Tigertales February - March 2019

tigertales

TAKE ME AWAY

Australia | February – March 2019

DOUBLE TROUBLE ➔ Comedians Double Denim help you straighten up and fly right with expert fashion and packing advice

H O L I D AY O V E R D R I V E

W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S

SUNSET STUDIES

Take a ride with our creative road trippers

Two different travellers take on Coffs Harbour

Two summits, two sunsets in the Victorian alps

A QUiET LITTLE ADVENTURE.

SHARE YOUR QUIET LITTLE MOMENTS #TassieStyle

GOBEHINDTHESCENERY.COM.AU

B lu e

Derby

Mo un t

ain Bike Trails © Kane Naara at and Pinkbike.com

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F LY T O T H E W H I T S U N DAY C OA S T A I R P O RT ( P P P )

A N D TA K E A D VA N TA G E O F T H I S H O T D E A L . . .

W H I T S U N DAY S

7 NIGHTS FOR $999 PER DEAL

I NC LU DE S : 7 nights accommodation in a 1, 2 or 3 bedroom apartment.

Choose from a variety of hotels in Airlie Beach.

BONUS bottle of wine BONUS 12pm late check out Valid until 30 June 2019

athotelgroup.com.au | 1300 847 244

WELCOME ONBOARD

Tigerair connects people Air travel is a great way to foster relationships, or start new ones

W

elcome onboard and thank you for choosing to fly Tigerair Australia.

Whether you are flying to catch up with friends, see family or explore the many exciting destinations we have on offer, we are proud to help create memorable moments now and into the future.

Speaking of memorable moments, I recently heard a heart-warming story about a romance between two of our passengers that started back in 2007 on one of our Gold Coast to Melbourne services.

After settling into his seat at the beginning of his flight, Trevor struck up a conversation with fellow passenger Isla in the seat next to him. The pair bonded over a game of Sudoku during their two-hour flight and the rest, as they say, is history.

That Tigerair journey was the beginning of a blossoming relationship that led to Trevor proposing to Isla just before Christmas last year. And, of course, it was only fitting he do so with a small model Tigerair airplane!

I love Trevor and Isla’s romantic story, as it is a great reminder of the important part this airline plays in connecting people. Air travel is so much more than a means to get from point A to point B. We know that your travel experience starts well before you step on our plane, and we are continually looking at ways to improve your entire journey with us, from the moment you decide to make a booking with

“From the sunny beaches of Queensland to Melbourne’s restaurants, we have you covered” Tigerair. We have recently enhanced our web check-in and mobile app to make your online experience more seamless and efficient, and we have many more exciting innovations in the pipeline that I will be able to share soon. So stay tuned.

With the holiday season now well and truly behind us, this is a great time to start planning your next well-deserved getaway. We fly to 12 exciting destinations across Australia, so whether you are seeking the sun-soaked beaches of Queensland or indulging in the world-class restaurant scene in Melbourne, we

have you covered. Remember to book early to secure our best value deals, as they are snapped up very quickly.

And as always, here at Tigerair we remain focused on delivering convenient, great value options for travel, so you can experience new destinations with your friends and loved ones without breaking the bank.

We hope you have enjoyed a great start to 2019 and we look forward to welcoming you back onboard again soon.

Happy travels!

Merren McArthur Tigerair Australia CEO

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CONTENTS

Destination directory Inside this issue… wherever you’re going, we’ve got you covered

See the reef-inspired Cairns street art

55 GO LIKE A LO C A L

s y dne y Our local's guide to the Harbour City

F E AT U R E

mel bour ne

ENCOUNTER

p er t h

Comedians Double Denim on how to pack like a boss

Hit the best beaches in the west

21

39

94 58 ENCOUNTER

t ime t r av el See fossils in the Flinders Ranges near Adelaide

Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Designer Cynthia Lau Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott

Advertising National Advertising Manager Carla D’Agrosa (02) 8188 3668 carla@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestar Web

Cover photo Double Denim at the Hotel Esplanade, St Kilda, photographed by Samara Clifford

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Management Financial Controller Phung Vuong Director Jim Flynn Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au

The best in farm-to-table dining

© 2019 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder.

Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

THE POINTY END We have your next great travel stor y

Enjoy a break on the Perth coast 39 – 40

rt et a tre ds re pi ns

in Cairns ê S p end

ou orian m ntains ê T t c i V ake he t af in oo g d ki in h

Best beaches in the west

rs Ranges ê T Flinde o u r th lia's stra e re Au e th f-i ou

ie

st Gippsland ê F a E ind p to i fos r t sils d a in o r S

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s u m m er

THE POINTY END

T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O

OU T A ND A BOU T

S P OR T

HOW C I T I E S WOR K Living in our cities every day we can take our homes for granted, but a new exhibition at the Museum of Sydney delves into the interesting stories behind our modern metropolises.

For a look at the effort involved in building a city, visit this interactive addition to the Museum of Sydney.

Sydney; until July 21 sydneyliving museums.com.au

TRUE GRIT True Grit – the obstaclepacked 10-12km endurance event – is back with a calendar of events across Queensland, South Australia and New South Wales to suit all ages and fitness levels. Take on a fun fitness challenge and find your event at the True Grit website.

Nationwide truegrit.com.au

F OOD

S HAR K C AGE D I V I NG Awarded South Australia’s Best Adventure Tour in 2018, Calypso Star Charters operate Advanced EcoCertified marine wildlife encounters in Port Lincoln.

Established in 1990, they provide a safe, exciting and sustainable experience.

Adelaide sharkcagediving.com.au

S OU T H M E LB OU R N E N IGH T M AR K E T Summer nights and great market food are the draw at the South Melbourne Night Market, with music and entertainment for some added spice.

Spend your Thursday nights in February here.

Melbourne southmelbourne nightmarket.com.au

DR INK T H E S T E YN E In 1859 Henry Gilbert Smith took a punt and built a hotel right on the beachfront at Manly. Manly wasn’t cool then, and a lack of a breakwall meant the pub was swept away once or twice, but now The Steyne is a fixture of the Sydney summer drinking scene.

Sydney hotelsteyne.com.au

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THE TOUR DE BRISBANE This mega cycling event raises funds for the Amy Gillett Foundation by celebrating the best of Brisbane with safe, fun rides across 110km, 45km and 8km closed-road courses.

Whether you’re going for a pedal or the podium, there’s a ride for you.

Brisbane; April 14 tourdebrisbane.org

BEER INCIDER Music, beer and cider pretty much describes a perfect day, but when the tunes are provided by DMA’s, Something for Kate and WAAX you have a serious new contender on the festival circuit. Beer Incider is you new best fest.

Brisbane and Melbourne; March 2 and 9 beerincider.com

T H E P R I NCE D I N I NG R O O M We called it in the last issue: St Kilda is back! And hot on the heels of the Prince Bandroom revamp comes a stunning new Prince Dining Room, part of the multi-million-dollar renovation of the Melbourne landmark. Led by exec chef Dan Hawkins (Circa, Longrain) expect hero veggie dishes and a light, bright space.

Melbourne theprince.com.au

A Room with a Zoo Experience the unforgettable...

Giraffe Treehouse

uShaka lodge

Jamala dining

Jungle Bungalow

WINNER - Best Deluxe Accommodation in Australia*

NATURALLY! A unique animal lodge located in Canberra, rated by local and overseas celebrities and guests as one of the best in the world.

02 6287 8444 | info@jamalawildlifelodge.com.au *2017 Australian Hotels Association Awards for Excellence

www.jamala.com.au

NO

T HE

W

SH

OW

ING

NTARCTICA

EXPERIENCE A V I RT U A L REALITY A DV E N T U R E A N TA RCT I CA AS YOU’VE N EVER S EEN IT B EFO RE

An immersive theatre experience on show in Canberra at the

national museum of australia Book now nma.gov.au/antarctica

Image © Charles Millen/Australian Antarctic Division

THE POINTY END

Find a feast in East Gippsland

WORDS PAUL CHAI

W

hen you google Lonsdale Eco Cruises on the Gippsland Lakes, the first photo that comes up is of co-owner Mel Fredericks’ colossal scones. These behemoths appear about halfway through the cruise, cooked on board by Mel (with help from her granddaughter today). They are plate-sized, fluffy and light, each scone topped with enough cream to fill a sponge cake. The passengers descend on them like seagulls to a hot chip.

This is the second feeding frenzy of the morning. The first happened just as we attempted to leave Lakes Entrance marina.

Our captain, Tony Fredericks – like Mel, a fourth-generation Gippslander – took us out to the breakwater to see the small colony of fur seals; furry missiles ricocheting off the piers and through the choppy waves. Then we headed for the Gippsland Lakes... but we hit a traffic jam.

As we cruised through a narrow channel, the fur seals met up with a pod of dolphins all chasing schools of fish – perch, bream and tailor – forcing them to the surface. The fish drew the local birdlife – cormorants, pelicans and terns – that skimmed the water in front of the boat like a cloud shadow. Passengers didn’t know where to point their phone next.

The resulting mayhem even seemed to impress our hardened captain, Tony, who remarked laconically, “I’m glad all these birds are around us and not over us,” as he slowed the boat to a crawl behind the fauna free-for-all.

East of everywhere Gippsland takes up a huge slice of south-east Victoria and is known for wineries, produce, the aforementioned lakes and the region’s freakishly large earthworms. But we’re here to focus on

ê

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THE POINTY END

THE GIPPSL AND L AKES ARE HOME TO SOME AMAZING SEAFOOD

Where to stay

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THE ESPL ANADE RESORT & SPA

THE RIVERSLEIGH

Just on your left as you arrive in Lakes Entrance, this family resort offers goodsized rooms with a pool and spa to keep the kids busy, a great base for exploring the Entrance and neighbouring Lake Tyers Beach. At the latter, check out the general store and art gallery with works by owner and photographer Scott Kingman – also a member of the Screaming Jets.

1 The Esplanade; esplanaderesort.com.au

A boutique stay comprised of two historic stately homes, The Riversleigh is placed perfectly if you want to head out to Paynesville and enjoy a lunch at Sardine – but be back in time for sunset, when you can climb out your window to your own private balcony and enjoy a Sailors Grave brew.

1 Nicholson Street, Bairnsdale; riversleigh.com.au

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the eastern corner of this huge rural expanse.

An emerging foodie hot spot, it appears East Gippsland is spelt with a silent ‘F’ at the front as we sample local wines, drink quirky brews and enjoy meals inspired by the abundance of seafood we see first-hand on our Lonsdale cruise.

Before hitting the lakes we get our first taste of the east at Albert & Co (201 Esplanade, Lakes Entrance) a waterfront diner that takes its cues from the white-washed ships’ hulls opposite and its soundtrack from the world of indie rock. It’s a locals-first approach with whipped Shadows of Blue Gippsland goat cheese on a house brioche roll and Gippsland Jersey milk in our Five Senses coffee. I go for the “Uncle Ben” – poached eggs from down the road in Forge Creek sitting on a bed of smoked ham hock and a house muffin topped with apple cider hollandaise and micro herbs.

Lunch is pretty much taken care of by Mel’s scones, but come evening we’re spending the night at the Metung Hotel (Kurnai Avenue, Metung; metunghotel.com.au), a local pub first sighted as we cruise past it with Lonsdale. It’s a pure waterfront location with boardwalks out front peppered with local fishermen wetting a line.

Metung means “bend in the lake” in the

Indigenous Gunai language, and the pub has had only five owners in its 140 years. You can see why someone would be reluctant to sell: the intimate front bar sees drinkers chatting under a huge mounted marlin, and the restaurant books out on weekends as specials like grilled snapper in citrus beurre blanc, scallops and polenta fly out of a busy kitchen.

We’re all in this together What quickly becomes evident on our trip is the spirit of collaboration between the players in the East Gippsland food scene – not just between producers and venues, but also between the restaurants themselves. In these waterside locales, a rising tide really does lift all boats.

We’ve moved on to Bairnsdale where we start the day at Northern Ground (144 Main Street, Bairnsdale; facebook.com/northerngroundfood), so named for chef Rob Turner who hails from West Yorkshire in the north of England.

Rob started out as a development chef for upmarket UK retailer Marks & Spencer before taking over Northern Ground and changing the way the cafe – an art-bedecked alcove on Bairnsdale’s main drag – did things.

SIMPLY PERFEC T SEAFOOD: DIVE INTO A LONG LUNCH AT SARDINE

“When I got here there was no collaboration, but now everyone is getting together and shaking things up”

“When I got here there was no collaboration,” Rob tells us over breakfast. “But now it’s getting better between the restaurants, between the suppliers and between the growers. Everyone is getting together and shaking things up.”

Northern Ground is serving almond milk chai puddings covered in edible flowers and homemade granola – dishes you used to have to drive 300 kilometres to Melbourne to get.

For Rob, it’s the variety of produce on offer that sets East Gippsland apart from other foodie spots like the Yarra Valley. “You have the ocean 20 minutes away, the mountains two hours away,” he says. “I get fresh asparagus from Picnic Point 10 minutes away – and all this really wasn’t tapped into before.”

Rob also shares a fish supplier with our next stop, Sardine (3/69A Esplanade, Paynesville; sardineeaterybar.com), which has been the regional poster child since scoring a hat in The Age Good Food Guide 2019.

Sardine is set in a Paynesville shopfront across from the waters of Eagle Point Bay and coloured the muted greys of an ocean squall.

The restaurant is as simply treated as the fish dishes from ex Vue de Monde chef Mark Briggs (pictured opposite), whose menu changes depending on what’s swimming past.

The menu is designed for sharing and for sustainability, so Mark likes to show off less popular fish, lest the local favourites – bream ê

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THE POINTY END

“Our pan-fried gnocchi, Gippsland brie and asparagus is packed with more greens than a Dulux paint chart”

LAKES ENTRANCE MAKES A GREAT BASE FOR A FOODIE HOLIDAY

and salmon – succumb to overfishing. So we start our fish feast with duckfish tartare on a crisp wonton with shiso ponzu and the snap of a few well-placed edamame. We can’t go past the titular fish. It’s a breed that’s not to everyone’s taste, but these Lakes Entrance sardines in a coriander mojo (a herby sauce popular in the Canary Islands) are good enough to name your child after, let alone your restaurant. Roasted bug tails in a miso caramel add some sweetness to the shared table.

