SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2013
WINE (p22) Touring Niagara and Prince Edward County BEER (p26) Stephen Beaumont attempts to match lobster and beer …and succeeds!
JOIN THE PARTY! HOW ROSE AND SONS
MAKES EATIN’ FUN (P8) OYSTERS (p12)
How to eat. Where to eat. What to eat. When to eat (now!)
CHEF Q&A (p10)
What’s up with Matt Blondin?
Now online at
citybites.ca
PLUS! SAVOUR STRATFORD + DECONSTRUCTING DINNER + BOURBONS + SYRAH/SHIRAZ
Experience The Taste of
ONTARIO’S SPECIALTY CHEESE Ask For These Ontario Produced Specialty Cheeses Made From 100% Canadian Milk At Your Local Specialty Cheese Shop & Where You Dine. Niagara Gold St-Albert 7 Year Aged Cheddar Comfort Cream
Evanturel
ST. ALBERT, ONTARIO
St-Albert Cheese Co-operative Inc., enjoys worldwide renown for exceptional quality cheeses, which we have made for over 116 years. Since 1894, five generations of dairy farmers and craftsmen have worked to maintain St-Albert’s long tradition of quality. The products are all naturally aged. The unique taste of St-Albert cheese is internationally known, whether it be aged or mild cheddars or their famous curds.
Niagara Gold is a semi-soft, washed rind cheese fashioned after recipes developed by the Trappist Monks of the Loire Valley. This is a cheese with nutty, earthy overtones and mellow, buttery flavours. This luscious cheese is delicately mild and sweet when young and gains pungency and piquant qualities with age. The rind may be eaten or JORDAN STATION, ONTARIO trimmed depending on your taste.
THORNLOE, ONTARIO
Evanturel is a supple, bloomy rind cheese with a striking streak of vegetable ash running through it. The ash lends an earthy tone to this beautifully rich, mushroomy flavoured cheese with a fresh milk finish. The ash actually draws some
7 Year Aged Cheddar has a very pleasant stronger aroma and more slightly acidic note than a younger 5 year aged cheddar. This cheese has a drier more crumbly texture, given its low moisture content. When eating, you will get slightly acidic note that will develop into wonderful fruity milk note characteristics as it warms in your mouth. It will be slightly buttery and exhibit crystallized granules. Comfort Cream is a camembert-style soft, white bloomy rind cheese with a silky, creamy, golden interior. Rich flavours of fresh truffles prevail with an intense, buttery palate and a long, tangy finish. This delicate and luscious artisanal cheese is hand salted, hand turned and hand wrapped.
of the water out of the cheese, making it very creamy. Evanturel is an artisan cheese - handmade in very small batches.
Enjoy The Great Taste Of Specialty Cheeses Made From 100% Canadian Milk At These Restaurants: Canoe, Toronto 416 364 0054 www.oliverbonacini.com/Canoe.aspx Nota Bene, Toronto 416 977 6400 www.notabenerestaurant.com Royal York, Toronto 416 368 2511 www.fairmont.com/royalyork One, Toronto 416 961 9600 www.onehazelton.com
Black Hoof, Toronto 416 551 8854 Cava, Toronto 416 979 9918 www.cavarestaurant.ca Bymark, Toronto 416 777 1144 www.bymark.ca Drake, Toronto 416 531 5042 www.thedrakehotel.ca
Inn on the Twenty, Lincoln 905 562 7313 www.innonthetwenty.com Vineland Estates, Vineland 905 562 7088 www.vineland.com Cowbell, Toronto 416 849 1095 www.cowbellrestaurant.ca Harbord Room, Toronto 416 962 8989 www.theharbordroom.com
FROM THE EDITOR
Food writers and critics abound these days, but we often find it difficult to separate the pros from the hobbyists. (Though the crap spelling, poor grammar and egregious facts are a giveaway. Get a Larousse, wannabe!) At CityBites, we like well-executed restaurant reviews. But we are not about absolute judgment. We are about helping our readers find the best experiences possible. To that end, we’ve come up with a Restaurant Report Card. It uses letter grades and short commentary to paint a picture of a moment in time. These are not mean to be definitive. We might hit a place for a media preview or, later, with a bunch of drunken friends. Or our moms (also drunk). We think readers can benefit from the insights gleaned from these various circumstances. You, the reader, also deserve to know who paid the bill. So we tell you. We’ll hit the previews and cocktail shenanigans, but we’ll make sure you know about it so you can come to your Please have a read of our reports on p. 6 and p. 9. Weigh in with your comments at citybites.ca. We look forward to discussing! Dick Snyder, Editor • dick@citybites.ca city bites magazine
No. 48
CAMP RATIONS Michael Städtlander’s Camp Home project at Eigensinn Farm.
Deliciously online at
citybites.ca
The Features 16 Feasting on Fall Flavours
Tips and tricks from the city’s drink and
food experts.
21
Savouring Stratford Our top pick of events at this year’s Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival (Sept. 20-22).
own conclusions.
@citybites
contents September/October 2013
22 Wine Country Tour Guide
It’s harvest time in Niagara and Prince Edward County, Ontario’s premier wine regions. So get out there and taste! Here’s what you need to know.
The Restaurant Pages citybitestoronto
5
Top Pick Eigensinn Farm’s 20th anniversary extravaganza.
6
Report Card Bar Isabel gets As and Bs.
Editor Dick Snyder/dick@citybites.ca Art Director Craig Sinclair/craig@citybites.ca
Managing Editor Natalie Goldenberg-Fife/natalie@citybites.ca
7
Wine Editor John Szabo Director of Vinous Affairs Zoltan Szabo
Crumbs News for eaters and drinkers.
8
Intern Sarah Wright Contributors Stephen Beaumont, Dan Donovan, Konrad Ejbich,
Out & About Having fun at Rose and Sons.
9
Report Card Carmen gets straight As!
10 Chef Q&A Matt Blondin. 12 Oysters A primer on bivalves. 13 TV Deconstructing Dinner. 14 Head to Head Syrah and Shiraz.
Nick Green, Arlene Hazzan Green, Beverely Hotchkiss, Zoltan Szabo, Sarah Wright Photography and illustration Randy Cameron, Steve Kean, Rick O’Brien, Ross Spencer, Dick Snyder, Elise von Kulmiz
29 Grow
Publisher Paul Alsop/paul@citybites.ca Sr. Account Manager Wendy Lyall Gardner/wendy@citybites.ca Email info@citybites.ca or visit www.citybites.ca
Arlene Hazzan Green helps you harvest.
30 Fishmongering
31
Advertising Inquiries sales@citybites.ca PHOTO: MARGARET MULLIGAN
The Experts
Dan Donovan on local freshwater fish.
32 The Ej
Konrad Ejbich on Canada’s top wine lover.
33 Libations
Stephen Beaumont
tastes good bourbon.
Szabo on Wine John Szabo turns wine to gold.
The End Made possible with the support of the Ontario Media Development Corporation
34 One Last Bite
Tanya Kelly’s chef apron.
City Bites Media Inc., 26 Dalhousie St. Suite 200, Toronto, ON, M5B 2A5, 647-827-1705. City Bites is published six times a year by City Bites Media Inc.
Cover photo by Rick O’Brien.
September/October 2013
3
www.FrancisCoppola Winery.com Š 2013 Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville, Sonoma County, CA All trademarks used herein are exclusive property of the Coppola Companies.
LCBO# 708305, $19.95 Release Date — September 14th
RESTAURANTS // PLACES
By Natalie Goldenberg-Fife | @NatalieGF + @CityBites
Home coming MICHAEL STADTLÄNDER’S CAMP HOME PROJECT MARKS 20 YEARS OF EIGENSINN FARM story of the food would be as important as its preparation. Foodies went berserk, and in 2002 U.K.-based Restaurant magazine named Eigensinn one of the top destinations in the world. The Governor General’s Award— winning chef has earned a devout following among top Canadian chefs who revere him for his activism and moralistic approach to food. His apprentices have become some of Ontario’s most progressive culinary thinkers—Aaron Bear Robe of Keriwa Café and Paul Harber of Ravine Vineyard are just two such progressive disciples. Camp Home may be Stadtländer’s take on summer camp in Canada, but it feels like a real-life Neverland. Pigs, peacocks and other livestock roam freely. Littered across the sprawling 100 acres are sunflower fields, sculptures that talk, and empty wine bottles arranged as striking visual art. As you walk towards Camp Home, red-lettered signs dangle from trees: “Rush hour.” “Pain.” “Bullshit.” Our meal was cooked over an open fire, and everything dazzled the senses. We started with a brilliant chanterelle mushroom purée soup with oxtail and raisin ravioli, then enjoyed a smoked sturgeon tripe ravigote soup with a side of caviar toast that was in originality. For the main, melt-in-themouth pork came with a side of potato-beet gnocchi. For dessert, a wild-blueberry Sazeracinfused dessert adorned a plate from the
ENTOURAGE The faces of Eigensinn Farm.
French-emperor Napoleon’s collection. (Stadtländer says he is the only one who touches these plates. He doesn’t want an apprentice to have a seizure if one was broken.) What’s next post Camp Home? Stadtländer plans to take a hiking trip through Austria in the fall for a little down time and then pour his activism and artistry into his next big idea: a feature film, which he hopes to work on with great Canuck actor-director Sarah Polley (she was married on his farm): “It’s a story about a GMO engineer and an organic gardener who fall in love.” All would be shot on his property. For anyone looking for a risky but worthwhile Camp Home investment, kicked off in mid-August Stadtländer thinks and runs until September 21 (or perhaps later). The he needs about six 10-course affair starts at million to pull it 4 p.m. and will accommodate off. Who knows? 16 guests each day. Cost is $375 per person, plus tax. Maybe there’s an BYOB. To reserve, call 519Oscar in the man’s 922-3128 or email Nobuyo at wagen@bmts.com future? CB
PHOTOS: MARGARET MULLIGAN
It’s not everyday you get invited for a 10-course meal at the legendary Eigensinn Farm. (If it is, then you probably have deep pockets and a large belly.) So when the opportunity arose to hit a media showcase of Chef Michael Stadtländer’s newest project, Camp Home, I fist-pumped and cleared my schedule. This month-long dining experience commemorates the 20 years that Eigensinn Farm has been the vanguard of local food in Ontario. This would be my first trip to a culinary destination that I always envisioned as a food-lover’s version of Burning Man. Perhaps I’m stating the obvious here, but eating at Eigensinn Farm is basically synonymous with having the best meal of one’s life. A 2009 Globe and Mail review called dining at Eigensinn “a rite a passage among Canadian foodies.” The man behind the epic farm-to-table dining experience emigrated from Germany to Canada in the 1980s. He cooked alongside Jamie Kennedy at Scaramouche for two years. From 1988-1990 he had his own place called Nekah—the Ojibway word for “wild goose”— in Toronto’s financial district. Out for a drive one day, he spotted a farm property for sale in the Collingwood area. With the guidance and administrative aptitude of his Japanese-born wife Nobuyo (also a talented pastry chef), he would create a high-end dining destination in the country. Here, the
SKYLINE The idyllic structures of Camp Home.
EMPEROR’S DESSERT Sweet treats atop Napoleon’s plate.
September/October 2013
5
RESTAURANTS // REPORT CARD
By Natalie Goldenberg-Fife | @NatalieGF + @CityBites
Bar Isabel: Overall grade OVERVIEW
MENU
Mid-to high-priced. Must-nosh-on fried chicken with buttermilk sauce ($13) and whole grilled octopus ($59). Late night platters are stacked with bones, buttery crab legs, charcut, cheeses and odd bits. The Basque cake and sherry cream ($8.50; add foie gras for $22) induces eye-closing
6
CityBites
Bar Isabel
797 College St. 416-532-2222 barisabel.com @BarIsabel797
THE CARD
A+
FOOD
Full-bodied flavours, unique.
A+
DRINK
Different wine and beer list. Mike Webster (ex Drake) mans up the scrumptious cocktail list.
B
SERVICE
Sometimes so busy and loud that waiters don’t dish much tableside lovin’. Oysters delivered before olives on one occasion. A wine sent back gets replaced half way through the main course.
A+
MENU
Minimalist. Makes you want to try everything.
B
DETAILS
Given often long wait times for food (because its always jammed), complimentary bread/nibblies would be welcome.
A
BAR
Sexy and shiny with oodles of bottles to gaze at.
THE OCCASION
A
BATHROOMS
Suits the theme. Wooden doors are fresh and clean. Nice tile.
This report card is based on a two-part visit. A midnight birthday celebration and a spontaneous night out. Bills were paid by author.
B A+
VALUE
Slightly over-priced just because it can be.
