Tigertales October - November 2019 by Citrus Media

tigertales

TAKE ME AWAY

Australia | October – November 2019

tigerair.com.au Australia | October – November 2019

WHAT HAPPENS ON TOUR... ➔ Female musicians, like Ngaiire, tell us their tales from the road

T R AV E LL I N G N O R T H

W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S

T E L L I N G TA L E S

Why Brisbane is a magnet for interstate chefs

Two different travellers take on Adelaide

Hear the stories of the Tiwi Islands

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WELCOME ONBOARD

Welcome onboard and thank you for choosing to fly with Tigerair Australia

’m excited to announce that we have recently re-imagined our online experience by rolling out a suite of innovations across our digital platforms, including a revamped tigerair.com.au website, upgraded airport kiosk technology and, as this issue goes to print, we are releasing a refreshed mobile app to enable a seamless customer experience. The new website features a transformed flight search function, as well as a new online destination hub to explore Tigerair’s 12 exciting destinations across Australia. The website also provides easier access to the Manage My Booking portal so you can seamlessly enhance your flying experience with extras such as checked baggage or Cabin+ (12kg cabin allowance). Tigerair is the only Australian airline to offer this refreshingly simple and dynamic search experience, providing complete transparency as to fare availability and a seamless and intuitive customer journey from booking to boarding. Snapping up great Tigerair fare deals on the go is also easier than ever before, with improved content experience and faster online performance. In addition to the website enhancements, our upgraded airport check-in kiosks enable you to avoid those pesky airport queues and easily self-manage your booking with the opportunity to add extra baggage, queue jump and seat selection via a kiosk credit or debit card payment. In

other great news, Google Pay boarding passes are now available for both iPhone and Android users, meaning you can simply check in and store your pass in your Google Pay wallet! I encourage you to take the new look website for a test flight and plan and book your next adventure to one of our exciting destinations. If you want to be the first to experience new mobile features as we continue to transform your digital journey, be sure to download our mobile app. This will be my last welcome note as CEO of Tigerair, as I have made the difficult decision to leave the airline after what has been a wonderful career journey with the Virgin Australia Group spanning more than a decade. My time at Tigerair has been an absolute

highlight of that career and I feel privileged to have had the opportunity to lead such an amazing team and to meet so many of our wonderful customers. Rest assured, our incredible team will continue to do what they do best – deliver outstanding customer service with great passion and a friendly smile, so you are in good hands. It has been an absolute pleasure having you travel with us and I am extremely proud of what we have built here at Tigerair. I hope you enjoy your flight today and, for now from me, farewell and happy travels.

From our family to yours, Happy travels! Merren McArthur Tigerair Australia CEO

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CONTENTS

Destination directory Inside this issue… wherever you’re going, we’ve got you covered

Discover the stories of the Tiwi Islands

ENCOUNTER

GIG S ON T HE G OL D C O A S T

WHY I LIVE IN

BR ISB A NE

F E AT U R E

MEL BOUR NE MU SIC W EEK

DZ Deathrays on their fave home town spots

Find out what's on at this music festival

The GC has more than just great waves

20 33

65 WEEKEND

WA R R I O R S

A DEL A IDE

Two different weekends in South Australia

Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Designer Cynthia Lau Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Editorial Assistant Elyssa Kostopoulos Production Manager Ian Scott Cover photo Ngaiire, photographed at The Lansdowne Hotel by Samara Clifford

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Advertising National Advertising Manager Carla D’Agrosa (02) 8188 3668 carla@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestar Web

Management Financial Controller Phung Vuong Director Jim Flynn Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au

Be mysterious in Cygnet, Tasmania

© 2019 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder. Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

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THE POINTY END We have your next great travel stor y

hy is

Me lbo ur

A dog’s life The new trend of pet-friendly hotels

any musicals? ê W om hat to s d o me D Z ho D

ining gets fancy ê d t Spe igh n nd te a l th s: e b n a b

Gippsland ê W

in t h ig

e in v a ac

out Brisbane? ê e ab No lov t ys jus ra t ke th ea 25 – 27

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THE POINTY END

T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O

DR INK

F E S T I VA L S

B O D R I G GY B R E W P U B This new brewpub in Abbotsford gives the Bodriggy brand a home for the first time, and the sprawling 400-plus person joint is huge with a giant flame tree at its centre. The food is Latin American and designed for sharing; the “froffs” menu has all your Bodriggy faves and more, and wines come from Brunswick urban winery Noisy Ritual. Melbourne; bodriggy.beer

BEERFEST Australia’s longest-running, beer festival returns this summer with seven festivals. For the first time, BeerFest will expand its national program to Canberra and Brisbane, while returning to Fremantle, Sydney, Launceston, Melbourne and Perth. Art vs Science headline at all festivals. Across spring; beerfestivals.com.au

W IL DL IF E

SPRING GIN What happens when the country reaches peak gin? Head back to the classics, like UK gin maker Whitley Neill, which has some great flavours for spring like rhubarb and ginger, pink grapefruit, blood orange and raspberry. whitleyneill.com

C U R RUM B I N W I LDL I F E S A NC T UARY Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary has been conserving native wildlife, nurturing local Indigenous heritage, and educating and entertaining visitors for over 70 years. Gold Coast; currumbinsanctuary. com.au

E X HIBI T ION S DREAMWORKS AT NMA DreamWorks Animation: The Exhibition – Journey from Sketch to Screen is on show at the National Museum of Australia. Go behind the scenes of DreamWorks Animation’s most popular films, Shrek, How to Train Your Dragon and Kung Fu Panda. Canberra, Until February 2020; nma.gov.au

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M E LB O U R N E MUSIC WEEK The week-and-a-bit-long celebration of Melbourne’s exciting live music scene returns with its pop-up hub on the Yarra River. See page 58 for a full list of highlights, or go on the famous Rock Safari where venues are free for a night. Melbourne, November 14-23; mmw.melbourne. vic.gov.au

TA I WA N E S E AR T Unfolding Acts: New art from Taipei and Perth marks the 20th anniversary of the Charter of Mutual Friendship between the cities of Perth and Taipei. The show brings together artists who examine the cultural and historical fabric of these two locations. Perth, until December 22; pica.org.au

P E NN ICO T T J OU R N E Y S Tasmanian tour operator, Pennicott Wilderness Journeys, has launched its new cruise to Victoria’s Wilson’s Promontory. This will be the only cruise located in “The Prom” and takes in the famous, and hard-to-get-to, Skull Rock as you cruise the waters of Bass Strait. Melbourne; promcruises.com.au

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THE POINTY END

Glamping in Victoria

WORDS PAUL CHAI

new player in the online sharing economy recently launched in Australia. Glamping Hub aims to be your portal to quirky regional stays – the type that gets you back to nature without having it crawl on you while you sleep. “Airbnb really owns the cities, houses, condos, townhouses and things like that,” says Glamping Hub co-founder Ruben Martinez. “I think the fact that we really specialise is different. You look at some of the other platforms – Airbnb, Booking.com – and they are more of this big tent idea that will take in any kind of accommodation.” I used to think glamping needed to have at least a semblance of canvas, even if that luxury tent also contained a flushing toilet and rain shower. But a quick glance on Glamping Hub and you will find everything from log cabins and bell tents to caves

and tree houses. If anything unites them, it’s their connection to the natural environment. “I also like that each one of these accommodations typically has an experience that is in the area, whether it’s attached to the property or a partnership with a local vendor in town; doing everything from wine tasting to fly fishing, crosscountry skiing or rock climbing,” Ruben says. Ruben says glamping has changed. Each country puts a different spin on the idea, but another uniting factor is the passion of the hosts. “It has evolved because people are beginning to take more risks,” Ruben says. “It is no longer this weird idea of, well, it’s glamping and it has to be $10,000 a night with a butler and helicopter to take you in. “Now, you can take a weekend trip on a lower budget. I love the idea that glamping provides a unique experience for everybody ê

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THE POINTY END and there is something that just fits everyone and their experience.” Let’s check out two Glamping Hub-repped properties from its recently launched list of Victorian stays...

The fairy cottage

Our first property, Tanglewood, looks like Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi (he of the Sagrada Familia) built a weekender for Tinkerbell, with interior design by Bilbo Baggins

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Our first property, Tanglewood, looks like Spanish architect Antoni Gaudi (architect of the Sagrada Familia) built a weekender for Tinkerbell with interior design by Bilbo Baggins. It turns the whimsy up to 11 with octagonal windows, tree roots carved into the walls and a giant gumnut as a rangehood in the kitchen. The first bedroom has a mural of a tree painted on the walls and the second has a glass “star light” in the ceiling. Both have misshapen balconies where you can sit and take in the Australian bush setting, the colours of which are reflected in the interior design. The whole place looks like it was moulded out of clay. Tanglewood is set on Mira Mira Fantasy Accommodation, a property just 90 minutes from Melbourne in Crossover on the road to Mount Baw Baw. It has a handful of unique

The cave house

retreats on 22 acres of bushland. We meet our host, Carl Ward, who lives in the castle you drive up to just after passing under the twisted steel dragon at the property’s entrance. If that all sounds rather bonkers, strap in: there’s more. Carl’s father, Nobby, a retired builder, hails from the UK and he moved to Gippsland to let his imagination run free and build a series of passion projects. First came the Japanese Zen Retreat, which Nobby and his wife Sheila lived in while building the next stay, a cave. They then moved into the cave while building Tanglewood and tested out the fairy cottage while building an English Cottage, and finally Dragon Manor, the stately, turreted home from which Carl now manages the business. Back in Tanglewood, we settle in for a night of card games and nachos surrounded by fairy decals, star-shaped lanterns and sculptures of dragons and gnomes. If Ruben from Glamping Hub says glamping is about risk-taking, uniqueness and out-there hosts, Tanglewood is right on message. As for a connection to nature, our wake up call the following morning is a kurrawong pecking loudly on the star light. We all tumble out of bed and into the day.

THE CAVE-WITHINA-CAVE BED AT MIR A MIR A

Time to get our Flintstones on as we move over to the cave house for the second night. Carl takes us over to the ominous entrance where you walk through the mouth of Magog, a character from the bible said to represent the earth. From there we descend a winding staircase to a man-made cave with carved stalactites and stalagmites, running water features, rustic furniture and three separate openings onto the lush hillside that runs down to a body of water. “This is where we got the name of the business, Mira Mira, from,” Carl says as he shows us around. “’Mirror Mirror’ reflects the English fairytale side of things referencing Snow White, but it is spelled M-I-R-A, which is Aboriginal for reflection.” Sitting outside the cave, you watch the horses graze on the hill, see the gums reflected in the still water and do a little soul searching from the comfort of your home in the ground. Nobby excavated a huge chasm in the hillside, heaped the dirt back in, sprayed concrete over the top of it and let it set for two weeks. He then dug out the soil leaving a concrete cavern that he filled with electrics, and poured a concrete floor. The result is a charming faux-cave with a master bedroom bedecked in leather and iron and a second bedroom whose bed is surrounded by a cavewithin-a-cave for a true back-to-the womb experience; our two boys love their “bubble ê

Time to get our Flintstones on as we move over to the cave house for the second night ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

On show at the National Museum of Australia, Canberra

12 SEP 2019 – 2 FEB 2020 nma.gov.au/dreamworks

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THE POINTY END

GL AMPING HUB HELPS YOU GO A LITTLE WILD

bed” as well as the hundreds of fairy lights that illuminate their room, designed to mimic glow worms. The cave is painted in 17 different hues of browns, and due to the residence being hugged by a hill, it stays at a stable 23 degrees – though there is also a log fire should you get cold. The other side of glamping is the local experiences so, on Carl’s suggestion, we head off to explore the town of Noojee on the way to Toorongo Falls. Noojee is a charming couple of streets with houses, a cafe and a pub huddled around a scenic bend in the La Trobe River. We grab a pie from the cafe and eat it by the river, glared at by hungry magpies

and kookaburras, then discover the “Nooj”, my new favourite country pub. With a huge balcony overlooking the river, a metal dinosaur as a mascot and Wonky, the pub donkey, the Nooj is a welcoming spot that often has big-name country music acts playing. We spend a couple of hours wandering the river and having a drink; the kids bounce on a trampoline while ducking a particularly territorial magpie. We then take the walk to Toorongo Falls where the Toorongo River spills out of the thick bushland of the slopes of Baw Baw before joining the La Trobe River once again. Back at our cave for the night, we light the fire and take turns at DJing. We recap the dive-bombing birds, the trek to the falls and my eldest son’s run-in with a local horse. We saw the largest trestle bridge in the region, bought marshmallows to toast and explored a new area. Glamping may not have to involve canvas anymore, but it can still be intense. For more information visit glampinghub.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

doubling down DZ Deathrays’ new album is part of a double LP

Why I live in

BR ISB A NE 20

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Brisbane trio DZ Deathrays have just finished recording their fourth album, Positive Rising: Part 1, in Los Angeles. The band is hitting the road in October and November in support of the LP before heading back to the studio to record Part 2. Drummer Simon Ridley took some time out of that busy schedule to tell us about life in Brisbane. Hey Simon – tell us about the new album. Because we’re coming up to our fourth record, we wanted to push ourselves a bit more. We were always big fans when, back in the ‘90s, people used to do dual CD releases, like when Smashing Pumpkins put out Mellon Collie and the Infinite Sadness. For this album, we were thinking let’s do something along the same lines – let’s do something we haven’t

done before. So, we ended up going with a two-parter. And having Lachlan [Ewbank] join the band, the first thing we did was a big writing session out at Yass [in NSW]. You played the opening of the Fortitude Valley Music Hall. Can you tell us about the venue? The first thing that blew me away is how incredible it is to be right in the mall. This thing is massive. It’s a passion project for the guys that put it together, and for a musician everything is really great, from loading in to the green rooms and stage. So when we did the night, we had some special guests. We got to play with a good buddy of ours Jeremy Neale, from Velociraptor, and we did some songs with Bernie (Fanning) and Ian (Haug) from Powderfinger. It was a really fun night.

