tigertales
TAKE ME AWAY
Australia | October-November 2016
SPRAWL YOU CAN EAT ➔ Chef Ben O’Donoghue is leading a culinary charge in Brisbane’s suburbs
THE FRIGHT STUFF
W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S
VINE AND DANDY
Where are Australia’s scariest places?
Two very different travellers take on Bali
Exploring the Yarra Valley wine region
Rent a Thrifty CWAR, SWAR, IWAR or UWAR vehicle to receive a complimentary upgrade. Valid booking period between 1 October 2016 to 21 December 2016. Valid for Travel period between 9 October 2016 and 21 December 2016. Vehicle must be returned by 21 December 2016. BLACKOUT DATES APPLY 1 OCTOBER 2016 to 8 OCTOBER 2016. Minimum 3 day rental. Must quote TIGER at time of booking. Available at selected locations in Australia only. Offer is subject to availability and cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion, special offer, coupon, corporate discounted rate or for existing bookings. Drivers must meet the standard age, driver’s licence and credit requirements of Thrifty. Excess charges will apply for items such as Credit Card Surcharges (1.0%) and optional extras. All rentals are subject to the terms and conditions of the rental agreement.
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Get 20% off in the At Terminal T4 Car Park. Next time you fly Tigerair, you can get 20% off parking in the At Terminal T4 Car Park when you book online, subject to availability. Simply enter the promo code Tiger20 at the time of booking and park before February 28, 2017. Book online at melbourneairport.com.au and park the closest to check-in!
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WELCOME ON BOARD
New routes and innovations Tigerair extends its network to Canberra and flies its 21 millionth passenger
W
elcome on board and thank you for flying Tigerair Australia today. Over the past couple of months, Tigerair has experienced a number of major developments, including further growth of our network with the addition of a new route between Melbourne and Canberra. Daily return Tigerair services between Melbourne and the nation’s capital will begin from Thursday, December 8, providing an additional 2,500 visitor seats per week while injecting an estimated $17 million into the Canberra economy. We have witnessed overwhelming demand, particularly from the Canberra market, for a low-cost airline on this route and we are confident the new route will prove popular for our core market of budget and leisure travellers. While our route map expanded, so too did our customer numbers, with Tigerair celebrating our 21 millionth passenger in early September. In nine short years, we are pleased to have flown so many people and we look forward to welcoming many more. We have also continued to introduce innovations to make flying Tigerair more convenient and affordable than ever before, including a number of new payment options in recent times.
“While our route map expanded, so did our customers, with Tigerair celebrating our 21 millionth passenger� When booking with Tigerair, you now have the option of paying for travel Interest Free over a six- or 12-month period. This option will prove particularly cost effective when booking more expensive forms of travel and is a first for Australian airlines. In addition to our Interest-Free payment option, you can also cover the cost of travel using the fee-free form of payment POLi. Other payment forms accepted by Tigerair include Visa and MasterCard credit and debit cards, PayPal, and Velocity Frequent Flyer points, ensuring you have more value and choice than ever before. While Tigerair has continued to announce developments and innovations to make flying Tigerair
better than ever, our focus has remained on providing you with great value fares, coupled with reliable flights and great customer service. Tigerair Australia remains the most on-time, low-cost carrier in Australia over the past 18 months to the end of July 2016 and has recorded the lowest cancellation rate of all the major domestic airlines during that period. There is no secret to securing the best value fares with Tigerair. Simply plan ahead and book early. Thank you once again for choosing to fly with us.
Rob Sharp, Tigerair Australia CEO
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CONTENTS
Destination directory Inside this issue‌ wherever you're going, we've got you covered
61 13 Our Weekend Warriors take on Bali
Take a floatplane tour of the NT
F E AT U R E
brisbane food The best eats outside of the city centre
ENCOUNTER
gourmet escape
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Eat your way around Margaret River
F E AT U R E
31
yarr a valley
F E AT U R E
scream australia Try our scary movie tour
Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Art Director Yamin Spendlove Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott Cover photo Ben O'Donoghue, by Morgan Roberts
Advertising National Advertising Manager Jamie-Lee Golden (02) 8188 3665 jamie-lee@citrusmedia.com.au Commercial Manager Joe Bird (02) 9186 9104 jbird@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestarweb
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Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Publisher Steve Maidens (02) 8188 3670 steve@citrusmedia.com.au Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au
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There is more to this region than just great wine
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Š 2016 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder. Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.
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TREASURES FROM THE PALACE Exclusive to the National Gallery of Australia Tickets on sale 9 December – 17 April
The Hall of Mirrors, Palace of Versailles © Jose Ignacio Soto / Shutterstock.com
THE POINTY END foatplane t our ake a T ê of r e th v i et R t er e ar
Do you travel for animals? 35
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Getting wild
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We have your next great travel stor y
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THE POINTY END
T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O
F OOD
TECH
GOOD FOOD MONTH The Sydney Morning Herald month-long festival of food takes places throughout October. Visit the popular night noodle markets, head to one-off dinners and see special chef team-ups like May Chow and Neil Perry at the latter's Spice Temple restaurant. Sydney, all October; goodfoodmonth.com
S E N N H E I S E R P XC 55 0 This is the latest-release headphone upgrade for travellers. Wireless, great sound and 30 hours of battery performance, not to mention the latest in noise-cancelling technology, four pick-up mics – and they are light as anything at just 227g, so won't put your cabin baggage overweight. sennheiser.com
M AR G AR E T R I V E R G O U R M E T E S C AP E Dine at pop-up restaurants in iconic locations like Busselton Jetty, hear international chefs talk, and visit the Gourmet Village with all the local providers in one spot, located at scenic Leeuwin Estate. (For more on Margaret River, see page 31.) Perth, November 18-20; gourmetescape.com.au
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apple.com/au/iphone-7
MU S IC M O NA F O M A Tickets go on sale in October for the Museum of Old and New Art's alternative music festival, on in Tasmania in January with bands like Tool and Faith No More. Get in early and team it with a Tigerair flight to catch one of the most original festivals on the busy summer circuit. mofo.net.au
MARKETS QUEEN VICTORIA N I G H T M AR K E T Relaunching in November, the Queen Vic market comes alive at night with street food and some of the city's best entertainers. Every Wednesday night throughout the summer months. Melbourne, starting November 16; qvm.com.au/night-market
AP P LE i P H O N E 7 Time for the Apple faithful to get excited with a new iPhone announced last month. The big news centred on the AirPod earphones, wireless Apple ear pods with their own charging case. Otherwise travellers will be interested in the improvements to the in-built camera for better travel snaps.
M E LB O U R N E D E S I G N M AR K E T Fifty of Melbourne’s brightest design stars will fill up the underground carpark at Federation Square with funky furniture, louche lighting and design-savvy homewares. Sustainability is a key tenet of the market. November 6; melbourne designmarket.com.au
QUEENSCLIFF M U S I C F E S T I VAL Just out of Geelong, the Queenscliff fest will be humming with “queen of the minor key” Eilen Jewell from the US and Canada's Matt Andersen. This should make sure it's a memorable edition of the festival, now in its 20th year. Melbourne, November 25-27; qmf.net.au
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THE POINTY END
Have an adventure through the outback
WORDS CATHERINE BEST
I
’m wondering if the heels are a good idea. Leigh, our vivacious host, is striding across the pontoon in three-inch boots, ushering guests in and out of all manner of flying and floating apparatus with the grace of a Ritz-Carlton valet. Only we’re in the middle of a crocodile-infested billabong and one tumble away from the embrace of a toothy reptile. “There are a few monsters here and there, so don’t go dangling any limbs over,” Leigh warns with an authority that belies her broad English accent.
“Keep inside the railings and you’ll be bobby dazzler, alright.” I’m at Sweets Lagoon, a soupy slip of water about 150km south-west of Darwin on Outback Floatplane Adventures’ Ultimate Tour. Two things are apparent: this high-end, high-octane adventure must surely be the ultimate Northern Territory tour; and Leigh fits the narrative for a James-Bondmeets-MacGyver jaunt that will see us hurtling across mudflats in an airboat and swooping over flood plains in a helicopter without doors. ê
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THE POINTY END
S E E T H E T E R R I T O R Y A B I T D I F F E R E N T LY It's back-to-back adventure in the outback with a floatplane and airboat tour in Darwin.
And let’s not forget the grand entrance; we arrive on a floatplane that couldn’t get more secret-agent suave if Sean Connery were handing out cigars in the cockpit. From the air, Sweets Lagoon looks like it’s on fire, a trail of early-morning mist billowing from a fissure in the forest. The plane dives into the plume, skimming across a mirror of water sliced into ragged shards in our wake. Soon the smell of eggs and bacon permeates the air as we cruise through the lagoon, a capillary of the Finniss River system enclosed by paperbark, pandanus, water lilies and towering livistona palms. Egrets and black cormorants perch on branches, eagles soar overhead, and the mist gradually lifts, providing a surreal curtain-raiser to a jam-packed half-day adventure. And that’s about as tranquil as it gets. From here on it’s all horsepower and high thrills. We take to the water in a small airboat – propelled by what looks like an industrial-size fan – and roar through a narrow tributary, hurtling between trees and over logs, until we’re funnelled into a larger wetland. The boat doughnuts in the muddy shallows and I’m hoping we won’t be catapulted into the mud.
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“It couldn't get more secretagent suave if Sean Connery were handing out cigars” Thankfully, Matt, who’s captaining this exhilarating ride, has the vessel mastered (although he does like teasing us with jokes about muddy passengers). Later Matt takes us on a gentler journey to meet the local wildlife. Otis, a 4.5-metre saltwater crocodile, spies lunch and slips into the water, reappearing a few metres away from the boat – all nostrils and menacing eyes. We also meet his bigger pal, Chugs, and Bone Cruncher, a disconcertingly named beast missing half its jaw.
“Would I like to take a dip in the lagoon inside a croc-proof enclosure? It has to be done” The king of the lagoon, though, has long since departed. Sweetheart, the NT’s infamous 5.1-metre monster croc, was captured in this lagoon in the late ’70s after his penchant for chomping on outboard motors and flipping dinghies riled one too many boaters. When we take to the air in a helicopter, Munro, the pilot, points out a bend in the billabong where the trap was set, his voice scratchy in the headphones against the thwump-thwump of the propellers. He circles, and the seatbelt strains against my body. MacGyver would rappel from the chopper at this point, for sure. Soon it’s time to switch aircraft for the return journey. But first, would I like to take a dip in the lagoon inside a croc-proof enclosure? The water is murky and uninviting,
but it has to be done. Not everyone gets to swim in a crocodile-infested billabong in the Top End. And live to tell the story.
Three more Darwin adventures
Outback Floatplane Adventures’ Ultimate Tour costs $795 per person, including hotel transfers and a gourmet breakfast or lunch. outbackfloatplanes.com.au
Three more adrenaline-filled adventures you can have in, and around, Darwin:
The Ramada Suites Zen Quarter has modern one- and two-bedroom apartments with harbour views close to the city centre starting at $210 a night in the dry season. zenquarter.com
CROCOSAURUS COVE
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Darwin from Brisbane; tigerair.com.au
For an urban croc-spotting experience head to Crocosaurus Cove where you can view crocs up close, or swim with them in the alarmingly named (but safe) Cage of Death. crocosauruscove.com
WALL AROO TOURS Take a day trip to the stunning Litchfield National Park and embark on an afternoon watching crocodiles and the NT raptor – a huge bird of prey that confirms the link between birds and dinosaurs. wallarootours.com
CORROBOREE BILL ABONG Take a sunset cruise of the Mary River wetlands, home to the largest concentration of “salties” in the world. A great way for nature lovers to get close to these amazing, and scary, animals. wetlandcruises.com.au
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coffscoast.com Bellingen
Coffs Harbour
THE POINTY END
T HE P L AY L I S T Pack these on your next trip away
TECH
IPHONE “I know a lot of people hold on to their phones so for social media purposes but I like to hold onto my phone because it's connected to all of my mail inboxes."
AHEAD OF THE PACK Singer-songwriter Sahara Beck
1 REMI
DIVAS AND DEMONS
interview paul chai albums matt shea
Ü Hitting the road with Ball Park Music throughout October, Sahara Beck sees her fair share of travel. “I'm looking forward to going to Darwin with the Ball Park Music tour as it's my birthplace and I haven't returned since I was one,” Beck says. Some of Beck's fondest places to play include the Tanks in Cairns, the Thebarton Theatre in Adelaide – where she supported the Cat Empire – and Triffid in her adopted home town of Brisbane (“They are so amazing to the bands and the sound is always 100 per cent"). Beck is more of a window-seat girl after an incident involving an aisle seat (too much champagne and a fall) and her last break was in Cairns, but what she likes about travel is the unfamiliar. “What I value the most about travel is that it forces you to be in a situation you aren't familiar with. You have to speak with people you would have never even known existed if you didn't make the effort to get out of your own comfort zone in order to enter their world. It helps you grow and teaches you how to observe.” Sahara Beck’s album Panacea is out now and she is touring in October; saharabeck.com.au
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Proof that REMI's Australian Music Prize for debut Raw X Infinity may have come an album too early. Divas and Demons shares that release’s off-kilter wallop, Remi Kolawole's raps still coming in unfettered streams of consciousness. Ideal for… exploring Melbourne’s eclectic inner suburbs.
C ARE
SIMPLICITE' SKINCARE “I use their face cream and it makes my skin feel really hydrated and smooth – which my dry skin needs, especially while getting on a plane and travelling."
