Tigertales February - March 2018 by Citrus Media

tigertales

TAKE ME AWAY

Australia | February – March 2018

TRADING PLACES

➔ Comedian Rhys Nicholson recently moved from Sydney to Melbourne. Which does he prefer?

PEAK PRACTICE

W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S

THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE

A quirky pub crawl in the Adelaide Hills

Two very different travellers take on Sydney

Where is Victoria’s most undiscovered wine region?

VI SI TC AN BE RR

A. CO M .A U

Exhibitions | Events | Workshops 5-20 May 2018 Sydney, Australia

headon.com.au

WELCOME ON BOARD

Flying high in 2018 After a huge 2017, Tigerair looks forward to another year of exciting changes

elcome aboard and thank you for choosing to fly Tigerair today. On behalf of everyone at the airline, we hope you enjoyed a safe and happy festive period and New Year with your friends and family. Last year was a busy one for our airline, with the launch of five new domestic routes and a range of new product enhancements to make flying Tigerair easier and more enjoyable than ever before. As 2017 drew to a close, we commenced flights between Hobart and Gold Coast, providing the only direct low-cost option between the two popular tourist destinations. With the Commonwealth Games commencing in early April on the Gold Coast, we expect these services to prove popular over this period. In December, we also announced in-flight entertainment will be installed onboard all Tigerair services in the near future. This announcement is particularly exciting as it means you will have access to a wide range of the latest movie and TV titles (courtesy of Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation and Fox Networks Group) when flying Tigerair from early 2018, making your trip more entertaining and enjoyable than ever before. New state-of-the-art slimline leather seats will also be installed across our fleet of B737 aircraft from March 2018, with enhanced comfort among a number of customer benefits from this upgrade.

We also recently introduced as an industry-first the option to increase standard 7kg cabin baggage allowance by 1kg at a time, up to a maximum of 12kg per person per sector. Keep an eye out, as more new products and innovations remain in the pipeline to make booking and flying Tigerair better than ever. Looking forward, our focus remains on continuing to deliver

affordable and reliable air travel with friendly service, allowing you to experience new destinations and spend time with your loved ones without breaking the bank. We hope you have enjoyed a great start to 2018 and look forward to welcoming you back onboard in the near future.

Peter Wilson, Tigerair Australia Acting CEO

“As 2017 drew to a close, we commenced flights between Hobart and Gold Coast, – the only direct low-cost option between the two popular tourist destinations” ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

CONTENTS

Destination directory Inside this issue… wherever you’re going, we’ve got you covered ENCOUNTER

reef teach c a ir n s Learn more before you take the plunge

13 A new footy season kicks off in Townsville

37 Check out Brisbane's new art shows

T H E S P LU R G E

va n t a g e p o in t

An architectural Jenga game in Lorne, Victoria A quirky pub crawl through the Adelaide Hills

ENCOUNTER

bees and mammoths Sydney's newest exhibitions

F E AT U R E

21 18 50

melbourne comedy f e s t i va l Comedian Rhys Nicholson writes for us

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Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Designer Cynthia Lau Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott

Advertising National Advertising Manager Stephanie Kavanagh (02) 8188 3668 stephanie@citrusmedia.com.au

Cover photo Rhys Nicholson, photographed by Samara Clifford

Printed by Bluestar Web

Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au

© 2018 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder. Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

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The bee's knees See the Pollination exhibition in Sydney

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ns ê Learn more a o i t i bo xhib ut e t r th a eG e n a r b

f before you dive ê e e Th er R i eb r r es a B tb t a ru e

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THE POINTY END

T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O

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G R O OV I N T H E M O O The line-up for this regional touring festival – that delights in showcasing music outside the big cities – dropped at the end of January and features veteran Paul Kelly as well up-and-coming locals like Alex Lahey and overseas acts like Portugal. The Man. Across Australia, March and April; gtm.net.au

T O M AT O F E S T I VAL SYDNEY Taking place in the Royal Botanic Gardens on the weekend of February 17-18, this celebration of the humble tomato includes the Longest Tomato Lunch – a tomato-inspired menu on a 70-metre table – as well as talks, cooking schools and tomato taste tests. Sydney, February 17-18; rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au

S Y D N E Y R OAD S T R E E T PAR T Y As part of the Brunswick Music Festival, Sydney Road is shut down for six stages of live music stretching from Union Street to Victoria Street. This year the party celebrates 30 years of the city’s biggest street celebration. Melbourne, March 4; brunswickmusicfestival. com.au

EVENTS

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A NIGHT WITH CAMERON SMITH AND JT On February 23, as a pre-season rugby league special event, two Queensland legends face off at the Cameron Smith and Johnathan Thurston Testimonial Match at Suncorp Stadium. Brisbane, February 23; ticketek.com.au

AL O N E Jerome Borazio, the brains behind Laneway Festival, is bringing an immersive theatre experience to Melbourne. ALONE uses the city's laneways and unused spaces as a stage, leading you on a journey that may include a ride in a van or meeting mythical creatures in a down-and-out hotel. Melbourne, February 14; aloneexperience.com.au

IMAGE ANTHONY SMITH

PERTH MINT Check out the recent releases from the Perth Mint that include pure gold, pure silver and pure platinum coins, as well as some quirkier collectables like a silver proof coin that replaces the traditionally staid head of monarchs with a colourful bust of Scooby-Doo. Perth; perthmint.com.au

S P OR T POL ROGER B E AC H P O L O On Glenelg Beach in February you'll hear the thunder of hooves as the Beach Polo series takes place right on the sand. Grab tickets for seats and a glass of bubbles at the Beach Bar of the Sesion Tequila Beach Club. Perth, February 10; beachpolo.com.au

TA S T E O F T H E H U O N This March, the Taste of the Huon will celebrate all the food, wine and arts associated with the region in Tasmania. The Huon Valley, D’Entrecasteaux Channel and Bruny Island are now being recognised among Tasmania’s leading tourist destinations. Find out why. Hobart, March 11-12; tasteofthehuon.com

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THE POINTY END

Learn about the Great Barrier Reef in Cairns

WORDS DEBORAH DICKSON-SMITH

he Great Barrier Reef is on many people’s to-do list, but it can be a little intimidating: so big, yet made up of unimaginably tiny animals living in a complex ecosystem. (What even is a coral?) It’s a place where the reef’s myriad wildlife goes about its daily, unfathomable business, but also a place under pressure from complex external threats like climate change. So how can you make sense of it all, so that ultimately you can enjoy a greater experience? Reef Teach is a one-night interactive seminar in Cairns that you can take yourself along to before you hop on a cruise to the outer reef. What you learn at Reef Teach will help you get the most out

of your trip, armed with the knowledge you’ll pick up from a single evening’s session. Though Reef Teach is presented in a classroom format, it’s a highly entertaining and engaging evening. The presenters are a cross between stand-up comics and your old science teacher on steroids. They present amazing facts and beautiful images, woven together in a kind of comedy sketch to help you understand how our reef works. From the tiniest creatures that you hardly know exist, up through the various species of fish and marine mammals, the material is presented in two halves. The first half covers the little stuff: hard corals, soft corals, sea fans and sea anemones – all ê

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THE POINTY END

“Reef Teach was born out of demand for people wanting to know more about the Great Barrier Reef“

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of which are animals, or colonies of animals – not plants. That’s right, Nemo’s home is a predatory marine animal. The second exciting half covers all the big stuff that call our Great Barrier Reef home; colourful reef fish, sharks and rays, reptiles like turtles, and mammals such as whales and dolphins. And it is all presented in a very accessible way. As Gareth Phillips, Reef Teach owner and one of the presenters explains: “Reef Teach was born out of a demand for people wanting to know more about the Great Barrier Reef. So, a group of us marine biologists got together and decided to share our knowledge – what we know about this ecosystem, so when people visit it they understand it more and enjoy it more. Most importantly, we find that if they understand it and enjoy it more every time they use it – whether snorkelling or diving – they’re more responsible with it.”

It’s true that snorkelling and scuba diving are much more enjoyable when you know what you’re looking at. At Reef Teach they are committed to their motto: “With learning comes appreciation”. By the end of an evening at Reef Teach you’ll be able to identify many of the common fish and corals, be amazed at the extraordinary creatures out on our reef, and be incredibly excited about your planned adventure. The presentation assumes no prior knowledge and is suitable for anyone with even the mildest curiosity for what lies below the ocean’s surface. As the evening comes to an end, you’ll be thrilled at your new-found ability to recognise and comprehend a lot of what you see – not just identify species, but understand the special relationships between different species, such as fish being groomed by other fish at cleaning stations, or the special bond between corals and their resident algae, the Nemos and their anemone homes. The presenters will also give you some practical tips for your day trip, including how to avoid seasickness and how to take a good photograph underwater. ê

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THE POINTY END

Three ways to see the reef Jump on a boat after your Reef Teach seminar

REEF MAGIC TOURS Get a catamaran straight from Cairns to the Marine World platform which is suitable for all levels. reefmagiccruises.com

Q U I C K S I LV E R C R U I S E S Dive the reef, check out the underwater observatory or take a helicopter ride over this natural wonder. quicksilver-cruises.com

REEF EXPERIENCE Take a day tour with Reef Experience, a familyowned operator with an all-inclusive offering. reefexperience.com.au

DIVING THE REEF IS MORE FUN IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING AT

The marine biologist presenters will answer your questions about any aspects of marine life, and can also shed light on threats to the Great Barrier Reef (and all reefs), such as Crown-of-Thorns sea stars, coral bleaching, and marine plastic pollution. You’ll be surprised to discover some heartbreaking facts about man’s disregard for this extraordinary underwater environment, but also inspired by what you can do about it. In order to cater for numbers, Reef Teach appreciates a heads-up that you’re coming. So to book your spots, call or email to save your seats. Then just turn up around 6:15pm and pay at the door. For more information and to book a session visit reefteach.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Cairns from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

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2018

THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

VANTAGE POINT Lorne, Victoria

hy it’s worth it: This is the perfect cliffside retreat for a large family or a group of friends with a house that appears to architecturally tumble down the steep incline providing a range of breakout spaces that give all occupants somewhere to escape – from the topside library to a basement games room. Lorne is the gateway (literally, there is a gate to

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drive under) to the Great Ocean Road, two hours’ drive south-west of Melbourne. It is also on the doorstep of the waterfalls, forests and ferns of the Cape Otway National Park. Bang for your buck: You are only minutes from Lorne’s busy beachside cafes and eateries, but this property is too good to leave, so stock up and

stay home where you can sip wine with the parrots that gather on the balcony at sunset. Send someone to the supermarket to buy fresh seafood, local cheeses and craft brews from Rogue Wave Brewery in nearby Torquay, then just kick back. The success of a selfcatered stay can live or die on how quickly it feels homey, and with attention to detail like a packed-to-the-gills board games cupboard, quality books and magazines and a simpleto-connect-to Bose stereo, Vantage Point is home in no time. The digs: Looking like a giant’s game of Jenga and set in the nosebleed section of Lorne, Vantage Point is an angular wooden creation where every room strains to get the beach view (including a sliver of window in the main bedroom shower). The bedrooms have luxe soft furnishings in tones of the sea and the couches are big enough to get lost in for a weekend. Kitchen is a pro set-up that just begs for a big cook-up to happen.

all about the view This stunning property sees every corner of Vantage Point strain to get a view across Lorne’s beaches.

Must-do experience: Lunch at the Wye Beach Hotel. Just 25 minutes from your stay, you can take in some of the switchbacks of the Great Ocean Road then perch on the balcony overlooking Wye Beach under the watchful eye of the pub’s wooden mermaid – and tuck into some great pub food.

