Wizz 2013/10-11 by Bookletia

OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2013

S P m for I o T fr ng

WIZZ MAGAZINE

WIZZ TOURS

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CONTENTS

COVER ILLUSTRATION BY JULIA MURRAY AND KINETIC MESH / PHOTO BY TIM E WHITE

Inside 64 WA R S AW We look at why Praga – Warsaw's edgy art district – is currently unstoppable

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CONTENTS

3 6 T E L AV I V The very best Israeli cuisine is found at restaurants located inside Tel Aviv’s markets

Editor Claire Martin

4 4 WIZZ TOURS

Art Director Callum Lewis

As Wizz Air unveils its online travel platform, we create 15 perfect holidays on our network

Picture Editor Regina Wolek Sub-editor Clive Morris

52 DONETSK

Production Karl Martins

This Ukrainian city is mad about sports! We look at why it’s such an athletic city

Publisher Brano Haar

58 MOSCOW Our writer uncovers the cool side of the Russian capital – using only social media

36 58

Advertising Sales Executives Joanna Kossowska Irina Bordea Anna Tereszkiewicz Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys Group Publishing Director Mark Duke Executive Creative Director Michael Keating Publishing Director Simon Leslie Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke

9 THE BUZZ 14 MY CIT Y: LONDON 16 VELIBOR TOPIC 19 TOBOGGANING 21 ODD CHOCS 22 VIET PRAGUE 24 MOLDOVAN WINE 26 SKI FACTS 28 KOŠICE CULTURE 31 HOTELS 32 SKI TRENDS 34 CIT Y BREAK SHOPPING

DOWNLOAD THE WIZZ AIR ANDROID APP! Scan this QR code and you will be taken to the new Wizz Air android app on Google Play, where you can check flight schedules, make bookings, add comfort and convenience services, and check-in for your next trip. You can still download the Wizz Air app on your iPhone, too.

WIZZ is published on behalf of Wizz Air by Ink. All correspondence and advertising enquiries should be addressed to: WIZZ , Ink, 141-143 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JE Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8777 Fax: +44 (0)20 7613 8776 www.ink-global.com Advertising +44 (0)20 7749 2333 Reproduction KFR Pre-Press Ltd All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in WIZZ are not necessarily those of Wizz Air or WIZZ. Wizz Air does not accept responsibility for advertising content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.

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WE L COM E ven though the peak summer travel season is long over, 2013 continues to be a busy year for Wizz Air. This autumn we will start operations to a number of exciting new destinations only recently announced. Europeans can’t get enough of Israel’s historical sites, café culture and bustling nightlife. From the end of October, you too can enjoy everything Tel Aviv has to offer from Cluj-Napoca, Katowice, and Vilnius (in addition to the services already operating from Budapest, Bucharest, and Warsaw). If you prefer to head east from Budapest, look no further than our newest destination, Moscow. Daily flights from Budapest to Moscow have been operating since the end of September so whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, visit wizzair.com to take advantage of our low prices today. Wizz Air’s growth will continue into 2014 with the arrival of a number of new aircraft added to our current fleet. Recently, we announced that our presence will grow with additional aircraft at Budapest, Skopje, Sofia, Vilnius and Warsaw. In addition, we announced the opening of a new base in Lviv, Ukraine as of the end of April next year. If you are flying from these cities, you will now enjoy increased frequencies

on our most popular routes and a handful of new destinations, like Lviv to Rome or Sofia to Mälmo, making it even easier to get to where you want to go with Wizz Air’s low fares. This October, we are thrilled to be one of the launch airlines that will open the brand new Dubai World Central International Airport. The airport, which is anticipated to be the world’s largest in just 10 years’ time, will welcome Wizz Air flights from Bucharest, Budapest, Kyiv and Sofia. As the cold winter months

settle in across Europe, why don't you head south to Dubai to see the Burj Khalifa, enjoy the incredible shopping, or spend a lazy day by the pool? Our low fares are too tempting to pass up! The Wizz Air iPhone app has been a huge success since its launch in early 2013. Tens of thousands of users across Europe and beyond have used the app to book flights, add convenience and comfort services and check their flight status. Android users have been eager for a compatible product and the wait is now over! Visit Google play and download the app today. It’s never too early to think about your plans for the upcoming holiday season. Whether you want to take a weekend trip to one of Europe’s incredible Christmas markets or share your special holiday with family abroad, Wizz Air will help you get there. Plus, our low everyday fares and great service will be sure to encourage your holiday spirit! From all of us here at Wizz Air, enjoy your flight! We look forward to seeing you onboard again soon.

József Váradi Chief Executive Officer, Wizz Air

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T H E S T O R I E S , O P E N I N G S A N D E V E N T S T H AT E V E R Y O N E â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S TA L K I N G A B O U T R I G H T N O W

WORDS BY ELEANOR ROSS

Whirling Dervishes A flurry of slippered feet and spinning white material â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it can only be the Mevlevi Whirling Dervishes in Istanbul. Dancing into a trance-like state as part of an ancient Sufi ritual, the Dervishes attempt to commune

with God through chants, prayers and spinning. See them dance at the famous Galata Mevlevi Lodge on Galipdede Caddesi, or for smaller shows head to the Grand Bazaar in the Sultanahmet district. galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov.tr

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THE BUZZ

England vs Poland The tension is mounting ahead of next year’s World Cup in Brazil, and on 15 October England and Poland are set to meet for their final 2014 World Cup qualifier at London's Wembley Stadium in front of a British crowd roaring with national (if optimistic) pride. But can Theo Walcott slip one past his Arsenal teammate Wojciech Szczesny? Or will Polish superstar Robert Lewandowski – rumoured to have turned down a move from Borussia Dortmund to Manchester United or Chelsea last summer – smash a couple of goals in the back of the net? fifa.com/worldcup

Tate update

Ridin g Hi gh The old-fashioned penny farthing is enjoying a resurgence in popularity, thanks to craftsmen like Zdenek Mesicek “We have two customers who ride their penny farthings daily – even in snow or frost – but I think that’s a bit extreme,” laughs Czech craftsman Zdenek Mesicek (pictured above). “Most of my customers have it on display at home.” Invented by British engineer James Starley in 1871, the two-wheelers became popular because, at the time, they were thought to be safer than other bicycle models. For decades they have been seen as an outmoded, ridiculous means of transport, but in recent years they have started to regain

their appeal. Zdenek has produced bikes with his father since he was a small boy, but he’s particularly interested in objects from a bygone era. “At the beginning, the penny farthings were just a hobby, but over time they became my work and my life.” He now produces around 40 penny farthings a year in his workshop in Kyjov, near Brno in the Czech Republic. You can now view his bikes at the M.A.D Gallery in Geneva, a space that specialises in championing kinetic art. Penny farthing aficionados, including Zdenek, say learning to ride one of these quirky looking bikes is surprisingly easy; it’s getting on and off that’s tricky to master! Order one from the M.A.D Gallery and try for yourself. mbandf.com

Ogle previously unseen works of art by some of Britain’s finest – Turner, Hogarth and Constable – in the newly revamped Tate Britain in London. The unveiling on 19 November will reveal 10 new galleries as well as an uncovering of intricate Victorian architectural elements. Penelope Curtis, director of Tate Britain, says: “The new Tate reasserts the original grandeur of the galleries.” The restaurant has also had a revamp and features a restored Rex Whistler mural. tate.org.uk

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THE BUZZ

T r ic k or T reat ? We’ve rounded up the top three spooky things to do this Halloween Day of the Dead, All Hallows’ Eve, Samhain – Halloween has a multitude of different names across Europe, and all deliver frights, tasty food and an excuse to wear outrageous costumes. Here’s our take on the best things to do on the most frightening time of the year...

● Bucharest: Scary spots

include the grave of Vlad III Dracula of Wallachia, said to have inspired the Bram Stoker legend, in Snagov, and Poienari Castle. Follow with a rip-roaring Halloween party at Hunyard’s Castle, voted one of the most haunted sites in Europe. ● Paris: For creepy fun for all

the family, head to Disneyland Paris. Its Halloween Party lasts

three weeks, starting 5 October. Say hello to the things that go bump in the night and enjoy the street parade on Main Street with Donald Duck’s nephews, Hewie, Dewey and Louie, while avoiding Captain Hook. ● Barcelona: Both the western Halloween tradition of truco o trato (trick or treating) and the Mexican tradition of Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) on

1 November get equal space in Barcelona. This means you can go out and have a rip-roaringly good time with your friends on All Hallows’ Eve, while paying respects to the recently deceased over a slap-up family meal the next day. The city’s party reputation is in full force – weird out at The Monster’s Ball at Shoko Club, or at the Opium Mar club’s Dream Night Halloween.

IF YOU GO DOWN TO THE WOODS TODAY... Autumn is a popular time to go bear-spotting in Romania. But Colin Shaw of Roving Romania advises that, although the country is home to at least 5,000 brown bears, “bear-watching is less like a safari and more about animal tracking”. Romanian bears are highly secretive and tend to live

in craggy, hard-to-reach mountain areas – Shaw warns that visitors coming solely for a glimpse of one of these magnificent creatures may be disappointed. “In the last months before they go into hibernation, the forests around Zarnesti (near Bucharest) are the best place to catch sight of

a massive paw print or a tuft of hair on a bush.” Although sightings are rare, excursions into the wilderness are lead by knowledgeable guides and the trip into Romania’s weathered and stony Carpathian mountains is worth the hike itself. roving-romania.co.uk

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THE BUZZ

Palinka and Sausage Fest The Hungarians have a saying: little talk and long sausage will do you good. Now, we don’t know exactly what it means, but it’s safe to assume that they like their sausages. They also love pálinka – a fruit brandy – and, unusually, they like to enjoy them together. The best pálinkas are celebrated at this year’s Pálinka and Sausage Festival, held in Budapest’s Buda Castle. Sample the peppery páprikafilled juicy sausages with a shot of this fruity spirit and you’ll agree that they go together like cheese and crackers. From 3 to 6 October, palinkaeskolbasz.hu

Se rb ian S t yle See Serbia’s up-and-coming designers at Belgrade’s Fashion Week this autumn “Fashion in Serbia is very creative. Young designers in particular want to make a statement and break some rules,” says Ivana Djurišić, head of arts for the British Council Serbia. And she should know: Ivana kicked off the proceedings for the 33rd Belgrade Fashion Week in March and is heavily involved in the Serbian fashion scene. She and the British Council helped up-and-coming Serbian designers to showcase their designs at the British Council International Fashion Showcase in London earlier this year, and they’ve also had a hand in organising the next Fashion

Week, held in Belgrade, from 25 October to 5 November. So, who should we keep a look out for on the catwalk? “I personally like Ivana Pilja, George Styler and Ana Ljubinković [pictured above], and all are starting to get international recognition,” says Ivana. And it’s not just on the catwalk that Belgrade’s fashion scene is taking off. “I’m in favour of designers who aren’t at fashion week but are working hard in small studios and showing their clothes on the streets.” Belgrade Fashion Week hosts about 30 shows at venues including Belexpocentar and Club Parobrod, both in Stari Grad. Join the throng and snag quirky one-offs from those designers who sell backstage. belgradefashionweek.com

Stockholm Film Fest Channel a vintage film vibe as Stockholm goes art-house crazy at its annual film festival. As well as a reliable offering of kooky Nordic productions, fans of Swedish crime dramas will be thrilled to see knitwear and gritty rural realism galore. Artists, directors and actors will be on hand throughout the week offering master classes, presentations and talks to all interested persons. From 6 to 17 November, stockholmfilmfestival.se

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PEOPLE

This Is My Cit y: London

riginally from Slovakia, Anita Balazova has lived and worked in London for two years. A part-time waitress, away from the restaurant she is a passionate photographer who finds happiness walking around the city and capturing the lives of its inhabitants on film. With a string of successful exhibitions in Slovakia behind her, Anita is about to hang up her waitressing apron and start studying for an MA in photojournalism in London. You can view more of her pictures on her personal website. anitabalazova.wix.com/photograph

Some people think London is a lonely city, but I disagree. It is a place of community, of family and of life. A lot of people come from Eastern Europe expecting London to make their dreams come true, but find they miss their families. London is easier to handle with friends. When I first arrived, I was so homesick that I spent the first three months just walking around the capital and taking pictures. I walked from Manor House in north London to the west, east and south and it made me relax into the city. It made me happy, and I started to understand it more.

Brixton is the happiest part of London. I am drawn to strong communities, and there is no shortage of them in London! Brixtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s streets are full of art: everywhere there are greens and yellows because of its Jamacian heritage. The first time I came to Brixton, I saw a man carrying a boom box on his shoulder, singing along and dancing. That would never have happened in Slovakia. He just didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t care! London is such a colourful place, both in terms of ethnicity and everyday life. Once I experienced the Holi Festival of

INTERVIEW BY ELEANOR ROSS

Photographer Anita Balazova on making the switch from Slovakia to the British capital

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Colours [a Hindi festival in which people paint themselves and throw colourful powder in the air], held in August at Battersea Power Station, I knew I had to start playing with colour. In Slovakia, I used to shoot my pictures in black and white but London gave me a different point of view. The city could never be described as just one colour; for me, it’s like a rainbow. I love to shop in London’s markets. Brixton Market feels like a different country: Grandparents holding hands push their trolleys around the stalls, picking fresh fish, paw paws and yams to take home to cook. Borough Market is also great. Every sense is heightened: the clatter of the train going overhead, the vibrant colours of the fresh vegetables, the smell of sweet strawberries and the taste of charred burgers cooked under the railway arches. As a photographer I love to watch people and document their daily activities. The Southbank Centre is great for this. It’s a hidden gem. There are some great restaurants, street artists, performers. Upstairs there’s free Wi-Fi, quiet study spots and couches, with a view millions couldn’t buy.

ABOVE: A RAINBOW EXPLOSION AT THE HOLI FESTIVAL IN BATTERSEA. TOP RIGHT: THE SOUTHBANK IS “LONDON’S HIDDEN GEM”. MIDDLE RIGHT: STRATFORD, IN EAST LONDON. BOTTOM RIGHT: ANITA SAYS BRIXTON IS THE HAPPIEST PLACE IN LONDON.

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elibor Topic was all set to be killed off in Ridley Scott's 2010 action adventure Robin Hood when the Bosnian star received an unexpected stay of execution. “I was training for a fight scene with Russell Crowe and the sword master said: ‘And at this point you die – or maybe not,’” the actor recalls with a chuckle. “I later found out that Ridley told the writers he wanted me to be in the film longer and that they should write more stuff for my character.” Three years down the line, Topic has just finished his third film with Scott, joining a star-studded cast made up of Brad Pitt, Cameron Diaz, Michael Fassbender, Penélope Cruz and Javier Bardem in crime drama The Counsellor. It’s not difficult to understand why the Bosnian gets the call whenever the legendary director needs an imposing presence on screen. Standing 6ft 4in tall, he certainly has the physical stature to intimidate, but it’s about more than looking mean. Spend some time with Topic and you realise he is a straight talker – a man whose aversion to phoniness, along with a no-nonsense approach to acting, make him easy to work with. “Bosnian people are always very straightforward,” he says. “If they love you, they love you, and if they don’t, they don’t. I think Ridley appreciates this approach. And as actor, I think being Bosnian gives you a certain presence, confidence, but most of all respect for the people you work with.” Topic’s love for his craft is amplified by the fact that it acted as an escape during the Bosnian War in the 1990s. Born in Mostar, the actor had just finished studying in Sarajevo when the conflict broke out, leaving him cut off from his parents. “It was about surviving and living day to day, but we also staged beautiful plays during the war,” he recalls. “Eventually, with the help of the UN, we took these productions overseas. As the theatre group drove to the airport they started shooting at us. I was on the last plane to leave Sarajevo for six months.”

Bosnia’s On-screen Tough Guy Actor Velibor Topic on his homeland and how he impressed director Ridley Scott

“BEING BOSNIAN GIVES YOU A CERTAIN PRESENCE AND CONFIDENCE” While Topic was desperate to return to Bosnia after the tour, his parents convinced him to instead head for London where his brother lived. He soon found his feet in the capital, got an agent and landed an eye-catching role opposite Helen Mirren in the final TV series of Prime Suspect.

“Helen Mirren told me: ‘Velibor you are a demanding actor,’” he says with a big smile. “I took that as a great compliment.” After his successful stint in Prime Suspect, Topic met with Ridley Scott, who was then casting his Crusades epic Kingdom of Heaven. “I was very nervous when I first met Ridley at his offices,” Topic says. “I was told by his people not to talk about his other movies or smoke, because he had quit. I sat down and we talked about everything, including his movies and smoking. I think we understood each other from the start.”

WORDS BY PIERRE DE VILLIERS

PEOPLE

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Since Kingdom of Heaven, Topic has alternated between films and TV, and will soon be seen in the series Da Vinci’s Demons, which depicts the Renaissance genius’ early years in Florence. While he continues to play several nationalities, the actor has steadfastly refused to phase out his Bosnian accent. “Maybe I could have done more stuff if I lost my accent, but for me it’s like hanging on to a bit of home,” he says. “I try to bring a little bit of my country to all the roles that I play.” The Counsellor is on general release this November

LEFT: IT’S ABOUT MORE THAN JUST LOOKING MEAN FOR STRAIGHTTALKING TOPIC (ALTHOUGH HE DOES DO MEAN RATHER WELL). ABOVE: TOPIC’S HOLLYWOOD CALLING CARD, KINGDOM OF HEAVEN

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TOPIC’S TIPS FOR BOSNIA “Bosnia-Herzegovina is a place with warm, welcoming people, beautiful sights, great food. Make sure you try ćevapi; small, tasty kebabs served with warm bread. Bosnians love desserts, so you must try some cakes, the baklava here is especially delicious, because of Bosnia's strong Turkish heritage. To drink, you should try a strong fruit liquor, rakia, our national drink. And I recommend people go to my home town, Mostar. Every summer there is a diving competition from the famous Old Bridge, which dates back to the 16th century.”

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It’s All Downhill From Here

PEOPLE

WORDS BY MATT GLASBY / ILLUSTRATION BY CHARLOTTE TROUNCE

Our man in the French Alps heads to Val Thorens to experience tobogganing

It’s not a competition,” warn my female pals as we prepare to tackle Val Thorens’ 6km-long toboggan run. This is ‘loser speak’ – they’re all lighter than me, so gravity, I trust, will ensure victory. Grabbing our sleds, helmets – and, bizarrely, hair nets – at the bottom of the gondola, we whizz 3,000m up to the starting line where we join skiers, in pole position, and tobogganers of all ages. At €13 for a 45-minute ride, it’s great fun for all the family. Then we’re off. Me first, the ladies behind. The sled has two brakes, which don’t so much slow your descent as dictate which side you crash. In fact, the only way to go straight is to put equal amounts of pressure on both at exactly the same time. This is nigh-on impossible, and the course has other ideas anyway, so I wipeout immediately. It’s bracing and bruising, like stirring a Slush Puppie with your face.

I try going headfirst, but it’s no easier. As you whoosh downhill, scissoring left and right, you feel every lump and bump, even if you can’t see them. You can also do this at night, and, frankly, with all the snow in my face, I may as well be. The second time I wipeout, I can see the girls behind me, catching up by crashing less. I fling myself downhill again, feet first this time, navigating flat bits, lethal bits, bits that cross the piste... then I’m up and over the sides of the run and in a snowdrift. I race back to my sled, scared of being hit from behind or, worse, overtaken by a girl. Yet this happens – once, twice, three times – and soon I’m alone. All the same, maybe the run’s flatter, or I’ve got better at steering, but I’m happily speeding along, having a brilliant time. At the bottom, my laughing companions, make ‘loser’ signs at me, but I just want another go. At least it’s not a competition. Fly to Geneva; valthorens.com

RIDE A TOBOGGAN ● Grindelwald, Switzerland The nail-biting 15km Big Pintenfritz from Faulhorn via Bussalp to Grindelwald is the longest in the Europe. Fly to Geneva; grindelwald.ch ● Wildkogel, Austria Toboggan at night – at 14km this is the world’s longest floodlit run and it’s open until 10pm. Fly to Memmingen/Munich West; wildkogel-arena.at ● Les Arcs, France Rodéo Park lives up to its name with a wild 3,000m run and exhilarating 400m descent. Fly to Grenoble; lesarcs.com

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Is This Europe Europe’ss Oddest Chocolat ier? lack Pudding is a bit like Marmite: you love it or you hate it. Paul A. Young adores it. “I’ve been using black pudding in my chocolates for years,” he says. “I started to experiment with my favourite from Ginger Pig and now we have three varieties of black pudding truffle.” Wait, what – black pudding chocolate truffle? He can’t be serious. “The flavours work together really well,” he enthuses, “but only if you use very high quality black pudding, not the cheap supermarket stuff.” Young originally trained as a chef and worked as head pâtissier under Marco Pierre White. “My career sort of morphed into chocolate,” he says. He opened his first shop in north London, in 2006, with two more following in Soho and the City of London. He is almost as obsessive about crafting his confectionary by hand as he is about his ambitious and daring flavours. “I like to use ingredients people are familiar with, but in combinations they might not be familiar with,” he says. Other quirky combinations include tea and biscuit, Szechuan pepper and lemongrass as well as the black pudding, rye whiskey and sourdough truffle. “You should be able to taste everything in the truffle plus the chocolate, of course,” Young says. “The black pudding is sweet, spicy and delicate, the single malt whisky is warming and smooth and the sourdough bread is crunchy and tangy with texture.” What next for the Heston Blumenthal of chocolate? Chewing gum ganache? Pickled herring pralines? “The day we run out of flavours is the day we will stop,” he smiles. paulayoung.co.uk

FOOD

Black pudding truffle? London’s Paul A. Young has some bizarre ideas about flavour

3 OF THE BEST: WEIRD CHOC S

WORDS BY HANNAH THOMPSON

It’s not just Paul A. Young who comes up with some quirky chocolate combinations. Try one of these – if you dare ● Havana Tobacco, Fly to Brussels Self-proclaimed shock-o-latier Dominique Persoone gives Young a run for his money. de The kookiest item? The ‘Havana’, made with cigar leaves marinated inn olate rum and cognac. The Chocolate Line, Simon Stevinplein 19, Bruges, thechocolateline.be

● Camel’s Milk, Fly to Dubai With three times the Vitamin C and half the fat of cow’s milk you could argue camel’s milk chocolate is a superfood. With a slightly malty taste, camel’s milk is a delicacy in the Middle East. Umm Nahad, Al Ain Road Exit 26, Dubai, al-nassma.com ● Cheese and Onion Crisps, Fly to Cork Earlier this year, Irish crisp brand Tayto unveiled a cheese-and-onion-crisp flavoured chocolate bar. Reviews were mixed, but all 100,000 bars sold out quickly. taytocrisps.ie

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FOOD

rague has long been home to a vibrant Vietnamese community. Invited over as migrant workers during the mid-20th century when the Czech Republic (then Czechoslovakia) was under Communist rule, today they make up the largest immigrant community in the country. But, incredibly, for years the only chance of a decent bowl of pho, that world-famous noodle soup, was at Prague’s vast Asian market, Sapa, on the outskirts of the city. Thankfully now you don’t have to trek too far for a decent meal from the Far East, as Vietnamese locals have begun opening restaurants serving authentic dishes from their home country in Prague’s city centre. At the vanguard of this foodie revolution is Viet Food Friends (vietfoodfriends.cz), a food blog launched by a pair of Vietnamese students, Thuy Duong Trinh and Mai Huong Nguyen. For them, the appeal of their country’s cuisine, made up of exotic salads, spring rolls and noodle soups, in a nation traditionally accustomed to stodgy fare like ghoulash and dumplings, is obvious. “Most people appreciate that it’s light, healthy, colourful and full of fresh herbs,” says Thuy. Their blog has been a huge success; they’ve even started running cookery classes to share their culinary know-how with curious locals. “The increased interest in Vietnamese food has been greatly assisted by social media and blogs,” she says. “People can share their positive experiences and that enthusiasm quickly spreads.” One of the new kids on the block recommended by the blogging duo is restaurant Madame Lyn (Šafaříkova 319/18). “Thai is too spicy for many people and Chinese can be rather greasy,” says owner Minh Ha. The challenging Giga Pho is a gigantic bowl of broth consisting of a kilo of beef, a kilo of noodles and 3½ litres of stock. Slurp your way through the lot and it’s yours for free; otherwise it will set you back 500 koruna (€19). Only two have ordered the colossal soup so far, but both made it to the bottom of the bowl. Family-run Pho Vietnam Tuan & Lan began life as a pocket-sized suburban takeaway on Slavíkova in 2011. Once the queues began stretching out the door, the couple knew it

What Are You Wait ing Pho? We talk to the chefs and food bloggers behind Prague’s Vietnamese food craze

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WORDS BY LISETTE ALLEN / PHOTO BY STOCKFOOD, LEHMANN, KOOPS

LEFT: A LIGHT PRAWN AND NOODLE VIETNAMESE DISH. ABOVE: VIET FOOD BLOGGERS THUY DUONG TRINH (LEFT) AND MAI HUONG NGUYEN (RIGHT).