“I have a lot of friends who work there who have been in the music scene for a long time – it’s like hanging out at a mate’s place” S E E D Z D E AT H R AY S Fresh off the back of a huge European tour, and following the news of their fourth full-length LP, Positive Rising: Part 1, DZ Deathrays hit the road through October and November as part of the Positive Rising: Part 1 Tour (Australia, 2019). They will hit Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth and Brisbane, with an all ages or under-18 offering in each city. The new album Positive Rising: Part 1 is out now on I OH YOU (iohyou.com) For a full list of tour dates, visit dzdeathrays.com

night and then travelling the next day. It doesn’t allow a lot of time to be creative.

What other venues in Brisbane do you rate? I like The Brightside (thebrightsidebrisbane. com.au) and Black Bear Lodge. I have a lot of friends who work there who have been in the music scene for a long time – it’s like hanging out at a mate’s place.

Where do you go after a gig in Brisbane? There’s a bar right next to the Fortitude Valley Music Hall (thefortitude.com.au) called Blute’s (blutesbar.com), which is named after a friend of ours from San Francisco. Every time we go to San Fran we stay with him and lots of other people stay with him when they travel, so they set up a sports bar in his honour and we frequent that quite a lot.

Where do you go to get inspiration? There’s a house out at Yass called Blackburn Estate – it’s a big old cattle station and your closest neighbour is up on a ridge a couple of kilometres away, and there’s nothing really to do there except write music. A couple of other bands have gone there like, The Drones. Our tour schedules are pretty hectic; we’re in a new town every

Where are you looking forward to playing on the tour? On our last Australian tour we got to step up into some big venues like the Enmore Theatre. It’s amazing some of the big theatres Australia has. I’m looking forward to going to the Astor (astortheatreperth.com) in Perth and the Tivoli (thetivoli.com.au) in Brisbane. HQ Complex (hqcomplex.com.au) is a good one in Adelaide.

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THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

CROWN METROPOL Why it’s worth it: Whether you’re a visitor to Melbourne or on a staycation, it can be easy to forget just how huge the Crown Complex on South Bank is. Encompassing world-class restaurants, bars, movie theatres and even a mini-golf course, there’s enough to do here that you needn’t step foot outdoors. Using Crown Metropol as a base, you can head out and enjoy all Crown has to offer or hole up in the 28 Skybar Lounge and raise a glass to the glittering skyscrapers of Melbourne.

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Bang for your buck: Judging by the checkin queue, we’re not the only ones in for a fun weekend, Metropol has large work groups, happy hen’s nights and dewy-eyed weekending couples waiting for their room. I’m here for a family stay with my kids who peer goggle-eyed at all the entertainment we pass through on the way to reception. The digs: Our Luxe Twin Room has a view of the city that sees the kids staring at the

WORDS PAUL CHAI

CBD, Melbourne

city lights with an intensity usually reserved for a game of Fortnite. The dual queen beds are decorated in what looks like an ink squiggle with sliding doors to a large bathroom and glass doors fronting the shower and toilet. A work desk sits in the corner, but we’re not going to use that; in fact, we’re not in the room for long at all as the kids are desperate to head back down to the action. Must-do experience: For us it is 18 holes at Holey Moley (holeymoley.com.au), Crown’s rock ‘n’ roll take on mini golf with holes that have you putting into Elvis’s infamous toilet, guiding your ball around the Monopoly board or entering a wind-filled “cash grab” booth for the final hole. The kids love it, and with beer allowed – and a bonus free jelly shot from a roving waiter – adults are

teeing off Kids and adults alike will enjoy a round or two at Holey Moley mini-golf.

happy too. After golf, we head to Ging Thai, a new joint that has replaced David Thompson’s Long Chim at Crown. Ging Thai is a homier take on Thai, but flavours are still punchy and service fast enough to get two very tired and happy kids to their queen bed on time. The damage: Luxe Twin Room from $241; crownhotels.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

Dog-testing Melbourne’s newest hotel

WORDS LINDY ALEXANDER

f you’re a VIP staying at Element by Westin in Melbourne, you can expect all the trimmings – a degustation menu, an extravagant mini-bar, and a new set of plush chew toys. Yes, you read that right. Move over humans: VIPs at the newly opened hotel on the banks of the Yarra River are Very Important Pets. The trend of four-legged friends checking into hotels is relatively new in Australia, but in the United States around 75 per cent of luxury, mid-scale and economy hotels welcome fur babies. It’s a movement that Toni Stoeckl, the

global brand leader of lifestyle brands at Marriott (Element is part of Marriott International), expects to grow rapidly in Australia. “So many people see their dogs as part of their family, so it makes sense that they want to bring them to a pet-friendly hotel,” he says. We do love to spoil our pets in this country – in the last two years, spending on Australian pets increased 90 per cent to $750 million a year. So what exactly does a pampered pooch look for in a hotel stay? I borrowed Rosie, my sister’s rambunctious 10-month-old kelpie cross, to find out. ê

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Puppy love With her partiality to sniffing, nibbling and chomping her way through new situations, the welcome pack of chew toys in our room proves an appreciated distraction for Rosie. While she mauls a squeaky carrot, I check out our digs for the night. From outside, the hotel is all shimmering glass and gently curving angles, reflecting the meandering Yarra River. Meanwhile, the organic feel continues inside with its clean design, natural light and earthy tones. The lounge and library opposite the check-in area are the kind of places you could easily lose a few hours, dog at your feet in front of the glowing gas log fire. The hotel has 168 rooms, five of which are pet-friendly. Our balcony king room has a spacious outdoor area overlooking the river and bustling Swan Street below. There’s a plush dog bed for Rosie (and an extra sheet in case she wants to curl up on the end of my king-size bed), chic Bendo-brand dog bowls and a doggie mini-bar with bandana, plush toys, ball, treats, poop bags and body spray. The mini-bar for humans comes in the form of a 24/7 “grab and go” pantry in the lobby. But if pooch and person need more than just a quick snack, you can grab a table at the hotel’s restaurant, Mint Lane. For humans there’s a menu featuring modern Australian dishes (think roasted chicken with charred corn puree, miso glazed eggplant and braised lentils), and for pups there’s a doggy degustation (a dogustation, if you will), which has dishes such as the Quarter Hounder (pan fried steak with green vegetables).

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“With Rosie’s partiality to sniffing, nibbling and chomping her way through new situations, the welcome pack of chew toys in our room is an appreciated distraction”

THE POINTY END

More Fidofriendly digs Every Ovolo Hotel across Australia is pet-friendly. Human guests get a complimentary loot bag and free mini-bar while VIPooch pups get their own “doggy bag”. The Fairmont Resort & Spa Blue Mountains MGallery by Sofitel has a pet-friendly room with a fenced courtyard. The Travelodge Resort Darwin has a selection of individual pet-friendly townhouses with courtyards.

HOUSEKEEPING WON'T NEED TO MAKE THIS BED

The presence of dogs gives a lovely neighbourhood feel to the hotel, and the “Relax Reception” – a happy hour-and-a-half (thankfully not a “yappy hour”) held at Mint Lane between 5pm to 6:30pm Mondays through to Thursdays, with complimentary snacks – also adds to the welcoming vibe. While you can explore the neighbourhood by borrowing a complimentary bike (take your pick from tandems, canopy and children’s bikes), Rosie and I are content sitting on the balcony and watching rowers glide past on the river. “What do you think?” I ask her. She cocks her head and lets out a short, sharp bark. I’m pretty sure that’s dog speak for, “It’s pawsome.” The Element Hotel is at 588 Swan Street, Richmond; marriott.com

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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advertorial

T HE BIG B A N A N A F UN PA R K Coffs Harbour’s most famous icon, The Big Banana was first opened back in 1964 and, since then, has defied the odds, changing with the times to continue to attract over one million visitors per year. It all started as drawcard to pull people off the road to a roadside banana stall, but The Big Banana is a far cry from what it was back then. The Park has undergone a number of transformations over the past 55 years, but recent upgrades and additions have converted this iconic landmark into a true Theme Park, with rides and attractions for all ages. There is something for everyone at The Big Banana Fun Park, which now boasts nine major attractions including Toboggan Ride, Ice Skating Rink, 36 hole Mini Golf course, The

World of Bananas Theatre and Tour Experience, a state-of-the-art Laser Tag arena, the biggest Water Park between Sydney and the Gold Coast, the biggest Giant Slide in the country known as “The Racer”, a 4D Ride Simulator, and Go Bananas Fun Zone. In addition to the great rides and attractions on offer, the park also features a Gift Shop boasting the biggest selection of banana-themed souvenirs and gifts in the world, Going Bananas Café, Coffs Candy Making Kitchen, The Opal Centre, Cheese Making Workshop & Deli, Steve McEwan’s Reptile World and, of course, The Big Banana itself for a big Coffs Harbour selfie! For more information on this fantastic attraction, visit www.bigbanana.com

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THE POINTY END

THE PASSENGER

TRAVEL & SONGS

1 0F 2

A round-table chat with three different travellers. This issue’s topic: travel songs

Paul Chai, Larger Than Life I have a guilty secret to confess: I own a Backstreet Boys CD. I purchased the CD single (remember those?) “Larger Than Life” when I returned from a two-week trip through Italy with an old school friend in 1999. We spent a fortnight having lavish piazza dinners in Rome, travelling by train to the dusky-red streets of Siena and diving from the cliffs below our vertiginous hotel in Positano. And the Backstreet Boys were our constant companions. These being the days before smartphones, if we had wanted to take our whole record collection with us we would have needed a truck, not a pocket. Instead, we relied on the kindness of MTV, local radio and nightclubs. Boy, did

they loooove Nick, Howie and the crew – you couldn’t escape that song. We would check in to a hotel and make a bet how long it would before the naff futuristic video of the boy band in space would appear on our TV screens. Later that evening, the song would follow us from bars to Italian night clubs. I even heard it at the airport bathroom when we were leaving to come home. If you could take a restraining order out on music, we would have. “Larger Than Life” is a song I never liked, grew to hate, and then learned to love because now it brings back the indelible memories from that European holiday. I can just put it on and be transported back to our Roman apartment, sitting on the floor drinking cheap Italian red wine

and celebrating the fact we found each other because my friend was delayed 24 hours on Eurail, in the days before you could pop someone a handy text saying “Derailment, see you tomorrow.” Music and travel go together like beach sunsets and pina coladas. It’s an essential part of the travel experience, whether you excitedly make playlists or burn CDs for a road trip, or just soak up the sounds around you while on holiday. Much of our travelling time exposes us to the background music of the bars, restaurants, shops and hotels we frequent. Often, it does what it says on the tin and remains in the background, but we’ve all had the ambient music that has leapt to the forefront, often for all the wrong reasons. ê

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THE POINTY END TRAVEL & SONGS

It’s the shop that plays doof-doof tracks so loud that they drive you out of the store; it’s the elevator muzak that takes your favourite songs and commits murder by panpipe, or the supermarket that starts its Christmas carols in July. Or the Backstreet Boys.

Connor McLeod, road trip songs When I was in my first job, my boss was an avid road tripper. He would describe the joy of driving for hours, with the window down because air conditioning didn’t allow you to get a proper feel for a place – it was distancing, distracting. He was a purist. He would describe landscapes like vivid oil paintings and roadkill like Jackson Pollock paintings. He would also make me mixtapes with songs on them like the Triffids’ “Wide Open Road” and Joni Mitchell’s “Refuge of the Roads”, the last verse of which still makes me want to jump in a car, wind down the window and just take off. “In a highway service station / Over the month of June / Was a photograph of the earth / Taken coming back from the moon; And you couldn't see a city / On that marbled bowling ball / Or a forest or a highway / Or me here least of all; You couldn't see these cold water restrooms / Or this baggage overload / Westbound and rolling taking refuge in the roads”

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"HE WOULD DESCRIBE LANDSCAPES LIKE VIVID OIL PAINTINGS AND ROADKILL LIKE JACKSON POLLOCK PAINTINGS" I got my love of the road from listening to these tapes and talking about road trips as they played in the background during work downtime.

Sarah Mitchell, “Daysleeper” Playing music that connects me to my travels is more evocative than looking at photos. A photo may trigger a memory, but the right song will trigger a feeling. I spent a very memorable New Year’s Eve in San Sebastian. It was the end of a road trip with a very special set of friends and we had just rolled into town with no real plan. Three carloads of us gravitated towards the sweeping harbour, collecting wine and takeaway pizza from restaurants as we went. Seeing us,

a homeless local came down with a battered old beatbox and played music with us, and we shared our bounty. Over the next few hours, more people joined the party, bringing grapes to ring in the New Year in the local tradition. We all wound up in a night club located under the stairs that led down to the beach. Later, we heard that REM had recorded the crashing of the San Sebastian waves against those same steps while touring and the band had used the wave sample in the song “Daysleeper” (you can hear it at the 2:05 mark). That song will always take me back to that impromptu New Year party.

