Tigertales Aug-Sept 2017

tigertales

TAKE ME AWAY

Australia | August – September 2017

URBAN SCRAWL

➔ We ask street artist David Booth, aka Ghostpatrol, how Melbourne’s public art scene has changed

GOING TO TOWNSVILLE

W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S

GETTING THEIR KICKS

The must-do list for Tigerair’s newest destination

Two very different travellers take on Darwin

Check out Melbourne’s Pub Footy Renegade league

2

ti g e ra ir.co m

ti g e ra ir.co m

3

From day...

...to night

Picture your perfect day Coral Sea Resort, Airlie Beach, Whitsundays Reservations / contact phone number: Free call 1800 075 061 | Phone: 07 4964 1340 Address: 25 Ocean View Avenue, Airlie Beach Q 4802 | Email: weddings@coralsearesort.com 4 ti g e ra ir.co m Website: www.whitsundaywedding.com.au

WELCOME ON BOARD

More services and more value Welcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly Tigerair today

O

ver the past couple of months, we have continued to add more services to our route map, so you can choose to fly to more places than ever before with Tigerair. We also continue to look at ways to enhance the customer experience, with new products and innovations in the pipeline to make booking and flying Tigerair better than ever.

Recently we launched new direct services connecting Brisbane and the Whitsunday Coast. In early June we commenced the only low-cost flights between Brisbane and Perth.

And in late June we commenced the only direct daytime low-cost services between Melbourne and Townsville, offering a convenient and affordable option for Victorians to experience some North Queensland sun and North Queenslanders to immerse themselves in the rich mix of sport, art, food, wine and music on offer in Melbourne. And we’ll keep you posted, as further route developments are expected in the coming months.

We are thrilled to have recently celebrated the completion of the customer experience at Melbourne Airport’s Terminal 4 that now provides a significantly improved experience at our busiest port. This upgrade has almost doubled the departure gate lounge space (now equivalent to two Olympic-size swimming pools) and includes more seating, additional toilet facilities, lift access and improved wayfinding. The days of the “old tin shed” are long in the past.

On a side note, Tigerair’s 24 millionth passenger stepped through the doors of Melbourne Airport in late June, meaning we have flown the equivalent of Australia’s population since commencing operations in Australia in November 2007.

Finally, this month’s Tiger Tales sees the introduction of an exciting new promotion that gives you the chance to win a $500 travel voucher by simply uploading a photo to Instagram. To enter, follow @tigerairaustralia on Instagram and upload a pic from your travels using the hashtag #tigertraveller for your

chance to be featured on our official social media accounts and to win $500 worth of airfares for your next holiday.

More details around this promotion are available on page 98.

To keep up to date with all the latest Tigerair Australia news and deals, remember to follow us on Facebook (Tigerair Australia), Twitter (@TigerairAU) and Instagram (@tigerairaustralia).

Happy travels! We look forward to welcoming you onboard again in the near future.

Peter Wilson, Tigerair Australia Acting CEO

“We are thrilled to have celebrated the completion of the customer experience at Melbourne’s Terminal 4”

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

5

CONTENTS

Destination directory Inside this issue… wherever you’re going, we’ve got you covered

45 ENCOUNTER

d a r w in b y b ik e Discover Darwin on two wheels

Check out our Townsville bucket list.

66 ENCOUNTER

see coffs d if f e r e n t ly There is more than just the beaches.

D R O N E ' S-E Y E VIEW

perth

31

See the Swan River from the sky.

Have the ultimate family trip to Canberra.

42 21

F E AT U R E

street art An interview with Melbourne street artist Ghostpatrol.

Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Designer Cynthia Lau Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott Cover photo David Booth, aka Ghostpatrol, photographed by Samara Clifford

6

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

Advertising Commercial Manager Joe Bird (02) 9186 9104 jbird@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestar Web

Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Publisher Steve Maidens (02) 8188 3670 steve@citrusmedia.com.au Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au

48

© 2017 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder.

Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

7

Luxur y has arrived on the Whitsunday Coast...

F LY D I R E C T T O T H E W H I T S U N D AY C O A S T W I T H T I G E R A I R

OPENING SPECIALS FROM $200 PER NIGHT i g e r a i r .847 c o m 244 [ 8 t1300 | 277 Shute Harbour Road, A i r l i e B e a c h Q L D 4 8 0 2

|

hearthotelwhitsundays.com.au ]

THE POINTY END ra

f u n ê Go family bey f o l on a dt it p he a ,c

sa

nd in

bour Har ffs Co ê Get

Breaking Toast the bread coast 46 15

ov

er

45 13

e v ie w

Brunch in the Yarra Ranges The wineries of Surfers Paradise

a dron e ' s ey

ue ê Take the kid g a s to ll le a b Ca t o nb fo x er o

We have your next great travel stor y

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

9

atch Melbourne's m êW o st u rth n or Pe t h od

THE POINTY END

T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O

ART

F OOD

S AL A The South Australian Living Artists Festival (SALA) celebrates its 20th year with 6,282 artists across 660 free exhibitions.

The city of Adelaide comes alive with events like SALA Parlour, a shipping container on the lawns of the SA Museum.

Adelaide, August; salafestival.com

WINTER N I G H T M AR K E T At the Queen Victorian Market every Wednesday night in August is the Winter Night Market with live music, street food – think MoVida’s tacos and The Fondue Corner – and plenty of design stalls open for business. There are also craft beers and hot drinks.

Melbourne, August;

C H I LD R E N ’ S FISHING CLASSIC Catch your own food along the Townsville foreshore when hundreds of families toss in a line and hope for the best. This friendly comp has been going on for 25 years and gives out awards for the best kids’ catches throughout the day.

Townsville, September 3;

thenightmarket.com.au

childrensfishingclassic.com

AR C H I B ALD, W YN N E AND SULMAN PRIZES The Art Gallery of New South Wales’ annual Archibald, Wynne and Sulman prizes are among the most coveted in the art world. The Archibald portrait prize always engenders fierce debate and the related drawing prizes feature Australia’s best-known artists.

Sydney, until Oct 29; artgallery.nsw.gov.au

MU S IC BIGSOUND Over 60 artists will rock Brisbane as part of Australia’s biggest music industry showcase and conference. Some of the names hoping to get noticed are Triple J faves Alex the Astronaut, Ruby Fields and Winston Surfshirt – plus panels and talks.

Brisbane, September 5-8; bigsound.org.au

F IL M INDIAN FILM F E S T I VAL The Indian Film Festival features over 60 Bollywood films in one of the biggest celebrations of Indian film outside the subcontinent.

The opening night film, Lipstick Under my Burkha, is a controversial but highly regarded choice.

Melbourne, August 10-22; iffm.com.au

10

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

M E LB O U R N E I N T E R NAT I O NAL F I L M F E S T I VAL ( M I F F) Films include The Square, which took home Cannes’ top prize in 2017, as well as French favourite BPM and the Nicole Kidman starrer Top of the Lake: China Girl.

Plus talks and classes.

Melbourne, August 3-20; miff.com.au

R E D B U LL M U S I C AC AD E MY The four-day festival will feature Aboriginal reggae rock band No Fixed Address as well as Coloured Stone performing in Redfern. Pioneering DJ Tony Humphries will join with Mad Racket.

Sydney, August 31 – September 3; facebook.com/ redbullmusicacademy

TigerAir? How about a Tiger Bungalow!!

A Room with a Zoo...

Unforgettable Dining

Giraffe Treehouse

Jamala Wildlife Lodge in Canberra offers 3 very different accommodation facilities and is amongst the most unique animal lodges in the world. You can stay in uShaka Lodge with its own shark tank, in a Jungle Bungalow virtually built into the habitat of a bear, lion, tiger or cheetah, or in a Giraffe Treehouse where you hand feed your tall neighbour. Included are afternoon and morning tours, 5 star accommodation, gourmet meals and fine wines. Dining is in the uShaka Lodge tropical rainforest cave where you will be joined by magnificent white lions and hyenas.

Ph: 02 6287 8444 | Fax: 02 6287 8403 Email: info@jamalawildlifelodge.com.au Web: www.jamalawildlifelodge.com.au Address: 999 Lady Denman Drive, Canberra ACT 2611

world Leading Australian Forex Broker SAFER FASTER & LowER CoST! Vantage FX is an Australian regulated Forex broker, providing traders access to the global Forex market through top tier FX liquidity providers. www.vantagefx.com

Sydney office

Melbourne office

Level 29, 31 Market Street, Sydney, NSw, 2000 Phone: +61 2 8999 2044

Level 8, 90 Collins Street, Melbourne, VIC, 3000 Phone: +61 3 9093 3460

Risk warning: Trading forex and derivatives carries a high level of risk to your capital and you should only trade with money you can afford to lose.

Trading derivatives may not be suitable for all investors, so please ensure that you fully understand the risks involved, and seek independent advice if necessary. Past performance is no guarantee of future performance and tax laws may be subject to change.

THE POINTY END

Tour the wineries of the Gold Coast

L

et’s be honest, the Gold Coast isn’t the first place you think of when you consider wineries – let alone good wine. Look behind the glitz, though, and you’ll find a small but growing group of winemakers creating wines that go perfectly with the food and lifestyle you associate with the sunshine state. We visit five of the best:

award-winning Wild Ferment Chardonnay) and some perfectly paired pure artisan cheese, and head to the outside seating area. The children can play amongst the vineyards, climb the trees, or challenge each other with the giant chess set.

A perfect way to spend an afternoon.

79 Main Western Road, Tamborine Mountain; witchesfalls.com.au

WORDS CHARMAINE YABSLEY

Witches Falls The only working winery on Mt Tamborine, Witches Falls offers three ranges of wines: Granite Belt, Wild Ferment and Prophecy. The winery has been awarded the prestigious 5 red star status by wine critic James Halliday. Enjoy a tasting in the cosy cellar door, then choose a bottle (we liked the

O’Reilly’s Canungra Valley Vineyards Step back in time as you enter the doorway of the beautifully restored “Killowen” Queenslander homestead, and enjoy a tasting of the results from their 4,000 vines. Choose your tipple of choice (we loved the Picnic Bubbles) and settle on the ê

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

13

THE POINTY END wide verandahs with your wine and pre-ordered picnic basket (the Vintage Restaurant is open Friday to Sunday).

On weekends there’s live entertainment, and the kids can explore the extensive grounds, or head to the creek where they might be lucky enough to spot a platypus.

852 Lamington National Park Road, Canungra; oreillys.com.au

Sirromet

“Choose your tipple of choice (we loved the Picnic Bubbles) and settle in with a pre-ordered picnic basket“

Just out of the GC, overlooking Moreton Bay and Stradbroke island, Sirromet offers it all: wine, entertainment and a view. Join the winery tour to learn more about the vines and how their wines are made, before enjoying lunch at Restaurant Lurleen’s or the Italian-inspired menu at the Tuscan Terrace. Best of all, Sirromet plays host to several “A Day on the Green” events throughout the year, so check out their website for what’ll be on when you visit.

850 Mount Cotton Road, Mount Cotton; sirromet.com

BUBBLES IN THE SUN Grabbing a picnic at O'Reilly's Canungra Valley Vineyard is a hidden Gold Coast secret.

14

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

"KILLOWEN" HOMESTEAD AT O'REILLY 'S VINE YARD IS A S TEP BACK IN TIME

Cedar Creek An enormous winery set amidst a wildlife corridor, you can easily spend the afternoon here without anybody in the family becoming bored. Send the kids on the glow-worm tour, where they’ll learn everything they ever wanted to know about larvae. Go for lunch on the deck overlooking the Wild Duck Lake and frog sanctuary, and stay for the wine (the winery is famous for its two varieties of grape, verdelho and chambourcin) – and don’t miss out on trying the chocolate port.

104-144 Hartley Road, North Tamborine; cedarcreekestate.com.au

Ocean View Estate A bit more of a drive, but well worth it for those heading to the Gold Coast or Brisbane airports. The award-winning restaurant at this winery has an impressive menu – don’t miss the pork jowl, crispy pigs ears, sour apple, nettle puree, bacon dashi, bonito, and the exquisitely cooked and presented barramundi.

Follow it with the locally sourced goats’ cheese platter while sitting on the verandah overlooking the vines. Head for a tasting and dinner, and stay for an overnight experience.

One- or two-bedroom cabins, complete with a private spa bath on the deck, mean you’ll ease into your morning. Request a breakfast hamper and you can fry up brekky on the barbie before heading for a tour of the winery.

2557 Mt. Mee Road, Ocean View; oceanviewestates.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to the Gold Coast from Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

15

THE POINTY END

Why I live in

s y dne y

Young soprano Stacey Alleaume actually lives in Melbourne but spends half of her year in Sydney to perform with Opera Australia at the Sydney Opera House. Her starring roles have included Gretel in Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel, Pamina in Mozart's The Magic Flute and Rosina in Rossini's The Barber of Seville.

What makes Sydney a great place to live?

Sydney is just a beautiful city and there’s always something to do – enjoying the beautiful sunshine and the beaches or catching up with friends.

Where are the best places to get a good meal?

I love pizza which is why Macchiato Woodfired Pizza & Coffee Roastery (2/338 Pitt Street; macchiato.com.au) is my favourite. It has the best wood-fired pizza.

Where do you go to see a great performance?

The Sydney Opera House, of course! It’s a must.

Where do you go after a show to unwind?

Opera Bar (Sydney Opera House, Macquarie Street; operabar.com.au) is the perfect place to socialise after a performance. It has a great vibe, a view of the Harbour Bridge and it’s two minutes away from work.

Where do you go for inspiration?

One of my favourite spots is the Hornby Lighthouse at South Head. I love to sit there and relax on a sunny day and listen to the waves crashing in the breeze.

What is the one thing a tourist must do?

Come and explore the Sydney Opera House.

Of course you can come and see Opera Australia in action, but there are loads of other amazing performances on year round.

Tell us something only a local would know.

The coastal walk from Coogee to Bondi is absolutely beautiful, and there are so many great places to indulge with food and drink after the walk.

48

56

MORE ARTS Read an interview with street artist David Booth (aka Ghostpatrol) about how public art has changed.

16

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

SEE STACEY PERFORM Stacey’s next performance is in Wagner’s Parsifal alongside German superstar tenor Jonas Kaufmann.

She can be seen on Wednesday 9, Saturday 12 and Monday 14 August. For more information visit opera.org.au.

3

Travel light.

Shoot Big!

Canon EOS M3 Kiit Mirrorless Travel Kit

SAVE

$100

with EFM 15-45mm STM Zoom

$699.95 24 MEGA PIXEL

49 POINT AF

3.0” FLIP SCREEN

SAVE $100

4.2

FRAMES PER SEC

FULL HD MOVIE

Capture high-resolution images and full HD 1080p video id with h the compact ompacct EOS M3 Mirrorless Digital Camera. The M3 features a 24.2MP APS-C CMOS sensor and a DIGIC 6 Image Processor to with an ISO sensitivity range of 100 to 12800, expandable up to 25600. An intuitive 3.0” 1,040k-dot touchscreen LCD allows you to focus and shoot an image with a single tap on the screen. The touchscreen tilts up 180° and down 45°, making it easy to compose and shoot selfies as well as low-angle shots.