The collaboration here is the house brew, a Gose beer made with foraged sea figs from Sailors Grave Brewing (7 Forest Road, Orbost; sailorsgravebrewing.com), whose arty cans and offbeat ingredients make them my new favourite craft brewer by the time we head back to Melbourne.

Sailors Grave beers turn up again at a visit to winery Lightfoot & Sons (717 Wy Yung-Calulu Road, Calulu; lightfootwines.com). We taste their Gippsland pinots on a clifftop terrace where you can see the layers of limestone catching the afternoon sun.

Country cooking Our last stop on our East Gippsland odyssey may be a geographic outlier – set away from the coast in the town of Lindenow where the Mitchell River flows past farms full of fresh produce – but it’s a key player in the food scene here. Long Paddock’s (95 Main Road, Lindenow; longpaddock.com.au) reputation precedes it on our trip (“Oh, you are going to love Long Paddock!”), and it doesn’t disappoint as husband-and-wife team Anton Eisenmenger and Tanya Bertino bring their long history of fine diners to the local cafe scene.

While your meal may arrive on mismatched grandma plates, the food is simple perfection with stocks reducing for hours and meats slowcooked in the 100-year-old oven out back of this one-time bakery.

Our pan-fried gnocchi, organic Gippsland brie and local asparagus seems to be packed with more greens than a Dulux paint chart, while grain salad with roast cauliflower is full of nuts, seeds and herbs with a welcome tang of Persian fetta. And I find a new Sailors Grave beer to fall in love with.

Servings are country-big, but I can’t leave without trying the rhubarb cheesecake, a transcendent wedge of dairy that reminds me of my nan’s signature stewed fruit.

Local produce is the mantra of many in the food industry, but in East Gippsland the variety of produce and the relative newness makes it feel more genuine. And to get a taste, you just need to head out east.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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GOING ON A HOLIDAY?

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QLD

Pacific Fair Store (near Zara) Brisbane City 150 Adelaide St

Ph: 5591 8203 Ph: 3221 9911

Garden City Shopping Centre

Ph: 3849 2333

Maroochydore 50 Plaza Parade

Ph: 5479 2844

NSW Chatswood Shopping Centre

Ph: 9413 1144

Sydney City 317 Pitt St

Ph: 9264 1687

ACT Canberra Centre 125 Bunda St

Ph: 6249 7364

Canberra Civic 9 Petrie Plaza

Ph: 6247 8711

SA Adelaide City 212 Rundle St

Ph: 8223 3449

Marion Shopping Centre

Ph: 8179 4800

shopping

VIC

Melbourne City 235 Elizabeth St Camberwell 843 Burke Rd

Ph: 9602 3733 Ph: 9861 9100

Fountain Gate Shopping Centre Frankston 54-58 Wells St

Ph: 9705 4000 Ph: 9783 8160

Chadstone Shopping Centre Doncaster Shopping Centre

Ph: 9568 7800 Ph: 9848 3832

N W OPEN

IN-STORE

ONLINE

PHONE

MOBILE

All offers end 31st March 2019 or until sold out or otherwise stated. Not all stocks available all stores. Every effort is made to avoid errors in this publication, but Ted’s does not warrant the accuracy of the content of this publication and may correct any errors and may refuse to sell any product or service. Any Liability of Ted’s in respect of any part of this publication is negated to the extent permitted by law. And if liable Ted’s obligation is limited to resupply of the goods or services, or repair, or payment for customers doing so, as Ted’s chooses. Bonus products included at Ted’s normal price only.

Greensborough Shopping Centre Highpoint Shopping Centre Knox City Shopping Centre Southland Shopping Centre

Ph: 9434 3460 Ph: 9317 4477 Ph: 9800 1677 Ph: 9583 5433

teds.com.au

THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

THE OLSEN South Yarra, Melbourne

W

hy it’s worth it: Art Series Hotels like The Olsen are the closest thing there is to taking a nap in a national gallery such as the NGV or AGNSW – resting your head among the seminal works of some of Australia’s best painters and, hopefully, waking up inspired. The latest addition to the hotel range, The Fantauzzo – in honour of Australian artist Vincent Fantauzzo – is set to open in Brisbane early this year.

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Bang for your buck: One of Australia’s greatest living artists, John Olsen’s colourful abstract style is on display the moment you enter the lobby thanks to original works such as Lake Eyre, The Inland Lake and Channel Country from 2011. The Olsen is a wonderfully whimsical stay, from the compendium (“I’m full of useful things”) to the fresh cupcakes adorned with Olsen’s green tree from the painting Big Frog and Little Frog in the hotel hallways.

art of the matter The Olsen is a stay with a creative twist.

The digs: Our room has Olsen works in a browny-orange hue including a herd of giraffes that look like they’re made out of rubber. The comfy double bed sits by windows to a small balcony overlooking the action on Chapel Street, while a petite kitchenette has a microwave and sink plus plenty of mini-bar items to keep you going. On the back of the door are sliver coat hooks fashioned to look like drips of paint, and next to the entrance is a shelf of art books that celebrate the works of Olsen, Arthur Boyd and Ken Done. There’s even a set of paints and a canvas labelled “Your time to shine” in case the arty mood makes you want to pick up some paints.

Must-do experience: Spoonbill Restaurant sits adjacent to the lobby, and the menu takes its cues from John Olsen’s travels through Europe.

The artist was particularly fond of the Mediterranean and his favourite dish was paella – you’ll find one on the menu here as it served as more than just food for Olsen. He considered the dish – and its many different colours – as art on a plate and the colours and shapes of the dish filtered into his painting. Then simply head out the front door to Chapel Street and explore one of Melbourne’s liveliest strips.

The damage: Doubles from $309, bed and breakfast; artserieshotels.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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2017 Silver Tourist Attractions

• One of the most spectacular one day adventures in the world.

• Tours operate all year round departing from Port Lincoln Marina.

• Advanced Eco Certified and only one day operator licensed to berley.

• Proudly Carbon Neutral and Climate Action Leader.

• No diver experience required, all food and equipment supplied.

• Largest and stabilized vessel. Great for viewing opportunities and comfort.

• Check current and historical shark sightings online.

• Twilight Charters available during November to February.

• New COMBO TOUR the first one-day tour where you can cage dive with Great White Sharks and Swim with the Sealions all in the same day.

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Port Lincoln South Australia

Ph (08) 8682 3939 sharkcagediving.com.au

Half days tours operating from October through to May. All equipment, either lunch or breakfast and snacks provided.

Largest vessel to the Islands.

Multiple tour discounts apply if you book a shark dive.

THE POINTY END

Time travel in the Flinders Ranges

D

WORDS LAURA WATERS

“

avid Attenborough was drooling when he came here,” says Mick McKenzie, a traditional owner and local guide at Wilpena Pound Resort. For anyone with a love of fossils or curious about the evolution of life, Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, located a five-hour drive north of Adelaide, offers a unique portal into the past.

While Wilpena Pound may be the most famous landmark in the Flinders Ranges with its impressive 17-kilometre-long crater-shaped mountain range, lesser-known Brachina Gorge, an hour-and-a-half drive further north, is heralded as a “corridor through

time”. The eight-kilometre passage through layers of ochre-coloured rock is packed with fossils tracing the evolution of life over 100 million years, from simple bacteria to soft–bodied animals with shells.

The Flinders Ranges are seriously old, bandying about the kind of dates that can make your head hurt. Ripples set in stone serve as reminders of the shallow inland sea that once ebbed and flowed here, dumping sediment that began accumulating as long as a billion years ago.

Layers were compressed, trapping the remains of life, then folded, pushed up and eroded to create the outback mountain ranges of today. ê

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THE POINTY END

The details Wilpena Pound Resort is the only accommodation in IkaraFlinders Ranges National Park offering campsites, hotel rooms or glamping safari tents. Bookings for the Time Travel & Gorgeous Gorges 4WD Tour can be made through the resort. The park also offers Aboriginal rock art, bushwalks and scenic flights. wilpenapound.com.au

Our interpreter through this mind-boggling time capsule is Mick, a cheeky mountain of a man with a snow-white beard. He drives us by 4WD over dusty roads lined with sparse shrubs and trees hiding the occasional emu, while the distant jagged peaks of the Flinders and ABC Ranges roll out in the distance.

As we approach the gorge, interpretive signs tell us just how far back in time we’re travelling. One announces we’re entering the Trezona Formation, bands of limestone and siltstone laid down around 630 million years ago. It’s here we find our first trace of early life, stromatolites that represent mounds of ancient algae and bacteria.

To the untrained eye they appear like simple domes of rock. We’re in

SEE FOSSILS HIDDEN

BY TIME IN IK AR A-FLINDERS R ANGES NATIONAL PARK

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stunned silence as we try to grasp the revered piece of history. “Well go on then, look excited!” Mick jokes.

Impressions of Dickinsonia preserved in sandstone at the 550-million-year mark prompt a much more appreciative response.

Tightly packed grooves radiate outwards in a circular formation, creating pretty patterns in the rock that have us clustered around with cameras. Recently identified as the oldest animals in the world, Dickinsonia were abundant in their day. They formed part of Ediacara fauna – soft-bodied marine animals such as jellyfish, worms and sea pens – heralding a significant development in the evolution of life.

At the western end of Brachina Gorge we progress to 540 million years ago, when a proliferation of animals with hard shells such as molluscs and trilobites flourished. Fossils in the limestone are abundant. Mick splashes ê

Explore the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park Adnyamathanha Country - South Australia

60 resort rooms  15 ‘glamping’ Safari Tents  40 powered sites  300 unpowered bush campsites Visitor Information Centre  Tour Desk  4WD Tours  Scenic Flights  Cultural Walks by Aboriginal Guides Restaurant  Bar  Pool  General Store  Bottle Shop  Petrol  Fire Wood

Wilpena Pound Resort | Campground | Ikara Safari Camp T: +61-1800-805-802 | E: reservations@wilpenapound.com.au W: www.wilpenapound.com.au

THE POINTY END

a bottle of water over them to enhance our view, and suddenly the rock appears smooth and polished, almost marble-like, clearly revealing the cross-sections of dozens of dark circular seashells embedded within.

The fossils of Brachina Gorge have worldwide significance, but the fact their history lessons can be imparted in such a striking landscape adds buckets to their appeal.

Rugged rock walls reach heights of around 70 metres, while gnarled river red gums scatter the dry riverbed at the mountains’ base.

Quietly, Mick points out a rare yellowfooted rock wallaby watching motionless

“In 2018 two new fossils were discovered in nearby Nilpena, one named after Barack Obama”

ONE OF THE GNARLED RED RIVER GUMS ON THE DRY RIVER BED

from a hollow in a rock wall up high. It’s almost invisible until it bounds up a cliff face, dragging an enormous fluffy striped tail behind it. Euros (wallaroos) blend into pale yellow grass as they dig for water, and later Mick spots a wedge-tailed eagle silhouetted against a dead tree branch. Even the modern day feels ancient here.

The stories told in the Flinders Ranges are still unfolding. In 2018, two new fossils were discovered in nearby Nilpena, one named Obamus coronatus after Barack Obama and the other Attenborites janeae after – you guessed it – David Attenborough. It’s an honour that would no doubt make the famous fossil-lover proud.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Adelaide from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

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ityLights Poster_1225x1840_D9.indd 2

MUSEUM OF BRISBANE PRESENTS

MUSEUM OF BRISBANE PRESENTS

ON NOW

23 NOVEMBER 2018 – 22 APRIL 2019 MUSEUM OF BRISBANE, CITY HALL Archive Partner

Exhibition

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Supporting

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Media Partners

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Accommodation Partner

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3/10/18 7:55 am

THE POINTY END

THE PASSENGER

TRAVEL & BEACHES

1 0F 2

A round-table chat with three different travellers.

This issue’s topic: best beaches.

Paul Chai, crowd-phobic

who are very proud of their beaches, and they often come off second best. I’m as far from a “we do it better Down Under” traveller as you’re likely to find, but for unspoiled coastline that contains just you and a few trillion grains of sand, Australia take a lot of beating. It makes sense; we have a very high coastline-to-population ratio. However, I still get amazed when I’m the only person standing on some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. ê

ILLUSTRATION SHUTTERSTOCK

I’ll get it straight out there: I’m not a fan of beaches, particularly ones that are a short striking distance from our major metropolises. If you head to a city beach to cool off you have to circle the foreshore umpteen times for a carpark, unload everything, cart it across the lava-hot bitumen, find a spare bit of sand the size of a front-door mat and swim in a few

metres of patrolled surf with the rest of the heaving humanity that thought this was a good idea. Then you pack it all up again, fight your way back to the car, dust off the sand (yet still find it for weeks in your car) and drive back home – hotter and more bothered than when you started.

That said, I don’t mind a beach that I get all to myself, and that’s something Australia excels at. As a travel writer you meet a lot of people, and tourism bodies,

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THE POINTY END You can be on the bustling foreshore of Lakes Entrance in Gippsland one minute and find the hidden town of Lake Tyers Beach the next, where a cliff-hugging staircase takes you down to a wild stretch of beach viewed through a Vaseline lens of sea spray.

I take an annual “surfing” trip up to Blueys Beach near Coffs Harbour and you can wake up there in our share house, walk out on the beer-bottlestrewn balcony and see only dolphins playing in the surf.

TRAVEL & BEACHES

2 0F 2

“MY FAVOURITE CITY BEACH IS TAMARAMA. SUCH A SMALL SLICE OF SAND AMID THE CONCRETE JUNGLE THAT IT FEELS LIKE A SOUTH COAST BEACH THAT GOT LOST ALONG THE WAY"

Conner McLeod, city beaches What better city than Sydney, where you can be suited and booted in the CBD one moment, and be able to nip out to the beach for a lunchtime swim the next?