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THE POINTY END

Catch a gig on the Gold Coast

WORDS MATT SHEA

he comeback started with Bleeding Knees Club. For years, Gold Coast music had been on the back foot, pincered by a lack of venues, the wider music industry’s fraught digital transition and the city’s overarching economic funk following the GFC. If you were in a band on the Coast in 2011, you were just as likely to hitch your wagon to the then-thriving Brisbane music scene (where many artists were regularly playing anyway). But when Bleeding Knees Club emerged with their debut EP Virginity in 2011 they were

brazenly, unapologetically Gold Coast. “That’s when I saw the shift,” Brad Hosking says. “They were one of the first to say, ‘We’re from the Gold Coast.’ And that spawned a bit of a movement. People were suddenly thinking, ‘We can say we’re from here.’ It helped for sure.” Hosking has been on the frontline of Gold Coast music for 17 years, first as a student, then as a song and jingle writer, and finally as a producer, lecturer at TAFE Queensland, and session and touring musician for artists and bands such as Amy Shark, Electrik Lemonade and City Over Sand. ê

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THE POINTY END

He remembers being blown away by the city’s music scene when he first arrived from Townsville in 2002. “There were bands playing seven nights a week and earning a living. I thought, ‘Holy moly!’ The surf culture had a lot to do with it at the time – artists like Jack Johnson were really big. So if you were into that music, this was the obvious place to be rather than Brisbane.” Ask Hosking about what bands he was checking out at the time and he goes deep: ska-influenced groups such as Doctor Octopus and Madison Kat; roots artist Chris Ernst; and ribald rock bands like The Delta Riggs. They were playing iconic venues such as The Rose and Crown and Fisherman’s Wharf Tavern, which also regularly hosted touring bands. “My mentality was, if you could get a gig at Fishos on a Sunday, you’d made it,” he says. “Nirvana played there [at the original Fisherman’s Wharf site just near the current venue] back in the 90s.”

Rich musical history It’s true. Reach back before Hosking’s time and you find out just how deep the Coast’s live music history goes. Erik Weideman and Richard

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Clapton played The Patch; The Church and INXS appeared at Jet Club in Coolangatta; and Split Enz, Midnight Oil and Rollins Band all played The Playroom. On the other hand, it’s the Gold Coast’s long status as a leisure and entertainment destination that accounts for its own local live music chops, Hosking says. “There was a long period where the Gold Coast was seen as the covers capital of Australia. Tourists would come, or end-of-year football trips, say. They’re not here to watch originals; they’re here to have a good time and hear ‘Working Class Man‘.” That culture of covers is still alive and well on the Coast. You can go somewhere as honest as First Avenue Tavern and watch guitarist-singer Dan Hannaford – an accomplished originals artist – slice his way through foot-stomping, genre-bending interpretations of Bob Marley’s ”Exodus“ crossed with Oasis’s “Wonderwall”. Still, it’s up-and-coming artists producing original music who are making the most noise on the Coast right now. “Recorded music on the Gold Coast is the

ELLA FENCE HAS NO INTENTION OF LEAVING THE GC

strongest it has ever been,” Hosking says. “There are young artists making music in their bedroom. There are really great surf, skate and punk scenes, and now there’s a great neo-soul movement bubbling away … you see them coming together, putting on shows. It doesn’t matter the genre, it’s just about living on the Gold Coast.” The internet now makes it easier for musicians to distribute their music, meaning they can stay living on the Gold Coast and keep contributing to a local scene. “You can have global success just around streaming and build communities around what you do,” Hosking says. Ella Fence agrees. The singer-songwriter, born Stephanie Pickett, deals in ultra-slick electro-pop delivered with a hefty dash of darkness, and is gearing up to release a debut album in early 2020. She says that while she tours overseas frequently, basing herself on the Gold Coast has been essential to her success. “I have an international mindset but operate on a local level, I guess,” she says. “I never thought I had to move anywhere else. It’s more about funding my art and focusing on that … it’s about growing a business, which is what I’m doing.” Fence, like Hosking, is now at the forefront of the Coast’s new movement in music, and a beneficiary of the city council’s investment in arts after landing one of the council’s Activate Music grants. Ask how the funding contributed to the recording of the album and she’s frank. “It exists,” she says, laughing. “It’s so expensive to make an album. I put a lot of time and energy into everything that I do. And in order to keep that standard it costs money.

“I have an international mindset but operate on a local level, I guess. I never thought I had to move anywhere else”

THERE ARE MORE OPTIONS THAN EVER F O R M U S I C- L O V I N G GOLD COASTERS

“Absolutely, we’ve felt the support from the Gold Coast City Council. They do activation programs and mentorship programs … [they’re] not just about ticking boxes. It’s tangible opportunities for artists and what they could lead to.” That council is now piling its support into the live side as well. The city’s Home of the Arts (HOTA) arts centre (135 Bundall Road, Surfers Paradise; hota.com.au) boasts a huge 5,000-capacity outdoor amphitheatre, and is now hosting 500-capacity Sunday Lakeside Sessions, designed to slot in with touring artists who play a major Brisbane gig on the Saturday night. The gallery also has Fridays on the Lawn, which features artists such as Danny Widdicombe, Loki Liddle and Lily Budiasa. Going forward, mayor Tom Tait has said increasing the number of live shows on the Gold Coast is a key aim of the city’s much-vaunted Music Action Plan 2021. But the renaissance is taking place with or without council support. In Southport, Chris Norman has opened Vinnies Dive (44A Nerang Street, Southport; vinniesdive.com.au), ê a 100-person-capacity band space with

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THERE ARE BIG PLANS FOR HOTA (HOME OF THE ARTS)

“There’s a disproportionate number of amazing musicians here” a whopping 110-decibel noise limit. At the other end of the Coast, immensely popular Burleigh spot Mo’s Desert Clubhouse (6/36 Central Drive, Burleigh Heads; mosdesertclubhouse.com) is set to relaunch after a gruelling approval process – it too is rated for 110 decibels. Elsewhere, there are classy bars like The Cambus Wallace (4/2237 Gold Coast Highway, Mermaid Beach; cambuswallace.com.au) and The Scottish Prince (27/1176 Gold Coast Highway; thescottishprince.wordpress.com), which regularly host hip-hop DJs or intimate jazz and acoustic gigs.

The increased demand for live music is having other effects. Chris and Mimi Tuohy developed Gigl (gigl.com.au), a live music marketplace app, to help artists find venues that were wanting to book live music. But it quickly proved handy for live music fans navigating their way around the Coast’s growing live music scene. “It was just a booking platform for venues and musicians to connect,” Chris says. “Then we started to realise how difficult it was to find live music. We thought, ‘Let’s get a live music gig guide going too.’” “There’s a disproportionate number of amazing musicians here,” Mimi adds. “We think we know the majority of the musicians in this area and every day we have someone else contacting us through Instagram, and through them we find three more. It’s a really exciting time.” Investigate the Gold Coast’s thriving music scene at wearegc.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Gold Coast from Melbourne, Hobart and Sydney; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

THE POLE HOUSE Fairhaven, Victoria

hy it’s worth it: Since it was first built in the 1970s by architect Frank Dixon, this impossible-looking home perched on a single pole on the Great Ocean Road is one of the most photographed homes in Australia. It’s a grand design before Grand Designs was a thing. Stand on the vertiginous balcony and take in your 180-degree-plus view – you’ll get affectionate beeps from road trippers as they tackle the curves of the Surf Coast. This house is a celebrity, and a little bit of that fame seeps into your stay.

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Bang for your buck: This is an unrivalled view of the Great Ocean Road. You feel part of the surrounds as you hover, spaceship-like, over this famous stretch of road – and it’s a similar sensation inside thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows pointed like a steel arrow towards the crashing surf. You’re also part of Surf Coast history – most people in Melbourne have rubbernecked at the Pole House on a coastal road trip. The digs: Inside it’s a minimalist, masculine space with dark leather couches, dark walls and a small

pole position Enjoy 180-degreeplus views out to the Surf Coast

Your bathroom is contained inside the central “pole” allowing very little to distract you from that view

table to sit at – even your bed is a foldout couch, albeit a very good one. After an upgrade from the new owners, the Pole House is high-tech with blinds sliding closed at the touch of a button and Logitech speakers allowing you to play tunes as you watch the swimmers and dogwalkers. Your bathroom is contained inside the central “pole” allowing very little to distract you from that view.

Must-do experience: For a dinner to match the digs, head to Lorne where chef Frank Camorra has opened MoVida Lorne by the seaside. This MoVida is fashioned on Spanish restaurants, called chiringuitos, which open on the coast and serve simple food focusing on fresh seafood and local produce. The menu might include fish grilled straight off the boat or local Forrest mushrooms in a tortilla. For a more casual night out, try the Aireys Pub five minutes down the road, with not-your-average-pub grub like a quesadilla with beans cooked in tequila and stout with sweet pumpkin and black bean salsa. The damage: The Pole House starts from $500 a night; greatoceanroadholidays.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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GET ON THE PEACE

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THE POINTY END

Be mysterious in Tasmania

WORDS DANIELLE ROSS WALLS; PHOTO SAMUEL SHELLEY

asmania has always been a little bit different; a little bit mysterious. It was once a hell-on-earth colony reserved for castaway criminals. Then there was the era of those two-headed jokes. But now the island is at the forefront of tourism trends with attractions like MONA – (the Museum of Old and New Art) that love to break all the rules. And growing in popularity are events such as the annual Huon Valley Mid-Winter fest, where people gather for the ancient tradition of wassailing (drinking and singing to the apple trees to ward off evil spirits to ensure a fruitful crop).

So, it was no great surprise to me to hear about the new Terror Australis Readers and Writers Festival. Themed “Murder She Wrote” for its inaugural year, it opens in late October in picturesque Cygnet. An easy 50 minutes south of Hobart, the small township is nestled between the stunning D’entrecasteaux Channel and the Huon River. The area boasts an abundance of fruit orchards and lush green hills that roll down to mirrorreflecting waters below where local sailing boats rest. It makes an inspiring location for this literary event debut. Being a voracious reader myself and curious of writing in all its genres, I’m intrigued by the promise of dangerous stories and wicked ê

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THE POINTY END

Cygnet attractions for before and after the mystery festival F AT P I G F A R M

ILHA RESTAUR ANT

How could an asparagus spear picked fresh from the earth and eaten immediately taste so incredible? It’s this kind of experience that guests rave about after being at Fat Pig Farm. The family farm is run by SBS television host of the Gourmet Farmer Matthew Evans and wife Sadie, their son and a small passionate team who pride themselves on the fact that 90-95 per cent of what is served at their restaurant comes straight from the land. The restaurant is open most Fridays by appointment and the menu is rarely the same; it’s intentionally styled to coincide with the seasons and availability of produce (think green pie featuring stinging nettle). Matthew’s latest book On Eating Meat has just been released, and it certainly has people talking. fatpig.farm

Television’s MasterChef 2018 top 10 favourite Sarah Clare’s new venture, Ilha – meaning “Island” in Portuguese – is a restaurant with a difference. It aims to make a change for the better through its attitude to sustainability. The vibe is casual modern Australian with a South American influence – a nod to Sarah’s international travels and experience. Her signature dishes feature local wallaby and other surprising items such as chicken hearts. The menu also embraces the seasons and availability is always subject to a surprise or two. 23 Mary Street, Cygnet

PAGAN CIDER Have you ever tried blueberry cider? Or perhaps strawberry, cherry, apricot or peach cider? How about quince cider? Sample these limited-edition varieties, as well as the more traditional apple and pear, at this cellar door that prides itself on its innovation to rescue “homeless fruit”. (The local farmers are paid a good price for fruit that could not otherwise be used). The result is a wide range of beautifully crafted unique ciders that celebrate the Tassie seasons and are found nowhere else. pagancider.com.au

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“Tassie was once a hell-on-earth colony reserved for castaway criminals”

CYGNET IS HOSTING A MYSTERY AND CRIME FESTIVAL

words of dark and mysterious worlds. The stellar line-up features the likes of Kerry Greenwood (writer of the popular Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries), international guest Shamini Flint, and mysterious and ever-changing author Tara Moss. The Cygnet community is a mix of long-time farming families and creatives – think cider makers, artisan bakers, actors, musicians, authors, film producers, food stylists and cattle farmers. The festival showcases the area through various smaller events including the Trail of Tears – a combination of food, wine and books. I do wonder though; if I were to step back in time, would those poor castaway criminals believe me if I told them of the Tassie of today? The TAF2019 runs from October 31 to November 5; terroraustralisfestival.com

IMAGE BERNDT SELLHEIM

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Hobart from Melbourne and the Gold Coast; tigerair.com.au

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THE POINTY END THE FEAST 1 0F 2

LATE-NIGHT DINING SHINES For decades, late-night options generally boiled down to which type of kebab to have – but no more

ILLUSTRATION JESSICA HU

ntil recently, late night dining options in Australia’s state capitals, places serving food until at least midnight, were limited. Those of us who are of a certain age will remember many a night out where the options for food before heading home were mostly limited to fast food outlets (not that there’s anything wrong with an early morning Big Mac). Each city had (and still has) its institutions, but these were rare gems. Stalactites in Melbourne, Billy Lee’s in Perth, Golden Century in Sydney to name a few. Change has been afoot, however, and today the options for late-night dining in Australia’s big cities has never been better.

As Australia’s cities grow and evolve, the demand for quality food options well into the night has been steadily increasing. Melbourne has seen the greatest change, driven by its increasing population and general support from the authorities towards making it a safe, vibrant, 24-hour city. There are more people working and living in the centre of town than ever, and their varied lives means that there’s always demand for good food outside of traditional hours. The next biggest change has been in Sydney, but growth there has been tempered somewhat by the city’s lockout laws (which, at the time of writing, look set to be mostly repealed).

As the number of establishments offering late-night eats has increased, so too has the quality and variety of what’s on offer. The primary driver for this is that late night dining is no longer just the domain of those looking for some carbs after a big night out. More people are working non-standard hours than ever before, and they have a desire for quality when their shift ends. “Cheap and cheerful” venues exist alongside costlier, more refined affairs, and the winner is the diner. From ramen to dumplings, burgers to pasta, steak to lobster, and more, one could happily eat out late throughout the week and never have the same thing twice. No matter where you are in Australia, there are quality options for you. Turn over for a few worth checking out... ê

THE CIT Y L A NE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture online magazine The City Lane, and he is one-third of the craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective. Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.