G E A R
UGG BOOTS “I get cold and then sick really easily, I always have. So even if the weather is warm, if I'm traveling somewhere I always make sure I have my Uggs with me, just in case!”
KIT
RED LIPSTICK
2 T WO DOOR CINEMA CLUB GAMESHOW
Two Door Cinema Club have traded in the jangling accoutrements of indie rock for rollerskating around the disco floor. But then it makes sense: the Northern Irishmen were always ones to get the hips moving, so formalising the arrangement makes sense. Ideal for… hitting the Sydney nightclubs.
“My Maybelline Super Stay blood red lipstick. I use it on stage because it doesn't smear off when I sing.”
KIT
GUITAR “My little Martin guitar. It's so beautiful, I've had it since I was 13 and it's starting to look like a hole is forming.”
3 YOUNG THUG JEFFERY
Young Thug made a scene at South by Southwest this year when he ceremonially ‘buried’ his iconic Slime Season mixtapes. It was a ballsy promise that Jeffery would be a step up. And it turns out Thug has the chops to go with the chutzpah. Ideal for… when you're missing loved ones back home.
THE POINTY END
Why I live in
g ol d c o a s t Tiger trainer and Tiger Island supervisor Simon Murray started working with big cats over 20 years ago. He now heads up the attraction, which has recently been reopened after extensive renovations. What makes the Gold Coast a great place to live? Great weather. Incredible beaches. Terrific lifestyle. Family-friendly suburbs. How has the city changed in the past few years? One of the biggest recent changes has probably been the light-rail system that connects Southport to Broadbeach. It’s very handy for visitors to get around and for avoiding traffic congestion. Where are the best places to go out? There are always new places popping up, especially around Nobbys. The Garden Kitchen and Bar at Jupiters (Jupiters Casino, Gold Coast, Broadbeach; jupitersgoldcoast.com.au) is a good place to meet friends and has a great atmosphere. Montezuma’s in Surfers (Aloha Apartments, 8-12 Trickett Street, Surfers Paradise; theaztec.com.au) is an old favourite, then up to Seventy7 Cafe + Bar at SkyPoint (Level 77 of Q1 Resort,, 9 Hamilton Avenue, Surfers Paradise; skypoint.com.au) for the best views of the Gold Coast. Where do you go to wind down? Home with the family, or fishing with family and friends on the Broadwater. There are also great bushwalks in the hinterland around Nerang, Springbrook and Numinbah Valley. What's the one thing a tourist must do? Help save tigers in the wild by booking a Tiger
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Experience at Dreamworld! And do the SkyPoint Climb (Australia’s tallest external building climb) – the views are spectacular. Tell us something only a local would know. Mid-week, a visit to the South Burleigh Headlands (Tallebudgera Creek) is a must. It's a great little swimming area with shallow water for the younger kids, and some fun deeper spots for snorkelling. You'll find plenty of beach to explore and it's only a short walk around the headland into Burleigh.
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MORE ANIMALS Do you make animal encounters part of a holiday? Find out what the travellers in The Passenger think.
VISIT TIGER ISL AND The Tiger Island attraction at Dreamworld opened in 1995, and recently got a $7 million makeover to allow guests closer access to the animals and tiger cubs. “Overall, it’s a more immersive experience, allowing us to highlight the plight of tigers in the wild whilst showcasing the incredible beauty of the tigers in our care,” says tiger trainer Simon. dreamworld.com.au
IT’S MY
LIFE BLOOD Lucinda Dennis, age 28 Fashion and lifestyle blogger, spicedfox.com
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THE POINTY END
Take a food tour of South Melbourne
WORDS CONNOR MCLEOD PHOTOS JOSIE WITHERS, MARK CHEW
T
he industrial-chic Meatworksco is a smokehouse, bar and grill that was opened in South Melbourne last year by former Sydney resident Lindsay Jones-Evans. Lindsay is known in the Harbour City for creating eateries like Jones the Grocer and louche cocktail dens like the Victoria Room, but was recently lured south for his latest venture. Lindsay set up Meatworksco in South Melbourne, which is fast becoming a foodie destination, centred as it is around South Melbourne market, one of the best markets outside of the iconic Queen Victoria. But there's more going on here than just fresh food. South Melbourne is home to the famous South Melbourne Market dim sims that have been cranking out these parcels of pork since 1949. Wander the cobbled streets near the market and you will come across Chez Dre (rear of 285-287 Coventry Street; chezdre.com.au) where pastry
chef Andrea (“Dre”) Reiss and business partner Stephen Sam have created a modern take on a traditional Parisian boulangerie. Set in a converted warehouse, Chez Dre offers red velvet cakes, pecan caramel tarts and classic like pain au chocolat – or see Dre’s baking skill in the breakfast menu item of housemade brioche French toast. In another small lane, in another converted warehouse, Jess Ho is filling all 24 of her seats on a regular basis at Smalls Bar (20 Yarra Place; smallsbar.com.au). This is a bar that's small in name, size and also the producers it supports, with an emphasis on boutique, locally sourced ingredients for dishes like whole roasted cinnamon quail or a cured salmon with molasses and whiskey. Lindsay Jones-Evans says this cuisine diversity makes the ideal setting for his smokehouse. “I love the old buildings and warehouses. I love that it abuts the city with high-density Southbank jammed between,” he says. “I also love that there are ê
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THE POINTY END
good food in the south Cafes like St Ali (left) and The Kettle Black (below) are helping to boost South Melbourne's reputation as a place for foodies.
South Melbourne dining “For now, the area can feel a bit like a little Melbourne secret – quiet dining spots that need an insider to help you find them” major apartments now being built in South Melbourne. It’s predominantly a business area and the introduction of high-density residential apartments will give it a great boost. It's a big, open neighbourhood and I'd like to see it bustling with people.” For now, the area can feel a bit like a little Melbourne secret – quiet dining spots that need an insider to help you find them. So, here goes... Lindsay’s favourite small bar is Bellota (181 Bank Street, South Melbourne, bellota.com.au), opened by Philip Rich, Michael McNamara and Alex Wilcox, the trio behind the local Prince Wine Store that helps South Melburnians find some hard-to-get
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tipples. “They have a great range of wines as it's part of the bottle shop next door – a good wine and a little antipasto is a great thing,” Lindsay says. For pubs, the Meatworksco supremo picks Lamaro's Bodega (273-279 Cecil Street; lamarosbodega.com.au), which has a Spanish/South American accent (“I love the wood-grilled rockling”) and cooks Greenvale Heritage Breed free-range pork over an asado wood grill. For a caffeine hit try Dimattina (173 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne; dimattinacoffee.com.au), the Lygon Street institution that opened a specialist espresso bar in South Melbourne in 2008. “It's a non-pretentious, humble place that has great coffee,” Lindsay says. And be on the lookout for plenty more openings in the future. “It's got so much potential and I believe it won't be long before some more serious players open up here,” he says.
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from eight destinations; new Melbourne-Canberra service begins from December 8, 2016 tigerair.com.au
Head south of the Yarra River to get a taste of this burgeoning foodie hub:
MEAT WORKSCO Lindsay’s classic smokehouse housed in a 1930s garage serves up dishes like a smoked brisket baguette, slow-braised sticky beef shin, or a smoked salmon and pomegranate salad. And pair it with something from the cocktails list, like a classic martini or sangria for two. 28-30 Ross Street; meatworksco.com
C L AY P O T S E V E N I N G S T A R Pull up a chair at the bar of this seafood diner on the corner of the market. A waiter will bring over a chalkboard full of fresh seafood cooked simply. An ideal spot to have a lunch that goes on a bit too long. Corner of Cecil and York Streets; claypotseveningstar.net
THE GEORGE HOTEL Opposite South Melbourne market, the George is a great spot for a beer before re-entering the market fray. 139 Cecil Street; tgsm.com.au
ST ALI More warehouses and more coffee, but St. Ali has been around since 2005 and now has a northern outlet and sister cafes Liar Liar and Sensory Lab. It's also set for international expansion with Asian operations on the way. 12-18 Yarra Place; stali.com.au
A D V E R T O R I A L
Meatworksco Smokehouse Bar & Grill
Delicious lunch at Meatworksco
Meatworksco's industrial steam punk interior
V
enture east from Crown Casino along Clarendon Street and you'll eventually pick up the scent of hickory smoke in the air. Follow your nose and it'll lead you off Clarendon Street among old warehouses to a converted 1930s motor mechanics garage called Meatworksco Smokehouse Bar & Grill. Enter via industrial steal doors. The interior certainly has a WOW factor; it's wildly industrial yet warm and tactile, built with five tonnes of steel and 14 months of hard labour. Welding and pop riveted together, the owners have created an impressive shipwright interior; it’s like an old seaport building. The design detail is comprehensive while retaining the old warehouse features to create an impressive steam punk interior. Order a smoked red meat platter, pickled cucumber and carrot salad or wok tossed Asian greens with a glass of playful shiraz or a torn smoked pork burger with house slaw, chipotle mayonnaise in a milk bun with a glass of craft tap beer – delicious!
Smoked red meat dinner feast
Busy lunchtime crowd
Whether it's brunch, lunch or dinner, Meatworksco offer an inspired menu with influences from around the world. Asia, Europe, Middle East and North America. They use various cooking methods to achieve their culinary objectives, like wood smoking, braising,
roasting and char grilling. Most of their meats are cooked low and slow in the smoker. This produces a tender, juicy result and retains the smokey flavours. Meatworksco serve delicious housemade sauces on the side to accompany their dishes and believe great cooking is not about bombarding your taste buds and over saucing the food. Try the 70% couverture fondant for dessert or start the evening with a “Knight King”, a smoked rye whisky cocktail. Either way, Meatworksco have got you covered. This is definitely a go-to place in Melbourne, and it’s only a five-minute walk from Crown Casino in Southbank.
MEATWORKSCO SMOKEHOUSE BAR & GRILL Open for brunch, lunch and dinner, please check the website for further details. 28 Ross Street, South Melbourne 3205 | Bookings with Dimmi or phone 03 9041 5727 info@meatworksco.com | Facebook/Instagram @meatworksco | www.meatworksco.com Smoked loukaniko hot dog
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THE POINTY END
THE FEAST 1 0F 2
WHY IS THERE BLUE ALGAE IN MY LATTE? The one-time coffee staple is getting a spicy makeover
WORDS PAUL KRISTOFF ILLUSTRATION KEV GAHAN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM
I
t used to be so simple. You'd walk into a cafe and ask for a coffee, and the response would usually be “black or white” and “sugar or no sugar”. But this all changed with the rise of the “third wave” coffee movement. Beginning in the 1990s – and really taking off in the 2000s – the third wave of coffee focuses on all stages of production, from growing the coffee bean, to roasting the bean, to the final completed brew. Flavour, origin and sustainability are important, along with the use of alternative brewing methods such as Chemex, V60 and AeroPress. But while the third-wave coffee movement has been entrenching itself in cafes across Australia, the public's desire to eat sustainably grown organic food, to find superfoods with various health benefits, and to get more creative using plant-based menu options, has also been gaining traction. Given the similarities in philosophy, it was only a matter of time before the two merged, which leads us to the “uncommon latte”. A latte in its truest sense is a simple drink consisting of a shot of espresso and steamed cow's milk. Usually the only variant to this has been the replacement of cow's milk with soy milk. However,
recently some cafes have started to experiment using an array of milks such as almond, rice, and coconut, while also replacing the espresso and caffeine component with other ingredients. What began as a way to cater for people with caffeine or lactose intolerances has evolved into something much greater. When it comes to “uncommon” lattes in the West, most people are familiar with the chai latte. Hailing from India, where it's called masala chai (chai simply means tea, while masala means mixed-spice), the chai latte became popular in the West in the mid-90s and contains steamed milk infused with a mixture of spices including cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, black peppercorn and black tea. In the West, chai lattes dropped in popularity as the fad ran its course, but they've since returned to menus as part of the uncommon latte wave; the calming and restorative benefits of the spices are now a key promotional tool. Another latte that has become popular in the past few years is the matcha latte. As with many uncommon lattes, the matcha latte has a long history, with its origins in China during the Tang dynasty. In the years since, this powdered green tea, ê
COFFEE TIME IN A US TR A LIA Research by company Square showed that Sydney wakes up earlier than Melbourne, with peak sales for the Harbour City at 8am compared to a 9:30am peak down south. Lattes, uncommon and otherwise, are the favourite drinks of most Aussie states, with Tassie coffee drinkers favouring cappuccinos.
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THE POINTY END
"WHAT BEGAN AS A WAY TO CATER FOR PEOPLE WITH CAFFEINE OR LACTOSE INTOLERANCES HAS EVOLVED INTO SOMETHING MUCH GREATER" while declining in popularity in China, has become a staple in Japan where it's used not just as a drink, but as a flavouring for a wide variety of dishes, mostly sweets. Not only does it taste great, but it's also packed with antioxidants and can help with concentration. In the West, matcha is mixed with steamed milk and, bang, you have the matcha latte. Most recently it has been the turmeric, or “golden” latte, that has been getting all the attention. This caffeine-free concoction is yellow/orange in colour and contains a blend of turmeric (fresh or powdered) and other spices like cinnamon, ginger and black pepper. It often uses almond milk but, like any uncommon latte, a wide variety of milks can be used. But while it's all the rage at the moment, the turmeric latte has actually been around for a very long time. In India, turmeric milk is called haldi doodh, has been used for centuries, and is known for both its flavour and its restorative and anti-inflammatory properties.