EXTRAS
Birthday shots sent out on first visit!
ecstasy. Medium-sized wine and beer list, with rare brews like Trou Du Diable, Dulsis Succubus, Imperial Sour Saison, the latter running $49. (Yes $49 for beer. Ballsy!) VIBE
Hipster haven! Tattooed rock-star folk, well-dressed people old and young, and “playboy” chefs like Cory Vitiello all stop by for late-night drinks and eats. If you get a seat, you’re part of the cool club. But a three-hour wait (not unheard of) may leave you deflated.
PHOTO: ELISE VON KULMIZ
Parked at the corner of College and Shaw and causing serious lineups out the door. The hand-built wooden interior and beautifully tiled restaurant/bar is, says owner/chef Grant Van Gameren, modeled after a figurative sassy Spanish woman named Isabel. The feel is strongly Spanish/Euro, and un-statusquo Toronto. Chef and front-of-house manager Guy Rawlings are currently riding high: Bar Isabel is the hottest place to go for food, drinks and prettypeople watching. Serving dinner and drinks till late (6 p.m. to 2 a.m.).
A/B+
RESTAURANTS // CRUMBS ...
By Nick Green | @_NicholasGee
Plans have leaked (to us!) about a new spot coming from the owners of Ascari Enoteca and Table 17. The neighbourhood bar, currently
(765 Dundas St. W., barmontauk.com, @MontaukBar)
...
Word is that people are sick of the cronut. Tori’s Bakeshop has
named hi-lo, will be opening this fall, taking over the PicNic at Home
found a way to fatten us all up with their new Cinnasant. That’s a
Bakery space in Leslieville (753 Queen St. E.; follow @Table17 for updates)
croissant stuffed with a cinnamon bun. All vegan, of course
...
The Food Dudes dropped us a line to announce plans for a new
(2188 Queen St. E., torisbakeshop.ca, @torisbakeshop)
restaurant. Stay tuned for more about Tabula Rasa, expected to
...
open in the Harbord Village in spring 2014 @TheFoodDudesTO
redefine Mexican food in the city with Fonda Lola, which has found a
What’s the 411 on 416 Snack Bar? Chef Rory McGouran is off to
home in the old Lafayette Bistro space. Queen West is about to get
...
Andres Marquez, formerly of Milagro Cantina, is seeking to
#CityBites for all your edible news other endeavors, leaving snack-master Mark Ota as the new chef de cuisine (181 Bathurst St., 416snackbar.wordpress.com, @416SnackBar)
...
spicier (942 Queen St. W., fondalola.ca, @FondaLola)
...
Good news: The Big Crow will not be flying south this winter.
The Chase and The Chase Fish and Oyster are making a
Owner/chef Anthony Rose says they’re stocking up: “Blankets, lamps,
splash in the Dineen Building. Hit up TCFO for ground-floor upscale
tarps, beer and bbq.” Also in the works is a catering arm of Rose and
casual, or TC for elegant dining and a rooftop patio (10 Temperance St., thechasetoronto.com, @TheChaseTO)
...
(176 Dupont St., roseandsonsbigcrow.com, @Roseandsons)
For those in the know, Côte de Boeuf hosts private dinners for up
...
to 14 guests, catered via sister operation Union. No big deal, just
Lot St. Just like the city, it’s a mix of rustic and homey with a diverse
five-course tasting menus with wine pairings (130 Ossington Ave., cdbossington.com, @CDBOssington)
...
Sons. “Hopefully to be ready for Thanksgiving with fried turkeys.” The history of Toronto just became cooler with the opening of
menu and lots of style (685 Queen St. W., lotst.ca, @LotStreet)
...
BarChef Operations Manager Brent VanderVeen has spilled one
Can I get ramen? This city has oodles of noodles, but the new Ryus
of their new fall cocktails for our appraisal. The Antique features
Noodle House is standing out (33 Baldwin St., ryusnoodlebar.com)
leather, vanilla brandy, tobacco bon bons, cacao and cherry dust
...
...
There’s some new blood at Skin+Bones. Chef Kim Hernandez
(472 Queen St. W., barcheftoronto.com, @BarChefToronto)
is taking the helm as executive chef, so expect clear, ingredient-
...
focused flavors that pair splendidly with wine (980 Queen St. E.,
out of the gutter and keep an eye out for their soon-to-be released
skinandbonesto.com, @SkinAndBonesTO)
line of meats, mustards and pickles for grocery stores and farmer’s
Sandwich kingpin Dominic Amaral has the nicest buns in Bloordale.
His new spot, Brock Sandwiches, is gourmet-meats-comfort-food
Caplansky’s Deli wants to show you their pickle. Get your mind
markets (356 College St., caplanskysdeli.com, @Caplansky)
...
The team at Vaticano have gone south to a new location.
goodness (1260 Bloor St. W., brocksandwich.ca, @BrockSandwich)
Destigno is bringing Queen West authentic Italian food and wine
There’s no business like show business! The Saint is partnering
at a moderate price along with the finest tiramisu in the city (741
with The Lower Ossington Theatre, offering a specially priced,
Queen St. W., destingo.ca, @DestingoTO)
...
reservation only, pre- or post-show three-course prix fixe for ticket holders (227 Ossington Ave., thesainttavern.com, @TheSaintTavern)
...
Kekou Gelato is Toronto’s newest spot to fulfill your Asian-style
...
gelato cravings (13 Baldwin St., kekou.ca, @KekouGelato) The Libertine is speakeasy-chic in DuWest. You don’t need to
know a password, just look for the new sign-less snack bar and
...
cocktail lounge (1307 Dundas St. W., thelibertinespeak.com)
...
Paulette’s Original Donuts and Chicken has flown the coup,
becoming wholesale only. Delica Kitchen is taking over Paulette’s Leslieville location (913 Queen St. E., delicakitchen.ca, @DelicaKitchen)
...
The crew at Cool City Oyster are busy winterizing their patio
so you can get shucked year round (99 Sudbury St., coolcityoyster.com, @CoolCityOyster).
Pop goes the taco! El Pop-Up is now serving up Mexican hipster realness, complete with cocktail pairings, Fridays at Montauk
Send us your news, gossip, innuendo and hearsay! info@citybites.ca.
Discover the magic of our island community. Meet Eastern Ontario’s best chefs, beer, spirits and cider masters, winemakers, artists and musicians. Come to Prince Edward County and see why TASTE community grown is the region’s most anticipated culinary event of 2013.
Friday Sept. 27 to Sunday Sept. 29, 2013 Visit tastecommunitygrown.com for more information.
September/October 2013
7
RESTAURANTS // OUT & ABOUT
By Natalie Goldenberg-Fife | @NatalieGF
Happy meals ROSE AND SONS SERVES UP DELICIOUS, FUN FOOD THAT KEEPS THE PEOPLE COMING BACK The Story
An anecdote on the Rose and Sons website sums up the cheeky dining experience you can expect at this north Annex restaurant. “A perfectly designed dish” had been presented to the head chef by an eager sous. The head chef examined the “carefully placed sauces” and “detailed design.” Then said: “Shake the plate. Shake it, break it, serve the next 1000 like that and don’t fuck it up.” And thus you get the gist. Chef-owner Anthony Rose (ex Drake) and business partner Rob Wilder have created a no-fuss eating zone that serves up greasy breakfasts, lunches and dinners that are affordable and a hell of a good time.
SON OF A… Anthony Rose works the front.
The Space
The 28-seater is a Jewish-style diner reinvention of the People’s Food, the 24-hour Greek greasy spoon that closed last spring after 45 years. “We’ve kept the grease part and all the cooking equipment,” says Rose. “We just refurbished using the same booths and bar stool setup.” The tiny booths mean couples are sometimes forced to get cozy with other twosomes, separated only by glasses and a water pitcher. Bar stools offer perfect perching for full views of the griddle-work, and a chance to make chat with the super-skilled bartenders. Out back is The Big Crow, Rose and Wilder’s picnic and patio style BBQ joint that opened in July.
The Scene On a good day, Rose says he serves about 150 customers of all age groups and walks of life: families young and old, well-dressed artists, stiletto-clad Rosedale ladies and groups of boys and girls hitting the town. Regulars of People’s find familiarity at Rose and Sons. “We create a simple, good atmosphere with comfort food that keeps people coming back,” he says. Rose himself is also bit of a fixture as he swaggers like a pendulum from restaurant to restaurant: checking on staff, serving customers and being his charming (and comedic) self. I watched an elderly man, having finished his meal, playfully grab Rose’s shoulder on his way out the door and say: “That was fun.”
FRIED CHICKEN Stabbed and served.
We create a simple, good atmosphere with comfort food that keeps people coming back
The Drinks There are plenty drinks worth a guzzle, both of alcoholic (mint julep, $11) and non-alcoholic (wild blueberry milkshake, $6). Cocktails designed from a variety of the city’s best bartenders like Churchill’s Quintin Buckley and Momofuku’s Colin Coulis wash the calorie-packed dishes down. On a small list, the priciest glass of wine is $14; the top bottle is $60. “The only Ontario wine we deal with is Norman Hardie… and a little bit of everything else,” says Rose. Think big juicy vintages from Spain, New Zealand, California and Washington—stuff that can handle the conundrum of tastes on the menu. Rose’s affection for Hardie—and vice versa—is evident in the specially made Rose and Sons Rosé ($12/glass, $52/bottle). The starring role on the drinks list is whiskey (over 40 bourbons, scotches, ryes from $9 to $15). Eating at Rose and Sons is either a hangover cure (special fried rice with egg, pork belly, ginger, peanuts, china town hot sauce, $14) or a hangover in the making (caramel milkshake with a shot of bourbon, $13). The $50 “let-us-cook-foryou” option serves up a no-holds-barred Rose and Sons experience. Anywhere between five to seven courses come your way. As the dishes come out, Rose and Sons you get the feeling that Rose and head chef Chris Sanderson 176 Dupont St. have a satirical take on the whole food thing. The fried 647-748-3287 roseandsons.ca chicken ($22) with sour pickle brine, warm mushrooms and potato salad is served with a steak knife jammed through the chicken. For dessert, a wild blueberry bread pudding ($8) comes doused in maple syrup atop what looks like a banana. Turns out it’s a hot dog wiener, and pretty delicious too. This fall, Rose plans to tweak the menu a bit. “We want to bring back that Greek identity from People’s Food and add a little more Jewish as well,” says Rose. CB
BEER BUDDAH Holy ales on tap.
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
The Food
PEOPLE GET READY The fun’s about to begin.
8
CityBites
RESTAURANTS // REPORT CARD
By Dick Snyder
Carmen: Overall grade
THE CARD
OVERVIEW
Neatly situated on Queen West near Trinity Bellwoods. Beautifully and meticulously decorated with Spanish tiles, hand-crafted furnishings, and bold colours that perk you right up. Welcoming, generous service from staff who know their stuff. Owners Veronica Laudes and Luis Valenzuela, who also have Torito in Kensington. Serving lunch, dinner and weekend brunch.
PHOTO: ELISE VON KULMIZ
MENU
Mid-priced, with best paella deals in town ($30 and up for sharing). Traditional tapas such as shisito peppers in tomato sauce ($10) and patatas bravas ($7) are lipsmacking good. Modern tapas include crunchy/juicy fried green tomatoes ($7) and succulent Catalan pork sausage with white bean ($12). Superb brunch of eggtomato-potato huevos toreros ($10) and fresh-squeezed, hand-strained orange
A+/A
Carmen
922 Queen St. W. 416-535-0404 carmensayz.com @carmensayz
A+
FOOD
Tasty, flawless execution. Irresistible.
A
DRINK
Good wine, beer, cocktail choices in reasonable price points. Fine sangria.
A
SERVICE
Waiters who ask questions and listen to your answers? Check. Splendid!
juice. Small, smart wine list; thoughtful cocktails, and good sangria (red and white).
A+
MENU
Easy to read, clear. Tempting.
VIBE
A+
DÉCOR
Meticulous, quality furnishings, artfully deployed. Comfortable seats and tables. Lighting is low and flattering.
A
DETAILS
Plates are pretty; empty glasses bussed. Sincere concern for customer enjoyment, though slightly less so when super-busy.
A
BAR
Nice scene, small. Friendly bartender who takes time to explain ingredients.
A+
BATHROOMS
Beautiful. Carefully decorated and clean.
A
VALUE
Well priced for food. Very well priced for ambiance, service, dĂŠcor.
A+
EXTRAS
Fantastic espresso: rich, creamy.
Fun-seeking downtowners from WQW and Trinity come her for cheap wine and snacks and drink in the party. Can get loud, but still enjoyable. Friendly staff want you to have a good time. On weekends, the place is packed, so adjust expectations accordingly. THE OCCASION
This report card based on brunch visit with small kids and dinner blow out with party of six. Bill was paid by the author.
