Tigertales April - May 2018

tigertales tiger

TAKE ME AWAY

Australia | April – May 2018

THE ITALIAN JOB

➔ Can chef Guy Grossi help bring a new generation to Melbourne’s old-school Italian clubs?

STREETS OF YOUR TOWN

W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S

WHITE NIGHTS

Music heritage walking tours in our capitals

Two different travellers take on the Whitsunday Coast

A snow-camping escape on Victoria’s Mount Stirling

Luxur y has arrived on the Whitsunday Coast...

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WELCOME ON BOARD

Welcome onboard And thank you for choosing to fly Tigerair today

T

he Tigerair brand is all about value, choice and innovation.

We continue to introduce a number of new products and innovations to make booking and flying Tigerair better than ever.

Onboard this month is our new winter menu, packed full of variety and flavours to suit every taste and budget. Our inflight menu features the continuation of popular yearround favourites like the all-day bacon and egg roll, savoury pack, fancy chicken sanga, popcorn chicken and chips, and the posh ham and cheese toastie.

New menu items include the hot mac and cheese bake for savoury fans, the sweet cinnabun snack to curb hunger pangs, and featuring the introduction of an espresso martini in the beverages section.

As always, our menu caters for a broad range of dietary preferences such as vegetarian, nut-free, gluten-free and halal meals.

Don’t forget you can pre-order (at the time of booking) an extended range of menu items like our Thai-grr green curry and butter chicken meals, in doing so making sure you’re served onboard first.

We have also recently introduced new state-of-the-art slimline leather seats onboard our fleet of Boeing 737 aircraft providing an enhanced customer experience with adjustable

“New menu items include the hot mac and cheese bake for savoury fans, the sweet cinnabun snack to curb hunger pangs, and the introduction of an espresso martini” headrests, additional storage pockets and built-in tablet/phone holders on the back of the seat.

Our recently announced IFE content partnership with Twentieth Century Fox means customers will soon be able to access a broad range of recent release movie and

TV titles on their own personal devices across Tigerair’s entire fleet.

As always there are many more product enhancements in the pipeline, which we will announce in due course.

Happy travels!

From the team at Tigerair Australia

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CONTENTS

Destination directory Inside this issue… wherever you’re going, we’ve got you covered WEEKEND WARRIORS

DESTINATION WHITSUNDAYS

DE S T IN AT ION W HI T S UND AY S

THE POINTY END

S H A R ON

takes her camera on a scenic journey around the Whitsundays.

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION, TWO DIFFERENT ADVENTURES PHOTOGRAPHY VS FISHING

JUL I A N

See Groovin the Moo in Townsville

G WORDS PAUL CHAI

White nights

roovin the Moo (GTM) has proved a hugely popular festival thanks to the fact it takes world-class musicians on a three-weekend road trip to some of the regions that don’t get the same live-music love as the big cities.

Starting off in Gloucester and Narrandera in New South Wales back in 2005, the GTM family now takes in Wayville in South Australia, Maitland in New South Wales, Canberra, Bendigo in Victoria and Bunbury in Western Australia.

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embarks on a fishing expedition, taking in the rock walls, river, dam, Whitsunday islands and Great Barrier Reef.

Groovin the Moo

But the tropical edition of the festival in the North Queensland city of Townsville holds a special spot in the team’s heart.

“The site itself is on a cricket field so it’s a nice, lush, green field, and it’s a really open site. At night it becomes quite pleasant because it’s still pretty warm in Townsville in early May but the dry season has started to kick in so it’s not so humid,” says Cattleyard promoter Steve Halpin. “The festival is unique because we take a bunch of bands that don’t normally travel to North Queensland and ê

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27

Camping in The Man from Snowy River country with two young boys is a more challenging take on the annual snow trip. But, with a bumper snowfall and new-found fun, Paul Chai watches his kids fall hard for the white stuff.

PHOTO MOUNT BULLER

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W E L C O M E O N B O A R D

THE POINTY END

Whitsundays

Mount Stirling

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WORDS DEBORAH DICKSON-SMITH

s n o w c a m p in g adventure

WORDS MOSHE ROSENZVEIG; PHOTO ©MARK PIOVESAN, HEAD ON LANDSCAPE PRIZE 2015

ENCOUNTER

F E AT U R E

better pics

Take better travel photographs

T

he Head On Photo Festival hits Sydney in May with venues all over the city celebrating the art of photography. With photos so much a part of travel these days, and all of us armed with some serious photo firepower on our smartphones, we are all trying to take better pics. The Head On Photo Awards have a $60,000 prize pool and one of the key awards is the landscape prize.

Sydney

Festival founder and artistic director Moshe Rosenzveig has just finished judging the winners for 2018. He shares with us some of the best landscape photos from past festivals, and he has some tips for budding photographers: “How do we make sure our images stand out and remain memorable in a sea of images we are all exposed to, so other people can see the ê

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THE POINTY END

13

ITALIAN CLUB REVIVAL

Keep the ball rolling

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WORDS XXXX PHOTOS XXXXX

52

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Melbourne

37 53

Advertising National Advertising Manager Stephanie Kavanagh (02) 8188 3668 stephanie@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestar Web

Cover photo Guy Grossi, photographed by Samara Clifford

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Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au

meddle with after his death); but it also messes with our visual perception to such a degree that it’s like a mob of Pamplona bulls running rampant through the pathways of the brain.

Take its centrepiece, ”Unseen Seen” – one of four commissioned installations by American artist James Turrell. Lying down inside this futuristic white dome, we’re confronted with such trippy kaleidoscopes of shapes and colours that we almost seem to be hallucinating. Even if we’ve ê

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italian clubs

or into an Uber and head to what people are now calling the best kept secret in town, the Furlan Club boccedrome. Bocce is similar to bowls, but there’s no bias on the balls, which is just as well because unlike bowls you can throw these hefty balls in the air, and today’s newbies are launching their balls in all directions, only occasionally in the vicinity of the jack.

Sharing the space with them are dozen’s of elderly Alpini, Italy’s elite mountain infantry force, all sporting the capello alpino – traditional alpine army headwear, a raffish hat topped off with an elegant black feather.

As well as the bocce courts there’s also a soccer field, an enormous ballroom and a well-stocked bar across which beer and pizza is served to the unsporty patrons. There are retro foosball tables adorned with ashtrays, photos of happy events going back decades: soccer teams, netball teams, dinner and dance nights, New Year’s Eve celebrations, Miss Friuli pageants, even the bocce world championships. ê

Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Designer Cynthia Lau Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott

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ll art is subjective, but none so much as that in Pharos, the new wing of Hobart’s Museum of Old and New Art (MONA).

MONA has always loved to bamboozle, provoke and envelop in its labyrinth, but Pharos – though attached by tunnels to the larger museum – is almost a discrete entity.

For a start, it’s permanent and built around the art works (MONA owner David Walsh has joked about it being the wing that curators couldn’t

F E AT U R E

PHOTOS SAMARA CLIFFORD

I

t’s the fireplace where the magic happens. The magic of warmth and the magic of connection.

You can sail across oceans, leave everything you know behind, but the hearth – the fogolar - brings you home.

In an anonymous corner of Thornbury, Melbourne, away from the cafes, record stores and craft beer bars of High Street, wedged between a semi-industrial block and a high school stands the Fogolar Furlan Club (Furlan Club for short), an Italian Club with one hell of a story. Last year the club celebrated its 60th anniversary. A lot of unforgettable moments have gone down here, but today something particularly memorable is taking place: the club is hosting the world’s worst game of bocce.

Dubbed a “sports carnival for the unsporty,” the promise of bocce, beer and pizza has enticed dozens of young, inner-city dwellers to jump on their bikes

WORDS JENNY VALENTISH PHOTOS MOORILLA GALLERY

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Can a new generation of bocce lovers save Melbourne’s old-school Italian clubs from fading into obscurity? Celebrity chef Guy Grossi hopes so. He tells Ricky French about the importance of these clubs in preserving his country’s culture.

Visit the new wing of MONA in Hobart

A

Check out Mona's new wing

© 2018 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder.

Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

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THE POINTY END aphs ê Explore Mon r g a's oto ne h p w l e w v a ing r t

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THE POINTY END

T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O

MU S IC

S P OR T

G R O OV I N T H E M O O A killer line-up will be touring as part of the 2018 Groovin the Moo festival (see page 27). Get heavy with the Amity Affliction, dance with Flight Facilities or get into a singalong with Paul Kelly – plus Australian Music Prize winner Sampa the Great.

Across Australia, from April 27; gtm.net.au

S O U T H AD E L A I D E J O C K E Y C LU B The Ubet Adelaide Festival of Racing kicks off on May 5 with events like Oaks Day and Derby Day at Morphettville Racecourse.

The South Australian Jockey Club is South Australia’s largest racing club, playing host to 58 days of racing a year.

Adelaide, May 5-19; morphettville.com.au

B LU E S O N B R OAD B E AC H F E S T I VAL With over 60 artists on the bill, the 17th instalment of Blues on Broadbeach with headliners the Robert Cray Band is set to pull huge crowds on the streets of the Gold Coast. There are 20 performance spaces and all the locals bars are in on the show.

Gold Coast, May 17-20; bluesonbroadbeach.com

HO T E L S TFE HOTELS TFE Hotels, which includes Vibe, is offering a Book Direct deal where guests receive a complimentary upgrade to the next available room type if you book direct with the hotel.

TFE Hotels has properties all across Australia, from Darwin to Marysville.

Across Australia, until July 30; tfehotels.com

C OME D Y AB O R I G I-L O L Returning to MICF are Indigenous comedy duo Dane Simpson and Matt Ford, who’ve been touring the country for the past two years. The pair are accomplished comics with Matt in demand on the Brisbane circuit and Dane a finalist in Deadly Funny.

From April 10; comedyfestival.com.au

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AU S T R AL I A N R U N N I N G F E S T I VAL Conquer the nation’s capital at the Canberra Marathon, part of the Australian running festival (check out our ‘runcation’ story page 49). There are runs for all levels on day one and the half, full and ultra marathons take place the following day.

Canberra, April 14-15; runningfestival.com.au

HA N NAH C A M I LLE R I Melbourne International Comedy Festival (MICF) has the debut of former RAW state finalist Hannah Camilleri, called Big Shot.

Hannah’s character-based comedy pokes fun at society’s “self-assured top dogs” and changes based on the audience’s reaction.

From April 9; comedyfestival.com.au

H O T E L R AV E S I S Bondi Beach’s Hotel Ravesis has been redesigned with the 12 ocean view rooms restyled by interior designer Carina Hicks. The hotel has even been making its own gin with local distiller Archie Rose, so make sure you check out the mini-bar.

To celebrate, the hotel is offering prizes as well.

Sydney; hotelravesis.com

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WORDS MOSHE ROSENZVEIG; PHOTO ©MARK PIOVESAN, HEAD ON LANDSCAPE PRIZE 2015

THE POINTY END

Take better travel photographs

T

he Head On Photo Festival hits Sydney in May with venues all over the city celebrating the art of photography. With photos so much a part of travel these days, and all of us armed with some serious photo firepower on our smartphones, we are all trying to take better pics. The Head On Photo Awards have a $60,000 prize pool and one of the key awards is the landscape prize.

Festival founder and artistic director Moshe Rosenzveig has just finished judging the winners for 2018. He shares with us some of the best landscape photos from past festivals, and he has some tips for budding photographers: “How do we make sure our images stand out and remain memorable in a sea of images we are all exposed to, so other people can see the ê

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THE POINTY END wonderful places we have been visiting?

There are plenty of rules (if you like rules), but the only rule to follow closely is to make sure your pictures speak to you (metaphorically); this will ensure other people can connect to them as well.

Getting a good landscape photo relies on you being in a place that affects you emotionally and for you to capture its essence in one picture.

There are, however, a few technical tips to help your image look its best:

Light This is the main component that sets the mood in the picture. Is your picture dark? Is it light? Is it lit by the sun behind you or in front of you? Is it shady?

Space

PHOTO ŠPETER EASTWAY, HEAD ON L ANDSCAPE PRIZE 2016

Landscape pictures often depict very wide spaces. How do you show the scale of the scenery? The best way is to include smaller objects like people in the foreground to help the viewer understand the scale.

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PHOTO ©JAN BRECKWOLDT, HEAD ON LANDSCAPE PRIZE 2017

See things differently “This winning image is of a recycling glass factory located in a remote part of Israel. The image is quite ordinary until you read the title and realise that the rolling green hills in the picture are not a huge mountain range covered by foliage. The picture not only fools us to believe that these huge mountains are just small piles of glass, but it also pushes the boundaries of the definition of what ‘landscape’ is and how we perceive the environment around us.”

PHOTO ©ODED BALILT Y, HEAD ON L ANDSCAPE PRIZE 2017

Composition

MOSHE SAYS YOU SHOULD PL AY WITH DIFFERENT LINES WITHIN THE PICTURE

PHOTO ©MILTON GAN, HEAD ON LANDSCAPE PRIZE 2016

PHOTO ©ABIGAIL VARNEY, HEAD ON L ANDSCAPE PRIZE 2015

“Create foreground and background by including branches or people close to the camera“

Composing an interesting picture may take time and training. However, there are some basic rules.

You should look for a pleasing balance of the different elements in the frame. It is usually easier to look at an image that has a centre of interest the viewer can concentrate on, such as a lone tree in the middle of a field.

Play with the horizon line. Create foreground and background by including branches or people close to the camera.

Play with the different lines within the picture, such as horizontal or diagonal lines created by mountain slopes, river bank, trees or power lines.