GOING ON A HOLIDAY?

We do Passport photos for the whole family!

QLD Pacific Fair Store Brisbane City 150 Adelaide St Maroochydore 50 Plaza Parade

Ph: 5591 8203 Ph: 3221 9911 Ph: 5479 2844

Garden City Shopping Centre

Ph: 3849 2333

NSW Sydney City 317 Pitt St

Ph: 9264 1687

Chatswood Westfield

Ph: 9413 1144

ACT Canberra Centre 125 Bunda St

Ph: 6249 7364

Canberra Civic 9 Petrie Plaza

Ph: 6247 8711

SA Adelaide City 212 Rundle St

Ph: 8223 3449

Marion Shopping Centre

Ph: 8179 4800

shopping

IN-STORE

ONLINE

VIC Melbourne City 235 Elizabeth St

Ph: 9602 3733

Greensborough Shopping Centre

Ph: 9434 3460

Camberwell 843 Burke Rd Chadstone Shopping Centre

Ph: 9861 9100 Ph: 9568 7800

Highpoint Shopping Centre Knox City Shopping Centre Southland Shopping Centre

Ph: 9317 4477 Ph: 9800 1677 Ph: 9583 5433

NEW LOCATION NEAR COLES Doncaster Shopping Centre Fountain Gate Shopping Centre Frankston 54-58 Wells St

PHONE

Ph: 9848 3832 Ph: 9705 4000 Ph: 9783 8160 16 160

teds.com.au

MOBILE

All offers end 30th September 2017 or until sold out or otherwise stated. Not all stocks available all stores. Every effort is made to avoid errors in this publication, but Ted’s does not warrant the accuracy of the content of this publication and may correct any errors and may refuse to sell any product or service. Any Liability of Ted’s in respect of any part of this publication is negated to the extent permitted by law. And if liable Ted’s obligation is limited to resupply of the goods or services, or repair, or payment for customers doing so, as Ted’s chooses. Bonus products included at Ted’s normal price only.

ti g e ra ir.co m

17

THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

JAMALA WILDLIFE LODGE Canberra, ACT

W

hy it’s worth it: Jamala Lodge, located in Canberra’s National Zoo & Aquarium, is unique amongst Australia’s zoo stays – not just in how close you get to the wild inhabitants, but also in the passion brought to the project by owner Richard Tindale. You can see it in the attention to detail in uShaka Lodge, in the main reception area decorated in masks, carvings and ephemera from

18

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

Richard’s many trips to Africa. It feels like a private members’ club – or maybe a primate members club, since you share it with colobus monkeys and lemurs – and it was originally Richard’s family home.

You can feel it in the warmth of the rooms with quirky details – mosaics and printed fabrics to match your chosen animal. And you can enjoy it in the amazing design of the rooms that have you

sleeping right next to lions and bears, feeding giraffes from your balcony or seeing a lemur peer into your bedroom. Basically, you are Matt Damon in We Bought a Zoo, but for an all-too-fleeting 22 hours.

safari, so good

Must-do experience: You’ll be tempted to skip the early-morning zoo tour in favour of hanging in your lush room, but don’t. On this tour you’ll meet residents like the common eland (antelopes) and dingoes. And, if you’re lucky, and white rhino Eco is feeling friendly, he might present himself for a scratch.

The damage: The Giraffe Treehouse starts from $1325, all experiences included. jamala.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Canberra from Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

WORDS PAUL CHAI

The exterior of the Giraffe Treehouses (below) and cool touches like a giraffe mosaic in the bathroom (above).

Bang for your buck: Jamala isn’t just a stay – it’s also an experience, from the high tea in the lodge, to the evening private zoo tour, to a night time behind-the-scenes zoo visit for kids.

Dinner is the main event as you’re led down through the aquarium to have Moet on the deck followed by a meal in what was once a shark tank. All the while the zoo’s two white lions, brother and sister Jake and Mischka, watch you from metres away – casting a keen eye on young kids who look like dinner to them (check age restrictions on Jungle Bungalows).

Then there’s the fact you’re locked in a zoo after hours – which blows the kids’ minds.

The digs: Our stay, Giraffe Treehouse 6, sits at the end of the row of treehouses and is closest to the house of resident giraffe, Hummer.

After check-in and a tour, guests receive some carrots to give to Hummer, who comes to each balcony keen to wrap a big blue tongue around his treats. He then wanders back and forth until dark, nibbling at the food placed near the houses. The treehouse’s front garden is home to some deer and alpacas, some of which are happy to be patted.

Our youngest doesn’t know where to go: on the balcony courting Hummer, in the front-lawn petting zoo with the deer, or in our abode eating mini-bar chips. The treehouse decor keeps the African theme.

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

19

e nferenc o c r o ities eting ext me nference facil ! n r u o Hold y ra Tower. Co in Canberra s t at Tels he best view t h it w

Oering spectacular 360 views over Canberra and across to the Brindabella Ranges, day or night, Telstra Tower is a must place to visit.

0

Like us on Facebook Open 9.00am-10.00pm Daily

100 Black Mountain Drive, Acton

Ph: 1800 806 718

THE POINTY END

Take the family to Canberra

WORDS PAUL CHAI

F

amily holidays are a bit like family movies – it can be hard to keep everyone happy. Too “kiddie” and the adults end up reconsidering their life choices; too “grown-up” and the kids whine like an old gearbox. But a recent to trip to the nation’s capital was a hit with everyone.

We start off with a sweet reception at the Novotel Canberra (65 Northbourne Avenue; novotelcanberra.com.au), where we find a gift pack waiting for the kids – propeller caps from Questacon (and a free family pass) and a pack of “marshmallow snowmen” for the kids to assemble.

Next its a lunch tip, Snapper – on the Lake (Mariner Place, Yarralumla; cscc.com.au/snapper), a fish and chippery on Lake Burley Griffin. It’s a local favourite with live music weekends and kayaking from the nearby marina, and the Family Pack of fish and chips is fast and delicious.

It fuels our next activity: 36 holes of putt-putt golf at Yarralumla Play Station (9 Pescott Lane, Yarralumla; yarraps.com.au). The course sees us navigating a miniature Canberra with holes inside both old and new Parliament House, as well as the Australian War Memorial, though we all spend ê

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

21

THE POINTY END

Three more kiddie highlights N AT I O N A L M U S E U M O F A U S T R A L I A The museum (pictured previous page) that tells all our stories, from Phar Lap to the First Australians – and has a great outdoor area for the kids to run around in. nma.gov.au

NATIONAL DINOSAUR MUSEUM We spotted this on the way out of town after our action-packed weekend; exhibits cover all life on earth from dinosaurs to fossils that are not seen anywhere else in the world. nationaldinosaurmuseum.com.au

TURKISH HAL AL PIDE HOUSE One of the best spots for a family meal, and the best kebabs in the city. The piled-high Family Pack will sort everyone out. turkishhalalpidehouse.com.au

AN ACTUAL PHOTO OF HOW HAPPY THE KIDS ARE AT QUESTACON

22

ti g e ra ir.co m

a bit of time fishing the balls out of mini Lake Burley Griffin.

After golf we decide to visit a different memorial. The refugee boat the SIEV X (sievxmemorial.com) sank off the coast of Australia claiming the lives of 146 children, 142 mothers and 65 fathers during the divisive 2001 election campaign. In reaction to the tragedy, over 300 schools, churches and community groups across the country erected a memorial with a decorated pole representing each of the people lost at sea. It’s a sobering stop, but the message of the memorial – “Love is stronger than fear. Kindness is stronger than greed” – is certainly one I want my kids to take to heart.

We head back to the Novotel Canberra for an extra layer of clothes and go out for the evening. The kids have had a good run, so we start at BentSpoke Brewing Co (48/38 Mort Street, Braddon;

bentspokebrewing.com.au) just a short walk away. Mine’s a Barley Griffin Canberra Pale Ale, but we don’t stay long as we have dinner plans. Just around the corner is The Hamlet (16 Lonsdale Street, Braddon; visitcanberra.com.au), a collection of food vans in a vacant lot in this thriving neighbourhood. We score a low-slung table, get some pulled-pork buns from the Spit Shack and finish with a visit to the churro stand, the biggest queue in the place.

The following day the Questacon pass is burning a hole in the kids’ pockets, but I’m keen to explore some other options, so we rise early and head to the National Arboretum (Forest Drive, Canberra; nationalarboretum.act.gov.au). It’s a misty morning and we take a walk through the dew-covered trees, the kids play in the Pod Playground – a huge play area for kids with climbing frames shaped like huge acorns – and we learn a lot from

F A M I LY- F U N C A P I T A L From Questacon (above) to the National Museum (right).

the volunteers in the National Bonsai and Penjing Collection.

The National Zoo and Aquarium (nationalzoo.com.au) – home to Jamala Lodge (see The Splurge, page 18) – is right next door, so we explore the zoo’s new extension. This a privately owned zoo with the emphasis on encounters, and getting up close and personal with inhabitants like cheetahs, sun bears and giant eland antelopes.

After lunch at the zoo it’s parent time again, and my wife wants to head to the National Portrait Gallery (King Edward Terrace, Parkes; portrait.gov.au). The kids roll their eyes as they’ve obviously received a bit too much lovebombing this weekend, but things go their way again when the gallery has easels set up in the Gordon Darling Hall for a sunset drawing session that allows the adults to sneak off.

To end our stay, we give in to the calls to visit Questacon (questacon.edu.au) next door where we build our own aircraft, take part in a simulated earthquake and take the Free Fall slide. And we all vote Canberra a top family getaway.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Canberra from Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m

23

JOIN A GROWING FRANCHISE THAT CAN CHANGE YOUR LIFE! • Turnkey Operation for $270K For a standard store & GST exclusive

• Easy to learn store systems • Simple to operate business • 15% sales growth in the last 12 months • Access to 50% finance through SilverChef partnership Spudbar was founded in 2000 around the simple promise to create delicious food that’s healthy, great value and convenient. It’s a simple and profitable business model that is supported by growing customer preferences for quality, consistency and informality.

Spudbar prides itself on being more like a family of supportive outlets than a big system you get lost in. The business is easy to learn and the ongoing training and support is practical and friendly.

“ Our sales growth is

being supported by a big shift towards

healthier eating that is here to stay”

- Ash, Franchisee - QV Melbourne

For more information go to spudbar.com.au or email franchising@spudbar.com.au

THE POINTY END

SMELLS LIKE LOCAL SPIRITS It's not just beer that's going craft – Aussie spirits are taking over the top shelf

WORDS PAUL KRISTOFF ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

W

hether enjoyed straight, on the rocks, or as part of a cocktail, spirits form the basis of many a great drink. Not so long ago, a trip to the bar involved choosing between one international conglomerate or another. But in recent years, a backlash against large, faceless corporations has ignited interest in small-scale artisans. Increasingly, people want to support local, independently owned businesses, run by those who are passionate about a craft, and creating a quality product that they’re proud of.

Some of these artisans have rediscovered lost ways of doing things, some have come up with new ways, and many have found success with a combination of both.

From burgers to beer, clothes to coffee, and salumi to shampoo, the age of the artisan is well upon us.

One industry that is increasingly being defined by the small producers entering the

market is that of distilling. In Australia, and around the world, a glance at the shelves behind the bar reveals a number of spirits with interesting names and labels, and many of these are local. Ask for a gin and tonic, and the choice is no longer between the house or top-shelf options, but rather any number of styles from several producers, each with their own story to tell.

This “story to tell” is one of the many factors that have contributed to the rise of artisan spirits. Take Margaret River-based West Winds Gin, which saw four friends set out to create gin that combined distinctly Australian botanicals with a selection of more traditional ingredients.

Their Sabre and Cutlass gins hit the market in 2011 and won Gold and Double Gold awards in the prestigious San Francisco International Spirits Competition that year – proof uniquely Australian gin can hold its own against the international players.

THE FEAST 1 0F 2

Also impressive is the story of Sullivan’s Cove, the small Tasmanian whisky distillery established in 1994, when a 150-year ban on distilling in Hobart was finally lifted.

Taking advantage of Tasmania’s pristine natural environment and ingredients, the team found international fame when the Sullivan’s Cove French Oak cask HH525 won the World’s Best Single Malt at the World Whiskies Awards 2014.

Everyone likes hearing a story about the successful underdog, and increasingly, artisan distillers are having a lot of success.

This isn’t just reflected in the greater awareness of these brands by the general public, but also by a greater awareness by the big players. As happened in the wine industry, and more recently with craft beer, the big alcohol brands are starting to appreciate the value that exists ê

L OC A L DIS TIL L ATION HERO Bill Lark from Tasmania is the “Godfather of Australian Whisky”, the man who challenged the state’s ban on local distillation that was put into place by Governor Franklin in the 1830s. In 1992 Lark set about the changes that would produce today’s distillation boom and he has been inducted into the international Whisky Hall of Fame for his efforts. larkdistillery.com

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

25

THE POINTY END

unique are the rare and seasonal gins they produce, such as the Bloody Shiraz Gin, which sees their Rare Dry Gin combined with Yarra Valley Shiraz grapes. Just like wine, the exact flavour of the gin is slightly different with each vintage. with some of these makers. In late 2015 Diageo, which owns about 40 per cent of the entire Scotch Whisky market in terms of volume, invested an undisclosed sum in Melbourne-based New World Whisky Distillery, the producer of Starward whisky.

There are varying opinions on whether something remains artisan if a major corporation invests in it, but the fact is, Starward whisky is as good as it’s ever been, is arguably more innovative, and is available in more places locally and internationally than it ever would have been were the investment not to occur.

There’s an increasing demand for the new breed of quality Australian spirits, and investment like this helps ensure it can be met. As the artisan distilling market continues to grow, there’s no doubt new players will continue to enter, and more mergers and acquisitions will take place.

From the consumer’s end, what’s certain is that there’s never been a better time to be a drinker of spirits. No matter your tipple of choice, chances are there’s a local brand out there for you.

Here are five of the best places around Australia to try some of them.

