Tigertales Apr - May 2017 by Citrus Media

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TAKE ME AWAY

Australia | April – May 2017

FLAVOUR TOWN ➔ Melbourne’s vibrant food scene is attracting the attention of the world’s finest foodies

WINNING GOLD COAST

W E E K E N D WAR R IOR S

GOLDEN OLDIES

The GC gets ready for the Commonwealth Games

Two very different travellers take on Brisbane

From bars to theme parks, we celebrate the stayers

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All in One 29: You must have a minimum account balance of at least $29.90 to activate the All In One 29. The plan enables you to make unlimited standard national calls to Australian mobile and landline numbers and send unlimited standard SMS to Australian mobile numbers and access up to 5GB plus 2 GB Bonus data (Bonus Data will be expired on 15 February 2017) for 28 days, all while in Australia. When you activate the All In One 29, you cannot use any other Pay As You Go tariff or Saver tariff. Other services such as roaming, data usage exceeding bundle data allowance, or premium service numbers (e.g. 1900 numbers) will be charged at our standard rates (data is charged at $0.07/MB – see: lycamobile.com.au for our current rates). You can have only ONE plan per mobile number at any one time. If there is enough credit in your Lycamobile account, your plan will automatically renew at the end of the 28 days period. If you do not want your plan to renew, dial *190# and follow the instructions to cancel the plans auto renewal. The Lycamobile service is only for personal use. If you use the service unreasonably (e.g. fraudulently or for business purposes), we may suspend or cancel your service. These rates and inclusions are current as of 06/11/2016. We may remove this plan by giving 7 days’ notice on our website at lycamobile.com.au. Any plans already activated at time of withdrawal will continue until expiry of 28 days from activation.

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lycamobile.com.au UNLIMITED Plan S: You must have a minimum account balance of $29.90 to activate the UNLIMITED Plan S. The plan enables you to make unlimited standard national calls to Australian mobile and landline numbers and send unlimited standard SMS to Australian mobile numbers, unlimited minutes to 10 countries: China, Canada, India, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Mexico, New Zealand, Singapore, UK and USA, and access up to 3GB plus 3 GB Bonus data (Bonus Data will be expired on 15 February 2017) for 28 days, all while in Australia. When you activate the UNLIMITED Plan S, you cannot use any other Pay As You Go tariff or Saver tariff. Other services such as roaming, data usage exceeding bundle data allowance, or premium service numbers (e.g. 1900 numbers) will be charged at our standard rates (data is charged at $0.07/MB â&#x20AC;&#x201C; see: lycamobile.com.au for our current rates). You can have only ONE plan per mobile number at any one time. If there is enough credit in your Lycamobile account, your plan will automatically renew at the end of the 28 days period. If you do not want your plan to renew, dial *190# and follow the instructions to cancel the plans auto renewal. The Lycamobile service is only for personal use. If you use the service unreasonably (e.g. fraudulently or for business purposes), we may suspend or cancel your service. These rates and inclusions are current as of 06/11/2016. We may remove this plan by giving 7 daysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; notice on our website at lycamobile.com.au. Any plans already activated at time of withdrawal will continue until expiry of 28 days from activation.

Image Â© Robin Schwartz

SYDNEY 5-28 MAY 2017 HEADON.COM.AU

WELCOME ON BOARD

New routes and new developments Welcome on board and thank you for choosing to fly Tigerair

t has been another busy start to the year at Tigerair, with a number of significant announcements already taking place and plenty more on the horizon. We recently revealed our 13th domestic destination, with the announcement that Tigerair will operate four weekly return flights between Melbourne and Townsville from June 22. As these services will be the only low-cost daytime flights between Melbourne and Townsville, we're confident the new route will be warmly embraced by customers in North Queensland and Victoria. Tigerair also began flying our new Brisbane-Whitsunday Coast route on March 23, with four weekly return services now scheduled between two of Queensland’s most popular destinations. The exciting network developments don’t stop there, with Tigerair also set to commence the only low-cost services between Brisbane and Perth from June 1, 2017. Keep posted for more exciting developments in this space as we continue to review potential future domestic and short-haul international destinations in line with consumer demand.

“Tigerair has recorded the lowest cancellation rate of all major domestic airlines over the previous two calendar years and has also been Australia’s most punctual low-cost carrier over the same period of time” While we continue to further develop Tigerair’s destination map, our major focus remains on continuing to deliver on our promise of providing affordable and reliable air travel, coupled with friendly customer service. Tigerair has recorded the lowest cancellation rate of all major domestic airlines over the previous two calendar years and has also been Australia’s most punctual low-cost carrier over the same period of time, ensuring our product is a great-value and reliable option for travellers. For the best value deals with Tigerair, remember to plan ahead and book early, as fares will generally rise

as demand increases closer to the travel date. Also remember to sign up for our free e-newsletter, or follow us on social media (Twitter: @TigerairAU, Facebook: facebook.com/tigerairaustralia, Instagram: @tigerairaustralia) to be the first to hear about all Tigerair news and special deals. I hope you enjoy your flight and we look forward to welcoming you back on board Tigerair in the near future.

Rob Sharp, Tigerair Australia CEO

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CONTENTS

Destination directory Inside this issue… wherever you’re going, we’ve got you covered

ENCOUNTER

DARWIN DINING

Try the Top End's best bites.

F E AT U R E

GOLD COAST The GC gets ready for the Commonwealth Games.

ENCOUNTER

PERTH FOOD Check out some of the west's best places to eat and drink.

F E AT U R E

f l av o u r t o w n

Melbourne's food scene gets international attention.

39 45 48 Do stand-up paddle yoga in Canberra.

Editorial & Art Editor Paul Chai Designer Cynthia Lau Creative Director Stephanie Goh Sub Editor Adam Scroggy Production Manager Ian Scott Cover photo Alejandro Saravia, photographed by Samara Clifford

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Advertising Commercial Manager Joe Bird (02) 9186 9104 jbird@citrusmedia.com.au Printed by Bluestar Web

Management Financial Controller Stuart Harle Director Jim Flynn Publisher Steve Maidens (02) 8188 3670 steve@citrusmedia.com.au Tiger Tales is published on behalf of Tigerair by Citrus Media, PO Box 20154, World Square NSW 2002 Tel. (02) 9186 9186 citrusmedia.com.au

© 2017 All rights reserved. Reproduction or distribution in any form, in whole or in part, is prohibited without prior written permission from the copyright holder. Citrus Media is not responsible for the views and opinions of contributing journalists. Although the advice and information in this book are believed to be accurate and true at the time of going to press, neither the authors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

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THE POINTY END

T HE R OUND-UP W HAT E V E R YO U ' R E I N T O, T H E R E ' S P LE N T Y T O S E E A N D D O

VISIT

DR INK

QUEENSLAND MUSEUM Michael Bensonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Otherworlds: Visions of our Solar System is a stunning photographic exhibition that looks at the outer reaches of our solar system. The images are created using data from NASA in the United States. Brisbane, until July 2; qm.qld.gov.au

HAW K E R S BREWERY CIRCUS Melbourne brewer Hawkers has a unique way to promote its brew as part of Good Beer Week. Hawkers is opening the doors to its Reservoir brewery and offering performances by local circus artists, who will juggle beers and contort themselves for guests. Melbourne, May 13; hawkers.beer

AU S T R AL I A N WAR M E M O R I AL Not just for Anzac Day (April 25), the Australian War Memorial has a host of regular exhibitions that look closely at the various wars in which Australia has been involved, including Afghanistan: the Australian Story and Australia in the Great War, as well as serving as the national monument for war heroes. Canberra; awm.gov.au

F E S T I VA L DREAMBIG C H I LD R E N â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S F E S T I VAL This festival has been entertaining kids since 1974 with events and performances both at schools and in public venues. The big drawcard is the Big Family Weekend on North Terrace. Adelaide, May 18-27; dreambigfestival.com.au

F OOD QUEEN OF THE SOUTH Newly opened spot for traditional Mexican cuisine. Try the achiote marinated chicken with pineapple lime salsa and a corn cup with chipotle mayo. Or a Michelada cocktail: clamato juice, spice mix and beer. Melbourne, 201-209 High Street, Prahran; queenofthesouth.com.au

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GOOD BEER WEEK The Good Beer Week program has over 250 events with talks from international brewers, tap takeovers and special limited-edition brews. The program is sorted into four categories: Beer Lover, Foodie, Beer Geek and Good Times. Head to the website for more info. Melbourne, May 12-21; goodbeerweek.com.au

B A N G B A N G AT T H E R I F LE C LU B Take a seat outside and order a yuzu cocktail (gin, yuzu, lime and ginger beer). The menu is share plates with highlights like a whole chargrilled Holmbrae chicken with green nahm jim. Melbourne, 294 Glen Huntly Road, Elsternwick; bangbang.com.au

H E AD O N P H O T O F E S T I VAL The Head On Foundation seeks to celebrate the best in photography with its annual competition, where all entries are judged without names so as not to bias the judges. Across the city, look out for a host of exhibitions in May across 100 venues. Sydney, May 5-28; headon.com.au

THE POINTY END

Go camping on private land

WORDS PAUL CHAI

like the great outdoors, but I like to visit it, not sleep in it. And yet, I’m about to embark on my first camping trip, spurred on by a new website that makes camping seem more appealing – to me at least. James Woodford and his wife Prue started Youcamp in 2013, but late last year they revamped the site and partnered with outdoors stores Rays Outdoors and BCF: Boating, Camping, Fishing. “We were sitting on our property on the south coast of NSW, outside by a fire – and at that time of year, the south coast is packed,” James says. “We were up on a hill with no one else around and we could see our neighbours and their properties were empty, too. We thought, wouldn’t

it be great if there was a way to bring travellers and landowners together?” That way is Youcamp, the latest addition to the sharing economy, where farmers and landowners share their private patch of grass with you and your tent. “We wanted to bring back that old-fashioned idea of knocking on a farmer’s door and asking if you could camp by their creek,” James says. “People want more than the homogeneity of normal campgrounds where you’re packed in like sardines with tent pegs overlapping. Often, with Youcamp, you’re the only person on 100 acres, or even 5,000 acres. It is total freedom.” To test James’ theory, we’re heading to Banyon Park, a Youcamp property in the Yarra Valley just ê

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THE POINTY END an hour out of Melbourne. Then, we move on to Murrindindi, a National Park campsite in the Toolangi State Forest, another hour north of the Yarra Valley. One night private, one night public – let’s see how it stacks up. We’re cheating a bit, as our first night at Banyon Park is actually in an on-site Winnebago, because Youcamp does have the odd “glamping” option. This way I don’t have to put a tent up and down twice in two days. No need to spook the horses. When we arrive at Banyon Park, the first thing we see is some horses, as well as a pet donkey and a cantankerous bull that we’ve been warned about in our communications with hosts Carole and Garry Baxter. Then we clap eyes on the “Winnie”, perched on a perfect hill with views of the valley. Yes, we have a hot shower, stove and TV (we don’t use it!), but if you were camping you’d have the same patch of land for a fraction of the cost. And we’re the only people here. The set-up also includes a fire pit the size of a dining table ready to toast marshmallows – pretty much the only reason our two boys have agreed to come. This activity combines their two current passions: fire and sugar. We get a visit from Carole on her ride-on mower. She’s a warm host and tips us off to

IF WE WERE MEANT TO CAMP THEN WE WOULDN'T HAVE INVENTED CONCRETE... OR RESORTS

Things to do W IL H E L MIN A F A L L S W A L K Climb the one-hour each way from Cassinia Camp to see the falls, which spill over a huge boulder and down into the valley below. The walk is tough but well worth it, and you can work off those extra marshmallows.

YA R R A G L E N B A K E H O U S E When you’re over beans and sausages cooked on the open fire, buying a simple curried steak pie can be quite the treat on the way home. 30 Bell Street, Yarra Glen; facebook.com/YarraGlenBakeHouse

H A R G R E AV E S HIL L B R E W IN G C O . The perfect foil for a pie is a beer across the road at this Yarra Valley boutique brewery. Try the ESB (extra special bitter). 25 Bell Street, Yarra Glen; hargreaveshill.com.au

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“The afternoon is spent chasing yabbies in the cool river and making damper, and one of our kids leaps over a snake“

YOUCAMP Youcamp has about 90,000 Youcampers checking out the properties that range from places with a bar (in an old shed) and cabins to just grass and the stars. You apply for a spot, the hosts get in touch, and away you go. youcamp.com

a good walk on the property, which we squeeze in before sunset. Then, we open the red wine, nuke the marshmallows on the blazing fire, and cook sausages on the barbecue provided. The camping gods even put on a full moon to persuade me of the benefits of camping. “This is not camping,” my wife reminds me before heading to bed while I stay up to search for shooting stars.

The next morning, we drive to Murrindindi Scenic Reserve, north-east of Melbourne, to meet friends. They are camping ninjas who have a trolley for moving their gear and an inflatable bed I will come to envy. They make pancakes for breakfast. They also picked this spot, Cassinia Camp, as you have to carry your gear across a small bridge from the car; this separates the camping “wheat” from the camping “chaff”, according to my ninjas. It’s worth the sweat as we end up in a secluded campsite with just us, our two tents of friends and a pair of mad-keen cyclists who carry their tent on their backs. We spend the afternoon wading in the cool Murrindindi River chasing yabbies (they’re smarter than us) and making damper, which we drizzle with maple syrup. One of our kids leaps over a snake that has wandered onto the nearby path. We crack beers in the evening and a bottle of Melbourne-made Starward whisky as the fire turns to embers; we tell ghost stories and try to find the Emu in the Sky, what Indigenous Australians – the locals are the Kulin nation – see in the dark spots of the Milky Way. Come morning, I’ve definitely had better sleeps, but talk turns to the “next time” we’ll camp – which is a big step up from “never ever.” As for public vs. private, both camp spots were great, but without our friends we’d have never found Cassinia Camp. So, we’ll probably be back on YouCamp – they provide the insider knowledge for you – because apparently we camp now, too.

CAMPING OUT Youcamp connects travellers and landowners so that you have more options to stay out under the stars. It's a new addition to the sharing economy.