Admittedly, not a lot of us do that, but we could – the city beaches are one of the best things about Sydney and are almost worth the tears when the monthly rent bill comes in.

My favourite city beach is Tamarama – such a small slice of sand amid the concrete jungle that it feels like a southcoast beach that got lost. It can be busy, sure, but that’s only at peak times. To enjoy Sydney’s beaches, you have to get up early, or stay on late; but busy can be good too. Just watching the people enjoy a Sydney beach can keep you amused for hours. There are the tanned hides that have seen decades of summer sun, the newbies with swim gear that has never been wet by a wave, family picnickers with so much gear – tents, umbrellas, blow-up unicorns – that you

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wonder how they summoned the energy to leave the house. I like a bit of people watching on the beach; it can make the coastal crush more interesting.

Over north, I have a soft spot for Freshwater Beach. It’s hardly a secret, but the waves there are good, the parking is close to the sand (when you can get it) and the water is clear.

I even like some of the Sydney Harbour beaches, like Watsons Bay Baths, where you can take some dives into the sea pool for a few laps and then grab a drink in The Tea Garden opposite when you’re done for the day.

Sarah Mitchell, beach camper Beaches are a great place to hang out, but I wish Australia had a few less restrictions around them. One of the best things about hanging on a beach in Thailand is wandering along and finding a toes-in-the-sand bamboo bar serving up ice-cold beer and snacks. It might not be the whitest sand and the water might be the temperature of slightly tepid bath, but you can chill in a beanbag with a bevvy and not have to pay resort prices.

One of my favourite Australian beaches in Mindil Beach outside of

Darwin, where you can at least take your nasi padang from Mindil Beach Markets down to the sand and watch the sun set.

You can hear the music wafting over the dunes from the marketplace and smell the dishes you wish you had ordered.

Newcastle’s Caves Beach is one of the closest things you can get to a beach beer with the local surf club closer to the sand than a lot of other clubs. You can grab an outdoor table on the grass just a few surfboard lengths from the actual sand and be able to enjoy a schooner.

It’s not that you have to drink or eat to enjoy the beach, but sometimes, as you wander along some of our beautiful tracts of coastline, you just want to linger a little. There have been a number of lovely summer nights abroad where the soundtrack was the waves fighting to be heard above some tunes and chatter that I miss when I’m back here.

But you can also track down a good legal beach campsite – not often right on the dunes, but close enough that you can hear the crash of the waves as you cook dinner and open a bottle of white.

There’s this one spot I love over near Perth, and I’d love to tell you... but then you might just take my spot next year.

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THE POINTY END

Hang out on a “cliffnic” near Sydney

WORDS SANGEETA KOCHAREKAR

W

hat it’s like to picnic on a 25-metrehigh perch? The sun is shining, and I’m washing down blue cheese and crackers with sips of Sav. Next to me is a spread of warm olives, grilled haloumi and a loaf of rye, and beside that is Jacqui, my pal for this picnic.

“Some more coming down for you,” Kyle calls from above, as he lowers a hamper down on a rope. “Anything you don’t want, just send back up.”

I peek into it. Inside is a small dish of brandy-soaked figs and two bottles of cold pressed juice. It’s the sixth food and drink drop we’ve had so far. Or maybe the 10th. I lost track

after the first few, overwhelmed by the pinch-me situation in which I find myself.

I’m in Nowra, on the NSW South Coast. More specifically, I’m on a landing that’s hanging off the side of a cliff, 25 metres above creek water.

It’s usually clear enough to see jellyfish, but today recent rains have turned it a murky brown.

The set-up is run by Kyle’s touring company Outdoor Raw (outdoorraw.com.au), and the adventure I’m experiencing is creatively called a “cliffnic”. It began with emailed instructions on what to bring (sturdy shoes, sunscreen and insect repellent) and directions on how to get to the site. ê

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THE POINTY END

“I’m not going to sugar coat it. Abseiling down was terrifying. But then came the cliffnic” Set on the Shoalhaven River, and called Land Before Time after the roaring animals heard from the zoo across the way, it’s one of the many used by Outdoor Raw for cliffnics. After parking my car off the side of a dirt track, Kyle helped me into a helmet and harness, and we walked into the forest towards it.

“You’ll need this,” he said as he grabbed a hamper suspiciously placed on a tree stump.

We walked a few more steps, and there on the forest floor was a propped-open, antique suitcase filled with bags of local coffee and tea.

I picked my preference (coffee by Nowra, NSW brand Hyper Hyper), and we walked on.

Further up was another suitcase set-up – this time with wine from Silos Estate in Berry, NSW

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and beer from Stoic Brewery in Gerringong, NSW. I grabbed a bottle of Sav. It felt like I was Little Red Riding Hood. Or on an Easter egg hunt.

Hamper in hand, I arrived at the site. Impressive cliffs framed the large river. Kyle hooked me up to a rope, explaining that, if I fell, “Yes, it would be scary as hell,” but that my gear would back me up. “Trust the gear, trust the instructor and trust yourself,” he said.

And then it was time for my first abseil.

I wasn’t scared… but then again I wasn’t sure what an “abseil” was. I had no clue I was about to voluntarily “fall back” over the side of a cliff and then scale my way down. I’m not going to sugar coat it. It was terrifying. But then came the cliffnic.

Jacqui, also with the Outdoor Raw team, was joining me for it so I could get the full experience. I glanced over the cliff edge at the blanket-covered landing. It looked a long way down. Luckily, this time I wouldn’t be abseiling ê

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THE POINTY END

Other Australian adventure dining experiences DINE WITH WHITE LIONS The chance to see white lions up close is extremely rare. The opportunity to dine with them metres from your seat is only available at one place in the world: Canberra’s Jamala Wildlife Lodge. The night begins with pre-dinner drinks on the terrace before heading into the Rainforest Cave for the African-themed meal. jamalawildlifelodge.com.au

PICNIC IN THE MOUNTAINS Queensland’s Sunshine Coast has plenty of stunning scenery, and local company Deep Love Picnic takes advantage of that by offering luxury picnic packages in any beautiful location of your choosing.

They’ll set up and style it, and provide all the food, a bottle of Moet and, as a sweet touch, a scented candle. The only thing you need to do is just show up, and enjoy. deeplovepicnics.com

TASTE A MINER’S PAST Y IN A GOLD MINE Book an Underground Adventure Tour or Nine Levels of Darkness Tour at Central Deborah Gold Mine in Bendigo, and try a traditional miner’s pasty deep in the underground. Miners weren’t able to come to the surface for lunch, so their wives came up with pasties with big, thick crusts. They would eat the savoury part, and then throw away the dirty crust. central-deborah.com/visit/miner-s-pasties

DON'T DROP YOUR SANDWICH; IT 'S A LONG WAY DOWN

– instead, I’d be climbing down a ladder. It wobbled as I descended.

Once on the landing with my back against the cliff-face, I relaxed. Next, Jacqui climbed down.

As we began chatting, Kyle used rope to pass us down the goodies-loaded hamper. Basking in the sun with copious amounts of food being served to me and the knowledge that few people in the world would experience what I currently was (rock climbers frequently dine on landings mid-climb – none do it fine-dining style)…

I was on a high. Literally.

The rest of the afternoon passed quickly. After the picnic (and two glasses of wine, no less), I abseiled down a much taller cliff, scampered around some rocks at the bottom, and before I knew it, Kyle and I were back through the forest and at my car.

Before I left, I asked him what he wanted guests to get from their cliffnic experience. “I want people to walk away feeling like they’ve been taken care of,” he said. “I want it to be one of those lasting memories because it’s rare that you get those. You can think about it in 10 years time, and still enjoy it.”

From what I experienced, I have no doubt that will be the case.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Sydney from eight destinations; tigerair.com.au

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E S T. 1 9 9 9

www.shopmadeinearth.com M E L B O U R N E • LO S A N G E L E S • S A N D I E G O @madeinearthofficial

THE POINTY END

Why I live in

mel bour ne Singer-songwriter Julia Jacklin releases her second full-length album, Crushing, a piece of work that embodies every possible meaning of its title word.

Julia also recently moved from Sydney to Melbourne, and she talks to us about why she chose her new home.

Tell us a bit about Crushing.

The new album is just another snapshot of my life – but this time it’s from being on the road for two years and what that does to you and your relationships and your life and the way you think of yourself. It’s about what you’re willing to

put up with and what you’re not and your relationship with yourself.

It explores a lot of topics, but it’s just a bit of a salve from the suffocation that can be tour life when you don’t really have a moment to yourself.

Does travel inspire you?

I’m not inspired so much by the travelling as what it does to your head. The people you meet; it’s such a different way to interact with the world because you’re meeting new people every single day and in some ways that’s making you see yourself in 1,000 different ways every day.

I write a lot in transit, I write a lot on the plane and a lot in the car, just in those moments when I can relax for a moment and look out a window and think about what’s just happened, or what might happen in the future.

Where do you go for a foodie fix?

I tend to go to a Vietnamese restaurant called Good Days (165 Sydney Road, Brunswick; good-days.com.au) quite a

lot. There’s also New Day Rising (221D Blyth Street, East Brunswick; instagram. com/new.day.rising.cafe), a cafe near my house. Bagels are one of my favourite foods, so I tend to go there a lot.

Do you have a favourite live music venue?

I have a soft spot for The Old Bar (74-76 Johnson Street, Fitzroy; theoldbar.com.au).

It was the first place I played in Melbourne a few years ago and it means a lot to me.

Over the years I have been to a lot of gigs there and it kind of represented Melbourne to me before I moved here. It made me feel at home in Melbourne quicker, because I felt very connected to it already.

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There’s a nice bar in Clifton Hill called Some Velvet Morning (123 Queens Parade; somevelvetmorning.org), which is a bar and a venue but really small; capacity would be about 40 people and they would be really squished, but it’s a nice place to go and see singersongwriters in a quiet setting. Quite a lot of my friends play there regularly.

How about a late-night go-to spot?

I feel like I end up at The Retreat a lot (280 Sydney Road, Brunswick; retreathotelbrunswick.com.au), which is a bit rowdy but you know it’s going to be open. And there’s a bar down from Old

Bar called The Shady Lady (36 Johnson Street, Fitzroy; theshadylady.com.au) Tell us something only a local would know.

I’ve only been here six months and I’m not sure I can represent East Brunswick or Melbourne yet, but if you get a bicycle nice and early I think it changes how you see the city and makes you feel more a part of Melbourne a lot quicker – for me, anyway. I really like how everybody rides and how you arrive at a show or a night out and every bike rack is taken because that’s the chosen mode of transport. You get to experience the flow of the city more and get to understand it a lot better.

LISTEN TO JULIA JACKLIN The follow-up to her 2016 debut Don’t Let the Kids Win, 2019 album Crushing finds Julia Jacklin in self-examination mode with her openness about her own experiences on show. It’s an album formed from sheer intensity of feeling, an in-the-moment narrative of heartbreak and infatuation.

Produced by Burke Reid (Courtney Barnett, The Drones) and recorded at The Grove Studios (a bushland hideaway built by INXS’s Garry Gary Beers), Crushing sets Julia’s understated defiance against a raw yet luminous sonic backdrop.

Opening track “Body” is a starkly composed portrait of a break-up, an intimate song that gives you a sense that you’re right in the room with her as she lays her heart out.

Crushing is out February 22 through Liberation Records. For more information visit mushroompromotions.com or juliajacklin.com

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THE POINTY END

Explore the coast in Perth

F

rom pristine beaches to sunset markets, Perth is made for life on the beach – it’s not for nothing that the rest of Australia calls them the sandgropers. These activities will make you get the most out of the city’s sandy surrounds, seemingly eternal sunshine and lifestyle shaped by some of the best coastline in Australia.

WORDS NINA BURAKOWSKI

Explore the beaches Famously unspoilt and beautiful, Perth beaches are without a doubt the city’s major drawcard. From Mandurah on the southern outskirts to Yanchep in the north, Perth’s coastline has a huge variety of beaches waiting to be discovered. Some favourites are South Beach in Fremantle, where beach life has a uniquely Freo vibe; Cottesloe and City Beach for the postcard-perfect sunsets; and Mullaloo Beach for the purest and whitest sand anywhere along the coast. Do what the locals do: enjoy an early

morning swim (before the wind blows), then head to one of many seaside cafes for a long brunch with uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean.

Try The Shorehouse in Swanbourne for a good example that serves a dizzying variety of G&Ts. shorehouse.com.au.

Get active at Scarborough Esplanade From surfing to skateboarding to an Olympicsized swimming pool, the recently revamped Scarborough beach esplanade has everything to keep you entertained all day long and well into the night. For the active, rent a surfboard or take lessons and hit the waves. Alternatively, swim laps in Perth’s only beachside swimming pool or hang out at the new Snake Pit where you can skate, play basketball or get vertical on the climbing wall. Once done with the sporting prowess, relax at one of the many cafes, restaurants or ê

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THE POINTY END Make with a beachside barbecue Beach and barbecues are a match made in heaven, and you can enjoy this Aussie tradition at the myriad beach parks along the coastline. Bring your favourite food or get a pre-made hamper, roll up the sleeves and fire up the hot plate as you soak up the million-dollar views for free. There are endless options on where to have a barbie, but locals love the green lawn and ocean views at City Beach, Trigg and Cottesloe. Make sure you go early enough to watch the legendary west-coast sunsets while you tuck into your own feast.

Swim with dolphins

“Shoalwater Marine Park is home to over 200 wild bottle-nosed dolphins” small bars that hug the beach strip. Even better if you make it to Scarborough Beach on a Thursday for the popular Scarborough Sunset Markets when the food trucks roll on to the Esplanade for a spectacular evening feast.

Fall in love with the windy afternoons Make the most of the afternoon sea breeze that puts an end to sunbathing and go kitesurfing instead. The legendary summer breeze provides the perfect conditions for this adrenaline-packed adventure sport that may well be the best way to experience Perth’s awesome coastline. For beginners, there are plenty of kitesurfing schools along the coast that offer first-rate lessons.