Make sure you don’t crop objects like mountains in the middle. If you have to, because your image is too wide, find the right spot to crop. ê

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PHOTO ©PAMELA PAULINE, HEAD ON LANDSCAPE PRIZE 2016

THE POINTY END

See the Head On Festival

“We take pictures to remind us of places we like and moments in life“ Memories We take pictures to remind us of places we like and moments in life. However, unless the only reason for taking these pics is to show them to your grandma, try to avoid including yourself in every picture you take on your travels.

PHOTOS OF OTHER PEOPLE ARE OFTEN MORE INTERESTING THAN A SELFIE

PHOTO ©DAVID JACOBS, HEAD ON LANDSCAPE PRIZE 2017

World-renowned photography Festival, Head On Photo Festival, returns to venues across Sydney in May 2018.

Running from May 5-20, 2018, Head On Photo Festival is one of the world’s largest and most prestigious photo festivals.

For more information visit headon.com.au

Sunsets are beautiful when you see them in real life but tend to get very boring when photographed. Try to avoid these as much as possible.

If you want the picture to look different, avoid taking pictures from the same angle as anybody else. Find new and different angles to capture an image – try it from above, below, in between objects, etc.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Sydney from eight destinations; tigerair.com.au

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PHOTO ©ROHAN KELLY, HEAD ON L ANDSCAPE PRIZE 2016

Avoid cliches

THE POINTY END

Why I live in

mel bour ne Jeremy Sonnenberg from band City Calm Down tells us why he loves Melbourne.

Tell us about your new album?

It’s representative of many, many hours of writing and experimenting both at home and then away as a group, out of the city, where we all seem to work and create best. It’s also testament to the magic powers of Malcolm Besley, our producer.

What makes Melbourne great?

Melbourne is the only place I’ve ever really wanted to call home. Alcohol isn’t cheap, but we have some pretty amazing venues for sipping – people know and care a lot about beer, wine and spirits.

Our roasters and baristas definitely combine to pour up some of the best coffees I’ve had anywhere in the world.

No one was lying when they said that the food in Melbourne is truly world-class.

Getting around M-town is also pretty breezy: it’s pretty dang flat, so you can ride everywhere, or if you’re PT-inclined the trams, trains and buses will usually get you where you want to be in a semi-respectable timeframe.

Where is your favourite bar?

For a local venture, I’ll walk up the road to Joe’s Shoe Store (233 High Street, Northcote; joes-shoe-store.business.site).

Nice rotating beers on tap, they play some great records, and you can sit outside or people watch in the window.

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For a pub session, it’s hard to go past The Great Northern in Carlton North (644 Rathdowne Street; gnh.net.au), as they have a huge range of taps that always seem to be enjoyable. If it’s time for a wine (staying in Carlton North) I’m always keen to venture into Gerald’s Bar (386 Rathdowne Street; geraldsbar.com.au): – big vibe on the interior, great staff, and the wines are very nice.

What is your favourite spot for a gig?

Since I can remember my favourite place to see a band / act in Melbourne has always been The Forum (Flinders Street & Russell Street, Melbourne; forummelbourne.com.au). The ambience and vibe in that cavernous space above the standing room at the front of the venue is impossible to beat. The booths are great if you’ve got a good crew with you and want a place to rest your drink and be equal parts social and comfortable. The sound always seems to be impeccable.

Everything inside the venue is simply stunning. Just remember to look up!

And a late-night venue post gig?

If you’re keen to keep the fire burning

after a show, there are usually a few options that aren’t our casino. Places like The Toff in Town (252 Swanston Street; thetoffintown.com) allow you to indulge in a nice drink and have a boogie or lurk in one of the booths and talk trash with your friends till all-hours. If it’s feeling more like club hour you could either head to Hugs & Kisses or New Guernica for some darker, louder, exponentially worse hangoverinducing good times.

Tell us something only a local would know.

Myki is confusing for everyone. No true Melburnian would claim we have “good” beaches. We like to use our parks like our backyards. Uber works from the airport.

“Four Seasons in One Day” was written about Melbourne. Did I mention that we all like to eat good and drink good?

C AT C H C I T Y C A L M D O W N The band is touring the new album in June where you can catch them at the Forum (June 15) and around the country. Their second album Echoes In Blue is out April 6 via label I OH YOU; citycalmdown.com

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THE POINTY END

Have a midweek adventure in the Yarra Ranges

WORDS PAUL CHAI

M

elbourne’s Yarra Ranges, just over an hour’s drive from the city, are the perfect weekend getaway. How do I know?

The snaking traffic jam on a Friday afternoon as thousands of Melburnians head for the hills.

But if you can steal a few days off during the week you will be rewarded with a quieter, more enjoyable break. You can have a tree-lined English garden all to yourself, you can appreciate the wellcurated alt-rock soundtrack in a restaurant that was previously drowned out by chatter, or taste gin at a cellar door that is packed on weekends. It’s not zombie-apocalypse quiet – places are buzzy and service is warm and friendly. Still, it feels like a VIP tour of this popular region, just without the lanyard.

My first stop is for a caffeine hit at the popular Nancy’s of the Valley, a retro-styled cafe with a locals-first produce policy that sees your

sustainable Silva coffee teamed with Tyrone’s raw milk. The coffee grinds will end up distributed to local gardens.

I’m meeting Andrew Swan of Yarra Valley Cycles, who’s about to introduce me to my new favourite thing: an e-bike with a small electric motor to help propel me up the hills. “One of the best things about the Yarra Valley is the diversity of terrain,” he tells me. “One minute you can be in beautiful open grassland and grazing country with a backdrop that looks like a Hans Heysen painting. The next minute you’re in towering gum trees and mountain ash, and then you’re in California redwoods.”

To prove just that, Andrew takes me along the local rail trail, which we have all to ourselves on a Wednesday aside from one local driving a horse and dray. Then we hit the Warburton River Walk, a quiet bend in the Yarra River where ê

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HAVE THE FORESTS AND VALLEYS TO YOURSELF DURING THE WEEK Andrew spies a platypus ducking for cover as we cycle past. After a quick lunch at Three Sugars in Warburton – which has a colourful mural of the area’s bike trails – we head to the O’Shannassy Aqueduct Trail. The bike trail makes use of the old service path that runs alongside the aqueduct, now disused, that once carried water from the O’Shannassy Weir to Melbourne’s Silvan Reservoir. The trail runs for 50 kilometres and sits over 300 metres above the forest floor with sweeping views of the valley. Even with the help of a motor, we have earned a cold beer that we have at the Home Hotel in Launching Place, where logs were launched into the Yarra to be carried upstream to the mill.

I leave Andrew and make my own way to Four Pillars Gin, the Yarra Valley’s awardwinning distillery whose cellar door is a bun fight on weekends. Today I stroll straight in and manager Kirsty Gorman pulls up a seat to show me the recently released barrel-aged gins: the Chardonnay Barrel Gin and the Sherry Cask Gin, mellow sipping gins.

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THE POINTY END

Kirsty says midweek visitors to Four Pillars definitely get more attention. Staff are able to spend more time explaining the various tastings, and she sends me on my way with a Modern Australian Gin and Tonic, a collab with Qantas and Rockpool featuring Indigenous ingredients like quandong with an Asian twist of Szechuan peppers adding bite.

My next stop is Yarra Valley Dairy, another heaving weekend spot that is quieter, but far from empty, on my visit. It’s a quick stop as I’m almost late for dinner, but I grab the signature Persian Feta.

My stay for the night is The Farmhouse at Meletos, a 23-room boutique guesthouse, where I’m welcomed by a huge slate fireplace decorated with baskets full of Granny Smith apples – a nod to the accompanying orchard and cider-making business. My room has an orchard view and rustic country flourishes, where I change and head down for dinner.

I score a window seat in a room that’s probably half full, and have a view out to the planter boxes and vineyard. My last visit was on a Saturday and while the food was just as good, it was a far more chaotic visit. I enjoy my squid ink linguini while listening to the Rubens and the xx, and then sleep like a baby (who has been on a 37-kilometre bike ride).

After breakfast, I drive to Cloudehill Gardens in Olinda, 10 acres of English-style garden with a Diggers Club run by Paul Mottershead.

Paul takes me on a tour of the grounds, which we have to ourselves, and says midweek is a great time to head up for a class or get some in-depth advice for your garden.

The details N A N C Y ’ S O F T H E VA L L E Y

YA R R A VA L L E Y D A IR Y

3/2460 Warburton Highway, Yarra Junction; facebook.com/ NancysoftheValleyYarraJunction

70-80 Mcmeikans Road, Yering; yvd.com.au

YA R R A VA L L E Y C Y C L E S 108 Main Street, Lilydale; yarravalleycycles.com

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MELETOS 12 St Huberts Road, Coldstream; meletos.com

C L O U D E HIL L G A R D E N S

3389 Warburton Highway, Warburton

89 Olinda-Monbulk Road, Olinda; cloudehill.com.au

THE HOME HOTEL

O L IN D A T E A H O U S E

2170 Warburton Highway, Launching Place; thehomehotel.net.au

86A Olinda-Monbulk Road, Olinda; olindateahouse.com.au

F O U R P IL L A R S G IN

P R O S P E R P IN A B A K E H O U S E

2A Old Lilydale Road, Healesville; fourpillarsgin.com.au

361 Mount Dandenong Tourist Road, Sassafras

THE FARMHOUSE AT MELETOS MAKES FOR A GREAT BASE TO EXPLORE

“I believe the purpose of a baker is to extract the fullest potential of flavour from the grain”

Across the road is the Olinda Tea House that attracts a local crowd mid-week for its new Chinese menu. Tea in the mountains can conjure up chintz and chocolate cake but Tony Qian puts a modern Chinese twist on things. Wake up your palate with plumflavoured cherry tomatoes and edible flowers from the garden or rich and sticky kung pao prawns. Like spice? The Chinese-language menu has some extra kick, so ask your waiter.

My last stop is the Proserpina Bakehouse, down the hill in Sassafras. Inside a former nursery, this bakery and community garden is run by Gary Cooper and Carolyn Deutsher, partners who have previously worked in fine diners in the region.

This is a destination cafe with lines of cyclists outside before it opens. Its heart is the on-site milling and breadmaking. “I believe the purpose of a baker is to extract the fullest potential of flavour and nutrition from the grain,” says baker, James. “I think the flour that you buy does not let me fulfil that purpose; roller mill flour strips the majority of flavour and nutrition, leaving empty calories.”

I get a baking lesson from James, scratched into the flour-covered top of his work bench. He explains to me how, in his stone-milled flour, the germ of the wheat is where the action is, releasing enzymes into the endosperm, converting those starches into sugars, which produces better colour, flavours and texture. This is seen in the breads, tarts, sandwiches and pastries at Proserpina Bakehouse – the one place I visit that still has a queue out the door even on my midweek trip. Join the queue though – you won’t regret it.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 10 destinations; tigerair.com.au

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23

THE POINTY END

STRAIGHT TO THE POOL ROOM FIND ALL THE KITSCH AND QUIRKY THINGS IN...

Melbourne

It’s well-documented that Aussies love their Big Things.

There are coffee table books full of giant fruit, seafood and farm animals – but a Big Bushranger is a little more uncommon.

There are two Big Neds in Australia. One fronts a pub in Queensland. The other, pictured here, is in Glenrowan, Victoria where, in 1880, the Kelly Gang had their famous Last Stand, shooting it out with police in their famous metal armour.

Big Ned isn’t the only kitsch thing here. The Ned Kelly’s Last Stand Animated Theatre is a whacky look at this slice of Aussie history where ghostly projected faces, sinister cloaked narrators and obnoxiously loud special effects recreate the finals days of the Kelly Gang in offbeat fashion.

You can also stand on the exact spot where the shootout took place. The site has statues to give you a feel for where everyone was standing. Let’s just say Glenrowan is very devoted to giving you lots of ways to experience the town’s only real event of any historical note. A must-visit for fans of Kelly lore and the kitschier side of tourism, Glenrowan is a two-and-a-halfhour drive north of Melbourne. glenrowantouristcentre.com.au

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WORDS PAUL CHAI IMAGES TRENT VAN DER JAGT

1 Big Ned

2

2 Ned Kelly Stubbie Holder Love to have a beer with Ned? That can be arranged. $8.99, Souvenirs on Swanston; 147 Swanston Street, Melbourne

3 Fridge magnets

3

4

Melbourne Icons Magnet $9, Melbournalia; melbournalia.com Crystal Magnet – Melbourne $3.99, Souvenirs on Swanston; 147 Swanston Street, Melbourne Resin Thong Magnet $4.95, Melbourne Souvenirs; 224 Swanston Street, Melbourne

4 Round plate Melbourne's main attractions, from the Little Penguins on Phillip Island to the famous Brighton Beach changing sheds get the hanging plate treatment. $12.99, Aussie Map Souvenirs; 63 Swanston Street, Melbourne

5 City Circle tram pencil One for the kids starring a historic tram from the City Circle line. $3.99, Souvenirs on Swanston; 147 Swanston Street, Melbourne

5

6

6 Great Ocean Road snow globe Watch it snow on the 12 Apostles. $19.95, Melbourne Souvenirs; 224 Swanston Street, Melbourne

7 Illustrated tea towel Old Green Rattler Tram Tea Towel is a classier take on kitsch. $28, Melbournalia; melbournalia.com

GOT SOME KITSCH KIT?

7

We are looking to celebrate the odd and the offbeat when it comes to souvenirs. Send us any hot kitsch tips to tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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25

Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with Ă la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 35 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne.

Enjoy an authentic Japanese dining experience.

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KENZAN.COM.AU | +61 (0)3 9654 8933 56 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE

THE POINTY END

See Groovin the Moo in Townsville

WORDS PAUL CHAI

G

roovin the Moo (GTM) has proved a hugely popular festival thanks to the fact it takes world-class musicians on a three-weekend road trip to some of the regions that don’t get the same live-music love as the big cities.