THE FEAST 2 0F 2
However, with all these varieties, the one thing all uncommon lattes have in common is their use of a spice or superfood that has health benefits, blended with a non-dairy milk in a way that tastes good while not diluting the health benefits of the feature spice. And for those who still want their caffeine hit, most places will also offer their uncommon lattes “dirty” with a shot of espresso. Is this a trend that will last, or will we forget about these weird and wonderful lattes in a few years' time? I think it's a trend that's here to stay, but who knows. In the meantime, here's where to get your uncommon latte fix around Australia.
tbps. (Bayswater, WA) The Perth suburb of Bayswater is becoming a hot spot for interesting food venues and tbsp., which combines Asian and Western flavours, is one of the best breakfast spots in town. And it's not just the food that gets the fusion treatment, with tbps. offering the delicious Taro Latte, full of dietary fibre, vitamins and minerals.
Matcha Mylkbar (St Kilda, VIC) This plant-based cafe focuses on sustainability and superfoods. On the menu you'll find around 10 different kinds of latte, each with a description explaining its purported health benefits. Matcha Mylkbar recently released a vitamin and nutrient-rich Blue Algae Latte, which is brewed by combining powdered active blue algae with ginger and lemon, then adding coconut milk and a yellow flower.
Nutrition Republic (Adelaide, TAS) Nutrition Republic is a family-owned business that aims to “change the world one sip at a time.” The menu is predominantly plant-based and uses natural, locally sourced, minimally processed organic ingredients where possible. Try the caffeine-free Red Latte, which uses rooibos, is rich in antioxidants and can aid digestion as well as boost the immune system.
Ruby Lane (Manly, NSW) Manly's Ruby Lane serves up a variety of nutrient-rich dishes using sustainable, locally sourced organic produce where possible. Try the dandelion chai latte with a dash of honey – it's a warm, caffeinefree liver boost that aids digestion. Wilde Kitchen (Brisbane, QLD) Brisbane's Wilde Kitchen serves up food for those with an active lifestyle. Everything is prepared daily on site using natural, unprocessed ingredients sourced from local suppliers. Check out the Golden Milk Latte for a tasty immune boost.
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THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture for online magazine The City Lane, and one-third of craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective. Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.
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THE POINTY END
Take a bite out of Margaret River
WORDS PAUL CHAI PHOTOS TOURISM WA
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f there is one thing that eclipses the amazing view at Margaret River winery Wills Domain, it's the contemporary Australian menu by chef Seth James. Seth started as an apprentice chef at Brisbane restaurant Seasalt at Armstrong’s before relocating to Melbourne in 2010 and taking up a position at Cutler & Co, the flagship operation from Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell. In 2014, Seth headed west, and he now runs the kitchen at Wills Domain: a family-run affair presided over by Darren Haunold. “I was initially asked to just visit Wills Domain,” Seth says. “But once here, I decided Margaret River was too amazing to leave – so I ended up staying until this day.” Fresh produce is one of the things that draws chefs to the region. There are great markets, unique local products and opportunities for coastal foraging, but Seth goes as far as diving for his own abalone. “Diving for abalone was a surreal,
yet amazing experience,” he says. “I went out with a local operator who showed me how to look for ocean-grown abalone off the coast of Augusta.” Each year in November all this fresh produce, local talent – and an international roster of guest chefs that last year included UK chefs Marco Pierre White and Antonio Carluccio – comes together at the Margaret River Gourmet Escape, a weekend of food, wine and fun. “It does a fantastic job at putting the spotlight on a very diverse and unique region, and brings a lot of tourism and global exposure to the south-west,” Seth says. This year’s edition includes Nigella Lawson and Rick Stein among a host of local names like Frank Camorra, Guy Grossi and Aussie expat David Thompson. And so, with more going on than a Heston Blumenthal recipe, we asked Seth to give us the inside edge to exploring the region during the Gourmet Escape… ê
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THE POINTY END Chef Seth James’s top Margaret River picks Long lunch in the vines Cullen Wines Based in Wilyabrup in the south-west, this winery is big on producing biodynamic fruit with limited chemicals used in the growing process. “I love Colin Anderson’s food and the general atmosphere at Cullen Wines,” Seth says. 4323 Caves Road, Wilyabrup; cullenwines.com.au
Place to get creative The Margaret River coastline The rough-and-ready beauty, the crashing waves and the majesty of the place where the Margaret River collides with the ocean – there's plenty to get inspired about along this famous stretch of coastline. “Sitting atop the clifftops lining the region's coastline is so calming,” Seth says. margaretriver.com
Catch up with friends The Pour House Bar + Kitchen This Dunsborough craft beer haunt has
get a taste of the south-west From the rugged coastline (above) to wineries like Cullen Wines (below) and fresh food markets (opposite), Margaret River is foodie heaven. Inset, opposite: chef Seth James.
MARGARET RIVER GOURMET ESCAPE This year the Gourmet Escape runs from November 18-20. Get down to the Audi Gourmet Beach BBQ, where celeb chefs create gourmet grills right on the beach, or visit the Gourmet Village to get a taste of the region without having to drive around. gourmetescape.com.au
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over 100 brews to taste and has a summer pop-up bar called Meat People serving up always-popular American barbecue. 26 Dunn Bay Road, Dunsborough; pourhouse.com.au
Local foodie secret Jake’s Break “Jake’s Break in Dunsborough does a decent burger,” Seth says. 1/18 Griffin Drive, Dunsborough; facebook.com/JakesBreak
WILLS DOMAIN To sample Seth James’ modern-Oz menu, grab a table at Wills Domain (above). The vines here were planted back in 1985 and they offer some unusual European grapes like scheurebe, a white variety primarily grown in Germany and Austria. Cnr Abbey Farm Road and Brash Road, Yallingup; willsdomain.com.au
Top local brew Black Brewing Co From Colonial Brewing Company (colonialbrewingco.com.au) to Eagle Bay Brewing Co (eaglebaybrewing.com.au), there is no shortage of beer to go with the wine that Margaret River is so famous for. Although not a big beer drinker, Seth offers up the unpretentious surrounds of Black Brewing Co, where you can spend an afternoon on the back deck tasting their creations. 3517 Caves Road, Wilyabrup; blackbrewingco.com.au
Place for dessert Yallingup Cheese Company “I'm more of a savoury person,” Seth says. This artisan cheesemaker uses organic jersey milk from a small patch of farmland just 25km from the cheesery itself. 1071 Wildwood Road, Yallingup Siding; yallingupcheese.com.au
Best market Margaret River Farmers' Market “In my opinion, this market is one of the best in the south-west,” Seth says. Lot 272 Bussell Highway, Margaret River; facebook.com/margaretriverfarmersmarket
“Sitting atop the clifftops lining the region's coastline is so calming”
Favourite local ingredient Rustleberry “It’s a cross between a blackberry and raspberry found in Manjimup,” Seth says.
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Perth from Sydney, Melbourne and Denpasar tigerair.com.au
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THE POINTY END
TRAVEL & ANIMALS 1 0F 2
THE PASSENGER A round-table chat with three different travellers. This month's topic: wildlife holidays Sarah Mitchell, animal lover
I'm less into the more manufactured animal experiences put on by zoos and the like, but I'd be up for them if they have a good pedigree. We have come a long way from some of the more unsavoury animal attractions and we know to make sure the park or zoo is caring for the animal correctly, or helping conserve a species endangered in the wild. I wouldn't blithely go elephant riding in Thailand, but I've visited a camp that rehabilitates abused elephants, and bathed and played with an elephant once I was ê satisfied the camp was on the level.
ILLUSTRATION GREGORY BALDWIN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM
It’s true, I love animals. And while they are not the only reason I travel, wildlife or animal encounters would likely dominate my top-10 travel experiences. For example? Going on safari for the first time in Kenya, the thrill of chasing sightings of leopards, elephants and white rhino across the savannah; my first sighting of a panda bear in the airy enclosure at Adelaide Zoo, watching it tear apart
bamboo with its teeth; kayaking with humpback whales in Byron Bay, so near to the majestic creatures that the spray from their blowholes would reach us. When you're close to animals, you feel close to nature. Particularly in the wild – even on a bushwalk when I've startled echidnas, seen koalas lazing in a tree or even made a snake scarper – being in close proximity to a wild animal is a buzz that's not easily forgotten. I think this is imprinted on us as kids, with the many trips to the zoo most families take. All kids are into animals and it's only when we grow up that we tend to forget that connection. Seeing them in their own habitat can make us feel like a kid again – give us that same feeling of wonder.
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THE POINTY END
"CHASING ANIMALS IS LIKE CHASING AFTER A GIRL WHO DOESN'T LIKE YOU. ANIMALS ARE JUST NOT INTO YOU" But the best animal experiences will always be the ones you don't expect. After hiking over the escarpment to Wineglass Bay in Tasmania and being the only person on the beach, I laid my towel out on the sand and went down to feel the water. When I turned around, there was a huge grey kangaroo sitting right in the centre of my towel. He sat there for quite a while; I had a swim, and he still refused to move when I came out of the water. He eventually wandered on; he got a rest and I got a good travel story.
Connor McLeod, people person I can safely say the only animals I look forward to on holidays are presented to me on a plate. Nothing exotic; I don't get off on eating anything weird and wonderful, but I don't enjoy communing with live animals either. That's for David Attenborough – and for other animals. I don't camp, I don't safari and I don't do zoos; all of these things sound far too much like hard work to be a holiday. Why go looking for something that doesn't like you? Animals, very wisely, do their best to avoid humans, the dominant predator on
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the planet that destroys their environment and tries to kill them for fun. Running around trying to commune with these creatures is undignified, like chasing after a girl you know doesn't like you. Give it up – animals are just not into you. I holiday to commune with people, meet new friends and learn more about other human cultures. There's plenty in the human world to keep me travelling and keep me amused, I don't need to go chasing other species around in a 4WD with a floppy hat on sideways. I don't really hate animals, but I'm highly ambivalent about them. It's not a popular position either, as disliking animals (or babies) is pretty much tantamount to admitting to be some kinds of heartless monster. No one thinks cats are monsters, and it's clear they hate me. My most memorable travel experiences are connecting with people. Talking until dawn with new friends on the turret of a castle in Cannes in France; being invited to a stranger's wedding in Laos after just meeting them, and the resulting wedding (which was a hoot); making friends in numerous bars and feeling for that evening like they were friends for life (some were, some not so much). I’ll take people over animals any day.
Paul Chai, cautious animal I learned to be very wary of animal encounters when I surprised my wife on her birthday. My supposedly original present was an hour of her feeding lemurs at a UK primate protection park. What could possibly go wrong with a thoughtful gift like that? She pretended to be happy and it was only upon arrival at the park, several hours out of London, that she confessed she had a phobia about primates after being attacked by a gang of monkeys in Bali who were determined to ransack her backpack.
TRAVEL & ANIMALS 2 0F 2
Then there was the “getting back to nature” weekend with my two young sons when I tried to show them how harmless a possum that was scaring them was. I bent down wearing my best Crocodile Dundee animal-sedating face – and the brushtail possum bit me so hard on the finger that there was blood (and screaming, freaked out children) everywhere. But, while I may not seek out animal encounters, there are several instances when a wildlife sighting has enhanced a trip. I still remember finding an injured bat as a child in Jenolan Caves, seeing a sea turtle surface next to me when I was sea kayaking in Sydney, or saving an echidna on a road by picking him up and carrying him to safety (no bites this time). I found the perfect combination recently on a trip to Tanzania with Intrepid Travel. It was a biking holiday in the north of the country and the focus was firmly on two-wheel travel, but we were also the first group allowed cycling access to Arusha National Park, so while we were pumping our way up a particularly dusty – and high – hill, we stopped for a break and some water. Our panting (and complaining) stirred a trio of giraffes that were hiding in the nearby trees, and made us all smile for the first time since the bottom of the hill. To me, animals can add to a holiday, but should rarely be the focus of one.
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THE POINTY END
Tune out in the Daintree
WORDS JO STEWART
W
ith mobile phone towers going up at a rapid rate and the internet’s tentacles reaching further each year, there are few places left in the world where your smartphone won't ping with a new message every few minutes. While it's great to feel wanted, it's not so great to feel that each day speeds by in a blur of texts, tweets, tags and notifications. Luckily, Australia is one hell of a big country. There are plenty of places where you can choose to drop out from the tech scene for a while. And the Daintree area of Tropical North Queensland is one of the most holiday-friendly destinations to seek some solace in nature and ignore the Wi-Fi – even when it's available to you at the resorts. If the thought of being without your phone leaves you in a cold sweat, you're exactly the type of person who'd benefit from what locals call the “Daintree Detox”. Located in the southern part of the Daintree National Park, the Mossman Gorge Centre is the ideal place to start your digital withdrawal.
On a Ngadiku Dreamtime Walk, you'll be taken deep into the rainforest – so deep it's hard to tell if it's day or night, due to the coverage of the canopy above. While the canopy's coverage is A1, mobile phone coverage is nonexistent once you're walking within this part of the Daintree. Accompanied by a local Indigenous guide, along the way you'll learn about the Kuku Yalanji way of life, including the various uses of trees and plants – they're utilised for everything from life-giving medicine to deadly weaponry. Standing in the shadows of ancient trees covered in twisting vines, it's an experience so far removed from city life that it's hard to believe Cairns is only an hour's drive away. Home to only a couple of hundred local residents, Cape Tribulation has long been a hot spot for environmentalists and nature lovers hooked on the idea of easy living far away from the Big Smoke. And even though tourists now frequent the area, Cape Tribulation is in no danger of shaking off its greenie, hippie reputation anytime soon. ê
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THE POINTY END
T U N E O U T, D R O P I N While you can access resort Wi-Fi, the idea of visiting the Daintree is to give yourself a digital detox and get back to nature.
