Tigertales Dec 2016 - Jan 2017 by Citrus Media

tigertales

TAKE ME AWAY

Australia | December 2016 – January 2017

GET YOUR FESTIVAL ON ➔ Laneway Festival, featuring Tash Sultana, is part of a huge summer of live music

C A P I TA L O F F U N

W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S

COASTING ALONG

The people who have made Canberra cool

Two very different travellers take on Adelaide

Exploring the backroads of the Pacific Coast drive

Escape the everyday... Let our friends at Tigerair look after you in the air and we’ll look after you on the ground. Tigerair guests can book now for a 4 or more day rental and receive 15% off the base rate at participating locations. *Terms and conditions apply.

EAU0056

To book, visit a Europcar counter or call 1300 13 13 90 and quote TIGER. For online bookings visit www.europcar.com.au/tiger * Vehicles subject to availability. Valid at participating locations across Australia and New Zealand. Valid for booking dates from 01/12/2016 – 31/01/2017. Rental dates 04/01/2017 – 31/03/2017. Blackout dates where offer is unavailable are 17 December 2016 to 3 January 2017 and 14 January to 22 January 2017, South Australia only. Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion. Minimum length of rental must be 4 days to receive this offer. Days are based on a 24 hour rental period. Discount of 15% applies to base rate (time and kilometres) of rental only. Visit www.europcar.com.au/tiger for full Terms and Conditions.

‘‘Our family adventures start here.’’ The Bennett

THE PERFECT TRAVELLING COMPANION

Good from the ground up SEA SALT IS AVAIL ABLE ON ALL TIGER FLIGHTS

WELCOME ON BOARD

Tigerair’s birthday and new routes Welcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly Tigerair.

n November, Tigerair celebrated its ninth birthday in Australia since domestic operations first commenced in Australia on November 23, 2007. Since that time, we’ve flown close to 22 million passengers, or nearly the population of Australia! Tigerair continues to soar to new heights with more destinations to choose from and new products and innovations. Our objective is to put the needs of our customers first by consistently delivering the very best in terms of affordable and reliable air travel with friendly service, and I’m proud to say we continue to be Australia’s most on-time low-cost airline, coupled with having the lowest cancellation rate of all the major domestic airlines, since January 2015. The past year has been a significant one for the Tigerair team. We launched seven new routes, including our first short-haul international services to Bali. We recently announced a major boost for Queensland tourism with a third A320 aircraft to be based in Brisbane, creating over 50 new jobs at our Queensland base and facilitating the launch of two new routes, plus additional flights on a number of existing popular Queensland routes. Our new route between Brisbane and Perth delivers the only low-cost services between the two destinations when flights commence from June 1, 2017. New services between Brisbane and the Whitsunday Coast are also on sale now for flights commencing from March 23, 2017.

“Summer is finally here and there has never been a better time to plan that well-deserved affordable break away” Our new summer menu is on board. The new menu features year-round popular favourites like the jumbo all-day Turkish with numerous new additions like the Vilis handmade feature pie and the cheese-and-sun-blushed tomato toastie. If you pre-order before you fly, you have the added advantage of being served first. On our international services, blankets, pillows and fun merchandise are available. Summer is finally here and there has never been a better time to plan that well-deserved affordable break away. If you want the best value deals from Tigerair, remember to plan ahead and book early, as fares will increase generally as demand increases closer to the travel date. Sign up for our free e-newsletter or become a fan on social media (Twitter: @TigerairAU; Facebook: facebook.com/tigerairaustralia;

Insta: @tigerairaustralia) to hear first about news and special deals from Tigerair Australia. We’re an airline that continues to evolve based on customer feedback and demand, so quite simply, the more people that choose to fly Tigerair, the more opportunity for expansion of services down the track. We do have many exciting developments coming soon that will be announced in the coming year. We truly value all of our customers’ ongoing support and wish you and your family a safe and happy holiday season.

Rob Sharp, Tigerair Australia CEO

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CONTENTS

Destination directory Inside this issueâ&#x20AC;Ś wherever you're going, we've got you covered

17 See sunset at Bali's newest beach club

Explore the colours of the Whitsundays

33 F E AT U R E

pacific drive Take the back roads between Sydney and Brisbane F E AT U R E

the fest of times

Your summer festival preview

F E AT U R E

capital games

74 F E AT U R E

How Canberra got its groove on

weekend warriors Two different ways to see Adelaide

Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Art Director Yamin Spendlove Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott Cover photo Tash Sultana, by Samara Clifford

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Advertising Commercial Manager Joe Bird (02) 9186 9104 jbird@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestar Web

Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Publisher Steve Maidens (02) 8188 3670 steve@citrusmedia.com.au Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au

ÂŠ 2016 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder. Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

BORICH BONNIE TYLER KEVIN RAY BEADLE IAN MOSS

SLIM JIM PHANTOM TRIO

CASH SAVAGE AND THE LAST DRINKS THE SHANE PACEY TRIO – CHEAP FAKES LACHY DOLEY AND THE HORNS OF CONVICTION

PHIL MANNING – HUSSY HICKS – CLAUDE HAY – THE TURNER BROWN BAND

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FREE EVENT July 28-30, 2017

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iFLY Indoor Skydiving has 3 facilities across Australia, including in the adventure capital of Sydney, Penrith, NSW, in the heart of the Gold Coast in Surfers Paradise, QLD and now in Perth, WA! Anticipated and adored by nephew and nana alike, this is the hottest attraction and a great action sport the whole family will keep wanting to come back to. Book a spot now and do something you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t experienced before! iFLY runs a Junior iFLYER club during the school holidays as well as during the school term, suitable for kids aged 6 to 16 to join. Call 1300 366 364 or visit ifly.com.au to book now and suit up for the flight of a lifetime!

Kids Parties - Educational School Excursions - Corporate Group Packages & more!

ARE YOU READY

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T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O

F OOD

S UMME R

TA S T E O F TA S M A N I A The state’s best producers of cheeses, berries, game meat and cool-climate wines gather under one roof for the Taste of Tasmania. There will be entertainment, and families are welcome. This is the must-do event of the Tassie summer. Hobart, December 28 to January 3; thetasteoftasmania.com.au

TWILIGHT HAW K E R S M AR K E T Every Friday in Perth there is music, fun and fantastic street food at the Twilight Hawkers Market. Held in Forrest Place until 9:30pm each Friday night, there are delights like tequenos, salty cheese wrapped in pastry, and sticky pork ribs. Perth, Forrest Place, Fridays; twilighthawkers market.com

S O U T H M E LB O U R N E N I G H T M AR K E T South Melbourne Market turns 150 in January and the Night Market will kick-off on January 5. The market is Melbourne’s oldest permanent market – it first opened back in May 1867. Melbourne, Corner of Cecil and Coventry Streets, South Melbourne; southmelbourne market.com.au

F E S T I VA L S WONDERF UL IND ONE SI A BE ACH F E ST This Indonesian beach party aims to bring the food, culture and music of our neighbour to the sands of St Kilda. There are performers from Australia and Indonesia and a range of food stalls and trucks. Melbourne, January 21-22; wonderfulindonesiafestival.com.au

R OOF T OP S G O O D H E AV E N S Just it time for summer, Fancy Hanks barbecue joint has moved to Melbourne’s busy Bourke Street – and opened a rooftop bar. Good Heavens follows Fancy Hank’s Americana theme but gives it a neon 80s twist with retro party drinks like pina coladas. Melbourne, 79 Bourke Street; fancyhanks.com

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ALF R E D & C O N S TA N C E The new drink of the summer is “frose”, or frozen rose. Brisbane’s Alfred & Constance offers frose on tap. Not sure about cocktails on tap? Check out The Feast on page 29. Brisbane, corner of Alfred and Constance Streets, Fortitude Valley; alfredandconstance. com.au

CORNER HOTEL The Corner Hotel has given its rooftop bar an overhaul. For two decades live music fans have frequented the outdoor space to grab a bite before the gig; now, head chef Shannon Rice has put together a new menu designed for sharing. Melbourne, 57 Swan Street, Richmond; cornerhotel.com

S Y D N E Y F E S T I VAL The Harbour City explodes into summer with a huge program of music, art and performance. Catch indie-rocker-turned-darkpoet PJ Harvey touring her latest album The Hope Six Demolition Project, or family circus act Kaleidoscope. Sydney, January 7-29; sydneyfestival.org.au

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Have a sundowner at Bali's newest beach club

WORDS PAUL CHAI

he towering arches of sculpted and twisted bamboo at Finns Beach Club look particularly good at sunset – or that might be the margaritas talking. Finns is the latest, and hottest, spot on Bali to watch the sun go down – because that's an important event on holidays. The club sits right on the sand at Pantai Berawa, one of Bali’s best white-sand surfing beaches, and it’s the first up-scale beach club in the fast-developing Canggu area of Bali, situated north-west of Kuta. The use of bamboo is striking,

creating an organic, renewable two-storey clubhouse using Balinese design and a traditional thatched alang alang roof. Despite its imposing size, the use of natural building products makes the building feel like it belongs here on the beach. Finns is the latest venture from the Semara Collection, which also runs the Semara Uluwatu Resort, and the nearby, family-focused Canggu Club, which has a host of kid-friendly activities from trampolines to a huge sports field (a rarity in this part of Bali where land is becoming very precious).

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S U N S E T C E L E B R AT I O N S I N B A L I A bartender mixes up some cocktails at Finns Beach Club; (below) surfers hit the waves in front of the club; (bottom) the upstairs function space.

At Finns, there are three general waves of visitors: families in the mornings, the sundowner crowd, and the late-night partygoers that turn up in dresses and shirts rather than boardies and swimsuits. A typical sunset will see you take up your perch in a booth, lounge or floating in the infinity pool with a swim-up bar. Then it’s on to the cocktails. The Chenola is one of Finns’ signature creations with light rum, peach liquer, passionfruit and some lemon to stop things getting too sweet; or toast the rotation of the sun with a Hollywood Bubbles: Dom Benedictine, fresh raspberry, pomegranate juice and sparking wine. Food, like sunset, is better off shared, with dishes like barramundi tacos, chicken wings with burnt chilli dipping sauce, and a range of wood-fired pizzas. The music at Finns has only one rule: there have to be lyrics, so as to differentiate it from some of the more beat-heavy clubs along the coast. A host of DJs interpret that in their own way, keeping the mood upbeat.

“You have to love an island that has a proud tradition of beach clubs” 18

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The Bali beach-club crawl Three more places to enjoy killer drinks and a Bali sunset

KU DE TA

NATUR AL HIGH The tall bamboo roof at Finns references the local style; (below) a sunset crowd settles in for the day's end.

You have to love an island that has a proud tradition of beach clubs; somewhere to simply sit back and relax with friends, and with a cocktail in hand. In or out of the pool, that’s the biggest decision you’ll have to make when you settle in for some people watching on the beach. There are picnickers on towels with a Bintang beer in hand, mad-keen surfers catching the last of the day’s waves, and even a drone pilot trying to catch the last rays of sun in a very millennial way.

But all eyes are on the sun as it slips below the Bali horizon. It’s a simple act that happens every day – something we take for granted in our busy lives. In Bali, though, each sunset is an event to be celebrated at the temples to the sun that are the island’s beach clubs. And Finns is a fine addition to this tradition. Jalan Raya Pantai Berawa, Tibubeneng, Kuta Utara, Kabupaten Badung; finnsbeachclub.com

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Denpasar, Bali from Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth; tigerair.com.au

One of the best-known party spots on the sand, this Bali beach classic offers a special “sunset box” – a glass-enclosed decking where you can see the waves crash against (and sometimes over) your viewing spot. When the sun goes down, this is a candlelit party spot made all the better by the famous Ku De Ta soundtrack of beats, which have spawned a series of CD releases. Try Another Wife, a sultry mix of tequila, lemon, passionfruit, pink grapefruit, soda and sugar. And it’s an amazing spot for a lazy lunch – that just might last until night time. Perth, you’re lucky enough to be getting one in the near future. Jalan Kayu Aya No. 9, Seminyak; kudeta.com

P O T AT O H E A D B E A C H C L U B Sunsets for the design set in a huge building made out of discarded window shutters foraged from old Indonesian houses. Potato Head is a local group with a great eye for quirky decoration that now spills over into the attached Katamama boutique hotel, and the beach club is effectively your hotel bar. Try the Barong Zombie: light and dark rum, pineapple-infused arak (Bali’s local spirit), absinthe, pink pomelo, cane and pineapple juices, passionfruit syrup, and the kitchen sink – sorry, a dash of bitters. This is all served in a wooden carved tiki highball that is guaranteed to make you smile. Jalan Petitenget No. 51 B, Seminyak; ptthead.com

COCOON BEACH CLUB This club opts for a Mediterranean white-and-blue colour scheme with a Balinese accent in the local embroidered umbrellas and a very blue kidney-shaped pool as the centrepiece. Food is a mash-up of Asian and European flavours. Keep an eye of the Facebook page for a host of special events, including sporting days, flashback retro parties and international DJs. Jalan Arjuna No. 66, Blue Ocean Boulevard, Seminyak; cocoon-beach.com

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T HE P L AY L I S T Pack these on your next trip away TECH

LAPTOP “My Dell laptop, to keep me connected and so that I can find gluten-free cafes and restaurants.”

AHEAD OF THE PACK John O’Brien Brewer, O’Brien Beer

1 TINASHE

NIGHTRIDE

interview paul chai albums matt shea

A decade ago, John O’Brien started his craft beer business that caters specifically to coeliacs, with 100 per cent, gluten-free boutique brews. Based in Ballarat, the beers are brewed using sorghum and millet instead of barley and wheat to achieve a tasty, glutenfree range that includes Belgian ales, Indian pale ales and even a chocolate orange porter. John travels a lot to promote his business and is often found in the window seat. “I love the countryside, so I’ll take a window seat if available every time,” he says. And he is a fan of taking off, whether it’s for work or play. “I enjoy the diversity of the Australian landscape and I’m always interested in visiting any areas I haven’t seen before,” John says. This year O’Brien Beer celebrates its 10th birthday, so raise a glass to John’s seasonal coeliac offerings. O’Brien Beer is part of Rebellion Brewing, rebellionbrewing.com.au

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Nightride is a surprise 15-track gift for fans. And it could feel rushed if the LAbased singer-songwriter wasn’t such a skilled artist. Nightride is full of intricate songwriting, lush arrangements and the occasional ground-splitting single to get you dancing around your hotel room. Ideal for... summer romance.