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was time to expand. Their second location on central Anglická has proved just as popular thanks to the speedy service, ample seating and generous portions. Despite the rising popularity of Viet cuisine, not everyone’s sure how to eat it: “One group who ordered bún cha – grilled pork with rice noodles – thought the bowl of dipping sauce was for washing their hands!” says owner Lan with a smile. With its sleek interior and hip disco soundtrack, Neb.o (Perlová 10) certainly wins the prize for funkiest new arrival. The dishes are beautifully presented, too: the soups, which come in small or large portions, are served with chill, garlic and lime in exquisite tiny ramekins. Manager Hana Nyen encourages diners to get out of their pho comfort zone and try vit cari do – curried duck – or udon, a prawn and seaweed noodle broth topped off with a poached egg. While Prague’s central Vietnamese joints are now plentiful, a trip to Sapa Market is still worth the journey. Here renowned Asian chef Shahaf Shabtay leads culinary tours around Prague’s Little Hanoi where you learn how to cook up exotic ingredients such as banana stems and galangal, sample mouth-watering

treats like homemade bánh cuon – steamed rice rolls dipped in a delicious green tea sauce – and pamper yourself with a manicure or massage. Tours cost 750 koruna (€29); book at en-prague. sasazu.com/enjoy/sapa-trip

THUY’S TOP 3 VIET DISHES ● Cá kho with du’a chua: Slowly braised fish accompanied by pickled mustard greens is Viet Food Friends blogger Thuy’s favourite dish: “It’s real comfort food,” she says. ● Bún cá: This flavoursome fish soup is made with the same fine rice noodles as bún cha, but includes the dipping sauce as part of the light, fragrant broth instead of serving it on the side. ● Cà tím xào tôm thit: Roasted aubergine with minced beef and tiger prawns is one of the mouth-watering new options on the menu at popular restaurant, Pho Vietnam Tuan & Lan.

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FOOD

Moldova's Wines Uncorked Young guns are redefining the country's centuries-old winemaking tradition

One such modern vineyard setting the standard is Chateau Vartely (vartely.md), set into the side of a limestone slope in historic Orhei, some 60km north of Chişina˘u. It has a grand restaurant and tasting rooms that stock grape varieties from the local vineyard – Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, sweet Muscat and more. “Wine is a badge of pride and a symbol of Moldovan hospitality,” says Arcadie Foşnea, the master winemaker. “Today, through strict quality control standards and the crafting of more delicate, European-style wines, we are now showing customers how to appreciate premium quality Moldovan wines.” Quality over quantity is the approach of these young, ambitious wine producers and, since the recent legalisation

“WINE IS A BADGE OF PRIDE AND A SYMBOL OF MOLDOVAN HOSPITALIT Y ” regarding small-volume wine production, a number have banded together to create the Moldovan Small Wine Producers Association to promote their own interests, educate consumers and attract investment. Members are comprised of Equinox, Mezalimpe, Pelican Negru, Vinaria Nobila and Et Cetera. For Alexandru Luchianov, of the brotherly duo behind Et Cetera (etcetera.md) in the southern Stefan Voda region, customers are increasingly looking for “a connection”

WORDS BY ANNA J. KUTOR

oldova may be one of the smaller and less visited countries in Europe, but when it comes to wine, it has a ‘go-big or go-home’ attitude. This sun-kissed nation, wedged between Ukraine and Romania, is where viniculture is thought to have originated some 5,000 years ago. Since then, winemaking has become an expression of national identity, and the country’s abundant sunshine, rainfall and forest soil make it ideal for cultivating grapes. Though Moldovian vineyards are centuries-old – stalwarts include Purcari (purcari.md), Cricova (cricova.md) and Milestii Mici (milestii-mici.md) – it’s thanks to a new crop of dynamic young winemakers that Moldova is now making a name for itself in the hard-to-please world of wine.

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and “a sense of place in the glass”. Et Cetera has achieved this by recrafting native varietals (a wine made from a single named grape variety) such as Feteasca˘ Neagra˘ (which translates as ‘Black Maiden’) and Rara Neagra˘ (‘Loose Black Grape’). It also established a small restaurant on the estate serving local food and a wine shop where visitors can soak up the atmosphere while sampling a glass. Fellow member Equinox planted its first vineyard in 2002, releasing its first wine in 2006. “Our aim is to produce quality wines with personality,” says producer Constantin Stratan. Around 8,000 bottles go out each year, mostly to Chişina˘u’s bars and restaurants. This autumn, Moldovan National Wine Day (moldovawineday.md), runs on the weekend of the 5 and 6 October, marking the end of the harvest season. If you’re flying in too late to enjoy it, head straight to Carpe Diem (wineshop. md), a newly opened wine bar in the centre of Chişina˘u. A compact wooden counter, wall racks packed with over 160 different domestic and international wines and a 12-seater table all neatly squeeze inside the intimate space, which hosts regular wine tastings, courses and wine-paired dinners. The well-informed owners take the guesswork – but not the fun – out of grape explorations by offering unusual wines from the less-trodden wine regions of Moldova.

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OPPOSITE PAGE: SAMPLE MOLDOVAN WINES AT CARPE DIEM BAR IN CHISINAU. ABOVE: A GLASS OF ONE OF CHATEAU VARTELY'S MORE EUROPEANSTYLE WINES.

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PL ACES

Hit t ing The Slopes Ahead of the winter season, we’ve rounded up our top 10 ski facts – on and off piste

On top of the world: At 2300m, Val Thorens, France, is the highest resort in Europe.

Tough run: La Saren Sarenne, a black run in the French resort of Alpe d d’Huez, is 16km long.

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Party on the piste: Horizon Festival, in Bankso, Bulgaria, offers more than 30 parties over six days.

Night skiing: Bulgarian resort Borovets has floodlit slopes for schussing in the dark, open 5-10pm.

Great G lengths: The world’s longest skis measured 555m, worn wor by 170 people in Arendal, Norway in 2011.

High jump: jump The largest purpose-built ski jumping hill Vik in Vikersundbakken, Norway, is 225m tall.

That’s steep: Harakiri piste in the Austrian resort of Mayrhofen has a scary 78% gradient.

Cycling on snow: Éric Barone reached 222 km/h on his bike, on piste, in Les Arcs, France, in 2000.

Snow sure: A snow cannon uses 285,000 litres of water to create 6in-deep snow over 61x61m!

GETTY

Earn the burn: It takes an hour’s skiing to work off that favourite après ski cocktail, a Jägerbomb (209 calories).

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PL ACES

here was never any doubt that Košice would be Slovakia’s choice for 2013 European Capital of Culture (ECoC). This jewel of the East has long been the country’s artistic focal point, a melting pot of cultural influences from across central Europe. Now, thanks to the ECoC, crumbling swimming pools, former army barracks and disused heat exchanger stations have all been transformed into galleries and performance spaces, and the city is attracting a diverse range of artists from across the world. kosice2013.sk

Košice: Capital of Cult ure As Košice’s year in the limelight draws to a close, we round up the final events

1. KOŠICE MODERNISM EXHIBITION 17-30 November, East Slovakia Gallery, East Slovakia Museum; State Scientific Library. Modernism swept the art world in the early 20th century and this exhibition celebrates the outstanding work that emerged from Košice at that time. Held at three venues, the show will feature pieces by some of the region’s best-loved modernists, including Koloman Sokol, who died 10 years ago, aged 100, and is hailed as the founder of modern Slovak graphic art.

3. CLOSING CEREMONY 13 December, City Centre The Košice 2013 project will leave its mark on the city, which is expected to remain a cultural hub long into the future. But to mark the official end of its ECoC residency, a lavish closing ceremony, coordinated with Marseilles, this year’s other European City of Culture, is scheduled for the city centre, with the line-up a closely guarded secret. Jamiroquai closed the opening ceremony in January; but who can match Jay Kay?

4. KOŠICE FOLKLORE DAYS 15-24 November, Košice State Theatre Prepare for a feast of singing, dancing and music, eastern Slovak-style, as the natives of Košice present their own traditional cultural expression. A series of Folklore Days culminates in a gala performance at the State Theatre, a perfect chance to sample the rich pastoral traditions and beautiful national costumes. sdke.sk

5. QUASARS ENSEMBLE 18-22 October, St Michael’s Chapel After setting up residence in Košice for much of the year, the Quasars Ensemble of chamber musicians will play five shows in gothic St Michael Chapel, in the shadow of Košice’s magnificent cathedral. The shows will combine traditional and contemporary classical music with innovative new pieces from visiting composers.

ILLUSTRATION BY OWEN GATELY

2. JAZZ FOR SALE 2, 9, 16 November, Historic Town Hall Over three consecutive Saturdays, Košice’s Historic Town Hall will take after the top jazz clubs in Europe and America for the arrival of the Jazz FOR SAle festival. A tremendous line-up of celebrated jazz virtuosos and ensembles from central Europe will freeform their way around pianos, violins, saxophones and a selection of world music instruments. The unexpected is to be very much expected.

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FILLER AD

6. BRITISH EXPRESS 14-26 November, Kunsthalle Until it was rescued by the ECoC project, the Kunsthalle was a dilapidated former swimming pool. Now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been remade into an arts venue. In November it will host British Express, a showcase of British contemporary art post 1960s pop art, which reflects artâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s place in the consumer-led commercial environment.

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The Hotel Hot List ● Kempinski Baltschug, Moscow When you’ve a reputation as one of Moscow’s premium five-star hotels, attracting such luminaries as Paul McCartney and David Bowie, you might feel tempted to rest on your laurels. Especially with a prime location on the banks of the Moskva River, facing the Kremlin and Red Square. But not at the Kempinski Baltschug. Despite its grand, palatial exterior, which dates back to 1898, the hotel is a mere 21 years old and has plenty of modern touches amid its Italian marble floors and Murano glass chandeliers. All the rooms have been recently treated to a revamp, and should you choose to dine in the hotel’s Baltschug Grill (a must for its signature beef stroganoff alone), you’ll be presented with a wine list on an iPad. The hotel’s design suites are not merely fit for royalty, but styled by British royalty, with Viscount David Linley (nephew of Queen Elizabeth) and Princess Michael of Kent taking their turns as interior designers. Views of St Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin are abundant throughout the hotel, from the top-floor library (which might arguably have a better view than Putin’s Kremlin office) to breakfast in the Baltshug Grill, where fresh-to-order eggs, Russian caviar and Champagne are on hand to help kickstart your day. You can even taken part in Saturday’s ‘Yoga with Kremlin View’ classes in the fitness centre. Book at wizzair.com

PL ACES

Book the most comfortable hotels across the Wizz Air network through wizzair.com

3 OF THE BEST: RIVER VIEWS ● Lánchíd 19, Budapest With its enviable location in Buda, just a short stroll from the Chain Bridge, awardwinning design hotel Lánchíd 19 ( pictured right) has incredible views across to Pest, back to the bridge and of the Danube. Book at wizzair.com ● Hotel InterContinental, Prague Located in the Jewish Quarter, right on trendy shopping street Par˘iz˘ská, the InterContinental is a smart choice. For the best panoramas of

the city, and the Vltava River, head to the Zlatá Praha gourmet restaurant on the top floor. Book at wizzair.com ● The Gritti Palace, Venice For any trip to Venice, a hotel room with a view of the Grand Canal is a must. The luxurious, recently renovated Gritti Palace, commissioned in 1525 as an official residence of the Doge of Venice, is a sound choice, located right at the water’s edge. Book at wizzair.com

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PL ACES

Where To Ski Hard and Part y Harder

NIGHT RIDER Fly to Grenoble For those who find the challenge of riding snow during daylight not quite gruelling enough, head to Les Deux Alpes on 25 January for the Night Snow Trail by Lafuma. Starting at an altitude of 2,200m, you can choose between a tough 10km or stamina-busting 18km trail with both – thankfully – mainly going downhill. If you fancy putting your legs and lungs to the test, entry is just €20 and includes a post-race dinner. But if you’d rather take it easy, you can always simply enjoy the spectacle with a vin chaud. lesdeuxalpes.com

SKI LIFT OFF! Fly to Milan The opening of a new six-seater chairlift joins together the resorts of Lenzerheide and Arosa in the Graubünden region of west Switzerland, creating one huge ski area with 225km of pistes, accessed by one pass. Enjoyment is enhanced by a futurist bit of tech, a brand-new Ski Line system (skiline.cc). It tracks all the stats from your ski, which you can display on an altitude diagram. You can even film yourself on the entire run, thanks to the SkiMovie installation, and later download and share pictures and videos via its smartphone app. arosalenzerheide.ch

OLYMPIC WARM-UP Fly to Memmingen West/Munich To get ski fans in the mood for the 2014 Sochi Winter Olympics, the Federation International du Ski (FIS) is hosting a special ski event at the Munich Olympic Park on 1 January. The parallel slalom race event will mix first-class skiing with a light show and music to create a fantastic winter spectacle. If that inspires you to get involved, catch the train to the nearby resort of Garmisch Partenkirchen and attempt their legendary Kandahar Abfahrt Garmisch downhill piste (with an altitude drop of 940m)… if you dare! gapa.de

WORDS BY ED ANDREWS

Ski apps, night trails, festivals and raves – what’s new on the slopes this season

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LEFT: FREESTYLE WITH FLAIR AT SNOWBOXX, ANDORRA. ABOVE: ‘IBIZA ON ICE’ – SNOWBOXX LETS RIP. RIGHT: HORIZONS IN BULGARIA HAS MORE THAN 30 PARTIES IN ONE WEEK.

IN THE MOUNTAINS, SNOW AND PARTIES GO TOGETHER LIKE BREAD AND FONDUE PARTY ON THE PISTE Fly to Barcelona With the tag line ‘Ibiza on Ice’, the new Snowboxx festival is bringing clubland to the Pyrenées, from 23-30 March. The excitement takes place in the Andorran resorts of Arinsal and La Massana, and at over 2,000m altitude, it boasts the highest ever festival main stages on the giant sun deck at the Panoramix bar. There will be parties in igloos, tax-free drinks, torch-lit freestyle skiing displays and mogul clinics for you to brush up on your skiing technique. snowboxx.com

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BROADEN YOUR HORIZONS Fly to Sofia In the mountains, snow and parties go together like bread and fondue, and one of the freshest gatherings on the block is Horizon Festival, 8-14 March, hitting the Bulgarian resort of Bansko, at the foot of the Pirin mountains. This underground electronic dance music festival ar, but it’s already firmly only started this year, established on the winter festival scene. Next year’s instalment boasts more than 30 parties, from chilled, piste-side, BBQ-fuelled sessions with full-onn après ski raves. DJs already confirmed for ebottom, Roy 2014 include Applebottom, dge. If you Davis Jnr and dBridge. want a break from hedonism, don’t forget you cann explore the resort’s 75km of tree-lined ed pistes and untracked backcountry. horizonfestival.net

TICKET TO RIDE Fly to Grenoble The well-heeled resort of Courchevel and the surrounding ski area Les Trois Vallées – including Val Thorens and Méribel – in France may be at the pricier end of the spectrum, but this season some new lift rates are being introduced to make things slightly easier on your wallet. The new Duo Pass gives you and a riding buddy a hefty discount whe when you book a six-day pass tog together. Considering Les Trois Vallé Vallées has more than 600km of p pistes to ski on, that’s incre incredible value for money. It’s all part of a larger ong ongoing €140m upgrade of chairlifts and snowmaking machinery, d due to be completed by 2019. Thi This should mean less time queuing and sitting, and more tim time shredding. les3vallees.com

18/09/2013 10:35

SHOPPING

What to Take on Your Cit y Break Make sure you pack these essentials for your next weekend away

FIRELIGHT SUITCASE This compact, 55cm-tall spinner case is strong, light and spacious. (€280, samsonite.co.uk)

BAMBOO T-SHIRT A super-soft basic T-shirt for layering up or cooling down. rapanuiclothing.com) (€14, rapa

DEBASER PLIMSOLL Lightweight footwear that takes the pressure off air travel. (€47, pointerfootwear.com)

PHOTOS BY PIXELEYES

CITY Y MAP An illustrated map ccan make exploring a city fun. (€4.75, herblester.com)

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INSTANT PRINT CAMERA z2300 Polaroid has gone digital, but you can still get instant pics. (€200, polaroid.co.uk)

PLATTAN HEADPHONES These bright headphones offer style with brilliant sound. (€60, urbanears.com)

CITY BLOCK CK SHEE SHEER SPF25 A lightweight moisturiser to keep your skin protected. (€20, clinique.co.uk)

UR BLOCK NOTE E BO COLOUR NOTEBOOK Record your favourite holiday moments in this notebook. (€6.50, presentandcorrect.com)

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A TASTE OF TEL

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AVIV

Where should you go for the best food in this cosmopolitan city? Head to Tel Avivâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colourful markets and dine at the restaurants inside them. Words by Anthea Gerrie / Photography by Nitzan Hafner

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T E L AV I V

t’s no surprise that Tel Aviv has evolved into a great food destination. This modern Middle Eastern city located on the Mediterranean shoreline is founded on immigration, and those immigrants have brought with them culinary influences from around the world. At the same time, well-travelled Israelis are keen to re-experience at home the exotic ingredients and dishes they sampled abroad. And nowhere is this proliferation of global foodstuffs and cuisines more in evidence than at Tel Aviv’s vibrant food markets. “I consider the markets to be the heartbeat of the city,” says Inbal Baum of Delicious Israel (deliciousisrael.com), whose tours introduce visitors to the best market stalls, restaurants and food shops in Tel Aviv. “Walking by and seeing the fruits, spices, nuts and produces is wonderful for stimulating the senses, but delve a little deeper and you’ll discover that each of the markets has their own unique story to tell, too.” Baum grew up with a first-hand understanding of the importance of shopping at the sharp end, rather than a supermarket, thanks to her Polish grandmother. “At 91, although she can barely walk, she still travels by two buses all the way from the suburbs to get by carp from the market to make gefilte fish.” The market to which Baum’s grandmother goes is Shuk HaCarmel, a gigantic openair bazaar in the centre of Tel Aviv, founded in the 1920s by Russian immigrants. It’s a place where you can find everything from souvenirs to cigarettes, jewellery to leather goods, books and cosmetics. But it’s the food that makes HaCarmel such a draw –

HERE: THE ONE THAT DIDN’T GET AWAY IN ÅLESUND, NORWAY’S FISHING CAPITAL. ABOVE: OSLO'S OPERA HOUSE. RIGHT: SEE FANTASTIC FJORDS FROM THE HURTIGRUTEN FERRY.

“Seeing the produce is wonderful for the senses, but delve a little deeper and you’ll discover that each market its own story" stalls of exotic spices in eye-popping colours, piles of sticky dates, imported cheeses, oversized fresh fruit and vegetables, rows of olive oil bottles and great hunks of meat. The Russians have long since been supplemented by other nationalities: the Yemenis have colonised the outskirts of the markets, while recent years have seen an influx of Chinese grocers as well as Ethiopian and Indian traders. Back in 2007, chef Maoz Alonim, came up with the idea of opening a restaurant inside

HaCarmel, using only produce available from the stalls around him in his kitchen. Before opening his restaurant HaBasta (4 Hashomer Street), Alonim used to cook for private parties, while his partner Itai Hargil worked in a number restaurants, as well as the popular Yoezer wine bar. “The original idea was just to serve good wine at a good price,” says Alonim, “but I was inspired by my travels in Europe to do more for a city where we had great produce.” And so HaBasta, the Hebrew word for

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T E L AV I V

PREVIOUS PAGE: STALL TRADER AT CARMEL MARKET AND HEAD CHEF AT HAHALUTZIM 3, EYTAN VANUNU. FAR LEFT: INBAL BAUM OF ‘DELICIOUS ISRAEL’. LEFT: THE ORGANIC FARMER’S MARKET AT THE REGENERATED PORT. ABOVE: THE CHEF AT HABASTA. BOTTOM LEFT: OFFAL IS A SPECIALITY AT HABASTA.

market stall, was born. Easy to miss, its caff-like frontage has no sign above the door, and is marked only by plain tables and chairs outside. But the lack of frills belies the sophistication of chef Alonim’s food, which many Tel Avivians consider to be some of the best in the city. “I decided to open my restaurant in Carmel Market because, as far as I’m concerned, it’s the only market in Tel Aviv where you can get absolutely everything,” continues Alonim. “From fresh seafood caught the same day by fishermen in Jaffa to offal delivered twice a week direct from the slaughterhouse, it’s all here.” And offal is a speciality at HaBasta: this is the place to come for brains on toast, hearts, kidneys, sweetbreads or spleen, or a dish of veal tongue, testicles and tripe. “I stole the idea from St John,” laughs Alonim, a selfconfessed admirer of the famous London restaurant’s nose-to-tail ethos. The squeamish can settle for the HaBasta’s signature dish, which is, oddly, a pizza topped with goat’s cheese, black truffles and a little asparagus in season. Eytan Vanunu, a former film student, quit university to cook alongside Alonim in HaBasta’s kitchen, where he worked for three years. Then, in 2012, he

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No.97986 Much More.indd 1

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T E L AV I V RIGHT: INSIDE HAHALUTZIM 3 AT LEVINSKY MARKET. BELOW: TEL AVIV’S CHEFS HAVE FRESH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES RIGHT ON THEIR DOORSTEP.