September/October 2013
9
RESTAURANTS // CHEF Q&A
By Sarah Wright | @HungryGirlTO
Blondin on Blondin THE EX-MOMOFUKU DAISHO CHEF SETS THE RECORD STRAIGHT Anyone who’s invested in the ins and outs of Toronto’s increasingly dynamic food scene has come across Sudbury-native Matt Blondin. Or at least heard his name. But with no kitchen to call home—he left Momofuku - earlier this summer—the question Daisho that’s on everyone’s lips is what project Blondin will take a bite out of next. So we tracked him down (which wasn’t hard, the man is on Twitter after all) and asked him. Your career over the last few years is harder to follow than my favourite soap opera,
Food media has gone crazy trying to figure
I’ve read a few interviews where you’ve
out what you’re going to do next, is that
been labelled a “bad boy” in the kitchen.
a blessing or a curse? Really? Strange. I
Do you think the proverbial shoe fits? A bad boy? I’m not sure. Ha ha. I never really considered myself anything of the type. I’ve grown up a lot… a couple years ago when that “bad boy” title was penned, I was… hmmm… a little hot headed. You mature over time… you learn to read and understand people and you evolve into a better person.
think being in the public eye is definitely a good thing, especially when the matters reported are accurate and relevant. The truth is something is coming soon… I have aligned myself with some incredibly talented individuals. When the time is right, and we feel we are ready, a restaurant will be born. In the interim, I’m taking this time to focus on other matters at hand and helping friends in the community with their projects.
which certainly attracts foodie media. How do you deal with this attention? How so? I feel sometimes the “industry” can be sensationalized, it’s not always about the work a chef is doing but rather about where he’s doing it or why he’s not doing it anymore (ahem, Acadia and Momofuku).
It’s a well-known fact that chefs move around a lot. I’m still young (sorta), and I’m not the type to settle down just yet. I want to take in as much as I can, and work with as many talented individuals (industry and non) as possible before signing off on something a little more personal. What was your time like at Momofuku? I am
truly grateful for the time I spent at Momofuku. - and its It’s thanks to restaurants like Daisho entire staff, that I was able to grow, mature and evolve as a chef.
I want to take in as much as I can, and work with as many talented individuals as possible.
What’s your cooking style? I don’t really
have a cooking style per se. I simply like to cook what I like and how I like to do it. It’s a personal thing. Ultimate late-night craving? I’ve recently moved into an old factory loft. I ripped out the existing kitchen and currently don’t even have a stove, kitchen sink or counters. People don’t believe it. I used to cook at home when I’d get off work, but now due to these circumstances I often find myself crushing Kawartha Lakes ice cream. So good but so bad.
Speaking of food media trying to figure out
With no restaurant and no kitchen, where
what’s next, any truth to the rumours you’re
are we supposed to eat your food? I’m
opening a place in Leslieville? Really? Who
actually hosting a dinner series at Origin Liberty starting September 16. For each dinner I’ll host 4-5 chefs from Toronto and out of town. Our first night will see Alex Molitz from Farmhouse Tavern, Will Serre from The Grove, Andrew Wilson formerly of Colborne Lane, and myself.
started that one? No, I can assure you there is no truth to that rumour. I don’t spend much time on the east side. I should, there are a lot of really good restaurants in that area. I really have to go to Bero soon.
SOMETHING’S COOKING Chef Matt Blondin plots his next move.
10
CityBites
I gather a lot of influence from highly skilled chefs like Curtis Duffy (Chicago’s Grace Restaurant), John Shields (an American chef, food writer and host of a PBS cooking show), Christopher Kostow (Napa Valley’s The Restaurant at Meadowood) and Josh Skenes (San Francisco’s Saison). I am always amazed by the dedication and passion of individuals like these who have done so well and continue to operate at such a high level of excellence. Aiming to one day be as skilled and disciplined as them motivates me and pushes me to be a better cook, a better teacher and an all around better person. CB
PHOTO: STEVE KEAN
What are your greatest influences?
We need help! SALES We’re looking for qualified ad reps to sell space in
Toronto’s coolest food mag. Email sales@citybites.ca for info.
CONTENT We’re seeking two interns to work on the
magazine and website. Email info@citybites.ca for details.
crunch time Take a bite out of fall with a farm-to-table getaway in Hamilton Halton Brant. Savour Autumn Flavours Downtown Hamilton Localicious, September 20 – October 6 St. George Applefest, September 21 – 22 • Battlefield House Apple Festival, September 28 A Taste of Historic Georgetown, October 5 • Harvest Halton, October 6
For all the delicious details on our harvest celebrations, dining promotions, pick-your-own farms, wineries, breweries and more, visit www.theheartofontario.com September/October 2013
11
OYSTERS
By Sarah Wright
Invasion of the oyster THEY’RE COMING, GET USED TO IT. HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO SURVIVE THE ONSLAUGHT
To get the full oyster experience you have to take the time to chew. world. There are hundreds of varieties of oysters, but strict FDA regulations prohibit the importation of most international oysters into the United States. Which means the renowned Grand Central Oyster Bar in New York may have shuckers skillfully prying 30 types of oysters, it rarely carries any from outside North America. Toronto’s oyster bounty not only includes all five North American species but also beautiful Belon oysters from France and Galway Flats from Ireland. Think all oysters are the same? Think
12
CityBites
AW SHUCKS! A Galway flat awaits the ultimate dispatch.
again! The real excitement of the oyster is the endless variations of this tasty treat. Oysters feed by filtering water through their system. Much like wine, oysters get their essence from their environment or “mer-roir.” “Merroir is the taste of the ocean,” explains Patrick McMurray of Starfish and Ceili Cottage. “It’s a snapshot of the sea. The oyster is open until it gets caught and closes right up. It captures some sea water but mostly the oyster liquor on the inside and it transports it to wherever the oyster lands.” MAKING THE GRADE: BEAUTY AND THE BIVALVE
Oysters are typically classified as choice or standard. Choice is the top grade and indicates a beautiful teardrop shape and a deeply cupped bottom shell, ensuring a full plump oyster. Choice oysters are also easier to shuck, making them ideal for serving on the half shell, where presentation is important. Standard oysters have the same flavour as choice but aren’t as pretty, and their irregular shell shape makes them harder to shuck. You’ll get more bang for your shuck, though amateur shuckers may cry salty tears of frustration.
SIZE MATTERS
OYSTER SCHOOL If you’re an amateur
looking to try your Size is a reflection hand at shucking or a of how long the hospitality professional looking to up your oyster stays in the oyster game, watch water. All species for a new series of are available in classes hosted by sizes ranging from Starfish’s Shucker Paddy at George cocktail to extra Brown. Details on fall large choice. Some sessions available soon. farmers won’t grow Follow @GBCFIRSt. large choice because there is an increased chance of mortality (up to 10 percent of the annual yield). West Coast oysters grow more quickly than their East Coast companions because they have a longer growing season. East Coast oysters hibernate during the icy season.
TAKE IT SLOW
Oyster tasting is a lot like wine tasting (and not your first shot of Tequila on spring break). To get the full oyster experience you have to take the time to chew. Chewing the oyster helps the palate to understand what’s going on. “Close your eyes, hold hands with your friends under the table, chew three times and aerate,” says McMurray. Aerating is key. The oxygen in the air allows the flavours to fully develop. At first you should expect
PHOTO: PATRICK MCMURRAY
Our briny bivalve friends have been around for 25 millions years, and are not going anywhere soon—especially given the plethora of new oyster-eating spots popping up around Toronto. For newcomers to the joys of the sensuous sea, diving into the deep end of oysters can be intimidating. To help you get out of your shell, we present a comprehensive starter kit for aspiring oyster aficionados. You don’t need to be an oyster brainiac to derive full enjoyment from our little sea friends. But a little knowledge helps. “The biggest movement today in oysters is the increased information,” says John Petcoff of Oyster Boy. “People want to know where the oysters come from.” Equally important is the species, for each one has its own flavour profile. There are five species of oyster dominating North American plates: The Pacific Oyster (Crassostrea gigas), the Atlantic Oyster (Crassostrea virginica), the Kumamoto (Crassostrea sikamea), the European Flat (Ostrea edulis) and the Olympia (Ostrea lurida/Ostrea conchaphi). Lucky for us oyster fans, Toronto is not only home to multiple championship shuckers but boasts one of the most comprehensive selection of oysters in the
TV a salty rush—ranging from subtle to bold— then proceeding to a creamy or buttery flavour with a final hint of sweetness. If it’s the texture that doesn’t appeal to you, try a cooked oyster because it will firm up a bit.
to serve up banter and briny treasures in equal proportions, simultaneously carving the knife and explaining the relative virtues of these mighty mollusks. Shucking is also the prelude to eating, so it’s nice to be a part of the process.
STAY OFF THE SAUCE
For a purist approach to slurping, avoid using condiments, at least for the first round. “If you put ketchup on it, which is basically seafood sauce, or hot sauce, it’s just going to taste like salt water and hot sauce,” says Adam Colquhoun of Oyster Boy. To truly get the essence of the sea, leave it naked. “You can have oysters that are growing 10 miles away from each other in different bays that taste totally different. You want that flavour.” DIFFERENT STROKES FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS
Ordering can be intimidating if you’re unfamiliar with oyster types. The two most important choices you’ll make on your way to oyster bliss is size and salt. Squeamish eaters may want to start with a smaller variety that goes down nice and easy. The best way to learn is to order an oyster flight, one of each species. For the novice sampler, never try more than five varieties in a sitting or your palate will develop fatigue. PULL UP A STOOL
If you want to learn about oysters and be a part of the real action, the most coveted seat in the house is always going to be at the bar. A professional will be able
SHELL SHOCK
Don’t throw the shells away just because you got the good stuff. Save the shells of your favourite oysters. When your waiter returns you can ask them to tell you which variety you enjoyed, then order more of the same! You can also keep them as a memento. HAVE A DRINK WITH YOUR ZINC
There are no steadfast rules of what to wash an oyster down with, but a few simple guidelines can help elevate your oyster experience. If you fancy a fine white avoid the big, buttery, oaked blends. Try a Sauvignon Blanc or a Viogner, whose crisp citrus notes will emulate that of the oyster’s good friend, the lemon. Southern Ontario makes great lighter body reds that won’t overpower the subtle nuances of your oyster, including Pinot Noir or Baco Noir, and their softer tannins won’t induce a nasty metallic taste brought on by bigger reds. Like any other facet of life, a bottle of bubbles is never a bad idea. Reach for anything light and effervescent. Beer is also a great match, with roastier malty flavours pairing especially well. And don’t forget sake—there’s a whole world of flavour to be discovered! CB
THE PEARLS OF TORONTO THE CHASE FISH & OYSTER The name pretty much says it all. Great oysters in the centre of downtown from lunchtime to closing. BONUS: A formidable wine list and a staff who knows how to use it. thechasetoronto.com COOL CITY OYSTER YARD Once you enter this urban oasis it’s not hard to see that dining alfresco is how oysters were meant to be enjoyed. BONUS: The only thing that will enhance your oyster experience more than sunset over Toronto’s skyline is their amazing sauces. coolcityoyster.com
JOHN & SONS OYSTER HOUSE Two locations, one uptown serving a more upscale Rosedale crowd and one downtown serving the business crowd. BONUS: Fantastic Caesar. Enough said. johnandsonsoysterhouse.com
RODNEY’S OYSTER HOUSE Rodney’s is Canada’s biggest oyster distributer and they also grow their own in PEI. BONUS: Rodney is a true character, and if you’re lucky he’ll regale you with oyster lore. rodneysoysterhouse.com
OYSTER BOY Adam Colquhoun and John Petcoff have been a seafood staple in Toronto for years. They’ve always managed to stay ahead of the trends, like been cooking while everyone gives it raw. BONUS: If you’re looking to impress your friends, these guys will cater your party. oysterboy.ca
STARFISH If you really want to learn about oysters Patrick McMurray and his team are stupendously knowledgeable. Be warned, if you ask a question these passionate shuckers won’t leave till dawn. BONUS: Only place in town where you can reserve a seat at the beloved bar. starfishoysterbed.com
By Nick Green | @_NicholasGee
Dinner deconstructed NEW TV SERIES EXAMINES A BETTER WAY TO EAT “I was harvesting heirloom tomatoes right before your call,” says Declan O’Driscoll, producer and director of the six-part series Deconstructing Dinner set to air this fall. Catching him on his farm, a rural escape where he keeps bees and grows a plethora of vegetables, it was clear this is a man who practices what he preaches. Known for his producing credit on the James Beard Award-winning documentary, Milk War, O’Driscoll has extensive background in filmmaking and biodynamic farming. It was at a screening of this film in Nelson, B.C., that he met Jon Steinman, creator and host of the radio show and podcast of the same name. A partnership quickly formed. “I think [Deconstructing Dinner] is about how in your own kitchen, you have the power to reconstruct the food system, and benefit the communities we live in,” says O’Driscoll. With the goal of empowering viewers to understand the current food system, he and Steinman provide a glimpse into where our ingredients come from. “It’s really to show how simple it is to create the relationships to sustain a healthy food supply. There’s so much at our fingertips. In each episode we look at the industrial food supply of each ingredient, and then in the second segment we meet someone who raises their own pork, for instance,” says O’Driscoll. The real icing on this (locally sourced, organic) cake is the fresh perspective it takes on the food system: focusing on the producers and breeders, as opposed to the well-worn issues such as GMOs and mandatory labelling. Ultimately, the message is refreshingly hopeful. “In our honey episode you see that it’s simple to connect with Deconstructing a local honey Dinner source. And that’s premiers Sept. 16 on the whole point ichannel by The Seed Network. Check out of the series. To deconstructingdinner.com. show how simple it is to connect with local providers via a farmer’s market or a drive out to the countryside,” he said before leaving the conversation to tend to his own bees. CB September/October 2013
13
RESTAURANTS // HEAD TO HEAD
By Zoltan Szabo | @ZoltanSzabo
Serious Syrah FIVE DISTINCT TAKES ON THE NOBLE GRAPE… AND ONE RINGER SMOKIN’
SILKY
ELEGANT
Medium to full weight and velvety with currants, cracked black pepper, smoke nuances and very good length.