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you’re spoilt for choice. Find the ideal flat water conditions at Safety Bay or Woodman Point where you’ll mix with some of the world’s best kitesurfers who make this their training ground in the summer months. For wave slayers, the coastline from City Beach to Trigg is your best bet.

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SWIM WITH THE WILD DOLPHINS IN SHOALWATER MARINE PARK

TAKE TO THE SKIES WITH A KITESURFING LESSON AT CIT Y BEACH

Discover Perth’s best-kept secret when you head to the clear and sheltered waters of Shoalwater Marine Park where you can swim with wild dolphins. The marine sanctuary near Rockingham is home to over 200 wild bottle-nosed dolphins, along with sea lions, fairy penguins and countless species of seabirds. Tours are available daily and no diving experience is necessary for this unforgettable experience. You’ll be equipped with wetsuit and snorkel and all you need to do is float in the water and have these incredible animals swim right next to you. If you'd rather stay dry, there are wildlife tours that offer close-up views of the impressive array of wildlife at Shoalwater Marine Park.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Perth from Melbourne and Sydney; tigerair.com.au

THE POINTY END

THE FEAST 1 0F 2

THE RESURGENCE OF FARM-TO-TABLE DINING Farm-to-table dining represents a return to the philosophy that the best food is locally sourced, natural and fresh.

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

D

espite being a relatively modern movement, farm-to-table is in many ways simply a return to the way people used to eat.

Until the 1940s, most people in Australia had a direct, or close to direct, connection to farmers, be it living near a market garden or a local market, or shopping at an independent grocer who sourced food from local growers directly.

As advancements in technology made packaged foods a viable alternative, and food processing became commonplace, this connection between consumers and farmers was lost, and for many people knowing where their food came from was no longer front of mind.

However, with consumers now taking a greater interest in wellness and environmentalism, they’re not only expecting better-quality food, but they’re also expecting to know where it has come from. There’s satisfaction as a consumer in supporting local producers, and that the environmental impact of your dining choices is being minimised.

From a producer’s point of view, there’s a gratification in knowing that your product is going to people who truly care about their food, and, if you can find enough customers, there’s a financial advantage in selling at a higher

price based on quality instead of relying on bulk sales in a harsh market. Having said that, not every farmer can set themselves up for this kind of market, and not all consumers can afford it.

In many ways, the term farm-to-table has arguably lost its meaning. Many large businesses and fast food chains have co-opted it without truly adopting all the aspects it generally implies. Simply sourcing certain ingredients from local farmers through existing industrial volume supply chains isn’t really farm-totable. Does local refer to the same city?

State? Country? What’s important isn’t terminology and definitions, but what restaurateurs are actually doing.

In an attempt to truly espouse as much of the farm-to-table ethos as possible, some restaurateurs are taking a more hands-on approach. At Wasabi in Noosa, 80 per cent of the ingredients used come from owner Danielle Gjestland’s ê

REGION A L SUPER S TA R S Great regional suppliers, and regional restaurants supporting the producer near them, are essential parts of the farm-to-table movement. East Gippsland is an incredible example of this – see our up-front feature on page 13. visiteastgippsland.com.au

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THE POINTY END THE FEAST 2 0F 2

"A NEWCOMER ON PERTH’S DINING SCENE, FICUS OPENED IN NOVEMBER 2018 AT PERTH’S NEWEST DINING PRECINCT, YAGAN SQUARE" farm in Pomona, Honeysuckle Hill.

At Highline in Windsor, almost all produce comes from the owner’s farm, Oak Valley, in the Strathbogie Ranges.

At Brae in Birregurra, much of what’s used in the kitchen comes from the restaurant’s on-site farm.

Here are five places across Australia to get your taste of farm-to-table dining.

ethical – and, where possible, organic – producers from southern Queensland down to Port Macquarie. The food is simple, seasonal and delicious.

If you can’t make it to the original Bronte location, the team also have a restaurant at their Byron Bay location, as well as Rosebery and Brisbane.

Ficus (Perth, WA) Franklin (Hobart, TAS)

Wilson & Market (Prahran, VIC) Wilson & Market opened inside the Prahran Market in 2017 with a focus on modern Australian food cooked through a European-influenced lens. Produce is seasonal, biodynamic and showcases some of the best Victoria has to offer.

Standout produce includes Milla’s Farm duck, Blackwood Hill lamb, and Sher Wagyu beef.

While former owner and restaurant namesake Paul Wilson is no longer involved with the restaurant, current head chef Ryan Spurrell (ex Estelle Bistro, Saint Crispin, Vue de Monde) is ensuring the restaurant stays true to its farm-to-table ethos.

Three Blue Ducks (Bronte, NSW) Three Blue Ducks began with three friends who were inspired while travelling to adopt a more sustainable approach to living. After returning to Sydney and teaming up with three more like-minded individuals, Three Blue Ducks opened in 2010.

They source as much as possible from their own 80-acre farm in Byron Bay with everything else coming from

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dismayed at the disconnect between city diners and regional farmers.

Throughout the cafe you’ll find photos and excerpts that let you learn more about where your food came from.

The all-day menu features food prepared “without trickery” using ingredients that are organic, where possible, and sourced responsibly and ethically. Think dishes like potato hash with slow roasted tomatoes, haloumi, basil cream and poached eggs, or beetroot and ricotta pasta with parmesan, pine nuts, basil and sorrel.

Franklin helped put Hobart on the map as a dining destination when it opened in 2014, and today it’s going as strong as ever. The food, which is designed to share, is all about making the best of what Tasmania has to offer, which is an abundance of fresh produce.

Head chef Analiese Gregory draws upon her experience cooking in San Sebastian, Paris, London and Sydney to create a diverse offering that fantastically showcases the produce, and she often forages for ingredients on the way to the restaurant each day.

Everything is made from scratch on-site, including the breaking down of animals, baking of bread, curing of meat and crafting of cheese. The wine list also focuses on local producers, highlighting organic and unique drops.

Plenty (West End, QLD) Taking a more educational approach than many farm-to-table venues, Plenty doesn’t just celebrate the abundance of quality local produce, but also celebrates the people behind it.

Working in the Brisbane hospitality industry, owner Karyn Hodges became

A newcomer on Perth’s dining scene, Ficus opened in November 2018 at Perth’s newest dining precinct, Yagan Square. It’s a collab between Kevin Opferkuch (Bunbury Farmers Market) and Paul Vanderplancke (Cantina 663), and sees the duo championing the produce of the south-west As director of the Bunbury Farmers Market, Opferkuch has expert insight into how the produce has been made, who grew it and how it has been handled.

Using these ingredients, head chef André Mahé has put together a modern Australian menu that highlights the quality and flavours of the ingredients.

The drinks list follows the same ethos with fantastic local spirits, wines and beers available.

THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture online magazine The City Lane, and he is one-third of the craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective.

Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.

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THE POINTY END

CIDER HOUSE RULES T he ol Barsto

Grabbing an apple-based brew can be a great summer alternative to a beer. Here are the best on offer.

Hills Cider, SA

A

pples, one of the oldest known fruits, have always flourished across the globe. Growing from Europe through to Asia, the Americas to Africa, the variations and hardiness of the apple have made it a long-lasting favourite of many.

As it goes with most things that are grown, people through the ages have found creative ways to consume apples – not least, in my view, using them to produce cider. And while cider has been around for centuries, it’s now enjoying a renaissance and, in some respects, its own coming-of-age alongside beer, wine and spirits thanks to a new crop of makers determined to breathe new life into one of our oldest drinks.

Here’s a pick of the new producers just right for exploring in the warm weather as cider comes into its own.

Small Acres, NSW As the name suggest, Small Acres is a diminutive apple orchard and cellar door in the foothills of Mount Canobolas producing a staggering rage of awardwinning cider and perry. Homesick for traditional UK cider, Gail and James set

about finding an ideal location to grow cider apples. Orange fit the bill perfectly, providing an ideal climate, soil conditions and an already established and thriving food and wine industry.

Must-try cider: The Cat’s Pyjamas.

Hand-crafted and matured cider produced only in vintages in years the fruit is at its best. If you see it, try it!

Napoleone, VIC Napoleone cider contains fruit that’s estate-grown by three generations of the Napoleone family – and what a perfect place to visit for a cider tasting, lunch or even an extended afternoon relaxing in the gardens overlooking the lush Yarra Valley. With cider, perry and beer all produced on-site and wines from Punt Road Wines matching perfectly with a seasonal, local menu from Meletos Cafe in the same venue, there really is something for everyone in this Yarra Valley favourite.

Must-try cider: Napoleone Apple & Pear Cider. A well-balanced cider that shows crisp apple up front with earthy, spicy pear sweetness on the finish.

“When every apple counts” is the catch call of the Hills Cider team who live and breathe this approach to producing the freshest cider from local apples in the Adelaide Hills. Fruit, even with slight blemishes, is happily accepted from local growers. Supported by Hills Cider’s commitment to pay a consistent farm-door price throughout the year, it has helped to reinvigorate the Adelaide Hills fruit-growing industry. And so has their cellar door, Lot 100 – an impressive partnership between Hills Cider, Mismatch Brewing Co, Adelaide Hills Distillery, VNT LPR and Ashton Valley Fresh. If it’s local and fresh, then you’re sure to find the best of South Australian food and craft beverage here.

Make sure to grab: Hills Apple & Ginger Cider. Bringing together fresh Adelaide Hills apples with hand-selected Queensland ginger. This cider balances the sweetness with a spicy intensity from Queensland ginger. Gluten-free and vegan friendly with a touch of spice.

MEET THE AUTHOR Dave Phillips is a drinks travel expert and the Dave in Dave’s Brewery Tours and Pub Walks. When not touring local drink production houses, he’s surfing.

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THE POINTY END

W

e have set ourselves a seemingly simple task: two sunsets, two summits; to watch the day end on top of the sister mountaintops of Mt Buller and Mt Stirling in the Victorian High Country.

Usually when I head up Mt Buller it’s sitting in a chairlift swaddled in ski clothes. This, however, is summer, and while people are still hurtling down the slopes, they happen to be on mountain bikes.

The village is almost hushed, giving us more time to listen to the calls of the local gang-gang

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cockatoos. You can watch for butterflies and mountain grasshoppers (Buller bugs) instead of patches of slippery ice.

The runs on Mt Buller switch from white to green, but the skies stay the deepest of alpine blues away from the city haze. You’re more aware of the beauty of the region when you take away the hustle of a day on the slopes.

At dinner at Pat’s Italian Restaurant we meet a couple from Mansfield who are up here to avoid the summer heat. Because when you climb up

WORDS PAUL CHAI; PHOTOS PAUL CHAI AND HIGH COUNTRY HIKING TOURS

See sunset in the Victorian High Country

to the village the temperature can drop by up to 10 degrees, you leave the crowds behind too.

The High Country in summer feels like one of the state’s last great travel secrets.

After dinner we attack the summit, which on Mt Buller is easier than it sounds. Travelling on a dirt track from the top of the village you arrive in the summit carpark, and it’s a short 15-minute walk to the top where we take our place by the stone fire tower that crowns the mountain. The sunset is nothing short of spectacular, our peak position giving us a view of the sundown only rivalled by those of our fellow sunset-watchers (and perhaps the drones flying overhead). When the sun slips away we head back to our bed at ABOM, as tomorrow night’s sunset will require more work.

A Stirling day out Mt Stirling is Buller’s wilder sibling. In winter it’s for cross-country skiers, not those softies who need a ski lift. In summer it too is peppered with mountain bikers, but they’ve had to ride up the mountain, not catch the bus put on by Mt Buller.

THE BOYS TRY FOR A BETTER VANTAGE POINT

“Mt Stirling is Buller’s wilder sibling. In winter it’s for hardened cross-country skiers, not those softies who need a ski lift”

We’re hiking the Bluff Spur Trail from Telephone Box Junction where we meet our guide, Romana Hoffman from High Country Hiking Tours, a new company set up to help novices like us (and pro hikers) explore the parts of the alpine region that roads can’t reach. I’ve packed for my wife and two kids – freeze-dried meals, alpine wear and 20 litres of water – as per instructions on the High Country Hiking Tours website, but I can tell from Romana’s face that I’m not a mountaineer just yet. There’s too much of everything, but we have the support of base camp managers, Vlad and Zdeni, who are driving the overflow (and the water) up to where we’re pitching our tents at the Bluff Spur Memorial Hut. From there it’s a 2.6-kilometre hike to the summit. ê

THE WRITER AND FAMILY HIKE THE TR AIL TO THE SUMMIT OF MT STIRLING

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THE POINTY END

Higher calling HIGH COUNTRY HIKING TOURS This Victorian hiking tour company is run by Romana Hoffman and her husband Kevin. They offer one- to fiveday hikes as well as tailored itineraries for hardcore hikers and novices alike.

Check out their website for itineraries and essential information on what to pack for a hike in the High Country; highcountryhikingtours.com.au

MT BULLER Just three hours from Melbourne is a summer alpine retreat that’s free from crowds and city smog. Whether you want to run, hike, bike or simply take a break from the scorching summer temperatures “down below”, there’s plenty on offer in the High Country.

For accommodation and trip ideas visit mtbuller.com.au, run.mtbuller.com.au or bike.mtbuller.com.au

High Country Hiking Tours provides all the equipment for our two-day hike, but we carry it to get a feel for what’s involved. We put on gaiters (boot coverings to keep out rocks and protect from snakes), go through a safety briefing and strap in to our backpacks. I think mine is quite weighty, but later in the day I’ll help lift Romana’s – it feels like it’s stuffed full of lead weights. We start our ascent to the Mt Stirling summit, our two boys, 12 and nine years old respectively, running ahead like hares to our backpack-laden tortoises.

Romana has a passion for this region that goes beyond her job as a mountain guide; she has been drawn to the region since she was a kid and has fallen in love with it. At every twist and turn of the walk she has information on the flowers, trees and surrounding peaks. Her enthusiasm for the High Country is infectious.