“I find inspiration for what I'm going to cook in my restaurant just by walking to work” decided to set up his own market restaurant, HaHalutzim 3 (3 Hahalutzim Street). The venue he chose was Levinsky Market in the slightly scruffy but raffish neighbourhood of Florentin. Although not quite as large as HaCarmel, Levinksy is every bit as diverse, populated by immigrants from Greece, Turkey, Iran and the Balkans selling nuts, spices, herbs, Turkish Delight in rainbow colours, aromatic teas and coffees. “At HaBasta, for the first time I experienced the chance to buy a wide selection of fruit, vegetables, olive oil, fresh ground spices, eggs and fish all from

right here in the market,” says Vanunu. “I serve meat, and especially pork, because I want to serve what I like to eat. Pork is, in fact, surprisingly popular in Israel; it’s raised here.” For Vanunu, one of the greatest things about having a restaurant inside a market is that he doesn’t have to go far to find inspiration for his dishes. “I can decide what I’m going to cook that day just walking by on my way to work.” In 2010, Tel Aviv’s food lovers found a new place to go: that year an organic farmer’s market was set up in the regenerated port area. It wasn’t long before Alon Fridman, impressed by the variety of unusual produce on offer (think purple carrots, black potatoes, gigantic berries, as well as organic meat, fish, cheese and oils) decided to open up a restaurant. Kitchen Market (at Hangar 12) occupies an airy space above the market stalls, with a large room dominated by a huge counter and communal central table with views of the buzz below.

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“My partner Asaf and I decided to situate our restaurant above the market because of the joy of the chef being able to just go and choose the best ingredients,” says owner Fridman. “As soon as the fabulous asparagus arrives at the market downstairs arrives, it comes straight upstairs to us,” says Fridman. Reserve ahead for lunch or dinner at the Kitchen Market – its light, delicious cuisine means that the restaurant is always fully booked. Inbal Baum even suggests that “maybe the wonderful fresh food of Kitchen Market is one reason that the Port Market has become Israel’s second biggest visitor attraction after the Western Wall in Jerusalem!” Running a market-sourced restaurant where the fruit, vegetables, meat and spices are an arm’s length away isn’t difficult – what makes these venues so special is the quality of the produce, and how the chefs prepare it. “That’s the magic of Israeli food markets, the outstanding, locally-sourced products,” says Baum. “The beauty of the food that our talented chefs create is that they let the simplicity of the produce do all the talking. In these restaurants you'll find only subtle sauces and gentle spicing. The intensity of the flavour comes from the market-fresh ingredients.” ABOVE: THE FARMERS’ MARKET AT THE PORT IS FAST BECOMING A TOURIST ATTRACTION IN ITS OWN RIGHT. LEFT: KITCHEN MARKET RESTAURANT CHAMPIONS ISRAEL’S WONDERFULLY FRESH PRODUCE.

TRY ONE OF THESE ISRAELI DISHES ● Falafel (chickpea balls) in pita with tahini and salad. Order them at Johnny Benin at 3 Tchernikovsky Street. ● Shakshuka, eggs baked in spicy tomato sauce, is a breakfast and lunchtime favourite. Dr. Shakshuka in Jaffa is the best-known, but Inbal Baum recommends Irit in the Yemenite Quarter at 13 HaCarmel Alley. ● Israeli breakfasts include cheeses and salads as well as eggs. Check out the sharing breakfast platters at Cafe Nimrod at Hangar 8, Tel Aviv Port. ● A bowl of hummus is the birthright of every Israeli, and some of the best is served at Abu Hassan on Dolphin Street in Jaffa. ● Sabich is Israel’s favourite takeaway snack, a mix of fried aubergine, egg, salad and tahini topped with mango chutney and packed into a pita. Try Sabich Tchernikovsky on Tchernikovsky Street.

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PERFECT H O L I DAYS AT A CLICK To celebrate the launch of new online travel platform Wizz Tours, we've created 15 trips to suit whatever kind of holidaymaker you are

ooking a holiday through Wizz Air’s new online travel platform is easy – at the touch of one button, Wizz Tours has both your flights and hotels sorted. A trusted brand, Wizz Tours is different. Wizz Tours offers maximum flexibility (you decide when and where you fly, and how long you want your holiday to last), fantastic savings (buying your flights and hotel together at the same time will save you money!) and convenience (your holiday is organised, instantly). All you need to do is decide where to go and what to do – and with so many fantastic Wizz Air destinations to choose from, that's a fun problem to have! But we’ve got that covered for you, too. Here we've created 15 possible Wizz Tours trips, whether you love shopping, skiing, surfing, partying or relaxing. Visit wizztours.com now and create your own perfect holiday.

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WIZZ TOURS

HIT THE SLOPES Who: Adrenaline junkies Where: Les Trois Vallées With more than 600km of pistes, 335 runs, eight different resorts (Méribel, Val Thorens and Courchevel are the main ones) plus the highest altitude in Europe (Val Thorens, at 2,300m), Les Trois Vallées (fly to Grenoble) is the largest ski area on the planet. With skiing for all abilities, on bluebird-sky days, you'll want to get up early and bomb down the groomed pistes. The après ski nightlife is legendary (order jägerbombs at the notorious Dick’s Tea Bar or slightly more sophisticated La Poste, both in Méribel) and the food sensational (try bison burgers with a view at Freeride Café at the Cime de Coran peak, at 3,200m, or unpretentious Michelin-starred cuisine at Azimut in Courchevel). This is the ultimate ski destination. les3vallees.com

PEDAL POWER Who: Two-wheel enthusiasts Where: Eindhoven

RETAIL THERAPY Who: Fashion-conscious spendthrifts Where: Milan

HANG TEN! Who: Cool dudes (and dudettes) Where: Tel Aviv

The Dutch are crazy about cycling. More than 70% of all journeys are made on two wheels and there are more bikes than people – but why is it so popular here? Well, the landscape is lush and flat, and everything is geared to making cyclists’ lives easier, from special bike lanes to ample bike parking, bike shops and bike-themed cafés. Amsterdam might be the most famous cycling city in the Netherlands, but Eindhoven is just as passionate. Plan a ride along the city’s canals, stopping off in Wandelpark Eckart and Genneperpark and do a loop of the Hovenring, a 70m-wide ring above a busy and dangerous (for cyclists) traffic junction – a spectacular piece of cycle infrastructure. Rent bikes, electric bikes and even scooters at the tourist information centre (vvveindhoven.nl).

Milan is always in vogue. One of the world’s most stylish capitals, fashion is the city’s biggest draw and for a weekend of shopping, you can’t do much better than this haute couture powerhouse. “Just the other day I walked past Giorgio Armani on Borgospesso, sat on the table next to Donatella Versace and bumped into Roberto Cavalli coming out of his showroom in Via della Spiga,” says personal shopper Melanie Payge (melaniepayge.com). The Quadrilatero d’Oro, (the ‘rectangle of gold’), has the highest concentration of high fashion in the world, with boutiques vying to offer the most luxurious experience. For bargains, visit around 7 January for the start of the sales, or visit the fabulous Serravalle outlet (mcarthurglen.com) just outside the city.

Without a doubt one of the world’s greatest beach cities, Tel Aviv’s focal point is the expanse of soft, golden sand that hugs the western fringe of the city. The beaches are safe and clean and the water is deliciously warm – even in winter – making Tel Aviv a year-round watersports destination. “Everything happens on the beach,” laughs surfer Shlomi Eini from Galim Surf School. “The beaches here provide different waves – left, right, big or small – so no matter what kind of surfer you are, you can ride a good wave here.” Carve up the waves like Shaun Tomson, Fast Eddie and Kelly Slater, who’ve all surfed here. Galim Surf School offers surf lessons from 150 shekels (€32), equipment included. surfingisrael.com

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FLAMENCO FEVER Who: Dancefloor divas Where: Málaga

TAKE THE PLUNGE Who: Sea dogs Where: Larnaca

Authentic flamenco involves more than clacking castanets and swishing frilly skirts. Flamenco is the synthesis of the lone cantaor (singer), sole toque (guitarist) and skilful dancer. It is intricate, passionate and energetic, yes, but it’s also soulful, harrowing and spontaneous. This frenetic folk dance originates from Andalucia, and you can’t visit Málaga without catching a show. See a flamenco performance at an authentic tablao flamenco (flamenco bar), such as Liceo Flamenco, open Thursday-Saturday (liceoflamenco.com) or attempt it yourself at the Escuela Flamenca at Fuengirola, just outside of the city. Look the part with a flamenco outﬁt from Viva la Feria (Calle Cisneros 4).

Never mind the Red Sea, the Caribbean and the Indian Ocean: the beautiful island of Cyprus is one of the top places to dive in the world. And when the Cypriot summer sunshine turns blistering hot, there’s nothing better than slipping beneath the cool water to see if you can spot Nemo and his friends. Thirty-two years ago, the gigantic cargo ship Zenobia sank with an estimated £200m worth of cargo but no casualties. Now this monster wreck sits 42m below the surface and is teeming with marine life, including brightly coloured groupers, wrasses, scorpion fish and amberjacks, while the odd barracuda or sea hare flits past. divezenobia.com

ARCHEOLOGICAL TREASURES Who: History buffs Where: Malta Malta might be the EU’s smallest member, but it’s one of the most historically rich countries in Europe, with a rich and complex past. Its strategic position and well-constructed harbours mean that Malta has been fought over by the world’s greatest empires for more than 2,500 years. Start your historical tour at the National Museum of Archaeology in micro-capital Valletta and then make your way to the Hypogeum, an underground cavity hewn out of rock. This subterranean wonder covers around 500m, dates back to 3,300BC and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And don’t miss the Neolithic temples of Tarxien, Hagar Qim and Mnajdra which predate the Pyramids. heritagemalta.org

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HOLIDAY ROMANCE Who: Honeymooning couples Where: Venice Ah, La Serenissima: just saying Venice’s Italian moniker out loud sounds wonderfully romantic. But thanks to its reputation as one of the most loved-up cities on earth, so many visitors now cram into this small lagoon city each month that it hardly feels like a destination for an intimate break. But Venice is still a magical destination for two when it comes to art, history, food and romance – if you know where to avoid the crowds. Dine in the city’s bàcari – informal wine bars – such as characterful All’Arco at San Polo 436, take a beaten-up traghetto, rather than an overpriced gondola, on the Grand Canal or visit the Ca’Pesaro (capesaro.visitmuve.it) for its understated collection of modern art and beautiful palazzo right on the canal.

CAMEL TREKKING Who: Intrepid travellers Where: Dubai

A BIG NIGHT OUT Who: Party people Where: Barcelona

BATH TIME Who: Stressed-out urbanites Where: Budapest

A glorious futuristic city famous for its skyscrapers and five-star resorts, it’s tempting to set yourself up in one Dubai’s cool, air-conditioned malls and relax. But that would be a waste of your trip: how often to you get to journey to a far-flung desert kingdom? For a magical experience, book yourself on a camel trek through Dubai’s sand dunes at sunset (it’s too hot to venture out before 4-5pm). Book through Explore Tours and for 400 dirhams (€82) a traditional Bedouin guide will lead you and your camel through the desert as the sun slips behind the dunes to a campsite where you can smoke a shisha pipe and enjoy a BBQ dinner. explorertours.ae

You’re not fooling us: you’re not going to Barcelona to see the Sagrada Familia. You want to party! And party experts Bar Chick (barchick. com) say Barcelona is the hedonism capital of Europe: “Whatever time of year and whatever time of night, there is always somewhere to go drink, dance and party.” That means drinking in the sunshine, afternoon siestas and partying that starts and finishes very late. Bar Chick’s top tips? “The Apolo [sala-apolo.com] has great live music and industrial-style Razzmatazz [salarazzmatazz. com] out in the sticks is where to go for a big one. Subterranean Macarena [macarenaclub. com] is like a mini house party with heavy music and an amazing atmosphere.”

Budapest isn’t called the City of Spas for nothing, so if you need to unwind, this is where to go. Gellert Bath (gellertbath.hu), dating back to 1918, is one of the grandest thermal baths in the city, housed in an art deco temple with mosaic floors, stained glass windows and stunning domed ceilings. As well as the indoor baths there are two outdoor pools, a salt chamber, a sauna and massage area. For something different, try Cinetrip’s famous sparties: a party inside one of Budapest’s historic spas. In the summer months they hold the parties outside at 100-year-old Széchenyi Baths (pictured below), in the winter inside Lukacs Bath. Dance music, cocktails, light shows and dancing in bikinis – it doesn’t get any more surreal than this. cinetrip.hu

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No.91565 Larix.indd 1

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B O R O V E T S ICEBERG is a new one luxurious complex, located at the heart of Bulgarian mountain resort Borovets. It is situated at the center of the resort near 150m to a ski cabins lift and the only church in Borovets. â&#x20AC;&#x153;ICEBERGâ&#x20AC;? is a first class apart-complex, working all year round, possessing unique combination of wonderful location,

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3FTFSWBUJPOT ] XIJUF@IPVTF@SFTFSWBUJPOT!BCW CH ] www.whitehousebg.net

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COOL FOR KIDS Who: Families Where: London London is jam-packed with things for little (and big!) kids. Most of London’s museums are free to visit, including the British Museum, the National History Museum, the V&A and the Science Museum. Reserve tickets online for big attractions such as the London Aquarium (visitsealife.com) to save queuing at peak time, and you can pre-book a ‘Behind the Scenes’ tour to access areas that are usually closed to the public. A family ticket (for four) costs £64.26 (€76). London Zoo (zsl.org), in Regent’s Park, recently unveiled its new Tiger Territory, and has a regular line-up of workshops. To stay with the big cat theme, at the West End you must see the theatrically astonishing Lion King (thelionking.co.uk), a sure-ﬁre family pleaser.

THE CLASSIC ROAD TRIP Who: Petrol heads Where: Amalfi

ART ATTACK Who: Culture Vultures Where: Paris

FOR FOOD LOVERS Who: Travelling gourmands Where: Rome

Considering the classic drive along the Amalfi coast, south of the Bay of Naples, is one of the world’s most scenic, it’s surprisingly short: just 35km. But don’t be fooled by its diminutive distance, this stretch of road from Vietri sul Mare to pastel-painted Positano has so much to see – including sweetly scented lemon groves, vineyards and countless pretty villages clinging to the craggy cliffs – that the drive could take you a week. Visit for yourself and you’ll see why this spectacular spot has inspired many luminary writers and artists, such as Joan Miró, D.H. Lawrence and Tennessee Williams, over the years. Hire a car (an Alfa Romeo, naturally) in Naples and then stop off at Ravello, unforgettable Amalfi and beautiful Praiano.

A city for art lovers, there are so many museums in Paris it’s hard to know where to start. There are the big hitters such as the Louvre (the world’s largest museum), the Musée D’Orsay (which showcases work by Renoir, Cézanne and Monet) and the Centre Pompidou (with its distinctive exposed pipes and air ducts) – all essential on any cultural intinerary, and free on the first Sunday of the month. Paris is known for its excellent exhibitions too, such as Cubism pioneer Georges Braque at the Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais (until 6 January, grandpalais.fr). But it’s not only in galleries that you’ll find fine art – it’s on the streets, too. Paris’ street art scene now rivals that of hipster Berlin. Take a street art tour or even try your hand at graffiti (at a secret location) with Underground Paris (undergroundparis.org).

Over the years, Rome has had a poor reputation for food: overpriced, so-so quality and bland flavours. But recently, Rome's food scene has blossomed and the results are delicious. “For a perfect balance between tradition and innovation, I visit Cesare al Casaletto [Via del Casaletto, 45], the best trattoria in Rome,” says blogger and food tour guide Katie Parla. “Here you'll ﬁnd dishes such as fried gnocchi served on a bed of savoury pecorino Romano sauce, pasta dishes that hit the spot and braised meats that fall off the bone.” Katie, one of six experts behind The Rome Digest (theromedigest. com), believes that her hometown is one of the best places for the all-Italian classic: pizza. “Celebrity chef Gabriele Bonce of Pizzarium [43 Via della Meloria] has elevated the pizza al taglio [pizza by the slice] to an art form,” she says.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Donetsk is a sports c ity. O ur athletes regularly bring home the Oly mpic and world medals. Our cit y h as built world-c lass v e n u e s and hosts major int e rnational eventsâ&#x20AC;? SERGEY BUBKA O LY M P I C C H A M P I O N

W O R D S BY P E T E R J O N C R E S S W E L L / I L L U S T R AT I O N BY VA L E R O D OVA L

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DONETSK

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CHAMP SERGEY BUBKA

he man behind the words on the page overleaf has every right to feel proud. Still, remarkably, world record holder – outdoor and indoor – in the discipline which he dominated for two decades, Ukrainian pole vaulter Sergey Bubka, who turns 50 this December, spent this summer campaigning to become the president of the International Olympic Committee. Jacques Rogge bowed out in September and Bubka, an IOC member since 2008, was one of six challengers for the prestigious position. Sadly he was pipped to the post by German candidate Thomas Bach, but his standing for the election confirms Bubka’s status as one of the most powerful people in world sport. Bubka’s career began in Donetsk. “I moved here at the age of 15. Back then the city already had great sport traditions and sport schools supported by the local government and sport enthusiasts. It gave opportunities to many young people, including myself.” These traditions, in particular football, were part of the town from the outset. Donetsk was built by John Hughes, a Welsh entrepreneur commissioned by the Tsar in the mid-19th century. Industry, the railway, the layout of the area itself, all were developed under Hughes, who not only gave his name to the town but also to the sports association at the steelworks, the ﬁ rst organised football played in the town of ‘Yuzovka’ (‘Little Hughes’). Under Communism, Yuzovka became Stalino, and a new club was formed,

PHOTO BY GETTY

THE DONBASS ARENA

“The five-star Donbass Arena is not only a sports venue. It's the beating heart of this footballcrazy city”

Stakhanovets (named after the celebrated miner and propaganda hero Alexey Stakhanov, who achieved record targets). After the war, Stakhanovets became Shakhtyor, the Russian version of what later became the Ukrainian Shakhtar following independence in 1991. Currently champions of Ukraine four times running, Shakhtar Donetsk are based at the Donbass Arena, the centre of a footballing empire built by club owner Rinat Akhmetov, one of the richest men in the Ukraine. Before that, Shakhtar played at the Olympic Stadium, close to the Donbass Arena, fronted by a huge statue of Bubka himself. It was here that 1,500 young athletes from 165 nations took part in July’s World Youth Championships. Bubka also founded the annual Pole Vault Stars meet, still held at the Druzhba Palace of Sports. After Akhmetov began investing serious money into Shakhtar, football took precedence over other sports. Shakhtar won their ﬁ rst Ukrainian title in 2002 and quickly gathered steam, partly thanks to a number of key Brazilians picked up relatively cheaply and sold on for a huge profit. Plans were drawn up for a new stadium, a €300m superdome, the Donbass Arena. Ringed by two high-end hotels and a recreational park still in development, the Donbass Arena is an object lesson to any ex-Soviet oligarch on how to build a soccer empire behind the old Iron Curtain. In 2007, Ukraine won the bid to co-stage

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INSIDE THE DONBASS ARENA

Euro 2012, with the Donbass Arena as a semi-ﬁ nal venue. Opened on Miner’s Day, August 2009, and marked by a performance from Beyoncé, the futuristic Donbass Arena nonetheless takes its inspiration from the surrounding backdrop of slag heaps, an attempt to embrace Shakhtar’s Stakhanovite past rather than ignore it. Its futuristic look is no accident, as designers ArupSport were also behind the Allianz Arena in Munich and the Beijing National Stadium (or ‘Bird’s Nest’),

BC DONETSK IN ACTION

which opened in 2005 and 2008 respectively. Other features include a sports bar, a club shop, a nightclub, a restaurant and an excellent club museum – all as good as almost any in the Premiership or La Liga. A stadium tour is well worth considering. “Since its opening, the Donbass Arena has changed the landscape of the city,” says Bubka. “Shakhtar’s ﬁve-star venue is an iconic location for locals and the symbol of Donetsk. The Donbass Arena is not only a sports venue – it is the beating heart of this footballcrazy city. The ﬁve Euro 2012 matches were a fantastic celebration and great experience for local fans. The legacy left from the tournament was more than just sport, hotel and transport infrastructure. We inspired young people. That is the power that sport has after any major or minor sporting event. “For [biennial basketball tournament] EuroBasket 2015, one group will be based in Donetsk, at the Kalmius Arena, now under construction. This will also be the new home venue for HC Donbass, as well as all kinds of indoor sports. I know that the owners of the Kalmius Arena have ambitions to make it one of the best in the region.” Owned by the former deputy prime minister of Ukraine, Borys Kolesnikov, ice-hockey club Donbass are Ukraine’s only team to have played in the Russian Major League and at elite European level. In January this year, Donetsk hosted the Super Final of the IIHF Continental Cup – won, of course, by HC Donbass.

As for basketball itself, BC Donetsk, aka ‘The Tigers’, won the Ukrainian Super League in 2012 and took part in the Euroleague. In recent years, the city has also hosted major championships in volleyball, tennis (including the Davis Cup) and boxing. Sailboat racing takes place on the River Kalmius. “Hosting sport events gives locals an opportunity to watch the world’s best athletes and encourages all to get involved,” concludes Bubka. “The example of Donetsk shows how sport can create opportunity for everyone.”

