Icn sep 17 final (1)

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INTERNATIONAL

COSMETICS

NEWS CONNECTING BUYERS TO SUPPLIERS

SEPTEMBER 2017 ◆ VOL. 01 ◆ ISSUE.04

TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION HAIRCARE PRODUCTS ANTI-POLLUTION PRODUCTS GLOBAL PERFUMES MARKET TOP SKINCARE PRODUCTS

BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST 2017

A bevy of beautiful people shared the stage with regional traders, professionals, and international manufacturers, as the Middle East’s largest beauty and wellness exhibition concluded in spectacular style.

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PA R LU X . I T

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P R O B A B LY T H E M O S T P R O F E S S I O N A L H A I R D R Y E R S I N T H E W O R L D

In this Issue

Beautyworld Middle East 2017

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A bevy of beautiful people shared the stage with regional traders, professionals, and international manufacturers, as the Middle East’s largest beauty and wellness exhibition concluded on 16 May in spectacular style. Beautyworld Middle East 2017, which took place at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, attracted 42,012 visitors from 135 countries, and featured 1,580 exhibitors from 60 countries. Spanning 55,000sqm, the threeday event’s 11.5 per cent increase in size year-on-year was duly matched by a 13 per cent growth in visitors, with throngs of spa and salon professionals, hairstylists and makeup artists.

The bodycare segment in Chile: A growing market...........16

Wella TrendVision Award Held in Guangzhou, China.........50

Probiotic skincare technology: It’s not fake science...........17

Freeman Beauty acquired by Yellow Wood Partners..........60

Cosmoprof Awards: Honouring the Most Innovative Companies.........................................................................................22

Klorane Brings Best of Natural Care To Beauty Brands......61

5 Top Secrets of Successful Cosmetics Formulations.........30 China-based Grand Fan Group acquires the CICABEL brand..........................................................................33 USANA Skincare Line With Cell-Signaling Technology......37 Kathy Ireland's EE1 takes on Damiva........................................42 Challenge yourself to an AcneFree Life!..................................44 Basic skincare routine tips for men...........................................47

Carving a niche in the Perfume Industry

P 25

Cosmetic surgery may help patients quit smoking............66 10 Questions to Ask Before You Change Your Hair Color... 68 Global Perfumes Market Poised for Steady Growth...........72 Hillsborough Local Creates Organic Skincare Company..........................................................................78 Your Skin Color Can Make Beauty Products More Expensive & Dangerous.....................................................80

Sir John Encourages People To Go Bold With Makeup

P 26

TFWA World Exhibition & Conference

5 Tips to keep Dark Skin Fashionably Flawless.....................63

P 53

Connected Beauty: The Unavoidable Challenge P 56

Sun Protection: Ingredient, Trends and Innovation P 34

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Anti-pollution skincare products P 74

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The only meeting point for KSA’s Beauty and wellness industry

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3rd - 5th December, 2017 Hilton Hotel - Jeddah, Saudi Arabia

Over 1,788 Saudi Buyers and investors Over 777 Salon owners and beauty professionals 4,269 Unique visitors interested in new products #saudihealthandbeauty

www.saudihealthandbeauty.com Media partners

27th - 29th November 2017 Al-Faisaliah Hotel - Riyadh

BOOK YOUR SPACE NOW Invitation Card Sponsor

Saudi Arabia's 4 th International Health & Beauty Exhibition Manna Al Jabarti Show Manager E-mail: manna.aljabarti@sunaidiexpo.com Mobile: +966 50 462 3152 Organiser:

From Concept to Market Success

WE MAKE YOUR BRAND GROW International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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www.internationalcosmeticsnews.com

INTERNATIONAL

NEWS CONNECTING BUYERS TO SUPPLIERS

SEPTEMBER 2017 ◆ VOL. 01 ◆ ISSUE.04

PUBLISHER Mitch Palmer Michel Martinez EDITOR Carole Dolan CO EDITOR Lucinda Mayer CIRCULATION MANAGER Paul Knots CIRCULATIONS CONTROLLERS Marry Peters Jane Watson Marcus zavaniz ADVERTISING Johnny Webster Andy Fraser Dino kadi William Walker

HELLO and welcome to our issue of the International Cosmetics News.

The global sunscreen ingredients market is projected to reach 40,000 Tonnes by 2020 with an overall increase in demand of 10,000 Tonnes by 2020. Seventy percent of the global demand is currently concentrated within ten countries and the USA was leading the market with a demand of 9,600 Tonnes in 2015 followed by Brazil - 3,200 Tonnes- and China2,500 Tonnes.

Beautyworld Middle East continues its double-digit growth trajectory in remarkable fashion, as ten show highlights shared the spotlight with more than 100 product launches across six sections.

The information on this magazine is for information purposes only. International Cosmetics News assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information, nor for any actions taken in reliance thereon. The information contained about each individual, event or organization has been provided by such individual, event organizers or organization without verification by us.

The opinion expressed in each article is the opinion of its author and does not necessarily reflect the opinion of International Cosmetics News.

Therefore, International Cosmetics News carries no responsibility for the opinion expressed thereon.

INTERNATIONALCOSMETICSNEWS info@internationalcosmeticsnews.com Phone: 00 44 02895086206 20 Stranmillis Road Belfast, BT9 5AA

The 22nd edition of Cosmoprof Asia will take place from 14 to 16 November 2017 at AsiaWorld-Expo and from 15 to 17 November 2017 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

This month we take look at brands, companies and beauty influencers who are contributing to the global cosmetic sector and are shaping the beauty care industry.

On a final note, we value our readership feedback and this is why ICN magazine exists. Feel free to email us with any ideas or suggestions as we look to move forward together.

I hope you enjoy this month's issue. Hope to see you in the future.

News desk officer International Cosmetics News

© 2017 International Cosmetics News.

All rights reserved.

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Stephanie la Croix

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Products Shower Gel Hair and body shower gel 200ml Total body Lotion Body lotion for normal skin 250ml Micellar Water Hydrating make up remover for face, eyes and lips 250ml Face & Neck Cream 2 in 1cream 50ml Fragrance Solid fragrance 10ml NEXT LAUNCHES Body Massage Oil Massage oil 150ml

24 pages Affinessence_Mise en page 1 09/03/2016 11:33 Page1

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EXPO

BEAUTYWORLD Middle East 2017

concludes in spectacular style attracting 42,012 visitors from 135 countries.

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Vibrant regional beauty and wellness market underlined by impressive double-digit growth of Dubai trade fair. A bevy of beautiful people shared the stage with regional traders, professionals, and international manufacturers, as the Middle East’s largest beauty and wellness exhibition concluded in spectacular style.

Beautyworld Middle East 2017, which took place at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, attracted 42,012 visitors from 135 countries, and featured 1,580 exhibitors from 60 countries. Spanning 55,000sqm, the three-day event’s 11.5 per cent increase in size year-on-year was duly matched by a 13 per cent growth in visitors, with throngs of spa and salon professionals, hairstylists, makeup artists, importers and exporters out in force, sourcing inspiration and the latest products displayed by the biggest brands in the global beauty business.

BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST 2017, ATTRACTED 42,012 VISITORS FROM 135 COUNTRIES, AND FEATURED 1,580 EXHIBITORS FROM 60 COUNTRIES. Beautyworld Middle East continues its double-digit growth trajectory in remarkable fashion, as ten show highlights shared the spotlight with more than 100 product launches across six sections of Hair, Nails, & Salon Supplies; Cosmetics & Skincare; Machinery, Packaging, and Raw Materials; Professional Equipment, Spa & Wellness; Fragrance Compounds & Finished Fragrance; and Personal Care & Hygiene.

The 22nd edition of the annual showcase was a mix of glamour and serious business in equal doses; models graced catwalks presenting the latest makeup and hair trends from the likes of Hollywood hair artist Guy Tang at one end of the exhibition’s vast expanse, while across the other, European premium skincare manufacturers or makers of niche perfumes were striking deals with regional distributors and highend retailers.

Ahmed Pauwels, CEO of organiser Messe Frankfurt Middle East, said: “Although Beautyworld Middle East continues to grow in size and scope every year, International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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EXPO

it has maintained, and even advanced its relevance in the Middle East and African beauty and wellness market, which continues to deliver up a wealth of opportunity for global and local players alike.

“Whether you’re a professional hair stylist seeking inspirational colouring trends, an entrepreneur looking for private label cosmetic manufacturers, or a hotel operator searching for the cutting-edge spa equipment and treatments, there’s really something for everyone.

“The show’s impressive growth coincides with Dubai’s position at the forefront of interregional trade,” added Pauwels.

“Figures from Dubai Customs show the emirate traded AED20.68 billion worth of perfumes and cosmetics in 2016, while in the first quarter of 2017, 202,000 tonnes worth AED5 billion were imported, exported, and re-exported.”

Neoderma from Cyprus was among the 650-plus Skincare & Cosmetics exhibitors at Beautyworld Middle East 2017, and used the event to launch its ‘Airless’ premium skincare range, including a Halal-certified whitening cream.

CEO Andreas Loizou said Neoderma is one of the first in the world to make 100 per cent airless skincare products.

Initially a manufacturer for private labels and the professional market, Neoderma is now entering the high-end retail market as part of its five year business expansion plan.

“The retail world is taking over and multi experience stores are becoming very strong, where one can find the right products and have treatments all at once, from skincare to haircare, to body to spa and massage,” said Loizou.

“We’re meeting some big global retail groups, distributors, airport duty free retailers and hotels this week at

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BEAUTYWORLD WORLDWIDE Organised by Messe Frankfurt, the Beautyworld brand hosts trade shows at various locations around the world.

BEAUTYWORLD JAPAN WEST 16 - 18 October 2017, Osaka, Japan BEAUTYWORLD JAPAN FUKUOKA 5 - 6 Feb 2018, Fukuoka, Japan

BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST 8-10 May 2018, Fukuoka, Japan

The 23rd edition of Beautyworld Middle East takes place from 8-10 May 2018. More information is available at: www.beautyworldme.com.

Beautyworld Middle East, and this is why we’re here. The Middle East and Africa is a priority region as part of our five year business plan, and we consider Dubai as the middle ground connecting these markets.

The 2nd edition of the highly popular feature had doubled in size over the previous year, with every one of the 23 high-end brands on display coming with its own rich story, embedded in the creations of the unique scents themselves.

“Although it’s our first time exhibiting here, we’ve known about Beautyworld Middle East for many years,” added Loizou. “We analysed 15 cosmetics exhibitions globally, and this show has demonstrated over the years to be the future in terms of attracting our target market.”

Luxe House, a distributor of premium beauty products throughout the Gulf region and several other Middle East countries, had six brands under its banner at Quintessence: Tom Daxon, Nishane, Le Galion, Signature Fragrances, Teaology, and Simone Cosac.

Among the many show highlights returning to Beautyworld Middle East 2017 was Quintessence, an exclusive showcase of luxury and niche perfumes, many of which were seen for the first time in the region.

Doaa Tahboub, Co-Founder and Marketing Director of Luxe House, said: “Quintessence offers us a golden opportunity to be present in front of a massive market segment that tends to be split between those searching for ultra-luxury products and those looking

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

for something a lot more personalised and unique, and that has an independent voice.

“There’re movements happening in each direction, and I would like to think of ourselves as a hybrid between the two.

We do represent luxury brands but we’re also there for people who are willing to be individual and step out with strong individuality.

“Quintessence is ideal not only to fulfil marketing objectives, but to draw inspiration from because it’s very refined, it’s very intimate, it’s designer-led. The way it’s built, and the dynamics of the feature makes it feel as though it’s an independent exhibition on its own,” added Tahboub.

Elsewhere, USA-headquartered professional haircare solutions manufacturer GKhair was one of more than 350 exhibitors in the Hair, Nails & Salon Supplies section at Beautyworld Middle East 2017.

Founded ten years ago in Miami, GKhair products and treatments are now available in salons in more than 70 countries, including 11 in the Middle East.

Founder and CEO Van Tibolli said the region comprises around 20 per cent of GKhair’s global business.

“The Middle East market is a very important for us, and since I started the brand in 2007, we opened country by country in the region,” said Tibolli.

“It’s a market that’s growing every year; it requires a lot of GKhair products, and demands high quality products.

“Now GKhair is not only in the beauty industry, but we’re also in the technology industry today. We recently developed our own mobile app which supports the sales and the overall distribution of GKhair and Tibolli products. It helps us control the growth of the company in a much better and professional way, and helps us develop products and have these products reach the countries that they

have to reach.” Beautyworld Middle East is the region’s largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances, and wellbeing.

The international flavour of the show was underline by the presence of 22 country pavilions, while the captivating highlights were spearheaded by Centre Stage by Nazih Group – a three-day educational showcase of the latest trends and developments in the beauty industry.

Other special event features ensuring visitors come away inspired, educated, and rejuvenated included: Battle of the Barbers; Sensorial Journey by Carita & centdgres; Hair Education by ghd; Nail It! By Artistic and OPI; the Business in Beauty Summit; and Face it! by Mehron and Madi International.

The 23rd edition of Beautyworld Middle East takes place from 8-10 May 2018.

More information is available at: www. beautyworldme.com.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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BODYCARE

Spring/Summer 2018 - A new Chromatic Grammar Spring Summer 2018 emerges with A New Grammar, which challenges and rethinks standard classifications.

WHY THE CHANGE? There is a mood of discontent and unrest in the air. We are in a period of shifting powers. Even as globalism and technology are bringing us closer together, there is a fresh backlash of protectionism, nationalism, and racism.

Modern life is whirling at an accelerated speed. For some, this breeds fear and exclusion, while others embrace connectivity to the contemporary world. We face the season with a new perspective, ready to accept and redefine lifestyle shifts in a new grammar. Grammar is the basic building block for language, a system for structuring communications.

This is reflected in an audacious color palette this season, tailored to all moods and tastes, reflecting these polarizing times.

From the cool glamour of an 80’s inspired palette of dark purples, magentas and red, to the uplifting warmth of Spiritual Oranges, girlish Kawaii Brights, and cool Air & Sea hues. As for neutrals, they’re anything but boring.

Picking up on the genderless attitude in the air, Urban Camo takes a khaki direction as muted browns and grays convey an edgy sobriety. It’s a season of bold statements – a questioning and reshaping of the basic fundamentals for our today’s new world.

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The bodycare segment in Chile: A growing market

BY SILVIA LOURENÇO

Chile, quite differently from the other Latin American countries, has been able to keep its economy stable during the last years. After going through a couple of years of a steady growth, the country’s economy has slowed down in 2015, but the outlooks for 2017 – 2020 is that the country will grow back again.

The body care retail market in Chile has remained in an ongoing growth.

In 2012, the segment’s retail market value was 102.0 billion of Chilean pesos. In 2016, it was 129.9 billion, and the forecast for 2020 is 160.9 million of Chilean pesos in retail. The retail market growth in local currency was 7.6% in 2012; 6.1% in 2016, and the outlook for 2020 is a 5.6% growth.

In US dollars, the retail market value for the body care segment in Chile was 209.7 million in 2012. In 2016 the retail market hit 191.9 million of dollars and the forecast for 2020 is that it will invoice 231.6 million of dollars. In percentage, the segment growth was 7.0% in 2012, 2.6% in 2016, and the outlook for 2020 is a 5.9% growth.

The retail market spend per capita of the Chilean population in the body care segment was 12.06 US dollars in 2012, 10.58 in 2016, and the outlook for 2020 is that it will hit 12.29 US dollars. The retail maket spend as a proportion of the Chilean GDP (Gross Domestic Product) was 0.07853 in 2012, 0.07768 in 2016 and the outlook for 2020 is that it will be around 0.07628.

The body care retail market segmentation by value in Chile added up to 122.4 billion of Chilean pesos in 2015, divided in a 106.6 billion revenue in body products, 10.5 billion in hand and nail products, and 5.3 billion in foot products. In 2016, the total sales in the segment reached 129.9 billion of Chilean pesos divided in a 113.8 billion revenue in body products, 10.7 billion in hands and nails products, 5.4 billion in foot products.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Probiotic skincare technology

It’s not fake science

BY ALLISON KREBS-BENSCH, CEO & CO-FOUNDER OF BEBE & BELLA

The human body is essentially an ecosystem made up of trillions of tiny organisms that live in and on it. A majority of these microbes can be found inside our large intestine as well as on our skin and in our mucus membranes. Similar to the large intestine, the skin and mucus membranes have resident microbes that protect us against bad bacteria, viruses, free radicals and other contaminants present in its environment.

P

robiotics are defined as “live, friendly microorganisms which when administered in adequate amounts confer a healthy benefit for the host.”

These ‘friendly bacteria’ help balance the digestive system and improve both skin and brain function. Probiotics naturally occur in the gut and their benefits differ between the genus, family and the varieties of bacteria.

Probiotics help reduce the “bad” bacteria in your gut. This ‘bad bacteria’ leads

to an unbalanced system that can cause bowel and stomach issues which can then result in skin conditions including eczema, rosacea and acne. Taking probiotic supplements or eating foods rich in probiotics balances the pH and internal flora contributing to the relief of these conditions.

Continuing research and advancements in technology are uncovering the particulars of the skin’s microbiome and how the good bacteria and its bi-products interact

with the skin’s structure and function.

International studies have shown that probiotics are easily absorbed into the skin through topical applications.

These topicals are highly beneficial for allowing the skin to retain moisture, increase cell regeneration and negate the ‘bad’ bacteria on the skin. Applying probiotics to the skin combined with taking probiotics orally provides a double whammy of skin benefits!

In simple terms, through the combination of supplementation and topical application, these microorganisms and their by-products help balance the ecosystem of the digestive tract and the skin. “Probiotic skincare technology – It’s not fake science.”

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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INGREDIENTS

The international innovation fair for perfumery & cosmetics industry Cosmetosciences is a program from Centre Val de Loire Region existing since 2015 aiming to promote and develop research in the cosmetic field involving local industrial partners. The program is also dedicated to international researchers by organizing an annual call for projects to recruit international postdocs, international seminars every year.

They have recently created an entrepreneurship laboratory in the university of Orleans. Cosmetosciences has associated its corporate brand to Cosmetic 360 by putting its logo on the visitor’s bags.

