NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2013
WINTER CHOWDOWN!
GET STUFF (p14)
Gifts, gadgets and edible delights
FESTIVAL (p18)
Icewine in Niagara
TRICKS AND TIPS FROM OUR FAVOURITE CHEFS, SOMMELIERS, AND BARTENDERS (P20)
SALOON STYLE (p11)
Allen’s is still doing it right
CHAMPAGNE TASTES (p9)
Zoltan Szabo on essential sparklers
GOLD PLATED (p8)
Lorenzo Loseto’s award-winning tuna
Get More Visit
citybites.ca
PLUS! BEST COOKIES + YEAR IN BEER + LANGDON HALL + NEWS TO EAT
UNCOVER THE RICHNESS WITHIN.
NOW AVAILABLE AT THE LCBO.
COOKING, FILMING, EATING, DRINKING We shot our Winter Chowdown in one crazy evening in late November with some of the city’s top talents in food, drink and hospitality. Edward Pond manned the video camera, and Rick O’Brien grabbed the still shots. Many thanks to everyone for their enthusiasm and creativity. We all made new friends—and we all learned new kitchen tricks. We hope you enjoy the recipes on these pages, and be sure to visit citybites.ca to see the videos, more photos, and more recipes. Cheers!
For Chef Amanda Ray’s recipe for crispy lamb belly with rosemary and currant lamb jus, visit citybites.ca
Pop the Bubbly Until January 1 Champagne, sparkling wine, cava and Prosecco are available by the glass or bottle this holiday season. Celebrate the wonderful year you’ve had and the wonderful year ahead. Cheers!
FRANK Favourites December 3 – 28 Take a trip around the world with a menu inspired by the flavours of countries near and far. Enjoy a selection of FRANK holiday favourites chosen by executive chef Jeff Dueck and chef de cuisine Jay Tanuwidjaja.
Celebrate 2014
with Brunch at FRANK Wednesday, January 1 11 am – 3:30 pm Enjoy a delicious brunch buffet, featuring festive classics for the whole family. $75 per person I $20 per child under 10
416 979 6688 | ago.net/frank Members always enjoy a 10% discount at FRANK (excluding alcohol).
FROM THE EDITOR Well, it’s been another great year in Toronto. Our choice of dining and drinking experiences just keeps getting better and vaster, with fresh new ideas popping up faster than Rob Ford at a street party. (I’m not sure what that means, but I like it.) Who knows what 2014 has in store for all of us obsessive eaters… more tacos, Latin joints, rum bars, rustic Italian (gots to have more rustic Italian!). And burgers. If nothing else, Toronto has proven that too many burger joints is still not enough burger joints. But everything finds balance, harmony, stasis. Our food scene is growing, evolving, mutating. And it’s certainly never dull. The talents we assembled for our cover story—The Winter Chowdown—is testament to that fact. We gathered to share ideas, eat and be merry. You know when you throw a party and everything just gels, and no one wants to go home? Yeah, it was like that. There’s a spirit of conviviality and collaboration happening in Toronto’s food scene that is very heartening. And this bodes well for our tummies. We hope you enjoy this issue. We’re taking a bit of a break, hunkering down in the kitchen, and will be back this spring with a whole new
contents November/December 2013
No. 49
Deliciously online at
citybites.ca
HOT STUFF Amanda Ray (Biff’s Bistro) with St-Canut pork dish (p. 22).
The Features 14 Stuff Gadgets, gizmos and tasty treats for your home and kitchen. 18 Icewine in Niagara It’s festival time this January, and we highlight the best
design. Happy New Year!
events for the 19th annual icewine celebration.
Dick Snyder, Editor • dick@citybites.ca
20 The CityBites Winter Chowdown
@citybites
city bites magazine
Great winter survival strategies (we mean, recipes) from some of the city’s best chefs, sommeliers and bartenders.
citybitestoronto
The Restaurant Pages Editor Dick Snyder/dick@citybites.ca Art Director Craig Sinclair/craig@citybites.ca Senior Editor Natalie Goldenberg-Fife/natalie@citybites.ca Wine Editor John Szabo Director of Vinous Affairs Zoltan Szabo Intern Sarah Wright
6 7
Beer And what a year it was.
8
The Dish Lorenzo Loseto’s tuna turns to gold.
Crumbs News for eaters and drinkers.
9
Head to Head ’Tis the season
to sparkle and shine.
11
Out & About Allen’s does it right on the Danforth.
12
Chef Q&A Jason Bangerter on the magic of Langdon Hall.
Contributors Stephen Beaumont, Dan Donovan, Konrad Ejbich, Nick Green, Arlene Hazzan Green, Beverley Hotchkiss, Alyssa Luckhurst, Simone Saunders, Zoltan Szabo, Sarah Wright Photography and illustration Rick O’Brien, Simone Saunders, Ross Spencer, Dick Snyder
The Experts 33 Grow
Sr. Account Manager Wendy Lyall Gardner/wendy@citybites.ca
34 Fishmongering
Email info@citybites.ca or visit www.citybites.ca Advertising Inquiries sales@citybites.ca
Made possible with the support of the Ontario Media Development Corporation
Dan Donovan on smart seafood shopping.
35 Szabo on Wine
PHOTO: RICK O’BRIEN
Arlene Hazzan Green’s winter book list.
Publisher Paul Alsop/paul@citybites.ca
36 The Ej
Konrad Ejbich toasts the wines of Thomas Bachelder.
37 Libations
Stephen Beaumont
crosses borders for beer.
John Szabo sings the praises of light red wine.
The End 38 One Last Bite
There’s always room for a good cookie.
City Bites Media Inc., 26 Dalhousie St. Suite 200, Toronto, ON, M5B 2A5, 647-827-1705. City Bites is published six times a year by City Bites Media Inc.
Cover and Page 3 photo by Rick O’Brien.
November/December 2013
5
BEER
By Nick Green | @_NicholasGee
THE RESTAURANT PAGES
A year in beer
CAN IT GET ANY BETTER FOR TORONTO BEER DRINKERS?
6
CityBites
CASK DAYS 2013 They came for the beer, stayed for the food.
beer! Bellwoods Brewery proffered a lamb shank with garam masala crème fraiche, setting a standard the city’s other beer parlours must heed—at their peril. Obviosuly, “big beer” is taking notice of all this. Goose Island Brewery, for example, has an eye on the gourmet beer segment—and now it has the marketing heft of Labatt, which bought the small Illinois brewery in 2011, behind it. In November, Nota Bene hosted a Goose Island dinner with a pairing menu that
could convert even the most skeptical wine snob. The manly finish of Goose Island’s Pepe Nero, with its smokey char notes, mirrored the flavour of a Cumbrae’s rib steak. And as a special treat, sippable sizes of the Bourbon County Stout were a splendid pairing with dessert—better than any espresso by far. With the culture of beer changing—to become even more ubiquitous—2014 looks to be an exciting year for man’s other best friend. We’re thirsty and ready. CB
PHOTO: CONNIE TSANG/CONNIETSANGPHOTOS.COM
Something’s been brewing in the city— and it’s going to make you reconsider your New Year’s resolution to cut carbs. We’re in for a big beer year. It’s true! Just look at what we accomplished in 2013. Toronto Beer Week featured more 125 events and the Toronto Festival of Beer sold out four months in advance. Amsterdam Brew House and Mill Street’s Beer Hall recently opened, and Left Field Brewery’s suds became available at 416 Snackbar, Cold Tea, and Food & Liquor. Toronto also gained another certified cicerone (aka beer expert) in Crystal Luxmore, the third woman in Canada to earn the illustrious title. All these developments are a sign of the times ahead: the drink, mostly associated with brodowns, is slowly but surely making its way onto the fancy part of the menu. With trendy beer dinners popping up more each month, the proof is in the pudding. (And the pudding is paired with a porter stout.) Where once pairing menus were for snobby wine connoisseurs, beer dinners are now the favoured way for brands to launch their latest product. Mill Street Brewery, for example, hosted such an event to launch their winter sample pack. Pair Cobblestone Stout with grilled bacon? That’s the way to ask guys to reconsider their frothy friend. Oh, and apparently the baked apple was really good with the Vanilla Porter—but I was too drunk by the sixth course to remember. To be clear, this beer-pairing trend is not new. Beerbistro has been hosting events for ages, bar Volo has decades of charcuterie and cheese boards under its belt, and newbie (relatively) Bar Hop came out swinging with a great kitchen. During the recent Cask Days held at Evergreen Brickworks in October, the presence of many of the hottest restaurants in town—like Bar Isabel and Parts & Labour—sent a message: Wine? Corkscrew that. This grub goes best with
RESTAURANTS // CRUMBS
By Nick Green | @_NicholasGee
... Parts & Labour chef Matty Matheson and a team of Toronto resto big-hitters are opening up P&L Burger in the former White Squirrel Snack Bar space. Word is their award-winning patty is making mouths
water around town (507 Queen St. W., partsandlabour.ca) ... The Roncy
Public ain’t no public house. The owners of this new grill and lounge
new bar, open Friday and Saturday on the restaurant’s second floor
(2013 Yonge St., lilbaci.com, @LilBaciTaverna) ... Aviv Mediterranean Restaurant, has just unleashed a brunch menu featuring soufflé pancakes, Greek yoghurt, and, of course, shakshuka. What’s shakshuka? Delicious… duh! (328 Dupont St., avivrestaurant.ca, @AvivRestaurant)
#CityBitesNews tells it all
dropped the house in an attempt to conjure the ambiance of a pub
... Zuimei Okuyama is serious about noodles. This Shokuno dojo-
while serving bistro-style comfort food. This new west-west-end spot
trained restaurateur is serving up authentic ramen at Touhenboku
is endeavoring to offer a late-night spot for those that crave something less hipstery than what the hood is known for (390 Roncesvalles Ave., @RoncyPublic)
... Oh boy! As the nights get longer, plan a long night
out at Oyster Boy with their new winterized menu. The new crab and spinach dip is sure to warm you from the inside out (872 Queen St. W., oysterboy.ca, @OysterBoyTO)
... Local Kitchen is also stoked about
PHOTO: (TOP) KATHERINE HOLLAND; (BOTTOM) ROSS SPENCER
their winter offerings. Their ever-changing menu is featuring tagliatelle
Ramen. Using the best fresh ingredients, of course: “the taste is just better,” says he (261 Queen St. W., touhenboku.ca, @TouhenbokuRamen)
... Queen East is going wild wild West. Boots & Bourbon Saloon, a new cowboy-themed hangout, is coming from Rock Lobster’s
Matt Dean Pettit and the crew from Muskoka’s Kee to Bala (Queen & Broadview, rocklobsterfood.com, @RockLobsterFood)
... Toronto
is getting sweeter by the day, as Rosewood Estate’s honey products
with fresh white truffle, and hand-rolled trofie
swarm the city’s hottest restaurants. Most
with walnut pesto and butternut squash. Part
recent, new DuWest location The Dock Ellis
owner Fabio Bondi wouldn’t spill the details,
has begun serving the locally produced
but let’s just say that he didn’t say that they
honey. Find their honeycomb and mead at
aren’t thinking of expanding in 2014. You heard
other hotspots, such as Woodlot, Jump,
it here first (1710 Queen St. W., localkitchen.ca,
Biff’s Bistro and Bellwoods Brewery
@LocalKitchen)
... Talk about a match made
(rosewoodwine.com, @RosewoodWine)
in heaven. Porchetta & Co. is pairing up with
... Ursa owner Jacob Sharkey Pearce is
Pizzeria Libretto for a new location on King
ambitious as ever, with goals of restructuring
West. All that’s left is to come up with their celebrity-couple tabloid name. We’re thinking Porchretto. LibchettaCo? (porchettaco.com, pizzerialibretto.com, @PorchettaAndCo, @PizzaLibretto)
the menu, adding new items, and possibly BURGER MADNESS Matty Matheson’s P+L Burger.
