Warsaw in Your Pocket August - September 2014 by Bookletia

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Warsaw No. 82, August - September 2014

The Warsaw Uprising Awe Inspiring - 70 Years On

No. 82 - 5zł

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Contents

Feature Warsaw Uprising

Further Afield 8

106

Arrival & Transport

Leisure

108

City Basics

Shopping

112

Culture & Events

Directory

118

Restaurants

Hotels

120

Cafés

Maps & Index

Nightlife

Sightseeing Essential Warsaw Sightseeing Old Town The Royal Route Palace of Culture and Science Praga Copernicus Science Center Łazienki Wilanów Jewish Warsaw Chopin

Monument to the Warsaw Uprising

Łódź

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Street Index

124

City Centre Map

125

City Map 71 72 84 87 89 90 92 94 97 100 103

126-127

Country Map

128

Listings Index

129

Features Index

130

IN PRINT ONLINE ON YOUR MOBILE

Photo by Zbigniew Furman. Courtesy of Warsaw Uprising Museum.

warsaw.inyourpocket.com

PLAC TEATRALNY 3, WARSAW TEL. +48 601 81 82 83 INFO@THAITHAI.WAW.PL

Foreword Welcome to Warsaw and the 82nd edition of Warsaw In Your Pocket! Summer is in full swing and the city is absolutely sizzling. It’s the perfect time to take advantage the capitals’ many finer points - exploring the parks, gardens (beer) and breathtaking urban riverwalks (take a walk on the wild side!). It’s also the heart of the tourist season, so if the weather’s down when you’re in town, head to one of the cities amazing museums. We recommend the Copernicus Science Center which you can read all about on page 92 (TIP-make sure to book tickets way in advance to avoid long lines) and also possibly the best museum in the country - the Warsaw Uprising Museum. This Uprising Museum has particular importance in this summer of 2014 as Warsaw celebrates 70th Anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising. On this heralded occasion WIYP takes an in depth look at the Uprising - from it’s earliest beginnings to the fierce guerrilla fighting in the streets and tunnels to the bloody aftermath and its enduring legacy. Read more in our feature on page 8. As always, you can let us know what you think about Warsaw and our guide on Facebook (/warsawinyourpocket.com) or old-fashioned email: editor_poland@inyourpocket.com.

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków warsaw@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Company Oﬃce & Accounts General Manager: Małgorzata Drząszcz, 606 749 676 Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31 Circulation 25,000 copies published every two months Editorial Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing Writer: Mat Fahrenholz; Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Kalina Klimaszewska, Sandra Wilczewska; Layout: Tomáš Haman; Events: Anna Hojan, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover © Zbigniew Furman. Courtesy of Warsaw Uprising Museum. Sales & Circulation Kraków/Katowice/Tarnów Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351 Warszawa/Łódź Manager: Marta Ciepły 606 749 643 Wrocław/Poznań Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642 Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824

FEATURE

Copyright Notice & Editor’s Note Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o., IYP City Guides Sp. z o. o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every eﬀort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

To gain perspective on just how important the Warsaw Uprising is and what it means today to a rebuilt Warsaw and resurgent Polish nation, one must look through the fractured prism of Polish History. We put the Uprising in it’s proper historical context and suggest where you can go in the city to learn more about this vital event (page 8).

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Warsaw In Your Pocket

We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). warsaw.inyourpocket.com

Warsaw Uprising ENOUGH WAS ENOUGH August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to ﬁve years of fascist hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already on the east bank of the Wisła, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. During the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt to help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved largely empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with blind rage to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued was an epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of Warsaw’s history was about to be written.

THE UPRISING

Phhoto o gra graph ph fro f m the the War Wa saw Uprising. Insu surge rgents nts on the baarricades es on ul. Zielna observing the bombing of th t e PAST AST bu b iltding. g. Phooto by Eug E eniuszz Lo Lokaj kajski ski „Brok”. Courtesy of War W saw w Uprissing i Mu Museu seum.

The Warsaw Uprising 70 Years On August 1st, 2014 marks the 70th anniversary of the beginning of the Warsaw Uprising. This inspiring, though ultimately tragic chapter to the bloodiest war in both Polish and World History, has become an enduring symbol of the undying courage and strength of the Polish people and the selﬂess sacriﬁce of the few for the many. Dignitaries from all over the world will descend upon Warsaw in the coming months to join survivors in commemorating the Uprising, acknowledge its legacy and honor its many heroes..

Considering the epic scale of the bloodshed, and how brutal Hitler’s tactics were in subjugating and eliminating each and every ethnic group, it’s little surprise Poland gave birth to Europe’s largest resistance movement. Even still, with the war moving towards its closing stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona ﬁde military assault on the Nazis. By July 1944 the Red Army led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising was possible, yet nothing seemed clear cut. Fischer’s appeals for 100,000 Poles to present themselves to work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broadcasts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army leaﬂet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announcement declaring, “People of the capital! To arms! Strike at the Germans! May your million strong population become a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders and win freedom.” Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that German military despatches on the afternoon of August 1, 1944 concluded with, “Warschau ist kalm.” Warsaw was anything but. On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski 5pm signalled W-Hour (Wybuch standing for outbreak), the precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

any numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town, Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital. Yet in spite of these initial successes there remained several concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More worryingly, several objectives had been met with disaster – the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did the airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his torpor, screaming for “No prisoners to be taken,” and “Every inhabitant to be shot.” Within days German reinforcements started pouring in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind the barricades, cultural life thrived – over 130 newspapers sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields was quickly introduced. The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000 women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews liberated from a Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John. Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was

City Centre North - Insurgents from company “Koszta” read from a German ﬂyer on the corner of ul. Sienkiewicza and Marszałkowska. Photo by Eugeniusz Lokajski „Brok”. Courtesy of Warsaw Uprising Museum.

August - September 2014

Warsaw Uprising

Warsaw Uprising ‘Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the Uprising remained in people’s hearts and souls. It was passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the Rising. You did not die in vain.’ Lech Walesa, 1994

an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Air drops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate – one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out of a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed, rested on the Russians. After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the go ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a debacle, and with heavy casualties and no headway made the assault was called off. For the Russians, this single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s old town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee and armour. Six hundred millimetre shells were landing on the centre every eight minutes, and casualties were rising to alarming rates. Surrender negotiations were initiated in early September, though it wasn’t till the end of the month – by which time all hope had been exhausted – that they took a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich. “The battle is finished,” wrote a eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin. “From the blood that has been shed, from the common toil and misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new Poland will arise – free.”

THE AFTERMATH Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity, defeated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the ﬁgure. Hitler was ecstatic; with the Uprising out of the way his plan to raze Warsaw could ﬁnally be realized. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. “No stone can remain standing,” warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were numbered according to their importance to Polish culture before being dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Nothing was spared the iconoclasm, not even trees. “I have seen many towns destroyed,” exclaimed General Eisenhower after the war, “But nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” 10 Warsaw In Your Pocket

WHAT TO SEE

Old Town Square, 1945

Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around ﬁfty four billion dollars. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on. Those veterans who survived were treated with suspicion and disdain by the newly installed communist government, others were persecuted for perceived western sympathies. Post-war Soviet show trials convicted 13 leaders of the Uprising for anti-Soviet actions, and thereafter the Uprising was condemned as a folly to serve the bourgeois ends of the Polish government-in-exile.