THE INDUSTRY'S EVENT WHERE THE COMMON DENOMINATOR IS INNOVATION • More than 200 Innovating exhibitors • 800 m² dedicated to start-ups • An Open Innovation service with leading ordering parties • The Cosmetic 360 Awards bestowed on the most innovating exhibitors • BtoB meetings with international delegations • Conferences and events enhancing research and its industrial applications

ZOOM ON: Companies decided to associate their corporate image to Cosmetic 360 by becoming Gold Sponsor of the exhibition!

networking. The two areas are branded by the Greentech Color to promote their French and more particularly their Auvergne region origin.

Greentech, develops and produces for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical fields, high-tech active ingredients from plant, marine and microbial worlds.

Beauty Tech Chartres, inspired by French Tech, is a network introduces

by Start-up, Chartres Metropole and Cosmetic Valley to unit young innovative companies and all the operator of the beauty industry.

Since Cosmetic 360’s founding, the group is a major partner of the exhibition. In fact, Greentech is committed to innovation just like Cosmetic 360.

Greentech supports the event to make people discover their innovations and tomorrow’s services. The company has chosen to be present in the center of the event, on two Business Contact Areas; privileged space of meeting and 18

The main objective is sharing skills and network to promote collaboration and to permit companies development. The network accompanies 150 start-ups in France.

Thanks to its contact and its expertise, Beauty tech Chartres sponsored the Startup room on Cosmetic 360.

NOT TO BE MISSED: Among the animations of this year an augmented reality application based on plasma will be presented by Keyveo on the exhibition. Many scientists have been working on plasma in the cosmetic industry and Cosmetic 360 is honored to present it to you.

Come and discover this innovation for yourself!

L’OREAL AND SHISEIDO ON COSMETIC 360: Through our Open Innovation Service Cosmetic 360 allows a linking between major companies and other companies in order to foster innovative projects…

Each year, several hundred companies meet our Open Innovation companies; L’Oréal, Shiseido, Johnson&Johnson, LVMH Research… This year both L’Oréal and Shiseido have not only an Open Innovation desk but also chose to be present on the fair as exhibitors and have a booth.

Come meet them!

We invite you to take a tour of the latest international innovations in the perfumery and cosmetics industry.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

SKINCARE

www.PourMoiBeauty.com

ClimateSmart Skincare Pour Moi to debut at Indie Beauty Expo Pour Moi, the world's first climate-smart skincare line, is set to debut tomorrow at Indie Beauty Expo (IBE) in New York.The eight-piece skincare line, comprised of four Day Creams, two Serums, a Hydrating Balancer, and a Night Cream, raises the bar on skincare efficacy by leveraging the changing properties of climates.

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his scientifically developed line introduces a brand new, patent-pending method of how to use premium skincare, utilizing climate-smart beauty technology found exclusively in the Réponse du Climat collection.

Unlike conventional skincare products, Pour Moi's innovative Day Creams utilize the world's first effective Climate Energized Beautifiers (CEBs) to follow along when skin changes with the climate, geographical or seasonal. Different types of climatesmart CEBs are uniquely formulated in line with specific climates to optimize skin-saving results across a wide spectrum of weather elements, man-made conditions, and pollution levels.

FOUNDER ULLI HASLACHER IS EXCITED TO SHARE POUR MOI WITH ATTENDEES, BEAUTY EXPERTS AND ENTHUSIASTS WHO ARE

Four variations of climate have the most influence on how skin behaves—temperate, tropical, desert, and polar—and Pour Moi tackles each with unique blends of hydrators and active ingredients.

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Naturally, IBE was the perfect place to debut such a unique and groundbreaking brand. Founded by celebrity esthetician, Jillian Wright, and entrepreneur, Nader Naeymi-Rad, the Indie Beauty Expo was established to help the fast-growing category of indie brands connect with buyers, press and consumers. Unsatisfied with the options available, Jillian and Nader formed IBE to provide a solution specific to market-ready indie brands.

ALWAYS SEARCHING FOR THE LATEST PRODUCT INNOVATIONS.

"Indie Beauty Expo is the perfect launching pad for a stellar brand like Pour Moi. Pour Moi has the opportunity to teach people how to think differently about their skin," explains Indie Beauty Expo Co-Founder Jillian Wright. "An adaptive skincare routine is a necessity for today's consumer in increasingly challenging environments, and we are thrilled to be the first to deliver this one-of-akind collection to consumers," says Ulli Haslacher, founder of Pour Moi. "

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

EXPO

COSMOPROF AWARDS

Honouring the Most Innovative Companies Cosmoprof Asia 2017, the most important exhibition in the Asia-Pacific region for trends and novelties of the cosmetic world, proudly presents the inaugural Cosmoprof Awards specially designed to recognise the most innovative products. This is just one of the initiatives across the two venues of Cosmoprof Asia, the show representing all beauty sectors- Perfumery and Cosmetics, Natural and Organic, Beauty Salon, Hair, Nail and Accessories- to be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre from November 15-17.

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

and the Beauty Circle Awards. The Innovation Circle Awards, presented for the first time last year, acknowledges companies with excellence in formulation and packaging, which are exhibiting in AsiaWorld-Expo.

Meanwhile, the Beauty Circle Awards, making its debut in 2017, celebrates the creativity and the most successful marketing strategies of exhibitors in the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Both initiatives are organised in partnership with Beautystreams, the company which also designs the display area for the finalists' products.

Meanwhile, the design of the trophies is being undertaken by Centdegrés.

Companies can submit their products or projects online according to categories by September 15. The finalists will be announced on September 26 to provide ample time for them to send their products to Hong Kong.

Winners of the Innovation Circle Awards will be announced on November 14 at the AsiaWorld-Expo, while winners of the B eauty Circle Awards will be unveiled on November 15 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

THE 22ND EDITION OF COSMOPROF ASIA WILL TAKE PLACE FROM 14 TO 16 NOVEMBER 2017 AT ASIAWORLDEXPO AND FROM 15 TO 17 NOVEMBER 2017 AT THE HONG KONG CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE.

M

eanwhile, Cosmopack Asia, to be held at the AsiaWorld-Expo from November 14-16, gives exposure to the entire supply chain of the beauty industry, from ingredients to contract manufacturing, from machinery to packaging.

Unlike other competitions in the industry, Cosmoprof Awards is open to companies from all sectors of the beauty industry attending the Cosmoprof Asia 2017, from exhibitors of raw materials and formulation, to those involved in packaging and OEM, machinery, as well as finished products. Cosmoprof Awards consists of the Innovation Circle Awards

INNOVATION CIRCLE AWARDS JURY The jury of the Innovation Circle Awards is made up of experts from specialised brands and magazines of the various segments in the production chain. They include: Andrea Alvares - Natura (Brazil) Elie Papiernick - Centdegrés (France) Joyce Kim - Nyx Cosmetics (USA) Julia Wray - Spc (Uk) Kilala Tilaar - Martha Tilaar Group (Indonesia) Lan Vu - Beautystreams (USA) Luc Berriet - Firmenich (Singapore) Lyla Wu - Neuni Group (China)

Masa Cui - Marie Dalgar (China) Oonagh Phillips Bw Confidential (France) Sam Cheow - L'oréal (USA) Sarina Godin - Butter London (USA) Seung-chuel Kim - Tonymoly (Korea) Stephane Colleu Dr Brandt Skincare (USA) Xiaojing Huang - Yang Design (China)

Nightscape is the theme of the Innovation Circle Awards upon which the general mood of the display area and the selection of the best entries will be based.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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EXPO

COSMOPROF AWARDS THERE ARE FIVE CATEGORIES PLUS A SPECIAL AWARD BY THE JURY: The Make-Up Formula Award- Includes colour cosmetics and nails The Skincare Formula Award- Includes skincare, hair, toiletries and personal care The Skincare Packaging Technology Award- Includes skincare, hair, toiletries and personal care The Make-Up Packaging Technology Award- Includes colour cosmetics and nails The Packaging Design Award- Includes colour cosmetics, nails, skin care, hair, toiletries, personal care and fragrances The Special Jury Award- The recipient of this award is recognised by the jury as the best among the finalists in terms of innovation, creativity, sustainability and execution

face, body, sun care, personal care and toiletries The Nail Product Award- Includes nail care, nail colour and nail art The Hair Product Award- Includes hair care, hair colour and hair styling The Natural & Organic Award- All categories The Best Beauty Brand Online AwardSelected among the finalists of all the above categories based on product marketing impact, and exhibitor's capacity in brand building, promotion and cultivating relationships, social media impact, innovation and outstanding

online presence Fo r f u r t h e r i n f o r m at i o n a b o u t Cosmoprof Awards, visit www.cosmoprofawards-asia.com.

SAVE THE DATES The 22nd edition of Cosmoprof Asia will take place from 14 to 16 November 2017 at AsiaWorld-Expo and from 15 to 17 November 2017 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

For show information and visitor pre-registration to attend Cosmoprof Asia 2017, visit: www. cosmoprof-asia.com

BEAUTY CIRCLE AWARDS JURY The jury of the Beauty Circle Awards is made up of experts from specialised brands and magazines in the beauty sector: Britta Fleck- Glossybox (USA) Carlotta Jacobsson- Cosmetic Executive Women (Cew) (USA) Eva Lagarde- Premiumbeautynews.com (France) Flynn Matthews- Google (USA) Jans Peter Peuckert- Parfumerie Douglas (Germany) Jisu Paek- Vogue Korea (Korea) Karine Ohana- Ohana & Co (France) Laura Husband- Pure Beauty Magazine (Uk) Leslie Blair- Vitality Magazine (Uk) Louis Houdart- Creative Capital (China) Michael Nolte- Beautystreams (USA) Roberto Pissimiglia- Estetica Magazine (Italy) Stephanie Shiu- Asiaspa Magazine (Hong Kong) THE AWARD CATEGORIES ARE: The Make-Up Product Award- Includes face-complexion, eyes and lips products The Skincare Product Award- Includes 24

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

TFWA WORLD EXHIBITION & CONFERENCE

Social events line-up announced There will be plent y of opportunities for delegates to meet new friends and cement established business relationships during this year’s extensive social events and leisure activities programme in Cannes.

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s one of the most popular events in the duty free and travel retail calendar, the Opening Cocktail, at Carlton Beach at 7.30pm on Sunday, eases delegates into the week ahead, giving them the chance to network with old friends and new acquaintances in an idyllic beach setting.

To end this special evening, delegates will be treated to a firework display over the bay, generously provided by the city of Cannes. The ideal place to unwind following a busy day is The Scene, set in a laid-back beach location with expert DJs providing after-hours fun every night from Monday to Thursday. We would like to thank all our sponsors of The Scene.

The grand finale to the week will be Le Premium Evening, a glamorous black

tie event held at Port Canto on Thursday evening. Here delegates will be able to enjoy first class musical entertainment from internationally renowned singer and impressionist Véronic DiCaire after a sumptuous gala dinner, which will begin at 8.00pm.

Kicking off the week’s leisure activities programme on Sunday is the Golf Tournament held in partnership with Estée Lauder at the Cannes Mandelieu Golf Club. Coaches for registered participants to this highly popular event will run from the Majestic Hotel from 7.30am.

TFWA would like to thank Valrhona for sponsoring polo shirts, golf caps and breakfast for the Golf Tournament, Eden Park for sponsoring the course flag and Moroccanoil, Pourchet and Kremlin Award Grand Premium Vodka for sponsoring the lunch buffet.

For those who enjoy an even more energetic start to their Sunday, there is a charity run along Cannes’ famous Croisette at 8.30am, beginning in front of the Carlton Hotel. Spectators and supporters are always welcome and all proceeds

will go to SAMU Social of Cannes, a charity that helps the homeless. Back by popular demand, the Regatta, sponsored

by Paul & Shark, will once again take place in the Bay of Cannes at 8.30am.

Participants must decide on strategy and tactics as they race and will enjoy an on-board picnic lunch and post-race swim (weather permitting).

After a highly successful introduction last year, delegates can once again prepare body and mind for the coming week with an hour of yoga on Sunday morning at the Majestic Hotel jetty at 9.30am, kindly sponsored by Rituals.

Sunday morning’s Pétanque Tournament at 9.30am moves to a new venue this year. Delegates will be able to battle in the sand at Allée de la Liberté Charles de Gaulle, just in front of the Palais des Festivals, before enjoying a post-match lunch at the Grand Café.

“We are delighted to be able to offer such a varied calendar of social events this year at TFWA World Exhibition & Conference,” said Erik Juul-Mortensen, president of TFWA. “These are always highly popular and we are looking forward to meeting newcomers as well as seeing well-known faces.”

To mark the addition of TFWA DIGITAL VILLAGE to this year’s programme, an Opening Cocktail will be held at Cannes’ Majestic Hotel on the evening of Tuesday 3rd October at 7.30pm.

Pre-registration is open at www.tfwa.com until 7th September. The TFWA World Exhibition & Conference will be taking place at the Palais des Festival, Cannes, between 1st and 6th October 2017.

For all those attending TFWA World Exhibition & Conference and TFWA DIGITAL VILLAGE who wish to attend the TFWA social events and leisure activities, please register on the TFWA website.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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INTERVIEW

Carving a niche in the

Perfume Industry Niche perfumes are disrupting a US$50 billion global fragrance industry typically dominated by brands bearing the names of global fashion houses. With this rise comes Quintessence, an exclusive showcase of niche perfumes at Dubai’s Beautyworld Middle East exhibition. Ahmed Pauwels, CEO of Messe Frankfurt Middle East, the organiser of Beautyworld Middle East, speaks about the rise of niche and the future of Quintessence, one of ten exclusive features at one of the world’s largest beauty and wellness trade fairs.

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iche perfumes are disrupting a US$50 billion global fragrance industry typically dominated by brands bearing the names of global fashion houses.

With this rise comes Quintessence, an exclusive showcase of niche perfumes at Dubai’s Beautyworld Middle East exhibition. Ahmed Pauwels, CEO of Messe Frankfurt Middle East, the organiser of Beautyworld Middle East, speaks about the rise of niche and the future of Quintessence, one of ten exclusive features at one of the world’s largest beauty and wellness trade fairs.

FACTORS LEADING TO NICHE PERFUME’S POPULARITY When we speak about niche, we speak

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about a new segment in the fragrance industry that emerged some ten years ago and is maturing now. This segment is the equivalent of high-fashion or luxury-based, quality-based fashion.

It’s a narrow segment which is why it’s called niche, and it’s a mix of creative driven and market driven strategy.

The creative side puts the perfumer and scent alchemy first, and the marketing side uses the key value proposition that translates the perfumer’s story to the customer. What we’re seeing is a major shift whereby consumers want to know more about the artistry, creativity, and inspiration behind their favorite fragrances. They want to learn about

the nuances of perfume families such as Amber, Gourmand, Fougere, or Chypre, or how oriental scents mix with Oud. The niche segment answers this demand, and customers are now very sensitive about the perfumer behind the brands they purchase. This shift in consumer education has become more evident over the last five years, giving rise to niche perfumes.

GENDER-NEUTRAL FRAGRANCES ARE A GROWING TREND A beautiful perfume is a beautiful perfume regardless of its name and the beauty of fragrance is that they are timeless. Perfumes are expressions of emotion and the lines between so-called feminine

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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INTERVIEW

Herve Gambs, L’arc, Le Galion, and Simone Cosac. The perfumers behind the most unique scents in the market today offered masterclasses into creating a truly wonderful fragrance, while sharing their stories and vision behind the creations.

or masculine scents are increasingly blurred. Most, if not all, niche perfumes are gender-neutral, and people will wear scents that reflect a certain occasion, a mood, the weather, or even what they’re wearing. It all comes down to their personal preference and because consumers are more educated now, they prefer to choose a perfume based on more complex decisions than simply whether a fragrance is ‘for him or her’.

THE UAE’S ROLE IN THE PERFUME WORLD UAE consumers spent US$2.1 billion on beauty and personal care in 2016, of which US$642 million went towards fragrances. It’s one of the highest per-capita spenders in the world on perfumes and has always traditionally been a very strong perfume market.

If you go back to before expansion of the fragrance mass market, only a few countries were already accustomed to perfume – the UAE was one of these that had perfumes with a very defined and structured signature.

QUINTESSENCE – ARTISTICALLY UNIQUE The 2nd edition of Quintessence at Beautyworld Middle East 2017 was a massive success, more than doubling in size over the previous year, and featuring 23 hand-picked perfume brands such as Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Ormonde Jayne, Ulrich Lang, Esteban,

Trade buyers also learnt how to create their own fragrances, taking their own signature masterpieces home with them.

The educational element is crucial to the future development of Quintessence, whilst maintaining the core values of niche and exclusivity. It’s important for buyers to understand what makes a fragrance niche, and why they are so unique.

This year we also featured Teaology from Italy – a niche skincare brand with tea infusion, so an interesting development for Quintessence may be extending the niche element to skincare and cosmetics.

The creative side puts the perfumer and scent alchemy first, and the marketing side uses the key value proposition that translates the perfumer’s story to the customer.

What we’re seeing is a major shift whereby consumers want to know more about the artistry, creativity, and inspiration behind their favorite fragrances.

AHMED PAUWELS, CEO OF MESSE FRANKFURT MIDDLE EAST.

With the global expansion of perfumes, many countries have converted to the idea and culture of wearing perfumes, but the UAE and Middle East for many years already had this culture, which is why it’s such a big market now, similar to France, Italy, the UK, or Germany.

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Luxury fragrance brand Cochine now available In the US Cochine products are made in Vietnam and France using the highest quality essential oils and ingredients, ethically and sustainably sourced. "For all our candles we use botanical wax from renewable resources exclusively, and likewise use only high-performance leadfree cotton wicks," says Crofton-Atkins.

Referring to the brand's eight signature scents, Crofton-Atkins says, "Each tells its own story." White Jasmine & Gardenia combines the white petals of Champa Jasmine, indigenous to Southern Vietnam, with Gardenia and Peony.

Cochine, a luxury collection of fragrances for the home and body, is now being introduced to a wider audience in the US by Founder Kate Crofton-Atkins. First created by Crofton-Atkins in 2009, the range of luxurious candles, reed diffusers, fragrances and a bath and body collection is inspired by her personal experiences in Saigon, where she lived following her career in skincare in London.

