tigertales
TAKE ME AWAY
Australia | Jun-Jul 2016
RHYME& REASON
➔ Hip hop artists talk about the streets that inspire their songs
N AT I O N A L T R E A S U R E
W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S
BALI GUIDE
Discover Victoria’s Budj Bim National Park
Two very different travellers visit the Gold Coast
Expats reveal the three best regions on the island
Escape the everyday... Let our friends at Tigerair look after you in the air and we’ll look after you on the ground. Tigerair guests can book now for a 4 or more day rental and receive 15% off the base rate at participating locations. *Terms and conditions apply.
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To book, visit a Europcar counter or call 13 13 90 and quote TIGER. For online bookings visit www.europcar.com.au/tiger * Vehicles subject to availability. Valid at participating locations across Australia and New Zealand. Valid for booking dates from 01/06/2016 – 31/08/2016. Rental dates 1/06/2016 – 31/10/2016. Blackout dates where offer is unavailable are 25 June to 24 July and 17 September to 9th October 2016. Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotion. Minimum length of rental must be 4 days to receive this offer. Days are based on a 24 hour rental period. Discount of 15% applies to base rate (time and kilometres) of rental only. Visit www.europcar.com.au/tiger for full Terms and Conditions.
‘‘We choose
our own adventures.’’ The Wilson
I love Winter in the Whitsundays! ...last year it was a Tuesday in July and 23c
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WELCOME ON BOARD
Welcome on board Tigerair continues to go from strength to strength
W
e know our customers want great value fares and reliable and on-time flights with friendly service. In the 12 months leading up to the end of March 2016, Tigerair Australia was the most punctual low-cost carrier in Australia. We also understand the frustration when flights are cancelled and have worked hard to keep these to an absolute minimum. Tigerair recorded the lowest cancellation rate of all major domestic airlines during the same time period and was three times more reliable than our key competitor on like-for-like routes. We have also continued to introduce innovations to make flying Tigerair easier than ever before. Tigerair Australia recently announced that it is one of eight Asia Pacific airlines to form "Value Alliance", the world’s first pan-regional low-cost carrier alliance. Value Alliance, comprising Tigerair Australia, Tigerair Singapore, Scoot, Cebu Pacific, Juju Air, Nok Air, NokScoot, and Vanilla Air, offers customers the convenience of viewing, selecting and booking multi-destination itineraries at the best-available rate from any of the alliance partners in a single online transaction. Thanks to this partnership, customers can also continue to enjoy the full suite
“Tigerair Australia has continued to introduce innovations to make flying with us easier than ever” of ancillary choices they’ve come to appreciate from low-cost airlines – such as seat and meal selection – across all airlines in the one itinerary. The Value Alliance provides Tigerair customers with great value fares throughout Asia Pacific and access to one-third of the world. New technology will be available on the Tigerair website in coming months to access the Value Alliance fares, so watch this space. Another recent development is the news that Velocity Frequent Flyer members are now able to redeem points on Tigerair Australia’s network. Velocity members can use their points as part or full payment for Tigerair base fares, optional extras and taxes. People often want to know how to secure the best-value fares with
Tigerair and there really is no secret. The best piece of advice is to plan ahead and book early as fares increase as demand grows and the travel date draws nearer. To stay up to date with all our latest news, special deals and competitions, keep posted to the Tigerair website, sign up to our free e-newsletter and "like" our Tigerair Australia Facebook page. Thank you for once again choosing to fly Tigerair and we look forward to welcoming you on board again soon.
Rob Sharp, Tigerair Australia CEO
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CONTENTS
Destination directory Inside this issue… wherever you're going, we've got you covered
74 DE S T IN AT ION G OL D C O A S T
F E AT U R E
living l a vida bali
DU S T IN
A dad who took his two sons to explore all that glitters on the Gold Coast.
weekend warriors ONE
A guide to the island's three hottest spots.
DESTINATION,
TWO
DIFFERENT
ADVENTURES
P HOE BE
Brisbane-based Phoebe (of Little Grey Box blog) gets healthy on the Goldie.
BALI
C ty stories
CITY STORIES
BALI
Living la vida Bali
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PHOTO DANIEL BOUD
Hip hop is street music, influenced by urban life. Matt Shea asks three musicians about the places that inspire them...
A
ustralia’s cities are changing. Once known for their endless urban sprawl, in more recent years town planners have refocused their attention inward. The result has been higher-density living and finetuned development approvals, allowing for an influx of residents and small businesses. It’s a move that has seen inner suburbs across Australia come alive with creativity, as new communities build themselves around galleries, cafes, shops and bars. Watching it all have been some of our best hip hop artists – an art form often defined by its focus on community and powers of observation. We asked some of the best musicians from around the country to reflect on their towns, what’s changed for the better, and how that’s influenced their creativity.
CHIPPENDALE, SYDNEY OKENYO Zindzi Okenyo knows Chippendale – which is more than can be said for many Sydneysiders. The small inner-city suburb, wedged in-between Central train station and the University of Sydney, has long been overlooked by both trendsetters and real estate agents. Even One Central Park – the handsome mixed-use development that now towers on its eastern fringe – has had
only a limited impact on the warehouses and ancient brick apartments that cluster around Abercrombie Street. For Okenyo, it’s home. And that’s saying something, given all the places she’s laid down roots. Born in Adelaide to a Kenyan father and Australian mother who specialised in teaching English as a second language, much of her early life was spent travelling to remote communities in South Australia and the Northern Territory. That was followed by stints living in Adelaide, Queensland and then Hobart, before Okenyo moved to Sydney as an 18-year-old to study at the National Institute of Dramatic Art. “I lived in Newtown for about four years,” she says. “But I’ve been in Chippendale since 2010, so this is really my home.” Okenyo made her name as an actor, best known for her work on stage and in smaller roles on Australian television (as well as a part-time gig hosting Play School). But more recently it has been in music where the 30-year-old is having an impact. Okenyo’s songs shift from right-angled trip-hop to slick indie pop and back again, but they’re always rooted in a swooning, arched-brow style of vocal delivery that’s one part rap ê music and two parts soul.
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F E AT U R E
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Weekend warriors
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Many Australians fall so in love with Bali that they never leave. Ian Lloyd Neubauer gets the lowdown on three very different parts of Bali where expats choose to work, rest and play.
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Two takes on the Gold Coast
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F E AT U R E
cit y stories
F E AT U R E
going with the flow
Hip hop artists on the streets that inspire them
The Indigenous stories of Budj Bim in Victoria.
THE POINTY END
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46 BUDJ BIM
BUDJ BIM
Going with the flow
THE POINTY END
Get dark in Tassie this winter
The Tyrendarra lava flow outside of Melbourne is home to an engineering feat older than the Egyptian pyramids. Paul Chai travels to Budj Bim, a site with such Indigenous importance it looks set to be our next World Heritage site.
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PHOTO LAKE SURPRISE, BUDJ BIM NATIONAL PARK BY GO WILD IMAGES
W WORDS PAUL CHAI
Have a Sunday session in Perth.
57
hen the colder months come to our most southerly state things take a darker turn. To keep Hobart, and Tasmania, a hot destination even in winter the Dark Mofo festival was born, taking the art and culture from the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) out onto the street. Last year, there were giant instruments spewing fire, blood-red fountains and winter solstice celebrations. It even went beyond the traditional home of Hobart creating a pagan forest feast in the Cradle Mountain region where guests drank shots
of pig’s blood and dined on raw deer heart, while dancers in antlers (and little else) prowled around the venerable rooms of Cradle Mountain Lodge. Celebrating both ancient and contemporary mythologies, Mona’s midwinter festival Dark Mofo is an annual pilgrimage south to embrace the dark through large-scale public art, food, film, music, light and noise. We asked Dark Mofo’s head of programming, Lucy Forge, to delve deep into the dark corners of Hobart to shed some light on some hidden black diamonds. ê
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Have a Sunday session at Elizabeth Quay
WORDS TANIA CONNOLLY
T
ake advantage of the clear blue skies and gentle breezes in Perth by winding down the weekend at one of the city’s newest precincts, Elizabeth Quay. The Lucky Shag Waterfront Bar has fast become one of the busiest, but most laid-back, beer gardens around as it sits proudly on Barrack Street Jetty, offering uninterrupted, panoramic views of the Swan River. On a lazy Sunday afternoon, while overlooking the glistening vista, you may catch sight of a gondola, a graceful black swan or a curious dolphin, just metres from your table. Predominantly a walk-in restaurant, on Sundays the Lucky Shag Bar draws a couple of hundred
patrons, clad casually in shorts and thongs, and in the late afternoon the DJ arrives and raises the volume of his mash-ups – but not so loud that conversations are drowned out. They're here for the pub grub, the chat and the sunset over the river. Acoustic acts entertain the crowds during the week as the popular eatery is open for lunch and dinner from 11am each day, with the kitchen closing at 10pm on Sundays. Sunday sessions abound in Perth, the city that invented this noble tradition. There's a laidback defiance in a Perth Sunday afternoon, where drinkers flock to the seaside bars to make sure their weekend ends with a bang and not a whimper. ê
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Advertising National Advertising Manager Jamie-Lee Golden (02) 8188 3665 jamie-lee@citrusmedia.com.au Commercial Manager Joe Bird (02) 9186 9104 jbird@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestarweb
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Explore Tassie's dark side
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Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Art Director Jon Gregory Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott Cover photo Okenyo, by Daniel Boud
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Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Publisher Steve Maidens (02) 8188 3670 steve@citrusmedia.com.au Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au
© 2016 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder. Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.
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15
minutes to City
Central Museum St James Circular Quay Wynyard Town Hall
THE POINTY END eê is d
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THE POINTY END
T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O GOOD FOOD MONTH
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There's a party for your taste buds at the Brisbane Times’ annual Good Food Month. Restaurants will be hosting special dinners and the Night Noodle Markets will be back. Brisbane, July; brisbane. goodfoodmonth.com
FOOD
6 H U O N VA L L E Y MID - W IN T E R F E S T I VA L Hosted by Willie Smith’s cider, this is a quirky festival of dress-ups, pagan partying and “wassailing” – a kind of street theatre that's supposed to wake up the apple trees and ensure a good harvest. There will also be music from Ungus Ungus Ungus, a self-described “psychedelic, gypsy, carnie-hop” band. Hobart, July 15-17; huonvalleymidwinterfest.com.au
DARWIN ART TR AIL
PARONELL A PARK There's a festival atmosphere every night at Paronella Park, Cairns’ secret castle. The Darkness Falls night tours give you after-hours access to the park, created by Jose Paronella, and the castle at its centre is flooded with moody lighting. Cairns, selected nights; paronellapark.com.au
FESTIVAL
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3 ARTS
4 MOTORCYCLE MUSTER Celebrating 15 years this year, the Cairns Motorcycle Muster will take the charity motorcycle ride to Mission Beach via the Atherton Tablelands. Starting in Cairns, the bikers will be raising money for the Cairns Hospital Emergency Department, so if you are in town head to the start. Cairns, June 18-19; motorcyclemuster.com.au
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The Manjimup Truffle Kerfuffle is a celebration of one of the world’s most expensive foods. A party surrounding the start of the black truffle season the Kerfuffle has local markets, cooking demonstrations, and a truffle hunt. “The festival has a hands-on and adventurous atmosphere,” says Max Brearley, Truffle Kerfuffle director. Perth, June 24-26; trufflekerfuffle.com.au
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It’s art season in the Top End. Take a self-drive tour to meet, talk to and learn about Darwin’s most talented artists. These artists open their galleries to the public on the third Sunday of each month. Darwin; darwinarttrail.com.au
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TRUFFLE KERFUFFLE
RIDE
S Y D N E Y F IL M F E S T I VA L Kicking off with anticipated local film Goldstone from director Ivan Sen, this annual festival of film is even going virtual reality with a special VR program for the first time. Says Festival Director Nashen Moodley: “In 2016 the Festival will present 244 films from 60 countries including 25 World Premieres.” Sydney, June 8-19; sff.org.au
PL ANNING ON GOING? If you're heading to one of these events, send us your pictures
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THE POINTY END
Get dark in Tassie this winter
WORDS PAUL CHAI
W
hen the colder months come to our most southerly state things take a darker turn. To keep Hobart, and Tasmania, a hot destination even in winter the Dark Mofo festival was born, taking the art and culture from the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona) out onto the street. Last year, there were giant instruments spewing fire, blood-red fountains and winter solstice celebrations. It even went beyond the traditional home of Hobart creating a pagan forest feast in the Cradle Mountain region where guests drank shots
of pig’s blood and dined on raw deer heart, while dancers in antlers (and little else) prowled around the venerable rooms of Cradle Mountain Lodge. Celebrating both ancient and contemporary mythologies, Mona’s midwinter festival Dark Mofo is an annual pilgrimage south to embrace the dark through large-scale public art, food, film, music, light and noise. We asked Dark Mofo’s head of programming, Lucy Forge, to delve deep into the dark corners of Hobart to shed some light on some hidden black diamonds. ê
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THE POINTY END “Dark Mofo is all about discovering and teasing out the adventures that can only happen once the sun has set and things that have been hiding in shadows can emerge,” Lucy says. “It provides a heady mix of confronting, exhilarating, reflective and wild experiences that echo the bacchanalian, pagan rituals of the past. There's no better setting for a festival like Dark Mofo than Hobart.” Dark Mofo 2016 runs June 10-21 in and around Hobart, featuring precincts including the Museum of Old and New Art, Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery, Mona’s industrial public art playground Dark Park, the Winter Feast precinct, and more. For more information on Dark Mofo, which runs from June 10-21, visit darkmofo.net.au.