GE AR

SPECS “Spec Savers reading glasses so that can I read my book and see my laptop.”

RE AD

STORIES “Any book by Peter FitzSimons to while away the hours.” GE AR

2 L AMBCHOP

SUN PROTECTION

FLOTUS

Banana Boat or Cancer Council Australia because of my fair complexion, and a good hat.”

Another album from Lambchop and another shift in direction for the Nashville collective. It’s also another near classic with a new found affection for electronics and vocoder-ed vocals hardly denting their talent for soft-power songwriting and slow-poison hooks. Ideal for... christening the beach house.

B YO

BEER “O’Brien Beer (of course), because I love beer.”

3 K ADHJA BONET THE VISITOR

Kadhja Bonet might just be Minnie Riperton reincarnated, such is the precious hummingbird trill of her singing voice. The majestic, string-laden lead single "Honeycomb", could be the greatest Bond theme you’ve never heard? Ideal for... warming up before a night at Moonlight Cinema in Sydney.

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Why I live in

gl e be Singer-songwriter Julia Jacklin grew up in the Blue Mountains but later moved to Glebe in Sydney’s inner city. This year, her stunningly beautiful debut album Don’t Let the Kids Win has caught fire, and she will be touring for most of the summer. What makes Glebe a great place to live? I live right near Blackwattle Bay, so it’s a really nice place to sit and look over at the city. You can’t swim in it, but it’s a nice view. You can walk to Chinatown and the city in 20 minutes, too. Where are the best places to get a good meal or drink? I really like the local Thai place, Tom Yum Tum Gang (249 Glebe Point Road) or La Banette Patisserie (18 Glebe Point Road), which has the best croissants outside of France, I think. Or we have the best supermarket in the country. It’s an IGA, but it has it’s own thing going on. Where do you go after a gig? Probably to the Different Drummer (185 Glebe Point Road, Glebe; differentdrummer.com.au). I go there occasionally as the last port of call. When I worked at a Mexican restaurant down the road, we’d all go to the Drummer after a shift and just drink margaritas and complain.

SEE JULIA JACKLIN Where do you go for inspiration? I like the local Glebe library (186 Glebe Point Road, Glebe). When I finally quit my day job to pursue music, I had a few weeks before the tour started – and quite a lot of time off during the day. I’d go to the library most days and write and read. They have big windows looking out onto the street, great for people watching. Tell us something only a local would know. There’s a great place called the Friend in Hand (58 Cowper Street, Glebe; friendinhand.com) – a good country pub right in the city. They have great Australiana paraphernalia all over the walls and life-drawing classes upstairs.

MORE MUSIC Check out the greatest moments at our music festivals in our "The Fest of Times" feature.

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Julia is touring the country as part of Laneway Festival (lanewayfestival. com). Laneway is on in Brisbane, Thursday, January 26; Melbourne, Saturday, January 28; Adelaide, Friday, February 3; Sydney, Saturday, February 4; and Fremantle, Sunday, February 5. Julia is also touring the album Don’t Let the Kids Win; for dates please check juliajacklin.com

HOLIDAY MUST-DO Wildlife galore, shows to amaze, closer experiences, segways for safaris, high-ropes to dare, & fun to be had!

Established in 1947, Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary was one of the Gold Coast’s ﬁrst wildlife tourism parks. As a not-for-proﬁt, funds are re-invested back into the Sanctuary and one of Australia’s largest wildlife hospitals.

28 Tomewin Street, Currumbin, 4223.

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Go shopping with artist Julia Deville

WORDS PAUL CHAI

ulia Deville is a taxidermist, jeweller and artist based in Melbourne. Her work uses the art of taxidermy to create striking works that combine her skills. Originally from New Zealand, Julia is also a vegan and animal rights activist and her taxidermied creatures are a subtle protest of trophy hunting as she combines her posed animals with precious gems and metals. “I’m a jeweller and a taxidermist by trade so I combine the two crafts together,” Deville says. “I make brooches out of mice and small birds and set diamonds in their eyes. I also create larger taxidermy sculptures, decorated with jewellery materials and techniques.” Julia has been commissioned by Hobart’s Museum of Modern Art (MONA), has won the City of Hobart

Art Prize, and her work has been included in Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art. “I wanted to learn taxidermy from the day I realised it was something you could do,” Julia says. “I was 16 and no one would take me seriously enough to teach me. It wasn’t till I moved to Melbourne two or three years later that I found my mentor and teacher.” Her next taxidermy exhibition will be in February 2018 at Linden Art Gallery in St Kilda, and she’ll be showing some one-off jewellery items at Jan Murphy Gallery (janmurphygallery.com.au) in Brisbane in 2017. Julia has a unique style, one that draws on Renaissance and Victorian art, so we asked her to take us shopping. Overleaf are Julia’s top picks for the hard-to-buy-for person in your life... ê

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For her Taxidermy jewellery “I have to say a piece of jewellery from my by-appointment showroom in Collingwood, Melbourne, or my new online shop: juliadeville.com.”

Fashionable lingerie “Try the Smitten Kitten lingerie boutique.” (online only at smittenkitten.com.au)

For him Boutique wine collection “Anything from Blackhearts & Sparrows Wine Purveyors (several Melbourne locations; blackheartsandsparrows.com.au). They have a wonderful selection for any budget.”

Some permanent ink

For the kids A magical tattoo

“A tattoo from LDF Tattoo in Sydney (26 King Street, Newtown; ldftattoo. com). This is my friend and collaborator, Leslie Rice’s (pictured right) tattoo shop. He’s one of the most talented artists I know. In fact, one of his incredible paintings on black velvet would be a great gift, too.”

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“Magic Tatts are these augmented reality tattoos that come to life through an app on your phone. They’re really cool – I always have some on hand to give to my friends’ kids.” Available at Target stories, target.com.au

For the young at heart Yoga school

For the hard-to-buy-for Some float time

“Get them a membership to Simhanada Ashtanga Yoga School in Collingwood (62 Easey Street, Collingwood; simhanadayoga.com). It’s just around the corner from my new showroom. It’s the most incredible yoga school; beautiful architectural modern design and the best teachers I’ve ever encountered.”

“A voucher for a flotation tank. Quite an amazing (and relaxing) experience. I like Beyond Rest in Prahran (26 Regent Street, Prahran; beyondrest.com.au) because they use hydrogen peroxide instead of chlorine.

With over 110 stores we are the CBD’s largest outlet shopping centre.

Spencer Outlet Centre VIP TOURIST REWARDS Exclusive access to our VIP shopping specials and discounts. Pick up your copy today from Centre Management Office (near Trade Secret). These great offers are valid to all customers that live more than 50km from Spencer Outlet Centre. Please present your Passport or Driver’s Licence for verification. Terms and Conditions apply.

spenceroutletcentre.com.au |  |  201 Spencer Street Docklands VIC 3008 T: (03) 8689 7577 Next to Southern Cross Station & above the Skybus Terminal.

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ARE WE READY FOR WINE AND COCKTAILS ON TAP? The traditional delivery methods of our drinks are getting a shake-up

WORDS PAUL KRISTOFF ILLUSTRATION KEV GAHAN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM

hen we order an alcoholic drink, there are certain things that we take as a given. Any wine worth drinking comes from a bottle, cocktails are always made to order, and beer, if it’s any good, can only come from a tap or bottle. But recent times have seen us move on from these traditional ways of thinking. Great craft beer can now come in an aluminium can, as can some wine, which is an increasingly popular trend in the US. Even quality cocktails can be purchased from bottle shops pre-made in drink-size portions. Perhaps the most surprising trend sweeping bars and eateries in Australia, though, is the increasing prominence of wine and cocktails readily available on tap.

Of course, any kind of non-beer booze on tap seems to have a certain “cool” factor to it, but there’s a far bigger reason as to why venues are experimenting with a wider variety of drinks in their pipes. Put simply, on tap means lower costs and greater speed for everyone: complex cocktails can be pre-mixed; more drinks can be served; the venue saves time and money; and the customer gets their drink faster. When it comes to wine, the winery doesn’t have to bother with bottling and labelling, and the venue minimises loss due to spoiled wine from bottles when sold by the glass, resulting in a much more sustainable, environmentally friendly, cost effective alternative to bottling. When a keg is tapped, it’s pressurised with an inert gas that prevents any oxygen from coming into contact with the wine, and that means

the wine stays good for longer. We’ve even heard stories of wines up to 12 months later tasting as good as when they were first tapped, making wine on tap a viable solution for restaurants to serve more expensive wines by the glass. Imagine what cork aficionados who still refuse to accept screw cap bottles must be thinking. ê

COCK TAIL S ON TA P The trend of cocktails on tap can be traced back to the home of the cocktail in New York. For years some of the hottest joints in NYC have been serving their cocktails on tap to speed up the delivery of their signature drinks. They are often quite complex too, like the mix of whisky, yuzu juice, amaro liqueur, and smoked maple syrup from New York’s Alder Restaurant.

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THE TREND OF WINE AND COCKTAILS ON TAP IS SOMETHING THAT’S HERE TO STAY, AND AS LONG AS THE END PRODUCT WE AS CONSUMERS GET TO ENJOY ISN’T COMPROMISED, THERE IS LITTLE DOWNSIDE.

For cocktails, the easiest to put on tap are those with a high alcohol component, such as a Negroni, because they don’t spoil. Put something fresher on tap, like an espresso martini, and there’s a higher risk that the end result won’t be as good as a fresh one. Have you ever tried espresso that’s a few hours old? For a bartender, cocktails on tap also pose other challenges. How does the taste change after a few hours of being made? What will carbonation from the taps do to the acidity? How often do kegs with solid ingredients like fruit need to be shaken? Will the ingredients clog up the taps? However, with these challenges, there are also opportunities. For one, the cocktails are more consistent over the course of the night, and there’s greater

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scope to let customers try before they buy, as they might with a craft beer. “I’ve worked with a lot of bartenders over the past year who have been barrel ageing cocktails in whiskey and wine barrels,” says Dean Schmideg, co-founder of online Melbourne bar guide BAR/D UP. “It’s all about them indulging their creativity and giving patrons a unique experience with signature beverages that are specific to their bar.” The trend of wine and cocktails on tap is something that’s here to stay, and as long as the end product we as consumers get to enjoy isn’t compromised, there is little downside. There will always be wine available in bottles, and you’ll always be able to get a bespoke cocktail made-to-order by a bartender. Choice is something that’s not going away. While you’re contemplating – perhaps wondering whether the goon bag is due for a renaissance (the short answer is no) – here are five great spots to enjoy something other than beer on tap. Arbory (Melbourne, VIC) Arbory is popular for many reasons, one of those being the fantastic location on the banks of the Yarra River, another being the wine and cocktails on tap. While the nitro espresso martinis are always popular, we prefer the vibrant Aperol Spritz – perfect as the sun goes down on a balmy summer night. The Baxter Inn (Sydney, NSW) This hidden bar is considered one of Sydney’s best and for good reason – the drinks, the service and the atmosphere are consistently excellent. Along with one of the best whiskey ranges in Australia, the Baxter Inn also serves up some fantastic cocktails, including a spot-on Old Fashioned that can be found on tap.

Brooklyn Standard (Brisbane, QLD) Located in the former basement of the Tank Hotel, Brooklyn Standard is a venue with a focus on live music – six nights a week you’ll find someone playing something from a wide variety of genres. The owners wanted everything to all be of a high standard, and that especially includes the cocktails on tap. Varnish on King (Perth, WA) Varnish welcomes patrons with a claim to “source the best food, the best wine and the best whiskey to share with our friends”. It’s simple and straight to the point, and in this basement speakeasystyle bar, this claim is delivered on. Look out for the barrel-aged whiskey cocktails found on tap. 2KW (Adelaide, SA) This indoor/outdoor rooftop bar would attract customers for the view alone, but thankfully that hasn’t led to complacency. Along with top-notch casual eats, 2KW also has a few local wines on tap. Just be aware there is a dress code here, so put in a bit of effort to avoid being knocked back at the door.

THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture for online magazine The City Lane, and he is one third of the craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective. Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.

CW6317

Come on under!

There’s no better way to get up close and personal with the star attractions of the Great Barrier Reef than with Cruise Whitsundays ultimate outer reef playground - Reefworld. Spend the day in the water snorkelling and diving amongst the thousands of fish, or stay dry and see it all through our underwater viewing chamber or semi-submersible ride. Includes an all you can eat buffet lunch and endless fun!

See your travel agent or contact us info@cruisewhitsundays.com DEPARTS DAILY FROM AIRLIE BEACH, DAYDREAM ISLAND & HAMILTON ISLAND

cruisewhitsundays.com

#cruisewhitsundays

World’s No.1 Reef

Kid’s Club • Daily Activity Schedule • Outdoor Cinema • Animal Park • Luxury Cabins Landscaped Sites • Over 15 Onsite Activities • Multi Award Winning

BIG4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort Reservations 1300 640 587 reservations@adventurewhitsunday.com.au www.adventurewhitsunday.com.au Shute Harbour Road - Airlie Beach

Whitsunday Tourism and Business Awards

WINNER

Business of the Year

THE POINTY END

WORDS JO STEWART

Explore the colours of the Whitsunday Islands

hether you strap on a tank to dive deep below, sail the crystalline waters aboard a yacht or hike up to the heavens for a view from the top, every angle is the Whitsunday Islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; best angle. Just 30 minutes from Whitsunday Coast Airport lies the gateway to the Whitsunday Islands, where

certified scuba dives, sailing adventures, snorkelling day trips, chilled-out cruises and more offer plenty of ways to experience the warm waters and wildlife of the wondrous Whitsundays. How you choose to experience it is all up to you, with everything from yacht charters to day cruises and guided dives all ĂŞ made possible from Airlie Beach.

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THE POINTY END

Here are some of our favourite colours of the Whitsundays: The big blue Located on the outer reef, Bait Reef is characterised by a set of pinnacles that emerge from the ocean floor to form “stepping stones” (that you don’t actually step on, of course). Considered one of the best places to snorkel, in less than an hour of snorkelling in balmy waters my count includes green turtles, iridescent parrotfish of purple, blue and green, neon yellow butterfly fish and even not-as-scary-as-they-sound white-tipped reef sharks lurking in the cloudy darkness of the underwater canyons.