Starting off in Gloucester and Narrandera in New South Wales back in 2005, the GTM family now takes in Wayville in South Australia, Maitland in New South Wales, Canberra, Bendigo in Victoria and Bunbury in Western Australia.

But the tropical edition of the festival in the North Queensland city of Townsville holds a special spot in the team’s heart.

“The site itself is on a cricket field so it’s a nice, lush, green field, and it’s a really open site. At night it becomes quite pleasant because it’s still pretty warm in Townsville in early May but the dry season has started to kick in so it’s not so humid,” says Cattleyard promoter Steve Halpin. “The festival is unique because we take a bunch of bands that don’t normally travel to North Queensland and ê

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27

Steve’s things to do post-GTM

THE POINTY END

Here’s where you might find the GTM crew when the gig is done

SEE MAGNETIC ISL AND “Magnetic Island is the big selling point in Townsville – the bands all love it. It’s only half an hour on the ferry, it’s really peaceful and they can hire a moped and drive around the island.” magneticislandtourism.com

THE STRAND “Anywhere along The Strand are some great bars like Cactus Jack’s and there’s a really nice pub called the Seaview Hotel that is an old Queenslander pub. That’s a great place to hang out.” cactusjacks.com.au; seaviewhotel.com.au

CLIMB CASTLE HILL “The view up there is quite spectacular.”

CHECK OUT GROOVIN THE MOO The dates for GTM are April 27 for Wayville, SA; April 28 for Maitland, NSW; April 29 for Canberra, ACT; May 5 for Bendigo, VIC; May 6 for Townsville, QLD and May 12 for Bunbury, WA. For more information visit gtm.net.au

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GROOVIN THE MOO BRINGS MUSIC TO REGIONS THAT OFTEN MISS OUT ON GIGS

these remote areas, and that is the gist of GTM and what makes it special – for both the audience and the artists, because the artists really love going up there because of the tropical vibes.”

Townsville also marks the halfway mark for the GTM road trip, so the bands and staff get to have a bit of a break. Many of the overseas acts have travelled a long way and they are also doing city sideshows, so hitting the beach in Townsville is pretty appealing.

This year’s line-up includes locals Alex Lahey, Baker Boy, Paul Kelly and Grinspoon, while you’ll also get to see international acts like Royal Blood and Portugal. The Man. Steve says there’s a really great vibe to the Townsville festival too, because the crowd is grateful to see some amazing bands without having to schlep to the nearest capital of Brisbane, which is a pretty decent 15-hour drive away.

“Townsville are genuinely excited and the bands sense that,” Steve says. “When we are talking to them at the end of the tour they always mention that Townsville is their favourite show for so many reasons – like the climate, the location and the audience being so excited. That is what makes Townsville unique in the GTM tour.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Townsville from Melbourne and Brisbane; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

GIVING BLANDNESS THE BOOT Australia’s Italian food is going back to its roots of simple food done well

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

E

ver since the first wave of Italian immigrants reached Australia’s shores in the 1950s, Italian food has been one our most-loved cuisines.

These early immigrants shaped entire areas of our cities, with Melbourne’s Lygon Street and Sydney’s Norton Street famous for their rows of Italian restaurants, delighting Australian diners with food that was a world away from the meat and three veg they were used to.

But since that time, dining in Australia has evolved dramatically as

the European migration wave gave way to the Asian migration wave.

Dumplings from China, pho from Vietnam, and curries from India became staples of the Australian dining scene. Meanwhile, as Australian tastes developed, Italian food continued to be more or less the same it had always been – spaghetti, pizza, and tiramisu. As anyone who has eaten their way through Italy can attest, factors that characterise great Italian food, perhaps more than any others, is the focus on simplicity and on

THE FEAST 1 0F 2

quality ingredients. It’s about using the best produce possible and letting the characteristics of that produce shine.

In Italy today, there are chefs who are creating some of the most exciting food in the world. Bottura’s three-Michelinstarred Modena restaurant Osteria Francescana was in 2016 voted the best restaurant in the world at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. It sees Italian food being prepared unlike it ever has been before. Meanwhile, at ê

THE HIS T OR Y OF ITA LIA N MIGR A NT S Italians in Australia go back as far as a crew member on Captain Cook’s initial voyage, but it was it was after World War II that migration from Italy really took off – particularly from the southern regions of Sicily and Calabria.

For more on the history of Italian migrants in Melbourne, check out our feature “Keeping the ball rolling” (page 52) about the city’s old-school Italian clubs.

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31

THE POINTY END Rome’s Supplizio, Arcangelo Dandini is putting bold and contemporary twists on traditional Roman street food. And this fact has not gone unnoticed in Australia.

In the 2000s, a number of new Italian immigrants and the descendants of the first wave of immigrants decided it was time to turn Italian food in Australia back into something that resembled the best in Italy. In 2008, Johnny Di Francesco opened the original 400 Gradi in Melbourne’s Brunswick and introduced locals to real Neapolitan pizza. And in 2014, his margherita won best pizza at the World Pizza Championships in Parma, Italy.

The Australian dining seen has always seen local chefs, on return from work and travel abroad, introducing all kinds of influences into their foods. Those who have had a taste of what’s happening in Italy have realised that it’s time for Italian food in Australia to step up. Once again, Italian food is arguably among the most exciting cuisines in Australia. Here’s where to find the best...

Tipo 00 (Melbourne, VIC) Named after the fine Italian flour that’s used to create pasta, Tipo 00 is a restaurant that’s all about pasta. Chef Andreas Papadakis applied what he learned from working in fine-dining restaurants and, along with head chef Alberto Fava, has created simple, flavoursome dishes that allow the quality produce to shine. Try the asparagus and sage tortellini with Parmesan sauce, or the saffron tagliolini with spanner crab, baby zucchini, garlic and chilli.

Also worth checking out is the equally fantastic Osteria Ilaria next door. It’s owned by the same people as Tipo 00 and has a focus on food that’s not pasta, along with a killer drinks list.

Lulu La Delizia (Subiaco, WA) After several years cooking at Lalla Rookh, chef Joel Valvasori-Pereza has built a reputation as one of Western

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THE FEAST 2 0F 2

"ONCE AGAIN ITALIAN FOOD IS ARGUABLY AMONG THE MOST EXCITING CUISINES IN AUSTRALIA" Australia’s best. In late 2017, he struck out on his own and opened Lulu La Delizia. Valvasori-Pereza’s food is influenced by his Northern Italian heritage and what he does best is on full display here.

This small eatery and wine bar focuses on premium fresh pasta and is inspired by Italy’s Friuli region (where his grandmother grew up) and the Venetian spice route. The pasta here has been described by many as the best in Australia – and for good reason. It’s the kind of pasta that makes you realise you never knew pasta could be this good.

Try the tagliatelle della delizia, with a veal, pork, vegetable and red wine ragu.

Vini (Surry Hills, NSW) Vini has been around since 2006 and was one of the early propagators of the new way of thinking about Italian food in Australia. The menu at Vini changes daily to make use of seasonal produce and to demonstrate the variety in Italy’s regions. It’s all about freshness and seasonality here. The menu, which is written on a large board, can change throughout the day. One day you might be eating your way through Emilia-Romagna, and the next it might be Sicily. Whatever and wherever it is, the one thing you can be assured of is deliciousness.

The wines are exclusively Italian, and there’s a great grappa selection too.

Templo (Hobart, TAS) Templo isn’t an Italian restaurant as such, but its menu has a clear Italian feel about it, influenced in part by part owner and head chef Matt Breen’s time spent working at Tipo 00. The restaurant is small, with only 20 seats, and focuses on high-quality, produce-driven food, and unique drinks.

On any given day the menu features around 10 items that change depending on what’s fresh and good on the day.

Generally speaking there’s a gnochetti on the menu and this has unintentionally become Templo’s de facto signature dish. Light, fluffy, creamy pillows of goodness are paired with flavours of the season like pork sausage, broccolini and chilli, and nettle and broccoli.

Bucci (Fortitude Valley, QLD) Bucci, like the other restaurants mentioned here, has a focus on fresh, local produce, and dishes that let the quality of the produce take the lead.

Head chef and co-owner Shaun Malone has worked in Brisbane, Melbourne and London and his menu is influenced by rustic Italian regional recipes that are elevated with contemporary twists.

The lasagne is served open with braised wagyu beef shin, truffled mascarpone and baby spinach, while the dense, yet light, arancini contain flavours that change with the seasons.

THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture online magazine The City Lane, and he is one third of the craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective.

Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.

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THE PACK

T HE P L AY L I S T

THE POINTY END

Pack these on your next trip away

1

STUFF TO BUY BEFORE YOU GO 2

Ü 1 ZESTI BISCOTTI Handmade in Nelson, New Zealand, they are twice baked the authentic Italian way and contain no preservatives, added colours or fat. from $7.95; rawmaterials.com.au

1 TY

A WORK OF HEART Ty returns with his first album in eight years and it’s both as breezy and broad-shouldered as ever, the Mercury-nominated British rapper retaining his happy habit of making socially concerned rap that’s actually danceable.

Ideal for… flying home for a family reunion

2 HALO SKIN-BRIGHTENING FACIAL MUD MASK One of the nicest things you can do for yourself on holiday is a much-deserved pampering session – but there’s no need to spend hundreds at the spa.

Instead, slip Antipodes’ new Halo Skin-Brightening Facial Mud Mask into your toiletries bag, and treat yourself to a high-performance detox for a luminous complexion twice weekly. $49; antipodesnature.com

3

3 TETON NGX WATERPROOF SNOW SPORT JACKET

2

Go straight from the slopes to out on the town in the Teton. This snow sport jacket has all the features you need from a winter jacket, which is waterproof, windproof and breathable. $449.98; kathmandu.com.au

DMA’S

FOR NOW 4

4 CIRCE BY MADELINE MILLER A magical, intoxicating epic of family rivalry, power struggles, love and loss set in Ancient Greece. Prepare to fall under her spell. $29.99, April; bloomsbury.com/au

DMA’s haven’t been spooked by the Britpop comparisons that have dogged the early part of their career. On For Now, they double down on the influences, leading to an album that’s more ambitious and accomplished than anything the Sydney three-piece have released to date.

Ideal for… exploring the restaurants, bars and live venues of Sydney’s Inner West

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6 ZHIY UN-TECH SMOO TH Q 3-A XIS GIMB A L Offering 320-degree rotation along all three axes, the Smooth Q provides remarkably versatile movements, allowing you to shoot and film from more inventive angles and perspectives with your smartphone camera. $149.95; teds.com.au

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5

3 6

ROC MARCIANO

RR2: THE BITTER DOSE Roc Marciano made waves when he initially refused to release RR2: The Bitter Dose on streaming services, instead charging a hefty $30 to download it from his website. It says plenty that he recouped his money within a day, fans dishing up the dollars to listen to the Long Island rapper’s grizzled, grimy stories Ideal for… settling in on Tigerair’s new Gold Coast-Hobart route

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2018031201555655Black_is_new_white_ 2018-03-12T01:56:03Z

Rogues and the righteous, villains and victors, saints and lost souls.

THE POINTY END

WORDS JENNY VALENTISH PHOTOS MOORILLA GALLERY

Visit the new wing of MONA in Hobart

A

ll art is subjective, but none so much as that in Pharos, the new wing of Hobart’s Museum of Old and New Art (MONA).

MONA has always loved to bamboozle, provoke and envelop in its labyrinth, but Pharos – though attached by tunnels to the larger museum – is almost a discrete entity.

For a start, it’s permanent and built around the art works (MONA owner David Walsh has joked about it being the wing that curators couldn’t

meddle with after his death); but it also messes with our visual perception to such a degree that it’s like a mob of Pamplona bulls running rampant through the pathways of the brain.

Take its centrepiece, ”Unseen Seen” – one of four commissioned installations by American artist James Turrell. Lying down inside this futuristic white dome, we’re confronted with such trippy kaleidoscopes of shapes and colours that we almost seem to be hallucinating. Even if we’ve ê

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37

THE POINTY END THE ARTWORK ”UNSEEN SEEN” BY JAMES TURRELL IN THE NEW WING

gone in with a companion, our experience can only be ours and ours alone.

You can see why Walsh and Turrell would have had such a connection that Pharos is dominated by the artist. Turrell has been experimenting with light since the 1960s and has said of his work, “I put you in a situation where you feel the physicality of light” (perversely, another of his MONA installations, ”Weight of Darkness”, is pitch black). Walsh named Pharos after the Lighthouse of Alexandria, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, which was built by the Ptolemaic Kingdom. In a blog post, he explains, “It is a temple to light.”

As it turns out, temples to light are rather high maintenance. MONA curator Jarrod Rawlins tells me with a wince, “It’s a lot of matt white surfaces. People lose their balance and leave prints. There are dust balls by afternoon.”

Rawlins is tucking into a lunch at the grand restaurant that surrounds the dome of ”Unseen Seen”. It’s called Faro, and a perk of the job is that Rawlins gets to sample the entire tapas menu. He’s well used to visitors

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Three things to see at MONA In addition to the works of Pharos, here are three other MONA highlights that shouldn't be missed

THE UNMANNED Parisian artists Fabien Giraud and Raphaël Siboni are influenced by documentary traditions. Part 1 of ”The Unmanned” runs from now until June 18, comprised of eight films that depict a history of humans and technology. This runs in reverse, starting in the year 2045, which has been predicted to be a tipping point.

Part 2 runs June 20, 2018 until Feb 4, 2019, and will be set in the year 7231.

TAT TOO TIM TALK Tim will sit on a plinth every day between 10am and 4:30pm until April 29.