Here are Lucy’s pick of things to do when the lights go out... New Sydney Hotel For a classic wintry pub experience the New Sydney is home to a big log fire, friendly bar staff, excellent beer on tap, tasty food and a convivial atmosphere. Just be careful not to have one too many and fall into the flames. 87 Bathurst St, Hobart; newsydneyhotel.com.au
Aloft Floating above the city's waterfront at the end of Brooke Street Pier, the view from new-kid-on-therestaurant-block Aloft is gobsmacking – a perfect expanse of blue water, punctuated with lolling boats and framed by the rolling hills of the Eastern Shore. Watching it transform to a star-filled night sky is almost enough to distract from the best food in town. Pier 1, Brooke St Pier, Hobart; aloftrestaurant.com
DARK MOFO IS CHANGING WINTER IN HOBART The winter festival program features a range of events (above) from the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona, right).
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“Dark Mofo is all about discovering and teasing out the adventures that can only happen once the sun has set”
Amarna (2015), James Turrell Celebrate the onset of dark with James Turrell's permanent light installation, Amarna (2015). Perched atop Mona's waterfront site, this Skyspace recalibrates the sky at sunset – making you question what is real – framing the night as an artwork in itself. Pair it with a glass of Tassie Pinot Noir and you're set for a pretty cracking start to your evening. Sunset and sunrise, Museum of Old and New Art, 655 Main Rd, Berriedale; mona.net.au
South Seas Cocktail Lounge When I want something unique, I go to South Seas Cocktail Lounge, a tiny and almost-impossible-tolocate rum bar hidden behind an abandoned office building in Salamanca. South Seas holds 10 people, and is locked when it reaches capacity. Themed with South Pacific-styled sea-faring kitsch, tiki antiquities and cocktails served in coconuts, this is the perfect place to hide a Hawaiian shirt under your puffa jacket and forget the cold outside. 13-17 Castray Esplanade, Battery Point
Blacklist The ultimate place to befriend the dark hours is Dark Mofo’s late-night club, Blacklist: a subversive party that transforms its ever-changing venue into a seething underworld of joyous excess. I vividly remember my first after-party, wondering what sort of seductive dream I had stumbled into. In an underground cinema with an impromptu naked dance party in one room and an old-school bingo game in another, I realised the unique Hobart energy that permeated the “up-for-anything” vibe: a city of people comfortable with long dark nights, and uniquely equipped to celebrate winter’s passing. Hobart, Tasmania, June 11-12, June 17-18, 10pm till late; darkmofo.net.au
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Hobart from Melbourne tigerair.com.au
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THE POINTY END
T HE P L AY L I S T Pack these on your next trip away WE AR
COMFORTABLE SHOES “I love my Converse sneakers. I can make them match any outfit and I'm always able to last long days walking and exploring.”
AHEAD OF THE PACK Kate Laurie, Winemaker/Owner Deviation Road
ZIGGY MARLEY ZIGGY MARLEY
KIT
DIABETES
interview paul chai. albums matt shea.
Ü Kate obtained her winemaking degree from Champagne in France and has gone on to make wine at the Deviation Road label in Longwood, one of the oldest in the Adelaide Hills. Deviation Road has seen five generations of winemakers of which Kate is the most recent. When she travels for business, Kate says she is a window-seat person as she loves “being able to create my own space for the flight, and not get interrupted.” Kate’s last holiday was to Sydney (”Actually a sales trip but visiting restaurants all the time makes it feel like a holiday!”) When asked to pinpoint what she loves about getting on a plane, she says – everything. “The anticipation that goes with leaving, the cultural and scenic discoveries made in new places, and the nostalgic love of coming home,” she says. Deviation Road will be taking part in the sixth annual Winter Reds weekend when more than 40 Adelaide Hills wineries welcome wine lovers to come and taste reds by an open fire. The Winter Reds weekend takes place from July 29-31. For more information visit adelaidehillswine.com.au.
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Over the last two decades Ziggy Marley has emerged as the most consistent of Bob’s brood of musical children. It’s because of albums like this self-titled effort, which shines with a brand of reggae that’s accessible without being cliched. Ideal for… mid-winter tropical Queensland escapes
“I have Type 1 diabetes, so my kit is rather imperative! (Insulin, test strips, infusion sets, glucagon.)”
RE AD
MAGAZINE
“I buy Gourmet Traveller Wine and engross myself in what everyone is up to around the vinous world.”
2 HEY GERONIMO
CR ASHING INTO THE SUN Crashing Into the Sun is a rambunctious 40-minute collection of rock-guitar pop that’s the result of three years, four different songwriters and four different producers. That might sound messy, but Hey Geronimo have the skills to pull it off. Ideal for… a self-guided tour of Brisbane’s craft breweries
TECH
PHONE “Just my (Samsung) smartphone. I rely on that for everything and love that it is so compact.” E AT
WATER “For some reason I get extra thirsty when I fly so I have copious amounts of water. And when I indulge it's usually a packet of nuts to go with a gin and tonic.”
3 HAS-LO
HARD WRITER EP Has-Lo has spent much of his career trying to escape his highly personal 2011 debut, In Case I Don’t Make It. Few can look inward as well as Has-Lo, or deliver the results with such slick vocal precision. Perfect music for the soul. Ideal for… winter hikes in regional Victoria and New South Wales
And, with your third night free, why not explore the world’s largest sand island on a guided tour and discover Fraser’s beauty spots.
kingfisherbay.com or
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We’ve bundled together the very best the region has to offer – our migrating Humpback Whales and World Heritage-listed Fraser Island – so you can see and experience more.
THE POINTY END
We sent a drone to hover above Melbourne's sporting headquarters so you can scope out the hotspots to visit. 1
THE EUREK A SKYDECK If you want to get your very own drone's-eye view of the Melbourne CBD head to the observation deck of the Eureka Tower, 88 floors above the ground. eurekaskydeck.com.au
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ARTS CENTRE MELBOURNE The Arts Centre spire is one of Melbourne's most recognisable landmarks. Playing in July are Bell Shakespeare's production of Othello and Broadway musical Funny Girl. artscentremelbourne.com.au
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FEDER ATION SQUARE The city meeting place opposite historic Flinders Street Station, Fed Square has pop-ups, bars, restaurants and a riverside ice rink in June and July. fedsquare.com
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HOSIER L ANE The street art in this laneway tucked behind Fed Square is amongst the most photographed in the city. It also has Frank Camorra's famous tapas bar, MoVida. movida.com.au
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THE MELBOURNE CRICKET GROUND Jump out at Flinders Street station and walk the riverside to see the AFL at this hallowed ground. Meat pies a must. mcg.org.au
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drone's eye view
t he mc g MELBOUR NE
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4
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SWARM UAV We'd like you to meet the Tigerair drone, borrowed from aerial photography company Swarm UAV. Their team sent this multicopter up over the the MCG in Mebourne to give us this great shot; swarmuav.com.au
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THE POINTY END
Do a snowshoe tour on Mount Buller
WORDS PAUL CHAI
N
ot all skiing days are created equal. Much as we love to hit the slopes, there are some windy, white-out days that make you think twice about heading up the mountain. But what if you could go for a walk in the trees, exploring the alpine terrain you normally zoom past? You can – you just have to strap on some snowshoes. I'm taking a Yeti Snow Shoe Tour with Alpine Recreation (formerly the Australian Alpine Institute) and my guide is Anthony “Combo” Comben, a veteran in the Victorian alpine village of Mount Buller, just a three-hour drive from Melbourne. I'm initially disappointed that my snow shoes look nothing like tennis racquets, my only reference point for this activity being episodes of The Goodies and Scooby-Doo.
Instead I have a pair of paddle-shaped shoes made from metal and plastic with sharp metal teeth underneath to bite into any icy patches. Combo, a regular at the snow-shoe shuffle, opts for Yowies, a lighter flat plastic shoe that are well named since they look like a walking sandal designed for Big Foot. All strapped in, I channel my inner polar expedition leader and follow Combo into the trees. Actually, I fall flat on my face, then dust myself off and follow Combo into the trees. There's a satisfying crunch underfoot as we walk through the misty forest. After another spill, Combo gives me the sound advice of making sure one foot is planted firmly before lifting the other and I stay up for the remainder of our guided ê
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THE POINTY END
Five Victorian alpine eats GINGER BAKER This welcoming shack with views of the Ovens River in Bright is the cream of the crop when it comes to wintry breakfasts. Hotham locals head down the windy road just for the ricotta hotcakes. 127 Great Alpine Rd, Bright; gingerbakerwinebarcafe.com.au
T'S HIGH COUNTRY CAFE T's High Country Cafe serves up killer toasted sandwiches at very un-snow prices. Try the pulled pork or the breakfast option with egg, bacon and cheese. The Ave, Mt Buller village
SWINDLERS
walk. We trudge among the heath bush and alpine grasses, the low cloud and fog giving the forest an eerie vibe. I wonder if we might surprise any alpine animals. “You get some wombats, and there is a pygmy possum that is unique to the alpine environment,” Combo says. “There are also some native rats, but you don't see any kangaroos up this high. You do get deer, but not normally in the village.” After a while we emerge onto a service road and the walking becomes a little easier, but the larger strides – and keeping up with an expert – means snow shoeing is no quiet constitutional. Getting in among the woods you do get a different perspective of the mountain, observing the beauty of the gnarled trees and tufts of grass poking up through the carpet of white snow. When our walk concludes, I feel I've seen more of the countryside in an hour than I would in a week of regular skiing.
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Still, I haven’t given skiing the boot just yet – the following day is a stunner, so I swap my snow shoes for skis again and get some great runs in along the Wombat and Little Buller Spur trails. But, should the weather turn again (as it inevitably does), at least I now have a back-up plan. A Yeti Snow Shoe Tour forms part of the “Snow Play in a Day” itinerary. To book visit snowplayinaday.com.au.
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations, including Bali tigerair.com.au
Stop in to this bar and bistro right next to the Hotham Village chair for doorstop brekky burritos to keep you skiing for hours. Hotham Central; mthotham.com.au
R U N D E L L’ S A L P I N E L O D G E You won’t want to leave the horseshoe bar at this Peppers-run mountain resort, but the dining room of Graze Restaurant has plenty to tempt you away from the craft brew on tap. 2 Big Muster Dr, Dinner Plain; rundells.com.au
PENSION GRIMUS The perfect Euro-alpine diner, Kaptans restaurant in Pension Grimus has a huge carved fireplace, a mounted moose head and pictures of Hans Grimus, a Buller stalwart for over five decades. 224 Breathtaker Rd, Mt Buller; pensiongrimus.com.au
Why I live in
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S Y DNE Y Actor Hilary Cole plays Veronica Sawyer in the stage musical Heathers, based on the killer '90s movie. What makes Sydney a great place to live? The weather. I grew up in Melbourne and I underestimated how much the weather affected my mood. How has the city changed in the past few years? It seems like there is a real drive for innovation and personalisation within the food industry especially. The markets around the corner from where I live have gone from being so-so to being something straight out of Brooklyn or Seattle. Where is your favourite place to go after a show? Post-show go-to is Caffe Roma in Kings Cross (9 Kellett St, Potts Point; cafferoma.com.au) because they are open until all hours and make the best gnocchi. Do you have a favourite bar? I'm a straight-up whiskey girl so the Baxter Inn (Basement, 152-156 Clarence St, Sydney; thebaxterinn.com) is always a favourite. Bloody Mary's in Darlinghurst (332 Victoria St, Darlinghurst; bloodymaryssydney.com.au) is also great because I love Bloody Marys (and the French waiter). Where do you go to switch off? Nielsen Park (Greycliffe Ave, Vaucluse; nielsenpark.com.au). I go there at least three times a week for quiet time. Tell us something only a local would know. You can walk for four hours around the strip between Woolloomooloo and Rose Bay and find an endless amount of coves and crevices.
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MORE ARTS Hip-hop artists takes us on a tour of the ‘hoods that have inspired their music.
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CATCH HIL ARY I N H E AT H E R S The deadly goingson at Westerburg High plays at the Sydney Opera House from June 8-26; visit sydneyoperahouse.com for more details.
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THE POINTY END
THE FEAST 1 0F 2
WHY “FUSION” IS NO LONGER “THE F WORD” It used to be a cuisine car crash, but things are coming together
WORDS PAUL KRISTOFF ILLUSTRATION KEV GAHAN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM
F
usion food combines styles, ingredients and techniques from multiple culinary traditions to create new and unified dishes. It’s a term that makes food lovers cringe and run in the opposite direction of any establishment that describes its food as fusion. But why does fusion food have such a bad reputation? The quintessential Italian dish of spaghetti served with a tomato-based sauce is fusion, with spaghetti originating in China and tomatoes in South America. The first recorded instance of the two being combined in a single dish? 1790. South East Asian favourites like laksa and beef rendang are examples of Peranakan or Nyonya cuisine, which emerged when Chinese immigrants settled in the Malay Archipelago between the 15th and 17th centuries and adapted Chinese dishes using Malay spices. Again, fusion. How about banh mi? Created in Saigon in the late 19th century when the French introduced the baguette to Vietnam. That’s right, fusion. Fusion food has existed for as long as humans have migrated across the globe. But with its roster including some of our best-known and most-beloved dishes, why then does the term get such a bad rap? To answer that question, we need to go back to the 1970s. Modern fusion is considered to have its origins in Alice Waters’ and Wolfgang
Puck’s “California cuisine” of the 1970s, when the idea of using local, seasonal ingredients and drawing inspiration from the food of a region's ethnically diverse population led to the creation of fantastic new dishes. Good things continued into the 1980s with Wolfgang Puck blending Chinese and American food to create Chinese chicken salad; Nobuyuki "Nobu" Matsuhisa introducing his Peruvian/Japanese inspired miso-marinated black cod; and Roy Yamaguchi effortlessly combining French and Asian elements to create dishes like his filet mignon with shiso Béarnaise sauce. In 1988 the term “fusion food” was born, sparking a trend. But as with all trends, everyone wanted a piece of the action and with this came some disasters. By the 1990s the whole reason behind fusion food was ignored, as the focus shifted to combining ingredients from different cuisines not to create something new, but merely for the sake of doing it. Let’s stick corn chips inside this sushi roll! Let’s put salsa in this pasta! Let's smear wasabi on this steak! Just because you can do something doesn’t mean you should, and soon enough, the reputation of fusion food was ruined, with chefs referring to fusion as “the F word”, the ê word nobody was allowed to say.