MUST-SEE SPORT EVENTS ● Missed the Shakhtar vs Man Utd game in Donetsk on 2 October? Any sports bar in the city (we recommend Svoy on University Street) will be screening the second leg match held at Old Trafford on 10 December. ● See HC Donbass take on Russian teams Admiral Vladivostok (28 October) or Salavat Yulaev Ufa (24 November) at the Druzhba Arena. ● Book yourself on a tour of Donbass Arena, home to the mighty Shakhtar Donetsk. What’s more, plan your visit for the first or third Monday in a month, when entry to FC Shakhtar Museum is priced at 5 hyrvna (€0.45). donbass-arena.com

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MOSCOW

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The Cool Guide to Moscow We challenged Anisha Patel, first-time visitor to the Russian capital, to uncover the city's trendiest haunts using tips gleaned only from social media

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MOSCOW St Basil's Cathedral

ith its retro Star Wars posters, hand-written menus and some of the cheapest food in the city, you wouldn’t expect Lucky Noodles (20/1 Petrovka) to be the doorway to the hippest playground in Moscow. But this Chinatownstyle noodle bar is merely a front for Russian restaurateur Arkady Novikov’s secret lounge bar Mendeleev (mendeleevbar.ru) where, come nightfall, live music and Champagne absinthe cocktails entertain the trendiest – and most attractive – young Muscovites. I’m worried my skinny jeans won’t be hip enough to get me in. Lucky Noodles and Mendeleev are great examples of how Moscow’s younger generation are defying the image that all Russians are oligarchs; ostentatious and over-indulgent. Instead, they’re taking inspiration from the creative elite that are shaping edgy areas in European cities, and bringing that same touch all over the Russian capital. Armed with my iPhone and various social media apps, I’m determined to see if I can experience the best of Moscow, while keeping up with the cool kids. My first shout out is for a morning coffee stop. A tweet comes in from a fellow travel writer that points me towards Kitay Gorod, a trendy 13th-century neighbourhood just east of the Red Square, and in particular, a café called Tsiferblat (12 Pokrovka). Translated as ‘Clockface’, you’re charged not for the number of cups of coffee and biscuits you consume, but by the amount of time you spend there (it’s two roubles (€0.04) per minute for the first hour and then one rouble (€0.02) per minute thereafter). Before I even document my first caffeine fix on Instagram, I get another tweet from @Ukuleleshnaya who, noticing that I’m in the area, invite me to visit their shop of the same name just down the road (3/7 Pokrovka, uku-uku.

Kitay Gorod neighbourhood

ru). As well as selling ukuleles, the small stringed instruments, the cosy space is also somewhere that you can pick up vinyl records and nurse a herbal tea, flat white or, as I opt for, a freshly blended fruit smoothie. “We chose this area because we wanted a location near the historical centre which is still modern and feels alive,” explains co-owner Valeria Dorodnykh, 24, as her co-worker Andrei Gusav, also 24, plays a tune on one of the many ukuleles. Later, I get a tweet from @Garage CCC, a contemporary art museum set by Pionersky Pond in Gorky Park – which has become a hotspot for Moscow’s youngsters since it got a facelift a few years ago. Garage is the brainchild of Russian entrepreneur and socialite Dasha Zhukova (yes, Chelsea FC owner Roman Abramovich’s other half ). I meet Maria Alexanyan, 28, at Garage’s

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MOSCOW G Café, who explains that the centre hosts interactive exhibitions, performances, lectures, ﬁ lm screenings and avant-garde concerts, and also reaches out to children with art therapy in its newly built workshop. It’s easy to see why this would attract the cool crowds: yoga and Pilates classes are offered in the leafy summer pavilion, ping-pong tables are set up next to bean bags, there’s free Wi-Fi and G Café’s menu is seasonal and organic. Maria mentions Oldich Dress & Drink (Bolshaya Dmitrovka 11, oldich.ru) to me, Moscow’s ﬁ rst vintage store, which opened last year. It’s a word-of-mouth suggestion and technically not the kind of social networking I signed up for, but I decide that it still counts. Less than a 10-minute stroll from Moscow’s famous Bolshoi Theatre, Oldich is a breath of fresh air in an area where designer brands like Dior and Louboutin thrive. “Moscow has

Garage CCC in Gorky Park

Oldich Dress & Drink

Gourmet pizza at Montalto

Inside Garage CCC

Anastasia Karpova (left) and Elena Kamay (right)

second-hand shops, but this is something new altogether,” explains co-founder Elena Kamay, 30, as she shows me around. Dotted with kitsch ornaments, belle epoque posters and vintage furniture (literary buffs take note, it’s also home to an armchair that’s rumoured to have belonged to Oscar Wilde) the impressive interior is courtesy of East London designer David Carter. There’s a bar and restaurant downstairs and an open-air terrace for the summer months. With food on my mind, my hash-tagging has caught the eye of a mover and shaker on the restaurant scene, 29-year-old Aleksandra “Sasha” Zaytseva. She invites me to meet her at Montalto (20 Sadovaya Kudrinskaya, montalto. ru), a pizzeria on the outskirts of the Patriarshy Ponds, renowned for its artistic and celebrity residents. The exposed brickwork, industrial design and stylish crowds scream Brooklyn, and it should come as no surprise as its owner, Isaac Correa, came to Moscow from New York in 1994 and now operates four dining venues in the city. We dig into a wood-ﬁred gourmet pizza piled with meaty chunks of local king crab, blanched asparagus, a creamy béchamel sauce and gooey Gruyère cheese. It’s no secret that Muscovites have a sweet tooth; you’ll see proof of that in the number of bakeries around the city, including Correa’s Upside Down (76 Bolshaya Gruzinskaya, upsidedowncake.ru), where Sasha takes me after dinner. It’s like a modern Breakfast at Tiffany’s on a sugar high: there are blackboard menus and glittering chandeliers, while on the counter, there’s a display of freshly made, fluffy meringues, a big bowl of banana cream pudding and a colourful array of the hottest sweet treat in Moscow right now – cupcakes. The next day, Sasha introduces me to her friend Aliona Ermakova, 27, via Facebook (naturally) who is the co-founder of Stay WIZZ MAGAZINE / 61

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Banana cream pie at Upside Down

Hungry (facebook.com/pages/Stay-HungryMoscow/342710355826682), Moscow’s ﬁrst private supper club. She launched the concept last December with two friends to get similarminded people together who want to discuss modern culture and try new food experiences. “We’re trying to push a modern revolution against what everyone’s perceptions of Russians are like,” Aliona tells me. The group is strictly pre-approved on Facebook, and the menu and chef for each week – who could range from an avid food blogger to the chef at Moscow’s Nobu – aren’t revealed until the night. When I check my Facebook, I see I have a message from Bek Nazri, 37, founder of the Russian Cocktail Club (russiancocktailclub. com). Nazri helped kickstart the contemporary cocktail bar scene, not only in Moscow, but arguably Russia, so he knows a thing or two about where to get a decent vodka cocktail. His recommendations include Time Out Bar (5b Sadovaya) on the 13th floor of the Stalinist Peking Hotel and is where the city’s most acclaimed mixologist, Alexander Kan, has created a menu designed around different times of day, like his signature ‘Isaev’, a simple blend of vodka, birch sap and lemon. Later, Sasha messages me and insists we go to Mendeleev – it seems that my social networking experience of Moscow has come full circle. I’m wary, partly because the Lucky Noodles staff might recognise me from before, but mostly due to the “face control” policy that ensures only the beautiful people can enter Moscow’s top bars. We turn up and it’s closed – probably as it’s 2am on a Wednesday – so I never get to learn whether it lives up to the hype or if I possess an aesthetically pleasing face. I may have not made it into Mendeleev, but from what I’ve seen of modern Moscow, it isn’t always the big and bold that end up being the real stars of the show.

Time Out Bar

GET CONNECTED ● Using social media to get around in Moscow, like our savvy writer, doesn’t mean you have to rack up horrendous data roaming charges on your smartphone. Wi-Fi connection is readily available throughout the city at restaurants, cafés, bars and art spaces – you’ll even find it in some taxis. Just ask the owners for the password. They’re more than happy to help out, especially if it might result in a Tweet about them! ● A special thanks to the Russian National Tourist Office (visitrussia. org.uk) for providing visas for our writer’s stay. WIZZ MAGAZINE / 63

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P Wa r

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e for noto We r o p rio m sp e’s ea mo ed it us d k fin s s i d o t o f t ex e l f i s t r i c ive ci nt t ut cre ting o on has th eb a eo a Wo uz tive rt h f r d Ph za typ ubs ot s by b . e ou og t P s to ra Dan ph ra ga y b iel W yT ell im b E. elov e W hit e Eu

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ross the Vistula River from the Old Town and you’ll find yourself in Praga. Characterised by its crumbling factories, warehouses and gritty streets, this arty underbelly hugging the east side of the Visulta is undeniably cool, with new bohemian bars, galleries, studios and cultural venues popping up almost every month. But 20 years ago this wasn’t the case. A down-at-heel industrial area, a trip to Praga back then was considered extremely extremely brave – or extre some reckless. In fact, ask som Varovisans today about Praga it’s still a bit and they’ll tell you it’ too edgy – and not in a good way. denying that But there’s no d blossomed over Praga has bloss years, with its the past years burgeoning arts scene leading the way – and it’s about to get when a new metro a huge boost b opens in Warsaw next year. But will w an influx of people mean that Praga will lose its me ccutting-edge cool? As the area is about to about to enter the next stage of its artistic development, we speak to five Praga creatives to find out why they think their beloved corner of Warsaw is the most exciting art district in Europe.

The Artist: David Pataraia For many years, Georgian-born David was an artist without a home. Courses were begun at the Fine Arts Academies in Tbilisi, Warsaw, Poznan and Krakow, but none completed – “I’m forever a student,” he laughs. This nomadic lifestyle ﬁ nally came to an end when he discovered Praga in 1998, and was won over by the cheap rent and its growing bohemian reputation. “Artists, actors and sculptors were all just starting to set up here,” he says. “This was a very liberal environment where I could just commit to painting.”

The existing residents proved receptive. “People here are always quick to say hello. Everyone was happy to live side by side.” Two years ago, David moved to a new studio in the old Koneser vodka distillery (pictured above) on lively Ząbkowska Street. Built in 1897, the venue is the place to be seen in Praga and houses galleries, a theatre and nightclub, and other cultural events. “Like a lot of Praga, there’s a good balance between the old and the new,” David says of the factory. “There’s a special atmosphere in which it’s easy to make art every day.” davidpataraia.com

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The Gallery Curator: Lidia Polubiec Ask about galleries in Praga and you’ll find one name pops up time and again: Bochenska. This gallery, in the former Koneser vodka distillery, exhibits a fantastic selection of contemporary Polish artists and the brightest young talent. “Praga is so vibrant,” says Lidia, who joined Bochenska in 2006. “This is the only real Old Town in Warsaw, and the only place where you can see the city’s original buildings and their interiors, which makes it a great place to make and display art.” While Bochenska stands strong, Lidia has seen other galleries either close or move away. “I think the buzz is still building in Praga, but it comes and goes in different spots, so your perception depends on whichever street you’re standing.” bochenskagallery.pl

The Architects: Marcin Garbacki and Karolina Tunajek If Praga’s unique atmosphere comes from its relationship between past and present, nobody captures this synergy as well as Marcin and Karolina, the duo behind architectural firm Projekt Praga. They specialise in revitalising old, often abandoned buildings, refitting them for a new purpose using crisp, modern designs. Much of their early work was in Praga, most notably at Soho Factory, the sprawling business and cultural complex that hosts their

office, and both are natives of the east side of the river. “Creative firms have come here looking for a space that’s a little bit special, where prices are cheaper and they can collaborate with like-minded companies,” says Marcin. “But we’re avoiding the bad aspects of gentrification, and as the old residents haven’t been replaced, it means the area has kept its character.” They are optimistic about Praga’s future, and the impact of the new metro. “Many on Warsaw’s left side think Praga is still dangerous. Hopefully this will open it up,” says Karolina. projektpraga.pl

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The Arty Bar Owners: Olga Szaltis and Magda Woźn iak “It’s for everyone, but not for everyone,” laughs Olga, talking about Skład Butelek, the bar she has owned with her twin sister Magda for the past eight years. Inside, you see what she means. Though friendly, Skład Butelek is dominated by the bohemian crowd now associated with Praga. Its brick surfaces and mismatched furniture – think ornate leather armchairs and stark wooden stools – are staples for wannabe hip bars throughout Europe, but here it all feels gloriously authentic. The

walls exhibit paintings by locals, while the venue hosts regular gigs, poetry readings and ﬁlm showings. The twins are former singers who wanted a laid-back spot where they could hang out with friends. “Praga was perfect,” says Olga. “It’s like living in a very small town within a bigger city.” Yet both are cautious about the future, preferring the Praga of eight years ago. “It was more dangerous then, but everything seemed more exciting. The area had more of a soul,” says Magda. “The new metro may bring more customers, but it could lose the atmosphere we fell in love with.” skladbutelek.pl

The Aspiring Artist: Tomasz Kopcewicz In Tomasz’s paint-splattered studio on a Praga backstreet, artworks lie stacked against every wall, testament to a prodigious rate of production since he moved to Warsaw. Initially drawn by Praga’s affordable rents, he found himself in the middle of a thriving creative community. “It’s easy to work in an environment like this,” s,” he admits. “This side of the river ver is far less sanitised.” Inspiration was immediate, iate, with local street grids featuring aturing in his early work. Tomasz’s asz’s story

is familiar to artists ts here. He commutes across ss the city to his studio, located d in a post-industrial building characterised aracterised by long, dark corridors dors and metal doors. In between een exhibitions, he works odd jobs bs in construction to make up the he rent. With money so tight, this is fragile balance is at risk. “In ﬁve years, there’ll be far more people living here. It’s good to have more diversity but prices are also going to go up.” Despite this, he has no plans to go anywhere else in Warsaw. “Praga is strange, but there’s nowhere better to work,” he says. Wizz Air flies to Warsaw's central airport, Frederic Chopin.

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PROMOT ION

AUTUMN IN POL AND Where to go and what to do in one of Europe’s most fascinating countries oland’s rise as a leading European destination continues unabated, as more and more tourists discover its autumn charms and business travellers spot the potential that exists in the corridor between western and eastern Europe. From the Baltic Sea to the Tatra mountains, we look at some of the exciting hotspots that have accompanied this emergence. Beginning in Warsaw, the fabulous Thai Thai restaurant has quickly acquired top table status on the city’s gastronomic scene. The same applies to its sister restaurant in the northern resort of Sopot, where visitors can follow a meal with a night at the luxurious Bayjonn Hotel. Just up the road in Gdańsk, the 3City Hostel provides an elegant yet affordable rest stop in the heart of the Old Town. In the south, the recently re-opened Hotel Kracow Residence offers everything that any traveller could ever need, whether they are on their own or in a group. For a first-class shopping experience, head to Poznań, where one of Poland’s largest malls opens on 25 October. And after a long day browsing the rails, nothing beats a relaxing session at the new IBB Andersia & Harmonia Spa. Or stay at Apartamenty Pomaranczarnia, which provides value for money as you live like a local. Meanwhile, the city is renowned for its excellent medical facilities, foremost among which is Dr Agnieszka Majewska’s innovative Centrum Stomatologii i Medycyny Estetycznej.

THAI THAI With a pair of elegant restaurants in Warsaw and Sopot, Thai Thai stands at the forefront of Thai cuisine in Poland. Perfectly balancing the sweet, the sour, the spicy and the savoury, every dish on the menu has been carefully refined to provide guests with all the authentic tastes and aromas of Thailand. Head chef Sanad Changpuen – formerly of the Oriental at the Warsaw Sheraton – brings together only the freshest ingredients to create a variety of dishes set to make the mouth water. From tom yam kung to spicy shrimp soup with lemongrass and coriander, the finest seafood and cuts of meat are used to create a menu packed with the intense flavours that have come to define Thai food. The belief here is that there is no better accompaniment than wine, so master sommelier Paweł Demianiuk is also on hand for some friendly advice on how to complete a truly comprehensive dining experience. The Warsaw restaurant is located in the city’s grand National Opera Theatre, making it the perfect spot for a pre-show meal or a post-show glass of Champagne, while a selection of private rooms are available for those wanting to host a meeting in casual surroundings. In Sopot, the Thai Thai restaurant enjoys a prime setting on the prestigious Bohaterów Monte Cassino street, where it offers the same high quality experience as its sister eatery in the capital. Both restaurants are open seven days a week – from noon every day in Warsaw, and 1pm in Sopot.

thaithai.pl Warsaw: Plac Teatralny 3; +48 601 81 82 83, info@thaithai.waw.pl Sopot: Bohaterów Monte Cassino 63; +48 58 551 11 00; info@thaithai.pl

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3C I T Y H OS T EL

H OT EL B AYJ O N N

It’s every traveller’s dream: a place to stay with the standards of a hotel for the price of a hostel. That’s exactly what you get at the modern 3City Hostel in Gdańsk’s beautiful Old Town, located just around the corner from the city’s foremost monuments, restaurants and bars. Here, 20 spacious rooms sleep up to 104 people and come furnished in the style of Rome, Paris or Toyko, while there is also a cosy living room with a fully-fitted kitchen.

Located on Sopot’s famous Bohaterów Monte Cassino street, this modern four-star hotel offers the first-class standards of service to match the uniqueness of its striking contemporary design. Ideal for those looking to combine work and relaxation in the centre of the city, Bayjonn’s boutique nature ensures that every guest will always feel safe and comfortable, while all 22 guests rooms are elegantly designed with their own individual character that somehow reflects the history of the resort.

Targ Drzewny 12/14, Gdańsk, Poland; +48 58 354 54 54, +48 601 674 675 www.3city-hostel.pl, info@3city-hostel.pl

Powstańców Warszawy 7, Sopot, Poland +48 730 71 71 71, bayjonnhotel.com, recepcja@bayjonnhotel.pl

HOTEL KRACOW RESIDENCE A striking century-old front hides beautifully appointed and modern interiors at this exclusive three-star hotel in the heart of Kazimierz – one of Krakow’s most historical and interesting districts. Restored and reopened in July 2013, guests are just a 10-minute walk from the city’s main square, located less than a stone’s throw from its foremost cultural and tourist attractions. Inside, 25 single and double rooms and 18 luxury suites provide the ideal resting spot for both business travellers and holiday-makers. All are comfortably and richly furnished in warm colours, and come with satellite TV, free Wi-Fi, tea and coffee-making facilities and individually controlled air-conditioning. The hotel knows that different members of the same party often enjoy different routines, and so the bedrooms are set off a separate living room, allowing guests to rest without fear of being disrupted. A huge amount of effort has gone into renovating the basement of the hotel, perfecting every detail to ensure that guests are guaranteed to relax after a hectic day working, sightseeing or travelling. It now features a dry sauna open to hotel guests only and a massage facility, where skilled therapists provide a variety of rejuvenating treatments. Business customers can also rent the conference room, which comes with all the equipment needed for a modern and successful meeting. Soundproofed and well-lit, it offers everything required for a professional presentation or training course for up to 40 people. Service packages are available for groups, individuals and business travellers, as well as a complete package for families with children.

Starowiślna 62, Krakow, Poland +48 124 217 474, kracowresidence.pl

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POZNAN PROMOT ION

A THING OF BEAUT Y A new look can change your life. Centrum Stomatologii i Medycyny Estetycznej is here to help oznań has picked up a formidable reputation for the high quality and professionalism of its medical facilities, and increasing numbers of people are now visiting the city purely for treatment at one of these star clinics. Leading the way is Dr Agnieszka Majewska’s Centrum Stomatologii i Medycyny Estetycznej, which does wonders in the fields of aesthetic dentistry and medicine, changing the life of any customer that walks through its doors. Dr Majewska is a graduate of the Medical University of Warsaw, where she worked alongside some of Poland’s foremost aesthetic specialists. Since then, she has collaborated with many of the country’s finest clinics, while her vast experience and knowledge have made her one of Poland’s principal consultants to the cosmetic industry. Her modern centre is fully-equipped with the latest technological advances and offers the discretion and first-class service you expect from today’s cutting-edge facilities. Care is taken to ensure every patient is treated as an individual, and treatments are adjusted to suit any particular need.

The centre offers a wide range of procedures in the field of aesthetic medicine, including non-surgical face lifts, Botox and hyaluronic acid treatments, all designed to restore the elasticity, flexibility and smoothness of your skin, while First Lift, Happy Lift and Aptos threading provide other non-invasive ways to target drooping and wrinkles. Liposuction is performed without the need for surgery thanks to innovative treatments such as injection lipolysis, using the latest methods pioneered by Aqualix and Celluform. Permanent stain removal using Varilite lasers is also available. Meanwhile, the clinic ranks among the country’s finest in cosmetic dentistry. Its laser teeth whitening salon is authorised by Beyond, Europe’s leading whitening company, and can leave you with a shiny new smile in just one visit. The clinic is open from Monday to Friday, from 11am to 7pm. Quote “centrum medic” to receive a 15% discount on all of the services available.

THE CENTRE DOES WONDERS IN THE FIELDS OF AESTHETIC DENTISTRY AND MEDICINE

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Kochanowski 17A, Poznań, Poland +48 61 22 16 576, +48 530 57 88 88 centrummedic.pl

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APARTAMENTY POMARANCZARNIA

IBB ANDERSIA & HARMONIA SPA

Live like a local in the historical centre of Poznań, near the old market square and the Stary Browar art and business centre. These comfortable apartments provide all the luxury of a top hotel, but allow you to keep total independence. They each come with lush rest areas, modern bathrooms and work spaces with Wi-Fi access, as well as a fully-equipped kitchen. Both individual guests and tourist groups are warmly welcomed.

Take a break from the stress of travelling at the four-star IBB Andersia Hotel, where, behind a grand glass-fronted exterior, the Harmonia Spa and Wellness Centre provides a peaceful retreat in the heart of Poznan. Here, world-class facilities meet the height of luxury. At the end of a long day, there’s nothing better than a dip in the pool, a visit to the sauna or a Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Nui massage (240 PLN), accompanied by the calming babble of the waterfall, and all overseen by friendly and professional staff.

