarded when I saw a sea turtle bobbing alongside me. I would much rather spend a holiday seeing animals than eating them. Foodie travellers can actually be annoying. Some restaurateurs have complained that Instagram is to blame for slowing down service as patrons linger over their food snapping away and rearranging the cutlery to get the best angle. Just eat it, people! I travelled with a group of friends once who did this. Every time a meal turned up they had to discuss it, filter it and stand on their chairs to get the right photo. By the time we started to eat it was getting cold. It made me yearn for the trips where I grab a baguette and hit the museums. Food is not art, no matter how long you take to photograph it.
Connor McLeod, opportunistic foodie I don’t go looking for good food when I travel but I find it sneaks up on me – after all, we spend half our lives eating (or cleaning up!), so you're bound to have a food experience that stays with you on a long trip. On a recent trip to Adelaide, for example, I was heading out for a drive along the coast and I got lost and ended up driving through an industrial area. In the middle of it was a bright white
TRAVEL & FOOD 2 0F 2
building called Mister Sunshine’s (32 George Street, Thebarton; facebook.com/MisterSunshines). I was planning a quick handheld breakfast at the beach, but there was something about the jaunty lettering and unusual position that said I had to give it a go. The place was packed with vintage furniture and patrons who look like they love places full of vintage furniture, and the breakfast of French toast was insanely good. I got to chatting with the staff, who helped tweak my beachside itinerary and then gave me one of the best coffees of my life thus far. So, now when people are heading to Adelaide, sure they can go to the coast, to the wine regions or to see a game at Adelaide Oval, but in my humble opinion, they have to stop in at Mister Sunshine’s. This great brunch experience helped colour my whole view of the city. I can’t imagine basing a trip solely around chasing food, but I always have an eye out for a good food experience to add to my list of things to do.
AFTER 6'3 6'1 5'11
5'11
BEFORE
5 10cm TALLER
www.TALLER.com.au
TM
THE POINTY END
We sent a drone to hover above Perth's Swan River waterfront so you can scope out the hotspots to visit. 1
KINGS PARK If you continue along the point here you will reach Perth's famous Kings Park, a right royal collection of botanical gardens, lush lawns and a large central cafe with a view back along the waterfront. bgpa.wa.gov.au/kings-park
2
E L I Z A B E T H Q U AY The recently rejuvenated Elizabeth Quay has new waterside bars, open spaces and public art. It's helping the city reconnect with the Swan River area. mra.wa.gov.au
3
PEDESTRIAN BRIDGE AND PARK One of the first things to open was the new pedestrian suspension bridge and the BHP Billiton Water Park for the kids. mra.wa.gov.au
4
BELL TOWER Home of the Swan Bells, the tower includes 12 bells from London's St Martin-in-theFields dating back to before the 14th century. It also has great views of the new precinct. thebelltower.com.au
5
SIGNATURE RING Next to the Bell Tower is the Signature Ring, a public art piece that has hundreds of thousands of signatures from past high school students that were collected in 1999. mra.wa.gov.au
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1
drone's eye view
S WA N R I V ER WAT ER F R ON T PERT H
4 2
3
5 DRONES FOR HIRE We'd like you to meet dronesforhire.com.au – Australia’s largest online directory of drone operators. Their team sent us this stunning drone shot of Perth’s entertainment district. To get images of your house, construction site, or even to map a large area visit, dronesforhire.com.au.
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EVER WONDERED WHAT IT FEELS LIKE TO FLY? NOW YOU CAN! The School holidays are finally here, but you are struggling to find fun, safe and entertaining activities to keep the kids and the whole family amused. Go to the movies? Boring. Go to the zoo? Boring! Learn how to fly? Wait, what?! iFLY Indoor Skydiving is a safe, fully controlled environment with a state of the art wind tunnel in which you can experience the feeling of human flight! With no limitation on skill, iFLY Indoor Skydiving is fit for both beginners and those with experience, from as young as 3 to as old as 103 – so bring the whole family, we dare you!
iFLY Indoor Skydiving is located in the adventure capital of Sydney in Penrith NSW and also the heart of the Gold Coast in Surfers Paradise, QLD! Anticipated and adored by nephew and nana alike, this is the hottest attraction and a great action sport the whole family will keep wanting to come back to. Book a spot now and do something you haven’t experienced before! iFLY runs a Junior iFLYER club during the School Holidays as well as during the school term, suitable for kids aged 6 to 16 to join. Call 1300 366 364 or visit ifly. com.au to book now and suit up for the flight of a lifetime!
BOOK NOW! SYDNEY & GOLD COAST
or 1300 366 364
ARE YOU READY
TO FLY?
SAFE & RFAUGN ES FO 3-103!
THE POINTY END
Tour Sydney with Cirque du Soleil
C
anadian high flyers Cirque du Soleil are bringing their new show, Kooza, to Sydney in August and then touring the production around Australia. Kooza is being touted as a return to a more traditional form of circus performance, though it will be given the Cirque du Soleil twist (and turn, and twist again, and probably a backflip or two). To get the show ready, company manager Genevieve Deslandes has been living in Sydney and exploring the city. Genevieve was born in Montreal and ran away to join Cirque du Soleil in 2002. In between overseeing the 80 shipping containers that Cirque du Soleil are bringing Down Under, Genevieve has been experiencing all Sydney has to offer.
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“I think Sydney is one of the most spectacular places in the world – but keep it quiet, I don't want Melbourne to hear this!” she says. “Having the city, the beaches and the Hunter Valley so accessible is such a wonderful thing. I still get excited when I walk through the Botanical Gardens and then I turn around to see the Sydney Opera House.” When it comes to travel, this modern-day big-top boss likes to live in a place in order to experience it properly. “I like going to markets, cooking with local ingredients, making local friends and walking around until I find what I did not know I was looking for.” Opposite is Genevieve’s list of top Sydney experiences that she can’t wait to share with the whole Kooza team...
See Kooza Bringing its eighth show to Australia, Cirque du Soleil’s Kooza will kick off its shows from August 25 in the Entertainment Quarter in Moore Park, Sydney. They'll then take their blue-and-yellow big top on the road to Brisbane, Melbourne and Perth. Kooza has an international cast of 50 acrobats, musicians, singers and actors who have thrilled audiences around the world. cirquedusoleil.com/kooza
Asian street food in Manly I love going to Manly Beach; this is where I learned how to surf back in 2004. Their surf school is great and once the waves have exhausted me I sit outside and eat at Daniel San. They make a crispy sashimi salad that I'm craving right now! For anyone discovering Sydney, the ferry ride from Circular Quay is also lovely. 93-95 North Steyne Road, Manly; manlysurfschool.com, 55 North Steyne, Manly; danielsan.com.au
Eating in Surry Hills Surry Hills is my favourite neighbourhood. I like walking around the small streets and dreaming about which Victorian terrace house I will buy. I often stop at Bill’s on Crown Street for their most amazing ricotta hotcakes, but I recently have fallen in love with Yulli’s, who make great, tasty and affordable vegetarian food. 359 Crown Street, Surry Hills; bills.com.au, 417 Crown Street, Surry Hills; yullis.com.au
Shopping in the Hills In Surry Hills again, I go and treat my shoe addiction at The Cook, His Wife & Her Shoes on Crown Street. They have an impeccable welcome from the owners, who clearly love what they do. I bought some of my best shoes there in the last year. Unit 3, 538 Crown Street, Surry Hills; cook-wife-shoes.com ê
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THE POINTY END Get ting back to basics
Bar H for a tipple My home away from home is Bar H, a great restaurant-bar where you can find local, fresh produce cooked with love and a bit of a Japanese twist. I return as often as I can for the great wine and sake list and for the wonderful saltbush tempura. I love sitting at a table with friends or at the bar by myself. The team is great and the space is just big enough to feel festive without making you deaf. 80 Campbell Street, Surry Hills; barhsurryhills.com
Get a music fix at the OAF Food and drinks are great, but sometimes I just love a good concert in a packed room. For this, I keep an eye on the list of shows from the Oxford Art Factory. I like the space and crowd there. 38-46 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst; oxfordartfactory.com
Take a coastal stroll The walk from Bondi to Coogee is just spectacular at sunset. A must. bonditocoogeewalk.com.au
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Sydney from eight destinations; tigerair.com.au
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“Sometimes I just love a good concert in a packed room“
PHOTOS MATT BEARD COSTUMES MARIE-CHANTALE VAILLANCOURT
Cirque du Soleil's new show, Kooza, seeks to explore its circus roots, while the team gets to explore Sydney.