... There’s more cork in
adopting the new policy of bringing in only animal proteins that he’s had a hand in slaughtering—and then using every single piece. Wait! There’s more! Manager Robin
Corktown with the announcement of Gilead
Goodfellow is excited to introduce Atsushi
Wine Bar reopening for dinner beginning
Suzuki behind the bar. His bar experience
on Dec. 5. Expect Chef Jamie Kennedy’s
in Tokyo, London and NYC guarantees
signature mix of casual and elegant cooking,
that, between he and Goodfellow, you’ll
paired perfectly with the beverage input of
be getting worldclass cocktails no matter
Wine Director Emily Pearce (4 Gilead Pl.,
what night you come! (924 Queen St. W.,
jamiekennedy.com, @ChefJKennedy)
...
ursa-restaurant.com, @UrsaRestaurant).
Davisville has a new drinking hole. Drink up while downing rustic Italian food in Lil’ Baci’s
WINEBAR 2.0 Jamie Kennedy brings it
Send us your news, gossip, innuendo and hearsay! info@citybites.ca.
home1at Gilead. CityBites_Fall2013_1_CityBites 13-11-22 3:20 PM Page
Natural Food Market 348 Danforth Avenue 416.466.2129 thebigcarrot.ca
Organic Leaders for 30 Years! November/December 2013
7
RESTAURANTS // THE DISH
By Simone Saunders | @sexyfoodtoronto
Gold plated tuna Chef Lorenzo Loseto of George Restaurant took top honours among his Toronto peers at this year’s Gold Medal Plates competition with a dish of Ahi tuna that was simple perfection. Ah, but not so simple after all. A piece of fish is delicately wrapped with taut threads of shaved potato and briefly deepfried. A roasted pear salad and watermelon radish join creamy dollops of peppercorn mayo, which in turn offer their support to colourful sliced carrots with juniper sauce. “With my food it’s a very tricky proposition,” says Loseto. “I like to have a lot of flavours. I just like to eat like that—even at home I’ll go a little crazy. I’ll make six bernardin ad city bites Oct_Layout 1
salads just because we like to try each one. My dishes are a tasting menu within a tasting menu because every element can stand on its own. That’s what the food is all about.” The judges almost missed an opportunity to taste this stellar dish when Loseto’s deep fryers failed to ignite. But liftoff was achieved, his dish swept the panel, and he’ll be off to Kelowna in February to battle for Canadawide kudos. In the meantime, Loseto’s scholarly fish can be adored at George Restaurant (Yellowfin Tuna, $22). You be the judge. CB
George Restaurant
111C Queen St. E., Toronto georgeonqueen.com
2013-10-17 8:41 AM Page 1
www.bernardin.ca 8
CityBites
PHOTO: SIMONE SAUNDERS
LORENZO LOSETO LANDS A WINNER
RESTAURANTS // HEAD TO HEAD
By Zoltan Szabo | @zoltanszabo
A toast to six great Champagnes WITH A COLD WINTER LOOMING, MIGHT AS WELL DRINK THE BEST DISCREET
GRACIOUS
REFINED
Discreet bouquet of strawberries and rose petals, delicate yet persistent and fresh. Rather feminine, stylistically speaking.
Chouilly-based house producing noteworthy bubbly in a bright and clean style with opulent mid-palate and a serious dose of charm.
Refined and characterful with a suave aroma composition of soft red berries and floral accents. Plush texture and super-long finish.
vintages.com
melleceywinegroup.com
vintages.com
007
SUBTLE
INTRICATE
Full and complex with an exotic array of nuances, such as savoury quince, granadilla, sweet smoked paprika, summer hay and fresh honeycomb. Sheer finesse, in a masculine way.
Made in a consistently very appealing house style, combining full weight and wonderful intensity without compromising its overall balance and subtle personality.
Three years on the lees gives intricacy and depth. Apple, lime and hazelnut notes intermingle with a mineral and pleasantly piquant character. A fine choice for by-the-flute service.
tandemselections.ca
woodmanwinesandspirits.com
Ruinart Brut Rosé $98.95
Legras & Haas Brut Rosé $67
Krug Brut Grande Cuvée $271.95
vintages.com
Deutz Brut Classic $64.95
Moët & Chandon Brut Grand Vintage 2002 Rosé $89.95
Henriot Brut Souverain $59.95
vintages.com,
Celebrate The Season
ORDER ONLINE:
Order your holiday wines online and have them conveniently delivered to your home or office.
GIFT BASKETS: We can prepare customized gift baskets filled with wine, accessories and gourmet food items.
13TH STREET WINERY
1776 FOURTH AVENUE | ST. CATHARINES OPEN MONDAY - SATURDAY 11am to 5pm
905.984.8463 ORDER ONLINE!
13THSTREETWINERY.COM November/December 2013
9
RESTAURANTS // OUT & ABOUT
By Natalie Goldenberg-Fife | @NatalieGF + @Citybites
Keepin’ it real on the Danforth ALLEN’S IS A RESTAURANT THAT KNOWS ITS MANNERS AND ITS PLACE—AND HAS DONE SO FOR 27 YEARS
The Story Unlike a lot of restaurants hitting the headlines nowadays, it’s the word “tradition”—not “trendy”— that accounts for the restaurant success story of 27-year old Allen’s on the Danforth. In 1987, owner John W. Maxwell—who at the time operated the Italian Orso (now closed) in the entertainment district—wanted to open a less formal and more contemporary restaurant in honour of his Irish-American ancestry. “A professional restaurateur” says Maxwell, “is he who dictates the look, feel and smell of a place from its menu to the recipes to what is served to drink, how it is served and to how it tastes.” And so, the saloon-style pub and eatery became a personification of its owner: classic, gentlemanly, discerning and with a look and feel rooted in genuine old-school hospitality. “Hospitality,” says Maxwell “is about giving, not taking.” Named after Maxwell’s mentor, American mogul and restaurateur Joe Allen, best known for his chain of restaurants in New York, Paris and London, Allen’s has been thriving ever since. The Space
The warm and comforting old-school charm of the pub and restaurant is aided by the use of extensive dark wooden strokes, from the slick oak bar to the classic gingham-style white and blue tablecloths that provide a smiling backdrop to every comfort food dish that hits the table. Adorning the walls are photos of favourite patrons (John Candy and Rodney Clark) and theatre posters from the past. The restaurant and its legendary 90-seat patio—under one of Toronto’s oldest weeping willow trees—supply a total of 230 seats.
The Scene The crowds are composed of everything you would expect from a restaurant often referred to as an institution. Devoted locals, white-haired pub folk and numerous celebs ranging from Gord Downie to Dan Aykroyd have all gabbed and guzzled at one time or another at Allen’s. Canadian politicos like Jack Layton, Justin Trudeau and Dalton McGuinty have all made Allen’s their place to decompress and dine incognito. Also essential to the Allen’s cast of characters are Maxwell’s loyal staff members. Collectively, they have been with him for over 60 years. There is waiter Jason Massé (1988), bartender Daniel Heath (1993), chef Ponniah Vijeyaratman (1981) and devoted manager Dora Keogh (1981)— who is also a partner of the next-door Dora Keogh pub (she won naming rights in a draw).
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
The Drinks Maxwell’s noble hospitality aside, the extensive and sometimes antique-like drink list plays a major role in driving first-timers through the doors (and keeps them coming back). With more than 300 whiskies, 140 beers and one of the best VQA wine lists in the country at 175 bottles—Allen’s has a drink for every occasion. Single malt prices range from reasonable (Auchentoshan $8.25) to insane (The Balvenie 1952 Cask 191 50 year old at $1750). Of course there is plenty of Guinness—with 800 pints poured weekly (four of which Maxwell says he is responsible for)—and interesting beer selections like XO Cognac beer ($9.45) and Jack Daniels aged ale ($30).
DRINK UP 800 pints of Guinness hit this bar weekly.
‘Hospitality is about giving not taking.’
THE MAN Allen’s owner John W. Maxwell.
The Food Allen’s unpretentious menu isn’t designed to change your life and it likely won’t—but it’s hearty and tastes pretty good. “We make comfortable food that does not challenge diners. Allen’s is a place you come when you don’t want to go out,” says Maxwell behind an honest grin. The menu focuses on Ontario farmed meats and produce with Irish influences like the Dublin lamb shank braised in Guinness ($19.95). The no-fuss basic Angus hamburger ($12.95) is served open-faced on a sesame bun with onion, pickle and tomato. Chef Vijeyaratnam is responsible for the curry dishes, like butter chicken with onion, garlic, ginger and roasted cashews ($18.95). Devotees look forward to Allen’s annual Steak Festival in February, featuring the kinds of rare treats now for sale at Maxwell’s new shop on Queen East, Butchers of Distinction. CB Allen’s is open from 10:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. (Tues. to Sat.) and 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. on Mon. Last call for Sunday drinks is 12 a.m.
STARGAZING A wall of photos tells all.