“David Walsh designed this wing as his legacy, so our role is to make sure it’s what the artist wants“

Back in 2006, Belgian artist Wim Delvoye turned Tim into a human canvas by designing a large tattoo for his back.

It’s been bought by a German collector, to be delivered when Tim dies. At weekends at 1pm, Tim gives a talk.

This costs an extra $15.

CLOACA PROFESSIONAL Still on the subject of Wim, if you haven’t been to MONA before, head for the bowels of the building to find the Belgian artist’s digestive system.

It feeds at 11am and 4pm, and poos at 2pm. That’s all we’re saying.

spotting his lanyard and coming up to him, agog, needing to talk to someone in control about their experience – and whether or not it was “correct”.

“David designed this wing as his legacy, so our role is to oversee the production of it, making sure it’s sympathetic to what the artist wants,” Rawlins says. “James [Turrell] was here for a couple of weeks, setting the colour sequencing through the mixer, which was really interesting to watch.” And there’s more to come, with a room full of rainbows by American Charles Ross still under construction. Elsewhere in Pharos, there are works by Nam June Paik, whose ”Lincoln”

is built of antique television sets, topped off by a stovepipe hat (opposite page); Randy Polumbo’s kitsch sci-fi room, ”Grotto”; and Jean Tinguely’s ”Memorial to Sacred Wind or the Tomb of Kamikaze”, which, being a shrieking heap of machinery that drags itself along the ground, is a shocking juxtaposition to the sleek walls and light play.

A return to the theme of light (although it could be considered anti-light) is Richard Wilson’s ”20:50”. This is essentially a deep pool of sump oil that perfectly reflects the ceiling, like a black mirror. The French have a phrase for the ensuing sensation – l’appel du vide (the call of the void). That’s assuming you, too, get the urge to hurl yourself in.

It’s delightfully discombobulating. As Walsh himself says, “Whereas Mona is intended to be an antidote to closed-mindedness, Pharos is open-heart surgery.”

MONA is open Wed-Mon, 10am-5pm.

Entry is $25-$28 ($20-$25 concession), and James Turrell’s Unseen Seen and Weight of Darkness requires a second, combined ticket, priced $25; mona.net.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Hobart from Melbourne and the Gold Coast; tigerair.com.au

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39

THE POINTY END TRAVEL & NATURE

1 0F 2

THE PASSENGER A round-table chat with three different travellers.

This issue’s topic: city or country?

Paul Chai, city boy

Studios (melbournestreettours.com), and it reminded me how much I really just like lurking around concrete and steel.

I never hear the call of the wild, unless it’s two in the morning and I am walking past Cherry Bar. This doesn’t mean that I think we should cement in all the nature – we need it for things like breathing and for animals to live in. But I could go a very long time without seeing it, or hiking in it.

We forget that a vast majority of Australian nature wants to kill us. Not to get all British about it, but with all the deadly snakes, sharks and large reptiles we have roaming around, I think it seems a lot more sensible just to stay indoors.

Because if stuff it not out to kill you then at the very least it wants to take a nibble. Just a few weeks ago when I did give in to my wife’s urging to get amongst the green stuff we ended up covered in leeches and my son was

a bumpy road map of mosquito bites.

You don’t find leeches on a wander through Melbourne’s laneways.

Sarah Mitchell, wild one I absolutely think that some quality communing with nature is a balm for the soul. Whenever I can, I pack a backpack and escape to the country. It can actually seem as if time slows down the further you get from the city. Gone are the deadlines, the worry and, if you’re lucky, the mobile phone reception – then you can really get your commune on.

Once you embrace the stillness, the relative quiet, even – dare I say it – the boredom of long stretches in the wilderness without a screen to entertain you then your mind starts to stray, starts to think, starts to entertain itself with dreams and ideas.

Nature isn’t always comfortable, but that’s the point. The elements are ê

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

When you hand me a great big lump of nature – whether it’s mountain ranges, valleys or just miles of Australian bush – I really don’t know what to do with it.

Yes, it’s pretty to look at, but what then?

I guess you walk in it, or sleep in it, and then you get up and there it is again.

I’m a proud city slicker who can see the beauty in hidden worm farms behind laneway bars like Melbourne’s Section 8, surrounded by the tattered posters of street artists and pools of bin juice. I feel at home dragging out industrial-sized street bins to discover murals that have survived the years protected by the huge receptacles of trash. I’m never happier than sitting in a basement bar admiring the network of sewage and water pipes forming a functional cross-hatched artwork overhead.

I saw all this and more on a recent Melbourne Street Art tour with Blender

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THE POINTY END

NATURE ISN’T ALWAYS COMFORTABLE, BUT THAT’S THE POINT. THE ELEMENTS ARE THERE TO REMIND US JUST HOW LUCKY WE ARE TO BE ABLE TO SLEEP WARM AT NIGHT IN BED. there to remind us just how lucky we are to be able to sleep warm at night in bed.

They’re also a good reminder not to get too cocky, because nature can take us down a peg any time she wants.

Nature blows your mind. When you really look at some of the staggering rock formations like those along the Great Ocean Road, when you see creatures living in the most unforgiving of conditions or when you consider that this has been going on for millions of years before we were around, then you get a sense of just how unimportant we are.

Wandering around a city, you’re constantly being shouted at by people, by advertising, by hawkers trying to beckon you into shops and restaurants.

When I’m taking a day’s walk through wild countryside, there may be the cry of a bird, or the skittling of something in the underbrush, but there’s plenty of time to just be.

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Connor McLeod, fence sitter I like my nature with a side order of comfort; like a house in woods, a posh shack by the ocean, or a comfy resort room in the red sand of the Australian outback. I really do appreciate the amazing beauty of the great outdoors, but I have no desire to hike coastal tracks that go for days or get so close to nature that bits of it are sticking into my back through the floor of a flimsy tent. For me, the ideal natural getaway is to get a remote stay with plenty of comforts and then head out for strategic nature experiences with plenty of warm water and cold beer afterwards.

One of the most memorable was actually across the ditch in New Zealand,

TRAVEL & NATURE

2 0F 2

where I scored an incredible house on a cliff face on the Otago Peninsula just outside of Dunedin. The property had huge floor-to-ceiling windows that looked out onto the stormy ocean waters and the often-windblown scrub covering the steep incline. I could go for walks buffeted by the sea squalls, and when tired of it retire to my house to watch it all through the windows like a nature documentary on the world’s largest TV. There were excursions to visit the sea lions that sunbathed along the beach, a trip to an albatross colony, and plenty of time to really get a feel for the hikes and trails that spread out from my base.

I felt like I was getting my nature on but without too much of the annoying bits, like having my health-giving acai berry juice and eating it too.

I realise this idea of dipping my toe into the wild will not please the anorakwearing brigade who like to go toe-totoe with old Mother Nature, but I’m a champagne naturalist at heart.

THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

FRENCH ISLAND GLAMPING French Island, Victoria

W

hy it’s worth it: Eating breakfast metres from a snoozing wild koala on an off-the-grid island with just over 100 residents. Sorting through sea grass on the sand looking for seahorses on a beach all to yourself.

Or visiting old kilns that used to smoke chicory, the island’s main crop for more than 50 years.

All just two hours (65km) from Melbourne.

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French Island is the largest island in Victoria, a quirky natural retreat that’s two-thirds national park and one-third people who want to live life by their own rules.

Bang for your buck: You are buying isolation, but in a comfortable bell tent with the best views on the island watching the tide heave in and out across

get off the grid With its wildlife, beautiful wetlands and laidback attitude, French Island feels a million miles away

the Rain Point wetlands. There’s a feeling of remoteness that comes with the dirt roads and solar power, the unspoilt bushland and the neighbourhood of nonchalant koalas that inhabit your 100 acres of island. There are just five tents to share the communal facilities with, as well as a few llamas and alpacas. Birders will appreciate the diverse birdlife from sea eagles to Cape Barren Geese, a resident of Australia’s offshore islands.

The digs: Simple, comfortable tents with queen-sized beds, complimentary toiletries, rustic decor and quality Bluetooth speakers. Each tent has a private fire pit and some sport outdoor

decking, and if you go in winter your tent will have its own pot-bellied stove to keep you warm. The shared kitchen and bathrooms look like a country guesthouse, and there’s a communal fire pit if you’re feeling chatty.

Must-do experience: The thing to do on French Island is nothing. Some guests just come for the silence and slumber.

But you should make it to FIGS: French Island General Store. The store is the hub of the island, selling supplies, meals and hiring out bikes to go exploring.

Towering over it is the wind turbine that helps power the proceedings.

The damage: Tents from $325 a night in high season; frenchislandglamping.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 10 destinations; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

BARS AND STRIPES T he

Barsto

ol

F

or most modern beer drinkers, craft beer means “Australian pale ale”. It's a style championed in Australia by most independent brewers that suits our warm climate and need for refreshment, while giving just enough added hop aroma and bitterness on the palate to make it interesting but not off-putting.

But they say everything is bigger and better in America, so if you’re looking for something more from your pale ale, then the American style may be a great way to expand your beer horizons.

Compared to Australian pale ales, the American varieties have a stronger aroma and are more bitter, delivered by the use of “new world” hops like Cascade in greater quantities than the Australian varieties. The great news is that you don’t have to travel to the USA to enjoy one, as there are a number of Australian breweries where you can enjoy their take on the American pale ale style.

Little Creatures, WA Little Creatures pioneered the pale ale style for Australians back 17 years ago. This American pale ale style uses whole hop cones, sourced straight from the USA and delivered directly to the brewery. A pint of it is best enjoyed

Take your taste buds on a trip to the US by trying these American Pale Ales while sitting on the harbour deck of the Fremantle brewery alongside a plate of muscles and chips.

Mews Road, Fremantle; littlecreatures.com.au

Batch Brewing Company, NSW In Sydney’s Inner West, the Batch Brewing Company has another take on the American pale ale. Roll up the garage door and you can enjoy an eclectic mix of food from the food trucks that rotate daily while washing it down with a glass of their American pale ale. If you’re not ready for a full glass, the staff will happily let you try before or you can get a tasting paddle.

Sydenham Road, Marrickville; batchbrewingco.com.au

Green Beacon, QLD While Brisbane was behind other cities with craft brewery openings, it has quickly caught up – and Green Beacon is one of the leading lights. Their flag ship “3 Bolt” American pale ale is a great one to try as it's sweeter than many others, with passionfruit, mango and hints of malt sweetness. The brewery is open seven days with resident food trucks Monday through Wednesday.

Helen Street, Teneriffe; greenbeacon.com.au

Hawkers Brewery, VIC

there are a number of brewery bars offering American pale ales.

While Hawkers is building their cellar door, you can enjoy their pale ale at the nearby Post Office Hotel in Coburg. Here you can savour Hawkers’ quintessential take on the Americanstyle pale ale, hop-forward and very balanced. Enjoy it at the bar alongside a mix of long-term locals and visitors coming to enjoy the live music on most Thursday through Sunday nights.

Post Office Hotel, Sydney Road, Coburg; hawkers.beer So there you have it: while there’s much debate about the virtues of the Australian or American version of pale ale, one thing you can rely on is that nothing quite beats enjoying an Australian take on the American pale ale served fresh in the place where it was brewed.

MEET THE AUTHOR Martyn Ferguson has 15 years experience in brewing and is the founder of beer marketing and sales consultancy Escalator Partners; escalatorpartners.com

Some say Melbourne is the most vibrant craft beer city in Australia, so no surprise

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THE POINTY END

Pound pavement on a “runcation”

WORDS PRU BURNS

W

hen a friend asked what I was doing for a Melbourne winter getaway last year I told them I was heading for the Gold Coast. Endless white sand, pictureperfect skies, surf for days and the heavenly mid-20-something-degree weather.

There was just one catch – I hate beaches, and my friend knew it.

“Oh, I know,” I said when she greeted my news with a harsh silence. “I’m not going for the beach.

I’m going to do the Gold Coast Marathon!”

She was equally perplexed. Why would anyone go on a holiday that involved running 42 kilometres?

It’s true, I like running. But what I love more than running is planning a holiday around a running event. These days it’s called a “runcation” and it’s the sort of thing I start to organise six months in advance. I book flights and accommodation early as most of the bigger running festivals attract thousands of international runners. The Gold Coast Marathon is one of those events. It’s called Australia’s flattest marathon – a scenic seaside course that takes in the sights of Surfers Paradise, Mermaid Beach and Burleigh Heads.

At the stage of booking the runcation, I had never been to the Gold Coast and I had also ê

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THE SYDNEY RUNNING FESTIVAL IS AL SO A POPUL AR RUNCATION

THE POINTY END

Three runcations to tackle A D E L A ID E M A R AT H O N F E S T I VA L Whether you take on the full marathon, the half-marathon or the family friendly shorter runs, this is even is a fun day out.

May 23; adelaidemarathon.org.au

B L A C K M O R E S S Y D N E Y R U N NIN G F E S T I VA L The Sydney Running Festival will return to one of the more scenic runcation locations when more than 33,000 entrants pound their way across the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

September 16; sydneyrunningfestival.com.au

M C L A R E N VA L E H A L F M A R AT H O N The scenic half-marathon course takes in the Shiraz Trail between McLaren Vale and Willunga, with a loop along the rail trail between McLaren Vale and Seaford.

There are also 10km and 5km courses.

October 14; sarrc.org.au

never run a marathon. I convinced my husband that a family holiday with a run on the side would suit all parties. After all, the husband and kids like beaches, even if I don’t. Selling the holiday to them was easy.

There was something in it for everyone.

But the “something” in it for me, (and other like-minded runners) is much more simple.

When you find yourself in a new unexplored city, there’s something wonderful about the fusion of the natural adrenaline that comes from the start line of a race aligned with all your senses, alive in a new city.