“There are rivers winding their way down from the mountains with water so crystal clear that you can see the fish swimming in it, hidden waterfalls that can take your breath away, and lakes where you can swim, kayak and play all day long,” she says. “How can you not fall in love with the Victorian High Country? I was sold on my first visit.”

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WE’RE ALL SMILES AT TELEPHONE BOX JUNCTION, BUT THE WALK IS YET TO COME

Making camp Romana has taken on Mont Blanc in France, Grand Paradiso in Italy and Mount Kilimanjaro in northern Tanzania. She has a hiker’s temperament, calm and capable – keeping a keen eye on all of us – and a love of fluoro colours (like her hot pink head band) because they’re easy to spot.

“I see a mountaintop and I want to stand on top of it. I want to see what's on the other side,” she says. “I love the remoteness, the feeling of the wilderness around me; the smell of the earth, the wildflowers, the eucalyptus and the rain. I love hearing the birds chatter, the kookaburras laughing at me, the rustle of the leaves. And I love the physical and mental challenge. I love arriving on a mountain summit and being rewarded by stunning views and amazing sunsets at the end of the day.”

When you take a hike with Romana, you don’t just get a guide. You get a teacher. She helps us pitch our tents and sort our meals; then she opens her pack and we can see just how much business

“At every twist and turn of the walk Romana has information on the flowers, the trees and the peaks.

Her enthusiasm is infectious”

she really means. Her backpack is a Tardis that appears to disgorge more equipment than should rightly fit in it. Out pop stoves, shelters and first-aid kits, followed by solar panels for charging phones, a sleeve that turns your smartphone into a satellite phone, and a location beacon that’s accurate to within 100 metres. When the zombies come, Romana is the one you want by your side.

After pitching our tents we grab a quick dinner of freeze-dried camper meals and learn another lesson: don’t buy them. Our meals are barely edible, while Romana’s meal of vermicelli noodles, laksa and split lentils is amazing (keep an eye on her website for the recipe).

The walk to the summit is easier as the evening cools. The flies that have been dogging us during the day disappear and we’re driven by our sunset goal. We reach the peak just as the sky blazes amber, and Romana points out the surrounding mountains – from the jagged peak of Crosscut Saw to the twin mounds of The Paps. It’s as beautiful as Mt Buller, but we have the summit to ourselves – and it feels better because we earned it.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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THE PACK

T HE P L AY L I S T

THE POINTY END

Pack these on your next trip away 1

STUFF TO BUY BEFORE YOU GO

Ü 1 G O P R O H E R O 7 S I LV E R GoPro’s HERO7 Silver is a must-have travel accessory. The compact and rugged camera shoots 4K, and with hundreds of accessories and mounts – as well as voice activation – you can shoot from any perspective. $449.95; gopro.com.au

1 TORO Y MOI

OUTER PEACE

2

This house and R&B-inflected release from Toro y Moi captures a sense of isolation.

It’s music to be danced to but also later thought about, Chaz Bear’s brilliant ear for production framing gently dystopian ditties about modern culture’s lean into technology.

Perfect for… your next country getaway

2 JENNEN SHOES Want a boost? These shoes will increase your height by 6cm without compromising style or comfort.

Check out their casual, formal, vegan and women's range too.

Free delivery in Australia and NZ. $179; jennenshoes.com.au

3

3 FUJI INSTA X MINI 9 Fun and easy to operate, you can enjoy the exciting and immediate world of instant prints with this Fuji Instax Mini 9 camera and bonus film pack. $99.95; teds.com.au

2 4

4 ANTIPODES AUR A MANUK A HONEY MASK

S H A R O N VA N E T T E N

REMIND ME TOMORROW

The Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask is a hydrating daily cleanse treatment that replenishes vital nutrients and restores natural radiance. $49; antipodesnature.com

5

5 AMERICAN TOURISTER WORK:OUT BACKPACK

On Remind Me Tomorrow the New Jersey singer has completely transformed her sound, working with producer John Congleton to create an album of echoing, chaotic thumpers heavy with synth and bass. Immediate and confessional, the stylistic change amounts to perhaps her greatest collection of work to date.

Perfect for… the 2019 Adelaide Festival

American Tourister’s Work:Out backpack is innovatively designed for the modern traveller. Its functional features include a dedicated shoe compartment, wet pocket and a lockable laptop pocket. $99.95, americantourister.com.au

6 NIKON D3500

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3 TREE & VIC SPENCER

NOTHING IS SOMETHING 6

This half-hour hip-hop knockout is what happens when you throw together two of the most hard-bitten rappers doing the rounds in the United States right now. Tree & Vic Spencer have never been afraid of self-reflection, but songs like “Cognac and Beer”, “Gospel” and the Chris Crack-featuring “Lucifer Callin’” combine for an endlessly replayable LP. Perfect for… Fortitude Valley at night

ALBUMS MATT SHEA

The D3500 is the ultimate entrylevel camera. Also equipped with Snapbridge, you’ll be able to instantly and wirelessly transfer your images from your DSLR to your phone. $799; nikon.com.au

B R E ATH E IN TH E H IGH C O UNTRY, EXH ALE THE EXPERIENCE

Let us take you on a hiking adventure in the Victorian High Country that you will never forget.

We offer one day to five day guided hiking tours to beautiful places where crystal clear waters flow from the mountains, wildflowers cover the hillsides and wildlife is abundant.

To places with the most amazing sunsets you’ll ever see and sunrises that take your breath away.

And to make your hiking trip more comfortable, we provide equipment such as four season tents, top of the range backpacks, soft fluffy sleeping bags, insulated mattresses and much, much more.

Our tours comprise of small groups to give you a more personalised experience.

Coming soon are overnight hikes and short day hikes suitable for families with young children.

So, get your friends together and come and play in the high country.

For more information and to book, visit our website at www. highcountryhikingtours.com.au Enter this discount code (TT2019/01) when booking your tour to receive 10% off the purchase price.

Ph: +61 407 827 833

E: info@highcountryhikingtours.com.au

FB: @highcountryhikingtours

IN: @highcountryhikingtours

欢迎到凯恩斯国际夜市和美食广场

Cairns Night Markets

On The Esplanade in Cairns Open every Night from 4:30 till 11pm

位于凯恩斯市中心海滨大道(ESPLANADE)，每晚营业下午4:30起至11点，全年无休 * Food Court open from 10am * Best priced food in town * Night Markets open from 4:30pm to 11pm * Car parking upstairs above Night Markets $1.00 per hr * Approximately 2.5 million people visit the Cairns Night Markets each year * Come and see an amazing mix of 70 retail market stalls offering everything from a massage to a haircut or delicious Chinese self-serve

FISH FOOT SPA

美食广场每日上午10点起营业至夜间，价格合理公道

The Famous Cairns Night Markets & Food Court. Open 7 days a week

THE POINTY END

See the reef-inspired street art in Cairns

WORDS FIONA HARPER

B

ringing the Great Barrier Reef to Cairns streets with oversized murals, the Sea Walls: Artists for Oceans project has enhanced the tropical city’s streetscape.

PangeaSeed Foundation collaborated with Cairns Regional Council and a team of volunteer artists to transform otherwise drab office and apartment tower concrete walls, downtrodden car parks and other public structures with oversized

artworks. The project aims to increase awareness of ocean conservation.

It’s not the first time artists have been used to draw attention to environmental issues affecting the earth’s life support system. PangeaSeed’s public art program has engaged over 200 contemporary artists who have created more than 300 ocean-themed murals in 12 countries since it was established in 2014. ê

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THE POINTY END

The following are some of the best works to see on the streets of Cairns: Artist: Cracked Ink What: Get to Know Where: Cairns Showground, Scott Street Dominating the entrance turnstiles at Cairns Showgrounds, the artist known as Cracked Ink (real name Simon Ormerod) took an unsubtle approach to issues facing the ocean environment. Cracked Ink is known for his twisted, slightly disturbed characters that populate his oversized street art (pictured below).

Cracked Ink aims to highlight the challenges the oceans face, emphasising the need for education while changing human attitudes towards a more sustainable ocean and planet.

“My artwork encapsulates multiple different ocean matters including overfishing, plastic pollution, deep sea oil drilling and rising sea levels,” he says.

ABORIGINAL ELDER HENRIETTA MARRIE ON A WALL IN CAIRNS

Artist: Claire Foxton What: If We Lose Our Reef, We Lose Ourselves Where: Cairns Corporate Tower, Lake Street Claire Foxton pays tribute to Aboriginal elder, activist and community leader, CQU Assoc.

Professor and Great Barrier Reef champion Henrietta Marrie with a striking work that dominates the lower three floors of the Cairns Corporate Tower.

Foxton says her mural “seeks to illustrate this connectedness by concealing the vibrant colours, textures and patterns of the reef within Henrietta’s silhouette. Parts are washed away or sink back into the wall to visually represent the cumulative effect of loss – if one is washed away, so too is the other.”

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Artist: Low Bros What: Coral Bleaching Where: Holloways Beach Tower, Oleander Street German artist duo, brothers Christoph and Florin Schmidt, embraced the daunting challenge of a 28-metre-tall water tower (pictured below) as a canvas to highlight coral bleaching on fragile eco systems. Their marine creatures swim around the tower in a vibrant kaleidoscopic clash, intermittently subdued and stripped of colour.

“The work focuses on coral bleaching, a negative environmental condition brought on by human stressors such as pollution, rising sea temperatures and over-fishing,” say the Low Bros.

When flying to Cairns, keep an eye out for the colourful water tower on the left side of the plane when approaching Cairns Airport.

Artist: Tim Phibs What: It’s a Matter of Time Where: Abbott Street Improving an otherwise architecturally miserable apartment block on the Cairns Esplanade opposite, Tim Phibs’ work (pictured above) can be seen from many blocks away. Guests checking into the new Crystalbrook Collection’s Bailey Hotel will have a front-row view to Phibs’ coral trout at risk of overfishing as the coral sands of time tumble down an ever-diminishing egg-timer.

Minimising the project’s paint footprint, Phibs utilised leftover paints, hues and tinting mistakes from other artists to create a work he hopes will generate a sense of urgency on the impact we have on our reefs and oceans.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Cairns from Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane; tigerair.com.au

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Landing gear

You’re on the flight, but have you packed right?

Comedians Michelle Brasier and Laura Frew – also known as Double Denim – give us some tongue-in-cheek “fashun” and packing advice ahead of this year’s Melbourne International Comedy Festival.

PHOTOS SAMARA CLIFFORD

MELBOURNE COMEDY FESTIVAL

ê

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MELBOURNE COMEDY FESTIVAL

T

ravel is wonderful. We’re here because we live in the age of affordable travel.

In the sweet spot of the readily available commercial flight age. We’re so privileged. Even that $7 airport flat white in your hand is a damn privilege. It’s the dream to be able to go so far across this big sunburnt island in such little time – and so we do. Australians love to travel, and we plan our itineraries like absolute bosses. What we don’t excel at, however, is packing.

Australians have a lot of space. We live in big houses in the country and in the cities. Our apartments are huge compared to those in the US or the UK. We have a lot of stuff, and we want to bring it with us. What would Marie Kondo think?

She’d roll over in the tidy little cloud made of joy that it’s safe to assume she sleeps in.

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What you pack is important. If you haven’t worn that dress for the last two years, you’re not going to magically become the kind of person who wears it during your one-week sojourn to the Gold Coast. It’s not happening, mate. You need to pack for you. Grab your thongs and chill out.

You want clean, simple basics that can be mixed and matched (let’s face it – you’re wearing your black T-shirt and jeans every single day anyway), toiletries and exercise clothes (haha, just kidding, you’re on holiday you idiot). Oh, and underwear. We cannot stress this enough.

Michelle always forgets this vital step, and it’s a problem. We’re staging an intervention shortly – you’re all welcome. There will be biscuits.

Step by step baby, here we go.

MELBOURNE COMEDY FESTIVAL

The Espy is back!

After three years and a painstaking renovation that involved trawling the world for European antiques, removing years of clutter and uncovering a hidden treasure trove of historic band posters (now used as wallpaper in the basement venue), the Sand Hill Road group has reopened the classic Hotel Esplanade.

We shot Double Denim at the Espy, whose renovation still manages to maintain the hotel’s rock ‘n’ roll spirit (and not just in the Four Pillars house gin called Sticky Carpet).

The Gershwin Room remains untouched too, and will play host to bands and comedy gigs once more.

For more information visit hotelesplanade.com.au

STEP 1 First up, you want a good suitcase. If you only have carry-on, you don’t want to use up all your weight allowance with a heavy bag. Get that ultra-light action. You deserve it. Get the multidirectional wheels, too – nobody wants to see you struggling around the airport. It’s 2019, and you deserve better. You can get them pretty cheap on the internet. If you don’t have the internet, we cannot recommend it highly enough.

It will really change your life, guys.

KITTY FLANAGAN (OPPOSITE) AND JUDITH LUCY ARE AT MICF

“You need to pack for you. Grab your thongs and just chill out”

STEP 2 Essentials. You need underwear (Michelle), so make sure you have enough for each of the day’s you’ll be away, or three to four pairs if you’ll have time and facilities to wash and dry them. Comfortable shoes if you’re going to explore, dress shoes if you’re going to some sort of Cinderella ball (we cannot presume to know your life). Personal health stuff – deodorant, moisturiser, your inhaler – is important, because believe it or not, you’ll still have smelly pits/dry skin/garbage lungs in Brisbane.

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“What a mysterious woman.

What an enigma. She must be famous. Or a spy. Better upgrade her hotel room“

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MELBOURNE COMEDY FESTIVAL

The best of the fest The Melbourne International Comedy Festival sees the city laughing in the face of the oncoming nine months of bad weather. Here’s just a small sample of what’s on offer this year. To book shows head to comedyfestival.com.au

D AV E H U G H E S , H A I R Y Comedy fest stalwart and TV personality Dave Hughes has not had a haircut since the last Melbourne International Comedy Festival. Is it a mid-life crisis, or is he just lazy? Come to the show and find out.