LIGHTING THE FUSE: ONE A US SIE M A S TER One of Australia’s greatest restaurants could be considered “fusion”, as threehatted chef Tetsuya Wakuda (of Tetsuya's) combines local produce with Japanese and European techniques – so it ain’t all bad on the fusion front.
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"JUST BECAUSE YOU CAN DO SOMETHING, DOESN'T MEAN THAT YOU SHOULD" But while the term might have come to an undignified end, fusion food itself never really went anywhere. Think about modern-Australian and modern-American food. It uses local, seasonal ingredients, and is inspired by the culinary traditions of the various ethnic groups that make up the local population. Sounds a lot like what kick-started the fusion food movement in 1970s California. The difference today is that consumers also have a keen interest in where their food comes from, the story behind their dish, and the varied aspects that inspired it. In the US in 2008, Roy Choi started selling his Korean tacos out of a food truck in Los Angeles. It's street food that combines Korean fillings with Mexican tortillas in a way that respects the ingredients and tastes fantastic. In Australia, fusion food draws strong influence from the various Asian immigrant groups that have settled in the country: Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese. Gone are the days of sweet and sour pork and bland, oily spring rolls. Today, Australian chefs don’t hesitate about using ingredients like Thai fish sauce, ponzu, XO sauce and tamarind in their cooking. Increasingly, native Australian ingredients are being re-appropriated into Australian cooking, being used in dishes that have European and Asian heritage. Fusion food has always been with us and will continue to exist for as long as humans travel, immigrate and remain curious. With the focus back on
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THE POINTY END THE FEAST 2 0F 2 ingredients, flavour and technique, there’s never been a better time to explore fusion food. Just don’t use the “F word”. Here are five of the best places to find it in Australia. Little Oscar, Melbourne Inspired by New York’s Koreatown, Little Oscar takes two trends that are hot in Australia right now, American food and Korean food, and mashes them together to create some fantastic dishes. Try the beer-battered chips with caramelised kimchi and gochujang beef covered in cheong-gochu, sour cream and spring onions. A messy thing of wonder. 41 Lygon St, Brunswick East; littleoscar.com.au Momofuku Seiobo, Sydney David Chang is one of the best-known names when it comes to modern fusion (his newest restaurant, Italian-Korean fusion Nishi opened in New York in January this year). In Sydney, recently appointed head chef Paul Carmichael takes diners on a journey of discovery using native Australian ingredients such as Davidson plum, pepperberries, desert lime and marron in dishes that exhibit European and Asian influences. The Star/80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont; seiobo.momofuku.com Longtime, Brisbane This popular contemporary Asian eatery has a Thai focus with head chef Ben Bertai’s understanding of the underlying elements of Thai food coming through on a menu that ranges from traditional to fusion. A Moreton Bay bug curry can be found amongst the more familiar red duck curry, and the popular “Bangkok taco” fills crispy turmeric-fried wafers with spicy minced prawn, shallot, garlic and lettuce. 610 Ann St, Fortitude Valley; longtime.com.au
MIX, Perth Inspired by Roy Choi’s Korean and Mexican fusion food is MIX, in the heart of Perth’s CBD. Tacos, burritos, salad/rice bowls and quesadillas with a Korean twist are what it’s all about here, and there’s even the occasional Japanese influence too. The bulgogi and kimchi burrito, with the aforementioned ingredients, plus rice, beans, lettuce, salsa and Tex Mex favourite sour cream, is a must-try. 211/580 Hay St, Perth; mixperth.com.au Gin Long, Adelaide The food here is predominantly Thai, with the fusion less in your face than most. Japan gets a look-in when wasabi mayo hits the lobster sliders, while the pomegranate chicken is elevated by the use of a fruit more commonly associated with China and the Mediterranean. Those with a sweet tooth will get a kick out of Gin Long’s take on the Italian tiramisu, which makes good use of Vietnamese coffee and pandan. 42 O'Connell St, North Adelaide; ginlongcanteen.com.au
THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture for online magazine The City Lane, and one-third of craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective.
Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.
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The
attraction in town. Within the darkened halls of the Gold Exhibition discover the fascinating story of gold. Marvel at the world’s largest coin weighing 1 tonne of pure gold, and watch as molten gold is poured to form a gleaming solid gold bar. Housed in the grand heritage building, an elegant retail shop presents an array of precious treasures from exquisite jewellery to coin collectables and giftware. You can also relax and enjoy light refreshments in the alfresco dining area of the courtyard café.
Open 7 days a week. 9am – 5pm 310 Hay Street, East Perth Western Australia 6004 Telephone 1300 366 520 perthmint.com.au/visit • Book Online
THE POINTY END
Have a Sunday session at Elizabeth Quay
WORDS TANIA CONNOLLY
T
ake advantage of the clear blue skies and gentle breezes in Perth by winding down the weekend at one of the city’s newest precincts, Elizabeth Quay. The Lucky Shag Waterfront Bar has fast become one of the busiest, but most laid-back, beer gardens around as it sits proudly on Barrack Street Jetty, offering uninterrupted, panoramic views of the Swan River. On a lazy Sunday afternoon, while overlooking the glistening vista, you may catch sight of a gondola, a graceful black swan or a curious dolphin, just metres from your table. Predominantly a walk-in restaurant, on Sundays the Lucky Shag Bar draws a couple of hundred
patrons, clad casually in shorts and thongs, and in the late afternoon the DJ arrives and raises the volume of his mash-ups – but not so loud that conversations are drowned out. They're here for the pub grub, the chat and the sunset over the river. Acoustic acts entertain the crowds during the week as the popular eatery is open for lunch and dinner from 11am each day, with the kitchen closing at 10pm on Sundays. Sunday sessions abound in Perth, the city that invented this noble tradition. There's a laidback defiance in a Perth Sunday afternoon, where drinkers flock to the seaside bars to make sure their weekend ends with a bang and not a whimper. ê
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“There's a laidback defiance that infuses a sunny Sunday afternoon in Perth” There are traditional venues like the Norfolk Hotel in Fremantle and that area's famous little-brewery-that-could Little Creatures. You can sip a seaside martini at the swish Beach Club in Cottlesloe or take things down a notch at the local-heavy Flying Scotsman in Mount Lawley. But The Lucky Shag is a different experience from the usual beachside session in the suburbs. It also means you can explore Elizabeth Quay, Perth’s newest party precinct. The $2.6 billion project aims to reconnect the city of Perth with the Swan River via a range of new public spaces, bars and restaurants, hotels and the snaking, striking pedestrian bridge. In the shadow of the famous Perth Bell Tower, this riverside precinct has water parks and public art, and there will be a range of pop-up activities ê
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Other eats at the Quay SASSY’S ON THE SWAN Enjoy a breakfast of pancakes, omelettes, crusty breads, hot coffee and more from 7am to 3pm every day. Local, organic ingredients sourced where possible. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options available. 171 Riverside Drive; sassysontheswan.com.au
ANNAL AKSHMI Lunch and dinner buffet-style, Indian, vegetarian meal of rice, vegetables and curry. Open every day. Eat as much you like, finish your meal, then pay “from your heart” – what you believe it’s worth. Jetty 4 Riverside Drive; annalakshmi.com.au
RIVERSIDE CAFE, BAR AND RESTAUR ANT Indulge in waffles, cakes, shakes, or a champagne breakfast. Lunch and dinner menus showcase freshly cooked fare to complement the view. Eastern Pavilion, Barrack Square; riversidecafeperth.com.au
AQUA BAR This late-night bar sells tantalising tapas to accompany the various cocktail concoctions available, Thursday to Sunday evenings. Choose the terrace, lounge or upper deck area for group or private functions. Barrack Street Jetty, Barrack Square; aqua-bar.com.au
from food trucks to night noodle markets, ensuring there's always something new to see here. The first stage of the Elizabeth Quay redevelopment opened in January. Though there's a lot more to open up, there's still plenty on offer in the Quay area. Work up an appetite by climbing the Bell Tower, take a leisurely stroll to admire the new sculptures or just grab the opportunity to photograph the spectacular Kings Park
before settling in at the Lucky Shag. Sunday sessions are all about relaxing and unwinding with family and friends before wrestling with the week ahead. There's no better way to do that than by soaking up the vibes from the heart of Perth, the Swan River. Find out more at mra.wa.gov.au
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Perth from Sydney, Melbourne and Bali tigerair.com.au
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HALO RESTAUR ANT Halo’s chef specialises in modern seafood dishes. Guests savour the flavours of the ocean before devouring decadent desserts. Pier 1 Barrack Street Jetty; halorestaurant.com.au
UNIQUE. THRILLING. UNEXPECTED. Immerse yourself in Perth’s biggest winter festival with over 130 events.
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Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 35 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne, currently holding one hat from The Age Good Food Guide. Enjoy an authentic Japanese dining experience.
JAPANESE RESTAURANT
KENZAN.COM.AU | +61 (0)3 9654 8933
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THE POINTY END
TRAVEL & TAT 1 0F 2
THE PASSENGER A round-table chat with three different travellers. This month’s topic: souvenirs
ILLUSTRATION GREGORY BALDWIN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM
Connor McLeod, tat avoider Souvenirs are the scourge of the modern traveller. There is an entire industry everywhere you go – from airports to markets to retail strips – trying to make you buy a wooden iPhone speaker with that country’s logo or flag on it that you not only don’t need, but also will regret buying. If you shop at a market in Bangkok and discover the perfect wooden carving of two cute baby-like people that snuggle up to each other like bookends,
you'll be at a friend’s house a month later and they'll have the same baby-people bookends on their shelf. These generic souvenirs are like the McDonald’s of travel gifts: everything is the same, save for the name of the country painted in the corner. I object to the time souvenir shopping takes. It removes time from meeting people, discovering new places and exploring a country – the things that will provide you with lasting memories, not plastic shame to be hidden in the bottom drawer. And don’t even get me started on buying souvenirs for other people. Why would you spend your holiday time tracking down some tourist tat for
someone else? Go out to a bar and raise a glass to absent friends instead. When I get back I can share some photos and stories with you, and that'll be more interesting for both of us than a painted shot glass or a plastic key ring. I did go through a weird-and-exotic alcohol phase in my twenties. You know, when you just have to have that funnyshaped bottle, that limoncello from Italy, or that mango wine from Queensland – the weirder the better. I told myself it wasn't a souvenir if you drank it – except you never, ever finish these bottles.
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“BUY SOMEONE YOU LOVE A SNOW GLOBE AND I BET MY ENTIRE COLLECTION IT WILL MAKE THEM SMILE” Limoncello tastes like the nectar of the gods on a balcony in the Amalfi Coast sun, and like lolly water the minute you get it back home. Souvenirs take up valuable baggage space at a time when airlines do not take any prisoners when it comes to excess baggage. Above all, I really hate shopping, and I’m not spending my holidays deciding which tacky baseball cap to buy you, me, or anyone else.
Sarah Mitchell, globe trotter I think souvenirs are a great way to remember your holiday, but I like to have a consistent theme. I collect snow globes from all the places in the world that I've travelled. It’s kitsch, it’s fun and it acts like a small plastic travelogue of the places I've visited. It started innocently enough when a friend gave me one after a trip to Sydney. I got a kick out of the Sydney Opera House in a snowstorm, but it somehow looked
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very lonely sitting on my shelf, so I bought it a friend after a long weekend in Darwin. Snow in Darwin – I think you get the drift. Before I knew it I had 20, then 40, and I recently cracked the Big 5-0 with a globe bought on a trip to Bali. Snow globes look better in a group; one is tacky, but a full shelf to me becomes more like art. One thing I like about collecting souvenirs is that it gets you out exploring. Because I don’t want just any globe, I probably travel further searching out the more interesting options. I make a rule never to buy them at airports as a lastminute thing; from the moment I arrive somewhere I'm on snow-globe alert. It makes me explore more. Sure I'm only exploring shops, but that takes me to new areas in a foreign city and that leads to bars and restaurants I might otherwise not have found. I've looked online and there's quite a community of snow-globe nuts. There's a lot of trading and of course you can buy anything online these days, but I have a simple rule that I have to buy them when I travel. They have to be a souvenir of a trip that I've taken – not just another addition to the collection. Snow globes are cheap, portable (but best kept in hand luggage), and if I find a really good one I'll always buy one for a friend. Buy someone you love a snow globe and I bet my entire collection it'll make them smile.
Paul Chai, opportunist I love being reminded of my travels, but in a good way. I'm not so thrilled at being reminded of my trip to Laos two decades ago by a silk wall hanging that has been in storage for 19 of those past 20 years. I used to get caught up in trying to buy the perfect souvenir – that one that was unique to that country or place,
TRAVEL & TAT 2 0F 2
that I couldn’t find anywhere else – but then I realised you can find everything everywhere. Online, in the neighbouring country, even back at home. So I don’t look for souvenirs anymore, but sometimes souvenirs happen. I'm writing this wearing a tattered old baseball T-shirt I bought in Swingers Hollywood Diner, my favourite place for breakfast in the whole world. Just looking at the shirt I can taste their Huevos Rancheros, see the tattooed wait staff with stars in their eyes and hear the rock ‘n’ roll soundtrack. Music makes a good souvenir. If a local song follows me around on a trip, I try to find the band and get a hold of the album. In the past this meant hoping it would turn up on music television or that I'd catch their name on the radio – thank god for Shazam. I have a few CDs that I put on and get a rush of good travel memories. On a recent trip to Margaret River I bought a raffia sun hat to protect me from the almost permanent sun I got touring the wine region, and going to the Margaret River Gourmet Escape event. It was four days of top-notch food, worldclass wine and really good company, and now when I pop that hat on I can still feel some of that Western Australian sunshine – even in the Melbourne winter. Going shopping for souvenirs is never part of my travel itinerary anymore, but coming away with an unexpected memento is a win.