I’ve explored several other cities in a similar way. The more contrasting they are, the better. I once signed up for a race out of the blue after spotting it in a magazine on my way to a wedding. It just happened to coincide with a spare day I had on the outskirts of a tiny farming town where the wedding was being held. Soon I was running 21 kilometres of the most beautiful rolling country hills, quaint little cottages dotted alongside a winding creek with local roadside volunteers handing out local produce to thirsty and hungry runners.

It‘s a similarly collegiate atmosphere at the Gold Coast Marathon, where thousands

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“I convinced my husband that a family holiday with a run on the side would suit all parties”

of locals line the streets cheering everyone on. It feels like the perfect welcome party into a local community who host the event with a sense of pride and victory. And the pre-running and post-running festivities help the tourism economy immensely. This particular run attracts 25,000 participants from over 50 countries.

In the lead-up to the holiday, the weeks start to whittle away, while my training kilometres increase. I‘ve also convinced another couple with their children to join our family and I sneakily sell it to them as a holiday to the Gold Coast with a little 10-kilometre run or halfmarathon on the side.

Surprisingly, they signed up.

Our holiday begins and, as promised, we go to the beach, check out some of the main tourist attractions for the kids and then make a trip to the Marathon event village to collect our showbags and race packs. The excitement in the village among other runners is hard to miss.

In my planning for these runcations, I always make sure the running event is scheduled in the first couple of days of the holiday so we can all enjoy a relaxing

THE GOLD COAST MAR ATHON IS HAILED AS ONE OF THE FL ATTEST RUNS AROUND

break afterwards. On this occasion, it is probably fortuitous.

At the stunning Broadbeach sunrise at 5:30am on the morning of the Marathon, the soft light illuminating the coastline, the marshals gun signals the start of what ends up being only two hours of running and sightseeing rather than the four hours planned for my first marathon attempt.

While I’m devastated an injury has stopped me in my tracks, I‘m also feeling somewhat relieved that all I need to do is hobble down to the water, roll out my towel on the warm sand and relax, knowing my injury rehab has begun. On this occasion, with very little argument, I give into my disdain for the beach and decide to enjoy a well-deserved beach break holiday with my family and friends.

The next Gold Coast Marathon is on June 30, and is the 40th edition of this event. For more information visit goldcoastmarathon.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to the Gold Coast from Hobart, Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

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WORDS XXXX PHOTOS XXXXX

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ITALIAN CLUB REVIVAL

Keep the ball rolling Can a new generation of bocce lovers save Melbourne’s old-school Italian clubs from fading into obscurity? Celebrity chef Guy Grossi hopes so. He tells Ricky French about the importance of these clubs in preserving his country’s culture.

PHOTOS SAMARA CLIFFORD

I

t’s the fireplace where the magic happens. The magic of warmth and the magic of connection.

You can sail across oceans, leave everything you know behind, but the hearth – the fogolar – brings you home.

In an anonymous corner of Thornbury, Melbourne, away from the cafes, record stores and craft beer bars of High Street, wedged between a semi-industrial block and a high school, stands the Fogolar Furlan Club (Furlan Club for short), an Italian Club with one hell of a story. Last year the club celebrated its 60th anniversary. A lot of unforgettable moments have gone down here, but today something particularly memorable is taking place: the club is hosting the world’s worst game of bocce.

Dubbed a “sports carnival for the unsporty,” the promise of bocce, beer and pizza has enticed dozens of young, inner-city dwellers to jump on their bikes

or into an Uber and head to what people are now calling the best kept secret in town, the Furlan Club boccedrome. Bocce is similar to bowls, but there’s no bias on the balls, which is just as well because unlike bowls you can throw these hefty balls in the air. Today’s newbies are launching their balls in all directions, only occasionally in the vicinity of the jack.

Sharing the space with them are dozens of elderly Alpini, Italy’s elite mountain infantry force, all sporting the capello alpino – traditional alpine army headwear, a raffish hat topped off with an elegant black feather.

As well as the bocce courts there’s also a soccer field, an enormous ballroom and a well-stocked bar across which beer and pizza is served to the unsporty patrons.

There are retro foosball tables adorned with ashtrays, and photos of happy events going back decades: soccer teams, netball teams, dinner and dance nights, New Year’s Eve celebrations, Miss Friuli pageants, ê

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even the bocce world championships. While some of the photos and the memories are hazy, the mood in the room is unmistakable: it’s revival.

Today’s new bocce players may be struggling with their technique, but help is close by. Wise, old hands demonstrate the art and give helpful pointers to the hopeless, often in the form of wild gestures.

The bocce masters hold their heads in their hands and cringe in mock horror, but mostly they laugh and the years peel off their faces. After the game, young and old gather in the bar beside the fogolar and the stories begin, just like they always have.

When we think of Melbourne today we imagine a vibrant and diverse street scene – great coffee and the smell of exotic food, rain pelting on awnings as hordes gather in narrow laneways eating and socialising. But we don’t always think back to the struggle that brought it here, and why we owe such a debt to the warmth that radiated from clubs like this, then spread through the city.

Post-World War II saw mass immigration to Australia from Europe, bringing thousands to start a new life in a strange land. But the land of opportunity was also a land of isolation.

Newcomers weren’t accepted easily, let alone embraced. Furlan Club president Peter Muzzolini remembers the struggles his own father (a former club president) had when he landed in Australia.

“A lot of people went through an almost repressed period where they had to hold their heritage in.”

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ITALIAN CLUB REVIVAL

Melbourne’s Italian clubs FOGOL AR FURL AN CLUB 1 Matisi Street, Thornbury; furlanclub.com.au

ABRUZZO CLUB 377 Lygon Street, East Brunswick; abruzzoclub.com.au

REGGIO CAL ABRIA CLUB 476 Brunswick Road, Parkville; calabriaclub.com.au

VENETO CLUB 191 Bulleen Road, Bulleen; facebook.com/venetoclub

Italian clubs, along with hundreds of other ethnic clubs, were largely formed out of loneliness, and the need to maintain connection. Men came in search of a future, families came as refugees, but remained connected to their homeland. Furlan Club member Fred Martin’s brother Gilbert was one of the founders of the club. “Initially the people were meeting in houses, anywhere they could find. One thing they did was organise recorded messages to be sent home to loved ones in Italy at Christmas and Easter. A lot of single men had left their entire families behind.”

The messages were recorded on a reel-to-reel tape, and when the tape reached Italy it would be listened to then turned over, and messages back to Australia would be recorded. A hall in Melbourne

“These clubs are a device for keeping community together and telling stories. We can’t lose them”

GUY GROSSI TOURS THE FURLAN CLUB, A PLACE FULL OF MEMORIES

would be hired and everyone would gather to hear the messages played. Tears would invariably flow.

The Friuli-Venezia Giulia region in northern Italy stretches from the high alps down to the coast at the north-east corner of the Adriatic Sea. Winters are long and cold. A home’s fogolar provided more than heat: it provided a place of connection and conversation. Like the food that was cooked in the embers, it nourished the body and soul. People were together, the flames roared and the problems of the world melted away. Italian clubs in Australia helped replicate this comfort.

“There was so much homesickness,” Martin says.

“The first few years were so hard. There was a lot of animosity towards Italians after the war because they were on the wrong side.” The Furlan Club, along with many clubs like it, served the same purpose: a central fogolar for the people.

The club purchased its first clubhouse in 1957, in nearby Mansfield Street. By 1985 it had outgrown the premises and built a larger headquarters at 1 Matisi Street, where it remains today. The clubhouse was built entirely by members, donating their time and building expertise. Dinner and dance nights were attended by hundreds and sports teams flourished. It was also a place to network, to meet potential employers or find a workforce. ê

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BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER • DESSERT

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ITALIAN CLUB REVIVAL But beneath the surface a sad reality was slowly emerging, as it was for so many clubs like it. The founding generation was ageing, and the younger generation had a different attitude. They saw themselves more as Aussies, not Italians, and many shunned the homeland traditions the clubs were trying to so hard to keep alive. But the clubs have a trump card up their sleeve, other than sports days for the unsporty. Food.

Today the Furlan Club has a special visitor: chef Guy Grossi. He steps forward and is immediately taken back. Grossi grew up going to various Italian clubs around Melbourne every week.

With a father from northern Italy and a mother from the south he was exposed to the regional variations of cooking. He says it helped shape him into the chef he is today. “A club like this is great because it shows the focus of the region.

Friuli is a wonderful region, and a dish from Friuli is different to a dish from the Veneto. As a chef you become exposed to all sorts of influences.

THE WALLS TELL STORIES AT THESE CLUBS Everything creeps in. You draw from your cultural background, your heritage, to create dishes.”

Grossi says he cooks from two territories: Victoria, where he lives, and Italy, the territory his parents left behind. It’s about combining the fresh, seasonal food grown near him with the recipes and traditions of his cultural heritage. “You want people to put food in their mouths, roll their eyes back and say ‘that’s amazing!’”

Grossi points out it’s not the bricks and mortar that make the clubs. It’s what happens inside those walls. It could happen anywhere, and when Grossi was growing up it did. “You’d be in a backyard with so many people and there ê

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ITALIAN CLUB REVIVAL

wouldn’t be enough furniture so some people would sit on fruit boxes from the local greengrocer.

The old boys would play cards and there would be arguments over who cheated and it was an amazing atmosphere. Us kids were excited to be there because there were other kids there and it was always a special occasion.”

Grossi remembers the days when every backyard was an orchard and a market garden.

Food was the centre of family life. “The kitchen was the focal point of the household. If you wanted to see mum, you’d go into the kitchen and there she’d be,” he says. “Dad would run the garden out the back. He grew his own tomatoes, zucchinis, broad beans. You were eating things that were seasonal. Keeping those traditional dishes alive was crucial to keeping the culture alive. It still is.”

Grossi doesn’t want the influence that Italian clubs have had on Melbourne culture to be forgotten, or even worse, the clubs to be lost.

THE FURLAN CLUB BOCCEDROME IS YOUR NEX T GRE AT DAY OUT

“These clubs are a community device – a device for keeping community together and telling stories, like the stories on the wall here. We can’t lose them.”

Fellow Melbourne chef Joe Vargetto – owner of Mister Bianco, Massi and Fondata – has a similar story to tell. His Sicilian father came to Australia in 1956. He attended Italian clubs with his parents all through the 70s and 80s. “They were a place for people to network, to have a piece of Italy here.”

He agrees that loneliness permeated a lot of the time. “I saw my father cry a lot. That stopped when he was at the clubs. His life was these clubs.”

Vargetto sees the world through food, and has a different insight into what may contribute to the resurgence of Italian clubs. “Back then, these clubs weren’t as much about food as they were about socialising and sharing stories. Food was something that happened at home. But today, new immigrants are bringing more authentic Italian ê

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ITALIAN CLUB REVIVAL

food to the clubs. The food is now more authentic than the people. It’s a strange reversal.” Strange but necessary, perhaps. When a part of your culture gets lost, something needs to bring it back. “Many children (of founding members) shunned the culture and the recipes got lost. But my generation is trying to bring that back,” Vargetto adds.

Back at the Furlan Club the crew are gearing up for one of the biggest days of the year.

On April 5 they celebrate Friuli Day. There’ll be grape stomping, games of bocce, traditional dishes and a chance to reminisce about how a group of ordinary people started something special. The faded photos will come alive, the people now gone will be remembered and the rooms will buzz with life. In a small room near the bocce courts is a glass cabinet full of love. Wine carafes, old letters, flags, gifts from Friulian clubs all over the world. Symbols of connection, each with a personal message.

This is the power of objects to tell stories.

Part social club, part museum.

Grossi knows that it will take action, though, not just words, if these clubs are to thrive.

“The way to get new people involved is through fun. Through showing them it’s not a chore to crush tomatoes and clean them and bottle them.

Show them that it’s actually a fun thing to do because you’re bringing people together, you’re having food and drinks and having a carnival.”

A carnival for the unsporty; for the unculinary.

A club for the young and old and for every culture that has come to Melbourne, carved out a home and spread colour and warmth through the city.

A place for visitors to come and gather round the fogolar, soak up history, perhaps a little grappa, and keep the flame burning.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 10 destinations; tigerair.com.au

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S U N D AY 14 t h O C T O B E R 2 0 1 8

m e l b o u r n e m a r at h o n . c o m . a u

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adventurewhitsunday.com.au #adventurewhitsunday Ph: 1300 640 587 or + 61 (7) 4948 5400 ext 1 Email: reservations@adventurewhitsunday.com.au 25- 29 Shute Harbour Road, Airlie Beach, Queensland

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DESTINATION WHITSUNDAYS

DE S T IN AT ION W HI T S UND AY S

S H A R ON

takes her camera on a scenic journey around the Whitsundays

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION, TWO DIFFERENT ADVENTURES PHOTOGRAPHY VS FISHING

JUL I A N

embarks on a fishing expedition, taking in the rock walls, river, dam, Whitsunday Islands and Great Barrier Reef

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WEEKEND WARRIORS SE A SIDE S TROL L

BE ACH BRE A K FA S T I start my day at the Fat Frog Beach Cafe (44 Coral Esplanade, Cannonvale Beach; facebook.com/ fatfrogbeachcafe), where I can watch the world go by over a breakfast of pumpkin frittata, beetroot chutney, seasonal greens and lemon and herb ricotta, a.k.a. the “Funky Frog”.

Fully fuelled, I step onto the Bicentennial Boardwalk, a 3.7km walkway along the Coral Sea coastline from Cannonvale to Airlie Beach. Abell Point Marina (Shingley Drive; abellpointmarina.com.au) provides a welcome resting place and an opportunity for refreshment mid-way.

COOL DIP No visit to Airlie Beach would be complete without a swim in its famous lagoon.