70 YEARS ON The condemnation of the Uprising on behalf of the PostWar Communist regimes only fueled the fervor and made the martyrs even more heroic in the eyes of the suppressed Polish people. Many of the critically acclaimed Director’s who made regime approved films in the 50’s and 60’s alluded to the Uprising as a metaphor for the Polish peoples struggle under communism (i.e. Andrzej Wajda’s Kanał (The Canal)). The trade union Solidarity picked up on this as well in the 1980’s and they used the language and symbology of the Uprising to help solidify the opposition to the regime. Once the wall came down the dam literally burst and there was a flood of interest and attention on an event that had been dismissed but far from forgotten. Today, finally, the event that has come to define the spirit of Warsaw, is beginning to be awarded the recognition it deserves. You can almost feel the spirit of the Uprising in modern day Warsaw, and even the country as a whole. Not only are there physical reminders literally everywhere you turn (none more visible than the ubiquitous symbol of the Uprising and the Polish resistance movement - the P/W anchor) but it has captured the national and even international zeitgeist. In the last decade there have been countless films, documentaries and even a Polish rock band released a critically acclaimed concept album based on the Uprising (Lao Che’s - Powstanie Warszawskie). And perhaps none of us could ever forget the stirring images from the final third of Roman Polanski’s The Pianist (2002) depicting the heroics and ultimately devastating consequences of this now eternal Uprising. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

BIELAŃSKI BANK Few remnants of the Uprising are more conspicuous than the hulking shell on ul. Bielańska. It’s got quite a history. The site was originally home to a mint, but that found itself demolished to make way for the Warsaw division of the Imperial Bank of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikołajewicz Benois, a rector of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg, construction began in 1907 and went on for a further four years. Within another four years the Russian’s had left, the collapse of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back east with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over the building, first employing it as the National Treasury, then establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in 1926. The structure became a key strategic target during the Warsaw Uprising, and on capture served as a base for Polish insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs the building was left to rot in the decades that followed. Originally slated to house the Warsaw Uprising Museum, the bank was subject to legal wrangles that saw that idea bite the dust. Recently Belgian property developer Ghelamco redeveloped the site as an office complex that opened last fall. According to plans the six-floor building exposes parts of the walls of the ancient mint.QB-2, ul. Bielańska 10. EXECUTION SITES The fall of communism brought with it a huge desire to commemorate the Uprising, which had hitherto been largely erased from Polish history by anti-nationalist communist censors. Now memorial plaques and tablets abound around Warsaw and though they tend to be in Polish only, it doesn’t take long to get the hang of them; on the whole they’ll display the date and number of people executed by the Nazis. MONUMENT TO THE WARSAW UPRISING (POMNIK POWSTANIA WARSZAWSKIEGO) It was only with the regime close to collapse that this unconventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled. Completed in 1989 and designed by Wincent Kucma, it depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction retreating into the sewers.QB-2, Pl. Krasińskich. RUINS OF THE RISING Between 1939 and 1944 over 84 percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the Herculean rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred walls on pre-war tenements can still be found in relative abundance round the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruction. Perhaps most obvious of all is the building on ul. Waliców, featuring shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

THE LITTLE INSURGENT MONUMENT (POMNIK MAŁEGO POWSTAŃCA) The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Uprising, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the Barbakan. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek, himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.QB-2, ul. Podwale.

LEARN MORE WARSAW UPRISING MUSEUM (MUZEUM POWSTANIA WARSZAWSKIEGO) Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits it’s a museum that’s guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the Uprising (provided they don’t make any wrong turns, alas, a common mistake). Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk through a replica radio station, or a covert printing press. The mezzanine level features film detailing the first month of battle, before which visitors get to clamber through a mock sewer. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the destruction of the city; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis as punishment. Near the exit check out the film “City of Ruins,” a silenceinducing 5 minute 3-D aerial ‘film’ which took 2 years to make and used old pictures and new technology to recreate a picture of the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A viewing platform and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experienceQD-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. From September open 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10zł (children under 7 free). Sun free. Audio guides for 10zł per person. Film costs 2zł per person. U August - September 2014

Arrival & Transport TRAIN SMARTS The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape even if the rolling stock is by and large something you may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly better than Britain’s railways; you’ll find most trains run on time, are cheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are generally pretty slow even on Intercity trains with limited high-speed sections of track throughout the country. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by western standards very cheap with a first -class ticket to Kraków from Warsaw for instance setting you back about 150zł (about €40). The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of train. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fastest, newest and most expensive of the lot, with first and second class compartments holding up to six people and seat reservations required. New rolling stock is appearing with open carriages and 230v AV sockets. The Express (EX) train is less modern than the EIC but still considered expensive, and also requires seat reservations. The EuroCity (EC) trains offer international connections and seat reservations as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK) which has second class seats that often require no seat reservation and first class seats that do; the InterREGIO (IR) trains, which are the cheapest, have only second class seats and require no reservation; and the REGIOekspres (RE) which no longer has seat reservations available online. With the budget options you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your journey is guaranteed to try your good humour. More information on train times and prices check the very useful www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has an English option. There is the functionality to book tickets online once you have registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/ index.jsp). This option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one without the hassle of queuing at the station. If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on the desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 15zł), and credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected to greet others in their compartment with a curt ‘dzień dobry’, and it is taken as given that a male passengers will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage. Finally most stations throughout the country are appallingly lacking in signs denoting the station name and it’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and frustration. Arrivals Departures Platform

Przyjazdy Odjazdy Peron

12 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Arrival & Transport BY TRAIN Warsaw’s main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal giant that sits conveniently in the city’s center and is the main hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally passengers may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschodnia on the eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga Północ and Praga Południe districts, and Warszawa Zachodnia on the border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west of the city.

Fot. PKP S.A./ P. Krzywicki

WARSZAWA CENTRALNA TRAIN STATION Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations we’re happy to say it’s now easy to navigate as well. Centralna is looking better than it ever has with new storefronts and modern upgrades that will impress those who’ve been away for a while. From alighting the train you should take one of the two facing escalators (if they’re working) in the centre of the platform, which will lead you up into one of the underground passages that flank the main hall. Whichever side you come up on you will be one level below ground level and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and though once sparse the machines can be spotted at almost every turn. Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace of Culture - just look for the ‘i’ sign (Open 08:00 - 20:00). They can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the public transport system can be bought from most of the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corridor that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia Bagażu, where stewards will look after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers. Connect to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same newsagents. Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road you’ll find bus and tram stops though once you enter the signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may never be seen or heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE taxis can be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and SAWA taxis can be found rank on the Złote Tarasy side. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish rail. Find it on the Złote Tarasy side of the building to the right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under the Centrum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.intercity. pl). Open from 09:00 - 20:30, the multi-lingual staff (they can even assist the deaf ) can search for the cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you. The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna has improved dramatically with the renovations. There are all kinds of local and international coffee joints, fast food chains and kebab shops to grab a quick bite or pass some time. If you have a lot of time to kill, Champions in the Marriott can be reached via the underground passageway and offers a far better place to sit and wait than the station itself, as does the nearby Złote Tarasy shopping centre. Don’t be alarmed to find Warszawa Centralna used as a drop-in centre by Warsaw’s homeless population - while most are harmless some like to pass their time being drunk and abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail staff manning the ticket booths are mono-lingual, the tramps in Centralna seem adept at begging in a multitude of tongues.QA/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:00. WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA TRAIN STATION QH-1, ul. Kijowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:00. WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA TRAIN STATION QD-4, ul. Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Ticket office open 03:30 - 24:00.