Live & gigging
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MELBOURNE MUSIC
Forget being Australia’s most liveable city, Melbourne is our most LIVE city with a worldwide reputation as the gig capital of the country. Ricky French looks at why the city rocks so hard, and how it nearly had the plug pulled on it PHOTO ELLENI TOUMPAS
I
t’s a Thursday evening at the Old Bar in Melbourne’s inner-northern suburb of Fitzroy, and Georgia Maq is ignoring doctors’ orders. The lead singer and guitarist of Camp Cope – one of the city’s most talked-about new bands – is supposed to be resting a seriously wounded throat. Talking is not recommended, and singing is most definitely out of the question. Georgia is the only member of the trio to hail from Melbourne, but in this city that’s not unusual. Bass player Kelly-Dawn Hellmrich moved down from Sydney just over a year ago; drummer Sarah (Thommo) Thompson moved from the Gold Coast in 2009. Georgia had been playing as a solo artist, with her powerful voice, her rampant, unfiltered delivery and her ear for unusual, off-kilter phrasing soon catching the attention of many in the music scene, including Thommo’s boss at the record label she works at, Poison City Records.
The two began jamming, and soon after met Kelly. The name came from a place where Kelly used to swim in Sydney, Camp Cove. “It was winter in Collingwood and I was homesick. These guys (Georgia and Thommo) were my way to cope with that, so we became Camp Cope,” Kelly says. Or as Georgia deftly summarises, “We’re a swimming hole!” Their debut self-titled album was released on Poison City Records in April. Despite the setback of Georgia’s voice, the band is relaxed and already planning their first overseas tour.
THE GOOD FIGHT The optimism that now grips bands like Camp Cope and venues like the Old Bar can’t be taken for granted though. If it wasn’t for a remarkable show of community spirit a few years back we might not be sitting here today, raising a glass to yet another vital, burgeoning local rock band.
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GEORGIA MAQ FROM CAMP COPE, PART OF THE CITY'S LIVE MUSIC SCENE
January 15, 2010 was possibly the darkest day in Melbourne’s proud live music history. The Tote Hotel, a venerable live music institution in the heart of Collingwood, announced it would be closing its doors for good. While music venues in the city widely regarded as Australia’s live music capital had regularly come and gone over the years, it was assumed The Tote would somehow always be there. Since 1980 the old building with the dark band room, the sticky carpet and the famous rock ‘n’ roll jukebox had hosted countless international touring bands, but more importantly had given a start to local bands who would contribute to the live music culture for which the city has become famous. Two days after the unthinkable was announced, police shut down the street. Two thousand people had gathered outside the front door to show support for their cherished pub. There was anger
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as well as sadness in the crowd. They knew it didn’t have to be this way. This gathering was the beginning of the biggest music community fight-back the city had ever seen, and the action in the months that followed would change the course of Melbourne live music. The Tote ran on tight margins, supported entirely by the music community. But changes to the liquor licensing regulations meant any bar that had live music would now be placed under onerous security requirements. Bars like The Tote and the Old Bar would now have to front up multiple security guards, which everyone, including the police, who had never had any trouble
“We never really like to think that the law and music should intersect, but there has to be protection so musicians can keep doing what they do”
MELBOURNE MUSIC with live music venues, agreed was unnecessary. It was a cost The Tote simply couldn’t absorb. Rebekah Duke was working at The Tote at the time. “Anyone who ever went out to see live music in Melbourne knew these places were about the safest bars you could go to. The new restrictions were just crazy. It was treating people like children,” she says. The music community had a choice: to watch their scene die, or stand up and fight. On February 23, 2010, only five weeks after The Tote announced it was closing, 20,000 marched in what became known as the SLAM Rally (Save Live Australian Music) down Bourke Street, ending on the steps of parliament. The crowd demanded the government do more to support live music, and to recognise the vital part it played in Melbourne’s
THE TOTE BECAME A LIGHTING ROD FOR THE CITY'S LIVE MUSIC FANS
culture. Speakers included Paul Kelly, Molly Meldrum and Missy Higgins. It was a resounding success. The licensing amendments that automatically classified live music as “high risk” were scrapped, and The Tote reopened, albeit with new owners. Rebekah remembers the day. “It was back, there to do what it does best, which is to have live music. It was like greeting an old friend.”
MAKING IT HAPPEN Rebekah is a testament to an oftenoverlooked element for maintaining a strong live music scene: the work that happens behind the scenes. She has recently launched her own creative consultancy company, Duchess Creative (duchesscreative.com.au). “I do everything from grant writing to booking, advice, crowd-funding and event production. I’m really interested in the mechanics of how something comes about. I’m fascinated by all the little cogs that fall into place to give the end result of a live music performance. There are a lot of people who come together to make it happen.” Rebekah says the music sector has become a lot more politicised over recent years, as shown with The Tote’s death ê
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MELBOURNE MUSIC
MARCUS HOBBS PHOTO STEWART MUNRO
MARCUS HOBBS FROM THE EAST BRUNSWICK ALL GIRLS CHOIR
and resurrection. “We never really like to think that the law and music should intersect, but there has to be protection so musicians can keep doing what they do. We’ve seen out of the SLAM rally that voices have been heard and we can actually enact some positive change.” Financial support is also vital if Melbourne musicians are to have their voices heard. Creative Victoria, a government body, has been busy awarding grants to musicians and bands that will allow them to record and tour. Marcus Hobbs plays in the band East Brunswick All Girls Choir. The name is a bit misleading: they're not all girls, nor are they a choir. They are, however, the grateful recipients of a grant that helped them record their first album, Seven Drummers, and have just been awarded a second grant for a new album, to be titled Dog FM. “The grants are important not only for us but for
“You don’t have to dress up and you don’t need a shirt; but if you want to wear a neon body suit or pyjamas that would be okay” the flow-on effect it has through the whole community,” Marcus says. “It funnels through to local studios, engineers and venues.” But it’s the opportunity to play regularly and meet like-minded people that has lured so many musicians to Melbourne. Jess Cornelius moved from New Zealand when she was 19, and fronts the band, Teeth and Tongue. “The community is a huge part of why Melbourne is so great for live music. It took me a while to really recognise and make use of that. There’s support, collaboration and of course competition.” She says the fun, low-key venues Melbourne has give a lot of colour to the scene. “You don’t have to dress up
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Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with Ă la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 35 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne, currently holding one hat from The Age Good Food Guide. Enjoy an authentic Japanese dining experience.
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MELBOURNE MUSIC
“Melbourne has one of the best music scenes in the world – probably the best. There’s a massive culture that’s wrapped up in it”
JESS CORNELIUS FROM TEETH AND TONGUE SAYS IT 'S ABOUT COMMUNITY
and you don’t need a shirt; but if you want to wear a neon body suit or pyjamas that would probably be okay, too.”