November/December 2013
11
RESTAURANTS // CHEF Q&A
By Alyssa Luckhurst | @alyssaluckhurst
A country boy AT LANGDON HALL, JASON BANGERTER PLANS TO GET BACK TO THE LAND When Jason Bangerter was a young cook working abroad in Switzerland, he would be driven up the side of a mountain to the hotel where he worked every day. Gazing out the window he could look down and see the cows that produced milk for the hotel, the chickens that supplied their eggs, as well as the pigs they bought (and served). He could smell the wild garlic and thyme in the air. Long back from his travels and having just left his high-profile job as executive chef of Luma and O&B Canteen at the TIFF Bell Lightbox, Bangerter has found the perfect job to recapture the idyllic lifestyle he experienced in Switzerland. To cook off the land around you, there’s no better gig than running the kitchens at Langdon Hall in Cambridge, Ontario.
What’s working in the “country” like? I’ve worked in the Swiss Alps, small villages and major cities. You’re always cooking so there’s no difference in the kitchen except for maybe some of the ingredients you’re using. I have noticed a change in pace here, though. There’s no show that anyone’s going to… no one’s in a rush. How is your new team? It’s a completely new team. I don’t know anyone. Well, there’s a server who worked at Auberge du Pommier when I was there. There’s nine departments that I have to interact with every day. It’s so big, until two weeks ago I didn’t know where the staff change room was. I’ve been spending my time getting to know all of them and getting to know their strengths. Especially my two sous chefs. When you worked for the O&B group, how much opportunity did you have to work seasonally and locally? As much as you
CHEF’S GARDEN Jason Bangerter at one with nature.
12
CityBites
can in a city like Toronto. Like sustainable seafood, Luma used one hundred percent Ocean Wise fish. I believe in 100 km foods, working directly with farmers and producers and I’m involved with farmer’s markets. Being out here intensifies it, there’s just so much more available to me. I can walk outside with a basket and have enough vegetables and herbs for the night. I pinch myself, it’s crazy. The garden is huge and very bountiful. Everyone here is involved in the garden and foraging. It’s not uncommon seeing a cook run out to the garden during service and seeing what was picked on your plate 15 minutes later.
Describe your winter menu. I’m just starting
to makes changes to the menu. Going into winter we’re pulling all the roots, using every bit of what’s out there. There’s a little stream nearby and from the bank we’re pulling all the watercress and dandelions. We’re infusing oils, using up all the maple syrup, making braises, using hearty greens, kale, berries. The apples are getting kissed by frost so they’re getting really sweet. There’s so much. All these things you have to really work to get at the restaurant level, I can just walk outside and get it. Wild wood sorrel, wild mustard, chickweed. We’re coming to the time now when the garden’s finished, but we’ll still be using things from the farms nearby. Do you influence the garden, or does it influence you? There are two full-time
gardeners. We will be meeting shortly to discuss next year’s garden and the seeds I’d like to plant. This helps to develop seasonal menus. I can’t wait for summer, I’m so excited. The menu can evolve every week.
It’s not uncommon to see a cook run out to the garden during service... What are your short-term goals? In the downtime the focus will be on studying and research. Testing and experimenting with new dishes and exploring new ingredients on the grounds. There is also a reno in the works. There will be a new kitchen in March. State-of-the-art equipment, latest technology induction units, kitchen chef’s table, temperature-controlled prep room for pastry, and more! I’ve been involved in design and the vision of this development. On the path that your career is on, what does this new job mean to you? I’ve come a long way from washing dishes and working in a cafeteria. I’ve had excellent mentors, amazing opportunities and the support of an amazing wife and family. I’m still kind of dazed, it’s been a whirlwind. It feels fullcircle, it feels like coming home. CB
STUFF
By Sarah Wright
Mint Madness
Deliciously satisfying, this limited edition flavour might be the only thing that gets us through the holidays. This silky, luxurious blend is great served on the rocks or added to your morning coffee (that’ll be our secret). Peppermint Mocha Kahlua, $16.25/375 ml at LCBO.
Pots and Pints
Cooking with wine is so last season. The hottest new accessory in the kitchen is craft beer. David Ort’s recipes will show how to transform your draft from drink to delicacy. The Canadian Craft Beer Cookbook, $29.95.
Personalized Pecorino Indulgent Americano
14
CityBites
The Ferrari of coffee machines, this fully automatic brewing beast with unique touch screen might cost more than your first car, but it will make you go a lot faster.
Cheese is a dish best served monogramed. This glass set is not only stylish, but allows cheese to reach room temperature without drying out, meaning there is no need to crumble under the pressure of unexpected entertaining.
Krups Fully Automatic EA90
$63 (includes personal monogram) at
Series, $2999.99 at krups.ca.
Williams-Sonoma.com.
Funky Goodness
Canadian Classic
Wanda Srdoc imports white truffles from her family’s property in Croatia, and sells them to local gourmands for $7 to $12 per gram (until the end of the season Dec. 31). Her gift basket of truffle-infused popcorn, olive oil and salt is available year round.
What happens when two pretty nice guys from Vancouver have a Motts meltdown? Walter’s is the first all-natural, small-batch Caesar-mix made right here in the brunch capital of Canada. Just add vodka! Walter All Natural Craft Caesar Mix, $7.49 at The Mercantile, 297 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-531-7563
Gourmet-to-Go Truffle Popcorn Set, $24, whitetruffles.ca. To order, email: ilovetruffles@whitetruffles.ca
Eat Me
Gourmet-to-Go
Planning a whimsical tea party? This cookbook re-imagines the literary classic Alice in Wonderland as a culinary adventure. Enchanting illustrations peppered with recipes bring the books fanciful food references to life.
Perfect for the at-home chef who wants to call it quits with the cafeteria, this stainless steel vacuum food flask will keep food hot for six hours so you can be packing heat for your packed lunch.
Alice Eats: A Wonderland Cookbook, $34.95.
Thermo Pot, $46.95 at Outer Layer, 577 Queen St. W., 416-869-9889.
Old Man Winter
Muskoka’s Winter Beard is a rare, age-worthy beer designed to improve in bottle. This Vintage Double Chocolate Cranberry Stout spent one year in the cellar before release, in order for the flavours to fully come alive. It’s a Christmas miracle! $13.95/750mL at LCBO, select Beer Stores, and the brewery.
November/December 2013
15
STUFF
By Sarah Wright
Blades of Glory
This three-piece, high-carbon stainless steel set is designed to tackle tacky, sticky, hard and soft cheeses with clean slices, making it easy to wedge off snackable cheese chunks. $100 at Victorinox Swiss Army, 95 Bloor St. W., 416-929-9889.
Where’s the beef?
Ryan Donovan and Kurt Krumme deliver dryaged, traditionally raised deliciousness to local carnivores. Donovan sources from Dingo Farm outside of Bradford—he orders up a whole animal as soon as he’s got enough customers with $150 in hand, then he breaks it down into a veritable treasure trove of goodies. A typical box contains ground beef, stewing beef, steaks and some braising cuts, along with some sausages and beef stock. Chickens are available too. westsidebeef.com
Beer Bible
Tim Webb and Stephen Beaumont are back at the bar with their latest collaboration: a pint-sized pocket book showcasing more than 3000 beers from around the world. Comprehensive and easy to tote, it’s the essential guide for the thirsty traveler. The Pocket Beer Guide: The Essential Handbook to the Very Best Beers in the World, $15.95.
Fizz the Season
Life without soda doesn’t have much sparkle. That’s why this carbonation station is a great alternative to purchasing pre-packaged bottles or cans. Good for the environment and your wallet—and with over 100 flavours you can finally put Pellegrino in its place. The Source SodaStream, $149, sodastream.ca.
Imbibe Umami
What a difference a drop makes! Bar 40 bitters are tempting taste buds with four saliva-inducing flavours: Sweet, Sour, Salt and Umami. Bar 40 bitters, $19,
16
CityBites
bar40bitters.com.
Nectar of the Gods
Holistic Hatchery
Kitchen Chronicle
A rare whisky offering, Loki has descended from the remote Highland Park distillery. The complex 15-year-old single malt mirrors the unpredictable, shape-shifting nature of the mischievous Norse god that inspired it. It’s predecessor, Thor, sold out globally, so act fast to capture the elusive yet intriguing character.
Does ethical luxury exist? Introducing the first caviar producer in North America to be certified organic. Finally, this gourmet delicacy is guilt-free.
Famed Chef Daniel Boulud celebrates his epicurean anniversary (20 years at Daniel) with the release of a new cookbook. (Tip: You better have a lot of truffle on hand).
Loki, $300 at select LCBOs.
57 Yorkville Ave., 416-785-9100
Daniel: My French Cuisine, $60.
Northern Divine Organic Caviar, $88/30 g at Pusateri’s Fine Foods,
After 35 years of nurturing their land, the Bosc family has learned how to make the most of what their vineyards offer. Soil. Rainfall. Sunshine. Wine is the expression of how all the elements of the vineyard wines come together. celebrate nature’s contribution to making wine. Wine that’s grown just for you.
Earth &Sky
2011 RIESLING $14.95 LCBO #343350
201 0 PINOT NOIR $15.95 LCBO #343368
earthandskywine.com JOIN US ON
CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES
FOLLOW US ON @mbosc Scan the code with your smartphone to learn how music and wine can make a soulful pairing.
November/December 2013
17
NIAGARA ICEWINE FEST
By Beverley Hotchkiss
Celebrate Icewine GET THE MOST OUT OF THE GREAT ICEWINE EVENTS HAPPENING ALL OVER NIAGARA THIS JANUARY Who doesn’t like the sounds of laughter, the wafting smells of sweet and savory, the clinking of glass, the sweet nectar of the gods, the glittering glamour of ice sculptures and ball gowns? Thank the gods we live in Canada and thank the Niagara region for bringing us Icewine festivities throughout the month of January. This year brings new events, new talents, new releases and new culinary creators. In other words, there is a veritable “snowball” of events to choose from, allowing you to get involved in major galas, street events, tutored tastings or even a hockey game… So, lets get started!
ICEWINE 101 If you are new to Icewine or still keep it in the cellar wondering what to do with this sweet golden elixir, Niagara is the perfect place to come and obtain an understanding of the variances in varietals and the versatility of this wine and its place at our dining room tables. The Discovery Pass will elevate your knowledge by allowing you access to more than 40 wineries (you choose eight). It is here that you will gain insight into why the transformation of this frozen berry has become worldrenowned. You will learn how it is no longer simply a dessert wine but rather how it jumps around the dinner table, appearing in dishes (say, in squash ravioli
topped with Icewine prosciutto) or how it pairs so well with the bitterness of a frisée salad topped with the fatty richness of seared foie gras. Jan. 10-26, $40 per person.
Also during various dates in January, Get Schooled in Cool is an insider tasting
happening at six wineries. You get to meet the winemakers and learn firsthand all about the different icewine varietals and styles. Jan., 11-12, 18-19, 25-26, at Jackson Triggs, Reif Estate Winery, Trius at Hillebrand, Stratus, Niagara College Teaching Winery, Peller Estates Winery; $25 per person.