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THE POINTY END Buddha Lo is head chef of celebrated Melbourne fine diner Matteo’s. He is also set to present cooking classes at the inaugural Yarra Valley Wine and Food Festival. What makes Melbourne a great place to live? It’s the cultural diversity. Melbourne city is home to residents from 180 countries. The spread of different culture is what makes Melbourne exciting – especially when it comes to food. How is the food scene in the city? The food scene in Melbourne is incredible. What I’ve noticed is the comeback of fine-dining restaurants – places such as Amaru, Estelle by Scott Pickett and Matteo’s. Where are the best places in the Yarra Valley? Four Pillars Gin (2A Old Lilydale Road, Healesville; fourpillarsgin.com.au), a small Australian distillery. I love a good gin, and Four Pillars is up there with the best. Oakridge Estate Restaurant with Matt Stone (864 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream; oakridgewines.com.au) – they’re doing amazing things in the Yarra Valley with the pastry chef Jo Barrett. And I really love Mauro Callegari’s style at The Independent (79 Main Street, Gembrook; theindependentgembrook.com.au) Where do you go for a late-night snack after work? Le Bon Ton (51 Gipps Street, Collingwood; lebonton.com.au) is a restaurant tucked away in Collingwood serving a fantastic line-up of beverages and food until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays. There’s also an oyster and absinthe bar inside the restaurant that’s serving southern American style smoked meats and fried chicken – what more can you want at this time of the night?

Why I live in

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What is the one thing a tourist must do? You must have a Pimms on the Madame Brussels (59 Bourke Street, Melbourne; madamebrussels.com) rooftop in the city. Tell us something only a local would know. All the best restaurants are scattered around Melbourne. Make a trip 10-15 minutes out of the city and experience what the locals are eating and keeping to themselves.

MORE FOOD Find out more about Melbourne’s food scene in our “Bright bites, big city” feature.

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SEE BUDDHA LO The Yarra Valley Food and Wine Festival is on from April 1-2, but you can always catch Buddha, and his contemporary take on Asian fusion, at Matteo’s restaurant in North Fitzroy; matteos.com.au

THE POINTY END

THE SPLURGE

MOORABINDA LODGE Yarra Ranges

hy it’s worth it: Perfectly placed to look over the Yarra Valley, the all-about-the-view approach of the Robin Boyd-designed Moorabinda Lodge makes you feel like you’re living in an ever-changing landscape painting – soft pastels at sunrise and muted charcoals at dusk. Boyd – an outspoken architect known for his modernist style – designed the property in 1962 for owners the

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Bankins, and it’s a prime example of his attempts to provide a strong rapport between the built and natural environments. This home is in thrall to its valley view; it dominates the bedrooms, the kitchen and the dining room, and the mood of the building changes with the weather. The property has the same owners as neighbouring Coonara Springs Restaurant, and only opened to the public in March.

Bang for your buck: If you can drag yourself away from the view, the joy of Moorabinda is in the details. Coonara Springs chef Adrian Upward has filled the fridge with several types of house-smoked bacon, house-made sausages, preserves and smoked salmon. There’s a well-stocked mini-bar that runs on the honesty system and contains local wines, beers and ciders. Also in the fridge, you'll some carrots for the farm horses, Holly and Misty, so you can head down and give them a treat. The grounds contain a rope swing, several picnic tables and a wooden fort for the kids to play in that has a larger footprint than our Melbourne house.

The digs: Boyd’s creation is beautifully simple with a huge living space, a kitchen with an Aga at its centre, and nooks in which to read (there’s an entirely blue library of Pelican books) and watch television. The doors are placed to catch natural cross breezes, and there’s a huge deck. Our bedroom in the southerly wing is awash in neutral colours and soft furnishings with a deep bay window, and glass-walled bathroom. At the rear of the house is a kids’ bedroom that sleeps four and includes a rooftop cubby, drawing desk and ornate tree trunks strung with bunting. Must-do experience: Walk the five minutes down your driveway to dine at Coonara Springs restaurant, a Victorian-era cottage that has been serving happy patrons for nearly a century. Dishes on chef Adrian’s menu might include a prawn tian with avocado cream and cucumber, teriyaki salmon with cucumber gel and sesame mayonnaise; or the signature dessert of rhubarb, liquorice mousse, jelly and gingerbread. And getting home is a cinch.

K I N G O F T H E VA L L E Y Moorabinda Lodge’s view-focused design means the mood of the property changes with the light.

The damage: Moorabinda Lodge sleeps eight and is priced according to the number of guests. Prices start at $360 for two guests ($720 for two nights) and $460 for four guests ($920 for two nights). Bookings are through Valley Ranges Getaways.

WORDS PAUL CHAI

129 Olinda-Monbulk Road; valleyrangesgetaways.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 10 destinations tigerair.com.au

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e nferenc o c r o ities eting ext me nference facil ! n r u o Hold y ra Tower. Co in Canberra s t at Tels he best view t h it w

OďŹ&#x20AC;ering spectacular 360 views over Canberra and across to the Brindabella Ranges, day or night, Telstra Tower is a must place to visit. 0

Like us on Facebook Open 9.00am-10.00pm Daily

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Ph: 1800 806 718

THE POINTY END

Discover Darwin’s dining scene

WORDS TIANA TEMPLEMAN IMAGES GETTY IMAGES

hether you’re craving crocodile tail, Australia’s best seafood or a bowl of laksa better than any you’ll find in Singapore, Darwin offers some stellar dining. What’s more, you don’t need to spend a fortune or wear a suit to enjoy it, even at the city’s top restaurants. Let’s go on a foodie tour of the Northern Territory capital...

ginger to Vietnamese spring rolls, roti pancakes and Mary’s famous laksa. The latter is rumoured to be a fail-safe hangover cure. Parap is a five-minute ride from the CBD on the free shuttle bus that runs to and from the markets each Saturday. 3/3 Vickers Street, Parap parapvillagemarkets.com.au

Mitchell’s Grill Parap Village Markets Celebrate Darwin’s close proximity to Asia at Parap Village Markets, where the only thing rivalling the fabulous food is the equally fabulous vibe. Grab a mango smoothie and stroll through stalls selling everything from vibrantly coloured ornamental

Located on the ground floor of the Hilton Darwin, Mitchell’s Grill is a hotel restaurant that’s worth staying in for. Executive chef Akash Srivastava’s cuisine reflects his five-star pedigree and Far Eastern heritage while incorporating South East Asian flavours that are typical of Darwin’s dining ê

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Where to slake your thirst V I VA L A V ID A Drinks can easily drift into dinner thanks to an impressive tapas menu and considered wine list with interesting selections by the glass. Sophisticated cocktails and refreshing sangria that goes down way too easily in Darwin’s tropical heat offer two more reasons to stay a little longer at this hip inner-city bar. 48-50 Smith Street, Darwin; vivalavidadarwin.com.au

MONSOONS With live entertainment seven nights a week, Monsoons knows how to party. If you want to kick up your heels and mingle with locals, this lively bar is the place to be. For an alternate entertainment option, grab a seat outside and watch the passing parade of backpackers, tourists and thirsty revellers on Mitchell Street. 46 Mitchell Street, Darwin; monsoons.net.au

THE DECK BAR Across the road from the leafy surrounds of National Parliament House, The Deck Bar offers a quintessential outdoor Darwin drinking experience on a sprawling wooden deck. If you prefer a more genteel, traditional pub, then this chilled-out bar is for you. 22 Mitchell Street, Darwin; thedeckbar.com.au

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DARWIN SUNSET One of the best experiences is to grab a meal at the Parap market, and take it with you to find a private spot.

“Darwin offers some stellar dining – and you don’t need to spend a fortune or wear a suit to enjoy it, even at the city’s top restaurants“

culture. You’ll find some of the Northern Territory’s best seafood here, with piquant lemon myrtle crusted barramundi one of many standouts. Those who don’t eat seafood are equally well catered for with dishes such as Thai beef salad and grilled kangaroo fillet with crushed potatoes, confit cherry tomatoes and wild mushrooms. Hilton Darwin, 32 Mitchell Street, Darwin; hilton.com

Hanuman Revel in the sophisticated blend of flavours at Hanuman, a long-standing local favourite showcasing South East Asian, Indian and Nyonya-style cuisine. Dishes such as barramundi meen moilee curry and pandan chicken with sweet, sticky chilli sauce encourage return visits. And while it might be one of the best restaurants in town, there’s no need to dress up. However, you should definitely book. If you can’t get a table, Hanuman provides catering for Deckchair Cinema on Wednesday and Friday nights. 93 Mitchell Street, Darwin; hanuman.com.au

Pee Wee’s at the Point Fine dining Darwin-style is the best way to describe Pee Wee’s at the Point. The understated decor is nothing to write home about, but this breezy restaurant remains one of the city’s premier date-night venues, with stunning sunset views and Territoryinfluenced dishes such as crocodile tail wrapped in betel leaf with chilli, ginger, toasted peanuts, coconut and kaffir lime. It’s best to dine early so you can enjoy the sunset with a glass of something chilled, before darkness descends over the shimmering waters of Darwin Harbour. The Fifty Shades of Chocolate dessert is deliciously decadent and best shared with someone special. Alec Fong Lim Drive, East Point; peewees.com.au

The Pearl Whether you’re seeking a change from Asian flavours or simply after a memorable meal, The Pearl is a pearl indeed. Modern Australian cuisine enjoys a delicious dalliance with France at this Parisian-inspired diner that’s open for brunch, lunch and dinner. Classics such as steak frites mix it up with poached lobster roll for lunch and gin cured ocean trout accompanied by a classic salad of fennel and greens. The prix-fixe, six-course tasting menu is a steal at $70, making it easy to justify paying a little extra for wine matching. 9/27 Smith Street, Darwin; thepearl.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s FRESH PRODUCE IS ONE OF THE KEYS TO THE LOCAL DINING SCENE

to Darwin from Brisbane; tigerair.com.au

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CARS & CAMPAS

CARS FROM

$25

A DAY

DON’T LET YOUR FRIENDS GET GREEN WITH ENVY. BRING THEM ALONG FOR THE RIDE!

BRISBANE • CAIRNS • SYDNEY • MELBOURNE • GOLD COAST • ADELAIDE *Rates are correct at time of print and are subject to change without notice. Rates based on off peak pricing and are shown in local currency. Conditions apply.

THE POINTY END THE FEAST 1 0F 2

WHY NOT A MELBOURNEONLY FOOD AWARDS? WORDS PAUL KRISTOFF ILLUSTRATION KEV GAHAN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM

A local looks at the places that deserve a foodie gong

ustralians know all about Melbourne’s reputation as a food and drink hot spot, but outside of the country it has been relatively underappreciated. This is understandable given the distance that people have to fly to get to Melbourne, a city that doesn’t quite have the same glitz and beauty of its northern neighbour, Sydney. Melbourne is a city of immigrants, the result of which is that you can find great examples of cuisines from around the world. The varied climates of the country, and indeed Victoria itself,

means that no matter what you’re cooking, you’ll probably be able to source what you need locally and fresh. Those in the know who make the effort to visit Melbourne are rewarded with some of the best food and drink that’s found anywhere in the world. Another positive aspect of Melbourne’s dining scene is that its chefs aren’t afraid to experiment; a lack of pretension and an adventurous dining public allows for some amazing creations that might never have seen the light of day elsewhere. Top international chefs like Heston Blumenthal, Anthony Bourdain,

David Chang and Rick Stein have all sung the praises of Melbourne’s food scene and, this year, the city’s profile is about to get a whole lot bigger when the World’s 50 Best Restaurant awards come to town. To celebrate, we’ve gone ahead and created our own awards to help you decide where to eat and drink the next time you’re in Melbourne. We considered doing a winner and a runner-up, but standards are so high in Melbourne that it would have been completely arbitrary trying to ê split our top picks in each category.

WORL D’S 50 BE S T RE S TA UR A NT S The international awards see an anonymous panel of 1,000 experts rank the most exciting and innovative restaurants around the world. This year’s event will see over 800 of the world’s top food influencers converge on Melbourne’s Royal Exhibition Building in April. See our main feature on page 48.

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Best Cocktail Bar Above Board, Collingwood / Black Pearl, Fitzroy Above Board has only been open since December 2016, but it’s already one of the best cocktail bars in Melbourne. The creation of two-time bartender of the year award-winner Hayden Scott Lambert, Above Board brings a different approach to the traditional cocktail bar. The space is very minimalist, with all bottles hidden underneath the bar, so that the focus is squarely on Lambert and the art of cocktail making. Black Pearl, on the other hand, has been around since 2002 and has consistently provided one of the best cocktail experiences in Melbourne, appearing in several ’World’s Best Bars‘ lists in the process. The atmosphere is cosy, the service excellent, and the cocktails fantastic. Head upstairs to The Attic for table service and an even more relaxed, almost lounge-room-like atmosphere. Our recommendation at both venues is to leave the choice of drink up to the experts behind the bar – at places this good, they usually have a better idea of what you want than you do.

Best Casual Dining / Wine Bar Bar Liberty, Fitzroy / Embla, CBD Why have separate categories when there are two fantastic venues that easily satisfy both? It’s a happy coincidence that our picks for the best casual dining in Melbourne are also two of the city’s best wine bars. Both venues serve a range of wines across the spectrum of styles and price ranges, and both excel at making these wines accessible and unpretentious. The focus is on small, independent producers and, above all, great-tasting wines. This carries through to the food, where the highest-quality, locally sourced ingredients are used to create sublime dishes with flawless technique usually reserved for fancier establishments. Casey Wall (Rockwell and Sons) runs the kitchen at Bar Liberty, while

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Dave Verheul (Town Mouse) heads up the kitchen at Embla. Try the umami-laden, crispy-skinned roast chicken at Embla and the creamy burrata with burnt garlic and soured cucumber at Bar Liberty.

Best Cheap Eats Mr Ramen San, CBD / Shimbu, Brunswick East Melbourne had a fling with ramen a few years ago, which resulted in numerous ramen joints popping up all over town. Our favourite is Mr Ramen San, owned by head chef Roystan, who spent several years in Japan perfecting his Kyushu tonkotsu ramen. The pork bone broth is cooked for 10 hours, and you don’t have to pay extra for things like a half egg and extra noodles. The simple basement space is evocative of Japan’s ramen joints, and so too are the prices. Shimbu is a family-run restaurant that offers an assortment of traditional and nontraditional Tibetan dishes that are full of flavour, generously portioned, and well-priced. For something traditional, go for the Bedhai – a fragrant, mild heat curry made with coconut milk, vegetables, and your choice of meat. For something non-traditional, try the pork belly “tacos” served on a pan-fried roti.