Rybaki 12, Poznań, Poland +48 515 377 320, apartamenty-pomaranczarnia.pl

Plac Andersa 3, Poznań, Poland +48 61 667 80 00, andersiahotel.pl

POZNAN CITY CENTER Opening on 25 October 2013, Poznań’s largest shopping centre is set to provide the city’s residents, commuters and tourists with an exceptional retail experience to rival any on the continent. Easily accessible, this multifunctional facility will provide Poznań with a brand new transportation and commercial hub in the centre of the city, just across from the International Fair complex. Inside, both international and local brands can be found among its 200-plus shops, with H&M, TK Maxx, Royal Collection, Bershka, Pull & Bear, Stradivarius, Mango, Deichmann, Rossmann, Douglas, Superpharm, Saturn, Piotr i Paweł and Poznań’s first Toys “R” Us store among the famous names represented. Elsewhere, some 35 restaurants and cafés make up two huge food courts, and provide plenty of choice for the hungry shopper. Here, they will find international chains such as Pizza Hut, McDonald’s, KFC, Burger King, Nordsee and Subway, as well as some from closer to home, including Sphinx, Pizza Dominium, Olimp, SaladStory, ThaiWook and Apetito. CoffeeHeaven, Grycan, Mount Blanc, Cukiernia Kandulski and Sowa are also on hand for those seeking respite in a cup of coffee. Poznań City Center will open every day from morning to late evening. Excellent public transport links make it a breeze to get to, while the threestorey car park can hold up to 1,500 cars. A true landmark in terms of architecture and design, it promises to offer the same buzz that makes the centre of Poznań so special – a must-visit for any guest in the city!

Matyi, Poznań, Poland poznancitycenter.pl

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PROMOT ION

TOP: ZANZIBAR INN, LAUVSNES. ABOVE: OLE MARTIN DAHLE.

OLD WORLD, NEW TASTE Years of investment have catapulted Asconi Winery to the forefront of the European wine market ince 1994, Moldova’s Asconi Winery has invested heavily in the modernisation of every stage of its winemaking process. Born out of the ruins of Soviet communism, it has been transformed into a leading European facility, complete with the latest innovations in technology and conforming to the highest continental standards. And these improvements have had a hugely positive effect on the quality of the wine, which can now be controlled from the time the grapes are picked to when the cork is put in the bottle. With over 500ha of vineyards, Asconi is able to cultivate a wide range of different grape varieties. These include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, saperavi and Alicante, which go into its red wines; and chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, muscat ottonel and muscat moravsky, which go into its whites. In the winery, all of the old equipment from 20 years ago has now been sold off, with new replacements bought with the help of funding from the European Union, as well as the company’s own continual investment. The freshly picked grapes are pressed in modern Italian presses, and then fermented in high-grade, temperature-controlled steel tanks. The wine produced is passed through filtration machines to eliminate even the smallest unwanted particles. To give them their own unique character, the

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red wines at the top end of the range are then aged in a variety of oak barrels from France, California and Hungary. The last step in the process is the bottling. The wine is moved from its tanks to a microfiltration unit and then poured into empty glass bottles that have been rinsed in distilled water. Launched in 2011, the bottling line is able to turn out up to 8,000 bottles per hour. Add a cork, label and box them up, and the wines are ready to hit the shelves. Asconi is now producing much higher quality wine than at any point in its history – a direct result of its years of investment. This has allowed the company to shift its exports from its traditional Russian and CIS markets to those in the EU, with the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Israel, China, the US, the UK, Nigeria and Kenya among the countries where its wine is already sold. And it’s not just available in speciality wine shops, but also in leading chain stores and supermarkets such as Tesco, Kaufland, Billa and Metro, so you’ve no excuse for not picking up a bottle when you next go shopping.

FCP ASCONI SRL +373 79988133, +373 26864274 asconi.md, sirbuandrei@asconi.md, asconi@asconi.md

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PROMOT ION

ИНФОРМ А ЦИОННЫЕ ТЕХНОЛОГИИ A franchise deal with ‘From the Village’ could prove a fruitful partnership

то отличает бизнесмена от обывателя? Желание созидать, творить, создавать возможности и условия. Когда предприниматель сталкивается с проблемой которую нельзя решить стандартными способами, он видит поле для творчества и деятельности. Владимир Демяненко – один из создателей проекта «Из деревни!»- не исключение. — Изначально мы IT-компания. — рассказывает Владимир, — Мы с партнерами М. Ивониным и Л. Дудиным создали и развивали социальную бизнес-сеть www.promdex.com . История проекта «Из деревни!» началась с рождения моего ребенка, которому, как и другим, нужно качественное питание, а мы живем в индустриальном регионе и найти натуральные продукты - целая история. Предложения супермаркетов и рынков не устраивали. Но в стране множество ответственных производителей натуральной продукции, но разбросанных географически . После обсуждения с партнерами появился концепт IT-проекта, посредством которого жители мегаполисов могут заказать, с доставкой на дом, высококачественную продукцию от производителя. Стартовал «Из деревни!» в конце 2011 года в Северодонецке, а в мае 2012 открылась доставка в Луганск. В декабре 2012 в Донецке была реализована первая франшиза. Партнерское отделение еще до весны вышло в фарватер рентабельности. Отмечу, что на тот момент действий по поиску франчази не велось, так как мы только развивали «Из деревни!» на своей территории и дорабатывали функционал системы. Результаты донецких франчази вдохновили, и мы принялись за активные поиски партнеров в других городах. Сегодня «Из деревни!» обслуживает Крым, Днепропетровск, Запорожье, Киев и Алматы. В Казахстане бренд локализирован и называется www.aulberekesi.kz «Из деревни!» это система эффективного взаимодействия с фермерами-поставщиками состоящая из таких составляющих как качественная логистика, служба поддержки, система аналитики и управления, приятный и понятный для клиентов онлайн-каталог. “Из деревни!” — это модель готового бизнеса «под ключ». — Жители любого мегаполиса должны и хотят вкусно и здорово питаться, и мы ищем партнеров готовых обеспечить своих горожан высококачественной продукцией и достойным обслуживанием. Если вы видите в «Из деревни!» интересное и доходное дело, то пишите на vladimir@promdex.com. У нас есть самое главное: инновационная бизнес-идея, механизм реализации и опыт, который позволит запустить , настроить и вывести вас в зону прибыльности в кратчайшие сроки.

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When you live in an urban area, with all of the environmental problems that come with it, it can be almost impossible to find tasty organic food,” says Vladimir Demyanenko, co-founder of the social business network promdex.com and the pioneering ‘From the Village’ project. “I always knew that we had a lot of responsible manufacturers with good products, but they were scattered geographically. That’s why we developed a new IT concept that enables city residents to receive delicious and, more importantly, fresh natural produce from different suppliers delivered directly to their home.” Together with partners Michael Ivonin and Leonid Dudin, Vladimir worked tirelessly to create the infrastructure required to make this concept a reality. They refined their internet directory, izderevni.ua, and a process automation system, while searching high and low to find suitable vendors. In November 2011, the first orders were finally despatched to customers in Severodonetsk, a small town in eastern Ukraine. After a few months testing the system in the city – fixing bugs and making improvements – the team were able to expand the service to Lugansk, the region’s administrative centre, in May 2012. The project quickly gained momentum and, by summer, was able to sell its first franchise – quite an achievement, since they had not yet given any thought to finding a franchisee. This new office was established in Donetsk in December, as the company rode a wave of greater profitability into the winter. The encouraging success of the Donetsk office inspired the founders to actively seek partners in new markets. The search proved fruitful, with a ‘From the Village’ service now available in the Crimea, Dnepropetrovsk, Zaporozhye, Kiev and Almaty. A localised scheme has also been set up in Kazakhstan, under the domain name aulberekesi.kz Implementing the basic principles of good logistics, the system benefits from the effective interaction between farmers and suppliers. The company has complemented this with a professional team of system analysts and managers, while always providing an organised and friendly service. “All city dwellers should be able to eat tasty and healthy food,” says Vladimir. “That’s why we are looking to meet new forward-thinking partners who are not alien to the craving of innovation and are ready to provide their customers with high quality service and products.” To learn more about this fascinating and profitable franchise opportunity, email vladimir@promdex.com

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D E S T I N AT I O N M A P

GLASGOW DONCASTER/SHEFFIELD LIVERPOOL LONDON LUTON CORK

OUR PICK OF THE BEST CIT Y BREAKS THIS AUTUMN 80 80 82 85 85 86 88 90

PARIS BEAUVAIS

B ELG R A D E C H I S I N AU D EB R EC EN G L A S G OW KOŠ I C E LO N D O N TA RG U M U R E S V I L N I US

ZARAGOZA BARCELONA GIRONA MADRID

BARCELONA PALMA DE MALLORCA

A L L D E S T I N AT I O N S 92 F RO M T H E A I R P O R T I N F O R M AT I O N , L IS T ED BY CO U N T RY

VALENCIA ALICANTE MALAGA

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TRONDHEIM

ÅLESUND

BERGEN TURKU OSLO SANDEFJORD TORP HAUGESUND STAVANGER

STOCKHOLM SKAVSTA

GOTHENBURG

KRISTIANSAND

RIGA

MOSCOW

MALMÖ VILNIUS

HAMBURG LÜBECK

GDANSK SZCZECIN

POZNAN

EINDHOVEN

WARSAW

DORTMUND ŁODZ

WROCŁAW

COLOGNE

LUBLIN

KATOWICE

BRUSSELS

KYIV

PRAGUE

FRANKFURT HAHN

LVIV

BRNO

KOŠICE

MEMMINGEN/MUNICH WEST BASEL-MULHOUSE

DONETSK

VENICE TREVISO

TIMISOARA BELGRADE TUZLA

BOLOGNA

GRENOBLE

SPLIT

PISA

TARGU MURES

ARAD

MILAN-BERGAMO

CRAIOVA

PERUGIA

SOFIA

ROME FIUMICINO

BUCHAREST SIMFEROPOL VARNA BOURGAS

KUTAISI

SKOPJE

ROME CIAMPINO ALGHERO

CHISINAU CLUJ-NAPOCA

LJUBLJANA

MILAN-MALPENSA

CUNEO/TURIN

DEBRECEN

BUDAPEST

VERONA

GENEVA

KHARKIV

NAPLES

ISTANBUL

BARI

BAKU

CORFU

ANTALYA

ZAKYNTHOS CATANIA RHODES

MALTA

HERAKLION (CRETE)

LARNACA

TEL AVIV DUBAI

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AUTUMN GUIDES

Belgrade, Serbia TOUCH DOWN Looking to orientate yourself? Head straight Republic Square in Stari Grad. This is the location of some of Belgrade’s most famous buildings, including the National Museum and the opulent National Theatre. It’s also a great place to begin a tour of Belgrade’s famous fortress, shops, museums and celebrated riverside cafés and bars. GET OUT You must visit Belgrade’s iconic Fortress, which has stood protecting the city since the 1st century AD. Located near the zoo, it provides magnificent panoramic views of the city including picturesque Kalemegdan Park and the confluence of the Sava River and the Danube.

EAT WELL Lively cafés and restaurants line the streets of the popular bohemian neighbourhood Skadarlija, one of the most famous streets in Belgrade, located less than 300m from central Belgrade. Tucked away in central Belgrade, Daco Restaurant (49 Patrisa Lumumbe Street) provides excellent Serbian cuisine, a beautiful garden and a spacious interior. DRINK UP Available in a wide selection of flavours, such as quince, pear, plum (slivovitz), or honey, Rakija is a Balkan delicacy and a must for any visitor. Try it for yourself at Belgrade’s Rakia Bar (5 Dobračina Street, rakiabar. com). And if you’re in town in

December, don’t miss the lively Rakija Festival from 14 to 15 December. rakijafest.com GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 99 for details. Words by Sophie Bichener

YOU MUST SAMPLE... Sir (cottage cheese) Kajmak (clotted cream) Rakija (brandy) Mešano meso (mixed grill) Cevapčići (grilled mincemeat dish)

Chișinău, Moldova TOUCH DOWN Chişina˘u is one of Europe’s greenest cities, and it takes pride in keeping its parks looking green and lush. We say head straight for one of its beautiful parks, any of the ones scattered around the city are

worth a visit for a leisurely stroll. Stefan cel Mare Park is the most popular with the locals, thanks to its many fountains and places to sit and relax. The park even has free Wi-Fi, so you can sit down, chill out and plan your next move.

GET OUT Moldovan wines were cultivated 5,000 years ago and by the 3rd century BC, wine trade routes to Greece and Rome were well established. Today, wine tours around the best bars in Chişina˘u provide an innovative way to sample some of the finest wines in Eastern Europe, while seeing the delights of the picturesque city. Or head a few kilometres out of town to Milestii Mici or Cricova wineries. EAT WELL Away from the city centre, after touring the lakes of Rose Valley Park, settle down for traditional Moldovan cuisine at one of the many restaurants lining the park. Alternatively, located right in the city centre is Cafe Café (+373 79 27 2000), a friendly thriving restaurant providing Chişina˘u’s

finest zeama (a traditional Moldovan chicken broth). DRINK UP To complement Chişina˘u’s annual wine festival (13-14 October), visit Symposium Wine Bar on 31 August 1989 Street (+373 22 21 1317), which provides and excellent selection of some of the tastiest wines this mighty wine producing nation has to offer. GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 96 for details. Words by Sophie Bichener

CHISINAU OPERA Founded in the mid-1940s, Moldova’s national opera house also hosts a number of ballets and live musical performances. nationalopera.md

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AUTUMN GUIDES

Debrecen, Hungary TOUCH DOWN Debrecen comes into its own after October, when the students are back in force and venues throw open their doors for live gigs, shows and exhibitions. Kicking things off in style is the fortnight-long Debrecen Autumn Festival of jazz, pop, art and theatre, 15-30 October. eng.debrecen.hu/city/culture GET OUT Home of heavy metal, Debrecen is where to go if you want your music loud. After a recent change of management and paint job, Kaptár Club on Domb utca will be staging Full of Anger on 12 October, a one-night death metal festival featuring Ukraine’s Castrum and Slovakia’s Abstract, followed on 31 October by

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Hungary’s answer to Iron Maiden, tribute band Iron Maidnem (‘Iron Almost’). debrock.hu EAT WELL For the best contemporary meal in town, head for IKON, chef Péter Pataky’s downtown lounge and restaurant. Though the garden may shut as autumn turns to winter, you’ll still dine in attractive surroundings, tucking into rabbit ragout with home-made tagliatelle (2,500 Hungarian forints, or €8) or the signature IKON burger with home-made chips (2,500 forints). The three-course Sunday lunch is recommended. ikonrestaurant.hu DRINK UP Rocking all week till midnight, Roncsbár offers regular live music, decent Magyar pub grub

and quality Rézangyal brandies in sundry flavours. It’s all friendly and affordable. roncsbar.hu GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 94 for details. Words by Peterjon Cresswell

DID YOU KNOW? Debrecen, Hungary’s second city, was twice the country’s capital, once during the Revolution of 1848 and again from 1944 to 45.

18/09/2013 14:16

WINTER SUPPLEMENT

CHRISTMAS MARKETS IN CENTRAL AND EASTERN EUROPE

P L A N YO U R W I N T E R H O L I D AY IN POLAND

EXPLORING L I T H U A N I A’ S AMBER ROAD

WINTER IN EASTERN EUROPE

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WINTER SUPPLEMENT

CHRISTMAS CR ACKERS Head to one of these wonderful Christmas markets, where the delicious food, carols and traditional crafts at bargain prices are sure to put you in a festive mood

SIBIU Romania’s largest Christmas market takes place in the grand surroundings of Sibiu’s Large Square, in the middle of the Old Town. A popular tourist haunt all through the year, it’s at its most magical in the coming months, when it puts on its winter coat and welcomes 60 of the country’s finest craftsmen to its streets. From homemade sweets to traditional Romanian products, there’s a huge choice of original present ideas certain to leave you full of holiday cheer. Here, tradition and culture blend perfectly with the bright lights of the festive season, with a huge turnout guaranteed for carolling and special concerts. And while you’re singing along, there’s plenty for your kids to do, such as the opportunity to meet Santa and busy themselves in his workshop. A curtain of lights covers the entire market – a sight to warm the heart of even the biggest Scrooge – under which you can ice skate, ride a pony or just get all your Christmas shopping out of the way. One of Transylvania’s most beautiful cities, Sibiu offers plenty for visitors to explore and do, as well as a wide range of comfortable accommodation options.

christmasmarket.ro

T I M I S OA R A On 1 December, Timişoara’s seventh Christmas market kicks off in grand style with the turning on of its Christmas lights. For a month afterwards, more than 50 stands will be placed around Victory Square, Mărăşeşti Street and Huniade Square, offering such delights as handmade Christmas ornaments, woollen products and traditional Romanian food including grilled sausages, pork specialities (tobă, jumări and şuncă de casă), pancakes and gingerbread. And when you’re done with all your shopping, you can relax with a delicious glass of mulled wine or plum brandy and listen to some beautiful Romanian carols. The festivities aren’t just aimed at adults, however. Children can visit Santa’s workshop and help his elves with the gifts, see his reindeer and even take a ride in his sleigh, while they can also watch a re-enactment of the Christmas miracle. The month ends with a huge celebration, with traditional concerts at the Opera and Philharmonic Halls, live carols and dazzling fireworks in Victory Square, as everybody comes together to enjoy the start of the New Year.

primariatm.ro

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WINTER SUPPLEMENT

P R AG U E The holidays are the most magical time of the year, and what better city to celebrate them in than Prague, with its majestic spires, lamp-lit cobbled lanes and historical baroque squares? From the beginning of Advent, the holiday spirit is in full force throughout Prague. The entire city centre comes alive with Christmas lights, and colourful wooden stalls deck out the city’s main thoroughfares, with the largest and most popular gatherings in the Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square. The former of these is home to the country’s largest Christmas tree, which is lit in a special ceremony with live music and entertainment on the first Saturday of Advent. Tyn Church forms an unforgettable backdrop to the scene, while the scent of hot mulled wine and cinnamon pastries draws onlookers to the stalls, where local artisans sell traditional handicrafts such as hand-blown glass ornaments, wrought-iron decorations, handmade lace and gingerbread hearts. Many churches open their doors for carol concerts and performances, such as Christmas Mass by Jakub Jan Ryba. These form just part of the rich cultural programme that marks Christmas time in the Golden City, with a wealth of events taking place every day in December.

praguewelcome.com

P OZ N A N The best ice sculptors from around the world descend on Poznań every Christmas season for one of its most unusual attractions: the city’s International Ice Sculpture Festival, held this year from 14-15 December. The largest of its kind in Europe, the festival features top artists competing against each other in a variety of breathtaking disciplines, such as working against a time limit to carve a given design, and working in teams to create stunning constructions on a subject of their choosing. The festival’s unique atmosphere is in no small part down to the charm of the Old Market Square in which it is held. Here, it takes place alongside the city’s bustling Christmas market – Poznań Bethlehem – which extends from 30 November to 22 December. Lit up by an array of beautiful illuminations, and accompanied by a number of artistic shows and carol performances, hordes of local traders man stalls selling everything from Christmas tree decorations to delicious food and traditional handcrafted goods – making this the perfect place to catch up on any last-minute Christmas shopping!

poznan.travel

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WINTER SUPPLEMENT

WINTER ESCAPES It may be cold outside but that’s no excuse for staying at home! Wrap up warm and explore eastern Europe’s fab spas, historical cities and luxurious ski resorts

ALBA IULIA Just as in fashion they talk of a “must-have”, in tourism there’s such a thing as a “must-see”. One such destination is Romania’s Alba Iulia. This is the only place where you can visit three fortifications – Roman, Medieval and Vauban – built one above the other, and where the oldest gothic cathedral in Transylvania sits side-by-side with the majestic Orthodox Coronation Cathedral. Bearing deep roots throughout history, the “other capital of Romania” (as Albia Iulia is also known) doesn’t wait locked in the past but with a medley of cultural events which bring the large square in the citadel to life. There are dedicated festivals for films; folk music; rock; theatre; jazz; books; and traditional handicrafts, art and cuisine; which are complemented in the summer by weekly performances and reenactments bringing the Dacians, Romans and other historical figures to life. Indeed, visit Alba Iulia and you will be greeted with honours and cannon volleys by the citadel guards! Alba Iulia might be the most interesting capital you’ve never heard of. Named as a European Destination of Excellence and recognised by the Europa Nostra organization for the high quality of its heritage protection, a visit here is compulsory for any inquisitive tourist.

turism.apulum.ro

LUXURY LITHUANIAN RESORT Part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World brand, IDW Esperanza Resort is a real gem in a fabulous location. Located by a beautiful lake, surrounded by 27 acres of breathtaking forests, a striking building made from stone and Canadian timber forms the centrepiece of this elegant boutique hotel. Comfortable and eco-friendly, and only a short distance from the capital Vilnius, the resort is the perfect spot from which to discover the natural beauty of Lithuania. A huge variety of activities are on hand all year round, including the chance to feast on gourmet cuisine, relax in the spa and unwind on the private beach, pool and tennis courts. Some 34 guest rooms blend discrete elegance with the latest modern conveniences, creating a welcoming ambience and a sense of genuine luxury that makes for a truly delightful stay. A winter visit can be especially exciting, when the pristine white snow produces conditions ideal for ice-fishing, snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. And, after using all that energy in the fresh outdoors, there’s no better way to finish the day than with a visit to the Russian sauna and a relaxing massage. The hotel offers a complimentary transfer service from Vilnius Airport.

idwesperanzaresort.com

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WINTER SUPPLEMENT

M AV R O R O Just one hour’s drive from the capital city Skopje, in western Macedonia, you’ll find Mavrovo, one of Europe’s most beautiful mountain valleys. Sheltered by the high hills of Mount Korab, its breathtaking features include the pristine waters of Lake Mavrovo and the towering Mount Bistra. Mysterious and romantic, the region has been well known for centuries for the warm hospitality of its inns, and this fame continues today through the Zare Lazarevski ski resort. Three chair lifts and 11 ski lifts extend over a total of 5,700m, able to carry as many as 11,100 people per hour. With this infrastructure, it’s possible to ski altitudes between 1,255m and 1,860m – even at night, between 7pm and midnight. The Bistra Hotel, Hotel Sport and Hotel Lodge, all located within the Mavrovo National Park, make up the three most prominent hotels serving the resort. With 87 rooms, 238 beds, spa centres, congress facilities and a range of international and traditional restaurants – not to mention the natural beauty and relaxation resources – the hotels are perfectly set up for a pleasant stay all year round.

bistra.com, zarelaz.com

S LO V EN I A N A L P S The white landscapes of the Slovenian Alps may appear to have come straight from a fairy tale, but they also the offer the potential for countless adventures. The region has some serious sporting pedigree, already known all over the world for its annual World Cups in men’s slalom and giant slalom, Planica ski-jumping and the biathlon World Cup in Pokljuka. Skiers and snowboarders will immediately find themselves at home on the snow-covered slopes, while there’s plenty for everyone else to do on the well-kept cross-country tracks and thrilling toboggan runs. And for those that seek a more unique experience, climbing a frozen waterfall, day-and-night snowshoeing and hiking with torches all make for an unforgettable expedition. There are numerous accommodation possibilities, from hotels to private lodgings in private rooms and apartments. A rich selection of culinary specialities are available in the local family inns, while specialised inns and restaurants offer a taste of Slovenia, together with exquisite Slovenian wines and spirits. Various wellness programmes are also on hand to help you relax after a long day’s skiing.

slovenian-alps.com

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W I N T E R s u p p l e m ent

The country where the Amber Road starts A year ago, they began creating an international route aimed at bringing together the countries of all continents, and offering an intriguing exploration for the mineral called Baltic gold. Lithuania is the country where you should begin this unique journey full of adventure and pleasure, opening the door to the magical world of amber

main: amber washed ashore. right: a dress made from tens of thousands of pieces of amber. It took a year to create and weighs 2.5 kg. inset: Trapped inside amber you can find Seeds of plants, insects and even lizards.

ccording to scientists, amber was made of pine resin that dribbled and dropped into the soil 50 million years ago, and then carried along by fast-flowing rivers into the Baltic Sea. Left on the sea bed for millennia, this resin cured and took on a variety of shapes and colours. Some of the pieces trapped seeds, small insects and even

reptiles. To this day, the surviving inclusions preserved within the amber reveal ancient secrets to scientists. Romantics love the legend about the magnificent Amber Palace nearby the seabed and its inhabitants – the goddess Jūratė, and her love for Kastytis, a poor fisherman. The forbidden passion of the goddess and the mortal

angered Perkūnas, the main thunder god, so much that he destroyed the amber castle, killed Kastytis and condemned Jūratė to eternal lamentation. Since then, restlessly labouring, the sea continues to wash small pieces of amber ashore. The larger pieces are fragments of the destroyed palace. The smaller ones are Juratė’s tears, bright and pure as her tragic love.