Surrounded by landscaped, grassy knolls and with its own sandy beach, it’s the perfect place to relax, cool off and enjoy the view.

S H A R ON

follows the Bicentennial Boardwalk to the highlights of Airlie Beach

f r id ay

10:00

12:00

13:00

GE T TING HOOK ED

CREEK TO COA S T My day starts with a 45-minute drive from Airlie Beach to the Cape Gloucester Resort (Gloucester Avenue, Hydeaway Bay), where I meet Mick from Reel Addiction Sport Fishing Charters (reeladdiction.com.au). Mick is the “go-to guy” at the top of the Whitsundays for catching estuarine and saltwater fish.

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We launch Mick’s customdesigned boat from the beach and head to an island just offshore where he tells me the longtail tuna have been on the bite. I catch a few coral trout and a couple of small wire-netting cod, but it’s changing tactics to trolling lures that eventually lands us those bigger fish.

ME A L S ON REEL S It’s time for lunch, and we’ve got the main ingredient. The team at the Cape Gloucester Resort’s Oar Bar & Restaurant (capeg.com.au) know exactly what to do with our school mackerel catch.

Pan-fried and served with a citrus salad and caper beurre blanc sauce, this is open-air dining at its best.

DESTINATION WHITSUNDAYS SUNSE T S AILING

ON THE DECK It’s a short stroll to the main street of Airlie Beach where The Deck (277 Shute Harbour Road; facebook.com/thedeckairliebeach) catches my eye for its airy aspect along Airlie Creek. Here I feast on a late lunch of wild caught local fish with skordalia and green olive salsa.

It’s another leisurely walk to the Port of Airlie where I board the 60ft sailing yacht Banjo Paterson (The Beacons, Boathaven Beach, Port of Airlie; banjopatersonsailing.com). With her proud history of ocean racing and cruising, she’s the perfect platform for a twilight voyage across Pioneer Bay with a glass of champagne in hand.

15:00

17:00

FINE DINING Back on dry land I cross the marina to Walter’s Lounge (Shop F8, Port of Airlie Marina, Port Drive; walterslounge.com.au).

Every dish on the fivecourse tasting menu is meticulously planned and exquisitely presented. From the clever play on calamari and accompaniments to the Baileys log with fresh cherries, chocolate textures, it’s a gastronomic experience worthy of the venue’s Australian Good Food Guide Chef Hat awards.

19:00

JUL I A N

wets a line off the Cape Gloucester coast and fine-tunes his appetite for Whitsunday seafood

GONE FISHING

L OC A L K NOWL EDGE I drive back to Airlie Beach and call into Whitsunday Fishing World (112 Shute Harbour Road, Cannonvale; facebook.com/ whitsundayfishingworld) to get the low-down from the local experts on what’s biting and where.

On Grant’s advice I head to the waterside VMR club, where good numbers of grunter and even the odd barra and fingermark are caught off the rock walls.

I don’t have any luck this time, but it’s a lovely way to end the afternoon.

SE A FOOD SENS ATION For dinner I head to The Boathouse at Port of Airlie, where Fishbar (Shop F16 Port of Airlie Marina; boathousefishbar.com) is the talk of the town.

Head chef Emma serves sashimi tuna with housemade pickled kimchi, followed by a seafood plate filled with Whitsunday wild tiger prawns, Hervey Bay scallops, cooked blue swimmer crab, freshly shucked oysters and salmon smoked in-house.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

FLYING HIGH There’s excitement in the air at the GSL Aviation check-in desk (Whitsunday Airport, 12 Air Whitsunday Drive, Flametree; gslaviation.com.au), where I prepare to board a fixed wing Airvan. There is only one way to see the Whitsundays’ world-famous Heart Reef and that’s from above. It exceeds all expectations, matched only by the views over the Whitsunday Island icons on the flight home.

WATER WONDERL A ND I’m not on the ground for long as the next step in the itinerary is to jump on a “duck” with Australian Tourism Award-winners Ocean Rafting (Abell Point Marina, North Village; oceanrafting.com.au). We skim the seas to the Whitsunday Islands where we snorkel in coral-lined bays filled with turtles and schools of inquisitive tropical fish.

POS TC A RD PA NOR A M A S Next on the agenda is Hill Inlet on Whitsunday Island, world-famous for its swirling silica sands. It’s a 15-minute hike from Tongue Bay to the Hill Inlet lookout where a postcard panorama awaits.

S H A R ON

explores the Whitsunday scenery from above and below on a fly and cruise package

S AT UR D AY

08:00

10:30

12:00

C ATCH ME IF YOU C A N It doesn’t take long before our rods are twitching and soon we’re hauling in cobia, red throat emperor and grassy sweetlip. A couple of “big ones” get away and give us a workout in the process.

VITA MIN SE A Today I’m joining a group of friends on a charter with Topnotch Game Fishing Charters (topnotchgamefishing.com.au). Our hosts Russell and Marlene take us to their favourite spots on the Great Barrier Reef where the colours are so captivating I have to remind myself we’re here to catch fish.

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PA R A DISE ON A PL AT TER Lunch is a seafood and antipasto platter courtesy of D’Vine Catering & Events (dvinecateringandevents. com.au). The platter of mud crab, prawns, oysters and smoked salmon, interspersed with cheeses, meats and seasonal tropical fruits makes for a dish that looks as delicious as it tastes.

DESTINATION WHITSUNDAYS

M A KING WAV ES BE ACH BUFFE T Lunch is in the most idyllic setting possible at the entrance to picture-perfect Hill Inlet and Whitehaven Beach. Our Ocean Rafting crew have prepared a buffet meal, eaten between swims in the crystal clear seas.

The ride back to Airlie Beach proves as much a highlight as the rest of the day has been as we race our fellow Ocean Rafters, catching the waves from our sister ducks.

14:00

17:30

SORRENTO SUNSE T Back in port it’s only a few steps to Sorrento Restaurant & Bar (Abell Point Marina, North Village; sorrentowhitsunday.com) where there is even a cocktail called a Sorrento Sunset.

This is the perfect place to watch the sun go down while tucking into Prawn Gamberi followed by a pizza or authentic Italian pasta dish.

20:00

JUL I A N

joins a private charter to the Whitsunday Islands and Great Barrier Reef

ISL A ND TIME

REEL SPOR T After lunch we get our game fish on, trolling for the schools of longtail tuna leaping into the air. A large predator is targeting them and a four-metre flash makes us pretty sure there’s a marlin in our midst. Russell’s tales from the Topnotch heavy tackle charters place them firmly on our bucket list.

We stop in at the Whitsunday Islands on the way back to Airlie Beach where fishing with lightly weighted prawns and pilchards brings in more red throat emperor and sweetlip in a final hurrah for our time on the water.

B AIT TO PL ATE There is no better way to end than by having the catch cooked at Fish D’Vine (303 Shute Harbour Road; fishdvine.com.au). Since this restaurant shares its space with Rum Bar (rumbar.com.au) we begin with their famous mojitos. Our fish is served beside jasmine rice, Asian greens and ginger dipping sauce.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

HONE Y E ATER HIK E

S TREE T SCENE The Sidewalk Cafe (1 Airlie Esplanade; sidewalkcafe.net.au) boasts some of the best coffee in Airlie Beach, as well as being a great place to catch up on Instagram and do a spot of people watching over a Chia Breakfast Parfait.

I burn off some of this fabulous Whitsunday food with an 8.2km hike to the Honeyeater Lookout. Named for the birds seen feeding on nectar when the grasstrees are flowering, the lookout is accessed from a track at Kara Crescent. It’s a steep climb and not for the fainthearted, but the view over Airlie Beach, Cannonvale and the Whitsunday Islands is the ultimate reward.

KICKING B ACK I’ve earned a rest so after completing the descent I head to the Treehouse Airlie Beach (6/263 Shute Harbour Road; airlietreehouse.com).

Salt and pepper squid with Romesco Sauce and a glass of wine consumed while overlooking the lagoon and giant fig trees, is just the pick-me-up I need.

S H A R ON

hikes to lookouts and enjoys fine dining at the water’s edge

S UND AY

09:00

11:00

12:00

HUNT FOR THE HOLY GR AIL It’s an early start at the Peter Faust Dam, also known as Lake Proserpine and one of Australia’s premier stocked impoundments. If anyone is going to help me catch the Holy Grail – that metre-plus-long barra – it’s Lindsay Dobe of Lake Proserpine Fishing Charters (barramundicharters.com).

BACK TO BA SIC S

BIG B A RR A Using his 18 years of intuition as much as the hightech sounders on his customised boat, Lindsay takes me casting into the trees along the creek lines, fishing the weed edges with shallow divers and surface lures and trolling along the old river course.

Those monster barra elude me this time, but I’m stoked with the couple of smaller ones we catch.

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All that action has made me hungry so I call in at Kenny’s Seafood (Bruce Highway, Proserpine). This is no ordinary fish ‘n’ chip shop, but one of the top five in the state according to results from the 2017 Australian Fish and Chips Awards.

DESTINATION WHITSUNDAYS

TROPIC A L T WILIGHT

HIDDEN HIDE AWAY S It’s a drive to my next destination of the beachside suburb at Hydeaway Bay. Here in the northern reaches of the Whitsundays the reef seems to touch the coast and the views at the lookouts take my breath away.

Pausing for a cocktail at Montes Reef Resort (Gloucester Avenue; montesreefresort.com.au) I take a stroll along the beach as the sun begins to set. With views across the Gloucester Passage and up the coast, this is one of the few Whitsunday mainland locations where you can see the sunset.

14:00

16:00

MOOD FOR FOOD Returning to Airlie Beach, I have a reservation at Hemingway’s (Abell Point Marina, South Village; hemingwaysairliebeach. com.au). One of just three restaurants in the Whitsunday region to have been awarded an Australian Good Food Guide Chef Hat. As I savour the dishes brought to the table, I have something in common with the venue’s namesake – “(I begin) to be happy and to make plans.”

19:00

JUL I A N

goes in search of big Barra in the Proserpine Dam

SURF & TURF

GOING CR A BBING I only have to cross the highway to revisit Lindsay at Barra World (133 Main Street, Proserpine; facebook. com/ProserpineBaitTackleQLD).

Here I find everything I need to catch a mud crab on the mighty Proserpine River.

FISH TA L ES It’s a drive towards Conway to get to the Proserpine River boat ramp where I find long-time locals castnetting for bait and fishing from the pontoon. It takes only 15 minutes to catch my first mud crab, but she’s an undersize female so I throw her back.

I finish my weekend with a visit to – KC’s (382 Shute Harbour Road, Airlie Beach; kcswhitsundays.com). Dinner is Reef & Beef – a 300g grassfed rib fillet, topped with prawns, scallops calamari, a creamy garlic sauce and chef Alan’s sweet onion and apple chutney with a hint of chilli.

FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors, get in touch.

tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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From St Kilda to Kings Cross

PHOTOS TOURISM BODIES

(via Brisbane)

Music nerds: walk this way. Jenny Valentish has created three walking tours that highlight the musical heritage of three Australian cities: Melbourne, Brisbane and Sydney.

T

hink of Australian music history and you’re likely to imagine suburban beer barns heaving with rowdy crowds, or perhaps the intoxicatingly seedy Kings Cross clubs, immortalised in many a song. In a shocking disregard for culture, developers have been allowed to flatten many of our heritage venues to build apartments, but that’s prompted music fans to install murals and plaques at the sites of significance, or even name laneways and parks after musicians of note. Follow our umbrella through these music tours of Melbourne, Brisbane and Sydney. Loitering at the bars encouraged.

MELBOURNE Once upon a time, Melbourne’s laneways were littered with jazz and rock clubs. While most are no more – and larger venues such as the Esplanade Hotel and the Palace have shut in recent years – local music fans have a fighting spirit. Back in 2010, 20,000 of them marched ê

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The Metro), an Art Deco venue that was bought by developers in 2015 and now lies derelict.

In better news, Music Victoria and Street Press Australia have an app that will direct you to the nearest active venue, as well as record stores.

Download ‘Melbourne Music City’.

Walk to AC/DC Lane: Joining a mural of AC/DC’s Angus Young doing the duck walk is a depiction of the late guitarist Malcolm Young with angel wings and devil horns.

The laneway is also home to legendary rock club Cherry Bar, where massive stars including Lady Gaga come to party on after their stadium shows.

Walk down Flinders Lane to Swanston Street: In 1976, AC/DC played “It’s a Long Way to the Top” on the back of a flatbed truck that drove down Swanston Street, surrounded by bagpipe players.

THE PAL AIS THEATRE FEATURES A FAMOUS ART DECO FACADE

BEST TIMES TO VISIT MELBOURNE upon Parliament on the first SLAM (Save Live Australia’s Music) Day, to protest liquor licensing laws that threatened music venues.

And in 2014, under pressure, the Victorian state government introduced the “agent of change” principle into planning law.

This requires a developer to include noise attenuation measures when a proposed residential development is within 50 metres of an existing music venue. Previously the onus had been on the venue owner, which was often unaffordable.

Airport to Melbourne Museum, Carlton: Head to the Bunjilaka Aboriginal Cultural Centre to listen to a jukebox of songs by First Peoples musicians, chosen for their relevance to Koori Victoria. These include “Streets of Old Fitzroy” by Harry Williams and the Country Outcasts – very appropriate, since the Museum borders Fitzroy.

Get the 96 tram to Amphlett Lane: In 2015, a grassroots campaign by Divinyls fans and loved ones of the late singer Chrissy Amphlett successfully campaigned for a laneway to be named after her, and it’s a popular stopping point for music fans thanks to the murals there.