Best Breakfast Vertue of the Coffee Drink, Carlton / The Crux & Co, South Melbourne It’s no coincidence that some of Melbourne’s best coffee spots also serve up some of the city’s best breakfasts, and Vertue – which roasts its beans on site – is a perfect example of this. The seasonal menu is focused and features interesting twists on Melbourne breakfast favourites – for example, try the Asian-inspired matcha waffle served with black sesame ice-cream, confit pineapple, lime curd and Vietnamese mint jelly. The Crux & Co takes the pimping up of breakfast to new heights, and thankfully the made-for-Instagram dishes have as much

THE FEAST 2 0F 2

"ABOVE BOARD HAS ONLY BEEN OPEN SINCE DECEMBER 2016, BUT IT'S ALREADY ONE OF THE BEST COCKTAIL BARS IN MELBOURNE" substance as they do style. Try the French toast with mixed berries, nuts, natural honeycomb, mascarpone and vanilla fairy floss, or for something savoury, the smoked salmon tossed through scrambled eggs with broad beans, bonito, and a tobiko and sriracha mayonnaise served on squid ink toast.

THE CITY L ANE Paul Kristoff is the editor-in-chief of food, travel and culture online magazine The City Lane, and he is one third of the craft-beer podcast team Brunswick Beer Collective. Visit thecitylane.com and brunswickbeercollective.com to find out more.

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THE POINTY END

T HE P L AY L I S T Pack these on your next trip away

GE AR

HEADPHONES

AHEAD OF THE PACK

“Being able to block out noise (and noisy passengers) is a must.”

Ben Luo White Mojo Cafe

1 HORRORSHOW BARDO STATE

interview paul chai albums matt shea

Ü Ben Luo, the owner of White Mojo Cafe, with outlets in the Melbourne CBD and the suburb of Balwyn, understands the idea that “people eat with their eyes”, and his highly stylised dishes are designed for the social media age. White Mojo delivers some of the most cutting-edge visuals in a city that’s very fond of photographing its food – and it tastes great too, of course When hitting the road for work or play, Ben is a window-seat kind of guy, because he likes a good view when he’s flying and he was last on holidays up in North Queensland where he headed for a tropical break in Cairns and along the Great Barrier Reef. He enjoys travelling and finds that it can provide him with some time to step back from the busy hospitality business. “Travel can be relaxing, and sometimes it’s good for getting some inspiration,” he says. That might mean creating a new Insta-worthy dish like his “croissant burger”, bright green matcha lattes or a dessert of an upside-down ice cream cone. White Mojo, 115 Hardware Street, Melbourne; @whitemojocafe

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TECH

MY iPHONE “I’m addicted to scrolling and catching up on social media, plus emails from White Mojo.”

Sydney duo Adit Gauchan and Nick “Solo” Bryant-Smith have invited a bunch of guests (Hayley Mary, Omar Musa and Turquoise Prince) to appear on new album Bardo State. The result is punchy and propulsive – hip-hop highly evolved. Perfect for… a day trip down Victoria’s Great Ocean Road

2 PILE

A HAIRSHIRT OF PURPOSE Introducing the best rock album of the year. Pile have dialled down just enough of their aggression while also upping the experimentation to create a listen that’s both immediately engaging and rewarding on repeat listens. Perfect for… before you catch some live music in Brisbane’s Fortitude Valley

DRINK

COKE “It’s my special treat when flying.”

TECH

iPHONE CHARGER CORD “It’s so great planes can now charge your phone while you fly. No more dead batteries for me.”

3 FUTURE HNDRXX

If you buy just one Future record, this is it. Then again, HNDRXX’s slow burn, R&Btainted take on hip-hop is so different to so much of the Atlanta rapper’s output (and he puts out a lot), it hardly feels representative. Still, it’s an exceptional listen. Perfect for… a Sunshine Coast hinterland escape

BNE PER

MELBOURNE BRISBANE SYDNEY PERTH

SYD OU T! 7–9 APRIL • 100KM T SO LD EV EN

16–18 JUNE • 55KM AND 100KM 25–27 AUGUST • 50KM AND 100KM

22–24 SEPTEMBER • 50KM AND 100KM

MEL

Photo: Mark Dadswell/OxfamAUS

YOU WON’T BELIEVE YOU CAN, BUT YOU WILL.

THE POINTY END

Have a boys’ (or girls’) weekend at Blueys Beach

WORDS PAUL CHAI

nce a year, a group of friends that I’ve known since high school take over a beach house at Blueys Beach in NSW, a few hours’ drive north of Sydney. This year, I’ve decided to make the pilgrimage from Coffs Harbour instead of Sydney, and I immediately love my decision as I’m out of Coffs Airport and on the highway in a matter of minutes. It’s a cruisy three-and-a-bit hours’ drive south to Blueys from Coffs past the Manning Valley and forgotten little coastal towns like Crowdy Head, which has a claim on Australia’s most precariously placed motel, sitting like a crown on the windswept headland.

Pulling into Blueys Beach feels a bit like arriving at that beachside holiday home I never had a hope in hell of affording. After years of visits, the meagre streets that actually constitute Blueys proper have a homey feel – and I can always tell our particular house by the sheer number of cars parked out front. There is one, very refreshing, rule of the weekend: do what you like. Generally, we split into two camps: surfers keen to hit the waves, and “canners” keen to hit the booze. This can result is some people going to bed just as others are rising to pull on a wetsuit, but there’s

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“Blueys Beach is as simple-yetperfect as an oily sausage on fresh white bread“

Where to stay Grab a house by the beach or some simple motel accommodation...

BLUEYS BEACH Giving away our particular annual beachside getaway would see me hazed, which involves snorting crushed potato chips, drinking lychee liqueur and squirting lime in your eye (really, that's a thing). But beachfront accommodation is available from this website: pacificpalmsholidays.com.au

COFFS HARBOUR Clean and friendly Caribbean Motor Inn is across the road from the Coffs Harbour Jetty shops, which includes Element Bar. 353 Harbour Drive, Coffs Harbour; caribbeanmotel.com.au

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never any conflict – save for that one year when all the breakfast bacon was eaten in a spontaneous 3am feast. Now, we just buy extra bacon. The reason this retreat works so well is, in part, due to the location. Blueys Beach is as laconic as the late-morning conversations, as uncluttered as our packed bags of board shorts (and little else), and as simple-yet-perfect as an oily sausage sitting in fresh white bread. The beach can remain mesmerising even after days of staring at it from the beach-shack balcony. It boasts a perfect crescent of sand bracketed by soaring cliffs, the north side crowded with posh houses on Millionaire’s Row, the south as wild and untamed as Jurassic Park’s Isla Nublar – save for the world’s most unlikely patch of farmland shaved into the cliff but devoid of any farm animals, since even a cow would likely blow away. In the evening, the crashing waves whip up a sunset mist; at sundown, the dark shapes of a pod of dolphins surf the waves; and at night, the waves crash a wild, phosphorescent blue thanks to a collection of small, bioluminescent sea creatures. These glow-in-the-dark waves are rivalled only by the shooting stars overhead, nature entertaining us with a competing light show

THE FAMOUS COFFS HARBOUR JE T T Y AT SUNSE T. THERE ARE AL SO GREAT BARS AND INDIAN CURRIES A SHORT WALK AWAY

Blueys excursions If you must leave your beachside abode...

T W E N T Y B Y T W E LV E Blueys very own mega-complex, this takeaway shop, up-market cafe and homewares store takes up most of the modest main street. Come here for the “Lizzie” chicken burger with avocado and bacon and the smashed avocado with roasted Roma tomatoes, chilli oil and lemon – because man cannot live on bacon alone. 7a/207 Boomerang Drive, Blueys Beach

SEAL ROCKS LIGHTHOUSE

both in heaven and on earth – all to the soundtrack of Metallica and Slayer. Days are no longer measured by hours, but rather by barbecues. Bacon wafts into the rooms in the late morning; sausages signal lunch. Dinner usually comes in two parts: early and god-I-could-murder-somebacon late. We dodge showers and veggies in equal measure. There’s a regular sunset pilgrimage to the “The Recky”, the Pacific Palms Recreational Club (3957 The Lakes Way, Pacific Palms; pprc.com.au), whose lakeside spot on Wallis Lake makes it a local magnet for sundowners and very bad DJs. Before long, it’s all over, and I’m headed back to Coffs Harbour where I overnight near the famous jetty. I have a final weekend beer in Element Bar (380 Harbour Drive, Coffs Harbour Jetty; facebook.com/ elementbarcoffs), where I’m treated to some great craft brews and looked down upon by retro tattoo pin-ups painted on the walls. In the corner, an acoustic duo is playing a live set that includes a surprisingly good cover of Michael Jackson’s Billie Jean. The bar’s heavy-metal industrial décor has replaced the heavy-metal music that has punctuated much of the weekend away – and already I’m looking forward to next year.

COFFS HARBOUR FROM THE SK Y Stay a night in Coffs Harbour and check out the beaches, bars and restaurants.

Sugar Loaf Point Lighthouse at Seal Rocks is a short drive and has a commanding view of the ocean. This is a prime whale-watching spot during the season (May to November) and a worthy wander any day of the year. And you can even stay in the old lighthouse keeper’s cottage. 1 Kinka Road, Seal Rocks; sealrockslighthouse accommodation.com.au

B O O T I B O O T I N AT I O N A L P A R K BOOTI BOOTI NATIONAL PARK, A SHORT DRIVE FROM BLUEYS BEACH, CAN BE A CALMER SPOT FOR SWIMMERS

Just a short drive north of Blueys, this can be a more forgiving beach for swimmers, as Blueys itself can get a bit rough for novices. nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

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THE PASSENGER

TRAVEL & FAVES 1 0F 2

A round-table chat with three different travellers. This issue’s topic: favourite places

ILLUSTRATION GREGORY BALDWIN, THE ILLUSTRATION ROOM

Connor McLeod, hidden Sydney It’s the curse of being a travel writer that people inevitably ask: “Where is the best place you’ve ever been?” The answer to that is hard for a number of reasons: places are great for a variety of different reasons; time changes how you feel about a trip; and sometimes the places you love personally don’t fit with the glamorous answer people are looking for. One of my favourite things is seeing a city you know really well in a different way, and on a recent trip to Sydney I got

to do just that. The NSW capital is known for its glitz and glamour – the Harbour Bridge, the Opera Bar – but instead, I took a wander around the harbour with a local who took me to some of the lesser-known spots. My guide used to live in Cremorne Point, on the northern side of the harbour, and he took me down to the park on the very tip of this tiny peninsula at the end of the day. After a short walk through the trees you arrive at stairs that lead down to a mini-lighthouse – also known as the Robertson Point

Lighthouse. The lighthouse is about 10 feet high and bright white, and it warns boats away from the rocks with a green light. You can no longer go out to the lighthouse, but my guide used to climb up to the small balcony and sit right next to the beacon before the fun police put up the spiked gate that now greets you. But even without scaling the lighthouse, this is one view of Sydney Harbour that only locals would know. Sitting here around sunset, we watched the lights of the city slowly come to life and saw the ferries ê

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criss-crossing the choppy waters taking commuters home for the day. After that, we drove around to another northern point, the tip of Bradley’s Head where Taronga Zoo is situated. Here, you can view the harbour at night to the soundtrack of elephants trumpeting and the splashing of seals. It’s harbourside Sydney, but not as you know it.

Sarah Mitchell, beachcomber It’s a cliche, but I love a good beach. My ideal holiday is to rent a shack as close to the sand as my budget will allow (sometimes right on the beach with a track through the bushland that winds down to the beach) with a group of friends and just kick back and do nothing. I’m not even that big a fan of swimming – or any other type of water activities. There’s just something about the crashing sound of the waves and the smell of salty air that relaxes me. And if I can hear those waves from my bedroom window I have some of the soundest

"WHEN IT COMES TO MY FAVOURITE DESTINATIONS, SECLUDED BEACHES, I TRULY BELIEVE WE HAVE THE BEST IN THE WHOLE WORLD" 36

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sleeps ever – or I think I do... and aren’t they pretty much the same thing? My favourite beach? Well, the more secluded and lesser-known the better; when it comes to beaches, I don’t really like to share. Just north of Coffs Harbour is Moonee Beach, where you can be the only people in a secluded bay while the crowds tend to frequent the more evocatively named neighbours: Sapphire Beach and Emerald Beach. You can stay right near this secret spot at the North Coast Holiday Parks. Another favourite is Culburra Beach on the NSW south coast a couple of hours drive from Sydney. There’s so little to distract you there: just a small set of shops and a few streets, most with classic singlestorey weatherboard houses whose sole purpose is to give you somewhere to rest in between visits to the stretch of sand. I’m not always one to rave about how amazing Australia is as a travel destination. I love it, but there are incredible spots all over the world. But when it comes to my favourite destinations – secluded beaches – I truly believe we have the best in the whole world.

Paul Chai, home Being on the road for a fair portion of the year, I always tend to appreciate being home. Not necessarily in a binge-watcha-whole-series-on-the-couch kind of way, but rather in a don’t-forget-to-exploreyour-own-backyard kind of way. Luckily, my backyard is Melbourne, so there’s plenty going on.

TRAVEL & FAVES 2 0F 2

As a live music fan I love going to gigs, and I’m spoilt for choice with places like Ding Dong Lounge, Howler and Cherry Bar. On Sundays I head for our local pub, the Post Office Hotel in Coburg. This renovated old pub is the home of local brew Coburg Lager and the new Pentridge Pale Ale, named after the historic prison up the road, which has been decommissioned and turned into flats. I keep my eyes peeled for the quiet weekday gigs at the Retreat Hotel in Brunswick, or go for the eclectic line-up that plays small bar Bar Oussou, another beloved local joint. Melbourne is the weekend-away capital of Australia with more diversity in just a couple of hours’ drive than any other city. There are the wineries of the Yarra Valley, the calm bay beaches of Port Phillip, or the surf beaches of Torquay and the Mornington Peninsula. You have the Great Ocean Road and the famous waves of Bells Beach, or you can head to the mountain walks and gourmet food of the Mount Macedon region and the fern-fringed roads of the Dandenongs. You can be in the former goldfields of Ballarat in about two hours and you can be in the snowfields of Mount Buller in just over three. You can hit the spas in Daylesford, try the lakes district in Gippsland or the lesserknown winery area outside of Seymour in the Strathbogie Ranges, an hour north of Melbourne, that has top tipples like Tahbilk, Fowles Wines and Mitchelton Wines. Okay, that was tiring just listing the options of weekend getaways – might be time for some TV binge watching.