“Once you hit the ferry your phone will cease to work, and you'll officially switch to Daintree time” A ferry crossing is the only easy way to get there, and once aboard your smartphone ceases to work; you'll officially switch to Daintree time. Nestled in the ancient green arms of the world's oldest rainforest, Cape Tribulation is the ultimate place to switch off and drop out of the digital scene for a spell. With affordable accommodation options ranging from dorms to private cabins perched only 20 metres from the beach, staying at the Cape Tribulation Beach House is like living in one big commune. Cabins are scattered throughout the rainforestfringed property. Meanwhile, with a gloriously croc-free pool and a large outdoor area used as a bar by night (and a breakfast area the morning after), Cape Tribulation Beach House is the perfect place to disconnect from the rest of the world and embrace the moment – even if that moment is just sitting on the porch of your cabin with a coldie. Seven acres of beachfront provide ample space for long walks (or runs if you're super keen), and the Cape Tribulation lookout offers supreme views of
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this unique, UNESCO World Heritage listed part of the world: where the forest meets the sea. Overscheduling yourself is just not a possibility here, so whether you want to sit by the pool with a good book, hit the soft sand for a date with Mr Vitamin D, bliss out by arranging an ocean-side massage or spend an hour watching a golden orb spider construct an epic web, it's entirely up to you. Either way, in the Daintree you'll be surprised by how much time you have on your hands when there's no Candy Crushing, Snapchatting, WhatsApping, Instagramming or emailing to interrupt your day. For more information visit capetribbeach.com.au, mossmangorge.com.au
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Cairns from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane; tigerair.com.au
Port Douglas & Daintree
Where rainforest meets the reef
Tropical North Queensland
Tropical Journeys
Jungle Surfing Canopy Tours
Tropical Journeys is proud to be one of the region's leading family owned tour operators providing first class experiences to both the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree Rainforest. Calypso offers snorkelling & diving to Agincourt & Opal Reefs and half day snorkelling options, Aquarius Low Isles luxury sailing, Twilight Sailing and Daintree Tours.
This unique eco-adventure takes you into the beating heart of the Daintree Rainforest on a guided ziplining tour through six tree platforms with spectacular bird's eye views over the treetops and out to the reef. Eight tours departing daily from Cape Tribulation, suitable for all ages from 3 to 103. Direct phone bookings receive 1 free photo per person when you quote Tiger Air.
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Explore the Daintree Rainforest from above & below with Back Country Bliss. We offer a range of small group activities to suit all travellers; from Jungle Surfing Canopy Tours to River Drift Snorkeling. Mention this advert for a $10 discount! 07 4099 3677 www.backcountrybliss.com.au
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#portdouglasdaintree Where rainforest meets the reef
THE POINTY END
We sent a drone to hover above Hobart's waterfront so you can scope out the hot spots to visit...
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THE HENRY JONES ART HOTEL Making use of some of the most historic buildings on the Hobart wharf, this boutique hotel fuses history with modern design touches. thehenryjones.com
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HOBART BREWING Independent brewer Hobart Brewing Company was co-founded by American Scott Overdorf, who was part of the craft beer revolution in Colorado. Grab a beer in the “beer park� with a firepit and food trucks. hobartbrewingco.com.au
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PENNICOT T WILDERNESS JOURNEYS One of the pioneers of Tasmania's tourism renaissance in the past decade, Robert Pennicott offers cruises to Bruny Island, Tasman Island and Iron Pot, as well as foodie adventures around Hobart. pennicottjourneys.com.au
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BROOKE STREET PIER Over 150 years old, this historic pier is now a collection of traders including the Brooke Street Larder and Grandvewe cheese company. brookestreetpier.com
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SAL AMANCA MARKET Just back from the main dock area is this food, art and gourmet produce market, which runs from 8am-3pm. salamanca.com.au
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drone's-eye view
hob a r t doc k s TA SM A NI A
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DRONES FOR HIRE We'd like you to meet dronesforhire.com.au – Australia's largest online directory of drone operators. Their team sent us this stunning drone shot of Hobart's wharf district. To get images of your house, construction site, or even to map a large area visit, dronesforhire.com.au.
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THE POINTY END THE SPLURGE
NOTEL CBD, Melbourne
W
hy it's worth it: Notel may be the most “Melbourne” thing to happen this year. In a laneway, on a rooftop, carpark owner James Fry has lifted six silver, pimped-out Airstream trailers for guests to spend the night in. Think of Notel as the hippest, brightest trailer park around, with a splashed-paint mural centrepiece by local artist Ash Keating. “When I came up with the concept I wanted to do something that is a very
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different experience, but a local’s experience at the same time,” James says. Bang for your buck: Putting aside the wow factor of the gleaming trailers arranged around a bright red carpet, there's also the view over the Melbourne skyline to consider. James came up with the idea when he and some mates used to climb a steel ladder at the rear of the carpark and sit on the
roof having some beers, imagining what it would be like to stay up there. Now, with his imagination writ large, you can download an app as your room key and let yourself into this exclusive little stay: simply touch your phone to the main doors and then locate your trailer using the number plates. Inside your Airstream is an iPad Pro that acts as your online concierge – plus James and his team are just a text away. “Enjoy what we're about in Melbourne – street art, coffee culture, laneways: three simple things,” he says. The digs: The Airstream trailers have been customised to produce a stay of studied simplicity. A large bed at one end, thoughtful bag space underneath and some bench seating opposite your mini-bar fridge that comes packed with the house brew of famous Melbourne restaurant Chin Chin, as well as some tipples from Nelson Wine Company; there are also some basic snacks. All trailers have an ensuite to ensure privacy and James is proudest of the showers, which required some serious rewelding to make sure
guests didn't have to hunch while they used them. For a premium experience book the “Airstream with Benefits” – it's the first trailer on your right when you enter Notel and it has a private deck with views to the street. Oh, and a hot tub. Must-do experience: Flit from one rooftop to another. Try the newly renovated Crafty Squire from the team at James Squire brews (thecraftysquire.com.au), the dimly lit garden at Loop Bar in Meyers Place (looponline.com.au), or the Astroturfed original Rooftop Bar, home of Rooftop Cinema (rooftopcinema.com.au). With all that in mind, make sure you check with
James and the team, as they'll have all the info on the latest openings and some neat tricks to get you into popular places. The damage: A standard trailer will set you back $395 per night, but if you want the Airstream with Benefits, expect to pay $440 – and to wait a while. It was booked out until May at the time of going to press. Harper Lane, Melbourne; notel.com.au
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au
WORDS PAUL CHAI
deluxe tr ailer park Notel offers an experience that's as Melbourne as an AFL Grand Final – but with more Airstream trailers.
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THE POINTY END
Eat healthy in Bali
WORDS AND PICTURES IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER
B
intang beers. Burgers and fries. Big bowls of nasi goreng – Indonesian fried rice with chicken or prawns and topped with a deep-fried egg. These are typical of the foods and drinks consumed by Australian tourists in Bali. But in Canggu, a trendsetting beachside enclave north of Seminyak, chefs are drawing crowds with lean, green vegetarian menus crammed with big, flavoursome salads, superfoods like kale and quinoa, and raw cakes and desserts. Popular haunts include Avocado Cafe, the organic eatery of Motion Fitness boot camp; Green Garden Cafe, Bali's home of the raw lasagne; and the Dojo co-working space, aka Silicon Bali, makers of Instagram-famous Nalu Bowls – delicious granola-smoothie hybrids.
Then there's the Shady Shack Bali, a whitewashed plantation-style eatery encircled by breezy green rice fields that began trading in March. The new “it” place for healthy eaters in Canggu, the Shady Shack is packed every day with hipsters, digital nomads, models, yogis and surfers so hungry they could eat their boards. Yet you won't find a sausage roll or rasher of bacon in sight. “Vegetarian restaurants have taken off in Canggu because the kind of people who come here are into healthy pursuits like surfing and yoga and more into nature,” says Justin Masters, the Perth-born chef behind the Shady Shack. Masters is no newcomer to Indonesia. After cutting his teeth as an apprentice at a gastro pub in Perth and La Perdrix Blanche in the south of France, ê
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THE POINTY END
he spent four years feeding hungry surfers on charter boats at the Mentawai Islands in western Indonesia. There he developed a signature cooking style of burgers in whole wheat buns, fruit frappes and homemade cakes that turned his first Balinese restaurant, Betelnut Cafe, into a Canggu institution. “The Shady Shack is Betelnut's vegetarian sister – big portions, mostly vegan, though with dairy products too,” says Masters' partner Gypsy Wilson-Webster, also from Perth. “But while Betelnut is a healthy take on fast food, at the Shady Shack we have a little more attention to detail with lots of little components in each bowl and flavours from right around the world: Japan, India and the Mediterranean.” Brimming with tropical colours, the Shady Shack's bowls can pass as modern art. The “Cauli” rice bowl comes with kale and onion bajis, fresh greens, grilled carrot, charcoal tortillas, coconut spice and raw green chutney. The haloumi cheese
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VEGETARIAN DELIGHTS IN BALI In Canggu, places like the Shady Shack (above) are offering diners healthy cuisine with a Balinese twist, and plenty of other flavours from around the world.
Top Canggu veggie eateries THE SHADY SHACK BALI Jalan Tanah Barak 53; +62 819 1639 5087
AV O C A D O C A F E Jalan Batu Bolong 69B; motionfitnessbali.com
GREEN GINGER Jalan Raya Semat 67; +62 361 9374124
DOJO CO-WORKING SPACE Jalan Batu Meja 88; dojobali.org/en
BETELNUT CAFE Jalan Batu Bolong 60; +62821 4680 7233
bowl has pickled beetroot, quinoa, rocket, cucumber, avocado, tomato, roasted peppers, olives, baba ghanoush, crispy chickpeas, tahini and za'atar spice. The Shady Shack's all-day breakfast options can be topped with “onsen eggs”. A cooking style similar to poaching from the hot springs of Japan, where the water temperature remains a steady 71.11°C, onsening gives the yolk a creamy texture without changing its raw orangey colour. Masters' finest creation is the “choc-top” – a coconut milk-based smoothie blended with banana, dates, cashew butter, flaxseed, ginseng, maca and cacao sprinkles that doesn't just replicate an old-fashioned stomach-bloating milkshake; it bests it. “I didn't want guys who got dragged here by their girlfriends to freak out,” the chef says. “In Canggu you get all types, so we cater for everybody.”
“Vegetarian restaurants have taken off in Canggu because the kind of people who come here are into healthy pursuits like surfing and yoga”
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Bali from Perth, Adelaide and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au
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Sprawl you can eat A vibrant dining scene is hiding in plain sight in Brisbane's suburbs. Matt Shea grabs his knife and fork and heads out of the inner city PHOTO MORGAN ROBERTS
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brisbane food
W
hat is Ben O'Donoghue doing here? In the backstreets of the Brisbane south-side suburb of Annerley, he sits at his laptop in his chef whites, writing menus and ordering stock in preparation for a busy weekend. O'Donoghue is best known for his work hosting television shows such as Surfing the Menu and Drive Thru Australia, as well as cookbooks such as Ben's BBQ Bible and Ben's Meat Bible. On any given week he might pop up at a food expo in Melbourne, or maybe host a well-heeled cooking demonstration at Sanctuary Cove. He's a bona fide celebrity chef. So it's natural to wonder why he's working away in the back of a cafe at the confluence of three treelined streets, apparently in the middle of nowhere. Outside, a woman is yanked along by a couple of labradors. Across the road, a bored school kid hangs from a jacaranda tree. The cafe is Billykart Kitchen (1 Eric Crescent, Annerley; billykart.com.au). And these days, this is ground zero for O'Donoghue and his wife and business partner, Dee. He points out the window. “All the hills in the area converge right here,” he says. “A local lady wrote on the public noticeboard about her memories growing up here, and how kids used to ride their billy karts down these hills. That's where Dee got the name.” It might be 7km from the CBD and surrounded by ancient “Queenslander” homes, but on any given weekend, this former corner store pumps. Arrive at Billykart Kitchen without a booking for a 10am breakfast and expect to take a coffee and the newspaper while you wait for a table. “When we were doing the refurb, no one was ê
“Brisbane has these pockets. These hubs of suburbia. They're not known outside the city, but they're recognised by locals”
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“Arrive without a booking for a 10am breakfast and expect to take a coffee and the newspaper while you wait for a table” coming past here. And I was thinking to myself, ‘What am I doing?’” O'Donoghue says. “And then on that first Saturday we opened, we did 270 people. It has been going ever since.” But why here? O'Donoghue has the pull to open a superstar venue in the middle of the city. In 2012, he and Dee were looking at buying a house in the area when they spotted what was then the Clifton Hill Store. “We thought, ‘Wouldn't that make a great cafe,’” he says. “The idea was to set up something that gave us full autonomy and work-life balance. We wanted to do the style of food we wanted to do.” After some persistence, the couple managed to buy the store lock, stock and barrel. They set about knocking down a bunch of internal walls and replacing the floor at the front of the venue. Then Angus Munro from local design firm Marc&Co was given a simple brief for the interior design. The result is a cool, airy space, punctuated by bright furniture and Billykart’s distinctive Tony Gooley-designed neon signage. An imaginative, dynamic menu does the rest. Outside, a verge was turned into a herb garden, open to locals. “Sometimes we go across the road and pinch some lychees from the tree, when they're in season,” O’Donoghue laughs. “It works
BEN O'DONOGHUE HAS OPTED FOR WORK AND LIFE BAL ANCE IN THE SUBURBS
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brisbane food for everyone … After being away I really enjoy coming back to work in this space. And what's really great is we have some fantastic regulars. You see babies born, families grow. You don't get that in a city restaurant.” But the O'Donoghues would be the first to admit they didn't invent suburban dining in Brisbane. The city's legendary urban sprawl long ago cultivated a trend of hidden eateries, degustation menus served inside former hardware shops and converted Queenslanders. You need to explore the city to find them. “Brisbane has these pockets,” O'Donoghue says. “These little hubs of suburbia. They're not known outside the city, but they’re definitely recognised by locals.” It’s a trend that's only becoming more marked, as superstar chefs and barkeeps take a step back from the churn of inner city venues and look to settle in the suburbs with their young families. New and old, here are 10 restaurants, cafes and bars to discover.