RENATO A place for romance
199-201 Lt Collins Street, Melbourne
www.renatojewellers.com
THE POINTY END THE SPLURGE
ST JEROME'S THE HOTEL CBD, Melbourne
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hy it's worth it: If you like your jungles concrete, there's something wonderfully surreal about sitting outside your tent on the faux-lawn of a city rooftop watching the CBD lights slowly flicker on. The St Jerome's Hotel, from Jerome Borazio of Laneway festival fame, has an east and west wing of safari-style tents and a collegiate atmosphere of bocce games, ping-pong and welcome drinks – as well as staff who are in
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on the playfulness. Going to sleep under canvas, to the sound of police sirens and tram bells, should be done once in your life. Bang for your buck: Upon arrival, your tent will get a delivery of an Esky stocked with water, craft beers and ciders, and you'll be introduced to your night's itinerary. A normal night at Chez Jerome's might start with an Aperol Spritz at the "One While
urban camping on a cit y rooftop St Jerome's offers an urban oasis where you can play ping-pong, camp out and explore the CBD.
Changing" cocktail cart, then you can take an urban hike for your pizza at nearby Slice Girls (included) in Borazio's cafe/ bar 1000 £ Bend. Or grab an antipasto platter, cheese plate or a bottle of Laurent Perrier Champagne (all extra) and pretend the office lights are stars. A fully stuffed breakfast hamper arrives with a baristamade caffeine jolt in the morning.
WORDS PAUL CHAI
The digs: Your luxe tent comes with a double bed piled high with cushions (it's the best place to be on a chilly night), a heater, snacks, magazines, and a robe and towel. It also has a Samsung Galaxy tablet pre-loaded with Stan for a movie or TV fix. You can sit in low-slung chairs on a small deck outside your tent and bathrooms are communal but everything is very close. Must-do experience: End your night with a Messina S'Morevival Kit delivered to your tent. A member of the team will arrive with your s'mores kit – biscuit, chocolate ice cream and marshmallows in a small
box – then they will theatrically torch your marshmallows and leave you to assemble your campfire classic. The damage: Luxe tents from $380 per night for two people, or a Luxe Plus tent has a bit more room and a queen bed instead of a double for $410. Level 3, Melbourne Central, Melbourne; stjeromesthehotel.com.au
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations tigerair.com.au
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THE POINTY END
Discover four of Brisbane’s best eats
I
WORDS MATT SHEA
t started with a television show. Tom Sanceau and Bonnie Shearston were holed up in Berlin, living with Sanceau’s brother while planning an extended trip to Australia, when they spotted an advert in a magazine. “It was called Living in Australia, and at the back was this ad asking, ‘Do you want to be on TV? We are looking for people emigrating to Australia and setting up a business,’” Sanceau recalls. “So we just applied for it.” Sure enough, the English-born business partners wound up on Channel 7’s Fantasy Homes Down Under. They were asked what they were hoping to achieve in Australia. “And stupidly we said, ‘We want to open bars and restaurants!’” Sanceau says. “Then we were on record and felt we had to follow-up.”
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The duo arrived in Australia in 2009 and initially made a play for Melbourne. “But we found it too competitive, and I think I found it too European,” Sanceau says. So, after a couple of months dossing with Shearston’s Australian father in Tenterfield, just south of the Queensland-New South Wales border, they visited Brisbane, and immediately sensed an opportunity. “It was a proper city, but with only a handful of decent venues,” Sanceau says. So, in 2010 they teamed up with two more business partners to open Canvas, a slinky cocktail bar that remains a lynchpin in Woolloongabba’s Logan Road precinct. It was a huge success, winning New Bar of the Year at Bartender Magazine’s 2011 Australian Bar Awards.
“Brisbane can be hard to get around, so it's important to create venues that are destinations in themselves”
MAKING A BIG SPL ASH ON THE BRISSIE FOOD SCENE Business partners Tom Sanceau and Bonnie Shearston went from reality TV to running places like Public (above) and Red Hook (right)
But Canvas was just a stepping stone, Sanceau and Shearston eventually flipping their share in the business to focus on a new restaurant in a seemingly overlooked location, one floor up in Brisbane’s court district. “It was stupid in a way,” Sanceau laughs. “But we saw an opportunity. We felt it could be a great location for a really good restaurant.” What became the award-winning Public (Upper Level 1, 400 George St, 07 3210 2288) in 2012 almost went bust a number of times in its early days. But Sanceau and Shearston – as well as third partner Jason White — had hit upon a giddy alchemy, developing a restaurant and bar that delivers up exceptional food and cocktails in an enchanting glass box of a space. It remains arguably their signature venue. “Brisbane can be hard to get around,” Shearston says, “so it’s important to create venues that are destinations in themselves.” Still, the duo weren’t finished, opening two very different venues in a six-month period toward the end of 2014: the NewYork-street-food-focused Red Hook (3/88 Creek St, no website) in the middle of the CBD, an immediate hit, and then, a block away, Italian small plate and wine specialist, Coppa Spuntino (88 Creek St, coppaspuntino.com). “We wanted to do an aperitivo style bar,” Sanceau says. “I think people in the inner city are gravitating ê towards these smaller spaces.”
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London Fields taps into Sanceau's background working in gastropubs in London Finally, last year came London Fields (Corner of Montague & Raven St, londonfields.com.au) in West End. A different venue again, with White back in the fold, it tapped into Sanceau’s background working in gastropubs in London. All angular timber panelling and vertiginous windows, there’s little in the way of sticky carpet and bags of stale crisps here. Instead, it’s good food at a reasonable price, backed by an imaginative list of beer, wine and cocktails. It’s where you’ll find Sanceau most days, with Shearston looking after Red Hook and Coppa Spuntino, and an expert team overseeing Public.
But why open so many venues that are so different? Sanceau says the duo’s accountant asks the same thing. “But if we see an interesting cuisine or we have an interesting idea, we’ll follow it,” he says. “Brisbane’s a relatively small city,” adds Shearston. “There isn’t a huge amount of room to do multiples of the same venues. So it’s the perfect place to explore doing something different each time, and Tom and I have always had a backlog of ideas.” So, what’s next? Shearston talks with some portent about a seven-year itch. “I think we both have it,” she laughs. “I’d love to explore another city in Australia. Or maybe even overseas. We’re looking into it, but can’t say too much right now.”
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane from five destinations tigerair.com.au
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CITY STORIES
PHOTO DANIEL BOUD
Hip hop is street music, influenced by urban life. Matt Shea asks three musicians about the places that inspire them...
A
ustralia’s cities are changing. Once known for their endless urban sprawl, in more recent years town planners have refocused their attention inward. The result has been higher-density living and finetuned development approvals, allowing for an influx of residents and small businesses. It’s a move that has seen inner suburbs across Australia come alive with creativity, as new communities build themselves around galleries, cafes, shops and bars. Watching it all have been some of our best hip hop artists – an art form often defined by its focus on community and powers of observation. We asked some of the best musicians from around the country to reflect on their towns, what’s changed for the better, and how that’s influenced their creativity.
CHIPPENDALE, SYDNEY OKENYO Zindzi Okenyo knows Chippendale – which is more than can be said for many Sydneysiders. The small inner-city suburb, wedged in-between Central train station and the University of Sydney, has long been overlooked by both trendsetters and real estate agents. Even One Central Park – the handsome mixed-use development that now towers on its eastern fringe – has had
only a limited impact on the warehouses and ancient brick apartments that cluster around Abercrombie Street. For Okenyo, it’s home. And that’s saying something, given all the places she’s laid down roots. Born in Adelaide to a Kenyan father and Australian mother who specialised in teaching English as a second language, much of her early life was spent travelling to remote communities in South Australia and the Northern Territory. That was followed by stints living in Adelaide, Queensland and then Hobart, before Okenyo moved to Sydney as an 18-year-old to study at the National Institute of Dramatic Art. “I lived in Newtown for about four years,” she says. “But I’ve been in Chippendale since 2010, so this is really my home.” Okenyo made her name as an actor, best known for her work on stage and in smaller roles on Australian television (as well as a part-time gig hosting Play School). But more recently it has been in music where the 30-year-old is having an impact. Okenyo’s songs shift from right-angled trip-hop to slick indie pop and back again, but they’re always rooted in a swooning, arched-brow style of vocal delivery that’s one part rap ê music and two parts soul.
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CITY STORIES
“My neighbourhood of Chippendale is an integral part of how I create”
Okenyo’s observations of stretched relationships, vulnerability and empowerment are what give her songs their slinking power. But they’re observations so often drawn from what she sees around her in Chippendale. “I’ve lived alone for about nine years now so my neighbourhood is a really integral part of how I create,” she says. “My lifestyle in Sydney has definitely contributed to the way that I write.” She’s amazed by how much Chippendale has changed over the years. In 2010, when Okenyo moved into the neighbourhood, it had a few grimy warehouses and empty units. Now it overflows with cafes, bars and gallery spaces, its juxtaposition with the University of Sydney making it a hub for creative confabs. “It’s extraordinary,” she says. “Because you have bars like Freda’s (109 Regent St, fredas.com.au) right round the corner, which is an amazing place for live music and live events.”
OKENYO’S ESSENTIAL CUTS 10 Feet Tall Just a Story Broken Chest
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Otherwise, Okenyo admits to being a cafe creature, hitting up Something For Jess (corner of Abercrombie and O’Connor St, no website) or Brickfields (206 Cleveland St, brickfields.com.au) for a coffee – or just getting on her pushbike and riding around Sydney, whether it be to the Sydney Fish Market (Bank St and Pyrmont Bridge Rd, sydneyfishmarket.com.au) or Victoria Park in Camperdown (City Rd and Parramatta Rd, cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au). At night, it’s about Kensington Street Social (3 Kensington St, kensingtonstreetsocial.com) and “this weird, kitsch fun thing” called Spice Alley (18-20 Kensington St, no website). But what really sets Chippendale apart, she says, is its galleries – White Rabbit (30 Balfour St, whiterabbitcollection.org) and MOP Projects (2/39 Abercrombie St, mop.org.au), among them. “They’re beautiful spaces just to collect your mind,” Okenyo says.
OKENYO IS A KEEN OBSERVER OF THE STRETCHED REL ATIONSHIPS AND VULNERABILITY CAUSED BY L I V I N G A L O N E I N S Y D N E Y.
CITY STORIES
FOOTSCRAY, MELBOURNE DIAFRIX Diafrix are anchored to their neighbourhood like few other Australian artists. And that’s because their neighbourhood is Footscray, west of inner-city Melbourne. For years Footscray was the Victorian capital’s forgotten suburb, defined by street drugs and petty crime. But in 2016 it’s one of the hottest postcodes in Australia, in the midst of a systematic gentrification. Gentrification is often a dirty word, but rapper-producer Momo and rapper Azmarino don’t see it that way. “There were just a lot of empty shops around here,” Azmarino, born Khalid Abdulwahab, says. “So it’s not pushing anyone out. It’s just taking up space that wasn’t occupied.” Walking the streets of Footscray with Diafrix, you’re constantly interrupted by passers-by. And you quickly learn, that’s just Footscray. Everyone knows each other. On Nicholson Street Mall, a leafy, sun-dappled high street, we shake hands and make brief small talk with an athletic twenty-something. “You know who that was?” Momo – born Mohamed Komba – asks after he bids us farewell, trotting down the mall towards the local barber. “Heritier Lumumba. The AFL player. He doesn’t live here anymore – a lot of us don’t – but we still come back to catch up, or buy some groceries we can’t get elsewhere in the city.”
Not that Footscray is defined by just its African population. Abdulwahab explains the different waves of migration by gesturing expansively to the mall in front of us. A group of Yugoslavians are sitting, drinking coffee on a set of park benches. Behind them is an Afghan kebab shop next to a Vietnamese beauty parlour, next to an Ethiopian bakery. “But it’s very harmonious. We used to get along because you just had to,” he says. “And now there are lots of young Anglo-Saxon families moving in, which adds a whole new ê side to the suburb.”
WALK THE STREETS OF FOOTSCR AY WITH HIP HOP DUO DIAFRIX AND YOU SEE WHY IT FEATURES IN THEIR MUSIC.
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CITY STORIES
Diafrix made their name introducing an African-Australian voice to local hip hop. On 2009 breakthrough Concrete Jungle they tapped into their backgrounds – Komba arrived from the Comoros Islands as a boy, Abdul from Eritrea a teenager – to tell stories about their heritage. It was a sound they shifted away from slightly on 2012’s more commercial, single-heavy Pocket Full of Dreams. But, now in their early 30s, the duo has a different kind of appreciation for their background. “When we first started, our mentality was about really repping Footscray. I think now, though, it’s about us as individuals,” Komba says. “I don’t have to prove that anymore – the work that I’ve done up until this point represents that.” A formative experience for Diafrix was an extended sojourn through Europe in
DIAFRIX’S ESSENTIAL CUTS Easy Come, Easy Go Concrete Jungle The Sign
2011, where they witnessed the striking multiculturalism of countries such as France. And to Abdulwahab, Footscray is a microcosm of a greater, truer multiculturalism that’s now happening in Australia. “You’re actually seeing black faces pop up – in advertising, on the football field, in music,” he says. “A whole new generation.” Now, when Diafrix visit Footscray and they’re not lunching on injera and sipping coffee at Konjo Cafe (87-89 Irving St, konjo.com.au), or grabbing dinner at 8-Bit Burger (8 Droop St, eat8bit.com.au), they’re buying fish or toro or banana leaves from Little Saigon Market (63 Nicholson St, no website). “Food is at its best when it’s full of colour,” Komba says. “But it’s really the same with Footscray and its ethnicities. It looks ê amazing when it’s full of colour.”
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Bay of Portofino
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PERTH COIN BANKS FOLLOWING IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF DRAPHT AND DOWNSYDE, PERTH'S COIN BANKS IS TELLING STREET STORIES FROM THE WA CAPITAL.