AFTER 6'3 6'1 5'11

5'11

BEFORE

5 10cm TALLER

www.TALLER.com.au

An experience rich in heritage. Built in 1899, The Perth Mint is Australia’s oldest operating mint and Perth’s premier destination where you can experience the magic, allure and wonder of gold. • Come and experience Western Australia’s rich golden history. • See the world’s largest gold coin – 1 tonne of pure gold valued at over $50 million. • Witness the spectacle of a traditional gold pour in our original melting house. • Touch more than $500,000 of pure gold bullion. • Marvel at precious metal coins being minted before your eyes. • Purchase unique Western Australian treasures including exquisite Argyle Pink Diamonds and Kailis Australian Pearls. Tax free sales available.

Open 7 Days from 9am to 5pm Gold Exhibition – Shop – Café

perthmint.com.au/visit

THE POINTY END

Taste the best of Perth’s south-west

WORDS TANIA CONNOLLY

eventeen years ago, Karl Hillier chose Western Australia’s stunning south-west as the perfect backdrop to establish his winery. Harris River Estate is set in acres of natural bushland in the picturesque town of Collie, two hours south of Perth and two hours north of Margaret River. “I like the bush and the quietness, the freedom it has,” Karl says of the property, which includes an agistment centre plus 24 hectares under vine, which grows six grape varieties: chardonnay, verdelho, viognier, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Karl also purchased a cider-making operation and then added a microbrewery to offer another

alternative for non-wine drinkers. As a qualified brewer, his favourite beer is their Black Diamond Schwarz lager, which has the appearance of a stout. Karl’s wife, Julie, admits her favourite tipple is their viognier, and reveals they’ll soon be introducing a sparkling wine. “We produce 1,200 tonnes a year, so we’re classed as a small winery,” she says. “We’ve got our own bottling line, labelling line and harvesters. So we do everything – the whole supply chain.” The couple often goes on reconnaissance to the Swan Valley and Margaret River to taste what’s on offer elsewhere. Says Karl: “I generally like to sample them all to get a feel for the point of difference between breweries.” ê

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Where to stay in the south-west

THE POINTY END

The best accommodation on the wine trail...

H A R R I S R I V E R E S TAT E To accommodate visitors, Karl recently built two independent, self-contained chalets at Harris River Estate. Within walking distance of the vineyard, restaurant and brewery, the chalets offer privacy and convenience. Close to mountain bike tracks and walking trails, the two-bedroom chalets sleep seven and are equipped with a kitchen and dining area, washing machine and tumble dryer, and spectacular views of the estate. 442 Harris River Road, Harris River; harrisriverestate.com.au

WHISPERING PINES B&B Choose a romantic, secluded getaway beside the tranquil Collie River, where a private jetty is available for fishing, canoeing or swimming. Containing only three rooms, guests can choose one with a downstairs courtyard or a treetop balcony. 1 Rowe Street, Collie; whisperingpinesbandb.com.au

C O L L IE R ID G E M O T E L The contemporary style motel features 53 rooms surrounded by manicured gardens, gas BBQs and ample parking. The up-market Ridge Restaurant offers al fresco dining, room service and packed lunches. Coalfields Highway, 185-195 Throssell Street, Collie; collieridgemotel.com.au

“‘I like the bush and the quietness, the freedom it has,’ Karl says of the property, which includes an agistment centre plus 24 hectares under vine“

At Harris River Estate, guests can enjoy their beverages with a tapas meal, either while relaxing on the balcony overlooking the surrounding forest and vineyard, or on the lush lawn of the spacious beer garden that offers panoramic views of the valley, and the enormous rustic cellar doors. We got Karl’s hot tips on where to taste the best of Perth and the south-west:

Southern Star Vietnamese Restaurant This is Karl’s go-to Perth restaurant. He always washes down his meal with an ice-cold bottle of Matso’s mango beer or ginger beer – brewed in Broome, you can find Matso’s on the menus of many Perth eateries. Also available is Beer 333, from Vietnam. 1/132 Terrace Road, Perth; southernstarcafe.com.au

The Wild Bull Brewery Just out of Bunbury in the town of Ferguson is the Wild Bull Brewery, whose handcrafted brews include a Black Angus or a pear cider. Karl favours the handcrafted, additive-free and preservative-free pale ale, however. The “bull ring” is a huge entertainment space within the brewery, and Wild Bull also has local arts, crafts and a range of fun Wild Bull merchandise. 562 Pile Road, Ferguson; wildbullbrewery.com.au

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STAY A WHILE AT HARRIS RIVER ESTATE AND TASTE A CURRENT VINTAGE, OR TWO

Mojo’s Restaurant Cafe On a rare day off, Karl and Julie stop in at Mojo’s – a Bunbury CBD restaurant known for the depth of its boutique beers list – for a tapas lunch of buffalo wings and Arthurs Grove olives – and when he’s all beered out, Karl goes for the Woodgate Bojangles pinot noir chardonnay. Victoria St, Bunbury; mojosrestaurant.com.au

Wise Wine Boasting two restaurants and an amazing position in Margaret River just a short drive from the region’s rugged coastline is Wise Wine, owned by Ron and Sandra Wise. Karl and Julie immerse themselves in the ambience of this intimate, independent winery with a glass of individually crafted Eagle Bay shiraz. 237 Eagle Bay Road, Eagle Bay; wisewine.com.au MANGO BEER AND A PL ATE OF PERTH'S BEST VIETNAMESE

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Perth from Brisbane (from June 1), Sydney and Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

TASTE OF THE WEST Perth’s south-west has some amazing wine and produce and can show it off in restaurants like Mojo’s (pictured above and top), which has a big boutique beer list too.

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drone's-eye view

cir c ul a r qu ay SY DNE Y

We sent a drone to hover above Sydney's most famous asset so you can scope out the hot spots to visit...

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SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE

ARIA

C I R C U L A R Q U AY

Grab a quayside drink at Opera Bar, a snack at Opera Kitchen or just sit on the forecourt and watch the world go by. At the end of May, the Avalanches host a “Since I Left You” block party. sydneyoperahouse.com

Restaurant makeovers are all the rage at the moment with Melbourne's Attica and Cutler & Co all getting a facelift (see page 48). In Sydney, it’s Matt Moran's Aria, positioned right on the harbour, that was renovated late last year. ariarestaurant.com

Check out the free entertainment, grab a coffee or take a ferry to Manly – one of the best, and cheapest, ways to see the harbour. sydney.com.au

DRONES FOR HIRE

Q U AY

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART

This is Peter Gilmore's restaurant in the Overseas Passenger Terminal. The chef is famous for his desserts that used to make MasterChef Australia contestants quiver in fear. quay.com.au

Sydney's modern art museum has a great cafe with, you guessed it, harbour views. French-Algerian artist Kader Attia has a solo exhibition that runs until July 30. mca.com.au

THE ROCKS Sydney's historic precinct with markets, restaurants and historic pubs. It also has a seafood spot that we celebrate in our “Back to the old skool” feature, on page 66. therocks.com

We'd like you to meet dronesforhire.com.au – Australia's largest online directory of drone operators. Their team sent us this stunning drone shot of Sydney. To get images of your house, construction site, or even to map a large area, visit dronesforhire.com.au.

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TigerAir? How about a Tiger Bungalow!!

A Room with a Zoo...

Unforgettable Dining

Giraffe Treehouse

Jamala Wildlife Lodge in Canberra offers 3 very different accommodation facilities and is amongst the most unique animal lodges in the world. You can stay in uShaka Lodge with its own shark tank, in a Jungle Bungalow virtually built into the habitat of a bear, lion, tiger or cheetah, or in a Giraffe Treehouse where you hand feed your tall neighbour. Included are afternoon and morning tours, 5 star accommodation, gourmet meals and fine wines. Dining is in the uShaka Lodge tropical rainforest cave where you will be joined by magnificent white lions and hyenas. Ph: 02 6287 8444 | Fax: 02 6287 8403 Email: info@jamalawildlifelodge.com.au Web: www.jamalawildlifelodge.com.au Address: 999 Lady Denman Drive, Canberra ACT 2611

THE POINTY END

Try stand-up paddle yoga in Canberra

WORDS SUE WHITE

acking my bag, it quickly becomes clear the yoga class I’m about to attend will be far from average. Watch? Best left at home. Change of outfit? Better safe than sorry. Sunglasses? Definitely; but only the crap ones. I’m in Canberra preparing for my first stand-up paddle (SUP) yoga class. Yes, yoga, on a stand-up paddle board, just a downward facing dog or two away from Parliament House. Yoga teacher Jo Flynn was so enamoured with the idea of running SUP yoga on Canberra’s Lake Burley Griffin that she headed to the USA to qualify as an instructor. Following the instructions on the enrolment form ahead of my class reminds me just how bonkers the idea is: “Please do not

bring expensive sunglasses, jewellery, wallets, mobile phones, cameras or any other items you wouldn’t want to donate to the wildlife or fish at the bottom of the lake.” Arriving at the eastern edge of Lake Burley Griffin for our 6pm class, I spot a half-dozen boards lying face up. Matt, who owns the boards through his business (SUP Caveman), is joining us – and he and Jo brief us on what lies ahead. Paddle wise, it’s simple: we’re only heading 100 metres out onto the lake. From there, we “tie on” – a manoeuvre that ensures my board only meanders metres from Jo’s instruction, rather than floating into the path of a passing rowboat while I’m busy tackling a warrior position. ê

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Lying on my back, I let my fingers dangle in the water. Things start innocuously enough with some gentle breathing (extra relaxing thanks to the gentle rocking of the wide board). But things change quickly: apparently, Jo needs me to move to my hands and knees. My brain fails to calculate how this is possible with any sense of composure, so, body and board wobbling precariously, I unglamorously clamber my way up. Once stable, I manage to get through a simple cat and cow (arched back) pose, and surprise myself by staying afloat through a leg-lift sequence that requires my leg to hover over the water. As Jo – looking fit and sounding chirpy as she bobs serenely on her board a few metres away – continues to issue gentle instructions, I start to think this is actually doable: “Raise your leg and let’s move to the other…” PLOP. A large splash to my left is followed by laughter, and then a call: “Don’t worry, it’s not deep!” Our first victim has fallen in, but my own position feels so tenuous I don’t even turn to look. Surely, if I stay focused, I’ll stay dry. “Okay,” announces Jo. “Tree pose.” Is she kidding? One-legged on a board? “There’s a technique,” pipes Matt from somewhere over my left shoulder. While I believe Matt in theory, the reality proves to be quite different. Almost instantly, there’s a plop to my left. Shortly after, another plop to my right as my classmates fall foul of the move. In solidarity, I decide it would be

THE POINTY END

“Our first victim has fallen in, but my own position feels so tenuous I don’t even turn to look“

un-yogic of me not to try, so I take a breath, put my weight onto my left leg, and lift my right foot. PLOP. Abandoning all pretense of dignity, I squeal, fall sideways into the lake, and suck in a large mouthful of water. At least I’m in good company: 80 per cent of the class joins me. Not Jo, though; while she says she does fall occasionally, today her stabilising muscles are clearly working better than most of the class. When our hour is up, I lie on my board, drenched but content as I settle back for savasana (relaxation). This may be bonkers but, fingers dangled in the water, I feel surprisingly relaxed. Until, that is, I realise there’s one problem: I still need to paddle back to shore. Stand-up paddle yoga classes run at 6pm Thursdays, weather permitting. Depart from Molonglo Reach on Lake Burley Griffin. Bookings essential. jogayoga.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Canberra from Melbourne; tigerair.com.au

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CHEF ALEJANDRO SAR AVIA , F R O M P A S T U S O I N A C/ D C L A N E IN THE CITY

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MELBOURNE FOOD

Bright bites, big city Vibrant, multicultural, fresh and original, Melbourne’s food scene is getting the whole world to sit up and take notice. Paul Chai talks to some of the city’s top chefs, and some outsiders, about what makes this city such a foodie hub. PHOTO SAMARA CLIFFORD

oving faster than a runaway food truck, Melbourne’s culinary scene recently attracted world attention when the city was picked as the host of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards – the foodie Olympic Games. In April, the greatest chefs in the world will taste, sip and dissect the city’s food scene – the first time in the history of this powwow of international chefs that it has been hosted outside of New York or London – which puts Melbourne in some serious foodie company. In addition, Melbourne is offering up a big serve of local food events from the 25th Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (until April 9; melbournefoodandwine.com.au) to the first-ever Yarra Valley Wine & Food Festival (April 1-2; visityarravalley.com.au). The Victorian capital is home to the hottest table in Australia, Ben Shewry’s Attica, which came in at number 33 on last year’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list

– the highest local entry. This is the town that cooked up Shannon Bennett’s fine diner Vue de Monde, on the 55th floor of the Rialto skyscraper; Frank Camorra’s MoVida, the graffiti-covered laneway bar booked out months in advance; and it’s where MasterChef judge George Calombaris has a whole smorgasbord of venues, from the up-market Press Club to the home-cooked Greek of Hellenic Republic in the northern suburbs. There’s local hero Andrew McConnell, who has Supernormal (for steamed pork buns) and Cumulus Inc (for a steamy date night); 400 Gradi’s Johnny Di Francesco (former World Pizza Champion) turning out pizzas you could serve on the streets of Napoli; and the fine-dining Chinese of Gilbert Lau’s Flower Drum. Like an enthusiastic patron at an all-you-can-eat buffet, I could keep going, but I’d rather get to the bottom of why Melbourne is such a great town for ê a night of eating.