Four Pillars Gin (Healesville, VIC) Four Pillars’ philosophy is based around “four pillars” of distilling: quality stills imported from Germany; high-quality Yarra Valley water; a mixture of native and international, dry and fresh botanicals; and love for every aspect of what they are making. The philosophy clearly works, as they produce some of the best gin in Australia, winning local and international awards. Their three core range gins are all fantastic, and you can sample them all at the distillery. What really makes Four Pillars

26

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

Archie Rose Distilling Co. (Rosebery, NSW) Owner Will Edwards was inspired to open his own distillery by the first craft distillers of New York, London and Tasmania, and did so in 2015, when Archie Rose became the first distillery to open in Sydney since 1853. Unlike many craft distillers, Archie Rose doesn’t focus on one spirit, but rather uses its three custom-built Scandinavian stills to produce gin, whisky, and vodka. The impressive speakeasy style bar at the distillery is the best place to experience Archie Rose’s spirits, and features several unreleased, experimental bottles you won’t find anywhere else. Start with a tasting flight, then move onto cocktails.

Whipper Snapper Distillery (East Perth, WA) Whipper Snapper is Perth’s first urban distillery, located a stone’s throw from the CBD. They’re known for crafting premium whisky using 100 per cent Western Australian ingredients. There’s a lot to recommend about the distillery: it doubles as an art gallery to showcase Western Australian artists; it serves fantastic coffee; and on the first Saturday of every month it offers a thorough 90-minute whisky workshop as well as regular distillery tours.

As for the whisky itself, the top pick is their signature ‘Crazy Uncle’ moonshine, in both its original and white oak barrel aged forms.

Applewood Distillery (Gumeracha, SA) Brendan and Laura Carter of Unico Zelo Wines decided to try their luck at distilling in 2012 and since then have

THE FEAST 2 0F 2

produced some of the best spirits to come out of South Australia. They use their winemaking and distilling knowledge interchangeably, which results in some very interesting spirits, all of which use indigenous ingredients. Økar is Applewood’s version of an Amaro, which relies on the native riberry to give it a cranberry-tartness, with hints of clove and bark-like bitterness. Their Green Ant Gin is distilled with green ants from Queensland (they taste of lime) while the Chai Eau De Vie is a barrel-aged Fiano blended with chai spices.

Lark Distillery (Hobart, TAS) Tasmania is arguably the home of whisky in Australia, with several of the country’s finest small batch distillers operating out of the state. One of the best, and most conveniently located for visitors, is Lark, which is situated on the Hobart Waterfront, right near the Salamanca Market. Their heavily peated port cask, LD689, won Best Australian Single Cask Single Malt at the World Whiskies Awards in 2016, and it’s just one of the many Lark whiskies that you can try, among other brands, when you visit the cellar door.

The fantastic Forty Spotted Gin is also distilled by Lark, and they also have a rum, Quiet Cannon.

THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture online magazine The City Lane, and he is one third of the craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective.

Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.

T HE P L AY L I S T

THE POINTY END

Pack these on your next trip away TECH

IPAD “And I have to make sure that it is fully charged.”

AHEAD OF THE PACK Dion Chandler – Managing Director, Adelphi Hotel

1 CAREER CROOKS

GOOD LUCK WITH THAT Forget The Roots and what you think you know about Philadelphia rap music – this is the real deal. A square-shouldered, south Philly underground classic, Zilla Rocca’s whisky-lined noir raps matched to Small Professor’s tightly looped funk beats.

Perfect for… touring Melbourne’s record stores

interview paul chai albums matt shea

Ü The Adelphi Hotel in Melbourne recently launched a membership app that allows customers to pay for in-house purchases via a digital wallet – the first hotel in Australia to offer this system. The idea is to make the whole purchasing experience in hotels simpler, like Uber has done for taxis.

“Another technology we have recently introduced is a mobile instant messaging system (glowing.io), which allows us to easily connect with our guests ‘in the moment’ via whatever messaging app they use,” says MD Dion Chandler. “There is nothing for the guests to download and it means they are instantly connected to our front desk team from anywhere in the world, 24 hours a day via text message.”

Dion does a fair bit of travelling himself and was recently on a holiday to Myanmar, and when he flies somewhere new he likes to sit by the window. “I prefer a window on the outbound flight and aisle on the return,” he says.

“I love looking out the window when landing in a new city I have never been to.”

The Adelphi Hotel is owned

by Iconic Hotels Group; adelphi.com.au

28

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

TECH

EARPHONES “I need my noise cancelling Bose in-ear headphones.”

GE AR

PILLOW “My super comfy Ostrich Pillow” ostrichpillow. com

2 AUTUMN IN JUNE MAGENTA

A young Los Angeles Latino singer-producer turns away from gang-banging rap to make euro synth-pop. It’s not your typical music story, but then Magenta isn’t your typical album – 12 cuts of ethereal sorrow and hearton-sleeve confession set to unstoppable beats.

Perfect for… a Victorian spa country retreat

S TAT I O N A R Y

TWO PENS “One for me and one for the person sitting next to me who always asks for a pen when the landing cards are handed out.”

FOOD

WONDERSNACKS “A few packets of my favourite travelling snack called ‘The Hangover’ (a sweet blend of duck-fat and roasted peanuts in maple syrup), from The Wondersnack company.

We also stock them in our free minibars at Adelphi Hotel.

3 THE BELLIGERENTS SCIENCE FICTION

Six years. That’s how long it’s taken The Belligerents to get around to releasing a debut album. The good news is it was worth it. On Science Fiction, the Brisbane five-piece sound focused, confident and precise. They also sound like nothing else out there right now.

One of the best Australian LPs of the year so far.

Perfect for… your headphones during a solo city getaway

An experience rich in heritage.

Built in 1899, The Perth Mint is Australia’s oldest operating mint and Perth’s premier destination where you can experience the magic, allure and wonder of gold.

• Come and experience Western Australia’s rich golden history.

• See the world’s largest gold coin – 1 tonne of pure gold valued at over $50 million.

• Witness the spectacle of a traditional gold pour in our original melting house.

• Touch more than $500,000 of pure gold bullion.

• Marvel at precious metal coins being minted before your eyes.

• Purchase unique Western Australian treasures including exquisite Argyle Pink Diamonds and Kailis Australian Pearls. Tax free sales available.

Open 7 Days from 9am to 5pm Gold Exhibition – Shop – Café

perthmint.com.au/visit ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

29

THE POINTY END

See another side of Coffs Harbour

WORDS TIANA TEMPLEMAN

T

his pretty destination has always been a popular holiday spot for families and grey nomads, but you don’t need kids or a caravan to appreciate such a stunning area along the NSW coastline (pacificcoast.com.au).

Coffs Harbour and its surrounds offer more than a few surprises, from live music venues, boutiques and funky cafes to one of Australia’s most significant wetlands.

Hitting the town On Friday evenings, the Twilight Food Market (Park Beach Reserve, Coffs Harbour) comes

alive with the sound of laughter, live bands and sizzling snacks filling the air.

If you aren’t ready to call it a night when the market wraps up, head to Zen Japan (55 Grafton Street, Coffs Harbour), a “chopsticks only” late-night sake and tapas bar.

No spoons, forks or knives, and jugs of sake – what could possibly go wrong?

Fortunately, Old John’s (360 Harbour Drive, Coffs Harbour), a cafe with cool retro decor, offers the perfect hangover cure. One large coffee, freshly squeezed juice and the cafe’s signature egg and bacon roll will have you ready to face the day. ê

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

31

HEAD TO BELLINGEN AND DORRIGO TO SEE A DIFFERENT SIDE OF THE CENTRAL COAST

Bellingen and beyond With its emerald-green pastures and main street lined with historic buildings, Bellingen is almost impossibly pretty. But this rural town, located a 30-minute drive from Coffs Harbour, stays true to its roots. Alongside trendy boutiques, you’ll find second-hand stores with tea cosies and 70s frocks brightening the window. Dogs wait patiently for their owners outside the historic Federal Hotel (77 Hyde Street, Bellingen; federalhotel.com.au) and alternative lifestylers add a splash of colour.

On the main street, Little Red Kitchen (111 Hyde Street, Bellingen) has original artworks for sale, live music, and some of the best pizza this side of Italy. No. 5 Church Street (5 Church Street, Bellingen; 5churchstreet.com) serves meals to an eclectic clientele, ranging from Bellingen’s oldest residents to hipsters sporting more facial hair than Ned Kelly. This laidback cafe also hosts intimate Live@No.5 sessions featuring performers such as The Yearlings and Katie Noonan.

Check the gig guide on the website before you arrive.

Go wild at Dorrigo Just up the road from Bellingen you’ll find Dorrigo National Park (Dome Road, Dorrigo; nationalparks.nsw. gov.au/dorrigo-national-park) which is accessed via the Waterfall Way, a stunning drive that passes alongside lush green fields and small waterfalls tumbling down hills.

Dorrigo is famous for its elevated walkway that ends at a dramatic lookout perched on the edge of an escarpment. This only takes 20 minutes to explore, but it’s worth allowing a few extra hours to do the Wonga Walk, which includes suspension bridges and a stroll behind a waterfall. Bring bottled water, snacks and a sense of adventure.

32

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

THE POINTY END

Explore the Valley of the Mist

Where to stay P IE R H O T E L In the early 1900s, the Pier Hotel catered “for sea-loving visitors and those who wish to contemplate a morning plunge in the sea.” These days this historic local icon is a hip haven of designer rooms with contemporary decor and a cool, vintage twist.

356 Harbour Drive, Coffs Harbour; pierhotelcoffs.com.au

“Coffs Harbour and its surrounds offer more than a few surprises, from live music venues, boutiques and funky cafes to one of Australia’s most significant wetlands“

Kakadu is famous for its wildlife, but the sleepy town of Macksville, located south of Coffs Harbour, is also home to one of Australia’s most significant wetlands. Known as the Valley of the Mist (88 Congarinni North Road, Talarm; valleyofthemist.com.au), the water is less than 50cm deep in most sections and supports an incredible array of water birds including jabirus, white-bellied sea eagles and huge black swans. Guided canoe trips are led by Dennis Ryan, the landowner who instigated the listing of the wetlands, and include a tour of the on-site bush tucker farm followed by morning tea.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Coffs Harbour from Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

PROMISED L AND RETREAT Indulge your stylish inner hippy in one of the elegant wooden chalets at Promised Land Retreat, a sweeping 100-acre property with serene views of the Dorrigo escarpment. There are mountain bikes for exploring the surrounding area, and the Never-Never River swimming hole is a short stroll away.

934 Promised Land Road, Gleniffer; promisedlandretreat.com.au

BELLINGEN YHA Private double rooms make this character-filled weatherboard house with wide verandahs and stunning mountain views a must for thrifty travellers of all ages. Fast, free internet and the funky, friendly vibe offer yet more reasons to stay.

2 Short Street, Bellingen; bellingenyha.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

33

Reflect on their stories at awm.gov.au

THE POINTY END TRAVEL & ART 1 0F 2

THE PASSENGER A round-table chat with three different travellers.

This issue’s topic: art

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

Sarah Mitchell, art lover I studied art in Sydney, so it has always been a part of my life, and it’s always high on the list of my reasons to travel. My first big art-driven holiday was to head to Europe to see all the works we were studying and to make all the famous artists I had researched come alive. If reproductions were the best way to see art, there would be no need for art galleries. There’s just nothing to compare

to seeing art in the flesh; to stand up close to the very canvas that has been touched by Van Gogh or Gaugin; to see the texture of the canvas, the melding of the colours.

There’s something about being in a gallery with like-minded people – it’s like hanging out with your tribe and it makes you feel like you’re part of a larger experience. I find galleries to be very contemplative and meditative places, like my version of going to church; they’re often quiet and give me time to think.

People travel for business or sport or shopping, so why not art? It’s a very valid reason to jump on a plane.

Like many people, I travelled to Hobart just to see the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona) and it was one of my most memorable travel experiences. Hobart to me was an unlikely destination for an art lover back then, but with the arrival of Mona it’s now an art hub and it allowed me to visit other galleries like TMAG. I got to explore the city and see how much of a love for art the residents had. ê

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

35

THE POINTY END On that trip, I met a couple in a bar one night and we got talking about the art in Tassie, and they said I should come around to their house the following day and see their collection. I took them up on the offer. Later, one of the artists they knew had a show in Melbourne’s Bellarine Peninsula, so I went along and that developed into a personal connection with the artist himself. Travelling for art is great; you never know where it might lead.

Connor McLeod, art hater To paraphrase, “I don’t know much about art, but I know what I don’t like” – and for me, that’s travelling to look at galleries.

I’ve never been much of an art lover.

I’ve ticked a few boxes, like going to the Louvre or heading to the National Gallery in Canberra, but I end up going at a cracking pace and tear through the place in record time, winding up back outside none the wiser about the art world.

I’d go one further and say that the majority of people wandering around staring soulfully at gallery walls are only doing it because they think they should; they’re too scared to admit they have no idea what is going on – or to impress a member of the opposite sex (most likely the latter).

I was living in the UK when artist Tracey Emin debuted her unmade bed in the name of art, when Damien Hirst was doing shows full of pickled animals, and when Chris Ofili was painting in elephant dung. I didn’t get it then, I don’t get it now.

I realise that art is part of the culture of a place but, more often that not, galleries are made up of collections of works from all over the world. They can feel generic, repetitive and not in touch with the local culture at all. Did anyone who visited the recent Winter Masterpieces: Van Gogh exhibition end up getting a better understanding of Melbourne? I don’t think so. There’s no art that I would travel for.

36

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

TRAVEL & ART 2 0F 2

"IF REPRODUCTIONS WERE THE BEST WAY TO SEE ART THERE WOULD BE NO NEED FOR ART GALLERIES; THERE'S JUST NOTHING TO COMPARE TO SEEING ART IN THE FLESH" Paul Chai, art and about Art would probably never be at the heart of a journey that I undertake, but I’ll visit a gallery if it’s a key part of a city.

The Museu Picasso in the back streets of El Born in Barcelona gives a great insight into the artist, including a room that shows you the sketches, paintings and outtakes of how Picasso practised his Cubist style. And to see that room gives you an idea of how he became one of Barcelona’s most celebrated sons.

But I was in Barcelona for the food.

The blockbuster Surrealism exhibition in Canberra many years back is still a memorable exhibition to me. If I was to cite any art movement that I loved, it would be the Surrealists and their anarchic take on what was then a very traditional

art scene. I’ve never seen so many of my favourite artists in one gallery – Dali, Magritte, Duchamp – and my mind nearly melted like one of Dali’s clocks.

But I was there for a boys’ weekend.

I thoroughly enjoyed a recent trip to Mona in Hobart. I was late to the party with Mona, having only visited the museum this year. I loved the amazingly designed space and got a wry smile out of the works including the famous machine that has been built to, er, simulate the act of going to the toilet.

But I was there to hike in the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park.

And in New York, I went to the Museum of Modern Art, but not until I had first visited Milk & Honey, the bar that redefined the art of the cocktail.

When I travel, art may never come first, but it is likely to get a spot on the podium.

Become the designer with Francesca’s latest collection ‘Francesca Create’. First, fall in love with a base, then, discover charms that remind, inspire and reflect you.