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rawing on her professional expertise in fragrance, Crofton-Atkins says, "My passion for fragrance is born out of my belief that by combining beauty, quality and style, everyday experiences can become a luxury.

Each Cochine product has been elegantly designed, professionally crafted and perfectly scented to heighten the senses.

We are very excited to be bringing new awareness of Cochine, with so many

options to enrich one's daily life and living space with style, romance and mystique, to the US." Partnering with an international fragrance house based in New York, Kate spent over a year working with essential oils harvested from Vietnamese plants and trees in order to produce the perfect combination of scents that would reflect Saigon's diverse flora and distinctive blend of oriental charm.

Vietnamese Rose & Delentii merges Rose and Bergamot with Delentii, a scented orchid indigenous to Central Vietnam. Tuberose & Wild Fig is inspired by evening walks in Kate's garden in Vietnam while Frangipani & Neroli can remind one of weekends by the sea and Water Hyacinth & Lime Blossom is reminiscent of lazy afternoons on the banks of the Saigon River. The Agarwood, a precious resinous wood indigenous to Southern Vietnam, found in Agarwood & Amber is known as "The Wood of the Gods."

Vanille & Tabac Noir combines Vanilla Bean and Patchouli with Tobacco Flower and extracts of spices. And Juniper & Ginger is inspired by the Central Highlands of Vietnam.

With distribution throughout Europe and Asia, Cochine is now available at the following US retailers: Barneys New York, Barneys Chicago, Barneys Beverly Hills; ABC Carpet & Home in NYC, American Rag Cie in Los Angeles; and HD Buttercup locations in Los Angeles, Costa Mesa and San Francisco. Online retailers include www.cochine.com and www.barneys.com.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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PRODUCTS

5 Top Secrets of Successful Cosmetics Formulations Sounds easy, right? You’d be amazed how many times formulators get one or more of these elements wrong. Let’s break it down, and you’ll see how mistakes can easily be made. Claims made in marketing campaigns must be visible/appearance based, so if the material doesn’t have good in-vivo data proving those visible results, you’ll struggle to have an effective marketing claim. Even if you have the best product in the world if you can’t say anything about it, you won’t sell a single unit!

TOP SECRET #1 USING THE RIGHT MATERIALS IN THE RIGHT AMOUNTS IN THE RIGHT APPLICATION Sounds easy, right? You’d be amazed how many times formulators get one or more of these elements wrong.

Let’s break it down, and you’ll see how mistakes can easily be made: 30

RIGHT MATERIAL: this needs to suit the company philosophy and have the required efficacy with fantastic marketable claims.

For example, if the company philosophy is natural products, then all ingredients must suit this philosophy including any actives AND any incidental ingredients the active may contain. Some active ingredients may contain incidental

preservatives that conflict with company philosophy – so check this carefully!

There is also a big difference between having a material with great scientific results and one that has a great marketing story – remember, the science behind how materials work on a cellular level CAN’T be told in promotional material!

Claims made in marketing campaigns must be visible/appearance based, so if

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

the material doesn’t have good in-vivo data proving those visible results, you’ll struggle to have an effective marketing claim. Even if you have the best product in the world if you can’t say anything about it, you won’t sell a single unit!

Choose wisely to ensure the materials you select suit your company philosophy and have a fantastic marketing story to really drive sales.

RIGHT AMOUNT If the in-vivo results of an active ingredient show efficacy when used in a cream base at 5% twice daily, then you need to use it in a cream base at 5% with directions to apply twice daily.

All too often we see companies use active materials in lower amounts than the in-vivo test conditions to save on material costs; but if the active material is used less than its proven amount, you might as well not use it at all!

penetrate to the mid-layers of the epidermis (stratum granulosum) to support hydration and suppleness claims.

Osmolytic substances such as humectants can be effective carriers to this level of the epidermis and are useful where actives need to reach the mid-layers of the skin. penetrate into the deeper layers of the epidermis (stratum basale). This is where a lot of high end actives need to penetrate; such as skin whitening agents, peptides and stem cells.

To get actives to the stratum basale, you need to formulate effectively using one or more delivery systems such as suitable solvents, liposomes, encapsulation and/ or micro or nano emulsions to penetrate

effectively through the outer layers of the epidermis and reach the target site. If you don’t get the material to its required site of activity, you might as well not have it in the formula at all!

TOP SECRET #3 GOOD SENSORY IMPACT The first thing a consumer will do when trying a product, is smell it. The second thing they will do is evaluate how much they like (or dislike) the product by the way it feels and spreads on application.

Whether it is fragranced or not; high or low spreading; silky or cushiony… it needs to suit your target market sensory expectations. Even if it has excellent efficacy, if a consumer doesn’t like the way a product smells or feels, they won’t use

RIGHT APPLICATION there is no point using an active material that has been proven in a twice daily application (leave on product) in a wash off or once daily or weekly application.

There are plenty of actives that suit wash off or low frequency use conditions; if that is the type of products you are creating then speak with your suppliers to get actives that work in those applications.

TOP SECRET #2:

GET THE ACTIVES TO WHERE THEY NEED TO BE. COSMETIC SUBSTANCES APPLIED TOPICALLY MAY: Sit on the surface of the skin and/or penetrate the very outer layers of the epidermis (stratum corneum). This is ideal if you are creating a ‘barrier protection’ product or trying to prevent transepidermal water loss: use appropriate film formers, hydrolysed proteins, barrier agents and lipids to achieve this.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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PRODUCTS

it long enough to get the results! With an almost endless array of fragrances and sensory agents now available, there is no excuse to get this wrong… speak with your supplier to include the functional materials to meet the aesthetic requirements of your target market for a successful formulation!

TOP SECRET #4: USE THE RIGHT METHOD Even the most careful material selection is worthless if you don’t use the right compounding method, and that method needs to be easily scalable to suit bulk manufacture.

Method is crucial! In addition, a method that is tricky in the lab can become impossible in large quantities, and/or using materials incorrectly can dramatically affect a products shelf life and stability. Three of the biggest errors we see formulators commonly make include: HEATING VOLATILE MATERIALS if you heat them, they simply evaporate… so why use them in the first place? Always check and add below their vaporisation temperature.

INCORRECT HYDRATION/ACTIVATION OF GUMS/POLYMERS every gum/polymer needs its own specific method of hydration (water soluble) or activation (oil soluble). If you don’t hydrate/activate correctly, they may as well not be added!

ADDING MATERIALS IN THE WRONG PHASE the right materials in the wrong combinations, being over heated (or not heated at all, if that is required), the wrong shear… all of these items can make good material selection pointless.

But these are only 3 examples of what can go wrong… human error at the formulation stage can be the worst impact

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on formulation stability and scalability. Speak with your suppliers to get the correct processing information and create the right method for successful formulations, especially when working with new and innovative materials!

TOP SECRET #5 ENSURE COMPATIBILITY This little secret, often overlooked, can have dramatic impacts on the shelf life and efficacy of a product. Here are a couple of scenarios: INCOMPATIBLE PH this is by far the biggest mistake we see formulators use. They may: select the right active, but put it in a base product where the pH makes it no longer bioavailable; or combine materials with very different pH requirements; or not allow for pH drift over the shelf life, which will always happen in water based products.

INCOMPATIBLE CHARGE some materials need to avoid anionic environments while others may not be electrolyte or charge tolerant at all!

Using materials in an environment where the charge is wrong can lead to insoluble complexes forming or totally negate normal functionality.

INCOMPATIBLE POLARITY in anhydrous systems, polarity of your lipids matters! Some viscosity modifiers specifically suit non-polar environments while others need polar activators; and others are specifically needed to hold polar and non-polar lipids together!

The polarity of lipids, and how selection, combination and stabilisation can be impacted, is another scenario often overlooked by formulators until something goes wrong!

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

China-based Grand Fan Group acquires the Cicabel brand Grand Fan Group, a company and distributor of three leading hair and body wash and care brands in China, held a press conference at which they announced the acquisition of the CICABEL brand and related technologies from French pharmaceutical manufacturer Santinov on August 27, 2017.

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hinese beauty products distributor Grand Fan Group has acquired the CICABEL brand and related technologies from French pharmaceutical manufacturer Santinov. The Chinese firm also disclosed that the first peptide-based facial mask set with the CICABEL name will formally go on sale in September.

An executive at Grand Fan Group said that as part of its ongoing expansion plans, the company is committed to developing new brands specifically for China's makeup and skin care market, while continuing to improve its three existing hair and body wash and care brands.

This acquisition of a French brand represents Grand Fan Group's first strategic foray into the skin care sector.

CICABEL is a 130-year-old brand of French medical products manufacturer Santinov. Santinov created and launched the CICABEL mask using stem cells as the principal component, following years of research and development on the back of strong technological competence. In line with accepted biotechnology and medical standards, the CICABEL mask is one of few beauty products based on bio-medical technologies available in the market.

As a consumer preference for hightech skin care therapies took hold in the market, CICABEL started to draw a lot of attention. Grand Fan Group had the foresight to spot the game-changing therapy as a great opportunity to expand into China's skin care market.

Although an enhanced awareness of skin

care has led to an increasingly strong demand for beauty products over the last several years, the weak performance of most facial mask products available in the market has served to discourage consumers.

A Grand Fan Group executive added: "China's skin care market needs a leading brand. With our strong confidence in high-tech approaches when it comes to improving one's appearance, we decided to take over CICABEL." Grand Fan Group's deal is representative of the company's and its peers' new approach to growing their businesses.

The group expects that CICABEL is to be a game-changer and become a leading brand in China's domestic market.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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SKIN CARE

Sun Protection

Ingredient, Trends and Innovation The global sunscreen ingredients market is projected to reach 40,000 Tonnes by 2020 with an overall increase in demand of 10,000 Tonnes by 2020. Seventy percent of the global demand is currently concentrated within ten countries and the USA was leading the market with a demand of 9,600 Tonnes in 2015 followed by Brazil - 3,200 Tonnes- and China- 2,500 Tonnes.

TRENDS IN THE GLOBAL MARKET The global sunscreen ingredients market is projected to reach 40,000 Tonnes by 2020 with an overall increase in demand of 10,000 Tonnes by 2020.

Seventy percent of the global demand is currently concentrated within ten countries and the USA was leading the market with a demand of 9,600 Tonnes in 2015 followed by Brazil – 3,200 Tonnes – and China – 2,500 Tonnes -. Although North America will remain the largest market

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KEY FINDINGS Although consumer’s preferences vary across the world, there are some common trends. Consumers demand more protection against all environmental aggressors such as UV radiation, pollution, infrared and blue light. This translates into higher SPF, which usually implies a higher number of UV filters and the use of botanicals, vitamins and film forming polymers able to protect the skin.

The sunscreen market has evolved tremendously during the last decade but there is still plenty of room for innovation to discover and develop healthier, safer and more effective ingredients and formulations that effectively protect the skin, with added skin benefits and more attractive textures that are easy to apply.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

for mineral filters is expected to grow in the forecast period driven by consumer demand for more natural ingredients and recent technical developments, still ninety percent of the UV filters used in North America, Western Europe and Latin America are organic filters while thirty-five percent of the UV filters used in Asian products are inorganic, mainly zinc oxide.

CONSUMERS WANT MORE Although consumer’s preferences vary across the world, there are some common trends. Consumers demand more protection against all environmental aggressors such as UV radiation, pollution, infrared and blue light.

LANCASTER HAS JUST LAUNCHED ITS FULL LIGHT TECHNOLOGY WHICH PROTECTS AGAINST UVB, UVA AND INFRARED RAYS AND HAS JUST RE-LAUNCHED ITS SPORTS SUNSCREEN’S RANGE WITH INTELLIGENT POLYMERS THAT RELEASE MENTHOL WHEN EXPOSED TO WATER, SWEAT OR HEAT.

This translates into higher SPF, which usually implies a higher number of UV filters and the use of botanicals, vitamins and film forming polymers able to protect the skin.

Consumers also expect non-sticky or whitening lighter textures that offer longer lasting protection during sport and water activities even in warm and humid climates. As a result, greater

innovation in synthetic polymers and higher demand for lighter emollients is expected to continue during the next five years. Mildness, convenience and added benefits are also among the top consumer’s preferences which is driving demand for skin conditioning and benefiting agents, milder surfactants, alcohol and waxes.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR INGREDIENTS IN WESTERN EUROPE Consumers are demanding products with higher protection and UV filters are the basic ingredients able to provide this protection. Among all UV filters, homosalate is expected to be the fastest growing in Western Europe between 2015 and 2020, followed by zinc oxide and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

Although homosalate itself is not able to provide high SPF, it is an affordable and globally accepted UV filter that can be used in high proportions (up to 10% in Europe and 15% in the United States) and it is usually combined with other filters due to its high compatibility to reach high protection in mass market products.

in the forecast period (2015-2020), it is expected to lose 6% of its market share as emerging markets, especially in AsiaPacific, are gaining momentum. Sun protection products and products claims depend on the specific market due to the diverse regulatory landscape and different consumer needs and preferences across the globe.

Fewer products in the US have UVA coverage due to its more restrictive regulation, while in Asia Pacific half of the UV filters used in sunscreens are broad spectrum (UVB + UVA). Despite demand

International Cosmetics News | October 2016

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SKINCARE

It is a liquid filter able to dissolve and stabilise solid filters such as avobenzone, one of the most used UVA filters.

Demand for mineral filters, although smaller than demand for organic filters, is also expected to grow especially in the case of zinc oxide due to its recent approval as UV filter in Europe.

Besides sunscreens, especially emollient esters but also alcohol are two ingredients that present big opportunities for growth by 2020. Light emollient esters with similar silky skin feeling to silicones but with the added benefit that they do not clog the pores and also solubilize some of the solid UV filters, are gaining popularity among formulators.

Vitamins present relatively small opportunities for growth in terms of volume – around 300 Tonnes – in the forecast period (2015-2020). Mainly panthenol and vitamin E are the vitamins that are projected to be most favoured. Last but not least, there are further opportunities for growth for other ingredients such as waxes, ascorbic acid, peptides, plant extracts and niacinamide.

INNOVATION: NOW MORE THAN EVER The need for innovative ingredients and formulations is vital to meet consumers demand. In response, companies are actively looking for solutions to overcome these challenges. Companies are broadening their focus to fight not only the effects of UV radiation but also air and light pollution.

Lancaster has just launched its Full Light Technology which protects against UVB, UVA and infrared rays and has just re-launched its sports sunscreen’s range with intelligent polymers that release menthol when exposed to water, sweat or heat.

Happy Skin has just launched its Catch the Sun Brightening UV Gel Cream in the

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Philippines, a water-based gel cream with moringa seed oil that protects against UV rays pollution. Besides formulations that offer further protection, some interesting products are the Dr Russo Cleansing Milk SPF 30 with three encapsulated UV filters, the UVO edible sunscreen with vitamins and antioxidants, the UNSUN Natural Tinted Sun Protection line for multicultural consumers, or even the recent launch of the brand Suncros, a pharma-derived sunscreen line, which is now directly selling to consumers in India.

Ingredients manufacturers are also responding by developing solutions.

For instance, Covestro has launched a high waterproof, ethanol-based polyurethane film former – Baycusan C 2000

– for transparent sun protection and innovative textures with an SPF-boosting effect, which dries quickly and can be applied to wet skin.

Not only formulation is important but education and proper application are fundamental. Aware of this, cosmetics companies are launching wearable UV trackers such as the L’Oréal’s UV Patch or the Norwegian SunSense technology.

The sunscreen market has evolved tremendously during the last decade but there is still plenty of room for innovation to discover and develop healthier, safer and more effective ingredients and formulations that effectively protect the skin, with added skin benefits and more attractive textures that are easy to apply.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

USANA announced at their a n n ua l I n t e r n at i o n a l Convention an innovative new skincare line. Celavive is a high performance skincare system — formulated with USANA InCelligence Technology— designed to specifically target an individual's unique beauty needs.

"We're thrilled to include our cell-signaling technology in our new skincare line," said Ashley Collins, USANA's VP of marketing & public relations.

"Celavive is going to revolutionize the skincare market, providing consumers the unique ability to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve the look of tone and texture in their skin."

Featuring an exclusive Cell-Signaling Complex, Celavive helps unlock the body's natural power to defy visible aging. Celavive also features USANA's Olivol Botanical Blend, a unique combination of fruit extracts that have been clinically shown to provide 24 hours of rich hydration after just one application.

"To have products that not only utilize this advanced technology, but are also formulated with a multitude of other

USANA Announces Skincare Line With CellSignaling Technology incredible skincare ingredients is why I've chosen to partner with USANA," said Dr. Jennifer Lee, dermatologist.

By using targeted nutrient combinations, Celavive supports the natural communication between skin cells to awaken their natural renewing ability — going beyond traditional skincare regimens to activate youth-preserving beauty functions. A complete line of Celavive products will be available for purchase in early 2018.

Visit celavive.com for more information.

ABOUT USANA Founded in 1992, USANA Health Sciences (NYSE: USNA) is a U.S.-based nutritional company that manufactures high-quality supplements, personal care and healthy food products in its state-ofthe-art facility in Salt Lake City. Learn more about USANA by visiting http:// www.askthescientists.com or the official USANA blog http://whatsupUSAna.com.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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TECHNOLOGY

Mobile technology reducing the gap between the customer and the brand MR. SANCHIT MENDIRATTA, PARTNER, HAPPY MARKETER With Happy Marketer presenting upon What Asia’s mobile-first market means to you at in-cosmetics Korea 2017, we caught up with Sanchit Mendiratta, one of the company partners, to get his thoughts upon the topic…

Question 1: How has the growth of mobile platforms been applied to the beauty industry?

According to Facebook’s The Mobile Makeover, 63% of beauty customers have agreed they can’t live without their mobile device or smartphone, while 45% of beauty customers have agreed that their cell phone is rapidly turning into their most essential shopping tool.

Thus, in a way, mobile technology is reducing the gap between between the customer and the brand.