BY PLANE Getting in and out of Warsaw by plane improved drastically in recent times. The capital’s main air hub - Chopin Airport - got a modern overhaul, while budget carriers moved in at the new Modlin Airport just northwest of the city. That was until winter came and the Modlin runway cracked apart (bravo). It has now finally been repaired, but the wise men at WizzAir prefer to remain at Chopin, while Ryanair recently resumed their flight schedule at Modlin. WARSAW CHOPIN AIRPORT (LOTNISKO CHOPINA W WARSZAWIE) Warsaw Chopin Airport has recently seen the opening of Zone CDE, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly next to the older Zone AB (which is currently under major renovation and will remain closed until 2015). Collectively they are called Terminal A, and the spacious CDE now handles all incoming and outgoing traffic. The hallway connecting the zones houses ATMs, exchange offices, tourist info, coffee shops and snack marts. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

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August - September 2014

Arrival & Transport WARSAW MODLIN AIRPORT

WARSAW-MODLIN AIRPORT (PORT LOTNICZY WARSZAWA/MODLIN) The brand new Modlin airport looks like a shiny overturned tin can nestled in a forest in the middle of nowhere, although the architects may beg to differ. After a clumsy false start in 2012 involving a cracked runway, it finally reopened in September 2013. WizzAir opted not to return, while RyanAir reactivated all of their 26 connections across Europe including 2 domestic routes. The interior is clean, modern and well-equipped to handle international travellers with plenty of prominent signage. After collecting your luggage from one of two belts and exiting into the main hall you’ll find all the services you could want: ATMs, an information desk, bathrooms, currency exchange, travel agents, shops of all shapes and sizes, 2 playgrounds, vending machines, six restaurants (including a grill and bar) for more legitimate meals and six car rental companies. Those looking to end up in Warsaw city center have three main options for transport: grab a cab or private shuttle, take a bus to the capital, or board one of the green and yellow shuttles that will take you to Modlin Train Station where you then take a train to your destination. Koleje Mazowieckie train route is economical (15zł for shuttle and train) although slightly time consuming (45 minutest +5 minutes shuttle bus). If money isn’t an option, the airport recommends two taxi companies Sawa Taxi and Taxi Modlin currently offer transport to the city centre from 119 PLN between 6 and 24 o’clock (from 149 at night). Translud is the cheapest overall transport option (8PLN) but Modlin Bus is faster more convenient (brand new busses with comfortable seats and WiFi on board) and doesn’t involve annoying transfers. For a full listing of Modlin Airport Transfer services check our our online guide. You can buy tickets for the Koleje Mazowieckie train and Modlin Bus at one of their stands located in the baggage hall or at arrivals near the exit doors.Qul. Gen. Wiktora Thommee 1a, Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22 346 43 63, www.modlinairport.pl. 14 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Arrival & Transport The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers three certified companies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute ride to the centre costs around 35-50zł, though be on guard for unlicensed sharks who will try to charge three or four times that. After hearing several complaints, we suggest agreeing on the price with your driver before setting off. The train station can be found underground by turning right outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going all the way to the end of the covered section where you will find escalators taking you down to ticket booths. The SKM trains run three times per hour and are red and white in colour. Line S2 takes you to Śródmieście station in the city centre, while line S3 takes you to Warszawa Centralna station. To take one of these trains you need a normal public transport ticket (exactly the same as what you’d use for the bus) that are available from the ticket booths and cost 4.40zł. The KM trains run once per hour, are green and white, and will take you to Centralna. They have their own ticket office at the station with a fixed price of 5,80zł, but you can use an SKM ticket here as long as you have the train driver validate it. Got that? The train ride should take around 20 minutes. Bus stops can be found in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Buses run frequently between 04:27 and 22:57 with journey time taking approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running travellers can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 minutes.Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl.

Warsaw Chopin Airport

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traffic can become a serious problem - particularly during the week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area is generally available on-street where there are standard parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major hotels will offer some form of off-road guarded parking. Be warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best especially if you have driven in western Europe. Indeed, Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship. The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/ hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit, warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat belt) and up to 500zł for speeding. The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2‰ blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re driving, don’t drink.

WARSAW SHUTTLE The company oﬀers private airport transfer services at competitive prices from 79PLN per run. Highest quality for the best possible price. Call in advance to book or book online. Qtel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.warsawshuttle.com.

BY CAR Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has extensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said that the competition on the road’s front isn’t ﬁerce. Roads leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw warsaw.inyourpocket.com

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EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didn’t ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will ﬁnd their licenses invalid (though that hasn’t stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriend’s car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving. Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be switched on at all times. GUARDED PARKING The underground parking is guarded while the other parking is supervised.QB-3, ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Hotel).

TAXIS The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab driver would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but it’s still always better to ring ahead rather than just hailing a taxi in the street. In particular be vigilant when taking a cab to the centre from the arrivals hall of the airport; we’ve heard plenty of horror stories. The accepted fare from Warsaw Chopin Airport to the centre is 35-50zł; we suggest that you agree upon this price with your driver before setting off in order to ensure avoiding any shenanigans. All the companies we list will usually have someone on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation, but you won’t find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis on the Marriott tower side of the central station; it’s the second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the countryside then by all means, feel free. ELE TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl. HALO TAXI O’KQtel. (+48) 22 196 23, www.halotaxiok.pl. MERC TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 677 77 77, www.6777777.pl. MPTQtel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl. SAWA TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 644 44 44, www.sawataxi.com.pl. SUPER TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl. August - September 2014

Arrival & Transport

BY BUS

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

If you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are you’ll be landing at the main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget options like PolskiBus drop passengers oﬀ at Dworzec Autobusowy Metro Wilanowska, a short distance from the Metro Wilanowska stop.

Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very limited, metro system running from north to south. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and most run from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N, followed by a two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

MAIN BUS STATION (DWORZEC AUTOBUSOWY WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA) Coaches arrive and depart - unless otherwise stated - from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main hall. There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you’ll have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater). There’s a legitimate left-luggage operation, as well as five payphones located in one of the side corridors (though you’ll need to buy phone cards to use them). You can do that by visiting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. You’ll also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport cards from here. Taxis to centre run between 20-30zl (refuse a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift). The bus running to the centre is found right across a busy highway and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclusion, turn right again - you’ll see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take the left one and presto, there’s your bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number 127,158 or 517. At night you’ll be needing and N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy a 3,40zł ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.QD-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Ticket office open 05:30 - 22:00. POLSKIBUS Note that the Warsaw-Gdańsk route leaves from Metro Młociny.Qul. Puławska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy Metro Wilanowska, stance 14), www.polskibus.com.

PRIVATE TRANSPORT HELICOPTER.PL Why travel with the masses when you can opt for your own private flight in a helicopter? Helicopter.pl offers flights throughout Poland via hubs in Warsaw and Wrocław. Flights take place in Eurocopters, which are renowned for their safety and modern design. Provide the number of people (and luggage) as well as your desired destination to the staff and they’ll draw up a quote.Qul. Księżycowa 3 (Bielany), building #15, tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www. helicopter.pl. 16 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions in English dotted around the city, and English translations are printed on tickets. A standard public transport single ticket costs 4.40zł. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are priced at 7zł. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us? Good. There is also a 20 minute ticket priced at 3.40zł. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced at 15 or 26zł if travelling through both zones. They have also introduced a new weekend ticket (avaible from 19:00 on Friday till 08:00 on Monday) which costs 24 zł (also a weekend group ticket is available for up to 5 people and costs 40 zł). Children ride free until the end of the August of the year they turn 7. (Really. Probably makes sense with vodka. Have proof of age ID handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of an ISIC card (in which case you must be 26 and under). This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare.