Coming from old vines in Beamsville Bench. Raspberries, white pepper and violet accents intermingle with toasty wood notes. Fresh and silky.
Well rounded, not heavy, rather elegant, with succulent blueberry fruit and spicy floral aroma and flavour composition.
Peninsula Ridge 2010 Syrah Reserve 89 pts Niagara Peninsula | $24.95
peninsularidge.com
Daniel Lenko 2009 Syrah 90 pts Niagara Peninsula | $59.95
Fielding 2010 Syrah 90 pts Niagara Peninsula | $34.95
fieldingwines.com
daniellenko.com
PURE
OLD SCHOOL
BLOCKBUSTER
This is a greatly structured red capitalizing on purity of fruit. It’s full and rich, but not lacking a juicy seam of acidity.
Black and blue fruit with herbal, spicy and the typical “garrigue” trait. Full bodied and really well structured. It will age beneficially.
Grenache is often blended with Syrah, especially in the Southern Rhone Valley. But this is 100% varietal and truly impressive: cassis, chocolate and mint flavoured, ripe and bold, yet firm tannins give it seamless balance.
Two Hands 2011 Lily’s Garden Shiraz 90 pts McLaren Vale | $57.95
bwwines.com
Brunel de la Gardine 2010 Crozes-Hermitage 90 pts Southern Rhone | $22.95
vintages.com
Breca 2010 Old Vines Garnacha 90 pts Calatayud | $19.95
vintages.com
After 35 years of nurturing their land, the Bosc family has learned how to make the most of what their vineyards offer. Soil. Rainfall. Sunshine. Wine is the expression of how all the elements of the vineyard wines come together. celebrate nature’s contribution to making wine. Wine that’s grown just for you.
Earth &Sky
2011 RIESLING $14.95 LCBO #343350
201 0 PINOT NOIR $15.95 LCBO #343368
earthandskywine.com JOIN US ON
CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES
FOLLOW US ON @mbosc Scan the code with your smartphone to learn how music and wine can make a soulful pairing.
14
CityBites
Ontario’s Event of the Year Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival
presented by
Sep tember 20-22, 2013 More than 150 chefs, culinary personalities, farmers, Ontario wineries, craft brewers and food purveyors come together in Stratford to create one of the largest culinary events in Ontario celebrating Globally inspired, Locally grown cuisine. Sip, sample and savour at over 40 engaging chef presentations, talks and tastings. Savour Stratford Opening Night presented by Fanshawe College GE CafĂŠ Chefs Series with Vikram Vij ~ Exclusive 3-hour class and lunch Taste of Ontario Artisan Alley, Saturday ~ Cask and craft beers, VQA wines, Dillon's Small Batch Distillers and artisan cheese tastings by the Dairy Farmers of Ontario Toronto Star Culinary Stage ~ 10 international culinary demonstrations Women in Food Breakfast presented by Chatelaine
A Sunday morning panel discussion at The Church Restaurant Sunday Tasting presented by Scotiabank ~ Seasonal morsels created by 30 local
chefs paired with producers, craft beers and VQA wines at our celebrated afternoon garden party
Roam the market accompanied by FREE music concerts, street performers and culinary fun for the kids. Just 90 minutes west of Toronto.
For more information and to book tickets visit
savourstratford.com @StratfordON @SavourStratford
StratfordON SavourStratford
CHEF TIPS
By Natalie Goldenberg-Fife | @NatalieGF + @CityBites and Sarah Wright | @HungryGirlTO
Feasting on fall f lavours CHEF AND EXPERTS OFFER INSIGHTS ON MAKING AUTUMN THE ULTIMATE EPICUREAN EXPERIENCE Alexandra Feswick Head Chef Samuel J. Moore @Alexandfeswick
Brussels sprouts are in season! The best way to prepare them is by removing the outer leaves and quartering them. Fry them in some sunflower oil with a few cloves of thinly sliced garlic. Hit them with a little soy, chilies, fresh ginger, scallions and a knob of butter when they’re finished frying. Delicious.
Will Predhomme Senior Sommelier Canoe Restaurant @SommWillPred
Patrick McMurray Owner Starfish, Ceili Cottage @ShuckerPaddy
Michael Stadtländer Owner, Head Chef Eigensinn Farm and Haisai Bakery
I like to grab a group of friends and find a place to have a picnic in my area (Singhampton). Ideally, there should be lots of food, a pig roasting on a spit, wine and a guitar. We enjoy the last of the good weather and talk about our favourite summer memories.
Steve Gonzalez Owner, Executive Chef Valdez @thevaldezTO
I like squash and pumpkins. Calabaza soup is a staple in Latin America. Sweet, savory, spicy and aromatic.
16
CityBites
Harvest season for me starts with the arrival of the Galway Flats oysters to Toronto. The meaty texture, briny palate, full ocean flavours and dry, tannic finish match well with the roasted malts of a Guinness. To make Moran’s Garlic Oysters, an inspiration for me and The Ceili Cottage: use a knob of butter, teaspoon of fresh minced Ontario garlic and enough panko breadcrumbs to bind, spread over the oyster and toast until golden brown.
Mike Webster Head bartender Bar Isabel @BarIsabel797
If I had to pick one ingredient for the fall to mix well with cocktails, it would be cinnamon bark syrup. A slow heat on the stovetop with a rich one-to-one simple syrup and a handful of smashed cinnamon sticks will yield a nutty-spiced, dark cinnamon sweetener that is sweeter than any sweet vermouth. This syrup is great mixed with noble whisky based cocktails.
Fall is charcoal grill time. There’s nothing like the feel of crisp air and smell of smouldering wood chips. I like sugar maple. Also, use a chimney starter ($15 at Canadian Tire and made in Canada). As far as drinking, a hoppy beer such as Muskoka Mad Tom is imperative during the preparation process. The crispness of the beer seems to enhance the season. Wines from Austria and Portugal spring to mind; Gruner Veltliner and Blaufrankish from Austria, Fernao Pires and Gouveio from Portugal. I usually aim for the ones I have trouble pronouncing— always interesting and delicious.
Jamie Kennedy Owner, Executive Chef Jamie Kennedy Kitchens @ChefJKennedy
Otis Creary Executive Chef, owner The Hummingbird @HummingbirdTO
We make a great red kidney bean soup. I also like to make ackee and saltfish because it’s easy and when it starts to get cold, it reminds me of my home, Jamaica. You can find ackee in a can at any West Indian or Caribbean grocery store. To make: blanch the ackee and set aside. Sautee garlic, minced onions, tomato and green onion in a little oil for about a minute. Then add the ackee and saltifsh to the pan and mix. You can also roast breadfruit as a side.
For the best beets: Scrub, wrap in foil and roast for two hours at 300°F. When cool, peel and slice. For the beet greens: Wash and boil for about five minutes, cool in cold water and then squeeze the water out. Add a bit of apple cider vinegar, honey, salt and pepper and chop. Lay the greens on a plate and top with the sliced beets. Dress with good olive oil and salt.
Keith Froggett Executive Chef Scaramouche
One of my favourite early fall things to cook are grilled mushroom puffballs. I usually brush them with olive oil and liberally season them, throw them on the grill until golden on both sides them remove them and brush them with chimichurri or other full flavoured herb marinade, most importantly while they are still warm.
@ursarestaurant
Chef, Co-owner Woodlot
Geoff Hopgood
@WoodlotTO
Owner, Executive Chef
I love grilled mushrooms, particularly hen o’ the woods. They absorb the flavour of the grill magically. They’re great doused in good oil with minced raw garlic on grilled bread or with steak or chicken.
Hopgood’s Foodliner
Chef de Cuisine
@chefhopgood
When the nights are getting colder I like to cook braises or stews. We put a Jiggs dinner [traditional Newfoundland salt-beef stew] on the menu. This year it will be braised beef cheeks with cabbage, root veggies and a crumble of brioche made with bone marrow.
Woods
ILLUSTRATIONS: PARISGREENCREATIVE.COM
@AnthonyDavisTO
Go for a drive through the Kawarthas, Niagara or whichever farming community happens to be closest to you and see who is selling what in terms of meat, veggies and fruit. Be inspired by the seasons and the local products available to you. Some of the best fruit you’ll find is grown right here but there are also great game meats and the two complement each other beautifully. Keep it simple and let what you find be your inspiration.
Executive Chef, Owner Ursa
David Haman
Anthony Davis
Jacob Sharkey Pearce
Get back to some fundamental oldschool basics... making vinegar from beautiful Ontario orchard fruit, culturing a probiotic crème fraiche and blooming your own mustard are techniques that take only minutes to start and a little bit of patience to finish. There is easy access to this information in many great and inexpensive books or online. The quality and cost efficiency of these homemade versions will always be far superior to anything you can buy.
Jonathan Poon Executive Chef, owner Chantecler @J6poonTO
Use lots of bacon! Everything in fall tastes good with bacon. Squash and bacon, pears and bacon, I could go on and on. Put bacon with my favourite mushroom—matsutake (pine mushrooms)—which are in season right now. They are highly prized in Asia but also grow in Canada. September/October 2013
17
The Great Ontario
Cheese and Ale Trail A special feature sponsored by Dairy Farmers of Canada
Sudbury
THE BEERS
1
Railway City Brewing Co. 168 Curtis St., St. Thomas, 519-631-1881 • railwaycitybrewing.com • @railwaycity
69
Whether it’s a fruity seasonal pilsner or a full-bodied ale, each Railway City brew has a flavour as unforgettable as its name. Call ahead to book a tour. Signature: Dead Elephant Ale is a full-bodied golden pale.
2
Neustadt Springs Brewery 456 Jacob St., Neustadt, 519-799-5790 • neustadtsprings.com A historic microbrewery in the old-world village of Neustadt. Pop by for a tour of the underground caverns and pure crystal springs. Signature: A traditional dark English Mild, award-winning 10W30 is a smooth and drinkable ale.
3
Parry Sound
Grand River Brewing 295 Ainslie St., Cambridge, 519-620-3233 • grandriverbrewing.com • @grandriverbeer Full-flavoured craft beers with moderate alcohol (5% or less), made in a 1913 knife factory. Signature: 1913 Traditional, designed to replicate the brew of choice for thirsty farmhands a century ago.
4
Great Lakes Brewery 30 Queen Elizabeth Blvd., Toronto, 416-255-4510 • greatlakesbeer.com • @greatlakesbeer
6
Small batch brewing and local ingredients keep Ontario beer enthusiasts committed. Signature: The hoppy Crazy Canuck Pale Ale finishes with a pleasing malty and bready quality.
5
Flying Monkeys Craft Brewery 107 Dunlop St., East Barrie, 705-721-8989 • theflyingmonkeys.ca • @flyingmonkeys Seriously hoppy brews come in psychedelic looking bottles with quotes under each cap. Don’t let the whimsy fool you! Signature: Netherworld Cascadian Dark Ale is an Imperial India Porter
1
with medium-bodied coffee and cocoa goodness.
6
2
Muskoka Brewery 13 Taylor Rd., Bracebridge, 705-646-1266 • muskokabrewery.com • @muskokabrewery Freshness and independence rule at the Muskoka Brewery, where a selection of easy-drinking beers is handcrafted in the heart of Muskoka. Signature: The English pub-style Cream Ale sports rich amber colour and inviting floral tones.
7
Barley Days Brewery 13730 Loyalist Parkway, Picton, 613-476-7468 • barleydaysbrewery.com • @barleydaysbrews
2
Signature: Crisp and clean, Loyalist Lager is a balanced Pilsner-style lager with a slightly bitter finish.
8
10 Terry Fox Dr., Vankleek Hill, 866-585-BEER • beaus.ca • @beausallnatural Beau’s very first batch won best beer at the 2006 Toronto Golden Tap Awards, and an extensive selection has been racking up the accolades ever since. Signature: Mutineer Imperial Pilsner packs powerful herbal and grassy aromas… and a lot of hops!