The connection to mobile is much more personal and intimate, compared to that of TVs and computers. Smartphones have doubled up as personal beauty consultants. Rather than seeking gleaming design magazines for motivation, shoppers can look at an influencer’s tutorial or a friend’s selfie or reviews, all on the mobile.

Question 2: What kind of information do you think the beauty industry will be able to convey via mobile platforms and how will the purchasing method develop in the future?

Following are the types of products/ information that beauty consumers are increasingly seeking, and such information can be provided by mobile platforms:

They can seek beauty content such as tutorials, tips, blogs, reviews and recommendations, hacks, and product descriptions, anytime and anywhere (whether inside the store or outside), with just a few taps on their portable device.

RISE OF SAFE COSMETICS CONSUMERS : The ThinkDirty mobile app can scan

Mobile also plays an important role in the discovery of content and innovation in the beauty industry such as beauty apps that are powered by AR/VR technology to check how a particular lip colour or nail paint looks on a customer before making an online purchase. The strengths of the mobile technology such 38

as high quality visual content shown by apps such as Instagram, location targeting (geolocation-based technology used by brands to give specific offers when the customer is around the store) align well with the needs of the millennials.

the barcode of beauty products and share vital information about the nature (safe/toxic of the ingredients used in the cosmetics.

PERSONALIZATION OF BEAUTY PRODUCTS: The millennials and the selfie generation desire products that are highly customized for them. And for this segment of the population, a better thing than getting a product customized is creating the product by themselves.

Finding Ferdinand is a brand that allows customers to mix shades of lipsticks of their own preferences from the palette, and place the order online via the app.

MatchCo turns the camera of the smartphone into a colorimeter to figure out the skin tone of a customer, and creates a the colour matching the unique colour of the customer.

SANCHIT MENDIRATTA For over 10 years, Sanchit has utilised his experience in digital analytics and technologies to help leading organisations drive digital excellence. He has advised and trained more than 2,000 executives across Asia and the Middle East. Sanchit also shares his digital experience as a guest lecturer at the SP Jain School of Global Management, Singapore, and the Indian School of Business, Hyderabad.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Following is an example about how purchasing of beauty products is evolving, and how mobile is being instrumental in the same: AUTOMATIC BEAUTY SHOPPER FOR CUSTOMERS Stash is a mobile app that shops beauty products for customers. By scanning the barcodes of the at-home beauty products, the app generates a database of the customer’s favourite products. It then automatically calculates the time when the product is likely to get over and adds the product to the cart.

Question 3: Can you give us examples of mobile marketing in leading cosmetics companies in the US and Europe?

Glossier: In 2016, Glossier, a brand that got created out of a well-known beauty blog ‘Into the Gloss’, increased its revenue by 600% through mobile marketing and app innovation.

Dior: Dior has launched Dior Insider, a chatbot that uses Messenger to deliver personalized, premium content to the consumers.

L’Oreal: L’Oreal partnered with AR firm ModiFace in 2016, and has launched a number of AR beauty apps such as L’Oreal’s Makeup Genius app and YouCam Makeup.

Question 4: Do you think immersive technology such as Virtual Reality (VR) and Augmented Reality (AR) can be applied to the actual beauty business? If possible, how will it be applied?

Immersive Technology such as Virtual Reality & Augmented Reality are already being applied by the beauty industry.

Some examples on how brands from this space have been leveraging on the technology – MODIFACE: Modiface is one of the top makers of beauty and image editing applications supported by AR technology. It shows live changes in 3D for makeup, hair, skin and anti-aging for brands like Clinique, Estée Lauder, Shiseido and Shu Uemura.

ModiFace said that its innovation is utilized as a part of more than 150 apps, and has been downloaded over 60 million times.

YOUCAM MAKEUP APP: YouCam Virtual Makeover & Beauty Studio allows customers to try on makeup with an AR technology.

The app is one of the highly rated apps in Google photography apps, and has earned more than 1.27 million five-star reviews.

L’ORÉAL’S MAKEUP GENIUS: L’Oréal’s Makeup Genius instead of displaying products on static images, showcases them in the form of realtime videos.

The app can capture 64 facial points, up to 100 expressions and head movements of up to 60 degrees. The app has been downloaded 6.3 million times.

SEPHORA TO GO: Sephora has pioneered in using mobile app to improve the in-store shopping experience with the Sephora To Go app.

The app adds fun to the experience of shopping and provides information required by the consumers when they are at the store.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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PERFUME

John Legend, Hunter Klugkist, Solomon Mussing and Carlos Andrés Gómez at the announcement of the AXE Senior Orientation program on August 23, 2017 in New York City.

Axe Continues the Find Your Magic Initiative Unilever’s Axe Brand on Tuesday rolled out its new Find Your Magic initiative, the brand said is aimed at combating toxic masculinity and emphasizing the importance of selfexpression to being confident.

J

ohn Legend and Carlos Andrés Gómez kick off program to promote inclusive masculinity in high schools The high school experience can be painful. The atmosphere of the hallways, locker rooms, parties and social media channels often push insecurities to the forefront as young guys struggle to figure out who they are within the confines of "who they're supposed to be."

John Legend, Hunter Klugkist, Solomon Mussing and Carlos Andrés Gómez at the announcement of the AXE Senior Orientation program on August 23, 2017 in New York City.

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John Legend, Hunter Klugkist, Solomon Mussing and Carlos Andrés Gómez at the announcement of the AXE Senior Orientation program on August 23, 2017 in New York City.

This pressure to conform can churn out unhealthy thoughts and behaviors.

In fact, of the young guys who find themselves facing this inner turmoil, 81 percent turn to bullying, 71 percent to sexual harassment and 51 percent experience depression.

To help empower young guys to confidently embrace their true selves, AXE announces "Senior Orientation," a

program dedicated to bringing a message of self-expression and inclusivity directly to high school students.

Through a custom curriculum and series of performances, seniors will be encouraged to foster an environment of inclusive masculinity.

Co-developed with AXE by masculinity expert, poet and author Carlos Andrés Gómez, and featuring award-winning musician and activist, John Legend, the program will rally seniors to take a mentorship role with underclassmen that shows them there's no one way to "be a man."

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Both Legend and Gomez will also help select and mentor students to perform at Senior Orientation to express their own unique voices to their school.

"Finding the courage to express your truest self is a crucial part of growing up and being the best person you can be. I'm proud to continue working with AXE to help young guys find their magic," said Legend. "We want to encourage guys to be open and creative, to embrace their individuality and to conquer their fears.

While there's so much pressure to fit in, the greatest find a way to stand out."

Senior Orientation will take place this year at Centennial High School in Columbus, Ohio – close to Legend's hometown – and is open only to Centennial students. As part of the C olumbus City S cho ol Distr ic t, Centennial's administration and students are proud of fostering a culture of encouragement to self-expression. The school is now eager to take it even further with the AXE Senior Orientation program.

We absolutely owe it to our guys – and the women in their lives – to champion a more inclusive world where this is possible. There's no place today more in need of this than our high schools."

AXE is dedicated to helping you #FindYourMagic. To get involved in the Find Your Magic Initiative and #SeniorOrientation conversation, follow @AXE on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. And if you or someone you know is impacted by bullying, AXE partner Ditch The Label has trained mentors ready to answer your questions and offer confidential support at https:// us.ditchthelabel.org/get-help/.

AXE, the No. 1 men's fragrance brand in the world, champions individuality and

self-expression by encouraging guys to embrace their personal style.

With a full line of grooming products including daily fragrance sprays, deodorants, anti-perspirants, shower gels, shampoos and styling products, AXE gives guys the tools to express what makes them unique, authentic and ultimately attractive to the world around them. Visit AXE at AXE.com *Source Euromonitor International Limited; Beauty and Personal Care 2015ed, Men's Deodorants & Mass and Premium Men's Fragrances retail value sales combined, as per umbrella brand name classification, 2014; Lynx includes all AXE/Lynx/Ego sales.

"Society conditions guys to puff out their chests and pick on the kid who doesn't conform to the mold," said Gómez. "They think – that guy over there plays the flute, does ballet or has a lisp, it's ok if I make his life miserable.

They think being the bully makes them 'look cool,' but it's really just trying to fit in at all costs. Or they think disrespecting girls will make them more of a man. It was the same when I was in high school, and I still see it with the kids I work with today."

"As a men's grooming brand, AXE has always been about helping guys feel more confident," said Dawn Hedgepeth, Senior Director of US Deodorants & Male Grooming at Unilever. "The truest source of confidence is the freedom to embrace and express your truest personal style, down to the very fibers of your DNA.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

41

PRODUCTS

Gardiner Smith, Kathy Ireland, (Gracie, in Kathy's arms) and Chia Chia Sun.

Kathy Ireland's EE1 takes on Damiva "Damiva aligns greatly with our efforts to disrupt the women's products industry, by breaking down barriers and creating innovative and natural products for women's lifelong health." - Kathy Ireland Kathy Ireland Welcomes Damiva Inc. As They Sign On With Level Brands' EE1, I'M1, Along With kiWW, To Bring Into The Mainstream Damiva's All-Natural Vaginal Health Product Line For Women Of All Ages, With A Special Focus On Women 30+

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ed by CEO Martin Sumichrast and supported by the kathy ireland Worldwide team, Level Brands, Inc., an innovative marketing and licensing company that provides bold, unconventional and socially responsible branding for leading businesses, announced today that Encore Endeavor One (EE1), their corporate brand management unit, and Ireland Men 1 (I'M1), their Millennial brand for men and the women who love them, will jointly provide strategic advisory services and manage all brand marketing for Damiva Inc., an innovator

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in all-natural health products for perimenopaUSAl, menopaUSAl and postmenopaUSAl women. Concurrently, in an associated agreement, kathy ireland Worldwide (kiWW) will steer strategic brand management for Damiva Inc. EE1 was co-founded by Kathy Ireland and Nic Mendoza and led in marketing and creative by Stephen Roseberry, President and Chief Marketing Officer of kathy ireland Worldwide (kiWW), together with kiWW's Global Creative Director, Jon Carrasco.

I'M1 was co-founded by Kathy Ireland and Tommy Meharey – Marine, millennial father, global fashion model, concert producer, Vice President of kathy ireland Weddings & Resorts, as well as the youngest Board of Directors' member of kathy ireland Worldwide. EE1 and I'M1 are also led in marketing and creative by Mr. Roseberry and Mr. Carrasco.

This latest corporate announcement follows Level Brands' recent news of its intention to launch an initial public offering using Regulation A of the Securities Act (which was amended by the JOBS Act and is now popularly known as "Regulation A+").

Level Brands will be the first company with a nationally recognized woman Chair man Emer itus to launch a Regulation AIPO with an intent to list on a national securities exchange.

"Women's health, for women of all ages and circumstances around the globe, is one of the issues our entire team at kiWW is extremely passionate about.

Too often women's health issues take a backseat to men or are ignored entirely.

Our Millennial Development Goals include a fierce and fearless commitment to change the landscape for women's

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

health," says Kathy Ireland, Chairman, CEO and Chief Designer of kiWW and Level Brands' Chairman Emeritus and Chief Brand Strategist.

tremendous need for information and options – especially all-natural ones like Damiva's – that we believe women in their 30s and up deserve to know about.

"Damiva aligns greatly with our efforts to disrupt the women's products industry, by breaking down barriers and creating innovative and natural products for women's lifelong health. Working in concert with Level Brands' CEO, Martin Sumichrast, I am delighted to welcome Damiva, and its great leader, Chia Chia Sun, to the Level Brands' and kiWW family.

We look forward to bringing this important product information to the mainstream," says Stephen Roseberry and Jon Carrasco, President and Chief Marketing Officer, and Global Creative Director, respectively, of kathy ireland Worldwide in a joint statement.

Together, we can advance our mission of bringing forth innovative, beneficial products for women. Every evening, American families are accustomed to seeing advertising, which speaks to intimacy and men. Finally, we have the opportunity to help couples achieve equal levels of intimacy."

"I am so thrilled to join forces with one of today's top retail licensing business leaders, Kathy Ireland, and the wonderful team at Level Brands," says Ms. Sun. "Kathy, Martin, and their incredibly talented team can propel our business forward by expanding our sales, marketing, and educational efforts. We look forward to breaking down barriers through this great strategic alliance."

Damiva is a product innovation company based in Toronto that sells its groundbreaking 100% natural feminine moisturizers, Mae and Cleo, in over 4,000 drugstores and health food stores across Canada and the U.S., including Cardinal Health and select CVS and Target pharmacies, with additional pharmacies and health food stores continually adding to Damiva's retail distribution.

Damiva was founded by its CEO, Chia Chia Sun, whose mission is to develop all-natural women's health products for the mainstream marketplace using direct messaging to overcome the often taboo

subjects around women's perimenopaUSAl, menopaUSAl and postmenopaUSAl health and vaginal dryness.

Perimenopause is a transformative stage in a woman's life that often starts in a woman's 40s, but can start in her 30s or even earlier. All Damiva products are 100% natural, safe, chemical free, and hormone free.

Martin Sumichrast, President and CEO of Level Brands, comments: "On a nearly daily basis, our team is sought out to review products to consider for inclusion in our I'M1, EE1, and Beauty & Pin-Ups' portfolios.

As we continue to expand the Level Brands' portfolio of clients across all three business units, we are excited about the prospect of giving consumers great information, excellent products and, often, new hope for every aspect of their lives, especially their personal health, wellness and happiness. When Chia Chia Sun approached us, we knew that's exactly what these all-natural products represent."

"All of us at Level Brands and kiWW are passionate about making a positive impact – a real difference through bold, unconventional and socially responsible branding. These are important tenets for us. Like our Beauty & Pin-Ups' hair care and women's brand that redefined beauty to be wholly inclusive, including people with developmental disabilities, we see a similar opportunity for social change with Damiva.

This is an important and often hushed subject, branded 'taboo,' yet there is a

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

43

TRENDS SKIN

Challenge yourself to an AcneFree Life!

AcneFree, a complete line of highly effective acne treatment products and systems introduces the #AcneFreeLife Sweepstakes, a thirtyday skin care sweepstakes designed to help you take back control of your skin once and for all. Three lucky winners will receive a grand prize of $1,000 and a one-year supply of the AcneFree 24 Hour Clearing System!

An additional 10 winners will be chosen each week (total of 50 weekly winners) to receive the Acne Clearing System as they continue to strive for the grand prize.

Acne affects between 40 to 50 million people in the US alone, so it's no surprise that this common, chronic, difficult to treat skin condition can cause stress and

reduce confidence. But, help is on its way with AcneFree. We encourage you to enter the #AcneFreeLife Sweepstakes, try the products for 30 days and see the difference.

SEE BELOW FOR INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO ENTER: Visit https://acnefree.wishpond.com/

sweepstakes and complete the official entry form by entering your first name, last name, and your email address.

After submitting an official entry form, you may earn additional entries for successfully completing each of the following actions: Using the Entr y Form to 'follow' AcneFree on Instagram, @AcneFree.

Using the Entry Form to 'like' the AcneFree page on Facebook, @AcneFree.

Enter the #AcneFreeLife Sweepstakes today and experience the AcneFree difference for yourself. For more information visit us at AcneFree.com and join the conversation on social media @AcneFree.

ABOUT ACNEFREE AcneFree offers a complete line of highly effective acne treatment products. We're at the forefront of the science of acne treatment and prevention – and we're here to share our knowledge with you, so you can better understand your acne and get better control over it. www.AcneFree. com.

ABOUT L'OREAL L'Oréal has devoted itself to beauty for over 105 years. With its unique international portfolio of 32 diverse and complementary brands, the Group generated sales amounting to 25.26 billion euros in 2015 and employs 82,900 people worldwide.

As the world's leading beauty company, L'Oréal is present across all distribution networks: mass market, department stores, pharmacies and drugstores, hair salons, travel retail, branded retail and e-commerce. Research and innovation, and a dedicated research team of 3,870 people, are at the core of L'Oréal's strategy.

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

NEWS

MBDbeauty

Fall Beauty Trends

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BDBeauty is back to share the hottest beauty trends and products of the Fall, along with their favorite beauty must haves! MBDBeauty is Connecticut’s premier, award-winning, beauty studio and concierge, offering beauty services for bridal, media, and portraits.

They combine artistic talent and exceptional customer service to make you look stunning. MBDbeauty strives to make your experience relaxed and fun, and deliver the look that you want. They specialize in high-definition silicone-based airbrush makeup, traditional makeup, hair styling, and eyelash enhancements.

MBDbeauty will be offering a fall makeup class in October, as well as opening a sister store at the end of September. For more information be sure to visit http:// www.MBDbeauty.com

MAC Cosmetics Announces Aaliyah Collection for Summer 2018

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omorrow marks the 16th anniversary of the fatal plane crash that caused the tragic death of R&B songstress Aaliyah, just a month after releasing her final self-titled album and immediately after filming iconic music video for hit single, "Rock the Boat."

happen. This news comes after MAC released late singer Selena Quintanilla’s wildly successful tribute collection in October 2016, also brought to life by a fan-driven petition.

Aaliyah’s history with the cosmetic powerhouse was made known after an exclusive interview resurfaced, where she told Sisters in Style magazine that she, in fact, used MAC products.

The star became famous for her "One in a Million" voice, smooth dance moves, and acting roles in Romeo Must Die and Queen of the Damned. Thanks to her fans, though, she continues to live on in more ways than one.

Because of an “Aaliyah for MAC” Change. org petition started two years ago that has since racked in over 26,000 supporters, the singer is officially getting an inspired collection with the cosmetic brand, set to release in summer 2018. The brand 46

“Aaliyah is truly one in a million — an unstoppable icon whose groundbreaking work in R&B music and film inspires us all.

announced it on social media, crediting her fans for making the collaboration

Today we join her countless fans in celebrating her with the announcement of the MAC Aaliyah collection. You made it happen! Stay tuned in 2018.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Basic skincare routine tips for men As compared to women, the skin of men has more collagen and elastin that makes their skin thick and firm and, hence, the signs of ageing appear much later as compared to women. Therefore, it is important for men as well to take care of their skin by following a cleansing routine, say experts.

KNOW YOUR SKIN TYPE: This is the first step to schedule your skin care routine. Take a tissue test and see if you have dry, oily or combination skin.