BY MUSICIANS, FOR MUSICIANS Back at the Old Bar, Kelly casts her fresh eyes on what sets the Melbourne music scene apart from the rest; what keeps it thriving. “A lot of the venues in Melbourne are owned by musicians themselves, and it just makes a world of difference. Here, the people working behind the bar and the people who run the bar are musicians. It helps build a tight community.” Joel Morrison is one of those musicians. Along with Liam Matthews and Singa Unlayati he owns and books the bands at the Old Bar. “We’re coming up to 10 years,” he says. “We were running another venue
but the licence didn’t allow for bands at night. The Old Bar came up and it was just perfect for us. It’s what we love and what we do. We can have bands until 1am every night of the week.” With no pokies and no food (although you’re welcome to order in), live music is the sole focus of the Old Bar. It survives on a loyal crowd of live music lovers and not much else. “It would be tough to run something like the Old Bar in any other city than Melbourne,” Joel says. “Melbourne has one of the best music scenes in the world – probably the best. There’s a massive culture that’s wrapped up in it.” From the 1970s and 80s down in St Kilda, to Fitzroy in the 90s, and now even further north into Thornbury and Preston, the Melbourne live music scene follows where the musicians go. Rents may rise and gentrification may put the squeeze on, but a strong community will always find a way. Musicians living together, creating a scene. Bands like Camp Cope have a lot to look forward to. Next up for them is the Sad Grrrls Festival, to be held at Footscray’s Reverence Hotel on October 1. The name is a nod to the “Riot Grrrls” feminist punk movement of the 1990s. As Georgia ê
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MELBOURNE MUSIC explains, “It’s a majority female lineup, so if you flip the genders it’s pretty much every other festival.” It’s exactly the sort of thing you’d expect to see in Melbourne, the city that nurtured Courtney Barnett, that is home to festivals like Meredith and Sugar Mountain, that in 3RRR and PBS has not one but two community radio stations of towering importance, that supports independent record shops like Thornbury Records, chocked with local vinyl, and that provides punters with quality live music. At the heart of it all is a bond over music, a common cause. “A lot of friendships are formed in the front bar of live music venues in Melbourne,” Rebekah says, “because you’re in there for the same reason. It’s like a rock ‘n’ roll church. You go there to commune with your fellow music lovers.”
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations including Bali; tigerair.com.au
Melbourne’s best live music venues THE OLD BAR A dedicated live music venue with a small but well-equipped band room, beer garden and front bar. Bands play seven nights a week, with DJs after the bands finish. Home to the greatest football team in the world: The Old Bar Unicorns. 74 Johnston Street, Fitzroy; theoldbar.com.au
THE GASOMETER HOTEL The only venue in town with a retractable roof that opens to reveal the stars, as well as a mezzanine viewing level. Front bar has nailed the warm pub vibe, with great meals and a bustling, welcoming atmosphere. 484 Smith Street, Collingwood; thegasometerhotel.com.au
THE TOTE HOTEL The home of rock itself, and a certified Melbourne institution. Large band room, with adjoining beer garden. The most famous front bar in town, where punters gather to talk, play pool and wait for the next band to come on stage. Like the words on its spray-painted front door say: “Never say die”. 67-71 Johnston Street, Collingwood; thetotehotel.com
CHERRY BAR Down AC/DC Lane is the selfproclaimed “best rock ‘n’ roll bar in the world” – and it has some chops. It’s a small (200 people), dark, dingy rock bar with bands most nights and plays host to the annual Cherry Rock street festival that has taken over the lane for a decade. AC/DC Lane, Melbourne; cherrybar.com.au
DING DONG LOUNGE Around the corner in Chinatown is Ding Dong, a live music venue with an intimate bandroom, Louisiana restaurant and a front bar made for hanging in. It was started by Cosmic Psychos drummer Billy Walsh as a bar that is all about music. Level 1, 18 Market Lane, Chinatown; dingdonglounge.com.au
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HOWLER Newish kid on the block, Howler is an industrial-chic joint in a converted Brunswick warehouse that has an open-air bar in front, some cover (and ping pong) in the centre and a bandroom out back. It has an eclectic line up of hiphop, acoustic and open mic nights. 7 Dawson Street, Brunswick; h-w-l-r.com
NORTHCOTE SOCIAL CLUB Grab a pre-gig bite of nachos or popcorn out on the back deck while you wait for the band to come on in the cosy adjoining bandroom at the Northcote Social. A Melbourne legend that has a Sydney outpost, August highlights include Cooking on 3 Burners. 301 High Street, Northcote; northcotesocialclub.com
THE CORNER HOTEL A local and international roster (from the Black Keys to the White Stripes) have been selling out the Corner bandroom for over 15 years. Crowded House chose the pub for a secret farewell Melbourne gig in ‘96 (spoiler alert: they came back). Grab a bite upstairs in the rooftop bar that is so close to the rail line it rattles. 57 Swan Street, Richmond; cornerhotel.com
OLD BAR MANAGER AND MUSICIAN SINGA UNL AYATI AT THE VENUE
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attraction in town. Within the darkened halls of the Gold Exhibition discover the fascinating story of gold. Marvel at the world’s largest coin weighing 1 tonne of pure gold, and watch as molten gold is poured to form a gleaming solid gold bar. Housed in the grand heritage building, an elegant retail shop presents an array of precious treasures from exquisite jewellery to coin collectables and giftware. You can also relax and enjoy light refreshments in the alfresco dining area of the courtyard café.
Open 7 days a week. 9am – 5pm 310 Hay Street, East Perth Western Australia 6004 Telephone 1300 366 520 perthmint.com.au/visit • Book Online
DE S T IN AT ION PERTH
ta ni a
Sun, sea and sips with a theme of: LIQUID.
weekend warriors ONE
DESTINATION,
TWO
DIFFERENT
ADVENTURES
c l a ir e
Up for a cool weekend with the theme word: HOT.
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WEEKEND WARRIORS
SLIPPER Y SL OPE The Great Escape (thegreatescape.com.au) is next to the beach at Hillarys Boat Harbour. Trampolining, rope climbing and mini-golf are also available, but it’s the SpeedTwister slides, two of the fastest waterslides in Perth, that get the adrenaline pumping.
SPOT THE S WA N The best place to encounter Perth’s iconic black swans is while taking a leisurely stroll around the 3.27km circuit of Lake Monger (cambridge.wa.gov.au). Of the 113 hectares it covers, 70 are water and urban wetlands, where I encounter an array of birdlife, plenty of shady trees and picnic spots.
LIGHT-BUL B MOMENT Away from the hub of Hillarys Boat Harbour, flanked by huge boulders that line the beach on the right and Hillarys Yacht Club on the left, a path leads to a lighthouse with a 106-year-old lantern. I climb up 24 narrow steps that take me to a viewing platform where I'm greeted with a stunning 360-degree vista of the ocean and harbour.
TA NI A
hits a waterslide, gets a harbour view and ends the day at the beach.
f r id ay
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PA MPER ME For a weekend on the town I fancy a hot new hair 'do, and Chilli Couture (3/117 Brisbane Street, Perth; chillicouture.com.au) is just the place to go.
EN JOY THE SERENI-TE A
IT ’S TH AI-RIFFIC Next I head into the CBD for lunch at Long Chim (Cnr St Georges Terrace and Barrack Street, Perth; longchimperth.com). Located in the beautifully renovated State Buildings, Long Chim is a fancy Thai restaurant famed for the properly spicy food of chef David Thompson.
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A good cup of tea can feel like a warm hug. Downstairs at the State Buildings is Teassential (teassential.com.au) selling boutique brews. I sip a chai tea while watching the bustle of St Georges Terrace and grab some loose leaf to take home.
DESTINATION PERTH
SUNSE T DRINK C A S TING OFF As the sun sets, I get set to catch dinner. The more serious, adventurous souls navigate their way across rocks along the wall leading to the bottom of the lighthouse at Hillarys. But for those wanting a more relaxed evening, the nearby sandy beach is a wise choice. Tailor, herring, bream, whiting, snook and the odd mulloway are regular catches.
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Sip a latte, slurp a slushie, chill out with a chai tea or energise with an espresso, all available from Kailis Trigg Beach restaurant (364 West Coast Drive, Trigg; kailistriggbeach.com) while watching the sun slip away from view. I choose an ice-cold milkshake.