85 MISKIN ST Brent Farrell is, by this stage, a Toowong icon. For years the young chef peddled a high-end take on his exquisite French cuisine at Brent’s: the Dining Experience. Hidden in an old convenience store at the bottom of an almost-vertical suburban street, it quickly became a local secret, and then a Brisbane favourite. Now named 85 Miskin St, Farrell has loosened his collar and recast the restaurant as a
CASUAL BUT EXQUISITE; CURED TROUT IS ON THE MENU AT 85 MISKIN ST
BILLYK AR T WA S NAMED AFTER KIDS THAT USED TO PL AY IN THE ARE A
more casual affair. Still, his enviable skill with dishes such as crisp confit chicken wing and glazed lamb belly remains. Be sure to book. While in the area: visit Brisbane Lookout for stunning views across the city. 85 Miskin Street, Toowong; 85miskinst.com.au
BLOCKHOUSE EAT/DRINK In 2001 the Queensland Government tunnelled an arterial right underneath Nundah, bypassing the northern suburb’s squeezy high street. Soon, a previously down-at-heel area began to gentrify, and Blockhouse Eat/Drink is one of the best results. Once a bikie hangout, earlier this year it became a crisp, white edifice dedicated to champagne and exquisite share plates. It’s classy without being pretentious – and it's on the train line, so you can loosen up afterwards with drinks at Fitz + Potts (1180 Sandgate Road, Nundah; fitzandpotts.com.au), a terrific bolthole over on Sandgate Road. While in the area: head further north to wander the quaint bayside suburbs of Sandgate and Shorncliffe. 130 Ryans Road, Nundah; blockhousecoffee.com.au ê
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ANTIPASTO PL ATES AT PIZZERIA VIOLETTA IN KENMORE
“You see babies born, families grow. You don't get that in a city restaurant”
SICHUAN BANG BANG AND PIZZERIA VIOLETTA When Renata Roberts first opened Sichuan Bang Bang, some Kenmore locals refused to believe what she was serving was Chinese food. But Roberts is a seasoned hospitality vet, refining her craft in Shanghai during that city's boom years. What was initially met with confusion is now a mark of authenticity, Sichuan Bang Bang regarded as one of the best places in town to sample provincial Chinese cuisine. Likewise Pizzeria Violetta, the second part of this Kenmore twohander, which opened early last year. It serves 90-second, 400-degree Napoli-style pizza straight from a specially imported wood-fired oven. While in the area: stop off to explore Mount Coot-tha Botanic Gardens. The beguiling greenway far outclasses its city counterpart. 8/10 Wongabel Street, Kenmore; sichuanbangbang.com.au, pizzeriavioletta.com.au
BARE BONES SOCIETY Once head chef for the classy CBD-based Urbane Group, Kym Machin returned to his home turf of Jindalee to open Bare Bones Society. A bright, breezy oasis in the centre of a home-centre car park, Machin peddles simple, wholesome food with prices to match – think double-smoked ê
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brisbane food
“The Single Guys' bacon-and-egg burger is regarded as one of the best in Brisbane” While in the area: head to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary – arguably the region’s best wildlife sanctuary. 2/2051 Moggill Road, Kenmore; thesingleguys.com
CAMBRIDGE LANE ESPRESSO Brisbane’s southern bayside suburbs are often forgotten by visitors to the city. But Cambridge Lane Espresso is the perfect excuse to visit. Sitting on Manly’s winsome high street and kissed by the bayside breeze, taking breakfast in the lane itself on a Brisbane summer’s morning is a special kind of bliss. Make your second coffee a takeaway and wander the strip and nearby marina. While in the area: explore the speciality shops along Cambridge Parade before driving south to the Cleveland Point Light for lunch. 61 Cambridge Parade, (07) 3396 6029 bacon breakfast burgers, salmon gravlax and corn fritters. The exceptional coffee and well-drilled staff only add to the experience. While in the area: keep heading west on the freeway for a day trip to Toowoomba, taking in its fantastic parks and gardens. Shop 22/34 Goggs Road, Jindalee Home, Jindalee; barebonessociety.com
THE BLIND TIGER
great local food Places like Sichuan Bang Bang (above and below) are bringing city-quality food to the suburbs of Brisbane.
Bulimba has come alive. For years a middling enclave aimed at families, the strip along Oxford Street is now marked by some classy new bars and restaurants. The Blind Tiger is the latest, a darkened speakeasy joined at the hip to
ê
THE SINGLE GUYS Scott Wilson and Ben Graham may have dreamt up The Single Guys one morning over coffee in the Brisbane hot spot of Fortitude Valley, but this classy cafe became a reality in the outer suburb of Kenmore. The duo’s bread and butter is exceptional single origin espresso, usually sourced from Africa – buy a bag of beans to take away and you’ll find the farmer’s name on the back. But the food is top notch as well, The Single Guys’ bacon-and-egg burger regarded as one of the best in Brisbane.
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The Moustachery, a barbershop next door. This is no beer barn; veteran barkeeps Jesse Stowers and Sam Tripet are expert mixologists. Order one of 50 different whiskies and take in the buzzing village life outside. While in the area: walk the river at the end of Oxford Street before catching a latest-release film at the cut-price Balmoral Cineplex. 1B/204 Street, Bulimba; theblindtiger.com.au
THE JUNK BAR The proud recipient of Queensland’s very first small bar licence, The Junk Bar has pedigree. Jamie Trevaskis once ran The Troubadour, an iconic live music venue in the Valley. But when he and partner Mia Goodwin moved to the western suburbs in 2010 and couldn’t find a decent drinking hole, the only thing to do was open one themselves. This Ashgrove speakeasy is the result. From the outside it looks like a simple shopfront, but inside it’s a retro-flavoured cocktail lounge overflowing with knick-knacks. The drinks are, of course, fantastic and weekends tend to feature some of the best live music in town. While in the area: head up the hill to Paddington and explore one of Brisbane’s best high streets. 215 Waterworks Road, Ashgrove; thejunkbar.com.au
GETTA BURGER BARTENDERS JESSE STOWERS AND SAM TRIPET'S BLIND TIGER
BLIND TIGER IS NO SUBURBAN BEER BARN
While many duke it out for the title of city's best burger, Getta Burger has quietly taken over the suburbs. This Ashgrove store is one of the newer additions to the empire. There are plenty of outrageous options here, but go for the titular cheeseburger, topped with onion, pickles, tomato relish and mayo. Finish with a pie-shake. While in the area: Keep travelling west on Waterworks Road for a spectacular drive straight into D'Aguilar National Park. 338 Waterworks Road, Ashgrove; gettaburger.com.au
BOUCHER BISTRO Not even locals tend to venture across Walter Taylor Bridge – that’s how underappreciated the classy western suburb of Graceville is. With the lack of traffic on tree-lined Honour Avenue and adjacent train line, the final impression is of sleepy village within a city. It makes visiting Boucher Bistro an adventure. This French fine-diner matches anything in the city, boasting dishes such as escargot and chateaubriand. While in the area: head to Sherwood Arboretum, which is hugely underrated and often deserted. 365 Honour Avenue, Graceville; boucher.com.au
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane, from five destinations; tigerair.com.au
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catch the breeze on a classic gaff-rigged schooner
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See the best of the Whitsundays (north and south) on a classic schooner over two days. Relax on deck and see the wind fill the sails
Includes 2-hour sail Plus choice of: 4 course tapas at Barcelona Cafe 4 course dinner at Coral Sea Resort.
WED-THURS-FRI-SAT-SUN-MON Whitehaven and Dumbbell Island 7.30-5.30 pm
Family packages available and kids half price.
4.45-6.45 pm. Sunset Sail across Pioneer Bay Slip into the sunset in style with complimentary glass of bubbles and nibbles on a classic gaff-rigged schooner. Return in the moonlight.
Family packages available and kids half price. WE DEPART ABELL POINT MARINA (South Marina). Meet at the meeting place outside Barcelona cafe 15 minutes before the sail.
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DE S T IN AT ION BALI
IAN
A travel writer from Sydney committed to unearthing Bali's lesser seen parts
weekend warriors ONE
DESTINATION,
TWO
DIFFERENT
ADVENTURES
kellee
A fashion designer from Sydney searching and shopping for fun, sun and inspiration in Bali
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WEEKEND WARRIORS
A RRIVA L TIME I check into Kubu Villas (Jalan Raya Seminyak, Gang Plawa 33F, Seminyak; villakubu.com). Kubu was one of the first villas in Seminyak and is still one of the best. I love the traditional Indonesian artwork and interiors. It makes me feel I've arrived in Bali.
CURR YING FAVOUR As soon as I hit the streets I find a neighbourhood “Padang” restaurant. Named after the city on the island of Sumatra where the cooking style originated, Padang food is all about thick, rich coconut-milk curries. Rendang – twice-cooked buffalo meat – is my all-time favourite.
GR A B A B A RG AIN Board shorts. T-shirts. A new pair of thongs. All these things are dirt cheap in Bali – so long as you know where to go. The market stalls in Seminyak Square and the shops running along Jalan Legian south of Bintang Supermarket are bargain hunters' territory.
ian
fills up on Indonesian food and stocks up on essentials in Seminyak
f r id ay
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MOON L A NDING Luna 2 (Jalan Sarinande 22, Seminyak; luna2.com) is a quirky design “studiotel” that appeals to travellers looking for something different in Bali. There's a champagne and caviar bar on the rooftop, a Mondrian-inspired pool and a retro night club in the basement that's very Austin Powers. Yeah, baby!
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REL A X A ND UNWIND Bodyworks (Jalan Kayu Jati 2, Petitenget; bodyworksbali.com) in Seminyak is the perfect place to recharge after a long flight or to meet the girls for a spa date. I've booked a manicure, pedicure and their signature cream hair bath rinse and scalp massage to make my hair shine.
V EGGING OUT After all the spa action I'm feeling peckish, so I hightail it to salad bar Cafe Zucchini (Jalan Kayu Aya 49, Seminyak) for an organic salad packed with feta and quinoa and a green smoothie. It's just what I need to rebalance and keeps me fuelled until dinner.
DESTINATION BALI
TA PA S TIME H A NGING WITH THE BIG KIDS While the cool kids are squeezed like sardines around the pool at the popular Potato Head Beach Club next door, I'm chilling in style with the grown-ups at Alila Seminyak's subliminal beachfront pool (Jalan Taman Ganesha 9, Kerobokan; alilahotels.com). The sunset is mind-blowing. Time for a drink.
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Earlier this year, the first oversees chapter of Movida, Melbourne's famous tapas restaurant, opened at the new Katamama Hotel (Jalan Petitenget 51, Kerobokan; katamama.com) in Seminyak. I've arranged to meet a few friends there for dinner.
H A NK S FOR THE MEMORIES Chef Brent Mills turned the Corner House into a Bondi Beach institution with his thin and crisp Roman-style pizzas. Now he has his own place – Hanks Liquor and Pizza (Jalan Kayu Aya 27X, Oberoi). More than just a pizzeria, Hanks is a hub for the BondiByron-Bali brigade. The place pumps on weekends with live bands and DJs.
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KELLEE
visits a day spa, catches the sunset and hits the dance floor at a Mexican bar
S AIGON S TREE T
SUNSE T DRINK S I'll never forget my first sunset bar experience in Bali 10 years ago when a friend in the know took me to Ku De Ta (Jalan Kayu Aya 9, Seminyak; kudeta.com) – and it's still one of my favourites. It's right on the beachfront with comfy daybeds, divine cocktails, cool tunes and DJs.
Saigon Street (Jalan Petitenget 77X, Seminyak; saigonstreetbali.com) is a hot spot in Bali. I love the spearmint and pink pastel interior and 1980s pop tunes; this place has fun written all over it. And I love the Vietnamese menu. Tonight I'm having the crab dressed with coconut, chilli and lime, and a Miss Saigon cocktail.
SOUTHERN S T Y L E I need to dance off dinner and one of the most energetic places do that is Motel Mexicola (Jalan Kayu Jati 9, Seminyak; motelmexicolabali.com). Like my jewellery label Santos Wish, the venue is Mexican-inspired and full of colours with Day of the Dead theming. Hola amigos, let's dance!