Generally, people with oily skin tend to have oil on their t-zone (forehead, nose, and chin). Check this using a tissue paper and get to know your skin type.

CHOOSE PRODUCTS AS PER SKIN TYPE: Since there is a difference between the skin of males and females, the products are made specifically keeping in mind all those factors. Make sure to use skin care products mindfully.

off this layer and brings out a smooth, healthy skin. In case you have an oily skin, use salicylic acid-based scrub. A glycolic face wash is also a good buy as it cleanses as well as exfoliates.

DO NOT FORGET SPF SPF should be an important part of your skin care regime as it protects the skin from the harmful UV rays of the sun that leads to sunburn, tanning and gradually leads to early ageing. For men, a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 is a great option and should be used daily.

Reapplying the skin care is the second step to increasing its effectiveness.

MOISTURISE After thorough cleaning and exfoliation, it is important to moisturise your skin to keep it soft and supple. A moisturising cream provides the right amount of moisture to the skin to keep it hydrated and healthy. A hand cream, body lotion are some good options.

FOLLOW A CLEANSING ROUTINE Men should wash their face at least twice a day using a mild face wash that suits their skin.

As the skin tends to get oily throughout the day and block the pores, it is important to follow a regular cleansing routine.

Watch out if it dries your skin and change the products accordingly.

EXFOLIATION All that dirt and oil accumulated on the face results in blackheads or whiteheads and forms a layer of dead skin.

Exfoliation sheds

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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SKINCARE

Colorescience Introduces All Calm Clinical Redness Corrector

F

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ormulated for redness, rosacea and sensitive skin, this first-of-its-kind formula instantly calms and soothes skin while its subtle green undertones neutralize redness, and its patent-pending BioSolaceTM complex helps provide ongoing relief from sensitivity and the appearance of redness.

redness sufferers to experience calmer, more even-looking skin immediately while addressing the underlying causes of redness for healthier-looking skin in the long-term. All while using 100% mineral (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) protection against the #1 trigger of Rosacea – UV rays.

In addition, it includes full-spectrum UVA/UVB SPF 50 sun protection via 100% mineral, chemical-free active ingredients. This three-in-one approach is revolutionary as it allows

"It's such a great feeling to see a smiling rosacea patient after they have tried All Calm for the first time. It addresses and covers redness, acts as a moisturizing color corrector and sunscreen all in one,"

says Dr. Shari Topper, Board Certified Dermatologist and a key Colorescience physician partner.

"One in twenty Americans say they regularly experience skin redness and irritation, with many even admitting to staying home from work or social engagements due to feelings of embarrassment resulting from these symptoms," says Mary Fisher, Chair and CEO of Colorescience. "We're proud to offer a product like All Calm Clinical Redness Corrector to help these nearly 16 million

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Colorescience, the leading skin health cosmetics company introduces the innovative All Calm Clinical Redness Corrector. Innovative Product Neutralizes Redness, Soothes Sensitive Skin, and Provides SPF 50 Sun Protection.

people. It's part of our ongoing commitment to address the most common skin concerns." All Calm ($120 for 1oz) is available through a network of dermatologists and licensed skincare professionals and at Colorescience.com.

ABOUT COLORESCIENCE For over 12 years Colorescience has been blurring the lines between makeup and skincare to bring immediate beauty today while improving and protecting skin for tomorrow. Originally crafted for the most vulnerable post-procedure skin,

Colorescience is trusted, recommended, and personally used by thoUSAnds of physicians.

Using only substantiated ingredients in their purest form, and including them at therapeutic and dermatologist-approved levels for maximum efficacy and performance, Colorescience products have already improved millions of lives with 365-day protection from UV rays and environmental stressors. The brand's uncompromising, health-forward approach to formulations provides

confidence and reassurance to women of all ages, skin types and concerns.

They understand the demands women face every day and realize the needs of today's consumer: ease, health, and beauty. Colorescience is changing the way women perceive beautiful skin; because beautiful isn't just the prettiest—it's the healthiest.

Colorescience products are designed to easily fit into day-to-day life and are available through a network of licensed physicians, colorescience.com.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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EXPO

2017 Wella TrendVision Award Held in Guangzhou, China The China Final of 2017 Wella TrendVision Award known as the "Hair Oscars" was held on August 22 in Guangzhou. 2017 Wella TrendVision Award gathered China's top hairstylists to bring a "Ultra Contouring" visual feast with bold creation and unlimited inspiration and create an annual summit in China's hair fashion industry again.

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he 2017 Wella TrendVision Award is the 20th competition in China. More than 1,000 Chinese top hairstylists were invited to gather in the grand final ceremony to witness 24 finalists compete for the title of China champion.

Wi t h t h e t h e m e o f 2 0 1 7 We l l a TrendVision Award, 2017 International 50

Spr i ng / Su m me r Tre nd of Wel l a Professionals - "Ultra Contouring" enlightened the audience about the trend and how it was being interpreted by the 24 finalists.

The "Ultra Contouring" International Spr i ng / Su m me r Tre nd of Wel l a Professionals is all about bold attempt of

light and shadow for the purpose of creating personalized style that surmounts face shape constraints through combination of color and hairstyle and by using contouring technology to realize super-personalized optical illusion.

As the communication platform for the leaders from different industries, the

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

of Coty Professional Beauty Coty China was present at the event to announce the final winners for the distinguished guests: The Champaign of Creative Vision was Shaobo Su from Apple Hairstyle and the Champaign of Color Creation was Zhengyuan Huang from TIFFANY Hairstyle.

cross boundary forum at the Wella TrendVision Award invited the hairstyle trendmaster and fearless hairstyle founder Mr. Robert Lobetta who returned to Sebastian Professionals, to come to the final to show his art, fashion and hairdressing creation charm.

Mr. Lobetta is highly recognized and respected by all the colleagues and peers in the hairdressing industry with his perfect art background and forward-looking fashion insight.

The Champion of 2017 Wella TrendVision Award were born finally through a series of selections of works collection, internet audition and voting, live internet broadcasting of rematch and voting.

Wella TrendVision Award truly integrates China's hairdressing industry into the top international fashion trend to jointly promote collision of the ideas about industry trends.

They will represent China's hairdressing industry in London, England in this October to participate in the global final of 2017 Wella TrendVision Award to once again proudly show the top forces of China's hairdressing and fashion industry.

As brand new highlight of 2017 Wella TrendVision Award, Wella Professionals set Wella Family Award in the final for commending the hairdressing peers who have worked together with Wella on the frontline of China's hairdressing industry.

Wella has united the peers in the hairdressing industry from all over China with its actions to create jointly the new height of China's hairdressing fashion industry.

ABOUT COTY INC. Coty is one of the world's largest beauty companies with approximately $9 billion in revenue, with a purpose to celebrate and liberate the diversity of consumers' beauty. Its strong entrepreneurial heritage has created an iconic portfolio of leading beauty brands.

Coty is the global leader in fragrance, a strong number two in professional salon hair color & styling, and number three in color cosmetics.

As the climax of Wella TrendVision Award every year, the annual Autumn/Winter International Trend was also released in the final. The theme of 2017 Wella Professionals Autumn/Winter Trend is The New Norm Collection, and hand-crafted hair techniques in color and cut from the past, are the season's hair inspiration for forward looks: giving you the new norm.

See the light: Within the looks Wella Professionals creates a deliberate random play of light and dark, soft and dense color. In synergy with cut, style and texture, ILLUMINA COLOR accentuates every type of cut and texture that lives in the New Norm world. While providing irresistible hair quality.

This hairdressing grand event provided a good opportunity for liberating heart and showing ability.

Through rounds of fierce competition, 24 hairdressing elites completed a challenge for self-personality blooming with bold creation and persistent belief and with "color" shining brilliantly in this "Ultra Contouring" visual feast. At 2017 Wella Trend Award, Ms Selina Li, the General Manager

WITH THE THEME OF 2017 WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD, 2017 INTERNATIONAL SPRING/SUMMER TREND OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS - "ULTRA CONTOURING" ENLIGHTENED THE AUDIENCE ABOUT THE TREND AND HOW IT WAS BEING INTERPRETED BY THE 24 FINALISTS.

Coty operates three divisions - Coty Consumer Beauty, which is focused on color cosmetics, retail hair coloring and styling products, body care and mass fragrances sold primarily in the mass retail channels with brands such as COVERGIRL, Max Factor and Rimmel; Coty Luxury, which is focused on prestige fragrances and skincare with brands such as Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Hugo Boss, Gucci and philosophy; and Coty Professional Beauty, which is focused on servicing salon owners and professionals in both hair and nail, with brands such as Wella Professionals, Sebastian Professional and OPI. Coty has approximately 20,000 colleagues globally and its products are sold in over 130 countries. Coty and its brands are committed to a range of social causes as well as seeking to minimize its impact on the environment.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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TRENDS

EXPERT MAKEUP ARTIST SHARES HIS TOP BOLD BEAUTY LOOKS The fun in beauty is about experimentation and trying new looks. According to L'OrÊal Paris celebrity makeup artist Sir John, bold makeup is one trend having a major beauty moment. While a more natural look will never go out of style, there is no better time than fall to embrace a bold look – whether metallics, color blocking or dramatic lashes. When it comes to pulling off this trend, he notes it is all about finding the shades and textures that pair best together.

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

L'Oréal Paris Celebrity Makeup Artist Sir John Encourages People To Go Bold …

Bold With Makeup Sir John says, "Metallic and color block makeup are the looks I keep coming back to with all my clients. If you are looking for a quick way to add color and texture, try playing up your favorite features with either technique.

But sometimes, a bold lash is the only thing you need to create a bold and dramatic look."

METALLIC MAKEUP: To achieve a metallic makeup look focused on the lip, Sir John suggests balancing brightness with an opposite matte texture.

To do this, apply a matte foundation on skin like Infallible Total Cover to contrast the more daring and high-impact Infallible Paints Metallic Lipcolors.

To keep the focus on the lips, leave eye makeup minimal and finish with a glowy

cheek using True Match Lumi Liquid Highlighter. A second way to rock the metallic trend is to wear metallics on the eyes. Similarly, Sir John recommends applying Infallible Paints Metallics Eye Shado w with a matte lip in order to balance the brightness. Again, finish off this look by lightly illuminating the cheeks with a golden light reflective product like True Match Lumi Liquid Glow Illuminator.

COLOR BLOCK MAKEUP: Sir John recommends using an intensive eyeliner and a lip color in velvety matte finishes for a bold color block look. Use colors that will pop against one's skin tone. For fair skin, try a pink lip and cobalt eyeliner or mascara. For medium to tan skin, try an orange lip and violet eyeliner. For deep skin, try a purple lip and ivy green eyeliner. Sir John suggests Infallible Paints Eyeliner and Colour Riche Matte Lipstick.

BOLD LASHES: Dramatic lashes are always in style and are a simple way to make a bold statement. Sir John suggests starting out with Voluminous Lash Primer. Allow time to dry before applying eyeliner, like Voluminous Liner Noir to the entire lash line, followed by Voluminous Lash Paradise Mascara in Blackest Black.

Wait a few minutes for the mascara to dry, and apply a second coat for added volume and drama.

For extra curl, use Voluminous Lash Paradise Waterproof Mascara – the waterproof formula curls the lashes and gives them a hold, just like hairspray.

Finish bold lashes off with soft skin, rosy cheeks and a favorite lip color.

All products are available at lorealparisUSA.com, and mass, food and drug retailers nationwide.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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MAKE UP

Millennial Women downplay the time and effort they put into their look When Did Caring About the Way You Look Become a Bad Thing? TRESemmé Encourages Women Who 'Work It' to Embrace Their #HairStatement In today's world of "woke up like this" social selfies, it's easy to feel like putting in effort to look great is going out of style. TRESemmé knows that putting effort into your appearance doesn't mean you're high maintenance or that you don't mean business, yet 70% of millennial women said they feel the need to downplay the time and effort they put into their look.

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RESemmé, the #1 Styling Brand in the U.S., has launched "Work It," a celebration of women who unapologetically value putting in 'the work' to their look because it translates to them feeling empowered at work, in relationships, and beyond.

The brand partnered with clinical psychologist and confidence expert Dr. Judy Ho to poll millennial women and found that hair can actually give women the confidence to walk taller every day.

"68% of women feel there is a stereotype about women who spend time on their appearance. The hesitation seems to come from the belief that women may be taken less seriously if they look 'doneup,' especially in a professional setting.

However, we know that most women believe that their hair and beauty routine contributes greatly to their confidence, which leads them to feel more effective in work and social settings," explains Dr. Ho.

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Women today view their hair as a personal statement about their attitude—their look is not just for show.

TRESemmé wanted to reflect this and celebrate the women who proudly acknowledge 'the work', and is working with women across beauty, tech, design and fashion to share what their #HairStatement is.

The brand has joined forces with women who 'Work It' – from fearless NYFW designers such as Rebecca Minkoff and Cushnie et Ochs, to a beauty app innovator such as Cara Santana – to share their personal Hair Statements and to channel the confidence that comes with 'the work' that goes into their look.

Other women who are part of the campaign include: TRESemmé Global Stylist, Justine Marjan; Designer, Adriana Castro; Artist & Model, Anastasia Lovera; Illustrator, Meghann Stephenson; Hip-Hop Yoga Pioneer, Sarah Levey and Professional Dancer, Stevie Dore.

"As the #1 haircare brand in the U.S., it was important to us to be able to give every woman an opportunity to use their unique hair and style to make a statement, and we thought there was no better way to do that than by bringing them a personal hair stylist who could help them get there," says Unilever Vice President of Hair Care, North America, Piyush Jain.

Starting today through September 23rd, 2017, women across the country can create their own unique Hair Statement through The Glam App, compliments of TRESemmé.

Women can simply download The Glam App, choose TRESemmé's Work It Waves Style and input the code "TRESWorkIt" to cover the cost of creating their own Hair Statement with a professional stylist.

TRESemmé Launches Exclusive #HairStatement for The Glam App The Glam App has announced it will launch a custom look

by TRESemmé, curated by Chief Creative Officer Joey Maalouf and featuring CEO, Cara Santana. One limited-edition hair look will be available exclusively to The Glam App customers in select cities for a limited time only.

Renowned hair care brand TRESemmé has partnered with The Glam App to curate this one of a kind limited edition look. The partnership between TRESemmé and The Glam App began by featuring CEO, Cara Santana in the campaign's short video, which went live last Thursday. Santana will also be moderating an intimate media panel for female empowerment hosted by TRESemmé to follow this news later in the month of August.

The look called "Work It Waves," will be available on the app starting August 23, 2017 through September 23, 2017. Customers can access and book the complimentary curated looks by downloading The Glam App and selecting the TRESemmé limited-edition style with the code TRESWorkIt and by posting their personal #HairStatement on social media.

"We wanted to create a universal look that would look good with any length of hair. We worked with Cara's natural hair cut, which is a bob, to show women that you can still make a statement with any hair length or texture," says Joey Maalouf, The Glam App co-founder. "Work It Waves is the perfect look for any occasion." The link to download The Glam App can be found here. For more information on the partnership, please visit https://www.theglamapp. com or follow on Instagram, @TheGlamApp and @TRESemme ABOUT THE GLAM APP: The Glam App was started by actress/fashion tastemaker Cara Santana and longtime friend and celebrity stylist, Joey Maalouf. Born out of the desire to help cultivate the craft of emerging local artists, while at the same time providing an affordable, luxurious beauty experience for everyone, The Glam App was officially launched in 2015.

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Connected Beauty: The Unavoidable Challenge FOR ITS SEVENTH EDITION, THE MAKEUP IN NEWYORK TRADE SHOW WILL HOLD A THOROUGH CONFERENCE AND ROUNDTABLE PROGRAM ON SEPTEMBER 19 AND 20 BLENDING TRENDS AND INSIGHTS FROM EXPERT SPEAKERS OF THE INDUSTRY. The two-day program will emphasize the key influences of the US market as well as international influence that shape the future of the Beauty Industry.

Leading Trend Specialists, Experts and Brand representatives will cover the most exciting changes in the industry and the key challenges for the future.

"We are living an exciting era for Beauty", explains Leila Rochet-Podvin, Founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation who helped the MakeUp in the curation of the conference program. "The beauty industry is undertaking major disruptive changes due to the rise of technology and new alternative paths of consumer purchases. This leads to major changes that will impact the future of beauty".

Together with Karen Young, US Industry Expert and founder of the Karen Group and CharlesEmmanuel Gounod, Founder of

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BeautyWorld, the team has set up a high level of Trends & Insight conference program for the visitors of the show.

This year conference and roundtable will gather 35 top level speakers around key topics that will influence the future of our industry. The first day of the program, on September 19, will focus on The US Beauty Industry – Trends & Strength of a Growing Market That Shines Internationally with a high profile program.

EXPLORING THE STATE OF THE US BEAUTY INDUSTRY AND WHAT'S NEXT Amanda R. González, Specialist, Makeup Industry Analyst, Beauty at the NPD Group will present the "State overof the U.S. view Industry", of current an trends, consumer behavior, and future opportunities for the makeup category.

THIS PRESENTATION WILL COVER FOUR MAIN AREAS: Market performance (categories, retail channels), Growth Drivers (segments and themes), Trend Overview (past 12 months key factors) and What's Next?

Amanda R. González, Specialist and Makeup Analyst at the NPD Group, is an expert in the prestige makeup category.

Her passion for the beauty industry and market research enable her to leverage her keen understanding of analytics and identif y trends within the category. Amanda is dedicated to decoding data for beauty companies, empowering them to make

the informed consumer and data driven decisions that impact their business.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

HOW NEW TECHNOLOGIES & SCIENCES ARE DRIVING THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY? Technology has shaken up all industries, especially the makeup industry.

Consumers are embracing the advances in science and technology, as they improve their day-to-day lives and increase their sense of empowerment.

What are the latest advanced in this field?

How will technology & science impact the future of our beauty industry?

This session will be introduced and moderated by Leila Rochet-Podvin and Charles Emmanuel Gounod. Guive Balooch, Global Vice President of

Guive Balooch is a scientist who is dedicated to bringing cutting-edge technology to the beauty industry. A native of California, Guive has a B.A. in Molecular and Cell Biology from University of California, Berkeley and Ph.D. in Biomaterials from University of California, San Francisco. As the Global Vice President of L'Oréal's Technology Incubator, Guive has helped L'Oréal

evolve from a legacy beauty company to a true tech player that's shaking up the industry by bringing digital beauty experiences to consumers everywhere.