Win Windsor 18
CityBites
402
8
3
The brewery uses local ingredients to make a small selection of brews and seasonal ales.
Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company
5
London Lon ndon 401
1
3
6
401 1
QEW
403
Hamilton QEW
4
Illustration: ParisGreenCreative.com
THE CHEESES
1
10 2 3 4
North ort rttth h ayy Bay
11
5 6 7
6
8 9
400
11
Barrie
10
400
Toronto
4
Pine River Cheese 635 Hwy 21 S., R.R. #4, Ripley, Huron-Kinloss, 519-395-2638 • pinerivercheese.com • @pinerivercheese Since 1885, local raw milk is used to produce 14 varieties of cheese, including an 8-year aged cheddar and some delicious organic varieties. Signature: Tasty flavoured options like the award-winning Thai Curry Cheese Curds.
Mountainoak Cheese 3165 Huron Rd., New Hamburg, 519-662-4967 • mountainoakcheese.ca The Van Bergeijk family understands that great cheese needs great milk. Signature: Mild and aged Premium Dutch Gouda.
Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese 445172 Gunns Hill Rd., Woodstock, 519-424-4024 • gunnshillcheese.ca Small-scale artisan cheeses made using traditional Swiss recipes. Signature: The typical Swiss-mountain-style Handeck.
Upper Canada Cheese Co. 4159 Jordan Rd., Jordan Station, 905-562-9730 • uppercanadacheesecompany.com • @uppercanadachse Unique flavours come courtesy of a rare Niagara herd of Guernsey cows, minimal processing and careful aging on site. Signature: The delicately sweet Niagara Gold, based on recipes developed by Trappist Monks in the Loire Valley.
Ivanhoe Cheese 11301 Hwy 62 N., R.R. #5, Madoc, 1-800-268-0508 • ivanhoecheese.com Dating from 1870 as a dairy co-operative in the hamlet of Ivanhoe. Signature: Horseradish Cheddar—creamy, with a kick!
Black River Cheese 913 County Rd. 13, R.R. #2, Athol, 613-476-2575 • blackrivercheese.com Old-world craftsmanship dating back to its 1901 beginnings as a farmers’ co-op. Signature: The incredibly flavourful 8-year Naturally Aged Cheddar, with its irresistible dry, rough and crumbly texture.
Maple Dale Cheese 2864 Hwy 37 N., R.R. #1, Plainfield, 613-477-2454 • mapledalecheese.ca Cheddars are a specialty, and a crowd-pleasing fresh curd is made daily. The roadside store is packed with gourmet treats. Signature: “Outrageously Old” 7-year Cheddar—it’s a taste sensation!
Glengarry Fine Cheese 5926 County Rd. #34, R.R. #1, Lancaster, 1-888-816-0903 • glengarryfinecheese.com A passionate family farm making cheese from its own Holstein cows. Signature: Lankaaster, a hard Dutch-style cheese.
St. Albert Cheese Manufacturing 150 St-Paul St., St-Albert, 613-987-2872 • fromage-st-albert.com Five generations of farmers have maintained St. Albert’s trusted recipes, from melt-in-your mouth curds to spiced-up cheddars. Signature: Perfectly textured soft and succulent Cheddar Curds.
Thornloe Cheese 999697 Hwy 11 N., Thornloe, 705-647-7441 • thornloecheese.ca Old-fashioned techniques and fresh local milk from the district of Temiskaming. Signature: The traditional-styled Temiskaming, a soft cheese with an earthy depth and pungent blue-cheese taste.
5 Belleville
6
Ottawa
9 416
7 401
417
8
8
7
Niagara Falls asourceofpride.ca September/October 2013
19
9
Essentials
Carefully selected, premium wines and spirits from the old world and the new.
Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay Vintages #: 933077 Retail: $19.95
Santa Margherita Prosecco di Valdobbiadene D.O.C.G. Brut
Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio Vintages #: 106450 Retail: $17.95
Vintages #: 687582 Retail: $17.95
Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages Vintages #: 365924 Retail: $16.95
Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino Vintages #: 650432 Retail: $49.95
Anselmi San Vincenzo
Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay
Vintages #: 948158 Retail: $15.95
Vintages #: 302083 Retail: $29.95
Represented by
Mitolo Jester Shiraz
Luxardo Maraschino
Vintages #: 659607 Retail: $22.95
Vintages #: 57448 Retail: $25.95
471 Jarvis St. Toronto, ON, M4Y 2G8 Tel: 416-253-5508 PonteWineAndSpirits.com Available at Vintages in select LCBO stores.
FESTIVAL
By Beverley Hotchkiss
How to Savour Stratford 2013 A HIGHLIGHT ON THE FOOD CALENDAR, THIS YEAR’S FEST PROMISES A WEEKEND OF TASTY TIMES Having once spent three consecutive years travelling and eating my way around the world, I was thrilled to hear the theme of this year’s Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival is globally inspired, locally grown. Last year my husband, Chef Ryan Crawford, and I hosted a GE Café event at Savour Stratford focused on whole-animal butchery. Our guests dined on lamb heart tartar and crispy lamb belly as they picked up cleavers and blades to get a tactile sense of where the various cuts of loin and rounds and racks come from. Then they sat down to an appetizer of lamb shank ragu and an entrée trio of leg, rack and in-house lamb sausage. It is nothing short of inspirational how everyone comes together at these events for a creatively enjoyable challenge of culinary art. And so, I’ve picked a few highlights from this year’s calendar—hoping they’ll tantalize your taste buds.
THE SHOW-STOPPERS The GE Café Chefs Series presents Vikram Vij at the Local Community Food Centre. Vij’s personality competes with his spice tins as he woos you with his elegant and inspired Indian cuisine. The Chef Series is small, intimate and hands-on—and also includes lunch. (Vij is also hosting a Hot Food, Cool Wine talk at 3 p.m. on Saturday at the City Hall Learning Centre.)
TUTORED TALKS AND TASTINGS Thirteen events make it hard to choose. But here are some highlights: 1 A Glass of Somewhere-ness Terroir, the taste of “somewhere,” is fundamental to grape growing and this session will allow participants to sample and compare the two great Burgundian grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, across three distinct regions: Ontario, Oregon and Burgundy. Sun., 3 p.m., City Hall
Sat., Sept. 21, 11 a.m., $140
Learning Centre, $45
WOMAN IN FOOD BREAKFAST
2 Bitters Revival Peter and Geoff Dillon will introduce you to a wide variety of artisanal bitters used to shake-up your imagination. Think Mad Men-swank and innovative concoctions and creations. Sun., noon, City Hall Learning Centre, $45
VIKRAM VIJ
This is an opportunity to sit down for breakfast with a panel of expressive females representing a wide-range of culinary careers. Alison Fryer of The Cookbook Store will mediate a panel that includes: author/photographer Naomi Duguid; chef and activist Joshna Maharaj; Chatelaine food editor Claire Tansey; coffee expert and Revel Caffe owner Anne Campion; and Brazilian chef Mara Salles. Sun., Sept. 22, 9 a.m., $25/person (discount for students and children)
3 Beerology Cask Ale Guided Tasting with Mirella Amato Cask ales are still gently fermenting in their casks and take on a whole different spectrum of flavours that you may not have experienced before. Sat., 2:30 p.m., Artisan Alley Market Square, $25
THE TASTE OF ONTARIO ARTISAN ALLEY
Stroll through the Market Square Tent tasting a unique and limited run of unfiltered and unpasteurized beers made specifically for Savour Stratford. Also featured: some of Ontario’s newest VQA wines and Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers. The Dairy Farmers of Ontario presents artisan cheese makers. $1 each for tasting tickets.
SAVOUR STRATFORD TASTING The culmination of all things culinary takes place at a spectacular tented garden party in Stratford’s Market Square. Thirty top local chefs and producers will pair up with some of the best VQA wines and craft brews. All afternoon you can enjoy the live entertainment as you sip, sample and seduce your senses. Sun., 1 p.m., $85
BE SURE TO SEEK OUT… Bryan Steele’s slow-smoked Church Hill farm pulled pork sandwich. Steele has been a senior cookery instructor at Stratford Chef School for more than 20 years. His protégées fill Toronto’s best kitchens. Think Richmond Station, Nota Bene, Scaramouche, Enoteca Sociale, Jamie Kennedy Kitchens. I’ve had the good fortune of eating Bryan’s food on a few occasions and I am always a wee bit bigger on leaving than I was arriving. Francisco Alejandri, a graduate of Stratford Chef School, will soon be opening the much anticipated Agave y Aguacate on Baldwin Street in Toronto. He will be cooking up Shimp Chalupa (boat… and it actually looks like a boat!) on the Toronto Star Culinary Stage. Sun., 2 p.m. $5 The “after” action will be happening all over Stratford. Later in the evening, if you want to hang with actors, check out Down the Street. To meet the chefs and food personalities, check out Mercers (good food and craft brews) and Fosters. We plan to hit the swish new Taverna above Pazzo, run by chef school alumi Yva Santini. And then there’s the Boar’s Head where the most recent Stratford Chef School apprentices hang out. BUY TICKETS For more information on events, scheduling, pricing and to buy tickets to events: visitstratford.ca/culinaryfestival September/October 2013
21
Visit wine country THE CITYBITES GUIDE TO NIAGARA AND PEC If you happened to think visiting wine country was a summeronly affair… think again. Fall is one of the busiest times on the wine country roads of Niagara and Prince Edward County. It’s the season for serious tasters to come out to play—and firsttimers are welcome too. We’ve compiled a list of places and events worth visiting.
OFF THE BEATEN PATH WINERY VISITS… 1. Daniel Lenko Estate Winery
3. The Organized Crime Winery
Lenko is a third-generation grape grower with the oldest Chardonnay vines in Canada. The Beamsville winery is only open on the weekend because during the week, Lenko is out tending to the fields and his construction business. Look for Lenko’s Corvette parked outside the driveway of the tasting room that could easily be mistaken for a modest little home. daniellenko.com
By far one of the most entertaining tasting room experiences thanks to the dry and sarcastic humour of owner Krystyna Tarasewicz. This small boutique winery’s tasting room feels like an inner nook of a gothic castle or a room off the Clue board game. The wines are always full-bodied and interesting like the 2009 Fumé Blanc. organizedcrimewine.com 4. Lailey Vineyard
2. Pearl Morissette Estate Winery
Call ahead to book an appointment at one Canada’s rising star private wineries, known for atypical Riesling and luscious Cabernet Franc. There is no formal tasting room, so sipping and spitting is generally done in the vinification area beside the barrels and tanks. pearlmorissette.com
This small family-run winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake is producing some exceptional smallbatch wines. A must-try: the 2012 Gewürztraminer, which throws your taste buds off with an unexpected dry finish. The wine smells of tropical pineapple and peaches and was fermented using wild yeast and then barrel aged. laileyvineyard.com 5. Five Rows Craft Wine of Lowrey Vineyard
A hidden gem and favourite vineyard among Niagara’s winemakers and employees. The tasting room is inside a tiny barn and only open on weekends or by appointment during the week. Sample their small-production wines alongside artisanal cheeses and breads. fiverows.com
EAT AND SLEEP
...EVENTS...
6. Pomodoro
SEPTEMBER 13–14
This rustic Italian eatery in Prince Edward County is a favourite among Wellington locals with superior palates, including Jamie Kennedy (who has a farm nearby) and Norman Hardie. You can even dine and crash in the luxe suite above the resto.