CAR RENTAL Avis provide short-term and long-term rentals, chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van rentals. There’s over 1,000 models available, equipped with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for your guaranteed comfort and safety. Also possible to exchange and swap cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska 12a (Włochy). Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48 72, www.avis.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30.

One of the worlds biggest car rental companies offers rental solutions tailor made for travellers (both short and long term) that will suit all needs (9 different categories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all Polish airports and many other convenient locations). Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to meet your individual mobility needs. Note that the Radisson Blue Sobieski is a meeting point (cars can be picked up and dropped off here).Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 25 64, www.europcar.pl. Open 07:00 23:00.

A wide range of cars from the Fiat Panda to the spacious Mercedes E-class. All cars are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka website, and go online to ﬁnd the latest seasonal promotions.QD-2, ul. Okopowa 47, tel. (+48) 609 18 10 20, www.joka. com.pl. Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours open on request.

One of the world’s largest and oldest car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from short and long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s even a ﬂeet of limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4, InterContinental Hotel).Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 20 31, www.sixt.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. BUDGET Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 40 62, www.budget.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

You can buy single tickets from machines on most trams and busses or from the driver, though you must have exact change. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy an extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain clothes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 266zł for those without valid tickets (we understand quick payment results in the fine being lessened). They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification, or even do as the locals do, and attempt to bargain them down.Qtel. (+48) 19 115, www. ztm.waw.pl. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

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August - September 2014

City Basics

City Basics FACTS & FIGURES

MARKET VALUES

Territory Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km).

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of July 21, 2014 based on €1 = 4.11zł

Longest River Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it is Poland’s longest river and ﬂows into the Bay of Gdańsk (Zatoka Gdańska). Highest Point The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland. Population (2013) Poland - 38,502,396 Warsaw - 1,718,219 Kraków - 758,940 Łódź - 715,360 Wrocław - 631,263 Poznań - 549,082 Gdańsk - 460,815 Katowice - 305,995 Local Time Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

ELECTRICITY Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are deﬁnitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your hotel concierge or reception. If they don’t have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave.

HEALTH & EMERGENCY In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the ﬁre brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabilities of the operator. 18 Warsaw In Your Pocket

McDonald's Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr beer (shop) 0.5ltr beer (bar) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros 1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) Local transport ticket (1 journey)

9.50 zł 1.69 zł 23.99 zł 2.99 zł 9.00 zł 1.59 zł 14.70 zł 5.62 zł 4.40 zł

€ 2.31 € 0.41 € 5.84 € 0.73 € 2.19 € 0.39 € 3.58 € 1.37 € 1.07

English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. If you’ve woken up to find you’ve got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can’t put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity we suggest you sort it out by calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it’s a financial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo. For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide.

LAW & ORDER In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid being ripped oﬀ by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. The oﬃcially sanctioned state company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet, and their switchboard features English speaking operators. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station warsaw.inyourpocket.com

are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaw’s right bank has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation, though is now fast becoming ever more trendy. Staying on the right side of the law is signiﬁcantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you’re determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who’ve thought it’s perfectly acceptable to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don’t push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaw’s premier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experience which will set you back 250zł for an up to 24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty ﬁne (credit cards not accepted, of course).

RELIGION For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, ﬁghting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously.

LANGUAGE SMARTS Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’ the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding. Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Warsaw and may even win you friends and admirers. On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult languages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’ ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’ ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’ ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’‘ ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’ ‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’ ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’ ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’ ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’ ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’ ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’ ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’ ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’ ‘r’ is always rolled

Polish Words & Phrases

WARSAWPASS NEW A rather nifty little card available from Tourist Information points at the Palace of Culture, The Old Town or simply upon arrival at Chopin Airport (see Tourist Information on page 81). For a one-off payment of 159zl the card allows you access to Warsaw’s top ten tourist sites, the tourist ‘Hop on, Hop off ’ bus service and discounts on various tours and at restaurants. All participating venues and services are listed in the guide book you will receive when purchasing the card. A useful option is that the card also allows you to ‘skip the queue’ at fantastically popular attractions like The Copernicus Science Centre - take our word for it, this can save you hours! The 72 hour validity starts after the first time you use the card, but do keep in mind that it won’t be much use to you when you’re fast asleep at night and also be aware that some participating museums are closed on Mondays! Places in the guide which accept WarsawPass card are marked with the Y icon. Qwww.warsawpass.com. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

Yes No Hi/Bye (informal) Hello/Good day (formal) Good evening (formal) Good-bye Good Night Please Thank you Excuse me/Sorry

Tak Nie Cześć Dzień dobry Dobry wieczór Do widzenia Dobranoc Proszę Dziękuję Przepraszam

(Tahk) (Nyeh) (Cheshch) (Jen doh-bri) (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) (Doh veet-zen-ya) (Doh-brah-noats) (Prosheh) (Jen-koo-yeh) (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... I’m from England. Do you speak English? I don’t speak Polish. I don’t understand. Two beers, please. Cheers! Where are the toilets? You are beautiful. I love you. Please take me home. Call me!

Mam na imię... Jestem z Anglii Czy mówisz po angielsku? Nie mówię po polsku. Nie rozumiem. Dwa piwa proszę. Na zdrowie! Gdzie są toalety? Jesteś piękna. Kocham cię. Proszę zabierz mnie do domu. Zadzwoń do mnie!

(Mam nah ee-myeh…) (Yehstem zanglee) (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?) (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.) (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.) (Dvah peevah prosheh.) (Nah zdrovyeh!) (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.) (Ko-hahm chuh.) (Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.) (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Train station Bus station One ticket to…

Lotnisko Dworzec PKP Dworzec PKS Jeden bilet do…

(Lot-nees-ko) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh) (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess) (Yeh-den bee-let doh…)

August - September 2014

Culture & Events

Culture & Events CONCERTS 17.08 SUNDAY PATTI SMITH American singer-songwriter and poet Patti Smith is hailed as the “godmother of punk” - her inﬂuence began with her 1975 debut album Horses. In 2007 the gal was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Now in her sixties, Patti is still going strong, touring and releasing new albums. Her newest, Banga, came out in 2012.QSowiński Park Amphitheatre, ul. Elekcyjna 17 (Wola), www.makroconcert. com/pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 110-230zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

FESTIVALS

Jew JJe eew wis ish Cu ish Cultu ltu ttuuree Fes esstiv es tiv tival: ival: iv al:: Si S nge ngger’s r’ Wa Wars rsaw. rsa rs w.

ART GALLERIES

OPERA STAGES

STAIRS GALLERYQC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl. Open 13:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

GREAT THEATRE - NATIONAL OPERA QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 692 02 08, www. teatrwielki.pl. Box office open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From September open 09:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Autumn season starts in September. Tickets 28160zł.

ZACHĘTA - NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART QB-3, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Thu free. Y

CINEMAS LUNAQF-4, ul. Marszałkowska 28, tel. (+48) 22 621 78 28, www.kinoluna.pl. Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 8-24zł. MULTIKINO ZŁOTE TARASY QA-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 462 81 10, www. multikino.pl. Box office open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 19-35zł.