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THE POINTY END THE FEAST 2 0F 2

Bar Margaux (Melbourne, VIC) This late-night French brasserie opened just a few months ago and has become an instant classic, which should come as no surprise given that it’s from the team behind two of Melbourne’s best bars – the Everleigh and Heartbreaker. Chef Daniel Southern and his team pump out an assortment of French bistro classics until 3am during the week and 5am on weekends. And since it’s a bar, the drinks are fantastic too. The MGX burger has become the bar’s signature item, and rightly so. Sandwiched between a soft bun you get two beef patties, gooey cheese, bacon and a sauce filled with chunks of unctuous roasted beef marrow. Order it to share so you can try some of the other things on the menu too, like duck frites, and escargot de Bourgogne swimming in heavenly garlic butter.

Big Poppa’s (Darlinghurst, NSW) This Italian restaurant, cheese den, bar, and house of hip-hop beats was opened in 2016 by Lewis Jaffrey (ex-Shady Pines, The Baxter Inn) and Jared Merlino (exLobo Plantation). It’s a perfect example of what can happen when sun-soaked Sydney embraces the night. Open until 3am every day of the week, Big Poppa’s offers delicious cocktails and a reduced menu in the downstairs bar section, and a more substantial menu

upstairs in the restaurant section. Cheese is a big focus here and takes up two of the menu’s three pages. The bar’s worth visiting for cheese and cocktails alone, but if you’re in the mood for a full meal, upstairs is where you want to be. Upstairs is all about simple Italian food done right. Think mezzi rigatoni with tomato, peppers, nduja, stracciatella, and basil, Roman beans and broccolini with stracciatella, pangrattato, almonds, chilli, lemon, and pork & veal meatballs with sugo di pomodoro, polenta, pecorino romano. You won’t walk away hungry.

Panama Social (Northbridge, WA) Paul Aron and Michael Forde, the team behind Mary Street Bakery and Tiny’s, opened this bar and eatery last summer. Since then, it has established itself as a Northbridge favourite. The “neotropical” spot takes its influences from across the Caribbean, Central America and South America with a vibe and menu that’s fun, vibrant, and delicious. The food and drinks here aren’t about aiming for pure authenticity, but rather delicious creations that work well, using ingredients and techniques from across the region. The result is fantastic. Try the fried Caribbean sandwich with beef tartare, and crispy fish, or the wood-grilled jerk chicken with lime until midnight during the week and 1am on weekends.

AS AUSTRALIA’S CITIES GROW AND EVOLVE, THE DEMAND FOR QUALITY FOOD OPTIONS WELL INTO THE NIGHT HAS BEEN STEADILY INCREASING 46

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NOLA (Adelaide, SA) Housed in old horse stables dating back to 1903, NOLA is one of those venues that ticks all of the right boxes. As the name suggests, the bar and restaurant is inspired by New Orleans, but unlike many others that tread down this sort of path, the owners have done a great job of creating a place that actually feels like the kind of venue you’d find in New Orleans. A tacky imitation NOLA is not. There’s live jazz, a tap list of 16 independent craft beers, over 200 whiskies and a fantastic cocktail list on offer. The food menu focuses on Creole and Cajun soul cuisine – think gumbo, fried chicken, po’ boys and beignets. Local, independent producers and suppliers are championed at NOLA and, being on this list, you know it’s open late. Until midnight on weekdays and 2am on the weekend.

Heya Bar (Fortitude Valley, QLD) Inspired by the alleyways and bars of Tokyo’s late-night bar hopping haven Golden Gai, Heya Bar condenses some of that district’s vibe into one convenient location. The venue is a joy to explore with four distinct bars inside and a whole lot of little zones and hidden bits and pieces. There’s a great assortment of Japanese and local beers, local and international wines, and on-theme cocktails, plus a fantastic street food menu. The small but mighty pan-Asian inspired menu rotates regularly, featuring things like duck and pork bone broth ramen, meat and veggie dumplings, and karaage chicken with sriracha mayo. The kitchen’s open until 1am Wednesday to Thursday, and until 2am on the weekend. A great option for a quality late night feed in Brissie.

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THE POINTY END

See a musical in Melbourne

WORDS JOANNE BROOKFIELD

or most people, when you have a delayed or rerouted flight, it’s usually something that gets resolved fairly anonymously. You sit it out, make some calls, complain a lot. It’s not likely that your tale of inconvenience will end up as a smash hit Broadway production. But this extraordinary twist of fate is exactly what happened to a group of people known as the “Come From Aways” or “Plane People”. When the Twin Towers came down on September 11 in 2001, 38 international flights

were rerouted to the small Canadian Province of Newfoundland, home to Gander International Airport. This sudden influx of people from all walks of life – the Plane People – almost doubled the population there, which is a lot of unexpected visitors to suddenly accommodate. However, the “Ganderites” welcomed these displaced and distressed strangers into their homes. Literally. Because the hotels were soon full. And their schools and gymnasiums. And anywhere they could temporarily house them in the globally tumultuous week that followed.

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THE POINTY END

The incredible kindness of these people inspired Irene Sankoff and David Hein to write Come From Away, a musical theatre show about an international terrorist act and the logistics of finding enough toilet paper for 7,000 stranded guests. It’s a lumpin-the-throat, heart-soaring, feel-good hit. From Broadway to the West End, it plays to packed houses – and the Australian company production in Melbourne is no different. Night after night, audiences leap to their feet in a standing ovation – which is high praise indeed in a city awash with other musical theatre options. “Romantically speaking, theatre districts on the West End and Broadway have a collective

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“I know that in forward planning meetings on where a new Broadway musical should be heading next, Australia is considered almost immediately” hum. All those pretty theatres with their marquees so close together; there’s a sense that something magical is happening inside all of them. Melbourne has a similar feel. The Princess, Her Majesty’s, the Comedy (Theatre), The Athenaeum and the Regent are all close enough to each other to create a commercial theatre district, albeit on a smaller scale,” says Eddie Perfect of these theatres, which are all within walking distance of one another within Melbourne CBD. Having conquered Australia’s theatre scene (and comedy and TV acting, while he was at it), Perfect now lives in New York and works on Broadway himself, writing the songs for King Kong and, more recently, Beetlejuice, which earned him a highly prestigious Tony Award nomination for Best Original Score.

COME FROM AWAY IS JUST ONE MUSICAL IN MELBOURNE

Musicals currently scheduled in Melbourne’s theatres C O M E F R O M A W AY Until December 22 Comedy Theatre; comefromaway.com.au

CHARLIE AND THE CHOCOL ATE FACTORY Until December 1 Her Majesty’s Theatre; charliethemusical.com.au

R AGTIME Opens November 2 State Theatre, Arts Centre Melbourne; artscentremelbourne.com.au

CHICAGO THE MUSICAL Opens December 14 State Theatre, Arts Centre Melbourne; chicagothemusical.com.au

SONGS FOR NOBODIES Opens December 18 Fairfax Studio, Arts Centre; artscentremelbourne.com.au

COMING UP IN 2020

SHREK THE MUSICAL Opens February 19 Her Majesty’s Theatre; shrekthemusical.com.au

B I L LY E L L I O T T H E M U S I C A L Opens February 20 Regent Theatre; billyelliotthemusical.com.au

BRAN NUE DAE Opens June 12 Comedy Theatre; brannuedaemusical.com.au

FIDDLER ON THE ROOF Opens November 15 Comedy Theatre; marrinergroup.com.au

COMING UP IN 2021

MOULIN ROUGE Opens 2021 Regent Theatre; marrinergroup.com.au

“I know that in forward planning meetings on where a new Broadway musical should be heading next, Australia is considered almost immediately,” he says. “American creative/producing teams have longstanding relationships with Melbourne’s theatre-making community. They essentially know they have the musicians, designers, performers and tech crew to make high quality theatre in Melbourne, and an audience willing to see what Broadway’s been up to.”

He’s not kidding. At time of writing, Come From Away, a Melbourne exclusive, had released an extra 40,000 seats to meet demand. Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, the most awarded production in the history of Britain’s Olivier Awards, similarly exclusive to the Princess Theatre, has extended its run to June 2020. They’re just two examples of many. It means that on any given night in Melbourne, you’re able to see world-class productions. Queensland-born ballet dancer Aaron Smyth has spent the better part of his career performing overseas in the US and UK, for elite ballet companies like The Joffrey Ballet. More recently, he spent a year on London’s West End in An American in Paris. He now returns home to spend a year playing older Billy in Billy Elliot The Musical, another Broadway and West End hit to tour Australia with an Australian cast and crew. “Melbourne certainly has a reputation for great musicals and the arts,” he says. “The theatres are so iconic and have so much history. Melbourne is the perfect place to see a show.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s A ARON SMY TH STARS IN BILLY ELLIOT THE MUSICAL

to Melbourne from nine destinations; tigerair.com.au

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THE PACK

T HE P L AY L I S T

THE POINTY END

Pack these on your next trip away

STUFF TO BUY BEFORE YOU GO

Ü 1 MINT T TRIPLE CAMER A Y3 SMARTPHONE

Amazing triple camera smartphone with more style and features, for less. AI camera technology, UHD, NFC capability, Wireless charging, Dual SIM. $399 mintt.co

CHARLI XCX CHARLI

Charli XCX combines the cutting-edge and the pop on this remarkable third album. There’s plenty of full-throttle dance floor filler on Charli – lead single “Gone” may be her best yet. But it’s electronically stacked slow poison like “Thoughts” and “Official” that stay with you longer afterwards. A contender for the 2019 end-of-year lists. Ideal for… the upcoming summer festival season

2 JOHN PLUNKETT’S SUPERFADE ACCELER ATOR Get clearer, more even skintone with John Plunkett’s Superfade Accelerator Serum. Patented cytovector technology allows superior penetration of ferulic acid to visibly lighten pigmentation. RRP $19.95; available from pharmacies and superfade.com.au

3 KIWI SEED GOLD EYE CREAM Contains real 23K gold flakes, which impart a warm glow as they bring calm to stressed skin. RRP $69; antipodesnature.com

2 S A M P A T H E G R E AT THE RETURN

4 A N T I C A P A S T E R I A R AV I O L I

5 JENNEN MR TAHNEE TAN 6CM Wish you were taller? Jennen Shoes will boost your height by 4-10cm. Join over 100,000 men, including Hollywood celebrities, CEOs and AFL players. RRP $219; jennenshoes.com.au

6 AMERICAN TOURISTER APPLITE 4 LUGGAGE The new Applite 4 features premium TSA locks, an upgraded ultra-organised interior and an exclusive lockable security cover to protect against scratches and prevent tampering. RRP from $219.00

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Namibia-born, Australia-based singer/rapper Sampa the Great finds a natural home on Britain’s Ninja Tune records and in the process releases her best work yet. The Return exudes a brilliant easy-going confidence as Sampa mixes hip-hop with languid soul and polyrhythmic African influences on songs like elegiac opener “Mwana” and the heady “OMG”. Ideal for… checking out a live hip-hop show

3 YOUNG THUG SO MUCH FUN

After his wider-ranging work of recent years, Atlanta’s Young Thug returns to what he does best – delivering atom-splitting raps over lean 808 beats, with barely a spare bar to catch his breath. It’s exhilarating stuff, particularly when he shares the track space with colleagues such as Future, 21 Savage and Lil Uzi Vert. Effortless, uncomplicated and very clever rap music. Ideal for… heating up your next Sunday session

ALBUMS MATT SHEA

These artisan handmade ravioli contain the best quality ingredients and are made the traditional Italian way. Perfect for when you need a quick dinner on the go! Available in four flavours: butternut pumpkin & sage; buffalo ricotta, porcini & truffle; buffalo ricotta & spinach; and buffalo, tomato & basil. 350g, RRP $9.95; call 1300 305 129 for nearest stockists

GIVE YOURSELF A SUITE ESCAPE

Stamford Plaza Melbourne is a unique five-star all-suite hotel in the “Paris end” of Little Collins Street. Situated in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD, Stamford Plaza is the perfect starting point allowing you to explore Melbourne’s secret laneways, indulge in superb dining experiences and marvel at the nearby iconic theatre performances.

EXCLUSIVE OFFER FOR TIGERTALES READERS Book by 30 November 2019 using promotional code “SUITE” and receive a $40 dining credit* to use at Harry’s restaurant for dinner during your stay. Feel at home as you relax in our spacious suites - all of which feature a separate lounge, large bedroom, fully-equipped kitchen and marble-finished bathroom with a spa bath. Refresh after your flight in our rooftop heated pool, jacuzzi, sauna and a state-of-the-art gymnasium.

Phone: 03 9659 1000 | E-mail: reservations@spm.stamford.com.au

www.stamford.com.au/spm

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*This exclusive offer is available for bookings made directly with the hotel for stays until 30 December 2019.

TOUR TALES

PHOTOGRAPHED AT THE LANSDOWNE HOTEL

What happens 54

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TOUR TALES

Nominees for the Australian Women in Music Awards tell us their best tour and travel stories. Plus, the best of Melbourne Music Week for 2019...