GLITZY GALAS Xerox Icewine Gala: A Bacchus Evening of Icewine and Revelry is
a night of glamour and entertainment, along with the largest tasting of internationally acclaimed VQA icewines and table wines. Guests can try dozens of wines alongside gastro-creations by the Fallsview Casino’s top chefs. Formal Attire is a must! Fri., Jan. 10, 8-11 p.m.
entertainment and an official opening toast will take place at this black-tie affair. Jan. 17, 8-11 p.m. $95 per person. An Icewine Festival Evening with Jamie Kennedy at Windows in the
Sheraton on the Falls hotel will feature an interactive tasting menu where you might be required to roll Icewine taffy or toast a golden Icewine marshmallow. Coats and—oh I love this!—hats are a must! Jan. 24, 6:30 p.m. $125 per person for dinner and wine; $199 per person for dinner, wine and accommodations.
$175 per person before Dec. 20; $185 after.
For the first time, the Sparkle and Ice gala will
MIXMASTERS Cheers to the Flash and Panache Icewine Cocktail Competition.
18
CityBites
take place at the centuryold Courthouse Ballroom in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Culinary sensations, live
STREET PARTIES At Twenty Valley Winter Winefest the streets of Jordan Village blossom with the warm bustle of bodies. It is a stellar street festival, and this year Food Network stars Danny Smiles and Chuck Hughes will
in Niagara
DETAILS AND DEALS
For more information and to receive $5 off each Icewine Discovery Pass you purchase, go to visitniagaracanada.com/icewinefest
ROCK ON Jammin’ at the Twenty Valley Winter Winefest.
If you have never experienced Perry Johnson of The Stone Road Grille, this is where you want your “Johnson” Experience. The man is full-on mad and it’s not necessarily about his cocktail but how he executes the cocktail that is starworthy. NOTL Icewine Village Jan. 18, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. and Jan. 19, noon- 5 p.m. Free/Purchase food and drink tickets at STREETWISE The fun ramps up at the Niagara-on-the-Lake Icewine Village.
the event. Flash and Panache Jan 18th., 9pm-11pm; free admission (tickets required for samples).
be on hand for daily cooking demos. The action never stops, with fashion shows, 30 wineries providing samples, a VQA lounge and—as the sun sets— free concerts with Hollerado and Treble Charger. Jan. 11, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. and Jan. 12, noon-7 p.m.; free admission (tickets required for samples).
Also on the Saturday night of the Twenty Valley Winter Winefest is the Steam Whistle After Party in Cave
Spring Cellars Barrel Cellar. And we all know that industry folk (winemakers/ chefs) love their beer. So if you want
to get up close and intimate, this is the party. Jan., 11th Doors open at 10:15 $30 (Tickets are limited)
The Niagara-on-the-Lake Icewine Village is the sister street festival to the
one in Jordan Village. Here you will have a chance to experience the gastronomic delights of 17 restaurants that have pooled together talented chefs to become “Signature Kitchens.” There are ice sculptures, 27 participating wineries, and live entertainment. On the Saturday evening NOTL breaks out the Flash and Panache: Icewine Cocktail Competition.
OFF THE CUFF A couple of events that aren’t what we would typically expect but will be great fun: the Ice-Breakers Comedy Festival taking place at local Inns and eateries around NOTL and the Annual Niagara Ice-winemakers vs. CHCH Sportsliners Charity Hockey Game. Comedy Fest, Jan. 25-26 and Hockey Game, Jan. 25, 1:30-3 p.m.; free admission (tickets required for samples). CB
November/December 2013
19
RECIPES // STEVE GONZALES, VALDEZ
@thevaldezTO + @latino5spice
The CityBites
CHEF VIDEOS
See the chefs in action at citybites.ca. Great tips, behind the scenes action, a few laughs…
Winter Chowdown
SAVOURY DISHES, DECADENT DESSERTS AND DELICIOUS DRINKS TO GET YOU THROUGH A LONG, COLD WINTER IN STYLE that are fun (and maybe a bit challenging) to prepare. And the chefs responded, riffing on recipes from their respective restaurants, or taking the opportunity to push into new
Quentão Braised Short Rib with Yucca Gratin and Chili Garlic Rapini Quentão is a Brazilian mulled wine. The version served at Valdez (on the roof!) has red wine, pears, cinnamon, cachaca, apples, orange liquor, lemon grass, clove, orange zest, water and ginger.
SHORT RIB BRAISE 3 pieces beef short rib, 2-in. cut 1 leek 1 carrot 1 Spanish onion 2 stalks celery 5 garlic cloves
Roast off veg (leek, onion, celery, garlic) in same pan used to sear the ribs (about 25 minutes in a 375F oven), and then deglaze with some Quentão. Remove from stove, add the rest of the ingredients to the pan and bring to a boil. Add bay leaf and thyme. Preheat oven to 325F. Pour liquid over ribs, cover and place in oven for about 2.5 hours. Remove from oven and let rest at room temp about 15 minutes. Strain liquid and simmer (skimming as you go) to reduce by about half. This is your sauce.
1/2 bunch thyme
20
2 bay leaves
YUCCA GRATAN
10 black peppercorns
2 lb yucca
500 mL (2 cups) Quentão (mulled wine;
2 lb Yukon gold potato
4 oz unsalted butter
see the Google!)
3 L (12 cups) chicken stock
4 oz 35% cream
500 mL crushed tomato
1/4 bunch thyme
Cut short ribs to single-bone portions. Season with salt and sear at a high temp with a little oil. Transfer to a braising vessel with enough depth to cover the ribs.
2 garlic cloves
CityBites
80 g (about a 1/4 cup) shredded
Gruyere cheese
Peel and cut yucca and potato into
directions. The results are fantastic—we sampled every one of them. We hope you do to, whether you tackle these recipes yourself or get one of our chefs to do it for you. Santé!
GET MORE...
Find Steve’s recipe for Buñuelos con chocolate y dulce de leche (donuts and hot chocolate) at citybites.ca.
roughly the same size pieces. Add to a pot and fill with water. Add garlic and thyme. Cook till they are tender. Mash (or use a ricer) while they are still warm. Mix in warm cream, butter and salt. Set in an ovenproof casserole pan and add cheese. Bake at 350F until cheese turns golden brown.
RAPINI Wash and cut down rapini into 4-inch pieces. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add rapini and cook only long enough so the greens remain crunchy. In a sautée pan add roasted garlic, sliced chilis and olive oil. Season and serve.
WINES BY ZOLTAN SZABO This dish matches nicely with Bonacchi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino ($35.80, thecaseforwine.com), a classic Brunello, not heavy, rather refined and ready. Spicy potpourri accents shine across dried berries and truffles, a sublime pairing with the fork-tender ribs.
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
We asked a few of our favourite chefs to think about classic winter comfort food, and then turn it on its head. We wanted bold flavours, interesting ingredients, and dishes
CHEF MASHUP On a cold day in November, our chefs gathered at a downtown Victorian home (with a huge kitchen) for a combined photo shoot, sampling session and party. A spirit of conviviality led to much laughter, and a little drinking. Here are some of the images—see more (and a series of chef videos) at citybites.ca.
RECIPES // AMANDA RAY, BIFF’S BISTRO
@ChefARay
St-Canut Porcelet with Choucroute Garnie, Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Apple Butter and Red Wine Jus
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(TURNIP SAUERKRAUT) 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) turnips, peeled and
shredded
15 g (1 tbsp) coarse salt 2 tsp juniper berries, ground 1/2 tsp black pepper, ground
Grate the turnip into a bowl and evenly mix in the salt, juniper and black pepper. Cover with parchment paper and cling wrap. Place another container on top to weigh it down. Ferment for two to three days at room temperature. Once it’s fermented, rinse and squeeze out any excess water. Yields 16 portions.
PORCELET 1 small smoked pork hock 225 g (1/2 lb) double-smoked bacon,
cut into fairly big lardons
Turnip sauerkraut 2 duck legs, confit (optional) 75 g (2.5 oz) lard or duck fat 1 onion, sliced 2 cloves of garlic, smashed 75 mL (1/3 cup) Riesling wine Water or chicken stock Pepper Brussels sprouts Apple butter Red wine jus
22
CityBites
At Biff’s Bistro we use a beautiful milk-fed piglet from a farm in Quebec called StCanut Farms. We buy whole pigs, and butcher them into whole muscles, getting three different cuts to use for our dish. At home, you could use any cut of pork. A nice pork chop would be fantastic, or pork tenderloin. Soak the smoked pork hock in water for 30 minutes, then put in a pot with water, bring to a boil and simmer for five minutes. Taste the water and if it is very salty repeat the blanching process one more time. In a hot rondeau pan, heat the lard and sweat the lardons to golden brown. Add the onion and garlic and continue to sweat until lightly browned. Add half of the sauerkraut, spreading it evenly over the bottom of the pan. Add the smoked pork hock and duck legs and cover with the remaining sauerkraut. Add the white wine and enough water or broth to cover by two-thirds. Season with a little pepper. Cover with parchment and foil and cook in the oven for two to 2.5 hours at 300F, or until the meat and sauerkraut are tender; almost all the liquid should have evaporated. Taste and adjust seasoning. (The dish will store in an airtight container for up to a week, and it freezes well.) Trim the bottoms off the Brussels sprouts
and cut in half, seasoning with salt, pepper, thyme and a sprinkle of olive oil. Roast at 350F for 10-15 minutes, or until tender. Reserve, and just prior to plating, sauté in a pan with two tablespoons of butter. There are a number of ways you can serve this dish. At Biff’s Bistro, we will pansear the pork and baste it in butter. We will then finish it in the oven at 400F, until it reaches 145F (medium-rare). Heat your apple butter and put around the choucroute at the base of the plate. In a sauce pot heat the red wine jus. Slice the pork if you are using pork tenderloin and sauce with red wine jus. Serves 4. Optional: If you have a great butcher shop you can buy boudin noir (blood sausage). Pan-sear the blood sausage and put in the oven to heat through for 10-12 minutes. When the pork and boudin comes out of the oven to rest, we heat the choucroute in a sauté pan with a quarter cup of chicken stock and a tablespoon of butter.
WHAT TO DRINK The savoury and sweet flavours of this “elevated” choucroute garnie are highlighted by the robust and slightly rustic West Avenue Heritage Dry Cider, crafted with 100% Ontario apples (westavenue.ca).