At the rear of Amphlett Lane are the back doors to The Palace (also formerly known as

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Music Cities Convention (April 19-20); Melbourne Guitar Show (August 5-6); Melbourne Festival (October 4-21); Melbourne Music Week (November); Face the Music Contemporary Music Summit (November); St Kilda Music Festival (February 2019); Moomba (March 2019)

Walk to the Arts Centre Melbourne: You’ve hit the mother lode. On the ground floor of the Arts Centre sits the new Australian Music Vault, with rotating and permanent exhibitions. It’s an interactive journey into music history, featuring paraphernalia and outfits from Kylie Minogue, Olivia NewtonJohn, Skyhooks, John Farnham, Nick Cave and countless others. On April 28 and May 26 at 1pm, a Melbourne Music Bus Tour will leave from the Vault, costing $60 (artscentremelbourne.com.au).

MUSIC WALKING TOURS

ê

CHERRY BAR NEEDED HELP AFTER DEVELOPERS TRIED TO STOP THE MUSIC

96 tram to St Kilda: Back in the mid-70s to mid-80s, the St Kilda sound was so specific to the art school bands circling the Crystal Ballroom (125 Fitzroy Street) that it was as though the suburb was cut adrift from the rest of Melbourne. Now the Ballroom belongs to a catering company, so it’s only possible to stop in at the Melbourne Wine Room beneath it and imagine the hijinks that went on. Thankfully, the Palais Theatre next to Luna Park is still intact, and its Art Deco facade has just had a glorious facelift. While you’re in St Kilda, walk the back streets to Rowland S Howard Lane, which has colourful murals devoted to the Birthday Party guitarist it’s named after.

AC/DC LANE SPORTS A MURAL BASED ON HOW KIDS FEEL ABOUT MUSIC

BRISBANE The Queensland Government might have tried to decimate the music scene in the 1970s by turning Brisbane into a police state, but these days the city celebrates its culture. Brisbane City Council absolves the entertainment district of Fortitude Valley from noise complaints, and the private sector is pumping $2 billion into Brisbane Live, which will include an indoor arena. The city also admirably celebrates its musical heritage by naming landmarks after its alumni, such as Bee Gees Way in Redcliffe and Ed Kuepper ê

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Park in Oxley. You’d need a car for those, but it’s easy to follow a more central beat by public transport.

Airport train to Roma Street Station: The Queensland Government pledged $60k for this grand mural on Upper Roma Street of 70s heroes The Saints, designed by Frank and Mimi. This September, the mural will become the first stop in a music trail created by musician and academic Dr John Willsteed, taking in old venues and rehearsal spaces throughout the city. From here, walk past the famous XXXX Brewery to 4 Petrie Terrace. This humble abode was once known as Club 76 and was a sharehouse, rehearsal space and venue used

by The Saints. Make a pit stop at Lefty’s Old Time Music Hall at 15 Caxton Street. It was once Baroona Hall, where The Go-Betweens played their first gig.

“In 1976, AC/DC played ‘It’s a Long Way to the Top’ on Swanston Street“ DIVINYLS FRONTWOMAN CHRISSY AMPHLETT HAD A LANE NAMED AFTER HER

Retrace steps and take the train to Fortitude Valley: Local journalist Andrew Stafford wrote the definitive history of Brisbane’s music scene, and there are quotes from Pig City stencilled on the walls around Fortitude Valley Station. From there, turn left and head towards Brunswick Street Mall, where you’ll find the Insta-worthy plaques of the Valley Walk of Fame set into pavement, in homage to Powderfinger, Amy Shark, The Grates and more (and if you want to veer off course, Patience and John from The Grates run the Southside Tea Room in Morningside). Still standing at 321 Brunswick Street is Ric’s Bar, where The Go-Betweens’ Grant McLennan used to enjoy a Long Island iced tea. Also within walking distance is The Zoo on Ann Street, thought to be the longest-standing club in Australia, and Tym Guitars on Winn Street – a music shop that’s also a record store with a stage. Incidentally, every September, the BIGSOUND Festival and Conference activates the Valley across 17 live music venues over three nights.

60 or 470 bus from Wickham Street to 7-9 Stratton Street, Newstead: The hangar-like Triffid was opened by JC of Powderfinger and builder Scott Hutchinson, and is renowned for its good sound. The same team are behind a new, 3,500-capacity venue set to open in mid-2019 in Fortitude Valley; their

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MUSIC WALKING TOURS intention is to replace Festival Hall, which was knocked down in 2003 to make way for (grrr) Festival Towers. Raise a glass to them in the Triffid beer garden.

CityCat to South Bank ferry terminal: Now you’re in the cultural precinct, so stroll down the waterfront, past the Queensland Performing Arts Centre, to the State Library of Queensland. There, the John Oxley Library has a collection of rare local music paraphernalia.

IMAGE: DESTINATION NSW

199 or 196 bus to New Farm Park ferry terminal: Before you jump on the CityCat, drop into the Brisbane Powerhouse (119 Lamington Street), a 1920s power station-turned-arts centre where there are often exhibitions and markets as well as live performances.

SYDNEY CityCat from South Bank to Q St Lucia ferry terminal: Set the phone to camera: your ferry’s going to travel under the Go Between Bridge. Hopefully you can figure out how to listen to “Streets of Your Town” at the same time. You’ll be disembarking at the ferry terminal for the University of Queensland, where The Go-Betweens’ Robert Forster and Grant McLennan first met.

BEST TIMES TO VISIT BRISBANE BIGSOUND Festival and Conference (September 4-7); Brisbane Festival (September 8-29); Valley Fiesta (October); Listen Out (October 2018); Island Vibe (October 25-28)

Sydney has seen music venues fall foul of noise complaints from developers and the final nail in the coffin came in 2014, when NSW Premier Mike Baird introduced alcohol restrictions dubbed “the lockout laws”, which turned entertainment zones into ghost towns.

It takes determination to find a landmark that hasn’t been turned into an apartment block… but we’ve managed it.

Cab from airport to 118-132 Enmore Road, Enmore: The Enmore Theatre was built in 1908, later given an Art Deco facade in 1920, and is the longest-operational music venue in the state. Pause for a photo beneath the “coming soon” lights and download The Whitlams’ “God Drinks at the Sando” for your walk to King Street.

Walk to 387 King Street, Newtown: The 90s never died in Newtown, but the Sandringham Hotel did. Once the heartbeat of the inner-west music scene, its Art Deco interior has been transformed into a den of putt-putt, courtesy of the Holey Moley Golf Club. From here, head to Repressed Records at 413 King Street and buy some vinyl from local heroes Royal Headache.

Incidentally, a few clips have been filmed on King Street, including Coldplay’s ‘A Sky Full of Stars’ and ‘King Street’ by John Kennedy’s Love Gone Wrong. ê

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MUSIC WALKING TOURS

TEX PERKINS USED TO SQUAT IN ARTSPACE SYDNEY

“Coldplay filmed a video in Sydney’s Newtown“ BEST TIMES TO VISIT SYDNEY Vivid Sydney (May 25-June 26); Surry Hills Festival (September);Australian Music Week (November 7-11); Newtown Festival (November 11); Electronic Music Conference (November 12-14); Sydney Festival (January 2019)

370 bus to Glebe Point Road, Glebe: Hoodoo Gurus filmed some of their 1983 video to “My Girl” at Wentworth Park’s greyhound racing track.

370 bus to 2-6 City Road, Chippendale: A rough-and-ready music venue for 90 years off and on, the Lansdowne Hotel is back in action. Have a schooner, then turn the corner onto Broadway and walk a minute to the Mountain Street traffic lights. Here, Aboriginal dancer Joelene King scrubbed the road in David Bowie’s 1983 “Let’s Dance” video.

Walk to 115 Regent Street, Chippendale: Drop into the Lord Gladstone to admire the Sticky Fingers stained-glass window, then go to 453 Elizabeth Street, Surry Hills. Here stands the Strawberry Hills Hotel. The bandroom is gone, but it played host to Paul Kelly, the Hoodoo Gurus and the Beasts of Bourbon.

Train from Central to Kings Cross: Squint hard and you could be back in 1984, the year Cold Chisel filmed their “Saturday Night” clip.

Members of the band mooched down the red-light district of Darlinghurst Road. Then seek out Candys Apartment, at 22 Bayswater Road. It was once known as Kardomah (or sometimes, “dark coma”), and it played host to AC/DC and INXS. Walk to 43-51 Cowper Wharf Roadway, Woolloomooloo: The Gunnery is now home to Artspace Sydney, but in the late-80s it was an art squat, home to Tex Perkins and others.

Walk down Crown Street towards Oxford Street: Download Paul Kelly’s “Darling it Hurts”, because we’re about to hit Darlinghurst. Radio Birdman opened their own bandroom, The Funhouse, above the Oxford Tavern in Taylor Square. It’s now the Oxford Hotel (134 Oxford Street), so it’s still fraternisable. You can also download a walking tour of this area, featuring members of Radio Birdman, Mental as Anything and the Missing Links, from cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au.

373 bus to 253 Coogee Bay Road: Selina’s bandroom in the Coogee Bay Hotel played host to everyone from Crowded House to Nirvana. It relaunched in 2016, and Midnight Oil played there last year as a nostalgic warm-up for their national tour.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane; tigerair.com.au

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THE McCLYMONTS FEATURING EARL DIBBLES JR

(USA)

GRANGER SMITH

30 YEARS OF PRIDE A TRIBUTE TO JAMES BLUNDELL

SUZANNE VEGA AMBER LAWRENCE ADAM HARVEY - O’SHEA (USA)

(USA)

LILLIE MAE - BILL CHAMBERS - JOSHUA HEDLEY

CATHERINE BRITT & THE COLD COLD HEARTS

BENNETT, BOWTELL & URQUHART

TROY KEMP - KIRSTY LEE AKERS - CASEY BARNES

ASHLEIGH DALLAS - DAVIDSON BROTHERS - JASMINE RAE MATT CORNELL - THE WEEPING WILLOWS - COL FINLEY TRAVELLIN’ STILL - THE SONGS OF SLIM DUSTY WITH PETE DENAHY & THE TRAVELLING COUNTRY BAND

THE HILLBILLY GOATS - HURRICANE FALL - DOUG BRUCE AND MORE

July 27 - 29, 2018 GROUNDWATERCMF.COM

White nights Camping in The Man from Snowy River country with two young boys is a more challenging take on the annual snow trip. But, with a bumper snowfall and new-found fun, Paul Chai watches his kids fall hard for the white stuff.

PHOTO MOUNT BULLER

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MOUNT STIRLING

I

love the snow, but I normally love it from the comfort of a ski lodge, with a roaring hot fire and a freezing cold beer. I might not love it so much when I’m under canvas, but I am about to find out. This year, I’m taking my two young sons snow camping on the slopes of Mount Stirling in Victoria.

It’s a bumper year for the white stuff with chunky flakes falling on us as we drive up to the base of the mountains and a waist-deep covering of snow off the main trails. This is the Australian ski season at its most magical, a European-style winter just three hours from the centre of Melbourne.

The kids are so excited they are hanging out the window catching snowflakes on their tongues as we pull into the carpark of Mount Stirling, a short walk to the wooden hut and cafe at Telephone Box Junction. Stirling is Mount Buller’s wilder cousin; there are no ski lifts, groomed runs or hot chocolates halfway up the mountain; just ski-in and ski-out accommodation in the Alpine tented camp and a handful of refuge huts. This is where they filmed The Man from Snowy River, and while we might not be chasing wild brumbies through the gums, we are going to be left to

“This is the Australian ski season at its most magical“ THE AUTHOR AND HIS KIDS AFTER MASTERING THE ART OF NOT FALLING OVER

our devices for two nights in the Australian Alps. Well, sort of.

Craig Jones of Stirling Experience is looking after us, and we meet at the equipment hire and get measured up for our trip into camp. When it comes to snow skills, I’m a moderately good downhill skier and my kids – Dashiell, 10, and Rafferty, 8 – are whizzes at creating snow angels, so we opt to snow shoe our way to the tent rather than tackle cross-country skis.

How far can enthusiasm carry kids? I’m hoping it can keep them bouncing along on a two-hour, four-kilometre walk to our camp with packs on all our backs.

Suited and booted, we start our walk with the boys shooting off ahead of me, two energy-packed hares racing the old snow-shoe-shuffling tortoise. ê

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Tour Inclusions: ● Melbourne - Mt Buller return transfer ● Resort entry fee ● FREE sightseeing Northside Express lift ticket (worth $30!)

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Enjoy the breathtaking views while enjoying a scenic chairlift ride on the Northside Express, build a snow man and have a snow ball fight or toboggan down the designated toboggan areas at Mt Buller. The snow play fun package is perfect for the sightseer, includes clothing (jacket & pants), toboggan hire and a FREE Northside Express scenic chairlift ride.

Tour Inclusions: ● Melbourne - Mt Buller return transfer ● Resort entry fee ● FREE sightseeing Northside Express lift ticket (worth $30!) ● Toboggan and clothing (jacket & pants) rental

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Tour Inclusions:

● Resort entry fee Tour Inclusions: ● Melbourne - Mt Buller return transfer ● 1 hour first timer lesson ● Ski/Snowboard premium rental package (clothing not included) ● Unlimited use of 4 chair lifts (Northside Express, Happy Feet Carpet, Bonza & Gliders Carpet)

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MOUNT STIRLING

Race to the top The trek up is beautiful, even if the palette is monochrome. The spindly limbs of the trees are iced with freshly fallen snow hiding much of the greenery. The path winds slowly upwards and the tortoise slowly catches up to the hares as they throw the odd snow shoe and bat their eyelids at me for another of the mini-chocolate bars I’m using as carrots to get them to the top. But mostly it’s the snow that enchants them: crunching through it, spotting rabbit tracks in it, and, yes, throwing it at each other. And me.