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DINING UP HIGH Sitting on the outside balcony of the Scarborough Beach Bar (1 Manning Street, Scarborough; scarboroughbeachbar.com.au) is the perfect way to end the day. A very popular place, arriving early is the only way to ensure a table. Delicious, generous portions of pizzas and burgers are their forte and are enhanced with a glass of wine or beer.
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C L A IR E
spices it up at Long Chim, has a hot pizza and enjoys some live music.
THE NE X T BIG THING Just over the bridge, The Bird (181 William Street, Northbridge; williamstreetbird.com) hosts live music most nights of the week. This is the place to come to see the hottest new bands on their path to stardom in an intimate and grungy setting.
CHOCOL ATE FIX I can’t resist a Tikal Chilli truffle from Koko Black (140 William Street, Perth; kokoblack.com). It’s just little so it won’t ruin my appetite.
A PIZ Z A M Y HE A R T Off Barrack Street in the CBD I find Alfred’s Pizzeria (37 Barrack Street, Perth; alfredspizzeria.com.au). This bar serves the best Bloody Mary – with garlic-infused vodka and hot sauce. They offer pizza all night long; I opt for the Rocky, with Italian sausage.
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WEEKEND WARRIORS
LIV E LIK E A KING In spring the grounds of Kings Park burst into a kaleidoscope of colour with blooming wildflowers, but it’s equally enticing throughout the entire year with uninterrupted views of the Swan River, treetop walks, gardens and playgrounds.
I H AV E A SECRE T The locals are reluctant to impart the whereabouts of the entrance to the Secret Garden (2 Careniup Avenue, Gwelup; #perthsecretgarden). Should you happen to chance upon it, you'll be amazed at the myriad shades of green leaves draped around fallen logs and trees.
GO ON A CRUISE I never miss an opportunity to glide along the Swan River with Captain Cook Cruises (captaincook.com.au), as they depart daily from Elizabeth Quay. Feel any stress slip away as you take advantage of the complimentary wine tasting while admiring the sights of Perth and Fremantle in style. The friendly skipper points out the old Swan Brewery site and multimillion-dollar houses all perched on the water’s edge.
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finds a secret garden, cruises the Swan River and visits Elizabeth Quay.
S AT UR D AY
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WA L K THIS WAY I get up early and work up a sweat bushwalking. The Echidna Trail at Walyunga National Park (parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au/site/ echidna-trail) is an 11km track with views of the Avon River and Avon Valley.
SHOP TIL L YOU DROP
HOT & SPIC Y I refuel with brunch at Holly Raye’s (James Street, Bassendean; facebook.com/ hollyrayes) and opt for their chilli scrambled eggs with feta. This is a seriously good dish with quite a kick!
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William Street in Northbridge (between Roe & Brisbane Streets) is home to the cutest independent stores in Perth. I check out the hottest new fashion, homewares and books from a mix of local, national and international designers and authors.
DESTINATION PERTH
BEL L S OF THE B A L L
QUAY TO THE CIT Y Perth’s newest entertainment precinct sits nestled on the banks of the Swan River. Restaurants, cafes, bike paths and wide walkways provide a plethora of dining, drinking or exercising opportunities with superb backdrops of the river, Kings Park and the CBD. With easy access via ferry, bus or train and plenty of parking, there’s no excuse not to visit.
The Bell Tower is the only location on the planet where real people ring the bells in such a transparent environment. Chime a bell yourself, climb to Level 6 to admire the 360-degree view of Perth, or be soothed by the bubbling fountains.
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GE T SNE A K Y Tucked away in a dingy alley in Northbridge lies Sneaky Tony’s Prohibition Rum Bar. To enhance the secrecy and feeling of a speakeasy, entry is via a knock on the door and a slit slides back revealing a pair of glowering eyes. Access is only granted when you relay the password from their Facebook page (facebook.com/sneakytonys).
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C L A IR E
works up a sweat, checks out some hot fashion and rocks out.
DIV E IN
FAT TA FRESC A After a couple of hours of retail therapy, I stop into my favourite place on William Street: Chicho Gelato (180 William Street, Northbridge; chichogelato.com). They serve handcrafted, small-batch gelato in a range of flavours. I choose the Smokey Mexican Chocolate with melted couverture chocolate in a toasted brioche.
GE T L UCK Y
Late-night rock’n’roll dive bar Joe’s Juice Joint (rear 232 William Street, Northbridge; facebook.com/joesjuicejoint) is seriously fun. Find it off an alleyway and down a flight of stairs. I love the Pickleback cocktail – a shot of whiskey followed by a chaser of pickle brine. Guaranteed to warm you up!
The piping hot ramen from Lucky Chan’s Laundry & Noodle Bar (311 William Street, Northbridge; facebook.com/luckychansbar) is so good! I always ask for it super spicy and the kitchen happily delivers. Good food, good drinks, good friends and good times.
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WEEKEND WARRIORS
CRE ATURE COMFOR T S S AILING AWAY GE T SOME TUCK ER For an early morning swim, surf or stroll head to Leighton Beach. Not only is it home to the Fremantle Surf Lifesaving Club, but if you need more of a kickstart, step into Bib and Tucker (18 Leighton Beach Boulevard; bibandtucker.net.au) for coffee.
In 1606, the captain of Dutch sailing ship Duyfken, was the first European to record reaching Australia while on a voyage of discovery. A replica of this ship is docked in Fremantle and open for tours until it embarks on a 1,000km sail along the west coast, to commemorate 400 years since Dutch explorer Dirk Hartog and his crew walked on WA soil in 1616.
No visit to Fremantle is complete without stopping into Little Creatures Brewery (40 Mews Road; littlecreatures.com.au) for some lunch. Grab some pub grub and an ice-cold ale while sitting outside overlooking the river. After lunch, join a tour of the on-site brewery.
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tastes a boutique brew, trains on a tall ship and dines by the sea.
S UND AY
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ESPRESSO YOUR SEL F Next up I grab a coffee at Mary Street Bakery (507 Beaufort Street, Highgate; marystreetbakery.com.au) and I can’t resist a freshly made sweet treat.
S WE AT IT OUT A steamy yoga session is a great way to recharge after a night out. Power Living Yoga (158A Vincent Street, North Perth; powerliving. com.au) offer hot yoga classes seven days a week at their centrally located studio.
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A GR A PE PL ACE TO VISIT The Swan Valley (swanvalley.com.au) is one of the warmest wine regions in the world and, as a result, their fortified and dessert wines are second to none. I love touring the Valley and sampling the drops on offer.
DESTINATION PERTH
SE A L EGS
THIR S T Y WORK The four-sided drink fountain located in the main parkland area of Fremantle is a memorial to “Fighting Mac”, a famous British Soldier named Major General Sir Hector McDonald, who was a Boer War hero. Initially commissioned in 1907 for 80 pounds, it has since been restored and provides much-needed respite from the hot sun.
14:00
Experience being a real-life crew member aboard the STS Leeuwin 11, the largest ocean-going sail-training tall ship in Australia. (sailleeuwin.com) Climb the mast, steer the ship, raise the mainsail or sit back and enjoy watching the sun set over the coastline.
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CICEREL L O’S BY THE SE A I can’t leave Fremantle until I've eaten fish and chips from Cicerello’s (44 Mews Road, Fremantle; cicerellos.com.au). The famed seafood restaurant has tables inside with several huge aquariums filled with colourful fish, but I prefer to settle on the jetty with a view of the harbour. Crunchy chips and juicy fish are a perfect meal to end the weekend.
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C L A IR E
warms up with yoga, heads to the Swan Valley and admires some art.
OCE A N VIE W S With a beer in hand, I watch the sun set on a wonderful weekend from beachside Italian restaurant Il Lido (88 Marine Parade, Cottesloe; illido.com.au). A plate of fresh pasta follows.