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FEMALE CHEF OF THE YEAR, SLOVENIA’S ANA ROS, IS A FAN OF MELBOURNE FOOD

THE LOVE OF FOOD CUTS DEEP Peruvian chef Alejandro Saravia runs Pastuso, a restaurant in the city’s AC/DC Lane that specialises in ceviche and pisco: two very important food groups. Alejandro moved to Melbourne from Sydney a few years ago because he feels the restaurant industry in Melbourne has more stability and depth. Because of this professionalism, he believes there are more restaurants in Melbourne that may be one or two decades old, but still draw a strong and loyal crowd. But it’s also a city that likes to see innovation. “It is a city that is always open to embrace new flavours, new concepts and new ideas, as long as they are done right or done with professionalism,” Alejandro says. One of the key differences in Melbourne as compared to the other Australian capitals, he continues, is that this love of food goes deeper than just going out to eat. “When I first moved here, what surprised me as I met people is they are all involved in food in some way, professional or casual, big scale or small scale,” Alejandro says. “For example, I met a friend here and she invited me to her ‘passata day’ (Italian tomato sauce). She works in an advertising company and has no interest to get into the restaurant business, no restaurants as clients, but her Italian heritage has put food in her life in such a way that it’s a really important thing. They all get together at the end of the tomato season in February and make 200 litres of passata, just to have at home.”

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“Melbourne has had a long tradition of great restaurants and an excellent coffee culture. People that live in Melbourne know what they like and in general they are very loyal to their restaurants.” – P E T E R G IL MOR E , Q U AY R E S TA UR A N T, S Y DNE Y

photo (top) Josie Withers Photography

MELBOURNE FOOD

Alejandro has had offers to go foraging for mushrooms, make homemade sausages, and go fishing, and so has come to believe that food, and everything around food, is ingrained in the Melbourne culture. “In Sydney, it’s more about the cult of the body; it’s lets walk to Bondi, or go swimming – very different,” he says. It wasn’t always that way. French-Algerian chef Pierre Khodja remembers a time when food wasn’t as important. “Melbourne has changed. I came here 14 years ago, and it wasn’t the same. Now it has just gone bananas,” Pierre says. “I’ve worked in Paris and London, and now Melbourne is becoming one of the best foodie cities in the world.” Pierre puts the food boom down to the great mix of cultures. Melbourne has a strong history of immigration from parts of Europe like Italy and Greece, countries that make food a central part of their life. But he also believes Melbourne isn’t just looking to its collective past, but is also forging a new food culture: one that is casual in nature but with serious respect for produce – and one that extends way beyond the city centre. ê

E AT I N G Y O U R W AY A R O U N D T H E W O R L D Melbourne’s dining tables celebrate the best of the world’s cuisine with restaurants like the French-Algerian Camus (above), Italian at Grossi Florentino (top), and Spanish tapas at MoVida (opposite page).

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EST.1999

W W W. M A D E I N E A R T H . C O M . A U

MELBOURNE FOOD

Pierre opened his new restaurant Camus this year in the northern suburb of Northcote. Camus celebrates Pierre’s North African heritage with share plates like Algerian paella and slow-cooked goat, caramelised onions and apricot. In other cities, debuting a new cuisine this far from the CBD might be a risk, but Camus has been packed since opening. And it isn’t the only show in its part of town, with cafes like Top of the Hill, and high-end dining like ESP: Estelle by Scott Pickett (245 High Street, Northcote; estellebysp.com) on the same strip. In mature foodie cities, a small neighbourhood diner can also hold a Michelin star, and Pierre thinks that’s where Melbourne dining is heading. “People love neighbourhood restaurants. Now we have a little bit of backstreet Paris in Northcote,” he says. But just as Melbourne has embraced the idea of top-drawer dining away from the CBD, so too has Paris picked up some of Melbourne’s habits. Pierre says share plates and casual dining have finally broken through in the change-resistant City of Lights, and he credits Australian chefs with helping make the shift. “That’s Melbourne now; at Camus I didn’t compromise on the glassware or tables and chairs, but it’s very affordable, very relaxed. You can walk in here in shorts and thongs and still have a great meal,” he says.

ANA ROS (LEFT) IS ONE OF THE INTERNATIONAL GUESTS HEADING TO MELBOURNE

TIP OF THE ICEBERG Melbourne is really just the apex of the Victorian food pyramid, with the regions funnelling amazing produce into the city for the chefs to fry, knead, slice and dice. The diversity, quality and passion that goes into these regions is a key part of what makes Melbourne’s food so special. On a recent trip to the King Valley, three hours north of Melbourne, I had the pleasure of dining with the Pizzini family on their vineyard as part of an Ultimate Winery Experiences tour (ultimatewineryexperiences.com.au). One-time tobacco growers, the Pizzinis switched to wine and are now leaders in traditional Italian varieties like ê prosecco, nebbiolo and sangiovese.

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MELBOURNE FOOD Sitting on a long table with three generations of Pizzinis, there’s a continuous conveyer belt of amazing dishes flying past, from patriarch Alfredo Pizzini’s char-grilled pigeon to his wife Katrina’s indulgent tiramisu. Tales are told, new vintages tested, dusty bottles discovered. In the shadow of the old corrugated iron tobacco sheds, this table isn’t simply food as a living, but food as life. “The quality of the produce being grown in the regions and the wines and the distilleries are just amazing,” Alejandro says. “They are just waiting for people to champion them. Brae is doing that in Birregurra, Lake House is doing that in Daylesford, Igni is doing it in Geelong. Yes, come to Melbourne – but then stay a day or two in the regions.”

Melbourne’s top tables AT TICA This is Australia’s top table with chef Ben Shewry creating culinary masterpieces that piqued the interest of the world. But he’s not one to rest on his laurels, so in February this year he closed Attica for renovations, and opened it again in March with a brand new room. “In the dining room absolutely everything has changed,” Ben says. “Nothing has been retained. Not a piece of furniture, colour or fitting. It’s completely regenerated and re-engineered. We wanted an iconic Australian design and no bad tables – those were my only two stipulations [to architect Iva Foschia].” 74 Glen Eira Road, Ripponlea; attica.com.au

BRAE Also one to impress the World’s 50 Best Restaurant judges was Brae, in Birregurra near the Great Ocean Road. Chef Dan Hunter, who found himself at 65 on last year’s (extended) list, cooks with wood smoke, uses local ingredients, grows his own vegetables and produces plates that just get better and better over multiple courses. 4285 Cape Otway Road, Birregurra; braerestaurant.com

VUE DE MONDE Chef Shannon Bennett’s sky-high diner comes with equally high expectations thanks

PIERRE KHODJA (CENTRE, BELOW ) OPENED CAMUS ( ABOVE) IN THE SUBURB OF NORTHCOTE

to his wizardry in the kitchen, TV appearances and burgeoning Vue Group empire, which last year took on Singapore investors in order to grow ventures such as the Burnham Beeches gastronomic destination in the Yarra Ranges. Adventurous diners opt for the 10-course extravaganza. Rialto, Rialto Towers, 525 Collins Street, Melbourne; vuedemonde.com.au

CUTLER & CO Andrew McConnell has a miniempire in the city with his Chinese diner Ricky & Pinky, Cumulus Inc, and upmarket butcher Meatsmith. But his Gertrude Street fine diner Cutler & Co remains a favourite, and having been closed for renovations from February to March this year, it has a brand-new look. 55–57 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy; cutlerandco.com.au

MOVIDA Frank Camorra’s laneway legend offers up refined tapas, like his signature Cantabrian anchovy and smoked tomato sorbet on top of a crisp crouton, spinach and manchego croquetas and duck liver parfait. Since its opening in 2003 this has been the benchmark for Spanish food, and now has outlets next door (MoVida Next Door) and at the Supreme Court (MoVida Aqui) 1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne; movida.com.au

Pierre agrees, and says the regional produce is key to a Melbourne foodie visit. “I go through five goats a week from the Yarra Valley,” he says. “Visitors should go to Mornington Peninsula wineries and Yarra Valley farm gates. They should go to South Melbourne markets. Amazing produce goes through those markets, and they’re open late at night and they do cooking classes. There is a lot happening. They are very exciting.” This popularity has led to many chefs lining up to sing the praises of Melbourne – even those names synonymous with its chief Aussie rival, Sydney. Peter Gilmore, the genius behind Quay Restaurant in the Overseas Passenger Terminal at Circular Quay, is a big fan of Melbourne. “Melbourne is always quick to ê

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MELBOURNE FOOD THE WRITING’S ON THE WALL The arrival of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Heston Blumenthal calling for a Down Under Michelin Guide, and local chefs like Alejandro Saravia (left) celebrating international flavours: Melbourne tastes great.

pick up on global dining trends. For example, the small bar scene really began in Melbourne and then spread into other capital cities,” says Gilmore, citing Flower Drum as one of his must-eat Melbourne spots. Ana Ros is this year’s World’s Best Female Chef, part of the World’s 50 Best awards, and she runs the intimate restaurant, Hisa Franko, in Slovenia. She’s heading out to the awards this year but has already been on a trip to Melbourne to dine with Ben Shewry. “Attica was an outstanding experience,” she says. “I remember fantastic fruits and vegetables and especially those amazing oysters from Tasmania. There’s some wonderful and very unique local produce.” Another strong supporter of Melbourne, and Australia, is UK mad-chemist chef Heston Blumenthal, who relocated his famous Fat Duck restaurant here last year and even went as far as to pen a story for the UK’s The Telegraph about Melbourne dining, where he said the city is “exciting, cultural, vibrant, and has a fantastic diversity of restaurants.” Alejandro worked with Heston at the Fat Duck and thinks his former mentor’s support is a big help. “The more endorsement we have by chefs with that sort of profile, the better for the city – having not only Heston but Australian chefs like David Thompson (who recently opened Long Chim in the CBD),” Alejandro says. “Melbourne is the gastronomical hub of Australia. Sydney can cry about it, but this is the reality.”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Melbourne from 10 destinations; tigerair.com.au

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DESTINATION BRISBANE

DE S T IN AT ION BR I S B A NE

L UC Y

is a Tiger Tales reader who loves cycling.

weekend warriors ONE

DESTINATION, TWO DIFFERENT ADVENTURES CYCLING VS HIDDEN WONDERS

TIANA

is a Brisbane travel journalist who loves discovering hidden wonders.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

CLIFF-TOP BRE A K FA S T I find the nearest CityCycle Station (citycycle.com.au), hire my bike for the day and follow The Cliffs Boardwalk at Kangaroo Point Cliffs. Breakfast at the Cliffs Cafe (29 River Terrace, Kangaroo Point; cliffscafe.com.au) is a perfect way to start any Brisbane adventure. The views across the Brisbane River and CBD skyline help me gain my bearings for the weekend of cycling ahead.

A GOOD S TOR Y

BRIDGE OF GOODWIL L I cross the Goodwill Bridge and cycle through the City Botanic Gardens, then continue cycling downriver beneath the iconic Story Bridge.

Crossing the Story Bridge is one of the great bike rides in the city. Brisbane life revolves around the river and you can see people running, wandering or even kayaking their way along the water.

L UC Y

starts on a breakfast high and ends at the Brisbane Powerhouse.

f r id ay

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GE T HIGH ON HIS TOR Y City Hall also has one of Australia’s oldest hand-operated lifts. I’ve been riding it to the top of the clock tower since I was a kid and still get a kick out of it. Pick up a (free) ticket to ride at the Museum.

E XPL ORE THE CIT Y WITH A L OC A L Even though I live here, I still love the free Brisbane Greeter tours (brisbanegreeters.com.au), where a volunteer shows you around the city. Book online two weeks in advance for tours on subjects ranging from street art to scientific stories, foodie adventures and more.

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BRISB A NE ’S MUS T-SEE MUSEUM If you want to get to know the people and the city, head to the Museum of Brisbane (Brisbane City Hall, 64 Adelaide Street, Brisbane; museumofbrisbane.com.au) at City Hall. Don’t miss the free behind-the-scenes tour of this historic building, which includes access to areas not usually open to the public.

DESTINATION BRISBANE

WAT T ’S UP The day ends sipping a refreshing and well-earned drink at the Brisbane Powerhouse's WATT Bar (Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington Street, New Farm; brisbanepowerhouse.org). There’s plenty of outdoor seating, all of it overlooking the Brisbane River.

OFF TO NE W FA RM It’s a great feeling to ride along the Riverwalk, an 870-metre shared bikeway/walkway connecting Brisbane CBD to the New Farm precinct. I feel like I’m riding on water and wave to a passing CityCat ferry.

PA RK LIFE I continue riding along the river, passing mangroves and shady streets before arriving at stunning New Farm Park (Brunswick Street, New Farm; newfarmpark.com.au). I park my bike here and head off to smell the roses.

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TIANA

goes to a museum, an arcade and a French bistro.

V ENTURE INTO THE NE THER WORL D

CHECK IN TO S AGE HOTEL Located on trendy James Street, Sage Hotel (70 James Street, Fortitude Valley; snhotels.com.au) partners with local artists, providores and boutiques to provide guests with a tangible connection to the city. It’s funky, fun, sophisticated and surrounded by great shopping.

Before dinner, there’s time for a drink and some finger-flippin’ fun at Netherworld (186 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley; netherworldarcade.com), an arcade gaming bar with machines from the 70s to today. Pinball costs $1 per play, board games and consoles are free and the all-ages crowd is friendly.

FRENCH FL AIR I walk from Netherworld to Madame Rouge (11b/100 McLachlan Street, Fortitude Valley; madamerougebistro.com.au), a sexy French bistro serving classic dishes like steak frites and slow-cooked duck with du puy lentils. It’s my favourite “date night” restaurant and offers a virtual trip to Paris without the jet lag.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

S TAYIN’ A LIV E At this open-air gallery, I learn all about three boys who grew up here on the Redcliffe Peninsula during the 1960s. They went on to become famous musicians known as the Bee Gees, and Bee Gees Way celebrates their amazing career.

GR A BBING A NE W BIK E There are so many bike tracks winding across Brisbane that it’s difficult to choose which ones to explore. Brisbane City Council has 150 CityCycle (citycycle.com.au) public bike hire stations located across town, making cycling a convenient way to enjoy the River City.

PIER PRESSURE Redcliffe is a bayside town located 25km north of Brisbane. A stroll along the pier is an inspiring start to my day cycling by the sea. My breakfast breathes in the salty air at Reef Point Cafe (75 Redcliffe Parade, Redcliffe; reefpointcafe.com.au), which has views across to Moreton Island and great baked scones.

L UC Y

is back on the bike visiting galleries, the Bee Gees and a shipwreck.