F

rom small market stall to much-loved Australian brand, Francesa is the on-trend designer

jewellery label by sisters Hannah & Rachel Vasicek. Working with sterling silver and solid gold, the two sisters meld their contrasting styles to create striking contemporary pieces.

S h o p 2 1 2 C e n t r e p o i n t H o b a r t , Ta s m a n i a Shop 231 Melbourne Central, Victoria w w w.f r a n c e s c a . c o m . a u

‘Created by you, handmade by us’ Get 15% off online with code TIGER15

THE POINTY END

Join Melbourne’s pub football renegades

WORDS RICKY FRENCH

I

magine an Aussie Rules football game where there might be more dogs on the field than points on the scoreboard. Imagine playing in a sports team where a hangover is not only a perfectly acceptable excuse for being slack at training, but an expected one. Imagine sporting prowess of a level not seen since John Howard stepped up to the crease to bowl his famous prime ministerial grubbers in Pakistan in 2005. Welcome to Melbourne’s Renegade Pub Football League, where

there’s no ladder, no finals and sporting heroics are just a can of beer away.

For over 100 years, Victoria Park in Abbotsford, Melbourne, was home ground to the much-loved/ passionately despised Collingwood Magpies. The hallowed turf holds the boot imprints of legends of the game: Bob Rose, Peter McKenna, that guy with the blonde mullet, and many others that no one living outside Victoria would have ever heard of. Today, most of the grandstands are ê

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

39

THE POINTY END

“Most of the recruiting for the league is still done in pubs after midnight“

TAKE THE KIDS TO ONE OF THE STRANGEST AFL GAMES THEY WILL EVER SEE

demolished and the park has been redeveloped as a community hub. You can walk your dog, explore the corporate boxes of yesteryear and – if you time your visit right – watch the strangest amateur football you’ll ever see.

Comprising of eight teams representing Melbourne pubs (usually with a live music bent), the league forsakes incredible sporting skill to focus on inclusion, community and fun for all shapes and sizes, according to league president Luke Tracy: “It started off as ex-musicians who dreamt of being footballers. Most of the recruiting is still done in pubs after midnight.”

The games are played over nine weekends between April and September between The Tote, Old Bar Unicorns, Crazy Arms Bats, Lomond Barracudas, Railway Gougers, Some Velvet Morning Easybeats, Workers Club Lions and Labour in Vain Pain. What started out as a causal kick-around has now grown into a fully fledged league, attracting up to 3,000 people.

Each round features three games, with the two teams not playing that round on bar and

THE GOAL IS FUN The relaxed atmosphere makes for a great vibe on and off the field.

See some pub footy There are four rounds left in the competition this season, on August 19, September 2, September 16 and September 29. Games run from 1pm to 5pm at Victoria Park, with special late games under lights on the last round, which also coincides with the AFL grand final eve. Entry is free; dogs and hangovers are welcome.

40

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

AT PUB FOOT Y THE NAME OF THE GAME IS INCLUSION

DJ duties. The league is run as a not-for-profit organisation, with money raised going to notfor-profit community initiatives and programs, focusing on homelessness, Indigenous affairs, mental health, LGBTQI, refugee rights and similar causes. Tracy also says it’s the only full-contact mixed-gender league in the country.

“Having an inclusive league is a real focus of the Renegade League. The whole dynamic means a better vibe on and off the field. It makes for a more enjoyable and inclusive game for everyone.”

Every team has its own personality and colour, with some pubs watching the scoreboard more seriously than others. Crowd favourites the Old Bar Unicorns are well-known for harbouring magical powers, fuelled by a secret pre-match liquid known only as “specky juice”. While most other teams arrive for games in matching football jumpers, the Unicorns wear self-styled white and rainbow tops, with each player individually crafting their design with fabric paint and glitter. Rainbow sashes and unicorns feature prominently, along with the coat of arms bearing the team motto, “Fear the Fantasy”. According to myth, the only time the coach has ever been left speechless at half-time was the unprecedented occasion when the team was winning.

Tracy says there’s another element to the league than just running around on a field impersonating an athlete. It’s an ideal place for a broken heart to be mended. “There are a lot of stories about people going through a tough time and the footy league being a really positive influence on their lives. You’ll come down to training and meet new people within your community and get pats on the back just for wobbling out a dodgy handball. At the end of the day the football is secondary, because it’s about community, being inclusive, supporting live music and making friends for life.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 11 destinations; tigerair.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

41

THE POINTY END

1

3

drone's-eye view

s wa n r i v er

2

PERT H

1

We sent a drone to hover above Perth's Swan River area so you can scope out the hot spots to visit...

42

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

PERTH CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE Upcoming highlights include the Australian Tattoo Expo (September 15-17) and the world tour of Scottish comedian Kevin Bridges (September 9 and 10). pcec.com.au

2

3

E L I Z A B E T H Q U AY

THE BELL TOWER

The city's newest party precinct, this multi-million-dollar development is reconnecting the city with the Swan River with pop-up bars, skating, and kids' play areas. mra.wa.gov.au

The famous city bell tower contains 12 bells from St Martin-in-the-Fields in London that date back to before the 14th century – the only set of royal bells known to have left England. thebelltower.com.au

4

6

5

DRONES FOR HIRE

4

ST GEORGES TERRACE Behind the skyscapers is Perth's main drag, running parallel to the Swan River. The street includes London Court, with a historic shopfront dating back to 1937. londoncourt.com.au

5

SUPREME COURT GARDENS An important city green space, the Supreme Court Gardens were planted in 1920 on land reclaimed from the Swan River shallows. visitperthcity.com

6

COMO THE TREASURY A luxury hotel set in the old treasury buildings, COMO The Treasury is part of a redevelopment of the old state buildings and includes David Thompson's Long Chim restaurant. comohotels.com/thetreasury

We'd like you to meet dronesforhire.com.au – Australia's largest online directory of drone operators.

Their team sent us this stunning drone shot of Perth. To get images of your house, construction site, or even to map a large area, visit dronesforhire.com.au.

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

43

2016 Gold Major Tour & Transport Operators

Whitsunday Tourism and Business Awards

WINNER

Business of the Year

44

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

THE POINTY END

Explore Darwin by bike

WORDS CHRISTINE LONG

I

’m beginning to feel like a lapsed cyclist when I land in Darwin. Forgive me, Father: it’s been three months since my last ride. If you’re a Sunday cyclist that may not sound like much of a confession, but not long ago I was getting on a bike every single day. No wonder I’m feeling like a backslider.

I’m keen to make amends, and Darwin is the place to do it. There’s about 70 kilometres of on-road cycleways and dedicated shared paths here. Plus, the Spinway NT swipe-and-go bike hire scheme means it couldn’t be easier to get back in the saddle again.

There are multiple pick-up stations in the CBD, but for me the pick of the bunch is the one in

the town’s northern suburb of Nightcliff (about 11 kilometres from the city centre). The shared bike path tracks the suburb’s stunning foreshore, winding its way through lush green parklands dotted with palm trees.

Four bikes are lined up in the racks at the Foreshore Cafe (next door to Nightcliff Swimming Pool) when I arrive; all have baskets and one has a child’s seat. Given a choice between hiring a bike for one hour, four hours or 24 hours, I opt for four. I grab a lock and helmet from the cafe and, voila – I’m ready to roll.

If there’s a path designed to convert people to pedal power, this is it: flat and scenic, it reminds me of all the reasons why I fell in love ê

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

45

with cycling in the first place. There’s an afternoon sea breeze and I’m just cruising along taking it all in.

After a kilometre or so of pedalling, I cross the yellow footbridge at Rapid Creek, stopping at the top to take in the views: coastal one way, mangroves and creek the other. A little further on, a sign pointing towards the university offers a tempting detour (Charles Darwin University is home to the Northern Editions Print Room, which is worth a squiz if you’re into art), but I continue on. A local friend has told me about a great cafe up ahead and I’m keen to check it out.

When the path forks I take the Dripstone Cliffs option and stay on it until it deposits me in the carpark at the Dripstone Park Picnic Area. Then it’s just another 270 metres to my destination: Darwin Surf Life Saving Club.

It’s home to De La Plage (Surf Life Saving Club, Darribah Road, Brinkin; facebook.com/ delaplage0810), one of the free-range beach cafes that Darwin does so well. You order at a hole in the wall and plonk a chair or beanbag wherever you like. There are music sessions on Sunday afternoons, Street Food Fridays, and workshops on Saturdays. Or you can just enjoy the laid-back vibe of hanging out near the beach and taking in the dazzling water views like everyone else.

Be warned: it can be hard to drag yourself away unless you have a really good incentive.

For me, it’s the food trucks that appear on

THE POINTY END

the Nightcliff foreshore in the late afternoon.

There are different ones scheduled on different days. Time it well and you can be eating your wood-fired pizza from Cucina Sotto le Stelle; or organic gourmet options from Needle in a Haystack; or something sweet or savoury from the ever-popular Ken’s Crepes while you take in the spectacle of a Darwin sunset.

I get on my bike and backtrack to sample the Syrian cuisine from Damascus Kitchen. I’m still perusing the options – from kubeh to beef kebabs – when owner Nadeem gives me a felafel shaped like a heart. It’s nothing like the billiard balls masquerading as felafels that I’ve sometimes encountered. “That must be the most delicious felafel I’ve ever tasted,” I tell him. “That’s because it’s made with love,” he replies, adding that the food is made by an 85-year-old woman who follows traditional recipes honed over generations.

Whatever she’s doing, it’s working. I find myself humming as I devour my dinner, barely glancing at the blazing ball of red slipping below the horizon. It’s not only made with love – it’s eaten with love, too.

See spinwaynt.com.au for locations, and darwin.nt.gov.au for a list of street food trucks and links to their Facebook pages.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Darwin from Brisbane; tigerair.com.au

46

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

47

Making his mark From commissioned murals to illegal daubs, Australia has fallen in love with street art. We talk to veteran street artist David Booth, aka Ghostpatrol, about the changing nature of the scene.

PHOTO SAMARA CLIFFORD

48

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

STREET ART

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

49

50

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

[PHOTOS THIS PAGE: SAMAR A CLIFFORD. ART WORK (OPPOSITE ) MATISSE FAN CLUB SHRINE. WATERCOLOUR ON PAPER , 2016.

STREET ART

DAVID HAS MOVED BEYOND STREET ART AND INTO INSTALL ATIONS

T

o the uninitiated, the scrawls, loops and bubbles that decorate Melbourne may be pretty, or ugly, depending on your point of view – but to established street artists like David Booth, aka Ghostpatrol, there are mini-dramas playing out on the walls.

“I can’t help but read a city through its street art. I’m looking at the tags and seeing a conversation,” David says. “I don’t understand all of it all the time but when I think about people I was looking at in the early 2000s, these crews were everywhere and you sometimes see a faded image and you think, ‘That’s thousands of works and thousands of cans of paint.’”

ART AT TACKS Street artist David Booth (left) says he looks at street art and sees “a conversation”.

“Melbourne had a really strong graffiti culture in the 80s and 90s and is just a creative city” David is one of the key creatives in Melbourne’s internationally renowned street art movement. From full-scale murals to gallery works, David – under his working name of Ghostpatrol – has bombed in Berlin, made works in Manchester, and travelled with crews around Japan and Iceland.

He started his career by illegally pasting stencils around the drains and streets of Hobart, where he was born, and is now a respected artist involved in projects like the redevelopment of the Melbourne Museum in the city he now calls home.

ê

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

51

STREET ART

MURALS ARE JUST ONE COMPONENT OF MELBOURNE’S STREET ART

Hanging out in his Fitzroy apartment, the clang of trams coming in through the open balcony doors, we’re talking about the changing nature of street art and why Melbourne is such a hub for this type of expression. When David came to Melbourne in the early 2000s the city was in the grip of a spontaneous outpouring of street art, a citywide explosion of colour that would come to define its burgeoning laneway culture. Street art changed from a public menace to a cultural short hand for cool; street artist crews went from running from police to being flown around the country to create art in rural communities.

This was a time when international artists Shepard Fairey and Banksy came to Melbourne. Most of their works have since been destroyed like modern-day mandalas made of spray paint, not sand.

Melbourne has now completely embraced the form. When the city recently installed antiterrorism bollards in Federation Square, the first instinct of local artists was to decorate them with knitted coverings, graffiti and stencil art.

“Melbourne had a really strong graffiti culture throughout the 80s and 90s and I think it’s just a creative city. It’s a place where a lot of people visit and come through, and a lot of creative people gravitate here,” says David, who felt more at home in the city than in Hobart. “The layout of the city also contributed [to the street art growth]; the laneways allowed it to be hidden because back then there was a lot of anti advertising.”

ê

“Street art changed from a public menace to a cultural shorthand for cool” ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

53

stay & save Radisson Hotel & Suites Sydney is a boutique hotel centrally located within Sydney's CBD, walking distance to the ICC Sydney, Darling Harbour and Chinatown.

Book your stay directly with us and receive 10% off our Best Available Rate! Apply booking code RADMEM when booking on Radisson.com/sydneyau or contact our reservations team.

In addition receive a complimentary upgrade if you mention Tiger in-ight magazine at the time of booking. reservations@radisson-sydney.com.au | +61 2 8268 8888 |Subject to Availability| Terms & Conditions Apply| Black-out Dates Apply|

STREET ART

Where to see Ghostpatrol COROMANDEL PL ACE As part of the Victorian government’s Green Your Laneway project, David painted a large mural in Coromandel Place. The project seeks to “activate” laneways across the city by cleaning them up, adding plants and public seating, as well as public art. “There are hundreds of little images in this work, so even if you live there, every time you look at it you might see something different,” David says. participate.melbourne.vic.gov.au/ greenlaneways

ONCE A NUISANCE, MELBOURNE STREET ART IS NOW PART OF THE CITY’S IDENTITY

[PHOTOS ACDC ART WORK , ARTIST: HEESCO. GHOSTPATROL ART WORKS ( TOP RIGHT ) DEPTHS FOR THINKING AND REFLECTING. ACRYLIC ON LINEN, 2015 AND FROG SHRINE ITEM CARVED PINE, ACRYLIC AND RESIN. 2016 (BOTTOM)

MELBOURNE MUSEUM

This is at odds with the current scene with a number of artists calling a new wave of advertising-supported murals “brandalism”, but David says for every commissioned mural there is still the edgy art that he grew up making. He talks about crews who travel the country – not for fame, but just for the game of getting their tag in as many places as possible.

“There are levels of selling out and if you are a purist who works really hard to hide their identity and you ‘get up’ a lot – getting up is high respect because you are taking a lot of risks,” he says. “The origins of that is the graffiti scene in New York in the 70s, and they would say ‘going all city,’ which means having your tag up all over the city. And there are some people in the last 15 to 20 years in

Melbourne who everyone knows their names because they are everywhere. So some people would think that is a bunch of naughty 14-year-olds, but that is the nice thing about getting to know people in that culture, and learning more about it.”