Ngaiire

orn Papua New Guinea-b r rite gw on r-s ge sin ul so

PLAYING THE WORLD’S BIGGEST MUSIC FESTIVAL

on tour… PHOTOS SAMARA CLIFFORD

“The first big show I played overseas was at Glastonbury in the UK. I’ll always remember it, not just because it was Glastonbury but because I booked that show all by myself. Back then I was a self-managed artist so I really had to hustle hard. I’d attended a music conference in Melbourne called the Australasian Worldwide Music Expo where bookers and talent buyers from all over the world and Australia would come together to look for artists to sign or tour. I managed to score a meeting with a guy who was booking one of the stages at Glasto (there are over 70 stages!) and told him that I was awesome, that he should see my showcase and then book me for Glastonbury. He believed it. He saw my showcase. Then he booked me for Glastonbury! I couldn’t afford to take the whole band so it was just my keys player, Jack Britten, and me. But just because we got to Glastonbury didn’t mean we’d made it. We were still at the bottom of the artist food chain, so we lugged keyboards and suitcase up and down never-ending flights of stairs at the tube stations, ate ê

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TOUR TALES

“ Absolutely no one was there at our stage when we were sound checking, and that was scary” on a budget, got run around by misinformation from festival volunteers, destroyed our shoes in piles of gross festival mud – it was kind of a nightmare really. The peak of it all came when we actually got on stage. Absolutely no one was there at our stage when we were sound checking, and that was scary. We came all the way across the world to play to no one? Within 10 minutes of getting back on stage though the tent was bursting with people. Rammed! We’d done no advertising whatsoever so that completely blew my mind as to why people wanted to come see me. I haven’t been back since, but it seems I have unfinished business to return to very soon.” Ngaiire plays the Northcote Social Club in Melbourne on November 13 and 14, and the Lansdowne Hotel in Sydney on November 21. Her new single is “Shiver”, out October 4.

CEL EBR ATING A US TR A LIA N WOMEN IN MUSIC The Australian Women in Music awards is an October showcase of the most amazing women in the music industry. The event, at the Brisbane Powerhouse, includes keynote speeches from Amy Sheppard, Yumi Stynes and Kween G as well as concert and forums with a special focus on cultural diversity. For more information on the awards, which take place on October 8 and 9, or to see a full list of winners, visit womeninmusicawards.com.au

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TOUR TALES

Christine Anu

most famous One of the country’s ices vo us no Indige

LOSING SUNNIES AND DISCOVERING AUSTRALIA’S BEST PIES “I’ve always loved Billinudgel. It has such a great name. It’s a one-street town in the Byron Shire. We would always pull in there when we were on the road. It’s the home of the Humble Pie and it’s the reason why I’m obsessed with having pie and coffee when I’m on the road. The secret is in the pastry and the thickness of the gravy. I would definitely recommend pulling in there if you are passing through. I’m also one for leaving my expensive sunglasses on the counter of stores - anywhere. When you’re in the car on tour, you’re sleeping with your sunnies on to block out the light. You wake up at a pit stop and go into the store for refreshments. As I look in my handbag for my purse, it’s instinctive for me to place my sunnies on the counter so they don’t fall off my head and onto the floor. And it’s always 30 kilometres down the road that I remember that I’ve left them behind. Most of the time, I’ve been fortunate to get most things back, like my laptop – but never my sunnies. The $5 ones, yes, but never the expensive sunnies. It’s funny when I forget my pass and leave it in my accommodation and you’re one of the people performing and the security won’t let you in. I know they are doing their job, but you’d think after seeing my face plastered around town on posters for weeks that they’d recognise me. In the end, the guard has always come good and I’ve gone on and delivered an amazing performance.” Christine Anu performs Aretha Frankin at The Vanguard in Sydney on November 9; twitter.com/anuchristine

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TOUR TALES

Melbourne Music Week turns 10

GET OUT AND GET LOUD AT MELBOURNE MUSIC WEEK

Melbourne Music Week (MMW) is back from November 14-23 with a huge showcase of Australian musical talent in some very unexpected places around the city. We talk to Melbourne Councillor Rohan Leppert about what to expect. How important is Melbourne’s live music scene to the city? “Music is part of the fabric of our Melbourne, whether we play it, listen to it, talk about it or celebrate it. From our street buskers to our live music venues, Melbourne’s music scene is incredibly rich and diverse. Last year we were recognised as the Live Music Capital of the World, with more live music venues than anywhere in the world. Our live music scene attracts more than 112,000 people every Saturday night, the equivalent of the AFL Grand Final every weekend.” What part does MMW play? “Melbourne Music Week is the City of Melbourne’s opportunity to celebrate our thriving, world-renowned music scene. Since 2010, MMW has hosted over 1,000 events, presented 2,500 acts, entertained more than 400,000 people and contributed more than $20 million to Melbourne’s economy. We’ve also transformed some of the city’s most iconic, historic and nontraditional spaces into music venues – from the uninhabited former Royal Women’s Hospital and State Library to St Paul’s Cathedral and the basement of ACMI.” What was a highlight from last year? “The MMW Hub in the ACMI basement was a particular highlight of the 2018 festival. The ACMI basement offered us a unique blank canvas to transform a much-loved cultural institution into an audio-visual playground that attracted thousands of people.” What are you looking forward to this year? “This year I’m looking forward to marking MMW’s 10th anniversary. Once again, we’ll be working closely with a range of independent promoters, venues, labels and businesses to create a massive program.”

Highlights of the 2019 program include: Kubik Kubik is back. A fully licensed, open-air music venue with international music acts every evening, this will be the MMW hub. Kubik will be housed within Alexandra Gardens on the banks of the Yarra. The venue is constructed from light-filled industrial water tanks, seeking to enhance the interaction between light, design, sustainability and electronic music. European electropunk Influential German electropunk band Deutsch Amerikanische Freundschaft will play at Melbourne Town Hall. The return of Robert Henke Robert Henke’s Lumiére will take place at Melbourne Recital Centre. Music on the Melbourne Star Melbourne Star Observation Wheel once again transforms into a rotating musical menagerie at MMW. On the night of Friday November 15, 10 of Melbourne Star’s cabins will play host to a different MMW artist, so guests will receive a flying musical lucky dip as they board their flight. Take the family An Under 5s adventure goes down at Melbourne Museum. Kids are invited to start their music education early and to dance their little hearts out with a music-loving dinosaur. Workshops will have young and old alike making beats and music to get toes tapping. The Big Fish Little Fish family rave also returns in 2019 after its staggering success bringing families together for a daytime dance party last year. To find out more visit mmw.melbourne.vic.gov.au

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TOUR TALES

“I felt hungover even though I hadn’t been drinking, and my eyes were red raw”

Amy Sheppard

creator of the Singer-songwriter and ass movement fat my iss #k body-positive

AMY SHEPPARD SAYS TOURING CAN TAKES ITS TOLL

THE EMOTIONAL TOURING ROLLER COASTER “We have been so fortunate to tour around the world on numerous occasions. Touring can be gruelling, exhilarating, nerve-wracking, rewarding, elating and sometimes soul-shattering. These emotions can pop up in the space of a few weeks, a few hours or, if you’re lucky, simultaneously. Needless to say, I have a few tour

tales up my sleeve, but here’s one I’ll share that delves into the roller coaster that is touring. In November 2018 we were touring the USA off the back of our song “Coming Home”. We were travelling in a tour bus and had shows every night in a different city. While we were on the road we found out that we had landed The Today Show in New York City the day before Thanksgiving. We were thrilled and immediately accepted the opportunity. After an extremely stressful night in Washington, we rolled into NYC, loaded into the venue and performed our set at about 10:30pm. By the time we met a few fans, packed up and loaded out, it was about 1:30am. I remember having an hour’s sleep before having to wake up and start hair and makeup for the today show. I felt hungover even though I hadn’t been drinking, and my eyes were red raw. The Today Show was a complete success, but we then had to get ourselves to the next city for the show that night. Did I mention it was Thanksgiving eve? Traffic was gridlocked and it took us all day to travel to the next city. We nearly missed our own gig and were very close to cancelling the show entirely. We were severely late. After the show, we were meeting fans and apologising profusely for our tardiness. One lady approached us and told us that she was so grateful we didn’t cancel because “Geronimo” was her and her late husband’s “song”. She had travelled across the country to come to the show. As I said, touring is a roller coaster of emotions and there’s never a dull moment, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.” ê

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PICA

Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts

Unfolding Acts New art from Taipei and Perth 19 October – 22 December Yu-Cheng Chou (周育正) Pilar Mata Dupont Sharyn Egan Dondon Hounwn (東冬侯溫) Chia-En Jao (饒加恩) Yi-Chun Lo (羅懿君) pvi collective York Noongar community members with Community Arts Network

Free Exhibitions Family Activities Guided Tours Performances Events Bookshop Bar & Café

Perth Cultural Centre 51 James St Northbridge (08) 9228 6300

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pica.org.au @pica_perth

Image: Yu-Cheng Chou (周育正), A Working History: LU Chieh-Te (installation view), 2012. Image courtesy the artist.

TOUR TALES

Kween G

MC and hip-hop artist

THREE TOUR VIGNETTES K WEEN G STAYED IN SOME STRANGE PLACES ON TOUR

“I recall the pure excitement of performing at Freedom Feast in Coffs Harbour. We had 800 people coming together, sharing a plate, sharing stories, sharing culture and celebrating freedom. There were tables for days. I don’t think I’ve seen that many tables in one space, but as the people arrived the tables filled. Freedom Feast featured the Homelands Tour as the headline and felt the joy of the community.” “If I could go to one place over and over again, it would be in Warumungu Country (Tennant Creek). I was in the right place at the right time to see

the Chooky Dancers perform at Desert Harmony Festival, and they were brilliant.” “It’s one of those great mysteries of touring that you never really know where you are going to spend the night. For the Killer Queens Tour, there was a show we did in Wagga Wagga. We drove from Sydney for a good seven or eight hours. We reached our hotel and it was not in the area of the other hotels. We got there and there were no lights on – it was looking abandoned, no cars parked, just us. It was the sight of a horror movie. It was like The Shining was going to happen….” ê

“We had 800 people coming together, sharing a plate, sharing stories, sharing culture and celebrating freedom” ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

TOUR TALES

“. .hopefully Elvis Parsley will put on a full show for you while you buy some fruit!”

Katie Noonan

ARIA regular, jazz voca K ATIE NOONAN ONCE PL AYED A SHOW IN A WOODFORD PRISON

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list, ex-indie rocker

Recently, I was lucky enough to tour quite a lot of regional Victoria with my jazz/folk trio Elixir, and we got to see lots of regional spots in Victoria up close and personal. We were lucky enough to find The Grove in Krowera, Gippsland – an absolute jewel of a restaurant in the middle of a 60-acre farm. This was honestly one of the most amazing meals I’ve ever had! They cater their menu according to the seasonal availability of local produce and were super accommodating of my hubby’s gluten-free and dairy-free requirements. Like music, food is the greater connector of people, and we felt very special to hear about their aspirations for their awesome pocket of the world. Throughout my touring I’ve also visited the lovely Sunshine Coast and the Woodfordia site; in fact, I’ve been to every Woodford Folk Festival, bar one, for 24 years. It’s like my second home. But no visit to Woodford is complete without a visit to Grapelands. I remember quietly grabbing some fruit for our campsite some years back and, lo and behold, suddenly the PA kicked in and Elvis Parsley was there, resplendent in a ’70s white onesie with his microphone singing “Love Me Tender” to some particularly tender pears. It was hilarious! My other major memory of Woodford is playing the maximum security jail about 15 years ago with my band George. That was a truly surreal experience. It was an all-male prison and I was one of three women in the entire place. These very tough-looking men were coming up and gently speaking to me saying things like “Thank you, that music made me forget where I was and let me escape for a while”. A truly amazing experience.

TOP TOUR SPOTS “One of the best things about being a touring musician is getting to see so much of this big, beautiful country of ours and getting to meet a hugely diverse number of people from all walks of life. When I think of touring, I think of lots of flying, lots and lots of driving and lots of awesome little cafes/restaurants in small towns and their fascinating characters.

Katie’s new album The Glad Tomorrow, with the Australian String Quartet, is out now

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

E S T. 1 9 9 9

www.shopmadeinearth.com

M EL BO U RNE • LOS A NGELES • SAN DIEGO @madeinearthofﬁcial

Photo Credit: @kayleigh.christina @ashleyspedale ti g e ra ir.co m . a u

WEEKEND WARRIORS

• Voted South Australia’s Best Attraction in 2018. • One of the most spectacular one day adventures in the world. • Tours operate all year round departing from Port Lincoln Marina. • Advanced Eco Certified and only one day operator licensed to berley. • Proudly a Climate Action Leader. • No diver experience required, all food and equipment supplied. • Largest and stabilized vessel. Great for viewing opportunities and comfort. • Check current and historical shark sightings online. • Twilight Charters available during December and January. • Combo Tour available where you can cage dive with Great White Sharks and swim with the Sealions all in the same day.

• • • •

Port Lincoln South Australia

Ph (08) 8682 3939 sharkcagediving.com.au

Half days tours operating from October through to May. All equipment, either lunch or breakfast and snacks provided. Largest vessel to the Islands. Multiple tour discounts apply if you book a shark dive.

DESTINATION ADELAIDE

DE S T IN AT ION A DE L A IDE M A R IE

is a freelance writer (@marie_barbieri) who is passionate about health, fitness, nature and wildlife

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION, TWO DIFFERENT ADVENTURE VS CHILLED

ADVENTURES

WA LT E R

is a lecturer who appreciates Adelaideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art scene and historic attractions

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

WIL DLIFE ENCOUNTER S BRE A K FA S T IN THE HIL L S I start my weekend driving to the leafy Adelaide Hills. At Stirling’s Organic Market and Cafe (organicmarket.com.au), I crunch on the wholefood goodness of toasted muesli topped with yoghurt, and prune, apricot and pineapple compote. I then buy pasta, olive oil and bananas at the adjoining certified organic market store.

BL OOMING M A R V EL L OUS At neighbouring Mylor, I join a fragrant tour through the biodynamic farm of Adelaide skincare brand: Jurlique (jurliquefarm.com). Learning about Jurlique’s “seed to skin” journey, I view liquorice root and camomile seedlings, a black elderberry tree and horseradish: said to boost collagen (I refrain from burying my face into it). And the display garden features the recently launched self-bred Jurlique Rose, sporting pink petals.