S AT UR D AY

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S TEP B ACK IN TIME

COFFEE A ND HIS TOR Y I’m spending today in Paddington, the working-class suburb where I grew up. These days it’s filled with funky boutiques, bars and cafes housed in historic buildings. Kettle & Tin (kettleandtin.com.au) was once a worker’s cottage and is my favourite spot for coffee.

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Housed in a heritage-listed 1920s theatre, Paddington Antique Centre (167 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington; paddingtonantiquecentre. com.au) has over 50 dealers selling everything from jewellery to cameras. If you look up, you can see the Plaza Theatre’s original features, such as gilded balconies and scroll-work declaring the theatre’s name.

PERFEC T PRESCRIP TION You wouldn’t know it now, but Anouk Cafe (212 Given Terrace, Paddington; anoukcafe.com) used to be an old-fashioned chemist, filled with the smell of camphor and stocked with myriad cure-alls. There’s a line out the door for Sunday breakfast, but lunch here is equally good and much less crowded.

DESTINATION BRISBANE

JE T T Y RIDE

GE T WRECK ED B AY CIT Y ROL L ER Moreton Bay Cycleway (briscycle.com/moretonbay-cycleway) is a stunning bike track that follows the coastline for 26km. I’m thankful for this gentle, flat bike track passing beaches and parklands on one side with waves lapping on the other.

Time to visit the Gayundah Wreck. I cycle right down to this relic from the past. The HMQS Gayundah was wrecked on the Redcliffe Peninsula in 1958, and these days it protects the shoreline from erosion.

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I cycle right out to the end of Woody Point Jetty and stop in at The Belvedere Hotel (Woodcliffe Crescent & Oxley Avenue, Woody Point; belvederehotel.com.au). Known locally as “The Bel”, this is the perfect spot for an afternoon snack before returning to the CBD.

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TIANA

steps back in time, goes shopping and sees some live music.

JUS T A JUMP TO THE L EF T Y ’S

BROW SING L ATROBE TERR ACE Whether you’re searching for trendy homewares, antiques, one-off fashions or a colourful necklace, you’re sure to find it somewhere on Paddington’s main street. Start at the Paddington Antique Centre and work your way towards the city.

S TEL L A R SE A FOOD

Music lovers young and old hang out at this quirky live entertainment venue, which features different bands every night. Red velvet drapes, vintage chandeliers, American dude food and a retro popcorn machine make Lefty’s (leftysoldtimemusichall.com) truly unique.

Gambaro Seafood Restaurant (33 Caxton Street, Brisbane; gambaro.com.au) has been dishing up some of the city’s best seafood since the 1950s. It’s far more up-market these days, but you can still order a plate of fish and chips or a classic seafood platter.

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WEEKEND WARRIORS

G A L L ER Y TIME

SOUTHERN E XPOSURE

The Gallery of Modern Art (Stanley Place, South Brisbane; qagoma.qld.gov.au) sits on the riverbank, so I ride up-river to GOMA where I enjoy the latest exhibition, Sugar Spin (until April 17). This sweet exhibition celebrates Queensland as the sugar capital of Australia. Downstairs, the River Cafe is an excellent spot for lunch.

I’m drawn back to the Brisbane River, beginning at Streets Beach in South Bank, where I enjoy a swim overlooking the Brisbane skyline.

HIS TORIC CROSSING Cycling across the award-winning Kurilpa Bridge, which was once the main crossing point for the local Turrbal people, I pause at a lookout in the middle of the span – an ideal location to take in the city sights.

L UC Y

takes a swim, checks out some art and has a Sunday beverage.

S UND AY

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FREE FERR Y RIDE When it was announced that Brisbane’s traditional wooden ferries were being scrapped, locals were so outraged that some were reconditioned and put into service as free City Hopper ferries. I enjoy a scenic ride to South Bank for lunch.

TOWER OF POWER It takes less than 30 minutes to walk to New Farm Park and Jan Powers Farmers Markets (janpowersfarmersmarkets.com.au), which are held here every Saturday from 6am. We buy coffee, steamed dumplings and doughnuts injected with gooey Nutella for brunch.

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A L L THE CL A SSIC S We catch a CityCat ferry from New Farm Park to Customs House (399 Queen Street, Brisbane; customshouse.com.au), a grand colonnaded building with an impressive copper dome, to see a classical music concert. These free concerts take place every month or so, usually on a Sunday.

DESTINATION BRISBANE

A F TERNOON RIDE Stretching 5km along the Brisbane River's north shore, the Bicentennial Bikeway (briscycle.com/bicentennial-bikeway) is another fantastic flat bikeway, so I take off and explore more of the city.

END OF THE ROA D MUSIC A L CROSSING My ride passes beneath a number of bridges, including The Go Between Bridge, which was named after the influential Brissie band The Go-Betweens. Original band member Robert Forster opened the bridge in 2010.

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I finally park my bike and finish off with a Sunday afternoon beverage at the historic Regatta Hotel (543 Coronation Drive, Toowong; regattahotel.com.au). From here, it’s easy to catch the CityCat back to the city centre.

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TIANA

heads to market, eats some art and goes to a free gig.

LIV E A ND KICKING

GENER A L INFORM ATION

A R T ON A PL ATE The Gallery of Modern Art (Stanley Place, South Brisbane; qagoma.qld.gov.au) is widely regarded as one of the world’s most exciting galleries, but not many people know it also has an acclaimed twohatted restaurant. Dishes are an Insta-worthy feast for the eyes and stomach.

General Douglas MacArthur commandeered the grand AMP insurance building in Brisbane for his World War II headquarters. It’s now home to the MacArthur Museum (MacArthur Chambers, 201 Edward Street, Brisbane; mmb.org.au) where, among other things, you can sit at General MacArthur’s desk.

The Brisbane Powerhouse, once a coal-fired power station, is now an arts centre. I finish my day listening to some of Brisbane’s best indie bands at a free Sunday afternoon Livespark session (brisbanepowerhouse.org).

FANCY AN ADVENTURE? If you want to be one of our Weekend Warriors, get in touch.

tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au

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In travel, we can get obsessed with the new and shiny, the recently opened and recently refurbished – but in this story, we celebrate the venerable, the old and the long-lasting. These are the hotels, pubs, restaurants and fun parks that are still around after decades – and for good reason, writes Ricky French.

here used to be an area near the wharfs in Cairns called the Barbary Coast, where the old pubs sloshed beer over the cracked footpaths and sailors and workers would mingle with travellers and dance to rock bands till the early hours. It was rough and colourful and cheap and run down and not at all in keeping with the direction Cairns was going, so of course it had to go. Today, nothing remains of the Barbary Coast; in its place are new pubs, new hotels, some of which are very fine establishments,

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but none of which have the character and appeal of the past. It’s a similar story all over Australia, where development has swept out the old and outdated, consigning good old-fashioned establishments to quaint relics. Look closely, though, and you can find enduring businesses; places that hold happy memories for people everywhere and refuse to bow to gaudy progress. They stand resolutely while fashions change and the world flashes by, knowing they’re in for the long haul. Knowing they’ve got something right.

OLD SKOOL

MARIOS CAFE MELBOURNE The refusal to practise elitism could be behind this Fitzroy institution, which has been serving good-old-fashioned Italian coffee and simple, honest fare on Brunswick Street since 1986. While most places would kill to have the likes of Jerry Seinfeld and his entourage call in for lunch, Seinfeld couldn’t book a table in 1998 during the Melbourne leg of an Australian tour. The reason? Marios doesn’t do bookings, no matter how famous you are. Run by the two Marios – Mario Maccarone and Mario De Pasquale – the cafe held its 30th birthday party last year, and as a present to loyal customers reinstated 1986’s prices to the entire menu. (Don’t get too excited, it was for one day only). While other cafes pop up and just as quickly pop down, Marios and its white linen tablecloths has endured by keeping things simple and never compromising its values. 303 Brunswick Stre et, Fitzroy; marioscafe.com.au

MARIOS CAFE HAS STAYED WHILE FASHIONS HAVE COME AND GONE, RELYING ON GOOD FOOD AND GREAT SERVICE

FUNFIELDS, WHITTLESEA VICTORIA Funfields is the kind of place that (probably unfairly) provokes an “is that place still going?” kind of comment whenever it gets mentioned. But still going it is, thanks in part to the water-based theme park’s continual upgrading of its attractions. Stagnancy can kill a theme park, but Funfields is committed to adding rides, most of which have strange, unnerving names, such as the ProSlide Kraken Racer – a waterslide that sends you hurtling along at 60kmh. John Verga from Funfields says they’re still proud of one of their stalwart attractions: the stately, stainless steel toboggan. Its constant and reassuring presence from the road as you drive past Whittlesea on Melbourne’s northern outskirts is a reminder that some things never change. “It was the first ride to be built here, 30 years ago,” John says, “and it’s still extremely popular.” 2365 Plenty Road, Whittlesea; funfields.com.au ê

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THE COCK ‘N’ BULL CAIRNS Cairns gets a bit of a bollocking in the intro for being too flippant with history, but that doesn’t mean it’s devoid of well-loved institutions. The Cock ‘n’ Bull is one such place. A staple of tall fishing tales and huge plates of pub grub, this American-style diner is part pub, part restaurant and big-part shrine to big-game fishing. It has been around since 1988, which qualifies it as geriatric in this part of the world. You can marvel at the casts of improbably big marlin strung up on the walls, and if you’re lucky tell-it-like-it-is owner Graham (Jono) Johnson might sidle up to your table and give you tips about reeling in the big one. There’s no room for uptight people here and the oldschool Queensland vibe is so thick you can smell it on your clothes when you leave. Get amongst it. 6 Grove Street, Cairns North; cocknbull.net.au

THE TOTE MELBOURNE

THE TOTE HAS KEPT ROCKING THANKS TO A GRASSROOTS CAMPAIGN TO SAVE MELBOURNE’S LIVE MUSIC

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Possibly Australia’s most enduring, dirty rock ‘n’ roll venue, the Tote Hotel on Collingwood’s Johnson Street is notable for rising from the dead seven years ago. The self-proclaimed (although you won’t find much argument) “Home of ROCK” began in 1980, but the building dates to the mid-19th century and was known as the Ivanhoe Hotel for most of its life. When the Tote’s owners announced in 2010 that they couldn’t afford to keep running the venue, a “last gig” was held, featuring Melbourne band The Drones, a lot of beers and a lot of tears. It led to a grassroots campaign to save live music from draconian licensing laws, and it worked a treat: a short time later new owners stepped in and opened the doors to the beer-soaked carpet once again. Today a proud spray-painted message greets punters at the door: “This Is The Tote. Never Say Die!” 67-71 Johnston Street, Collingwood; thetotehotel.com

OLD SKOOL THE CUCKOO RESTAURANT, YARRA RANGES VICTORIA This quirky, German-styled smorgasbord family restaurant is famous for having the world’s largest free-standing operational cuckoo clock, which unfortunately doesn’t actually operate. The reason? “The ticks won’t tock as the weights would knock you out!” says events manager Rosemary Marchington, cryptically. That said, dodging hefty pendulums wouldn’t actually be out of place in this curious restaurant in Victoria’s Dandenong Ranges. A Bavarian floor show, cow bells, wood carvings, traditionally dressed staff pouring beer and topping up the bistro with another dumping of mash potato; there’s no debating you get a lot of stimulation from one visit. The Cuckoo Restaurant was founded by Willi and Karin Koeppen in 1958. In 1976, Willi disappeared, his Kombi van found parked at the restaurant with the doors wide open. He was never seen again. Years later, Mark “Chopper” Read reported having a conversation in jail with underworld figure Alex Tsakmakis, who allegedly confessed to Willi’s murder. 508 Mount Dandenong Tourist Road, Olinda; cuckoorestaurant.com.au

DALY WATERS PUB NORTHERN TERRITORY The Australian outback has a proud tradition of watering holes that have lived through drought and flood, providing some much-needed routine and stability to the tough and unpredictable life in the bush. Providing beer never hurts, either. The Daly Waters Pub, ideally situated just off the Stuart Highway between Darwin and Alice Springs, is well-placed to serve both locals and tourists, leading to a melting pot of cultures at the bar. Built in 1930 to serve workers on nearby cattle stations (often to the annoyance of the station owners), the pub prides itself on having a sense of humour, and encourages patrons to leave something behind when they go (check out the bewildering collection of hanging bras). According to Robyne Webster from the pub, the place is like an “old lady who requires constant love, care and massaging.” Best-selling travel writer Bill Bryson dropped in once and stayed all night, waking next morning to a throbbing headache and a faint memory from the night before of agreeing to a house swap with a family from Korea. Robyne says while their signature dish is the beef and burra, the best thing they serve up nightly is memories. 16 Stuart Street, Daly Waters; dalywaterspub.com

“The Tote’s ‘last gig’, with the Drones, saw a lot of beers and a lot of tears”

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Lipsticks so healthy you could almost eat themâ&#x201E;¢

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HOPE AND ANCHOR HOTEL HOBART It’s no surprise that Australia’s second oldest capital city, which has arrived late to the craft beer and focaccia party, would have a few enduring attractions. And by attractions we mean, of course, pubs. The Hope and Anchor, located smack in the centre of Hobart, lays claim to being Australia’s oldest continuously operating pub. It’s a regular haunt for yachties and fishermen, has maritime memorabilia adorning the walls and decor of the 19th-century building, completing the no-nonsense charm of a pub of yesteryear. The menu keeps things simple, with none of the “gastropub” gloop that has infiltrated elsewhere into Hobart. It’s a place that knows where it is and knows where it came from. 65 Macquarie Street, Hobart; hopeandanchor.com.au

THE BUSH INN, NEW NORFOLK TASMANIA

IMAGES GETTY IMAGES

“The Hope and Anchor in the centre of Hobart claims to be Australia’s oldest pub”

Hold the presses! War has erupted, and shot glasses have been fired! Forget everything you just read about the Hope and Anchor being Australia’s oldest continuously operating pub – or so say the owners of The Bush Inn in New Norfolk, 45 minutes up the road. The argument depends on how you define “continuous”. Did the doors have to be open the entire time, or could you close for weeks – or years – if you still held the licence? The Bush Inn opened in 1815, so let’s just say it’s really, really old. Not surprisingly, the pub has a few tales to tell. Upstairs is reputedly haunted, with the ghost of a small girl keeping eternal watch over Room 6. The atmosphere can’t be beat (especially if you’re lucky enough to encounter the rowdy locals), and neither can the view from the balcony, which overlooks the Derwent River. If it’s the “real” Tasmania that you’re after, then you’ve come to the right place. 49-51 Montagu Street, New Norfolk ê

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vivid sydney SHINES 26 may â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 17 JUNE 2017

FOR 23 NIGHTS THE CITY OF SYDNEY SHINES BRIGHT WITH A CELEBRATION OF LIGHT, MUSIC AND IDEAS.