David says the street artist community is just a “very visible subculture,” but where some see chaos, he sees a set of rules and messages that you learn on the way up – things like not painting over more established artists, or going bigger and higher to keep your work safe. ê

As the final part of the historic museum to get a makeover, David contributed works to the Pauline Gandel Children’s Gallery, a learning space for kids aged up to five years old. “This is easily one of my favourite projects,” he says. “The works are based on things from the museum collection, so I spent a lot of time looking at the collection and drawing things from it, animals mainly; I like museums on the whole and I learned a lot.” museumvictoria.com.au/ melbournemuseum

HEPBURN WIND This is Australia’s first communityowned wind farm at Leonards Hill, and as such it attracted a bit of controversy when it was first set up in 2007. For David, this was part of the appeal when they asked him to paint a huge mural on the wind turbines. “I actually got hate mail and protests, and the punk in me liked making people angry when we knew we were right,” he says. “It was also a hard surface to work on with new challenges.” hepburnwind.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

55

STREET ART

Australia’s must-see street art The late New York artist came to Australia almost three decades ago, and while many people know the mural on Johnson Street, there’s a little-known work nearby. “On Napier Street, closer to Gertrude Street, he painted this on the house he stayed at in 1984,” David says.

“Melbourne is very lucky to have a piece by this master. Keith’s work has been a huge influence on me personally.”

GEORGIA HILL , HOBART “Georgia is a mural-painting machine, making epic black and white typographic paintings,” David says. “It’s so nice to see more murals popping up in my old home town.

Georgia’s work is powerful and inspiring – and you can find her work all around the world.”

A S H K E AT I N G , M E L B O U R N E C B D This recreational space at A’Beckett Street is part of RMIT and has been turned into a “temporary” park with eight-metre-high works by Melbourne local Ash Keating.

“I first saw Ash’s work more than 10 years ago and he has been a big inspiration to me,” David says.

UPLIFTING EXPERIENCE David Booth says painting the Hepburn Springs was a huge challenge (top right).

56

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

David no longer goes all city, or runs midnight raids on the walls of Melbourne; he’s part of larger commissioned murals where he needs work site qualifications like lift licences and traffic management. But his heart is still in the punk aesthetic of the scene, rather than the traditional art world where he shows in galleries and sells to private investors.

“The art world is a very strange place.

Some people own my work and it’s never going to be seen again. It’s stored in a vault and they are hoping it will be worth more money one day,” he says.

“That doesn’t sound so appealing when you are slaving away with your thoughts, feelings and watercolours – ‘I hope this gets wrapped up in bubble wrap and put in storage for a really long time.’”

For all that, David doesn’t see the commercialism of street art as inherently bad. He says that more work means that established artists can pick and choose their works – some you put on your resume and

some you don’t – and take on unusual projects like his recent job painting wind farms in Hepburn Springs.

But he does miss some of the detective work that used to be required to see the city’s best works in the early days.

“For someone like me, part of the thrill at the start was going looking for it. You didn’t have map locations or someone else’s photo,” he says. “You went and what was special about it was you thought you might be the last person to see that work because the next day it might fall off in the rain or be tagged over or cleaned up. Now we are quite spoilt.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 11 destinations; tigerair.com.au

SCULTPURE, ABOVE: BY GHOSTPATROL

K E I T H H A R IN G , F I T Z R O Y

“I received hate mail about the Hepburn Wind murals”

CARS & CAMPAS

DON’T LET YOUR FRIENDS GET GREEN WITH ENVY. BRING THEM ALONG FOR THE RIDE! *Rates are correct at time of print and are subject to change without notice. Rates based on off peak pricing and are shown in local currency. Conditions apply.

ONE PRECINCT

TWO UNIQUE EXPERIENCES

149

$

FROM

*

PER ROOM PER NIGHT *Based on lead in room type, single / twin share, room only, best public rate. Subject to availability, terms & conditions apply.

Darwin Airport

DARWIN AIRPORT RESORT

novotel Darwin Airport

MERCURE DARWIN AIRPORT RESORT

2 Sir Norman Brearley Drive, Marrara Phone (08) 8920 7800 • Email HA207@accor.com

1 Sir Norman Brearley Drive, Marrara Phone (08) 8920 3333 I Email HA209@accor.com

VISIT US AT DARWINAIRPORTHOTELS.COM.AU

JOIN OUR GLOBAL LOYALTY PROGRAM AT ACCORHOTELS.COM

DESTINATION DARWIN

DE S T IN AT ION D A R W IN

JAC

is a travel writer with a passion for the Top End.

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION, TWO DIFFERENT SWIMMING VS EATING

ADVENTURES

GEM

is a writer who lives in Darwin because she loves the tropical lifestyle and, above all, the swimming!

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

59

WEEKEND WARRIORS

CHECK OUT YOUR CHECK-IN

DOWN THE H ATCH Darwin’s foodie scene has levelled up in the last year or two. Start your day with incredible producedriven breakfast at Rabbit Hole cafe in the main Mall (Shop 2/ 44 The Mall, Smith Street, Darwin; facebook.com/Rabbitholedarwin) followed by an iced espresso for tropics-appropriate caffeination.

The top spot to stay on the Darwin Waterfront, literally steps from the wave lagoon and the nonstop action of this shiny, new precinct, the Adina Apartment Hotel (7 Kitchener Drive, Darwin; adinahotels.com/hotel/darwin-waterfront) is your ticket to the city’s new favourite playground.

LIV E IN THE PA S T Just a five-minute walk out to Stokes Hill Wharf takes you 75 years back in time at the Royal Flying Doctor Service (Stokes Hill Wharf; rfdsdarwin.com.au), where a new and very moving virtual reality experience takes you through Darwin’s wartime bombing at this very location. A beautiful marriage of history and technology.

JAC

disappears down the Rabbit Hole and goes stargazing.

f r id ay

10:00

12:00

13:00

MORNING SPL A SH One thing you can rely on in Darwin is that it’s always swimming weather: when we feel like we’re “going full troppo” in the heat, we can always turn to our own backyards for some relief.

I’m a big fan of the classic backyard pool, whether it’s a miniature lagoon, a rectangle, a circle or else the classic kidney shape. This morning, a friend has invited me over for a smoothie and a quick swim session.

60

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

BREK K Y BY THE POOL M A NGROV E WA L K An underrated swim can be had next at Lake Alexander, located in East Point Reserve next to Fannie Bay. This is one of my favourite places in the city – the lake is saltwater and is always extremely calm, and for this reason it's a popular place for kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. The size of the lake offers a great open swimming opportunity, without the stress of waves or ocean swell.

Just around the corner from the lake there is a boardwalk that leads to a vibrant example of the city’s local mangroves.

I want to eat my lunch at a pool that makes me feel like I’m staying in a tropical resort. The casual dining at the Essence Bar and Grill is just the place to help me out here.

While the restaurant is part of the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort (1 Sir Norman Brearley Drive, Darwin; mercure.com), non-guests of the hotel are welcome to dine here too, and later in the afternoons all patrons of Essence can use the pool if they’d like.

DESTINATION DARWIN

ONE HOT TA M A L E

S TOP A ND WAV E The afternoon is when the Waterfront really comes alive with sunbathers, trapeze shows, harbour swims and a thousand other diversions.

Join the locals for a bob up and down in the wave lagoon (Darwin Waterfront; waterfront.nt.gov.au) to cool off before sundown.

The great advantage of staying here on the Waterfront is the promenade lined with fantastic new restaurants.

From edgy South East Asian at Chow to rarefied Greek specialties at Antiquity or casual seafood deliciousness at the Oyster Bar, you can’t go wrong. Award for friendliest and most fun? Definitely Hot Tamale for authentic Mexican and a great margarita! (Darwin Waterfront; hottamale.net.au)

15:00

S TA R S A FA RI Minimal light pollution and a balmy breeze makes stargazing in Darwin a natural high.

Join Geoff Carr for his rooftop city Star Safaris (starsafaris.com.au) – or catch him at Mindil Beach markets on Sunday.

17:00

19:00

GEM

swims in a backyard pool, at the beach and in a public pool.

SUNSE T DINNER L A ZING ON THE BE ACH After a long lunch and a glorious banana lounge siesta, I’m moving on and taking my chill vibes to Nightcliff Beach in the northern part of the city. While sadly a “proper” swim in the sea here is out of the question – thanks a lot, crocs and jellyfish – in the dry season at the right time there are small rock pools for a quick dip of your legs and feet. And just lazing around where the dazzling blue meets the red cliffs: I’m in heaven!

A RE A L S WIM Okay, now it’s time for a real swim! There are a few public swimming pools in Darwin, but undoubtedly the best is close by at the Nightcliff Swimming Pool (259 Casuarina Drive, Nightcliff; nightcliff.swimming.org.au): perched up on the cliffs; surrounded by cliffs and grass; a canopy for sun protection and plenty of space for play. Honestly, this place is better than most of the resort pools in town!

Highlight: you can watch the sun set into the Arafura Sea from the southern end of the pool. Another more prosaic secret is that from the front entry area you can find a crate of magazines to flick through at your leisure. Entry to the pool is hands-down the best way to spend $4 of your loose change.

The sun has set, the pool has closed: how can I have a dinner that still connects to swimming? The best bet is just around the corner. I wander next door for a relaxed dinner and a couple of drinks at the Foreshore Restaurant and Cafe (foreshorecafe.com.au). It’s almost like swimming as you look out over the dark sea and the glistening pool on the right.

Darwin does casual dining very well and the al fresco section of this cafe is a little reminiscent of a beachside Balinese warung – colourful beanbags for chilling out and giant board games.

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

61

WEEKEND WARRIORS

S TROL L THE S A ND COL OUR A ND MOV EMENT Grab a breakfast laksa, a tropical juice and as many vibrant souvenirs as you can carry at Parap Village Markets every Saturday morning (8am-2pm) and then stay to browse Aboriginal art in its three great art galleries.

Nomad Art (Vickers Street, Parap; nomadart.com.au) specialises in accessible pieces, fabrics and textiles.

FOOD WITH A VIE W A 10-minute stroll takes you to Fannie Bay’s secret gem: the Darwin Trailer Boat Club is a real find (8 Atkins Drive, Fannie Bay; dtbc.com.au). Grab lovely salads, solid burgers and the usual club fare alongside a playground, a swimming pool and a zillion-dollar view. Just don’t tell anyone.

Darwin’s tide measures eight metres, which makes low tide an incredibly scenic time to use the vast beaches as your highway. Slap on the sun screen and a hat, step out from the club onto the sand and stroll south along Vesteys Beach past the beached yachts at the sailing club and the rippling rockpools.

JAC

grabs a breakfast laksa and takes a fish 'n' chip cruise.

S AT UR D AY

08:00

10:30

12:00

GE T TING CR A Z Y

DA R WIN’S L OC A L SPOT I’ve gotten up at dawn and I’m driving down to Darwin’s most famous swimming hole at Berry Springs Nature Park (Cox Peninsula Road, Berry Springs; nt.gov.au). The Park opens its gates at 8am, and that first hour is the best time to visit as the deep warm water of the aqua-green hot springs is blissfully serene before the hordes rock up for the day. This is Darwin’s answer to the local beach, so expect both tourists and locals to materialise with their inflatable mattresses and tinnies later on.

Swimming’s only open during the Dry Season, but in the Wet it’s still a beautiful place to walk around and have a picnic.

62

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

Walking up the steps from the hot springs, I’m thirsty and in need of a treat after all that paddling around.

Luckily, Crazy Acres Kiosk (70 Reedbeds Road, Berry Springs; crazyacres.com.au) is open for business daily for the entire swimming season. This is a true local business that grows a lot of its ingredients five minutes up the road at their active fruit farm. At the farm you’ll find a great lunch menu, all their yummy ice cream flavours (the lime is my favourite) and a range of sauces and jams as well.

GOING WITH THE FL OW I’m driving south on the Stuart Highway to get to my next destination for a picnic lunch. Robin Falls is a local favourite haunt in the Adelaide River region (you'll find it off the Stuart Highway, on Dorat Road). Today the cataract is flowing well – it does tend to lessen by the middle of the Dry Season though – the fate of many waterways thanks to our harsh Top End conditions. I eat my sandwich next to the pool and discover the tiny slope at the bottom of the falls makes a natural waterslide.

DESTINATION DARWIN NO FRIL L S, A L L THRIL L S

MEE T S WEE THE A R T Stepping off the beach at the Museum and Art Gallery Northern Territory (19 Conacher Street, Bullocky Point; magnt.net.au), you can meet one of Darwin’s more unusual permanent residents: Sweetheart the 5.1-metre crocodile attacked various boats here through the ’70s, earning enough notoriety to take up residence here once he died. Only in Darwin.

Sunset cruises are big business in Darwin thanks to its famous westerly vista, but this one takes the prize for the most practical on a weekend jaunt. Sea Darwin’s fish ’n’ chip cruise combines a refreshing beverage, a stop-off to pick up truly delicious local wild-caught fish, and fast-boat thrills with sunset gorgeousness, all in 1.5 hours.

14:00

FLICK S A ND CHIL L Darwin Film Society’s Deckchair Cinema (Jervois Road, Darwin; deckchaircinema.com) is nestled down on the waterside beneath Parliament House, showing all manner of movies in an extremely kicked-back fashion throughout the dry season.

17:30

20:00

GEM

hits Berry Springs, has lunch in Adelaide River and stays by the lake.

S AYING HI TO CH A RLIE After my walk from Robin Falls, I cool off in the crystal waters of the creek, right next to where I’ve parked my car.

It keeps me cool as I drive back to Adelaide River… not to a swimming hole, but to a watering hole this time! The Adelaide River Inn (106 Stuart Highway, Adelaide River; adelaideriverresort.com.au) is an iconic top end pub that even displays the stuffed remains of the giant buffalo “Charlie” from Crocodile Dundee. Sitting down for a cool one and a bowl of hot chips reminds you of how great it is up here.

L A K ESIDE S TAY GE T TING FRESH Going back towards Darwin, I’m driving to a popular weekend spot for us Darwin folk called Lake Bennett. It’s an hour out of town and is a large lake surrounded by shacks and cabins. This is an unusual kind of place in the Top End – a large freshwater lake that's even considered safe for swimming and boating (of course, always check for signage and local knowledge in case the conditions change).

I’ve rented a kayak to explore the lake – I’m looking up close at the lotus flowers in the water and the kingfishers in the trees.

I’ve decided to stay overnight at Lake Bennett Resort (Chinner Road, Batchelor; lakebennettresort.com.au) – the only hotel accommodation at the lake, it also has the only bar and restaurant in the tiny hamlet. Sitting on the eastern side of the lake, the resort and its little pool is placed right above the water, and it puts you in a prime position for a golden sunset over the water. Even better, grab a beer or a cocktail and enjoy the view from the outdoor spa.

