Tigertales June - July 2018

tigertales

TAKE ME AWAY

Australia | June – July 2018

NORTHERN NIGHTS ➔ Pixie Weyand runs Brisbane venue The Zoo, just one stop on our big night out in the Queensland capital

SLIP AND SLIDE

W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S

THE NEW NEWCASTLE

Going off-road on Queensland’s Fraser Island

Two different travellers take on Melbourne

The former NSW coal town comes of age

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WELCOME ONBOARD

Tigerair means value, choice and innovation Check out our new winter treats and new slimline seats on our fleet of Boeing 737s

W

elcome onboard and thank you for choosing to fly with Tigerair Australia today.

At Tigerair, we’re focused on offering you value, choice and innovation when you travel. We’re always working to introduce new products to make your Tigerair experience better than ever.

While you’re reading during your flight, why don’t you take a look at our new winter menu? It’s packed full of variety and flavours that will suit every taste and budget. You can enjoy classics like the all-day bacon and egg roll, fancy chicken sanga and popcorn chicken. This winter, you can also enjoy new treats like the hot mac and cheese bake, the sweet cinnibun snack and espresso martinis. When booking,

you can also pre-order an extended range of menu items like our Thai-grr green curry to make sure you’re served first when onboard.

It’s all part of our focus on giving you as much choice as possible when you fly with Tigerair.

Speaking of choice, we’ve recently announced a new partnership with

movies and TV titles on personal devices when flying with us.

If you’re flying on one of our Boeing 737 aircraft today, you may notice our new, state-of-the-art seats. These seats include adjustable headrests, additional storage pockets and built-in holders for tablets and smartphones to make your flight as comfortable as possible. You’ll

“After you arrive at your destination, make sure you visit our website at tigerair.com.au to get more great-value airfares and inspiration for your next trip” Twentieth Century Fox for inflight entertainment content. This means that you’ll soon be able to access a broad range of recently released

see these seats on more Tigerair flights in the future as we transition to an all-Boeing 737 fleet.

After you arrive at your destination, make sure you visit our website at tigerair.com.au to get more great-value airfares and inspiration for your next trip. You can also get real-time updates about your flight status via the “flight status” tab.

We’ll keep enhancing our offering to deliver you value for money and a great experience when you fly with us. I hope you have a great flight with Tigerair today and when you next choose to fly.

Happy travels!

Merren McArthur Tigerair Australia CEO

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CONTENTS

Destination directory Inside this issue… wherever you’re going, we’ve got you covered

THE POINTY END

where we’re going we don’t need roads

ENCOUNTER

d a r w in

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The NT’s best spots for a craft brew Say “bottoms up” in the Top End

WORDS JOSEPHINE AGOSTINOH

T

hey've shouted more rounds than had steak dinners, so it’s safe to say the owners of Darwin's only all-grain craft brewery, One Mile, know just the right places to cool off with a cold one in their home town.

It may be Australia's smallest capital city, but make no mistake: Darwin knows how to party.

And now, during the dry season that lasts from May to October, the festivities are in full swing – and not just on the weekends.

According to well-known locals and the “Directors, Brewers and Drinkers” of One Mile Brewing Company, Bardy Bayram and Stuart Brown, there’s no “quiet” night to hit the town in this Top End city.

“You can party here any night of the week,” says Bardy, who can often be found enjoying a bevvy in one of the 20 venues around town his sweet amber is stocked in, or his own Tasting Bar

in Winnellie, just outside the city. “It’s a young environment and, being a transient place, there are always people who want to have a good time and meet someone new. At this time of year, there’s always something going on.”

Stuart and Bardy, who were drinking buddies years before they joined forces to create One Mile, have seen a huge change in Darwin’s pub and bar scene.

“There are more upmarket choices now, and casual places that offer more than just the usual pub experience,” Bardy says. “People are enjoying IPAs, not just VB or XXXX beers. But it is the tropics, so don’t expect to find high alcohol stouts or porters up here. The lagers and ales are what goes here in the heat.”

While iconic watering holes have been joined by a new breed transplanted straight from a Melbourne laneway, giving this international city a fresh, cosmopolitan mix, the “easygoing” dress ê

A family off-road adventure on Fraser Island delivers natural beauty and a few thrills and spills. Paul Chai goes on his first four-wheel drive holiday.

PHOTOS KINGFISHER BAY RESORT

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BRISBANE

From dusk till dawn

F E AT U R E

brisbane

Brisbane may just be the best night out in Australia.

Matt Shea takes you on an all-nighter in the Queensland capital.

ALL PHOTOS MORGAN ROBERTS

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ocals like to argue about when Brisbane started to change. Many point to the arrival of the Gallery of Modern Art in 2007.

Others reckon it goes as far back as Expo 88.

The truth is, of course, Brisbane was always evolving. Right now, though, it feels like the transformation is running at light speed.

Nuanced legislation and initiatives from state and local governments have led to better developments and a new wave of independent restaurants, cafes, bars and boutiques. Precincts have emerged – Fish Lane, Woolloongabba, Gasworks – while Fortitude Valley is these days considered Australia’s go-to entertainment hub.

“One hundred percent,” Pixie Weyand says.

“Brisbane is changing so fast. It’s really exciting.”

Weyand should know. She’s the owner of The Zoo (711 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley; thezoo.com.au), one of the most storied live performance venues in the country – a former sewing factory turned shrine to music that has welcomed artists as diverse as Bluebottle Kiss, You Am I and the New Pornographers.

ENCOUNTER

perth

52

Fraser Island four-wheel driving trip

A big night out in the Queensland capital

In many ways, Weyand personifies Brisbane’s young, independent spirit. She opened her first venue, a cafe and bar, over the road from The Zoo when she was just 23. She also pioneered FEED MUSIC, an initiative that helps touring musicians eat on a budget.

Weyand took over The Zoo from co-founder Joc Curran on her 26th birthday. In the process, she inserted herself into the frontline of Brisbane’s busy live music community. “I’m not sure I realised the gravity of the situation,” she says, laughing. “It’s been the biggest and hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life.”

The pay-off, of course, was to be able to book some of her favourite bands. The week Weyand took over, British India played a sold-out show. “The Growlers put on an amazing gig in November,” she says. “Ballpark Music are always brilliant, and Jungle Giants had an under-18s show recently, which is something we’re hoping to do more often.”

Weyand is also on the frontline when it comes to Brisbane’s growing pains. Last year’s introduction of controversial ID scanners was ê

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Comedian Joel Creasey takes us on a city tour

27 The former steel town is all grown up

THE POINTY END

NEWCASTLE

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NEWCASTLE

THE POINTY END

C

NEWCAS TLE The iconic steel town is undergoing an immense change. Matt Shea tells you why you need to visit right now.

Tour Perth with comedian Joel Creasey

WORDS JOANNE BROOKFIELD

H

e’s spent time in the African jungle on I’m A Celebrity Get Me Out of Here, he commentated on Eurovision and even ended up on Ramsay Street in fictional Erinsborough. His 100,000 Instagram followers know he’s no stranger to airport lounges, crisscrossing the country for television commitments and live gigs, but when stand-up comedian Joel Creasey has a spare moment in his packed schedule, he heads back home to Perth.

“I’m a proud Perth boy. I love it when people still credit me with living in Perth, even though I’ve

ALL PHOTOS DESTINATION NSW

lived in Melbourne for coming up to eight years,” says Creasey, who grew up in the riverside suburb of Applecross (“gorgeous area”) where his parents still live.

He started stand-up as a teenager. “That was the best thing – it wasn’t like I was starting in the big leagues of Melbourne or Sydney,” he says. However, Creasey points out Perth’s strong comedy pedigree given that performers Judith Lucy, Dave Hughes, Tim Minchin and Claire Hooper all started there as well. “So it was great – a really supportive scene to start in,” the 27-year-old says. ê

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How to beat the winter in Tasmania

Embrace winter in Tasmania

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Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Designer Cynthia Lau Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott

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Advertising National Advertising Manager Stephanie Kavanagh (02) 8188 3668 stephanie@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestar Web

Cover photo Pixie Weyand, photographed at The Zoo, Brisbane

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WORDS PAUL CHAI; PHOTO TOURISM TASMANIA

The new

hris Joannou could live anywhere.

Sydney. Los Angeles. New York.

That’s the way it’s supposed to go, anyway. Small-town boy joins globe-trotting rock band. Settles in the big smoke. Maybe opens an art gallery. Something like that.

Instead, Chris Joannou is hosting a meeting of Newcastle small business owners.

The 38-year-old is best known as the bassist for Silverchair, one of Australia’s most iconic bands of the last 20 years. Right now, though, he’s head down in a deep discussion regarding the future of the small New South Wales city.

You might not have heard, but something special is happening in Newcastle. Once a rigidly blue-collar industrial town, in recent years it has transformed itself into a dynamic pocket city cradling a number of up-and-coming industries: tech start-ups, hospitality, agriculture, education, health and tourism.

“I spent a solid 10 years living away from Newcastle. From a distance, I could see this great groundswell,” Joannou says. “And to be honest, I don’t think Newcastle is even halfway to reaching its potential. It’s changing in front of our eyes.”

It’s not hyperbole. Cranes dot the skyline.

New developments are under way. Car yards, factories and workshops have moved out; restaurants, bars and boutiques are moving in. Perhaps most obvious (and controversial, in its degree of disruption) is the installation of a light rail connection along Hunter Street from Newcastle Interchange to the eastern end of the city.

It’s a stark change from the Newcastle Joannou knew as a kid. Back then it was school, mates and long, lazy days spent knocking around Merewether to the south. “It was a great place to grow up as a kid,” he says.

“You had everything right on your doorstep.”

The other resounding memory Joannou has of his childhood is the 1989 Newcastle earthquake (Silverchair would eventually write a song about the disaster, “Faultline”, in 1995).

Newcastle’s boom is providing the impetus to finally plaster over the few remaining scars of that day, but Joannou reckons the city has been reflecting on the need to change ê

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hose in the more northerly states may not realise this, but it gets cold down south in the winter. And no, Sydney, you don’t know what we’re talking about.

Our most southerly state, Tasmania, has found a solution to this problem. They could have stayed in by the fire with a fine glass of Tassie pinot noir, but instead Tasmania has decided to celebrate the

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Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au

colder weather with naked swims in the river at dawn, pagan fire rituals and forays into the dark arts.

You could say it’s barmy instead of balmy down south as the state celebrates the changing of seasons with a series of festivals, gatherings and pop-up parties all aimed at getting people outdoors.

Here are some of the hottest things to do in a chilly Tassie winter: ê

© 2018 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder.

Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

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THE POINTY END We have your next great travel stor y

m rth ê E brace the e P col nd u do o r a fa s u Ta s w

The coffee capital Take a tour of Canberra’s cafes

st ê Where a r d Coa e Da Gol r w the in ' on s be ee -fr

ê Forget the fun pa r e t rks in and w n a go i an kid m s

? ê Comedian J o e pots l Cr gs e a s kin ey in s ho dr st 49 – 51

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THE POINTY END

T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O

E X HIBI T ION S

S P OR T

M O M A AT N GV With works from Cézanne to Lichtenstein, the winter masterpiece MoMA at NGV: 130 Years of Modern and Contemporary Art will bring over 200 works from New York’s Museum of Modern Art to Melbourne to encourage art lovers out into the cold.

Melbourne, until October 7; ngv.vic.gov.au

TRUE GRIT Get ready Brisbane, Sydney and Perth for True Grit, the military-inspired training course that has events right through winter. This is an obstacle course designed to test stamina as you work your way through 30 obstacles across 10-12 kilometres.

Perth, Brisbane, Sydney, from June to October; truegrit.com.au

CANBERRA G L A S S WO R K S Winter Glass, Canberra Glassworks’ signature event, is on again. The event is spread across the Canberra Glassworks building, the Fitters Workshop and surrounds, and it presents live music, food, gin and loads of glass for sale.

Canberra, June 16; canberraglassworks.com

OP E NING OPEN HOUSE M E LB O U R N E For the 11th year, buildings that usually don’t allow public access will open their doors to public for the Open House Melbourne weekend.

It’s the biggest program ever with 224 buildings opening their doors.

Melbourne, July 28-29; openhousemelbourne.org

ART AR C H I B ALD P R I Z E Australia’s favourite art event, the much-arguedover Archibald Prize for portraits (as well as the Wynne and Sulman drawing prizes), plays right throughout June and July, showcasing the muchloved depictions of the who’s who of Australia.

Sydney, June-July; artgallery.nsw.gov.au

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M E LB O U R N E M AR AT H O N Start your training for the Melbourne Marathon, which returns this October. Punters get a chance to do their final lap around the sacred turf of the Melbourne Cricket Ground; to the cheers of supportive family and friends. Sign up now.

Melbourne, October 14; melbournemarathon. com.au

H O M E O F T H E B OY D S The relationship of the famous Boyd family dynasty with the Harkaway and Narre Warren region is explored in Home of the Boyds: Harkaway and The Grange, a defining new exhibition at Bunjil Place Gallery in Melbourne’s south-east.

Melbourne, until July 29; bunjilplace.com.au

M A N LY G R E E N H O U S E The team behind Sails on Lavender Bay will open Manly Greenhouse, a multi-storey beachfront bar and restaurant, this June long weekend.

Manly Greenhouse will take its name and cues from the free-spirited culture and natural beauty of the coastal suburb.

Sydney, from June 4; manlygreenhouse.com.au

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THE POINTY END

WORDS PAUL CHAI; PHOTO TOURISM TASMANIA

Embrace winter in Tasmania

T

hose in the more northerly states may not realise this, but it gets cold down south in the winter. And no, Sydney, you don’t know what we’re talking about.

Our most southerly state, Tasmania, has found a solution to this problem. They could have stayed in by the fire with a fine glass of Tassie pinot noir, but instead Tasmania has decided to celebrate the

colder weather with naked swims in the river at dawn, pagan fire rituals and forays into the dark arts.

You could say it’s barmy instead of balmy down south as the state celebrates the changing of seasons with a series of festivals, gatherings and pop-up parties all aimed at getting people outdoors.

Here are some of the hottest things to do in a chilly Tassie winter: ê

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THE POINTY END Celebrate the dark Dark Mofo is the big ticket in winter, the first event to draw travellers from the warmer states down to the cooler climes.

Based around the winter solstice this celebration of all things dark and edgy can take many forms, from the Nude Solstice Swim to huge winter feasts in fascinating locales. Highlights of the upcoming program include performances by Tim Minchin, St Vincent and a night of black and extreme metal bands titled Hymns to the Dead.