WA FOCUS The Art Gallery of Western Australia’s WA Focus program is dedicated to displaying the work of WA’s hottest young artists. I'm lucky enough to be there while Rebecca Baumann’s work is on display – I love her use of colour and how she explores the concepts of light and time. (Perth Cultural Centre, James Street, Northbridge; artgallery.wa.gov.au)
LIFE ’S A BE ACH In the warmer months the feeling of the hot sun on your shoulders, and scorching sand between your toes, can only be quenched by jumping into the ocean. A stroll along Cottesloe beach followed by a dip is perfection.
FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors get in touch.
tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au
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Trail blazing The beauty of the Whitsundays is not limited to Whitehaven Beach and diving the reef. If you look inland, tracks like the Conway Circuit offer tall rainforest canopies, creek crossings and killer views from Mount Haywood. Fiona Harper looks at this Whitsunday adventure and more... PHOTO TOURISM WHITSUNDAYS
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WHITSUNDAY ADVENTURES
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WHITSUNDAY ADVENTURES
S
etting out to ride the Conway Circuit (formerly known as the Whitsunday Great Walk) on a mountain bike, I'm the first to admit I have little clue about what I'm doing. A complete newbie riding a bike that has seen better days, what I lack in skills or experience I’m hoping to make up for with enthusiasm. Lured by mountain trails that wind through rainforest-clad hills, it's hard to resist an off-road adventure so close to Airlie Beach. Had I done my research I would have known in advance that the Whitsunday
THE BEACHES ARE AMAZING, BUT DON'T FORGET TO LOOK INL AND
Mountain Bike Club rates this 27km trail as Difficult Black Grade. To quote them: “Conway Circuit trail is quickly garnering a reputation for being one of Queensland's most difficult trails to ride.” They go on to say that navigation and personal survival skills are highly desirable. Also, that riders should take a snack or two, three litres of water, insect repellent, and spare tubes and tools to do an emergency tyre change. I had none of that. But I did have a tent, 1.5 litres of water, a torch, a tin of tuna and some muesli bars – oh, and loads of that enthusiasm I mentioned. The trailhead finishes (or starts, depending on which direction you take) within a whisper of downtown Airlie Beach. Leaving my car at the Brandy Creek Road end, midway between Airlie
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Whitsunday events to wet your whistle Keen for some more Whitsunday adventures? Visit during these events that take place in some of the area’s prettiest locations.
W H I T S U N D AY R E E F F E S T I VA L Airlie Beach is a good-time town with locals and visitors making any excuse to kick up their thongs and have a good time. Festival time offers plenty for families with Family Fun Day, street parades and fireworks, while the party crowd boogie with live music, pop-up beach bars and a street party. August 5-14; whitsundayreeffestival.com.au
AIRLIE BEACH R ACE WEEK F E S T I VA L O F S A I L I N G
“Lured by mountain trails that wind through rainforest-clad hills, it's hard to resist an off-road adventure so close to Airlie Beach”
Beach and Proserpine, the first 8km of trail is all easy undulations beneath a rainforest canopy interrupted by gentle creek crossings. Bright-blue Ulysses butterflies flutter past a forest of tulip oak trees hosting woody vines that wind around their trunks. So far, so good. Making good time, I arrive at the first campsite at Repulse Creek and decide to carry on to the Bloodwood Campsite a little further along the trail. “It's only 11km, it shouldn't take long,” I tell myself optimistically. By the time I eventually arrive the sun is on its way to the western hemisphere and I'm learning a lesson in the “rain” part of rainforest. The pleasant mist reverts to precipitation long before I encounter the first serious uphill section on the way to Haywards Lookout. A couple of hours later I'm still pushing the bike uphill. I'm seriously considering dumping the bike in the forest and continuing on foot; I’m a marathon runner, so my feet work pretty well bike or not. The only reason I don’t is that
Once known as a drinking town with a sailing problem, Airlie's race week is world-class, attracting sailors and their fancy yachts from across the globe. It matters not whether you know the sharp end from the pointy end of a boat; the town is in full party mode all week. August 11-18; abrw.com.au
AIRLIE BEACH F E S T I VA L O F M U S I C Bringing some of Australia’s best-loved musicians to beachside stages throughout Airlie Beach, the 2016 line-up includes Tim Finn from Split Enz and Crowded House, Richie Ramone from the Ramones, Troy Cassar-Daly and Eighties party band GANGgajang. November 3-6; airliebeachfestivalofmusic.com.au
W H I T E H AV E N B E A C H O C E A N S W I M Founded by former Olympian and Ironman Ky Hurst, there's a 350-metre junior swim through to a gruelling 2km swim along the shore of glorious Whitehaven Beach. November 13; hamiltonisland.com.au
CL ASH OF THE PADDLES
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Considered one of the world's toughest outrigger, canoe and paddling events, competitors from novice to world-class test themselves in the challenging currents and waters around the Whitsunday Islands. It's quite the spectator sport. July 2017; hamiltonisland.com.au
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Discover the Whitsundays,
where you’ll find every kind of beauty, adventure and luxury in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef!
Book now at tourismwhitsundays.com.au
WHITSUNDAY ADVENTURES I figure I need it to ride back to my car when I finally reach the end of the trail. Thirsty, hungry and feeling defeated, I'm seriously questioning the sense of this little adventure. But things quickly improve at the summit of Mount Hayward when a view across Molle Channel appears in a window framed by trees. Catching the late afternoon sunlight, Daydream and South Molle Island look inviting. The south-east trade winds cool my sweat-soaked skin. By this time I've got streaks of mud up my legs, I'm rain-bedraggled and tired. I'm keen to find a spot to pitch my tent and rest my weary legs. Riding up and down along the ridge with more splendid views to perk me up, I soon reach Bloodwood Camp, a pleasing patch of soft, level grass surrounded by rainforest. It's almost dark by the time I pitch the tent and fall into it gratefully. Exhausted, yet oddly elated at overcoming the challenging climb, I peel back the lid from the can of
“It's almost dark by the time I pitch the tent and fall into it gratefully – exhausted, yet oddly elated” TREKKING BY THE SEA Battling uphill is part of the fun when you take a trek in the mountains around Airlie Beach in the Whitsundays.
tuna and devour its contents. Dessert is a muesli bar and a swig of precious water before I fall into fatigued slumber. Next morning I'm up early (it's still raining!), stash my soaked tent back into my pack and ride along the ridge-top trail. Tree roots and mud make it a little slippery, but it's a fine ride. On my right, early-morning sunshine pierces the forest canopy creating mystical shards of sunlight. Insects dance in the light, while raindrops glisten on the leaves. To the left, bright orange fungi cling to tree trunks wrapped with intertwining vines. The aromas of a healthy forest are rich and ê pungent. Green comes in every shade
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WHITSUNDAY ADVENTURES
DON'T FORGET TO CALL INTO AIRLIE BEACH FOR A NIGHT OUT, AND A RES T
of the colour wheel. It's like something out of a scene from Avatar, only without Sam Worthington. A short, steep ascent cannot dampen my spirits as I march determinedly, bike by my side, up the trail towards the final peak. From Honeyeater Lookout the sky has cleared above Cannonvale and the Dryander Range beyond, now a shade not unlike the Ulysses Butterfly. With Airlie Beach appearing at the bottom of the final descent I'm suddenly reluctant to return to civilisation. Emerging from the forest into a suburban street, I feel as though I've conquered Everest. In reality Mount Hayward is little more than 400 metres above sea level. It doesn't matter. I still have no clue about mountain biking, but I do have some insight into the Conway Circuit. And I like what I've seen. For more information, nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/conway-circuit
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Camping and kayaking the Whitsundays Unleash your inner Robinson Crusoe by hiring a sea-going kayak and camping out on a deserted Whitsunday Island. For about the same price as a cup of coffee you can bed down in a national park campsite on one of 16 islands. Some, like Whitsunday Island, are well-known, thanks to limelight-hogging Whitehaven Beach with all its look-at-me beauty. Pitch a tent in the campsite at the southern end and come late afternoon you'll likely have the magnificent beach all to yourself. ĂŞ
CW6317
Come on under!