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T WO WHEEL S GOOD I walk down to the beachfront at Legian. My mission: to hire a motorbike for a day trip down to the Bukit Peninsula in Bali's deep south. I ensure the owner gives me the bike's registration papers and that I'm carrying both my Australian and international drivers licences.
DINNER AT BUMBU HIDDEN SECRE T I head south along Jalan Sunset and then veer east over the Mandara Toll Road to the Museum Pasifika (Bali Tourism Development Corp Complex, Block P) in Nusa Dua. With 350 paintings and 250 artefacts from 25 different countries, including crazy face masks from Papua New Guinea, Pasifika is the most understated tourist attraction in Bali. Entry is $7.
While I'm in the neighbourhood I pop into Bumbu Bali (Jalan Pramata, Nusa Dua). One of the island's most famous restaurants, Bumbu Bali dishes up gourmet versions of food Balinese people eat at home. I order the seafood and lemongrass satay sticks, slow-roasted duck in banana leaves and a black rice pudding for dessert.
IAN
heads off on a road trip down to the Bukit Peninsula to see temples and a museum
S AT UR D AY
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MORNING WA L K
COFFEE , QUICK ! I must have a coffee before I do anything today, so I walk down to Sisterfields (Jalan Kayu Cendana 7, Seminyak; sisterfieldsbali.com). There's always a free table or I can sit at the bar and have a large latte while replying to work emails on my phone.
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Now that I've had a caffeine hit, I go for a long walk along the beach all the way to Legian and back. The scenery in Bali is brimming with inspiration for my Instagram account, like these two cuties I snapped outside a temple behind the beach.
L UNCH WITH THE GIRL S Catching up for lunch with some of my BFF expat friends: Chloe, who's an interior designer; and Varnie, who owns Nuala (nualaretreats.com), a health retreat. We're meeting at La Lucciola (Jalan Kayu Aya, Kerobokan), a Balinese institution. It has picture-postcard views.
DESTINATION BALI
PRIVATE BE ACH From Nusa Dua I take the inland road to Bingin Beach (Jalan Pantai Bingin, Pecatu) on the peninsula's west coast. A steep rocky path leads from the car park down to the beach, giving me 180-degree ocean views every step of the way.
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TEMPL E OF DA NCE I get back on my bike and follow Jalan Labuansait for 15 minutes to the south-west corner of Bali. Perched upon a steep cliff at the end of the road is Uluwatu Temple, 800 years old and absolutely magnificent. I make sure I get a front row seat for the daily 6pm “kecak” dance performance, where 50 Balinese performers chant hymns and dance.
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PR AWN S TA R S On my way back to Seminyak, I stop for dinner at Sundara (Jalan Bukit Permai, Jimbaran; sundarabali.com), the beachfront restaurant and bar at the Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay. I find a table in the al fresco area near the fire pit and order a serving of grilled Jimbaran Bay river prawns and a Bloom of Sundara cocktail.
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KELLEE
walks along the beach, meets the girls for lunch and buys a new bikini – or two
HIS TORIC DINNER
SHOPPING!!! Starting at Seminyak Square, we work our way west along Jalan Kayu Aya. There are a lot of French designers in Bali right now and the latest is Gooseberry Intimates (gooseberryintimates.com), an underwear designer. I also need to pick up a bikini or two from the Natasha Gan boutique (natashagan.com.au), something I do every time I come to Bali.
ROOM AT THE FINN’S We Uber it to Finn's Beach Club (Jalan Raya Pantai Berawa, Canggu; finnsbeachclub.com) in Canggu. This is the hottest new place in town for sunset. It has a really relaxed vibe with a good mix of people – tourists, expats, lots of cute puppies, everyone just unwinding.
There are so many good restaurants in Bali but Ji is unique. It sits inside a 300-year-old wooden temple from the Indonesian island of Java that was taken apart, shipped over and reconstructed piece-by-piece on the grounds of Hotel Tugu (Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu; tuguhotels.com) in Canggu. The menu is Japanese with lots of sushi, grilled seafood selections and hot and cold sake to choose from.
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WEEKEND WARRIORS
SPL A SHING OUT After my workout, I cool down at the Splash Water Park (splashbali.com) next door. The water slides are no joke. They're scary as hell, especially the five-storey Super Bowl. And unlike water parks in Australia, there are no boring queues or crowds to contend with.
WORK IT OUT I use the Bluebird taxi app to order a taxi to take me to the Canggu Club (Jalan Pantai Berawa, Canggu; cangguclub.com) where I kickstart my day with an hour's workout at the gym. Entry is $30 or $18 for kids.
POOL TIME I don't go far for lunch. I don't even leave the club. I sashay over to Splash's poolside bar and order a big serving of bacon and eggs washed down with an old-fashioned chocolate milkshake. Then I plonk myself on a sun lounge and take another dip in the pool before I go.
ian
hits a water park, checks into the office and catches a band in Canggu
S UND AY
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GOOD K A RM A Karma Kandara (Jalan Villa Kandara, Ungasan) is another ultra-luxe property on Uluwatu's millionaire's row. A travelator leads down to the famous Karma Beach Club, but we're staying at the top by the infinity pool. This is my pick for the most rockstar-worthy Bali pool.
ROA D TRIP I'm on a mission to find the best pool action Bali has to offer, so Chloe and I go driving down to Uluwatu on the Bukit Peninsula, where there are designer pools set on clifftops with vast ocean views. But first we're going to need coffee, so we stop off at Starbucks for a roadie.
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POOL SIDE FUN Our first stop is Alila Uluwatu (Jalan Belimbing Sari, Pecatu; alilahotels.com), a luxury resort with a huge 60-metre pool poised on the edge of a cliff and a unique cantilevered cabana that hangs mid-air over the ocean. Cire, the poolfront restaurant, does a very good breakfast.
DESTINATION BALI
DIGITA L NOM A D Being a travel writer isn't all about beaches and restaurants. I need to answer emails, research what's new in Bali and sweet-talk editors. To that end I order a Bluebird to Dojo Bali (Jalan Batu Mejan, Canggu; dojobali.org), a co-working space in Canggu where digital nomads work in bikinis and board shorts.
BURGER S 'N' BE AT S
SUNSE T SURF Come sunset every hipster and his dog in Canggu heads down to Batu Bolong beach to watch the sunset and maybe sink a few beers. But I've got energy to burn so I hire a longboard from a shack on the beach and run into the ocean for a few sets of waves. It's dark by the time I emerge.
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The Deus cafe at the Deus Ex Machina custom motorbike showroom (Jalan Batu Mejan 8, Canggu; deuscustoms.com) cooks up serious beef burgers just how I like them with melted cheddar, caramelised onion, mustard and mayo. A band kicks off at 8pm. Within half an hour, the place is packed. How can you not love Bali?
19:00
kellee
drives down to the Bukit Peninsula to see Bali's best clifftop pools
L A S T-MINUTE SHOPPING Back in Seminyak, I go for a walk down Jalan Legian for some last-minute shopping. This is where you can still find an old-school Bali shopping experience and pick up a few gifts – anything from sarongs to silver jewellery.
GREEK GODDESS El Kabron Spanish Restaurant Cliff Club (Jalan Pantai Cemongkak, Pecatu; elkabron.com) is a little piece of Mykonos in Bali, with whitewashed wooden furniture set around a stunning turquoise pool perched 50 metres above sea level. If you come here, make sure to try the sangrias. They're the best I've ever tasted.
ROCKIN' OUT Rock Bar at the Ayana Resort (Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran; ayanaresort.com) has fascinated tourists for years and there's a good reason for that: the design is so daring. It literally hugs the cliffs on the south end of Jimbaran Bay.
FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors get in touch.
tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au
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Film director brothers Colin and Cameron Cairnes have been scaring audiences stiff this year with their horror hit Scare Campaign, declared by critics as one of our best-ever local frighteners. In this essay, they tell us about the history of Aussie horror films and detail the country’s spookiest addresses... PHOTO SCARE CAMPAIGN
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AUSTRALIA'S SCARIEST PLACES
A
ustralia has a landscape like no other – beautiful, yet eerie – and a history as haunted as any Victorian-era Gothic novel. This is great news if you make horror movies and your job is to scare the living daylights out of people. It's also great news if you're a traveller looking for a different, and perhaps slightly unsettling, kind of experience. Our mission here is to provide you with a treasure map to the locations used in a number of home-grown horror movies, both famous and infamous, and to point you in the direction of some of the most haunted places in Australia.
SCARY MOVIES Director siblings Colin and Cameron Cairnes (above) have a horror hit with the prank-gonewrong horror film Scare Campaign (left)
The reel thing Most of the big cities have their own horror movie legacies, including our hometown of Melbourne. The late 70s and early 80s was a boom time for Aussie genre cinema and Melbourne was the backdrop to a number of unforgettable horror movies. Australia's answer to Brian De Palma, Richard Franklin shot his much-revered Patrick in Melbourne in 1978. Often cited as one of Quentin Tarantino's faves (an honour that extends to quite a few films on this list) the film was shot largely around Melbourne's eastern suburbs with the Alfred Hospital in Prahran doubling as the private clinic where comatose patient, Patrick, unleashes his destructive telepathic powers. The hospital is still going, though these days it might be hard to recognise from the movie.
SCAREMEISTERS THE CAIRNES BROTHERS ARE PART OF A STRONG AUSSIE HORROR TRADITION
Franklin shot the opening scenes of his next movie, Road Games (1981), in a grim and grimy Port Melbourne – an atmosphere far removed from the cosmopolitan seaside vibe it now enjoys. The story follows trucker, Stacey Keach (who's really great despite his casting making no sense at all) and hitchhiker, Jamie Lee Curtis (see Stacey Keach) as they get caught up in a game of cat and mouse with a serial killer along the Nullarbor Highway. The film vividly captures that never-ending straight stretch of road while also taking in stunning vistas of the Great Australian Bight, before terminating in the back-blocks of Perth ê for its gripping climax.
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“Nothing screamed ‘dystopian near future’ like Melbourne's Williamstown in the late 70s” The 1979 thriller, Snapshot (retitled The Day After Halloween in the US to cash in on the then-current slasher craze), filmed some of its key scenes around the 19th century laneways of Melbourne’s CBD – the perfect setting for late-night murder and mayhem. Snapshot is a campy little gem that's hard not to like. Seventies glam rockers Sherbet belt out a couple of tunes, a killer stalks his victims in a Mr Whippy van, and a gorgeous young Sigrid Thornton makes her screen debut. Seems Sigrid has come full circle in her horror movie career – she now stars in our latest film, Scare Campaign, an affectionate homage to those great slashers of yore. While not a horror movie per se, the original Mad Max (1979) still packs its fair share of visceral thrills and set the benchmark for all Aussie genre films that followed. The film's shoot covered a lot of ground in and around Melbourne and made memorable use of some dramatic inner-west locations – nothing screamed “dystopian near future” quite like Williamstown in the late 70s. Many of the buildings are still there, like the imposing Spotswood Pumping Station, which stood in for the police headquarters. It's now part
of the Scienceworks museum. And then of course there are the dozens of roads, some less than an hour from the city, where George Miller conducted all the vehicular carnage. If you're keen to do the whole Mad Max experience there are some very well-researched blogs on the web that offer directions to all the major sites. Then all you'll need is some tight leathers and a V8 Interceptor, and you're away.
Sydney can claim to having its own post-apocalyptic shocker in Dead End Drive-In. Prolific genre-meister Brian Trenchard-Smith shot this OTT action/ horror in the eastern suburb of Matraville. The retro-looking Star Drive-In provided the film-makers with the perfect location for their riff on Escape From New York. Sadly, like a lot of drive-in theatres in the 80s, the Star was demolished as audiences began to embrace VHS and the home entertainment market. Thankfully icons like the Centre Tower, Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House are still with us and continue to dominate that distinctive Sydney skyline. Those architectural wonders all feature prominently in Philippe Mora's hysterical,
FROM HORROR TO OZPLOITATION While these bikers will regret making Max Rockatansky mad (left), film-makers like Quentin Tarantino have been inspired by schlocky Aussie exploitation films.
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AUSTRALIA'S SCARIEST PLACES
Going bush
ESSIE DAVIS SHOULD KNOW BETTER THAN TO LOOK UNDER THE BED IN THE BABADOOK
The Howling 3: The Marsupials (1987). This bonkers film about a clan of weremarsupials bears no relation to any of the other Howling films but does feature a typically eccentric performance from Barry Otto and a bizarre cameo from Dame Edna Everidge. But the real star is a shimmering 80s-era Sydney. It’s amazing to see how much has changed, and yet how much has stayed the same. Films like Howling 3 are more than just fun pieces of entertainment; they’re great little snapshots of a time gone by.
"A L L T H E L I T T L E D E V I L S A R E P R O U D O F H E L L ." W E L C O M E T O " T H E Y A B B A ", A N I G H T M A R I S H TAKE ON OUTBACK AUSTR ALIA
It's hardly surprising, given the cruel beauty of our bush, desert and sea, that a string of Aussie genre classics have been lensed in Queensland. The Gold Coast studios and that tourist mecca’s mountainous hinterland have managed to attract many a high profile US horror film, including The Ruins (2008) and Ghost Ship (2002). Special mention goes to the House of Wax remake (2005), not because it marked Paris Hilton's screen debut, but because it features a terrific performance from one Damon Herriman, later to become the leading man in our first horror film, 100 Bloody Acres. Damon’s turn as a slack-jawed yokel, and the lush rainforest around Tambourine Mountain, helped convince audiences they were in the backwoods of Louisiana. And while we're in the Sunshine State, let us venture north to Cairns, where pristine rainforest was transformed into hostile jungle for two classic Ozploitation movies; Brian Trenchard Smith's gruesome Turkey Shoot (1982), and the long-forgotten killer croc movie, Dark Age (1987), the latter starring a young John Jarratt. In the mid-90s, the ill-fated The Island of Dr. Moreau was filmed north of Cairns and the inhospitable locations chosen by the production were part of the reason the film went over budget, and sent some of the cast and crew over the edge. The bizarre on-set antics of Marlon Brando and Val Kilmer probably didn't help either.