The multi-award winning winter festival attracted over 2.3 million people in 2016, cementing its position as the largest event of its kind in the world. In 2017, Vivid Sydney will return with an inspiring new program of amazing light art, cutting-edge music performances, creative talks, workshops and showcases. The creative heart of Sydney will be illuminated from 6pm to 11pm every night with the Vivid Light program of projections, light sculptures and installations. Each one is designed to engage

the senses and emotions with interactive and immersive experiences. For melodic vibes, Vivid Music will again expand musical horizons with a celebration of breakthrough performers and the best in current and future music leaders. 2017 will see over 250 music events held in venues across Sydney. Meanwhile, Vivid Ideas is Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most anticipated global forum for ingenuity and innovation and in 2017 will feature a carefully curated program of over 200 events.

For further information go to vividsydney.com

Proudly owned, managed and produced by

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HOTEL ROTTNEST, ROTTNEST ISLAND PERTH From one end of the country to the other, and from one breed of pub to another, the Hotel Rottnest is perhaps the antithesis of the Bush Inn. It lays down like a beach towel on the shores of Rottnest Island, so close to the sea you can feel the salt spray on face. It used to have much better name: the Quokka Arms Hotel, but even with a boring name there’s much to love besides the sublime setting. Built in 1864 as a summer residence for the Governor, it was converted to holiday accommodation in 1919 when the Governor had a hissy fit about not being allowed to extend the grounds and stormed back to the mainland. It opened as a hotel and pub in 1953 and has been a fixture of sandgropers’ long weekends ever since. These days, the Hotel Rottnest is modern and stylish, with just the whiff of pretension to mix with the salty air, but the original features of the old Governor’s residence are still there, giving it a timeless, colonial charm. 1 Bedford Avenue, Rottnest Island; hotelrottnest.com.au

BREAKFAST CREEK HOTEL BRISBANE Immortalised in the Midnight Oil song, Dreamworld, the Breakfast Creek Hotel in Brisbane has survived the impending doom predicted in the 1987 song, getting heritage listed in 1992. Giving a proudly Queensland middle finger to the bulldozing of history that has afflicted so many other places, the hotel has sat stately on the banks of the Brisbane River since 1889. On at least one occasion, it actually sat in the Brisbane River as flood waters inundated the two-storey, French renaissancestyled brick building. According to a reputable source (a local taxi driver), explorer John Oxley used to call in here for breakfast before heading off inland. Wherever you’re heading, it’s a beautiful place in which to guzzle XXXX and have a balmy Brisbane breakfast or parma – although it does lose a couple of points for committing the unforgivable sin of putting the chips under the chicken. Tut tut. 2 Kingsford Smith Drive, Breakfast Creek; breakfastcreekhotel.com ê

IT’S NOT A DREAM... DESPITE M I D N I G H T O I L’ S D I R E PREDICTIONS, THE BREAKFAST CREEK HOTEL IS ALIVE AND WELL

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ADVENTURE WORLD WESTERN AUSTRALIA

OLD TOWN The Rocks might be Sydney’s oldest district, however restaurants and bars come and go – but Fish at the Rocks has been around for nearly 30 years.

Every hot city in the world needs a half decent water theme park, and Perth’s Adventure World is at least three-quarters decent and probably more. It doesn’t get a lot of press in the east, but it has been a hit with Western Australian families since it first opened in 1982. You can find the usual assortment of rides that promise wild abandon and thrills, most that involve climbing a tower then plummeting inside a plastic tunnel twisted like an intestine before being shot out into cold water. But there are also rides for little kids and mums (cue angry letters to the editor from adrenaline junkie mums). Beloved by locals who take advantage of the season pass, Adventure World is also a great stop for those travelling overseas from Perth and who have a day or two to spare. Hire a cabana near the Kahuna Falls and you’ve got your set-up for the day. 351 Progress Drive, Bibra Lake; adventureworld.net.au

“In an area where restaurants come and go like the tide, Fish at the Rocks is still there” 74

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FISH AT THE ROCKS SYDNEY The turnover of bars and restaurants in Sydney can be so frequent that when an establishment like Fish at the Rocks nears 30 years old, it easily qualifies for a pension card. This eatery has been a drawcard of The Rocks since 1988 – a time when mullets were both fish and a fashionable hairstyle. After that long, you’d assume they know how to fry a good fish (and they do), but it’s the seafood platters and the Moreton Bay bugs that really stand out. And have you ever noticed that restaurants that hang round tend to do the simple things well? Like soft butter massaged into warm, fresh rolls, and waiters that recommend good wine and are attentive without being overbearing. This Sydney shack gets all those ticks. In an a city where restaurants come and go like the tide, Fish at the Rocks is always busy and, more importantly, always there. 29 Kent Street, Sydney; fishattherocks.com.au

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to all these destinations; tigerair.com.au

Game on for Gold Coast With the Commonwealth Games coming to town in 2018, the Gold Coast is getting ready for its close-up. Matt Shea heads to the glamorous GC and finds that it’s well and truly time to shine.

PHOTOS TOURISM QLD

renton Rickard is in a helicopter, high above the Gold Coast. Hunched in the front seat, he’s expertly juggling figures while pointing out sights. See there, an aquatic development. Here, a hockey centre. There, an upgraded stadium. Rickard’s long frame is better known for gliding through the pool, breaststroking its way to world championships and Olympic medals. Now, though, the 33-year-old is a manager of sports services for the 2018 Gold Coast Commonwealth Games. And right this very moment, he’s distracted. “See that,” he says. “We used to train by swimming across to the far bank.” Rickard is pointing down at Tallebudgera Creek. Initially, it doesn’t look like much – particularly if you spot the paddleboarders in the crystalline shallows behind the headland. But where Rickard is pointing, where the waterway widens to meet the sea, it isn’t really a creek. It’s more a foaming torrent subject to the whims of the Pacific Ocean. ê

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GOLD COAST

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a la carte

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ASPEN SNOWMASS CONFERENCE 3 – 10 JANUARY 2018 20 Hours of CPD live lectures 6th Ski Conference

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sushi bar

tapas

GOLD COAST

QT HOTEL IS ONE OF THE MOST FASHIONABLE ADDRESSES ON THE NEW GOLD COAST

Stays QT GOLD COAST A game changer on the Coast, QT moved into the former digs of the Gold Coast International – the city’s first five-star hotel – and turned it into a 1950s-inspired beach resort. The hotel has a happy engagement with its history, but this is still a very modern experience, from the crisp, bright rooms right down to Stingray Bar – a buzzy night-time haunt for guests and locals alike. 7 Staghorn Avenue, Surfers Paradise; qthotelsandresorts.com

WATERMARK HOTEL & SPA GOLD COAST A handsome hotel in its own right, Watermark offers crisp, modern rooms just a block away from the surf and close to both Cavill Avenue and G:link stops. But it’s the other on-site virtues that seal the deal, which include a spa and an eatery to suit every occasion. Clifford’s Grill & Lounge is the pick, perfect for group grazing or hearty family dinners. 3032 Surfers Paradise Boulevard, Surfers Paradise; watermarkhotelgoldcoast.com.au

“The international tourists are returning and Surfers Paradise is buzzing”

Legend has it that iconic swim coach Laurie Lawrence would train his charges here by making them swim against the surging incoming tide. That was well before Rickard’s time, but his own challenge sounds gnarly enough. “We had to do it a few times when the tide was really running,” he says. “You set off and end up missing your target by a good 50 metres. It was intimidating – just when you see open water moving in that kind of way. It’s a bit tougher than sitting in the pool.” We’re on an aerial tour of Games venues up and down the 56km strip from Beenleigh to the Queensland-New South Wales border. Everything we see – stadia, infrastructure and private developments, all completed or nearing completion – suggests a city well on the way to hosting a major sports event. But with just this one story, Rickard has short-handed the subtext of this whole flight: sport is embedded in the cultural fabric of the Gold Coast. Of course, the Coast is often associated with other things: widescreen tourism, conspicuous glamour and flippant displays of wealth. Rickard’s story of swimming Tallebudgera Creek comes from the late-90s, at the beginning of the Coast’s last major boom. That surge in activity continued well into the new millennium: tourism numbers shot ê up along with ever taller high-rises, and new

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GOLD COAST

residents flocked to the strip for the flashiest of sea changes. Then, the GFC. The city was knocked on its backside. The steady stream of visitors slowed, a subsequently high Australian dollar only doubling down on the misery. There was a time around the turn of the decade – not long before the Gold Coast won the Commonwealth bid – that the stupor looked terminal. People weren’t coming to the Coast. Now, though, we’ve been beckoned back to celebrate the one-year countdown to the Games, and what we find is a city very much back in business. The international tourists are returning, and if you walk from Surfers Paradise down to Broadbeach, it’s buzzing, the G:link – the Coast’s handsome new light rail service – delivering people to fresh thrills such as iFLY (3084 Surfers Paradise Boulevard, 1300 366 364), an indoor skydiving attraction, or Jetpack Adventures (Waterways Drive, 0474 538 722) on the Nerang River.

YOU CAN SPOT BUMBLES CAFE BY THE BEES, AND THE OWNER’S CAR... WHICH IS ALSO COVERED IN BEES

Cafes BUMBLES CAFE

Rickard has returned too, living on the Coast since 2009. During that time, he has watched a different kind of change come over the city – one where the GFC swept away tired operators and dusty developments, forcing the region to look inward for growth. “Everyone kind of realised, ‘Hang on. We still have what might be half a million residents,’” he says. “These locals need somewhere to go and eat, somewhere to socialise, somewhere that adds ê to a sense of community.”

CAFES ON THE COAST There are a host of new joints popping up, from Ze Pickle (above left) and Bumbles (above right) to the Paddock Bakery (below).

If you need a breakfast break away from the hoi polloi then Bumbles is a great option – a sleepy cafe on the Nerang River that over the last 12 years has become a favourite on the Coast. There are lunch and high-tea menus, but breakfast is the pick. Grab a seat outside and watch the Queenslanders go about their early morning exercise. 21 River Drive, Surfers Paradise; bumblescafe.com

PADDOCK BAKERY Not so much a bakery but a Gold Coast-come-lately institution, Paddock has since 2014 been peddling fresh breads, doughnuts and croissants out of a beautiful, window-lined weatherboard house. Grab and go if you want, but it’s best to take a seat in the treeshaded front yard and enjoy some of the best (and most reasonably priced) breakfasts in town. 20 Hibiscus Haven, Miami; paddockbakery.com

BAREFOOT BARISTA Wander off Palm Beach, slip on your flip-flops and head a block west to find Barefoot Barista. This terrific little cafe has existed for over six years now, a short, efficient menu of wholesome breakfasts and lunches backed by expertly made Gabriel espresso. Where to sit? Out back in the greeneryfestooned courtyard is best. Shop 5/10 Palm Beach Avenue, Palm Beach; barefootbarista.com.au

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GOLD COAST

Drinks BALTER BREWING COMPANY

The result is new wave of independent bars, cafes, boutiques and restaurants up and down the Coast. There’s the busy precinct of Burleigh Heads, hidden in the arcades and lanes surrounding James Street. There are the clutches of impossibly cool speakeasies and casual eateries dotted along the Gold Coast Highway in Mermaid Beach. Or, a little further afield, the gnatty brewpubs of Balter (14 Traders Way, balter.com.au), Burleigh Brewing Company (2 Ern Harley Drive; burleighbrewing.com.au) and Black Hops Brewing (15 Gardenia Grove; blackhops.com.au) – each a destination unto itself. ê

Best known as the brewery project of pro surfers Joel Parkinson, Josh Kerr, Bede Durbidge and Mick Fanning, Balter’s secret weapon is in fact brewer Scott Hargrave. A key player in Stone & Wood’s roaring success earlier this decade, now Hargrave has turned his hand to developing a new range of phenomenal beers for Balter – and the brewery’s handsome Currumbin Waters digs are where you want to be drinking them. This is a destination unto itself, particularly on Friday nights when a food truck is in residence. 14 Traders Way, Currumbin; balter.com.au

THE CAMBUS WALL ACE

brewing up a storm Burleigh Brewing Company is making some great local beers, and their brewery is a destination in itself.