The whole things kicks off with a prelude weekend of art gallery openings, music and the Dark + Dangerous Thoughts series of discussions.

From June 9; darkmofo.net.au

Surround yourself with art The Bay of Fires Winter Arts Festival is all about the art in the Bay of Fires region, a 50km stretch of the island’s east coast.

At this festival, local makers, artists, performers and sculptors come together and ask travellers to explore the region’s art trail with a series of installations and open days in artists’ studios. A big draw is the art market that has been extended to two days

“Visit Tasmania’s new wave of whisky makers for a winterbanishing glass of the good stuff“

this year – including a twilight market – and it all comes to a head in the Bay of Fires Art Prize announcement with a $20,000 prize for the winning artist.

June 9-11; bayoffireswinterartsfestival.com.au

Keep warm with a wee dram The new wave of Australian whisky-making was started with a chat that Bill Lark – now known as the godfather of Australian whisky – had with his son-in-law. They could not understand why an island that was blessed with peat, clear fresh water and a climate not dissimilar to bonny Scotland was not making its own whisky. The rest is distilling history as archaic licensing laws were overturned and the whisky began to flow. Visit the cellar doors of Lark Distillery,

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Hellyers Road, Sullivan’s Cove and a host of others for a winter-banishing glass of the good stuff. And if you are in Tassie in August, keep an eye out for the happenings around Tasmanian Whisky Week.

August 13-19, larkdistillery.com

Sing the cold away

TASSIE LOVES A GOOD BONFIRE WHEN THE COLDER WEATHER SETS IN

Nothing warms the heart like a good song, which explains the popularity of the Festival of Voices that celebrates the human voice as an instrument in a series of sing-alongs.

Catch one of the choral performances in concert halls, theatres or pop-up spaces.

You can learn to sing at workshops with international guest speakers or take part in the Big Sing, a huge gathering of singers pro and non-pro to raise their voices around a huge bonfire. The festival takes place all over the island, from an east-coast singing session to the finale concert in Hobart.

Sing those winter blues away.

June 29 – July 15; festivalofvoices.com

WASSAILING THE NIGHT AWAY AT THE HUON VALLEY MID-WINTER FESTIVAL

WORDS DEBORAH DICKSON-SMITH

Get your pagan on The Huon Valley Mid-Winter Festival celebrates the changing of the seasons, the history of pagan celebrations around this time, and the fruit after which the Apple Isle is named.

This festival is all about an ancient practice by the name of “wassailing” where it was believed you could scare the bad spirits out of the orchards by having as much raucous fun as you possibly could.

This means dressing up like an extra from The Wicker Man; whacking pans, stick or other noisemakers; and a bonfire (yes, another one!). This pagan party also celebrates the region’s amazing produce, including the cider at Willie Smith’s Apple Shed, where the whole thing is held.

July 13-15; huonvalleymidwinterfest.com.au

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THE POINTY END

Year-round attractions There is more to Tassie than just the winter

SAL AMANCA MARKET Local makers getting together near the Hobart waterfront. salamancamarket.com.au

HENRY JONES ART HOTEL Housed in the former IXL jam factory this historic harbourside stay also has one of the city’s best cocktails bars. thehenryjones.com

FREYCINET NATIONAL PARK Take a walk over the saddle of the Hazard mountain ranges to one of Australia’s most amazing beaches at Wineglass Bay. discovertasmania.com.au

PORT ARTHUR HISTORIC SITE Incredible convict history, brandnew visitors’ centre and just a beautiful place to spend the day. portarthur.org.au

MONA: MUSEUM OF OLD AND NEW ART

Celebrate an even colder place At the Australian Antarctic festival in Hobart people get together to pay homage to one of the coldest regions on the planet.

Tasmania is virtually a near neighbour to our nearest Antarctic base and this unique proximity brings a close relationship with the far south. Did you know there are more Antarctic scientists in Hobart than in any other city in the world? For them, a weekend in the Tassie capital is like taking a summer holiday. This is the gathering point for our Antarctic operations and the festival aims to shine a light on the importance of the region and our work there.

August 2-5; antarcticfestival.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Hobart from Melbourne and the Gold Coast tigerair.com.au

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“Hobart is home to a huge number of Antarctic scientists“

This cutting-edge museum has drawn visitors from all over to the capital, and now it has a new wing dedicated to light in art. mona.net.au

TASSIE WHISK Y ON THE BE ACH? A GOOD WAY TO CELEBR ATE THE COLD

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THE POINTY END

Why I live in

mel bour ne Author and former refugee Hung Le has written a book about his experiences fleeing the Vietnam War. He talks about the book and about why he loves his home town of Melbourne.

Tell us about your book?

The Crappiest Refugee is a memoir of me fluking my way through life. Growing up in Australia in the 70s and 80s during the great Vietnamese exodus, I realised there are two types of refugee: the happy ones, who breeze through school and university through hard work and dedication, get good jobs and start families, and

become grouse members of society … and there’s me, one of the crappy ones. An Asian who’s terrible at maths, can’t work computers and, worst of all, can’t even play the violin in tune. It’s the story of how I lived off my potential as a violinist and travelled the world as a comedian, making terrible but hilarious mistakes along the way.

What makes Melbourne a great place to live?

I have figured out why Melbourne’s the world’s most liveable city: it’s because of our climate. You see, scientists reckon that there’ll soon be another Ice Age that will clash with global warming and create one great, big, normal Melbourne day. And the only people who will survive will be Melbourne people.

The rest of the world will be thinking, ”What’s happening? Why is it raining and snowing and hailing and there’s a bush fire?” Melbourne people will just be going, ‘Because it’s Tuesday.’

Where are the best places to get a good meal or drink?

Mario’s in Fitzroy (303 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy; marioscafe.com.au) is where I go for my carbonara fix.

It’s been an institution for decades for us comedians because the Comedy Festival started

in Fitzroy and Mario’s is where we all have our meetings and sort our lives out. Thanh Ha 2 in Victoria Street, North Richmond, is where I go for my Vietnamese banh cuon (Northern Vietnamese pork dish). Such a taste sensation. When in Preston, I hit Pho Hung (447 High Street, Preston) for the special beef pho or special broken rice.

My favourite pub is the Labour In Vain Hotel (Brunswick Street, Fitzroy; labourinvain.com.au). I actually have a plaque on the bar.

Where can you go after a show?

After a show on the weekend, I’d definitely hit The Night Cat (137-141 Johnston Street, Fitzroy; thenightcat.com.au) for a funky time. There are always great bands, beautiful decor, and cheap drinks – and Salsa Sundays go off.

What’s the one thing a visitor must do?

When I have friends from overseas, I always take them for a drive along the Great Ocean Road, just up to Lorne and back. It blows their minds.

Tell us something only a local would know…

When I have a meeting with somebody I don’t yet know, I always take them to Ponyfish Island (ponyfish.com.au), at Southbank. It’s a bar in the middle of the Yarra River. I buy us each an ice-cold longneck bottle of Melbourne Bitter.

When the sun is shining and the view is spectacular, the meeting starts off on the right foot, every time.

READ HUNG LE Hung Le’s book The Crappiest Refugee is out now through Affirm Press. For more information, visit affirmpress.com.au

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THE POINTY END

Go kid-free on the GC

W

ith its beautiful beaches and laid-back holiday vibe, the Gold Coast has always been a favourite for family holidays – but not everyone arrives with a bucket and spade.

Couples have discovered the GC also offers the ultimate romantic escape. It really is beautiful one day and perfect the next when you’re here with someone special.

DAY ONE

WORDS TIANA TEMPLEMAN

11am – Adrenaline rush Get your heart racing with an adrenaline-packed hour spent zipping around sand bars and zooming past pelicans with Jetboat Extreme (30 Ferny Avenue, Surfers Paradise; jetboatextreme.com.au).

Hang on tight as the driver cuts across the wake from larger boats, teasing the wheel left and right so the jetboat dances across the waves. There’s

time for a relaxing cruise past multi-million dollar mansions on the way back to the jetty.

1pm – A “seaductive” lunch Walk from the jetty to Seaduction Restaurant + Bar (Level 2, 8 The Esplanade, Surfers Paradise; seaduction.com.au) for elegant mod-Oz with a French twist and ocean views. If your love of good food is larger than your budget, the $45 two-course lunch special (which includes a glass of wine) is a steal.

3pm – Check in kid-free Fresh from a multi-million refurbishment, The Star Grand (Broadbeach Island, Broadbeach; thestargoldcoast.com.au) offers a variety of accommodation options, including plush rooms with access to an adults-only executive lounge. ê

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THE POINTY END

It’s part of The Star Gold Coast, an interactive resort with award-winning restaurants, multiple bars, stage shows and concerts, plus the non-stop action of a 24-hour casino. Not kid-friendly? You bet!

5pm – Complimentary drinks Relax with a complimentary glass of wine (or two) at the hotel’s Executive Lounge, which offers complimentary drinks and canapes to club room guests between 5pm-7pm.

7pm – Get social Walk to Social Eating House (3 Oracle Boulevard, Broadbeach; socialeatinghouse.com.au), which lives up to its name with a share plate menu and lively atmosphere. Start with spiced soft shell crab with green mango, Asian herbs and chilli caramel or confit pork belly with rich plum sauce and a crackling crumbed prawn, and let the good times roll.

DAY TWO 10am – Head up the mountain Mount Tamborine is an easy 40-minute drive from the Gold Coast but feels like a world away.

Galleries and restaurants line the picturesque main street known as Gallery Walk, and Queensland’s oldest national park, Tamborine National Park, offer stunning scenery and impressive views of the Pacific Ocean and Gold Coast. Stroll through the rainforest canopy on an elevated walkway at the Tamborine Rainforest Skywalk, which has a 30-metre high cantilever bridge soaring above the rainforest, or admire the gorge, waterfalls and rock pools on a walk to Cedar Creek Falls.

1pm – Picnic time ZIP AROUND THE GOLD COAST KID-FREE FOR A DIFFERENT HOLIDAY

Pick up some local produce for a picnic then head off to sample locally brewed beer at Fortitude Brewing Co. and wine at Mason Wines or Witches Falls Winery, which has a cellar door staffed by enthusiasts who know their stuff. Ask for a picnic rug at Witches Falls so you can taste the wines outside in the fresh, mountain air and enjoy a leisurely lunch. For something a little different, Tamborine Mountain Distillery sells schnapps, vodka, and liqueurs with flavours such as guava and lime, lavender or lychee and elderflower.

5pm – Sunset stroll Stop for a romantic walk along the beach on the way back from Mount Tamborine. Some of the best stretches of sand for strolling include Surfers Paradise (for its fabulous people-watching), Broadbeach and Coolangatta Beach. It takes around 20 minutes to walk from Coolangatta to Rainbow Bay and up to Point Danger, with its famous lighthouse and spectacular sunset views.

7:30pm – Find your culinary Zen With a nod to molecular gastronomy, Kiyomi (Broadbeach Island, Broadbeach; thestargoldcoast.com.au) is a must for those who appreciate fine Japanese cuisine and the theatre of fine dining. Begin your night at the bar with a Japanese-inspired cocktail, sake or top-shelf whisky, before moving to a private booth for dinner. The Kiyomi sashimi sampler, which arrives in a dramatic cloud of dry ice, is almost too pretty to eat. One of the degustation menus, featuring

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dishes such as Wagyu 7+ tenderloin with smoked eel and pork robata with wasabi apple sauce, is ideal for couples who can’t decide what to order.

DAY THREE 7:20am – Reach for the sky Swap the beach for the clouds on Australia’s highest external building walk atop the iconic Gold Coast skyscraper Q1 (Cnr Surfers Paradise Boulevard and Hamilton Avenue, Surfers Paradise; skypoint.com.au). After a safety briefing you’ll be clipped to a specially designed harness system and taken outside to marvel at the jaw-dropping ocean view. Daredevils can walk to the edge of the climb and check out the sheer 270-metre drop. Your early morning adventure finishes with a hot buffet breakfast on the SkyPoint Observation Deck.

12pm – Enjoy a refreshing brew Grab a seat on the deck at one of the Gold Coast’s surf lifesaving clubs where you can enjoy a cold beer, watch swimmers take on the waves and see seagulls strut their stuff. Away from the beach, boutique beer lovers can visit the Burleigh Brewery Company (2 Ern Harley Drive, Burleigh Heads; burleighbrewing.com.au) and try award-winning brews including the infamous My Wife’s Bitter. To sample more Burleigh beers, head to Black Hops Brewery (15 Gardenia Grove, Burleigh Heads; blackhops.com.au), which has eight beers on tap.

“Swap the beach for the clouds on Australia’s highest external building walk at Q1” GET BACK TO NATURE IN TAMBORINE NATIONAL PARK

Make an afternoon of it at the weekly Black Hops Sunday Session from 12pm to 6pm, which has a great vibe and features tasty eats.

3pm – Shop till you drop Get your retail on at Pacific Fair (Hooker Boulevard, Broadbeach; pacificfair.com.au) where over 400 shops, ranging from department stores to highend designer boutiques like Prada and Gucci, are set amongst a tropical landscape. A free Pacific Fair Visitor Privileges Pass includes offers from over 50 stores. The Visitors Lounge, with complimentary chilled water and fresh fruit, free Wi-Fi and restrooms with showers, is a great spot to freshen up before the flight home.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to the Gold Coast from Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

STRAIGHT TO THE POOL ROOM FIND ALL THE KITSCH AND QUIRKY THINGS IN...

Sydney

1 The Big Merino

WORDS PAUL CHAI IMAGES TRENT VAN DER JAGT

In Goulburn, a few hours south of Sydney, is one of the Big Things that honours our long history of riding on the sheep’s back. But at the Big Merino – whose name is actually “Rambo” – you can do more than that. You can climb up inside the giant ram and make your way into his hollow head.

Stand on tiptoes and you can even stare out of Rambo’s eyes before making your way back to exit through the gift shop. The shop itself specialises in woollen gifts, and Australian Wool has a permanent exhibition of the 200-year history of wool farming in Australia. The Big Merino was built in 1985 in the heart of wool country and stands at 15.2 metres high and 18 metres long.