WINTER SUPPLEMENT

Elixir of youth Amber is very important in Lithuania and you will see it everywhere. So, those of you who decide to go along the Amber Road should use a virtual map of Lithuania to lead you through as many as 50 places located throughout the country – museums, galleries, cosmetics containing amber, spas, jewellery shops, including designer boutiques and restaurants offering drinks and meals made with amber. The Amber Road route starts in the Lithuanian capital city of Vilnius. Here you will find many places where you can become acquainted with amber and experience its effects. For those who have time restrictions, we offer a two and a half hour-long “Amber Islands in Vilnius” tour with a professional guide. You will visit an amber workshop, a museum and several small shops that provide unique experiences in handling, tasting and smelling amber along with adorning yourself with it. You can also sip some amber water during a moment of relaxation. In addition, you can see with your own eyes how this mineral is processed, and even try to make a piece of jewellery for yourself. Moreover, Lithuania has over 10 spas offering body treatments and facials with amber sand, amber oil, amber soap, amber foam and amber massagers. For example, just a few steps away from the busy central street of Vilnius in a quiet part of the city, you will find a VIP rated spa where everything is suffused with the so-called Baltic gold: take a step, and your feet will be massaged by small amber pieces, while admiring the wall and ceiling decorations where as much as half a tonne of amber was used. It is the only place in the world where you can try out a special radiation energy therapy – Amber Relax Luxus. It is an infrared sauna where you only spend half an hour, but can use up 300 to 500 calories. Enjoy warming yourself up in the sauna, and then proceed to a special anti-aging beauty treatment with amber oil, amber balls and amber powder, which will energize your blood circulation and make your skin more supple and radiant. Equally striking is the effect of amber on your face. After only a single procedure, you will feel as if beauty professionals have taken you back in time, and you will definitely enjoy less wrinkles and firmer skin. Treats cancer and infertility Generally, amber is enjoyed by almost everyone in Lithuania. Even the most demanding gourmets will be pleasantly

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INTERESTING FAC TS In Lithuanian, the word ‘amber’ means ‘to protect’ or ‘to safeguard’, because this mineral has been used for making amulets. Near the Baltic coast there is the Gintarai (“Amber”) village where people settled at the beginning of the first millennium BC. The popular Lithuanian resort of Palanga has an Amber Museum in a mansion built in the end of the nineteenth century, boasting a collection of over 29,000 unique items. surprised once they taste traditional Lithuanian apple cheeses that are made with amber extracts, refresh themselves with amber tea, and pamper their palates with tasty amber caramel. Curious people should try sleeping on an amber-filled mattress. This Lithuanian discovery continues to excite scientists from Japan. Studies have shown that it not only provides a better sleeping experience, but amber also performs the function of acupressure and is comparable to an acupuncture treatment. In addition, amber is warmed up by the human body during the night, and evaporates, spreading its immunity enhancing vapours and extracts. If you suffer from heartburn, joint pain, headaches or a respiratory disease, take advantage of the wisdom of Lithuania’s ancestors – drink as little as 50 grams of amber brandy before a meal, and all of these ailments will go away in the blink of an eye. Over 250 different types of amber are known worldwide, but only the unique Baltic amber contains the same amino acids that are produced by the human body. This has allowed researchers to successfully use it in the development of drugs against cancer or in the treatment of gynaecological diseases and infertility. The artistic value of amber is also equally important. If you visit an amber shop even in the smallest of towns, you will not only find decorative bracelets, necklaces, cufflinks and smoking pipes, but even the most unexpected of items – paintings or maybe even trees, which have been adorned with thousands of bits of resin frozen in time.

Gintaras (the Lithuanian word for amber) is a very popular name in Lithuania. Lithuania is home to over 20,000 men and women with this name. To make a journey along the Amber Road more comfortable, they have created a modern website called www.lithuania.travel in five languages. You can also get this information by downloading a special application for smartphones. The initiative of the State Department of Tourism under the Ministry of Economy to combine the countries of all continents related with amber into the Amber Road is supported by the United Nations World Tourism Organization. Collar with amber perfectly protects dogs from fleas and mites.

20/09/2013 14:32

RDO Gorenjska

EXPERIENCE UNFORGETABLE WINTER IN SLOVENIAN ALPS!

Lake Bled

Kranjska Gora

Krvavec

www.slovenian-alps.com

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PROMOT ION

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20/09/2013 17:37

AUTUMN GUIDES

Glasgow, UK TOUCH DOWN Scotland’s largest city, Glasgow is home to a multitude of galleries and museums. If you want something a bit louder, head to King Tut’s. With live shows every night, this is an integral part of the Glasgow’s grassroots music scene. Spektor, the Rifles and Boy George are playing over the next two months. kingtuts.co.uk GET OUT For a change of pace, why not take a day trip to the legendary Loch Ness? From £42 (€50), a coach will take you through the countryside, before stopping at the supposed home of Nessie. Here you can take a cruise on the loch before being driven back through Glencoe

and the Highlands. (viator.com). For something in the city, try the City Chambers in George Square. The council headquarters is over 100 years old and is one of Glasgow's finest examples of 19th-century architecture. EAT WELL Wee Lochan on Crow Road is the best for local seafood fare. We recommend the Scottish crab spring rolls served with a cool chilli jam, followed by a dish of meaty monkfish accompanied by king prawns and a potato purée. an-lochan.com DRINK UP Hike over to The Ben Nevis, Argyle Street, and sample one of their 150 traditional whiskies. Get cosy in a corner

with a book or make a new friend in one of the locals. thebennevis.co.uk GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 100 for details. Words by Ben Thornton-Harwood

NECROPOLIS This traditional Victorian graveyard adjacent to Glasgow Cathedral is home to over 50,000 individuals and is one of the city’s spookier sites.

Košice, Slovakia TOUCH DOWN The largest city in eastern Slovakia and Europe’s current city of culture, take a stroll and gawk at the stunning Cathedral of St Elisabeth. It is Slovakia’s biggest church and a beautiful, if not brooding,

example of gothic architecture. For a different perspective of the town, you could try climbing the 60m-high northern tower. GET OUT For a unique look at the work of Andy Warhol, go to the Mihal

Gallery. The parents of the world’s most influential pop artist were born a short distance from the town, reflected in this fantastic gallery. Depicted are both Warhol’s life and works, including his unpublished print of Marilyn Monroe and a life-size statue of Warhol sat on his iconic Campbell’s soup can. mihalgallery.sk EAT WELL Home to one of the best pizzas in Košice, the Piano Café (Hlvana 92) is a modern brasserie in the very centre of town. There are three rooms to suit whatever your mood: the energetic cocktail bar, the upbeat jazz section and the calm piano lounge. Alternatively sip one of the house’s 130 cocktails and make the most of the autumn sunshine on the terrace. piano-cafe.sk

DRINK UP Why not soak up some comradeship, and (responsibly) chug a beer with the locals while watching their ice-hockey team, HC Košice? The three-time Slovak Extraliga champions face off at the Steel Aréna. Tickets are available at the Municipal Information Centre at 2 Hlavna (mickosice.sk) or online at ticketportal.sk GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 99 for details. Words by Ben Thornton-Harwood

CAPITAL OF CULTURE As Košice’s year in the limelight comes to a close, don’t miss the final few events, including Jazz FOR SAle, 2-16 November. kosice2013.sk

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AUTUMN GUIDES

London, UK TOUCH DOWN The Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition is back, and opens on 18 October at the National History Museum. Marvel at the rarely-seen wonder of nature in 100 photos, captured by both professional and amateur photographers. Until 23 March. nhm.ac.uk GET OUT Wrap out warm for fireworks on Guy Fawkes Night (or ‘Bonfire Night’) on 5 November. A British tradition, it dates back to 1605, when Guy Fawkes tried to blow up the Houses of Parliament. The Lord Mayor’s Fireworks on 9 November are considered the best in the capital. Stake out a spot on Victoria Embankment for fantastic views. lordmayorsshow.org

EAT WELL Paramount (pictured right) towers above the capital on the 32nd floor of the Centre Point building. Start with Cornish crab salad with grapefruit, cashews and avocado, follow with honey-glazed duck breast with pomegranate and pear and finish up with the sensational deconstructed carrot cake. Afterwards, walk up to the viewing deck to admire the 360-degree panoramic sights of the city, cocktail in hand. paramount.uk.net DRINK UP London Cocktail Week is 7–13 October (londoncocktailweek.com) with masterclasses, workshops, pop-up bars and 3,000 different cocktails! Missed out on the fun? Head to Dirty Martini on Covent Garden’s Piazza with a

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GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 100 for details. Words by Claire Martin

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THE MEANING OF LIFE Want to know how it all started? Find out about the Big Bang at an exhibition on CERN’S Large Hadron Collider from 13 November. sciencemuseum.org.uk

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mind-boggling selection of carefully muddled, mixed and shaken cocktails. dirtymartini.uk.com

ROMANIA

MOLDOVA BULGARIA SERBIA

AUSTRALIA +61 (0) 46 668 9930

Transport fees UK: 1.00 - 1.50 GBP/Kg. USA: 0.95 - 1.50 USD/lbs. Australia: 2.00 - 4.50 AUD/Kg.

18/09/2013 14:17

Skuteczne rozwiązywanie problemów w Europie Effective problem solving in Europe Jeżeli w związku z działalnością gospodarczą, pobytem lub nauką w innym państwie UE* napotkałeś na problemy związane m.in. z:

If you have experienced problems in connection with business activity, residence or study in another EU* Member State including, for example:

Uznawaniem kwalifikacji zawodowych Zezwoleniem na pobyt Zabezpieczeniem społecznym Kontrolą graniczną Dostępem produktów do rynku Dostępem do rynku usług Podatkami (VAT, akcyza) Swobodnym przepływem kapitału lub płatności

Recognition of professional qualifications Residence permits Social security Border controls Market access for products Market access for services Taxation (VAT, excise) Free movement of capital or payments

ZGŁOŚ SIĘ DO SOLVIT!

TURN TO SOLVIT!

Bezpłatny, nieformalny system SOLVIT zajmuje się rozwiązywaniem transgranicznych problemów wynikających z nieprawidłowego stosowania prawa UE przez organy administracji publicznej w państwach członkowskich UE*. * oraz w Islandii, Lichtensteinie i Norwegii

Free, informal SOLVIT system deals with solving cross-border problems caused by the misapplication of EU law by public authorities in EU Member States*.

Centrum SOLVIT Polska

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Ministerstwo Gospodarki Ministry of Economy Departament Spraw Europejskich European Affairs Department

* plus Norway, Lichtenstein and Iceland.

Plac Trzech Krzyży 3/5 00-507 Warszawa Tel.: +48 22 693 53 60 Fax: +48 22 693 40 80

E-mail: solvit@mg.gov.pl www.solvit.gov.pl

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AUTUMN GUIDES

Targu Mures, Romania TOUCH DOWN With a near equal Romanian and Hungarian population Targu Mures is almost a bilingual city. Take the 15-minute walk into town from the train station by walking about one kilometre straight up piatas Victoriei, Unirii and Trandafirilor, to find yourself in the main thoroughfare of the city. GET OUT Targu Mures is a city rich in history. Immerse yourself by visiting Teleki-Bolyai Library. It was founded at the end of the 18th century by Count Sámuel Teleki, chancellor of Transylvania, who established the library with some 40,000 of his own books. The library now

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contains a vast collection of manuscripts documenting Transylvanian history. telekiteka.ro EAT WELL With rustic surroundings, authentic Transylvanian food and an energetic atmosphere you’re unlikely to find anywhere else like the Laci Csarda at Strada Morii 27. This traditional Romanian and Hungarian restaurant is heaving with character; you might even be treated to some live music from a local Gypsy band. DRINK UP For a chilled-out vibe visit the Old City Cafe Lounge & Pub at Trandafirilor 43. After a relaunch in September they now have a fine range of imported European

beers and there is good pub grub if you’re feeling peckish. oldcitypub.ro GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 99 for details. Words by Ben Thornton-Harwood

PREFECTURE PALACE Look out for the Prefecture Palace’s 60m-high clock tower, once the city’s fire lookout tower. The gorgeous palace was also the City Hall for 55 years.

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AUTUMN GUIDES

Vilnius, Lithuania TOUCH DOWN Once you arrive in the charming capital of Lithuania, head straight to the Old Town. Vilnius’ Old Town is one of the largest surviving medieval quarters in Europe, full of traditional bars, restaurants and outstanding, varied architecture. GET OUT Gediminas Castle and its museum date back to the 13th century. The museum itself is well worth a look, but the big draw is the observation deck at the top of the tower. Yes, it’s a pretty steep walk up (alternatively you can take the funicular) but your efforts will be rewarded with a magnificent panorama of Vilnius. Time your walk for sunset for the best views.

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EAT WELL A Vilnius institution, it feels as if Amatininku Užeiga (The Craftsman’s Tavern) at Didžioji 19 has been around forever. Serving a mixture of traditional Lithuanian and international cuisine, expect to find this restaurant packed almost every night. DRINK UP Vilnius is home to a lively student population with no shortage of trendy bars and clubs for any willing revellers. Many of the best venues can be found on a stroll along the narrow winding streets and cosy courtyards surrounding the town centre. The busy Uzupio Kavine bar at Uz˘upio gatve˙ 2 is popular with locals

and has superb terrace views over the river for balmy nights. uzupiokavine.lt GETTING TO THE CENTRE See page 96 for details. Words by Sophie Bichener

BREAD AND SALT? Visitors are often presented bread and salt as a mark of hospitality. It’s an age-old tradition, and even given to married couples on their wedding day.

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FRO M T H E A I R P O R T I N FO R M AT I O N

Azerbaijan Dialling Code: +994 Currency: Manat (AZN)

BAKU Bus 116 runs every 30 minutes, beginning from early in the morning until late at night. The bus leaves from outside the airport building and terminates at S. Vurgun park on 28 May Street. The journey takes approximately 30-40 minutes. The fare is 30 qapik (€0.30).

Belgium Dialling Code: +32 Currency: Euro (€)

BRUSSELS In Brussels we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport (Charleroi South) and any address within Brussels. Tickets are €30 (€60 return).

BosniaHerzegovina

to Bourgas city centre. A taxi will cost 20 lev (€10) and take 15 minutes. SOFIA We provide a personalised taxi service between the airport and any address within Sofia city centre. It costs €16 (€32 return) per car. VARNA The bus terminal is located just outside Terminal 1. Take bus 409 to Varna city centre. Tickets cost 1 lev (€0.50). A taxi into Varna is cost around 15 lev (€7.50).

Croatia Dialling Code: +385 Currency: Kuna (HRK)

SPLIT The airport is 20km from Split. Take bus 37 to the city centre, which costs 20 kuna (€2.60), or a shuttle bus for 30 kuna (€4). A local taxi costs around 280-300 kuna (€40).

Cyprus Dialling Code: +357 Currency: Euro (€)

LARNACA The Limassol Airport Express takes you to the centre of Larnaca. Tickets cost €9; €4 for children. A taxi is €10-12. The journey takes around 40 minutes.

Czech Republic

city centre, a distance of 17km. Tickets: €10.50 (€21 return).

Finland Dialling Code: +358 Currency: Euro (€)

TURKU Take bus 1 to the town centre. Tickets: €2.50. A taxi is €20.

France Dialling Code: +33 Currency: Euro (€)

Dialling Code: +420 Currency: Koruna (CZK)

BRNO Buses 76 and 89 go to Brno’s main bus station, taking 20 minutes. Tickets: 25 koruna (€1). A taxi is around 300 koruna (€11.50). PRAGUE In Prague we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address in the

GRENOBLE Catch the Altitude line bus from Grenoble Isère to the city centre. Tickets: €12.50 single. A taxi is around €80. PARIS In Paris we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport (Beauvais) and any address within Paris city centre, around 80km away. Tickets: €31 (€62 return). THE GRAND PLACE IN BRUSSELS

Dialling Code: +387 Currency: Convertable Mark (BAM)

TUZLA The airport is a 15km ride from Tuzla city centre. The easiest way to get there is with a taxi from the airport, for €8-10.

Bulgaria Dialling Code: +359 Currency: Lev (BGN)

BOURGAS Take bus 15 from the airport

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POSTOJNSKA JAMA

CAVE GROTTE HĂ&#x2013;HLE

Explore the magnificent underworld of Slovenia Postojna Cave is the only cave in the world where you can experience an exciting train ride through a fantastic underground landscape. Riding under magniďŹ cent stalactites hanging down like chandeliers is an experience you will never forget.

www.postojnska-jama.eu

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Its 21 km maze of tunnels, galleries and halls, astonishing diversity of limestone sculptures have already enchanted 35 million visitors from all over the world.

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FRO M T H E A I R P O R T I N FO R M AT I O N

Georgia Dialling Code: +995 Currency: Lari (GEL)

KUTAISI The airport is located 14km outside Kutaisi. The best way to get into town is by taxi. The journey takes roughly 25 minutes and costs around 25 lari (€11.40)

Germany Dialling Code: +49 Currency: Euro (€)

COLOGNE Line 13 S-Bahn trains leave for Cologne every 20 minutes. Tickets: €2.60. A taxi costs around €30. The airport is 15km from Colgone. DORTMUND The Airport Express bus connects to the Hauptbahnhof in 25 minutes; tickets cost €7. A taxi from Arrivals is about €22. FRANKFURT HAHN Buses to Frankfurt’s main train station leave from outside Terminal 2. Tickets are €14. HAMBURG LÜBECK A shuttle bus to Hamburg’s main station meets every flight. Find it outside Arrivals. It’s a 55-minute journey into Hamburg, which is 54km away, and tickets cost €10. MEMMINGEN/ MUNICH WEST Memmingen is 4.5km from the airport. Take bus 2 or 810/811 to Memmingen train station. Tickets cost €3. The cheapest and fastest way to Munich is to book the Allgäu Airport Express online before departure; tickets cost €15. aaexpress.de

Greece Dialling Code: +30 Currency: Euro (€)

CORFU Take bus 5 or 6 outside the airport to Corfu Town or hop in a taxi. The fare is €12 to Corfu Town. The journey is 3km. HERAKLION (CRETE) Shuttle buses run every 10 minutes to Heraklion, taking 20 minutes. Tickets: €1.10. A local taxi is €14 to the city centre. RHODES Buses regularly leave for the main town, 13km away. The bus stop is between the old and new terminal, tickets €2.30. A taxi to Rhodes town costs €14. THESSALONIKI Bus 78 goes to the city centre and takes 45 minutes. Tickets: €0.60. A taxi is about €15 into the centre of Thessaloniki, which is 15km away. ZAKYNTHOS A local taxi from the airport to Zakynthos Town costs €10.

Hungary Dialling Code: +36 Currency: Forint (HUF)

BUDAPEST We provide a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport (at Ferihegy 2, which means ‘Terminal 2’) and Budapest city centre (Deák Ferenc square). Tickets: €5 (€10 return). DEBRECEN We provide a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport and the city centre. Tickets: €2 (€4 return).

Ireland Dialling Code: +353 Currency: Euro (€)

CORK Bus Éireann Air Coaches depart from outside Arrivals. It’s €4.50 single (€7.70 return). A taxi costs €10-15, it can be found outside the Arrivals forecourt. Cork Airport is just 8km from the city centre.

Israel Dialling Code: +972 Currency: New shekel (ILS)

TEL AVIV Trains run from Terminal 3 to Tel Aviv city centre, 19km away, every 20-30 minutes. Tickets are 12 shekels (€2.50).

Italy Dialling Code: +39 Currency: Euro (€)

ALGHERO Local buses run to the city centre, 10km away. Tickets: €0.70. A taxi costs €30. BARI Bus 16 goes to Bari centre, which is 8km from the airport. Tickets: €0.90. A taxi costs €25. CATANIA The Alibus 457 leaves every 20 minutes, and takes 20 minutes to get to the city centre. Tickets: €0.80. A taxi costs around €20. FORLÌ/BOLOGNA The bus to Forlì meets flight arrivals. Tickets cost €3.50. A taxi into Forlì is €13.

MILAN In Milan we provide a pointto-point bus transfer between the airport (Bergamo) and city centre. Tickets: €7 (€14 return). NAPLES The ANM Alibus shuttle leaves from Arrivals every 20 minutes. It stops at Central Station in Piazza Garibaldi and Molo Beverello Port. Tickets: €4. A taxi costs €25. PERUGIA Shuttle bus ACAP-SULGA goes into Perugia, 12km away. Tickets cost €8. PISA Yellow CPT buses go to the centre, which is one kilometre away. Route 3 stops at Pisa Centrale. Tickets: €1.10. A taxi costs about €10. ROME From Ciampino airport we provide a low-cost bus transfer to Termini station in Rome city centre. Tickets are €6 (€12 return). From Fiumicino airport we offer a low-cost bus transfer, for €8.50 (€17 return), or opt for our shuttle bus transfer to any address in Rome for €18 (€36 return). TURIN Trains leave to GTT Dora Railway Station every 30 minutes. Tickets: €3.70. A taxi to Turin is around €40. VENICE We provide a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport (Treviso), which is 30km from Venice, and the centre (Piazzale Roma). Tickets cost €10 (€20 return). VERONA The Aerobus leaves for the city centre, which is 5km away, every 20 minutes. Tickets: €6. A taxi should cost €25.