Coin Banks is one of the rising stars of Australian hip hop, building his career on a brace of breakthrough EPs in 2014. But if it wasn’t for a move west from Melbourne during his teenage years, it may have never happened.
“There was this amazing hip hop store called Off the Hook, run by this guy named Dan the Man. He was one of the pillars of hip hop in Perth. He put on international shows and announced on community radio,” he says. “It was through Off the Hook that I got into the scene.” Perth has always punched above its hip hop weight. In the late 90s and early 2000s it was Downsyde making waves, then Drapht stepped in to become one of Australia’s most successful rap artists. Now, it’s Banks and collaborators like producer Ta-Ku turning heads on the east coast and beyond. It’s a success that, if anything, Banks would pin to Perth’s enviable jazz scene. “There’s a much bigger jazz influence in Perth, I think, especially when it comes to hip hop,” he says. “That’s what I’ve picked up anyway.” Coin, born Daniel Banks, moved around a lot when he was younger, but these days lives in the seaside suburb of Scarborough, 10 minutes from the CBD. And while he loves the coast – “there’s just nothing quite like the beaches in Perth” – he says most locals are, like him, not particularly tribal, and happily jump to spots all over the city such as Leederville, Mount Lawley, Fremantle and of course the city itself. “I’ve got a favourite ê thing to do in each one,” he laughs.
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CITY STORIES
At Perth’s heart, Banks says, is a Sundaysession culture: go to a bar near the beach, watch the sun set over the sea and have a few drinks with mates. “J-Shed in Fremantle (Fleet St, jshed.com.au) is particularly good right now,” he says. “These old boat sheds. You get Sunday markets there. They have sculptors and photographers. The last section, they’ve just recently turned into a venue with sunset events.” Otherwise, when visitors come to town, Banks likes to take them on a food safari. For breakfast he hits up Piccolo’s Corner in West Leederville (58 St Leonards Ave, no website) – “this old house that’s been turned into a cafe, which has this really great vibe” – while later in the day, he’s all about Korean barbecue: Sun BBQ (318 William St, no website) for lunch and Tong 86 (86 Beaufort St, no website) for dinner, both in Northbridge. “Sun’s got this great weirdness to it – besides being Korean, it has this heavy German influence,” he laughs. “Tong’s super relaxed – the kind of place we’ll go to on a Saturday night before heading out for drinks.”
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“There's a much bigger jazz influence in Perth, especially when it comes to hip hop”
COIN BANKS' ESSENTIAL CUTS Hatches Think of You Thomas Lawrence
As for drinks, stay in Northbridge, either at The Dominion League (84 Beaufort St, dominionleague.com.au) or Mechanics Institute (222 William St, mechanicsinstitutebar.com.au). Dominion is the snazzier of the two, Banks reckons, but both boast exceptional bartenders and a friendly atmosphere. Still, when the 30-year-old MC is in a mood to create, he sticks close to Scarborough. “Harvest Boulangerie (117b Brighton Rd, no website). I can’t stress enough how amazing this place is,” Banks says. “They do this incredible chestnut Danish. For me, it’s a ritual. I wake up on a weekend, head down there, get a coffee and a pastry and then come back to the studio and start working on music.”
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DE S T IN AT ION G OL D C O A S T
DU S T IN
A dad who took his two sons to explore all that glitters on the Gold Coast.
weekend warriors ONE
DESTINATION,
TWO
DIFFERENT
ADVENTURES
P HOE BE
Brisbane-based Phoebe (of Little Grey Box blog) gets healthy on the Goldie.
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WEEKEND WARRIORS
HIT TING THE BE ACH After a surf the boys want to go and explore around the rocks. We have a great time climbing over the boulders that frame the aptly named “Froggies Beach”. It was good bonding for the boys, as they had to help each other up and over the big rocks.
ROCKIN’OUT Being keen surfers, we had to stop in at Snapper Rocks to check out the action. The waves were amazing and eight-year-old Sunny couldn’t resist going out for a quick paddle in the perfect conditions.
T WO WHEEL S GOOD My boys love riding bikes. They had done their research pre-departure and thus we pulled into 99 bikes (74 Marine Parade, Southport; 99bikes.com.au/southportbike-shop) on our way to our hotel. The staff are really friendly and the kids are in awe of the massive selection of bikes.
DU S T IN
and the boys check in to the QT, play in the pool and grab a bike taxi ride.
f r id ay
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HE A DING OUT I start at my favourite place on the Gold Coast, Burleigh Heads. It’s the perfect spot to sit and just breathe, watching surfers paddle out and waves crash on the rocks.
BES T VIE W OF THE GC
MORNING COFFEE For a healthy start to the day and a great cup of coffee I visit Borough Barista (14 The Esplanade, Burleigh Heads). This low-key place is close to the water, a favourite with the locals and serves up a really yum smashed avocado on sourdough with poached eggs.
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Wanting to soak in the coast from the best viewpoint, I head to Lores Bonney Lookout and climb the steep stairs. At the top, I make a right and disappear down a slightly hidden path that leads to the very best hidden views of the Gold Coast, from Surfers Paradise all the way to Burleigh.
DESTINATION GOLD COAST
HIT TING THE BE ACH VIE W FROM THE TOP This is our first time staying in a big multi-storey hotel together. We're all speechless when we catch a glance of the view from our room at QT Hotel (7 Staghorn Ave, Gold Coast; qthotelsandresorts.com/gold-coast) and spend any down time we have perched on the balcony.
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The other great glitzy hotel attraction for all kids big and small is the good ol’ swimming pool. I barely have time to unpack our bags before the kids have dragged me down to the pool. I'm not sure if diving is allowed, but belly smackers were an exception.
GOING DOWNTOWN After dark we went for a walk downtown to explore Surfers Paradise. The kids were getting tired and after much discussion they convinced me to get us a ride back to our lodgings in a bike taxi. The driver cranked up the kids’ favourite music and we travelled home in style. The boys’ faces sum it up.
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TIME FOR A PA DDL E With a full belly, I drive to Tallebudgera Creek. This picture-perfect spot offers up the ideal place to paddle around the shallows and soak in the sun without being smashed by waves. I hire a paddle board and give my balance, butt and abs a good workout.
BIT OF A S TRE TCH I stop in at Pilates & Co (2017 Gold Coast Hwy, Miami; pilatesandco.com.au), a gorgeous studio decked out with a range of Pilates equipment. The classes are challenging but incredibly good at building strength, flexibility, balance and introducing you to muscles you never knew you had.
surveys the coast, goes to Pilates and goes paddle boarding at a secret coastal spot.
L UNCH SPOT All that stretching and flexing means lunch has been earned, so I head to 52 Espresso (2221 Gold Coast Hwy, Gold Coast). Not only do they serve up great coffee, but their menu also boasts healthy treats like an egg white omelette, roast veggie stack and coconut pancakes.
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WEEKEND WARRIORS
S A ND CL A S SES
BOUNCING B ACK Inflatable World Oz (3 Fremantle Street, Burleigh West; inflatableworldoz.com.au) is fantastic: no lines, no hassles and a brilliant way to get the kids (and the old man) moving.
We head for a cool-down with an educational ocean swim at nearby Burleigh Beach. We spend an hour asking each other questions and writing the answers in the sand. This pic is Harley’s answer to the question: “Are you having fun yet?”
TE A FOR THREE A popular take on a traditional High Tea, the “Man Tea” served up by QT’s Stingray Bar is amazing and more than enough to keep us charged up for a big Saturday evening along the glitter strip that is Surfers Paradise. Think sliders, prawns, Worcestershire pies and Wagyu beef.
DU S T IN
lets the boys blow off steam, tours the GC by bike and catches some street performers.
S AT UR D AY
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BE ACH WA L KING The day starts at 11th Avenue in Palm Beach, with a walk along the beach and a stroll out on the rock wall. It’s a great spot to sit for a while and do a morning meditation or pull up a patch of sand for yoga practice.
SURFING L UNCH
SHOEL ESS CUP OF JOE I make a beeline for Barefoot Barista (shop 5/10 Palm Beach Ave, Palm Beach; barefootbarista.com.au), hoping they can mainline me some of their fantastic coffee. The healthy breakfast options here are downright delicious.
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It’s time to put all that good food energy to use, so I head over to Currumbin Alley. This spot is famous for good surf that works for experienced surfers and newbies. You can get the ultimate workout, without realising it, by taking a learn-to-surf lesson from the Currumbin Alley Surf School (currumbinalleysurfschool.com.au).
DESTINATION GOLD COAST
GC BY BIK E The Gold Coast has a fantastic series of bike paths, so we set out for an evening of exploring by bike. The paths are away from the cars and thus safe for families, and the beauty of riding is that you're going slow enough to check out all the quirky sights.
TA L L TA L ES Looking from our hotel room, the boys were sure that this building (Soul Surfers Paradise) was taller than the Q1 Resort & Spa (Hamilton Avenue, Surfers Paradise; q1.com.au). Upon further research we found that the Q1’s spire makes it just a touch taller.
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S TREE T S A HE A D After dinner and a change of clothes we catch a tram back down to the mall to check out the nightlife. We're thoroughly amused by the street performers, one posing for this photo with my embarrassed son.
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P HOE BE
goes for a beachy stroll, learns to surf and goes cycling along the coast.
LIFE S AV ER
REFUEL LING S TOP Post-surf hunger means it’s time to refuel the body. I visit Tugun Fruit & Flowers (4/467 Golden Four Dr, Tugun; tugunfruitmarket.com.au) to get my hands on one of their beautiful, delicious and healthy Acai Bowls topped with oodles of fresh fruit, coconut and muesli.
SE A AIR C YCL E A few metres away you’ll find Storm Cycles (2/415 Golden Four Dr, Tugun; stormcycles.com.au). Hire a cruiser for the afternoon and get those legs pumping by riding along the pathways that snake along the coastline, breathing in that fresh sea air.
Wanting to enjoy the sunset with views of the water, I do what every self-respecting Queenslander does and head directly to the Currumbin Surf Life Saving Club (741 Pacific Parade, Currumbin; supporters.currumbinslsc. com.au/gold-coast-surf-club). I try their grilled haloumi salad paired with a nice cold beer. Balance is key.
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GOING WITH THE FL OW The FlowRider wave ride may well be the best money I have ever spent. At first I was worried my five-year-old might chicken out, but the staff are amazing and help him get started. Once he gets going he never looks back – the little fella actually couldn’t fall off.
FA BUL OUS BUFFE T BOY S Food was always going to be a trip highlight. On our final day I have promised the boys a full attack of the theme parks, and advised them to load up on enough food to get them through. There isn’t much resistance.
SOA KING IT IN The boys are chomping at the bit to get into the water and have little time for the queues at “big people’s” rides. Never fear, Wet n Wild’s (Pacific Motorway, Gold Coast; wetnwild.com.au) recently opened kid-themed area is an open-plan water wonder world for kids.
DU S T IN
takes to the GC’s famous fun parks, chills at the beach and grabs some sushi.
S UND AY
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GOING GREEN I visit well-loved local favourite, Little Mali (237 Boundary St, Coolangatta) and grab a coffee and a green smoothie. They also do a mean Pink Pataya bowl and serve vegan coconut softserve, CocoWhip, perfect for soothing sweet cravings in a healthy way.
S TA R TING ON HIGH I decide to start the day with a trip up to the Kirra Hill Lookout (1 Garrick St, Coolangatta). It’s a favourite spot of mine for stunning, wide-open views of the coast. It’s also a great spot to sit and people watch.
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SHOPPING TIME I take my smoothie shopping along Griffith Street. There’s a used book store, a few vintage shops, typical beachy boutiques selling kaftans and groovy homewares. There are also a few nice spots to get a massage and unwind in total relaxation for a few hours.
DESTINATION GOLD COAST
TIME TO REL A X Quite a contrast from the high-paced action of “The Worlds” we spend our last daylight hours on the Goldy relaxing on Kirra Beach. Sunny goes for a surf in the gentle waves while Harley and I marvel at the beautiful sunset.
BURNOUT S G A L ORE My fellows are fascinated with anything that goes fast and/or emits a loud noise. Movie World’s (Pacific Motorway, Oxenford; movieworld.com.au) stunt show was a no-brainer for them, and it doesn't disappoint; the show put on by the drivers is top-notch.
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M A KING TR ACK S By this stage the boys are completely famished and we end our trip with a stop at the nearby Coolangatta Sushi Train (Calypso Plaza, 11 McDonald St & Griffith St, Coolangatta; sushitrain.com.au). The boys love the Japanese greetings yelled out by all the staff whenever a new patron enters.
19:00
P HOE BE
SECRE T S WIM To finish off, I visit the Currumbin Rock Pools (Currumbin Creek Rd, Currumbin Valley). This secret swimming hole is only 15 minutes from the coastline. I paddle around and think it makes a chilled-out end to the weekend on the GC.
TIME FOR A TRE AT What’s the point of being healthy if you can’t treat yourself? I make the adult decision to have ice cream for lunch and make a beeline for Gelato Messina (33/72-80 Marine Parade, Coolangatta; gelatomessina.com). After trying every flavour in the shop, I order myself a scoop of chocolate chip. It’s so good!
starts the day with a view, goes shopping and finishes with a secret swimming spot.
DA NGER TIME In need of a lay-down, I drive up to Point Danger and stake out a cosy piece of grass on which to sprawl out. It’s nice just to stop for a while and relax, watching the surfers paddle out while the waves roll in. The soft afternoon sun washes over me.
FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors get in touch.
tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au
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BUDJ BIM
Going with the flow The Tyrendarra lava flow outside of Melbourne is home to an engineering feat older than the Egyptian pyramids. Paul Chai travels to Budj Bim, a site with such Indigenous importance it looks set to be our next World Heritage site. PHOTO LAKE SURPRISE, BUDJ BIM NATIONAL PARK BY GO WILD IMAGES
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BUDJ BIM
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BUDJ BIM
“The story of how the Gunditjmara people farmed eels has changed the perception of Indigenous Australians as nomads”
T
ravel is all about stories – stories learned, stories heard, stories made. And at Budj Bim, a long-dormant volcano in western Victoria, the traditional owners, the Gunditjmara people, are in the storytelling business. Over 30,000 years ago, the creation spirit Budj Bim revealed himself in the landscape by forming a huge volcano that we now know as Mt Eccles. Budj Bim then shared his blood and his teeth with his people in the form of a lava flow that transformed this area into a series of wetlands. This is Gunditjmara country, scrub-filled lowlands with seasonal swamps, scattered lumps of porous volcanic rock and clear streams full of waving reeds, blackfish, platypus and short-finned eels. The story of how the Gunditjmara people managed to farm these eels, or kooyang, nearly 7,000 years ago – pre-dating the building of both the Pyramids of Giza and Stonehenge – has made it all the way to UNESCO in a bid for world heritage status. It has also changed the perception of Indigenous Australians as nomads.
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The Gunditjmara people brought water from Darlots Creek to them by digging a series of channels and creating weirs and ponds in the wetlands. They also placed woven eel baskets in gaps in the weirs to catch the eels; other woven baskets were used to divert the eels further down stream once the ponds were full, like a series of water gates. The eels were then captured, placed on sticks and smoked with peat inside hollow trees for five to seven days. This year-round supply of food, as well as side dishes of kangaroo and berries, meant the Gunditjmara gave up their nomadic life building stone huts alongside their eel farms and within sight of the revered and nowdormant Budj Bim. The smoked eel was even used as a trading commodity with the nearby Grampians mob, so the Gunditjmara could get flint for their spear tips. Eileen Alberts used to walk through these eel channels as a child with her uncle who taught her how to feel for the eels with her toes. She's now a Gunditjmara elder and
BUDJ BIM
Trip details Budj Bim DISTANCE 1,053 kilometres round trip. Melbourne to Portland via the Hamilton Highway and returning via the Great Ocean Road to the 12 Apostles, then Melbourne via Colac.
CAR 4x4 Isuzu MU-X LS-T, courtesy of Northern Isuzu Ute; isuzuute.com.au
TOUR INFO The best way to experience Budj Bim is via Budj Bim Tours. All tours leave from the Budj Bim Orientation Centre in Heywood, where you receive a welcome from your guide and an introductory video and interpretive talk. Then you jump on the tour bus and head out in the Budj Bim Landscape. For more information, budjbimtours.com.
teller of the area’s stories. We're spending the day with Eileen, her daughter Jody and granddaughter Talara as part of a tour of this historic site by Budj Bim Tours. Walking along a wooden walkway, the surrounding birdsong turned up to 11, we're shown the deep furrows of the eel channels, the stone huts with rudimentary wooden roofs and the wooden weirs. We also come upon two house-sized mounds of volcanic basalt that burst from the green grass. They are lava blisters, giant bubbles formed when molten rock pushes up against the earth’s crust – but there's a story to these formations as well. The rainbow serpent laid her eggs here and asked Budj Bim to cover them with his blood and teeth to keep them safe, and when the volcano erupts again, the serpent will come ê back to collect them.
exploring western victoria Going to Budj Bim you find the Petrified Forest (left), Lake Condah Mission (right) and Cape Bridgewater (above).
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BUDJ BIM
rock formations of budj bim The Fresh and Salty sculpture (below), a house on Lake Condah Mission (right) and a lookout at Lake Surprise.
The tour takes us from the lava flow at Tyrendarra, through root-strewn farm tracks that make us glad we have a borrowed Isuzu MU-X four-wheel drive. Bumping our way through a farm gate we come across a mountainous sculpture of dry-walled volcanic rock that Eileen tells us is a modern artwork called Fresh and Salty. “This depicts the fresh and salty, the path of the short-finned eel that goes from the fresh water to the sea, up near Vanuatu, to spawn,” she says. “The structure is in the shape of one of our round houses, and the spiral with an opening means everyone is welcome here to come out on country.” Lunch is at the Kurtonitj Indigenous Protected Area where we sit with the three generations of Gunditjmara women and hear more stories of their fight for native title and
WHERE TO STAY QUEST APARTMENT HOTELS The Portland Branch of Quest is well positioned as a base for exploring Budj Bim. The apartments are walking distance to the restaurants and waterfront of Portland and just a half-hour drive to Heywood where you start your tour. Rooms are simple but well-kept with cooking facilities and two-bedroom options for families. 66 Julia Street, Portland; questapartments.com.au
their passion for making sure these stories of country survive. “You are made up of all those people that have gone before,” says Eileen, as we share a meal of smoked eel, kangaroo and a Warrigal green dip that sees my kids go nuts over a vegetable. “You need to add your own stories to that, so that your children will become you and all that has come before and then they will build on it in a positive way.” After we eat (the eel is exceptional!) we travel to the Lake Condah Mission and a far more sombre story emerges. The nearby ê coastal town of Portland was the first
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area in Victoria for European settlement and eventually the Gunditjmara were resettled at the mission. It was in these missions that the Stolen Generations began and the stories, language and dance of the traditional owners were almost stamped out. We arrive at the mission mid-afternoon, the sun bathing the crumbling buildings in that light that photographers love, it’s tranquility a far cry from when several families would inhabit one small house. An overgrown garden of wild garlic grows in the centre of the mission and our kids overturn rocks looking for millipedes. There's a simple cross where the church once stood, and where Eileen was baptised. The original structure was blown up using 13 sticks of dynamite to declare an end to the mission days, and Indigenous people and whites stood together to watch the building fall. Lake Condah itself is full of hundreds of black swans and a handful of native brolgas
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that are returning to the area after a long absence. Wisps of spider web float through the air and Eileen says she wants visitors to Budj Bim to take with them an awareness of what she calls “land knowledge”. “The knowledge that no matter where they go, there is always going to be people like us that care for country and it is that ê passion for caring for country,” she says.
TRAVEL TIP GREAT OCEAN ROAD Portland is a four-hour drive from Melbourne, but on your return if you have time you can visit the western end of the Great Ocean Road. Join the Great Ocean Road just outside of Warrnambool where you can visit the coastal landmarks like the Bay of Islands, the Arch of Erosion and London Bridge (spoiler alert: it has fallen down) before finishing up the very slick 12 Apostles visitors centre. Then head inland to Colac and the A1 and you'll be back in Melbourne in about 2 hours 40 minutes from the Apostles (pictured above).
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BUDJ BIM
a l and full of stories You can stop for pizza in Port Fairy (below) or climb Fresh and Salty (right)
Things to do CAPE BRIDGEWATER
“And when you go back to where you come from, you’re going to, I hope, go with a little bit more enthusiasm to find out more about the place that you come from.” The tour winds up in the Budj Bim National Park, where we drive to the top of the crater and discover the aptly named Lake Surprise. What appears to be just a very steep hill suddenly turns into a crater lake, rimmed by pale white stones and full of water birds carving V-shapes in the still water. The lake was named by Major Thomas Mitchell when he first came across the lake in the 19th century, but my wife thinks he didn’t go far enough and the lake is such a big reveal that it should come with some added exclamation marks.
Budj Bim means “High Head”, and there's one parting story before we farewell Eileen and her family. Important Gunditjmara men wear emu-feather shoes; these allow the men to walk more quietly and to hide their tracks. The men in the emu-feather shoes used to walk to the highest point of the Budj Bim crater, known as the spirit’s brow, and from this point they could observe burial rites that took place on Deen Maar Island just off the coast. The view is obscured by gum tree plantations now but, out of respect, only the wearers of emu-feather shoes are supposed to stand on the crater’s highest point. As the sun goes down our Gunditjmara guides leave us to take the hour-long walk around the crater rim, and we're careful to stay away from its peak. The park currently has a serious (but also seriously cute) pest problem: an oversupply of koalas. Every few hundred metres we see this languid marsupial stretching in the branches of eucalypts and dark-brown wallabies skitter in front of us as we do our lap of honour around the one-time volcano’s rim. We've added our story to this historic hilltop, but we've taken many more stories away with us.
t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations. tigerair.com.au
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A 15-minute drive outside of Portland is the Cape Bridgewater Blowholes and the Petrified Forest. The black basalt blowholes spray seawater skyward during rough seas, but it's the spooky faux tree stumps of the Petrified Forest that are the highlight. Once thought to be trees that had turned to stone over thousands of years, the “forest” was later discovered to be formed by limestone tubes. Either way the result is an ethereal moonscape on a dramatic clifftop.
PORTL AND CABLE TRAM DEPOT & MUSEUM These historic trams date back to the 1800s and operate on a cable pulley system. Take a ride on the trams or visit the tram museum, an eclectic collection of model trains and trams coupled with a huge collection of gemstones and petrified wood including one tree limb that dates back to the Jurassic Period, 150 million years ago. 2a Bentinck Street, Portland; portlandcabletrams.com.au
C O F F I N S A L LY Time your trip to have dinner in Port Fairy at this petite pizzeria with a bar out back decorated in animal skulls and bones, candles and natural wood. The pizzas are thin, crisp and have great-quality ingredients on top, and they wash down well with a local ale or two. 33 Sackville St, Port Fairy
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*zinc, selenium, biotin. Visit www.trx2.com to check the 18-month study results ti g e ra ir.co m
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BALI
Living la vida Bali Many Australians fall so in love with Bali that they never leave. Ian Lloyd Neubauer gets the lowdown on three very different parts of Bali where expats choose to work, rest and play.
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BALI
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very week, some 20,000 Australians fly to Bali on holidays. Some of them fall so deeply in love with it that they refuse to leave and instead make the Indonesian island their home. But they generally don't hang out at the restaurants and resorts of Kuta and Legian. Rather, they find their own little slices of paradise away from the crowds.
WORK CANGGU Living in a villa nestled among rice fields – that's the dream many expats harbour when contemplating life in Bali. But as the more-visited parts of the island become increasingly developed, expats are migrating en masse to Canggu. A half-hour drive north of Seminyak, Canggu has retained a rural feel while at the same time emerging as a hub for fashion, design and health food. “I moved here for the waves and the lifestyle and discovered Canggu was a bit quieter and nicer to live in than the touristy areas,” says Perth-born Justin Masters of Betelnut Café (Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong No.60, Canggu), a treehouse-style eatery with rice-field views. “It was the same for me,” says Gypsy Wilson-Webster, whose vegetarian restaurant The Shady Shack is the new “it” cafe in Canggu (Jl. Tanah Barak No.57, Canggu; facebook.com/Theshadyshackbali). “I started out in Seminyak but wanted something a lot quieter so I moved up here.” Across the road from The Shady Shack is The Temple of Enthusiasm – the Balinese headquarters of Australian custom-motorbike manufacturer Deus Ex Machina (Jalan Batu Mejan No. 8, Canggu; deuscustoms.com/cafes/canggu). In addition to the motorbike showroom, the temple houses a surfboard shaping workshop, retail space, barber shop, Italian restaurant, cafe, bar and an open-air event space where expats, tourists and locals rock to free live music every Sunday night.
Back towards the beach is Dojo Bali, aka Silicon Bali (No. 88 Jalan Batu Mejan Canggu, Echo Beach; dojobali.org), a co-working space where $15 gives drop-ins unlimited daily access to a variety of desks and meeting rooms, bullet-fast Wi-Fi, Skype booths, a smoothie bar, a swimming pool and the opportunity to network with Bali's hottest digital nomads. “Think of this as an on-ramp to the expat community,” says owner Michael Craig, a software wiz from Perth. Come sunset, everyone in Canggu heads down to Old Mans (facebook.com/ oldmansbali), an al fresco restaurant and dayclub set on world-famous Echo Beach – Bali's original surf mecca. The waves are well-rounded, the food and beer are dirt cheap and the views are as unobstructed as they were when travellers first started coming to Bali half a century ago. “There will probably be a day when the big hotels arrive here,” says Kelly Sturgeon, CEO of the Canggu Club (JL Pantai Berawa, Banjar Tegal Gundul, Canggu; cangguclub. com). “But for now Canggu still has that rural feeling, so people are intrigued in ê learning what it's all about.”
“There will probably be a day when the big hotels arrive here, but for now Canggu still has that rural feeling” INSIDER'S TIP Love waterparks but hate queues and crappy food? The Canggu Club has a world-class waterpark with three nail-biting five-storey waterslides where you walk right through, plus a bistro that puts on an awesome Sunday roast. Entry is $30 or $18 for kids. cangguclub.com
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REST NORTHERN BALI Bali is renowned for its beaches. But for expats living there, not every day is a beach. They have jobs, chores and deadlines like the rest of us. When the pressure gets too much, the most in-the-know escape to Bali's north-coast – the least-visited and most untouched part of the island. The road from the airport to the north coast meanders through verdant green rice terraces, ancient villages, colossal lakes and up mistshrouded mountains before dropping down to Singaraja, Bali's northern port. From Singaraja, continue west along black lava beaches for an hour to Pemuteran, a laid-back seaside village and hub for dive centres and resorts. Every morning, boats packed with divers and snorkellers depart from Pemuteran for a half-hour cruise through neon-blue waters to Menjangan Island. Part of West Bali National Park, Menjangan is surrounded by fringing reefs bursting with marine life – moray eels, eagle rays, grouper, snapper, parrot fish and lobster. “The water in this part of Bali is very calm, especially from April to July, so it's very good for beginners who've never been snorkelling before,” says Saif of the Werner Lau Diving Centre (facebook.com/WernerLauDC). Menjangan Island is also home to Pura Gili Kencana, a candy-coloured temple set on limestone rock. There are seven more Hindu temples around Pemuteran, including Melanting, a 15th century edifice on the foothills of Mount Pulaki; and Pemuteran, where Balinese dancers and xylophone ensembles can be seen practising their ancient art in the afternoon.