WORDS PAUL CHAI

The damage: Vantage point costs $825 per night (minimum two-night stay), stayz.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 10 destinations; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

Hang with bees and mammoths in Sydney

WORDS CATHERINE BEST

ees are mostly solitary creatures. The proverbial “swarm of bees” made famous in popular culture (we’re thinking of you, Winnie the Pooh) is actually outside the norm for most species. Visitors will learn this and more at the new Pollination exhibition at Sydney’s Royal Botanic Gardens. Housed inside The Calyx, the garden’s recently redeveloped glasshouse, Pollination is a sensory assault of the eyes and nostrils. The centrepiece – a six-metre high, 50-metre long floral wall (the largest indoor one in the Southern Hemisphere) – houses more than 18,000 potted plants. Each sits

inside a vertical well, fed by an intricate hydration system that dribbles water through 2,000 drippers. From the living canvas of flowers and foliage the letters P-O-L-L-I-N-A-T-I-O-N pop. On the ground, another 4,000-odd plants sprout from flower beds, each arranged in colour groups to illustrate the story of pollination. At the entrance are white varieties – predominantly pollinated by nocturnal critters and moths. Next are red, orange and yellow flowers that are irresistible to birds, and lastly blue and purple blooms that attract bees and butterflies. The display is constantly changing as a team of horticulturalists sub plants in and out. ê

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THE POINTY END And you don’t need to be a green thumb to appreciate it. “We’ve had an awful lot of positive feedback from visitors,” says The Calyx’s senior horticulturalist John Larsen. “I think the wow factor when you walk in, the amount of colour that’s in your face in such a condensed space, is pretty great.” It’s sure creating a buzz. The exhibition’s mobile of dangling blue-banded bees is an Instagram hit, and the setting – beneath a mist-shrouded glass canopy with glimpses of the city skyline – is hard to beat. Nearby at the Australian Museum, a new exhibition pays homage to beasts of an altogether different kind. Mammoths – Giants of the Ice Age transports visitors millions of years back in time to when these hulking relatives of the Asian elephant roamed the earth. You won’t find any living exhibits here, but there’s a host of mindboggling megafauna relics, including woolly mammoth tusks more than two metres long, teeth bigger than a human head and skulls the size of a bar fridge. The prize display is Lyuba, a 42,000-yearold baby mammoth. The most complete and well-preserved specimen of her kind, Lyuba almost looks as though she could trample out of her glass enclosure (but for the missing ear and tail, which were nibbled off by a dog after her recovery from a thawing

“The prize display is Lyuba, a 42,000-year-old baby mammoth – the most complete and well-preserved specimen of her kind”

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See it for yourself T H E D E TA IL S Pollination is open daily between 10am-4pm in The Calyx at the Royal Botanic Gardens. The exhibition closes on July 29, 2018. Admission is free. rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au Mammoths – Giants of the Ice Age is open 9:30am-5pm daily at the Australian Museum. The exhibition closes on May 13, 2018. Adults from $20, children from $12. australianmuseum.net.au

T H E S T AY The recently renovated Mantra 2 Bond Street is centrally located, has a rooftop pool and is walking distance to the Royal Botanic Gardens and the Australian Museum. Executive studio apartments start from $271 a night. mantrahotels.com/mantra-2-bond-street

THE PRE VIOUS C ALY X EXHIBITION WAS ALL ABOUT FLOWERS

Siberian riverbed). If you look closely, you can even see fine hairs on Lyuba’s legs and fungal pockmarks on her head. It’s the first time Lyuba – on loan from the Shemanovsky museum in Siberia – has ventured outside the Northern Hemisphere to a continent far removed from her ancestral homeland. Bringing Lyuba to Australia was a huge coup for the museum, and she’s in good company. The mammoths exhibition features more than 100 specimens from 15 institutions around the world and includes fossils, casts, seven full-scale replicas and cave drawings. It’s not often a museum invites people to man-handle the displays, but here visitors are encouraged to “please touch” exhibits, such as an ox pelt with fur similar to a woolly mammoth. The kids can play fight with tusk levers, test their coordination with a simulated mechanical trunk, and even poke around prehistoric poo against a backdrop of life-sized beasts, including a mammoth, bear, mastodon and big cat. The exhibition also debunks a few common myths. Woolly mammoths are not ancestors of elephants (but they belong to the same family). Nor did they help build the pyramids of Egypt. For the record, mammoths were still around when the pyramids were built (about 4,500 years ago) but were confined to Siberia, about 6,000 miles away.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Sydney from seven destinations; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

Why I live in

s y dne y Jack Grace is a producer/vocalist/pianist who hails from Sydney. Jack’s EP If I Tremble is released in March and the laidback piano and plaintive vocal on the lead single “Us” is a great example of a short-player written while travelling. Jack tells us what he loves about his hometown. Tell us about your new EP? It’s a collection of tunes I wrote while I was on the road and worked on and finished between my bedroom in Kings Cross and a studio I shared for a while in Marrickville. It’s three-parts pessimism, one-part optimism. What makes Sydney a great place to live? I love that it brings people from around the world together. I would guess only a quarter of my friends were born here. This makes life interesting. Moving here from rural NSW eight years ago there was an energy in Sydney that I found intimidating at first, but now I realise Sydney taught me how to work, how to finish things and back myself. It’s sometimes tacky and we’ve had to live with some average political decisions recently, but Sydney is bigger than that stuff for me. Where are the best places to get a good meal/drink? Malibu (62 Foster Street, Surry Hills) for the best sandwiches. El Jannah in Granville (4/6 South Street, Granville; eljannah.com.au) for the best chicken. Young Henrys in Newtown (younghenrys.com) for beers. Fratelli Paradiso (12-16 Challis Avenue, Potts Point; fratelliparadiso.com)

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for any celebration. Pizza Madre (2/205 Victoria Road, Marrickville) for pizza and wine. Malacca Straits on Broadway (5/66 Mountain Street, Ultimo; malaccastraitsbroadway.com.au) for the best Malaysian. Cafe Cre Asion (21 Alberta Street, Sydney; creasion.com.au) for breakfast. Where can you go after a show? Beers and some snacks at Chat Thai in Thai Town (20 Campbell Street, Haymarket; chatthai.com.au). It’s open till 2am and the supper menu is my favourite. What is the one thing a visitor must do? Sydney actually really is about the water. If you are short on time there’s so many options close to the CBD. If you have time, it’s worth exploring the Royal National Park down south. If you prefer calm waters try Camp Cove or Redleaf, mornings or evenings when the light is nice. Tell us something only a local would know… Fatimas on Cleveland Street (296 Cleveland Street, Surry Hills; fatimas.com.au) is open until 3am. Order a spinach pie while you wait for your kebab to cook and whenever the guy behind the counter suggests additions to your order just accept them.

HEAR JACK GRACE

Jack Grace’s If I Tremble is out in March through Of Leisure/ Polydor. For more information visit ofleisure.com.au.

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THE POINTY END

Check out the Gold Coast cafe scene

WORDS MATT SHEA

he Gold Coast is on a roll. In 2018, the city’s population is booming, tourists are returning and cranes once again dot the Surfers Paradise and Broadbeach skylines. The Commonwealth Games kick off in April, completing an almighty transformation for the town since it won the bid to host the event in 2011. Back then, the Gold Coast was on its knees. The Global Financial Crisis had strangled the international tourist trade, a high dollar doubling down on the misery. But the GFC also had the secondary effect of forcing the Coast to reinvent itself and look inward

for growth. It swept away tired and lazy operators, a new wave of independent cafes, bars, boutiques and restaurants rising in their place. Brenton Rickard watched the transformation, the former champion breaststroker and now manager of sports services for the Commonwealth Games having moved to the city in 2009. “Everyone kind of realised, ‘Hang on, we still have half a million residents,’” Rickard says. “These locals need somewhere to go and eat, somewhere to socialise, somewhere that adds to a sense of community.” Of course, in early-rising Queensland it was the cafes that came first. From Southport all the ê

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THE POINTY END

Family feasts PANCAKES ON THE ROCKS Take the kids for chocolate pancakes with coconut cream, vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce and raspberry coulis, just a short walk from the beach. 4 The Esplanade, Shop T1, 31, Surfers Paradise; pancakesontherocks.com.au

THE BEARDED DRAGON You can grab coffee and feed the wildlife at this Mt Tamborine cafe and beer garden. LOT 2 Tamborine Mountain Road, Tamborine; beardeddragon.com.au

BSKT Killer smashed avo and healthy options right near the sand on Mermaid Beach. 4 Lavarack Road, Mermaid Beach; bskt.com.au

THE BEST GOLD COAST DINING COMES WITH A SIDE OF TOURIST WATCHING way down to the New South Wales border, the city now peddles some of the best coffee and brunch on Australia’s east coast. “They’re serving locals who like their food, like their coffee, like their wine,” Rickard says. “There’s a lot of these places that tourists miss but are fantastic.” Perhaps most popular with locals is Paddock Bakery (20 Hibiscus Haven, Miami; paddockbakery.com). On the corner of an old industrial block next to a smash-repairs shop, owners Ursula and Ben Watts have taken a couple of run-down Queenslanders and turned them into a mecca for wood-fired baked goods. It’s the smell of fresh bread, doughnuts and croissants that will draw you in, but Paddock has a surprisingly diverse (and very well-priced) food menu. For breakfast, try creme fraiche scrambled eggs on sourdough or a bacon Benedict bagel. Later in the day it’s Vietnamese chicken salads and hunky BLT and turkey cranberry sandwiches. Everything is washed down with expertly made Single O coffee, best enjoyed in the front garden with a side of tourist watching. They tend to come curious and leave converted. Further down the Gold Coast Highway in Palm Beach is Barefoot Barista (Shop 5/10 Palm Beach Avenue, Palm Beach;

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“They’re serving locals who like their food, like their coffee, like their wine“ barefootbarista.com.au). Liz Ennis and Dean Hyland’s little cafe that could has existed for over six years now, becoming something of an early morning go-to for the gentrifying surrounding suburb. Barefoot Barista itself has evolved too, doubling in size in 2013 and adding a larger kitchen, which these days punches out some of the best breakfasts on the coast — think poached eggs on Boston beans or served with Coopers ale-caramelised sausage. Coffee comes from celebrated Sydney roaster Gabriel, served either as espresso or V60 pour-over. Really, though, a lot of Barefoot’s charm comes down to the digs themselves — a dark, wood-lined escape from technicolour Queensland mornings. Where to sit? Perhaps out back in the greenery-festooned courtyard. If you’re staying closer to Surfers Paradise, one of the first of the coast’s food and

service-focused cafes is just a short walk inland from the beach. Bumbles (21 River Drive, Surfers Paradise; bumblescafe.com) sits on a shady corner looking across the Nerang River and over 12 years has become a local icon. There are lunch and high tea menus, but breakfast is the pick, dealing in gentle variations on the classics such as a Benedict duo and an F.A.T. – feta, avocado and tomato on toast. Grab a seat outside. With a coffee, a newspaper and views out towards the water watching the locals go about their earlymorning exercise, you’ll quickly feel at home. And that, perhaps more than anything, defines the new Gold Coast — a sense of community. The tourist town turned local’s town that just happens to once again be attracting tourists. “Hopefully, that new-found sense of community has made it more attractive,” Brenton Rickard says. “There are so many different places and beautiful spots that cater for a wider variety of visitors.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to the Gold Coast from Sydney, Melbourne and Hobart; tigerair.com.au

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Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with Ă la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 35 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Enjoy an authentic Japanese dining experience.