“There's a reason that Whitehaven Beach features on postcards”

White gold There’s a reason Whitehaven Beach features on countless postcards found in airports and souvenir stores. A photographer’s dream, the 7km stretch of snow-white sand fringed by bushland on one side and azure shores on the other is one of those places that seems too good to be true. Whitehaven Beach is not only beautiful, it’s functional too. With silicon sand that doesn’t retain the sun’s heat, you can go for a long walk without burning your feet or doing the awkward two-step to your towel when emerging from a refreshing dip. A popular stop for day cruises from Airlie Beach, Whitehaven’s long stretch of powder-like sand means there’s room for everyone to enjoy a stroll, swim, snooze or enjoy a spot of beach cricket without feeling crowded.

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W E L C O M E O N B O A R D The green mile While undoubtedly the world’s biggest living playground for divers and snorkellers, the Whitsunday Islands National Park isn’t all about aquatic adventures. There are plenty of opportunities for landlubbers to get their kicks too, with Whitsunday Island offering a ladder to heaven for anyone game enough to climb it. Cresting Whitsunday Island, Whitsunday Peak is the tallest in the region and offers incredible sweeping views custom made for activating the panoramic function on your iPhone camera. While visually stunning from the ground level (and below), seeing some of the 74 islands that make up the Whitsundays from above is something else. Climbing Whitsunday Peak might be a sweaty affair, but it’s also a free one – offering a bird’s eye view of the region without having to fork out for a helicopter tour.

colour me rel axed Dive the deep blue sea and stroll the white sand of the Whitsundays and you will leave tickled pink.

A three- to five-hour round trip hike (depending on your fitness and enthusiasm levels), the trail is well-marked and easily accessible from the beach. Finding a soft tree branch to use as a switch to swat away flies is a genius move, as is bringing along a water bottle, hat, sunscreen and insect repellent. Walking along the trail that cuts through towering trees, creeks and boulders, a chorus of cicadas and cackling kookaburras ensure you don’t feel lonely. Towards the end of the climb, the trail gets steeper, with each step asking you, “How much do you want it?” The only way to answer is to put your head down and keep going, knowing that the feeling of exhilaration at the summit will be worth it. And, of course, it is. The only improvement could come in the form of a zipline that despatches redfaced hikers straight into the ocean to cool off instead of having to descend the peak by foot. One can dream, right? tourismwhitsundays.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to the Whitsunday Coast from Brisbane and Sydney, and recently announced an increase in the number of flights due to demand from customers; tigerair.com.au

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The Whitsundays...

more affordable, accessible & enjoyable than ever before!

#lovewhitsundays

n the heart of the Great Barrier Reef lies the Whitsundays, 74 island wonders in the tropical waters of the Coral Sea. The Whitsundays is world-famous for its clear aqua waters and iconic landscapes including Whitehaven Beach and Hill Inlet, and the perfectly shaped natural formation of Heart Reef.

The warm tropical waters of the Whitsundays are dotted with an array of national park islands, coral cays, fringing coral reefs and stunning beaches. The majority of the Whitsunday islands are designated national park, leaving them pristine and untouched. Of the 74 islands, only a handful are inhabited with island resorts offering a range of accommodation and attractions.

The Whitsundays offers some of the world’s best sailing, so charter a boat and cruise the islands, enjoying the beautiful sunsets. Or you can join a jetski or rafting tour and skim across the water at speed, or take a scenic flight and soar above the magical Heart Reef. Swim, snorkel and scuba dive with thousands of brightly coloured fish and the diverse corals of the Great Barrier Reef, and witness diverse marine life including humpback whales, dolphins, turtles and dugongs. Sink your toes into the white silica sands of world-famous Whitehaven Beach, where the seven-kilometre stretch of white silica sands and crystal clear waters is pristine and untouched by development. Spend the day on the beach or explore the breathtaking beauty of Hill Inlet, a stunning cove at the northern end of the beach where the tide shifts the sand and water to create a swirling fusion of turquoise colours. Soak up the tropical lifestyle and laze on one of the many uncrowded beaches, then relax with a sunset cocktail on an island resort and let your everyday stresses melt away. Or hire a car from Airlie Beach and explore the dramatic scenery of country Queensland

around Proserpine and Bowen. Explore the endless natural landscapes and diverse island resorts, and after a great day, indulge in fresh local seafood at one of the many al-fresco restaurants. The opportunities are endless for a truly memorable visit to the heart of the Great Barrier Reef… which is why there is no better place to take a well-deserved holiday than the Whitsundays. Whatever you’re looking for in a holiday, on whatever budget, you’ll find every kind of beauty, adventure and luxury here.

Book now at

tourismwhitsundays.com.au

THE POINTY END

THE PASSENGER

TRAVEL & MUSIC 1 0F 2

A round-table chat with three different travellers. This issue’s topic: music festival trips Paul Chai, festival fan

All festivals have a local accent; they’re not the same no matter where you go. Sometimes the differences are annoying, like when Roskilde gives you a clever paper carrier that allows you to carry eight beers at once – and some Aussie festivals will only sell you one beer after 9pm. Serving alcohol responsibly is a good policy, but often you’re with a big crowd at a festival and one person doing a beer run for eight, while the group gets to stay and watch the music, can feel like a magic trick worthy of David Copperfield.

Sometimes the differences are profound, like the village-like atmosphere that springs up around Worthy Farm for Glastonbury, the UK’s most famous music and arts festival, where you’re no longer at just an event but part of a community of music lovers that are accepting and welcoming to pretty much all comers (and, no, that was not just too much Somerset cider). Standing amongst 100,000 thousand people watching the Rolling Stones perform at Glastonbury for the very first time in 2014 on the Pyramid stage, and that same mass of ê

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY BALDWIN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM

Music festivals are worth travelling for. I’ve driven mobile homes to Roskilde Festival in Denmark; contorted myself into a “bed” in a VW Combi in Glastonbury while house music pumped from speakers nearby that were as big as our car; and flown to Melbourne to catch the Laneway Festival while it was still in actual laneways. And I wouldn’t swap a single crowded, muddy, overpriced, toiletqueues-to-rival-those-huge-lines-at-theLouvre moment for anything. When else on your travels do you arrive at a destination and find yourself instantly surrounded by like-minded travellers all up for a good time? Yes, those same people will later foul the port-a-loos to a level that you had not though possible without locking a troupe of enraged baboons in there for the better part of a month – but on arrival, there’s a wonderful joy in the air as everyone is still under the fitful delusion they’ll manage to see all their favourite bands, despite scheduling conflicts, huge distances between stages and hour-long beer runs.

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THE POINTY END TRAVEL & MUSIC 2 0F 2

"THE SCHEDULING AT MUSIC FESTIVALS MEANS YOU ALWAYS WANT TO BE SOMEWHERE ELSE" thousands spontaneously bursting into a perfect rendition of Satisfaction after the gig was over, is one of the greatest things I’ve ever travelled for. Even local festivals like Laneway change subtly from state to state, from Sydney’s decidedly sunny and green fields to the more urban railway backdrop (and less forgiving weather) of the Melbourne site. You discover local bands you may never have otherwise found, strike up conversations more easily with fellow music fans from all over the world, and the biggest decision you have to make for a few days is which stage to go to at which time. Festivals also represent great value for money, as they are a musical smorgasbord where you’ll see a dozen amazing bands, which, despite often lofty ticket prices, averages out to less than it costs you to see a gig at your local pub.

Connor McLeod, festival cynic I don’t see the point of travelling any distance at all just to stand in a field full of dancing idiots that looks the same the world over. International bands,

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international brands, food trucks that cost more than a night out eating off white tablecloths; you could be anywhere in the world, and yet you have paid to fly, drive, or pilot your giant mobile home (that you don’t really know how to drive properly) for the privilege. I don’t mind going to a gig, paying to see someone I really care about for a few hours and then going home. But I don’t see the point of paying a fortune to see bits and pieces of lots of bands and then wandering off somewhere else only to arrive as the gig is finishing. The few festivals I’ve been silly enough to attend end up being a mad race to chase buzz bands across vast distances only to just miss them, or else you jealously guard your spot at a stage hours in advance of your must-see act only to miss several other gigs on other stages that people are talking about for weeks afterwards. The scheduling at festivals means you always want to be somewhere else. It’s like FOMO on steroids. Festival food is all the same: generic burgers, the ever-present Turkish gozleme, and some Mexican place that runs out of tortillas in the first hour. The beer queues are so long they need to serve drinks to people waiting in the queue just to keep them hydrated, and the toilets really should replace the “men” and “women” signs with an all-purpose hazmat symbol. Then, when it's over, you’re locked in a field full of discarded plastic cups and half-eaten burgers trying to find your tent and praying you don’t have visit the port-a-loos during the night, or ever. Travelling long distances for this sort of experience baffles me the most. How do music festivals really differ from country to country, or state to state, save having to learn a new word for beer? I pity the fool that tries to get me on a plane to go to a music festival – like Mr T of the A-Team, they would have to knock me unconscious first and deal with me at the other end.

Sarah Mitchell, festival opportunist I’ve never travelled with the sole intent of going to a music festival, but I have been in Madrid during a series of Pride concerts in public parks, I have been to a day-long festival in London’s stunning Somerset House that ranks as one of my best live music experiences, and I have been on the receiving end of a freebie from a friend to the Big Day Out in Sydney. A big live music event does change a destination, mostly for the better. In Madrid, the whole city seemed swept up in the weekend-long party; when the crowd spilled out from Somerset House we ended up in a bar with fellow festival goers all keen to dissect the day’s events. Any city hosting a big party is a good place to be, so I can imagine making travel plans around festivals, but my biggest concern is the opportunity cost of what I’m missing out on. I only have so much budget and such limited time and holidays; I would find it hard to commit a week or long weekend to just seeing music when there are so many destinations to explore. When I’m older, will it really be standing under laser lights watching Flume hold the crowd in the palm of his hand that will be one of my enduring travel memories? Or will it be hiking through the Litchfield National Park near Darwin, watching the sunset change the colours of the rock pillars of the Lost City from bright orange to a forebodingly dark red? There’s no reason they both can’t be there, but that’s what I worry about when friends ask me if I want to go to a music festival – what other travel experiences should I make a priority?

TigerAir? How about a Tiger Bungalow!!

A Room with a Zoo...

Unforgettable Dining

Giraffe Treehouse

Jamala Wildlife Lodge in Canberra offers 3 very different accommodation facilities and is amongst the most unique animal lodges in the world. You can stay in uShaka Lodge with its own shark tank, in a Jungle Bungalow virtually built into the habitat of a bear, lion, tiger or cheetah, or in a Giraffe Treehouse where you hand feed your tall neighbour. Included are afternoon and morning tours, 5 star accommodation, gourmet meals and fine wines. Dining is in the uShaka Lodge tropical rainforest cave where you will be joined by magnificent white lions and hyenas. Ph: 02 6287 8444 | Fax: 02 6287 8403 Email: info@jamalawildlifelodge.com.au Web: www.jamalawildlifelodge.com.au Address: 999 Lady Denman Drive, Canberra ACT 2611

Escape to

Bunbury Immerse yourself in the culture Enjoy the nightlife Get in touch with nature Or just kick back and relax

www.visitbunbury.com.au facebook.com/visitbunbury

VISIT TANGALOOMA

DISCOVER MORETON ISLAND Let Tangalooma Island Resort be your base as you explore the worlds third largest sand island, Moreton Island. Snorkel the shipwrecks amongst over 200 species of fish, hand feed wild dolphins, toboggan down the famous sand dunes or go off road on a quad bike tour. The experience is yours... right on Brisbaneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doorstep!

DAY CRUISES FROM

*Conditions apply

PER ADULT

INCLUDES LUNCH!

1300 652 250 tangalooma.com

enquire for overnight rates

THE POINTY END

Get moving on Moreton Island

WORDS TIANA TEMPLEMAN

ith towering sand dunes, crystal clear waters and an adventurous activities program, Queensland's Moreton Island adds a dash of adrenalin to its natural beauty. It’s the world’s third largest sand island and the jewel in Moreton Bay’s crown, with almost the entire island declared as National Park and the surrounding waters forming part of a dedicated Marine Park. Even better, this natural wonderland is just 75 minutes from Brisbane, with the ferry terminal located just 10 minutes from Brisbane Airport by taxi.

Here are five ways to get your heart racing on Moreton Island: Sand tobogganing Grab a piece of waxed masonite board and zoom down a towering sand dune at up to 80kmh on

a Desert Safari Tour, which visits the Moreton Island Desert, 1km south-east of Tangalooma Resort. Your legs might be begging for mercy, but nothing will stop you climbing that sand dune one last time, pulling up the edge of the board for maximum speed and trying to avoid a spectacular, sand-spraying wipe out on the way down.

Snorkelling Discover stingrays, wobbegong sharks and a kaleidoscope of colourful tropical fish on a guided snorkelling tour of the Tangalooma Wrecks. This dive and snorkel site, located just off shore, is made up of 17 vessels that were deliberately sunk to create a break wall for small boats and an exciting wreck dive and snorkelling site. Although you can swim out to the wrecks at low tide, the current can challenge even the strongest of swimmers, so think twice before you attempt to go it alone. ê

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“Pull up the edge of the board for maximum speed and try to avoid a wipe out” Segway tours Fortunately, the Segway tours on Moreton Island skip the desert’s towering dunes in favour of the beach. Don’t be surprised if you see girls in bikinis zipping up and down the sand as they try out their new-found skills. Sunbathers and families favour the swimming area in front of the resort, so follow your guide towards Tangalooma’s famous wrecks, where you will have the sand pretty much to yourself.

moreton isl and fun Just a short trip from Queensland is a world of sand and adrenalin on Moreton Island. Grab a sand board, a Segway or a snorkel.

Quadbiking It’s a slipping, sliding and speedy ride over the shifting sands of the rolling dunes on your quadbike tour. Although all abilities are catered for, the uneven terrain on this tour can be tricky at times. Less confident riders could have more fun joining the tour as a pillion passenger with one of the guides, while experienced riders can go solo.