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Apartments

Restaurant

Liquors

Seven magic apartments at the heart of Gdańsk.

Exquisite cuisine with the best steaks in town.

Traditional Gdańsk beverages - try and buy.

www.youtube.com/kamienicagoldwasser e.com/k kamienicag goldw dwas assse ser Kamienica K Ka ami mien ien eeni nic ica Goldwasser, Gold G Go old ldwa wass wa sser er, ul. Długie u l. D Dł ługg ie i Pobrzeże Pob obrz obr rrzzeeż eże ż e 22 22 , Gdańsk Gd dań da a ńs ańs ń sk ńsk tel. tel. el 58 58 301 301 888 78 30 78 kamienica@goldwasser.pl kaamien k miien enic eni ica@ ica@ ic a@g @go gold gold ldw dwa wass wass sser ser er.p r.p .pl pl

w w w.goldwasser.p www.goldwasser.pl .pl

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FRO M T H E A I R P O R T I N FO R M AT I O N

Latvia Dialling Code: +371 Currency: Lats (Ls)

Moldova Dialling Code: +373 Currency: Moldovian Ieu (MDL)

HAUGESUND The Flybusse bus reaches Haugesund's city centre in roughly 20-30 minutes. Tickets: 70 kroner. A taxi to the centre is around 90 kroner (€12).

RIGA Bus 22 takes about 30 minutes to get to Riga's city centre. A one-way ticket from the driver is 0.70 lats (€1) – at the airport information desk ‘Welcome to Riga’ it’s just 0.50 lats.

CHISINAU The Express 'A' bus runs from the airport to Chisinau city every 40 minutes, from 7am-7pm. Tickets costs 3 leu. A taxi to the centre costs 80 leu.

KRISTIANSAND Take the Flybus to Kristiansand city centre. The journey takes 25 minutes. Tickets: 100 kroner (€13). A taxi to the city centre costs about 250 kroner (€33).

Lithuania

Netherlands

STAVANGER The Flybuss express takes 20-30 minutes to get to Stavanger city centre. Tickets: 100 kroner (€13). A taxi to the centre costs about 400 kroner (€53).

Dialling Code: +370 Currency: Litas (LTL)

VILNIUS We provide two types of airport transfer, a low-cost transfer between the airport and Vilnius city centre, €3.50 (€7 return) and a personalised taxi to any address within the city centre for €15 (€30 return) per car.

Macedonia Dialling Code: +389 Currency: Denar (MKD) SKOPJE In Skopje we provide a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport and Skopje city centre. Tickets: €3 (€6 return).

Malta Dialling Code: +356 Currency: Euro (€) MALTA Taxis are available outside the terminal 24 hours a day. A taxi to Valetta will cost you €15; for Mdina it's €20 and St Julians is around €20.

Dialling Code: +31 Currency: Euro (€)

EINDHOVEN In Eindhoven we provide three types of airport transfers: a point-to-point bus transfer between Eindhoven Airport and Amsterdam city centre (tickets: €24 single; €40 return), a point-to-point bus transfer between Eindhoven Airport and Utrecht, Transferium Westraven (tickets: €17 single; €30 return), and a point-to-point bus transfer between Eindhoven Airport and Den Bosch, Transferium Pettelaarpark (tickets: €10 single; €18 return).

Norway

OSLO SANDEFJORD TORP Take a shuttle bus to the station, then a train to Oslo, taking 1hr 48 minutes. Tickets: 245 kroner (€32). Or get the Torp Express bus, 220 kroner (€29). TRONDHEIM Take the train from Værnes station to Trondheim, 35km away. It takes 40 minutes. Tickets: 68 kroner (€9).

Poland Dialling Code: +48 Currency: Złoty (PLN)

Dialling Code: +47 Currency: Kroner (NOK)

ÅLESUND The airport bus reaches the city centre in 25 minutes. Tickets: 80 kroner (€10). A taxi into Alesund should cost around 340 kroner (€42). BERGEN The Flybussbergen is an express bus to the city centre Tickets: 70 kroner (€8.70).

GDANSK We provide three types of airport transfers: a point-to-point bus transfer between the airport and Gdansk city centre (tickets: €4 single; €8 return), a shuttle bus transfer between Gdansk Airport and any address in Gdansk (tickets: €9 single; €18 return) and a point-to-point bus transfer between Gdansk Airport and Slupsk Bus Station (tickets: €13 single; €24 return).

ŁÓDZ The city centre is 5km away. Take bus 55 to Piotrkowska Street. Tickets are 3 złoty (€0.70). Bus 65 goes to the train and bus station, Łódz Kaliska. A taxi should be 25-30 złoty (€7) to the city centre. LUBLIN The airport is 10km from the city. Take a train from the airport terminal to the main station. It should take 15 minutes and costs 5.60 złoty (€1.30). Then take 150 trolley bus or 13 regular bus for three stops, for 2.80 złoty (€0.60). KATOWICE We provide two point-topoint transfers, one between the airport and Katowice city centre, for €6 single (€12 return), and one between Katowice Airport and Krakow city centre, for €13 single (€26 return). POZNAN Take an Express Line bus to the Central Railway Station; it takes 20 minutes. Or 59 bus or 48 bus to the city centre (taking 30 minutes). Night bus 242 runs from midnight to 4am. You can buy tickets from the newspaper stands in Arrivals. WARSAW In Warsaw Chopin we provide a personalised WIZZ taxi service between the airport and any address within Warsaw city. The cost is €20 one way or €40 return per car. WROCŁAW From Copernicus Airport Wrocław, get bus 406, which leaves every 20 minutes, and takes that amount of time to get to the Central Railway Station. It’ll cost you 2 złoty (€0.50).

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FRO M T H E A I R P O R T I N FO R M AT I O N

Romania Dialling Code: +40 Currency: Leu (RON)

ARAD Take a taxi into Arad, 4km away. It should cost 12 leu (€2.80). BUCHAREST We provide two types of airport transfers; a shuttle bus transfer – tickets: €10 (€20 return) – and a personalised taxi to any address in the city centre, at €20 (€40 return) per car. CLUJ-NAPOCA In Cluj-Napoca we provide a personalised taxi service between the airport and any address within Cluj-Napoca city centre. It will cost you €15 one-way (€30 return) per car. CRAIOVA Bus 9 runs from the airport to Piata Centrala and Universitate every half-hour from 5.30am to 9.30pm. It's 2 leu (€0.40) one way. A taxi should be €3-5. TIMISOARA Express bus 4 connects the airport to the city centre. Tickets cost 2.50 leu (€0.60).

A taxi into the centre of Moscow costs RUB1200 (€27).

outside the terminal, starting at €10, taking 10 minutes.

within Barcelona city centre. Tickets: €18 (€36 return).

Serbia

Slovenia

MADRID In Madrid we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address within Madrid city centre. Tickets: €18 (€36 return).

Dialling Code: +381 Currency: Dinar (RSD)

BELGRADE We provide two types of airport transfers: a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address in the city centre, tickets €8.50 (€14 return), and a shuttle bus transfer between Belgrade airport and any address within Nis, tickets are €28 (€56 return).

Slovakia Dialling Code: +421 Currency: Euro (€)

KOŠICE Košice Airport is about 8km from the city centre. Take bus 23, the journey takes about 20 minutes. Or pick up a cab

Dialling Code: +386 Currency: Euro (€)

LJUBLJANA It takes 25 minutes to get into the city by taxi (€35-45) or the shuttle bus (€5-9). The city bus hourly runs, tickets €4.10.

MALAGA The A Express Line connects the city centre with the airport. Tickets cost €2. A taxi into the city centre costs about €20.

Spain

PALMA DE MALLORCA Route 1 leaves for central Palma every 15 minutes. Tickets: €2.50. A taxi costs €20.

Dialling Code: +34 Currency: Euro (€)

ALICANTE Bus route C-6 runs from the airport to the centre of Alicante every 20 minutes. Tickets: €2.70. A taxi costs €20. BARCELONA In Barcelona we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address

VALENCIA Metro lines 3 and 5 run straight to the centre (Colón) and train station (Xativa). Tickets from €1.50. A taxi to Valencia costs around €20. ZARAGOZA A bus runs between the airport and Paseo Maria Agustín in Zaragoza. Tickets: €1.85. A taxi should cost €15-20.

BARCELONA’S COLOURFUL PARK GÜELL

TARGU MURES In Targu Mures we provide a shuttle bus transfer between the airport and any address within Targu Mures city centre. Tickets cost €8 single (€16 return).

Russia Dialling Code: +354 Currency: Ruble (RUB)

MOSCOW Catch the Aeroexpress train from the airport to Moscow's Paveletsky Rail Terminal. Tickets cost RUB320 (€7.25) one way.

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FRO M T H E A I R P O R T I N FO R M AT I O N

Sweden Dialling Code: +46 Currency: Krona (SEK) GOTHENBURG Flygbussarna buses depart every half-hour, 4am-11pm, for 150 Swedish kronor (€17.50) return. A taxi is 350 kronor (€40). MALMÖ We provide a bus transfer between Malmö airport and Copenhagen Central Station. Tickets: €20 (€40 return). STOCKHOLM SKAVSTA Take the Flygbussarna bus to Stockholm. Tickets: 129 kronor. A taxi from the airport costs 1,400 kronor (€15).

ISTANBUL Havas buses run to Taksim Square, for 1.50 lira (€0.60). A taxi is 120 lira (€48).

go from Doncaster to Sheffield every 15 minutes. A taxi to Doncaster is around £20 (€23); £45 (€52) to Sheffield.

UAE

GLASGOW The First Bus airport shuttle service stops outside Glasgow Airport, Waterloo Street, Queen Street and Buchanan Bus Station. Tickets: £5 (€5.80). A taxi is around £25 (€29).

Dialling Code: +971 Currency: Dirham (AED)

DUBAI In Dubai we provide a shuttle bus transfer between Dubai World Central Airport and any address within Dubai (tickets: €30 single; €58 return) and a shuttle bus transfer between Dubai World Central Airport and any address within Abu Dhabi (Tickets: €52 single; €98 return).

Switzerland UK Dialling Code: +44 Dialling Code: +41 Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF)

BASEL EuroAirport is a binational airport. Exit through Swiss customs. Bus 50 goes to Basel Railway Station, and costs 4.20 Swiss francs (€3.60). A taxi is 40-50 Swiss francs (up to €40).

Currency: Pound (£)

DONCASTER SHEFFIELD Bus 91 runs to Doncaster and National Express train services

LIVERPOOL Arriva’s Airlink 500 goes to the city centre. Tickets cost £2.80 (€3.30). A taxi costs £15 (€18). LONDON Purchase a First Capital Connect train ticket to central London from the WIZZ Boutique on page 38. The journey takes 40 minutes into St Pancras International Station. Tickets: €17 (€30 return) – the price includes a bus transfer to Luton train station. We also provide a bus transfer between London Luton Airport and Victoria Station in cooperation with Green Line. Tickets: €11.50 one-way (€18 return).

Ukraine Dialling Code: +380 Currency: Hryvnia (UAH)

DONETSK Bus 5 goes to the centre. Tickets: 2 hryvnia. Taxis are easy to find outside the airport. KHARKIV Take bus 5 or 115 to the centre of Kharkiv. Taxis cost 100 hryvnia (€9.50). KYIV Take mini-buses and trolley bus 22 (in front of Terminal B) to the centre is 1.5 to 3 hryvnia. A taxi is 120 hryvnia (€11.50). LVIV Get to the centre via public transport (95 mini-bus and 9 trolley bus services), or take a taxi for 100 hryvnia (€9.50). SIMFEROPOL You can take bus 49, 98, 100 or 115 into Simferopol.

THE BRUNSWICK MONUMENT IN GENEVA

GENEVA Take a free Unireso ticket in the Arrivals hall, valid for 80 minutes on all public transport. The train into Geneva-Cornavin station takes six minutes. A taxi to Geneva should cost around 30-35 Swiss francs (€24-28).

Turkey Dialling Code: +90 Currency: Lira (TRY) ANTALYA Take bus 202 to the city centre. A ticket is about 4 lira (€1.60). A taxi is roughly 64 lira (€25).

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OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2013 WIZZ TOURS WIZZ MAGAZINE

S r TgIePs frookming fo R a l E S k e o A Y I NhGotel paat cyouâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;r D I F h L R and s w H O O Ug fligJuhst t tell u T in Y C uc rs. F E @Introdzz Tou W

To reach an audience of over 2,000,000 passengers every issue, please contact our advertising sales team on WIZZ45_000_Cover.indd 1

18/09/2013 10:13

+44 (0) 207 749 2333

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PROMOT ION

LOVE YOUR SKIN A visit to SkinLaserStudio in Katowice, south Poland, can leave you looking younger, healthier and more radiant than ever he professionals at the SkinLaserStudio Clinic of Aesthetic Medicine all share a common belief that care about good appearance makes our souls grow in strength and that the joy that comes with beauty promotes health and happiness in those that surround us. Always adhering to the medical principle of primum non nocere – first, do no harm – the team work tirelessly to put this philosophy into practice. Through cutting-edge aesthetic treatments, they have helped a huge variety of people look younger, refreshed and rested without ever changing their natural individuality. The clinic provides a comprehensive range of treatments for men, women and children, always individually tailored to the precise needs of the patient. These include – as you would expect from the clinic’s name – numerous laser therapies, which can erase scars, stretchmarks, acne, tattoos and warts, while the gentlemax laser is the most efficient in the world in the removal of skin discolourations, hair and vascular malformations.

Other treatments available include those using ULTHERA, the first device designed for non-invasive lifting of the face, neck and décolletage; and Thermage, a device that uses radio frequency energy to firm and tighten skin on the face, neck, arms, abdomen and thighs. Meanwhile, S.A.F.E.R. uses the latest innovations in technology to provide safe and non-invasive hair transplant. In addition, SkinLaserStudio also provides medical lipolysis to remove fatty tissue from the chin, and Cooltech, which uses coldness to quickly reduce fatty tissue in two areas of the body at the same time. Years of experience and continued investment in education, as well as a commitment to using advanced medical technology, ensure that every procedure is safely performed to the highest of standards at a modern facility in Katowice.

ul. Mickiewicz 14/2, Katowice, Poland +48 32 25 99 349, +48 32 25 35 300, dermatolog@skin-laser.pl www.skin-laser.pl

Before/przed

After/po

S.A.F.E.R. non-surgical hair transplant Zabieg niechirurgicznego przeszczepu włosów S.A.F.E.R.

Before/przed

After/po

THERMAGE skin tightening Ujędrnianie skóry urządzeniem THERMAGE

Before/przed

After/po

ULTHERA non-surgical face and neck skin lifting Nieoperacyjny lifting skóry twarzy i szyi urządzeniem ULTHERA

DERMATOLOGY AND AESTHETIC MEDICINE DERMATOLOGIA I MEDYCYNA ESTETYCZNA

S.A.F.E.R. Przeszczep Wlosów The world’s latest technology for safe and non-invasive hair transplant Najnowsza, światowa technologia bezpiecznego i nieinwazyjnego przeszczepiania włosów

LED LAMPS Lampy LED An innovation in the treatment of skin diseases: acne, inflammation, wounds and injuries Innowacja w leczeniu chorób skóry: trądzik, zmiany zapalne, rany, urazy

MEDICAL LIPOLYSIS Lipoliza medyczna The removal of fatty tissue from the chin Usuwanie tkanki tłuszczowej z podbródka

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ULTHERA Nieoperacyjny lifting

THERMAGE Ujędrnianie

The first device for non-invasive lifting of the face, neck and décolletage skin Pierwszy aparat do nieinwazyjnego liftingu skóry twarzy, szyi, dekoltu Pierwszy aparat do nieinwazyjnego liftingu skóry twarzy, szyi, dekoltu

Firming and tightening the skin of the face, eyelids, neck, décolletage, abdomen, arms and thighs using radio frequency energy Ujędrnianie i napinanie skóry twarzy, powiek, szyi, dekoltu, brzucha, ramion, ud przy użyciu fal radiowych

COOLTECH Krioliza

GENTLEMAX LASER Laser Gentlemax

An ultramodern device for modelling a silhouette with cold; for the fastest reduction of fatty tissue in two areas of the body at the same time Ultranowoczesny aparat modelujący sylwetkę zimnem, najszybsza redukcja tkanki tłuszczowej w dwóch obszarach ciała równocześnie

The world’s most efficient laser treatment for painless removal of hair, vascular malformations and skin discolourations Najskuteczniejszy w światowych rankingach, bezboleśnie usuwa owłosienie, zmiany naczyniowe, przebarwienia

AESTHETIC DERMATOLOGY Dermatologia estetyczna Wrinkle removal, lip augmentation, Botox, mesotherapy, peelings, treatment of hair loss and hyperhidrosis Usuwanie zmarszczek, modelowanie ust, Botox, mezoterapia, peelingi, leczenie łysienia i nadpotliwości

LASER TREATMENTS Zabiegi laserowe For the removal of skin laxity, scars, warts, stretchmarks, acne, acne rosacea, and tattoos, plus hair loss treatments Usuwanie: wiotkości skóry, blizn, rozstępów, trądziku, trądziku różowatego, tatuaży, brodawek, leczenie wypadania włosów

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MEDICAL TOURISM DIRECTORY

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E XC I T I N G N E W D E S T I N AT I O N S , O F F E R S A N D A L L T H E L AT E S T N E W S F R O M W I Z Z A I R

TO RUSSIA WITH LOVE This year, Wizz Air’s ‘Go East’ expansion has seen new flights to Azerbaijan, UAE and Turkey, and now another exciting destination has been added to the list: Moscow. The new route celebrates the first ever low-fare

link between Hungary and Russia – Wizz Air now flies from Budapest to Moscow Vnukovo International airport daily. Want to find out more about this vibrant capital city? See page 58 for our Moscow feature.

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T H E W I Z Z WAY

Show Us Your Belly Button!

Te mpt in g Tel Av i v... Take off to Tel Aviv as Wizz Air unveils its four new routes: from Vilnius, Warsaw, Cluj-Napoca and Katowice Wizz Air only started flying to Israel last year, but now the airline has announced four new routes to the cosmopolitan city of Tel Aviv. This autumn the airline will fly from Vilnius in Lithuania, Katowice and Warsaw in Poland and Cluj-Napoca in Romania to Ben Gurion International Airport. Services from Vilnius, Warsaw and Cluj-Napoca will be twice

weekly, and flights from Katowice to Tel Aviv will be three times a week. Prices start as low as €39.99 one-way including taxes, which means enjoying Tel Aviv’s beaches, sunny climate and fantastic food are all more appealing than ever. And just think, with the money you’ll save on your flight you can go shopping at Carmel Market or Dizengoff Mall, splash out on a leisurely breakfast or lunch at the cafés on Rothschild Boulevard, or even take a day trip and float about on the Dead Sea!

Yes, it’s an odd request, but Wizz Air is asking you to reveal your belly button! It’s all part of a fun campaign to celebrate the launch of Wizz Tours, the new online travel platform by Wizz Air. What do belly buttons have to do with great-value package summer holidays, you may ask? Well, summer holidays mean sunshine and beaches, and beaches mean bikinis and swim shorts, and getting on your swimwear means getting out your belly button. Still not sure? Watch the quirky video (and a lot of belly buttons) on Wizz Air’s TV channel, wizztv. com. And visit wizztours. com for inspiration for your next summer holiday. And if that doesn’t ensure plenty of navel-gazing, nothing will.

AIRLINE EXPANSION

RUNWAY FUN RUN!

Wizz Air has announced that four new Airbus A320s will join its fleet in spring 2014. An additional plane in Budapest will support more weekly flights on nine popular routes. In Skopje (pictured right), the airline will increase flights on existing routes and launch new services to Brussels, Paris and Frankfurt. From May, an additional aircraft in Sofia will take the fleet from three to four aircraft, supporting more flights on the 16 existing routes and new flights to Malmo (Sweden). Finally, in June a fourth aircraft will arrive in Warsaw to start flights to Corfu and Heraklion (Greece) in time for summer.

On 28 September, Wizz Air, Nike and Budapest Airport joined forces to sponsor the first ever Runway Run. The half marathon relay race was held on Runway 1 at the airport. Proceeds will go to support programming at the athletic centre on Budapest’s Margaret Island.

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19/03/2013 09:19

T H E W I Z Z WAY

Q & A

What is Your Best Ski Stor y?

Ingrid Weber

During one WIZZ ski trip, I decided to try snowboarding. Having skied since I was young, I assumed it would be easy and went straight away to the very top of the mountain. I spent the entire day there, unable to stand up before finally giving up and deciding to walk when it started to get dark!

PHOTOS BY TIM E. WHITE

George Michalopoulos

One of my more memorable experiences was last winter. I boarded with local friends who knew the ins and outs of all the runs at the resort. At the end of the day we went to an on-piste bar which closed later than the slopes. As we were their last customers they sent us off with free drinks!

Peter Seres

I’m a beginner and enjoy new challenges – but coming down a steep, winding, slushy slope isn’t one of them! On one tricky run I tried to avoid someone and lost control – I went from a beginner Alpine skier to a professional ski jumper! Luckily the deep snow saved me from a hard fall and broken bones.

Kirstin Wulczyn

When I joined Wizz Air, I had no idea that I would find such a huge community of skiers, although the pair of skis sitting in the room in which I was interviewed should have given it away! Sharing time on the slopes with my colleagues has been a great way to get to know them.

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W I Z Z WAY

RADEK GAJ GROOMING GURU

Known unofficially as the ‘Grooming Guru’, Radek Gaj is the man who ensures that the appearance of the WIZZ cabin crew passes muster. He takes a moment out of his schedule to tell us what his role involves and why he considers it important.

“FLYING IS MY PA SSION, BUT I HAVE A DEEP INTEREST IN FA SHION, TOO”

example. Very long hair should be worn in a ponytail or bun, but hair longer than shoulder length can also swept to one side, as long as it’s less than 30cm. We really pay attention to detail too, such as all cabin crew buttoning their jacket whenever they’re going through the airport terminal. When we got the new uniform, I was invited to the Wizz Air HQ and everyone asked my opinion. Whenever there’s a change in regulations or any kind of grooming query, everyone comes straight to me. I think the uniform plays a significant role in our job – first impressions are very important and looking groomed and professional is an essential part of our ‘service with a smile’ ethos.”