It’s an incredibly pleasant way to finish off a Saturday that has gone, well, swimmingly! ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

63

WEEKEND WARRIORS

SH A K E IT

L A NE WAY CHIC

If sweet treats float your boat, then a walk into the city to Alley Cats Patisserie is in order (14/69 Mitchell Street, Darwin; facebook.com/alleycatspatisserie).

All your hip city must-haves are here, from cronuts to cold-drip coffee and the kind of milkshake that makes you go weak at the knees.

A few blocks away brings you to Darwin’s street-art centre in Austin Lane. Look very carefully and you’ll find fabulous Korean cuisine at Little Miss Korea (Austin Lane, Darwin; littlemisskorea.com), similarly decorated by the city’s best urban artists and tucked away in a converted warehouse.

WH AT A CROC Just across the road is the kind of kitsch-cool crocodileobsessed madness that makes Darwin so wonderful.

Crocosaurus Cove (58 Mitchell Street, Darwin; crocosauruscove.com) is a must-visit, if only to see (or try) the Cage of Death swimming experience and drop a line in to feed the baby crocs.

JAC

gets her freakshake on and hits Mindil Beach Markets.

S UND AY

09:00

11:00

12:00

COFFEE ON A FA RM It’s always good to wake up early around Darwin – it’s the only time of the day you get to feel a little bit cool. After a sunrise dip, I leave Lake Bennett and drive toward the aquatic delights of Litchfield National Park close by. I stop on the way for a coffee at the Batchelor Butterfly Farm (8 Meneling Road, Batchelor; butterflyfarm.net.au) – while this place offers quirky accommodation, it’s also the only public cafe in town that looks out over a swimming pool.

64

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

FL ORENCE FA L L S SNORK EL LING

PA RK S WIMMING Ah, Litchfield National Park – so close to Darwin, but once you’re here it feels millions of miles away from work and your urban troubles. It doesn’t take long to drive to Greenant Creek and the short walk to the top of Tjaetaba Falls. It’s an amazing little spot that from the top of the falls offers a view over the lush horizon. You're permitted to swim at the top when the conditions are safe, and there's a little ledge over the upper falls that even I can jump from without chickening out. Bring your goggles, as underwater you might find a water monitor and see the park’s little yabbies.

Driving back towards the entrance of the park, I’m heading to the Litchfield icon that is Florence Falls – twin falls that flow into a perfectly round and deep swimming hole, surrounded by deep tropical jungle.

At the water, the national park has recently installed new entrance steps and a railing to make access into the water easy for all ages.

My tip is to make sure you bring goggles or even your snorkel – you’ll see large black fish feeding on the sand below.

DESTINATION DARWIN

FIND YOUR BLISS

MINDIL M AY HEM No visit to Darwin is complete without coming to Mindil Beach on a Sunday afternoon (4-9pm; mindil.com.au), seemingly with the rest of the city’s population, to browse the market stalls, feast on an array of steaming treats from Russian to Laotian to the Roadkill Cafe, and dance to anything from Aboriginal beats to folky crooning.

SK YCIT Y SUNDOWNER The SKYCITY Casino (Gilruth Avenue, Mindil Beach: skycitydarwin.com.au) is right alongside the markets, and the Terrace Bar overlooks the sparkling infinity pool and the seemingly endless beach beyond. Duck in for a cool cocktail, but don’t stay too long. The weekend’s main event is moments away…

14:00

Back at Mindil Beach, this is the moment that hundreds (or more) of visitors and locals come for, every dry-season Sunday without fail. The beach is lined with couples, families and tourists to worship that reddening sun as it kisses the ocean and turns mayhem to mindfulness as everyone stops to watch.

16:00

19:00

GEM

grabs a farm coffee, goes to a water park and counts her swims.

S WIM COUNT “FUNDER S TORM” WA RNING

GE T TING B ACK TO N ATURE I want to stay in Litchfield for longer, but it’s time to head back into the city. Driving north, I reach Howard Springs Nature Park – another lush oasis on the outskirts of town. In recent updates to the Park, a large artificial series of rock pools (complete with waterfall) has been installed on the southern side of the springs for water play.

I’m back in the city, and I feel like a waterslide! Leanyer Recreation Park (215 Vanderlin Drive, Leanyer; facebook.com/leanyer.recreation. park) is a large community park on the northern edge of town.

Owned by the NT Government, this water park is free, and is a popular location for weekend adventures. I’m an uber-fan of this place; I even know the names of the slides: “Go Bananas”, “Blue Blast” and “Funderstorm”. My pick is the latter – you need a friend, and you plunge through pitch black on an inflatable raft.

What a massive weekend – if you haven’t been counting it has been 11 swims and dips around Darwin! Can I fit one more in? At the Darwin Waterfront, the sun is setting and I quickly have time for a quick lap of the recreational lagoon before the light goes.

FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors, get in touch.

tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

65

Townsville rocks Tigerair’s newest destination has unique Great Barrier Reef islands, a passion for health and adventure sports, tropical rainforest and boutique hotels and bars – an ideal city-country hybrid in the tropics. Paul Chai provides a must-do list for this fast-evolving city.

PHOTO TOURISM QUEENSLAND

D

espite being a key access point for The Reef, the north Queensland city of Townsville very much has its own thing going on. This is not just a place to sleep while you snorkel; Townsville is a military town, a historic town, a sporting town (“Go Cowboys”), and a town of thriving businesses and culture.

It’s the northern home to the popular travelling music festival Groovin’ the Moo (gtm.net.au), it has its own intimate music event, Neighbourhood Sessions (neighbourhoodsessions.com –, a series of acoustic sets played in suburban backyards – and each year it attracts chamber musicians to the Australian Festival of Chamber Music (afcm.com.au).

In Townsville your day might start on a jet ski and end in a laneway bar sipping craft beers

in a self-pour beer bar, then crashing in a hostel that doubles as one of the hottest bars and restaurants in town.

Head out at night in Townsville, particularly around the bustling strip of Flinders Street, and you are more likely to be propping up the bar with a local than a backpacker, and more likely to get a mojito than a XXXX. And not many cities have a suburb as stunning as Magnetic Island, a majestic pile of granite boulders fashioned into an island by nature, just a short boat ride away.

The city streets are fronted by grandiose 19th century buildings, it’s a cinch to stroll around town, and the city gets over 300 days of sunshine due to a quirk of its geography.

Turn overleaf for a list of some of the best things on offer in Townsville...

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

67

PICNIC ON THE STRAND The Strand is Townsville’s main artery running along the coastline and is packed with runners, sun-worshippers and commuters.

But a new way to enjoy The Strand is to grab a tailor-made picnic from Pineapple Picnics who will set up a throw rug, pillows and a full spread. Try the tropical-themed picnic with finger sandwiches, palm-tree-covered throw pillows and a dessert tasting plate.

Or stay in related Pineapple House, boutique bungalows near the beach. facebook.com/pineapplepicnicstownsville

CLIMB CASTLE HILL Townsville is a city that likes to keep fit and taking on one of the many trails that wind up Castle Hill is a must. Regulars can run up the Goat Track in 25 minutes or lazy visitors can drive up to get the best view in the city, where you can explore a World War II gun turret and check out the view of Queensland’s largest port outside of Brisbane – and take a peek at the Ross River that meanders through town. townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au

EXPLORE LITTLE CRYSTAL CREEK Just under an hour from the centre of Townsville is Paluma Range National Park, where the locals go to get a break from the tropical heat. Drive the switchback road to Little Crystal Creek where you can explore the rocky waterfall, head off on a rainforest walk or wander under the Depression-era rock bridge that holds up Mount Spec Road – the bridge was completed in 1932 with unemployment relief labour and makes a great spot for a picnic lunch. townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au

68

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

THE GUN TURRET ON MAGNETIC ISL AND

TASTE AUSTRALIA’S BEST MANGO ICE CREAM It’s a big call, I know, but the icy treats at Frosty Mango are enough to get Townsville’s ice cream lovers driving nearly an hour out of town.

An essential stop for anyone heading to Paluma Range National Park, you’ll recognise this roadside ice cream stall by the giant mango mascot waving to you from the fields of mango trees. Once there, grab a mango (or banana) ice cream, frozen mango or some unusual fresh fruits like the Black Sapote, known as the chocolate pudding fruit. frostymango.com.au

TOWNSVILLE SIP A LOCAL BREW

isl and high The view from the Forts Walk on Magnetic Island.

Located in the old post office building, Townsville Brewing Co. is home to a range of locally brewed beers including Townsville Bitter and more interesting creations like the Bandito Loco, a Mexican-style beer brewed using North American hops. Can’t decide?

Grab a tasting paddle and try them all. townsvillebrewery.com.au

TAKE A JET SKI TOUR

“Koalas are the new quokkas... #koalaselfie“

Leaving from Townsville’s Breakwater Marina, the Townsville WaterSports “Strand to Pallenda tour” puts you on your own personal jet ski to bounce over the waves on a guided outing. This tour, though, is really about the journey.

As a novice, the most nerve-racking part of this trip was leaving the crowded marina as I tried to get my jet ski under control, but once on the open water it takes no time at all to embrace your inner hoon and hit top speed. On a morning ride the highlight had to be heading across the flat, sun-drenched ocean with the craggy outline of Magnetic Island as the backdrop – that and learning to do doughnuts. townsvillewatersports.com.au

LEARN ABOUT REEF LIFE Townsville is home to Reef HQ Great Barrier Reef Aquarium, the world’s largest living coral reef aquarium. Owned and operated by Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority, the aquarium is used primarily for education. This is where you can learn about how the reef works, and how we can save it. There is a big focus on conservation: the carpet you are walking on is made from ghost nets (fishing nets discarded by fisherman that can trap marine life), there is a giant tortoise art work made of ghosts nets, or take the daily behind-the-scenes look at the Turtle Hospital. We met “Debbie”, a huge green sea turtle thought to be over 60 years old who had been found malnourished after Cyclone Debbie hit the coast earlier this year. reefhq.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

69

One great brand after the next.

Visit www.canberraoutletcentre.com.au for more details.

Open 7 Days 10am - 6pm Cnr of Newcastle St & Canberra Ave, Fyshwick (02) 6112 6222 canberraoutletcentre.com.au facebook.com/canberraoutletcentre

TOWNSVILLE

TAKE A BOAT TOUR OF MAGNETIC ISLAND Aquascene Charters runs tours of Townsville’s most stunning suburb on a custom-made catamaran designed to get up close and personal with the boulder-filled bays of Magnetic Island.

Aquascene is a family-run business and guide Adam Hinks is a local who knows every inch of the island and has a great rapport with the wildlife – Bianca the brahminy kite waits for him perched on a nearby rock, and he’ll moor right next to a cave inhabited by huge groupers and drop you at a perfect spot for snorkelling with reef sharks, sea turtles and some overly friendly batfish. Adam tailors his tours to his visitors and the weather so no two outings are alike, but all of them showcase the best of this unique Great Barrier Reef island. The coast here is stunning with hoop pines made into natural bonsais by the harsh conditions, beautiful bays like Smugglers Bay and Florence Bay – and the impossibly stacked granite boulders that led Captain Cook to believe the rocks had to be magnetic to be able to hold such gravity-defying shapes. aquascenecharters.com.au

IMAGES PAUL CHAI; TOURISM TOUNSVILLE

SNORKELLING ON MAGNETIC ISL AND, YOU MIGHT SEE REEF SHARKS OR R AYS

“Rambutan is the poster child for new hostels, and the coolest address in town“

STAY IN A UNIQUE HOSTEL The poster child of new-look YHA hostels, Rambutan offers everything from dorms to lush villas, all with a coastal-chic vibe. The Rooftop Bar + Restaurant is a destination unto itself with a menu of smoked meats that invokes America’s deep south, and playful touches like swing seats at the bar where you can get signature drinks like the Rambutan Rumbler – lychee liqueur, passionfruit liqueur, fresh lychee, apple and cranberry. This is the coolest address in town, it’s the site of the Groovin’ the Moo after party, and it will have you rethinking everything you think you know about staying in a hostel. The adjoining cafe is plastered in retro advertising and has ephemera from its former life as an old iceworks. rambutantownsville.com.au ê

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

71

Lipsticks so healthy you could almost eat themâ„¢

A FRESH NEW RANGE OF MOISTURE-BOOST NATURAL LIPSTICKS FEATURING AVOCADO, EVENING PRIMROSE & CALENDULA OILS DISCOVER YOURS AT: David Jones, selected Priceline, Myer, National Pharmacies, Malouf and Independent stores.

TOWNSVILLE

Places to stay O A K S G AT E W AY O N P A L M E R Perfectly situated to wander the restaurant strip of Palmer Street, these spacious apartments offer plenty of room for families with a balcony facing on to the main street; then you can shop and dine at your leisure.

2 Dibbs Street, South Townsville; minorhotels.com

PEPPERS BLUE ON BLUE Popular with the wedding crowd, this waterside collection of apartments at Nelly Bay offers main rooms with a huge bath, balconies overlooking the marina and al fresco dining at Boardwalk Restaurant and Bar. 123 Sooning Street, Nelly Bay; peppers.com.au/blue-on-blue

QUEST TOWNSVILLE With killer views over the Townsville Marina, the simple but stylish rooms of the Quest Townsville have a beach theme with seaside prints over the bed and a large bathroom; the rooms are also a short walk to The Strand.

30-34 Palmer Street, Townsville; questapartments.com.au

SUNRISE ON THE STRAND, TOWNSVILLE’S BEACHSIDE THOROUGHFARE

DRINK BUBBLES ON A YACHT Sailing of a different kind is on offer with Pilgrim Sailing’s Sip and Sail cruise that departs from Magnetic Island’s Nelly Bay marina at sunset. Your hosts, Paul and Claire Ley, will get you to sink down into one of the deck’s bean bag chairs before unfurling the sails and unleashing some seriously great hospitality.

Claire will make sure your wine glass is always full and that you have a platter of cheese and biscuits to stave off hunger, and they also offer Great Barrier Beer, a craft IPA from the Good Beer Co that donates money back to save the reef that you’re sailing on. There’s a reason photographers love sunset light, and as these golden rays hit the wooden curves of Pilgrim – and a frisky dolphin or two breaks the waves nearby – you’ll wish Paul just kept sailing off into the sunset. pilgrimsailing.com.au ê t i g et ir ga ei rr. ac ior .mc .oam u

73

TOWNSVILLE

EAT AT THE EARLY BIRD CAFE On Magnetic Island, at Horseshoe Bay, is a little shack of a cafe with food so good that Townsville mainlanders travel over on the ferry just to get a taste. Early Bird Cafe’s deceptively simple, Italian-inspired menu has sandwiches and killer brekky eggs. Try the Cuban Mojo sandwich with shredded pork, brie and baby spinach with bread from Three Loaves artisan bakehouse on the mainland – and a seriously spicy Bloody Mary. facebook.com/pg/theearlyb

WALK THE FORTS WALK A guided walking tour from Destination Adventure brings the well-worn track of the Forts Walk to life. Our guide, Daina Clark, pointed out hidden clusters of tiny bats nesting in the WWII fortifications, showed us the clifftop spot popular with morning yoga enthusiasts and spotted a koala to take a selfie with (they’re the new quokkas... #koalaselfie). Daina also pointed out bush tucker – from Burdekin plums to green ants (whose rear ends taste like lemon) – and knows plenty about Maggie’s history. destinationadventure.com.au

74

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

HAVE DINNER AT CITY LANE Townsville’s laneway dining precinct, City Lane offers boutique beers, top-notch sushi, fine dining and party spots all crammed in to a bustling alley.