Where to stay TANGALOOMA ISL AND RESORT With a choice of accommodation styles, ranging from basic hotel rooms to elegant apartments sleeping up to 10 guests, the island’s only resort offers something to suit every taste and budget. You can book tours such as the Desert Safari and Quad Biking at the resort’s tour desk. tangalooma.com

Swimming You need a 4WD to reach some of Moreton Island’s more remote beaches, such as the pristine 11km stretch along the island’s north shore. However, everyone can swim at the easily accessible Tangalooma Beach, the pristine stretch of sand nearest the ferry stop. This 8km long beach has calm waters that sparkle in the sunlight, tempting swimmers to dive in, even when the weather is cool. Tangalooma Beach is surrounded by vegetated sand dunes, which provide welcome protection if the wind gets up. On a clear day, you can look across the water and see the distant high rise of Brisbane’s CBD.

H O L I D AY H O U S E R E N T A L Holiday houses are available for rent near Tangalooma and at the small townships of Cowan Cowan and Bulwer, which also has a general store stocking essentials such as groceries, and bait and tackle. You need a 4WD to reach these two townships.

CAMPING National Parks operate five campgrounds on Moreton Island, with toilet and (cold water) shower facilities, plus five camping zones. The Wrecks campground is within walking distance of the barge landing; others are accessible by 4WD or by boat. A camping permit is required before arriving on the island; drivers will also need a vehicle permit. nprsr.qld.gov.au

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t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane from six destinations; tigerair.com.au

THE POINTY END

We sent a drone to hover above North Terrace in Adelaide so you can scope out the hot spots to visit...

RUNDLE MALL Tucked behind North Terrace is the Rundle Mall precinct. The mall is the shopping heart of the city and is also striking distance to the famous Adelaide Central Market. rundlemall.com

2KW BAR On the eighth floor of a historic building on North Terrace and King William Street (KW, geddit?) is a sophisticated bar with a killer view. The fairy-light strung Loggia Bar is a great terrace bar to meet friends in summer. 2kwbar.com.au

SOUTH AUSTRALIAN MUSEUM The city's natural history museum also has a great Indigenous culture gallery. Current temporary exhibition is Curious Beasts: Animal Prints from Durer to Goya. samuseum.sa.gov.au

ADEL AIDE UNIVERSIT Y Established in 1874, the University of Adelaide is the third oldest university in Australia. adelaide.edu.au

A D E L A I D E O VA L The famous venue that hosts everything from AFL to the upcoming boxing bout between Anthony Mundine and Danny Green. Plus, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a new RoofClimb experience (see Weekend Warriors, p.66) adelaideoval.com.au

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drone's-eye view

nor t h t er r a c e

3 4

ADEL A IDE

DRONES FOR HIRE We'd like you to meet dronesforhire.com.au â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Australia's largest online directory of drone operators. Their team sent us this stunning drone shot of Hobart's wharf district. To get images of your house, construction site, or even to map a large area, visit dronesforhire.com.au.

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THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

HEART HOTEL AND GALLERY WHITSUNDAYS Airlie Beach

hy it's worth it: Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll feel like a VIP the moment you step off your Tigerair flight at nearby Whitsunday Coast airport where your chauffeur is waiting to quickly whisk you away. Unwind in the quiet comfort of the Lexus as you skirt the Conway National Park with its tranquil rainforest-clad hills sloping to the wide flat cane fields that line your route. The Whitsundays

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has always been considered the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, and the new Heart Hotel is definitely in the heart of Airlie Beach, the best mainland point for excursions to the Reef. Bang for your buck: Upon arrival you can either perk up with your own Nespresso or wind down a little more with your complimentary chilled

champagne. Flop onto the king-size bed and listen to your own music via Bluetooth on the Bose sound system, or relax in the spa bath and enjoy the sweetsmelling L’Occitane products provided. The digs: The hotel itself looks like a grand old Queenslander and the décor is “modern beach house”. Combined with the views over the park to Airlie Beach waterfront through dappled gum trees, you’ll feel the ambience of the nearby ocean. Explore the hotel’s private art gallery before strolling to any of the dozen or so restaurants within a twominute walk from the hotel.

WORDS DEBORAH DICKSON-SMITH

Must-do experience: The Whitsundays is famous for three things: the cool white sands of Whitehaven Beach, Heart Reef (symbolic really, of the Great Barrier Reef), and the famous coral reefs just below the surface. You can take in all three in a scenic tour with Helipad helicopters. There’s something very special about arriving in the middle of the 7km-long Whitehaven beach, away from the crowds, after seeing the spectacular views of Hill Inlet from the air. After a leisurely stroll along the cool white sand, jump back in the chopper for a flight over Heart Reef, before landing on an isolated beach. Here you’ll be met by your own private snorkel guide, who’ll help you find Nemo and his friends on

the nearby colourful reef while your pilot prepares your seafood hamper and chills the champagne. On your return to Abel Point Marina, your Heart Hotel chauffeur will again be waiting for you. The damage: An ocean view room at the Heart Hotel will set you back $325. It includes airport transfer, breakfast and a bottle of complimentary champagne on arrival. 277 Shute Harbour Road, Airlie Beach; athotelgroup.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to the Whitsunday Coast from Sydney; tigerair.com.au

w h i t s u n d ay l u x u r y Take a chopper flight over the Heart Reef, visit Whitehaven Beach or just relax in your room at the Heart Hotel.

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AFTER 6'3 6'1 5'11

5'11

BEFORE

5 10cm TALLER

www.TALLER.com.au

THE POINTY END

WORDS CATHERINE BEST PHOTOS TOURISM QUEENSLAND, CATHERINE BEST, SHUTTERSTOCK

See glow worms on the Gold Coast

aggots have never looked so magnificent. The stomach-turning white wrigglers I’m familiar with are nowhere to be seen here. In their place is a galaxy of blue-green lights shimmering like diamantes in the darkness. I’m standing in a cave at Natural Bridge in Springbrook National Park in the Gold Coast hinterland, staring in awe at a colony of glow worms. Pockets of star dust cling to rock crevices, and bioluminescent threads dangle from the ceiling, turning the cavern into a celestial wonderland. The air, cool and thick with humidity, carries the roar of a nearby waterfall that has been swallowed by the night.

Natural Bridge is one of the Gold Coast’s greatest natural treasures, and its most famous inhabitants – the aforementioned glow worms – put on a dazzling evening performance for those who don’t mind a trek through the forest after dark. We arrive in the late afternoon for a reconnaissance mission and to enjoy the park in daylight before tackling the walk at night. The short 1km bitumen circuit descends through ancient Gondwana rainforest, thick with ferns, eucalypts, palms and towering strangler figs. We cross a bridge and arrive at a series of steps that leads to a viewing platform and, eventually, the cave. ê

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THE POINTY END “The glow worms are like staring at a desert night sky or looking out over a distant sleeping city”

It’s a magical Pixie Hollow scene. Millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion have carved a large basalt chamber out of the rainforest. A shaft of light streams through the ceiling where a section has collapsed under the force of a waterfall, illuminating a silver cascade that spills into an emerald pool. There are no glow worms to be seen in the daylight, just the occasional frenzied flap of bent-wing bats. But there’s plenty of time for them later – and this geological marvel really ought to be enjoyed in the daytime, first. When we return shortly after sunset, the forest has taken on an eerie nocturnal life. The thrum of insects and frogs fills the air and long human shadows materialise in the bushes, courtesy of my young daughter plodding behind, who has an erratic clasp of the torch. It starts to rain lightly, thick droplets hit the ground and the fireflies dancing along the pathway look in danger of being extinguished. When the sound of tumbling water drowns out the insects, we know we are close. We diffuse the torchlight in our fists while we shuffle down the stairs so as not to upset the glow worms and intrude on the other

another side of the gc Away from the bright lights of Surfers Paradise are the more subtle natural illuminations of glow worms.

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visitors. It takes a few moments for our eyes to adjust to the darkness, and then we see them: thousands of tiny glow worms speckled throughout the cave like diamonds encrusted on rock. It’s like staring at a desert night sky or looking out over a distant sleeping city, the waterfall providing an ethereal, hypnotic soundtrack to the experience. Natural Bridge is home to one of Australia’s largest colonies of glow worms

(Arachnocampa flava), but don’t let the name deceive you. They are actually mosquito-like flies, and the glow they emit comes from their larvae. They’re beautiful to look at, but the biology behind these mesmerising lights is rather icky. They are essentially a sticky snare for attracting and catching prey, made up of mucus, and made pretty thanks to a chemical reaction of bodily waste and other matter. In some colonies you can see glow worms that resemble dainty chains of dew-drop necklaces. Not bad for a bunch of maggots.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to the Gold Coast from Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

The details

If you want to see the caves and glow worms of the Gold Coast hinterland.

NATUR AL BRIDGE is about an hour’s drive south-west of Surfers Paradise. You can travel here independently or as part of an organised tour. Tour Gold Coast offers glow worm tours for $99 per adult and $60 per children (age 4-11). tourgc.com.au

MANTR A TOWERS OF CHEVRON Mantra Towers of Chevron is in the heart of Surfers Paradise, five minutes’ walk to the beach and Cavill Avenue and features a large beach lagoon pool on level five. One-bedroom apartments cost from $230 a night off-peak. 23 Ferny Ave, Surfers Paradise; mantra.com.au

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summer festivals

The fest of times At the world’s most famous music festival, it’s called a “Glastonbury Moment” – that occasion when a band, timing, energy, crowd and even weather combine to make an unforgettable, unrepeatable instance in time. But all festivals have them, so Paul Chai asked the heads of our summer fests what those moments were for them – and we check out the summer line-ups.

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summer festivals

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REGISTRATIONS FILLING FAST MELBOURNE 100KM 7–9 APRIL 2017 BRISBANE 100KM | 60KM 16-18 JUNE 2017 SYDNEY 100KM 25–27 AUGUST 2017 PERTH 100KM | 50KM 22–24 SEPTEMBER 2017 * *Date subject to change.

summer festivals

TASH SULTANA PHOTOS SAMARA CLIFFORD

t my first Glastonbury, in 1999, the Manic Street Preachers had a late afternoon slot and were riding high after the release of their album This is My Truth Tell Me Yours. Like most Glastos, it had been wet; not trench-foot wet, but a fairly miserable day so far. We walked over to the huge pyramid stage that was already sporting a bigger crowd than expected. The crowd was restless too – keen and full of anticipation. When the Manics came on, everyone went off, dancing and lobbing the occasional full beer skyward. But the actual “moment” came when they started into the big single “You Stole the Sun from My Heart”. Almost on cue, the afternoon sun broke through the clouds, and 30,000 people went nuts, pogoing (and singing) as one – a memory that comes instantly back the minute I put the song on. Some festival moments are bittersweet. At the Roskilde Festival in 2000, nine people were killed in a crush watching Pearl Jam. The following day, the mood was rightfully sombre, headline acts for that day cancelled, and we wondered if the festival was over. In the afternoon, we wandered down to see if the Henry Rollins Band were still going to play on the main stage. Rollins came on dressed in just a pair of shorts. He prowled up to the microphone, clearly affected by the night before. But, instead of cancelling, he dedicated the set to the fallen and played one of the most blistering shows I had seen, just metres from where flowers had been laid. It seemed appropriate; the music was what brought us all there. This summer in Australia, thousands of music fans will head to the country’s best summer music festivals. They will queue and dance and kick back on the grass amidst a sea of plastic cups. Melbourne singer-songwriter, Tash Sultana, plays at Laneway Festival around the country and Southbound Festival in Perth. "I like festival vibes,” Tash says. “Just when the weather is warm and everyone is having a good time." Tash has had an amazing year, from busking on the streets of Melbourne to

being one of the hottest properties on the live music circuit this summer. Watching Tash put together the loops and samples on her breakout single “Jungle” in a live bedroom recording has had over half a million views on YouTube, and shows what a talent she is. Tash, and a host of Aussie and overseas acts, are poised to make your ê next festival moments.

MELBOURNE SINGER-SONGWRITER TASH SULTANA, RECENT WINNER O F T H E “ U N E A R T H E D J A W A R D ”, WILL BE PL AYING ALL SUMMER

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The very first Laneway in Singapore “It was three or four hours before gates opened and the rain was already well on its way. Fans were lining up early, and as more fans joined the queue, the clouds got darker and the rain became a force. We dubbed it “Rainway”. There were amazing sets from bands like Warpaint and The Temper Trap, and the spirit of the crowd that day – as they endured constant torrential downpours – reminded me of why we do this. No matter the circumstances, everyone was there to have the best time. We love music!

The original Melbourne Laneway I was standing on a roof of a derelict building overlooking a lane full of people having the greatest time, and I knew we had something special. What that was at the time has become a core value of the festival today. Great music, great ê friends, great times.

The time Lorde brought her Grammy home to Laneway Auckland JEROME BORAZIO LANEWAY FESTIVAL “At Laneway Festival Auckland in 2014, Lorde returned to her hometown after winning at the Grammys. You could sense the pride and see the anticipation in people's faces. The sun had gone down, and as they waited for her to appear, they were getting louder and louder. Against doctor’s wishes, Lorde went on stage and gave 1,000 per cent to her performance. The professionalism, the dedication and sheer determination to rock Auckland, no matter what, was truly inspirational.”

L A N E W AY F E S T I VA L 2 0 1 7 The latest Laneway Festival line-up features Aussie hip-hop group A.B. Original, Melbourne band (and previous Tiger Tales cover stars) Camp Cope, Tash Sultana and Tassie hard rockers Luca Brasi. Overseas acts include the UK’s Grammy winner Tourist (aka Will Phillips), Whitney from the US, and punk rockers White Lung. lanewayfestival.com

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summer festivals

The time the Flaming Lips lost power at Falls Festival PAUL PITICCO, CO-PROMOTER FALLS FESTIVAL “At 12 midnight, New Year’s Eve – literally that two or three minutes after midnight every year – watching the optimism for the year ahead emerge from the rubble of the year past. People sharing that with their friends and with their favourite artists onstage, that turning point between those two cycles. That makes Falls just that little bit more special. Once, just at the stroke of midnight, and just after the critical moment, the power went down as The Flaming Lips were about to close their set – it was a harsh yank back down to earth for the audience, but it was rectified really quickly and the band just brought everyone back to that magical place.”