A 15-minute drive to Crafers and I’m at Cleland Wildlife Park (clelandwildlifepark.sa.gov.au), where wombats hide and koalas melt hearts. Tours include breakfast with the birds and guided night walks, but I choose to roam freely with the kangaroos.

M A R IE

visits a skincare farm, hangs out with the roos and tries her hand at golf

f r id ay

8.30

10.00

12:00

IN THE E Y E OF THE BEHOL DER

B A N A N A S IN JA RMER ’S At the new urban-regenerated suburb of Bowden, I indulge in a nutrient-packed smoothie bowl at Jarmer’s Kitchen (jarmerskitchen.com.au). After working my way through the artfully presented layers of fruits, nuts and seeds, I head outside to view Lisa King’s large mural of a woman, part of the Walls of Wonderment project. It looks onto a couple of art-adorned cows. Moo!

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A R TFUL CRE ATIONS At the JamFactory gallery and shop on Morphett Street (jamfactory.com.au), I find impressive displays and curated exhibitions of art crafted by established and emerging creatives. At the glass studio’s viewing platform, I watch glassblowers in action. It’s spellbinding watching glass fashioned into artworks.

It’s one of Adelaide’s most respected cultural institutions. Gracing North Terrace with its colonnaded Elder Wing is The Art Gallery of South Australia (agsa.sa.gov.au). The gallery contains over 45,000 works, to include sculptures, paintings, photographs and jewellery, and an impressive collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artworks.

DESTINATION ADELAIDE

GOURME T PUB CR AWLING TA KING A S WING AT A DEL AIDE L E T THEM E AT... CHICK PE A S Next, a drive down to Burnside Village (burnsidevillage.com.au) at Glenside means a supernutritious, preservative-free lunch at Let Them Eat (let-them-eat.com.au). The curried chickpea burger and roasted capsicum salad packs a punch, before I shop for activewear (because it’s all about health – right?).

Down in the city at the public North Adelaide Golf Course (northadelaidegolf.com.au), I get to swing a club for the first time in my life. On the eucalypt-lined fairways, I learn the difference between a putter, a wedge and a driver, and surprise myself with how much I enjoy teeing off.

14:00

Tonight, I go on a date with two boys: Nathan and Branden, AKA the Adelaide Bar Boys (adelaidebarboys.com.au). On this magical mystery tour we feast on gourmet tapas-style platters waiting for us at each venue, while hearing about Radelaide’s gossipy tales.

15:00

18:00

WA LT E R

BRE WER Y B A NTER

G A L L ER Y G A S TRONOM Y Within the art gallery is the delightful Art Gallery Food + Wine restaurant (agsa.sa.gov.au/visit/restaurant). The menu celebrates the best of South Australia’s finest produce. Sitting on the sunny verandah, I go for the rye and sourdough club sandwich filled with Barossa double-smoked ham, Beerenberg caramelised onions, herbed cream cheese and spinach.

SHIP RESCUE This afternoon, I head to Port Adelaide to view its maritime heritage. The City of Adelaide clipper (cityofadelaide.org.au) made many return voyages between London and Adelaide, transporting immigrants here and wool there. After decaying on faraway shores, she now rests at Dock 1.

On nearby Baker Street, I join the pirates of Port Adelaide. Housed in the old Dalgety wool warehouse is Pirate Life Brewing (piratelife.com.au). It’s the seaport’s newest brewery, with artworks gracing its walls. As I enjoy my IPA and charcuterie board, I catch local artist, Zack O'Donohue, signing his just-completed painting. We meet. We chat. We chink.

watches glassblowers, finds beer brewers and visits a historic ship

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WEEKEND WARRIORS FL OATING L UNCHES DOL PHIN SPOT TING PL UMP A S A PA NC A K E

M A R IE

goes in search of dolphins, coastal boardwalks and moonlit movies

Today begins at Adelaide’s old maritime docks, Port Adelaide. Overlooking the Port River, Pancakes at the Port (pancakesattheport.com.au) serves up sweet and savoury buttermilk pancakes with French touches. I’m not vegan, but I try the vegan quinoa, buckwheat and sorghum pancakes, which come with grilled tomatoes.

S AT UR D AY

It’s just a few steps to the Dolphin Explorer (dolphinexplorer.com.au), which I board for a cruise along Port River and the Adelaide Dolphin Sanctuary. Within minutes of leaving our mooring, the snout of a bottlenose beauty breaches the waterline. It’s one of a resident population of around 30 dolphins. It’s impressive that dolphins frolic so close to a capital city.

09:30

On the other side of the Port River, I hire the gorgeous Portobello River Cruiser (portobellofoodkitchenbar.com.au), complete with sun umbrella, Bluetooth speaker and anchor. In my doughnut-shaped boat, powered with a whisper-quiet electric engine, I cruise at low speed dining on stuffed mushrooms and arancini balls.

11:00

13:00

A R TIS TIC L UNCH SPOT S

BRE A K FA S T AT M A RILY N’S I breakfast with Marilyn Monroe at A Cafe Etc (71 Jetty Road) in the beachside suburb of Brighton. Okay, so Marilyn may be in the form of art memorabilia tessellating the walls above my eggs Benedict, but it’s all very charming. Dozens of the icon’s photos, posters and paintings hang all around a large mural, itself covered in graffitied tributes to the star.

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BE ACH SCUL P TURES A walk along Brighton’s picturesque beachfront reveals art installations from the cool to the quirky, thanks to the annual Patritti Brighton Jetty Sculpture exhibition (brightonjettyclassicsculptures.com), held every January. Established and budding artists showcase their creations here, with some remaining permanent exhibits along the foreshore.

I head to the hills for lunch at Atelier in Crafers (theateliercrafers.com.au). The cosy space, with log fire for winter and garden for summer, offers a sensational selection of artworks for sale. Beneath the jarrah beam ceiling are shelves selling burls handcrafted into bowls and native bee hotels, pens hewn from eucalypts and a good selection of men’s toiletries. And they brew a fine pot of tea, too.

DESTINATION ADELAIDE

M A R V EL L OUS MOUNT S

COA S T CR AWLING Driving south of the city proves more than worth it. From Marino Rocks, I join the spectacular Marion Coastal Walking Trail towards Hallett Cove Conservation Park. Clifftop paths and the loftiest boardwalks challenge my thighs along Adelaide’s delicious coastline.

14:30

After an hour’s walk through Hallett Cove Conservation Park, I reach a striking landscape, once part of an ancient 270 million-year-old glacial lake. Following the Glacial Hike, I climb timber steps to the spectacular Sugarloaf formation. Its layers of sedimentary rock and sand are geological artwork.

S ATURDAY NIGHT AT THE MOVIES It’s a summer favourite for Adelaideans, so returning to the city, I head to Moonlight Cinema (moonlight.com.au) at Botanic Park. A Gold Grass ticket lands me a Bean Bed on the lawn near the screen. It’s a BYO food and drink venue, but I order guacamole and sour cream nachos from the food truck before it’s lights down and credits up.

16:30

19:00

WA LT E R

visits a famous artist’s home, village galleries and South American beats

H A HNDORF MOMENT S

GOOD DAY, SIR I visit 19th-century Hahndorf, home of Sir Hans Heysen, one of Australia’s most celebrated landscape artists. A tour of The Cedars (hansheysen.com.au) includes a visit to the artist’s studio still bearing his painting utensils and notes. In the gardens, the Artist’s Walk features Heysen's favourite painting spots.

Also in the village is Hahndorf Academy (hahndorfacademy.org.au). It’s housed in a heritage building, which previously functioned as a school, a seminary and a hospital for Hahndorf’s European settlers. On sale are multimedia arts and crafts created by local and regional artists. In the museum section hang some of Heysen’s rare sketches.

SH A K E YOUR TH A NG… It’s not just the cocktails that get shaken on Leigh Street, back in the city. Every Saturday night, food, drinks, music and performance art turn Casablabla (casablabla.com) into a pulsating fusion of colours and flavours. The tapas restaurant/bar/ cultural institution, draped with exotic artworks, hosts samba musicians who walk through the venue beating their drums and bongos.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS S A L A D BOWL HE AV EN FREE RIDER

URB A N RENE WA L FE A S T S This morning I fuel up on paleo granola at Nutrition Republic (nutritionrepublic.com.au): an all gluten-free, dairy-free and refined sugar-free cafe with culinary kudos. The family-run diner, housed in Bowden’s old Clipsal building, offers coconut water elixirs, protein smoothies and organic coffee, with unprocessed plant-centric food.

I grab a set of wheels (free, thanks to Adelaide City Council) at Hindmarsh Library (bikesa.asn.au/adelaidefreebikes) and cycle towards the Adelaide Park Lands. I climb Montefiore Hill, and Colonel William Light’s statue. It’s here that the surveyor planned the streets of Adelaide back in 1837.

After returning my bike, I take the tram to City South and walk 10 minutes west to Wright Street, where Le Cordon Bleu alumna Emily Raven runs award-winning eatery My Kingdom for a Horse (mykingdomforahorse.com.au). The menu is as colourful as the cafe’s name. I order the grilled haloumi, pickled mushroom, roasted cauliflower and spinach salad bowl. The diner also has an on-site coffee roaster and sources its beans direct from farmers.

M A R IE

wheels to landmark lookouts, climbs treetops and gets herself spooked

S UND AY

09:00

10:30

12:30

MUR A L S OF THE OMEG A KIND

TUNNEL VISION

COFFEE WITH THE CRE ATIV ES At Brick + Mortar Creative (brickandmortarcreative. com.au) in upmarket Norwood, it’s all about local. The hybrid design store displays everything from handmade soaps to keep-cups and candles. The free co-working area features private spaces, where I breakfast watching a textile artist sewing a dress.

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I head to Adina Adelaide Treasury Hotel. Joining an eye-opening Old Treasury and Tunnels tour with the National Trust (nationaltrust.org.au/event/ old-treasury-and-tunnels), we descend to a snaking tunnel harking back to colonial times. It leads to the furnace room, where gold ingots were shaped and stored during the gold rush.

Lunch at Udaberri on Leigh Street (udaberri.com.au) is where the cool kids hang out. Love Vans the Omega’s murals? Me too! I relish lunching on a cheeseboard beneath the renowned Adelaide artist’s ensnaring mural in the courtyard of this boutique bar. I lose the staring contest!

DESTINATION ADELAIDE B A L CON Y A 20-minute walk takes me to Kurangga Park, where the trees scream. Stepping into a safety harness and clicking into a helmet, I join TreeClimb (treeclimb.com.au): Adelaide’s aerial adventure park. The obstacle course includes the Tarzan swing, the flying carpet and an exhilarating zip line through the Park Lands’ canopy.

B A L CON Y SUPPER S Dinner is just a 10-minute walk away at The Unley (theunley.com.au) in Parkside. The open-plan space is grand, yet the food is affordable. I love the upstairs section, with a balcony overlooking the bar and a map of Unley coating the ceiling. But it’s the warm pumpkin, chicken and haloumi salad all dressed up with pistachio, pomegranate, quinoa and hemp seed hummus that pleases me the most.

14:00

17:00

WHERE SPIRIT S ROA M On King William Road I jump on the tram to Thebarton. A 10-minute walk leads to an eerie ghost tour of Adelaide Gaol (adelaidegaol.org.au), which was decommissioned in 1988. A torch-lit wander down Apparition Alleyway instils chills, as previous visitors claim to have seen the ghost of 25-year-old Elizabeth Woolcock here (her body was apparently buried between the walls). Reaching the trapdoor in the gallows, my toes clench.

20:00

WA LT E R

HIS TORIC SL EEPS

YOUR OWN INTERPRE TATION Wandering down Wyatt Street, I come across one of Adelaide’s most recent murals. Seb Humphreys (also known as Order 55) has created this towering abstract piece. It demands attention, while leaving the mind free to interpret.

AT THE FLICK S Where do I go to watch an art house, independent or foreign-language movie? Why, Palace Nova East End Cinemas (palacenova.com.au), of course. Located on Rundle Street, it’s more a boutique cinema, with cosy auditoriums offering comfy seating without the crowds. And if you’re a student, you get tickets for $8.50 any day of the week.

To top off my weekend, I get to snooze in a heritage-listed building, now the Adina Apartment Hotel Adelaide Treasury (hoteladinahotels.com). My apartment is on the same floor as the SA Government’s Old Cabinet Room used between 1876 and 1968.

finds secret tunnels and street art, and then beds down in a historic stay

FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors, get in touch.

tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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BRISBANE FOOD

Northern expo A new wave of celebrated chefs are moving to Brisbane, putting the city’s dining scene on the map. Matt Shea looks at what’s going on, and what you need to check out when you’re next in town. PHOT0 MORGAN ROBERTS

risbane used to lose its chefs. A young cook would complete his or her apprenticeship in the river city, ply their trade for a year or two, and then they would depart – usually for Sydney or Melbourne, or perhaps overseas, never to be seen again. But something changed in the past half-decade. The enormous pace of Brisbane’s inner city development has created beautiful new dining precincts full of cutting-edge restaurants. The eye-popping Howard Smith Wharves, on the Brisbane River underneath the Story Bridge, has seeded four standalone eateries – Arc Dining and Greca, and the soon-to-open Stanley and Yoko Dining. On the opposite side of town, Fish Lane and its surrounds are scattered with brilliant diners such as Maeve Wine, Gauge and Hello Please.