March 28 – April 21

T H E G R E AT D E B AT E Six heavy-hitting, quick-talking comedians will enter the ring and take their corners for The Great Debate! Watch as they duck and weave around one huge topic. This comedy festival staple is now in its 30th year, so come along and celebrate.

April 7

CHARLIE PICKERING, US & THEM Charlie Pickering – host of The Weekly – returns with a brand-new stand-up show about why the world is so divided and what might bring it together again.

March 28 – April 7

DANIELLE WALKER, MY THS AND LEGENDS Best Newcomer 2018 winner, Danielle Walker, says of her show: “It’s called Myths and Legends because two of my comedy bits are about mythological creatures. For example: Tom Jones = legend, cool dads = myth.”

March 28 – April 21

KIT T Y FL ANAGAN, SMASHING

STEP 3 DAVE HUGHES’ NEW SHOW HAIRY IS COMING TO MELBOURNE

The fun stuff. What do you want to wear? Whatever you look like, you want it to be on purpose. Double denim, a big black coat hanging off your shoulders, your identity hidden behind rock-star sunglasses.

Who is she? What a mysterious woman. What an enigma. She must be famous. Or a spy. Better upgrade her to the best room in the hotel.

Don’t pack options. Pack decisions. You can bring “just in case” items, but only one or two. You don’t need to bring 10 dresses on the off chance you get invited to the Arias. Pack what you wear most often matched to the climate to which you’re headed. ê

Following a sold-out, five-star season of Smashing at the 2018 Melbourne International Comedy Festival, Kitty is back for a few special, encore performances of her smash-hit show.

April 4-20

P H I L W A N G , P H I L LY P H I L LY W A N G W A N G UK comedian Phil Wang has appeared on Australian TV in the Melbourne International Comedy Festival Gala and The Great Debate. His growing list of UK TV appearances include 8 Out of 10 Cats Does Countdown, Roast Battle and Live at the Apollo, as well as in his own mini-Netflix special.

March 28 – April 21

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MELBOURNE COMEDY FESTIVAL OUR LAST COMEDY COVER STAR, RHYS NICHOLSON, HAS A NEW SHOW

You are good to go!

Get on that holiday and dress like the well-prepared king or queen you are. Pat all the local dogs! Try the best local vanilla slice!

Notice how in some places they are called potato scallops not potato cakes! Wild!

You’re gonna be great. You’ve got this, kid.

You’ll feel so much better not having to lug six pairs of shoes around. You win at travel fashion.

Everybody is jealous. Even the people with golden retrievers are jealous. If this article had music it would fade out like this: “Holiday! Celebrate! It would be so nice...”

Bye, love you, travel safe!

Double Denim won the Director’s Choice Award at the Melbourne International Comedy Festival in 2018. The comedy duo returns to the festival in 2019 with a new show, A Very Fancy Dinner Party. March 28 – April 21; michellebrasier.com/double-denim

Step 4 You want to leave room in your luggage so you can make space for a holiday purchase... like a giant hat so everybody knows you’re European now because you spent the week in Melbourne.

You love laneway culture. You can’t help it, it’s your brand now. We get it. So take it all out and cull.

You don’t need all that crap. What were you thinking? Put a quarter of it back and see how easily your suitcase closes now. You did it! You are so brave! Yes Kween! Etcetera!

Step 5 Don’t forget… your wallet, your keys, your drink bottle, your KeepCup and your reusable shopping bag, your phone charger, your headphones (nobody wants to talk to other humans on the flight – flights are you time) and chuck them in your favourite backpack.

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E M B R A C E T H E “ L” WITH COMEDIAN URZIL A CARLSON

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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DESTINATION COFFS HABBOUR

DE S T IN AT ION C OF F S H A R BOUR DI X IE

is a blogger and travel writer. When she’s not caravanning with Graeme, she enjoys exploring her own backyard. @aussiecaravanning

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION, TWO DIFFERENT HUSBAND VS WIFE

ADVENTURES

G R A E ME

has returned to Coffs Harbour after almost two years of travelling Australia. He’s also an avid photographer. @aussiecaravanning

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

ON THE BOA RDWA L K BREK K Y BY THE CREEK As the rest of my day incorporates a lot of walking, it’s important I have the fuel of a good breakfast.

Located beside the old butter factory, Shearwater Restaurant (shearwaterrestaurant.com.au) overlooks the Coffs Creek and makes for a wonderful beginning to the day. It’s also open for lunch and dinner and the food is very impressive.

The Coffs Creek Walk is a bushwalk through the forested fringes of the creek with boardwalk across wetland areas and mangroves. It’s an easy flat walk all the way into the city and passes my next stop the North Coast Regional Botanic Gardens.

GREEN IS GOOD If you love plants you will really enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and the unique blend of native and exotic flora at the North Coast Regional Botanic Gardens (ncrbg.com.au). It’s a true hidden gem right in the middle of Coffs and it’s free, although you can leave a gold coin donation.

The Japanese garden, with its bridge and waterfall, is my favourite.

DI X IE

kicks off at Coffs Creek, goes to the gardens and ends with a brew

f r id ay

10:00

12:00

13:00

HUMP DAY Coffs has great beaches, and being an old surfer from way back I decide to go and check out Gallows, which is very popular with surfers and, believe it or not, camels. It’s here where you can enjoy a camel ride along the beach (coffscoastcamels.com.au).

ISL A ND HOPPING No trip to Coffs Harbour is complete without walking over Muttonbird Island. Walk along the breakwater/ breakwall that protects the marina’s boats from the ocean storms and connects the land to Muttonbird Island. A formed path goes over the top of the island giving you access to a couple of viewing platforms.

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TIME FOR A S WIM Park Beach is very popular with beachgoers, surfers and dogs. The dogs love the southern end of this beach as much as humans do. After a quick swim I feel the hunger pangs kick in, so off to my next destination for lunch just a few metres back from the sands of Park Beach.

DESTINATION COFFS HARBOUR

FRENCH CONNEC TION SOME THING A LIT TL E A R T Y The Coffs Harbour Regional Gallery may not be one of the biggest galleries in the world, but it has some fabulous exhibitions that change on a regular basis.

The gallery (facebook.com/ CoffsHarbourRegionalGallery) is free to wander through and you can take time to ask the volunteer staff any questions.

After all that walking it’s time for a break. I head to Pansabella Providores (pansabella.com.au) a place where I can enjoy the things I love in life.

It has a very French vibe about it with flowers, cheese, music and a delicious toastie.

15:00

WH AT ’S BRE WING ?

I can’t go by this store without popping in to see what new blend of tea is brewing. They also have all sorts of tea cups and pots. A perfect present for that tea-loving friend.

The Red Sparrow Tea Company (facebook.com/ redsparrowteacompany) is just awesome, so make sure you stop by and see what’s brewing.

17:00

19:00

G R A E ME

starts with island hopping, goes for a swim and rides a camel

L UNCH AT THE SURF CL UB The Surf Club Restaurant and Bar is right on the beach and you can kick back and enjoy the ocean views while devouring a delicious lunch. It’s also open for brekky seven days a week.

E AT, DRINK A ND CHIL L

A N HOUR OF A DREN A LINE I have an hour to kill, so I decide to get the heart pumping with a “Fast Adrenaline Ride” aboard Wild Fin with Jetty Dive (jettydive.com.au) – a very different way to experience the harbour. Maybe scuba diving is your thing, or if you happen to be visiting during the whale migration season, check out their awesome Whale Watching Tours.

I meet up with Dixie for “Happy Couple of Hours” (4-6pm) at the Element Bar (facebook.com/ elementbarcoffs), located along the Jetty Strip. This place has an extensive range of special craft beers and ciders as well as cocktails and other beverages.

If you end up staying longer and feel a little peckish, ask about the chef’s special of the day – you won’t be disappointed.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

CHEESE M A KING M A DE E A S Y

ROA S T, SIP, SN ACK , REPE AT Supply (facebook.com/ supplycoffeecoffs) is the place to go for your morning caffeine hit.

They roast everything they serve and you can’t get any fresher coffee than that. If you feel peckish then check out their extensive menu.

A LIT TL E BIT OF B A LI IN COFF S Next door to Supply you’ll find Buddha’s Home and Garden (facebook.com/ buddhashomeandgarden) store that’s alive with everything Indonesian.

The moment you walk in your you smell the fragrances of Bali and you may be forgiven for thinking you've been transported there.

While Graeme is busy checking out what next to do at The Big Banana, I wander over to the Cheese Making Workshop (thecheesemakingworkshop.com.au) where I participate in an easy one-hour workshop making a variety of yummy cheeses. Check out the Cheese Deli that sells hundreds of local and imported cheeses.

DI X IE

starts with specialty coffee, goes shopping and ends with some history

S AT UR D AY

08:00

10:30

12:00

THE BIG BA N A N A

FISHERMEN’S CO-OP

S TEP UP TO SUP I may not surf anymore, but I do love the ocean.

So with balance on my side and an appetite for some fun, off I go to enjoy an hour of stand-up paddleboarding (coffsjettysup.com.au) just near the Coffs Harbour timber jetty. It’s a good workout, too.

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Time for some food. Every Saturday morning between 10:30-11:30am the Fishermen’s Co-op down at the marina has a morning cook-up serving delicious morsels to those wanting to taste something new.

While I’m there I order a delicious serving of fresh hot chips and crumbed fish.

The Big Banana Fun Park (bigbanana.com) is the biggest fun park on the north coast of NSW. So off I go to check out the eight different attractions. First, the giant slide, said to be the biggest in the country. I have loads of fun being a big kid and especially enjoy the 600-metre toboggan ride.

This place has it all: laser tag, ice skating, water park with four thrill slides, 36-hole mini-golf, 4D Simulator ride, and much more – including a great cafe area.

DESTINATION COFFS HARBOUR

SOME COFF S HIS TOR Y

HIGH-C A ROB DIE T Carobana Confectionery (carobana.com.au) is a familyoperated factory and retail outlet.

You can take a free self-tour of the production area and then indulge in a tasting of carob-coated products.

My favourite was the carob-coated honeycomb until I sampled the carob-coated popcorn. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am-4pm.

PERFEC T VIE W OF COFF S H A RBOUR The panoramic view of Coffs Harbour city, the marina, coastline, mountains and hinterland from the Forest Sky Pier is the centrepiece of Sealy Lookout. As the song goes, "I can see for miles and miles and miles". If you’re up for a rainforest walk, check out the Gumgali track and “interpretive experience” and Korora Lookout Trail.

14:00

I finish my afternoon at the Coffs Harbour Regional Museum where I learn more about the social and cultural history of the area. It’s free entry and open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am-4pm.

17:30

20:00

G R A E ME

does some stand-up paddling, hits the Big Banana and goes sky diving

HIT TING THE JE T T Y S TRIP

FINGER S CROSSED AT 15 ,000 FEE T

MONK E Y BUSINESS The Treetop Adventure Park (treetops.com.au) is a high-wire and zip-line adventure park situated at Sealy Lookout in the Orara East State Forest. Here you can monkey around up high in the trees. This place has awesome flying foxes, Tarzan swings, tightropes, twisted ladders and more!

I decide to take the tandem jump with Coffs Skydivers (coffskydivers.com.au). This was truly my biggest adrenalin rush for the day, or month maybe even the year.

Awesome guys what an experience and easy landing on the beach.

After an exhilarating day it was time to meet up with Dixie for an ice-cold “Happy Hour” drink and then onto dinner. The Jetty Strip has a great variety of restaurants and you’ll be sure to find something that suits your hunger requirements. A favourite of mine is Tahruah Thai, a family-owned business that serves fresh delicious Thai and Vietnamese meals (facebook.com/ tahruahthaiand vietnamese).

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

ON YA TRIK E SUNDAY, FUNDAY It’s always nice to start Sunday mornings at a slow pace.

The Coffs Harbour Jetty area is abuzz, and I head off and indulge in some morning exercises on the very well-planned gym equipment down at Jetty Beach. It’s also the place where I sit and chill and enjoy my first caffeine hit.

H A RBOUR SIDE M A RK E T S Harbourside Markets (harboursidemarkets.com.au) prides itself on being a “makers and growers” market. Situated right on the Jetty foreshore makes it even more pleasant as you wander around the many stalls selling locally grown and made products. Enjoy the free entertainment or treat yourself to some very tasty food or delicious coffee.

One of the best ways to see the outer areas of the Coffs Coast is to take a Coffs Harbour Trike Tour (facebook.com/ coffsharbourtriketours). Lee is a wealth of knowledge about the area and you can sit back, relax and enjoy the scenery while he relays information through the interconnected helmets. My tip is to take a drive to the beautiful Dorrigo or Bellingen regions. You won’t be disappointed.

DI X IE

starts the day at the jetty, goes to the markets and ends with a laugh

S UND AY

09:00

11:00

12:00

BRE A K FA S T IN THE G A L L E Y ’S G A RDEN

A WA L K WITH THE L OC A L S I start my morning early with a walk along the breakwall that shelters the outer harbour. Then I go along Jetty Beach, where I catch up with one of the local birds, Pelly, before heading to the jetty.

The smell of bacon and onions being cooked makes me realise it’s time for breakfast.

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Following my nose I find The Galley (facebook.com/ thegalleytakeaway) tucked in beside the marina’s breakwall, opposite the Fishermen’s Co-op. It doesn’t take me long to choose a beaut burger which I can’t wait to wrap my laughing gear around.

The coffee’s pretty good, too. I’m now ready to take on the rest of the day.

M A RINE S TUDIES Being a lover of all things related to the ocean I head off to the Solitary Islands Aquarium for a “marine-tastic” experience (solitaryislandsaquarium.com).

Here you can explore the underwater world and unique environment of the Solitary Islands. The many aquariums provide an intimate experience where you can learn and interact with marine life of the Coffs Coast.

DESTINATION COFFS HARBOUR A F TERNOON TE A AT THE CL OG B A RNS This is a little piece of Holland in Coffs Harbour. The Clog Barn (clogbarn.com.au) serves up some delicious Dutch afternoon treats. Make sure you check out the miniature model Dutch Village that even has working windmills and a garden railway.