F A L L S F E S T I VA L 2 0 1 7

FALL S FESTIVAL IS THAT BIT MORE SPECIAL BECAUSE THE CROWD GETS TO SEE IN THE NEW YEAR

The Falls Music and Arts Festival that takes place in Lorne, Marion Bay, Byron Bay and Fremantle is being toplined by US musician and writer Childish Gambino. Locally, we can look forward to Violent Soho, who had a brilliant 2016; Perth producer Ta-Ku, The Rubens, The Jezabels and the hard-touring You Am I. “I am most looking forward to London Grammar and Catfish and the Bottlemen – oh, and Childish Gambino,” Paul Piticco says. fallsfestival.com

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The time a giant ball made a break for it at Mofo BRIAN RITCHIE, CURATOR MOFO “In Mofo 2010 we had a bizarre moment of anarchy and the music intruded upon the real world in a confusing way. Sound artist Jon Rose created a work called the Big Ball. It was a huge rubber ball fitted with radio transmitter sensors, and the ball was unleashed into the audience at an outdoor stage on the Hobart waterfront. As the audience passed and bounced the ball around, creating noise, the ball got out of control and settled precariously upon the rooftop of the stage Jon was on. As it wobbled, a collective gasp happened in the audience, which was followed by screams when the ball left its perch and plummeted into one of the Hobart waterfront’s busiest streets. The look upon the taxi driver’s face was priceless as the giant ball veered ê towards his cab. There was much hilarity.”

MOFO 2017 Heading up Mofo this year is Puscifer, with Tool’s Maynard James Keenan, and tetema, side project of Faith No More frontman Mike Patten and Aussie composer Anthony Pateras. Also playing are Regurgitator, US’s Circuit des Yeux and Julian Day. “I’m looking forward to hearing the 20 metres of ‘long string instrument’ from Ellen Fullman taking over the Nolan Gallery inside Mona,” Brian Ritchie says. mofo.net.au

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summer festivals

WOLFMOTHER FANS GOT SO EXCITED THEY ALMOST SHUT SOUTHBOUND DOWN WHEN THE BAND WERE L ATE

SOUTHBOUND 2017 The line-up at Southbound is full of must-see acts from Highasakite and Hermitude to Montaigne and Mosquito Coast, Triple J’s Unearthed High winners. You can see San Cisco, Safia and the Smith Street Band. Plus Tash Sultana will be making an appearance once again. southboundfestival. com.au

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The time that Southbound nearly got shut down DAVE CHITTY, MANAGING DIRECTOR AND PROMOTER SOUTHBOUND “I can’t remember the year, but Wolfmother were the band that summer and Southbound sold out at 25,000 peeps well in advance. Only two years prior they had played on the third stage as an emerging act. At the time, the festival was an all-ages show, so we had fencing separating the licensed and unlicensed areas.

Wolfmother had the key slot playing after dark and the crowd was not only massive, they were also very excited for the set. I remember checking the time and realising the band was due to go on but hadn’t arrived at the stage yet. Given the anticipation, it only took a few minutes for the crowd to start getting restless, chanting “Wolfmother” over and over again. I went backstage to head to their dressing room to make sure everything was okay. As I entered backstage, one of the local police officers grabbed me and said I needed to head to their control room urgently. The police officer pointed to a particular CCTV camera and an operator zoomed in and showed me the crowd becoming very restless for Wolfmother to come on. They were pushing the fence in the thousands and it looked like it was about to go over. The officer said if the fence went down and the licensed areas weren’t able to be separated from the under 18s, then they would have to stop the show. ê

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summer festivals

The rest of the fests F I E L D D AY Recover from New Year’s Eve with some doof-doof in the park, headlined by Chance the Rapper and Childish Gambino. January 1; The Domain, Sydney; fieldday.sydney

SOUTHBOUND FESTIVAL CONTIUNES TO DELIGHT DESPITE A NIGHT WHERE THINGS ALMOST WENT VERY WRONG

R AINBOW SERPENT This festival in Western Victoria celebrates 20 years this year with music from The Herd and Steve Ward. January 27-30, Lexton, Victoria; rainbowserpent.net

B Y R O N B AY B L U E S F E S T

I made it very clear to the officer in charge that if the show was cancelled there would be a riot on their hands. I was informed the riot squad wasn’t nearby, so I suggested the best thing to do would be to put Wolfmother on stage and the crowd would settle down. Good idea, one of them said – so I was off…. I quickly made a call on radio to operations to get site crew to the fence area to secure it if required. I then went to Wolfmother’s room (the band were between 5-10 minutes late now) and found

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the band in a chilled-out, meditative state. I updated the tour manager about the situation and they all suddenly realised they had lost track of time and were just in their own world, prepping for their show. Thankfully, they responded straight away and rushed up on stage to the most incredible response I’ve ever heard, and as they launched into hit single “Woman”, the site crew were fixing up the first section of fencing that had come down. And as they say, the show must, and did, go on…

Not quite summer, but still one of the biggest dates on the festival calendar that has seen Bob Dylan, BB King and Robert Plant take the stage. April 13-17, Tyagarah Tea Tree Farm, Byron Bay; bluesfest.com.au

LOST PAR ADISE A New Year’s Eve party in New South Wales’ Glenworth Valley, the 2016 edition will feature Sticky Fingers and Flight Facilities, as well as a glamping option. December 29-31, Glenworth Valley; lostparadise.com.au

M O U N T A I N S O U N D S F E S T I VA L Set in the Mount Penang Parklands in New South Wales, this festival has a killer 2017 line-up that includes Rufus, Hermitude and DMA’s. February 17-18, Central Coast, NSW; mountainsoundsfestival.com.au

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DE S T IN AT ION A DE L A IDE

a l ic e

is a freelancer who grew up in Adelaide, touring the city with an accent on wine.

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION,

TWO

DIFFERENT

ADVENTURES

m a r ie

hits Adelaideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s health and fitness circuit.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

BRE A K FA S T CL UB The Flinders Street Project (276 Flinders Street, Adelaide; theflindersstreetproject.com.au) is buzzing with activity. All the outside tables are full, so I head inside for a seat at the communal table. I make short work of a flat white and the Clare Valley poached eggs.

TO M A RK E T, TO M A RK E T

CHIN ATOWN TIME

An Adelaide institution, the Central Market (44-60 Gouger Street, Adelaide; adelaidecentralmarket.com. au) was established in 1869 and is one of the largest undercover food markets in the Southern Hemisphere. I like to wander around, sample the fresh produce, cheese, bread and more from the 80-plus traders and see what takes my fancy.

I head into bustling Chinatown, which, handily, is right next door to the Central Market. Come here and kick off your day with the best yum cha the city has to offer, or drop in for a late-night plate of noodles after a night out in the nearby bars.

A L IC E

goes to market, has a laksa and visits some gardens.

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LIVING GR AV E YA RDS

NOSE-TO-BOT TL ENOSE Everyone dreams to swim with wild dolphins. I join Temptation Sailing’s 58-ft catamaran (Holdfast Shores Marina; dolphinboat.com.au), to sail into Gulf St Vincent. Slipping into the water, we clasp a flotation line, while the bay’s common and bottlenose beauties check us out – on their terms! How close they frolic is a breath-holding experience.

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PIZ Z A TO GO Adelaide-based Good Life Pizza (42 Jetty Road, Glenelg; goodlifepizza.com) uses organic-only, regional produce bursting with nutrition. So flavour-packed is their balsamic vinegar-marinated Swiss brown mushroom pizza – it’s a time not to share!

Adventure Kayaking SA (Garden Island; adventurekayak.com.au) launches me into the river at Port Adelaide to paddle between nature and history. I needle through sundappled, mangrove-forested creeks, before heading to the rusting skeletons on the Ships’ Graveyard Maritime Heritage Trail. Peering into their bellies through their cracked ribs is eerie.

DESTINATION ADELAIDE

GOING G A RDENING The ethereal Palm House at the Botanic Gardens (North Terrace, Adelaide; environment.sa.gov.au) is one of my favourite spots in the city. The Victorian glasshouse, which is filled with plants from Madagascar, was imported from Bremen, Germany in 1875.

A SPEEDY L A K S A I figure I’ve worked up enough of an appetite with my morning market food safari to have earned what has to be the best laksa outside of Malaysia. Chinatown Cafe (Moonta Street, Adelaide) is not the place to come for a leisurely lunch – it’s quick, cheap and oh so very good.

DUCKING OUT It’s a beautiful sunny day, so I head to the other side of the city for a walk along the path, popular with joggers and cyclists, that runs along the River Torrens. I follow the river past the back of Adelaide University and towards Adelaide Oval and the new footbridge. A duck and her ducklings paddle past. Cute.

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is a water baby. She swims with wild dolphins, pulls a paddle and strikes a yoga pose.

ZEN-TIME On the blissfully empty sands of Largs Bay, Norfolk Island pines frame my dancer’s pose, upward dog and handstands, with just the heritage jetty for company. I then strip to wade through the shallows. It’s a perfect spot for this saltwater-lover.

FREE WHEELING I grab a free bike from the friendly folk at Port Adelaide’s Visitor Information Centre (66 Commercial Road; bikesa.asn.au/ adelaidefreebikeslocation). It’s like riding a sofa on the wide, spongy seat. With the wind in my helmet, I pedal to the coastline.

RE TRO DINING With salt in my hair, I cycle to Sarah’s Sister’s Sustainable Cafe (117 Semaphore Road; facebook. com/SarahsSisters). I sit among mismatched 1970s tables, chairs and lamps beneath a yurt ceiling (sporting a bicycle). From their locally sourced, seasonal and sustainable vegetarian menu (aiming at zero waste), I select the gluten-free risotto roast.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

PUB GRUB The newly renovated Uraidla Hotel (1198 Greenhill Road, Uraidla; uraidlahotel.com.au) is a little gem that is well worth the drive into the hills. Their inventive menu is a step above the normal pub grub and they use produce from local market gardeners.

B A RK LIFE FRED, a cheerful, dog-friendly cafe in leafy Aldgate (220 Mount Barker Road, Aldgate; fredeatery.com.au) in the Adelaide Hills does excellent custom-blended coffee and an all-day breakfast. I go for the roasted mushrooms on toast with pesto and Lobethal Goat’s curd.

L ONG A ND WINDING ROA D The Adelaide Hills are picturesque with winding roads, small farms and vineyards that make for a lovely drive. We take the scenic route on the way to our lunch destination and soak up the vistas of Carey Gully.

a l ic e

has some cab sav, goes for a walk and gets a huge pizza.

S AT UR D AY

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WA L KING DOWN THE AISL E

GOOD MORNING GR A NOL A I breakfast at The Nourish’d Kitchen (3 Ann Street, Stepney; thenourishdkitchen.com.au). Part of the “real food movement”, Nourish’d use their own farm’s grass-fed beef and lamb and free-range chicken and eggs. They also cook only in cold-pressed, extra virgin olive and coconut oils. The coconut granola and almond milk is delicious.

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GONN A M A K E YOU S WE AT From pull-ups to sit-ups and step-ups to hurdles, I get active on the Adelaide Park Lands Trail (off East Terrace). Victoria Park’s seriously pretty tree-lined avenue is home to the Sweat Course, here since 1971. Its series of public exercise stations gets the heart pumping.

Trawling Adelaide Central Market’s aisles gets me hungry (44-60 Gouger Street; adelaidecentralmarket.com.au). From McLaren Vale olives and Kangaroo Island honey to wild goat and emu meat, it’s all found here. This is South Australia’s iconic pantry, so I pile up on Barossa Fine Foods’ ham, handmade cheddar and seasonal cherries and pears for a riverside picnic.

DESTINATION ADELAIDE

PIZ Z A THE AC TION

IMPOR TA NT SUMMIT OFF FOR A WA L K On the way back down the hill we stop at the Mount Lofty Botanic Gardens (16 Lampert Road, Crafers; environment.sa.gov.au) that overlooks Piccadilly Valley and specialises in cool-climate plants. It’s worth packing your walking shoes to explore the winding trails.

There are two ways to reach Mount Lofty Summit: the easy way and the hard way. The hard way is to trek up from Waterfall Gully to Adelaide’s highest peak. We cheat and go the driving option, stopping by to admire the panoramic views of the city all the way to the coast.

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What’s better than a normal-size pizza? A one-metre long pizza, of course. That’s the theory at Antica (226 Morphett Street, Adelaide; anticapizzeria.com.au) anyway, and after we demolish ours, we agree. Choose three toppings for your epic stretch of pie.

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m a r ie

tastes the market, gets hot in the park and scales the roof of Adelaide Oval.

WHERE VIL L AINS DINE

PA RK PICNIC I take the free tram to North Terrace and walk to Elder Park. On its grassy banks, I shake out the rug, lay the picnic, and watch the bikes and boats go by. The River Torrens lazily trickles beneath the 2014-built Riverbank Bridge that leads pedestrians to where Sir Donald Bradman struck 299 not out against South Africa (Adelaide Oval’s Test run record).

GIRL ON A HOT TIN ROOF I’m here to climb Adelaide Oval (War Memorial Drive; roofclimb.com.au). Climb guide, Jason, leads the recently opened RoofClimb experience. With 360-degree views of Adelaide, we scale the roofs of the Western and Riverbank Stands and walk the dizzying link bridge.

Hidden on the balcony level of charming Adelaide Arcade is 1950s-style Two-Bit Villains Soda Bar & Diner (Rundle Mall; two-bitvillains.com). It’s housed in the old ballroom still sporting Doric colonnades. On the outdoor terrace, I fill up on their FODMAP-friendly quinoa-filled Smokin’ Sweet Potato Pot Pie. And I sip on a Tummy Tonic: their hand-crafted botanical soda containing star anise, ginger, lemon and mint.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

TEL LING BREK K Y A quick caffeine hit is necessary before I head to McLaren Vale for lunch and wine tasting. I drop into Tell Henry (20 The Parade West, Kent Town; facebook.com/tellhenry), a cafe housed in a converted warehouse in Kent Town that serves seriously good coffee.

WINE TIME Located at one of the best vantage points in McLaren Vale, it’s hard to beat d’Arry’s Verandah at d’Arenberg (Osborn Road, McLaren Vale; darenberg.com.au) for lunch. Head next door and sample their wines at the cellar door before you select from the wine list – or load up your car. The 2013 The High Trellis cab sav went down very well with the duck egg pappardelle with mushrooms.

CEL L A R DOOR VISIT You could spend days exploring the McLaren Vale wineries. After lunch we pop into the Angove cellar door on Chalk Hill Road (Bookmark Avenue, Renmark; angove.com.au), which overlooks their organic and biodynamic vineyard, and sample some of their excellent shiraz.

a l ic e

goes all-out wine on a tour of the McLaren Vale region.