Fall Handmade Market
pomodoropec.ca
ucts, preserves and (of course)
CityBites
and shopping? The picturesque 13th Street Winery’s 25 acre estate in Niagara will be housing the ultimate artisan market experience. With over 50 local artisans creating one-of-kind pieces ranging from leather goods and hand bound books to body prodwine by the glass. No need to
7. Angélines Inn and Restaurant
A newly renovated familyrun inn, Angélines has been operating in Prince Edward County for more than 25 years. Decorated with a mix of old and new, the Victorian home has 16 fully equipped rooms ($139-$295). The food at the connecting restaurant, The Hubb Eatery and Lounge, is great too. angelines.ca
feel guilty, sip, shop and savour in support of local business! 13thstreetwinery.com SEPTEMBER 14–29
Niagara Wine Festival What better way to celebrate Niagara’s bounty? From big, beautiful Baco Noir to charcuterie with a view, harvest music night to a VQA and chopstick party, the Niagara Wine Festival has something for everyone (and then some). Purchasing a Discovery Pass ($40 +HST) is the best way to enjoy all the guilty plea-
8. Benchmark Restaurant
sures this festival has to offer.
at Niagara College
niagarawinefestival.com
Experience food from students and guest chefs at the award-wining restaurant that overlooks the Niagara College’s vineyard. Tremendous value in college-grown and locally sourced ingredients, and a wine library that has rare bottles at minimal mark-up. niagaracollege.ca/content/ Benchmark/ 9. August Restaurant
Niagara winemaker Daniel Lenko says August restaurant is his favourite dining destination for “a single guy who likes to eat.” This Beamsville restaurant ...continued on page 25
22
What better pairing than wine
SEPTEMBER 21 AND 28
Pick, Stomp and Taste Creating the perfect wine is hard work (for the hands, feet and liver) but for those willing to bare their sole for a unique wine experience the Flat Rock Cellar Crew invite you to Jordan to pick, stomp and taste your way through their 2013 vintage. $25/ person. flatrockcellars.com SEPTEMBER 27–29
TASTE Community Grown Have a taste for regional cuisine, County wines and adventure? Join the tight knit community of chefs, winemakers and farmers as they showcase all the tasty reason they love local. The weekend long event includes a County Kind of Concert on the
By John Szabo | @JohnSzabo
...EVENTS... Crystal Palace grounds, movie screenings and relaxing evenings under the stars. Various locations around Prince Edward County. tastecommunitygrown.com OCTOBER 19 AND 20
The Pinot Affair Don’t tell Chardonnay. Niagaraon-the-Lake knows you’ll be seduced by Pinot the second it hits your lips. Join ten wineries that have also fallen under her spell. Please your senses with Pinot tastings and vineyard visits. When the sun goes down indulge in ten Pinots paired with
John Szabo’s Top Tastings in PEC GET THEE TO THE COUNTY AND VISIT THESE GREAT WINERIES The County is just waiting for you, with tastings, picnics, great food and exemplary hospitality. Note that wineries may not accept visitors every day of the week, and some close completely later in the fall and winter. Always phone ahead.
FOR THE WINE….
Casa Dea Estates Winery Greer Rd., Wellington, 613399-3939, casadeaestates.com
For a more urban experience, lunch at La Pergola restaurant featuring Italian cuisine, or peruse the retail shop or elbow your way up to the tasting bar. Two bocce courts and an outdoor chessboard with toddler-sized pieces add entertainment.
delicious dishes from Stephen
Hinterland Wine Company
Treadwell’s kitchen. A week-
1258 Closson Rd., RR#1 Hillier, 613-399-2903,
The Grange of Prince Edward
end so steamy, it will have you
hinterlandwine.com
990 Closson Rd., Hillier, 613-399-1048,
stepping out on your favourite
grangeofprinceedward.com
thepinotaffair.com
A small, family-run, sparkling wine specialist, producing top bubbly from both the charmat and traditional method. Watch out for the lively free-range chickens as you park your car, and call ahead for an appointment outside of weekends.
FRI. TO SUN ALL NOVEMBER
Stanners Vineyards
grape. Winemakers dinner $125, touring passes $40 (reservations are required for these events). Various locations.
Taste the Season
With the hustle and bustle of harvest behind us and the transition from fall to winter transforming the vineyards you can either bury yourself in blankets and wait for it to end or you can
76 Station Rd., Hillier, 613-661-3361, stannersvineyard.ca
It’s not the tasting the room or the property itself, but the wine that draws you here. Intriguing Pinot Gris and classy Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, among others.
warm up your winter with the Wineries of Niagara-on-the-lake.
Rosehall Run
Tickets are $44.25 (+HST) and
1243 Greer Rd., Wellington, 1-888-399-1183,
allow you to sample seasonally
rosehallrun.com
inspired premium VQA wines and food pairings at 27 wineries. Various locations, Niagara-onthe-lake. wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com NOVEMBER 9–10, 16–17, 23–24
Wrapped up in the Valley
Never is wine more essential than when the holiday season is approaching. Choose a weekend to sip and taste your way through the stunning wineries of Twenty Valley. Here’s a great opportunity to stock up on VQA wines for your next seasonal soiree or the hard to shop for oenophile is your life. Your $40 (+HST) tasting passport includes samples paired with holiday inspired dishes at 24 wineries. Various locations. 20valley.ca
Dan Sullivan crafts a wide range of fine value wines, including a rare County Syrah, though Chards, Pinots and Cab Francs are strengths. But watch out, there’s some Tempranillo planted-you never know. On days when the Festival Players of Prince Edward County stage a performance in the Grand Tent, you’ll get the full Monty.
FOR THE EXPERIENCE....
Grab a picnic basket filled with locally made foods (rustic sammies, local pates and charcuterie, summer salads, homemade cheese and pickles and seasonal desserts), a blanket, and a bottle of Fumé Blanc (the only one in the county) and find your spot on this spectacular property. The horizontally challenged can sit on the limestone patio under a shady tree.
FOR THE FULL MONTY.... Norman Hardie 1152 Greer Rd., RR#1, 613-399-5297, normanhardie.com
Enjoy the best wood-fired pizza in Canada (a mild exaggeration) on “Mr. County’s” patio Thursday to Sunday, and dig the groovy vibes with a glass or two of the county’s top pinot noir, chardonnay and more. Closson Chase Vineyards 629 Closson Rd., Hillier, 1-888-201-2300, clossonchase.com
Arguably the county’s quality pioneer (with plenty of blood, sweat, tears and empty pockets to show for it), Closson Chase serves up riveting Chardonnays and serious Pinot Noirs in their beautiful garden next to the vines. Local cheeses served.
Karlo Estates 561 Danforth Rd., Wellington, 613-399-3000,
Huff Estates
karloestates.com
2274 Prince Edward 1, Bloomfield, 613-393-1414,
Sample an eclectic collection of wines in a century-and-a-half old, beautifully restored barn, and explore innovative pairings including Pinot Noir with tamari covered almonds or the ‘CHOA’ Chardonnay with Kalamata olives. Bonus: Karlo is North America’s first vegan-certified winery. Musicians can saddle up to the ivories or grab a guitar for an impromptu jam.
huffestates.com
Local boy Lanny Huff came home to establish this urbane operation that’s like a little bit of the city in the county. Chef Michael Hoy serves up lunch on the patio from Thursday to Monday, while the Oeno Gallery exhibits a curated selection of exceptional artwork including a sculpture garden with works by 26 artists. September/October 2013
23
By Konrad Ejbich
Take a wine country tour FOLLOW THESE TIPS AND HAVE A GREAT TRIP
TASTY TOUR The tasting room at Inniskillin in Niagara.
STAY COZY And speaking of cool things
to do, pack a sweater if you hope to spend any time in a winery’s barrel cellar. They’re often 15 to 20 degrees cooler than upstairs and outside. START RIGHT Have a hearty break-fast. There’s nothing like binging on an empty stomach. TROPHIES! The best wines of most wine producers are not available at LCBO stores, so take this opportunity to grab a few exceptional bottles. TAKE NOTE Take a notebook with you.
Half the trick is remembering which wines you liked and which ones not. ASK QUESTIONS Taste before buying anything and ask the question, “How long can this wine be kept?” before committing to a multi-bottle purchase. Place a tag with that information on the bottle. STAY FOCUSED Pace yourself. Remember, you’re tasting—not drinking. Don’t be shy about using the spittoons provided. Once you start swallowing, your sense of good judgment quickly declines. CB
GET WHERE YOU’RE GOING Find events, detailed maps, route planners and more on the dozens of vineyards scattered across Ontario’s wine regions. Visit winecountryontario.ca. LAKE ERIE NORTH SHORE & PELEE ISLAND Canada’s southernmost region boasts Ontario’s longest growing season, which can produce fuller-bodied wines. GETTING THERE: Take Hwy 401 west for 340km and catch the Scudder ferry in Leamington.
24
CityBites
NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE Cradling one of Ontario’s loveliest towns, this region offers relaxing vistas, historic charm and topnotch wines. GETTING THERE: Head west along the QEW for about 110km (you’ll curve around the lake) and then north east on Niagara Stone Road.
NIAGARA ESCARPMENT & TWENTY VALLEY This UNESCO site and home to the Bruce Trail is a microclimate for unique, personality-laden wines and wineries big and small. GETTING THERE: Head west along the QEW for about 65km and watch for exit signs to the wineries.
PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY Ontario’s newest wine appellation, The County’s pastoral settings provide the perfect backdrop for pairing wines with its many artisanal products. GETTING THERE: Head east about 200km on Hwy 401 and take the Loyalist Parkway onto the island.
THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE ONTARIO CULINARY ADVENTURE GUIDE 2013.
Call it a picnic, call it a shopping trip or call it a mental health day. Whatever pretext you use, call a friend and get yourselves to a nearby winery. Call it an excuse to chum and to chat, but can you think of a more pleasant way? Then, call ahead, plan ahead and have a good time... sipping fine wines among the grapes that made them. Here are some tips to make your trip outstanding and memorable: MAP IT Get a good map of the region you want to visit and plan your trip in detail. It’s better than aimlessly wandering about and wasting time asking folks for directions. INSIDE INFO Visit websites of any wineries you intend to stop by. They may have special events or tastings you can get in on in advance with a phone call. SAFETY FIRST Designated a driver or engage the services of a local tour company. You’ll enjoy yourself more when you don’t need to think about the rules of the road. COOL IT Pack a cooler in the trunk of the car so you can keep your purchases from overheating in the summer sun. SNACK ATTACK Prepare a picnic basket, or plan to buy snacks along the way. Many wineries encourage you to sit around and snack while you sip their wines by the vineyards. KICK BACK And take along a couple of lawn chairs or a blanket to spread out by the vineyard.
...continued from page 22 specializes in homemade goodies like wild leek and mushroom asiago dip with freshly baked focaccia. On Soul Food Sundays, dishes like spicy southern fried chicken ($17) and blackened shrimp with whisky barrel smoked beef brisket ($18) offer up big tastes of the south. Many dishes can be made glutenfree. augustrestaurant.ca 10. About Thyme Bistro
The perfect BYOB spot, this 40-seat Lincoln restaurant will be happy to open any bottle you bring after a day of vineyard visits. Sinful dishes like the bistro poutine ($19) made with Yukon-gold fries and housemade garlic mayonnaise and mussels and fries ($15) make perfect candidates for washing down with a bottle of top notch sparkling from the nearby escarpment’s 13th Street Winery. aboutthymebistro.com 11. The Good Earth
Owner Nicolette Novak and executive chef Therese De Grace not only have the best cheese and charcuterie plate in Niagara but this Beamsville restaurant also puts on awesome cooking classes and demos. Tip: Their cheese and charcuterie goes great with a bottle of their rosé. goodearthfoodandwine.com 12. The Orchard Croft
Open year-round, this new boutique B&B in Jordan Station overlooks an orchard and offers three suites and a fully furnished house, with prices starting at $129 (variable according to season). Cooking classes, wine tours, boat cruises and holistic spa services are just a few of the many hookups this Jordan inn can get you. orchardcroft.ca
HOMEGROWN Good Earth Rosé.
SHOP 13. The Fruit Shack
The butter tarts at this small family-run Niagaraon-the-Lake grocery store are so good you should refrain from driving while eating because you’ll crash from sugar-induced ecstasy. True. thefruitshack.com 14. Vicki’s Veggies
A treasure of Prince Edward County and a vital source of produce for many of Toronto’s top restaurants (such as Belmonte Raw, Keriwa Café, Nota Bene). The veggie stand is un-staffed: Just put money in a jar and help yourself to purple carrots, hot peppers, filet beans, fennel and much more.
BREWERIES NIAGARA & PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY 17. Go for a Beer in NOTL
Two stellar breweries, Oast House and Silversmith Brewing Company, opened this year in Niagara-onthe-Lake. Not only does Oast make great beer but they also sell some pretty sweet toques and trucker hats. Silver Smith gets props for its super cool digs in a refurbished church. oasthousebrewers.ca, silversmithbrewing.com
vickisveggies.com
Since 1985
IF YOU DON’T DIG WINE
Local Food • Local Farms Local People
15. The Distillery Experience
Raised Without Hormones & Antibiotics
For a taste of pretty great small-batch spirits (gin, rye, vodka) and homemade bitters, hit up the sipping room at Dillon’s Small Batch Distillers in Beamsville. dillons.ca GOOD BREW Toast the Oast!
16. 66 Gilead Distillery
Whole-wheat vodka, loyalist gin and Canadian pine vodka are just a few of the hand-crafted and high-end spirits for sale and for taste at this craft distillery in Prince Edward County’s Bloomfield.
18. Barley Days Brewery
66gileaddistillery.com
barleydaysbrewery.com
This Picton-area brewery focuses on three main beers along with a number of seasonals that take advantage of local ingredients like maple syrup and Ontario cherries.
Fall Season is Here - In House made Cordon Blue, Meatloaf, Spatchcock Chicken and Pot Roast!