There’s no better way to get up close and personal with the star attractions of the Great Barrier Reef than with Cruise Whitsundays ultimate outer reef playground - Reefworld. Spend the day in the water snorkelling and diving amongst the thousands of fish, or stay dry and see it all through our underwater viewing chamber or semi-submersible ride. Includes an all you can eat buffet lunch and endless fun!
See your travel agent or contact us info@cruisewhitsundays.com DEPARTS DAILY FROM AIRLIE BEACH, DAYDREAM ISLAND & HAMILTON ISLAND
cruisewhitsundays.com
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World’s No.1 Reef
WHITSUNDAY ADVENTURES
“Pitch a tent on the sand at Steens Beach and you'll have a private reef to snorkel on within a few metres of your sleeping bag
K AYAKING IS A GRE AT WAY TO EXPLORE THE REEF WITHOUT DIVING
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But don't limit yourself to just Whitehaven as there are seven campsites dotted around Whitsunday Island alone. Some, like Chance Bay, are elevated with views to dramatic Pentecost Island and the Lindeman Group. Others, like intimate Nari Beach with its rainforest canopy campsite, is available to just six intrepid campers. Hook Island's northern coast has some of the best snorkelling sites in the Whitsundays. Pitch a tent on the sand at Steens Beach and you'll have your own private reef to snorkel on within a few metres of your sleeping bag. Maureens Cove with its fringing reef is
another splendid campsite for snorkellers, while Crayfish Beach is sheltered by a large rocky headland to the east and mountains to the north and west. From Henning Island you're close enough to the bright lights and glamour of Hamilton Island to smell the coffee percolating. But with the entire island limited to just 18 campers at the northern point you'll feel like master and commander of your very own bargainpriced piece of paradise. Hire a kayak from Salty Dog Sea Kayaking, saltydog.com.au, and book a campsite at Dept of National Parks, Sport & Racing, nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/ whitsunday-islands
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to the Whitsunday Coast from Sydney; tigerair.com.au
goons a l d e d n e p l sus a r o c d e d u l nd ec a s h n c i a l e e B k r n o ur e o v Sn h a h n e a t i f h l W a h yle to only t s n i n f i e l e e R v r a e tr arri B t a e r G e h arrive at t
07 4946 9111 www.airwhitsunday.com.au
Breaking good Turn your back on the daily grind with these four weekend getaways. Paul Chai watches whales – but not his waistline – with short breaks ranging from Fraser Island to Margaret River
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SHORT BREAK SPECIAL
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Lady Elliot Island
Situated on the Southern
Great Barrier Reef
Lady Elliot Island
home of the Manta Ray
Turtle Nesting Season Oct - Feb Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort is situated at the Southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. The island is regarded as one of the best snorkelling and diving locations on The Great Barrier Reef and is famous for it’s unspoilt coral reef and amazing array of spectacular marine life. With exceptionally clear water year round, visitors will discover the wonders of this marine national park (Green Zone) and they might even encounter Turtles, Dolphins and our resident Manta Rays.
Turtle Hatching Season Feb - April Whale Sighting Season July - Oct Daytrips & Overnight Stays available with direct flights from Hervey Bay/ Fraser Coast, Bundaberg, Gold Coast & Brisbane (Redcliffe) to Lady Elliot Island.
www.LadyElliotIsland.com.au Phone +61 7 5536 3644
Kid’s Club • Daily Activity Schedule • Outdoor Cinema • Luxury Cabins Landscaped Sites • Over 15 Onsite Activities • Multi Award Winning
BIG4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort Reservations 1300 640 587 reservations@adventurewhitsunday.com.au www.adventurewhitsunday.com.au Shute Harbour Road - Airlie Beach
SHORT BREAK SPECIAL
FRASER ISLAND, BRISBANE How long: The drive from Brisbane to the Fraser Island ferry takes a little over three hours. The ferry to the island takes about an hour. Why: Fraser Island is the world’s largest sand island and a World Heritage List site. It's 123km long and 22km wide at its girth. Hectares of lush forest vegetation coat the island like a net, or skin, holding the sand in place and creating a sandy-soiled wonderland for 4WDrivers. Wild dingoes roam around the island and pods of dolphins surf the waves. What to do: Whale watching. You'll never see such relentless frolicking by young whales as in the waters around Hervey Bay. The breaches, fin slaps and all-round playing come as thick and fast as the “oohhs” and “aahhs” from the appreciative crowd. Whales surface just a couple of metres from the deck of your boat. They often get so close that the crew have a saying for it: “Wow, that one was so close I should have sold it a ticket.” Take a 4WD tour of the island. Stop at Eli Creek, a “lazy river” attraction where families wade up under a small bridge
S a n d y g e t a w ay clutching inflatable rings and then float slowly back to the creek entrance. Your 4WD tour will stop further north at the wreck of the Maheno, a rusted out hull that is one of the must-snap shots on this stretch of sand. Fraser Island has over 100 lakes, but a dip in Lake McKenzie is an absolute must. The pure, white silica sand filters the water to keep it crystal clear; the sand is so soft, it can polish fine jewellery and buff away rough skin. And the water is calm and blue. Also keep an eye out for dingoes – there are quite a few on the island, but they can be hard to spot.
Watch the Hervey Bay whales, the jetty sunsets, or the natural beauty of the sand island – it's up to you.
Where to stay: Kingfisher Bay Resort, Fraser Island offers one-bedroom villas from $188 a night off peak and $208 at peak times; kingfisherbay.com. Summary: A nature-packed break for adventurous types. visitfrasercoast.com
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DE ADELAoIre! See M
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Fare Report No. 115
SHORT BREAK SPECIAL
DAYLESFORD, MELBOURNE How long: Daylesford is just over an hour’s drive north-east of Melbourne. Why: Spa country offers a range of attraction from the natural spas and wellness centres to the great food that has headed up this way along with the weekending masses. Daylesford also has a lot to offer families, such as the Tangled Maze (2301 Midland Highway, Springmount; tangledmaze.com.au) with its hedge maze and rose labyrinth and natural attractions to explore. What to do: Visit Tuki Trout Farm in Smeaton (60 Stoney Rises Road, Smeaton; tuki.com.au). This is “everyone gets a trophy” fishing where you're handed a baited rod and pointed at a series of ponds. If you feel you're waiting too long, you can move up the hill, because the pools are graded by difficulty: in the larger, lower pool catching the trout can be a challenge, while in the smaller pools up the escarpment the challenge is keeping them off the hook. Once caught, the fish are handed over to owner Robert Jones
and his family at Tuki who turn it into lunch for you. You then feast on a platter of smoked lamb sausages (from the adjoining farm), smoked trout pate and pickles, followed by a main course – the trout you caught yourselves. Or head to Daylesford Lake and try the smashed avocado and feta brunch at The Boathouse, a cute wooden cafe right on the manmade lake. Afterwards, head off to visit the actual springs in neighbouring Hepburn Springs where you can drink the famous local mineral water straight from taps in the ground. Wander the five natural springs along the appropriately named Springs Crescent and make up your mind as to which one tastes best. Where to stay: Royal Standard Farm, East Street, Daylesford. Two nights from $1,120 at the weekend, a huge property that has a separate granny flat. From Daylesford Getaways, dayget.com.au
“Wander the natural springs and decide which one tastes best“
Summary: Known for its romantic spa weekends, this area of Victoria can be equally fun for a family getaway. visitdaylesford.com.au
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Country grandeur Royal Standard Farm (above) offers a rural retreat where you can head to the Farmer Arms gastropub (right), or just wander the countryside.