The bush has always figured strongly in Aussie cinema and one of our most famous films literally turns the Australian landscape into a monster. Peter Weir's 1975 masterpiece Picnic at Hanging Rock creates an atmosphere of unease that could only have been captured by shooting at the actual location. Hanging Rock is well worth a visit and only about an hour's drive from Melbourne. There really is something powerful and mysterious about the place. So still, so quiet… that is, until some clown inevitably yells out “Miranda!” at the top of their voice. To find inspiration while writing our first film, 100 Bloody Acres, we would head off into the Victorian countryside with the aim of getting lost and seeing what locations we might stumble across. On one of these excursions we happened upon Yandoit, a small but suitably atmospheric district between Daylesford and Castlemaine. It felt like the perfect location for our story about two blood-and-bone fertiliser merchants who resort to murderous means to keep up with demand. For various reasons we ended up shooting the film in the Adelaide Hills, but we hung on to the name Yandoit as we'd grown quite attached to it. Watching the film now you'd think it was shot hundreds of kilometres from the big smoke, when it was actually only a 40-minute drive ê from the centre of Adelaide!
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AUSTRALIA'S SCARIEST PLACES
MAYDAY HILL S LUNATIC ASYLUM, WHERE SCARE CAMPAIGN WAS FILMED, IS SAID TO BE HAUNTED
“Members of our crew swear to seeing and hearing ‘anomalies’ while we were filming at the asylum” South Australia can also lay claim to having two of this country's most admired horror films of recent times shot there; The Babadook (2014), which made leafy suburban Adelaide feel like the most doom-laden place on earth; and, of course, Wolf Creek (2005), the quintessential outback maniac movie. The foreboding Flinders Ranges has been the backdrop to two blood-filled movies and a TV series now, but don't let that put you off going there – it truly is a breathtaking part of the world. And if you're really game you could visit the meteorite impact crater that gave the film its name, a mere 12-hour drive west of Broome. Speaking of remote and rugged, a film lover's tour of Oz isn't complete without a trip to Broken Hill in far western NSW, the setting for bona fide Aussie classics like Wake in Fright (1971), Razorback (1984), and our personal favourite, Mad
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Max 2 (1981). The town takes some getting to, sure, but it's well worth the trip if you want to lap up some genuine cinema heritage. You'll actually feel like you're on a movie set when you enter the main street – it's such a time capsule, and the surrounding desert will inspire you as much as it did our great film-makers.
The real thing So, where to go if you want a real terror experience? Where are the paranormal hot spots, or, should we say, cold spots? You can start by visiting what is considered one of the most haunted places in the world, and the backdrop to our latest film Scare Campaign. The long-abandoned Mayday Hills Lunatic Asylum is situated in the old gold mining town of Beechworth in north-east Victoria and is a horror director's dream – or perhaps nightmare – come true. The decaying facility, built in the 1860s, is full of long, dark corridors, musty basements and hidden stairways. The ghost tour operators there welcome visitors from all over the country, keen to experience a little paranormal activity, and from all reports, people are rarely disappointed. We can't personally confirm any sightings, but members of our crew swear to seeing and hearing all kinds of “anomalies” while we were filming there.
Similar experiences are offered in the big cities as well. The Old Melbourne Gaol runs night tours, as does Adelaide's notorious Z ward. Sightings of angry, long-deceased prisoners are apparently common at both attractions, so make sure you bring a camera – and possibly a fresh pair of underpants. In Sydney the North Head Quarantine Station claims to be one of the country's most haunted locations and for good reason. During its operation hundreds of people lost their lives to diseases like bubonic plague and smallpox, and while it's safe to visit today, you won't feel safe from the lost souls who refuse to leave the place. Up in Brisbane, the Toowong Cemetery and Boggo Road Gaol also offer tours for those interested in the darker side of our history, or hopeful of coming face to face with an apparition. Australia's rich horror heritage provides countless spine-tingling opportunities for the fearless traveller. The number of weird tales and creepy locations still being discovered suggests that the Aussie horror movie still has plenty of life in it yet.
Scare Campaign and 100 Bloody Acres are available on DVD and for download.
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YARRA VALLEY
Crushing it Nine non-wine reasons to visit the vibrant Yarra Valley WORDS PAUL CHAI PHOTO GO WILD BALLOONING BY JON HEWSON
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YARRA VALLEY
F
rench provincial gardens, secret small bars and the world's best small-batch gin – the Yarra Valley, just an hour north-east of Melbourne, is killing it when it comes to a wide variety of things to do. And that's before we even touch on the premium wines that the region is best known for. With so many good weekender options only a short drive from Melbourne, travellers have often overlooked the Yarra. But, while you were away, the region has been busy growing and changing to make sure it stays on top of Melburnians’ quick getaways list. “In addition to the abundance of world-class wineries and restaurants, sample craft distilleries and breweries, hang out at a hip and happening bar or get tactile with some of the largest timber giants at Wirrawilla Rainforest Walk,” says John Knoll, owner of Herd, a small bar that has brought some inner-city style to the small town of Healesville.
“Hang out at a hip and happening bar or get tactile with some of the largest timber giants in the rainforest”
Later this year the new home of Victorian winery Brown Brothers will open in Healesville – the first base for the winery outside of its beloved Milawa gourmet region. There's a new craft brewery in the works and the region is set to play host to a brand new food and wine festival based at the expansive Rochford Wines grounds, home to the A Day on the Green concert series in November (adayonthegreen.com.au). Check out our top-nine grape-free things to do in the Yarra overleaf... ê
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YARRA VALLEY
FLOAT ABOVE THE VALLEY WITH GO WILD BALLOONING AND THEN EAT AT CHATEAU YERING
GO HOT-AIR BALLOONING Start your visit to the Yarra Valley by watching the sun come up over this stunning part of regional Victoria. Go Wild Ballooning (621 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream; gowildballooning.com.au) will give you a bucket-list view of morning as it breaks over the valley, and then treat you to a hearty breakfast at the historic Chateau Yering. Go Wild also offers accommodation packages if you want to spend the night in the velvet-curtained surrounds of the Yarra's first winery the night before your flight.
GET LOST IN A FRENCH PROVINCIAL GARDEN Alowyn Gardens (1210 Melba Highway, Yarra Glen; alowyngardens.com.au) is the passion project of architect and landscape gardener John van de Linde and his wife Prue. John came to Australia from the Netherlands, a country that has a strong tradition of cultivated gardens, and he was determined to bring this idea to Australia. Twenty years ago, Prue found a neglected trotter stud and John went to work creating birch and casuarina forests, a Parterre Garden and the country's ê
TAKE A HELICOPTER TO LUNCH Also offering an aerial view of the valley is JamCo Helicopters (Lilydale Airport, 13 MacIntyre Lane, Yering; jamcoaviation.com.au). Take the eight-minute “Yering Dash” scenic flight around the valley or the 45-minute “Gold” flight that heads right into the Melbourne suburbs. There's nothing like being suspended in the centre of the region to appreciate how unique it is, walled in on all sides by mountains in a protected natural bowl (the valley was once an inland sea).
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Experience
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YARRA VALLEY largest Japanese wisteria arbour, which are huge hits with the Yarra wedding photo crowd. Plus there's a quirky, gourd-laden cafe to chill out in.
WALK IN A RAINFOREST On the cusp of the valley, where it meets the slopes of the Toolangi State Forest, is the Wirrawilla Rainforest Walk (visityarravalley.com.au/wirrawilla_walk), a short 2km stroll through the beech and sassafras trees. The majority of the walk is on a boardwalk and takes about half an hour to complete.
SIP ONE OF THE WORLD’S BEST GINS This year the team behind Four Pillars gin (2A Old Lilydale Road, Healesville; fourpillarsgin.com.au) has picked up Double Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition for the second time in a row. Head to Four Pillars new digs in Healesville to find out why. Here you can do a tasting of the group's various distillations including the Bloody Shiraz, which steeps the Yarra's cool-climate grapes in gin for a fruity summer option; or the Navy Strength, which is made using Aussie finger limes, coriander, turmeric and ginger. And keep an eye out for the soon-to-be-released Christmas gin. ê
A W A R D - W I N N I N G YA R R A G I N Four Pillars gin has been crowned the world's best for two years running. Below: the working still they simply call Wilma.
Oh, you do want some wine? Well, with 95 cellar doors within an hour's drive there are plenty of options. Here's the big and the small of it...
T H E B I G P L AY E R S DE BORTOLI With 600 acres under vine, a cheese maturation room and a 2013 cabernet scoring big in the James Halliday wine bible, this well-known winery is a great start to tasting the Yarra Valley. The De Bortoli story started in Griffith, NSW, but they opened their Yarra Valley operation in the 90s. 58 Pinnacle Lane, Dixons Creek; debortoli.com.au
L E VA N T I N E H I L L E S T A T E One of the newest, and biggest, players in the wine-and-food side of the valley, Levantine Hill has made waves by bringing celeb chef Teage Ezard to the area (Ezard @ Levantine Hill opened last year) and sporting a cellar door and restaurant designed by Fender Katsalidas (MoNA in Tasmania). 882-886 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream; levantinehill.com.au
YERING STATION Next door the Chateau Yering historic home, but a world away in terms of style, is the modern cellar door and restaurant of Yering Station. This winery can lay claim to being on the site of the first-ever Victorian vintage in 1845, since it was subdivided from the original estate. 38 Melba Highway, Yarra Glen; yering.com
ROCHFORD WINES With a modern cellar door, cafe, restaurant and sweeping ground, it's little wonder this classic Yarra Valley destination is home to the regular round of A Day on the Green concerts (this November sees a great 90s bill of Something for Kate, You Am I, Spiderbait and Jebediah) and the new Yarra Valley Wine & Food Festival (see breakout) 878-880 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream; rochfordwines.com.au
MELBA ESTATE Another historic home, this time the abode of well-known warbler Dame Nellie Melba, this cellar door
is part of the Coombe Yarra Valley, which also features their iconic restaurant housed in the old motor house and clock tower. 673-675 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream; coombeyarravalley.com.au
THE UNDERDOGS H A N R A H A N V I N E YA R D This smaller player is home to the “Reverse BYO” – you bring the food and picnic among the vines and Hanrahan will supply the top-notch tipples from their cellar door. 3 Hexham Road, Gruyere; hanrahan.com.au
SOUMAH Across the road is the underrated Italian wine specialist Soumah, which also offers a rustic Italian restaurant. Try the 2015 Savarro, an unusual variety of white wine first recorded in the 10th century. 16 Hexham Road, Gruyere; soumah.com.au
CORNIOL A WINES A family-operated winery with a focus on Italian varietals, these are low-yield, lovingly crafted wines that make for an alternative to the slicker big guys in the valley. 100 Wills Road, Dixons Creek; corniolawines.com.au
SUTHERL AND ESTATE In a physically imposing cellar door, on a perfectly elevated patch of Yarra Valley earth, this is the place to try tempranillo. 2010 Melba Highway, Dixons Creek; sutherlandestate.com.au
W I L D C AT T L E C R E E K This small operator has plenty to offer with a great range of whites, accommodation and a cellar door restaurant – all with great views. 473 Warburton Highway, Wandin North; wildcattlecreek.com.au
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DISCOVER YARRA VALLEY CIDER You can drink Napoleone’s (12 St Huberts Road, Coldstream; napoleone.com.au) crisp apple cider just metres from the trees that grow the fruit. Despite popular belief, the farmland in the Yarra is mostly used for cattle, not vines, and second on the land-use list is orchards and horticulture. Napoleone uses fruit that has been grown by three generations of the Napoleone family. Sample it as you dine at the adjoining Meletos cafe and accommodation (meletos.com).
“Herd is a small bar in Healesville that is city on the outside and regional where it counts”
FIND HEALESVILLE'S NEWEST SMALL BAR Off the main street in basement-style premises is Herd (177-179 Maroondah Highway, Healesville; herdbar.com.au) a small bar that's city on the outside – with a sleek fit-out of exposed concrete and barbed-wire lightshades – and regional where it counts, with local Napoleone lager on tap, a host of Yarra wines on the wine list and a pared-back bar menu of local produce like Herd's charcuterie plate with sour cabbage and toast. And don't get too jealous, but that striking wall mural of the local bush along the back wall is the view from owner John Knoll's back door. ê
YARRA VALLEY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL Making great use of the natural assets at Rochford Wines, the inaugural Yarra Valley Food & Wine festival will take place on April 8-9, 2017. This is the first time the big and small players will celebrate the region together, with a unique set-up: the festival will be divided into “varietal laneways” – service areas with dedicated lanes for the various grape varieties. Get lost in the Shiraz Lane, start the festival with some bubbles in the Sparkling Lane, or visit the lane reserved for local beers and ciders. This two-day festival will also be showcasing the area's food and produce with a 50-producer-strong local farmers market, cooking masterclasses and talks from local winemakers. Entertainment will be provided by live bands, Segway rides and a host of kids’ activities on Sunday, April 9, which is a “family day”. For more information visit yarravalleywineandfood festival.com.au.