If you’re lucky you may even get to watch traditional Dutch clogs being hand made.

14:00

TIME FOR A L AUGH, OR T WO SPA RK LING TOES After so much walking over the weekend I’m in need of a little pampering, so I head off to have a pedicure and leave feeling refreshed with sparkling toes and ready for a laugh (coffscentralshopping.com.au /portfolio/beauty-spa-nail).

16:00

Next I visit the unique Bunker Cartoon Gallery (bunkercartoongallery.com.au).

This gallery is dedicated to cartoons and it exhibits one of the largest private collections of contemporary cartoons in the Southern Hemisphere. This gallery is situated in a converted heritage listed World War II bunker and is quite spectacular. Time now to go and meet Graeme and chill out after a great weekend.

19:00

G R A E ME

BEER A ND PUB GRUB

RE TAIL THER A P Y WITH A DIFFERENCE

BUT TERFLY KISSES I love being close to nature so off I went to visit the Butterfly House. There’s something magical about walking into a greenhouse filled with butterflies. It has a dreamlike feel as these creatures flutter around, it’s so peaceful. The temperature inside the greenhouse is kept at approximately 29c all year which is the perfect butterfly environment. end. And I find Dixie a gift!

Now shopping is not my thing, but I couldn’t go past the Coopers Surf (cooperssurf.com.au) store located almost across the road from Dolphin Marine Magic and check out the latest Surfboards.

This is another local family business that was started in the Jetty Strip by Bob Cooper in 1969. There are now seven stores around the Coffs Coast.

My finale is the simplest and most joyous combination anywhere: fish and chips on the beach followed by watching the sunset.

Sweetlips (sweetlips.com.au) provides the meal, Bathers Beach the venue, and nature turns on the show. What a fitting end.

explores the area on foot, studies the ocean and then meets Dixie for a weekend toast

FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors, get in touch.

tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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PHOTOS PAUL CHAI

THE ROAD RULES Ahead: four epic, say-goodbye-to-summer road trips.

Jenny Hewett rides shotgun with six on-the-road creatives to discover what’s cool on their favourite self-driven adventures around Australia.

PHOTO CAROLINE CLEMENTS

L

ife can imitate art when you’re on the road. But you don’t need to be Hunter S Thompson to be the master of your own mind-blowing adventure. Just ask these four Aussie creatives.

Throughout history, DIY road travel has been parodied in film, music and novels as a rite of passage. If we can take anything from Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, The Hangover, Little Miss Sunshine and Dumb & Dumber, it’s that four-wheel travel is the pilgrimage we never knew we needed. And with our pristine beaches, scorching sunshine, open spaces, quaint towns and liberated spirit, road trips are entrenched in Aussie culture. So we hitched a ride with six creatives – from four different Tigerair destinations – who do it often, to discover how they make the journey their own. ê

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CREATIVE ROAD TRIPS

Caroline Clements and Dillon SeitchikReardon, authors of Places We Swim placesweswim.com THE ROUTE: PERTH TO DENMARK, WESTERN AUSTRALIA Caroline and Dillon spent a year travelling around Australia testing out the country’s best swimming spots for their book Places We Swim ($39.99, available from leading bookstores).

“Given the state’s immensity and diversity, you can spend days on the road in Western Australia.

But we found the south-west corner to be a foil for the rest of the state.”

WAKE-UP CALL

Cottesloe Beach, Perth “The day at Cottesloe Beach starts at 6am and ends 12 hours later. There’s always a healthy scene at Cott in the morning, so we always take a dip here to wake up.”

STOCK UP

Fremantle Markets, Perth “This is the place to stock up on food for a road trip. We like to eat at Old Shanghai, a hawker-style food court with multiple outlets selling dishes from across Asia. Think Indian curries, big bowls of soupy noodles and Chinese barbecue dishes.”

SUNSET STOP

Castle Rock, Dunsborough “Try and make it in time for sunset. The ocean is unbelievably clear and the coastline from Dunsborough to Cape Naturaliste is reliably calm.

Despite being two kilometres from Dunsborough, this beach gets far less attention than nearby Meelup or Eagle Bay. It’s secluded, peaceful and a little bit romantic.”

WINE AND DINE

Rustico, Hay Shed Hill, Margaret River “This winery came highly recommended by local friends. The tapas bar serves casual Mediterranean share dishes, such as scallops and paella; but to make things easy, get the six-course set menu for $65 and make sure to try their sparkling pinot chardonnay.”

ELEPHANT ROCKS IN WILLIAM BAY NATIONAL PARK

NATURAL SPA

Injidup Spa Pool, Injidup “To get here, scramble around the rocks down to the enclosed rock pool. One minute it’s a clear shallow pool, the next waves crash and cover the surface in bubbly white water.”

“On a good day, Greens Pool is one of the best places you’ll ever visit“ 76

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BUCKET-LIST DIP

Greens Pool, Denmark “Located on the edge of William Bay National Park, giant granite rocks act as a protective boundary around the reefy pool, which is almost entirely closed off from the wild waters beyond. A tightknit, motley crew of swimmers do a 500-metre lap around the perimeter each morning. On a good day, it’s one of the most magnificent places you’ll ever visit. After, warm up with a hot cuppa and house-made carrot cake and melting moments from nearby Mrs Jones Cafe.”

T H E P L AY L I S T Methyl Ethel “Twilight Driving” Total Giovanni “Can’t Control My Love” Cool Sounds “Cactus Country”

CREATIVE ROAD TRIPS

G E T A S L IC E OF W E DDING C A K E R OC K IN T HE R O YA L N AT ION A L PA R K

SOUL SOOTHE

Wedding Cake Rock, Bundeena “Bundeena is on the edge of the Royal National Park. I used to go down here and sit on the wharf and fish. I probably didn’t catch much, but it’s such a peaceful place and there’s a walk to one of my favourite spots. Wedding Cake Rock is exactly what it sounds like: a giant rock that resembles a slice of wedding cake.”

Lauren Winzer, tattoo artist at Hunter & Fox Tattoo @laurenwinzer THE ROUTE: SYDNEY TO GERRINGONG, NEW SOUTH WALES A globally renowned tattoo artist based in Sydney, Lauren has inked celebrities including Post Malone and Miley Cyrus.

“I grew up on the south coast, so I know all the great little spots.”

T H E P L AY L I S T America “Ventura Highway” Toto “Hold The Line” Tina Turner “Simply The Best”

SECRET DIP

Figure 8 Pools, North Era “My family used to camp here. The waves are gentle and the coastal walk down to the campsite is beautiful. The secret Figure 8 pools only appear when the tide is very low, so make sure you check the tides before you head out.”

PIE STOP

The Otford Pantry, Otford “This place has the best pies. I like to grab a coffee and get one savoury, one sweet and then hang out with the local kookaburras, cockatoos and rainbow lorikeets. One of my favourite horse trails is in Otford, so if you’re game, head to Otford Farm and take one of the trail rides through the Royal National Park.”

WHALE SPOTTING

Scarborough Hotel, Scarborough “It’s right on the edge of the coastline and has an amazing outdoor area. I’m always a sucker for the fish and chips, but you can’t go wrong with the menu. It’s pretty common to see whales from the outside tables.”

SWIM AND SPIN

PHOTOS PAUL CHAI

Seven Mile Beach, Gerringong “I spent half of my childhood staying at the Seven Mile Beach Caravan Park and it has a special place in my heart. Even though the caravan park can get busy, once you walk across the road to the beach, it’s bliss. Gerroa Boat Fisherman’s Club usually has live music on weekends for a boogie with ocean views.” ê

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Step inside a world of pure imagination

BOOK NOW Now Playing • Capitol Theatre

CharlieTheMusical.com.au STRATEGIC SPONSORS

@GoldenTicketOz #CharlieAU

CREATIVE ROAD TRIPS

Raph Rashid, food truck entrepreneur and owner of Beatbox Kitchen beatboxkitchen.com THE ROUTE: MELBOURNE TO LAKES ENTRANCE, VICTORIA The Melbourne-based owner of food trucks Beatbox Kitchen and Taco Truck, Raph built his first truck so he could cook burgers at music festivals.

“We probably do this trip two or three times a year during the school holidays.”

RETRO STAY

Tarra Yarram Motel, Yarram “We like vintage motels, so we always stop at the old Tarra Yarram Motel. It’s full of kitschy stuff and we order the breakfast that they push through the little door. It’s really cool to have the family hanging in just the one room.”

PUB AND POOL

Metung Hotel, Metung “I order the local seafood. The bistro is right on the water and really busy, so you have to be organised and make a booking. I always have a few games of pool with the kids here. It’s sort of like a coming-of-age thing; you’re 11 and you’re in the pub and playing pool.”

SEAFOOD STOP

Lakes Entrance Fishermen’s Co-op, Lakes Entrance “There’s a lot of great seafood just off Lakes Entrance and you can buy it straight from the

fishing trawlers at this really great co-op. This is the only place where I’d buy local bugs and prawns and the kids always thinks it’s hilarious that we cook ‘bugs’.”

SKATE AND SHOP

RAPH RASHID LOVES THE METUNG HOTEL; SEE GIPPSL AND FOOD S T O R Y, P A G E 1 3

Orbost

“There’s something for everyone here. I take the kids to the skate park at this little town while my wife Becky goes to the Friends of Orbost Op Shop.

All types of weird and wonderful things pop up at these op shops, especially in the country.”

TREE TREK

Cabbage Tree Palms Walk, Cape Conran “Just inland from Cape Conran are these trees that we like to go and look at called Cabbage Fan Palms.

There are about 15 of them remotely situated here.

I think this is the only area in Victoria where they exist naturally. Living in the city, we always like to take in as much a nature as we can.” ê

T H E P L AY L I S T Sufjan Stevens “John Wayne Gacy Jr” Frank Ocean “White Ferrari” Blood Orange “Saint”

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CREATIVE ROAD TRIPS

Rick Hayward and Emily Devers, visual and mural artists collaborating as Frank & Mimi, frankandmimi.com THE ROUTE: BRISBANE TO SYDNEY Rick and Emily are visual and mural artists based in Brisbane. Together they create large-scale public artworks for communities using environmentally safe paints. “We’ve driven the Pacific Highway many times, camping in our van along the way.”

CULTURE HIT

The Third Quarter, Petrie Terrace, Brisbane “An entirely new concept for showing contemporary art in Australia and a truly unique gallery to visit. It hosts established and emerging artists from many walks of life. Check out the store and the natural wines at the bar while you’re there.”

QUICK DIP

BOOGIE NIGHTS

T H E P L AY L I S T Khruangbin “Two Fish and an Elephant” Nai Palm “Crossfire / So Into You” Sheep, Dog & Wolf “Glare”

Brunswick Heads, Tweed Valley “We’re fortunate to be able to take our work on the road with our favourite brushes tucked into our packs and our little dog squinting into the wind. Following a couple of hours in the van, our Tenterfield Terrier, Peter Allen, is usually ready for a run and a swim. We’re always hoping to catch the high tide for a swim in the crystal-clear estuary here and get a healthy snack.”

Boogie Woogie Beach House, Old Bar “Some creative thinkers took over the old backpackers at this quaint little beach town a few years ago. It hosts local and travelling musicians, has a well-stocked bar and kitchen, and themed motel rooms – just in case you don’t have a home on wheels.”

RETAIL THERAPY

High Swan Dive, Newcastle R I C K A N D E M I LY TA K E T H E I R C R E AT I V E W O R K WITH THEM

“A delight to the senses, this little gem is bursting at the seams with handmade ceramics and lush greenery, and is the kind of place that releases tension from your shoulders as soon as you walk through the door.”

ART AND WINE

Sydney

“We head to Clovelly as quick as we can to sprawl out on the warm rocks. Then it’s to Surry Hills for a meal at Yulli’s before a BYO glass of wine just down the road at “paint and sip” studio Cork & Chroma. where we enjoy a laugh with friends, sip wine and make a colourful mess.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Perth, Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane; tigerair.com.au

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Explore the city inside, outside and underground at the Museum of Sydney

Exhibition on now • slm.is/cities EXHIBITION PARTNER

IN COLLABORATION WITH

EDUCATION PARTNER Adapted from the Lonely Planet Kids titles How Cities Work © 2016 and How Airports Work © 2018 by James Gulliver Hancock, Lonely Planet

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To take advantage of this offer simply mention this advertisement and quote TT1902 at any Enterprise counter or book online at enterpriserentacar.com.au using the code. The offer applies to all vehicles classes. One-day minimum hire is required and offer is not applicable for rental periods exceeding 28 days. Enterprise’s standard terms and conditions and rental qualifications apply. Age and kilometre restrictions apply. Offer is subject to vehicle availability at the time of booking. Further details can be obtained by contacting your local rental branch. This offer may not be used in conjunction with any other promotion, offer, discounted rate, previous or existing reservations. © 2018 Enterprise Rent-A-Car.

Finding another gear in Tasmania

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MOUNTAIN BIKING IN TASMANIA

Matt Shea disconnects from the city and experiences a mountain biking trail like no other deep in the Apple Isle wilds.

PHOTOS BLUE DERBY PODS

D

on’t blink. I say it to myself over and over, like a mantra.

Tasmanian ferns. Scrabbly rock gardens. Enormous beech trees. It all rushes towards me in a colour-blended blur. Don’t blink. Don’t blink. Don’t blink.

I’m hurtling through the Tasmanian wilderness on a very expensive mountain bike. Blue Derby Pods Ride’s Lauren Stranger, our guide, reckons we’re taking it easy. But Lauren is a master on two wheels. I’m barely middling. Right now this is exhilarating, yes.

Easy? No. Ahead of me there’s the growl of skidding rubber and a clang of bicycle spokes. It’s Harrison. He’s binned it. Harrison blinked.

I swoop around a corner to find him half hanging from his bike. All morning we’ve been striking our pedals on the lumps of Tasmanian granite that pepper these trails.

The boulders lie in wait around blind corners, ready to punish unfamiliar riders.