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SHORT BREAK SPECIAL
“Walks spread out in every direction and stretch for minutes, or days“
CRADLE MOUNTAIN, HOBART How long: An easy four-hour drive from Hobart, north along the A5. Why: A lichen-covered hiker’s paradise full of fresh streams and chilled out wildlife, Cradle Mountain is the wild heart of the Tassie wilderness. There's a remoteness to the landscape here with its rugged mountains and twisted, moss-covered trees and there are plenty of walks in and around the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. Taking a stroll through the scrubby countryside, you're likely to see wombats going about their business in numbers you won’t see elsewhere. What to do: Walk, walk, and walk some more. Just wandering up to Cradle Mountain Lodge for dinner you might see wallabies skitter away from your front door or get so close to a grazing
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wombat at night that you're in danger of tripping over it. Walks spread out in every direction from the lodge and stretch for minutes, or days. For a morning constitutional head down past the Cradle Mountain Lodge shop and take a short stroll to Pencil Pine Falls, a 10-minute round trip that's so green if often appears unreal. This area is the step-off point for the hardcore six-day Overland Track, but most visitors tend to take a shorter walk around the moonlike landscape surrounding the shard-covered Cradle Mountain itself. Staying at the lodge, the thing to do at night is simply to curl up with a good book in front of the open fires in the communal area, which is full of expansive leather lounges, bookshelves, exposed wooden beams and mountain murals on the walls. Where to stay: Cradle Mountain Lodge. Originally opened in 1972 as the Pencil Pine Lodge, it was taken over by Peppers in 2012. There is a reason that Cradle Mountain Lodge was the only Australian property featured on last year’s Lonely Planet “Extraordinary Places to Stay” list. 4038 Cradle Mountain Road, Cradle Mountain, Tasmania. Rooms start from $199 a night; peppers.com.au. Summary: The Lodge itself has ancient forests, mod cons like the Waldheim Alpine Spa and a retro hunting lodge vibe, which makes it great for nature lovers of all ages. parks.tas.gov.au
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R E S O R T
SHORT BREAK SPECIAL
MARGARET RIVER, PERTH How long: The Margaret River region is about three-and-a-half-hour’s drive south of Perth along the Bussell Highway. Why: This area is a magnet for foodies due to its fresh produce, world-class wine and chefs that are fans of foraging the shoreline for the freshest natural ingredients they can find. But there's more here than just adventure for the palate; some of Australia’s best waves are to be found on the south-west coast, there are ancient karri forests, and the famous Cape-to-Cape coastal walk can have you hiking vertiginous cliff tops for days (if you have the energy). And the wine... you cannot forget the wine. What to do: Go wine tasting. You simply cannot travel through here without visiting some cellar doors, but there are over 100, so where do you start? A good kick-off point is the original estate that realised the potential of this region of Australia for growing grapes. The sprawling, artladen grounds of Vasse Felix (Tom Cullity Drive, Cowaramup; vassefelix.com.au) first played host to vines in 1971. Another veteran is Leeuwin Estate (Stevens Road,
Walk , rest and sip In Margaret River you can wander the wild coast or just let your palate do the wandering at great restaurants and wineries.
Margaret River; leeuwinestate.com.au), a family-run affair that's one of the founding five wineries in the area. Grab a taste of these amazing wines as you sit out on the terrace looking down on the stunning surrounds that play host to outdoor concerts and the annual “village” at the Margaret River Gourmet Escape. The Gourmet Escape takes place in November each year and is a great time to visit. You can go quad biking too. Eco Adventures Margaret River (ecoadventuresmargaretriver.com) specifically designed their electric quad bikes to have minimal impact on the Boranup Forest and Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park and, while they might not be too fast, the dirt tracks they drive along make for a fun ride. These towering karri forests have trees that range in age from 150-600 years of age. You'll feel very small. Where to stay: Darby Park in Margaret River has doubles starting from $172, Bussell Highway, Margaret River;
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darbypark.com.au. Pullman Bunker Bay Resort has doubles starting at $309, 42 Bunker Bay Road, Naturaliste; pullmanhotels.com. Summary: This is foodie country, no doubt about it – a destination full of flavour but with some stunning coastline and forest adventures to boot. Ideal for couples. westernaustralia.com
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne, Hobart, Brisbane and Perth; tigerair.com.au
YOUR FITNESS ADVENTURE BEGINS NOW. Every state. Every event. Every level.
Start here. GoGoRace.com CYCLING | TRIATHLON | RUNNING | SWIMMING | ADVENTURE | WELLBEING
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Where to next? Tigerair serves 11 destinations in Australia – as well as Denpasar, Bali
denpasar
darwin
tigerair bases cairns
whitsunday coast
brisbane gold coast coffs harbour perth
sydney adelaide melbourne (tullamarine)
FOR AN UP-TO-THE-MINUTE LIST OF OUR DESTINATIONS, VISIT TIGERAIR.COM.AU
hobart
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Sail the Whitsundays in Style
catch the breeze on a classic gaff-rigged schooner
DAY SAILS
TWO DAY SAIL PACKAGE
SUNSET SAILS
DINNER PACKAGE
$155 $165
$299
$65pp
$150PP
Catch the breeze on a day sail, Hoist a sail, Swim with turtles, Snorkelling gear provided TUESDAY Blue Pearl | Langford Reef 7.30-4pm
See the best of the Whitsundays (north and south) on a classic schooner over two days. Relax on deck and see the wind fill the sails
Includes 2-hour sail Plus choice of: 4 course tapas at Barcelona Cafe 4 course dinner at Coral Sea Resort.
WED-THURS-FRI-SAT-SUN-MON Whitehaven and Dumbbell Island 7.30-5.30 pm
Family packages available and kids half price.
4.45-6.45 pm. Sunset Sail across Pioneer Bay Slip into the sunset in style with complimentary glass of bubbles and nibbles on a classic gaff-rigged schooner. Return in the moonlight.
Family packages available and kids half price. WE DEPART ABELL POINT MARINA (South Marina). Meet at the meeting place outside Barcelona cafe 15 minutes before the sail.
www.providencesailing.com.au
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Use promo code PROVTIGER for a 10% discount! 0427 882 062 | Airlie Beach
TIGERAIR NEWS
Tigerair launches “Tigerair Travels” New experience helps tailor a holiday package to suit your needs.
T
igerair Travels is the airline’s latest travel online product that allows you to combine great value fares, accommodation and a range of other travel options including car hire, tours and insurance. Tigerair Australia commercial director Adam Rowe says the addition of an official holiday package experience is another sign of Tigerair’s commitment to providing customers with more value and choice than ever.
“Tigerair Travels is another way we’re making travel easier, more affordable and more convenient for passengers," Rowe said. “With Tigerair Travels, passengers can go on an affordable holiday with Tigerair Australia to many destinations around Australia as well as to Bali, our first international destination. “Tigerair Travels not only allows customers to book all-inclusive holiday packages with us for the
first time, but it also continues to bolster our ever-expanding product portfolio that is designed to continually improve the Tigerair experience for our customers.” Although it's an online service, you'll get plenty of support with this new offering. A dedicated Customer Contact Centre has been established to handle all phone enquires so you get low fares, great travel experience and the back-up you need.
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TIGERAIR NEWS
Tigerair welcomes 20 millionth passenger To celebrate, the airline offered 20,000 one-way fares for $20 Lucky Tigerair Australia passenger Sarah Del Medicio from Adelaide was the 20 millionth passenger to book a seat on Tigerair. Sarah received a $2,000 voucher for future travel on the airline, while all passengers on the Melbourne to Adelaide service that Sarah was on received a $20 voucher as well. Tigerair Australia CEO Rob Sharp was onboard to congratulate the lucky 20 millionth passenger and give Sarah her travel voucher. “The 20 millionth passenger milestone is a significant achievement for Tigerair Australia, which commenced operations in Australia in November 2007,” Sharp said. “Tigerair Australia is proud
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of the contribution we make by providing healthy competition to the market, which is a win-win for consumers, tourism and the economy. Our brand is all about providing great value fares with reliable and on-time services and great service and I’m proud to say we are delivering on all fronts. “Tigerair Australia continues to go from strength to strength with significantly enhanced punctuality performance, the lowest cancellation rate of all the major domestic airlines for 2015, and the introduction of a number of customer-facing initiatives announced over the past 18 months to make booking and flying Tigerair better than ever before.”