“The water in this part of Bali is very calm, especially from April to July, so it's very good for beginners” No trip to northern Bali is complete without a stop at Sembangan, a fairytale-like village hidden in the hills above Singaraja where locals are so happy they actually sing while they walk. Park at Shanti Resort and ask one of their friendly guides to take you to the Secret Garden, a real-life Garden of Eden with four different waterfalls. The largest, Aling-Aling Waterfall, is a roaring 35m cascade ensconced in virgin jungle and has a natural stone waterslide that drops into a crystal-clear pool. “You should come to northern Bali because it's beautiful, it's peaceful and it's untouched,” says Koman Yas Artika of Shanti Resort (Desa Sambangan, Kecamatan Sukasada, SIngaraja; shanti-northbali.com). “We don't have bars or nightclubs. But we ê have peace with nature.”
INSIDER'S TIP Ever heard of Balinese wine? The largest vineyard is found on the north coast near the village of Seririt, where Hatten Wines has been growing wine grapes with specially designed overhead trellises for more than 20 years. Drop in from Monday to Saturday for free wine-tasting and vineyard tours. hattenwines.com
bali's underwater beaut y Some of Bali's best diving is on nearby Menjangan Island.
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BALI s a l u t e t o t h e w av e s Nusa Lembongan is a small island where expats do yoga and surf.
PLAY NUSA LEMBONGAN
“Along with Mozambique, it's also one of the top two places in the world to see manta rays”
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A half hour's boat ride from the Bali but a million metaphorical miles away, Nusa Lembongan is a small island expats regard as their island playground. “This place was discovered by surfers about 10 years and it was very much a backpacker destination to start,” says Mark Smith of the Sandy Bay Beach Club (Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Penida, Kec. Klungkung; sandybaylembongan.com), a rustic, oceanfront eatery in the south-west corner of the island. “Now it's booming here and the amount of weekend traffic we get from expats living in Bali is extraordinary. We're also seeing a lot of travellers skipping Bali altogether and coming here directly from the airport. In Perth they call it Bali's Rottnest Island.” Nusa Lembongan has three offshore surf breaks: Playground, Lacerations and Shipwrecks. Surfers rarely have to share the waves there or at Secret Point, a massive righthand break on neighbouring Nusa Ceningan island. “I've been surfing here for five years,” says Scott Davis of Western Australia. “It's starting to get a little more crowded, but it's far less crowded than the waves in Bali.”
Apart from surfing, Lembongan is a renowned for two other activities: yoga, with new little studios popping up all over the island, and diving in the Nusa Penida Marine Park, a newish biosphere reserve protecting the technicolour reefs surrounding the island. “This is one of the top dive destinations in Indonesia,” says Andrew Taylor of Blue Corner Dive (Jalan Raya Jungut Batu, Jungutbatu; bluecornerdive.net). “Along with Mozambique, it's also one of the top two places in the world to see manta rays.” There are no traffic or push hawkers on Nusa Lembongan. But the one thing it does share with Bali is the range of delicious and affordable food. For breakfast, head to Tigerlilly’s on Jungut Batu Beach (tigerlillysnusalembongan.com) for the “healthy start”: a riot of poached eggs, smashed avocado, rocket and cherry tomatoes, mint, feta and lime served on gluten-free bread. For lunch, try Hai Bar & Grill on Mushroom Bay (Hai Tide Beach Resort; haitidebeachresort.com) for a wood-fired pizza or prawn-tail salad. For dinner, book a beachfront table at Indiana Kenanga (Jl. Pantai Jungut Batu No. 56, Desa Jungut Batu; indiana-kenanga-villas.com), a French brasserie that cooks up delicious ê Australian beef tenderloin.
INSIDER'S TIP There are a dozen different cruise boats operating between Sanur in Bali and Nusa Lembongan, but Rocky Fast Cruises offers the fastest and safest transfer. rockyfastcruise.com
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Fare Report No. 001
BALI
Luxury Bali stays For a special occasion, or splitting a luxe stay with a group of friends.
VILLA CANGGU If the Rolling Stones were to visit Bali today, they'd probably stay at Villa Canggu. Available in two- to eight-bedroom configurations, this whitewashed palace only metres from the beach leaves no stone unturned in the pursuit of luxury. There's a surround-sound system guests control through their smartphones, thought-inspiring murals and sculptures, two swimming pools lined with daybeds, indoor and outdoor dining areas plus a phalanx of staff: chefs, butlers, spa therapists and babysitters. Best rate $360 as a two-bedroom villa until June 15 or from September to December 20 Vibe Rock star excess elitehavens.com
MATAHARI BEACH RESORT & SPA Imagine a tropical garden manicured to an inch of its life spotted with lily ponds, pools, water fountains, bougainvillea trees and statues of Hindu gods backdropped by towering mountains and fronted by a sparkling sea. A fantasy or the set of a Bollywood movie? No, it's Matahari Beach Resort & Spa, a 5-star resort in Pemuteran village styled after Bali's famous Tirta Ganga Water Palace. There are only 32 luxury bungalows featuring intricate hand-carved wooden doors, marble flooring, king-size four-poster beds, oversize bathtubs and outdoor showers with moss-covered dragon-head spigots. Best rate $375 until July 9 and throughout October Vibe Balinese water palace matahari-beach-resort.com
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THE BEACH SHACK It's called The Beach Shack, though it's anything but. With giant front doors, oversize living and dining area, open-plan kitchen, three double bedrooms and floor-to-ceiling folding doors that open up to a covered verandah, barbecue area, lawn and swimming pool with beachfront access to Sandy Bay, The Beach Shack is the perfect place to live like a king on Nusa Lembongan – if only for one day. Best rate $600 as a one-bedroom villa from September-June Vibe Shabby beach-chic nusalembonganvillas.com
far from roughing it Despite its name, The Beach Shack is actually a luxurious Bali address.
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ROUTE MAP
Where to next? Tigerair serves 11 destinations in Australia – as well as Denpasar, Bali
denpasar
darwin
tigerair bases cairns
whitsunday coast
brisbane gold coast coffs harbour perth
sydney adelaide melbourne (tullamarine)
FOR AN UP-TO-THE-MINUTE LIST OF OUR DESTINATIONS, VISIT TIGERAIR.COM.AU
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TIGERAIR NEWS
Tigerair says “Hi” to Bali
Flying with the Purple Pride
Inaugural international flights to Bali a big step forward
T
igerair Australia is celebrating the launch of the low-cost airline’s first international routes, after the inaugural flight to Denpasar kicked off on March 23 this year. The airline now operates daily flights to one of Australia’s most popular international holiday destinations from Melbourne and Perth – and five times a week from Adelaide. Tigerair CEO Rob Sharp said he was excited about the overseas expansion. “This is a significant milestone for Tigerair Australia as we continue to grow in line with consumer demand,” said Sharp. “Bali is renowned as a popular holiday destination for many Australians looking for an affordable tropical holiday year round and we are confident our new services will prove popular with our core market of leisure travellers.”
The first customers aboard the inaugural Tigerair international flight were farewelled in Melbourne with a special Balinese-themed check- in experience and greeted on arrival at Denpasar Airport with a traditional Balinese welcome featuring local dancers. Tigerair Australia is using three recently reconfigured Boeing 737-800 aircraft for its international services. These aircraft feature 180 all economy seats, including five rows of seats with extra legroom (18 seats in the front of the cabin and 12 seats in exit rows). For the first time, passengers will also be able to access a mix of free and paid wireless in-flight entertainment for use on their own devices on-board the new international services. Check out the great value airfares at tigerair.com.au.
Tigerair Australia recently flew ten Storm fans from Melbourne to Brisbane and had them sitting alongside their NRL heroes. To make their flight even more memorable, the Storm contingent travelled onboard Tigerair’s "Cameron Smith" A320 aircraft, which was rebadged with Melbourne Storm livery and named after the Storm skipper. “As official airline partner of the Melbourne Storm, we are passionate about continuing to provide Storm fans and members with a host of exciting new experiences and opportunities to help them see their team in action more often,” said Tigerair Australia Commercial Director Adam Rowe.
V E L O C I T Y P O I N T S VA L I D O N T I G E R A I R Tigerair Australia recently announced that Velocity Frequent Flyer members would be able to use points across the Tigerair network. Members now have the option of using either Velocity Points or a combination of Points and credit card payment when making a booking on Tigerair Australia. Tigerair Australia Commercial Director, Adam Rowe, said the announcement is another example of Tigerair Australia’s ongoing commitment to providing more value and choice for consumers than ever before. “We are very excited to be partnering with Velocity Frequent Flyer, and to offer this new opportunity for Velocity members to use their Velocity Points to travel on our network,” said Rowe. “Tigerair Australia now flies to 12 destinations, providing a great redemption opportunity for Velocity members.”
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TIGERAIR NEWS
Tigerair launches MoveMe New product innovation makes for more flexible flying Tigerair Australia has launched a new product, MoveMe, that gives passengers an affordable and convenient way to change their Tigerair flights on short notice. For a small fee, MoveMe gives Tigerair customers who arrive early or late to the airport the option of transferring to another service on the same route without incurring any additional change fees. MoveMe is available on Tigerair services between Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane, provided that sufficient seats are available and the replacement flight is on the same day of travel. MoveMe customers running late for their flight have up until 15 minutes after their original scheduled time of departure to approach the Tigerair check-in counters and be moved to
the next available flight free of charge. Alternatively, “early birds” who have purchased MoveMe are able to move to an earlier flight. MoveMe customers who are running early are required to present at the check-in desk for the earlier flight no earlier than two hours prior to the earlier departure time and no later than 45 minutes before the earlier flight’s departure time. Tigerair Australia Commercial Director Adam Rowe said MoveMe
Tigerair reaches the 19-million mark Airline celebrates another passenger milestone 88
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will help take the stress out of flying for those who may need to change their plans. “Essentially, MoveMe is a low-cost version of a 'flexi fare' for same day travel on selected routes where we have the most frequency and will likely be popular with passengers who are unsure about which flight they want to take on the day and passengers who have booked in advance and need to change their plans,” he said.
Tigerair Australia recently flew its 19 millionth passenger – Lucy MacPherson, her partner Jaimee-Lee Jeffs and their daughter Aibel – who flew from Melbourne on-board flight TT228 to Sydney. Lucy and her family were met at Melbourne Airport upon departure and presented with three $190 vouchers to put towards future travel on the Tigerair network. “We’re regular Tigerair customers and winning these travel vouchers has been a great way to start the day,” said Lucy. “We’re heading up to Sydney to catch up with family today and we’ll definitely put these vouchers towards a return trip to visit them again later in the year.”
Head of Communications, Vanessa Regan, says reaching the 19 millionth passenger milestone is another significant achievement for Tigerair Australia as it continues to deliver on its promise of being Australia’s most reliable low cost airline. “Tigerair Australia has delivered consistently great value fares since we commenced domestic operations in November 2007 and we are also now delivering consistently on time services and industry-lowest cancellation rates, which is what our customers want,” she said. “Everyone loves low fares and on-time flights, with more money in their pocket to spend when they get there.”