Rambo was in fact a real merino that was the inspiration for the big fella. Rambo was a local stud ram who lived his life at a farm called Bullamalita. bigmerino.com.au

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2

2 Sydney clock plate So you’ll never be late for dinner again. $14.99, Australia the Gift; Shop G16, Gateway Building, 1 Macquarie Place, Sydney

3 Bottle opener Sydney icons 3

All the Sydney icons on one practical device. $9.99, Taste of Australia, Shop 12, The Rocks Centre, The Rocks

4 Sydney oven mitt Don’t burn yourself while reheating your meat pies in the oven. $5, Australia the Gift; Shop G16, Gateway Building, 1 Macquarie Place, Sydney

5 Wetsuit stubby holder

4 5

How did Rager the party fish get around Sydney's lockout laws? $5, Australia the Gift; Shop G16, Gateway Building, 1 Macquarie Place, Sydney

6 Meat pie lip balm But don't worry, it tastes like vanilla, because that is somehow better. $4.95, Taste of Australia, Shop 12, The Rocks Centre, The Rocks,

7 Business card holder Add some excitement to your work desk with this OTT creation. $14.95, Gifts at the Rocks, The Rocks Centre, The Rocks

6

GOT SOME KITSCH KIT? We are looking to celebrate the odd and the offbeat when it comes to souvenirs. Send us any hot kitsch tips to tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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When you visit Perth Zoo, you’re helping save animals in the wild.

THE POINTY END

Tour Perth with comedian Joel Creasey

WORDS JOANNE BROOKFIELD

H

e’s spent time in the African jungle on I’m A Celebrity Get Me Out of Here, he commentated on Eurovision and even ended up on Ramsay Street in fictional Erinsborough. His 100,000 Instagram followers know he’s no stranger to airport lounges, crisscrossing the country for television commitments and live gigs, but when stand-up comedian Joel Creasey has a spare moment in his packed schedule, he heads back home to Perth.

“I’m a proud Perth boy. I love it when people still credit me with living in Perth, even though I’ve

lived in Melbourne for coming up to eight years,” says Creasey, who grew up in the riverside suburb of Applecross (“gorgeous area”) where his parents still live.

He started stand-up as a teenager. “That was the best thing – it wasn’t like I was starting in the big leagues of Melbourne or Sydney,” he says. However, Creasey points out Perth’s strong comedy pedigree given that performers Judith Lucy, Dave Hughes, Tim Minchin and Claire Hooper all started there as well. “So it was great – a really supportive scene to start in,” the 27-year-old says. ê

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THE POINTY END SEE JOEL LIVE Joel Creasey is taking his new show to the Astor Theatre in Perth from June 6. For more information visit joelcreasey.com.au or follow him on Instagram @joelcreasey

While the thought of public speaking terrifies many, Creasey attributes his early confidence to his parents, who met working as extras on the set of Star Wars. “My parents have been so supportive, to the point that it’s actually kind of irritating. I’ve had to say to them, ‘No, you can't come to every gig!’” But it’s because they’re performers, he says, that they understand and never pressured him into finding another job.

“It’s been the same all my life. When I was in grade four and I told my dad I didn’t want to play football anymore because I didn’t like the team colours he was like, ‘Absolutely, they don't go with your eyes. Let’s put you in the drama program,’” he says.

As a result, he was only 19 when he made his Melbourne International Comedy Festival debut in 2010, with a show called Slumber Party, which scored him a Best Newcomer nomination and a manager. “I moved the next week,” he says.

Joel’s top three takes on a day of dining COFFEE

C HE E K Y B O Y E S P R E S S O “The best coffee in Perth, by far, is called Cheeky Boy and it’s in Applecross where I grew up. It’s awesome. Really, really good food and great coffee. I go there every time I’m home.”

31F Ardross Street, Applecross; cheekyboyespresso.com.au

BRUNCH

BIB & T UC K E R “I love Bib & Tucker,” says Joel, pointing out it’s co-owned by Olympic medallist and winner of Celebrity

JOEL CREASEY'S SPIRITUAL HOME OF PERTH

MasterChef Australia Eamon Sullivan.

“It’s on the beach, it’s great for breakfast or brunch and, if he’s there, he’s very handsome to look at.”

18 Leighton Beach Boulevard, North Fremantle; bibandtucker.net.au

DINNER

P E T I T ION K I T C HE N “There’s a new place open in the city for dinner called Petition Kitchen.

They do an amazing lamb shoulder, very Melbourne-esque. It’s very cool. “ Cnr St Georges Terrace & Barrack Street, Perth; petitionperth.com

It’s been a steady rise ever since. However, it wasn’t until his acid-tongued, tell-all antics and celebrity obsessions put him on the late Joan Rivers’ radar that he feels he got his big break, opening for her in New York. “When I came back from that, I was a changed man,” he says, adding that 2014 became a dream year. “I did every panel show in the country.”

He’s back on TV now as team captain of Network Ten’s new Show Me The Movie! and touring the country with his latest stand-up show, Blonde Bombshell. “I’ve got all the stories that my publisher was like, ‘Joel, you can't put that in your book!’” he says of his memoir Thirsty. The show will also include “all the silly shit I’ve got up to in the past year, being backstage at the Logies, the ARIAs, and all the tales I’ve gotten up to on the road. The only problem writing this new show is that I’ve been in a relationship for the past year and being happy and in a relationship is nowhere near as funny as being depressed, drunk and single, so I’m having to make the best of that I can.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Perth from Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

THE FEAST 1 0F 2

PRIMARY FLAVOUR, SECONDARY CUTS Why you should be adventurous when ordering meat from a restaurant

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

A

sk the average Australian what their favourite meat is, and you’ll likely hear a lot of the same answers: fillet steak, lamb chops, and chicken breast. These are all tender, easy-to-eat, low-fat options with lots of meat and very little in the way of fat and gristle. As premium cuts, we’re willing to pay a premium price for them, but are we missing out on something better?

Look around the world, and while lean, tender cuts are still considered luxurious and in-demand, they often aren’t the most sought after. Beef brisket can be found in hot pot in China, flank steak is popular in tacos in Mexico, pork hocks form the basis of many an Eastern European stew, and every part of the chicken is used for yakitori in Japan.

Historically, the reasons for using these less-coveted cuts were simple: price, availability and survival. When you’re poor, you find ways to make more with less. You might not be able to afford fillet steak for the family each week, but that cheap flank is going to sustain everyone for several meals. And when you raise animals on a farm and have one cow to butcher and store for the winter, you’re going to try and use every last bit of that animal.

But while necessity might have been the initial primary factor driving

the consumption of secondary cuts of meat, something else happened as a result. As these less desirable cuts didn’t lend themselves to easy cooking, people had to find ways to make them delicious, leading to methods like slow cooking, fast grilling, and the use of marinades and rubs. They also realised that these cuts tended to be a lot more flavoursome than the expensive cuts – a win/win situation.

Two secondary cuts of meat that have become popular in Australia in recent years are pork belly and chicken wings.

While pork belly has unknowingly been eaten by many, in the form of side or streaky bacon and pancetta, it has really

come into its own over the past decade with many chefs featuring it as a dish on their menus, particularly at Asian and American BBQ restaurants. When done right, pork belly is a rich trio of tender meat, melt-in-your-mouth fat, and sweet, crispy caramelised crust.

Chicken wings, meanwhile, have ê gone from being something mostly

THE RISE OF TE X A S BBQ Over the past few years Texas BBQ has looked like an unstoppable “dude food” cuisine in Australia. We might be reaching peak BBQ, but there are still great places out there, such as Fancy Hank’s (fancyhanks.com) and Le Bon Ton (lebonton.com.au)

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THE POINTY END THE FEAST 2 0F 2 used as dog meat, to a staple on the menu of most bars and pubs around the country. Whether it’s hot American buffalo wings or sweet and sticky Korean wings, this former scrap meat has been elevated to hero status.

For chefs, the use of secondary cuts is a no-brainer. As customers become increasingly willing to try new things, chefs are allowed to be creative in ways they weren’t before.

It also allows many chefs to tap into recipes influenced by the food that they grew up with or discovered when travelling. From a business sense, these cuts are cheaper, which means higher margins for the restaurant and lower prices for customers.

While we might still be a long way from the widespread acceptance of ox tongue, lamb brains and pig ears on our menus, it’s not unreasonable to expect that we might get there one day.

In the meantime, here’s where to find some delicious secondary cuts being prepared well in Australia.

Bluebonnet Barbecue (Melbourne, VIC) Owner/chef Chris Terlikar has his roots in fine dining and spent years cooking in high-end restaurants before discovering Texas-style BBQ while working in New York. He went to Texas to learn from some of the best, and when he returned to Melbourne he opened Bluebonnet Barbecue – one of the best

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"FOR CHEFS, THE USE OF SECONDARY CUTS IS A NOBRAINER ALLOWING THEM TO BE MORE CREATIVE" American BBQ restaurants in Australia.

With Texas BBQ, the king of the secondary cut is brisket, and the version at Bluebonnet is as good as you’ll get outside of the US. It’s not all about traditional BBQ cuts, though. Terlikar also does amazing things with secondary cuts like beef cheek and pork belly.

Porteño (Surry Hills, NSW) Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate brought Argentinean asado and parilla to Sydney when they opened Porteño in 2010, and it’s still a very popular restaurant today. There’s something timeless and brilliant about meat cooked over an open fire pit, and these guys do it right. Yes, you can get rib eye and sirloin here, but our tip is to go for the flavoursome Entraña – grilled Kobe Cuisine wagyu skirt steak with wood roasted peppers and chimichurri. The morcilla, AKA grilled blood sausage, is also fantastic.

Baby Mammoth (Northbridge, WA) Baby Mammoth is a South Africaninspired restaurant run by South African owner Ryan Lambson and his Indonesian/Chinese wife, Tania.

The menu features an assortment of dishes that capture the cultural melting pot that is South Africa and its food, and features to great effect things beyond cuts of meat.

The bone marrow with spiced rice, dehydrated beef and sambal is a luscious South African-Indonesian flavour bomb, while the snails with garlic-fennel butter and fried capers on toast is one of the best things you’ll eat all year.

La Popular Taqueria (Port Adelaide, SA) An old computer repair shop is where you’ll find Mexico City-born Daniella Guevara serving up some of the best tacos in Adelaide. Everything is made in-house and the tacos are as authentic as you’ll find outside of Mexico.

Try the Yucatan-style cochinita (pulled pork) marinated in achiote paste, citrus, herbs and spices, and topped with pickled onion; and the cachete de res (beef cheek) braised with guajillo, pasilla and morita chillies.

Libertine (Brisbane, QLD) Anyone who has been to Hanoi can tell you of the delights of the French Vietnamese fusion food around the city, and owner Andrew Baturo brings some of the magic to Libertine. The menu features a tasty selection of FrenchVietnamese with flourishes of Japanese and Chinese flavours.

Try the pan-fried dumplings filled with braised Black Angus beef cheek, or the twice-cooked free-range pork belly with a cognac and chilli glaze.

THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture online magazine The City Lane, and he is one third of the craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective.

Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.

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THE POINTY END

Pack these on your next trip away 1

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1 TINASHE JOYRIDE

This long-in-gestation LP from the LA-based R&B singer is relatively short for a Tinashe project, but propulsive and dominated by its single-worthy cuts “No Drama”, “Me So Bad”, “Ooh La La” and “Faded Love”.

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After spending decades post-Smiths flitting from project to project, iconic guitarist and singer Johnny Marr has knuckled down in more recent years to unearth a rich vein of solo form. Call the Comet is perhaps more rock-driven than previous releases; songs like “Hi Hello” and “Rise” are remarkably effortless for a bloke who’s been at this since the 80s.

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THE POINTY END

Say “bottoms up” in the Top End

WORDS JOSEPHINE AGOSTINOH

T

hey've shouted more rounds than had steak dinners, so it’s safe to say the owners of Darwin's only all-grain craft brewery, One Mile, know just the right places to cool off with a cold one in their home town.

It may be Australia's smallest capital city, but make no mistake: Darwin knows how to party.

And now, during the dry season that lasts from May to October, the festivities are in full swing – and not just on the weekends.

According to well-known locals and the “Directors, Brewers and Drinkers” of One Mile Brewing Company, Bardy Bayram and Stuart Brown, there’s no “quiet” night to hit the town in this Top End city.

“You can party here any night of the week,” says Bardy, who can often be found enjoying a bevvy in one of the 20 venues around town his sweet amber is stocked in, or his own Tasting Bar

in Winnellie, just outside the city. “It’s a young environment and, being a transient place, there are always people who want to have a good time and meet someone new. At this time of year, there’s always something going on.”

Stuart and Bardy, who were drinking buddies years before they joined forces to create One Mile, have seen a huge change in Darwin’s pub and bar scene.

“There are more upmarket choices now, and casual places that offer more than just the usual pub experience,” Bardy says. “People are enjoying IPAs, not just VB or XXXX beers. But it is the tropics, so don’t expect to find high alcohol stouts or porters up here. The lagers and ales are what goes here in the heat.”

While iconic watering holes have been joined by a new breed transplanted straight from a Melbourne laneway, giving this international city a fresh, cosmopolitan mix, the “easygoing” dress ê

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THE POINTY END

code for which Darwin is famous is well and truly here to stay. And that, dear friends, is the key to finding the best locales in town.

“You don’t go to a place where you can’t wear thongs,” Bardy quips. “If it’s not allowed, you should be concerned!”

Here is a guide to Stuart and Bardy’s favourite haunts, with special mentions for Six Tanks Brew Co, Hot Tamale, The Trader Bar, and Rorke’s Beer Wine Food.

Darwin Sailing Club

“Darwin Sailing Club is a mustsee for tourists because of the spectacular sunset you’ll only find here“ DARWIN IS A PARTY TOWN MOST NIGHTS OF THE WEEK

A visit to Darwin isn’t complete without an evening sundowner at this local institution, located in Fannie Bay. “It’s a must-see for tourists because of the spectacular sunset you’ll only find here,” Stuart says. “It’s definitely one of the best views in all of Darwin and the best spot for sunsets.”

Grab an outside table in the late afternoon to get prime position for the sky show, enjoying a drinks list made up of beers and wines from around Australia. The fare is solid pub-style food, with parmies, fish and chips and steaks on the menu. ”You’d have a feed and a relaxing beer or wine on a Sunday, then head elsewhere to kick on,” Bardy adds.

Another famous Darwin attraction, the Mindil Markets, held on Thursdays and Sunday afternoons from May to October, is

within walking distance, as are the Museum and Art Gallery of the NT and the Darwin Bowls and Social Club for those who fancy a roll on the greens.