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
CHOUCROUTE GARNIE
Chef Ray’s apple butter recipe: citybites.ca/recipes Crispy lamb belly: citybites.ca/recipes
RECIPES // ROB GENTILE, BUCA
@Robb_Gentile + @BucaToronto
Duck Bigoli This is the way it’s done at Buca. The recipe for fresh pasta follows, but you can use dried. You can get Stanislaus 74-40 Tomato Filets at restaurant supply stores, or substitute fresh or canned tomatoes (use the best you can get… as long as they’re Italian they’re usually pretty good). The flour is from Ontario’s Arva Mill—see arvaflourmill.com for retailers.
DUCK RAGU 2.25 kg (5 lb) duck legs (skin removed) 90 g (3.5 oz) duck heart 90 g (3.5 oz) duck liver 90 g (3.5 oz) duck gizzard 200 g (7 oz) onion, dice 200 g (7 oz) carrot, dice 200 g (7 oz) celery, dice 1500 g (53 oz) Stanislaus 74-40 Tomato
Filets (or canned whole tomatoes)
3/4 piece of cinnamon sticks
Add seared duck legs, offal and sachet to the pan. Cover with 74-40 tomato filets (or canned tomatoes) and bring to a boil. Cover pot and braise in oven at 325F for 3-4 hours or until leg meat is falling off the bone. Cool the braise by submerging the pot into an ice bath. This will speed the cooling process. Once cooled, remove the duck legs from sauce and pull duck meat from the bones. Roughly chop the meat and set aside. Crush sauce with hands, added chopped duck back to the sauce and set aside for finishing.
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
1 bay leaf 5 cloves
PASTA DOUGH
10 peppercorns
500 g (1.1 lb) semolina flour
500 mL (2 cups) white wine
500 g (1.1 lb) all-purpose flour flour
Kosher salt, pepper, olive oil (to taste)
Combine cinnamon, bay leaf, cloves and peppercorns in a sachet. Set aside. Season duck legs with salt and pepper. In a rondeau pan, add olive oil and bring to high heat. Sear legs on both sides and remove from pan. Set aside. Sear duck offal, remove from pan. Set aside. Add mirepoix to pan and sweat. Deglaze with white wine and reduce by half.
Whole duck egg
(Arva Mill, if you can get it)
Combine all ingredients in a stand mixer outfitted with a dough hook attachment. Mix on speed 1 until well integrated. To shape: Cut 100 g (1/4 lb) blocks to be cranked through a Torchio hand press.
TO FINISH 15 mL (1 tbsp) extra virgin olive oil
1 piece medium-sized fresh garlic 500 g (1.1 lb) duck ragu 440 g (1 lb) fresh duck egg pasta 180 g (6 oz) mascarpone cheese 8 basil leaves
In a large sauté pan, heat oil on medium heat along with garlic and gently toast garlic long enough to be infused in oil. Add duck ragu to sauté pan and bring to medium simmer. Drop pasta into a pot of seasoned, boiling water. While pasta is cooking (about 1-2 minutes for fresh; 8-10 minutes for dried), add the basil and mascarpone cheese to the sauce and mix until fully incorporated. Remove garlic and discard. After pasta has been cooked to al dente, pull the pasta from water and add to the pan. Cook the pasta in the sauce for 1 minute and add a splash of hot water while adjusting the sauce consistency to your liking. Yields 16 portions.
WHAT TO DRINK How about a sparkling red? Camillo Donati Lambrusco from Perugini Fine Wines (perugini.ca) is traditionally fermented (like Champagne) and unfiltered, making for a robust, dry red with a delicate effervescence. Its silky and mid-weight texture matches the dish beautifully.
November/December 2013
23
RECIPES // HOWARD DUBROVSKY, FONDA LOLA
@foodcult + @FondaLola
Mexican-Style French Onion Soup
3 large sweet onions, sliced 3 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped 3 stalks celery, roughly chopped 3-4 dried mushrooms (shiitake) 2 dried pasilla chiles
Chocolate Chile Pot de Crème with Cajeta Cream
1 dried ancho chile 1 tbsp (15 mL) Mexican oregano 1 tbsp (15 mL) thyme 1 bunch cilantro, cleaned, stems
removed and reserved
1/2 cup white wine 1/2 Tequila
FOR BASE
8 cups (2 L) water
4 egg yolks
Duro viejo or queso Oaxaca to garnish
4 tbsp (60 mL) sugar
1 cup (250 mL) milk
(hard cheese)
1.5 cup (375 mL) heavy cream
Lime to garnish
6 oz (170 g) good quality dark chocolate
Salt and pepper
1 tsp (5 mL) cinnamon
FOR BROTH
1 tbsp (15 mL) pasilla chili powder
Sauté carrots, celery, mushrooms, pasilla and ancho for several minutes. Deglaze with wine and Tequila and cook for 1 minute. Add the thyme, oregano and stalks of the cilantro. Add water and boil for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then strain.
1 tsp (5 mL) cayenne
Sauté the onions on low heat in a little oil for 30-45 minutes (until soft and caramel-brown). Add the broth and cook another 30 minutes. Garnish the soup with the cilantro leaves, cheese and squeeze of lime.
24
CityBites
FOR CREAM WINES BY ZOLTAN SZABO An elegant bubbly, Legras & Haas NV Brut Tradition ($59.99, melleceywinegroup.com) has apple and lime notes coupled with a lovely florality and a great length. It’s not bone dry, and that’s exactly why it works wonderfully with the rich heat of Dubrovsky’s onion soup.
1/2 cup (125 mL) cajeta
(goat milk caramel)
1 cup (250 mL) heavy cream 1 tsp (5 mL) smoked salt
Whip the cajeta, cream and salt together until light and frothy (whipped cream texture). Pour over chocolate base when set.
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
FOR SOUP MIXTURE
Whip together eggs and sugar. Bring milk, cream, cinnamon and chilis to a simmer. Temper with the egg mixture. Add the chocolate and mix until fully incorporated. Pour into glass and let set in fridge.
RECIPES // ELIO ZANNONI, KI MODERN JAPANESE + BAR
Since 1985
Local Food • Local Farms Local People
Fresh Ontario Lamb Christmas Dry Aged Prime Rib Naturally Raised Farm Fresh Turkeys, Capon, Goose & Ducks all our favourites! Doin’ it right on the east side of town!
Tai (Sea Bream) with Cranberry Ponzu
1968 DANFORTH AVE. 416-421-1029 WWW.ROYALBEEF.CA
Many fine fish purveyors carry tai (sea bream)— try St. Lawrence Market or Hooked. 64 g (2.25 oz) tai (sea bream) 14 g (1 tbsp) horseradish truffle oil
PremiumNearBeer.com
7 g (1.5 tsp) cranberry ponzu sauce Shiso sprouts Bamboo leaf
Great Tasting & Award Winning Non-Alcoholic Beer
1 lime slice
HORSERADISH TRUFFLE OIL 150 mL (.6 cup) truffle oil 150 mL (.6 cup) fresh horseradish 300 mL (1.25 cup) high quality olive oil 25 mg (about 1.5 tbsp) salt
Sake by Michael Tremblay (Ki)
Combine all ingredients and mix well.
One of the most food-friendly sakes I have ever come across, Nambu Bijin “Southern Beauty” Junmai Ginjo (ozawa.ca) is a jizake or “craft” sake. It’s almost a chameleon, expressing aromatics of Asian pear, apple, melon and cantaloupe depending on its temperature. It’s balanced with a fruity mid-palate that is perfect for tempering the tartness and acid of the cranberries and ponzu.
CRANBERRY PONZU Combine and blend equal parts whole frozen cranberries and ponzu sauce. (Ponzu is a citrus-based sauce made with Japanese lemons called yuzu. It can be found at Asian food markets such as TNT and the St. Lawrence market. Store in a squeeze bottle.
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
TO ASSEMBLE Slice tai usuzukuri-style (thinly sliced sashimi) into 4 pieces. Roll 4 times. Place into the center of a cocoon spoon. Drizzle cranberry ponzu sauce on top of tai. Drizzle with horseradish truffle oil. Arrange sprouts on top and garnish with bamboo leaf and lime slice.
1-888-416-7125
GET MORE
Visit citybites.ca for a video of this dish and a recipe for Ki’s warm sake cocktail, the Star Spiced Ringo. citybites.ca/cocktails/starspicedringo
Delivered Right to Your Door! November/December 2013
25
RECIPES // NICK LIU, GWAILO
@ninjachefnick
most falling off the bone. Remove hock from the stock. Cool. Reserve and strain the stock. This will be the base for your soup noodles. When cool, grab the hock bone, twist and pull—the bone should come out, leaving the meat. Optional just for looks: Place hock meat in a Tupperware-type container and place a similar size container on top of the meat. Place a can on top to add weight and press the meat. Put in fridge until set, about 1 hour.
CRISPY SHRIMP 8 large shrimp 1 tbsp (15 mL) fish sauce 1/4 cup (62.5mL) corn starch Kosher salt
PORK HOCK MASTER STOCK 1 pork hock Vegetable oil for frying (use for crispy
shrimp as well)
8 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 1.5 in. piece ginger, peeled and chopped 4 coriander roots, clean chopped 2 red chili, chopped 15 white peppercorns 1/2 cup (125 mL) Chinese cooking wine 1/2 cup (125 mL) sweet soy (ABC) 1 cup (250 mL) oyster sauce 1 stick cassia bark (cinnamon stick) 3 star anise 1 cup (250 mL) soy sauce 8 cups (2L) chicken stock
26
CityBites
In deep pot with heavy base or a wok, fill less than half the pot with oil, heat oil over high to 400F (200C). Deep fry the pork hock until golden brown all over, 4-5 minutes. Remove and drain on absorbent paper. Pound garlic, ginger, coriander root, chili, and white pepper to a paste with mortar and pestle. Fry in a little oil until it smells crisp and nutty. Deglaze with wine, then add the rest of the ingredients. Bring to a boil, and skim the scum and oil. Simmer for 10 minutes and add your pork hock. Simmer over medium heat for 2-3 hours. To test the readiness, the pork hock should be soft to the touch and al-
WINES BY ZOLTAN SZABO The multi-layered and truly impressive Bachelder 2011 Wismer Vineyard Chardonnay ($44.95, Vintages) reveals remarkable purity and composure in a seamlessly balancing act, providing a superb textural accompaniment to this equally complex dish. A wine to be served at just below room temperature.