Try the wood-fired pizza, pasta and antipasto platters at Donna Bionda, or a boutique beer at The Taphouse. citylane.com.au

HIT THE TOWN ON FLINDERS STREET Townsville’s party strip is packed at weekends with revellers. Heritage Exchange is a multi-faceted space that has a dance floor, killer cocktail bar, and the Rum Garden – an outside space with fairy lights draped amongst the twisted roots of Moreton Bay figs.

Get your karaoke on at Flynn’s Irish pub a few doors down, or squeeze into the Mad Cow, which recently celebrated two decades as the go-to party spot. townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au /things-to-do/restaurants

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Townsville from Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

Are Your Hormones Making You Fat? Imagine waking up every morning to the sound of your alarm, excited and happy to be starting a new day. When you look in the mirror you admire your body. Everyone tells you how great you’re looking and asks what your secret is. Sound too good to be true?

If you, like many other women, don’t feel this way, you may have a hormonal imbalance. Research has documented that over 40 per cent of women have an undiagnosed underactive thyroid gland.

If you feel tired all the time, crave sugar, use alcohol and coffee to lift yourself, retain weight around your middle and feel the cold, you could be suffering from this problem.

What Does Your Thyroid Do, and What Does This Mean For You? The thyroid gland is the major player in controlling how many calories you burn. It produces hormones that control the body’s metabolism.

If your thyroid is underactive (hypothyroidism) it’s almost impossible to lose that spare tyre around your middle, no matter how many carbs you cut out or how many hours you spend on the treadmill.

Blood Testing Current blood testing methods don’t tell the whole story. Blood tests (TSH) can only measure how much thyroid hormone you have in your blood – they can’t measure how well your hormones are working. So, if you do have a thyroid problem, it may not always be picked up.

New Way of Testing American thyroid specialists, Dr. Konrad Kail and Dr. Daryl Turner have developed a quick and non-invasive medical thyroid screening test, that’s been used by US doctors for the past ten years to accurately diagnose thyroid issues. The good news is, once your thyroid function is accurately diagnosed, the medication and nutrients you need to get your thyroid balanced can be established.

With a balanced thyroid your energy will increase, you will lose weight easily, and you’ll feel happier in yourself. Your health is your greatest asset, so, if you suspect that your thyroid isn’t quite right, don’t put off getting tested, you deserve to feel fantastic every day.

FREE

THYROID SCREEN (Normally $140)

For Tiger Tales Magazine Readers When you book a consultation

OFFER ENDS SEPTEMBER 30TH 2017.

Are You Fed Up With...

Weight Gain Around Middle?

Feeling Tired Especially At 3PM? Feeling Foggy?

Waking Through The Night?

Poor Memory?

Depression and Irritability?

Having No Interest in Sex? Constipation?

Aching Muscles and Joint Pain?

Muscle Cramps?

Worrying You May Be Infertile?

Craving Sugar and Carbs?

Feeling The Cold?

Hair Loss?

Using Coffee and Alcohol to Lift You?

Answered YES to three or more?

If so you may have an underactive thyroid gland – even if you have had ‘normal’ blood test results from your GP.

BOOK NOW

CALL 1300 THYROID (1300 849 764)

For a consultation and get your Thyroid Screen for FREE! No Questions Asked Money Back Guarantee

The practitioners in this offer are so confident that they can help you, that if you’re not satisfied with your thyroid consultation they will give you, within seven days of your appointment, a no-questions-asked full refund on services.

What to Expect

Available Locations New South Wales: Sydney CBD, Newcastle, Central Coast ACT: Canberra Queensland: Brisbane CBD, Gold Coast (Broadbeach), Sunshine Coast (Marcoola) South Australia: Adelaide (Hyde Park) Victoria: Melbourne, Geelong, Frankston Western Australia: Perth Tasmania: Hobart To receive your FREE eBook on “The 7 Secrets To Understanding Why Your Thyroid Is Causing You To Gain Weight” visit, thelucyroseclinic.com.au

In your consultation your practitioner will assess your health, perform the thyroid screening and then design an individualised program using specific nutritional supplementation, herbal medicines and medication (if needed), to improve all areas of your health. They use an integrative approach to get the results you need. If you are on medication they will work in with your G.P. The practitioners listed charge $167 for a consultation and are offering the thyroid screen for free which would normally cost you $140 on top of the consultation. They have had extensive training and experience in treating and assessing thyroid function.

PHOTO CATHERINE BEST

Get the drift Snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef is amazing, but Catherine Best heads up the Mossman River for a completely different underwater adventure.

DRIFT SNORKELLING

Port Douglas & Daintree Tropical North Queensland

Where rainforest meets the reef Indigo Port Douglas

Sheraton Grand Mirage Port Douglas

Voted the 2017 Luxury Travel Guide Asia & Australasia Charter Company of the Year!  Sailing, Snorkelling & Sunsets Cruises  Overnight & Extended Private Charters  Maximum of 12 guests.

Mention TIGER10 when booking for 10% off sunset cruises – direct bookings only

Rediscover an Icon Experience the revitalised resort providing an idyllic base to explore Far North Queensland



Colin +61 429 901 250 Ali +61 429 933 003 www.indigoportdouglas.com.au

+61 7 4099 5888 www.sheratonportdouglas.com

Hartley’s Crocodile Adventures

Visit Mossman Gorge

Hartley’s is the best place to interact with Australian native wildlife, including koalas and kangaroos in a natural setting. Only 25 minutes south of Port Douglas and 40 minutes north of Cairns. Highlights include crocodile spotting cruises, our famous Crocodile Attack Show, a wide range of wildlife and our amazing new ‘Gallery of Living Art’ reptile display.

Located only 15mins from Port Douglas, experience the wonders of the Daintree Rainforest and Mossman Gorge. The Centre features a café, art gallery, gift shop and tour desk. Quote “TIGER” and kids travel free on the shuttle bus into the National Park.

+61 7 4055 3576 www.crocodileadventures.com

+61 7 4099 7000 www.mossmangorge.com.au

#portdouglasdaintree

discover more go to www.visitportdouglasdaintree.com

DRIFT SNORKELLING

DRIFT SNORKELLING: IT’S COLD, BUT THAT KEEPS THE CROCS AWAY

R

iver swimming in Far North Queensland is usually a sure-fire way to win a Darwin Award for stupid ways to die.

Smart people know inland waterways are a no-go zone in these parts due to crocs.

Smarter people know that you can, in fact, outwit the crocs if you know where to swim.

I’m not that clever (or reckless), so I’ve joined Port Douglas local Jason Heffernan on a river-drift snorkelling adventure, which he promises won’t end in the jaws of a saltie.

“Technically there are crocodiles at the ocean end of the river, but it’s a very different ecosystem to where we actually explore,” he assures me as we rumble towards the Mossman River in a minivan. “It’s a clear, fast-flowing river, it’s cold; so these are three factors crocodiles don’t like.”

Cold is what beer is when it comes out of the fridge. Freezing is a better adjective to describe the water that sluices down the nape of my wetsuit, pricking at the nerve endings all over my body as I enter the water. It’s the kind of cold that catches your breath and seizes

your muscles. It’s a blast to the senses, perhaps because it’s so unexpected in the tropics.

Soon I have acclimatised and am prostrate on my tummy, caught in a game of blinkmanship with a school of sardine-sized Pacific blue-eye fish. A hail of electric-blue peepers fills my mask’s field of vision. Eastern rainbowfish flit through the shallows in silvery streaks, miniature flashbulbs firing in the sunlight. We’re in the lee of an eddy and the fish are easy to spot, schooling in the sun by the riverbank where they are sheltered from the current.

A fallen log has created a breakwater, and the river washes over the trunk in a smooth cascade, pooling into a churning, frothing basin. Under the water, the fallout looks like a disco ball bobbing inside a bottle of Schweppes; shards of light dance off bubbles, swirling and fizzing to the surface. I try to pull myself against the tide, edging hand-over-hand along a smaller branch, but it’s too strong and I’m sucked into the current and spat out downstream. The force of the water is ê deceptively strong.

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

79

DRIFT SNORKELLING

All that power and cold comes from upstream. The Mossman river originates in the World Heritage-listed Daintree National Park, feeding off a 300km-square catchment that forms part of the Great Dividing Range. Much of the water derives from cloud forest, not rain, producing water so pure you can drink it.

Thousands do. The Mossman – which drops a staggering 1,000 metres in 30 kilometres before spilling into the sea near Cooya Beach – supplies drinking water to Port Douglas and neighbouring villages.

We enter the water about five kilometres downriver from Mossman Gorge, changing into wetsuits by a sugar-cane field. Trudging a short way through the rainforest, my sweat creates a river of its own, trickling down my back and navel beneath a steamy layer of neoprene.

We walk upriver over smooth, rounded rocks in knee-deep limpid water so clear you could sell

it to Evian. The rainforest squeezes the river tight; great, thirsty buttress roots drinking at the shoreline under gigantic cluster figs.

The water looks placid, but the pull of the current is enough to send the feeble-footed sprawling. Jason demonstrates a few basic hand signals: elbow pointed, fingertips on head says I’m okay; no hands and bunny-inthe-headlights stare says get me out of here.

I take a deep breath and slink into the water, following Jason at a 45-degree angle across the river, which surprisingly leaves me parallel with where I started. This is a test. He’s making sure I can swim and won’t lose my nerve. I’ve passed, and we’re soon motoring face-first downriver. Just when I’m bracing to plough into tree roots and debris at the river’s edge, the water deepens, the stream curls in on itself and loses haste, disgorging me in a calm ê pocket as jungle perch scurry beneath me.

the might y mossman The snorkelling starts a few kilometres downriver from Mossman Gorge.

IT LOOKS TR ANQUIL BUT THE CURRENT IS STRONG ENOUGH TO KNOCK YOU OVER

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

81

DRIFT SNORKELLING

“The rainforest squeezes the river tight, great thirsty buttress roots drinking at the shoreline under gigantic cluster figs“ A FRESH WAY TO SNORKEL Far North Queensland is famous for the Great Barrier Reef and its saltwater treasures, which have been luring snorkellers and divers the world over for decades. But this is a unique snorkelling adventure you won’t find anywhere else in Australia. And, with 33 known species of fish, a surprising one at that.

I’m entranced by its delightful freshwater ecosystem, and will emerge feeling shiny-clean and invigorated.

For the best part of three hours, we drift, float and snorkel through water that, but for the swift flow, is so clear it’s almost invisible. We clamber over riverbeds of large pebbles and coarse sand, stopping at forks in the river to explore offshoot tributaries.

We duck dive in deep holes and sit in the shallows, creating a protective field that lures marine life to us.

Glass fish, near-transparent but for their skeletons, dart at our ankles. A tiny scaleless goby fish plays camouflage in the sand. Two juvenile eastern water dragons sunbake on logs. We pass a thicket of elephant ear plants and taro with Teflon-like waterresistant leaves, and pluck from wild vines juicy, plump passionfruit that are the best I’ve ever tasted.

It’s cold. The warmth of my face intermittently fogs my mask, and sudden movements invite ripples of icy water to infiltrate my wetsuit, sending my skin into a spasm of goosebumps. I can’t see them, but I know they’re there. It’s a relief to climb onto the river sled (think industrial-strength Lilo) and float for a while, taking in the scenery made famous in The Pacific, a US mini-series produced by Steven Spielberg and Tom Hanks. Fans of the show would be hard-pressed to recognise any of the scenes shot on the Mossman, though. The river is always changing, and that’s what Jason loves about it.

For the final leg of the journey, I float on my back on the sled, the dappled sunlight warming my face through a canopy of branches festooned with bird’s nest ferns. But not before we’re forced to ê

82

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

DRIFT SNORKELLING

The details THE TOUR Back Country Bliss Adventures runs half-day river-drift snorkelling trips. Owner Jason Heffernan used to work in education at the London Aquarium, so you’ll get the full lowdown on all the marine life. Tours cost $99 per person, including transport and all gear. backcountrybliss.com.au

S T AY S Pullman Sea Temple Resort and Spa For a swimming experience to rival the Mossman, check in to the Pullman Sea Temple Resort and Spa, with its mammoth 3,000-square-metre lagoon pool.

The resort is ideally located on Four Mile Beach. Rooms from $299. pullmanportdouglas.com.au QT Port Douglas Fresh and funky, with plenty of fish – courtesy of the enormous water feature – the QT Port Douglas does designer rooms with panache. For post-tour sundowners, the resort’s al fresco Estilo bar is hard to beat. Rooms from $249, including breakfast. qthotelsandresorts.com/port-douglas

P O S T- S N O R K E L , YOU CAN HIT THE TOWN IN CAIRNS

scramble through a tangle of fallen trees. They came down in the last heavy rains. Tossed about 20 metres up the riverbank, the mess of branches is a portent of the river’s volatile force.

PLENTY OF RESEARCH Before a tour, Jason spends a lot of time watching the weather radar, reviewing riverdepth indicators and studying the forecast. He’s always wary of “rain bombs” in the range that can swell the water level downstream by a few metres within minutes. “I’ve cancelled heaps of trips and it’s come to nothing. Better that though than the alternative,” he says.

Jason and his team recently completed a four-day swift-water rescue course in Tully, so you can be assured you’re in good hands.

He hasn’t had to seriously rescue anyone yet (he carries a rope just in case), and there are few river nasties to worry about. Platypus and freshwater stonefish do inhabit the Mossman, but the former are elusive and hardly a threat, and Jason has only seen the latter once: “It was like green granite, and they’re nothing compared to the [highly venomous] saltwater ones,” he says. Tree snags and the odd knee scrape on rocks are your greatest worry.

And if, by complete freak of nature, a creature of the reptilian, scaly and scary variety happens to find itself off course and upriver, at least you’ll see it coming.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Cairns from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne tigerair.com.au

84

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

TigerTales_halfpage_03072017_V9.pdf 1 4/07/2017 10:41:45 AM

#1 Gold Coast Wildlife C

M

Y

ATTRACTION

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

BUY ONLINE & SAVE! CurrumbinSanctuary.com.au

Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with à la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 35 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne.