Doin’ it right on the east side of town! 1968 DANFORTH AVE. 416-421-1029 WWW.ROYALBEEF.CA
September/October 2013
25
By Stephen Beaumont | @BeaumontDrinks
A study in lobster and SIXTEEN BEERS LATER, WE MAY HAVE FOUND THE PERFECT MATCHES Our curiosity had been piqued by a pair of summertime events at respectable, even respected Toronto restaurants, both of which paired boiled Atlantic lobster with that notorious faux-IPA from Labatt, Alexander Keith’s India Pale Ale. Could it be, we wondered, that Keith’s is actually a fair complement to such a Canadian delicacy, or was the partnership more an effect of clever marketing and studiously spent advertising dollars? To find our answer, we turned to the grand old man of Toronto shellfish, Rodney Clark. Or rather, given his late summer absence, his willful surrogates, Rodney’s Oyster House managers Bronwen Clark and Julius Chapple. They steamed the lobster and we brought the beer. Ah yes, the beer. Wishing to cover our bases and provide ample room for surprises, CityBites editor Dick Snyder and I assembled a selection of 16 brews covering a multitude of beer styles, all but one readily available at the LCBO in mid-August. Our flights were:
ROUND 1 Carib Lager Alexander Keith’s India Pale Ale Beau’s Lug Tread Lagered Ale Denison’s Weissbier ROUND 2 Steam Whistle Pilsner King Pilsner Cantillon Gueuze Dominus Vobiscum Saison ROUND 3 Éphémère Cerise Schneider Aventinus Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout Trou du Diable Shawinigan Handshake ROUND 4 Founder’s Centennial IPA Thornbridge Kipling South PacificPale Ale Mad & Noisy Hops & Bolts India Pale Lager Wellington Arkell Best Bitter
26
CityBites
The challenge was no small one. As much as plain boiled lobster is a rich dish, filled with lobstery goodness, it also presents relatively mild flavours that can easily be trampled by too brawny a beer. Finding that magic spot where weight (for the richness) meets subtle complexity (for the delicacy) was not about to be easy. As such, round one held some promise, populated as it was with beers of generally mild flavour and character. Too mild, as it turned out, at least where most of the beers were concerned. Beau’s, a golden ale styled after the great kölsch beers of Cologne, Germany, held up well alongside the crustacean, with the malt of the beer balancing well the richness of the lobster, while the mild hoppiness of the beer’s finish was more than enough to cut but not overwhelm the fattiness of the drawn butter. As for the others, the Keith’s and Carib did nothing for the tasters, while the fruitiness of the Denison’s simply clashed with the flavour of the lobster meat. Round two contained our non-LCBO beer: aged Cantillon Gueuze, a Belgian gem from my cellar that had been recommended to me as a perfect lobster beer. It wasn’t. The tartness of the spontaneously-fermented and champagnelike wheat beer was too much for the lobster, much as was the hoppy leanness of the King Pilsner and the spiciness of the Saison. The Steam Whistle, on the other hand, proved to be a favourite with all the tasters, with the beer accentuating the sweetness of the lobster meat and the shellfish highlighting the malt of the beer. The third round was our wild card round,
#1
STEAM WHISTLE PILSNER The beer accentuates the sweetness of the lobster, and the lobster highlights the malt of the beer.
with a quartet of diverse beers – fruit, doppelweizenbock, stout and hoppy weissbier—none of which appeared as a natural for the pairing. And sure enough, the Cerise and the Oatmeal Stout, while lovely on their own, were no fine match for the rich/delicate character of the lobster. (One dissenting voice was heard in favour of the cherry beer, but that taster later allowed that it was probably just because they really liked the beer.) The Shawinigan Handshake, on the other hand, surprised all with a wonderful ability to elicit notes of nuttiness when the lobster was dunked in butter, while the Aventinus provided marvellous harmonies between shellfish and beer, elevating and exalting the flavours of both food and drink in a most impressive fashion. Our fourth and final round promised to be the most interesting, as all the beers had moderate to significant hoppy bitterness, which on the surface appeared less than a perfect partner for the tender sweetness of lobster. And for the most part, that proved correct. The dryness of the Arkell managed to supress
#2
BEAU’S LUG TREAD The malt of the beer balances the richness of the lobster. With butter, the mild hoppiness of the beer’s finish cuts through.
beer
w w w. b w w i n e s . c o m
91J POINTS S OHN ZABO WWW.WINEALIGN.COM
the flavours of the shellfish, while the tropical fruit notes of the Thornbridg— thanks to its New Zealand hops—did little to enhance the pairing and the Hops & Bolts worked, but only when the lobster came after the beer, accentuating the rich creaminess of the meat, and not when the beer was sipped after the shellfish. Founders Centennial IPA, with its robust and citrusy hoppiness, actually emerged as the best of the round, at least when butter was added to the mix, with the lemony aspect of the beer’s hop character supplanting its bitterness. In the end, the clear crowd favourites were two beers with full but soft maltiness and understated hop characters, neither with a strongly pronounced fruitiness: Ontario’s own Steam Whistle Pilsner and Beau’s Lug Treat. Personally, I thought the star of the show was Aventinus, but was left wondering whether the richness of lobster and wheat beer combi-nation might prove wearying after more than a claw or two. And as for the Keith’s, well, it so failed to leave any sort of impression that it was all but forgotten by the end of the tasting. CB
BLCBO#: RUT RESERVE 325167 | $ 39.95
FO R M O R E I N FO R M AT I O N , C A L L U S AT
GET IT NOW AT THE LCBO! 416.531.5553
#3 SCHNEIDER AVENTINUS Marvellous harmonies between shellfish and beer.
September/October 2013
27
In support of The Canadian Women’s Foundation Wednesday, September 25, 7:00pm – 9:00pm Award-winning designer Barbara Barry is internationally known for her streamlined interiors and elegant home furnishings. Her look speaks to quiet luxury, comfort and ease – supporting her design philosophy that living simply and with quality is the highest form of luxury. We are delighted she will be joining us at Ladies’ Night – a celebration of women and the special bond between female friends. We promise an opportunity to meet Barbara and a night of exclusive wines, gourmet food, home decor at its most inspiring, a silent auction, a raffle and much more.
Tickets: $150, $250 (vip)
Location: Kravet and Lee Jofa Showrooms (Designers Walk, 320 Davenport Road)
To buy tickets, visit www.liffordladiesnight.com.
Magnum Sponsor
Media Partners
EXPERTS // GROW
By Arlene Hazzan Green
Bring it on! HOW TO PUT YOUR GARDEN BOUNTY TO USE ALL YEAR LONG Forty-five heirloom tomatoes, 15 giant zucchini, mountains of green and yellow beans—what is an overwhelmed urban farmer to do with all that harvest? And that’s just what’s ripe. In many urban homesteads across the city there are bushels full of vegetables, fruits and herbs reaching their peak and demanding attention. By the end of the summer the novelty of picking produce from your own backyard starts to wane, especially if you’ve been at it for years. There is only so much produce an enthusiastic gardener and their clan can eat, no matter how fresh or delicious. It’s far too easy to turn a blind eye to the surplus of vegetables that become overripe on the vine.
bag or hanging bouquets upside down in a cool, dry place. Everything from strawberries to tomatoes can be dried in an oven or dehydrator. Even garlic scapes! Homemade garlic powder anyone? FREEZING: The super green and nutritious kale freezes just as well as spinach. Some people like to cut the stems and FRESH FOR NOW Preserve your crop to get you through blanche before freezing the winter. but it’s not necessary. Kale, pot, mason jars and a set of tongs. Kits chard or collard greens all thaw well for making jam are also available at your enough to add to an omelet, soup, stir local hardware store. fry or muffin mix. Tomatoes can also be PICKLING: Cucumbers aren’t the only frozen whole or chopped, with or without things that benefit from brine. There are skins, and used for a delicious spaghetti many simple pickling recipes for hot or sauce. Herbs or garlic freeze well when sweet peppers, garlic scapes, asparagus blended with oil and poured into ice cube and beans. And brine is reusable for your trays. Remove the cubes and store next batch or two. Don’t forget to add in freezer bags for individual portions herbs from your garden such as bay, dill, of parsley, fennel fronds, cilantro, dill fennel, garlic and cilantro. CB and basil. CANNING: Pressure canners are Fear not. Not everything has to be inexpensive, easy to use and versatile. consumed immediately. There are many MARC GREEN and Save the taste of summer in jars of different strategies for keeping guilt at bay ARLENE HAZZAN GREEN own The Backyard Urban peaches or use up all your zucchini, and your bounty off the compost pile. Do Farm Company. BUFCO eggplant, onions and jalapenos in a as our savvy forbearers did: dry it, freeze brings organic vegetable homemade spicy ratatouille. it, can, preserve or pickle it, and you’ll be gardening to urban and PRESERVING: Making jam with eating fresh all winter long. sub-urban homes and DRYING: Drying herbs is as easy as leftover rhubarb and strawberries is easier businesses throughout the GTA Visit bufco.ca. cutting and tossing leaves in a paper than you think. All you need is a big CityBites_Summer2013_1_CityBites 13-05-23 4:10 PM Page 1
PHOTO: ARLENE HAZZAN GREEN
There are many different strategies for keeping guilt at bay and your bounty off the compost pile
Organic Leaders for 29 Years! Natural Food Market • 348 Danforth Avenue • 416.466.2129 info@thebigcarrot.ca • www.thebigcarrot.ca • the_bigcarrot
thebigcarrotnaturalfoodmarket September/October 2013
29
EXPERTS // FISHMONGERING
By Dan Donovan | @HookedInc
Good Fishing in the Great Lakes LOCALLY SOURCED FISH MAKES FOR A DELICIOUS DINNER—FRIED RIGHT
30
CityBites
PERCH Wild and tasty.
perch and whitefish) is exported to the United States, with the remaining fish sold to Canadian restaurants and retailers. In Canada, restaurants and retailers are only allowed to sell fish that’s been commercially harvested by qualified and licensed fishermen. This regulation helps prevent over-fishing and keeps stock levels healthy so fish can be enjoyed for years to come. When it comes to cooking fresh-water fish, there are a few things to keep in mind. Small fish like perch have bones that melt while cooking, but you’ll want to remove the bones from larger fish. Most fresh-water fish have a similar bone structure of small pin-like bones running down the loin—the thickest part of the fillet—that are hard to remove without damaging the fillet. You local fishmonger can remove these bones for you, but you can also cook fillets with the bones left in and then just remove them with your fingers once cooked. And if you plan to eat the skin, ask your fishmonger to
scale the fish for you. Pan-frying is the easiest and most common way to cook fresh-water fish. Simply take fish out of the fridge about 10 minutes before you want to cook it, dredge fillets in seasoned flour or cornmeal, and then cook in a hot buttered skillet. You can also steam, grill and, for an impressive presentation, roast fish whole. But remember, fish is delicate, so resist the urge to poke and flip, and keep and eye on it to prevent overcooking or you’ll end up with dry, flavourless meat. As for sides, just remember that old saying “things that grow together go together” and look for fresh Ontario vegetables at your local farmers market. CB DAN DONOVAN is a graduate of the Stratford Chef School and a veteran of the Toronto restaurant scene. He and his wife Kristin run Hooked (hookedinc.ca), Toronto’s only seafood retailer 100% committed to sustainability.
PHOTO: 123RF.COM
About 90 percent of fish caught in Canadian waters is exported to the United States This summer, while out on Lake Erie with a visiting European fisheries expert, a fourth generation fisherman and his son, I was reminded how lucky we are to live in an area with so many wild fish. Ontario lakes and rivers are brimming with dozens of species. Since the 1980s, when pollution in the Great Lakes became front-page news, the Ministry of Natural Resources (MNR) has kept a close eye on the Great Lakes. They check the water quality and stock levels of fish on a routine basis and if they notice an area where a species has been depleted, either through fishing or habitat changes, they’ll replenish the natural stock with hatchery-raised fry. This quality control process makes the Great Lakes some of the most closely monitored bodies of water. Fishing season on the Great Lakes runs from May to November. The only time commercial operators take a break is if there’s inclement weather of if the waters become too warm—usually in July or August. About 90 percent of the fish caught in Canadian waters (mainly pickerel,
EXPERTS // SZABO ON WINE
By John Szabo MS | @johnszabo
Fool’s gold WHO CAN YOU TRUST WHEN JUST ABOUT EVERY WINE IS MEDAL-WORTHY? There you are in the LCBO, facing a wall of wines. There are hundreds of bottles with foreign names, unknown producers, obscure grapes and appellations. I imagine it’s like a politician standing in front of a crowd of reporters, trying to figure out who’s friendly and who’s hostile. Which bottle is on your side? How do you find the simpatico wines? The only familiar thing is the price tag that hangs next to each—everybody gets a dollar value. But there are lots at similar prices. You see a score out of 100, the rating given by Joe Blow the Anytown Daily Chronicler. Hmm. Easy enough to understand, but not very authoritative. You look at the label for clues, something you can associate with personally—the elegant, old-fashioned script that speaks to your aristocratic sensibilities, or the jazzy, irreverent label that communes with the rebel inside you. But this, too, seems decidedly unscientific. Then you see it: a little sticker. Eureka! A gold medal-winning wine. It must be good if a panel of experts agreed to give it a badge. Sorry. That’s no guarantee either. You see, not all wine awards are created equal. Most are designed for profit, which equals survival, though some aim for profit at TRUE GOLD Norm Hardie 2011 County Pinot Noir.
the expense of accuracy and consistency. Running wine awards is logistically complex and expensive. Consider a few of the costs: renting a space large enough to organize thousands of bottles (at the proper temperature) and a separate room for judging, thousands of proper tasting glasses, an army of bottle openers, pourers, glass washers, polishers and data entry personnel, plus specialized software to sort everything out. Then you need judges, who often have to be flown in, housed and fed for the duration of the competition, and even occasionally paid for their services. There’s temptation to cut costs at every step. But the most reliable competitions sacrifice some profit in order to implement methodologies that yield consistent results. The experience level of
The experience level of the judges is the most critical factor. the judges is the most critical factor. The best don’t work for free—it’s all expenses paid plus a reasonable honorarium. I’ve seen judges with zero experience, just happy to be on a free trip. Judges must also be treated humanely. I know of competitions that require judges to taste and score hundreds of wines in a single day (so you can put more entries through in less time with fewer judges), a near-impossible task to do accurately and consistently. So, caveat emptor: next time you see the sticker or hear the tasting room server say “it won an award,” ask which competition and who was judging. All that glitters is not gold. Some reliable awards: Decanter World Wine Awards; International Wine Challenge; WineAlign’s National Wine Awards of Canada and World Wine Awards of Canada (in which I participate).