L'Oréal's Technology Incubator, will present "L'Oréal's Technology Incubator, where technology and beauty meet". This unique team, part of L'Oréal's R&I arm, develops leading innovations such as the Make Up Genius app (over 20 million uploads), Lancôme's Le Teint Particulier customized foundation, as well as the My UV Patch.

Guive will share these innovative projects and will explain L'Oréal's focus on being the leader in beauty tech innovation; why innovation is important for both the industry and consumers and how advancements in beauty can inform broader research and other industry innovation.

will be co-presented by Norah Lewin - Global Brand Lead - Beauty, Google and Charlotte van der Smeede, Brand Lead, Google. Google's innovative search technologies connect millions of people around the world with information every day. Norah and Charlotte will focus on what the future will look like according to Google and the implication for Beauty.

Norah Lewin manages Google's relationships with L'Oreal's Global Beauty Brands. Her team is tasked with activating Google's insights, expertise, and platforms to solve business challenges for the L'Oreal's brands.

Norah leads the development of innovative YouTube content programs, insight reports, precision advertising initiatives, and digital upskilling. Norah brings over ten years of digital experience with seven years specializing in the beauty industry.

Charlotte van der Smeede manages Google's relationships with Maybelline, L'Oreal's Professional Products Division and The Body Shop, within a team dedicated to supporting L'Oreal USA.

Designed as a st ar tup within a large organization, L'Oréal's Technology Incubator partners with entrepreneurs, academic institutions and experts across a diverse array of fields to unearth breakthrough research and first-to market technologies.

Next to building brand solutions using Google's platforms and technologies to address brand challenges and build brand equity, she also leads Content within the team by scaling content initiatives (e.g. channel audits, content performance reviews, YouTube content programs, etc.) across all L'Oreal USA brands.

"What will the future look like according to Google? How can beauty brands make the most out of future technologies?"

Emma Fric, Head of Research & Future Insights at Peclers Paris will bring a prospective vision from the leading trend, style and innovation international

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consultancy agency, PeclersParis. Her presentation, "Technology, Science & Beauty– How they mingle and how they lead to success?" will focus on major changes in consumer habits and developments in technology and science. Inspired by the latest chapter of Futur(s)#16, Peclers' yearly analysis deciphering consumers' future needs, "conquering techno-sciences", this conference will also look at the implication for the beauty industry.

Emma Fric is an expert in bringing together diverse environments, as her professional career demonstrates.

Emma joined the PeclersParis team in 2007, first as Development and Client Strategy Manager, then as head of the Department of Research and Future Insight after a career in Strategic Planning and Consulting.

brands category grew by 20% last year in the US. Retailers are keen to participate to this evolution by bringing in Indie exclusives and creative exclusive "hunted by" sections in their department stores.

Many organizations are creating their own incubators to help small brands get on their feet. These organizations provide resources and sometimes investment. What are the new keys to success?

What are the rising brands? How Indies are exploding the skincare/makeup standards?

THIS ROUNDTABLE WILL GATHER TOP SPEAKERS: - Andrew Shore, Managing Director at Moelis & Company, a leading global independent investment bank.

- Dianna Ruth, COO & Co-Founder of Milk Makeup

- Linda Treska, CEO & Founder of Pinch of Colour.

- Maura Mandell, CEO & Founder of MPWR Skin Care The second roundtable will gather leading legacy brands, moderated by Leila Rochet Podvin, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, with the title "Legacy Brands – New paths of innovation". Legacy brands are still leading the US market and adapting to new challenges of the market and the rise of a more connected consumer.

They have accelerated their rate of innovation; invested in new retail concepts and in social media. What are the latest innovative paths of legacy brands?

How do they transform the beauty experience? How do they participate to the social conversation?

In charge of the Futur(s) trend book, she recruited a team to identify the emerging signals that will shape tomorrow's world, and help clients analyze trends and develop distinctive directions, guided by her motto, which is to "rehumanize brands".

THE NEW INNOVATIVE PATHS – THE RISE OF THE CREATIVE BRANDS – HOW INDIE BRANDS ARE REDISTRIBUTING THE CARDS OF CREATIVITY? HOW LEGACY BRANDS ARE ACCELERATING THEIR INNOVATION? One year after the round table on the impact of Indies at the MakeUp in NewYork 2016, what has changed? How international brands are taking part to the rise of the Creative class? Introduction

by Leila Rochet-Podvin, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation and Karen Young, The Young Group, this theme will be covered by two roundtables.

A first roundtable dedicated to "Indie Brands – Today's Beauty Pioneers" - will be moderated by Karen Young. The Indie

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

It's a 10 Haircare Announces New Senior VP of Global Sales, Steven Clopton It's a 10 Haircare, the go-to hair care brand for salon professionals and clients across the globe, is proud to announce the addition of Steven Clopton to their executive team as Senior Vice President of Global Sales.

For over two decades Clopton has been a leader in the professional haircare and retail beauty industry, bringing a wealth of experience, knowledge, and new perspective to the brand.

Prior to his career in professional hair, Steven spent 5 years in management for beauty retailers such as Sephora, The Body Shop and Bath and Body Works.

He started his career in the professional beauty industry as a sales consultant for Maly's in 2002.

Steven then spent 11 years with Henkel Beauty Care as the National Director of Sales for the Schwarzkopf professional brand. Since November 2016, Steven has served as the Vice President of Sales for Revlon under the Professional Brands Division which included American Crew, Revlon Professional, CND and d:fi brands.

He joins CEO and founder of It's a 10 Haircare, Carolyn Aronson, who became the sole owner of the company in January of this year, alongside one of America's top marketing minds, President of It's a 10 Haircare, Jeff Aronson. "I've looked long and hard for the last few years to fill this position and my patience has paid off! Steven's talent and experience will be an amazing complement to the company.

Hair Cuttery Donates More Than 61,000 Haircuts to Underprivileged Children HAIR CUTTERY HELPS CHILDREN RETURN TO SCHOOL WITH A FRESH NEW HAIRCUT Hair Cuttery, the largest family-owned and -operated chain of hair salons in the country, today announced a donation of 61,481 free haircut certificates to disadvantaged children ahead of the new school year.

From August 1-15, youth across the U.S. had the opportunity to give back to their peers; for every haircut purchased by or for a child up to age 18, one was donated back to a child in need in their local community.

The certificates were distributed through more than 140 state and local government and non-profit organizations nationwide. "We want kids to return to school feeling great and ready to hit the ground running," said Dennis Ratner, founder and CEO of Hair Cuttery. "We are passionate about our unique Share-A-Haircut program because we can make a positive impact on kids and families in our communities.

Something as simple as a haircut can make children feel confident and excited to go back to school."

In addition to in-store donations, Hair Cuttery engaged thoUSAnds of supporters online. For the 10,047 users who shared a campaign image via Facebook, an additional free haircut certificate was added to the donation tally. To date, the Share-AHaircut program has reached more than 1.1 million children with haircut certificate donations, valued at $21.76 million.Hair Cuttery has an established history of charitable giving, supporting a range of local and national causes including, St. Baldrick's Foundation, American Red Cross, American Cancer Society, Girls on the Run and The National Network to End Domestic Violence.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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EUROPE

FIRST INVESTMENT FROM FUND II CONTINUES FOCUS ON CONSUMER BRANDED COMPANIES

Yellow Wood Partners, a Boston-based private equity firm focused on investing in consumer brands and companies, today announced the acquisition of Freeman Beauty, a leading specialty beauty company with a portfolio of brands across the skin care, hair care, foot care and specialty bath and body categories, from Champlain Capital, a private equity firm with offices in San Francisco and Boston.

Yellow Wood is investing in Freeman in partnership with CEO Jon Achenbaum and the company's senior management team. Dana Schmaltz, Founding Partner of Yellow Wood Partners, said, "Freeman is a beauty industry pioneer that has created strong differentiated brand identity throughout its history.

The company's brands are recognized as leaders in the mass facial mask and dry shampoo categories and enjoy broad distribution in mass and specialty oriented beauty and personal care channels.

Yellow Wood's focus is to partner with great brands with strong consumer loyalty where we can help accelerate growth and assist with cost efficiencies. We have great confidence in the future potential of Freeman's brands and look forward to working with Jon Achenbaum and his team to fully expand into new and existing channels."

Freeman Beauty acquired by Yellow Wood Partners shampoo, c.Booth bath and body care products, and Bare Foot foot treatments.

Freeman's brands are marketed in the food, drug, mass, and specialty beauty retail sectors, in addition to e-commerce channels. Freeman is based in Los Angeles and for more information, visit www.freemanbeauty.com.

Jon Achenbaum, CEO of Freeman, said, "We believe there is a substantial opportunity to grow distribution with all of our customers, and especially to expand outside of the U.S. and Canada into international markets including South America and Europe.

The team at Yellow Wood fully understands our brands and customers, and together with their functional-area operating experience can help expand our products to new and existing categories and identify consumers around the world who will enjoy our products."

Tad Yanagi, Partner a t Ye l l o w Wo o d , said, "Freeman has a proven track record of

bringing nature-inspired and efficacious products quickly to the mass channel and we expect to optimize their new product development initiatives by focusing on the key brands. We hope to leverage our success in beauty and personal care to build on Freeman's leading position in the market and help guide the company through an extraordinary period of growth."

Yellow Wood recently completed fund raising for its oversubscribed Yellow Wood Capital Partners II LP, with $370 million of committed capital. In July, the firm completed the $1.425 billion sale of PDC Brands, a rapidly growing provider of beauty, personal care, and wellness brands, after quadrupling the company's revenue and growing EBITDA by over five times.

Freeman's iconic brands serve categories with explosive growth and include Feeling Beautiful, the #1 facial mask brand in the mass market. Freeman has a proven track record over the last several years of innovation across its portfolio of brands, which also includes Beauty Infusions facial masks, Psssst! dry

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Klorane Brings Best Of Natural Care To Beauty Brands World-renowned since 1966 for its leadership in plant-based, sustainably-sourced care, Klorane announces its rollout this month to all Beauty Brands locations. Recognized as a one-stop beauty destination with its fusion of retail, salon and spa services, Beauty Brands offers over 200 premium brands (marquee brands and indie labels) in hair care, cosmetics, skincare and fragrance. As part of its unique retail experience, Beauty Brands showcases expert-curated products, hosts beauty tutorials and provides one-on-one consultations and premium salon services including express facials and hair design.

LEADING FRENCH BEAUTY BRAND BEGINS ROLLOUT TO TOP EXPERT-CURATED BEAUTY RETAILER

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lorane's entry into the 62 Beauty Brands stores, with a concentration in the Mid-West and South, begins mid-August. Beauty Brands will carry a deep assortment of Klorane hair care products and the brand's iconic Cornflower range of soothing makeup removal and eye-area care products.

Klorane devotees and new fans will find a wide range of options on Beauty Brands shelves, from the award-winning Klorane Dry Shampoos to the brand's selection of biodegradable products to the top-selling Chamomile range for enhancing blond highlights, as well as cult-favorite Smoothing and Relaxing Patches with Soothing Cornflower.

"The superior personalized expertise that Beauty Brands offers in combination with strong expertise in hair care makes them the perfect partner for Klorane," says Jacqueline Flam, Vice President, Retail

and Salon. "Known as the 'luxury beauty experience that you can enjoy every day,' Beauty Brands is the ideal environment for Klorane's positioning as a premium but accessible brand backed by the most rigorous standards of patented research and development."

Klorane's expanding distribution in the USA also includes Ulta Beauty, select Sephora stores, Bluemercury, Anthropologie, Net-A-Porter.com and, most recently, Revolve.com.

ABOUT KLORANE: For more than 50 years, Klorane has excelled in combining the best of nature with the best of science.

Only the purest plant extracts selected to target specific hair and skin needs go into formulas created with Klorane's proven pharmaceutical know-how to develop a broad collection of efficacious hair and

skin care products suitable for the entire family. Clinically proven to deliver high performance, the line is 100% vegan, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)-free and utilizes the lowest number of ingredients for the highest efficacy and safety.

With a long heritage dedicated to exploring the plant universe to discover the most effective plants for each particular beauty concern, Klorane uses only plants grown by their own farmers.

As a result, Klorane can ensure that sustainable farming techniques are practiced, and that each plant offers 100% traceability. This philosophy maintains unparalleled quality standards to guarantee the highest levels of purity, safety and proven performance in all Klorane products.

For more information about Klorane, please visit kloraneUSA.com.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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AMERICA

Bioré Skincare Launches Its 2017 Limited Edition Pore Strips To celebrate the launch of their new Limited Edition Deep Cleansing Pore Strips, Bioré Skincare is partnering with Girl Up, a campaign of the United Nations Foundation that mobilizes girls and women across the globe to raise awareness and funds for United Nations programs that help adolescent girls in need.

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he charity's SchoolCycle initiative aims to eliminate one of the biggest obstacles keeping girls out of school: distance. The program provides bicycles to girls in developing countries so they can access education and stay in school.

With actress and Brand Ambassador Shay Mitchell supporting the partnership, Bioré Skincare's donation of 200

bikes will go a long way towards helping girls in need create a brighter future for themselves. #MAKEPEACEWITHYOURPORES: You can show your support for the SchoolCycle cause – while spreading peace and love and prepping your pores for the upcoming school year – with Bioré Skincare's new Limited Edition

Deep Cleansing Pore Strips, which are designed in peaceful tie-dyed patterns filled with splashes of inspiring color.

Just put on a strip, snap a selfie, and post it on Snapchat and Instagram using #MakePeaceWithYourPores and tagging @Bioreus and @girlupcampaign. #SPREADTHELOVE: While you're showing your support for girls in need, this trendy tie-dyed pore strip will draw out an entire week's worth of buildup in just 10 minutes.

Thanks to proprietary C-bond technology, when you remove the strip, the debris lifts away with it, revealing a clean complexion. When used regularly, Bioré Skincare's Pore Strips not only decongest your pores, but also reduce their appearance, so you can go back to school having made peace with your pores while showing off your best skin. #HOWTOUSE: After washing your face, thoroughly wet your nose. Peel the plastic liner off the back of the strip and press the strip on your skin, smooth side down.

Let it dry for 10-15 minutes, while you snap your pretty pore-strip selfies and share them with your friends. Then slowly and carefully peel off the strip, starting at the edges.

Bioré Skincare Limited Edition Deep Cleansing Pore Strips are available for a limited time for $6.49 at select food, drug and mass merchant stores. For more information, visit www.biore.com. For more information on Girl Up and the SchoolCycle initiative, visit www.girlup. org/schoolcycle.

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

BRIGHTEN DULL SKIN. Dehydration can do more than just leave your skin feeling dry and tight, it can also dull your complexion.

Restore radiance with skin brightening supplements, serums, gels, or creams infused with natural lighteners - such as Vitamin C, Bearberry, Licorice, and Mulberry - which help lighten discolorations and even skin tone to reveal a brighter you.

SLATHER ON SPF MOISTURIZER. Skin of color may be less prone to sun damage but it is prone to dark spots and hyperpigmentation from sun exposure.

And increased sun exposure can accelerate the signs of aging therefore, sunscreen is a daily essential.

Makari de Suisse is distributed in more than 50 countries globally and sold online at www.makari.com.

5 Tips to keep Dark Skin Fashionably Flawless Even toned, healthy-looking beautiful skin is always on trend but seasonal changes can affect how fabulous it looks. Skin of color is especially sensitive to cooler temperatures becoming water-deficient and in cases of dry skin types, oil deficient.

It's important to be attentive and listen to your skin. Increased breakouts, dark spots, dryness, and sensitivity are all signs that you need to modify your skincare routine to specifically address your skin's needs.

Be Gentle to Face. As temperatures start to cool, your skin produces less oil which may cause dryness. To help

retain moisture, use a mild cleanser when washing the face so as not to strip the skin. A gentle cleansing lotion can do a more effective job of dissolving makeup on the face and within the pores leaving skin comfortably clean and refreshed.

(Makari Deep Cleansing Lotion, 4.75 fl.oz., $33.95) TONE‌TONE..TONE. If your daily routine doesn't include using a toner, start now! Cooling temperatures can dehydrate skin depriving it of water important to maintain balance. Skin toners help restore skin's natural pH balance, control oil, slough away dead skin cells, clear impurities and refine pores for a brighter, more vibrant appearance. (Makari Purifying and Cleansing Toner, 4.75 fl.oz., $39.95)

A nourishing, cream moisturizer with broad spectrum SPF 15 will help protect and revitalize sun exposed skin. Look for a moisturizer formulated with hyaluronic acid, allantoin, and glycolic acid to soften texture and stimulate collagen production for a supple, youthful appearance.

NOURISH YOUR GLOW. Skin of color is sensitive to harsh winds which may cause excessive dryness. Using a natural oil-based moisturizer will boost antioxidant protection, balance hydration levels in skin, nourish and protect it.

Apply oil after bath or shower to lock in moisture improving skin's appearance and texture. (Makari Extreme Argan & Carrot Botanical Body Oil, 4.23 fl.oz., $24.95) ABOUT MAKARI DE SUISSE Makari de Suisse manufacturers the most luxurious, highest quality Swissformulated skincare offering targeted, problem-solving products addressing the skincare needs of diverse, multi-hued skin of color from hyperpigmentation, excess oil production, hydration to anti-aging.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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Early warning signs point to a slowdown in beauty retail Following quarter after quarter of rampant growth, some signs of a slowdown in the U.S. beauty market are starting to appear, cooling some optimism for this once-hot sector. The initial warning sign occurred in early July when reports surfaced that there was more promotional activity at department stores' cosmetics counters — once a big no-no for these large retailers.

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e've seen our competitors start to discount items like cosmetics, and I'm sure they're saying we're doing it," Jerry Storch, CEO of Hudson's Bay, the parent company of department store chain Saks Fifth Avenue, said on a recent conference call. "Once you get into that kind of a situation, everyone is fighting for every inch."