JAPANESE RESTAURANT

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THE POINTY END

THE FEAST 1 0F 2

SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND What does it mean when some of the best new restaurants in a city are found in the outer suburbs?

ustralia’s cities are, in most instances, radial, due to the way they developed following the World War II automobile boom. This results in most of the action occurring in, or close to, each city’s Central Business District (CBD). This factor has been particularly true when it comes to dining. While the suburbs have always had gems known to locals, generally focusing on the cuisines of the immigrant groups that settled there, the hot spots, the restaurants with buzz, the must-eat places in town, have been in the CBD. In recent years, however, things have been changing. Hot spots have been emerging in suburbs where they haven’t usually been found – in middle and outer

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

BE YOND THE CBD The Glenn Murcutt-designed Berowra Waters Inn was one of the first fine diners to find an audience beyond Sydney’s CBD in the 1980s. The restaurant was famously accessed by private ferry or seaplane and drew a who’s who list of clients and remains a great spot to head out of town under its current head chef Irish-born Brian Geraghty. For more information visit

berowrawatersinn.com

suburbs not known for an abundance of quality food options. Melbourne’s Attica, for example, has one of the most inventive degustation menus in the world, but you won’t find it anywhere near the CBD. Rent is one reason for this. Commercial rents have risen quite rapidly and for many would-be cafe owners and restaurateurs, the money required to set something up in the centre of town is prohibitive. Rent is simply too high. With residential rents and property prices also rising, desirable parts of Australian cities have become prohibitively expensive. For young people moving out of home and paying rent, or those looking to upsize and buy their family’s first home, often the only option is to look further from the centre. And as

a suburb’s population increases, so too does the demand for quality eateries. Some of the suburbs experiencing high population growth are areas that have not historically had a large residential population. For example, the historically industrial, working-class suburb of Brunswick, 4km north of Melbourne’s CBD, has a mixture of areas zoned for industrial, residential, and commercial uses. As its population has increased, many of the industrial areas have been rezoned to residential and commercial, and numerous apartments have been constructed. This younger, middle-class professional demographic has created a demand for food and drink hot spots, and the dining character of the area ê

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THE POINTY END has changed. Cafes and restaurants catering to factory workers and the historic Italian and Greek immigrants of the neighbourhood are disappearing, and places more commonly associated with trendier areas, are opening. Some argue that these changes are eroding the character of the suburbs, with family-run restaurants that reflect the area’s history being replaced by burger joints, or cafes serving matcha lattes and smashed avocado on toast. But while it’s true that an aspect of sameness and trend-following can be seen with some of the places opening up, this isn’t true of all openings. Change is a constant of any vibrant part of a city, and in many cases, it creates a vibrancy that may not have existed in the past. Here are five spots worth checking out in suburbs that may surprise you.

Cornersmith (Marrickville, NSW) Marrickville, located 7km south-west of Sydney’s CBD, has in recent years gone from being an unfashionable industrial suburb to the craft-beer centre of Sydney – but it’s not just the beer that draws people here. The family-run Cornersmith opened in 2012 and quickly built a reputation as one of the must-see new cafes of Sydney. Those who visit are treated to a cafe with a focus on ethical food production, sustainable business practices and community engagement. The seasonal menu showcases local makers and growers, with blackboards showing customers the origin of all ingredients. The cafe also features a retail shop and cooking school, and the family also runs a second Cornersmith in Annandale, another suburb not historically known for its dining options.

Altair (Warrandyte, VIC) The very definition of an outer suburb, Warrandyte lies 24km north-east of Melbourne’s CBD, a stone’s throw from the Yarra Valley. Altair is owned by husband-and-wife team Kelvin and

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THE FEAST 2 0F 2

"SOME ARGUE THAT TRENDY EATERIES ARE ERODING THE CHARACTER OF THE SUBURBS" Michelle Shaw, who quit their jobs and mortgaged their house in order to build the restaurant. To say that this is a project of passion is an understatement. Kelvin heads up the kitchen while Michelle runs front-of-house. Altair is inviting without pretension, and is a spot where people can enjoy good food that focuses on local produce and native ingredients. The lunch and dinner menus straddle casual and fine dining.

Rossonero (Maylands, WA) Head 4.5km north-east of Perth’s CBD and you’ll find yourself in Maylands, a former working-class suburb with a bit of a sketchy reputation that is now one of Perth’s most up-and-coming spots. Several eateries and bars have opened up on buzzing Railway Parade, including Rossonero. The pizzeria is owned by experienced restaurateurs Nat Atkins and Fil Pakioufakis (formerly of Clarences, Bivouac, The Brisbane, Neighbourhood Pizza) and just like their previous venues, their focus is on quality. Come for the thin-base pizzas featuring a range of quality classic and inventive toppings, and stay for the delicious ice-cream sandwiches featuring house-made choc-chip cookies.

Low & Slow American BBQ (Port Adelaide, SA) Port Adelaide, located 14km northwest of the Adelaide CBD (you might

be noticing a trend here) is a former industrial suburb that has been rejuvenated in recent years. Today the area is home to several cultural attractions, and more recently the suburb’s food scene has kicked up a notch. Low & Slow American BBQ has a reputation as one of the best American BBQ spots in Adelaide, with tasty pulled pork, brisket, ribs and more. It’s served up in a space that is part American roadhouse, part Australian outback, and one of the owners, Angus Henderson, lives just around the corner.

Local Pizza (Berriedale, TAS) Biting into a slice of a proper Neapolitan wood-fired pizza is one of the simple pleasures of life, and one of the best spots in Hobart for it is Local Pizza. Think wood-fired, hand-stretched slowdough, made using a blend of Italian and Australian flour for a crust with just the right balance of chew and crunch, topped with free range, local and highquality ingredients. Flavours range from the classics, to more inventive creations. Berriedale is known to most as the suburb where MONA is located, and while the dining options at MONA are also a great example of what this article is all about, those with a hankering for some quality pizza are well-advised to head up the road to Local Pizza.

THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture online magazine The City Lane, and he is one third of the craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective. Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.

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THE PACK

T HE P L AY L I S T

THE POINTY END 1

Pack these on your next trip away

STUFF TO BUY BEFORE YOU GO

Ü 1 K ATHMANDU EARTHCOLORS HOODED PULLOVER Kathmandu's most sustainable hoodie yet is dyed with patented EARTHCOLORS that come from nutshells, leaves and vegetables. The hoodie is made from 70% recycled plastic bottles and 30% ethically sourced, traceable cotton. $119.98; kathmandu.com.au

1 2

VA R I O U S A R T I S T S WE OUT HERE

Gilles Peterson's Brownswood Recordings is on a tear right now, as is London's young jazz scene. Bringing the two together was always going to lead to something special. Directed by saxophonist Shabaka Hutchings, this collection has ferocious cuts from the likes of Moses Boyd and Ezra Collective. Ideal for… WOMADelaide 2018

2 T H I S I S H O W I T E N D S B Y E VA D O L A N Passion. Suspense. Murder. This gritty new thriller is the perfect accompaniment to a beachside holiday. $27.99; bloomsbury.com

3 DJI SPARK CAMER A DRONE This compact quadcopter features an integrated camera with motorised stabilisation to capture 12MP photos, 1080p Full HD videos, and even aerial selfies. The drone's compact size, 50 km/h top speed and up to 16 minutes of flight time will help those looking for more dynamic travel shots. $629.95; teds.com.au

2 NESS NITE

DREAM GIRL

The Minneapolis-based singer, rapper and producer first turned heads in 2016 with her Nite Time EP, which peddled a kind of slow-poison RnB unlike anything else coming out of the USA at the time. This full-length debut is both more precise and more propulsive. Terrific stuff. Ideal for… your back-to-class study sessions

4 AMERICAN TOURISTER CURIO Stylish and fun, American Tourister luggage is trusted all over the world. Endorsed by global brand ambassador Cristiano Ronaldo, the Curio collection is packed full of features. It’s lightweight, expandable, has dual spinner wheels for easy rolling and has a TSA lock system for security. Priced from $239; americantourister.com.au

5 VEGE CHIPS Vege Chips started as a “healthy alternative” snack and were sold at the local Gold Coast & Byron Bay markets. Vege Chips have more flavour, less fat and no hidden nasties. Check out the new Vege deli range. RRP from $3.39; vegechips.com

White Glo's breakthrough Activated Charcoal Toothpaste draws out impurities and discolouration on tooth enamel. Pack it on your next trip. $5.99; whiteglo.com

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YA M A N E K O

SPA COMMISSIONS 6

You know the spa industry is on a roll when it's approaching London beatmakers for massage music. That’s the origin of Yamaneko's Spa Commissions, a series of blissful cuts that quickly transports you elsewhere. Check for tracks like the quiet electronica of “Glacial Heal Aid” and the careful stop-start repetition of “Yaeyama Islands”. Ideal for… yes, your autumn spa session

ALBUMS MATT SHEA

6 WHITE GLO

THE POINTY END

Head to an event in Townsville

WORDS LISA WOOLFE

rom a music megastar to mountain biking adventures, Townsville’s annual roster of events kicks off this March with a huge range of things to do. Sports fans won’t want to miss one of the first AFL Games of the 2018 season when Gold Coast Suns take on the Geelong Cats (March 4). From the first whistle to the final siren, catch all the action of the Gold Coast Suns vs Geelong Cats in the opening match of the AFL’s 2018 JLT Community Series.

Once the game is finished at Townsville’s Riverway Stadium, why not head across to Cannon Park for a bite to eat, to relax in the neighbouring lagoon pools or to see if you can score a strike at the nearby Kingpin bowling? Catch the North Queensland Toyota Cowboys at a home game in Townsville while enjoying the fun family atmosphere and plenty of game day action. This is a must-do when you’re in Cowboys country and the North Queensland ê

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THE POINTY END

“Ditch the ordinary and have an extraordinary girls' weekend away“

Make a weekend of it Avoid post-event blues and keep the good times rolling with these three epic ways to extend your Townsville North Queensland holiday

M A G N E T I C B Y N A M E , M A G N E T I C B Y N AT U R E ! Catch a 20-minute ferry from Townsville’s CBD and feel a world away on the tropical island paradise of Magnetic Island. With 23 bays and beaches, you’ll be almost guaranteed to have one all to yourself.

DISCOVER A R AINFOREST VILL AGE AMONGST THE CLOUDS Take a road trip just north of Townsville to Paluma. This enchanting village amongst the clouds is Townsville’s answer to Fern Gully. Swim in the crystal-clear waters under the stone arched bridge, take a stroll through the rainforest, soak up the ambience while chasing waterfalls, or enjoy a coffee at one of the quaint cafes.

TICK OFF THE BUCKET LIST It’s nature’s greatest gift to the world, so it’s not surprising to find the Great Barrier Reef at the top of everyone’s bucket list. Stop dreaming and jump on-board a dive or snorkel trip to experience the Great Barrier Reef in all its glory. If you’d rather not get wet, why not enjoy it from above in a helicopter tour?

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Toyota Cowboys' season kicks off in March. Tired of the clichéd coffee catch-ups and shopping excursions? Ditch the ordinary and do something extraordinary on your next girls weekend away with a Women’s Mountain Bike Retreat (March 8-11). Destination Adventure (destinationadventure.com.au) offers a series of amazing active retreats held on the stunning Magnetic Island. This March, enjoy a fun weekend of mountain biking, yoga and free-diving, all set amongst a tropical island paradise.