CULTURAL CENTRES JIDYSZ CULTURAL CENTRE QE-1, ul. Andersa 15, tel. (+48) 22 620 47 33, www. jidyszland.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE QG-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw. art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. 20 Warsaw In Your Pocket

04.07 FRIDAY - 30.08 SATURDAY JAZZ AT THE OLD TOWN SQUARE FESTIVAL If you are a jazz lover this is a great series of concerts taking place every Saturday in the picturesque surroundings of Warsaw’s old town. Running from July 5 to August 30 you’ll see big international names playing alongside the biggest names in Polish jazz. Check out their website for a full schedule of whose playing when and don’t forget its for free. Book yourself a table in one of the restaurants overlooking the square and treat yourself to some excellent live music to accompany your meal. QB-1/2, Rynek Starego Miasta, www.jazznastarowce.pl. Concerts take place every Sat at 19:00. Full schedule available at www.jazznastarowce.pl. Admission free.

CHOPIN CONCERTS

Photo by T. Tarnowski/Stołeczna Estrada.

18.05 SUNDAY - 28.09 SUNDAY CHOPIN CONCERTS IN ROYAL ŁAZIENKI PARK Visiting Poland and not attending a Chopin concert is like... going to the Vatican without seeing the Pope, as a certain saying goes. It’s beautiful out this time of year (okay - most of the time), and the Łazienki park is lushly green and soothing and lovely - even more so when you’re listening to masterfully played piano music. The concerts fittingly take place underneath the Chopin statue, and their tradition goes back to 1959, with the festival changing and evolving over the fifty-five year that followed. Free admission, what else could you possibly want? A fantastic way to relax and unwind this is.QG-4, Royal Łazienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1, www. estrada.com.pl. Concerts start every Sun at 12:00 and 16:00. Admission free.

THEATRE STAGES DRAMA THEATRE QB-4, Palace Of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl. Box office open 12:00 - 19:00. Autumn season starts in September. Tickets 2080zł. NATIONAL THEATRE QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 09, www. narodowy.pl. Box office open from August 26: 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00; Sun depending on repertoire. Closed Mon. Autumn season starts in September. Tickets 40-90zł. TR WARSZAWA QG-4, ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 480 80 08, www.trwarszawa.pl. Box office open from August 18: 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00; Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00 and before the spectacle. Autumn season starts in September. Tickets 40-120zł.

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August - September 2014

Culture & Events

Culture & Events 06.07 SUNDAY - 21.09 SUNDAY ARCHCATHEDRAL ORGAN FESTIVAL If you’re not satisﬁed with the Bach festival, don’t worry, there’s more organ music! Even if you’re not the religious type, head over to church any - or every - Sunday between July 6th and September 21st for a beautiful soul-stirring experience. Performers hail from across Europe as well.QB-2, St. John’s Cathedral, ul. Świetojańska 8, tel. (+48) 501 15 84 77, www.kapitula.org. Concerts start every Sunday at 16:00. Tickets 10zł. Available before the concerts. 02.08 SATURDAY - 30.09 TUESDAY CHINESE LANTERNS FESTIVAL A Chinese lanterns festival in Eastern Europe might strike you as one of those new-agey fads stemming from an increasingly globalised world - much like the recent rise of Holi festivals in the West. However, there is a perfect historical justiﬁcation for this event, as it relates back to King Stanisław August Poniatowski’s love for Chinese art. Indeed, the lanterns will be displayed along the Chinese Avenue in Łazienki Park (and illuminated daily until 11 pm).QG-4, Royal Łazienki Park, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Admission free.

LA PLAYA 23.05 FRIDAY - 25.09 THURSDAY LA PLAYA MUSIC BAR One of the best parts about Warsaw in summer, and what keeps everyone going in the midst of the achingly cold winters, is the seasonal La Playa Music Bar. Opening again for the eighth summer in a row it plans to be available until the first chill hits the air, which means you have plenty of summer nights to linger at this sand-filled venue. This unique music club is situated on the shores of the Vistula riverside, and it’s an attractive alternative if you’re in the capital this summer and don’t want to sip your drink while steaming amongst concrete buildings. La Playa offers the possibility to spend time outside, dance zumba, play beach volleyball, frisbee and badminton tournaments, use the skimboard track or just chill out on a deck chair. And on weekends La Playa organizes salsa themed evenings for a little culture with your cocktail. So give yourself a day off at the beach, relax with a drink and listen to chillout music and take in the view of the old town over the river. Just be sure to bring your own sunscreen or those beachy memories will be tinged with pain.QC-1, ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 331 49 75, www. laplaya.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00; Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Admission free. 22 Warsaw In Your Pocket

23.08 SATURDAY - 31.08 SUNDAY JEWISH CULTURE FESTIVAL: SINGER’S WARSAW Jewish culture festivals abound in Poland, especially in Kraków and Warsaw, both large cities with a rich Jewish history. Singer’s Warsaw - the Singer in question being Isaac Bashevis Singer, a Polish-Jewish novelist and Nobel Prize laureate - is a yearly festival of music, ﬁlm, literature, and visual arts, and this year’s edition will be heavy on theatre. One highlight will be the Polish premiere of Shohat’s Robot Planet, a play inspired by Stanisław Lem’s Fables for Robots.Qwww. festiwalsingera.pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time.

MISC. EVENTS

WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA

22.09 MONDAY AN EVENING WITH AL PACINO Interview and Q&A with Tony Montana - err, Al Pacino.That’s right, the Oscar and Golden Globe laureate, known from The Godfather trilogy, Scarface, Scent of a Woman, will be in Warsaw to talk about his life and answer your questions.This is only the ﬁrst talk in the “An Evening with...” series organised by the National Opera, which will welcome some of Hollywood’s biggest stars.QB-2, Great Theatre - National Opera, Pl. Teatralny 1, www.stageproduction.pl. Event starts at 19:30. Tickets 5002500zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

SPORT 16.08 SATURDAY SUPER MATCH: REAL MADRID CF VS. ACF FIORENTINA The World Cup may be over, but the football spectacles aren’t; head over to the National Stadium to see current UEFA champions Real Madrid battle Italian club Fiorentina. The last time Real played in Poland was six years ago, when they took on Wisła Kraków.QH-2, National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.super-mecz.pl. Event starts at 20:30. Tickets 190-950zł. Available at www. ebilet.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long occupied a prominent place in the company’s repertoire. The Warsaw Chamber Opera is the only company in the world to have Mozart’s entire operatic output in its permanent repertoire and this unprecedented achievement has won the Warsaw company-wide international recognition. In addition to this the Warsaw Chamber Opera has also organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi Festival, The Celebrations to Mark 400 Years of Opera as a Genre, and An Ode to Europe Festival.

LIVE MUSIC

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The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Classical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary composers. The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give regular concerts featuring chamber, oratorio, and symphonic music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw Chamber Opera established the Research and Documentation Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the research, publication, performance and recording of newly-discovered works by Polish composers.

24.09 WEDNESDAY - 28.09 SUNDAY CROSS CULTURE FESTIVAL Cross Culture is a music festival with the aim of opening up to cultural and artistic variety and“journeying into the most interesting musical regions”. Last year’s theme was Islands of the World, and the artists lived up to the expectation in that regard, hailing from locations as far apart as Trinidad and Tobago, Reunion, and Sardinia. This year so far only one artist has been announced - renowned African jazz trumpeter Hugh Masekela.Qwww.festival. warszawa.pl. Ticket prices undecided at press time.