Halfway up, we’re glad to see a hut with an open fire blazing, set by Craig as a place to rest. While we warm our hands Craig whizzes up to us on his ski-doo and takes our packs, since we’re not making good enough time and night isn’t far away. It’s just as well, as the final 40 minutes of the Stirling Trail are steep, but we finally see camp and the kids celebrate by diving into the untouched banks of snow.

They build a fort, too, while I find our bags kindly dropped in the tent by Craig – second from the end on a flat stretch of snow called the Cricket Pitch. The tents are set on an insulated, wooden platform, but you wouldn’t know it today as they are two-thirds covered in snow, the tops peaking out like some buried

YOU CAN TAKE YOUR OWN TENT AND CAMP AT MOUNT STIRLING, TOO

canvas relic. There is a vestibule to store equipment and inside are four bunk beds that I make quickly while there’s still weak light. In an hour or so, the only light will be from our head torches – and the stars.

Slowly, a large group of fellow campers tramps into camp. We greet each other and get acquainted with the surroundings like a winter edition of I’m a Celebrity … Get Me out of Here!, without the (sometimes dubious) fame. There are seven tents and a central teepee-style communal area that has a small pot-bellied stove in the centre and a circle of chairs surrounding it. On the opposite side of the site is a basic kitchen and toilet block. Gums ring the campsite and there’s a sheer drop to the north with views of the neighbouring alps.

As the sun sets, I call the boys to the tent for a set of dry clothes, and then I heat up dinner. We have opted to have our meals provided by Craig and cooked by his wife ê

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Alpine round-up MOUNT BULLER

FALLS CREEK

The new Snowfactory at Buller doesn’t rely on ambient temperature, so it can make snow a lot earlier and later in the season. We had a tour of the incredible machine you can see halfway up Bourke Street. It’s an impressive operation that guarantees snow along these slopes, making it a great spot for early bookings. mtbuller.com.au

With loads of ski-in, ski-out accommodation and great runs, Falls Creek is also a great family destination with kids’ snowmobiles, tobogganing and a nightly fireworks spectacular. fallscreek.com.au

MOUNT HOTHAM Hotham is a great place for boarders with three terrain parks as well as the Dinner Plain Tube Park for some fun family tubing. Kids must be four years or older and must be at least 100cm tall to ride the tubes. mthotham.com.au

FORGET ABOUT LEARNING TO CROSS COUNTRY SKI... LOOK WHAT WE BUILT

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THREDBO The NSW resort of Thredbo has an intimate alpine village and plenty of great runs, but you can also take a Toyota Mountain Tour where a guide will take you on a free two-hour tour of the mountain terrain as well imparting some local tips to newbies. thredbo.com.au

PERISHER The country’s largest resort is ready to open its doors on June 9 with a four-day party of live music, with over 35 artists singing in the start of the season. This resort also offers the Ski Tube, a Swiss-designed rack rail to ferry skiers to the resort. perisher.com.au

Barb. It’s a good call; the smell of a killer curry and roti bread has the other campers jealous and we learn they are a school group up on a weekend of outdoor ed.

The pot-bellied stove becomes the social centre for obvious heat-generating reasons and we listen in on the school group’s lessons and meet another group of older travellers just stopping for the night on their way to the summit. Then it’s off to our camp beds where we fall asleep to the sound of antechinuses – small pointy-nosed alpine mice – scratching around outside our tent.

In the morning, the snow has been replaced by brilliant sunshine just in time for our cross-country ski lesson. Our instructor, Siim, teaches us the basics of cross country but the boys are far more interested in his snowmanbuilding classes. Turns out that cartoons are right: snowballs do increase in mass as they roll down hill, so Siim starts up high and rolls down a ball until it’s about four feet in diameter (and that’s just the base). By the time we finish we have a snowman that stands a whole head taller than me, and the boys have a new snow hero in Siim.

The rest of the day is spent playing in the snow and practising our cross-country moves before settling down to Barb’s dinner of spaghetti bolognaise. ê

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MOUNT STIRLING

“This is an unfiltered look at how harsh and alluring the alpine region can be”

Mountain swap The Stirling Experience is not glamping. Even with Barb’s cooked meals, it’s a hard slog at times, with the odd midnight run to the teepee for extra blankets to heap on top of your alpinestrength sleeping bags. But you really appreciate the beauty of the snow devoid of lifts, shops and hotels. And at night, the brilliant white stars and the misty smudge of the Milky Way are worth the two-hour snow shoe alone. This is an unfiltered look at how harsh and alluring the alpine region is, and it’s an experience I

would recommend. Far from missing screens or hot water, the boys rate their snow camping experience as one of their best stays ever (but they didn’t do much of the packing or cooking).

That said, I was very happy to see my piping hot shower in the Black Forest Apartments on Mount Buller when we swap mountains the following day. We spend the afternoon downhill skiing then heat up frozen pizza and sit around the fire. For the first time in a long time, I go to bed at the same time as the kids.

Our last day on the mountain I organise a private lesson for the boys, who are not yet turning on their skis and can be a bit dangerous, so I’m shocked that just one hour later, they’re able to do full runs of Bourke Street without falling (too often).

The sun is up again and the mountain is covered with fresh snow, but I spend the day doing the ABOM Express more times than I care to count. There’s a whole mountain of trails beckoning, but my two newly minted skiers are young-puppy excited again, begging me to ski with them until the final lift.

They may not have been my most challenging runs but this day of ABOM skiing is some of my most rewarding, watching my two boys develop the same love of the white stuff I had when I first learned to ski.

For more information visit mtbuller.com.au and stirlingexperience.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne and Canberra; tigerair.com.au

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$36 $22

ROUTE MAP

Where to next?

Tigerair Australia serves 13 destinations right across the country

tigerair bases

darwin

cairns townsville whitsunday coast

brisbane gold coast coffs harbour perth

sydney canberra (act)

adelaide

FOR AN UP-TO-THE-MINUTE LIST OF OUR DESTINATIONS, VISIT TIGERAIR.COM.AU

melbourne (tullamarine) hobart

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TIGERAIR NEWS

Tigerair launches a host of new products From new slimline seats to a revamped menu Tigerair is making it easier to fly

F

rom this month the airline’s fleet of Boeing 737 aircraft feature new state-of-the-art slimline leather seats, providing an enhanced customer experience with adjustable headrests, additional storage pockets and built in tablet/phone holders on the back of the seat.

The installation of the new seats allows the airline to add six additional seats in the cabin without compromising crew and customer space for comfort.

At the same time, it allows more lowfare seats for customers during peak periods and improving the economics of these aircraft that can be passed onto customers in the form of lower fares.

In addition to the new seating on all planes, the airline has launched its new winter Tigerbites menu, packed full of

variety and flavours to suit every taste and budget. As always, the inflight menu caters for a broad range of dietary preferences including vegetarian, nut free and gluten free.

Popular year-round favourites remain like the all-day bacon and egg roll, savoury pack, fancy chicken sanga, popcorn chicken and chips and the posh ham and cheese toastie.

New menu items include the hot mac and cheese bake for savoury fans, the sweet cinnabun snack to curb hunger pangs and featuring the introduction of an espresso martini in the beverages section. Customers can also pre-order from the convenience of the website with an extended menu offering (including the popular Thai-grr green curry and butter

chicken meals), in doing so having the added benefit of being served onboard first.

Tigerair Australia commercial director, Andrew Maister, says the airline is continually looking at ways to enhance the customer experience and that these announcements provide a tremendous boost in that area.

“These products complement each other really well, enabling our customers to enjoy a meal/drink and superior entertainment product inflight more comfortably than ever before.”

Happy birthday Melbourne Storm Tigerair sponsoring the Storm again in 2018 Melbourne Storm are celebrating 20 years of proud history throughout the 2018 season.

The reigning NRL Premiers have enjoyed a remarkable run of success over the past two decades, winning five Grand Finals and missing the finals just once since 2002.

Tigerair is proud to partner with one of Australia’s most successful sporting teams and looking forward to both organisations continuing to share success together into the future.

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E S T. 1 9 9 9

@madeinearthofficial

@madeinearthofďŹ cial

Connect with Nature™

New Zealand DISCOVER YOURS AT: David Jones and selected Priceline, Chemist Warehouse, Myer, National Pharmacies, Malouf Pharmacies, Great Earth, independent pharmacies and health stores nationwide.

THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

School Holidays

From fun in the sun to wild animal encounters there is plenty to do on the school holidays on the Tigerair network

BY CONNOR MCLEOD

Animals

IMAGE VISITCANBERRA

National Zoo and Aquarium More than just a zoo, or a hotel, the National Zoo’s Jamala Lodge is an immersive experience taking you behind the scenes of the zoo, and allow you to spend the night next to bears and lions, or feed giraffe’s from the deck of your bungalow. The zoo was named as one of the best animal attractions

by Holidays With Kids in 2017 and you can understand why. Getting afterhours access to a zoo of this calibre is a treat for kids both big and little.

Canberra nationalzoo.com.au

The Aquarium of Western Australia AQWA is offering kids (and a parent/guardian) the chance to have a shark sleepover as part of their birthday celebrations. On April 13, the shark sleepover will give kids a nighttime tour of the aquarium with an ocean guide, a movie screening and a night’s sleep underneath three million litres of waters full of sharks. Only for the brave (and for 7-14-year-olds).

Perth aqwa.com.au

Melbourne Zoo The Melbourne Zoo has welcomed baby snow leopards to its family just in time for the new Carnivores Trail, which opened late last year. See the revamped African lion exhibit, visit the Sumatran tiger in a brand new enclosure and get up close – but not too close – with our very own Tassie devil.

Melbourne zoo.org.au

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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S C H O O L H O L I D A Y S

THE SPOT

Phillip Island, Victoria

I

like to think that the Little Penguins of Phillip Island turn up each night for the Human Parade, watching the strange ritual of thousands of people filing out to the bench seating before returning along the wooden pathway, much to the bemusement of these sweet little creatures.

But we persuade ourselves that we are watching them as they toddle in from the beach in social groups after a long day’s fishing. It’s a Melbourne institution that you think you have tired of until the first little fella totters in from the beach. The Penguin

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Parade has a great new underground viewing facility too, which brings you eye level with the penguins behind a glass shield with a private guide to talk you through the event.

The best way to see the island this holidays is with the Phillip Island Nature Parks 4 Parks Pass that bundles up the penguins with the Antarctic Journey – an immersive video journey through the icy wonderland where kids can get interactive with whales and penguins on a huge screen, visit a booth blasting out polar temperatures and

learn about smart seafood choices in a hands-on display.

The park pass also takes in the Koala Park, where you can wander wooden duckboards through a natural setting to spot koalas and experience the bucolic farm life at Churchill Farm. Stop for lunch at the Rusty Water Brewery and Restaurant where you can have a Koala Pale Ale and fish and chips, and the kids have a plate of Gippsland ice cream.

Phillip Island celebrates its 150th year in 2018, so it’s a great time to take the family back to this nature hot spot. penguins.org.au

Ten YEARS OF VIVID SYDNEY 25 May – 16 June 2018 It’s Lights ON! For Vivid Sydney The multi-award winning Winter festival attracted 2.33 million people in 2017, cementing its position as the largest event of its kind in the world. In 2018 Vivid Sydney will celebrate its 10-year anniversary with an inspiring new program of amazing light art, cuttingedge music performances, creative talks, workshops and showcases.

The creative heart of Sydney will be illuminated from 6pm-11pm every night with the Vivid Light program of projections, light sculptures and installations. Each one is designed to engage the senses and emotions with interactive and immersive light experiences.

Proudly owned, managed and produced by

For melodic vibes, Vivid Music will again showcase a celebration of breakthrough performers and the best in current and future music leaders. 2018 will see over 250 music events held in venues across Sydney.

Meanwhile Vivid Ideas is Australia’s most anticipated global forum for ingenuity and innovation and in 2018 will feature a carefully curated program of over 200 events.

For further information go to vividsydney.com

THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

S C H O O L H O L I D A Y S Fun

BIG4 Adventure Whitsunday Resort The school holidays are jam-packed full of fun at this multi-award winning Airlie Beach resort, with a range of scheduled activities including outdoor movies, animal park feeding, discos and pancakes by the pool. Then there’s the huge waterslide park with 13 different twisting and turning water slides, taking the resort to a whole new level.

Whitsunday big4.com.au

PAW Patrol SEA Patrol at Sea Life Sydney Aquarium This April school holidays, go on an underwater mission with Nickelodeon’s PAW Patrol SEA Patrol at Sea Life Sydney Aquarium, turning little explorers into honorary members of the pup squad. Embark on an underwater voyage guided by your own adventure map, and when you find the PAW Patrol pups throughout the attraction match them to your custom sticker sheet!

Sydney sealifesydneyaquarium.com.au

Port Arthur Historic Site During the school holidays Port Arthur puts on additional free performances three times daily and hands-on activities for the whole family. Kids can make their own Port Arthur peg doll, design and make a convict love token or temporary convict tattoo, or try their hand at the art of letter writing and wax sealing. Families can also play traditional games like quoits or croquet on the lawn.

Location portarthur.org.au

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the tale end

Let your pictures tell a story We want your photos on the Tigerair Australia Instagram feed.

Add the hashtag #tigerairau to your travel snaps and they could appear as part of Tigerair’s social media.

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C A NBE R R A ACT @carolelvin

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PERTH

BR I S B A NE

Western Australia @skyperth

Queensland @hamish.lam

#tigerairau We would love to see your pictures, so use this hashtag when you travel with us!

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Cristiano Ronaldo Š2018 Samsonite IP Holdings S.à r.l. All Rights Reserved. Printed on 01/2018.