Department stores had long been the only destination for women to browse for more expensive brands of blushes, lipsticks and perfumes. But nontraditional players like Ulta, LVMH's Sephora and Macy's Bluemercury came into the mix and changed the beauty landscape, and were rewarded with robust growth.

more challenging for ULTA to deliver the same level of comp and earnings upside investors have grown accustomed to."

This news, when combined with tough year-over-year comparisons, all point to a more "challenging beauty backdrop" for certain retailers in the coming quarters, Parikh said. And one can't forget the ever-present threat of Amazon, which is rumored to be considering partnering with beauty supplier Violet Grey.

to Dior. These are partnerships Amazon. com hasn't been able to secure yet.

"Because you have this area of strength [in beauty], a lot of retailers are trying to play," Parikh said. Within the past two years, Ulta has surpassed smaller rivals Sephora, Bluemercury and others to become the nation's largest makeup merchant. Amid growing competition and the threat of falling foot traffic at stores, Ulta is still finding ways to lure shoppers through its doors.

The younger e-retailer's website sells products from big-name brands ranging from Chanel to MAC to Tom Ford

"ULTA's loyalty, prestigious brand access, & mass offerings drive traffic and are competitive moats, enabling ULTA to

However, cosmetics giant L'Oreal on its latest earnings conference call pointed to softer trends in its North American beauty business. This caught one analyst's attention, and he quickly issued a downgrade on Ulta's stock.

"If our read of L'Oreal's assessment is accurate, this, coupled with increased department store discounting, could suggest a less robust U.S. beauty market," Oppenheimer & Co. analyst Rupesh Parikh wrote in a Monday note to clients.

"As a result, we now view the backdrop as 64

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

But if you "peel back the layers of the onion," Ulta still has tremendous runway for growth, he added, and at least for a number of years. Ulta has managed to come out of the "shadow" of the department stores, proving it can survive and thrive as a stand-alone business, Chris Conlon, chief operating officer of retail real estate investment trust Acadia, told CNBC in an interview. "They are the best example of moving out of that [department store] box."

protect & gain share," Cowen and Co. analyst Oliver Chen wrote in a recent note to clients. In some ways, Chen said he believes Ulta could become the "Amazon of beauty." The beauty retailer has managed to turn itself into both an online and offline shopping destination, and importantly one that key cosmetics and skin care brands are actually looking to partner with, he added. "As our readers know, we have been and remain quite bullish on ULTA's prospects due to a combination of company-specific initiatives, new product launches including MAC, and one of the strongest managements in retail," Oppenheimer's Parikh made sure to mention when he downgraded the stock earlier this week. But for now, the company is struggling to convince Wall Street of the same story. Expectations have been set sky-high.

Ulta's stock has fallen about 8 percent over the past six months and is down nearly 14 percent for the past three months, owing much to recent chatter about increased promotions and makeup demand on the decline. "Ulta is a victim of their own success," KeyBanc analyst Jason Gere told CNBC. "I think the stock is weak because people are saying all these good things can't last forever. ‌ [Business] has to slow at some point."

After being "defined for decades as the ground floor of a department store where you were assaulted ... with samples and testers," the beauty sector has shown it's capable of changing from that, Conlon said. The beauty business, he added, is still a hot-ticket item for real estate folks.

Landlords want a bite of that apple, if they can get it.

Time Equities, a New York-based real estate agency and advisor, told CNBC that its business is still seeing strong demand from beauty operators in 2017, despite talk of the sector cooling off. Ami Ziff, who leads the firm's national retail team, said Time Equities is currently working on four prospective Ulta stores within its portfolio.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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Meantime, Ulta is scheduled to open its first location in Manhattan later this year — a 12,000-square-foot box on the Upper East Side. Sephora and Bluemercury are both in close proximity down the block, but Ulta's footprint will undoubtedly be the biggest of the group.

The market still looks to be fair game for other retail players, too. At least no one company is really slowing growth. Target and internet giant Amazon, for example, are looking to beef up their beauty offerings. "[Target is] bringing in things that are trending, bringing in reasonably priced product and trying to get consumers excited," NPD Group's beauty analyst, Larissa Jensen, told CNBC. "Amazon is definitely going after beauty in a different way."

Amazon, Jensen said, is really able to win in beauty when it comes to replenishment — when women know exactly what they want, and when they want it. Online players still only bring in less than 20 percent of total beauty dollar sales, NPD has found.

Most females refuse to give up the "touch and feel" aspect of shopping when looking for the right shade of powder, lip gloss or eye shadow.

The threats and talk of Amazon making a bigger push into prestige beauty online are overblown and shouldn't steal from Ulta's success, Cowen's Chen said. In fact, Ulta is looking to make its own push online, he pointed out. Ulta has set the bar high because of what investors have seen — double-digit growth in the high teens for same-store sales, quarter after quarter, Anthony Chukumba, an analyst at Loop Capital, told CNBC in an interview.

"But a sequential slowdown wouldn't end well. Absolutely not. … The next earnings report is going to be so pivotal." Ulta is set to report earnings after the bell on Thursday, Aug. 24. For now, Ulta's biggest concern is that the company doesn't get too complacent with where it stands against its competitors.

And that it keeps its store concept fresh, its customers satisfied and its investors believers.

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Cosmetic surgery may help patients quit smoking If you're a smoker considering cosmetic surgery, your plastic surgeon will likely require you to stop smoking for at least two weeks before your procedure. A long-term follow-up study finds that many patients receiving these instructions will quit smoking, or at least smoke less, in the years after cosmetic surgery.

I

f you're a smoker considering cosmetic surgery, your plastic surgeon will likely require you to stop smoking for at least two weeks before your procedure. A long-term follow-up study finds that many patients receiving these instructions will quit smoking, or at least smoke less, in the years after cosmetic surgery, reports the September issue of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery®, the official medical journal of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS).

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

percent agreed that discussing their increased surgical risks with the plastic surgeon influenced their ability to quit or reduce smoking. However, one-half of patients admitted they did not follow the instructions to refrain from cigarette use before surgery. Nearly one-fourth continued to smoke up to the day of their procedure. Dr. Van Slyke and colleagues did not test to confirm whether patients had stopped smoking.

The complication rate after cosmetic surgery was higher in patients who continued to smoke: 24 percent versus 14 percent. (The difference was not statistically significant.) More serious wound-healing complications occurred in two patients -- both of whom did not follow the instructions to stop smoking.

Due to the negative effects of smoking on wound healing, many plastic surgeons are unwilling to perform cosmetic surgery procedures in patients who smoke. C

"Our results show an association between cosmetic surgery and smoking cessation at long-term follow-up," comments lead author Aaron C. Van Slyke, MD, MSc, of University of British Columbia, Vancouver. "Surgeons who request preoperative smoking cessation may influence patients' long-term smoking status."

MANY COSMETIC SURGERY PATIENTS QUIT OR REDUCE SMOKING The follow-up study included 85 patients who were smokers when evaluated for cosmetic surgery.

Like most plastic surgeons, Dr. Van Slyke and colleagues required patients to refrain from smoking for at least two weeks before elective procedures. Those instructions reflect a well-demonstrated increase in wound healing problems and

other negative outcomes among smokers after plastic surgery. Five years after cosmetic surgery, 47 patients responded to a follow-up survey. Most of the patients were women; the average age was 40 years.

The most common procedures were "tummy tuck" (abdominoplasty), breast lift (mastopexy), and facelift. After exclusion of five "social" smokers, the study included 42 patients who were daily smokers before cosmetic surgery.

In the follow-up survey, about 40 percent of patients said they no longer smoked cigarettes on a daily basis. Nearly one-fourth had not smoked at all since their cosmetic surgery procedure.

Most patients said they had reduced their cigarette use by any amount. Seventy

ompared to studies in other groups, the new findings suggest that cosmetic surgery patients seem more likely to quit or cut back on smoking at longterm follow-up. "This is consistent with previous research showing patients who seek to obtain cosmetic surgery are more motivated to sustain positive lifestyle changes," Dr. Van Slyke and coauthors write.

The results suggest that patients were more motivated to quit by "targeted messaging" with specific examples of the negative effects of smoking, rather than by a description of the general health benefits of smoking cessation.

The authors conclude, " [T]he dialogue between plastic surgeon and patient during the cosmetic surgery consultation serves as a unique moment to provide targeted smoking cessation counseling that may persist well beyond the surgical interaction."

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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HAIR

10 Questions to Ask Before You Change Your Hair Color Nowadays the range of hair color options—from buttery blonde hair to luscious "bronde" to lively unicorn hair color shades—makes it so tempting to experiment with your hair color, especially now when a fresh, back-to-school or back-to-work look is in your plans. But before you decide to go for that pink hair or mermaid color melt, the hair color experts at Matrix recommend asking yourself these 10 important hair color questions.

1. HOW MUCH HAIR COLOR CAN MY HAIR HANDLE? Integrity is the buzzword when it comes to assessing the degree of hair color your hair can handle safely, as in the integrity or health of your hair.

Every hair color process alters the structure of your hair, and the

2. HOW MUCH CAN MY BUDGET HANDLE? The degree to which you change your color will determine how much you will have to spend for the initial shift, and to maintain your new hue. If the change is substantial—say you're going from dark brown to platinum blonde— you will probably need several processes to achieve the light color, and then

you should plan to visit the salon every two-tothree weeks to touch up the new, dark growth.

A subtler hair color change that is one or two shades lighter or darker than your natural color will require less frequent touch ups and therefore less of an investment.

basic condition of your hair determines how quickly it will bounce back from the hair color service.

You r h ai r st y l ist will assess hair health factors like moisture level (is it super dry?), elasticity (does it return to its normal shape when stretched?) and damage (split ends anyone?) If these

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factors don't check out, it's best to opt for a more low-impact hair color option,

like a low-ammonia hair color gloss or hair color glaze. Balayage or ombré highlights are also ideal since they require infrequent touch-ups.

3. HOW OFTEN DO I WANT TO BE IN THE SALON? Hair color equals money + time, so you'll also have to factor the latter into the overall equation.

A hair color shift that needs frequent retouching also means you'll be spending more time in your stylist's chair.

4. DO I HAVE GREY HAIR TO COVER UP? If your natural hair color is dark, the addition of grey hair into the hair

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

color mix can be like adding another process to the equation. That's because different formulas will be needed to color the grey hair. Certain shades are also more difficult to achieve on grey hair since it can be coarse, wiry and more resistant to hair color formulas.

You and your hair stylist should take your grey into consideration when formulating your new hair color, and come up with a shade that won't require more maintenance than your budget or schedule allow.

5. HOW COMMITTED AM I TO THIS HAIR COLOR? Different types of hair color— permanent hair color, demi-permanent hair color, semi-permanent hair color—last for different lengths of time.

Permanent hair color is just that—it stays in your hair permanently.

Demi-permanent hair color lasts for about six to eight weeks, and then gradually fades

a w a y. S e m i p er manent hair color lasts usually lasts up to eight or ten shampoos before it fades away. The latter is a good choice if you're experimenting with a new hair color for the first time, or if you aren't sure if the shade you want is right for you for the long haul.

6. AM I ON THE SAME PAGE WITH MY STYLIST? The rose gold hair color you're envisioning may be completely different from the rose gold your hair stylist sees in her mind's eye. So pictures are everything.

Bring photographs of the precise shade you have in mind, as well as pictures of colors you absolutely don't want. Then be ready for a give and take. For example,

your stylist may point out that the shade in the front section on the picture of the model you love would be better than the shade on another part of her head.

7. AM I CLEAR ABOUT THE BEST WAY TO TAKE CARE OF MY NEW HAIR COLOR? Once you've invested your time and money in your new hair color, go the

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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HAIR

extra mile and invest in good shampoos and conditioners to care for it. After all, you wouldn't wash your beautiful silk lingerie the same way you wash your sheets and towels, right? Show your hair color the right amount of TLC with cleansing and conditioning formulas like Biolage R.A.W. https://www.matrix.com/biolage/raw which are created to coddle color-treated hair. And the more radical the hair color shift, the more you will need to replace moisture. Weekly or bi-weekly hair masks for damaged or dry hair, like Biolage R.A.W. Re-Hydrate https://www. matrix.com/biolage/raw/raw-products/ nourish/raw-re-hydrate-mask will bring thirsty strands back to life.

Neutral skin can go in any direction.

One quick way to determine if your skin is warm, cool or neutral is to look at the veins on the underside of your arm.

you're perceived. Think, therefore about how your new hair color will affect those perceptions.

If they're predominantly blue, you're cool. If they're predominantly green, you're warm. If they're blue-green, you're neutral.

Your burgundy hair tells the world you're an out-of-the-box sort who loves to shake things up. Your power-blonde highlights transmit a message of assurance and high standards.

10. HAVE I CHOSEN A SHADE THAT SENDS THE RIGHT MESSAGE? People form an impression of you within seconds of meeting you, long before you ever open your mouth. So your hair color will play a huge part in how

One look at your spicy red hair color and folks will assume you're the life of the party and up for anything. So before you settle in for a hair color switch, be sure your hair color is a true reflection of the real you!

8. AM I WILLING TO SWIM, SUN AND STYLE WITH CARE? Before you dive in, lay out or power up the dryers and irons, practice prevention.

Protect your hair color from salt water, chlorine and UV rays—all of which can strip it away or shift the color to something truly undesirable. Apply a hair mask like Biolage ColorLast https://www.matrix.com/biolage/core/ colorlast/colorlast-mask that coats your hair and then tuck it under a hat or cap.

Also, set your thermal tools to the lowest temperature possible for your hair type, and always use a heat protection hair product like Total Results Miracle Creator https://www.matrix.com/total-results/miracles/miracle/miracles-creator before styling.

9. HAVE I CHOSEN A FLATTERING SHADE FOR MY COMPLEXION? Every hair color—whether it's brown, green or purple—can be created in a tone that suits you. Cool hair color flatters cool complexions, so opt for mahogany brown, emerald green or eggplant if you're going for one of those shades.

Warmer versions of any hair color, on the other hand, are beautiful on warm skin tones.

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MATRIX, the leading professional haircare and haircolor company in the United States, is part of L'Oreal USA's Professional Products Division. Founded in 1980, MATRIX is committed to the development of the salon professional and offers a wide range of products including: Biolage, Biolage Advanced, Biolage Cleansing Conditioner, Biolage ExquisiteOil, Biolage Styling, COLORGRAPHICS, COLORINSIDER, Color Sync, Logics, Oil Wonders, SOBOOST, SOCOLOR, Style Link, and Total Results (MATRIX professional products are available only in salons and can be guaranteed authentic when purchased from authorized retailers.) Visit Matrix.com for hairstyle and haircolor inspiration as well as MATRIX trends and tips! Professionals visit www.mymatrixfamily.com for techniques, formulas, salon resources and much more!

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

During the broadcast of "The 2018 Miss America Competition," Aronson will share her story and talk about the promotion.

Registration at http://missamerica.itsa10haircare.com/ will close at the end of the broadcast of "The 2018 Miss America Competition" in each local time zone, meaning all who wish to register should do so before the new Miss America is announced on their local broadcast.

For full terms and conditions, please refer to the site.

It's a 10 Haircare becomes official professional Haircare sponsor of "The 2018 Miss America Competition" It's a 10 Haircare, the go-to hair care brand for professional stylists and clients across the globe, is proud to announce its role as the Official Professional Hair Care Sponsor of "The 2018 Miss America Competition."

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o celebrate, the brand is launching an unprecedented, interactive campaign offering everyone in America a chance to receive a free bottle of the brand's #1 selling Miracle Leave-In Product if the newly crowned Miss America comes from their state.

Starting today, residents of the fifty states and the District of Columbia can visit http://missamerica.itsa10haircare.com/ to register for this campaign.

Registered residents of the state from which the new Miss America hails will automatically receive a free 2 oz. Miracle Leave-In Product in the mail, courtesy of It's a 10 Haircare. In addition, everyone else who registered coast to coast and in Alaska and Hawaii will also receive a

coupon code for a free gift with purchase at Itsa10Haircare.com, regardless of their state. "This campaign is a way to celebrate not only the women making a difference in the Miss America Competition, but also our fans nationwide who are pursuing their unique dreams, careers and philanthropic endeavors," said Carolyn Aronson, Founder and CEO of It's a 10 Haircare.

"The Miss America Organization's philanthropic arm is particularly appealing to me, as I have made it my mission to give back in ways that empower women and celebrate diversity. Together, we are going to reach millions of Americans and help them feel recognized and inspired – we couldn't have hoped for a better partnership."

"The 2018 Miss America Competition" will broadcast live on ABC from Atlantic City's Boardwalk Hall on Sunday, September 10th (9:00-11:00p.m. ET & PT).

The Miss America Competition showcases the intellect, grace, and exceptional talent of 51 accomplished women representing their home states (and District of Columbia) as they compete for the coveted title of Miss America. As previously announced, Chris Harrison (ABC's "The Bachelor" franchise and "Who Wants To Be A Millionaire") returns to host the legendary competition, with Sage Steele (ESPN's "SportsCenter on the Road" and "SportsCenter: AM") joining as co-host.

Celebrity judges for the final night of the competition include Thomas Rhett, Molly Sims, Jordin Sparks, and Jess Cagle.

For the latest news, be sure to follow Miss America (@MissAmerica) and It's a 10 Haircare (@itsa10haircare) on social and join the conversation by using the official hashtag for the show, #MissAmerica.

ABOUT IT'S A 10 HAIRCARE: It's a 10 Haircare is an established, professional hair care line offering exceptional multipurpose products via salons and beauty supply stores worldwide. As one of the only female-owned professional hair care brands in the world, It's a 10 Haircare is dedicated to providing customers with the best hair experience possible.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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PERFUME

Global Perfumes Market Poised for Steady Growth Future Market Insights delivers key insights on the global perfumes market in a new report titled “Perfumes Market: Global Industry Analysis and Opportunity Assessment, 2016-2026”.

In terms of revenue, the global perfumes market is estimated to witness a CAGR of 5.9% over the forecast period.

In cr e a s i n g d e m an d f o r perfumes from the millennial population is likely to boost the growth of the global perfumes market during the forecast period.