The kids will be sorted on the playground and grass area, and there’s a scenic path to the beach. “But we recommend you stay out of the water unless you want to risk swimming with crocs,” Bardy warns.

8 Atkins Drive, Fannie Bay; dwnsail.com.au

Stone House This certainly isn’t a typical Darwin watering hole. With its sleek, dark, cosy vibe and original stone wall exterior, it definitely feels like you could be in a tiny lane in the Melbourne CBD. And that’s just what the owner, a Melbourne publican, had in mind in bringing a little slice of the southern city to the Top End. Since its opening two years ago, locals and tourists have flocked here for its top-notch food and wine that can be enjoyed “in a suit after work or in a pair of shorts and thongs,” according to Bardy.

Located in a historic building on Cavenagh Street (formerly the main street of Chinatown) in the CBD, there’s the option to drink with the lights dimmed inside or in the tropicalthemed garden out the back.

Bardy says the staff’s knowledge on food and wine pairing is second to none and rates the wine list as one of the city’s best. “If you were trying to impress a date, it’s a good option,” Bardy says. “It’s somewhere you would go for a nice champagne or a wellmixed cocktail. We usually grab a beer and head out the back after work and grab a bite.

The pulled pork is really good!”

Stuart recommends checking out the graffiti artwork just behind Stone House on Austin Lane for Instagram-worthy snaps.

33 Cavenagh Street, Darwin; stonehousedarwin.com.au

Lola’s Pergola This is the place where anything goes.

Okay, almost anything!

“There’s never a dull moment at Lola’s,” says Bardy, who has enjoyed countless coldies at this celebrated Darwin hot spot.

“It’s been referred to as a circus on acid.”

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Owners Kitty and Mulga, who are as eccentric as their carnival-themed venue, will often be seen chatting with patrons, ensuring a good time is had by all.

By day, the venue has a buzz with a chilled-out feel. Groups lap up the stunning views of yachts bobbing away in Cullen Bay Marina from the deck or open-air lounge, and parents enjoy some wine time as the kids let off some steam on the carousel and amusement rides.

At night, the party kicks up a gear and keeps going into the wee hours, so this is one place you won’t want to leave early.

The prices are good, too, and easy to keep track of. “All pints are $10, wine is $8 a glass across the board, and $10 for bigger glasses,” Stuart says. “The craft beer range is great, and espresso martinis are popular too.”

If one of Lola’s famous burgers – such as the Gary Ablett, Bruce Lee or Skippy (yes, made from kangaroo) – or their parmy night specials don’t float your boat, then take a pick from the row of popular restaurants just steps away in the marina.

48 Marina Boulevard, Larrakeyah; lolas.net.au

The Precinct Tavern This local favourite already had a lot going for it with its central location and friendly vibe, and now with a flashy new deck that brings the outside in and a bar set in a full-size

RAISE A GLASS TO AUSTR ALIA'S SMALLEST CAPITAL CIT Y

Where to sleep it off DARWIN AIRPORT HOTELS Accor Hotels has a couple of great accommodation options right near the Darwin airport.

Stay the night at the Novotel Darwin Airport or the Mercure Darwin Airport Resort for a convenient and relaxing stay up north; check out the deals, room options and hotel facilities by visiting darwinairporthotels.com.au.

caravan, it’s better than ever. ”The Precinct has a bit of everything,” Stuart says. “It has one of the largest ranges of beers in Darwin, both draught and bottled, and is known for its food pairing with beer and ciders as it has a top-notch restaurant too. They do great mussels, which isn’t a common menu item up here.”

Adds Bardy: “There’s something different on every day of the week, from DJs to quiz nights, and sports up on the big screens. There’s a good mix of people and you might spot a celebrity or two. I’ve met Bliss n Eso there.”

Grab a frothie and check out the best of the Darwin Waterfront, with views of the wave pool and Convention Centre, and a short walk to the Royal Flying Doctor Tourist Facility and Stokes Hill Wharf for sunset.

7 Kitchener Drive, Darwin; theprecincttavern.com.au

Deck Bar When there’s a big night to be had, the Deck Bar is on many a local’s bar-hopping itinerary.

Perched on Mitchell Street, Darwin’s premier entertainment strip, there’s no shortage of entertainment in this joint, even if it’s just watching the world go by on the deck.

“It’s a cool, relaxed place, with friendly staff and consistently good food,” Stuart says.

“I can highly recommend the laksa!”

While Deck has been a Darwin stalwart for years, it keeps things fresh and fun. “There’s drag queen bingo on Tuesday nights, foodthemed nights with tacos, parmies and 50c wings, and live music,” Bardy says. “The owner is a pioneer in cocktail challenges, so they aim to impress with their creations, too.”

In the dry season, grab a drink before walking to the Deckchair Cinema, or take in some pretty special water views on the esplanade to complete the Darwin experience.

22 Mitchell Street, Darwin; thedeckbar.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Darwin from Brisbane; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END TRAVEL & 4WDING

1 0F 2

THE PASSENGER A round-table chat with three different travellers.

This issue’s topic: off-road holidays

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

Paul Chai, ex-skeptic I may just be the most recent convert to taking a 4WD on holidays. I took my family on a visit to Fraser Island (see feature, page 70) in a borrowed Isuzu, and while I was a little worried about getting stuck in the sand, the fun and the challenge of driving off-road was an unexpected bonus to the natural beauty of the world’s largest sand island.

I guess the simple thing that an offroad vehicle does is gets you to places you wouldn’t otherwise get to see if you take an organised tour. I’ve always loved

a road trip, but the key word there was road. I had previously really only taken dirt tracks, not slipped around the sand of an off-road pathway that looks better suited to a tank.

Four-wheel driving can take you to hidden rainforests; you can reach parts of a place that other cars can’t, and you can have a really good time while you do it. I actually approached the whole idea with a fair bit of concern. Fraser Island is serious business with a set of driving rules to follow, and that includes being very aware of the tides. You drive

along the beach here, and if you get your timing wrong, the water is up so high on the beach that you run a serious risk of getting bogged. Even at low tide there are sections of the beach road that require you to climb rocky outcrops and spin wheels over sand dunes. This isn’t just getting a bit of dust on the paintwork. But after I overcame the idea I was going to roll the car over onto its roof, I started to enjoy myself.

You view the path as a challenge in much the same way as I look at a ski run: ê what’s the best way down and how

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THE POINTY END TRAVEL & 4WDING

2 0F 2

I’VE ALWAYS LOVED A ROAD TRIP, BUT THE KEY WORD THERE WAS ROAD. I HAD PREVIOUSLY REALLY ONLY TAKEN DIRT TRACKS, NOT SLIPPED AROUND THE SAND OF AN OFFROAD PATHWAY THAT LOOKS BETTER SUITED TO A TANK. do I achieve that? This approach brings a kind of meditative approach to the whole trip. Or I could have followed my brotherin-law’s advice, which was to “Fang it!” – which, to be fair, was needed in a couple of situations.

My two sons' attitude was: “Please bounce us around as much as possible and ideally scare us a bit,” so in that respect a 4WD holiday had something for all of us.

Connor McLeod, highway man What I like about a road trip is the part where you hit a freeway, pop on some tunes and relax a little as you steer off into the sunset. When you’re driving offroad, you’re constantly on high alert; you could drive through the most amazing scenery on the planet and, when you get out the other side, the only thing you’re going to remember is the bumps and rocks in the road. Or maybe I’m just doing it wrong. Maybe you get to the point in your off-road skills where you can kick back with one hand on the wheel and the other on the stereo volume, but it seems unlikely to me; the whole things seems like a lot of

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concentration is needed, which is not what I like in my breaks from work.

Four-wheel driving seems like a lot of effort for not a lot of reward. Are there really any places your 4WD can take you that I can’t hike into on two feet? Is the experience really any better in your own car than on a tour in a 4WD bus? Are there parts of Australia that only 4WD owners can truly appreciate?

I think the main problem with fourwheel driving may well be four-wheel drivers, who are constantly banging on about their skills, or the best way/time/ angle/gear you should be travelling in – describing their four-wheel driving prowess as if they have discovered a cure for cancer. They have their cars packed to the literal rooftops with gear that makes them look like they are off into the central Sahara when they are just driving up the beach to set up their camp with a flat-screen TV and stereo as part of the kit.

Surely if “getting back to nature” was the real reason they bought these cars they’d just be travelling with a swag in the boot, rather than half a house – or maybe they should just walk.

Sarah Mitchell, off-road biker My kind of off-road adventure is a quad bike tour. I can’t get organised enough to grab all the gear for a four-wheel drive holiday, but on a recent trip to Moreton Island I hit the sand trails on Tangalooma Resort (tangalooma.com) and the rush of touring the sand dunes at sunset was enough to get me wondering if the offroad life is for me.

I realise that a quad bike isn’t the same as serious four-wheel drive trekking, but I was also dubious about any sort of motorsport, so it came as a surprise to me that slipping around in the sand, getting the hang of the twists and turns of the quad-bike trails, and getting very close to some very large trees was so much fun! It gave me a small look at what it might be like to get in amongst the off-road trails in some of Australia’s more remote parts.

There’s a kind of freedom to not sticking to the roads, an enjoyment in testing your driving skills on uncertain, but safely supervised, terrain. That said, I’m not sure I’m ready to take off on my own, and bet that I wouldn’t need to be dug out of somewhere by someone more skilled than me.

I guess this tiny glimpse into the four-wheel driving side of things made me less judgemental of those who like to spend their weekends bouncing around along the road less travelled.

If it’s anything like cutting loose in the Moreton Island sand tracks, I might just have to give it a try.

MY DAILY GREEN

SUPERFOODS COMBO Lucinda Dennis, age 29 Founder of Snowluxe.com @Lucindadennis @snowluxeofficial

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Super Greens is a combo of four of nature’s most nutrient rich wholefoods - Spirulina, Chlorella, Barley Grass and Wheat Grass which contain a vast array of natural vitamins and minerals and are high in anti-oxidants to assist in the removal of free radicals.

To optimise your daily nutritional intake, simply blend Synergy Natural Super Greens powder with juice, seasonal fruits or your choice of liquid base for a delicious smoothie. Or take as tablets if preferred.

SUPER GREENS f r o m S Y N E R G Y N AT U R A L

AVAILABLE in the vitamin section of most Coles, Woolwor ths and Safeway supermarkets, selected Health Food Stores and Pharmacies. Our full range of pack sizes and products can be purchased from our website.

synergynatural.com

THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

EAGLE POINT Aireys Inlet, Victoria

W

hy it’s worth it: You think you know the Great Ocean Road, then you find a secret pocket of dirt roads, coastal tracks and hidden bays in Aireys Inlet that you virtually have all to yourself – and a house so extravagant it could house contestants from a reality TV show. Eagle Point is a sixbedroom modern masterpiece designed to take

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advantage of the views and to fit discreetly on this private block.

Bang for your buck: The upstairs open-plan living space is 25 square metres with a reading nook packed with designer chairs, a huge dining table and open fire, with doors leading out to the 125 square metre split level pool deck – all craning for

beachside bliss Get away from the Great Ocean Road crowds at this hidden spot in Aireys Inlet

and a kitchen that could win you MKR, Downstairs is aimed at kids, with a ping-pong table on offer. The master bedroom is the pick of the sleeps with its own angular lighthouse views, electronic drapes for privacy and a huge double shower in the ensuite. The whole house is thoughtfully equipped with PlayStations, board games and books.

a look at the Split Point Lighthouse. The beach house is full of Australian art that works perfectly with the modern spaces; by the reading nook a commissioned work by sculptor Peter D Cole sits in a specially designed space while an etching by Graham Fransella dominates the dining area. Music fans will flip over the Sonos system that pipes your tunes through the whole house (and pool).

The digs: There are six bedrooms secreted around the two incredible living spaces. The top-floor living space has direct access to the deck and pool

Must-do experience: Across from the house is a coastal track that leads to the Split Point lighthouse that you’ve been looking at from every available angle in the house. Walk it and you’ll see swamp antechinus – a rare coastal heathlands rodent – dart in front of you, find carved chairs with impossibly good views, and race the tide to a cave at the Eagle Rock Marine Sanctuary.

The damage: Eagle Point costs $3,500 for the two-night minimum stay; greatoceanroadholidays.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 10 destinations; tigerair.com.au

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Australia’s leading local beer tour experience, Dave’s Brewery Tours takes you inside the region’s finest breweries – where you can taste, touch, smell, hear and learn about every part of the beer making process.

Drink in history as you tread in the footsteps of the convicts, larrikin gangs and locals of the past on our historic pub walks.

Visit the watering holes and discover the stories of the lighter, and often darker, side of our Cities.

Dave and his team of expert beer guides are your designated drivers for the day, so all you have to do is hop on.

Tours run throughout the week and include a choice of craft beer, wine or non-alcoholic drink at each pub.

What better way to get a taste of our local beer scene?

Our colourful past, it’s best told over a drink!

THE POINTY END

WINTER WARMERS T he

Barsto

ol

As the weather cools down, craft beer drinkers turn to darker, heavier brews Wayward Brewing Co, NSW

W

hile there’s nothing better than enjoying an ice-cold beer on a hot summer’s day, thanks to the increasing range of dark beers on offer in Australia, more people are enjoying a beer during the cold, wet months of winter. Summer may be synonymous with easy-drinking lagers and pale ales, but winter is best suited to dark beers like stouts and porters.

The best place to enjoy a dark beer is fresh at the brewery that brewed it. So, in this issue, we take a visit to craft breweries around Australia who specialise in brewing dark ales, stouts and porters.

Newstead Brewing Co, QLD A mainstay of the Brisbane brewing landscape for many years, Newstead now has two locations. However, the best and original is at Doggett Street, situated inside a former bus depot.

Here you can enjoy Newstead’s “21 feet, 7 inches” porter – an easy-drinking porter loaded with chocolate, caramel and coffee flavours – while enjoying snacks and hearty meals from their in-house kitchen.

85 Doggett Street, Newstead; newsteadbrewing.com.au

In a basement cellar in a tiny lane behind busy Pyrmont Bridge Road, Wayward brewing has quickly become one of Sydney’s most popular craft breweries.

Wayward offers the Midnight Barley Cowboy Hopped Porter, an Americanstyle porter. It’s an interesting hybrid between an Irish dry stout and a hopheavy India black ale. If you visit on a Sunday you can enjoy music during the Sunday Sessions from 4-7pm, where local singer-songwriters offer chilled-out afternoons of tunes.