TOWNSVILLE LOVES ITS SPOR T, WHE THER IT IS THE AFL OR NRL

More events C O M M O N W E A LT H G A M E S

GROOVIN THE MOO

April 5-10 The city plays host to basketball games as part of the 2018 Commonwealth Games. gc2018.com

May 6 Groovin the Moo music festival offers a party vibe with acts like Ball Park Music and Confidence Man. gtm.net.au

F E S T I VA L 2 0 18 April 4-15 Festival 2018 will feature a mix of highly acclaimed theatrical productions, an eclectic array of world-class musicians, breathtaking dance and physical theatre pieces, striking visual art and Indigenous arts practice. townsville.qld.gov.au

A U S T R A L I A N F E S T I VA L OF CHAMBER MUSIC July 27 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; August 4 The Australian Festival of Chamber Music presents the finest musicians from around the world in a wonderfully unique and innovative nineday program of 30 concerts set in the tropical warmth of Townsville North Queensland. afcm.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Townsville from Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END TRAVEL & WELLNESS

1 0F 2

THE PASSENGER A round-table chat with three different travellers. This issue’s topic: wellness

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

Paul Chai, too busy travelling The only time I feel the need for a wellness holiday is when I return from a real holiday. I generally spend my travels exploring, eating and drinking – and we’re not talking salads and kombucha tea.

Part of this is the nature of the job. As a travel writer you're generally trying to uncover the good stuff, and while that can mean looking for a great yoga class, for me it's generally finding the best bar, the guiltiest street eats or that place that only opens up after midnight.

On a recent trip to Laos when my fellow travellers were booking into the in-house spa, I had discovered “bowling”; a late-night bar that circumvents the 11pm curfew in the centre of Luang Prabang by opening in a bowling alley just outside the World Heritage-listed boundary. It's a wonderfully shambolic affair serving Mekong whisky from card tables and warm cans of Beer Lao from the counter usually reserved for renting out bowling shoes. In the morning my compatriots at the resort looked far more rested than me, but I had precisely zero regrets. I've so far managed to avoid retreats and health camps, preferring to push myself as much as possible on my travels to conquer my severe FOMO. I could not sit silently on a mountainside in a country I had never been to before; there's too much new stuff to see and do. If I'm going to go on a cleanse, start exercising or take up meditation – which is highly unlikely – I'm more likely to do it when I am at home. Sure, life is busy, but there are down times. When I'm travelling, the only real down time is when I'm in transit, and that's hardly the time to start chanting or finding oneself – finding the right airport gate is work enough. The perfect night out in a new country where you find local music, great drinks and new BFFs for the night is a kind of meditation. I find a blowout restorative anyway – for the mind, if not the body. ê

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THE POINTY END TRAVEL & WELLNESS

2 0F 2

Sarah Mitchell, takes time out I love a good retreat. It's a chance to get away from the rat race to refuel myself physically, mentally and emotionally so I can come back and face reality. Because the reality is you don't have time to do that in your real life where work, family and friends take up all your energy. You have to find the right retreat for you, but on a good getaway you'll have time to yourself to restore your energy, but also a range of activities to help you release stress or change negative thinking. You have time to reflect but also learn new skills to help you keep stress at bay when you return to the real world. I know it's time for a good retreat when I feel tired all the time, or stuck, or just overwhelmed with all the things I have to get done. Getting away from home and not looking at all the things I need to do gives me the chance to take control of my life again. One of the best retreats I ever went on was a yoga retreat in Bali. It wasn't just a few classes, but was a really deep dive into yoga theory, philosophy and meditation classes in an open-air studio overlooking the rice terraces that spill down the hills in the centre of the island. The food at this resort was all-vegan and very healthy and eating it made you feel pampered. There was also a lack of unhealthy distractions, so it was easier

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YOU WOULDN’T CATCH ME OUTSIDE A YURT SHARING MY FEELINGS IN A DRUM CIRCLE BUT, TO ME, A WELLNESS HOLIDAY IS A TRIP THAT SEES ME BEING PHYSICALLY ACTIVE

to eat well. Back at home I'm likely to be tempted by that chocolate bar, but under the positive peer pressure of a yoga retreat I tend to stick to the good stuff. Good eating, positive thinking and physical restoration – you may find that a wellness retreat is right for you and that you come back from holiday in a better state than when you left.

Connor McLeod, likes keeping active You wouldn’t catch me outside a yurt sharing my feelings in a drum circle but, to me, a wellness holiday is a trip that sees me being physically active. Better still if it's a repetitive activity, like going on a long cycling trip where the transport is part of the exercise. Long cycles are a kind of meditation to me as you concentrate of pedalling correctly and keeping a good pace. I find learning things improves my mental health. Concentrating on gaining a PADI certificate in Fiji or taking part in a series of workshops is a successful wellness retreat for me. If I feel I've

spent my time away gaining a new skill or finding out more about a new culture then I tend to feel better about myself in general. To gain knowledge is to gain confidence and improve your understanding of the world, but that's about as hippie as I get. Joining a cycling trip that explored the Victorian High Country was a great wellness getaway for me. The trip took us up the rail trails around Tallarook and into the Victorian Alps. While there I got mountain biking lessons to improve my downhill skills (which were wanting) and got a refresher course in bike maintenance one afternoon when the weather was not very forgiving for shooting down the side of a mountain on wheels. When I came home I felt tired but stronger, healthier, and was a dab hand at sorting out my bike problems – and I had really earned a cold beer at the other end.

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THE POINTY END

Take in an exhibition in Brisbane

WORDS MATT SHEA

very morning, Simon Elliott arrives at his workplace to find a line of people waiting to get inside. For most of us, this would be a total drag. Not for Elliott. “It’s great,” he says. “You see them lining up and you think, ‘Yay!’” Simon doesn’t have any old job. As deputy director of the Queensland Art Gallery and Gallery of Modern Art – or QAGOMA (Stanley Place, Cultural Precinct South Bank; qagoma.qld.gov.au) as the combined acronym has it — he’s second in charge at the state’s foremost cultural institution. But describing the combined galleries as an institution in 2017 seems borderline disingenuous.

Eleven years after it joined the older Queensland Art Gallery in South Brisbane, GOMA in particular has become a Queensland cultural phenomenon. Via a series of blockbuster exhibitions – Andy Warhol, Picasso, Matisse and its regular Asia Pacific Triennials – it has not just popularised art in Brisbane, but democratised it. “The diversity of our audience is refreshing,” Simon says. “There’s an energy and youthfulness. The older, art-educated audience is important to us, but other people come to simply see what it’s like.” ê

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THE POINTY END

It helps when the gallery is in the midst of its latest superstar exhibition, an exhaustive survey of the work of iconic Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The natural humour in Kusama’s work – the big colours, its sense of scale and playfulness – draws people in. But for Simon and his colleagues, the challenge is often to leverage that immediate interest into a deeper engagement with the work. “A well-crafted show gives people different points of access,” he says. “With Kusama, we go right back to her early years … she was doing performance work that rivalled Warhol and the Factory guys. This sort of stuff can be a revelation even for people in the art world.” Kusama kicks off another busy year for QAGOMA. Upcoming exhibitions include an ambitious Patricia Piccinini show that will mix the enormously popular Melbourne artist’s existing work with a suite of new

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“A wellcrafted show can be a revelation even for people in the art world“

commissions. Later in 2018 comes the combined galleries’ signature event, the ninth edition of the Asia Pacific Triennial. “We started doing the Triennial in the 90s, when it was totally unfashionable,” Elliott says, laughing. “So by now, moving into APT9, we have the experience and the knowledge to run a great show.” They also have the collection. QAGOMA started buying works from the very first APT. It means the institution holds a world-beating array of art from the Asia-Pacific region. It also means that, regardless of what’s on at QAG or GOMA, there’s always something to see. And maybe that’s the ultimate litmus test for QAGOMA – that people often come without even knowing what’s on. Brisbane’s love for a good exhibition isn’t confined to QAGOMA. Across the river, the Museum of Brisbane (City Hall, 64 Adelaide Street; museumofbrisbane.com.au) regularly taps into the arts and the city’s history, making it something of a Rosetta Stone for visitors to the Queensland capital. Now’s a great time to visit, the museum peddling an exhaustive exhibition on the life of Li Cunxin – Mao’s Last Dancer author and now artistic director of Queensland Ballet. Featuring original objects and costumes, interviews, personal documents and found performance footage, the exhibition follows the ballet star’s story from his birth in Mao Zedong’s China to his selection for Madame Mao’s Beijing Dance Academy to his eventual defection to the United States. It’s engrossing stuff.

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QUEENSLAND'S MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES ARE FULL OF NEW EXHIBITIONS

“There’s a growing complexity in consumer tastes and an appetite for learning about art“

IMAGE GETTY IMAGES

But it’s not just the major institutions that feed Brisbane’s appetite for art. Scattered throughout the city is a bunch of independent galleries exhibiting the work of emerging local and international artists. TWFINEART (181 Robertson Street, Fortitude Valley; twfineart.com) is one of the more innovative. Owner Tove Langridge returned to Brisbane in 2014 after years working in the New York art scene and noticed there was a market for introducing cutting-edge contemporary American painters to a local audience. “The Australian art scene can be fairly regional,” Langridge says. “But the world is much more globally minded these days. People want to look at these things and collectors want to buy things that have significance.” Hence a Jonni Cheatwood exhibition that will take over the gallery in March – the LA-based Cheatwood is known for combining pop art, graffiti and focusing on patterns to create works that feel remarkably fresh – and shows later in the year from Philadelphia’s Taylor Anton White and San Francisco’s Kimberly Rowe. Langridge also views the Brisbane art scene symbiotically. Those big shows at GOMA

often draw in interstate and international visitors who will also make time to stop by TWFINEART. Most of all, there’s a growing complexity in consumer tastes and an appetite for learning about art. “A lot of times galleries aren’t friendly places,” he says. “So I really try to make it an environment that’s not like that. There are collectors who know what they’re doing but there are other visitors who want to learn and we’ll try to help educate them.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane from eight destinations; tigerair.com.au

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䨀䔀一一䔀一匀䠀伀䔀匀⸀䌀伀䴀⸀䄀唀

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䄀唀匀吀刀䄀䰀䤀䄀 ⴀ 圀䤀䐀䔀

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Behind enemy lines Comedian Rhys Nicholson recently moved from Sydney to Melbourne. With the Melbourne International Comedy Festival kicking off in March, he gives us his two cents’ worth on the long-held rivalry between the two cities. PHOTOS SAMARA CLIFFORD

ne day if I have children, I will sit them down and tell them tales of the great war. The long, silent battle that raged in our nation for generations. The clash of two ancient titans. A conflict for the ages. The original Game of Thrones. When I’m finished my stories, one of the kids will ask me “So Dad, did they ever work it out? Which is the better city? Melbourne or Sydney? …or Canberra?” I’ll stare off into the middle distance, and avoid the question. They’re too young to know. They weren’t there. They wouldn’t understand. Spoiler alert: it’s not Canberra. As someone who’s lived in Sydney for almost a decade and has recently defected to the Garden State, you’d think I’d be the perfect person to ask. I have the scope. You’d think I would have noticed very nuanced quirks and differences between these places. You’d think. Unfortunately, being a millennial, I do not take notice or interest in the world around me. Fortunately, however, being millennial, I am also pretty sure I know everything worth knowing. Gosh, the older generation must feel lucky they made us. Who else would tell them they are outdated and have no idea what they’re talking about? We truly are a gift. So, here is my guide on how to get what you need in each city with all my opinions based on broad and sometimes vaguely offensive generalisations. Enjoy. ê