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
Hakka-Style Noodle Soup
Using the same deep frying oil for the pork hocks. Peel shrimp but leave enough shell at the tail so it can be grabbed. Devein by making incision along middle of exterior and extracting thin black strip. In stainless steel mixing bowl, toss shrimp with fish sauce. Put corn starch in separate bowl. Add shrimp; toss to coat. Shake off excess cornstarch and gently lower shrimp into oil. Fry 1 minute. Use slotted spoon to transfer to plate with absorbent paper. Season with salt. Tip: Slice some bits of pork hock and fry them until crispy. Reserve until ready to plate.
FRIED EGG 4 farm-fresh free-range eggs 1/4 cup (62.5 mL) sesame oil Kosher salt and pepper
Heat a nonstick pan over high heat and let it warm up. Add oil or and swirl to coat the pan. Oil should be very hot. I suggest doing one egg at a time. Crack the eggs directly into the pan. Once the whites have set on the edges and have gotten crispy, take a spatula and fold the white over the yolk. Cook the egg on both sides, 1-2 min or till golden brown with crispy edges. Stating the obvious: Try not to break the yolks. Drain on absorbent paper.
CUCUMBER SALAD 2 baby cucumbers, sliced thin on an angle 2 green onions, julienned 1 long red chili pepper, seeded and
julienned
1/4 bunch coriander, stemmed 1 tbsp (15 mL) rice wine vinegar Kosher salt
w w w. b w w i n e s . c o m
91J POINTS S OHN ZABO WWW.WINEALIGN.COM
BLCBO#: RUT RESERVE 325167 | $ 39.95
Mix all ingredients together and season with salt to taste.
GET IT NOW AT THE LCBO!
THE ASSEMBLY Braised pressed pork hock Fried egg
FO R M O R E I N FO R M AT I O N , C A L L U S AT
416.531.5553
Crispy shrimp Cucumber salad Master stock (heated up) Noodles 4 Bowls Wanda’s White truffle (optional)
In a pot bring water to a boil. Add some salt. Cook noodles as directed on package. Stating the obvious: The better the quality of noodle the better the soup will taste. I prefer to use fresh homemade noodles Unmold your pressed pork hock and slice, about ¼ inch thick (shred your unpressed pork hock). Place noodles in the center of your bowls. Place 5 slices of pork hock in one third of the bowl; place the egg and 2 crispy prawns in another one-third area. Place the cucumber salad on the top in the center. Pour 4 ounces of the hot master stock over the pork hock section of the bowl. If you fried pork hock bits, this would be the time to sprinkle them on for added texture. Shave Wanda’s White Truffles (whitetruffles.ca) over the whole dish— and enjoy!
GET MORE…
Talking soup with Nick Liu at citybites.ca. See videos with all the chefs in our series.
November/December 2013
27
RECIPES // DAVE MITTON, THE HARBORD ROOM AND THR. & CO.
@theharbordroom + @THRandCo
IGNACIO SOUR 1 1/2 oz Fortuna Mezcal 1/2 oz Benedictine 3/4 oz fresh lemon 1/2 oz orgeat syrup Egg white Hard ice Glassware: Old Fashioned Garnish: Orange zest and nutmeg
Dry shake the egg white alone in a cocktail shaker until it emulsifies, about 7 to 8 seconds, then combine the rest of the ingredients and dry shake for about 5 to 6 seconds. Then add ice and shake hard until blended and chilled, about 5 to 6 seconds. Fine strain into ice-filled glass and squeeze orange zest across the drink, give it a twist and stick in the top of the drink, then lightly grate some nutmeg over the top.
Four Wintry Cocktails COULD HAVE BEEN A LADY
MARY JANE WATSON
2 oz Beefeater gin
2 oz Osborne Premium Cream Sherry
1/2 oz Calvados
1 oz Campari
3/4 oz fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth
1 oz raspberry/pear shrub
2 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters
Egg white
Hard ice
Hard ice
Glassware: Coupe
HARBORD STREET PUNCH
Glassware: Coupe
Garnish: Orange zest
Makes about 18 drinks.
Dry shake the egg white on its own in a cocktail shaker until it emulsifies, about 7 to 8 seconds, then add the rest of the ingredients and dry shake for about 5 to 6 seconds. Add ice and shake hard until blended and chilled, about 5 to 6 seconds. Fine strain into chilled glass. Serve straight up.
Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass. Add ice so mixing glass is three-quarters full and stir about 20 to 25 times. Strain into a chilled glass and serve straight up. Squeeze orange zest across drink and give it a twist and drop it in.
750 mL Dillon’s Gin 12 oz Compass Box Oak Cross Scotch Zest from 6 large lemons Zest from 3 blood orange Zest from 2 grapefruit 3 cinnamon sticks (broken up) 8 oz fresh lemon juice 3 oz blood orange 1/2 cup brown sugar 4 oz hot water 1/2 cup honey 40 oz soda water Large cube of ice Glassware: Old Fashioned
PHOTOS: RICK O’BRIEN
Garnish: Grated nutmeg
In a bowl, muddle the zest with the sugar and let stand for 25 minutes. Muddle again, then add hot water and honey and stir until they are dissolved. Fine strain the juice into the mix, then add the gin and scotch and refrigerate. To serve, pour 2 ounces over large cube of ice, top with soda water and garnish with lightly grated nutmeg.
GET MORE… For video of Dave Mitton in action, and more photos, visit citybites.ca.
November/December 2013
29
RECIPES // DAVID CHOW, THE EATERY
@davidhchow + @theeateryTO
Croquembouche For ultimate efficiency, almost all the recipe components should be made ahead of time allowing for stress-free full assembly. Special equipment: blowtorch (see “the assembly”).
PÂTE À CHOUX 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) water 9 tbsp (135 mL) butter, unsalted 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar
to 350F and continue baking for additional 25 minutes until the choux are golden brown. (Note: trust the oven. Do not open door for a peak as the choux may collapse.) Remove from oven and pierce hole in bottom of each choux to release the steam. Return the tray of choux to the now-turnedoff oven and leave inside to continue to cool down. Make sure choux are completely cool before proceeding onwards.
1/2 tsp (2.25 mL) salt, kosher 1 1/2 cups (375 mL) flour, all-purpose 8 large eggs
Preheat oven to 425F. Boil water, butter, sugar in a saucepan. Remove pan from heat and add flour all at once. Stir the flour into the liquid until a thick paste forms. Return saucepan to stove and heat the thick paste until all the flour has been incorporated (aka no lumps) and the dough has formed a ball. Transfer mixture to stand mixer bowl. Mix on the lowest speed with a paddle attachment, add the eggs one at a time making sure each egg is incorporated before adding the next one. Scrape the bowl often. The batter should be supple and shiny. Pipe batter into 2.5 x 2.5-inch stainless steel rings on a parchment-lined baking tray until half full. Place another baking tray and cast iron pan on top to weight it down. Bake for 10 minutes then turn oven down
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CityBites
WALNUT & CHESTNUT PASTRY CREAM 1 L (4 cups) cream, half-half (18%) 1/2 cup (125 mL) granulated sugar 1/2 cup (125 mL) brown sugar 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) kosher salt 4 eggs, large 6 tbsp (90 mL) cornstarch 1 Vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
and seeds scraped (can substitute
vanilla extract)
4 tbsp (60 mL) butter, unsalted 1/2 cup (125 mL) walnut pieces, toasted
and finely chopped
MILK CHOCOLATE WHIPPED CREAM
1/2 cup (125 mL) chestnut purée,
Reminder: Recipes should be made a day in advance to allow time to cool properly.
2 tbsp (30 mL) whiskey of choice
2 cups (500 mL) milk chocolate
(Valrhona Caramelia is best)
1 3/4 cup (437.5 mL) whipping cream (35%) 1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise
and seeds scraped (or substitute
vanilla extract)
Melt chocolate and set aside. Bring cream, scraped vanilla seeds and pod to a boil. Strain cream. Pour hot cream over the melted chocolate. Mix from the centre with a rubber spatula in order to create a shiny and elastic core. Maintain this texture throughout. If you have an immersion blender available, emulsify while being careful not to incorporate air bubbles. Store in a tightly sealed container in fridge for 8 hours.
unsweetened
Boil cream, both sugars, salt and scraped vanilla pod and seeds. In large mixing bowl, whisk egg and cornstarch together until there are no lumps. Make sure to whisk constantly, carefully streaming in at least half the hot cream mixture into the egg mixture to bring it up to temperature. Pour heated egg mixture back into saucepan and cook over medium-high heat while whisking constantly till sauce thickens; simmer for one minute. (It should have the consistency of pudding). Remove saucepan from heat and add the butter and whisk to incorporate. Strain the mixture—to remove the vanilla bean and any cooked bits—then whisk in the walnut pieces, chestnut purée and whiskey.
Cover with plastic wrap (directly on the surface of the cream) and chill completely (at least 6 hours). Tip: Use your bean to make vanilla sugar. Simply rinse off and dry the vanilla bean. Put into jar of granulated sugar and allow to infuse.
DARK CHOCOLATE WHISKEY SAUCE 1 cup (125 g) dark chocolate (Valrhona
Guanaja dark chocolate is best)
.4 cup (100 mL) whole milk (3.25%) 1 1/2 tbsp. (22.5 mL) granulated sugar 3 tbsp (45 mL) whipping cream (35%) 2 tbsp (30 mL) whiskey of choice
Heat mixture slowly and evenly. Recipe can be made ahead. Simply reheat over double boiler or with quick 10 second
bursts in a microwave while stirring frequently to avoid scorching.
THE ASSEMBLY Whip the milk chocolate cream mixture with a whisk (or with whisk attachment in mixer) until it forms soft peaks like soft whipped cream. Fill a piping bag with mix and fill the choux through the hole to halfway. Whip the pastry cream mixture with a spatula to loosen its texture and make sure it is completely smooth before using. Fill piping bag with the cream and fill the other half of the choux with the pastry cream. Sprinkle the top of each choux with granulated sugar and use a blowtorch to brûlée each until a crisp caramel shell
forms on the top. Stack the choux in a pyramid formation on a flat dish or pedestal. Bring to the table and either pour chocolate sauce over entire pyramid (a little messy but oh so fun!) or serve individually with a big dish of chocolate sauce.
GARNISH For plated dessert, optional: Candied chestnut pieces Crushed walnut sesame “brittle” Smoked lemon salt Chestnut honey ice cream Fried sage leaves Meyer lemon curd
GET MORE…
Visit citybites.ca for video of David in action, and some useful tips.
WINES BY ZOLTAN SZABO Rich, velvety and super tasty, Rosewood Estates 2008 Select Barrel Aged Mead Royale ($14.95, Vintages) offers weight and flavour composition that’s reminiscent of this decadent dessert. The flavours complement and contrast wonderfully.