1 Gehrig Lane, Camperdown; waywardbrewing.com.au

James Squire, “The Crafty Squire”, VIC The Crafty Squire is one of Australia’s longest operating brewpubs. This central city venue has recently undergone extensive renovations to offer a modern bar, restaurant and function facilities across two levels. The James Squire “Jack of Spades“ porter has a more delicate complexity than a regular stout.

Roasted barley and long maturation deliver a dark porter with rich black colour, hints of malt chocolate and roasted coffee, and a light, creamy finish.

127 Russell Street, Melbourne; jamessquire.com.au

Prancing Pony, SA If you want a break from the city, Prancing Pony is an award-winning craft brewery in the Adelaide Hills.

Their unique brewery door outlet “The Brewshed” is located inside their commercial brewing space.

The “Dark Ale” is a cross between an American black ale and American stout. It has a big body, yet is light and easy to drink. The venue offers a range of experiences for groups including brewery tour, guided beer tasting and regional tasting platters.

42 Mount Barker Road, Totness; prancingponybrewery.com.au So this winter, put away the esky full of icy-cold lager beers, the BBQ tongs and thongs, and nestle beside an open fire, on a comfy couch, and enjoy one of the fantastic range of dark ales and porters being produced by Australia’s best craft breweries.

MEET THE AUTHOR Martyn Ferguson is a craft beer travel blogger and fan of all things craft beer.

Visit @craftbeerlandia

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EVENTS Winter Glass, 4 pm to 10 pm, June 16 EXHIBITIONS Genius Loci, 5 April to 3 June Confluence, 14 June to 12 August + SHOP + TOURS

11 Wentworth Avenue Kingston ACT 2604 canberraglassworks.com Open Wed to Sun, 10am to 4pm Admission by gold coin donation

+ CLASSES Canberra Glassworks is supported by artsACT and the Australia Council Visual Arts and Crafts Strategy.

THE POINTY END

Do a cafe tour in Canberra

WORDS PRU BURNS

I

t’s lunchtime on a Wednesday in Canberra’s CBD and the streets are swarming with workers. Cafes and restaurants, just steps apart, are crowded and noisy. Inside, prettily plated dishes and glasses of cold brew, wine or water litter their tables.

In case you missed it, Canberra is having a moment. Last year, the Australian capital city was named Lonely Planet’s third best city in the world to visit. Its cafe culture played a crucial role in that, and it’s scenes like this that makes that very clear.

“Canberrans certainly love their cafes,” says longtime local Margaret Wade, who runs Canberra Secrets Personalised Tours. Her Cafe Culture walking tour highlights the depth of variety in the city.

First stop: Nookie Espresso Bar (122 Alinga Street; facebook.com/nookinthecity). From modest beginnings as a coffee kiosk and then a van, the cafe took up residence in a cosy corner space in the Sydney Building in 2016.

Owners Nam Do and Liv Phengrasmy, a husband-and-wife team, are known for their ê

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THE POINTY END exchange shelf. Take note of the old piano on the nearby pavement – a nod to its evening alter-ego. By night, it transforms itself into a music venue. Catch a show by a new or established act or get caught up in the linguistic stylings of a poetry slam.

Tucked away from the busy London Circuit is a graffiti-decorated loading zone. It’s home to the next port of call: Meadow (Odgers Lane; meadowlife.com.au). A surprising oasis in the city, the cafe’s undercover outdoor area spills from its exposed brick interior. Melbourne-made Seven Seeds coffee features on the menu.

Canberra itself has plenty of local roasters – even a local minister roasts his own beans, calling them “Ministry of Grounds”. ONA Coffee

CANBERRA CAFE NOOKIE HEADS UP A CAFFEINE REVOLUTION IN THE ACT

hospitality and altruism. They often offer free coffees to the less fortunate.

A few doors down from Nookie, you’ll stumble across a piece of Canberra history at the site of the city’s first-ever cafe, Blue Moon.

Opened in 1928 by a large family, the venue became an integral part of early Canberra.

It set the standard for the cafe culture to come: original and community-focused.

Migrants that came to Australia after World War II also helped shape the culture.

“They established Australians’ love of coffee and exposed them to the different choices of it,” Wade says. “They engaged them in the coffee experience.”

Next, Smith’s Alternative (76 Alinga Street; smithsalternative.com). Nestled inside the Melbourne Building further along the London Circuit, it was once an iconic Canberra bookshop. Today, the nostalgia for its former identity is evident in its distinctly homely environment.

During the day, sink into a worn leather sofa on the sidewalk with a cup of coffee, a vegan treat, and a read from the book

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THE CUPPING ROOM'S SLEEK INTERIORS OFFER A GREAT SPOT TO STOP

“The old stereotype of Canberra being boring and filled with roundabouts and politicians is really very tired“

and Lonsdale Street Roasters are arguably the biggest names on the scene.

The story behind Lonsdale Street Roasters is another example of the role Canberra’s cafe culture played in its evolution into a hot spot.

Before the cafe and roastery opened in 2010, Lonsdale Street was better associated with car yards and petrol stations. Still, entrepreneur Alistair Evans had a vision for it.

As he predicted, his cafe took off, and so did the redevelopment of the street. Stroll down it today and you’ll find boutiques, restaurants, and, of course, more cafes.

Back along the London Circuit you’ll find Da Rosario (59 London Circuit; mezzalira.com.au/da-rosario). A tiny cafe with only sidewalk seating out front of the Melbourne Building, it’s the little brother to Italian restaurant Mezzalira Ristorante. Linger over an espresso and a cannoli at this self-described ”hole in the wall” as you people-watch.

If you’ve got more time to spend here, drop by Doughnut Department (2 Alinga Street; facebook.com/doughnutdepartment) for a yeast-raised, hand-cut doughnut; The Cupping Room (1-13 University Avenue; thecuppingroom.com.au) for a coffee cupping session; and Coffee Lab (26 Narellan Place; facebook.com/coffeelabcanberra) for its well-known Bellerophon cold brew, served in a wine glass.

“The old stereotype of Canberra being boring and filled with only roundabouts and politicians is really very tired, and so out of date,” Wade says. “We’ve got some excellent chef-hatted restaurants and some buzzing cafes. The coffee scene thrives within that.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Canberra from Melbourne and Sydney; tigerair.com.au

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From dusk till dawn Brisbane may just be the best night out in Australia.

Matt Shea takes you on an all-nighter in the Queensland capital.

ALL PHOTOS MORGAN ROBERTS

L

ocals like to argue about when Brisbane started to change. Many point to the arrival of the Gallery of Modern Art in 2007.

Others reckon it goes as far back as Expo 88.

The truth is, of course, Brisbane was always evolving. Right now, though, it feels like the transformation is running at light speed.

Nuanced legislation and initiatives from state and local governments have led to better developments and a new wave of independent restaurants, cafes, bars and boutiques. Precincts have emerged – Fish Lane, Woolloongabba, Gasworks – while Fortitude Valley is these days considered Australia’s go-to entertainment hub.

“One hundred percent,” Pixie Weyand says.

“Brisbane is changing so fast. It’s really exciting.”

Weyand should know. She’s the owner of The Zoo (711 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley; thezoo.com.au), one of the most storied live performance venues in the country – a former sewing factory turned shrine to music that has welcomed artists as diverse as Bluebottle Kiss, You Am I and the New Pornographers.

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In many ways, Weyand personifies Brisbane’s young, independent spirit. She opened her first venue, a cafe and bar, over the road from The Zoo when she was just 23. She also pioneered FEED MUSIC, an initiative that helps touring musicians eat on a budget.

Weyand took over The Zoo from co-founder Joc Curran on her 26th birthday. In the process, she inserted herself into the frontline of Brisbane’s busy live music community. “I’m not sure I realised the gravity of the situation,” she says, laughing. “It’s been the biggest and hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life.”

The pay-off, of course, was to be able to book some of her favourite bands. The week Weyand took over, British India played a sold-out show. “The Growlers put on an amazing gig in November,” she says. “Ballpark Music are always brilliant, and Jungle Giants had an under-18s show recently, which is something we’re hoping to do more often.”

Weyand is also on the frontline when it comes to Brisbane’s growing pains. Last year’s introduction of controversial ID scanners was ê

BRISBANE

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BRISBANE

BRISBANE IS BECOMING THE BEST NIGHT OUT IN THE COUNTRY

the most recent example. Weyand and her fellow venue owners have vocally opposed the kinds of draconian measures that could potentially strangle the city’s nightlife.

“We all have a vision. We all want the same thing,” she says. “We work together quite a bit. If something’s going on, we’ll talk about it and see how we can tackle it. I’m not sure that happens anywhere else.”

It means Brisbane has done well to absorb the impact of the scanners, and for Weyand indicates the underlying strength of the city’s nightlife. It’s also a sign of the way it has diversified and spread from the Valley into other parts of town.

“There are some great activations,” Weyand says. “James Street is coming up and offsetting the grunginess of the rest of the Valley. The CBD has some great bars, like Brooklyn Standard (Eagle Lane, Brisbane; brooklynstandard.com.au), which does ace live music. South Bank is perfect for chilling out.

“For food, Fish Lane is a favourite.

There’s so much diversity there. I’m a vego, but I can take friends there and we can all get something to eat.”

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“James Street is offsetting the grunginess of the rest of the Valley; the CBD has some great bars”

FROM FISH LANE Where to start a night out in Brisbane? We take Weyand’s advice and head towards Fish Lane, the city’s pitch for laneway culture done right.

Fish Lane’s success rests partly on the fact it’s long, running across four blocks between Manning and Grey Streets in South Brisbane, but also because its development has been top-down – almost literally.

Five years ago, this narrow by-way was surrounded by warehouses and daggy offices.

Now, it’s hemmed in by handsome apartment towers. With each new development comes new commercial tenancies, which in turn have been filled by some of the city’s best food and beverage operators. Scattered all along the lane’s four blocks, they encourage you to wander its length.

There’s La Lune (3/109 Melbourne Street, South Brisbane; lalunewineco.com.au), a spiffy wine room from star local chef Paul McGivern, followed by the enormous Asian street food eatery Chu the Phat (111 Melbourne Street, South Brisbane; chuthephat.com.au), and

BRISBANE neighbouring Gelato Messina (1/109 Melbourne Street, South Brisbane; gelatomessina.com) on Melbourne Street.

Further along there’s Saccharomyces Beer Cafe (Fish Lane btw Merivale and Hope Streets; goodbeercentral.sbcbar.com) and then a block over the Grey Street nucleus of Hello Please (10 Fish Lane, South Brisbane; helloplease.co), Maker (9 Fish Lane, South Brisbane; instagram.com/maker.bne), Julius Pizzeria (77 Grey Street, South Brisbane; juliuspizzeria.com.au), and award-winning fine diner, Gauge (77 Grey Street, South Brisbane; gaugebrisbane.com.au).

Saccharomyces Beer Cafe It’s not quite dinner time, so we dart into Saccharomyces, a low-set brick bunker full of locals getting their weekend under way. Inside it’s a buzzy, busy venue, splitting the difference between intimate marble tables on one side and taller hardwood benches on the other.

Up front at the bar are 10 taps focusing on Australian craft beer, with a bunch of snazzy imports by the can and bottle. We sidle up and take the tender’s recommendation of a couple of Bridge Road pale ales.

“This is a pretty typical Friday night,” owner Simon Booy tells us. “A lot of these people live here, but there are offices this side of the river too. So we’re popular for knock-offs.”

Booy offers us a menu of Saccharomyces’ rarefied dude food, but our dinner plans have already been laid elsewhere. We neck our schooners and wander out on to Hope Street.

Ol’ School A mark of Fish Lane’s success is that locals tend to think of it as a precinct rather than a “street”, its buzz slowly seeping into the surrounding suburb.

“We certainly feel it,” Ol’ School co-owner Trent Barton says. “People spill out of the lane, or the local bars might recommend they come up our way.”

Ol’ School (58 Hope Street, South Brisbane; olschool.co) is still leaning on that word of mouth, having only opened its doors in January. But Barton points around. Many of tonight’s diners are already regulars.

They come for exceptional fish and chips, the likes of which haven’t really been seen ê

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Holiday Must Do! Take in the beauty of natural bushland and rainforest settings as you come face-to-face with extraordinary Australian and exotic wildlife in exciting daily shows and hands-on encounters.

Open Daily 8am-5pm (Closed Anzac Day & Christmas Day).

Buy online and save, visit CurrumbinSanctuary.com.au

NOW OPEN

BRISBANE in Brisbane before. Chef and co-owner Jesse Stevens keeps it simple, offering whichever fish was best at the markets that morning.

He matches it to simple, fragrant salads and precisely fried hand-cut chips.

There are fish tacos and calamari butties and malt vinegar on the table, while Stevens and his staff quietly sing along to old Commodores tunes from the open kitchen.

It’s all very classy stuff.

TO THE CITY Finding the connective tissue in Brisbane’s deceptively sprawling CBD is tricky when you’re not a local.

Nevertheless, it boasts some of the best venues in town, from award-winning plant-based dining at Urbane (181 Mary Street, Brisbane; urbanerestaurant.com) to The Cloakroom Bar’s (215 Elizabeth Street, Brisbane; cloakroombar.co) bespoke cocktails and some of Australia’s best ramen at Taro’s (480 Queen Street, Brisbane; taros.com.au). It’s all here. You just need to know where to go.

Super Whatnot We keep it simple, strolling across Victoria Bridge and heading down Burnett Lane to find Super Whatnot (48 Burnett Lane, Brisbane City; superwhatnot.com).

This popular bolthole with its three-level design is all things to all comers. On a Friday night like tonight, George Street suits mix with transiting hipsters and well-heeled foreign students to give it a brilliant, inclusive hum.

“Fortitude Valley has a reputation that reaches well beyond Brisbane”

We order a couple of cocktails from the tight, well-curated list and settle in upstairs to people-watch. Before long, the DJ’s cuts of soul and rap pick up the pace and the crowd takes its cue to create a small dance floor.

Unfortunately, our glasses are empty. It’s our cue to hit the road.

TO THE VALLEY Fortitude Valley has a reputation as a party spot that, these days, reaches well beyond Brisbane’s city limits.