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MELBOURNE INTERNATIONAL C O M E D Y F E S T I VA L 2 0 18 Taking place from March 28 to April 22, the Melbourne International Comedy Festival has its usual exhaustive list of great shows from locals (veterans the Doug Anthony Allstars and a newly beardless Zoe Coombs Marr) to internationals (Ross Noble and David Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Doherty). For a full list of shows and to book tickets visit comedyfestival. com.au

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KNIFE FIGHT

“In Sydney the waitstaff will make you think that they want to help, but don’t be fooled“

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WORDS XXXX PHOTOS XXXXX

Let’s start with food. Nature’s answer to the protein shake. If you’re not a model or suffering from a severe anxiety disorder, you need food to survive. But how do we get food? Well, if you’re anything like me, your fridge is empty and most of the time you are way too hungover or overwhelmed by the state of the world to prepare anything yourself. Instead, how about you put on a large pair of sunglasses and head out to a cafe or restaurant where you can sit and someone with an arts degree will bring you sweet, sweet sustenance. The main differences I’ve noticed between Melbourne and the Big Smoke is the approach the wait staff take to service. In Sydney, it seems like it’s all about service. The person working there will generally be a bright and cheerful United Kingdom expat. They will make you think they want to help you. But don’t be fooled. They don’t. When asked if the chicken is organic, a waitress could answer “I’ll just check with the kitchen” and come back thirty five minutes later with no real answer. It’s all a passive-aggressive act to fill in time between trips to Bondi Beach. Whereas in Melbourne, culinary delights tend to be all about the experience. Your waiter will be handsome, cold and dressed like a background actor in Heartbreak High. Melburnian hospitality workers don’t pull any punches with how they feel about you. They give off a fun “why are you here?” vibe. Well, considering I just paid $35 for a salad, I’m not sure either. Whatever happens, no matter what type of establishment it is in either city, be sure to talk loudly about the other city and a meal you had there once that was far superior. They’ll love it. They will absolutely not do anything gross to your food. Pro tip. ê

MELBOURNE VS SYDNEY

Rhys’s take on two cities FAVOURITE BAR Melbourne: Gin Palace 10 Russell Place, Melbourne; ginpalace.com.au Sydney: Golden Age Cinema and Bar 80 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills; ourgoldenage.com.au

FAVOURITE CAFE Melbourne: Cumulus Inc (for breakfast) 45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne; cumulusinc.com.au Sydney: 212 Blu 212 Australia Street, Newtown; 212blu.com

FAVOURITE RESTAUR ANT Melbourne: Marion Wine Bar 53 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy; marionwine.com.au Sydney: Continental Delicatessen 210 Australia Street, Newtown; continentaldelicatessen. com.au

FAVOURITE PL ACE TO REL A X Melbourne: Onsen Ma Japanese Bath House 12-18 Meyers Place, Melbourne; onsenma.com.au

WORDS XXXX PHOTOS XXXXX

Sydney: Camperdown Park “Sitting, slightly day drunk at the end of spring in Camperdown Park.

Rhys Nicholson was photographed in Amelia Shaw, the upstairs cocktail bar at the Retreat Hotel, 280 Sydney Road, Brunswick; facebook.com/theretreathotel Wooden tram and other props from designer homewares store Make Me Iconic; makemeiconic.com

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MELBOURNE VS SYDNEY

WISHFUL DRINKING Now that you’ve eaten and your sponsor is out of town, how about a drink? The city of Melbourne offers a plethora of incredible watering holes for any taste or budget. Whether it be after work beers or a late-night cocktail with someone special, Melbourne truly is the place to be. And, if you want a nice quiet late-night drink in Sydney, I recommend you head out of the city centre a little bit. For example, just a nine-anda-half-hour drive down the M31 is a great place called Melbourne. They have opted for the classic “we don’t have lockout laws and everything is fine” stance. I applaud their bravery. ê

sipping point If you want a late-night drink in Sydney, Rhys Nicholson suggests a short nine-and-ahalf-hour drive to Melbourne

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MELBOURNE VS SYDNEY

THE CULTURE WARS

“Sydney is more like a Movie World stunt show“

Bored? Of course you are. Although often with all this “whole fabric of society falling apart around the world” business, it can be tough to relax and find fun things to do. It seems to me Melbourne is for the most part lauded as having a larger sense of culture and entertainment. This is pretty much true, but this can also mean Melbourne is right up its own ass. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if I’m watching a deep piece of challenging street theatre, or is that just two homeless people having a broken bottle fight in a train station. I’m not sure and I’m not asking. However, I implore you, don’t disregard Sydney completely. Sydney has more culture than a petri dish. The difference is, in Sydders, everything is a bit more upfront. I always think about it as Melbourne is a Flower Festival and Sydney is the Warner Brothers Movie World Police Academy Stunt Show. In Melbourne you can see theatre, cabaret, enormous sporting events or wander around the countless big and small galleries. Sounds fun, right? While Victoria offers up all this, the New South Wales capital is more about cheap (expensive) thrills. If you want something fun to do why not ê

SEE RHYS NICHOLSON Rhys Nicholson’s new show Seminal is touring throughout March and April as part of the comedy festival season. Rhys had a huge year last year with an ARIA nomination for his show Rhys Nicholson Live at the Eternity Playhouse and a successful season for his show I’m Fine. Seminal starts its run in Canberra on March 23 before moving to the Melbourne International Comedy Festival from March 29 to April 22 at the Swiss Club. The show then moves to the Perth Comedy Festival on April 27 and the Sydney Comedy Festival from May 17 to May 20. For more information, visit canberracomedyfestival. com.au; comedyfestival.com.au; perthcomedyfestival.com; sydneycomedyfest.com.au; or follow Rhys on Twitter, twitter.com/rhysnicholson

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MELBOURNE VS SYDNEY

“Unfortunately, being a millennial I do not take notice or interest in the world around me“

head to Darling Harbour and zip around on a jet boat? You could climb the Harbour Bridge? Or if you really want a rush, eat a doner kebab combo at 3am in an unregistered takeaway shop and wait 45 minutes. You’ll never know excitement like it. So there you go. Did I answer your question? Did you even have a question? I can’t remember. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting you to read this far. Does it even matter? I mean, the only people who care about Sydney and Melbourne are the people who live in Sydney or Melbourne, right? Get over yourselves Sydney and Melbourne. No one cares. You want my real recommendation? Maybe try Canberra? I’ve heard Questacon is beautiful this time of year.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne and Sydney (and Canberra); tigerair.com.au

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DESTINATION SYDNEY

DE S T IN AT ION S Y DNE Y

ME L B A

dines out on all the great food Sydney has to offer

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION, TWO DIFFERENT ADVENTURES FEED YOUR BODY VS FEED YOUR MIND

IAN

takes a film and vinyl tour, with some snacks thrown in

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WEEKEND WARRIORS OP SHOP S TREE T

ON YOUR BIK E When a chef conjures up a potion as perfect as ramen with eggs and bacon, you savour every last atom of it. Tucked inside an actual motorbike workshop, Rising Sun Workshop (1C Whateley Street, Newtown; risingsunworkshop.com) is tricky to find, but well worth the effort.

Newtown’s King Street is an op-shopper’s Mecca. With more than a dozen quality vintage stores on this 1km stretch of road, the likelihood of uncovering a gem is very high. I was rewarded with a snazzy little Carla Zampatti number from 1972 that I’m quite convinced was made to my exact measurements.

HIT TING THE DELI Shopping is thirsty work, so I head to Continental Delicatessen (210 Australia Street, Newtown; continentaldelicatessen. com.au) to rehydrate with an early afternoon Newtown Sour and a sneaky snack of perfectly oozy French cheese and mouth-watering Italian cold cuts.

ME L B A

visits a deli, a holein-the-wall noodle joint and a French restaurant

f r id ay

10:00

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ICE CRE A M BRE A K

RE A DY TO ROL L A visit to Marrickville isn’t complete without the tastiest cheap lunch option in maybe the whole of Sydney – a $4.50 sandwich from Marrickville Pork Roll (236A Illawarra Road, Marrickville)

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Afterward, I indulge in a generous serving of exquisite gelato flavours at the beautifully decorated Gelato Franco (281 Marrickville Road, Marrickville; facebook.com/ gelatofranco). Tips: Tiramisu and Rockmelon.

BUCK E T LIS T An essential stop for lovers of craft beer and novices (me) alike, the relatively new bottle shop and bar Bucket Boys (300 Illawarra Road, Marrickville; bucketboys.com.au) has already established itself as an essential part of Sydney’s Inner West.

DESTINATION SYDNEY

SM A L L BUT PERFEC TLY FORMED

SHOP TIL L YOU DROP Obviously, Sydney Tower (100 Market Street, Sydney) is a marvel of modern architecture, but today it’s what’s on the inside that counts: seemingly endless floors of high-end local and international designers. After blowing the bundle I saved vintage shopping, I consider applying for a new credit card.

If not for the eager diners hovering outside this hole-in-the-wall eatery, you’d walk right by Chinatown Noodle Restaurant (77 Bathurst Street, Sydney). Specialties include hand-pulled noodles, sticky braised eggplant and egg-and-chive dumplings.

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S WEE T NIGHTC A P A short stroll uptown and I find myself at Restaurant Hubert (15 Bligh Street, Sydney; restauranthubert.com), a swanky new hot spot that specialises in ooh la la French cuisine and cocktails. While I somehow manage to resist the allure of a second dinner, I crumble at the sight of the delectable desserts being bussed by the impossibly stylish waitstaff.

19:00

IAN

snacks on a pork roll, chases some vinyl and catches a movie

SCREEN TIME

VIN Y L COUNTDOWN I then head up to Repressed Records (413 King Street, Newtown; repressedrecords.com), one of Sydney’s best record stores. Come for the comprehensive selection of predominantly (but not exclusively) punk and outsider music, stay for the amazing mini-bookstore within.

A little further up King Street is the 10-screen Dendy Newtown (261-263 King Street, Newtown; dendy.com.au) cinema, showing all the latest arthouse and mainstream releases, with comfy couches in the smaller cinemas upstairs (feel free to spread across if it’s a sparse session).

ROUND MIDNIGHT Classic rock, blues and R&B records dominate the playlist at Midnight Special (44 Enmore Road, Newtown; themidnightspecial.com.au), a cosy small bar frequented by locals, with an extensive drinks list and tasty bar snacks.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

TO M A RK E T Some, it seems, come to the weekly Carriageworks Farmers Market (243 Wilson Street, Eveleigh; carriageworks.com.au) for the native Australian flowers and the fresh organic produce, while others come for a bite to eat before dropping into an art exhibition or live performance. I came for all of that, plus the opportunity to ogle a seemingly endless parade of pampered pooches and the humans they have in tow.

MIL KING IT

SH A K E IT UP Always mindful of keeping up my fluids, I hightail it to Redfern’s Donut Papi (34A Redfern Street; donutpapi.com) for a strawberry milkshake that has ruined me for all other strawberry milkshakes. It comes with pink whipped cream and sprinkles, and it’s darn delicious.

Fully fuelled and raring to go, I arrive at what might be one of Sydney’s most photogenic beaches – secluded, pristine and with stunning views of the city skyline, I’m grateful to discover that while busy on the this 30-degree day, Milk Beach (52 Vaucluse Road, Vaucluse) hasn’t been overtaken by hordes of tourists.