01.05 THURSDAY - 04.10 SATURDAY BAROQUE ORGANS If you’re sightseeing in Warsaw and plan on visiting churches, you might as well pop in for an organ concert to complete the experience. Held in the beautiful 15thcentury St. Anne’s Church (one of the oldest buildings in the Polish capital), these concerts are both moving and very aﬀordable.QB-2, St. Anne’s Church, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, www.kapitula.org. Concerts start at 12:00 except for Sundays and holidays. Tickets 10zł. Family ticket 20zł. Available before the concert.

The Warsaw Chamber Opera was founded in 1961 by Stefan Sutkowski, who has served as its Managing and Artistic Director ever since. The company’s inaugural production, performed on the 4th September 1961, was Pergolesi’s La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986 the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes to the acoustic sound created.

STRATEGIC PARTNER

PARTNER

MEDIA PATRONAGE

Warsaw Chamber Opera is subsidised by the Mazovia Province

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New projects launched in 2013 include Friday concerts at the Royal Łazienki Museum, Wednesday concerts at the Dominican Church, the educational cycles Family Music Matinees and Opera Lovers’ Box, the Youth Theatre, and the Marionette Theatre.QA-1, Al. Solidarności 76b, tel. (+48) 22 625 75 10, www.operakameralna. pl. Box office open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 3 hours before the performance. Closed Mon. Tickets 30-130zł. August - September 2014

Culture & Events 05.09 FRIDAY - 07.09 SUNDAY INDOOR WINDSURFING Seemingly impossible? Nah, if Dubai can build and maintain an indoor ski slope, then some artiﬁcial waves at a European stadium should hardly pose a problem. 30 huge fans - the inanimate type - will provide a wind of up to 37 knots for the “ultimate indoor windsurﬁng showdown”. There will be slalom, jump, and freestyle divisions.QH2, National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.pwaworldtour.com. On Fri event starts at 17:00, Sat at 18:00 and Sun at 13:00. Tickets 20-100zł. VIP pass 699zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 20.09 SATURDAY VERVA STREET RACING Dakar is coming to the National Stadium! Quite literally. The venue will be converted to a desert-scape with sand dunes to make this year’s auto race all the more interesting. This is the biggest automotive festival in this part of Europe! Polish ski-jumper turned race car driver Adam Małysz will be there, and so should you.QH-2, National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.vervastreetracing.pl. Event starts at 14:00. Tickets 76-109zł. VIP tickets 279399zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 23.08 SATURDAY KAMILA SKOLIMOWSKA WARSAW MEMORIAL Kamila Skolimowska was a Polish hammer thrower and Olympic gold medalist who tragically died of a pulmonary embolism in 2009 - at the age of just 26. Now, for the 5th time, the athlete will be commemorated with a sports extravaganza, the biggest star of which will be no other than Usain Bolt, competing with the likes of Kim Collins and Richard Kilty.QH-2, National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.memorialkamili.pl. Event starts at 16:00. Tickets 39-199zł. Available at www.ebilet.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 30.08 SATURDAY VOLLEYBALL MEN’S WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP POLAND 2014: POLAND VS. SERBIA During the opening match for this year’s Volleyball World Championship, watch Poland destroy Serbia (or so Polish fans hope). Hey, it might not be the football world cup, but emotions are sure to run high regardless.QH-2, National Stadium, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, www.poland2014. fivb.org. Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 50-400zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). 24 Warsaw In Your Pocket

THEATRE 19.09 FRIDAY - 28.09 SUNDAY CIRQUE DU SOLEIL: KOOZA Cirque du Soleil, the absolute top-notch acrobatic circus act from Quebec, are bringing to Warsaw audiences their zany show Kooza, which tells the story of The Innocent, an introverted loner searching for his purpose in life. Here’s hoping that all goes according to plan - the company has suffered some serious accidents in recent months.QH-2, National Stadium Meadow, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1 (entrance from Al. Zieleniecka), www.cds-kooza.pl. Performance starts at 13:00 and 16:30 on September 20; 13:30 and 17:00 on September 21; 16:30 and 20:00 on September 19, 26 and 27; 19:00 on September 28; 20:00 on September 23, 24 and 25. Tickets 132-374zł. VIP tickets 795zł. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Złote Tarasy, B-3, ul. Złota 59; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00). Behind the scene tickets 1500zł. Available at www. tickets.cirquedusoleil.com.

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Restaurants

Restaurants SYMBOL KEY G No smoking

T Child-friendly

6 Animal friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

B Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled S Take away

X Smoking room available

V Home delivery

E Live music

I Fireplace

W Wi-ﬁ connection

Y WarsawPass tourist discount card

AFRICAN

C rw Cze rwo woonyy Wie W prz r

Warsaw’s come a long way fast, and nowhere is the urban vibrancy more apparent than in the city’s progressive culinary scene. Today one can find quality dining experiences from most corners of the world, though the predominance of Italian trattorias, sushi bars and designer burger joints never ceases to amaze us. As the Polish palate is developing, so too is the service industry, though gruff, ditzy, or plain incompetent service is still far too common. As regards to tipping, 10% is standard (easy math!), if a decent enough job is done. While our rigorously researched opening hours would seem self-explanatory, be aware that venues will close their doors if business is slow, and some ‘restobars’ employ different sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and most expensive main course on the menu. Below is a selection of recommendations depending what you are looking for: BUSINESS Restauracja Różana is an experienced local offering that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop, while Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as the city’s top restaurant. 99 Restaurant & Bar also continues its reign as the place of choice for many an ex-pat business meeting. CHEAP The many bar mleczny (milk bar) canteens are a sadly declining legacy of the communist past. They’re a unique Polish experience, but don’t expect culinary miracles. Do 26 Warsaw In Your Pocket

expect culinary miracles at Kaskrut though - the food looks a million dollars while strictly adhering to a ‘nothing over 29zl’ policy. COUPLES For a romantic and elegant night out Halka ticks all the right boxes, while those looking for somewhere with a more casually stylish atmosphere should try out the award winning and groundbreaking Atelier Amaro. This is Poland’s only Michelen starred restaurant so expect to pay a little more for that unforgettable dinner. KIDS Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and they do know how to make your special ones feel like Miley or Justin. Credit also goes to the children’s menu at Kuchnia Funkcjonalna, which treats the wee ones like mini-masterchefs. LADS Launch an attack on the pies, ﬁsh & chips and burgers at Legends while downing pints of Spitﬁre Ale and watching the footie, or head down to the Old Town via BrowArmia where the menu is perfectly matched to the liquid gold from the on-site microbrewery. POLSKI Eat Commie style in Czerwony Wieprz, or for a prerevolutionary and elegant take on Polish cuisine Dom Polski a class act that’s hard to beat. For a full-on rustic Polish experience in the big city, the rustic style of Zapiecek’s pierogie specialties is a good choice. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

CAFÉ BAOBAB A million miles away from its previous incarnation as Sax - the legendary down at heel haunt of poet Agnieszka Osiecka, this venue is now a Senegalese bar and restaurant. Run by former basketballer and champion cocktail mixer, Aziz, it’s a multicultural wonderland where you’re sure to ﬁnd someone who speaks your language. The bar is decorated in rich woody colours, some nice large scale photos from Senegal and piles of books about faraway places. On Thursdays a local French chap hosts board game nights, and if you’re really lucky you’ll be here for one of their splendid bimonthly outdoor African music concerts on Saturdays (starting at 17:00). The Senegalese menu isn’t half as scary as food cowards may think, with all the meat and ﬁsh dishes well worth trying.QH-3, ul. Francuska 31, tel. (+48) 22 617 40 57, www.cafebaobab. pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (28zł). 6GBSW