November/December 2013
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www.belairerose.com | Distributed by Kolonaki Group – www.kolonakigroup.com | Please enjoy responsibly
EXPERTS // GROW
By Arlene Hazzan Green
An essential winter Reading List
PHOTO: ARLENE HAZZAN GREEN
NEXT YEAR’S FABULOUS GARDEN IS JUST A PAGE OR TWO AWAY You may be kicking and screaming your way into winter but it’s time to talk turkey. Thanksgiving is long gone and the 2013 growing season has come to an end. But there is much to be celebrated as a groundswell of new vegetable gardens has sprouted: from rooftops to allotments, from fire escapes to front yards, from spontaneous guerilla gardens to pristine edible landscapes. More and more people are growing and eating their own food. But people who love to grow must face the fact that it’s time to abandon the frozen soil and seek refuge in the warmth of the great indoors. Grow-aholics will still maintain herbs on a windowsill or nurture microgreens in a fancy fridge-like growing cabinet, while some will extend their season outdoors using tunnel cloches, cold frames and greenhouses. But others prefer to put down their hoe, put up their feet and enjoy a warm drink by a fire while reading a good book. And who can blame them? Winter is the perfect time to regenerate, rethink, and dream of gardens yet to come. So grab your Kobo, pull out that library card or take a trip to your local bookstore and dig into this must-read selection of books. For DIYers, you can’t beat The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control: A Complete Guide to Maintaining a Healthy Garden and Yard the Earth-Friendly Way by Frank Tozer,
who expertly guides the reader through
the intricacies of making quality soil, raising seedlings indoors, garden planning, crop rotation and building raised beds and greenhouses. The book is loaded with diagrams and useful charts, making it a number one garden companion for the dedicated at-home grower. Garden nerds will love the juicy detail and fascinating photographs in The Organic Gardener’s Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control, edited by Barbara W. Ellis. This well-organized encyclopedia will assist in the diagnoses and troubleshooting of everything from leaf damage to spotted tomatoes, and help differentiate insect friend from foe. Neat and tidy types will love Mel Bartholomew’s All New Square Foot Gardening: Grow More in Less Space, especially if your own garden space is at a premium. This book provides a stepby-step approach to growing more food in less space using raised beds and an ingenious alternative planting method to traditional rows. For foodies with a discerning palate for quality writing, Apples to Oysters,
WINTER COMFORT Good books, good wine, good gardening.
tional farming practices and celebrates the diversity and ingenuity of a new crop of Canadian organic food producers. And if kitsch is your thing, pick up the nostalgic but still relevant The Old Farmer’s Almanac Canadian Edition, where you’ll find region-by-region weather forecasts for 2014, planting tables, astronomical charts and “zodiac secrets”. A great year-round reference and bathroom reader—who can resist? CB
A Food Lover’s Tour of Canadian Farms
by Margaret Webb is sure to please. This utterly engrossing culinary adventure is part travelogue, part cookbook and sometime political manifesto. Webb fearlessly digs into her own past as a farmer’s daughter to reveal the dangers of conven-
MARC GREEN AND ARLENE HAZZAN GREEN own The Backyard Urban Farm Company. BUFCO brings organic vegetable gardening to urban and sub-urban homes and businesses throughout the GTA. Visit bufco.ca.
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EXPERTS // FISHMONGERING
By Dan Donovan | @HookedInc
Seafood spirit MAKE THE RIGHT CHOICES THIS HOLIDAY WHEN INDULGING IN OCEAN DELIGHTS Canadians will consume a tremendous quantity of seafood over the holiday season. Seafood choices will range from humble to extravagant. But remember, each choice is an opportunity to make a statement about how we view the stewardship of our shared resources. Consider this when buying these popular holiday gifts from the sea: SHRIMP seem to be everywhere at this time of year and few seafood products raise more controversy. Wild shrimp harvesting has long been criticized for high-energy consumption and wasteful catching
Sustainably raised Canadian oysters are widely available. processes. At the same time, shrimp farming practices in many parts of the world have been destructive to local environments, dangerous to workers—and yield a product that is laden with toxins and chemicals.
International pressure has resulted in vast improvements and a number of better choices today. The Ocean Wise approval stamp is your best bet to get a product that has been raised and harvested responsibly. LOBSTERS fresh-caught in December by independent fishermen on the Bay of Fundy and the South Shore of Nova Scotia are considered the finest of the season. These lobsters have hard shells and full meat content. DUNGENESS CRAB from the B.C. coast is another great sustainable choice. This is a well-managed fishery of mostly small operators. These crabs can be purchased live, or for simplicity you can buy the meat fresh or frozen in most markets. CARP is an essential ingredient in many dishes originating in Central and Eastern Europe. So important that settlers to North America introduced the species to lakes and streams when they discovered it did not exist naturally. Carp are actually now crowding out many native fish. Despite massive efforts at control, experts believe
the best plan may be to renew interest in carp as a food fish. Carp is delicious smoked or in an Eastern Europeaninspired fish stew. OYSTERS are a great way to begin any festive event. Many family holiday traditions involve freshly shucked oysters, oyster stews or oysters added to turkey stuffing. Throughout Canada, most oysters are in peak season at this time of year. Sustainably raised Canadian oysters are widely available. Look for heavy oysters with tightly closed shells that have been harvested within two weeks. Oysters will stay alive and in good condition stored in the bottom of your refrigerator covered with a damp cloth for days. SMOKED FISH can be featured on many party menus. If you’ve made the choice to not support caged salmon farming, make sure that you look for smoked salmon made from wild-caught Pacific Salmon. Alternately, try a locally made smoked trout. CAVIAR is perhaps the apex of luxury seafood. Traditionally, caviar has been made by curing wild sturgeon eggs. However, the same technique is used on other eggs such as those from salmon, trout and whitefish. While wild sturgeon is now considered critically endangered, producers such as Northern Divine and Breviro Caviar are making high-quality caviar from farmed sturgeon eggs. But there remains a brisk trade in illegally harvested caviar, so trust Ocean Wise as your buying tool. CB
the Stratford Chef School and a veteran of the Toronto restaurant scene. He and his wife Kristin run Hooked (hookedinc.ca), Toronto’s only seafood retailer 100% committed to sustainability.
2 3 3 6 Lak e Shore B lvd. W es t 34
CityBites
7 7 0 0 Pi n e V al l ey Dri ve
www.fbi pi z za.c om
PHOTO: 123RF.COM
DAN DONOVAN is a graduate of
EXPERTS // SZABO
By John Szabo MS | @johnszabo
For the love of light reds VERSATILE, EASY DRINKING AND FRIENDLY ON THE WALLET, THESE SHOULD BE YOUR WINTER GO-TOS Light reds have their place any time of year. They’re a perfect in winter, when there’s too much white outside to have the same in your glass, but you’re not ready for the Big Red. On sultry summer days, light reds are the only sensible option, unless you can nap afterwards. And in autumn or spring, they’re like your favorite seasonal transition coat, comforting and warming, but neither bulky nor heavy. Sommeliers, too, love light reds. They’re low in alcohol, so the deuce can enjoy a bottle without getting inebriated. With their quivering acids and ethereal tannins, they’re as pliable as a yogini, able to twist and fold into the pairing, whether fish, poultry, red meat or vegetarian. Oh, and the extra bonus? They’re usually at the lower end of the price scale. Here’s a short list of grapes on every savvy somm’s speed dial list of go-to, food friendly reds, plus examples. Be sure to ask for these lightly chilled. PINOT NOIR The mac daddy of them all, Pinot beguiles with its silky texture and tart red fruit. Look for cool-climate variations, not those suspiciously deep-coloured, 14.5% alcohol Merlot look-a-likes. You’ll find safe bets from Ontario, Central Loire, Alsace, Germany, Austria, Oregon, Victoria and Tasmania, Sonoma Coast or the Santa Rita Hills. Try: Rosewood 2011 Pinot Noir Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara ($21.95, LCBO #112177).
GAMAY Gamay is the carafe wine of Lyon, a town where the people know how to eat and drink. All crunchy red fruit and salivainducing acids, Gamay is invariably best served with a light chill. Cool spots: Beaujolais, Touraine, Ontario, B.C.
and Chiavennasca. Look for Valtellina Superiore, Ghemme, Carema, Bramaterra and Costa della Sesia. These “mountain” Nebbiolos are fragrant, firm and beautifully zesty. Try: Ferrando 2008 Carema ‘Etichetta Bianca’, Piedmont, Italy ($48.50, Cavinona, cavinona.com)
Try: Marcel Lapierre 2012 Vin de France ‘Raisins Gaulois’, Beaujolais, France ($16.98, Barrel Select, barrelselectwines.com).
CABERNET FRANC Head straight for the sub-$20 bottles. At the lighter end cab franc can be a bit green, so you’ll have to dig green salads, but with raspberry dressing. I love the fragrant, floral, delicate side of the grape, especially from Ontario and Touraine. Try: Domaine de la Garrelière 2011 Touraine, Loire Valley ($20.95, The Living Vine, thelivingvine.ca)
BARBERA The epitome of light body, low tannins and succulent acids, Barbera is Milan’s jug wine. It grows all over northwestern Italy, just avoid the fancy-shmancy oak aged stuff (i.e. don’t pay more than $20), chill, and have at it. Try: Fontanafredda 2012 Briccotondo Barbera, Piedmont, Italy
SANGIOVESE Again, avoid the premium bottles; $20 gets you a lively Sangiovese unencumbered by oak. Basic Chianti or Sangiovese di Romagna are great options. I love the savoury, herbal, umami-rich side of the grape. Try: Fattoria Zerbina 2011 Sangiovese di Romagna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy ($19, Lifford, liffordwine.com)
TEMPRANILLO (aka Tinto Roriz) Seek examples from Spain’s higher elevations, like Ribera del Duero or Rioja Alta/Alavesa. Wines labeled jovén (no wood) or crianza (minimal wood), deliver the light red experience. In Portugal, look for Tinto Roriz from the Dão. Try: Domino de Punctum 2012 Lobetia Tempranillo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain ($12.95, The Living Vine, thelivingvine.ca). CB
($15.95, LCBO #72348)
SPANNA/CHIAVENNASCA (aka Nebbiolo) No, not Barolo or Barbaresco, we’re talking Nebbiolo grown in northern Piedmont and the Valtellina, where it’s known as Spanna
JOHN SZABO is a Master Sommelier and principle critic for WineAlign.com. He’s probably sipping a tangy red right now, or wishing he were.