Enjoy an authentic Japanese dining experience.

JAPANESE RESTAURANT

KENZAN.COM.AU | +61 (0)3 9654 8933

86

ti g e ra ir.co m

ROUTE MAP

Where to next?

Tigerair Australia serves 13 destinations right across the country

tigerair bases

darwin

cairns townsville whitsunday coast

brisbane gold coast coffs harbour perth

sydney canberra (act)

adelaide

FOR AN UP-TO-THE-MINUTE LIST OF OUR DESTINATIONS, VISIT TIGERAIR.COM.AU

melbourne (tullamarine) hobart

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

87

TIGERAIR NEWS

Tigerair flies 24 millionth passenger University student receives $500 travel voucher

Tigerair heads to Townsville Airline offers only direct daytime low-cost services between Melbourne and Townsville

T

igerair’s inaugural service between Melbourne and Townsville arrived at the north Queensland city on June 22 to a huge welcome. The sold-out service arrived on time, and first to depart was Tigerair mascot, Toby the Tiger, who also had a bagful of plush toys to hand out to all the kids on the flight.

Tigerair Australia Head of Communications, Vanessa Regan, says the airline is thrilled by the manner in which Townsville has embraced Tigerair since the new services were announced earlier in the year.

“As the only low-cost carrier providing direct daytime flights between Melbourne and Townsville, we are confident these services will prove particularly popular with our core market of budget and leisure travellers. Early indications are certainly pleasing with our inaugural services fully booked. Customers

88

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

choosing to fly Tigerair will have more daylight hours to spend in the outer at the MCG or on the sands of Magnetic Island once they arrive thanks to our flight schedule.

“The influx of almost 75,000 additional passenger seats through Townsville Airport each year will provide a welcome economic and tourism boost for the region. Queensland has always been an integral part of our network and with the commencement of today’s new route, almost 60 per cent of all Tigerair domestic flights now touch the Sunshine State.”

Townsville Airport Chief Operating Officer Kevin Gill said he was pleased to welcome Tigerair to Townsville for the first time.

“Tigerair’s entry into the Townsville market is reflective of the region’s increasing desirability as a travel destination,” Mr Gill said. “This is great news from both an inbound and outbound perspective, which will particularly benefit the leisure market.

“We look forward to showcasing our vibrant region to Victorians feeling winter’s chill at the moment.”

Tigerair’s lucky 24 millionth passenger, Freya Appleford, a Sydney-based university student originally from Hampton in Victoria, was surprised by Tigerair’s Head of Communications Vanessa Regan upon arrival at Melbourne Airport’s Terminal 4 and presented with a $500 travel voucher.

“This is an amazing surprise.

I regularly fly with Tigerair as I’ve just started studying in Sydney and find they’re a really great and affordable option when I’m looking to head home and visit family and friends,” Ms Appleford said.

Tigerair Head of Communications Vanessa Regan says the airline is proud to make air travel more accessible and affordable for many millions of customers since Tigerair first commenced operations in November 2007.

“Over 24 million customers is almost the population of Australia.

This passenger milestone is a great testament to the support we’ve had from Australian consumers,” Regan said. “Our fan base is growing and customers are voting with their feet."

TIGERAIR NEWS

Fly carbon neutral with Tigerair

PHOTOS JON HEWSON (THIS PAGE)

Low-cost carrier offers customers the chance to reduce their carbon footprint when flying Tigerair Australia has introduced a Fly Carbon Neutral program, giving customers the opportunity to offset their share of carbon emissions when flying.

Customers can choose to reduce their carbon footprint when flying with Tigerair, with the option available for purchase during the booking process or afterwards via the Manage My Booking function.

Prices are dependent on the route length, starting from $0.63 per person per sector for Tigerair’s shorter flights and ranging to $4.85 per person per sector for the airline’s longest services.

By flying carbon neutral with Tigerair, customers will be supporting the South East Arnhem Land Fire Abatement (SEALFA) project in Northern Australia, which uses strategic fire management activities to reduce the fire-generated

emissions of greenhouse gas through back burning. Wildfires account for three to four per cent of Australia’s greenhouse gas emissions, and those who choose to contribute will help Indigenous fire managers minimise this by reinstating traditional burning practices.

Tigerair Australia Head of Communications Vanessa Regan says the airline is pleased to introduce a carbon offset program and support a very worthy cause at the same time.

“At Tigerair, we continue to look at ways to support local communities wherever we fly. We are proud to be able to support SEALFA and the great work they do, through the introduction of our Fly Carbon Neutral program,” she said.

Tigerair’s Fly Carbon Neutral program is completely voluntary.

New Tigerair winter menu

through my own curiosity and my own need. At my 40th birthday, my youngest sister gave me the most wonderful compliment: “Rowie is the most creative individual I know; she can whip something up out of an empty pantry that will transport you in to food heaven.”

My passion for food also comes from my indulgent pleasure of cooking and sharing food with friends and family.

I love a good celebration!

Tigerair Australia has launched its new Tiger Bites seasonal inflight menu. The theme is “Street Eats At 30,000 Feet” and it offers more hot and cold menu items than ever before, at the same time, catering for a broad range of dietary preferences including gluten-free and vegan.

Rowie Dillon, Australia’s Gluten-Free Queen, provides much of the inflight sweet treats, and she talks to us about her passion for good food.

Where did your passion for food come from?

I was driven to pursue a career in food

Have your intolerances made you a better cook?

My gluten and dairy intolerance has made me a more experimental cook and a curious baker. Gluten-free baking and cooking is not only an art, but also a science. Gluten is the rubber band of baking and cooking – it’s the

ME L B OUR NE A IR P OR T T4 UP G R A DE Melbourne Airport recently revealed its new-look Terminal 4 (T4) gate-lounge precinct to travellers flying on Tigerair.

The enhancements made to the end of Pier F almost doubled the space by adding 1,600m 2 creating a 2,000m 2 area equivalent to two Olympic-size swimming pools. Other upgrades include more seating, additional toilet facilities, lift access and improved wayfinding.

rise and fall and the give and pull.

Take that out and you have to be able to put it back in by using different ingredients and methods delivering texture and taste by the bucket load.

What is your secret craving?

Dark chocolate and beetroot and, of course, my Rowie’s Veggie Burger.

What do you like for an inflight snack?

A Rowie’s Chewy Choccie Bikkie; baked in flight, of course.

Sydney's best gluten-free dining option?

If you’re after something very special, you can devour one of my gorgeous gluten free and vegan bread rolls at Sydney's finest establishments including the likes of Quay, Bennelong, Aria and Chiswick.

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

89

BNE PER

MELBOURNE BRISBANE SYDNEY PERTH

SYD OU T! 7–9 APRIL • 100KM T SO LD EV EN

16–18 JUNE • 55KM AND 100KM 25–27 AUGUST • 50KM AND 100KM

22–24 SEPTEMBER • 50KM AND 100KM

MEL

Photo: Mark Dadswell/OxfamAUS

YOU WON’T BELIEVE YOU CAN, BUT YOU WILL.

THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

Gardens

Spring

As the colder months fade, you can have a blooming good time all over the network.

BY CONNOR MCLEOD

Royal Botanic Gardens

Adelaide Himeji Garden

Sydney’s Spring playground could not be better situated with views of the harbour, the Sydney Harbour Bridge and with a gate that backs onto the Sydney Opera House.

Wander the manicured lawns, fine dine in the centrally located restaurant, or have a picnic amongst the huge Moreton Bay figs.

Sydney rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au

Inspired by Adelaide’s sister city in Japan, this tranquil garden features two classic Japanese styles: senzui, the lake and mountain garden; and kare senzui, dry garden. Guided tours of the garden can be booked in advance to help you better understand many of the features.

Adelaide adelaideparklands.com.au

The Gardens of Tieve Tara

George Brown Darwin Botanic Gardens

Popular in autumn for the amazing colours of the leaves, this private garden in the Macedon Ranges is just as popular once spring has sprung. Hanging blossoms cover the bridge over the man-made lake and spread across the 7.5 acres of this garden that changes with the seasons.

Open daily throughout spring.

Melbourne gardensoftievetara.com.au

Surrounded by natural beauty such as Litchfield National Park, Darwin’s 130-yearold botanic gardens are worth a visit, too.

This is an amazing collection of tropical plants and species from the north of Australia that makes it different from its southern counterparts.

Darwin nt.gov.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

91

Photo Credit|IG@sarahmbosworth

E S T. 1 9 9 9

W W W. M A D E I N E A R T H . C O M . A U L O S

A N G E L E S

-

M E L B O U R N E

-

D E L

M A R

@madeinearthofďŹ cial

THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S P R I N G Walk

Magnetic Island The Forts Walk (see feature, page 66) is just one of the options on this stunning Great Barrier Reef island just off the coast of Townsville. Exploring the island on foot is one of the best ways to experience the rugged beauty of the bays and beaches bracketed by impossibly stacked boulders. Try the Hawkings Point track, the bush track from Picnic Bay to West Point, or the easy walk from Nelly Bay to Arcadia.

Townsville magneticislandtourism.com

The Coast Track In Sydney’s Royal National Park, the Coast Track is a huge multi-day walk that takes in clifftop vantage points, hidden swimming holes and seasonal

wildflowers that are perfect in the spring. You can also see whales skirting so close to the coast you can hear them breathing – and September is one of the prime months for spotting these incredible creatures.

Sydney nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

Ghost House Walk Trail A coastal trek with a difference, the Ghost Walk Trail starts an hour north of Perth and takes in coastal wilderness and bird-filled wetlands of Yanchep National Park as well as the historic remain of the “Ghost House” – a decaying shell of a cottage that is said to be home to some restless spirits.

Perth trailswa.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

93

THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S P R I N G

THE SPOT

Airlie Beach at night

I

f Australia had a version of America’s Spring Break, the party strip at Airlie Beach would be a perfect fit. Year round this main street is packed with partygoers fresh from a day out on the Great Barrier Reef.

They might start at the fabulous Fish D’vine (303 Shute Harbour Road; fishdvine.com.au), which not only offers a seafood platter that would keep you alive for days if you were marooned on a Barrier Reef island, but also has a Rum Bar. Here you can have a much-

lauded mojito and over 500 rums on offer, some of which come flaming in a tiki glass; a top start to the night.

A wander up the road is Magnums (366 Shute Harbour Road; magnumshotel.com.au) a huge party spot that has many faces: you might watch people pay a surprising amount of money for a cane toad at the regular Cane Toad Racing, watch big Aussie bands like The Living End tearing up the Magnum bandroom, or hit one of the many pool tables.

Just a microphone’s throw from Magnums is Beaches (356 Shute Harbour Road; beaches.com.au) a tropical-themed pub with a killer karaoke night. And it’s live music every night of the week at the appropriately named Paddy Shenanigans (352 Shute Harbour Road; facebook.com/ paddys.shenanigans.airliebeach) which, on our visit, had the doorman by which all future doormen shall be judged: a gentleman that was reminding patrons of forgotten bags.

Shop Canberra Outlet Centre

Perth Mint

Outre Gallery

Tipple

Head to the capital’s top outlet shopping centre for a range of bargains from a host of top names including Bonds, Bose, R.M. Williams and Van Heusen to name but a few. Stop to refuel at food outlets like Caffe Cherry Beans.

Canberra canberraoutletcentre.com.au

A range of unique gifts is available at the Perth Mint, including commemorative coins that honour poet Henry Lawson or the Trans Australia Railway. Or browse the other gifts, like Swarovski Crystalinlaid watches.

Perth perthmint.com.au

Melbourne’s outsider art gallery in the city centre, Outre Gallery, has a great range of artists and regular shows including the dark arts of Annita Maslov (September 19-28). Check it out online for art and a great range of tiki mugs.

Melbourne outregallery.com

Having a spring party? Get alcohol delivered in under an hour with Tipple. Choose from a huge selection of beer, wine and spirits – and then keep on playing host instead of doing that emergency booze run.

Everywhere tipple.com.au

94

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

test SOME of the fas net la drivers on the p s ff return to the Co s Hire rd Coast for Kenna 16-19 n Rally Australia o November.

the Australia will be The 26th Rally Rally ld or W A e 2017 FI final round of th ingent nt co g bi bringing a Championship, and rs te or s, media, supp of drivers, team around world. spectators from , endurance, ds extreme skill The rally deman ves spectators amwork and gi te d an y er av br e. The WRC lose experienc a thrilling up-c nging series the most challe is regarded as it traverses l motorsport as in internationa

- 19 COFFS COAST, 16

NOV 2017

rences d extreme diffe 14 countries an ather surface and we in terrain, road conditions. e some t rally stages ar The Coffs Coas g on the tin tiful and exci of the most beau m co bining bonus for fans WRC circuit, a ort. eir favourite sp a holiday with th d cars see the stars an Spectators can nd la er nt dedicated hi up-close from the at , viewing points and state forest ar st t and d at the official Service Park an ies. finish ceremon and easy g is an exciting Rally spectatin u don’t everyone and yo experience for thusiast owledgeable en need to be a kn g and t of all it’s thrillin to have fun. Mos your ok t in early and bo up-close, so ge w! mmodation no flight and acco

.COM WWW.TICKETEK

A.COM.AU RALLYAUSTRALI FIA WORLD RALLY CHAMPIONSHIP INTERNATIONAL PARTNERS tm

FIA WORLD RALLY CHAMPIONSHIP INTERNATIONAL PARTNERS

THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S P R I N G

Art

National Gallery of Victoria

Art Gallery of NSW

Cairns Art Gallery

After the Winter Masterpieces are gone there's still plenty on offer at the NGV, such as the work of photographer Bill Henson at NGV International (until August 23). And a celebration of Australian art in the 1990s (until October 1), at NGV Australia.

Melbourne ngv.vic.gov.au

The big ticket in Sydney is O’Keeffe, Preston, Cossington Smith: Making Modernism, showing how the artists Georgia O’Keeffe, Margaret Preston and Grace Cossington Smith presented a new way of looking at the world through their art.

Sydney artgallery.nsw.gov.au

The confronting works by Samoan artist Greg Semu will be on show at the Cairns Art Gallery until September 17. Semu looks at the plight of First Nations people in both Australia and his previous home of New Zealand using large-scale photographic works.

Cairns cairnsartgallery.com.au

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

97

the tale end

Let your pictures tell a story We want your photos on the Tigerair Australia Instagram feed.

Add the hashtag #tigerairau to your travel snaps and they could appear as part of Tigerair’s social media.

2

BR I S B A NE Queensland @zjrphotography

1

WA L L A M A N FA L L S

PALM COVE

Townsville @tamberkley_brothers

Cairns @jamesvodicka

#tigerairau We would love to see your pictures, so use this hashtag when you travel with us!

98

ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

3

ti g e ra ir.co m

99