ME L B A

heads to the market, to a city beach and out on the town for a gig

S AT UR D AY

08:00

10:30

12:00

MMM DOUGHNUT S

POK E M A N Poke fever has been sweeping Sydney lately, and Toke N Poke (Cnr of Erskineville Road and Wilson Street, Newtown; tokenpoke.com.au) is probably the best place to get a taste for this Hawaiian fish salad dish.

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I treat myself to some of the best doughnuts (and coffee!) in town at the curiouslybut-memorably-named Grumpy Donuts (72 Pyrmont Bridge Road, Camperdown; grumpydonuts.com). You can’t go past the Maple Bacon and S’mores flavours, in particular.

CL A SSIC CINEM A The first of two cinema trips today is Sydney’s most beautiful and nostalgic cinema, the Hayden Orpheum Picture Palace Cremorne (380 Military Road, Cremorne; orpheum.com.au), with its frequent screenings of classic and cult films and live Wurlitzer organ performances.

DESTINATION SYDNEY

THE ATRE L U V VIE The decades-old trailblazer that is Belvoir Street Theatre (25 Belvoir Street, Surry Hills; belvoir.com.au) is among Australia’s most celebrated companies, and on this occasion, I am gladly reminded of its ability to be both daring and inclusive.

SOME THING FISH Y Motivated by my revitalising ocean swim, I make a beeline for the Sydney Fish Market (Bank Street & Pyrmont Bridge Road, Sydney; sydneyfishmarket.com.au). This place is so expansive that being spoilt for choice by the mountainous piles of barely-off-the-fishing-trawler fish and shellfish is part of its appeal.

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OL D SKOOL CINEM A As I descend the stairs to the subterranean Golden Age Cinema and Bar (80 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills; ourgoldenage.com.au), I’m instantly transported to a plush Hollywood set. As Satur-daters vacate the lovingly restored art deco theatre after the evening’s last screening, I take my place close to the stage in the bar area, for tonight I have come to see local heroes Phanosland perform a free live gig on the Golden Stage.

20:00

IAN

checks out two classic cinemas and some doughnuts with attitude

HOT WINGS

PURE GOL D The single-screen Golden Age Cinema and Bar (80 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills; ourgoldenage.com.au) is named for its retro decor more than its programming, which encompasses classic, cult, as well as new release arthouse and mainstream films (and has a bar area, with a stage for regular live music performances).

Hot Star Chicken (96 Liverpool Street, Sydney; hotstarchicken.com.au) is a short walk away – a little takeaway place near the corner of Liverpool and George Street, serving delicious, slightly spicy Taiwanese fried chicken.

GOING SOF T Afterwards, I walk a few minutes to Aqua-S (27/501 George Street, Sydney; aquas.co) for soft-serve, sea-salt flavoured ice cream (with one other fortnightly-rotating flavour; my pictured one is mixed with latte flavour) in a black sesame cone, served with a range of toppings (my pick: burnt marshmallow).

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

TIME FOR THE MC A BREK K Y GR A M It seems there are three conditions a dish must meet in order to make it to the Cornersmith (314 Illawarra Road, Marrickville; cornersmith.com.au) menu: all ingredients must be sourced locally, it must be as tasty as possible, and it must be 100% Instagrammable. I’m pleased to report my breakfast was all that and more.

The Museum of Contemporary Art (140 George Street, The Rocks; mca.com.au) is packed with challenging work by this generation’s leading artists from Australia and beyond. Today I’m drawn here by ‘Sip My Ocean’, an expansive immersive light and video installation by Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist.

THROWING SH A DE By this point, I’m desperate for some tranquility and I find it in the shade of a hundred-yearold tree on the water’s edge at the Royal Botanic Garden (Mrs Macquaries Road, Sydney; rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au).

ME L B A

eats brekky in Marrickville and has lunch at the Opera House

S UND AY

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B AGEL TIME I start off the day by feasting on the gourmet wood-fired bagels at Smoking Gun Bagels (129-129A Cathedral Street, Woolloomooloo; smokinggunbagels.co), delicious either on their own or as a sandwich (favourite name and filling: You’re Just Too Good To Beetroot).

FIL M CL UB

SHOP WITH E V ER Y THING For film, music and literature nerds, Radio Free Alice (134A Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst; radiofreealice.com) has all your needs covered – this shop is the labour of love of the intimidatingly knowledgeable James Tsai, who’ll help you scratch itches you never knew you had.

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Continuing the physical media theme, I head a few doors down to Film Club (136A Darlinghurst Road, Darlinghurst; filmclubsydney.com). A DVD rental store in 2018 may seem a little quaint, but owner Ben Kenny’s wide-ranging collection of (often imported) DVDs and Blu-rays shows how far variety and discerning curation goes in the age of online streaming.

DESTINATION SYDNEY FERR Y MCFERR Y FACE

OPER ATIC L UNCH As if the panoramic views of Sydney Harbour and dazzling architecture of the Sydney Opera House, which houses the restaurant, aren’t enough, the food at Bennelong Restaurant and Bar (Sydney Opera House, Sydney; bennelong.com.au) tastes like it was prepared by angels in heaven.

Today is really all about taking in the breathtaking views of Sydney Harbour from as many perspectives as possible, so I hitch a ride on the Manly Ferry (Circular Quay, Sydney; manlyfastferry.com.au) and head northside. The trip takes 30 minutes and offers uninterrupted views of the Bridge and the House.

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BE ACH SH ACK CHIC I’ve barely disembarked the ferry when I stumble into Papi Chulo (22-23 East Esplanade, Manly; merivale.com.au/ papichulo), an American BBQ-style beach shack (but fancy) conveniently perched on Manly Wharf. The finger-lickingly good food and drinks replenish me after my sea voyage and leave me in good stead for my onward journey.

19:00

IAN

goes to a film club, gets a bagel and ends with a taco

TACO TIME

FRIED HE AV EN Butter (6 Hunt Street, Surry Hills; buttersydney.com.au) is a fried chicken joint and a shoe store... I can’t vouch for their shoes, but I can for their burgers and fries – I’ll be dreaming about them for some time to come.

A R T AT TACK Then, onwards to the Art Gallery of New South Wales (Art Gallery Road, Sydney; artgallery.nsw.gov.au). Obviously an essential visit for the galleries, but make an effort to turn up at 2pm when there’s a classic film showing in the cinema downstairs as part of their exhibition-adjacent screening series (entry is free, and the prints are invariably in excellent condition).

El Loco (64 Foveaux Street, Surry Hills; merivale.com.au/ elloco) is a Mexican cantina in Surry Hills with excellent margaritas, tequilas and tacos, and a daily happy hour from 6-8pm. A longtime Mexican food lover, I sampled almost every delicious item on the menu.

FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors, get in touch.

tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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ADELAIDE HILLS PUBS

The hills are alive Discover the quirky, untamed pub and bar scene in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills, where you will find lip-smacking local wines, home-made spirits, micro-brewed beer and incredible design. Samuel Smith spends a day in the hills. PHOTOS TOURISM SA

ne of my few self-imposed rules in life is not to drink before midday, yet somehow I’ve found myself in a converted 1920s cold store, sitting face-to-face with a flight of straight spirits at 11:30am. I’m perched on a stool in Ochre Nation, an alcoholic Willy Wonka Chocolate Factory housing Applewood Distillery, Unico Zelo wines and Harvest wines: three labels created by husband and wife winemakers, Laura and Brendan Carter. Outside, the tiny Adelaide Hills town of Gumeracha (population 731) is abuzz with daytrippers making the most of the region’s lush walking trails and the thawing South Australian sun. I turn back to my spirits and prepare myself for glass number one. Expecting a harsh slap in the face, I’m greeted with a delicious buttery zing. It’s as if someone’s chucked a lemon meringue pie in the blender. “This is our limoncello,” beams staff member, Anita Decoster, “and we’ve never met anyone who hasn’t loved

it.” I then get to work on the Applewood Okar that combines bitter, herbal Amaro liquor with the cranberry tartness of Australian riberries, finger limes, lemon myrtle and rivermint. Next is the signature Applewood Gin – a citrusy explosion of desert lime and 25 botanicals. To finish, I’m treated with the Applewood Distillery Espressocello – a so-good-itshould-be-illegal mix of vodka and extrastrong espresso. Part of the Ochre Nation experience is a guided tour of the sprawling property, and I’m in awe as Anita guides me through room upon room, packed with spindly copper piping, bubbling vats and churning tubs of miscellaneous liquid. “This is an experimental whisky we’re making. Want to try some?” she asks, filling a glass from what appears to be a steaming test tube, before leading me back to the tasting room where a group of spiritmakers are peeling lemons into a tub for their next batch of limoncello. ê

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The appeal of Adelaide’s hilltop ‘hood After a decade of foodie expansion in Adelaide, the city is overflowing with world-class food and wine, but running out of space. So the brave have jumped ship, ascending 30 minutes to the Adelaide Hills – a region filled with farm-fresh produce, lush, rolling hills, quaint towns and some of Australia’s finest wine country. Some of the state’s biggest names in food, wine and design have followed, melding city chic with country charm to create a new era of drinking and dining.

A SLOW START Of course, the day began on a less alcoholic note, with breakfast in the town of Crafers. Tucked away in the Adelaide Hills, just 30 minutes from Adelaide’s CBD, its storybookpretty main street is bordered by gentle rolling hills, a smattering of local shops, parks and character homes. It’s also the gateway to the famed Adelaide Hills wine region. Smack-bang in the middle of town lies the Crafers Hotel. Completely redeveloped and oozing style, the Crafers boasts an avant-garde interior featuring statement artwork, a jungle of indoor plants, reclaimed wood, leather, iron, copper and exposed stone. Newly appointed head chef Ben Carli has brought with him a love of French cuisine that is evident in the eclectic menu featuring everything from parmigiana to filet mignon. Wash it all down with the one of the state’s most impressive wine lists, straight from the Crafers Hotel’s exceptionally stocked wine room.

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THE LUSH LOUNGE BAR AT THE CR AFERS HOTEL IN THE ADEL AIDE HILLS

Walking through Crafers’ leafy streetscape, straight into one of the slickest pub interiors in Adelaide is an experience I’ll never tire of. Even at 9am, the hotel is drawing people in with its gigantic open fireplace and comfy mismatched couches. Safe to say I’m a sucker and sink in with a plate of Eggs Florentine and an exceptionally large coffee. With my stomach lined, I walk through the alfresco dining/garden area, thinking it’s a shame to leave so soon. But with so much to consume in the space of 24 hours, I know time is precious. Fast-forward to 12:30pm and we’re trundling down country roads bordered by vineyards, tiny townships and fields of green as far as the eye can see – in case you’re worrying, I have brought along a designated driver. Our destination? The Summertown Aristologist. After a short detour into a paddock (thanks GPS), we arrive in Summertown with a population of 300 and an uncanny likeness to the fictional village of Greendale from Postman Pat. Walking inside,

ADELAIDE HILLS PUBS

I’m greeted by a sunny haze of food, wine and chatter. Plonked around rustic wooden tables are beards and overalls aplenty, but also a gaggle of lunching ladies fresh out of their respective Mercedes. Scanning the arched halls and open-plan dining area, it’s hard to tell who’s staff and who’s a customer. I feel like I’ve just walked into a house party with a wonderfully eclectic guest list. Despite its chilled appearance, The Summertown Aristologist is run by some seriously big names who’ve left the grind of city life behind in pursuit of a culinary sea change. Co-owner and restaurant manager Aaron Fenwick hails from Jock Zonfrillo’s rock-star restaurant Orana while cellar-door superstars Anton van Klopper (Lucy Margaux Vineyards) and Jasper Button (Young Gun of Wines award-winner, Commune of Buttons) bring their expert knowledge and unique brand of magic to the cellar door. The menu consists of only the best Adelaide Hills food and drink, grown and prepared on-site by a community of passionate local foodies. The decor has been selected with an equal amount of love: crockery and glassware are handmade by local artists, light shades are by glass artist Mandi King, and furniture is sourced and ê

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4 great reasons you should visit The Uraidla Republic!