Other factors fuelling demand for perfumes are increasing online retail penetration, product push strategy by key global players, and increasing consumer spending on luxury grooming.

SEGMENTATION HIGHLIGHTS The global perfumes market is segmented based on product type, demographics, distribution channel, ingredient type, and region. Based on product type, the market is sub-segmented into Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, and Eau Fraiche. Among all the product type segments, the Eau Fraiche segment is expected to account for the highest market share followed by the Eau de Toilette segment.

market is segmented on the basis of demographics into Men’s Perfume, Women’s Perfume, and Unisex Perfume.

The Unisex Perfume segment is projected to grow at a significant value CAGR over the forecast period. The Women’s Perfume segment is expected to witness Y-o-Y growth rates ranging from 4.0% to 5.2% over 2015-2026.

The market has also been segmented by distribution channel into Online Retail and Physical Retail. The Online Retail segment is anticipated to be the most attractive segment in terms of CAGR over the forecast period. The Physical Retail segment is anticipated to account for a significant market share of 80.5% by the end of 2016.

On the basis of ingredients used, the global perfumes market is segmented into Natural and Synthetic. The Natural segment is expected to witness Y-o-Y growth rates ranging from 5.5% to 6.5% over 2015-2026. The growing concern among consumers regarding use of chemicals in perfumes has forced manufacturers to shift from synthetic to natural ingredients, which will boost the growth of the Natural segment.

REGIONAL PROJECTIONS The global perfumes market is segmented into the seven key regions of North America, Latin America, Western Europe, Eastern Europe, Asia Pacific Excluding Japan (APEJ), Japan, and Middle East & Africa.

The Eau Fraiche segment is expected to register a significant CAGR of 7.9% during the forecast period in terms of value. The Eau de Cologne segment is projected to register the second highest CAGR of 7.0% over the forecast period.

To provide in-depth insights on the pattern of demand for perfumes, the

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International Cosmetics News | September 2017

The Western Europe market is estimated to dominate the global perfumes market, accounting for a maximum revenue share of the market by 2016 end. Collectively, Europe and North America markets are expected to account for over 50.8% revenue share of the global perfumes market by 2016 end. Among emerging markets, Asia Pacific excluding Japan is estimated to exhibit a significant CAGR of 10.2% over the forecast period, followed by the Middle East & Africa and Latin America markets, due to recent expansion by key players in these regions.

Perfumania Holdings Inc., Avon Products Inc., and Hermes. A key trend defining the global perfumes market is that larger players are focussing on enhancing their geographical presence and expanding their customer base by entering into strategic brand acquisitions. Product innovation such as travel sprays and rollerballs,

celebrity and youth oriented perfumes, and increasing demand for premium perfumes are the other key trends driving the perfumes market. Furthermore, perfume manufacturers are also increasingly investing in digital platforms and e-commerce sites to keep pace with the ever-changing consumer behaviour.

VENDOR INSIGHTS The report profiles some of the leading companies operating in the global perfumes market.

Top market players featured in the report are Estee Lauder Companies Inc., LVMH, Coty Inc., L’Oreal International, Elizabeth Arden Inc., Shiseido Co. Ltd., Puig,

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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SKINCARE

10 best anti-pollution skincare products

Protect your skin against the elements in the city and beyond with one of these hard-working moisturisers, masks and serums. If you live or work in an urban environment, there is ever more to cope with in the way of hidden airborne pollutants that, given half a chance, can damage, irritate and inflame our skin, clog our pores and worsen the effects of aging.

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o-one wants that, and moving on from the SPF creams we are used to, a new breed of skincare products aims to enhance environmental protection.

We need protection from urban dust, smog, smoke and exhaust fumes, as well as all the problems of sun exposure of which we are already aware.

The hazards are invisible, the success

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of the products in terms of protection is unquantifiable, so it is best to choose the ones that succeed in their primary function, whether serum, moisturiser, primer, cleanser or mask, while hoping for the value-added protective bonus.

The ones we feature below are those that our group of testers found most effective while trying to protect their skin from

encroaching pollution. A lot of brands go for a multi-pronged approach, with several complementary products that address environmental hazards, and we mention the ones we particularly liked alongside our “best in class” choices.

SARAH CHAPMAN SKINESIS SKIN INSURANCE SPF 30, 30ML: 30 ML £49, SPACE NK This slightly tinted, light and silky liquid spreads smoothly on the face and neck, giving a good base for foundation: so

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

combat signs of fatigue and aging and protect against free radical damage and pollution.

good that my usual brand simply glided over some fairly serious lines and wrinkles to the extent that I could almost pretend they weren’t there.

It has a reassuring smell of calamine lotion, so you feel that it must be doing you good. It is a seriously effective primer, as well as addressing some major concerns about UVA/UVB and other environmental aggressors. Quite honestly it had me at the “imperfection blurring”, the rest is a bonus.

technology with botanicals for products that give rapid results. It’s a favourite among beauty editors and we can see why.

While our tester found that the tangerinescented moisturiser felt quite thick and gloopy when applied, it then absorbed surprisingly fast to leave her skin ready for her normal foundation.

KIEHL'S CILANTRO AND ORANGE EXTRACT POLLUTANT DEFENDING MASQUE: £29, JOHN LEWIS Designed to protect against the visible effects of pollution including dull and unhealthy looking skin, as well as fortifying against environmental aggressors and helping to prevent impurities from adhering to skin, this mask promises a lot.

It didn’t add unwanted shine and in the daytime worked as a protective layer against UVB rays and other pollutants, while doubling up as a very effective night-time moisturiser as well.

Accompany it with Sunday Riley MicroDissolve Cleansing Oil, which works really well to remove any pollution from your skin.

Using it the recommended three times a week, she felt that it made her skin feel softer, and a bit plumper in the morning after use, and as you need so little each time, the pot will last for ages too.

REN CLARIMATTE INVISIBLE PORES DETOX MASK, 50ML: £22, REN SKINCARE This product uses minerals from clay to detoxify and purify skin facing city-living congestion, w h i l e re du c i ng t h e appearance of oiliness, open pores and blackheads. Our tester had not used a mask before and certainly liked this one; her initial impression when the mask was rinsed off was that her skin felt firmer, and this continued after subsequent uses.

SUNDAY RILEY C.E.O PROTECT AND REPAIR MOISTURISER, 50G: £60, SPACE NK Cosmetic chemist Sunday Riley created her brand to combine the latest

Her skin felt fresher than before the tests, and she will continue to use the mask regularly. She used it in conjunction with Ren V-Cense Youth Vitality Day Cream Anti-Aging, which promises to

The concerns addressed are all shared by our tester, who found it a delicious minty smelling product that was easy to apply, just putting a layer on clean skin, wiping most of it off after five minutes to leave a thin layer on overnight.

As visible signs of fatigue and aging are what concern her most, she felt that she was getting some good results after a couple of weeks, this will also stay in her regime.

SHISEIDO ANTI-AGING UV CARE URBAN ENVIRONMENT UV PROTECTION CREAM SPF 30: £31, JOHN LEWIS This SPF 30 cream promises skin protection for face and body against UVA/UVB rays, dryness and air pollution. The latter is certainly a worry for our London-dwelling tester, with almost daily air pollution warnings at the moment.

As a regular Tube user she was even keener on the idea of a barrier between her and the air around her. She found the cream light and pleasant smelling, best used under make up to avoid a shiny face, and in testing it certainly protected against sunburn. It is suitable for all skin types, and is also available in SPF 50.

THIS WORKS IN TRANSIT SKIN DEFENCE ANTI-AGING DAILY MOISTURISER AND SUNSCREEN WITH BROAD SPECTRUM SPF 45: £32, THIS WORKS As a golfer and gardener out in all weathers our tester knows just how necessary it is to protect the skin from the sun and, more importantly in Suffolk, the wind, for which a good moisturiser and sunscreen is key.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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SKINCARE

She was pleased that this product promised to combine the two, while protecting the skin from environmental damage, UVA aging and UVB burning, and keeping it nourished.

While the cream did not absorb quickly (which probably had something to do with such a high protection factor) it did settle down nicely, and she felt that overall it was effective to use in conjunction with the very thorough make-up remover pads, which use a combination of plant oils, rosewater, anti-inflammatory sweet almond oil and anti-bacterial water mint to remove impurities, and hydrate while gently cleaning the skin and leaving it refreshed.

ZELENS INTENSE DEFENCE ANTIOXIDANT SERUM: 30ML £125, JOHN LEWIS Starting with the (unusually and commendably) clear and legible information and instructions on the packs, there is a lot to like about these products.

Created by renowned plastic and reconstructive surgeon and expert in anti-aging skin care, Dr Marko Lens, the serum is designed to help fight against three types of free radicals.

It is designed to be worn under moisturiser and feels light and hydrating when you put it on, vanishing into the skin and leaving no residue. As well as its protecting role, it is intended to support natural collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Our tester was truly impressed with how good it felt to use, and a tiny amount was all she needed for good coverage of her entire face, so it will last a long time. It is a superior price - and, she felt, a superior product.

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She also liked the accompanying foaming cleanser, which was very kind to her sensitive skin, while getting down to some serious cleaning.

Deneuve and Grace Kelly is a pleasantly fresh-smelling product with a good, rich, covering consistency.

Sometimes this kind of foaming cleanser can leave the skin dry, but this was not the case here, although it is impossible to know if environmental pollutants are being removed along with the make-up, as claimed.

It gave our tester a reassuring feeling of wearing something that could protect her skin from the environment during year-round hikes with the dog through rural Somerset.

BIORÉ CHARCOAL OIL CONTROL SCRUB: £4.99, SUPERDRUG While most of the products we considered are busy keeping the effects of pollution out of your skin, this one concentrates on fighting already congested skin caused by it getting in through the pores.

Having a history of sun-damage to her skin, and following advice from a dermatologist that protection factor product should always be worn next to her skin, with anything else on top, the SPF 30 UV protection here is ideal.

A facial scrub is a great way to home in on specific problems – such as, in our tester's case, enlarged pores and greasy patches, and for a super-economical way of dealing with these issues it is hard to beat this scrub. You are recommended to use it all over your face, but she tended just to go for nose and chin, and felt that the charcoal in this was doing the trick.

Certainly, after using it for a couple of weeks, her chin felt less oily, and she likes to think that her pores are a bit less like craters. Apparently, the super-absorbent charcoal draws out dirt and toxins from deep down in the pores and sweeps up dead cells, and having seen the results it is certainly doing something. It couldn’t be easier to use: just massage a small amount into your face, and rinse off.

ANNE SÉMONIN OLIGO PROTECT CREAM SPF 30: £74, CULT BEAUTY This offering from a Paris-based brand founded 30 years ago by the distinguished facialist to such stars as Catherine

The cream incorporates sea-sourced minerals and trace elements including potassium, which helps maintain pH balance. It is also available as SPF 15, and can be worn on its own as a protective layer for non make-up wearers.

LA MER SPF50 UV PROTECTING FLUID, 50ML: £75, JOHN LEWIS Surprisingly for a product offering this level of protection, this seaweed-based marvel is both lightweight and easily absorbed, leaving no discernible residue on the skin.

It is a great base for makeup, which sits comfortably on top of its protective barrier. It is a hard-working product, designed to hydrate and restore your skin, while defending against UVA and UVB rays, and our tester certainly felt protected from anything the elements could throw at her.

This range is known for quality and innovation, and such a super-absorbent SPF50 is hard to find elsewhere. If really high protection is what you need. this would be a very good investment.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Squiggle Brows beauty trend takes over Instagram Just when you thought you had your brow game figured out, the Internet has gone ahead and changed the rules. "Squiggle brows" are the latest blogger-induced beauty trend to take over your Instagram feed and leave you wondering either why someone hadn't thought of this sooner, or just "Why?"

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ccording to PopSugar, the whimsical look — which the site accurately says will make you look like "a glam Dr. Seuss character" — was first created by vlogger Promise Tamang. She reportedly wanted to try squiggling her own brows after she saw someone rocking the style in a photoshopped picture on Instagram.

Since then, beauty bloggers and makeup artists have gone wild with their own interpretations of squiggle brows. Some

versions involve making waves with only the outer edge of the eyebrow while leaving the rest natural, while others serve up complementary lid decorations by way of brightly colored eyeshadows and rhinestones.

Sure, the look is a little bit . . . different than what we're used to, but as far as brow trends go, these funky things seem to be a bit more palatable than some of their predecessors (RIP, barbed wire brows).

Thankfully, there's no need to get out the tweezers and kiss your perfectly curated brow shape goodbye simply for the sake of a squiggle brow. According to PopSugar, Promise used PVA glue to "flatten her brow hair all in one direction," then hid squiggle-shaped portions of the hair with Make Up For Ever's Full Coverage Concealer.

She finished the look by using setting and pressed powder to hide any stragglers left behind. To create the actual squiggle, she used black gel eyeliner mixed with pomade. Don't tweeze or wax your brows into a squiggle-shape unless you want to spend years growing them back out . . . probably long after this fad has faded.

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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SKINCARE

Hillsborough Local Creates Organic Skincare Company Tanorici is a 100 percent organic facial oil that was formulated locally in Hillsborough. As a Phd Researcher and Engineer at Rutgers University, Hillsborough local and former Bedminster native, Tarek Ismaeil was always interested in skin care.

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aking his knowledge of products and ingredients on an atomic level into accounty, Ismaeil decided to dabble in creating his own skincare line.

He knew from his research at the university that castor oil inhibits inflammation but wasn’t an ingredient used in skincare products before. Ismaeil decided to try using the castor oil along with avocado oil to bring nutrients into the skin. Ismaeil played around with the ratio of both 100 percent organic castor oil and 100 percent

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organic avocado oil(hexane free, cold pressed and unrefined) before settling on the perfect ratio. “I did a prototype in my Hillsborough home and tested it on my relatives to treat puffiness under the eyes until I got the perfect consistency,” Ismaeil said.

The ratio is a secret but Ismaeil said his friends and relatives are very happy with the results. “What makes our product unique is the choice of the two oils in addition to the perfected ratio of the two

oils. Our main ingredient - Ricinoleic acid(a unique fatty acid) – exists only in the castor seed. We were fascinated by ‘Ricinoleic acid’ to the point that we used the first 4 letters in ricinoleic and placed them at the end of our company name, "Tanorici" ! Pronounced Tanaree-see,” Ismaeil said.

Tanorici first resolves the root cause of many skin issues inflammation and second, it provides essential vitamins/ antioxidants to nourish/moisturize your skin during and after the healing process, Ismaeil said.

A full detail on how Tanorici works is available for consumers on the website, www.tanoriciskincare.com

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

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SKINCOLOR

Your Skin Color Can Make Beauty Products More Expensive & Dangerous Institute School of Public Health (Milken Institute SPH) at the George Washington University told EurekAlert “Beauty product use is a critical but underappreciated source of reproductive harm and environmental injustice.”

Previous studies have noted that women of color, including African American, Latina, and Asian-American women are likely to spend more than the national average on makeup because marketing often encourages them to meet a European standard of beauty.

When it comes to seeking out a perfect shade of blush or the rosiest of red lipsticks, women don’t hesitate to spend. Studies show that during their lifetime, women will spend $15,000 or more on their favorite beauty products. But even if makeup makes you look good, it may not be good for your health. According to a new study, some makeup women are purchasing could be dangerous.

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n a study published in the American Journal of Obstetrics and Gynecology, experts are saying that women of color are at a higher risk than white women of having cosmetics-related chemicals show up in their bodies.

found that beauty and personal care products contain chemicals linked to endocrine, reproductive, or development toxicity, meaning they may disrupt hormone systems or mess with development in pregnancy.

These chemicals can cause big health problems even when used in small amounts. Researchers attribute the chemical build-up to use of products like skin-lightening face creams, which can contain hidden ingredients including topical steroids and the toxic metal mercury. Additional studies have also

“Pressure to meet Western standards of beauty means Black, Latina, and Asian American women are using more beauty products and thus are exposed to higher levels of chemicals known to be harmful to health,” Ami Zota, ScD, MS, an assistant professor of environmental and occupational health at Milken

The study authors point out that black women in particular can suffer more anxiety about having “bad hair” and feel a social pressure to straighten their hair or use relaxing products. Many of these hair care products are known to contain estrogen and can cause “premature reproductive development in young girls and possibly uterine tumors.”

Women between the ages of 18 and 34 are most at risk, the study authors report.

This age group is known to purchase the most beauty items per year, and if they aren’t careful, many of their products can cause chemical exposure during sensitive periods such as pregnancy.

Speak to your health-care provider about how to avoid possible exposure to chemicals through product use.

The study authors also suggest that health-care professionals should talk with their patients about the possible risk of exposure and that “health-care providers and researchers should call for health protective policies such as improved testing and disclosure.”

International Cosmetics News | September 2017

Connecting Buyers to Suppliers International Cosmetics News is the key to Cosmetic Buyers within the relevant sectors Superstores, Supermarkets, Department Stores, Wholesalers, Distributors, Cash and Carry, Cosmetics Producers, Private Label Hunters, Private Independent Stores, Chain Store Head Offices Buying Departments like Boots, Harvey Nichols, Debenhams, House of Fraser, Lulu Hypermarket, La Maison Guerlain Aritaum, CVS Caremark Corp, Walgreen Co etc.

ICN Magazine is affecting buying decision makers throughout the world. Europe, Asia, North America, Australia worldwide in Haircare, Skincare, Personal Care, Oral Care, Perfumery, Sunscreen, Make-up Products, Raw-Material, Packaging and the magazines puts your product forefront buyers. www.internationalcosmeticsnews.com

INTERNATIONAL International Cosmetics News Magazine would like to invite you to send your press release to our editorial department at : editorial@internationalcosmeticsnews.com

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Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - Hong Kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 -cosmasia-hk@ubm.com Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas: BolognaFiere S.p.a. - Bologna - Italy - international@bolognafiere.it for info: ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - international@cosmoprof.it | Marketing and Promotion: BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. - Milan - Italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 - info@cosmoprof.it

The largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances and wellbeing in the Middle East

8 – 10 May, 2018 Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, UAE

Where beauty resides and business flourishes

Book your stand now!

Tel: +971 4 389 45 04 beautyworld@uae.messefrankfurt.com www.beautyworldME.com