I allow myself a quiet curse each time I clip one of these rocks, but they speak to the history of this place.

Our trail spits us out in the middle of Derby, a tiny settlement 90 minutes north-east of Launceston. Perched precariously on the southern side of a narrow valley, the hills surrounding the town show the scars of its past. A century ago it was one of the most profitable tin mines in the world. That good fortune lasted until 1929 when a dam burst high on the Cascade River and flooded the town, killing 14 people (what looks like a lake beneath the town is actually the flooded remains of the old mining pit). ê

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Stranger says. “I just fell in love with the place.

There was something special about being here.”

RIDING IN But Derby isn’t where we’re staying for the next couple of nights. Lauren and fellow guide Gareth Sutcliffe direct us further east away from the car park and back into the thick Tasmanian bush. We slowly climb along a series of shaded switchbacks, crossing streams and ducking under fern trees.

As we go, Gareth rattles off the names of the trails, familiarising us with the park: Chain Gang becomes the uphill grind of Axehead, which then turns into the traversing Long Shadows. Next comes Flickety Sticks, and suddenly we’re rushing downhill once more, through steep berms carved through thick woods.

“We’re home,” Gareth declares after we splash through the river. Are we? Looking up from my handlebars, all I see is forest. But Gareth swoops

“I just fell in love with the place. There was something special about being here“

Derby never quite recovered from the accident, a population of 3,000 slowly dwindling to barely 200 just a few years ago. But then mountain biking came to town. The local council joined forces with the Tasmanian State Government to open 30 kilometres of trails that criss-cross the Cascade River into the Derby Forest Reserve.

In 2019, Derby is a mecca for mountain bikers.

We pedal past shops, cafes and restaurants, all now dedicated to serving two-wheeled travellers.

Practically everyone around us is on a bike, from experienced semi-pros who swoop out of the bush to the green riders who circle a gentle introductory track around the old mining hole.

The camp site at the eastern end of town is crammed full of cars with bike racks and trailers, a neighbouring “pump track” populated by kids and teenagers honing their skills.

“I remember first arriving here and thinking, ‘Whoa! This is what mountain biking is all about,’”

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MOUNTAIN BIKING IN TASMANIA

BASE CAMP IS A CENTRAL HUB OF HANDSOME TIMBER

under a tunnel of gnarled tea trees, and it emerges in front of us: a handsome building constructed of Tasmanian timber, black corrugated roofing and metres of glass.

This is Blue Derby Pods Ride’s base camp, a central hub consisting of a kitchen, lounge room, showers and bike storage, adjoined by four of the titular sleeping pods. The pods are constructed in the same handsome timber and metal but wrap around their own individual living spaces, almost like a child’s paper telescope – a design that helps protect them from the hard-edged Tasmanian winters.

Blue Derby Pods Ride is the brainchild of Steve and Tara Howell, who five years ago found themselves in their mid-20s and dissatisfied with their day jobs.

“Mountain biking was our release from that,” Steve says. “We were … thinking, ‘What do we really want to do with ourselves?’ We loved the concept of feeling free and going back to being like you

were as a child – getting out of your comfort zone, staying in a tree house-like place.”

“I do remember when we started talking seriously about the idea,” Tara says. “I was guiding on the Overland Track and would come back inspired.

“The specific moment was December 16 [in 2013]. We were sitting at Launceston Seaport having fish and chips for our anniversary and thought, ‘We’re going to do this.’ Within two weeks, we’d both quit our jobs. That was a pivotal moment I remember very clearly.”

We hang our bikes and shower down before relaxing into the evening in the central building, sipping on local craft beer and Tasmanian riesling while Stranger and Sutcliffe prepare dinner. Over plates of confit duck and warm potato salad we compare hero and zero stories before turning in for the night. I settle into my pod, its enormous window showing off the clear night sky, and drift off to sleep, exhausted. ê

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MOUNTAIN BIKING IN TASMANIA

IDEA, MEET OPPORTUNITY The next morning Lauren and Gareth brief us on the day’s ride. We’ll be disappearing back into the bush on the same trails but this time hitting the upper reaches of the park, building on yesterday’s work with more technical climbs and steeper descents. We’re also splitting into two groups. Gareth on this occasion looks after the inexperienced bikers while I ride with Lauren, Harrison and his buddy, Finn.

Blue Derby Pods Ride may not be in Derby itself, but located on the river at the top of a narrow gully it’s at the centre of the area’s enormous network of green, blue, black and double-black-rated trails.

It allows the guides to tailor the rides to different skill levels.

“You can utilise the trails to make sure everyone gets the most out of their day,” Gareth says. “If you were doing a road ride, it’s very hard to have people of different abilities. Here we can do that with the different trails.” ê

ê

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THE AREA HAS DIFFERENT TRAILS FOR ALL ABILITIES

between 1 february until 31 march 2019

MOUNTAIN BIKING IN TASMANIA

Tara reckons Derby’s network of trails were “integral” to her and Steve’s idea for the pods.

“We had an idea, but the opportunity was Derby,” she says.

Lauren promises to take it easy on us, but on this second day the trails come easier anyway – we know the obstacles and ride around them or begin to go straight over the top. We perform an almighty climb up Heartbreak Hill before crossing onto Return to Sender, a brilliant descent that over the course of an hour takes us all the way back to Derby.

Lauren stops after any feature we baulk at – berms incorporating giant slabs of granite, or tricky rock gardens – encouraging us to double back and tackle them for a second time. It’s worth it. Her confidence in our growing skill quickly becomes our own as we begin to descend faster and faster.

By that afternoon, Gareth is comfortable enough with my abilities to show me one of the park’s black runs, Air Ya Garn. It’s the kind of trail pro mountain bikers salivate over – a super fast, super flowing wide track with jump after jump after jump.

I avoid getting airborne, but Gareth still walks over when I arrive at the bottom to give me an enormous high five.

THE BLUE TIER Still, two days spent mountain biking in Derby feel like just a training run. For the entire trip Gareth and Lauren have been talking up the Blue Tier, a sub-alpine plateau to the east of Derby. Another

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YOU’LL SLEEP WELL IN Y O U R P O D A F T E R A D AY ON THE TR AILS

former tin-mining settlement sitting 850 metres above sea level, the pubs, houses and post offices disappeared long ago to leave nothing but a grassy wilderness scattered with boulders and pepperberry bushes.

On our final morning we load our bikes and board a bus for the mountains. The road winds endlessly up, tarmac giving away to gravel and eventually dirt.

At the summit, Gareth guides us to a rocky outcrop with views that stretch all the way from Cape Portland in the north and Binalong Bay in the east, right around to Ben Lomond in the south. It’s breathtaking. “And this is a hazy day,” he says, laughing. ê

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MOUNTAIN BIKING IN TASMANIA

fogging from the heat in my face. But I hardly care.

I don’t want it to end.

As I ride, I think this is what Blue Derby Pods Ride must mean with its tagline, “Experience the Flow”.

Except it doesn’t. Not entirely, anyway.

The way Tara Howells tells it, experiencing the flow is also about making you think differently about life; questioning your direction. It’s about eliminating the distractions on the trails during the day before lying snug in your pod at night, staring up at the stars through its enormous window and maybe – just maybe – achieving that clarity of mind the Howells experienced over a parcel of fish and chips at Launceston Seaport.

“To give our guests that moment of realisation,” Stephen says. “That’s exactly what we’re trying to do.”

For more information, visit bluederbypodsride.com.au

“Biking makes you think about life differently“ TAKING A BIKE THROUGH TASMANIA’S OLD-GROWTH FORESTS

“You can see some of our route,” he continues.

“We’ll traverse over this sub-alpine terrain and then start descending into the forest to the west.”

We mount our bikes. Driver Ben Plunkett gives me a final good luck pat on the helmet before Gareth leads us into the tree line. What follows is 90 minutes of the best mountain biking I’ve experienced. Water crossings, technical climbs, wooded traverses and suspension-punishing rock gardens slowly give way to an exhilarating descent that flows from one berm to the next.

At times the trail spreads us out, giving the riding a blissful man-against-nature feel. Otherwise, we squeeze together as close as we dare, Sutcliffe up front finding the line for the rest of us. Often he needs to: we swoop into blind creek crossings, duck under man ferns and jink between gnarled tree trunks. My nose is freezing, my sunglasses

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Hobart from Melbourne and the Gold Coast; tigerair.com.au

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$36 $22

ROUTE MAP

Where to next?

Tigerair Australia serves 12 destinations right across the country

tigerair bases darwin

cairns

whitsunday coast

brisbane gold coast coffs harbour perth

sydney canberra (act) adelaide

FOR AN UP-TO-THE-MINUTE LIST OF OUR DESTINATIONS, VISIT TIGERAIR.COM.AU

melbourne (tullamarine)

hobart

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#GOLIKEALOCAL

GO LIKE A LOCAL SYDNEY Heading to the Harbour City? Go like a local with Tigerair’s tips – provided

by Tigerair local Bec Adams – on what to see and do in Sydney!

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#GOLIKEALOCAL

S Y D N E Y

Home to the Opera House, Bondi Beach and a stunning backdrop of blue skies, it’s easy to see why Sydney is one of Australia’s most popular destinations.

But there’s more to the Harbour City than sunshine and shorelines.

Whether you want to dine in underground dumpling bars or escape the city to find hidden natural wonders, our local legend, Bec Adams, has your Sydney stay sorted.

L OC A L NIGH T L IF E Sip rooftop cocktails at Coogee Pavilion An unbeatable finish to the Bondi to Coogee walk, this multi-level restaurant and bar is famed for its killer cocktails and coastal views. Beat the heat on the ground floor with wood-fired pizzas, ping-pong and giant Scrabble, or grab a seat on the sun-drenched rooftop for ice-cold drinks with a view. Either way, you and your mates will have plenty of ways to unwind before making the trek back to Bondi.

Visit a historic pub with harbour views If you’d rather stare out to the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, skip “The Pav” in favour

of an afternoon at the Glenmore. Known for its 180-degree views of the city’s iconic landmarks, this historic watering hole makes it easy to sightsee without heading to Circular Quay. And with plenty of attractions located nearby, you can keep exploring after your schooner.

Dig in to dumplings at Uncle Ming’s Rather sip below street level? Trade the city’s rooftop bars for underground dumplings at Uncle Ming’s. Home to some of the best pork buns in Sydney – not to mention a massive collection of Japanese whisky – this late-night eatery and bar is an ideal way to start, or finish, a big night out.

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#GOLIKEALOCAL

L OC A L A C T I V I T IE S See a natural wonder at Wentworth Falls Only a short drive from Leura Garage, this scenic walking track is a must-do attraction before or after lunch. And while it may not be as well-known as the famous Three Sisters, this local trail is one of the Blue Mountains’ best-kept secrets.

Follow the steep but short walk to reach Fletchers Lookout, then continue on to reach Wentworth Falls. It’ll take you about an hour from start to finish, but the spectacular views are more than worth the trip to the top.

Take a break on Bare Island Sydney Harbour has a handful of islands you can reach by ferry, but you don’t need

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a boat to explore Bare Island. Located in Botany Bay at La Perouse, this former fort is now a prime picnic location, with guided tours available to explore the historic grounds. And if you’re a keen swimmer, you’re in luck – the surrounding reefs are a hot spot for local divers, so don’t forget to pack your fins if you fancy a dip.

Tackle the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk Connecting Bondi to Coogee Beach, this six-kilometre coastal walk is a must-do activity for first-time visitors and Sydney veterans alike. And with everything from rock pools to restaurants dotting the path, it’s easy to spend an entire day getting from point A to point B.

GO LIKE A LOCAL WITH TIGERAIR

We put the call out across Australia for locals to share their city’s best-kept secrets. From hidden beaches to hole-in-thewall bars, we reviewed thousands of entries from Sydney, Melbourne, Gold Coast, Adelaide and Perth.

We’ve now chosen our team of local legends to feature in our #golikealocal video series. The videos uncover another side of some of Australia’s favourite holiday destinations, with knowledge that only a local might have. Watch our local legends as they journey through their home cities and find out how you can “go like a local”.

#GOLIKEALOCAL

S Y D N E Y

L OC A L C A F E S Have a seaside brekky at The Boathouse For a morning cuppa with a side of coastal views, it doesn’t get much better than The Boathouse. Tucked away in the seaside suburb of Balmoral, this local cafe specialises in breakfast staples like bacon-and-egg rolls and toasted banana bread. Don’t want to wait for a table by the water? Grab one of their buttermilk scones to take away and soak up uninterrupted ocean views from the headland instead.

Escape the city at Social Hideout Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs are known for their brunching institutions, but they’re

not the only place to find an Insta-worthy meal. At Social Hideout in Parramatta, you can get the same photogenic food fix without the crowds. Go for the famous pink pancakes with seasonal fruit or keep things simple with smashed avo on toast.

When you’re done, you’ll be able to walk off your brunch in the scenic Parramatta Park, with more than 85 hectares of gardens to discover.

room or unwind post-bush walk with stone-baked pizzas and share plates.

With an all-day menu available seven days a week, this cafe-meets-cocktail bar has you covered, no matter when you’re in town.

Grab a bite at Leura Garage If you’re planning on exploring the Blue Mountains during your stay, Leura Garage is the perfect place for a pit stop. Fuel up for an adventure with lunch in their eco-friendly dining

F LY T O S Y D N E Y W I T H U S Ready to discover Sydney’s hidden gems?

Book a cheap flight to Sydney with us today and go like a local.

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THE TALE END

Let your pictures tell a story We want your photos on the Tigerair Australia Instagram feed.

Add the hashtag #tigerairau to your travel snaps and they could appear as part of Tigerair’s social media.

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C A NBE R R A Canberra @carolelvin

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HO WA R D S MI T H WHARVES

P OR T NO A R L UNG A Adelaide @nathangodwin

Brisbane @britinbrisbane

#tigerairau We would love to see your pictures, so use this hashtag when you travel with us!

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Four days, 20 stages, 70 acts, 200 performances

and it’s free! bluesonbroadbeach.com

| @bluesonbroadbeach

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