And despite the big box drinking barns that anchor the place, the Valley is – perhaps counterintuitively – becoming more nuanced in what it offers to revellers. You can eat some of the best burgers in town at Ben’s Burgers (B/5 Winn Street, Fortitude Valley; bensburgers.com.au); catch national and international touring bands at Black Bear Lodge (322 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley; blackbearlodge.com.au) and The Brightside (27 Warner Street, Fortitude Valley; thebrightsidebrisbane.com.au); or just take it easy with a cocktail at Gerard’s Bar (13a/23 James Street, Fortitude Valley; gerardsbar.com.au). ê

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E S T. 1 9 9 9

@madeinearthofficial

@madeinearthofďŹ cial

BRISBANE

Savile Row Talking of cocktails, one of the city’s best new bars is Savile Row (667 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley; savilerowbar.com.au).

Hidden behind an unassuming orange door is this pocket wonder, three tiered floors and two mezzanines twisting themselves around a central bar in a mix of darkened wood, leather and brass. The venue’s centrepiece is an enormous chandelier, illuminating a back bar stacked with exotic spirits.

We grab a round of drinks and mix with the locals. Downstairs, groups crowd around the bar; upstairs, couples huddle while watching the action below. We get chatting to a rambunctious bunch in a booth nearby.

One of their number tells us he not long ago moved to Brisbane from inner-Melbourne.

“I love it up here. There’s still a heap I haven’t seen but I just love the attitude – a really relaxed and unpretentious vibe. I’ve been telling all my friends to visit,” he laughs.

He then asks if he can buy us a drink.

He can’t, sorry. We have a gig to catch.

The Zoo By 2018, The Zoo hardly needs any introduction. Countless artists have played this wood-floored band room. It’s one of the best places in Australia to catch live music.

When we arrive, Canadians the Creepshow are just beginning a guitar-shredding, drumsmashing set of precision rock. Singer Kenda Legaspi wails. Sandro Sanchioni pounds the drums. Sean McNab leans on his double bass.

It’s exhilarating stuff.

The Friday night crowd alternates between bouncing in front of the stage and taking a break while catching a breeze from the venue’s windows.

“There’s a real love for the music that plays here,” Weyand says. “I had this horror trip back to Brisbane recently. But I went straight to the venue and got there just as the band was going on, and it was a really nice, refreshing moment – a nice reminder of how important The Zoo is to Brisbane nightlife.” ê

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BRISBANE

“We get ambitious ordering martinis, Zombies, Southsides” GET SOME PARTY FOOD AT LUCK Y EGG IN THE VALLEY

Lucky Egg As late as it likes to stay up, for a long time the Valley wasn’t so great at providing decent party food.

Thankfully, Jacob Knauth solved the problem with Lucky Egg (27 Warner Street, Fortitude Valley; luckyeggfc.com.au), his crisp-fried, free-range salute to the humble chicken shop regarded as one of the best in town. We arrive at the brand-new Brunswick Street outlet and order burgers finished with American cheddar and garlic pickles.

The clock has just hit midnight and great flows of people twist through each other in the mall outside. We join the other diners at Lucky Egg’s front window. “Had a good one?” a beery, bleary-eyed bloke next to me asks.

We have, we say. Not that it’s done just yet.

We squeeze towards the bar and get ambitious for the end of the night, ordering martinis and Zombies and Southsides. The place is packed with small groups and couples keen to dance. It’s not long before a one-two hit of remixed Madonna and Hot Chocolate has us at the front of the venue, moving with the rest of the good-time crowd. Around us are all sorts of all ages.

We cheers each other, and someone shouts that we need to do it all again next week. The DJ cuts the volume on “Heaven is in the Backseat of My Cadillac”. “Yeah, yeah!,” we all sing. Party heaven, on the other hand, might just be in Brisbane.

The Bowery Calling into The Bowery (676 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley; thebowery.com.au) is almost a requirement for any night out in the Valley.

A fabulous, booth-lined, prohibition erastyled favourite right in the guts of the precinct, on weeknights its bartenders strain cocktails to the sound of easygoing jazz music. Come the weekend, though, the place lets its hair down, DJs moving the tightly packed dance floor with a fusillade of rap, funk and swing.

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t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane from six destinations; tigerair.com.au

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DESTINATION MELBOURNE

DE S T IN AT ION ME L BOUR NE

A DOL F O

checks out Melbourne, the live-music capital of the world

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION, TWO DIFFERENT SIGHT VS SOUND

ADVENTURES

A DR IE NNE

takes a look at Melbourne’s galleries and art spaces

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

ROCKIN’ S TA R T

VIN Y L COUNTDOWN

Brunswick is the songwriters’ capital of Australia, home to the highest number of registered songwriters in the country. Ray Cafe (332 Victoria Road; raycafebrunswick.com) is a grungy brekky spot on Victoria Road that loves a good music pun. I’m having the Johnny Hash fry-up with poached eggs and Istra chorizo, but you could have sandwiches like the Smashing Pumpkins or the Notorious E.G.G.

Housed in an old boxing ring/mechanics garage, Record Paradise (15 Union Street, Brunswick; recordparadise.com.au) is an indie vinyl shop that also has space for instore listening parties and a regular trivia night.

BE AT S A ND BITES Lunch is a piece of handheld heaven at Beatbox Kitchen (692 Sydney Road, Brunswick; facebook.com/ beatboxkitchen) where you have a range of simple burgers done brilliantly. You can also have a game of ping-pong while you wait; just try not to have the ball land in anyone’s cheeseburger.

A DOL F O

gets punny over breakfast and finds a new rooftop bar

f r id ay

10:00

12:00

13:00

HIDDEN G A L L ERIES The northern suburb of Brunswick is full of small galleries and Tinning Street Presents (5/29 Tinning Street, Brunswick; tinningstreetpresents.com) is up a laneway near the railway line. The exwarehouse is showing Pink Frost curated by Charlotte Wilson, a mix of paintings and video installations.

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A R T E V ER Y WHERE The whole gallery is surrounded by street art, so I take a while to check out the various murals and tagging that decorate the laneway.

The streets of Brunswick are full of commissioned and spontaneous pieces; I love the colours on this non-commissioned piece just outside Tinning Street Presents.

S TREE T S A HE A D I come across this huge mural in a car park just off Sydney Road. Melbourne has really embraced public art and just down the road is the Barkly Square shopping centre that has a huge commissioned piece by street artist Ghostpatrol.

DESTINATION MELBOURNE BIRDS OF A FE ATHER

BEER WITH A VIE W Brunswick’s newest addition, the Cornish Rooftop (163a Sydney Road, Brunswick; cornisharms.com.au) is a rooftop bar above the veganfriendly Cornish Arms Hotel. It’s a modern, summery space but with clever design elements – like using the old roof tiles as decoration on the bar. And the bar sends out some pretty good cocktails.

The louche, loungy vibe of The Spotted Mallard (314 Sydney Road, Brunswick; spottedmallard.com) – full name The Rare and Reclusive Oft-Neglected Lesser Spotted Mallard – is perfect for an afternoon of live music. Duck in early for sound check and you can grab a beer on the balcony in the sun.

15:00

17:00

L A S T DRINK S The Retreat Hotel (280 Sydney Road, Brunswick; retreathotelbrunswick. squarespace.com) has live music most nights in the back bar and regular smaller gigs in the front bar. Upstairs you’ll find Amelia Shaw, a retro cocktail bar that is open at weekends. The Retreat is best served late when other places have closed and everyone gravitates here.

19:00

A DR IE NNE

strolls the streets of Brunswick for galleries and pastries

L OC A L G A L L ER Y

A R T Y L UNCH I’m grabbing lunch at French cafe and bakery Choukette (318 Sydney Road, Brunswick; choukette.com.au).

The pastries here are mini works of art, especially the raspberry croissants, but I’m having a kale quiche in the window as I watch the foot traffic on Sydney Road.

The Counihan Gallery in Brunswick (233 Sydney Road, Brunswick moreland.vic.gov.au) is a local council gallery next to the Brunswick Town Hall.

When I visit there are two shows on as part of the Human Rights Arts and Film Festival: Les Voyageurs, which looks at displacement and mass migration; and Photographs from Ukraine’s War-torn East. It’s great to see local councils supporting the arts.

BIRD WATCHING I finish with one of my favourite views in the area, watching the trams head down Sydney Road from the balcony of the Spotted Mallard (314 Sydney Road, Brunswick; spottedmallard.com).

It’s a great spot on a sunny afternoon to just watch the world go by.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS FOR THOSE A BOUT TO ROCK MUSIC IN THE DN A Melbourne was recently declared the live music capital of the world after a Music Victoria (musicvictoria.com.au) survey found the city has more live music venues per capita than any in the world. There’s a troubadour culture here where bands can earn a living playing around the city. Every Saturday night 112,000 people see a gig, more than the AFL Grand Final.

MUSIC CENTR A L Hiding in the Arts Centre Melbourne are thousands of pieces of music memorabilia – from Split Enz’s colourful costumes to Kylie’s famous gold pants – that are part of the Performing Arts Collection. The Australian Music Vault (100 St Kilda Road; australianmusicvault. com.au) puts some of this on show, as well as video, city bus tours and the ability to make a digital mixtape.

Rock ‘n’ roll HQ is AC/DC Lane where once a year the team behind Cherry Bar, “pretty much the best rock ‘n’ roll bar in the world,” helps local street artists spray the lane with a rock theme. At the end of the lane is a tribute to AC/DC guitarist Malcolm Young and opposite is a brand-new, Cherry Bar-supported artwork of former AC/DC lead singer and rock god Bon Scott attempting a jail break out of the brick wall.

A DOL F O

heads to the heart of the music capital of the world, and catches a gig

S AT UR D AY

08:00

10:30

12:00

INTERN ATION A L A R T

A R T M A RK E T

TIL E FOR SOME A R T I’m usually rushing out of Flinders Street Station, but when you take a look around there’s art all over the place. This is a huge mosaic at the station; take a look next time you’re swiping your myki.

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Right next to the Arts Centre Melbourne there are a couple of local artists setting up on the street to sell their works. I’m heading to the NGV International (180 St Kilda Road, Melbourne; ngv.vic.gov.au ), but I haven’t even crossed the Yarra River and there’s art right next to me.

When I finally arrive at NGV International I see the sign for MoMA at NGV: 130 Years of Contemporary Art, the blockbuster exhibition (on until October 7). MoMA at NGV will have 200 works from the collection of New York’s Museum of Modern Art and should be a cracker.

DESTINATION MELBOURNE NIGHT AT THE THE ATRE TH AI-ING ONE ON One of AC/DC’s most famous music videos is when they blasted “It’s a long way to the top … if you wanna rock n roll” from the back of a flatbed truck as they cruised along Swanston Street.

Swanston is now home to Cookie (252 Swanston Street, Melbourne; cookie.net.au) one of the city’s original craft beer bars which also serves killer Thai meals. I pop in for lunch and grab a pad thai.

14:00

CHERR Y ROCK S I am back in AC/DC Lane for the opening of Cherry Bar (AC/DC Lane, Melbourne; cherrybar.com.au) that is all about the rock. Cherry has a devoted following that love it live. This is the bar that refused to let Lady Gaga bump a local band off the bill when she wanted to hire the place and where most major acts, like the Foo Fighters, party when they’re in town.

This pic is of possibly the most rock ‘n’ roll toilets in the whole world.

The state Labor government gets that Melbourne is about music, and they recently completed Phase 1 of a plan to renovate the historic Palais Theatre in St Kilda. Since 1927, the Palais has seen everyone from the Stones to Placebo play in its Art Deco surrounds. Tonight we’re catching Scottish cardigan-popsters Belle & Sebastian.

17:30

20:00

A DR IE NNE

heads to the NGV to see the art of the CBD

PUT TING THE TE A IN A R T

TA BL E M A NNER S MoMA isn’t quite open when I visit, so I head for the retro celebration that is A Modern Life: Tablewares 1930s–1980s a colourful look at ceramics and kitchenware (on until January 2019). It’s a fun look back at what constituted kitchen-cool.

Time for a break at the Tea Room on Level 1 of the NGV, a modern take on the tea party with handmade pastries. This is just one option in the gallery including the Garden Restaurant and the Crossbar Cafe. After a quick bite I’m ready to head across the road to the NGV’s sister gallery in Federation Square.

L OOKING BACK Federation Square is home to NGV Australia, the local collection of the National Gallery of Victoria, and I’m visiting The Field. This exhibition was the first thing to show in the NGV’s new premises on St Kilda Road (now NGV International) in 1968. The exhibit has been painstakingly reconstructed to include as many of the abstract works as could be found 50 years later (on until August 26). ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

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WEEKEND WARRIORS M A SS A PPE A L

KICK S TA R TER There’s a rock ‘n’ roll vibe at True North cafe (2a Munro Street, Coburg; truenortharcher.com) with music memorabilia adorning the walls, a heavily tattooed roster of waiters and an indie rock playlist.

But I only have eyes for my coffee as I try to the blow the cobwebs off after one too many at the Palais.

Melbourne’s music love goes right into the suburbs and the Northcote High Street has several options for the music fan. I wander past the Wesley Anne (250 High Street, Northcote; wesleyanne.com.au) a former church that now welcomes a new sort of worshipper to its regular gigs. There’s no music on yet, so I grab a copy of street press Beat Magazine and keep going.

WA L L-TO-WA L L MUSIC I’m heading for lunch at the Northcote Social Club (301 High Street, Northcote; northcotesocialclub.com) where I’m surrounded by posters from upcoming gigs.

I’d love to see Indigenous rapper Baker Boy, but if you’re in the area in August try Katy Steele, of Little Birdy fame, doing a solo gig.

It’s an intimate space but much loved by punters.

A DOL F O

heads to Northcote and rocks out in Collingwood

S UND AY

09:00

11:00

12:00

MORNING BL END I’m meeting at Blender Studios (Harbour Town, 20 Wharf Street, Docklands; theblenderstudios.com), an art space shared by 28 artists all mushed in together – hence the name.

Our host is Daniel Lynch (aka Junky Projects), a street artist who recycles rubbish into artworks and sculptures.

Look closely on the streets of Melbourne and you’ll see little people made of cans and bottle tops – that’s Dan. First we get a studio tour.

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THE A R T OF SL EEP

L A NE WAY G A L L ERIES Dan’s a great host and, despite living in Melbourne, I learn a lot. He shows us the last Banksy to survive in Melbourne, tells us how the city’s street cleaners censor works considered offensive, and we discover this great little installation of a miniature world in a tiny back lane (melbournestreettours.com).