T I G E R A I R O F F E R S P AY M E N T W I T H P AY P A L Save money booking your low-cost airfare with online payment method... Tigerair Australia is offering customers the option to pay with online payment system PayPal and it will offer more value and choice. Domestic fare payments made using PayPal will attract a booking and service fee of $4 per flight, per person. A booking and service fee of $6 per flight, per person will be charged for international fare payments made with PayPal. To purchase fares and extras using PayPal, customers simply select their flights on tigerair.com.au and log in to their PayPal account on the payment page. Tigerair Australia commercial director Adam Rowe said: “The introduction of PayPal as a form of payment with Tigerair is another example of how we are looking to continually improve our overall experience and ensure travel is more affordable and convenient for our passengers. “Tigerair Australia has a clear focus on delivering more value and choice and today’s announcement provides customers choosing to fly Tigerair with another affordable payment option.” The option to make payments using PayPal will become available through the Tigerair mobile app and via the ‘Manage My Booking’ function at tigerair.com.au later in the year.
want to be tigertained? download the TigerairAU app before you fly
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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
Parks
City Life
Our urban sprawl is full of fun things to explore and do BY CONNOR MCLEOD
Royal Botanic Garden
Fitzroy Gardens
It's not all concrete and steel in our cities. The green sloping lawn around Mrs Macquarie's Chair is prime harbourside real estate, best enjoyed with a blanket and a picnic. And sunset sees the bat colony take flight over the city and nearby Domain. Sydney rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au
Right next to the Melbourne CBD is this verdant oasis of hidden paths, model villages and fairy trees. At its heart is Captain Cook's cottage, the explorer’s parents’ home that was built in 1755 and brought to Australia from the UK. Melbourne fitzroygardens.com
Kings Park
A destination in its own right, this park gets a mention as it is barely an hour from Darwin. Be in the city one minute and the Lost City the next, a collection of startling rock formations aligned like a craggy metropolis. Darwin nt.gov.au
The best of the western capital's greenery is found on the banks of the Swan River. Head to the lookout for a great view back to the fastdeveloping Elizabeth Quay (see Drone's-eye View p. 40). Perth bgpa.wa.gov.au/kings-park
Litchfield National Park
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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
Walks The Spit Bridge to Manly
Coffs Harbour Marina
Starting in the Sydney suburbs near the Spit Bridge, this Harbourside hike takes in Aboriginal rock carvings, plunging cliffs and an artists' colony. Do it all or just dip in for some coastal scenery. Sydney
Follow the coast along from Coffs to the Marina and beyond to the Coffs Coast Regional Park, which has as its centre Woolgoolga Headland, one of the area’s prime whale watching spots. The season for whales can run up until the end of September. Coffs Harbour
Bayside Coastal Trail For 17km along Melbourne’s southern bayside suburbs you can stroll along the various beaches. Start with a visit to Gasworks Arts Park, an arts precinct in Albert Park full of studios (Garden Studio, Visual Arts Studio and Ceramics Studio) and a theatre all ringing a lush green space that used to be the South Melbourne Gas Plant. Melbourne gasworks.org.au
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Kangaroo Point city walk This 5km Brisbane ramble takes in old quarries, mangroves and riverside bars and eateries. The highlight here is a wander of the famous Story Bridge surrounded by pocket parks and places for a rest and a picnic. Brisbane
THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
Drinks Bar Americano A quintessentially Melbourne tipple, this laneway cocktail joint only holds 10 people. Go early or wait in a queue to get access to great mid-centuryinspired drinks in a cramped yet exclusive feeling corridor. Melbourne baramericano.com
Cafe Sydney This rooftop bar on Circular Quay has one of the best and most recognisable views in the city. Ideal for a date or visitor from out of town, there is nothing more Sydney than a Bellini looking out onto the bridge. Except perhaps a beer at the Opera Bar attached to the Sydney Opera House. You choose. Sydney cafesydney.com
The Shorehouse If Perth was a bar it would be The Shorehouse. Right across from Swanbourne Beach, this upmarket beach shack specialises in Spanish-style gin and tonics. Big, frosty bowls of premium homemade spirits with fresh fruit and plenty of WA sunshine. Perth shorehouse.com.au
Art White Rabbit Gallery
Gallery of Modern Art
In the inner-city suburb of Chippendale this modern Asian art gallery, opened in 2009, offers thought-provoking works with a side order of killer dumplings and traditional Chinese tea. The building itself is an old Rolls Royce service depot from the 1940s. Sydney whiterabbitcollection.org
Brisbane's GoMA is an imposing building on Southbank with a cutting-edge permanent exhibition and changing temporary works that celebrate our connection with South East Asia. Next door is the more conservative Queensland Art Gallery for double the art hit. Brisbane qagoma.qld.gov.au
Outre Gallery Just a paintbrush's throw from Bourke Street Mall, this gallery celebrates pop, modern, surrealism and low-brow art from racy prints to tiki mugs. Keep an eye on the website for artist presentations. Melbourne outregallery.com
Hope and Anchor Tavern For a dockside Hobart drink hit the Hope and Anchor pub, which has been slaking the thirst of the nautical and not-sonautical since 1807. Check out one of the many historic walking tours of the Hobart harbour, most of which will take in a pub or two. Hobart
Outstation Gallery This Aboriginal art gallery works directly with local Indigenous artists from the Tiwi Islands, Arnhem Land, the Western Desert and the Kimberley. Established in 2009, the gallery is founded on fair work practices for the artists involved and has a regular roster of shows. Darwin outstation.com.au
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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
Streets
96
Sydney Road, Brunswick
King Street, Newtown
Peel Street, Adelaide
Along the Brunswick stretch of this chaotic stretch of road you will find rock pubs, great new Vietnamese-themed diners, burger joints and amazing late-night kebabs. This is one of the most underrated strips in Melbourne with a buzzing nightlife most nights of the week. Start your exploration at the landmark Retreat Hotel. Melbourne
This inner city strip has long been Sydney’s boho centre chock full of bookshops, arthouse cinemas, African eats and small bars. When the road forks, if you follow Enmore Road you will also discover Sydney’s Enmore Theatre, long-time home to international live acts and comedy. Sydney
This is the street that marked the City of Churches’ small bar revival with hotspots like Clever Little Tailor, Maybe Mae and La Moka. There are also a range of great restaurants, and the bars have spilled over into neighbouring streets like Leigh Street to make this a great place to explore. Great street art here too. Adelaide
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the tale end
Travel is all about stories This issue we take a look at the city of Melbourne
My Saturday morning routine is to go down to Queen Victoria Market and buy some pizza toppings from one of the great delicatessens and then treat myself to a hot jam doughnut from this old bus that has been dishing out doughnuts for nearly 50 years. There is always a line, but it moves pretty fast.
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GED FELTHAM
2 Playing pool up the local pub with my son, he is a bit too small to use a cue so he is allowed to use his hands. We tend to go up late on a Sunday afternoon for a quick game after we have had a play in the park and it is a good way to have a chat about the week ahead. ADRIENNE LOUISE
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Melbourne is all about the graffiti these days. I love just strolling around looking at the great works that run along my train line and taking photos of some of the more interesting pieces, or just the vibrant colours. It is funny how something that used to be seen as illegal is now such a part of the city.
SANDY GRAHAM
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