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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
Malls
Shopping
Fashion, design, sporting kit or just a wander and a window shop. The Tigerair network has it in the bag. BY CONNOR MCLEOD
Bourke Street Mall It’s Melbourne’s shopping heart, the pedestrian mall fronted by the big two, Myer and David Jones, and linked to mega-mall Melbourne Central. There is also Melbourne’s GPO, the postal building from 1864 that now has a range of high-end retail including the first Australian store of Swedish affordable fashion giant H&M. And you're never far from a laneway to grab a coffee in, or some outsider art from the Outre Gallery on Elizabeth Street. Melbourne visitvictoria.com
Rundle Mall Beat feet along Australia’s first pedestrianised shopping hub, Rundle Mall, in the heart of Adelaide for fashion brands from Alex Perry to Alexander McQueen. This is the city’s meeting place, where you can browse the big department stores or wander through some of the smaller arcades. You can even meet for an after-work drink at bars like the Coopers Burger Shack or Harry’s Bar. Adelaide rundlemall.com
Pitt Street Mall Zara, GAP, Sportsgirl and H&M – all the big stores congregate around Sydney’s premier pedestrian shopping spot alongside the requisite Myer and DJs. But, unlike other big-city shopping malls, a big plus of Pitt Street is you're just a stone’s throw from the greenery of Hyde Park if you need to get away from the commercial chaos. Sydney pittstreetmall.com.au
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S H O P P I N G
THE SPOT
Gertrude St, Fitzroy
T
his once-sleepy strip in fashionable Fitzroy used to be better known as a dining destination, with restaurants like Andrew McConnell’s Melbourne institution, Cutler & Co, drawing foodies from miles away. But with the great eating has come great shopping and now there are a range of stores well worth a visit. There's the quilted, wintry goodness of Cottage Industry and the serious cycle store Saint Cloud, Melbourne-via-London designer success story Megan Park and the perfectly – and succinctly – named Books for Cooks. You can get your vintage on at Tarlo & Graham where you can find quirky retro pieces from taxidermy to tribal art. Retro is also front and centre of the
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Melbourne outlet of Sydney’s Faster Pussycat, a mid-century marvel of moustache combs, statement belt buckles, backseam pantyhose and old-skool Wayfarers. But one of the main reasons to shop along this strip is that it still feels like a quiet suburban street. It's a pleasant, leafy stroll past shopfronts that are generally locally owned and operated. You can stop in for a light bistro lunch at the white-washed interior of Marion Wine Bar, the latest notch in McConnell’s Fitzroy belt, next door to its upmarket sibling Cutler & Co. Or get some simple but delicious tapas at Anada. Gertrude Street is more than just a place to bag a bargain – it's a great day out. gertrudestreet.com.au
BROOKLYN ARTS HOTEL For a stay that matches the boho surrounds you have to spend the night at this quirky, art-packed hotel just off Gertrude Street set in a beautiful old Victorian terrace house. 48-50 George St Fitzroy; brooklynartshotel.com.au
THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
Future Shelter A husband-and-wife design team sell their seriously funky wares at this North Perth shop. Prints, lampshades, T-shirts and homewares all get pride of place on the Future Shelter shelves. You can see what's currently in the shop with a look at the couple’s blog – but it's more fun to just go in and browse. Perth futureshelter.blogspot.com.au
Design
RedBubble pop-up shop July sees a physical store appear from Australia’s hottest online design site. After a six-month residency in the Melbourne headquarters, three artists will come together to show, and sell, what they've created for RedBubble, a website that helps artists bring their designs – from T-shirts to homewares to phone covers – to market. Check it out in the flesh. Melbourne redbubble.com
Top3 By Design What started as a small, and impossibly hip, design store in the north of Sydney now has four retail outlets in Melbourne and Sydney and a thriving online store that ships their design-savvy wares, from wooden kids toys to pillowcases, all over Australia. The website is top-notch and made for browsing – you're unlikely to leave here without having done some credit card damage. Sydney top3.com.au
Outlet stores Harbour Town Gold Coast
DFO Essendon
Birkenhead Point Outlet Centre
Appliance Warehouse Coffs Harbour
The range of stores at this branch of Harbour Town is very broad. You can buy cigars at Cuban Cigar World, get your gamer on at EB Games or buy prints and posters at Art By Leonardo’s. There are the usual fashion names as well as a range of kids clothing like Pumpkin Patch and Seed, and the outlet mall recently launched a Free Tourist Shuttle bus to the Centre from Broadbeach and Surfers Paradise. Gold Coast harbourtowngoldcoast.com.au
One of the best-known names in outlet shopping with malls across Australia, the Essendon outlet is full of big names like Sheridan, Peter Alexander and Bonds. For a shopping diversion, this area is also home to one of Australia’s new distilleries, New World Whisky. Started in 2004, this distillery set up by David Vitale makes for a nice place to end your shopping expedition. Melbourne dfo.com.au
One of the more scenic outlet shopping options is Sydney’s waterside Birkenhead Point. There are over 120 outlet stores here including Industrie, Polo Ralph Lauren, Esprit and Armani, as well as sports brands like Nike and Lorna Jane. And for a time out you can grab some food from the food court and sit outside overlooking the water while fighting off the feisty seagulls. Sydney birkenheadpoint.com.au
If you're after some goodvalue white goods then this centre on the mid-north coast is the one for you. With kitchenware, refrigerators, washing machines and dishwashers this is where the canny locals shop to get a good deal on some big-ticket items. Renovators can take a look online for the latest deals. Coffs Harbour awcoffs.com.au
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Collect
S H O P P I N G
Perth Mint The Perth Mint’s original gold receiving room has been turned into a shop where visitors can browse gold, silver and platinum coins, natural gold nuggets, fine jewellery and an exclusive range of giftware. The Mint is an authorised stockist of Argyle Pink Diamonds, Ellendale Yellow Diamonds and Kailis Australian Pearls. Try the latest release of Sliver collector coins with cute little koalas on them; or diehard Trekkies will love the bars of gold-pressed latinum, a real-world version of Star Trek’s fictional currency. Perth perthmint.com.au
Castle Collectables Old railway lamps, bohemian crystal bowls, retro typewriters and old signs form just a small part of the vintage and collectable collection at one of Adelaide’s best second-hand dealers. Go picking through the one-off items in a town that has yet to have every single vintage item stripped from these stores. Adelaide facebook.com/castlecollectables
C’s Flashback The best of vintage and collectable second-hand clothing from C’s that dubs itself “kind of like Robin Hood”, hunting down the best frocks and jocks from all over the world and selling them in Newtown, which has defied gentrification to remain Sydney’s home of the university share house. Sydney csflashback.com.au
Kharisma Antiques Selling top-quality Indonesian antiques to Bali travellers since 1998, this shop offers unique homewares, soft furnishings and Indonesian art from all over the archipelago. And don’t worry if you're running low on your baggage allowance – this Bali veteran is able to package and ship any unusual, or unusually large, items that take your fancy. Bali kharismabali.com
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Tour Info Morning Tour – 8am to 12 noon Afternoon Tour – 1.30pm to 5.30pm
Ocean Dynamics
SOUTH MOLLE ADVENTURE
Check In at least 15 minutes prior to departure time at Ocean Dynamics Office, Shop 12,-3312:00pm Port Drive, 8:30am Airlie Beach 4802 (Near Denmans Cellars, Billabong Shop & The Coffee Club)
(3½ hours)
“Whales in the Whitsundays” Tours
Take a trip to South Molle Island riding a Ocean Dynamics added a brand new “Whales in the Whitsundays” tour to their product offerings Cost Yamaha VX jet ski. You will inexplore the crystal 2015 and had a great season – with the highlight being Chalkie the White Whale making an Single $189pp appearance! Jointous on-board Ocean Escape for a four hour tour encompassing whale encounters waters of the Great Barrier Reef enroute and a scenic tour of the Whitsundays Islands. The fast, sporty 30 foot Kevla Cat, Ocean Escape, is Family Package 1 $499Molle (2 adults & 1 child South Island. the way to do it and “escape” the crowds. SOUTH MOLLE ADVENTURE Family Package 2 $599 (2 adults & 2 children
Enjoy the 5 star services while observing these majestic animals in their natural habitat. Complimentary
8:30am - 12:00pm (3½ Family Package 3 $699 hours) (2SOUTH adults & MOLLE 3 children)ADVENTURE refreshments will be served, including soft drinks and water. Take a trip to South Molle Island8:30am riding a- 12:00pm (3½ hours) Take athe tripcrystal to South Molle Island riding a Yamaha VX jet ski. You will explore Yamaha VX jet ski. You will explore the crystal waters of the Great Barrier Reefwaters enroute to of the Great Barrier Reef enroute to South Molle Island. South Molle Island. “Whitsundays Jet Ski Adventures”
Ocean Dynamics
Jet Ski tours operate daily and you do not require any experience or a licence. Two tour options to choose from, including South Molle Island Adventure where you will get to spend some time on the beaches and National Parks of the island, or the Port of Airlie Tour where you will explore the beautiful Airlie Beach coastline. On both tours you will see an abundance of marine life, including turtles, dugongs and fish.
Tour Info
PORT OF AIRLIE ADVENT
1:30pm - 3:00pm (1½ h
This tour is a great all round to all ages. You will depart the pi of Airlie Marina and embark o PORT OF AIRLIE ADVENTURE packed 1 hour jet ski adventur PORT OF AIRLIE 1:30pmADVENTURE - 3:00pm (1½ hours) Beach, Pioneer Bay and surrou This tour is a (1½ great allhours) round tour designed for 1:30pm - 3:00pm all ages. You will depart the picturesque Port
of Airlie Marina and embark on an action This tour is a great all round forchoose Jet Ski tours PORT operate daily and you do not require any experience orpacked a licence. Twotour tourdesigned options to SOUTH MOLLE ADVENTURE OF AIRLIE ADVENTURE 1 hour jet ski adventure around Airlie allsome ages.time YouBeach, willthe depart the picturesque Port South Molle Island Adventure where you will get to spend on beaches and National Parks of Pioneer Bay and surrounds. 8:30am 12:00pm (3½ hours) 1:30pm 3:00pm(1½ hours) of Airlie Marina and embark on tours an action Port of Airlie Tour where you will explore the beautiful Airlie Beach coastline. On both you will see an Take a trip to South Molle Island riding This tour is aturtles, great all round tour designed for packed 1 also houroffers jet skiaadventure around Airlie marine life, including dugongs and fish. Ocean Dynamics wide range of boat tours and a Yamaha VX jet ski. You will exploreJet Skialltours ages.operate You will daily departand the picturesque of any experience or a licence. Two tour options to choose from, including you do not Port require Beach, Pioneer Bay and surrounds. from Beach, Hamilton Island, One & Only Hayman Island and Daydream Island. Visit Whitehaven Bea the crystal waters of the GreatAirlie Barrier Airlie Marina and embark on an action packed South Molle Island Adventure where you will get to spend some time on the beaches and National Parks of the island, or the Reef enroute to South Molle Island. Port of 1 hour ski adventure around Airlie Reef, Beach, Great Barrier and fantastic snorkel locations your tourseeorancharter. AirliejetTour where you will explore the beautiful Airlie Beach coastline. On both on tours you will abundance of Pioneer Bay and surrounds.
marine life, including turtles, dugongs and fish. Ocean Dynamics also offers a wide range of boat tours and private charters from Airlie Beach, Hamilton Island, One & Only Hayman Island and Daydream Island. Visit Whitehaven Beach, Hill Inlet, The operateTripping daily Online and you do not online require any experience orfantastic a licence. Two tour choose from, including Great Barrier Reef, and snorkel locations onoptions your tourto orbookings charter. Special – book before 30 June 2016 and receive discount. This10% is valid for online – enter Tiger Tales Online Special – book online before 30 June 201610% and receive discount. This isonly valid forthe code “TRIPPING
SPECIAL EVENTS, CORPORATE FUNCTIONS & BIRTHDAYS ARE AVAILABLE • CONTACT US FOR A TAILORED
Jet Ski tours outh Molle Island Adventure where youEVENTS, will get to spend some time on the beaches and•National Parks of the island, or the SPECIAL FUNCTIONS BIRTHDAYSto ARE AVAILABLE US FOR A TAILORED QUOTATION online bookings CORPORATE only – enter the code& “TIGER” receive yourCONTACT discount Port of Airlie Tour where youTripping willOnline explore the beautiful Airlie Beach coastline. On both tours you will an abundance ofdiscount. Special – book online before 30 June 2016 and receive 10% discount. This is valid for online bookings only – enter see the code “TRIPPING” to receive your marine life, including turtles, dugongs and fish. Ocean Dynamics also offers a wide range of boat tours and private charters OCEAN DYNAMICS - PORT OF AIRLIE MARINA om Airlie Beach, Hamilton Island, One & Only Hayman Island and Daydream Island. Visit Whitehaven Beach, Hill Inlet, The O C EReef, AN D Y Nfantastic A M I C S snorkel - P O Rlocations T O F A Ion R L your I E Mtour A R Ior NA Great Barrier and charter.
www.oceand.com.au www.oceand.com.au
SPECIAL EVENTS, CORPORATE FUNCTIONS & BIRTHDAYS ARE AVAILABLE • CONTACT US FOR A TAILORED QUOTATION
ping Online Special – book online before 30 07 June 2016 and9150 receive 10% discount.744 This is850 valid for bookings only – enter the code “TRIPPING” to receive your discount. 3226 | 0400 | online info@oceand.com.au
07 3226 9150 | 0400 744 850 | info@oceand.com.au
THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...
S H O P P I N G
Outdoor
Mountain Creek Outdoors Get ready for that Tassie outdoor trek with a visit to Mountain Creek Outdoors in the heart of Hobart. They sell all the gear to keep you warm in the southern winter, from Black Diamond to Icebreaker Merino and Dagger. Hobart mountaincreekoutdoors.com.au
Namaste Outdoor A Bali outdoor store for those who are heading off the beaten track on the Indonesian island. Selling good value local brands like Kelimutu Adventure this is the spot for camping gear, sleeping bags, backpacks and duffles. Bali tokoadventure.com
Adventure Equipment Australia One of Australia’s adventure capitals, Cairns, deserves a top-quality outdoor outfitter, and it has just that in Adventure Equipment Australia. And given Cairns’ Great Barrier Reef location you can also buy personal flotation devices and kayaks for a DIY reef adventure. Cairns adventurequip.com.au
The NT General Store Suppling Top End campers since 1977, the General Store is every bit as quirky and original as one would expect from Darwin. A mix of new gear and an army disposal store, you'll find tents and bedding, outdoor clothes and even freeze-dried food for the hardcore camping brigade. Darwin thentgeneralstore.com.au
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the tale end
Travel is all about stories This issue we look at Sydney and surrounds
As a Sydneysider I love the harbour, but it can be a sea of selfie sticks at the weekend. On a recent weekend wander, my friend Felix and I thought that we might try to give the tourists a run for their money in the selfie department. This is Felix giving it a go. MELBA PROESTOS
3
ADA GLITTER
1
2 I was down from Brisbane for the weekend with my wife and two kids and we were house-sitting a place in Surry Hills. One morning we split up, took a kid each to brunch. My son and I wound up in CafĂŠ Devon and he saw this come out of the kitchen. It is called Little Lost Bread, a kind of pimped French toast and I had to let him order it. ANTHONY ELSMORE
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I love Sydney’s coastline, just the smell of the sea and the great weather. This is from a trip up to Watsons Bay where we stopped off and had a pie along the coast road. I could stand and look at the ocean for ages, and did, which is when my partner snapped me drifting off. Later, we went down for a swim at Narrabeen Beach. We live in Melbourne now and I miss having the surf beaches so close to the city and suburbs.
HELLO SATISFIED
CUSTOMERS
ISUZU UTE AUSTRALIA FINISHED BEHIND ONLY LEXUS IN 2015 ROY MORGAN CUSTOMER SATISFACTION AWARDS AFTER WINNING 2 MONTHLY AWARDS OUTRIGHT (LEVEL WITH SUBARU)*. WITH ANOTHER MONTHLY AWARD EARNED IN JANUARY 2016, ISUZU DRIVERS CAN GO THEIR OWN WAY WITH CONFIDENCE. Discover the Isuzu D-MAX and MU-X for yourself – visit your Isuzu UTE Dealer or isuzuute.com.au
*Results reported by Roy Morgan Research. For more information visit www.customersatisfactionawards.com. 5-star ANCAP safety rating on 4x4 D-MAX Crew Cab models built from November 2013 onwards, 4x2 D-MAX Crew Cab High Ride models built from November 2014 onwards and all MU-X models. ^5 years/130,000km whichever occurs first, for eligible customers. Excludes trays and accessories. >The Capped Price Servicing Program applies to eligible Isuzu UTE vehicles with a warranty start date after 1 January 2015 at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. The program covers the first 6 Scheduled Services in line with the Scheduled Service intervals. Program price subject to change. For full terms & conditions and current pricing visit isuzuute.com.au/service-plus.