R ADEK’S TOP ST YLE TIPS How you too can look great when you step off the plane: ● Try to sleep onboard: you need as much rest as possible. If you’re well rested then you will look fresh. ● Drink water. Too much coffee, tea and alcohol dehydrate you and make you look tired. I always drink lots of water during flights. ● In our line of work, you don’t know where you’re going to end up, so I always pack my grooming essentials: face cream, cosmetics, aftershave and hair products.

INTERVIEW BY BEN THORNTON-HARWOOD

“I’ve worked for Wizz Air since 2006, when I started as a member of the cabin crew flying out of Gdansk. Three years later, I moved to Warsaw and I’ve been based here for nearly four years. Flying is my passion and I’ve always loved aviation. I also have an interest in fashion that comes from deep within. Early on, people began to notice how much care I took of my appearance and then, five years ago, I mentioned to my managers that it might be a good idea for me to take care of the cabin crew’s grooming, and they agreed. I created a checklist by which I can assess the staff’s appearance. I also developed a separate training procedure for the cabin crew, so they can become familiar Wizz Air’s style requirements and expectations. All the cabin crew are told how to have their hair, make-up, nail length and nail varnish colour [pink to match the blouse in the uniform, or French polish]. It takes a lot of thinking about: our chosen hairstyles are actually connected to our safety procedure, for

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W I Z Z

A I R

Safet y Informat ion hilst on board this flight we ask that you consider your fellow passengers and also pay attention to the information below. Be informed that by purchasing your Wizz Air ticket, you have accepted the Wizz Air General Conditions of Carriage. Our cabin crew will be happy to answer any questions you may have. Please remember that they are on board primarily for your safety but also for your comfort.

SMOKING Smoking on any Wizz Air flight is strictly forbidden, this includes the use of electronic cigarettes. Lavatories are equipped with smoke detectors. ALCOHOL Alcoholic drinks are available on board as detailed in our inflight magazine, WIZZ. These are served at the crew’s discretion to passengers of legal drinking age. While on board, you are only permitted to consume alcoholic drinks purchased from the WIZZ Boutique and Café. The cabin crew reserve the right to stop serving alcohol to any passenger who is or appears to be drunk. YOUR CONDUCT ON BOARD In accordance with International Law, the Captain is in command of the aircraft and every person on board shall obey his or her lawful commands. The Captain has the authority to take any actions deemed necessary to manage passengers who are disruptive or cause problems during flights. Our primary concern is for the safety of our passengers and crew. We have a zero-tolerance policy with regard to passengers who are verbally or physically disruptive towards any other person on board the aircraft. In all cases of disruptive or abusive behaviour by passengers, the crew will always put the safety of the aircraft, crew and other passengers first. They will follow related safety procedures and notify the authorities.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT It is an offence to tamper with or remove any safety equipment on board this aircraft, including the life vests. Any such actions may jeopardise the safety of other passengers and lead to prosecution. Life vests for infants are available and will be provided in the event of a landing on water. SAFE STOWAGE OF YOUR HAND BAGGAGE Please ensure that your cabin baggage remains safely stowed for take-off and landing and at any time as instructed by the crew. Place small bags under the seat in front of you (unless you are seated in an emergency exit row); larger items must go in the overhead lockers. Place your bag securely in the locker and take care when opening lockers, as falling items may injure fellow passengers. SHARP ITEMS If you need to dispose of any sharp items (i.e. hypodermic needle), please contact a member of the cabin crew. ELECTRONIC DEVICES In accordance with International Civil Aviation Authority safety regulations, the use of devices for messaging, calls or internet access must remain switched off once the aircraft doors are closed. Some devices can be used during the flight (when the seatbelt sign has been switched off), these include: ● Bluetooth devices, excluding telephones. ● Devices (including PDAs and smart phones) that have a flight-safe mode, provided this is enabled before the aircraft doors are closed. The device must then be switched off for take-off and again for landing. ● Laptops and tablet PCs including those with built-in WLAN/WiFi, provided the WLAN/WiFi is switched off prior to the doors being closed. ● Electronic games, eBooks, MP3s, DVD and CD players, provided that any WLAN/WiFi is switched off prior to the doors being closed.

If in doubt, please keep devices switched off for the duration of the flight as they may interfere with our systems. PALENIE Palenie podczas lotów liniami Wizz Air jest bezwzgle˛ dnie zabronione. Zakaz ten obejmuje równiez˙ papierosy elektroniczne. Toalety s wyposaz˙ one w czujniki dymu. ALKOHOL Na pokładzie samolotu doste˛ pne s napoje alkoholowe wymienione w magazynie pokładowym. S one serwowane pełnoletnim pasaz˙ erom według uznania pracowników obsługi. Na pokładzie samolotu moz˙ na konsumowac´ tylko alkohol zakupiony podczas serwisu Wizz Café. Ze wzgle˛ dów bezpieczen´ stwa przebywanie na pokładzie samolotu w stanie nietrzez´ wym jest niedozwolone. Zgodnie z własn ocen pracownicy obsługi lotu mog przestac´ serwowac´ alkohol osobom, które s nietrzez´ we lub sprawiaj takie wraz˙ enie.

FUMATUL Este strict interzis fumatul la bordul orica˘rui zbor Wizz Air flight, inclusiv fumarea tiga˘rilor electronice. Toaletele sunt preva˘zute cu detectoare de fum. ALCOOLUL La bord sunt disponibile ba˘uturi alcoolice, asa cum este detaliat în revista de bord a companiei WIZZ. Acestea sunt servite, dupa˘ cum decide echipajul, pasagerilor care au vârsta permisa˘ de lege pentru a consuma alcool. Cât timp va˘ aflati la bord, puteti sa˘ consumati doar ba˘uturi alcoolice cumpa˘rate de la Wizz Café. Din motive de siguranta˘, este interzis sa˘ fiti în stare de ebrietate la bordul unui avion. Însotitorii de zbor îsi rezerva˘ dreptul de a înceta sa˘ mai serveasca˘ alcool orica˘rui pasager care este sau care pare a fi în stare de ebrietate.

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T H E W I Z Z WAY

W I Z Z

A I R

P roducts & Ser vices HALF-PRICE HOTEL S Wherever you’re flying to today, we have a huge selection of hotels at great rates. You’ll find everything from budget accommodation to five-star luxury pads among our portfolio of more than 345,000 properties in 184 countries thanks to our hotel partner, Booking.com The five-star Auris Plaza Hotel is a fantastic choice. Located in the heart of Al Barsha, in Dubai, this hotel is just a 5-minute walk to the Mall of the Emirates. Matthias from Bulgaria says: “It’s an excellent hotel, with excellent service and very friendly, helpful staff. The hotel offers a rich breakfast and delicious dinner buffet. I will recommend this hotel to my friends and business partners, and I’ll definitely come back soon!”

Fly and drive in one click Book your flights and car rental in just one easy step; just add your car rental to your shopping basket, together with your flights and other services, and settle the balance in one single transaction at wizzair.com. With rentals starting from as little as €12 per day, you won’t find a better deal anywhere else!

WIZZ AIRPORT TR ANSFER

AIRPORT PARKING Wizz Air has teamed with ParkVia to bring you the best prices for car parking across its European network. You could save up to 60%! Booking online is easy and saves you money, whether you need to park your car for just one day, or several months.

You’ve just landed and you’re ready for your holiday! Minimise stress and get straight to the fun: skip the queues at the airport after arrival and pre-book your airport transfer. Low-cost buses, door-to-door transfers, train or taxi options are available at our major destinations.

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T H E W I Z Z WAY

WIZZ PREMIUM Add all your favourite services in just one click and save up to 45%! We’ve packaged our most popular services into two bundles, Wizz Premium (€30) and Wizz Premium Plus (€49). Both packages include airport check-in, Reserved Seat or XXLong Extra Legroom, Wizz Flex, on-time arrival guarantee, large cabin bag and, in the Wizz Premium Plus package, one piece of checked-in baggage. Wizz Premium packages for flights from Budapest include fast-track security service.

*ON ALL FARES EXCEEDING €12.50 AND EXCLUDING FLIGHTS OPERATED BY WIZZ AIR UKRAINE. FARES INCLUDE TAXES, NON OPTIONAL CHARGES AND ONE SMALL CABIN BAG (42X25X32CM), BUT EXCLUDE BOOKING FEE.

WIZZ RESERVED SE AT AND X XLONG EX TR A LEGROOM Beat the crowds and the queues, and enjoy a guaranteed seat in the first front two rows of the plane, or a seat in the emergency rows, with our Reserved Seat and XXLong Extra Legroom services. Offering significantly more legroom, it’s perfect for long-limbed travellers, or those that just want to travel in a little more comfort. The service also includes priority boarding.

The WIZZ Air Credit Cards Shop, collect and spend! Apply for a Wizz Air co-branded credit card with one of our partner banks in Hungary (Erste Bank), Poland (Citibank) or Romania (BCR) to collect points on all your purchases (2% for regular purchases, 4% for purchases on wizzair. com) and redeem them on wizzair.com for Wizz Air flights and services. In addition, receive a one-year completely FREE WIZZ Discount Club membership, giving you (and up to nine travelling companions) access to a guaranteed discount of €10 per one-way flight on all fares* exceeding €12.50.

WIZZ FLEX Unlimited online flight change for free! Travel plans can change at the last minute. Purchasing WIZZ Flex for only €10 per flight will allow you to change the date, time and routing of your flight, online and any number of times, up to three hours prior to the scheduled departure time. The change fee will not be charged – however, any fare difference must be paid.

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Váltsa repülésre vásárlásait

Wizz Air Hitelkártyával szerzett pontjaiból!

A Wizz Air Hitelkártyával minden vásárlásával 100 forintonként 2 pontot gyûjthet, amelyeket egy az egyben forintokra válthat és Wizz Air repülõjegyekre valamint egyéb utazási szolgáltatásokra használhat fel! Ismerkedjen meg a Wizz Air Hitelkártya nyújtotta kedvezményekkel! Keresse tanácsadóinkat a Liszt Ferenc Repülõtér indulási oldal : l ; m^kfbg e m^k e^m g% Zahe Zd k *. i^k\ ZeZmm b` grêa^m Pbss :bk Abmêd kmr m â`r e^`d sê^[[ f k d^]o^sf gr^l^g kî ea^m' MAF3 -*%-*

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A tájékoztatás nem teljes körû. A részletes kondíciókat és szerzõdéses feltételeket az Erste Bank mindenkor hatályos Lakossági Hitelkártya Általános Szerzõdési Feltételei és a Lakossági Hitel Hirdetmény, a pontgyûjtés és pontbeváltás részleteit a Wizz Air Kártyák Pontgyûjtõ Feltételei tartalmazzák. Ezek Z ]hdnf^gmnfhd f^`mZe eaZm Zd Z [ZgdÖ dhd[Zg l Z ppp'^klm^[Zgd'an \ f^g' Mêc^l Abmê] c FnmZm !MAF" f^àZm khs lZ Zs Zdmn ebl _êm mê^d% bee^mo^ Z aZm erhl ch`lsZ[ erhd Ö`rê^f[ô mê oê ,0. ^s^k _hkbgm abmê lls^`% *+ a gZi _nmZfb]ž% Z aZob o emhs abmêdZfZm% oZeZfbgm Z s keZmb ] c Ö`rê^f[ô mê oê d^k em dbls f m lkZ% Z _êm mê^d l Z ch`lsZ[ er o emhs lZ ^l^m g f km d^ f ]hlneaZm' : MAF km d^ g^f m dk sb Z abmê dZfZmdh\d sZm m'

19/07/2013 11:55

THIS WILL BE YOUR NIGHT

BOSS NUIT POUR FEMME

THE NEW FRAGRANCE FOR WOMEN. FEATURING GWYNETH PALTROW

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE HOT DRINKS

COFFEE & DECAF €2

SOFT DRINKS

Selection valid on Wizz Air Hungar y flights

HOT TEA €2

CAPPUCCINO €3

HOT CHOCOLATE €3

Breakfast Time! Buy any hot drink and croissant and SAVE €1.

S AV E €1

MINERAL WATER €2 sparkling / still ( 0.5L )

BURN ENERGY DRINK €3 (0.25L)

COCA-COLA, COCA-COLA LIGHT, SPRITE €2 (0.33L)

JUICES €3

NESTEA €3

PRODUCT MAY VARY

(0.5L)

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

Choose your favourite cocktail Buy any spirit and any soft drink and get a bag of peanuts for FREE!

ALCOHOL

PREMIUM WINES €4 JÄGERMEISTER €4 ( 0.04L )

PRODUCT MAY VARY

Buy 2 cans of beer for €5

SAVE €1

BEER €3 (0.33L)

VODKA / WHISKEY €4 (0.05L)

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE FRESH FOOD

HAM & CHEESE BAGUET TE €4

CHEESE BAGUET TE €4 (Vegetarian)

CHICKEN BAGUET TE €4

Meal Deal Buy any sandwich and any hot/soft drink, beer or wine and you’ll get one of the following products FREE: Twix, Snickers, Mars bar, Kit Kat, peanuts, fruit cake OR breakfast biscuit

FREE

1 24 / W I Z Z M AGA Z I N E

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE TA S T Y S N ACKS

SOUP €3

KOSHER/HALAL SNACK BOX €4 Includes: two mini toasts (8g each), one pot of salmon rillette (50g), one mini dark chocolate bar (6g), one shortbread biscuit (11g) and plastic knife

SALTED, CRUNCHY PEANUTS €1

BAKE ROLLS €2 garlic/pizza PRODUCT MAY VARY

PRINGLES €3

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE TA S T Y S N ACKS

CROISSANT €2

NUTELLA & GO €2

T WIX €1

MARS BAR €1

SNICKERS €1

KIT KAT €1

BREAKFAST BISCUIT €1

FRUIT CAKE €2

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE Selection valid on Wizz Air Hungar y flights

VERSACE WOMAN €30 An inspiring fragrance in harmony with the style of Versace Couture. EDP 100ml

CHOPARD WISH €20 Wish is a fragrance for women, by Chopard. EDP 30ml

S BY SHAKIRA FOR WOMEN €20 Oriental-floral perfume for a special night out. EDT 80ml

JAMES BOND 007 QUANTUM €30 Dedicated to the legendary British spy 007, this is a classic and unmistakably masculine fragrance. EDT 75ml

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

COOL WATER BY DAVIDOFF, FOR WOMEN €32 A floral fruity fragrance for modern women. EDT 100ml

COOL WATER BY DAVIDOFF, FOR MEN €32 Fresh and aromatic, with accentuated sea accords. EDT 100ml + 25ml free

MOSCH MOSCHINO H IN INO O UOMO UO OM MO O €20 Uomo is a woody, U d musky k ffragrance ffor men. EDT 75ml

PACO RABANNE PACO €20 Paco by Paco Rabanne is a fresh, citrus and aromatic fragrance for women and men. EDT 100ml

MOSCHINO FUNNY! €20 A floral-fruity fragrance for young women. EDT 50ml

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

GIORGIO ARMANI MINIATURE COFFRET €43 Armani Code 5ml, Aqua di Gio 5ml, Attitude 5ml, Armani Pour Homme 5ml, Diamonds 5ml

VERSACE COFFRET €41 Versense 5ml, Crystal Noir 5ml, Bright Crystal 5ml, Yellow Diamond 5ml, Vanitas 5ml

GIORGIO ARMANI ACQUA DI GIO VALUE SET €47 EDT 50ml + Balm 75ml

HAUTE COLLECTION COFFRET €39 All your favourite fragrances in one box! Poeme EDP 4ml, Safari EDP 4ml, Tresor EDP 7.5ml, Noa EDT 7ml, Paloma Picasso EDT 5ml

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

HUGO BOSS NUIT WAS €54 / NOW €48 Boss Nuit Pour Femme delivers a boost of confidence and femininity. EDP 50ml

HUGO BOSS BOT TLED WAS €46 / NOW €41 Elegance and style reflected in this very sophisticated fragrance for men. EDT 50ml SPECIAL OFFERS

PACO RABANNE LADY MILLION WAS €59 / NOW €53 Lady Million from Paco Rabanne is a luxurious and seductive fragrance. EDP 50ml

PACO RABANNE 1 MILLION WAS €63 / NOW €56 An addictive, fresh and spicy fragrance for men. EDT 100ml

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16/09/2013 13:01

CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

ROBERTO CAVALLI €43 A sparkling floral fragrance inspired by exotic and sensual Mediterranean nights. EDT 50ml

CALVIN KLEIN ENCOUNTER €42 Encounter is a seductive, spicy yet masculine fragrance from Calvin Klein. EDT 50ml

DONNA KARAN BE DELICIOUS DUO SET €48 2 x 30ml EDP Spray Travel Retail Exclusive

VERSACE YELLOW DIAMOND €55 An airy, floral fragrance that is as luxurious as a diamond. EDT 50ml

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

LANCÔME HYPNOSE DOLL EYES MASCARA €24 For volumised, extended and lifted lashes.

LANCÔME ABSOLUT VOYAGE PALET TE €59 A complete make-up palette, perfect for travelling.

L’OREAL – DUO VOLUME MILLION LASHES EXCESS €27 Millionize your lashes with L’Oreal’s new mascara. Complete your trendy look with a free black contour khôl.

L’OREAL LIP GLOSS €19 The next generation lip colour that combines the texture and shine of a gloss with the long wear of a lip stain.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE SHEA HAND AND FOOT KIT €26 This shea butter-rich duo will keep your hands and feet moisturised (75ml each).

GOSH EYESHADOW PALET TE €17 22 eye shadows in one pallet. Mirror included. Travel Retail Exclusive

THE BODY SHOP MINI BODY BUT TER COLLECTION €24 Shea Butter 50ml, Olive Butter 50ml, Pink Grapefruit Butter 50ml and Moringa Butter 50ml

CLARINS SKINCARE SET €38 Beauty Flash Balm 15ml, Moisture Rich Body Lotion 30ml, One Step Facial Cleanser 100ml, Hydra Quench Cream 30ml, Hand and Nail Treatment Cream 50ml, Eye Contour Gel 3ml

BOURJOIS PARIS SMOKY EYES €21 Get gorgeous with rose vintage eyeshadow, black mascara and black eye pencil.

L’OREAL 4 COLOUR RICHE NAILS €15 Long-lasting nail collection in your favourite colours.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

SWEET DELUXE DREAM BEAD BRACELET €29 Dream bead bracelet with glass beads and a charm.

SWEET DELUXE DREAM BEAD BRACELET €29 Bracelet with glass beads and crystal tone rhinestone embellishments.

SWEET DELUXE SIENNA WHITE LEATHER BRACELET €29 Leather bracelet with a crystalencrusted magnet fastening.

PIERRE CARDIN CHARM BRACELET €19 Charm bracelet with a free matching pair of Rhodium-plated earrings.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

SUDOKU ULTIMATE GAME €20 Plays over a million puzzles for all skill levels and all ages. With large backlit display. Batteries included.

MINI SOUND BOX SPEAKER €20 Travel Easy Mini Sound Box Speakers for MP3s and music players.

EARPHONES €16 Stereo earphones with dual adaptor for shared sound.

TRAVEL BLUE NECK PILLOW €9 Inflatable neck pillow for your comfort while travelling. Made from soft, anti-allergenic, luxury fabric.

TRAVEL ESSENTIAL KIT €12 Contains ear plugs, eye mask, refreshing wipe, mints, toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant wipe, tissues. Great for last-minute emergencies!

COMFORT KIT €12 Contains inflatable pillow, pillow cover, eye mask, ear plugs and a zipped carry pouch.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

MODEL AIRCRAFT €10

REMOTE-CONTROLLED PLANE €19

TEDDY BEAR €13

ANGRY BIRDS PLUSH TOY WITH SOUNDS €11 Start your collection now and bring the characters you love onscreen into your arms.

HELLO KIT T Y EDT €22 For little girls who love perfume. EDT 60ml

HELLO KIT T Y PLUSH TOY €8 Hello Kitty plush toy with a cute pink tartan outfit.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

M&M’ S FUNCANDY €6 Each M&M’s Funcandy is filled with a 20g bag of M&M’s Milk Chocolate.

CHOCOLATE BAG “MINIS” €6 All your favourite chocolates in one bag. 500g.

HARIBO AIR-PARADE €4 Ideal for sharing! Travel value. 500g

NUTELLA – WEEKLY PACK €12 One package with 7 mini jars. 7x30g.

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CAFÉ & BOUTIQUE

SWISS TRAVEL ADAPTOR R €20 One adaptor, four options, for more than 150 countries.

PHONE CHARGER €10 Ready-to-use emergency phone charger kit, including battery.

TRAVEL TICKETS - SAVE TIME BUYING ON BOARD

El & eph Ca a st nt le

Lo Br nd id on ge

am es lin Lo k Bl nd ac o n kf ria rs

Th ty

London Thameslink stations (LDN)

Adult tickets start at 16 years and above

TO BEDFORD Adult Open Return Adult Open Single Child Open Return Child Open Single

Luton Airport (LTN)

S In t Pa te nc rn ra at s io na l Fa rri ng do n

€30 €17 €15 €9 €13 €6

Lu Pa ton rk A w ir ay po

TO LONDON Adult Open Return Adult Open Single Child Open Return Child Open Single Weekend Only Fare Weekend Child Fare

†

FIRST CAPITAL CONNECT TRAIN TICKETS:

†

Blackfriars Tube station closed until late 2011

€23 €12 €11 €6

Adult tickets start at 16 years and above

Tickets include shuttle bus from Luton Airport Parkway

PRODUCT SELECTION Due to limited space onboard, we apologise if your choice is no longer available when you order your preferred food and beverages. Product selection may vary from country to country.

PAYMENT Cash payments can be made in Euro (bank notes of up to €100 value and coins of €1 and €2). Other currencies accepted (Bank notes only): British Pound (excluding Scottish pound), Bulgarian Lev on Bulgarian flights, Czech Koruna on Czech flights, Hungarian Forints on Hungarian flights, Lithuanian Litas on Lithuanian flights, Macedonian Denar on Macedonian flights, Polish Zloty and Norwegian Krone on Polish flights, Romanian Leu on Romanian flights, Serbian Dinar on Serbian flights and Swedish Krona on Swedish flights. All prices are quoted in Euro as the base currency. Change will be given in Euro unless local currency is available. Passengers are prohibited from consuming alcoholic beverages that they have supplied themselves. Please make sure that you receive a receipt for your purchase!

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No.96703 Bartex Istra.indd 1

17/07/2013 11:54

No.92540 - Al.Pi. srl 1pp.indd 1

18/09/2013 15:04