I check into The Cullen (164 Commercial Road, Prahran; artserieshotels.com.au/Cullen), one of the Art Series hotels.

This one celebrates the world of Adam Cullen. The hotel was a joint venture with the artist and has a series of originals and prints in the public and private spaces.

Cullen worked with the hotel for a year before it opened in 2009.

DESTINATION MELBOURNE CREPES A ND COUNTR Y I’m catching an afternoon gig further up the road at Open Studio (204 High Street, Northcote; openstudio.net.au) that has “musique and crepes” seven nights a week.

We’re here for Frances Gumm Frontier (francesgummfrontier.com) an Americana/country act that packs the place. The crepes aren’t half bad either.

TOTE-A L IMMER SION SLAM (Save Live Australia’s Music; slamrally.org) was formed in 2010 when the then-government threatened venues with closure.

The Tote (67-71 Johnson Street, Collingwood; thetotehotel.com) became a lightning rod for the movement and 20,000 people hit the streets. The Tote was saved.

We’re catching UK band Shame in the sweaty downstairs band room.

14:00

16:00

GOOD NIGHT, FOL K S My last stop is The Night Cat (137-141 Johnston Street, Fitzroy; thenightcat.com.au) that doubles as a nightclubvisit-you-usually-regretin-the-morning and a gig venue in the round. Tonight platinum-blonde singersongwriter Ro is under a single spotlight giving the place a “Roadhouse from Twin Peaks” vibe surrounded by upturned red lampshades and an appreciative crowd.

19:00

A DR IE NNE

checks out some street art and checks in to an art hotel

A R T ON A PL ATE

A R TIS T IN RESIDENCE We pass the ex-studio of David Bromley (93-95 Chapel Street, Windsor; bromleyandco.com) in a historic building in Chapel Street.

It’s not open today but is used as a gallery and art space for various events and showings.

M A R S ROVING The MARS Gallery (7 James Street, Windsor; marsgallery.com.au) is a contemporary art space just off Chapel Street with a basement for video installations and a rooftop sculpture area. The gallery also has the MARS Art Apartments, artist-themed studio rooms above the gallery.

At Atlas Dining (133 Commercial Road, South Yarra; atlasdining.com.au), chef Charlie Carrington switches cuisines every four months. When we dine it’s Peruvian, and each course of the tasting menu could easily be hung in a gallery – but I’m eating mine!

FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors, get in touch.

tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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where we’re going we don’t need roads

A family off-road adventure on Fraser Island delivers natural beauty and a few thrills and spills. Paul Chai goes on his first four-wheel drive holiday.

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FRASER ISLAND

“I

WORDS XXXX IMAGES DESTINATION NSW;

t’s like a bushwalk on wheels,” declares my wife on the second day of a family four-wheel drive adventure around Queensland’s Fraser Island. We have driven to the centre of the island into the Valley of the Giants, a densely wooded forest of ancient tallowwood and satinay trees that are so high they seem to be dropping right out of the clear blue sky.

It’s incredible to think that these towering trunks are growing out of sand, but Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the world.

The secret is a fungi in the sand that allows the plants to absorb nutrients. Then, as smaller plants like spinifex take hold, the roots spread across the sand creating a net that helps stabilise the island. Fast-forward millions of years and we’re standing in a forest that looks like it might still contain a T-rex or two, next to a clear rainwater stream so pure we can fill our drinking bottles in it.

This is my second trip to the World Heritage Listed wonder and the first under my own steam – my first doing any off-road driving at all, in fact. We’re in a borrowed Isuzu MU-X, brand new and up for the task. If I end up digging us out of a sand drift, it certainly won’t be the car’s fault. Mark at Isuzu has also lent me a pair of Maxtrax, a kind of orange car ski that doubles as a shovel because, unlike the trees, I don’t have millions of years to adapt to the sand.

On my first Fraser Island visit I came on foot and took the Beauty Spots bus tour, a greatest-hits package of the island’s natural stunners. Being on our own has already deepened my appreciation for the diversity of the island’s terrain, and the four-wheel driving is surprisingly fun. The soft sand feels like steering on marshmallows. Hitting the “Fraser Island highway” of 75 Mile Beach is exhilarating, and at one point we have to stop and shoo a metre-long lace monitor from dawdling along in front of the car.

And now we’re standing amongst the moss-covered trunks and leaf litter of an impossible forest. ê

4WD driving tips TIDE TIMES Check with the Bureau of Meteorology site (bom.gov.au).

Waddy Point is the best timing for Fraser Island.

DRIVING PERMITS These can be arranged in advance online (qld.gov.au) or purchased at Kingfisher Bay Resort or the Fraser Island Ferry.

PERSONALISED R ANGER-GUIDED TOURS Tours of the island (in a 4WD) leave from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you can choose your own island itinerary).

TAKE A GROUP TOUR The one-day “Beauty Spots” tour departs Kingfisher Bay Resort daily.

HIRE A 4WD If you head to island on foot and suddenly get the urge, you can hire four-wheel drive vehicles when you’re there.

Courtesy of Kingfisher Bay Resort

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A slice of rocky road

Rangerguided Night Walk Kingfisher Bay Resort has plenty of activities, but a highlight is the Night Walk. On our walk, Indigenous ranger Jermaine “Jay” La Rocca takes us on a nighttime prowl around the swamp mahogany and she-oaks that ring the resort. We see sugar gliders, micro bats and the island’s native – and very dangerous – funnel web spiders.

Jay teaches us to spot an animal, or insect, by its eyeshine.

This headlight-like reflection behind the eyes is best spotted by looking down the barrel of your torch, and my two boys become expert at spotting the frightening number of arachnids residing in the leaf litter.

We wander down the jetty where Jay shows us feeding stingrays, “George” the green sea turtle and a lone, madly paddling prawn. Since returning to the island Jay has specialised in conveying his Indigenous knowledge – the traditional name of the island is K’gari – to visitors via these walks and advice (it was Jay that sent us to the Valley of the Giants).

Chomping on a vanillaflavoured midjum berry, growing wild by the side of the road, my two kids declare this walk a trip highlight, then they head off to spot a monstrous huntsman, or 10.

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That’s not to say four-wheel driving doesn’t come with its challenges, the first of which arrives very quickly. Our base for this adventure is the Kingfisher Bay Resort, an eco-resort hidden amongst the foliage on the western side of the island. Our family cabin is right next to the entrance to the Great Sandy National Park, and on our first morning of off-road action I approach cautiously along the sealed road before switching to 4WD on the dirt.

Then we discover what we dub “The Rollercoaster.” As if testing the uninitiated, the first sandy track into the park – just metres from the bitumen – is a series of hair-raising dips that would make Disneyland proud. My passengers make liberal use of the “Jesus bar” to steady themselves as we plunge headlong into the park. If only we could purchase a photo of our faces when we reach the bottom.

On day one we play it safe and pretty much copy the Beauty Spots tour. Our first stop is Lake McKenzie. This much-visited spot is a “perched” lake that contains only rainwater.

The purity of the water and the white silica sand filter combine to make the water as clear as cling-wrap. The boys and I take turns swimming to the “dark patch” where the depth plunges and the bottom darkens because of the web of organic matter from the surrounding trees that acts as a plug to keep the rainwater in. Even in the early morning it’s crowded, so we head off as more and more swimmers arrive.

FRASER ISLAND

Trip details THE CAR 4x4 Isuzu MU-X SUV LSU, courtesy of Isuzu Ute; isuzuute.com.au.

A mix of comfort and grunt, this automatic was perfect for a firsttimer with simple engagement of the 4x4 option and great handling on the highways. I expected to be digging myself out at least once, but it never happened. Not sure I can take the credit for that.

THE DISTANCE 710km round trip from Brisbane to the barge at River Heads, which heads across to Kingfisher Bay Resort.

THE ACCOMMODATION

The car is listing and leaning its way through the tracks, but I’m getting a feel for the sand driving. I relax a little and allow the kids to crank some tunes. By lunch we arrive at Eurong Beach Resort and grab some pies at the bakery. This resort is right on 75 Mile Beach and is the sister property to Kingfisher Bay. It’s also where I see my first bogged car, a group of backpackers digging themselves out of the soft-sand entrance to the resort.

We glide past at the right speed and make it onto the hard sand of the beach.

It’s bang on low tide when we set out, the best time to drive along this huge stretch of beach that‘s also one of the unique coastal roads in the world with a speed limit of 80km/h. There’s a real sense of freedom when we roll down the windows and drive to a new soundtrack of crashing waves, but this is no time for cruise control. This is a dangerous stretch of road with traffic, pedestrians, small-aircraft landings and sudden dips in the sand from freshwater streams running out to sea. Keep your wits about you, though, and it’s a road trip to remember.

Kingfisher Bay Resort is the gateway to the World Heritage wilderness of Fraser Island. The resort is on the western bay and its sister resort, Eurong Beach Resort, is on the eastern beach (which is only accessible by 4WD).

Our accommodation was a Family Villa with easy access to the 4WD tracks around the island.

The main building also has a range of dining options, from the upmarket Seabelle restaurant to the Maheno bar and restaurant.

The resort also offers the Sand Bar and the Jetty Bar for visitors to the island. The resort has plenty of activities from day trips to the Night Walks. See the printed guide in your room.

O U R I S U Z U M U -X T A K E S ON 75 MILE BEACH AT FRASER ISLAND

First stop is the much Insta’d, rusted hulk of the SS Maheno. It slumbers on the sand right on the tideline after being beached by a cyclone in 1935.

We park, jump out and wade around the corroded skeleton before heading further north. We check the map and get a reminder of just how big Fraser is – we won’t make it as far as we’d hoped, so we double back for a dip in the island’s “lazy river.”

The largest creek on the eastern coast, Eli Creek has a boardwalk running beside it where people grab a flotation device, walk upstream and float with the strong current to the creek mouth.

The boys manage a few trips before we have to leave to get back to the resort before dark. ê

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FRASER ISLAND

Getting brave The following morning I’m up for a challenge, so, with some expert advice from a Kingfisher Bay Resort ranger, we make for the Valley of the Giants. It’s a more challenging drive due mainly to the many sudden appearance of gnarled tree roots in our path, but it’s worth it and we don’t see another vehicle all morning.

Our next stop is the Lake Wabby lookout, where we take the walk down to the slow-motion sand wave that is the Hammerstone Sandblow. This awesome natural phenomenon sees the beach sand blown between the gaps in the trees to form a giant dune that swallows the forest over thousands of years. Currently, it stands at 65 metres above sea level and stretches 2.5km inland. You can see a snapshot of this gradual annihilation as you approach the sandblow where mature trees jut out of a wall of encroaching sand that will eventually envelop them (it advances at a rate of one metre per year).

“We take the walk down to the slow-motion sand wave that is the Hammerstone Sandblow” KINGFISHER BAY RESORT IS THE GATEWAY TO FRASER ISLAND

There’s a creepy inevitability to this place that’s not helped by the crying sand we find at the top of the sandblow. The wind blows the sand off the peak and it appears to flow down as tears. We declare Lake Wabby itself a little too “bunyippy” for a dip and instead use our final afternoon to head back to where we started at Lake McKenzie.

One of the joys of a self-drive holiday is running to your own timetable, and we turn up at this popular spot as the buses begin to head off. By sundown we’re one of just a handful of swimmers in the starkly beautiful body of water, a natural aberration as magical as it is unlikely.

We arrive back to Kingfisher Bay Resort and head for our now-regular sundowner at the Jetty Bar, perfectly placed to watch the sun set over the jetty that brings visitors to the island from River Head. The sky turns a bright orange and I’m proudly reminded of the unused Maxtrax in the boot of my Isuzu. I might just warm to this four-wheel driving lark.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane from six destinations; tigerair.com.au

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The new

NEWCAS The iconic steel town is undergoing an immense change. Matt Shea tells you why you need to visit right now.

ALL PHOTOS DESTINATION NSW

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NEWCASTLE

C

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hris Joannou could live anywhere.

Sydney. Los Angeles. New York.

That’s the way it’s supposed to go, anyway. Small-town boy joins globe-trotting rock band. Settles in the big smoke. Maybe opens an art gallery. Something like that.

Instead, Chris Joannou is hosting a meeting of Newcastle small business owners.

The 38-year-old is best known as the bassist for Silverchair, one of Australia’s most iconic bands of the last 20 years. Right now, though, he’s head down in a deep discussion regarding the future of the small New South Wales city.

You might not have heard, but something special is happening in Newcastle. Once a rigidly blue-collar industrial town, in recent years it has transformed itself into a dynamic pocket city cradling a number of up-and-coming industries: tech start-ups, hospitality, agriculture, education, health and tourism.

“I spent a solid 10 years living away from Newcastle. From a distance, I could see this great groundswell,” Joannou says. “And to be honest, I don’t think Newcastle is even halfway to reaching its potential. It’s changing in front of our eyes.”

It’s not hyperbole. Cranes dot the skyline.

New developments are under way. Car yards, factories and workshops have moved out; restaurants, bars and boutiques are moving in. Perhaps most obvious (and controversial, in its degree of disruption) is the installation of a light rail connection along Hunter Street from Newcastle Interchange to the eastern end of the city.

It’s a stark change from the Newcastle Joannou knew as a kid. Back then it was school, mates and long, lazy days spent knocking around Merewether to the south. “It was a great place to grow up as a kid,” he says.

“You had everything right on your doorstep.”

The other resounding memory Joannou has of his childhood is the 1989 Newcastle earthquake (Silverchair would eventually write a song about the disaster, “Faultline”, in 1995).

Newcastle’s boom is providing the impetus to finally plaster over the few remaining scars of that day, but Joannou reckons the city has been reflecting on the need to change ê

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“That’s deep in the DNA of Newcastle,” he says. “I don’t think it will ever change.

Living in Carrington, you hear the horns of bulk carriers at two in the morning.

I absolutely love it.”

EAT & DRINK Scotties Seafood and Bar Few venues short-hand the change sweeping through Newcastle like Scotties.

Once an unfussy fish and chipper, these days you’ll find it slinging highfalutin items such as white anchovies in EVOO olive oil, kingfish carpaccio, and crab and papaya salad. The food is brilliant, the al fresco location – under festoon lights outside an old Scott Street Terrace – even better.

36 Scott Street, Newcastle East; scottiescafe.com.au

The Williams Bar since late 70s and early 80s. Everyone recognised the potential. “It’s just taken us a little longer to get through the dialogue,” he says.