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The city’s new experiential hotels have been busy too: The Calile brought with it The Lobby Bar and Hellenika; the FV Peppers hotel and residential development boasts Foresters Restaurant and Bar and Baja; and Ovolo The Valley just opened its beautiful Middle Eastern diner Za Za Ta. All these precincts, hotels, projects and restaurants have attracted cashed-up operators ready to hire the country’s top chefs, this new wave of talent washing across the entire Brisbane dining scene. Suddenly, the focus isn’t on who’s leaving Brisbane but who’s arriving. Celebrated Sydney chef and restaurateur Jonathan Barthelmess has opened Greca (and will soon follow it with Yoko Dining); former Saint Peter head chef Alanna Sapwell is behind Arc Dining’s cutting-edge food (with Queen Chow alumnus ê

BRISBANE FOOD

sure

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BRISBANE FOOD

“Wolfers had a head-turning career in Sydney climbing the ranks in restaurants such as Est., Marque, Bentley, Monopole and Yellow”

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BRISBANE FOOD

Patrick Friesen overseeing the entire Howard Smith Wharves precinct), and Sydney-trained Los Angeles star Louis Tikaram is back on home turf preparing to open Cantonese diner Stanley. At FV Peppers, Californian young gun Julio Aguilera is behind Baja’s exquisite Mexican eats.

BRISBANE IS BECOMING THE NEW FOODIE HOT SPOT

“Adam had watched from Sydney as many of his contemporaries moved north”

Southern star One of the most recent of these arrivals is Adam Wolfers. Wolfers had a head-turning career in Sydney climbing the ranks in restaurants such as Est., Marque, Bentley, Monopole and Yellow, before he established his own acclaimed Ételek pop-up with business partner Marc Dempsey in 2017. Wolfers was coming off the back of the final season of Ételek when he was approached by a recruitment agent looking to place a head chef in Brisbane. “He said this restaurant was keen to hire a head chef and would I be interested,” he says. Initially, Wolfers didn’t think much of the offer, but he had watched as many of his contemporaries moved north. “Patrick Friesen is a mate of mine and I saw him come up,” Wolfers says. “I’m good friends with Alanna [Sapwell] as well … there was a lot happening.” ê

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BRISBANE FOOD

Brissie food stars GER ARD’S BISTRO If there’s a restaurant for which southerners have always travelled to Brisbane, it’s Gerard’s Bistro. Since opening in 2013 this sceney James Street eatery has been celebrated for putting a modern spin on food from the Middle East. Now Sydney young gun Adam Wolfers is piloting the menu into less explored parts of the region. The result is highly evolved but uncomplicated share plates with a focus on local seafood and organically grown vegetables. It marks an exciting new chapter for one of the city’s best diners. 14/15 James Street, Fortitude Valley; gerardsbistro.com.au

ARC DINING Queenslander Alanna Sapwell returned home from a head chef position at celebrated Sydney seafood restaurant Saint Peter to lead the kitchen at Arc Dining. The jewel in the crown of the expansive Howard Smith Wharves precinct, Arc sees Sapwell pushing plenty of local produce, carefully slicing Rocky Point cobia and layering it with daikon and finger lime, or tossing Mooloolaba spanner crab with a delicate house-made pappardelle and a garden gremolata. Combine the food with the setting – a glasshouse-style dining room with views straight across the river – and you have the hottest restaurant in Brisbane right now. 5 Boundary Street, Brisbane; arcdining.com.au

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GRECA

BAJA

JOY RESTAUR ANT

Celebrated Sydney chef Jonathan Barthelmess hit like a smart bomb at Howard Smith Wharves when he opened Greca just before Christmas in 2018. The 210-seater spent the subsequent summer packed with locals eager to experience Barthelmess’s skill with unfussy, flavour-driven Greek eats. There’s plenty of wood and charcoal-fired meats, but it’s pitch-perfect comfort food such as the saganaki (pan-fried cheese with honey and oregano) and katoumari (a dessert of smashed filo, walnuts and semolina cream) that keep diners coming back. Barthelmess is now preparing to open a new restaurant, Yoko Dining, right next door to Greca – watch this space. 5 Boundary Street, Brisbane; greca.com.au

Brisbane has landed a bunch of crowd-pleasing Tex-Mex restaurants in recent years, but restaurateur Daniel Quinn opened Baja in August with a mission to take diners on a journey south of the US-Mexico border. Writing the menu is consultant Julio Aguilera, a Californian young gun celebrated for his skill with Mexican cuisine (Aguilera most recently opened his own highly regarded restaurant, El Destilado, in Oaxaca, and his mother was born on the Baja California peninsula). Enter this moodily lit subterranean diner for boneless chicken wings finished with a buttermilk and coriander dressing, buffalo burrata with smoked cashew salsa, and spicy marinated pork shoulder tacos. The food is best washed down with a drop or two from a carefully curated list of small batch tequilas and mezcals. 211 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley; bajamodernmexican.com

Ten seats. Two sittings. Five nights a week. That’s the equation at Joy, Tim and Sarah Scott’s tiny omakase-style restaurant hidden in a Fortitude Valley laneway. It means you need to book well in advance to get in, but the graft is worth it: the Scotts bring all their experience cooking in Sydney restaurants such as Sepia and Sixpenny to bear on a menu that mixes up Japanese and Scandinavian techniques – preservation, salting and pickling – and applies them to a forever-changing menu of Australian produce. 7/690 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley; joyrestaurant.com.au

ZA ZA TA The flash new Middle Eastern contender in town, Za Za Ta’s fit-out is almost in danger of outshining the food. A Queensland-inspired 180-seat restaurant and bar with tropical wallpaper, VJ-board walls, trellised ceilings and velvet furniture, it’s a venue you experience rather than simply visit. Thankfully, high-profile Sydney import Roy Ner and Brisbane head chef Dario Manca’s menu also overflows with imagination: try Yemeni butter bread with goat’s curd and zhug chilli, or seven-day dry-aged spiced duck breast finished with black garlic and “mom’s cream”. The heady comfort food is washed down by a selection of Middle Eastern wine and one of the city’s more imaginative cocktail lists. 1000 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley; zazata.com.au

OTTO RISTORANTE In 2016, the Sydney-based Fink Group transposed its enormously popular Otto to Brisbane, building an exquisite Level 4 dining room with eye-popping views of the Story Bridge. Will Cowper’s menu features local Borrowdale pork neck and Ranger Valley “Black Onyx” sirloin but – make no mistake – it’s the pasta you’re here for: there’s Moreton Bay blue swimmer crab and mascarpone ravioli, local squid and semi-dried tomatoes with farfalle, and a superstar champagne lobster spaghettini dish served with white wine, lemon butter and bottarga. It’s expensive, but absolutely worth it. 4/480 Queen Street, Brisbane; ottoristorante.com.au

STANLEY Stanley will be unveiled soon after this magazine hits seat pockets. Sydney-trained Louis Tikaram is returning from leading the kitchen at West Hollywood trendsetter EP & LP to cook jazzed up Cantonese food in a heritage-listed former water police headquarters building. Expect plenty of barbecue and roasted meats, dim sum, and locally sourced seafood. It’s set to be one of the biggest openings of 2019. 5 Boundary Street, Brisbane; stanleyrestaurant.com.au

BRISBANE FOOD

ALANNA SAPWELL RETURNED TO ARC FROM SYDNEY

“In Brisbane, there are not as many restaurants as Sydney, say, but people are more likely to try new things. Even when they don’t eat out that much”

The Brisbane restaurant in question turned out to be Gerard’s Bistro. Suddenly, the agent had Wolfers’ attention; Gerard’s is often regarded as one of the country’s best progressive Middle Eastern restaurants. “I thought, ‘Actually, this could be really good,’” Wolfers says. “Just the whole concept, the style of food, it felt right.” The beauty of Ételek, Wolfers says, was that it allowed him to explore relatively obscure foods and techniques – to cook “what I wanted to cook.” Gerard’s owner Johnny Moubarak wanted him to take a similar approach with his new position. “It was a big thing,” he says. “To be able to cook that way and still fit within the restaurant.” Wolfers’ produce-driven early menus have had a big focus on vegetables and seafood. There’s spiced Falls Farm carrots with labne and zhoug (a Yemeni hot sauce), Rocky Point cobia served with barberry and onion, and charcoal-grilled Moreton Bay bug with a millet tabouli and harissa bisque. These dishes are bold and vividly favoured, but Wolfers’s unfussy techniques make for uncomplicated, approachable dining. ê

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BRISBANE FOOD

“Taking over the kitchen at Gerard’s Bistro was no easy feat – the restaurant’s outgoing chef had given it a national reputation”

Taking over the kitchen at Gerard’s Bistro was no easy feat – the restaurant’s popular outgoing chef Ben Williamson had given it a national reputation. But locals soon responded to Wolfers’ capacity to do so much with so little on the plate. “In Brisbane, there aren’t as many restaurants as Sydney, say, but people are more likely to try new things,” Wolfers says. “Even when they don’t eat out that much.”

Innovation city MODERN ITALIAN AT OTTO

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Will Cowper agrees. Cowper is head chef at Otto Ristorante Brisbane. When in 2016 Sydney’s Fink Group transposed its iconic Italian restaurant to the Queensland capital, Cowper became one of the first of this new wave of chefs to cross the border. He says the differences between Sydney and Brisbane are subtle, and he took a couple of years to wrap his head around what turned on northern diners. ê

BRISBANE FOOD

“There’s such a buzz about Brisbane at the moment; a lot of my Sydney friends are talking about the city, so it’s getting a lot of traction”

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BRISBANE FOOD

“People want to see something new on the menu. That’s why we focus on local produce” Brisbane loves a new thing, Cowper says. The city thrives on innovation. “One hundred per cent,” he says. “People want to see something new on the menu. That’s why we focus on local produce – it helps create that experience. Spanish mackerel, local champagne lobster – it’s something different that they can say they’ve gone to a top restaurant and tried.” But is Brisbane just a fling? Is this rush of new restaurants temporary, and will all the talent eventually pack their knives and head back south again? Both Wolfers and Cowper say they are here for the long haul – “It would have to be a really big opportunity for me to up and leave,” Cowper says – and they reckon their contemporaries are too.

BRISBANE IS NOW GAINING CHEFS, NOT LOSING THEM

“There’s such a buzz about Brisbane at the moment,” Wolfers says. “A lot of my Sydney friends are talking about the city, so it’s getting a lot of traction around the place. It’s now a serious food destination.” “No [diners] wanted to come to Brisbane,” Cowper adds. “It was usually a stop-off on your way somewhere. But now people are coming to eat here. That’s a huge change.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane from six destinations; tigerair.com.au

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欢迎到凯恩斯国际夜市和美食广场

Cairns Night Markets

On The Esplanade in Cairns Open every Night from 4:30 till 11pm

位于凯恩斯市中心海滨大道(ESPLANADE)，每晚营业下午4:30起至11点，全年无休 * Food Court open from 10am * Best priced food in town * Night Markets open from 4:30pm to 11pm * Car parking upstairs above Night Markets $1.20 per hr * Approximately 2.5 million people visit the Cairns Night Markets each year * Come and see an amazing mix of 70 retail market stalls offering everything from a massage to a haircut or delicious Chinese self-serve

FISH FOOT SPA

美食广场每日上午10点起营业至夜间，价格合理公道

The Famous Cairns Night Markets & Food Court. Open 7 days a week

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TIWI ISLANDS

Stories of the Tiwi Islands

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TIWI ISLANDS

The tropical islands Melville and Bathurst, together with a selection of nine smaller islands, make up the Tiwi Islands some 80 kilometres north of Darwin. Jennifer Johnston travels to Bathurst Island, the second largest of the Tiwi Islands, and meets direct descendants of a civilisation that has inhabited the island for 7,000 years. PHOTOS TOURISM NT, JENNIFER JOHNSTON

ur hosts, Trevor Tipungwuti, Romolo Kantilla and Thaddeus Puautjimi, are hunched over a small circle of stones covered with straggly tree cuttings. Trevor reaches under the green leaves, flicking a cigarette lighter. He’s attempting to set the leaves alight. “Traditions change,” he says holding up the lighter. “There have been some improvements from the older days,” he adds, laughing. A plume of thick grey smoke rises. l watch as our hosts cup their hands under the billowing smoky spiral, scooping up handfuls of grey clouds, fanning it onto themselves. For Aboriginals the welcoming ceremony lets their ancestral spirits know visitors are coming on to country and to ensure no harm comes to them. “We use the smoking ceremony for when you feel bad, or sad, and you need to get rid of whatever bad feelings you brought with you,” Romy says. “The smoke cleanses the body and helps ward off evil spirits.” ê

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TIWI ISLANDS

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TIWI ISLANDS

CREATION STORIES PASS THROUGH GENER ATIONS

Our group of eight are invited to do the same. One by one we reach out, scooping the plumes of pungent smoke and sweeping it inwards as our Tiwi hosts tap their clapping sticks. We revel in the welcoming ceremony – a beautiful moment sharing their connection to land. The two larger Tiwi islands – Bathurst and Melville – originally called Ratuwati Yinjara (two islands) have been inhabited for at least 7,000 years. I’m on Bathurst on an organised day trip tour with Tiwi Tours (part of AAT Kings.)

Where it all began Aboriginal people tell Creation Stories, which are passed down through generations in story, song, dance, sculpture and painting. According to Tiwi Creation Stories, their islands were formed during Palaneri – the Dreaming Time. Before this time, the earth was flat and there was only darkness. The story of Mudungkala describes an older blind woman who rose from the ground on Melville carrying three babies in her arms. As she travelled from south-east Melville to the north, the tracks she made as she crawled became the Clarence and Dundas Straits, separating the two islands from the mainland. When Mudungkala decided the island was too large as one land mass, she created the Aspley Strait dividing the two islands. She bestowed vegetation and animals to the islands so that her three children would have food, and then she vanished. The Balanda (non-Aboriginal people) story, suggests about 20,000 years ago, during the last Ice Age, the land mass that is now the Tiwi Islands

According to Tiwi Creation Stories, their islands were formed during Palaneri – the Dreaming Time SMOKING CEREMONY PREPAR ATIONS ON BATHURST ISL AND

were connected to the mainland. Towards the end of that Ice Age – between 8,000-12,000 years ago – the sea levels rose, separating the island from the mainland and then from each other, creating the Tiwi Islands.