AMERICAN BROOKLYN RESTAURANT & BAR This classy second outing for the Brooklyn burger team takes things to a whole new level. The upstairs specialises in burgers and wings with the design paying homage to the ‘chrome and vinyl’ look of 1950’s US diners. Downstairs in Brooklyn Downtown (aka Brooklyn Restarant & Bar), a pleasant surprise awaits. A beautifully ﬁtted out dining area with a distinctively NYC/Brooklyn ambience. The open kitchen, under the control of whizz-kid chef Jan Piecuch, presents a seasonally changing menu of signature dishes inspired by both traditional and new American Cuisine. Enjoy delecious dishes accompanied by a menu of classic American drinks & cocktails while sitting at the bar watching your favorit sports on one of their many TV screens.QA-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 18, tel. (+48) 22 114 34 34, www.brooklynbw.eu. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 23:00. (26-98zł). TVEGBSW

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August - September 2014

Restaurants

BREAKFAST CLUB BUY 1 BREAKFAST SET, GET A SECOND FOR 50% OFF* *valid between 8:30 - 11:00 (Mon - Fri)

HAPPY HOURS

COCKTAIL KITCHEN COME FOR AN AFTERWORK DRINK 4 PM - 7 PM

BUY 1 DRINK - GET 1 FREE

Restaurants HARD ROCK CAFE Is there anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experienced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia, and Warsaw’s chapter is no different. The two-story venue features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws. Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled “Guns” for him and “Roses” for her. Don’t miss the weekday main+side+drink lunch special from 12:00 16:00 for 29zł.QB-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115zł). T6UGBSW KITCHEN Formerly Burger Kitchen, they appear to have lost their Burger and go by just Kitchen now. Predictably, their concept has changed slightly and they now serve much more than just hand made burgers (although they are still around as well and better then ever). They now serve up all kinds of culinary treats like grilled octopus, hand made ravioli, linguine, and small appetiser plates hailing from the Mediterranean all the way to the Far East. They jumped on the hummus train as well and offer three flavours curry, mango and beetroot. The meat of the menu are their matured steaks thought they are nicely balanced with healthy salads and sides like quinoa, edamame and other Asian accents like Shanghai steamed buns. They still serve breakfast as well and added new sets e.g. Israeli, English and Polish.QB-4, ul. Widok 8, tel. (+48) 22 464 82 84, www.kitchenrestaurant.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (20-59zł). T6UGBSW SOMEPLACE ELSE SPE has been serving up some of the best burgers in Warsaw for as long as we can remember, and a recent visit shows little has changed: the SPE Quesadilla is both epic and creative. The large, open bar is capable of mixing up anything you can think of, including a spicy bloody Mary to accompany the Sheraton’s brunch, which is served here on Sunday. Recommended particularly if you are sleeping upstairs so you won’t have far to haul your happily fed self.QC-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.someplace-else. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:30. From September open 12:00 00:30; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (38-110zł). TUEGBSW

BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER & DRINKS

+ 48 22 464 82 84 | Widok 8, 00-023 Warszawa www.kitchenrestaurant.pl 28 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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ARGENTINEAN HOŻA An Argentinean steakhouse and seafood restaurant with a classy and sensual interior; bullfight reds, polished black fixtures, stripped brickwork and bright blue paintwork blend together under the low lighting to create a nice atmosphere of old world Buenos Aires with a modern kick. Though the chef is a native Argentine, Hoża only uses Polish beef, sourced from Limousin and Angus stock, which is hung and cured in their own dry ageing room for a minimum of 12 days. Although you’ll pay a hefty 86zł for the premium sirloin steak it will certainly be one of the finest, softest, melt in the mouth hunks of meat money can buy in this part of the world. It also comes with pomme frites and a side salad. You won’t fail to notice the encyclopaedic wine list, but note that their stellar bar also includes 50 kinds of whisky.QC-4, ul. Hoża 25A, tel. (+48) 515 03 70 01, www.hoza.warszawa.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-170zł). TXSW SALTO Winner of the 2013 edition of Poland’s ‘Top Chef ’ competition, Argentinean-born Martin Gimenez Castro now heads his own signature restaurant in the city’s glamorous Art Deco Hotel Rialto. Enter via a separate door on ul. Emilii Plater and prepare to be dazzled by the modern South American cuisine on facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

offer. The fish and seafood dishes include corvina one of the most highly prized fish in South America, and fresh oysters every Thursday. Mr. Gimenez Castro’s encyclopaedic knowledge of the proper hanging and preparation of beef can be experienced by diving into the separate weekend steak menu. They also offer an extensive breakfast menu daily from 06:30 till 10:30.QF-4, ul. Wilcza 73 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 584 87 71, www. saltorestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (45-110zł). UGSW

ASIAN RAMEN BAR Specialising in bowls of steaming ramen - a hearty broth with meat and noodles, this Asian/Thai street food joint also serves up a variety of quick and tasty dishes. Those with a burning desire should head straight for the ‘Fire’ section of the menu where numerous spicy delights await. We reckon it’s all played down for the Polish market, but just add a hefty dollop of the killer sambal for a true napalm experience. The interior is a bit like a brand new garden shed with matching furniture, but be sure to clock the creepy, parody mural of Michelangelo’s ‘Creation of Adam’. QC-4, ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. (+48) 570 39 16 80. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10-35zł). 6NGBSW August - September 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants BRITISH LEGENDS BRITISH BAR & RESTAURANT Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking (and eating) man’s football watching venue of choice. Basically has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak and kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports (if the waitress can work out which channel is showing what). What it needs now are a few pints spilt on the ﬂoor and a few rowdy evenings to knock oﬀ the ‘new’ look. Find it a stone’s throw south of the Marriott hotel.QB-4, ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 10:30 - 21:00, Fri 10:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (25-50zł). TBXSW

CHINESE Business lunch

m m er g a r de ur s u n 20 PLN to o ou y 11:00 - 15:30 e t i v in From 15th April we Get take away delivered to your home, hotel or office through Royal Menu + 48 22 244 21 21, www.royalmenu.pl ul. Nowy Świat 23 tel. +48 22 826 35 01, +48 725 111 222 www.buddha.info.pl www.facebook.com/Buddha.Poland

CHINA GARDEN Excellent food served in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed Wilanów district of Warsaw. Unlike many Chinese restaurants the decoration is tastefully done with tiled floors, lanterns and lots of reds and blacks with an aquarium and fountain centrepieces. The food is authentic with a particular focus on the cuisine of the Jiangsu region and the menu offers a comprehensive choice of dishes including a beautifully presented Nanjing duck. Of note if you are visiting the palace at Wilanów, you’ll find it a 10 minute walk along Klimczaka. It’s definitely worth the walk and arguably even the cab fare from the centre, with a solid lunch special Mon-Fri from 12:00-16:30 for just 21zł. (Also check out there second location at ul. Puławska 1).Qul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 241 10 10, www.chinagarden.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (37-70zł). TUGSW

CZECH

INDIAN FOOD BRITISH STANDARDS

ITH NOW W IONING IT D N O AIR C

Al. Solidarności 129/131 Mob. +48 536 335 333 madraskuchniaindyjska 30 Warsaw In Your Pocket

U SZWEJKA This aging establishment, equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash and basic the food is ﬁne and the portions are scary. The steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards like sausages and schnitzel, and visit in summer when a terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Patience is a good tactic to use with the staﬀ, but there’s certainly no criticism of the Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by ordering in steins.QF-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (19-45zł). TEBXSW