S UND AY

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SCRUBBING UP WEL L

S TA MPING OUT HUNGER I pre-fuel for my next activity by seating at Stamps Restaurant in the foothills. For sustenance, I order the super-nutritious smoked salmon, poached eggs, spinach and avocado on sourdough. Resisting coffee, I opt for a pot of Puri-T, infused with elder, calendula and hibiscus flowers, dandelion root, ginger and spearmint.

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FROM GUL LY TO SUMMIT From Waterfall Gully, I begin the ascent to Mount Lofty summit. Insanely scenic, I pass two waterfalls before the climb becomes crazily steep. Wildflowers scent the trail, while bearded dragons, roos and koalas conveniently distract my sore legs.

At Mount Lofty House’s Stables Day Spa (74 Mt Lofty Summit Road; stablesdayspa.com.au), I collapse onto a massage table for their Signature Spa Ritual. Scrubbed from nose-to-toe with cane sugar and nut butters, I’m then effleuraged (massaged in a circular motion) with hydrating lemongrass oils. My face gets a clay exfoliation and a vitamin-C mask, while my hair is coated in a nourishing orange mask.

DESTINATION ADELAIDE

A R TIS A N OLIV E OIL It’s not just good wine that you’ll find being produced in McLaren Vale. The Lloyd Brothers Wine & Olive Company (Warners Road, McLaren Vale; lloydbrothers.com.au) have a delicious range of olives and olive oil sourced from their olive grove … and wine.

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WINE WITH A VIE W Our last stop before heading back to the city is Coriole cellar door (Chaffeys Road, McLaren Vale; coriole.com). Coriole rivals d’Arenberg with its McLaren Vale vistas, and if you can tear your eyes away from the view, the 1860 ironstone barn surrounded by lovingly tended gardens, that houses the cellar door, adds its fair share of bucolic wine-country ambience.

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BE A RING WITNESS Driving back to the city through the hills, we keep our eyes peeled for wildlife. We’re in luck and spot a mother and baby koala dozing, drunk on eucalyptus.

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m a r ie

MIL LING A ROUND I indulge at The Bridgewater Mill (Mount Barker Road; thebridgewatermill.com.au). From this 1860s flourmill, award-winning chef, Zac Ronayne, masterfully concocts dishes featuring fresh produce grown from the owners’ veggie gardens.

THOSE BL OOMING HIL L S The Mount Lofty Botanic Garden (Summit Road; botanicgardens. sa.gov.au) spills down the slopes of Mount Lofty itself. Overlooking Piccadilly Valley, and dotted with sculptures, it’s a colour explosion of rhododendrons, roses and native plants. I share the gardens with swans, ducks, and even a koala resting in the fork of a gum. It's also home of the Heysen hiking trail.

climbs from waterfall to summit, collapses on a massage bed, and breathes in hilltop gardens.

SMOOTHIE TA L K ER Continuing the cleanse, I enjoy a smoothie at The Organic Market and Cafe (5 Druid Avenue, organicmarket.com.au) in Stirling. The potion of choice is the acai, blueberry, banana and coconut water blend, which I slurp on the cafe’s shady verandah.

FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors get in touch.

tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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CANBERRA

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CANBERRA

Capital games Once derided as the sleepy seat of government, Canberra has recently morphed into an adult playground with creative spaces, boutique brewers and pop-up shops. Ricky French looks at the people behind the change and gets some young politicians to vote on their top spots. WORDS RICKY FRENCH PHOTO VISIT CANBERRA

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A mysterious cult Secrets and ceremonies from across the globe.

2 million years of human history – in one room! National Museum of Australia, Canberra nma.gov.au/100objects ON SHOW UNTIL 29 JANUARY 2017

Statue of Mithras, 100–200 CE, Italy © Trustees of the British Museum

The presentation of this exhibition is a collaboration between the British Museum, the Western Australian Museum and the National Museum of Australia

CANBERRA

f you find yourself walking down Lonsdale Street in the inner-northern Canberra suburb of Braddon (and frankly you could do a lot worse), don’t be surprised if you get stared at, analysed, and possibly even interrogated. Your inquisitor is likely to be Nik Bulum, the 42-year-old Canberra native who almost single-handedly transformed Lonsdale Street from a semi-industrial, drab strip of car yards, mechanics and boarded-up buildings, to a buzzing strip it seems everyone wants to be a part of. Braddon is now one of Canberra’s most fashionable and fastest-growing suburbs: two “F” words you don’t normally associate with the nation’s capital. But ridding itself of old connotations and ushering in new (more welcome) stereotypes is something Canberra is getting good at. And fast.

“We’ve traditionally been a city of bureaucrats, who are by nature quite risk averse. But now we’re seeing people come in, turning Canberra into a vital, interesting place”

With a mind that never stops ticking over, and wide eyes that scan the street like a radar, Bulum says his habit of staring at people is often mistaken for rudeness. “It’s the best way to learn. It’s all information for me – who walks here, what they’re holding, what they’re wearing, their age. That was my key to creating this area.” It’s hardly a hyperbolic claim. Today’s Lonsdale Street is unrecognisable from 10 years ago, when Bulum began with his big ideas.

THE SUBURB OF BRADDON HAS BECOME A LIGHTNING ROD FOR CANBERR A’S HIP DINERS AND DRINKERS

Bulum left Canberra when he was young, which was the expected thing in a city mocked, disparaged and considered dull. He lived in Melbourne and Sydney, where he studied fashion, before moving back to Canberra to begin the project that would change his life and kickstart the reinvention of the city. Bulum’s family owned land on Lonsdale Street in Braddon, and Bulum convinced his father to go against real estate agent advice and do the unthinkable: rent out the premises to independent businesses at next to nothing. “At first, people thought I was insane,” he says. “It was a sleepy town, but the minute the shops opened the energy was unleashed. I gave cheap rents to allow people to build a fan-base, to get the area going and bring interest. I didn’t look at it as me being a developer, it was more a creative project.” Part of the plan, Bulum says, was to keep the chain stores out. The brick buildings where mechanics once worked are now occupied by businesses such as Grease Monkey, an American-style burger joint and bar whose name and grungy ê

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THE DESIGNER WITH THE MIDAS TOUCH Stuart Devlin AO is widely regarded as Australia’s pre-eminent gold and silversmith of our time — the designer with the Midas touch. His glittering career began as the designer of our nation’s original decimal coins. Now the Royal Australian Mint proudly presents The Designer with the Midas Touch, an exhibition honouring five decades of Devlin’s masterly work. From the distinctive coins that made his name, to his acclaimed international work, including designing and creating precious objects as Goldsmith and Jeweller to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Brimming with unparalleled pieces from Devlin’s private collection and behind-the-scenes rarities, this is a must-see exhibition for anyone who appreciates fine art, design or numismatics.

Exhibition from 16 December 2016 Royal Australian Mint, Canberra Free Admission

www.ramint.gov.au

CANBERRA

THE CUPPING TABLE ( ABOVE) AND THE HAMLET (BELOW ) HAVE BENEFITED FROM THE CITY’S POP-UP CULTURE design is a nod to the building’s former life, but whose customers are more likely to arrive by fixie rather than Ford. Pop-up retail dominates a building known as Lonsdale Street Traders. Businesses would cut their teeth there, before finding permanent homes elsewhere on the street, making way for even newer businesses to come in. Bulum says the organic nature of the street’s development means it’s constantly changing – and, he adds, that’s the way it should be.

“Developer can be a dirty word,” Bulum says. “But I don’t really understand why. A developer changes land and moves it forward. Braddon is now a little microcity; it was literally like creating a village.” To illustrate his point, we walk into a real village – well, a food van village. It’s called The Hamlet, and if you like your food cheap and served out of a neon-glowing caravan on balmy summer evenings then this is your place. Despite finding fame as far away as The New York Times, Bulum says The Hamlet is unlikely to be there long, but that’s all part of the plan. “I’m

moving it up the road and there’s going to be a new building here called The Branx,” (another “Bulumism,” an amalgam of Braddon and The Bronx). “We play musical chairs here a fair bit. It creates interest and you reinvent your street. The key to success is reinvention, otherwise you become stale and people get bored.”

SOMETHING’S BREWING Brewer Richard Watkins can also be thanked for bringing life (and more importantly, beer) to Canberra. Watkins began as a mining engineer

ECLECTIC MIX Eclectic could certainly be the word to describe a street where, within a couple of blocks, you’ll find critically acclaimed firebrand restaurant, eightysix; an apartment building named after a crazed Japanese food grater God (Yamaroshi); another going up in the style of an Egyptian pyramid (Nibu); florists, independent jewellers, furniture makers, and the cafe that was one of the first to take a punt on this unlikely reinvention, Lonsdale Street Roasters.

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CANBERRA

Pollies’ picks Not all politicians are as boring as John Howard. Let’s face it, we wouldn’t have Canberra if it wasn’t for the pollies. We spoke to two young rising stars from both major parties and asked them for their hot tips on where to eat and drink in Canberra.

D AV I D H O W A R D (LIBER AL PART Y ) EIGHT YSIX The food is exceptional. You can choose the $86 all-you-can-eat menu option. They bring you food until you say stop, and it’s just amazing. Mode 3, Elouera & Lonsdale Streets, Braddon; eightysix.com.au

BAR ROCHFORD

the man helping change canberr a Canberra native Nik Bulum used a family plot of land in Braddon to help kickstart a new, cooler capital city scene.

before moving to Canberra to engineer better things, like beer. He worked as a brewer at Wig and Pen for 17 years before founding Bentspoke Brewing Co. with his partner, Tracy. You can find them on Mort Street, Braddon, where the beer is brewed in plain, mouthwatering view, over two levels. With a decor of vast, silver tanks, pipes and strange, gurgling sounds, it’s a unique place to sample some of the 20-plus beers on tap. “Tracy came up with the name,” says Watkins. “She said, ‘You like making bent beers and I like riding bikes.’ It seemed to fit.” The bent beers include their best-selling brew, Crankshaft, an Indian Pale Ale. It’s the perfect place for the more adventurous beer-drinker. “Fuller-flavoured beers are getting popular,” Watkins says. “Some of our beers are pretty challenging, but people aren’t afraid to give them a go.” While Watkins is a craft beer devotee, he’s no ê

New bar in the city. Great cold cuts of meat and a really trendy vibe. First Floor, 65 London Circuit, Canberra; barrochford.com

POACHERS PANTRY Canberra has one of the best wine regions in Australia. Poachers Pantry do the most extraordinary smoked meats and their wines are beautiful. It’s half-an-hour’s drive out in the country and there’s no better way to spend an afternoon. 431 Nanima Road, Hall; poacherspantry.com.au

ONA ON THE L AWNS Manuka is both trendy and gentrified. ONA’s got the best coffee, and you can sit on the lawn for breakfast. Brilliant. 4 Palmerston Lane, Griffith; onacoffee.com.au

MICHAEL PET TERSSON (L ABOR PARTY ) YOUNG AND FRISK Y The name is slang for whisky. It’s an American-style BBQ restaurant and bar in the northern suburb of Gungahlin. A really fun place. Chicken and whisky, how can you go wrong? The Marketplace, Gungahlin Place West & Efkarpidis Street, Gungahlin; youngandfrisky.com.au

HOPSCOTCH This is usually where you’ll catch me having a beer. Always busy, always social. It’s got a great vibe and it’s right in the heart of Braddon on Lonsdale Street. 5 Lonsdale Street, Braddon; hopscotchbar.com.au

THE CUPPING ROOM What can you say? So many awards for their baristas. They must be doing something right. 1/1-13 University Avenue, Canberra; thecuppingroom.com.au

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CANBERRA

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE WORLD

“It’s got the reputation for being a public service town, but it’s not anymore. Private industry and creative people are really getting a foothold.” snob. “I believe all beer is crafted, all beer has its place. The guy who slaves away making VB probably thinks he does a pretty good job, too.” Watkins says Canberra is a misunderstood beast. “It has the reputation for being a public service town, but it’s not anymore. Private industry and creative people are really getting a foothold. There was only one other bar in Braddon when we set up here in 2012. Now look at the place. Having all these places suddenly open up is great for everyone.”