S M A L L P L AT E S A N D B I G T A S T E S Herd small bar (above and below) has a slick fit out – and a huge back wall mural of the local countryside.
YARR A VALLEY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL WILL SHOW OFF THE REGION'S BEST CUISINE
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安媞珀
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Skin-Brightening
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亮白透肌黄金搭档
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Manuka Honey Eye Cream 麦卢卡蜂蜜亮白透肌眼霜
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YARRA VALLEY
STOP IN FOR A BREW AT HARGREAVES HILL BREWING IN YARR A GLEN
TRY A LOCAL BOUTIQUE BREW Keen to provide an alternative tipple for visitors, the Yarra has a couple of craft breweries. At Hargreaves Hill Brewing Co in Yarra Glen (25 Bell Street, Yarra Glen; hargreaveshill.com.au) you can sample beers like the staple Pale Ale, first released in 2004, or the dark-and-brooding R.I.S 2015, a Russian imperial stout with a chocolatey finish. Over at Coldstream Brewery (694 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream; coldstreambrewery.com.au) the attached tavern offers tastings of its Aussie Pale Ale, Czech Pilsner and a local pear and apple cider.
STAY IN A HISTORIC HOME The Chateau Yering Hotel (42 Melba Highway, Yering; chateauyering.com.au) is a five-star stay on the property where Victoria's first vintage was released in 1845. Now this historic home has 32 rooms all decked out in a lush, Victorian aesthetic that extends to the bar and Eleonore's restaurant, an awarded dining room perfect for a couple's retreat.
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MELBOURNE'S FIRST HARVEST The historic home of Chateau Yering (above) is on the site of the first vineyard planted near Melbourne in the 1800s.
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Tigerair network extends to Canberra Daily service to run between Melbourne and the nation's capital
T
igerair Australia recently announced it would launch a new daily return service between Melbourne and Canberra. The service, which will begin on December 8 this year, will regularly have great value fares at tigerair.com.au. Tigerair Australia head of communications Vanessa Regan says the airline is confident the new services will prove popular with the airline's core market of budget and leisure travellers, enabling more people to travel between the two destinations. “Tigerair's great-value fares provide a long-awaited low-cost air travel option between Melbourne and Canberra,” Regan says. “It is truly great news for consumers, tourism and the economy, with the services providing an additional 2,500 visitor seats per week through both airports, while injecting an estimated $17 million into the Canberra economy.”
To celebrate the launch of the new route Tigerair offered special $59 fares and the first 200 bookings received an automatic refund. It's not the first time Tigerair has flown to the home of Australian Parliament, but it's a revamped and re-branded airline that returns. As always, customers are encouraged to plan ahead and book early to secure the best-value deals with Tigerair Australia. As demand increases closer to the travel date, so does the cost of the fare in general.
Everyone loves to celebrate a 21st, and recently Tigerair Australia flew its 21 millionth passenger from Melbourne to Sydney. Theodora van Ravenstein from Ballarat was on TT218 on September 7 with her daughter when Tigerair staff greeted her with a $500 travel voucher. “We regularly choose to fly Tigerair as they provide a great-value and reliable option for us to get to Sydney to spend time with our family up there, and we will definitely be using these vouchers to see them more often,” van Ravenstein said. Tigerair Australia head of communications Vanessa Regan says the 21-millionth-passenger milestone is another significant one for the airline that continues to go from strength to strength in terms of punctuality and customer satisfaction. “Reaching 21 is cause for celebration for many and it’s no different for the team at Tigerair Australia,” she says. “Welcoming our 21 millionth passenger onboard since operations commenced in Australia in November 2007 is a major achievement for our airline.”
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TIGERAIR NEWS
Tigerair cements partnership with Melbourne Storm Low-cost airline to move to the front of the team's jersey It has been a big year for the Melbourne Storm and Tigerair Australia has been there with them as part of their successful partnership. Now that relationship will go a step further with the airline set to feature on the front of the team's jersey. The airline will also retain pride of place on the lower back of the jersey. Tigerair will retain both positions until the end of the 2020 NRL season. Tigerair Australia commercial director Adam Rowe says the airline is pleased to be enhancing its on-field presence and further cementing its association with the Storm. “We are proud to have gained an increased presence on the front of Melbourne
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Storm's iconic playing jersey, beginning in August and lasting through until the end of the 2020 NRL season,” Rowe says. “The entire team at Tigerair Australia looks forward to cheering on the boys in purple as they reach the business end of the season and ramp up their charge for premiership glory.” Melbourne Storm chief commercial officer Ben Dunn adds: “Tigerair is an integral member of the Melbourne Storm family and we are excited to head into the 2016 NRL finals series with a strengthened relationship. The increased presence on the playing strip will extend into 2017 and beyond.”
B O O K N O W , P AY L AT E R O N T I G E R A I R New option offers interest-free deferred payment Tigerair Australia has launched a new way to pay that allows customers to take advantage of an interest-free payment option. The new payment option is available to all existing, and new, Latitude Financial Services customers. Latitude customers spending over $250 with Tigerair are able to pay off their airfare, and any optional extras, interest-free over a six-month period, while Latitude customers spending over $500 are able to pay over 12 months interest-free. Latitude customers will be charged an additional $10 if they wish to use the interest-free payment option when booking with Tigerair. Tigerair Australia commercial director Adam Rowe says the airline’s new payment option will prove particularly cost effective for those booking more expensive forms of travel such as going overseas. “Tigerair is the first airline in Australia to offer an interest-free form of payment over six and 12 months and this is just another example of our ongoing commitment to providing our customers with more value and choice,” Rowe says. “This payment option opens up the possibility of travel to more people than ever before, allowing our customers to take a much-needed break today and pay it off on a plan.”
a la carte
coolangatta 07 5536 5455
BRoadbeach 07 5520 2166
sushi bar
tapas
ByRon bay 02 6685 7103
Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with Ă la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 35 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne, currently holding one hat from The Age Good Food Guide. Enjoy an authentic Japanese dining experience.
JAPANESE RESTAURANT
KENZAN.COM.AU | +61 (0)3 9654 8933
TIGERAIR NEWS
Cairns carnival gallops to success It has been another great year both on and off the field The 2016 edition of Cairns Amateurs Racing Carnival was a huge success with the event providing fun, sun and racing for all in attendance. A record crowd well exceeding the expected 10,000 mark topped off this year’s 58th Cairns Amateurs Carnival at Cannon Park. All the fascinators and finery of QT's Fashions on the Field once again provided a colourful and competitive highlight in its new location under the trees. Over 50 years after it began, the Carlton Mid Cairns Amateurs Carnival
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is one of regional Australia's most vibrant and fastest-growing social events that is a major contributor to the Far North. Tigerair Australia was thrilled to support the 2016 Cairns Amateurs Racing Carnival with the launch of the Cairns Trifecta Sale providing special fares for travel to and from Cairns over the summer holiday period. “Our great-value fares stimulate air travel in Australia, enabling more people to fly interstate to see family and friends more often, catch their sports team in action, take that well-
deserved break and attend fantastic events like the Cairns Amateurs Racing Carnival,” Tigerair Australia head of communications Vanessa Regan says. “It's a great event and huge tourism drawcard for the region. We witnessed strong demand for our flights to Cairns from Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne in the lead-up to the event. As always the way to secure the best-value fares is to plan ahead and book early. Tigerair has fares on sale generally a year in advance, so you can jump online and book early for the 2017 Cairns Racing Carnival!”
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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
Food
Food trucks Welcome to Thornbury
From mobile pizza ovens to high-end fine dining, the Tigerair network can satisfy your hunger. BY CONNOR MCLEOD
Why have one food truck when you can have several? This permanent food truck park in Melbourne's northern suburbs has a rotating roster of trucks from tacos to burgers and a huge bar that makes good use of the space provided inside what was formerly a service station. 520 High Street, Northcote; welcometothornbury.com
Tsuru Whether just rolling round the streets of Sydney or pulling up at night markets and warehouse weekend sales, you have to track down this purveyor of baos and dumplings. The pork belly steamed buns are a standout, so head to the Facebook page and see where the guys fro Tsuru are headed next. facebook.com/TsuruFoodTruck
pizza oven on the back of a slick VW Kombi. Pizzas are in the traditional Napoli style made by a qualified pizzaiola, and they also sell antipasto and desserts. pizzantica.com
Delish Ice Perth is home to another twist on the food truck idea. Delish Ice turns out ice pops – banana coconut choc chip; passionfruit, mint and lime; raspberry lemonade – from the window of a vintage caravan. Look for them anywhere the temperature is heading north. delishice.com.au
Pizzantico Brisbane has one of the most stylish food trucks around with Pizzantico, a mobile custom-built wood-fired
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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
F O O D
Posh
Vue de Monde
Tetsuya's
Shannon Bennett's sky-high diner also comes with some equally high-quality cooking. Known for pushing the boundaries when it comes to his often-experimental tasting menu, this is one of Australia's finest diners. Level 55, Rialto Building 525 Collins Street, Melbourne; vuedemonde.com.au
You don't stay number one in the high-end dining game for no reason. While Tetsuya's Singapore operation Waku Ghin has got most of the press recently, his team at the original Sydney operation has just been getting on with producing some of the finest food ever to be plated up in the Harbour City. tetsuyas.com
Flower Drum Named after a traditional – and very beautiful – dance, this CBD stalwart has been attracting business lunches and visiting foodies for years with its traditional Chinese menu handled by chef Gilbert Lau. Around since the mid-70s, this is a premier experience. flowerdrum.melbourne
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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
Burgers
Huxtaburger The simple motto of Daniel Wilson’s burgeoning burger empire speaks volumes: hot beef, cold beer. Huxtaburger is renowned for having some of Australia's best burgers – you won't go wrong with the Theo or spice it up with the Denise. Various locations around Melbourne; huxtaburger.com.au
Easeys Located in Collingwood, and best known as the place that has lifted train carriages up onto its roof for people to dine in, there's plenty to like here, from the Easey Cheesy to the Melbourne Madness. 48 Easey Street, Collingwood; easeys.com.au
Mary’s Mary's in Newtown – and their hole-in-the-wall burger joint Mary's CBD – dishes up some of Sydney's best burgers. Mary's chicken burger is a real winner. Make your way to Mary's Newtown and smash a double Mary’s with trashcan bacon and wash it down with some delicious Young Henrys cider. 6 Mary Street, Newtown and 154 Castlereagh Street, Sydney
Burger Theory What started as a food truck travelling the street of Perth now has permanent digs in the east of Adelaide. This is a gloriously sloppy affair with a more-secretthan-KFC burger sauce, so join the queue and find out what all the fuss is about. 8-10 Union Street, Adelaide; burgertheory.com
Spice Curry Vault
Long Chim
Spice Temple
Queen's Tandoor
Go for the awesome-sounding name, stay for the curry. This Melbourne bolthole in a laneway off Little Collins Street offers traditional Indian cuisine with a few modern twists. Sample something from the tandoor oven or one of the many vegetarian options like baingan masala, spicy eggplant with capsicum. 18-20 Bank Place, Melbourne; curryvault.com.au
Perth has managed to attract David Thompson, the Aussie chef that took coals to Newcastle, so to speak, by opening a Thai restaurant in Bangkok – and then saw it become the number one restaurant in Asia. Now Perth residents can sample his fiery flavours at Long Chim, and the rest of us are very jealous. Barrack Street and St Georges Terrace, Perth; longchimperth.com
Neil Perry's love of regional Chinese cuisine is on show here with hot, sweet, sour and numbing pork and the amazingly spicy, yet nuanced, fish drowned in heavenfacing chillies and Sichuan peppercorns. Re-opening October 10 after an extensive renovation. 10 Bligh Street, Sydney; rockpool.com
One of Bali's hottest Indian restaurants, in both spice and popularity. As the name suggests you can't go wrong with something from the tandoor oven, but they also do a killer seafood curry or spicy lamb. And the location means you can head out to one of Seminyak's cocktails bars for dessert. Jl. Raya Seminyak, No 1/73, Bali; queenstandoor.com
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the tale end
Travel is all about stories Please send your travel photos to us at tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au
ORGAN PIPES NATIONAL PARK, VICTORIA
MT MACEDON, VICTORIA Having lived in Melbourne for years, I only recently made the short drive out of town to Mount Macedon. Here we found a huge cross on top of the mountain to honour the soldiers who fought in the First World War. And there is a great cafe and pie shop nearby with a killer view.
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DAVID CHATFIELD
2 MT BULLER, VICTORIA This was my kids’ first trip to the snow and they took to it like, well, kids to a snowy playground. We took them to the top of Bourke Street and skied – or fell, or rolled – to the bottom of the run. It was great. PAUL CHAI
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This park, close to the city of Melbourne, lives up to its name with this huge natural rock formation that looks like a giant church organ. It starts off with amazing views and turns into a walk along the creek where you can try to spot platypus and then you get the big reveal of the “organ pipes”. The only bummer is the walk back up the steep hill!
Get your ticket to the hottest attraction in Perth Witness the magic of a gold pour Guided tours daily from 9.30am till 3.30pm Mention this ad and receive a FREE gift on entry.
perthmint.com.au/pour
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An awesome underwater journey awaits you at AQWA
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Cafe Gift Shop Dive with Sharks Open Daily 10am - 5pm Hillarys Boat Harbour 9447 7500 www.aqwa.com.au /discoverAQWA