Tiwi history Due to their remote location, the Tiwi had minimal contact with the outside world. They developed a culture and language distinctly different from the First Peoples on the mainland. The Dutch, in 1636, were the first Europeans to discover the Tiwi Islands. Historian Peter Forrest wrote a paper for the Tiwi Land Council [The Tiwi meet the Dutch: The First European Contacts] Referring to a Dutch expedition in 1705, Forrest writes that the Dutch found the people on ê

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TIWI ISLANDS

Bathurst and Melville islands, a rich and highly developed civilisation, so unlike that of the Europeans that the two people were too dissimilar to have anything to offer one another. With nothing to trade, the Dutch moved on. The British established a military and trading post on Melville in 1824, which closed five years later, due to a lack of “inter-cultural understanding.“ Tiwi land has always been privately owned by Tiwi people. Visitors are allowed on the islands, but only on Tiwi terms. “We have always said who can come to our country and who must go,” states Matthew Wonaeamirri, Chairman of the Tiwi Land Council. Visitors must apply to the Tiwi Land Council for a permit. This is to preserve the privacy of Tiwi residents, safeguard the natural environment and protect sacred sites. If you’re visiting Tiwi as part of an organised tour (as I did through Tiwi Tours), your permit is automatically covered. The only time permits are not required is for the big annual event held in March – the Tiwi Islands Football Grand Final and Art Sale.

Bathurst Island Passing the island’s southern coastline from the open deck of our SeaLink ferry, I see nothing beyond the thicket of trees

ROMOLO EXPL AINS THE SKIN GROUPS

Tiwi land has always been privately owned by Tiwi people; visitors are allowed on the islands, but only on Tiwi terms

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hugging the white, sandy shore. Once inside Shoal Bay, the multi-coloured corrugated roofs of houses peek through the trees indicating the first sign of civilisation – Wurrumiyanga, Bathurst’s main settlement. On the beach, two Tiwi Tours folk gather the exiting passengers belonging to their tour, then lead us towards a minibus. As we navigate the dusty, unsealed streets, our guide, Trevor, introduces himself as Trevor number two. “This is Trevor number one,” he says, pointing to the driver, Trevor Dickinson. “Just shout Trevor and one of us will answer,” Trevor two adds, laughing. The bus turns into a narrow road bordered by a couple of shanty houses. Following our welcoming smoking ceremony, we are offered morning tea. With a cup of freshly boiled billy tea and a chunk of warm home-made damper, we sit in a circle and Romy (Romolo) talks. “There are around 1,600 people on Bathurst Island and counting,” Romy explains. “Tiwi basically means ‘one people’ and Tiwi is our first language, which is taught at school. Our language has ê

TIWI ISLANDS

evolved over the years and it’s only the elders who speak traditional style Tiwi, which has no English. Middle-aged Tiwis like me understand some older Tiwi words, but many cannot speak it. The younger generation uses ‘new-Tiwi’, using many English loan words.” Romy turns to three women who since the welcoming ceremony have been busily working on craft. He speaks Tiwi to them. By way of introduction he says, “Young girls go with their elders on foraging walks, looking for pandanus leaves and food. This is women’s business, so I’ll let them explain what they do.”

A proud culture The Elder, Jacinta Tipungwuti talks about the colours the other women are using to paint. Pamela Brooks and Roslyn Orsto are sitting on a blue tarpaulin spread out across the ground. They’re concentrating on painting fine brush strokes across the half-empty mussel shell.

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JACINTA TIPUNGWUTI, ELDER ON BATHURST ISL AND

“We use three different base colours,” Jacinta explains, speaking softly. “The yellow and white are natural ochres sourced from around here. To achieve the red, we burn the yellow ochre.” “And where does black come from?” someone in our group asks. “Bunnings,“ replies Teddy (Thaddeus), to much laughter. Ignoring Teddy’s joke, Jacinta reaches into a bag next to her chair. She pulls out a ceremonial headband, made from the fibres of a pandanus tree. Before pandanus can be used for weaving the women work diligently, stripping off the spiky edges and spiny leaves before boiling them in hot water. Jacinta’s mother and grandmother taught her the intricacies of weaving and now she teaches the next generation. “We take young girls aged around nine out for foraging walks to collect pandanus and search for food. While we walk, we tell culture stories about the past and the present. This is how we pass on our culture,” Jacinta explains. “They learn what our mothers showed us. We don’t need books because we have our stories, the same stories my mother told me, and her mother told her.” Romy picks up a finished shell, pointing to the design the women are working on. “These are our four skin-groups, or yiminga,” he says pointing to four quadrants. “Tiwi people are given a moiety by our father and skin colour by our mother. It forms the whole of our life.” The four skin groups are “wantarringuwi” (sun), “Miyartiwi” (pandanus), “Marntimapila” (stone), and “Takaringuwi” (mullet). Every Tiwi is born into ê

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TIWI ISLANDS

a skin-group inherited from the mother. The skin group determines the relationships you may have, to whom you can talk, and what lessons you are taught. Tiwi people must choose who to marry within permitted skin groups. They’ve been doing this for tens of thousands of years. It keeps the blood lines strong, avoiding interbreeding, which could be problematic in small, isolated communities like the Tiwi. Brothers and sisters growing up can interact with each other, but when they reach puberty, they’re not allowed to speak to each other, or even to sit together. “My sister owed me money and she wasn’t allowed to hand it to me,” Romy says. “She had to drop it on the ground and walk away before I could pick it up. We are not allowed to make eye contact.”

Tiwi art Tiwi has five art centres and we visit Tiwi Design, walking distance from our morning tea location. Operating from a brightly painted corrugated iron shed, around 18 artists work regularly at the studio producing artwork across many mediums including ochre paintings on canvas, screen printed fabrics, glass sculptures and ironwood carvings. Inside the painting studio, I meet Alan Kerinaiua. He’s working on a canvas, painting an ochre colour around the body of a serpent. Alan began painting at 19 and, 35 years later, he says animals are his favourite subject to paint. Trevor (T2), who is standing next to Alan, says conversationally, “Alan and I are related; we have the same grandfather on the Mana side.” We discuss

THE VIBRANT DESIGNS OF TIWI ART

“We don't need books, because we have our stories”

the family tree, and Alan points to the woman on the front desk. “She is my granddaughter, because we have the same grandmother.” I look at them both and am confused, as they seem close in age. To an outsider it’s a little complicated to follow, but not for the Tiwi. The first female artist to work at Tiwi Design is Maria Josetto Orsto, who shares a connection to both islands. Maria’s father, Declan Apuatimi, was a respected artist and ceremony man whose country was on Melville. Her mother, from Bathurst, was Jean Baptiste Apuatimi, an artist whose work is found in galleries around the world. Maria’s artwork has been exhibited widely, including in the National Gallery of Canberra, the Paris and Seattle Art Museum, and at Darwin Airport. “My father has been my inspiration. He taught me many things, especially the skills of carving,” Maria says. “And now it is my turn to teach children to paint and carve.” As we’re walking along the beach towards the departing ferry, Trevor shakes our hand and tells us that it has been a pleasure for him to share his culture. Given the opportunity to gain a brief insight into one of the oldest cultures in the world, I know the pleasure was all mine, Trevor.

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Darwin from Brisbane; tigerair.com.au

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ROUTE MAP

Where to next? Tigerair Australia serves 12 destinations right across the country

tigerair bases darwin

cairns

whitsunday coast

brisbane gold coast coffs harbour perth

sydney canberra (act) adelaide

FOR AN UP-TO-THE-MINUTE LIST OF OUR DESTINATIONS, VISIT TIGERAIR.COM.AU

melbourne (tullamarine)

hobart

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#GOLIKEALOCAL

GO LIKE A LOCAL CAIRNS With the world-famous Great Barrier Reef on its doorstep, it’s no surprise Cairns is synonymous with snorkelling and sunshine – but locals know there’s far more to Far North Queensland than what lies below sea level. See Sam Zulueta’s guide to Cairns and go like a local with us today.

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#GOLIKEALOCAL

L OC A L C A F E S A ND R E S TA UR A N T S Sample small batch coffee at Blackbird Espresso Like anywhere in Australia, Cairns takes its morning cuppas seriously. At Blackbird Espresso, coffee is a craft – and this team of roasters and baristas are proud to share their specialty blends with the Far North. Grab a seat in the cafe and sip on one of their signature roasts.

Grab a paleo lunch at Pantry 15 After something a little more substantial? Keep your holiday wholesome at Pantry 15. Specialising in paleo fare, this trendy cafe serves food you can feel good about, from superfood smoothie bowls to smashed avocado. And with a dedicated

breakfast and lunch menu for little ones, the whole family can fuel up for a day full of adventure.

Tuck in to freshly caught seafood at Prawn Star If you’re setting out in search of local seafood, it doesn’t get much fresher than Prawn Star. Located on a former fishing boat in the Cairns Marina, this floating bar and restaurant specialises in shellfish plucked straight from the sea. You can feast on platters of freshly shucked oysters and prawns or indulge in mud crab, crayfish and thinly sliced salmon sashimi – all with unbeatable waterfront views.

GO LIKE A LOCAL WITH TIGERAIR We put the call-out across Australia for locals to share their city’s best-kept secrets. From hidden beaches to hole-in-thewall bars, we reviewed thousands of entries from Sydney, Melbourne, Gold Coast, Adelaide and Perth. We’ve now chosen our team of local legends to feature in our #golikealocal video series. The videos uncover another side of some of Australia’s favourite holiday destinations, with knowledge that only a local might know. Watch our local legends as they journey through their home cities and find out how you can “go like a local”. tigerair.com.au/go-local

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#GOLIKEALOCAL

C A I R N S

L OC A L NIG H T L IF E Sip cocktails at Conservatory Bar A pioneer of Cairns’ flourishing small bar scene, Conservatory Bar is where quintessential Queensland architecture meets big city chic. Mix and match a selection of cheeses, meats and accompaniments to create your own grazing plate, then browse the impressive drinks menu to find your perfect pair. With seasonal cocktails, craft beer and more than 30 wines by the glass, you can be sure this hole-in-the-wall wine bar won’t disappoint.

Have a midnight snack at the night markets The perfect place to begin or end a big night out, this eclectic collection of local stalls is home to everything from handmade jewellery to traditional souvenirs.

Watch live music at Three Wolves If you like your bevvy with a side of live music, look no further than Three Wolves. Located in the heart of Cairns CBD, this laneway bar specialises in premium spirits and cocktails, with a weekly open mic night showcasing local acts. Add to that an impressive menu of Spanish tapas and share plates and you’ll have no shortage of reasons to stay for another round.

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L OC A L D AY T R IP S Take a dip at Babinda Boulders

Cool off at Josephine Falls

Nestled in the foothills beneath Queensland’s highest mountain, this natural stream and swimming hole is an ideal place to beat the tropical heat – but don’t let its lush rainforest setting fool you. While it may feel more like Jurassic Park than a national park, there are plenty of facilities for a relaxing afternoon. Pack a picnic and make use of the free barbecues or simply pop in for a quick dip before cruising back to Cairns.

Famed as one of the Far North’s most scenic waterfalls, this three-tiered cascade in the Cairns hinterland is a paradise for bushwalkers and beachgoers alike. Follow the leisurely 1.2-kilometre track to reach the viewing platform or opt to roll out a towel beneath the rainforest canopy instead. With crystal-clear water and plenty of rocks to perch on, even the most dedicated ocean lovers will forget they’re miles from the coast.

Catch the sunset at Clifton Beach Prefer to stick to the sea? Skip the rock pools and rainforests and head to Clifton Beach instead. Located just 20 minutes north of Cairns, this secluded stretch of sand is where locals go to unwind, with six kilometres of unspoiled shoreline to explore. And with the trendy bars and restaurants of Palm Cove just moments away, you can catch the sunset with a cold drink in hand.

F LY T O C A I R N S W I T H U S Don’t wait to discover Far North Queensland’s cosmopolitan hub. Check out our latest deals on cheap flights to Cairns and book your getaway in the Tropical North today.

THE TALE END

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Australia, selling out theatres in Coffs Harbour and beautiful Bellingen every year.

Mountains, beaches, and 16 days of captivating films Five years ago husband-and-wife team Dave Horsley and Kate Howat pulled up stumps in Brisbane and moved to Coffs Harbour for a sea change, starting the Screenwave International Film Festival (SWIFF). Running across 16-days from January 9-24, SWIFF has emerged as one of the fastest-growing film festivals coming out of regional Australia. Hosting a smorgasbord of over 70 different feature films from countries across the globe, SWIFF draws fans in their thousands from around

“We wanted to make a film festival that feels casual and relaxed – more love of movies, less pretence, where actors, directors and creatives can mingle with the crowd without all the fuss,” said Festival Director Dave Horsley. And it doesn’t take much to twist the arms of travelling film lovers: paddling some of the top-rated beaches in Australia, experiencing Bellingen’s famous boho lifestyle, a relaxed coastal atmosphere, and a cuttingedge film festival program to delve into and discover. At its heart is a small, dedicated team of creatives and award-winning

changemakers, helping new ideas and innovations flourish on the idyllic Coffs Coast. “We set out to make a film festival for film lovers, people like us – and what has emerged is a whole community that gets into the festival spirit each Summer, creating a unique local culture that only exists on the Coffs Coast,” explains SWIFF Artistic Director Kate Howat. Travelling audiences are recommended to book their accommodation early to secure their spot. Film passes are available to purchase in packs of 6, 12 or 24 – and can be shared with a friend – making an ideal Christmas present and a great way to experience SWIFF.

Tickets, program, travel tips and more at swiff.com.au

SW IFF

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SCREENWAVE INTERNATIONAL

FILM FESTIVAL

9 - 24 JAN | COFFS COAST HEART OF FILM

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