MAKING WAVES But if you really want to know what’s going on in Canberra, there’s no better person to ask than Amanda Whitley. The director and founder of website HerCanberra (hercanberra.com.au) was recently crowned ACT Woman of the Year, and is another entrepreneur making unlikely waves in the inland capital. HerCanberra began as a blog in 2011, when Whitley was spending long periods at home looking after her youngest child. The website has

grown to become the definitive guide to all things Canberra, and a free quarterly print magazine has also been added. With a background in communications and many years spent working in the public service, Whitley is an example of the type of person she’s talking about when she speaks of the rise of the new entrepreneur in Canberra. “We’ve traditionally been a city of bureaucrats, who are by nature quite risk-averse,” she says. “But now we’re seeing people come in, turning Canberra into a vital, interesting place.” Whitley cites Braddon as a shining example of what can be done when

Canberra’s National Art Gallery and National Museum of Australia will always be on the must-do list for visitors. Pick of the exhibitions currently showing is the National Museum’s A History of the World in 100 Objects, on until the end of January. Over 100 historical objects, dating back two million years, are on loan from the British Museum, and the exhibition tells the story of how these objects shaped human history, in the same way that early humans shaped the first stones (on display). Head curator Michael Pickering says it’s not just an exhibition of beautiful objects, but also serves to challenge our preconceptions about what Australian history is, given its range of influences from all over the globe. “Anyone from anywhere in the world could come here and find something connects with them.” You’ll find ancient rock art, Greek statues, gold coins, the famous Head of Augustus, the Bust of Sophocles, a North American Otter Pipe (don’t make us explain it, just go see it!), various Buddha heads, a Maya Altar, a haunting statue of an Aztec Spirit (a woman who died in childbirth), an Inca Gold Llama, a 1,000-year-old Samurai Sword (very cool... and sharp), exquisitely carved ivory chess pieces, an early Victorian tea set and a tablet with some of the earliest writing ever discovered. In short, it’s not your average op shop – more like the greatest Antiques Roadshow episode ever. Not to be missed. nga.gov.au

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CANBERRA

“It used to be you couldn’t wait to get out of Canberra. Now locals are not only choosing to stay, people are choosing to move here”

Where to stay EAST HOTEL Our pick of Canberra’s hotels. It’s located right next to Manuka Oval (perfect for people travelling for sports events) and with a top bar downstairs (Joe’s Bar). The studio apartment rooms are large, spotless and cuttingedge funky. Walking distance to Kingston Foreshore and a stone’s throw from the Manuka bars and restaurants, you can even borrow a bicycle and ride along the lake into town. 69 Canberra Avenue, Kingston; easthotel.com.au

LIT TLE NATIONAL HOTEL Best in Barton, located in the parliamentary quarter and central to everything. Has a lounge and library on the upper levels that overlook parliament house. Room prices include entry to the Evo Health Club, with an indoor pool, sauna, steam-room and gym. 21 National Circuit, Barton; littlenationalhotel.com.au

AV E N U E H O T E L If Braddon is your destination, this is your hotel. Stroll to Lonsdale Street – or anywhere for that matter – from this centrally located spot. But if that’s too much of an effort, there’s a European Steakhouse downstairs, with craft beer, a huge wine list and a warm atmosphere. Couples looking to splash out can splash down in a Spa Suite, with a two-person spa bath. 80 Northbourne Avenue, Canberra; avenuehotel.com.au

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people are prepared to take a risk and start something from scratch. “Braddon is a true neighbourhood now,” she adds. “People actually live there, use the strip as their home. Braddon and NewActon (a new mixed-use precinct and home to the stunning Nishi building, which won International Project of the Year at the 2015 Building Awards in London) are the poster children for “new” Canberra. And they’ve both been a product of entrepreneurial vision.” Strangely, for a city built on policypushers and snake-oil spin doctors, Canberra has never been particularly good at talking itself up. Maybe the mocking took its toll. In his year 2000 travel book, Down Under, author Bill Bryson mocked Canberra for being so boring that even Australia’s most boring person (Prime Minister of the time, John Howard) refused to live there. And Whitley admits there used to be a certain justifiable shame in coming from Canberra. “It used to be you couldn’t wait to get out of Canberra. Now locals aren’t only choosing to stay, but people are also choosing to move here.” The HerCanberra team publishes a guide every Monday called “This Week in the Can.” Whitley says the fact it takes them hours to put the guide together shows just how much goes on. With more restaurants per capita than anywhere else in Australia, Canberra is the new foodie capital. AKIBA, on Bunda Street, won this year’s People’s Choice

Award in the Australian Financial Review’s Top 100 Restaurants. Current Australian Barista champion Hugh Kelly cut his teeth at The Cupping Room, a cafe that takes its coffee so seriously you’ll be committing a grievous faux pas if you ask for a flat white (you can still get a flat white but it’s called a “Milk-based Espresso”). Southside of Lake Burley Griffin is the suburb of Manuka, where you can dine al fresco at Italian favourite Belluci’s, or at one of Canberra’s two hidden-gem restaurants, Punjabi Hut and Taste of Bangladesh. Or bail up a politician at their favourite drinking haunt of Public (you heard it here first). Or go book shopping at Paperchain – a bookstore open till 9pm. Or catch a movie at Event Cinemas (1970s chairs, with ticket prices to match). You see, decisions are hard these days in Canberra – there’s just so much going on here. And that can only be a good thing.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Canberra from Melbourne tigerair.com.au

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PACIFIC COAST

Rediscovering the Pacific Coast

During your regular airborne commutes between Brisbane and Sydney, it’s easy to forget that far below is one of Australia’s most beautiful coastlines. Matt Shea dusts off his driving gloves and gets back in touch with its diversity, history and culture. WORDS MATT SHEA PHOTOS MATT SHEA & DESTINATION NSW

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PACIFIC COAST

rive? Why would you drive to Sydney?! This is the response of a Brisbane friend when we outline our plan to take five nights in a car to explore the Pacific Coast. It’s a good question. Why would you? Flights are cheap and frequent. The airports in both cities are easy to navigate. Train links have been laid. Uber is now available. Such ease of use makes the idea of loading up your gear (kids, if you’ve got them) and hitting the road seem positively archaic. A few days later, the first answer to the question turns out to be just an hour and a half south of Brisbane, at the Border Crossing Lookout. Our tyres haven’t even touched the monstrous M1 arterial that shadows the coast out of Queensland’s capital. Instead, we’ve gone due south via the Mount Lindesay Highway, cutting through Canungra and onto the Nerang-Murwillumbah Road. Climbing this vertiginous route through deeply scooped, primordial valleys, we’re glad for our borrowed Isuzu MU-X four-wheel drive, which hauls us towards the border – the very highest point of the road. The lookout sits on the edge of an almighty caldera that, in the millions of years since its final eruption, has seeded lush, green farmland. It’s a stunning spot, the cities of Brisbane and the Gold Coast obscured beyond line after line of

dramatic rocky formations. Behind us, a couple of day-trippers from the Coast gape in wonder. “It’s phenomenal country,” one of them says. “We had no idea this was here.” Why would they? The carloads of families who used to pick their way along the M1 and A1 from Brisbane to Sydney now take to the skies, leaving the highway to the road trains that overnight run between the two cities. And the road itself has changed. Once a twisting, two-lane blacktop,

HITTING THE ROAD ALLOWS YOU TO EXPLORE THE HIDDEN TOWNSHIPS AND BACK ROADS OF AN AREA YOU MIGHT OTHERWISE OVERLOOK unconvinced of its own status as a major east-coast arterial, now it’s for the most part a surging dual-lane carriageway, bypassing the small towns that once defined it. Rediscovering those towns, via twisting byroads and lanes, is very much like finding a new country in your own backyard. ê

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Tyalgum is one such town. We tiptoe our way down the NSW side of the border towards this end-of-the-line village with a talent for reinvention. Once a centre for forestry, and then later a dairy town fallen on hard times, it was not so many years ago all but deserted. Now, though, it’s in the midst of flushed renaissance, its high street populated by cafes, shops and day spas. The townspeople are good at reinventing themselves also. Everyone here, it seems, is from somewhere else. There’s Beth, for example, the Estonian expat who helps run Flutterbies Cafe (23-25 Coolman Street; flutterbies.com.au), or Oliver, an Englishman who opened the Anthropocosmic Apothecary (21 Coolman Street; anap.com.au), a cutting-edge day spa that’s the equal of anything in the city. We dwell over lunch and coffee at Flutterbies, before reluctantly slipping onto the old ridgerunning Tweed Valley Way towards

“Rediscovering bypassed rural towns is like finding a new country in your own backyard” Bangalow, Byron Bay and Ballina. Just south of Bangalow, the Macadamia Castle (Hinterland Way, Knockrow; macadamiacastle.com. au), is a celebrated Pacific Coast destination forever changed by the

highway’s bypasses. Once prized by weary travellers for its pancakes and coffee, owner Tony Gilding has pivoted the Castle to a local destination for the many families moving into the area. Now, Gilding says, it’s the animal park out back that’s the biggest attraction. On the weekend it’s a buzzy, welcoming place to spend an afternoon, with all sorts of local wildlife – emus, wombats and kangaroos – for kids to interact with. Gilding hands us some locally grown macadamias, which help keep ê

A H A I R Y- N O S E D R E S I D E N T O F T H E MACADAMIA CASTLE ANIMAL PARK IN KNOCKROW. AND THE WRITER VISITS T YALGUM, ABOVE.

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PACIFIC COAST away the hunger pangs until we pull into Ballina for the night.

COASTING ALONG The next morning, we stick to the coast as we make our way towards Yamba. The focus of a significant sea change in recent years, with new suburbs dominating its western fringe, the neatly laid-out main village, packed in behind a steep headland, remains a beguiling destination. We climb the hill to the Pacific Hotel (18 Pilot Street, Yamba; pacifichotelyamba.com.au), an honest old lodge and pub that for 82 years has held a prime position overlooking Yamba Beach. It’s a grey afternoon, but sipping a coffee or beer while looking out across the ocean is a special kind of bliss. That evening we head a few kilometres inland to Maclean. Hugging the Clarence River, this iconic sugar town, with its grand old buildings and surrounding hills dotted with cottages, has been undergoing a slow transformation into a centre for tourism. We park for the night at Kingstudio (105 River Street, MacLean; kingstudio.com.au). An impressive little gallery owned by artists Malcolm King and Julie McKenzie, it’s also a quaint B&B that – oddly – began life as a mayoral residence down the road in Grafton.

ART OF THE ROAD TRIP The artworks on display at Kingstudio gallery in Maclean. Above: the borrowed Isuzu makes light work of the coastal roads.

We head in that direction the following morning – following Lawrence Road along the Clarence – before descending back towards the Coffs Coast for lunch. A midway point between Brisbane and Sydney, it’s another area undergoing an immense transformation. We head to a Sunday communal lunch at the iconic Guru Nanak Sikh Temple (River Street), just off the old highway, where local councillor John Arkan explains some of the changes. “These hills over here,” he points to the ridges that rise like anthills almost straight out of the sea, creating Coffs’ unusual microclimate. “They used to be covered in bananas. Now, though, blueberries. There’s a blueberry boom, and it’s having a huge impact on the coast here.” Looking up, you can see it for yourself, the peaks covered in webs of white netting to protect the prized berries. Arkan is a farmer by background, but also a proud Sikh, his family having lived in the area since emigrating from India in the late 19th century. At last count there were 2,500 Sikhs living in the Coffs ê Harbour City Council area; it’s

Where to stay R AMADA HOTEL AND SUITES The Ramada is pitch-perfect four-star accommodation – nothing more and absolutely nothing less – right in the heart of Ballina. And you know what you’re getting with a Ramada property: crisp, well-appointed rooms and excellent, unfussy service. The approachable Point restaurant and the winsome Richmond River location help seal the deal. 2 Martin Street, Ballina; ramadaballinabyron.com.au

OPAL COVE RESORT Opal Cove has existed for close to three decades, and some of the rooms in the handsome main building are honest but beginning to show their age. The secret, though, is to book one of the beachfront apartments. They’re new, beautifully appointed and competitively priced. The hotel’s location, huge range of activities for kids and exceptional staff do the rest. Opal Boulevard, Coffs Harbour; opalcove.com.au

BIG4 SUNSHINE SOUTH WEST ROCKS A stay at Big4 Sunshine is everything a typical campsite holiday isn’t. This sprawling, bush-lined park features generously sized, modern cabins, while some of the caravan sites come with en-suite facilities. Activities for the kids range from an ingenious jumping pillow to the brilliant water park – they’ll never get bored. 161 Phillip Drive, South West Rocks; big4southwestrocks.com.au

C R O W N E P L A Z A H U N T E R VA L L E Y Crowne Plaza in the Hunter Valley will always be enjoyable – such is the brand’s classy capacity for getting the basics right. But along with that comes a challenging 18-hole golf course, an exceptional restaurant and numerous accommodation options. There’s even an on-site brewery. 430 Wine Country Drive, Lovedale; crowneplazahuntervalley.com.au

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PACIFIC COAST

a microcosm of Australian multiculturalism. It means Arkan can give us a hot tip for dinner: Touch of North India (396a Harbour Drive; touchofnorthindia.com.au), which is in Coffs Harbour proper and serves up curries much better than most we’ve had in the big smoke

SOUTH BOUND Our route south from Coffs the following day takes us back towards the NSW hinterland and Bellingen. One of the prettiest towns on the entire coast, this former logging and dairy centre’s gently ascending high street with its ancient, heritage-listed buildings boasts an exceptional clutch of cafes, galleries, bars and boutiques. It’s a perfect spring morning, so we stop by HYDE (62 Hyde Street), grab some lattes and wander the strip. The decreasing latitude is starting to count as we head further down the highway towards South West Rocks.

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“The dusks are longer, and it makes our drive into South West Rocks one of the prettiest of the trip, as we pick our way along the Macleay River” The dusks are longer here, and it makes our drive into town one of the prettiest of the trip, the inland floodplains coloured orange as we pick our way along the Macleay River. We share a drink at Arakoon National Park overlooking the town’s cove, coloured a luminescent purple in the fading light, before debriefing at the handsome Seabreeze Beach Hotel (Corner of Livingstone Street and Prince of Wales Avenue; seabreezebeachhotel.com.au) with some highly evolved pub food. Our final couple of days involve some of the longest but most rewarding drives of the entire trip. Heading out of South West Rocks, we stop in at nearby Frederickton to visit another icon now bypassed by the highway: Fredo Pies (73 Macleay Street,

Frederickton; fredopies.com.au). “A few years back you couldn’t park within two kilometres of this place,” laughs owner Oliver Cooke, as we settle in at an outside picnic table. Now, though – and first thing in the morning – the shop is quiet. It’s bizarre when Cooke points to

PACIFIC COAST

the silent, suburban-looking road behind our picnic table, saying it was once the Pacific Highway. Still, as we get up from our coffee and pies, the tourists filing in. Next, our route towards the Hunter Valley has us detouring via The Lakes Way, snaking through some of the most dramatic scenery of the coast. Hitting you one after the other are the ginormous gulfs of Wallis, Smiths and Myall Lakes, appearing like magic out of the parting woods. When we finally roll into Brokenwood Wines (401-427 McDonalds Road; brokenwood.com.au) on the western side of the Hunter, we’re well and truly ready to sample some prized semillon and shiraz. This iconic winery is honest and unfussy, dedicated to getting its core varietals absolutely right. We roll out again with a few extra bottles loaded into the boot of the Isuzu, the winemakers sending us across the road to subterranean Cellar Restaurant (Hunter Valley Gardens Village, Broke Road; the-cellar-restaurant.com.au) for some exceptional French-inspired

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TO MIX UP YOUR TRANSPORT OPTIONS YOU C AN ALWAY S TAKE A HOT-AIR BALL OON OVER THE HUNTER VALLEY cuisine. We sleep well that night. Good thing, too, as our final day in Newcastle – a steel town reborn into something almost unrecognisable – is a busy one. You might look like a loon on Newcastle’s Famous Tram tour (Queens Wharf Tower, Wharf Road; famous-tram.com.au), but it turns out to be an almost essential, hour-long primer on the city and its twisting, turning history. We then explore the CBD before our final meal at the Grain Store (64-66 Scott Street; grainstorenewcastle.com.au), an old brewery warehouse reinvented as a well-heeled craft beer joint. Getting back on the highway in the afternoon light, motoring the final couple of hours towards Sydney Airport, we double take at each other. Why not just drive back to Brisbane? I mean, why wouldn’t we?