Just 25 minutes from the CBD in the picturesque Adelaide Hills

We brew our own beer onsite

Our award-winning bar is quirky & cosy

1196-1198 Greenhill Road, Uraidla 5142 Phone 08 8390 0500

www.uraidlahotel.com.au

TIGER AD.indd 1

Your weekend of indulgence starts here Boutique accommodation just 20 mins from Adelaideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CBD. Seven beautifully appointed rooms above our acclaimed restaurant and extraordinary wine collection. Situated at the gateway to the Adelaide Hills wine districts and major Hills tourist attractions. Family room, communal kitchen and laundry facilities. Weekday room specials.

We create fresh, wholesome meals

18/01/2018 8:12 AM

Open 7 days Lunch & Dinner

Full Breakfast on weekends from 8am

8 Main Street, Crafers 5152 South Australia T. +61 8 8339 2050 info@crafershotel.com.au www.crafershotel.com.au

ADELAIDE HILLS PUBS

reclaimed locally. But back to the food. Though I was saving myself for lunch later on, I couldn’t help but check out the mussels with tomato and fennel, sticky rice with pickled vegetables and carrot, chicken liver and chestnut. Wine-wise, you’ll find some of South Australia’s most unique drops from Commune of Buttons, Lucy Margaux and Summertown Friends. You won’t find any of this in your local bottle shop.

WINE AND MORE The Adelaide Hills is one of Australia’s best cool-climate wine regions. You’ll find more than 60 wineries here, just minutes from the city in lush, leafy surrounds. Wineries such as Shaw & Smith and Bird in Hand are world-renowned, pairing unbeatable sauvignon blanc and pinot noir with stunning vineyard views. The five-star Mt. Lofty Ranges Vineyard in Lenswood is a must-visit, winning countless awards for its pinot noir and shiraz. After a stern word with the GPS, we’re back on the road, headed to the Adelaide Hills’ culinary epicentre – Uraidla. Once a sleepy town boasting bountiful orchards, farmland and not much else, it’s now home to two of the Hills’ most exciting drinking and dining destinations: Lost in a Forest and the Uraidla Hotel. Our first stop is Uraidla Hotel, a market garden-inspired pub sourcing the majority of

The details O C H R E N AT I O N A N D APPLEWOOD DISTILLERY 24 Victoria Street, Gumeracha; applewooddistillery.com.au, unicozelo.com.au

CRAFERS HOTEL 8 Main Street, Crafers; crafershotel.com.au

SUMMERTOWN ARISTOLOGIST 1097 Greenhill Road, Summertown; thesummertownaristologist.com

UR AIDL A HOTEL 1198 Greenhill Road, Uraidla; uraidlahotel.com.au

LOST IN A FOREST 1203 Greenhill Road, Uraidla; lostinaforest.com.au

“The Uraidla Hotel is a market gardeninspired pub“ its food and drink from farmers, gardeners and winemakers residing in nearby Adelaide Hills towns. Hotchpotch in the best way possible, decor is a wonderful clash of old and new with massive (fast becoming #instafamous) upside-down vintage lampshades, light installations made from old windmills, barbed-wire wall hangings, exposed beams, and urinals made from old beer kegs. Taking a seat on the mismatched vinyl bar stools, I peruse the drinks and food menus. The wine list is brimming with fantastic local blends as well as big-name South Australian drops. After some intense deliberation, I settle on the Basket Range Merlot, which ê

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Handcrafted in the Adelaide Hills

Travelling to Adelaide? Love Gin? Come Visit the Distillery! Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re Open 11am - 4pm Daily. 24 Victoria St - Gumeracha www.applewooddistillery.com.au

ADELAIDE HILLS PUBS

“We pass fruit stalls, worldfamous wineries and markets in full swing“

A L ACK OF SPACE IN THE CITY HAS MEANT GASTROPUBS HAVE HEADED FOR THE HILL S

is luscious and fruity with a soft finish. The Uraidla Hotel’s menu is sophisticated pub grub with rabbit and pancetta ale pie sitting side-by-side the humble chicken schnitty. A few steps across the road and up a tree-lined driveway looms Lost in a Forest – a pizza and wine lounge set in a 130-year-old Anglican church. The concept was dreamt up by graphic designer Charlie Lawrence and Taras Ochota, South Australia’s resident punk rocker, surfer, James-Halliday-praised, multiaward-winning winemaker. After extensive restoration, it’s an imposing building, complete with stained-glass windows, intricate murals and lawn lazing area. This is a church that serves a very different kind of bread and wine, and my stomach is ready to worship. Lost in a Forest’s wood-oven pizzas are made with only the freshest local ingredients. Expect to find mouth-watering toppings like cauliflower puree, wood-roasted lemony rocket salad and caper spice pangrattato (flavour level: bonkers, according to the menu). Executive pizza chef Callan Thomas suggests the Bahn Mi Pizza. The 12-hour cider braised pork

melts in my mouth while gooey mozzarella engulfs pickled vegetables, coriander and pork crackling. To wash it down, I select the Ochota Barrels Slint Chardonnay. On the way home we pass fruit stalls perched on the side of the road, metres away from The Summertown Aristologist, now packed to the gills. The gateways to stately, world-famous wineries zoom past us and, in Stirling, the weekend market is in full swing with a maze of produce stalls competing for space with winemakers and tarot card readers. In less than 30 minutes we’re back in Adelaide’s CBD. I roll out of the car, and waddle down Peel Street’s maze of small bars. Late-night revellers who’ll soon be digging into dishes and drinks made with the very same ingredients I devoured earlier start filling bar stools, and chatter spills out onto the street. I feel grateful for how much there is to eat, see, drink and do so close to home in South Australia, and lucky to live in the land of plenty.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Adelaide from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

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The secret river Few places that are just an hour from Melbourne can claim to be undiscovered, but the Goulburn Valley and Strathbogie Ranges have the wines, produce and passion of the famous Yarra Valley without the crowds. Paul Chai tours the best Australian wine region youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never heard of.

PHOTO MITCHELTON WINERY

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CENTRAL VICTORIA

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CENTRAL VICTORIA

MITCHELTON WINEMAKER TR AVIS CLYDESDALE IN THE VINES

he sun is setting on a bucolic bend of the Goulburn River just as Mitchelton Winery comes into view of our boat, the huge concrete tower standing out from the giant gums trees surrounding it, the water so still that our small craft is slicing up the clouds reflected in front of the bow. We are on a private tour of the river hosted by Andrew Ryan, general manager of Mitchelton, and he has been pointing out the historic houses, horse studs and hidden private golf courses that lie along the banks of the Goulburn, just over an hour’s drive north of Melbourne. To me, the river is not new. My family hail from nearby Seymour, a country town I have visited on and off for over 40 years, just a few kilometres from where we are now. I have been swimming, hunted for crayfish and thrown in my very first fishing line. But here on Andrew’s boat I am not just admiring the sunset – and my glass of Preece rose – but seeing the whole area in a new light. Town names like Nagambie, Avenel and Murchison have traditionally not had much resonance beyond the local area, and the ê ê

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CENTRAL VICTORIA

tourist region, known as Central Victoria, has not had a lot of love from travellers. Part of this region’s recognition problem is a lack of simple hook. Is it a wine region, a horse-stud area, a foodie hub or a home to military and Ned Kelly history? The truth is it is all these things and more with stunning natural beauty like the Goulburn River, the Seymour Highlands and the rail trail cycling routes through Tallarook.

“Mitchelton Hotel is a $16 million dollar boutique hotel“

The hotel is decorated in a range of greys and charcoals with floor-to-ceiling windows taking advantage of the river views, and if you want to get closer you can enjoy the landscaped terrace and 20-metre infinity pool. Mitchelton Winery was purchased by the Ryans from Lion Nathan back in 2012. The current incarnation is not the Mitchelton I grew up with, a sometimes unwelcoming spot with patchy food whose imposing modernist buildings (designed by famous Melbourne architect Robin Boyd) had yet to come back into fashion. Under the Ryans Mitchelton is now a destination in itself with the hotel, a chocolaterie called the Ministry of Chocolate, cafe and friendly cellar door. The winery is home to the whimsical labels and ê

New boutique digs What the region did not have was a great base from which you could explore, and that is where Mitchelton comes in. Andrew Ryan, son of Jayco caravan magnate Gerry Ryan, has just overseen the construction of the new Mitchelton Hotel, a $16 million-dollar boutique stay with 58 rooms (and four suites) split into River and Vineyard facing options. Checking in on the first night you can see the region’s equine credentials referenced in the art in the public spaces with specially commissioned portraits of the Ryans’ horses (including Melbourne Cup winner Americain) from Melbourne photographer Trevor Mein.

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CENTRAL VICTORIA

Wine by Sam In the town of Seymour, another regional star has just opened an urban winery. Sam Plunkett’s father planted the first wines in the Strathbogie Ranges in 1968 and Sam went on to make wine at Plunkett Wines. He eventually joined forces with Fowles to form Plunkett-Fowles but when that partnership dissolved in 2011 Sam made wine for online retailer Naked Wines. Now Wine by Sam has taken over a warehouse that has been both a dyeworks and a go-kart track. One of the first urban wineries in country Victoria, Plunkett, and his wife Bronwyn Dunwoodie, have wines like The Victorian and Stardust and Muscle, the latter a play on the

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region’s shiraz, which has delicate perfume but robust flavour. Wine by Sam is fronted by a retro-chic cafe with midcentury furniture sitting on the original parquetry floors and it serves up light meals like artisan pies and local cheese plates. It is another sign that the area is “reinventing itself” according to Dunwoodie and if offers a distinctly different way to try regional tipples. “The urban winery is different from Mitchelton and Tahbilk,” she says. “We are not doing the same thing. People can come through first thing in the morning and get some fresh bread and a coffee, or come to the twilight markets here.” winebysam.com.au

THE TEAM AT WINE BY SAM, SAM PLUNKETT AND BRONWYN DUNWOODIE

bold flavours of its resuscitated Preece brand and some rich shirazes made by winemaker Travis Clydesdale. On an afternoon tour of the huge underground cellar, Travis says the winery’s position right on the river gives the wines a unique sense of place. “The water mass around Mitchelton – provided by the Goulburn River – moderates the temperature around the vineyard,” Clydesdale says. “This means we end up with wines that are more medium bodied, not as heavily weighted, and thus more elegant on the palate.” We taste a few varieties straight from the barrel, then travel to nearby Avenel for dinner at Bank Street Wood Fired Pizza and Gardens. For a wine region to really grow the local food scene has to rise up to meet it and the team at Bank Street is doing that and more. This simple pizza restaurant spills out into the titular gardens strung with fairy lights, which you can explore while you wait for your meal. Much ê

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CANBERRA

The details MITCHELTON WINES Opened in December 2017, the Mitchelton Hotel has double room rates starting at $289 per night including breakfast and a winery tour. Or visit the winery or chocolaterie if you are in town for the day. 470 Mitchellstown Road, Nagambie; mitchelton.com.au

BANK STREET WOOD FIRED PIZZA AND GARDENS Cosy surrounds and killer pizza that celebrates all the local produce of the region. 5 Bank Street, Avenel; see Facebook

TAHBILK One of Australia’s oldest wineries and specialists in the Marsanne grape variety, Tahbilk offers great cellar door experiences like blending your own wine. 254 Oneils Road, Tabilk; tahbilk.com.au

THE CENTRAL VICTORIAN WINE REGION IS WELL WORTH EXPLORING

of what you see ends up as a topping such as the wild herbs and vegetables that share pizza space with local toppings like Scott’s pork and fennel sausage from the rightly famous Avenel butcher across the road, or Michelle’s Magic Mushrooms, which teams local producer Michelle Wilkinson’s sautéed funghi with smoked scamorza, mozzarella and truffle oil. We have a nightcap and cheese under the horse portraits in the lobby of the Mitchelton Hotel and crash out for the night.