Joannou encapsulates that change.

After continually touring with Silverchair and living away from Newcastle for 10

coming on strong. It was a nice changing of the guard. One hundred per cent it reflects what’s going on around the city.”

The result is The Edwards (148 Parry Street, Newcastle West; theedwards.com.au).

It’s a brilliant space, impeccably furnished in tiles, concrete and wood. On any

“Newcastle was a great place to grow up as a kid. You had everything right on your doorstep“ years, he returned home. “I always wanted to come back and open my own venue,” he says. “In 2014, it was the right time.”

The right time turned out to be Joannou’s parents looking to hang up the gloves at their drive-through drycleaning business in Newcastle West.

Locals thought Joannou was crazy when he wanted to convert the space into a restaurant and bar.

“My parents moved the business 15 years ago and there was nothing else here,” he says. “People thought we were mad [to take it over] but the whole area is

Trying to find The Williams Bar? Just look for the stained-glass arches of Longworth House on Scott Street. Sneak down the neon-lit hallway and you’re there. Built in 1892, this magnificent ballroom with its period furniture comes alive on Friday and Saturday nights, punters arriving for happy-hour drinks and then staying put for produce-driven share plates of ciderbraised mussels and slow-cooked brisket.

Get there early to grab a seat.

129 Scott Street, Newcastle; longworth.com.au/williams-bar ê

given Friday or Saturday night, the venue overflows with locals debriefing their weeks over schooners of craft beer and plates of pork belly and short rib.

“We’re a restaurant and bar, but at the end of the day we have a huge focus on events,” Joannou says. “It’s about engaging with the community.”

These days, Joannou the beach kid lives on the other side of the city in Carrington, right next to the coal port.

He likes it there, he says, where Newcastle’s rough-hewn collar won’t be bleached anytime soon.

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Connect with Natureâ„¢

CERTIFIED VEGAN

CERTIFIED ORGANIC

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New Zealand DISCOVER YOURS AT: David Jones, Priceline, Chemist Warehouse, National Pharmacies, selected Myer and Malouf Pharmacies, Great Earth stores, and Adorebeauty.com.au, independent pharmacies and health stores nationwide.

NEWCASTLE NEWCASTLE LOCALS SPENDING A DAY AT THE BATHS Taylor, this is about as refined as it comes in the Hunter. Taylor’s menu is superb, peddling kingfish sashimi, house-smoked trout and a fabulous, fragrant seafood chowder. Aim for a lunch date, when you can sit at the window and watch the surf roll in on the rocks below.

5 Henderson Parade, Newcastle; surfhouse.com.au

FogHorn Brewhouse

“The omelette with market-fresh crab is arguably one of the best in town“

when it comes to its long list of glutenfree and vegan-friendly bowls. The food is delivered via Swiss-precise service and washed down with coffee from Melbourne’s Proud Mary, one of the country’s best roasters. It’s an essential stop on Newcastle’s hip Darby Street.

127 Darby Street, Cooks Hill; theautumnrooms.com.au

Cirque Cafe Cirque flips its weekday lunches at a fierce clip – all the better for the busy solicitors, barristers and doctors who frequent the place. Still, this fabulous terrace also pumps during weekend breakfasts, punters drawn in by owner-chef Keith Murray’s knack for cleverly refining the classics.

Eggs Benedict is levelled up with pulled pork, while an omelette with market-fresh crab is arguably one of the best in town.

Ask for your Belaroma coffee takeaway so you can explore the area.

8 Bolton Street, Newcastle; facebook.com/Cirquecafe

Baked Uprising Baked Uprising sits on a tiny Maryville side street that was once home to Polish factory workers (they used to be collected each day by tram, Uprising co-owner Alice Lees will tell you). A thriving hub for locals, Lees and husband Kyle Liston deal in crisp, golden-baked breads and an intimidating selection of pies, pastries and cakes. Go for a loaf of light rye if you’re staying in one of the Airbnbs in the area. Otherwise, grab-ngo a tart or two before taking off to explore Newcastle West.

21-25 Downie Street, Maryville; bakeduprising.com.au

A phenomenal brewpub right in the heart of the city, this former Ford dealership comes alive on Friday and Saturday nights with revellers keen to tackle its extensive list of brews. Maybe try a 4 Saisons in One Day saison, and then follow it up with an Ideas pale ale. FogHorn also does a roaring trade in New York-style pizza, Philly cheese steaks and low-and-slow barbecue.

Come early, come thirsty, come hungry.

218 King Street, Newcastle; foghornbrewhouse.com.au

Bolton Street Pantry Bolton Street Pantry occupies the ground floor of an unassuming block of apartments on Bolton Street in a sleepy corner of the CBD. Not that you’d know it. Owner Zach Levien has kept the space bare and open to the elements, giving it a raw, honest and sophisticated ê

The Autumn Rooms Part of a fresh wave of cafes in Newcastle looking to take food and beverage to another level, The Autumn Rooms treats dietary requirements as an opportunity rather than a hindrance — particularly

Merewether Surfhouse Restaurant When it comes to pushing the boat out in Newcastle, there are few places better to do it than Merewether Surfhouse. With a brand-new menu from local icon Lesley

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feel. The menu is sophisticated too.

Opt for a ham toastie or poached eggs if you want, but you’re better off going for eastern eggs with chilli and harissa, or zucchini and corn teff fritters. Wash it all down with expertly made coffee using The Grounds coffee from Sydney.

45 Bolton Street, Newcastle; boltonstpantry.com

DO Fort Scratchley The grandaddy of local attractions, Fort Scratchley is about as Hunter as the Newcastle Knights. It’s the only coastal fortification to ever fire on an enemy naval vessel (a Japanese submarine in 1942), but that’s just one of the many pieces of its fascinating history you’ll learn on Scratchley’s brilliant tunnel tours. Give yourself an hour underground and you’ll feel transported to another era.

Nobbys Road, Newcastle East; newcastle.nsw.gov.au/Fort-Scratchley

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Newcastle Art Gallery Newcastle Art Gallery punches well above its weight. Its exhibitions tap an enviable collection of ceramics and paintings from the likes of Gretchen Albrecht, Richard Browne and William Dobell. Coming up are two shows in particular: Corpus, an interrogation of the body via various mediums; and an

exhibition of the work of local printmaker Patricia Wilson-Adams.

1 Laman Street, Newcastle; nag.org.au

VRXP Studio If you need a primer on Newcastle’s newfound love for tech, you’ll find it at VRXP. Andy and Emily Gallagher have flipped their respective backgrounds

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in commercial film and public relations into a high-end, room-scale virtual reality experience right in the centre of the city.

It’s terrific fun as the Gallaghers walk you through a bunch of digital encounters of increasing intensity, finishing with a dare to walk out across a plank above a city skyline. Yes, it’s tougher than it sounds.

20 Watt Street, Newcastle; vrxp.com.au

BYKKO Newcastle lends itself to exploration by two wheels. One of the best options is BYKKO, a bike-sharing service first established as part of a state government pilot program investing in “on-demand” public transport. BYKKO has a bunch of electric bikes for hire that will easily power you up and over the hill to Merewether, meaning there’s no need to break a sweat.

Various locations; bykko.com.au

The Cambridge Hotel There are few band rooms in Australia as storied as the Cambridge Hotel. It has hosted everyone from Silverchair to the Misfits and the Buzzcocks. To this day, the venue continues to stage some of the best local and international artists: Riff Raff, Waax, Spit Syndicate, British India and the Preatures all have gigs booked between June and August. Intimate without being claustrophobic, loud but not ear-splitting, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better place in Australia to see live music.

789 Hunter Street, Newcastle West; thecambridgehotel.com.au

Olive Tree Market Try to time your visit to new Newcastle with this brilliant monthly market event, which packs stallholders from all across the region into Newcastle Civic Park.

There are plenty of food options, but this is more about small artisans and designers: maybe jewellery by Oscar & Matilda, candles from Fragrant Flames, and ceramics by Good Grief Ceramics.

Regardless, simply loitering under the trees of Civic Park for a few hours is an unbeatable way to spend the morning.

Civic Park on King Street, Newcastle; theolivetreemarket.com.au

Newcastle Museum Start your trip here for a primer on Newcastle’s storied history as a centre for industry and immigration. Exhibitions continually rotate through the venue, but a permanent feature is “Fire and Earth”, which weaves together the city’s history in coal and steel. An audiovisual presentation of life at BHP might sound daggy but is actually a dramatic and surprisingly

touching look at the steel-making process.

Catch it if you can.

6 Workshop Way, Newcastle; newcastlemuseum.com.au

STAY Quest Newcastle West Occupying the former premises of the Newcastle Museum, Quest Newcastle West’s handsome heritage-listed digs actually started life as a brewery. You can see the history in the photos around the rooms, and also the vertiginous walls and vaulted ceilings with their exposed beams.

Right on Hunter Street, these modern, spacious rooms and apartments are nevertheless whisper-quiet. It’s one of the best new hotels in Newcastle and, right near the Interchange, a perfect place from which to explore the surrounding neighbourhood.

787 Hunter Street, Newcastle; questapartments.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Sydney from eight destinations; tigerair.com.au

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$36 $22

ROUTE MAP

Where to next?

Tigerair Australia serves 13 destinations right across the country

tigerair bases

darwin

cairns townsville whitsunday coast

brisbane gold coast coffs harbour perth

sydney canberra (act)

adelaide

FOR AN UP-TO-THE-MINUTE LIST OF OUR DESTINATIONS, VISIT TIGERAIR.COM.AU

melbourne (tullamarine) hobart

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THE TIGERAIR GUIDE TO...

Outdoors

Winter

Baby, it’s cold outside, so here are the hottest things to do on the Tigerair network this winter

BY CONNOR MCLEOD

Whale Watching Sydney The colder weather down south means it’s time for the annual whale migration. From around May to October you can spot humpback whales – and others if you’re lucky – making their way up the NSW coast to warmer waters.

Whale Watching Sydney has a range of cruises to take you up close to the action as the whales breach and play on their way up north – choose from options like a three-hour Discovery Cruise or the popular Sunset Cruise option.

Sydney whalewatchingsydney.net

The Overland Track Tasmanians aren’t afraid of a bit of cold weather (see “Embrace winter in Tasmania” on page 13), and one of

the best outdoor options is the frosty peaks of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. If you’re lucky, the beautiful scenery will be dusted in a covering of frost, or even snow, but it’s stunning all year round. Try a guided walk with the Tasmanian Walking Co. Hobart taswalkingco.com.au

QVM Winter Night Market Melbourne’s Queen Victoria Market fills with the smells of barbecue and mulled wine on a wintry night as the stalls open for the annual Winter Night Market. You can shop, dine or grab a drink and watch some live music. The nocturnal markets are a lively way to see this iconic market differently, and make for a great night out.

Melbourne thenightmarket.com.au

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W I N T E R

Indoors

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Handpicked Wines

Truffle dinner

In the Kensington Street food precinct head into Handpicked Wines urban cellar door for a winter warmer. Handpicked make their own wines from all over Australia, and the world, and ship it into their city cellar door. There you can try their whimsical cheese and wine flights, like the “I Need a Vacay”, which matches wines like a Margaret River cabernet with cheese like a milk robiola from Italy.

Sydney handpickedwines.com.au

The colder weather is the perfect time to sample Western Australia’s famous Manjimup truffles, and Fraser’s Restaurant in Perth’s Kings Park celebrate this posh produce with a seven-course tasting menu each year.

Held on July 26, the meal is all about the famous fungus. The menu is perfectly matched with some WA tipples as well.

Perth frasersrestaurant.com.au

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Beautiful: the Carole King Musical Straight from Broadway, the story of one of pop’s greatest voices hits the stage at the Lyric Theatre in Brisbane for a limited run. In the 60s, songwriters from all over America headed to the Brill building in New York, which was churning out hit after hit. One such hopeful was Carole King. This play looks at her story while celebrating all her songs, until August 19.

Brisbane beautifulmusical.com.au

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W I N T E R

THE SPOT

A

Groundwater Country Music Festival

s if the colder weather down south wasn’t enough incentive for travelling north, the end of July brings some of country music’s finest to Broadbeach for a festival that takes over the whole suburb.

The Groundwater Country Music Festival is free, and also the fastestgrowing country music festival in the country, attracting huge crowds to watch acts like Suzanne Vega from the US and locals James Blundell.

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Festival director Mark Duckworth says it’s the variety of the festival that appeals to all ages. “In programming this festival, it’s important for us to cover all the bases in Australian country music and give a spotlight to both the veterans and the artists of the future,” he says. “There’s such a cool variety coming to Groundwater in 2018, all with a different style of story to share.”

Last year over 50,000 people hit the streets of Broadbeach to watch

the many acts on stages and also in the area’s restaurants and bars, and this year’s line-up is just as promising. Headlining the event are Golden Guitar-winners the McClymonts as well as Granger Smith from the US. Also on the bill are Catherine Britt & The Cold, Cold Hearts, Troy Kemp and the tribute Travellin’ Still: the Songs of Slim Dusty.

For more information, visit, groundwatercmf.com

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W I N T E R Family

Sea Life Sydney Recently, Sea Life Sydney became home to three turtles for the first time.

Dave, Chong and Myrtle joined the Darling Harbour family following the closure of Manly Sea Life Sanctuary.

Sea Life Sydney has also announced an exciting new $5 million home for its much-loved turtles will open later this year. The interactive new experience – “Day and Night on the Reef” – will take guests on a colourful journey of the world-famous Great Barrier Reef.

In the meantime, check out the regular attractions at Sea Life this winter.

Sydney sydneyaquarium.com.au

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Coffs Harbour Butterfly House Take a walk among hundreds of butterfly species at the Coffs Harbour Butterfly House. You can watch the full life cycle of these amazing creatures and watch them fly around and feed, particularly during their most active period that is from 10am2pm. The kids will also love the on-site maze, where you have to navigate an outdoor hedge maze to discover hidden clues. You can take a break in the cafe and gift shop.

Coffs Harbour butterflyhouse.com.au

Mindil Beach Sunset Market It might not be cold up north but it’s the dry season now, and that means the popular Mindil Beach Market – a sunset strip of Asian food stalls as well as gifts, clothes and sundries – right on the beachfront is on again. Did you know this must-do Darwin attraction contributes $15 million a year to the Northern Territory economy? When you see the crowds that show up here from Thursday to Sunday, you’ll have no doubt as to why.

Darwin mindil.com.au

the tale end

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