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane from six destinations and to Sydney from eight destinations; tigerair.com.au

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Tigerair launches new summer menu Great value and choice are on the menu as the weather heats up

Tigerair increases presence in Brisbane The low-cost carrier is beefing up its Queensland operations in response to consumer demand

igerair Australia’s Brisbane base is set to receive a third A320 aircraft to be based in the Queensland capital from March 2017. The extra aircraft will create 50 additional jobs and allow for new services from Brisbane. Two new routes have been announced between Brisbane and Perth and between Brisbane and Whitsunday Coast. From 1 June 2017, Tigerair will operate the only low-cost services between Brisbane and Perth, with a standard schedule of four weekly return services, increasing up to six times weekly in peak periods such as school holidays. Four weekly return services between Brisbane and the Whitsunday Coast will commence from 23 March 2017. On top of the new routes, Tigerair is also adding services to a number of its existing popular Queensland routes, including four additional weekly return services between Brisbane and Cairns,

two additional return services between Sydney and Whitsunday Coast Airport and a weekly return service between Brisbane and Adelaide, all commencing from late March 2017. Tigerair Australia CEO Rob Sharp says the announcement is significant for Queensland tourism and the economy. “The sunshine state is an integral part of our network with over 70 per cent of all Tigerair domestic services already touching Queensland,” he said. “The new services announced will deliver almost 225,000 additional visitor seats through Brisbane Airport annually. This is in addition to the almost 1.3 million visitor seats Tigerair carried through Brisbane Airport in the 12 months up until the end of September 2016.” Fares between Brisbane and Perth will be regularly available from $189 and fares between Brisbane and Whitsundays from $79; check tigerair.com.au for terms and conditions.

Tigerair Australia has launched its new summer Tiger Bites in-flight menu, once again catering for a broad range of dietary needs and featuring the return of popular year-round favourites as well as a number of new additions to cater for every budget and taste. Tigerair Australia Head of Communications Vanessa Regan said the new menu is designed with value and choice in mind. “Our onboard menu continues to provide a range of delicious hot and cold menu items and caters for a broad range of dietary preferences, including gluten-free, vegan, dairy and nut-free options,” Regan said. “If you pre-order before you fly by booking your menu choice online, you have the added advantage of being served first.”

refuel with our tasty runway favourites!

meals served on tray tables, not on wooden boards, in tin cans or fancy bowls. crockery is not provided at 30,000 ft.

please do not remove this menu from the aircraft – there will be other customers who are hungry today.

we’d love to hear more about your flight today and anything you’d like to see featured in our menu, please email tigershop@tigerair.com.au

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TIGERAIR NEWS

School to Work program takes flight Melbourne Storm and Tigerair help two aspiring flight attendants reach their goals Melbourne Storm’s School to Work Program, in conjunction with Tigerair, has helped to give two aspiring flight attendants an unforgettable experience. Shkita and Jebrina experienced firsthand what their dream job would be like, spending a day in the life of a Tigerair flight attendant. The girls were taken on a tour of Tigerair and got a unique, behind-the-scenes look at how the airline operates. Their experience was a part of the NRL School to Work Program, an education and employment program that utilises the positive profile of the game of rugby league to support and encourage young Indigenous Australians to stay at school, get a job, and be a legend for themselves, their families and their communities. The program received an international award recently at the annual Beyond Sport Awards in London.

Tigerair Australia turns nine The low-cost carrier has come a long way since it first started operations Tigerair Australia is celebrating its ninth birthday since domestic services first commenced in November 2007. As well as celebrating with a special $9 fare sale in November, Tigerair Australia Head of Communications Vanessa Regan pointed out that this is a significant milestone for the airline that continues to soar to new heights. “Tigerair Australia has come such a long way in nine years and we’re

very proud to be Australia’s most on-time low-cost airline, coupled with the lowest cancellation rate of all the major domestic airlines, since January 2015,” Regan said. “The past year has been a significant one for Tigerair Australia. We’ve flown well over 21 million passengers (nearly the population of Australia), and introduced six new routes, including our first short-haul international services to Bali.”

“Tigerair Australia has come such a long way in nine years and we’re very proud to be Australia’s most on-time low-cost airline, coupled with the lowest cancellation rate of all the major domestic airlines, since January 2015" 102

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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

Beaches

Summer

The warmer weather is here and we have all the best things to do on the Tigerair network

BY CONNOR MCLEOD

Bells Beach

Cottlesloe Beach

This rugged surf beach on the Victorian coast is located near the beginning of the Great Ocean Road and is home to the Rip Curl Easter Pro, where surfers battle five-metre waves. Take the steep stairway down to the sand, and don’t forget to stop in at Torquay on the way home. Melbourne ripcurl.com.au

One of the most popular sandy spots in the west, this picture-perfect beach is halfway between Perth and Fremantle and is renowned as a chilled destination for a Sunday session, a surf or just a day out with the family. Head to the Cottesloe Beach Hotel to grab a drink or just watch the beachlovers go past. Perth cottesloebeachhotel.com.au

Bondi Beach One of Sydney’s most popular city beaches, this is the ideal spot if you like your surf and sand with a side of latte. Hang out at the beach, take a swim in the ocean pool or have cocktails overlooking the beach at sunset in Icebergs Dining Room and Bar (1 Notts Avenue, Bondi Beach; icebergs.com.au). Sydney bondibeach.com

Park Beach Coffs Harbour’s main surf beach is popular with swimmers, surfers and the local area’s contingent of beach fisherman. The best thing to do is bring a picnic down to the adjacent Park Beach Reserve, where families can enjoy the sun and make use of the barbecue facilities. Coffs Harbour coffscoast.com.au

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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S U M M E R Ice cream Gelato Messina

Whisk Creamery

Zero Gradi

Regularly voted the best gelato in the country, Gelato Messina has 40 flavours of gelato with 35 regular tastes and five regularly changing “specials”. Winning combinations like pear and rhubarb, yoghurt and berry, or pandan and coconut sorbet all scream summer. Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane gelatomessina.com

At Whisk Creamery in Perth you can have soft-serve gelato and frozen yoghurts made with super-fresh ingredients, or have them added to an inspired dessert like the Caramel Sandwich or Smashed Pavlova. Also a hit are the gourmet shakes, though some, like the Strawberry in Wonderland, tread very close to “freakshake” territory. Perth whiskcreamery.com.au

You expect great gelato from Johnny Di Francesco, the man who produces one of Melbourne’s best pizza at 400 Gradi, and that’s what you get. At the neighbouring dessert station Zero Gradi you can try wild berry, peanut butter and Nutella or a gelato that Di Franceso has based on his famous margarita pizza. Melbourne 400gradi.com.au

Gaya Gelato The Bali weather screams ice cream all year round and one of the best places to grab a cone full of chill-out is Gaya Gelato, which has several parlours across the island including at Echo Beach, Ubud and Samasta. Try local flavours like sirsak (soursop), tamarillo and lemon grass. Bali gayagelato.com

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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S U M M E R Beer gardens Portsea Hotel

Forrest Brewing Company

Walt & Burley

This historic Mornington Peninsula watering hole has a top spot right on Port Phillip Bay where punters can take a stroll along the beach and wind up in the outdoor garden area of the Portsea for a quiet drink. Melbourne portseahotel.com.au

For an out-of-the-way beer garden, take the short drive up from Melbourne to the Forest Brewing Company in Otway. This boutique brewery has made its home in the old general store in Forrest where they get weekenders, cyclists and locals all milling around in the large beer garden. Melbourne forrestbrewing.com.au

Sit outside with a view of the Kingston Foreshore at this Canberra gastropub that offers some of the best views in town of Lake Burley Griffin and the lively waterfront. Hungry? Try the chilli beef burger, spiced buffalo wings or jalapeno poppers. Canberra waltandburley.com.au

Walks Coffs Harbour Jetty

Crystal Cascades

Spit Bridge to Manly walk

Hindmarsh Falls walk

Take an evening stroll along the jetty precinct in Coffs, where shops, restaurants and bars are gathered around the marina end of Jetty Beach. The old wooden jetty is the perfect spot for a romantic promenade, or you can drop a cheeky evening line in to see if the fish are biting, then head to a restaurant for a top meal. Coffs Harbour

This is one of the secret spots for Cairns locals. You have to drive a short way before walking down to this secret swimming hole in the middle of the lush tropical jungle. Several pools feed into the main swimming area while you are protected from the sun by the huge canopy of trees. Shhhh, don’t tell anyone. Cairns

This walk starts just behind the Spit Bridge in Sydney’s northern suburbs and winds it way along the rugged coastline of the famous harbour, past Aboriginal rock carvings, hidden artists’ colonies and million-dollar housing. The walk winds up at Manly Beach, where you can grab a bite to eat or cool off by diving into the famous waves. Sydney

Just an hour’s drive south of Adelaide is the step-off point to the short summer walk to Hindmarsh Falls, where waters cascade down the mountainside into a number of pools. Follow the track from the upper carpark to the lookout, or head down further to the falls themselves. Adelaide

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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S U M M E R

THE SPOT

The Blue Mountains

hile this mountainous area, just an hour west of Sydney, is best known for the Three Sisters rock formation and the wintry Christmas in July festival, it is a great place to visit in summer. The mountains offer a cooler alternative to Sydney and have plenty of summer walking and hiking, as well as cool mountain pools to swim in. Buy local produce at the Blackheath Growers Market (Gardiner Crescent, Blackheath; facebook.com/ katoombagrowers), stop for a high tea at the recently renovated

Hydro Majestic Hotel (52-88 Great Western Highway, Medlow Bath; hydromajestic.com.au) or visit the Gingerbread House (56 Waratah Street, Katoomba; gbhousekatoomba.com), a whimsical shop, based in an old church, selling plenty of gingerbread – or take home a box of boutique Josophan’s chocolates for the adults. Families have to visit Scenic World (Violet Street & Cliff Drive, Katoomba; scenicworld.com.au), which has one of the most fantastic views in the mountains, suspended high atop the Skyway or the Cableway, the steepest

aerial cable car in the Southern Hemisphere. On the Walkway experience you can take a cool stroll through Jurassic-era forest and then take a break from all the fun in the Terrace Cafe. And in April next year, the Sculptures at Scenic World will return with artists making sculptures to be placed in the Blue Mountains forests. After returning to Sydney, take the scenic Bells Line of Road that weaves its way through Bilpin, where you can try the Bilpin apple cider (bilpincider.com).

Family

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Zoo Twilights

The Boat Pool

Dawn Fraser Bath

Grab a blanket and see some great bands with the kids when you catch Paul Dempsey or Killing Heidi on the lawns of Melbourne Zoo, you can also buy ready-made picnic baskets to save you any hassles at home. Melbourne until March; zootwilights.org.au

On Brisbane’s South Bank the boat pool has had a renovation and is ready for kids. This outdoor pool and the neighbouring Streets Beach is a great place for families to cool off in summer, and there are also plenty of restaurants to try. Brisbane visitbrisbane.com.au

In a city with plenty of bathing options, the Dawn Fraser Baths at Leichhardt Park are a charming throwback to earlier times. Built in the 1880s, the elegant heritage-listed building is a great spot for a family dip. Sydney lpac.nsw.gov.au

THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S U M M E R

Tiki bars

The LuWoW We’re calling it for LuWow as the best, highest-concept den of tikiness in Australia (and yes “tikiness” is a word). From the curling squid tentacles coming out of the ceiling to the shared drinks so large they come with a plastic crocodile swimming in them, this is a fantastic tropical getaway. And the adjacent bandroom has some great live music in amongst all the rum cocktails and even a stray velociraptor. Melbourne theluwow.com

Grandma’s Bar There is a bit less crazy going on at Grandma’s, a retro cocktail joint in a basement in the Sydney CBD. The drinks here, tiki or otherwise, are amazing and you can’t go wrong with foregoing a menu and just letting the bartenders do their thing for you – but try the ultimate mai tai, as it comes to the table on fire. Sydney grandmasbarsydney.com.au

Hula Bula Bar The fantastically kitsch Hula Bula bar in Perth has a huge bamboo bar, louche animal print booths and glowing tiki lanterns – everything you need for a tikitastic (also a word) night out. Keep an eye on the website for theme nights like the great vintage tunes of Swingin’ Saturdays. Perth hulabulabar.com

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Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 35 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Enjoy an authentic Japanese dining experience.

JAPANESE RESTAURANT

KENZAN.COM.AU | +61 (0)3 9654 8933

Theatre Restaurant presents..

The

X Files

asty 3-Course meal throughout the fun-filled night.

nviting Witchy-inspired Cocktails & a Dungeon Disco to dance the night away.

Hilariously

unny musical comedy satire based on the hit TV Show. Join Mulder & Scully as they try to stop a terrible trio of Witches from taking over the world. Featuring guest appearances* from The Kardashians, Matthew McConaughey, Justin Bieber & Many More.

Bookings Essential: 03 9329 9850 84 Dudley St, West Melbourne

www.witchesinbritches.com.au ‘Witches In Britches Theatre Restaurant’ *ACTUAL APPEARANCES MAY NOT BE ACTUAL CELEBRITIES.

@witchesinbritches

the tale end

Travel is all about stories Please send your travel photos to us at tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au or #tigerairaustralia A L AYA K U T A , B A L I

PUR A TIRTA EMPUL , BALI A short distance from Ubud, Pura Tirta Empul is a small water temple in the rural areas of Bali. If you go early enough, you can avoid the crowds and see the locals praying and bathing for purification. JOLYON BIRD

Had a wonderfully quirky stay at the Alaya Resort in Kuta (alayahotels.com), where the artwork in the lobby is a huge silver F1 car. The design is not as clichĂŠd as other Bali resorts, but the local Indonesian food is amazing. Try the Balinese fish curry.

CONNER MCLEOD

2 SOUTH KUTA , BALI I spent an amazing morning at the Tea Tree Spa at the Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali (barunabali.holidayinnresorts.com). They have open-air treatment rooms that look straight out onto the beach, and such amazing detail like these bowls filled with intricate floating flower decorations â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hard to get up the energy to leave the resort. SARAH THOMAS

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Heading to Melbourne? When you land at T4, take off with SkyBus. Express to Melbourne CBD only $19 one way.

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