Named after a late 19th century shipwreck on Stradbroke Island, The Cambus Wallace is a classy wood-lined bolthole that over the last four years has helped light a fire under the once sleepy Nobby Beach. Befitting the choice of name, there’s plenty of whisky and rum on the menu, but also a solid rotation of beer taps. Best of all, at such a well-loved venue you’ll soon feel like one of the locals. 4/2237 Gold Coast Highway, Nobby Beach; thecambuswallace.com.au

ALOHA BAR AND DINING Over a year after it supposedly “popped up” Aloha is still here, winning the hearts of both locals and visitors who manage to stumble upon its back-street Broadbeach premises. A juiced-up tiki bar, you can eat at Aloha, but it’s the drinks that capture the imagination – particularly the potent cocktails, which come in vividly crafted vessels such as ceramic tikis and Darth Vader helmets. The venue itself, full of paraphernalia-lined nooks and crannies, provides the rest of the charm. 18 Main Place, Broadbeach; exoticpetspresents.com.au

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Restaurants ZE PICKLE Arguably the Coast’s best burger joint, Ze Pickle’s efforts at meat, cheese and bread are impressive – try the Chee-Ze if you need convincing – but it’s the rotating beer taps and darkened atmosphere of effortless cool at this Burleigh Heads bunker that make it a memorable experience. If you can’t make it down to Burleigh, look out for the mobile version, Ze Quickle, a Chevy delivery truck the team bought at a Los Angeles police auction (seriously). 1/37 Connor Street, Burleigh Heads; zepickle.com

S O C I A L E AT I N G H O U S E Established in 2013 to address what was seen at the time as a lack of eateries in Broadbeach, Social Eating House has since become a favourite occasion restaurant on the Coast. This is about as far away from GC glitz as you can imagine – all caged lamps, brick walls and darkened wood and leather. But it’s the shared plates of food you’re here for: delicate sashimi and veal carpaccio sit alongside battered whiting and boneless lamb shoulder. Pinpoint service does the rest. 3 Oracle Boulevard, Broadbeach; socialeatinghouse.com.au

RICK SHORES It was at the start of last year that Rick Shores installed itself as the shining jewel on Burleigh’s beachfront. Since then, it has become a Gold Coast go-to – a beachy take on Brisbane big brother Longtime’s classy Thai food. You can literally step off the beach here and sit down at a table. It’s relatively heavy on the hip pocket, but think of it as an occasion and there will be no regrets. 3/43 Goodwin Terrace, Burleigh Heads; rickshores.com.au

“They’re serving locals who like their food, like their coffee, like their wine,” Rickard says. “There are a lot of these places that tourists miss but are fantastic. “Hopefully, that new-found sense of community has in turn made it more attractive for visitors. Because it’s not just about Surfers Paradise; there are so many different places and beautiful spots that cater for a wider variety of visitors.” The sense of renewal is now being bolstered by the Commonwealth Games. There was a sense of irony when the Gold Coast won the bid in 2011 – the forgotten city winning the forgotten games. But five-and-a-half years on and just 12 months away from the opening ceremony,

A MONSTER BURGER FROM ZE PICKLE IS NE ARLY HIGH ENOUGH FOR AN ATHLETE TO JUMP OVER

that has very much changed. As our helicopter swoops over venue after venue, Rickard pointing out routes for cycle races and marathons – beachside skyscrapers, crystalline seas and vertiginous hinterland by turns in the background – you realise it’s the perfect games, for the perfect city, at the perfect time. “The Gold Coast is a relatively young city still discovering itself,” Rickard says. “This is the right scale of event. It has been a catalyst for change. There’s now this understanding in the community, and you see it spreading throughout South East Queensland. People are saying, ‘Wow, this is special. This is pretty big.’”

t ig e r a ir f l ie s to Brisbane from eight destinations; tigerair.com.au

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HOLIDAY MUST-DO Wildlife galore, shows to amaze, closer experiences, segways for safaris, high-ropes to dare, & fun to be had!

Established in 1947, Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary was one of the Gold Coast’s ﬁrst wildlife tourism parks. As a not-for-proﬁt, funds are re-invested back into the Sanctuary and one of Australia’s largest wildlife hospitals.

28 Tomewin Street, Currumbin, 4223.

ROUTE MAP

Where to next? Tigerair Australia serves 13 destinations right across the country

tigerair bases Route starts 1 June 2017 Route starts 22 June 2017

darwin

cairns townsville whitsunday coast

brisbane gold coast coffs harbour perth

sydney canberra (act)

adelaide

FOR AN UP-TO-THE-MINUTE LIST OF OUR DESTINATIONS, VISIT TIGERAIR.COM.AU

melbourne (tullamarine) hobart

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TIGERAIR NEWS

Tigerair is heading to Townsville New route is first daylight low-cost route to connect Melbourne and the North Queensland city

igerair Australia has announced a new route between Melbourne and Townsville, providing four weekly return direct low-cost services between the two cities. From Thursday, June 22, Tigerair will operate weekly return flights between the Victorian capital and North Queensland destination on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays. Tigerair Australia Head of Communications, Vanessa Regan, said the announcement is significant for Townsville and Queensland as the airline continues to respond to consumer demand for services to and from the region. “The sunshine state is an integral part of our network with over 50 per cent of all Tigerair domestic services already touching Queensland,” she said. “That

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number is set to increase by almost 40,000 additional visitor seats through Townsville Airport annually. Providing the only direct low-cost daytime services on the route, customers will have more daylight hours at their destination when they arrive. These new flights are sure to be warmly embraced by Victorians looking to chase some sun and visit one of Townsville’s many attractions, such as Magnetic Island or Castle Hill. This new service is supported by the Queensland Government’s Attracting Aviation Investment Fund through Tourism

and Events Queensland in partnership with the Townsville City Council and Queensland Airports Limited. Townsville Airport Operating Officer, Kevin Gill, said the route is the start of a major push to develop the city’s tourism sector. “The schedule is well-timed for the leisure traveller and opens up more connectivity for direct business on this existing route,” he said. “It’s great news for the city’s tourism industry, and for Victorians who can come to experience some fun in the sun and our northern hospitality.”

“The sunshine state is an integral part of our network with over 50 per cent of all Tigerair services already touching Queensland”

TIGERAIR NEWS

G O OD NE W S F OR T IG E R A IR Government rates airline as most on-time low-cost carrier for second year running The Australian Government has released their annual report into domestic airline on-time performance for 2016, and it’s good news for Tigerair. For the second year running, Tigerair had the lowest cancellation rate of all major domestic airlines. Tigerair cancelled 0.9 per cent of all flights in 2016, which was more than twice as reliable as their key competitor in relation to cancellations. The low-cost carrier was also Australia’s most punctual low-cost carrier for the second successive year with 83.1 per cent of all services departing on-time. This was 9.8 per cent ahead of the key competitor in the same statistic. Tigerair was also Australia’s most on-time low cost carrier in 2015. Virgin Australia, Tigerair’s parent company, was once again the most on-time domestic carrier in Australia. Virgin achieved the highest on-time figures for both arrivals (86.7 per cent) and departures (88.4 per cent) in 2016.

ABDs come to Adelaide Automatic Bag Drops now available at all major Tigerair ports

Tigerair boosts Queensland tourism Tigerair launches new low-cost services between Brisbane and Whitsundays Tigerair Australia has commenced new direct services between Brisbane and the Whitsunday Coast, providing a great-value, low-cost travel option for air travel between two of Queensland’s most popular destinations. Tigerair will operate four weekly return services between Brisbane and the Whitsunday Coast. The inaugural service between the two destinations departed Brisbane Airport at 7:30am and arrived at Whitsunday Coast Airport at 9:10am on March 23. Tigerair Australia Head of Communications, Vanessa Regan, said there has never been a better time to fly Tigerair and the airline is confident the new services will be warmly embraced by consumers. “Our great-value fares stimulate and grow the air travel market in Australia,” she said. “It’s a win-win for everyone – consumers, tourism and the economy – and we are proud to

consistently deliver on our promise of providing affordable and reliable services, coupled with great customer service.” Andrew Brodie, Brisbane Airport Corporation (BAC) General Manager Aviation and Retail Management, said, “It is nearly seven years since Tigerair first came to Brisbane, launching services to three destinations and firmly heralding its presence in the market with its renowned low fares on more than half a million seats on offer in its first year. “Tigerair offers nearly 1.3 million seats annually between Brisbane and five national destinations, while making an enormous investment in our city and state by permanently basing three aircraft here. “Tigerair’s commitment to Brisbane and Queensland is clear, and it’s travellers who are reaping the benefits with the additional choice, flexibility and competitive pricing Tigerair brings to the market.”

Self-serve kiosks and Automated Bag Drops (ABDs) are now available at all major Tigerair ports, with the recent implementation of self-service units and ABDs in Adelaide. Tigerair’s check-in area at Adelaide Airport now contains 10 self-serve kiosks, two ABDs and two exception desks. Self-serve facilities are now available in Melbourne, Adelaide, Sydney, Brisbane and the Gold Coast, making travelling with Tigerair increasingly seamless for customers.

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Markets

Weekends

When the week is over, check out some of these great places on the Tigerair network.

Rozelle Collectors Markets

The historic location and waterside position of this weekend market (pictured here) makes it a must-do when you visit the west. There are street performers, amazing food and a host of stalls selling everything from opals to leather goods. Perth fremantlemarkets.com.au

Shoppers on the hunt for a vintage bargain rummage through the second-hand stalls at this flea market east of the city. Other markets move with the trends and have modern art or on-trend food, but Rozelle just has trash and treasure â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and bundles of atmosphere. Sydney rozellecollectorsmarket.com.au

South Melbourne Markets

Mindil Beach Sunset Markets

This market is packed at weekends with people hunting for fresh pasta, top-quality seafood or killer coffee. South Melbourne market is also home to the famous South Melbourne Dim Sims, the original deep-fried wonton treat. Melbourne southmelbournemarket.com.au

This beachside Top End market starts back up again at the end of April with its amazing array of Asian food â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sri Lankan, Indian, Thai. Sunday evenings, the whole of Darwin brings a blanket, grabs some takeaway and watches the sun set over the Arafura Sea. Darwin mindil.com.au

IMAGE GARY YIM

BY CONNOR MCLEOD

Fremantle Market

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Visit Kenzan Japanese restaurant for some of the freshest sushi and sashimi dishes in Melbourne, along with Ã la carte dishes and surprising specials. The restaurant has been in its current CBD location for 35 years, and is the most awarded Japanese restaurant in Melbourne. Enjoy an authentic Japanese dining experience.

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W E E K E N D S Family

Whale Watching Sydney

Dreamworld

Whale Watching Sydney has it all: fast, modern boats, spacious viewing decks, an on-board photographer, informative commentary by a knowledgeable crew. The company has over 25 years’ experience, with the highest success rate for whale sightings in town. Sydney whalewatchingsydney.com.au

Load up on Lego at Australia’s biggest Lego store, go on a safari through Tiger Island, brave Australia’s largest thrill rides range, explore Indigenous culture and meet native wildlife at Corroboree, and splash out at Dreamworld’s WhiteWater World water park. Gold Coast dreamworld.com.au

BridgeClimb Don’t just look at the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge – conquer it with a BridgeClimb. You decide on the time of day, whether you want a walk at dawn, sunset, day or night, then strap on a harness and get climbing. Sydney bridgeclimb.com

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W E E K E N D S

THE SPOT

IM A GE GR EG B A R T L E Y/ V ISIT V IC T ORI A

Federation Square

elbourne’s central gathering point at weekends, Federation Square is the spot to meet friends getting off the trains at Flinders Street, or just a spot to get away from the busy city streets. The square has permanent fixtures like the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI), which celebrates the world of cinema; the Ian Potter Centre, a gallery that is part

of the National Gallery of Victoria; and it’s also the step-off point for Yarra River Cruises. But there’s also a host of pop-up activity at weekends, such as food truck takeovers, outdoor cinema and tai chi lessons. It’s easy to take the central square for granted, as most Melburnians see it every time they come to town. But Federation Square always has something going on, including festivals like the Light in Winter, which

takes place over the winter solstice, or fiestas celebrating the city’s diverse mix of cultures and ethnicities. There’s also a range of food and beverage, whether you’re grabbing a drink by the water at Pilgrim Bar, surveying the view at Transit Rooftop Bar, trying modern Australian dining at Taxi Kitchen, or just getting a caffeine fix from In A Rush Espresso. Check out the square this weekend. fedsquare.com

Brunch Grub Food Van Getting your breakfast or lunch from the silver Airstream trailer – it dates back to 1965 – in the whimsical garden at Grub, in Fitzroy, makes everything taste better. Pick from fry-ups, fresh juices or some of the baked wonders on display under glass inside. Come afternoon, cold beer is the order of the day Melbourne facebook.com/grubfoodvan

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The Grounds of Alexandria So popular at weekends you can expect to queue, this sprawling cafe-cum-bakery-cum-coffeeroaster-cum-kitchen-garden was a pioneer in the now-so-trendyit-hurts area of Alexandria. Stay for the fresh baked delights with homemade jam and take a loaf of sourdough to go. Sydney thegrounds.com.au

King Arthur

Mangrove Jacks

Fortitude Valley wasn’t always somewhere you went for breakfast, even if you were out there until dawn. But the arrival of King Arthur, with its all-day breakfast including Chai Chia Pudding, a steak sandwich and simple avocado on grain, means many people are now starting their day in the valley, not ending it. Brisbane kingarthurcafe.com

This cute cafe on the Coffs Creek isn’t only a top spot for some weekend brunch, but you can also hire a canoe and work off your plate of fried eggs by exploring the tranquil water that runs past the cafe. And if you return the canoe in the afternoon, you might have just earned yourself a cold beer on the verandah. Coffs Harbour mangrovejackscafe

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Art

White Rabbit Gallery

Heide Museum of Modern Art

TarraWarra Museum of Art

This Chippendale art gallery has one of the largest collections of Chinese art in the world and displays it in the unique gallery spaces. The gallery is constantly updating and changing its displays, and there’s also the attached Teahouse (pictured here), where you can take a break from the art with a plate of handmade dumplings. Sydney whiterabbitcollection.org

Once the home of art patrons John and Sunday Reed, this mid-century building and nearby sculpture walk are perfect for the weekend. Opening May 27 is Making History: the Boyd Family, which takes a look at the legacy of one of art’s most famous families from patriarch Merric Boyd to the works of his son Arthur Boyd. Melbourne heide.com.au

If you like art with a side of wine tasting, head an hour out of Melbourne to the Yarra Valley’s TarraWarra Museum of Art. Housed in a modernist building set amongst the vineyards, this gallery focuses on modern works. Opening May 27 is Discovering Dobell, an intimate look at 20th century Australian artist William Dobell and his oil paintings. Melbourne twma.com.au

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the tale end

Travel is all about stories Please send your travel photos to us at tigertales@citrusmedia.com.au or #tigerairaustralia MELBOURNE, VICTORIA

STR ATHBOGIE R ANGES, VICTORIA We came across an echidna while hiking in the Strathbogie Ranges about an hour north of Melbourne. He (or she, I’m no expert) then curled up in a ball and began to burrow into the dirt. FLEUR BANES

We went to White Night, when the city is open all night and full of artworks and exhibitions. This is the Royal Exhibition Building in the city’s north that had some amazing images projected onto the facade, including skulls and a giant owl that swept down towards you.

DASHIELL LUC

2 MORNINGTON PENINSUL A , VICTORIA Montalto Vineyard & Olive Grove (33 Red Hill-Shoreham Road, Red Hill South; montalto.com.au) has a sculpture park as part of its attractions, and you can wander along it and check out the works – every year they have a competition and the winner stays on the grounds as part of the permanent collection. I really liked this tractor that looks like it’s made of blue marshmallow. PAUL CHAI

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