Some personal Ontario “Golds” from the National Wine Awards (official results at WineAlign.com): Angels Gate 2011 Pinot Gris Beamsville Bench $14.95 Fielding 2012 Gamay Niagara $17.95 Tawse 2010 Echos Riesling Niagara $17.95 KEW Vineyard Estate 2012 Marsanne-Viognier Beamsville Bench $18.95 Jackson-Triggs 2010 Grand Reserve Shiraz Niagara $19.95 Vineland 2011 Elevation Riesling St. Urban Vineyard $19.95 Peninsula Ridge 2012 Wismer Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Twenty Mile Bench $19.95 Henry of Pelham NV Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut Niagara $29.95 Closson Chase 2011 CCV Chardonnay PEC $29.95 Tawse 2010 Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc Lincoln Lakeshore $31.95 Hidden Bench 2010 Estate Pinot Noir Beamsville Bench $38.20 Norm Hardie 2011 County Pinot Noir PEC $35 Pondview 2010 Bella Terra Meritage Four Mile Creek $40.15 Hidden Bench 2010 La Brunante Beamsville Bench $75 JOHN SZABO MS is a reluctant wine judge and principal critic for WineAlign.com. Looking for the best wine buying club in Ontario? Check out sommelierservice.com.
September/October 2013
31
EXPERTS // THE EJ
By Konrad Ejbic | @WineZone
The ultimate Canadian wine lover? SHAWN MCCORMICK WANTS YOU TO APPRECIATE CANADIAN WINE—EVEN MORE The ultimate champion of Canadian wine just might be Shawn McCormick, although he’d be the first to disagree. By day an executive with an Ottawabased telecommunications company, McCormick discovered the joys of tasting wine several years ago. Soon he was learning all he could about grape varieties, malolactic fermentation and terroir. Over the years, his passion for fine wine deepened. McCormick drank all the great international labels, but with more and more visits to local producers, he quickly developed huge pride in what we grow right here in our own backyards. Since being bitten by the VQA wine bug, he has created a free app for mobile devices that is a comprehensive guide to Ontario wineries; he’s become a wine blogger and domestic wine booster; and he now hosts a weekly Twitterchat about Ontario wine issues and experiences. (Wednesdays at 10 p.m., #ONwinechat) McCormick’s twitter name is @UncorkOntario. One evening last month, while—what else?—chatting on twitter during a weekly #ONwinechat, one thing led to another. He and twitter-pal Calvin Hanselmann (@TheEvilDoctorD) were talking about #CanadianWineDay, the brainchild of Ottawa wine pundit Janet Dorozynski (@WineTrackMind).
“Why only a single day?” they lamented. They tossed around the idea of extending it to a week or a month. Then one of them hit on the idea of making it a whole year...a twelve-month challenge for Canadians to buy, gift, serve and drink only homegrown wine. “We thought we could do something to raise awareness across the nation,” he says. “I like fairness, and I find that Ontario wineries are treated unfairly by the regulations we have in this province and by the LCBO.” They call their cause, The Great Canadian Wine Challenge and for twitter users, created the account @TGCWC and hashtag #TGCWC. He and Hanselmann have set up a semistrict set of rules or guidelines, which are available at McCormick’s personal website uncorkontario.com. The Ontario wine industry has jumped on the idea too, offering support and prizes. Twenty-five years ago, in the era of Baby Duck, Maria Christina and Spumante Bambino, a challenge like this would have been considered a bad joke. At that time, there were no minimum standards for Canadian winemaking and knowledgeable wine consumers stuck mostly to drinking foreign plonk. The 1988 establishment of the Vintners’
WINE EH? Patriotism uncorked.
Quality Alliance (VQA) changed all that by banning the use of substandard grapes, mandating minimum ripeness levels and controlling label terminology. As well during the last two-and-a-half decades, the generation who associated the phrase “Canadian wine” with crapola has been steadily replaced by a newer, younger contingent of wine buyers, who don’t know what the history of what “was” and are dedicated to what “is”; and who have grown up with the richness of what our Canadian wineries have to offer. Are you Canada’s top wine lover? Sign up for the challenge and in one year’s time, I could be writing about you. CB KONRAD EJBICH is an author, broadcaster, columnist, photo/ video-journalist, and host/ producer of Pro & Kon on YouTube. Follow him on Twitter @WineZone.
How to Buy Wine from an Agent
Buying consignment wines from an agent is easy. Go online and get their list. Phone or email your order. Wait for delivery. Repeat.
B&W Wines 416-531-5553 www.bwwines.com
B&W Wines offers a portfolio of iconic and boutique wineries: Penley Estate, Lillypilly, Two Hands and Jansz from OZ; Darioush and La Crema in California; Argentinean Bodegas Weinert; Barolos from Brovia, Rhone-Ranger Jean-Luc Colombo and Douro producer Quinta de Ventolezo.
32
CityBites
Lifford Wine Agency 416-440-4101 or toll-free 1-877-272-1720 www.LiffordWine.com
2010 Winner - VINTAGES Portfolio Award of Excellence Serving the hospitality sector and private consumers in Ontario since 1985 with a focus on family owned and operated wineries that are equally as passionate about great wine as we are. Maison Louis Jadot, Felton Road, Felsina and Hollick, to name just a few.
EXPERTS // LIBATIONS
By Stephen Beaumont
Fall for bourbon A FEW SOUTHERN WHISKIES THAT ARE WORTH A TASTE Where spirits are concerned, fall has for me always meant bourbon. Sure, I’ll drink the stuff at other times of the year, but just as winter is more a Scotch whisky time and summer suggests gin or rum, autumn seems to belong to bourbon. Fortunately, there seem to be a lot of people around these parts who agree with me, including our provincial liquor czar, the LCBO, which runs its Whisky Rocks program around this time every year, and the organizers of the first-ever Toronto Bourbon Week, which kicks off September 27. Sticking with the former, there are five whiskeys in this year’s promo that I think are worth taking a good, long look at, some which have been here before, some new and some that will thankfully be hanging around on the general list. From the folks who give us Buffalo Trace, itself my go-to bourbon for flavour, balance and all-around utility, comes Ancient Age ($32.70), a simple yet sippable whiskey that is comparable to, yet without some of the rougher edges of, Jim Beam White. At 40% alcohol, it’s the lightest of this quintet and certainly the one most suited to mixing with cola or ginger ale.
THE DOGHOUSE I was recently part of a tasting of “white dogs,” or unaged whiskies, the majority of which failed utterly to impress. Not so Still Waters New Make Rye ($39.95) and New Make Single Malt ($39.95), both 50% alcohol and more interesting by a fair margin than their LCBO equivalents. Both are available from Ontario’s stillwatersdistillery.com.
Most expensive of this fine lot is Woodford Reserve Four Wood ($129.95), but those seeking a unique bourbon experience will find it worth the money. After the standard charred oak aging, Four Wood is finished in parts in maplewood, sherry and port barrels, and it’s the plummy richness of the last that comes through most on the nose. At 47.2% alcohol, it’s got a bit of heat, but I wouldn’t dream of drowning its charred, sweet, dark fruitiness with even a drop of water. At 60% alcohol, however, Beam’s nineyear-old Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve ($55) is a bit too sharp to be sampled on its own. Add a touch of water, though, and you’re drinking a woody, roasty, straightforward bourbon that may just stand as the definitive statement on the Beam style of distilling, an unreservedly bourbon-y bourbon. Stronger still from Beam, yet curiously tasting less so, is Booker’s ($70.45), a wood-crated, barrel-proof gem that has been a staple in my liquor cabinet since
• custom design & build • Premier Cru kit racks • wine coolers & accessories
RWC_CB_QP.indd 1
the 1990s. This batch is 63.65% alcohol and, like its predecessors, culled from barrels between six- and eight-years old. While the nose remains a bit tight without water, the body offers cinnamon spice mixed with raisin and date notes, and is just lovely on its own, with a cube of ice or as the basis for a kick-ass Manhattan. Finally, again from Buffalo Trace, we get Stagg Jr. ($84.95), an almost 70% alcohol powerhouse that possesses all the sweetness and richness of the Trace style in a body that speaks equally to cigar leaf and dark chocolate, particularly on the nose. The younger brother of the massive George T. Stagg (unavailable here), this is a whiskey that tastes as if it could use still a few more years in the barrel, but is nonetheless more than worthy of pursuit.. CB STEPHEN BEAUMONT is co-author with Tim Webb of the just-published Pocket Beer Guide 2014, covering more than 3,600 beers from around the globe.
your wine deserves the very best home 416.285.6604
.
RosehillWineCellars.com
.
established 1995
September/October 2013 13-03-04 5:53 PM
33
ONE LAST BITE
By Dick Snyder | @citybites
Chefs and their Blunts TANYA KELLY IS DRESSING UP TORONTO’S TOP CHEFS IN FINE DENIM
chefs are better dressed these days, sporting a natty denim apron with leather accents? It’s all thanks to Tanya Kelly, whose new company The BluntRoll, is hand-crafting custom aprons that double as knife rolls (extra points if you get the double-entendre). Kelly is a chef herself, having worked alongside her fiancé Jason Cox at Opus (pictured above; see more at citybites.ca), but left the trade a few years back to go into organic farming. After returning to the city last winter, she noticed some shabby chefs shuffling around their dining rooms, and decided they needed sprucing up. She road-tested the first prototype—a full leather number— in the kitchen at Opus and found it too hot. The denim version has captured the hearts of chefs all over the city, including the crew at Bar Isabel, Scott Vivian at Beast, Rocco Agostino at Enoteca Sociale and Pizza Libretto. Her marketing scheme? Instagram. Follow her at bluntroll to see all the chefs who’ve fallen for her denim. Yes, that’s Tool frontman Maynard James Keenan sporting a Blunt. And Andrew Zimmern. And Chuck Hughes. Her newest creation is a custom “shucker” number for Patrick McMurray at Starfish, complete with custom holster for Shucker Paddy’s signature oyster killer. She makes a version for sommeliers and front of house staff too. Every apron is hand-made right here in Toronto, and Kelly has no plans to put them in stores. She likes the personal touch. Starting at $140; thebluntroll.com
Get More Visit
citybites.ca
34
CityBites
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
Have you noticed that some of Toronto’s
SPONSORED BY
BETTER LIVING CENTRE TORONTO
OCTOBER 25–27, 2013
COME & SEE MARTHA STEWART LIVE! PRESENTED BY
MICHAEL SMITH
CHUCK HUGHES
PRESENTED BY
S I P, S A V O U R &
SHOP FROM OVER 300 EXHIBITORS
& FOOD TRUCKS
LIVE COOKING DEMOS, HANDS-ON SEMINARS & WORKSHOPS PRESENTED BY
F O R T I C K E T S & I N F O R M AT I O N V I S I T
D E L I C I O U S F O O D S H O W. C O M SPONSORS
NADIA G
PA R T N E R S
A L S O O N S TA G E : N A D I A G , D AV I D R O C C O , MARK McEWAN, LY N N C R A W F O R D , BRIAN GLUCKSTEIN & MORE FOLLOW US @DELICIOUSSHOW
DELICIOUSFOODSHOW
DELICIOUSSHOW
PRODUCED BY
F O O D N E T W O R K I S A T R A D E M A R K O F T E L E V I S I O N F O O D N E T W O R K G . P. ; U S E D W I T H P E R M I S S I O N .
PRESENTED BY