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EXPERTS // THE EJ
By Konrad Ejbich | @WineZone
Canadian abroad THOMAS BACHELDER MAKES STUNNING WINES IN ONTARIO, OREGON AND BURGUNDY The wines of Burgundy have long been of special interest to wine aficionados. Overwhelmingly, they are made from a single grape variety: Chardonnay for the whites and Pinot Noir for the reds. These are varieties that, at their best, display characteristics of power, elegance, richness, delicacy and the ability to age. They brilliantly reflect minute differences in terroir, vintage and winemaking. Terroir encompasses soil’s chemical composition, its friability and its ability to retain or release moisture. It comprises altitude and aspect. Terroir considers proximity of the vines to each other and, even, whether the orientation of the vineyard rows is north-south or eastwest. Factors that affect the quality and nature of the harvested grapes include total hours of sunshine, amount of heat, the variance in daily high and nightly low temperatures, the amount of humidity, and, especially, the volume and timing of any precipitation. Rain in early summer is good; during harvest, it’s very bad. Winemaking—the least reliable or predictable factor— Bachelder wines are is the influence distributed through Ponte Wines & Spirits: humans have over the pontewineandspirits.com, winemaking process. 416-253-4974 Some are good, some less so, but all winemakers love to experiment. Wood, concrete or stainless steel fermenters? Tall, skinny tanks or short, squat ones? What type of casks for aging? French, American, Hungarian,
Slovenian or one of the newest products on the cooper’s supply list, Canadian oak? How many tons of grapes to harvest per acre? There are many ways for an individual to put a personal stamp on their winemaking and each adds a wild card to the taste and style of wine. So when Burgundian winemakers produce a collection of wines from tiny parcels within famous vineyard blocks throughout the region over several vintages using classic production techniques, they eliminate all the variables but one, allowing us to focus on the micro-differences between source vineyards. Thomas Bachelder, the Canadian winemaker who helped establish the international reputation of Canada’s Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard, is the first to experiment with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir produced and bottled in key regions—historic Burgundy, New World upstart Oregon, and our own proud vineyards of Niagara. Using the same Burgundian techniques he learned in France, he’s made more than a dozen wines that highlight the unique characteristic that geeky tasters crave: terroir. I recently spent several hours tasting through most of his wines, all but one produced in 2011. Four were from Ontario, four from Oregon and the remaining six hailed from great vineyards of Burgundy. Amounts made are miniscule. Bachelder produced two barrels (48 cases) of 2011
WINE PIONEER Bachelder’s terroir explorations make for great drinking.
eight barrels of each of the other wines. The one exception is his delicious 2011 Niagara Chardonnay (Vintages #302083, $29.95), of which he produced more than 1,200 cases. Some LCBO may still carry a few bottles of his 2010 Bourgogne Chardonnay (Vintages #272005, $29.95)
and his 2011 Oregon Chardonnay (Vintages #273334, $29.95).
Two single vineyard Chardonnays are also listed: Bachelder 2011 Saunders Vineyard Chardonnay (Vintages #324103, $44.95) and 2011 Wismer Vineyard Chardonnay (Vintages #345819, $44.95). I loved Saunders for its full, fat, sweet ripeness but favoured Wismer for its leaner, cleaner, more focused fruit. The most important lesson learned: We have the raw materials to make wine that’s as good as the best wines of France. We are as good as the best. Pity the liquor board deigned not to list more of the foreign products so Ontario tasters could experience the full range. CB
“Lowrey Vineyard” Pinot Noir (Vintages #361816, $44.95), and from three to
KONRAD EJBICH is an author, columnist, photo/videojournalist, and host/producer of Pro & Kon on YouTube. Follow him on @WineZone and visit kwafwine.ca.
How to Buy Wine from an Agent
Buying consignment wines from an agent is easy. Go online and get their list. Phone or email your order. Wait for delivery. Repeat.
B&W Wines 416-531-5553 www.bwwines.com
B&W Wines offers a portfolio of iconic and boutique wineries: Penley Estate, Lillypilly, Two Hands and Jansz from OZ; Darioush and La Crema in California; Argentinean Bodegas Weinert; Barolos from Brovia, Rhone-Ranger Jean-Luc Colombo and Douro producer Quinta de Ventolezo.
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CityBites
Lifford Wine Agency 416-440-4101 or toll-free 1-877-272-1720 www.LiffordWine.com
2010 Winner - VINTAGES Portfolio Award of Excellence Serving the hospitality sector and private consumers in Ontario since 1985 with a focus on family owned and operated wineries that are equally as passionate about great wine as we are. Maison Louis Jadot, Felton Road, Felsina and Hollick, to name just a few.
EXPERTS // LIBATIONS
By Stephen Beaumont | @BeaumontDrinks
Nearby beer HIT THE ROAD AND EXPLORE THE BEER FROM OUR PALS IN NEW YORK AND VERMONT The good news: The LCBO’s enthusiasm for craft beer has grown by leaps and bounds over the last few years. The bad news: Even so, beer selection in Ontario lags badly behind that of even moderately ambitious beer bars and retailers in our neighbouring states. The conclusion: Road trip! Here are some ideas. SHORT HAUL Destination: Buffalo, New York Just three years old, the Blue Monk (727 Elmwood Ave., Buffalo) has established itself in short order as not only the best beer bar in Buffalo, but one of the finest in upstate New York. Even when not hosting one of its regular themed festivals or promotions, the Monk’s 32 taps carry a healthy mix of domestic U.S. brews and
JEW LIKE BEER? Get thee to Schmaltz Brewing.
much-sought-after imports, while the bottle list reads like a who’s who of cult favourites. And when you wake up nursing a hangover the next morning, you’ll want to pay a visit to the relocated digs of Premier Gourmet (3904 Maple Rd., Buffalo), long the best bet for beer buying in the Buffalo area and now with 20 taps for growler filling. A BIT FURTHER Destination: Albany, New York About a half-hour’s drive north of the New York capital, the new home of Shmaltz Brewing (6 Fairchild Sq., Clifton Park)
is a brewery very much worth the trip. Although some might be tempted to write off the maker of He’brew and Coney Island beers as purely a novelty act, there is serious brewing cred behind such outwardly jokey names as Funky Jewbelation and Rejewvenator. Try a few samples in the tasting room—don’t miss the pomegranateflavoured Origin!—and then load your trunk with bottles before driving into Albany for dinner at The Merry Monk (90 North Pearl St., Albany), a recent arrival and much-needed breath of fresh air on the local beer scene. GOING THE DISTANCE Destination: Burlington, Vermont For a small city, Burlington, Vermont has a lot going for it, including an eminently walkable downtown that’s home to
• custom design & build • Premier Cru kit racks • wine coolers & accessories
RWC_CB_QP.indd 1
sufficient beer destinations to satisfy even the pickiest of beer aficionados. The cream of the crop, however, is The Farmhouse (160 Bank St.), a restaurant and bar that is as restful in summer on its backyard beer garden as it is cozy in its low-lit parlor during the wintertime. Of course, an extensive draught, cask and bottled beer list doesn’t hurt, especially when it is complemented by a fine array of ciders, wines by the glass and refreshingly affordable cocktails. Of course, after a night or two at the lovely new Hotel Vermont—itself with a more than respectable selection of locally made beers and spirits available in the lobby bar—no respectable beer traveller would leave northern Vermont without first driving to Waterbury to buy a flat or two of cans of Heady Topper, the popular 8% alcohol IPA from The Alchemist (35 Crossroad, Waterbury), which, despite its outrageously excessive hype, is actually very much an ale worth pursuing. A new retail location is slated to open before Christmas; check their blog for details. Note: Each drinking-age passenger in a vehicle is legally allowed to bring back up to 8.5 litres of beer, or the equivalent of about 24 x 12 ounce bottles or cans. Many border agents will let you exceed the limit a bit, but if you attempt to bring more into Canada and do not declare it, you run the risk of a fine and the confiscation of your beer. CB STEPHEN BEAUMONT occasionally makes south-of-the-border beer runs from his home in downtown Toronto, strictly for research purposes. His new book is The Pocket Beer Guide, co-authored with Tim Webb.
your wine deserves the very best home 416.285.6604
.
RosehillWineCellars.com
.
established 1995
November/December 2013 13-03-04 5:53 PM
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ONE LAST BITE
By Dick Snyder | @citybites
The best good cookie
Have we not maxed out on cookie excellence? Johanna Reynolds thinks not. More importantly, the devoted customers of her Good & Best Cookie Company clearly think not. “I’m swimming in Christmas orders,” she says. “A real estate agent just ordered 175 batches of 12 cookies for her clients.” So the proof is in the dough, along with Stirling butter—“that in itself sets them apart… they’re just deliciously buttery!”—Callebaut chocolate, organic spelt flour and, of course, lots of sugar. “Some of which is organic,” says Reynolds. “But these aren’t gluten free. They’re not health-nut cookies.” The recipe originates with her mother-in-law, and Reynolds has been tinkering with it for her own family these past 10 years. Right now, she’s a one-woman show, making batches three days a week in the kitchen of The Depanneur on College Street, and sending them out to just three Toronto retailers: Easy Tiger, La Merceria and Grain, Curd and Bean. “I make them in small batches, because I’m not a factory, I’m a person. And I really enjoy it, because I care about it.” Ah-hah! The secret ingredient.
Good & Best Cookie Co. goodandbestcookies.com
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CityBites
PHOTO: JOHNNY LAMB/JOHNNYLAMPHOTO.COM
Does Toronto really need another cookie?
Richard’s favourite expression is The Balvenie PortWood.
He knows American oak from European by touch. He’s not superman. But he has been reviving bourbon barrels and sherry butts for over half his life. This wood is what slowly breathes character into The Balvenie. That’s how important it is. So day after day is spent caring for the casks that control time. Hammering and punching to repair: charring and burning to rejuvenate. It took years working out how everything goes together. But now he knows what holds the future.
Handcrafted to be Enjoyed Responsibly. THE BALVENIE DISTILLERY COMPANY LIMITED Registered in Scotland. Registered Number SC138003 Balvenie Maltings, Dufftown, Banffshire, Scotland AB55 4BB Represented by PMA Canada Ltd. | pmacanada.com
MINUS 8 NEVER TASTED SO GREAT. Plan your Niagara Icewine escape today! No one does Icewine like Niagara and when the temperature drops, things really start to heat up! With four weeks of festivities hosted throughout the region to celebrate the harvest of Canada’s liquid gold, the month of January is jam-packed with a diverse range of Icewine-themed events. Plus, the Niagara Icewine Discovery Pass is a convenient and tasty way to enjoy Icewines from across wine country.
visitniagaracanada.com/icewinefest
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