The old and new Architecture buffs will appreciate that the buildings at Mitchelton were the last work of Melbourne’s rock star architect Robin Boyd, but he died before it was finished. The completion of the project was overseen by Ted Ashton and the imposing tower is named after him. The tower casts a long shadow as I head to breakfast in Muse Restaurant that is also a regional champion under the tutelage of head chef Jess Hayes. We will end up here for dinner, but first we are heading off to neighbouring Tahbilk winery. Tahbilk and Mitchelton share the Goulburn River banks like partners in a buddy cop film: Mitchelton the young(ish) upstart and Tahbilk the old timer, having made wines here since the 1800s. The cellar door is housed in ê

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CENTRAL VICTORIA

THE REGION’S PRODUCERS ARE RISING TO MEET THE GROWING WINE INDUSTRY

“Hot on the heels of the Mitchelton Hotel, Andrew lays out his plans for a brewery at Nagambie”

a shed from 1860 and the Major Mitchell Line, the first overland stock route between Sydney Melbourne, used to wind past the front door. The go-to grape here is Marsanne, a rare variety from the Rhone region of France that makes whites that age well. Tahbilk means “place of many waterholes” and we do a tasting aboard the Tahbilk I, a small boat that plies the marshland near the winery restaurant. The surrounding wetlands are home to the winery’s Eco Trails, walking tracks that start at the Long Bridge, a wooden crossing built in 1889. After lunch on the verandah at Tahbilk overlooking where we just set sail, we return to Mitchelton to a wander around the grounds and board our sunset cruise. Andrew Ryan is a great host and he and his father are passionate about the region and are putting their money where their mouth is. Hot on the heels of the Mitchelton Hotel, Andrew lays out his plans for

a brewery at Nagambie that backs onto the lake, just a few hundred metres from a statue of the region’s famous daughter Black Caviar, the undefeated Thoroughbred racehorse. After the made-to-order sunset on the river, it’s on to Muse restaurant. The name of this restaurant reflects the attitude in the kitchen where head chef Jess Hayes lets the different Mitchelton vintages act as the inspiration (or muse) to her changing seasonal menu. We dine under vine-covered trellises on Kilmore lamb neck, sweet pea, burnt eggplant and potato croquettes and Cone Bay barramundi, fried tomato and tarragon aioli. Then, when the feast is over, I partake of one of life’s simple pleasures: walking from a topclass winery restaurant to my bed, in just under five minutes.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 11 destinations; tigerair.com.au

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Where to next? Tigerair Australia serves 13 destinations right across the country

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melbourne (tullamarine) hobart

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Picture your perfect stay

 Direct flights from Sydney, Melbourne & Brisbane

 Amazing activity & team building opportunities

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 Stunning social venues with picture perfect views Reservations: Free call 1800 075 061 | Telephone 07 4964 1340 Address: 25 Ocean View Avenue, Airlie Beach Queensland 4802 Email reservations: stay@coralsearesort.com | Website: www.coralsearesort.com

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Romance

Destination Weddings

Coral Sea Resort

Destination weddings, fine dining and activities for a first date â&#x20AC;&#x201C; love is in the air on the Tigerair network. BY CONNOR MCLEOD

Get married in an exclusive seaside enclave at Airlie Beach in the Whitsundays. The Coral Sea Resort is a perfect wedding destination with its water views, tropical gardens and the private jetty where you can have your photos taken as the sun sets. Coral Sea Resort is the full package with flexible accommodation options, caring staff and oceanfront options for the ceremony and register signing. Whitsunday Coast coralsearesort.com/weddings

Riverside Ranch You can say, or renew, your vows in utter privacy at this 50-acre riverfront property in Yamba. This old-style Queenslander home features a private in-ground pool

with a waterfall and wooden verandahs for guests to mingle while you take your photos under the huge gum trees. Coffs Harbour yambaholidayretreat.com.au

Abbey Beach Resort Have the wild beauty of Geographe Bay as the backdrop to your big day when you plan a wedding at Abbey Beach Resort in Busselton. The largest resort in the south-west of Western Australia, there are a range of options for the reception with three pools, two restaurants and three bars â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and all the rooms have romantic spa baths, so it's not just the bride and groom who get spoiled. Margaret River abbeybeach.com.au

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Proposals

Mindil Beach

Studley Park Boathouse

Poachers Pantry

From proposals on the water to romantic sunset cruises around the lake, GoBoat in Canberra has become the hottest new way to impress a date. The Danish-designed, eco-friendly boats are the perfect way to find a memorable backdrop for any romantic occasion, and gorgeous flowers or delicious bunches of chocolate-coated strawberries can be added to really give the wow factor. Canberra goboatcanberra.com.au

Sunset on Mindil Beach is the ideal time for a surprise picnic on the sand. While market nights might be a bit busy, if you time it for some of the quieter evenings you will find yourself with plenty of space for a romantic proposal. Or if a party proposal is more your style, grab some great takeaway on market night and propose over a plate of nasi goreng. Darwin mindil.com.au

This tranquil bend in the Yarra River hires out traditional wooden rowboats for couples to take a spin on the water. If you can maintain your balance, you can drop to one knee as you row past the gums and willows along the bank â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and you can even have your big day here with the Studley Park Boathouse doubling as one of the city's best riverfront wedding venues. Melbourne studleyparkboathouse.com.au

The Smokehouse Restaurant at Poachers Pantry, just on the NSW side of ACT border, is ideal if you're looking for a romantic dinner with a side order of surprise ring giving. Set inside a modern Australian farmhouse, the restaurant cures and smokes its own meats. The wines come from the vineyard, which you can see out of the huge floor-to-ceiling windows. Canberra poacherspantry.com.au

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R O M A N C E

Experiences

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Hot-air balloon ride Take a romantic hot-air balloon flight for two over the nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital that includes champagne and chocolates followed by a full breakfast at the Hyatt hotel. Whether or not there's a proposal in the air, this will be a romantic experience you'll be talking about for years. Canberra balloonaloftcanberra.com.au

Ultimate Winery Experiences Australia Go beyond the cellar door for wine experiences you can't get anywhere else. Choose from a wide range of options, from a day out at the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) in Hobart and Moorilla Estate to a Cape to Vine Day Trip, a guided walking tour of the Margaret River vineyards and coast. Various location ultimatewineryexperiences.com.au

Sydney Seaplanes Take your romance sky high with a trip on a seaplane that will fly up and over Sydneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Northern Beaches before touching down on a secluded beach, where you'll have a picnic laid out for just the two of you. Sydney seaplanes.com.au

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R O M A N C E

The Royal Botanic Garden, Sydney

IMAGE COURTESY OF THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDEN SYDNEY

THE SPOT

he Royal Botanic Garden in Sydney has hundreds of weddings every year, but it's the scale and versatility of the gardens that comes as a surprise even if you think you know the place well. There are intimate spaces like the herb garden that takes just 60 guests amongst the fragrant beds of basil, shiso and rare herbs. Have your wedding ceremony on one of the many lawns that curve around this incredible spot on Sydney Harbour with the Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge as your backdrop. Or get married in the venerable Palm House glasshouse

– first erected in 1876, it's the oldest glasshouse in New South Wales and looks incredible strung with fairy lights or decorations. For one of the most secluded and private spots in the garden try Lion Gate Lodge, a heritage-listed cottage built in 1878 as a residence for the head gardener. You can have a ceremony on the private lawn and the reception under the awning on the sandstone cobblestones, all fenced off from the public. Quirkier couples might opt for cocktails in the Succulent Garden surrounded by a vast array of cacti. Or if you want a restaurant venue,

then the incredible new Calyx building is a modern spot for a reception. Opened in June 2016, the circular building is designed to reflect a calyx – the protective layer of sepals that form around a budding flower – and is a great spot for a wedding reception, or a high tea. Other restaurants on the Botanic Gardens site include the Botanic Gardens Restaurant, set in the verdant garden surrounds, or the Pavilion Restaurant, overlooking the green lawns. For a head-spinning amount of options, contact the team at events@rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au.

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R O M A N C E

Venues

Art Gallery of South Australia Get an arty start to your nuptials by holding your ceremony inside the Art Gallery of South Australia, home to a collection of over 38,000 works of art covering Australia, Europe, Asia and North America. You can say your vows surrounded by beautiful works or art or bathed in natural light from the galleryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s atrium. Then itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cocktails or dinner either inside the gallery or outside amongst the sculptures on the gallery lawn. Adelaide artgallery.sa.gov.au

Centennial Homestead Set in the centre of Centennial Park is Centennial Homestead where couples can get married in the Wisteria Room, surrounded by wild purple wisteria. The reception can be held undercover, but huge bi-fold doors open out to the Centennial Parklands. This is one of the newest event options in the gardens and offers top-notch catering from events group Trippas White. Sydney centennialhomestead.com.au

Rippon Lea is no stranger to parties since it was built in 1868. The mansion and gardens were build for Frederick Sargood who made his money trading on the goldfields and built this elaborate mansion and expansive gardens. National Heritage listed, this venue includes an ornamental lake, orchard and fernery and would make a memorable day for any couple. Melbourne ripponleaestate.com.au

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Rippon Lea Estate

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Sydney attracts one of the world’s most spectacular line-ups of musical productions, high adrenalin sports, exciting cultural experiences and artistic collaborations.

THE LADY AND THE UNICORN

SYDNEY GAY AND LESBIAN MARDI GRAS

HANDA OPERA ON SYDNEY HARBOUR – LA BOHÈME

A once in a lifetime opportunity to see the French medieval masterpieces in Sydney.

16 February – 4 March

23 March – 22 April

The world’s loudest and proudest celebration of LGBTQI diversity.

Art Gallery of NSW, The Domain

Various locations across Sydney

Experience the romance of the original Bohemian love story on the magnificent floating harbour stage.

10 February – 24 June

Fleet Steps, Mrs Macquaries Point

SYDNEY ROYAL EASTER SHOW 23 March – 3 April Australia’s biggest annual event showcasing country life and family entertainment. Sydney Olympic Park

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEKEND EDITION 18 –19 May You are invited to see the highlights of Australia’s best designers showcasing their Resort 19 Collections.

VIVID SYDNEY 25 May – 16 June Sydney becomes a creative canvas of light, music and ideas. Various locations across Sydney

Carriageworks, Sydney

If it’s on in Sydney, it’s on sydney.com Please note that events are subject to change or cancellation (check relevant website for further details prior to the event). Destination NSW acknowledges and appreciates all photographic images supplied by each event owner for use in this advertisement. Image credit: Taste c1500, from the The lady and the unicorn series wool and silk, 377 x 466 cm Musée de Cluny – Musée national du Moyen Âge, Paris Photo © RMN-GP / M Urtado.