FRENCH CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO Sinking your teeth into Charlotte’s pain au chocolate you expect to hear La Seine bubbling past, but instead it’s your waitress bringing giant jars of jams, honey and chocolate spread to dig into - this doesn’t look like typical French portion control. This French bakery/bistro is warsaw.inyourpocket.com

already a popular breakfast spot, and a communal table in the center of the restaurant is a genius solution for the many solo diners ducking in for a pastry and a latte. The service at this start-up is still spotty, but considering the crowds it’s also understandable. Charlotte is the ideal place to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feeling like le snob.QF-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 662 20 45 55, www. bistrocharlotte.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-18zł). T6GBSW LE BISTRO ROZBRAT Unpretentious, uncluttered and wickedly stylish, Le Bistro brings the tastes and ambience of an authentic Parisian eatery to Warsaw. The menu features a range of classic French dishes with contemporary tweaking kept to a minimum. The wines are all sourced by the owner directly, and the range includes some brilliant propositions from small scale vineyards specialising in traditional and organic production methods. Top off the whole ‘expérience française’ with the fact that the French owner, Alain Budzyk, is one of the most amiable and passionate hosts you will meet in the city. QG-3, ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. (+48) 692 88 72 34, www. lebistrorozbrat.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-75zł). T6GBSW LE VICTORIA BRASSERIE MODERNE Located inside the Victoria Hotel, Le Brasserie sparkles with a sophisticated colour scheme of beige, creams and greys. Black and white light ﬁttings, orange highlights, window-like mirrors and comfy geometric seating add a warm and spacious feel to Didier Gomez’s design. The slick open kitchen area draws your eye to the work of chef Maciej Majewski and his team as they prepare seasonally adjusted dishes based on classic and modern brasseriestyle French cuisine. Prices are seriously competitive with nearby restaurants, making it an attractive proposition for a stylish and upmarket dinner date or business lunch.QB-3, ul. Królewska 11, tel. (+48) 22 657 83 82, www.sofitelvictoria-warsaw.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (16-75zł). TUGSW

FUSION FUSION Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet, interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep happy local foodies coming back for more. Don’t miss their Business Lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 starting at 29zł.QA-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 21 (The Westin Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion. pl. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30; Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:30; Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 13:00 - 22:30. (45-150zł). TUGSW facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

® N CUISINE IN WARSAW

IA TIC IND AUTHEN

ul. Nowogrodzka 15 +48 22 357 09 39 Mon-Sat 11.00-22.00, Sun 12.00-22.00 info@namasteindia.pl | www.namasteindia.pl

Geniune home-cooked Vietnamese food in the heart of Warsaw. Our Vietnamese chefs will take you on an extraordinary culinary journey. We invite you to our VIP lounge and karaoke nights...

ul. Hoża 27a www.hoza4seasons.pl hozafourseasons tel. (+48) 22 400 27 32

August - September 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants NORMA Set close to the National Theatre and Opera house, Norma bravely crosses the culinary arts of Poland and Italy and presents a concise and interesting seasonally-adjusted menu. Dishes like ravioli ﬁlled with Polish white sausage, or the refreshing curly kale, hulled barley and lemon grass salad. Choose to sit at the high tables by the bar and ogle the shelves of wine, or venture into the two classy dining rooms. If you can’t decide, try the cosy upstairs level which features a mix of both seating styles. Kooky enlargements of antique animal and bird illustrations add a touch of surreal quirkiness to the relaxing interior space.QB-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 30, www.restauracjanorma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-61zł). T6GBSW

GALICIAN C.K. OBERŻA Budget priced dinners, pints of lager and a bubbly atmosphere come presented inside a basic room decked out in dark woods. The menu is all pork chops, potato pancakes and plates of animals, and happily consumed by crowds who recognise a serious bargain.QB-4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22 828 45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Open 11:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (27-80zł). BXS

INDIAN BUDDHA INDIAN RESTAURANT Buddha really impressed when they opened up a couple of years back giving us very good Indian food right in the heart of the city. The decor is lush and extravagant, and the curries follow a similar suit with a spicy slap that puts them at the top of our list. The rest of the menu is monstrous, but helpfully benchmarked with symbols for hot, vegetarian and even kid-friendly dishes.QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. (+48) 22 826 35 01, www.buddha.info.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30-130zł). TUGBSW MADRAS This brightly decorated and dimly lit restaurant may well be one of the smallest curry houses you ever visit - the downstairs area hosts a staggering two tables with a further four at the top of the mini staircase - but the simply presented and extremely well priced meals on the extensive menu are outstanding. A big hit with locals and the ex-pat curry fetish fraternity, we visited early on a Sunday afternoon and the place was packed. It’s easy enough to find a more elegant and significantly more expensive Indian restaurant in Warsaw, but the quality of the food makes this tiny restaurant HUGE!QE-2, Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. (+48) 536 33 53 33. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (20-60zł). TGS NAMASTE INDIA What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store soon expanded into a full-on ethnic restaurant and proved so popular that a second location was needed to meet the demand for delicious Indian cuisine. For office workers around town, this - the original Namaste - remains the best, and we’ll agree that it simply doesn’t get much better for Indian food in the 32 Warsaw In Your Pocket

warsaw.inyourpocket.com

capital. Better still, the prices are set so low you can’t help but ask what’s the catch. There isn’t one; we’ve tried pretty much everything on the menu, and have yet to find a weak link. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture.QC-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-40zł). TUNGBSW RAIN BY INDIA CURRY Neatly tucked back from the main drag on ul. Żurawia, Rain manages to combine a comprehensive range of Indian dishes with a short fusion and international based menu. This mixed menu makes it the ideal place to dine for curry fiends who are happy to have a few non-worshippers tagging along in the group. The fusion suggestions include a few dishes with hints of Indian flavours for those who simply can’t make up their minds; like the tandoori fish with ginger straws and vegetables. The interior consists of two seating areas separated by a nice bar space, which is designed so that you can also just drop in for a wicked ‘pick-me-up’ from the well above-average cocktail list.QC-4, ul. Żurawia 22, tel. (+48) 22 438 93 50, www.rain.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30. (32-60zł). TUGBSW SHEESHA LOUNGE It’s been a while coming but the lads from Sheesha have finally made the move from their much loved previous site on ul. Sienkiewicza to this three level site directly behind the city centre Novotel. The fit out is a jewel of Middle Eastern promises and the second you enter you feel you’ve been transported into a sultry world of wonder; Arabic fixtures and fittings, the sweet smell of shisha, dim lighting, a laid back atmosphere and a majestic menu of Middle Eastern, Indian and fusion cuisine make it a tranquil daytime oasis in the heart of town. In order to find out why we say ‘tranquil daytime oasis’, check out our clubs section listing for Sheesha. QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 828 25 25, www. sheesha.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (28-48zł). TEBXSW

Traditional Polish cuisine

Best venison and lamb in Warsaw Live music Regional wine, beer and spirits Grand Cupboard - 16 years full of tradition

INTERNATIONAL 12 STOLIKÓW If the idea of a restaurant not having a menu sounds pretentious, well, we thought the same thing. Fortunately the concept turns out to be charming at 12 Stolików, a small restaurant that writes the ever-changing offerings on a chalkboard facing diners. Waitresses are happy to interpret, and though the transient system means you might not get the delicious white bean cream soup that we did, their quality indicates you can’t go wrong. The high ceilings and stacks of wine crates are all that pass for décor, but we couldn’t take our eyes off the chef tempering chocolate on the centre island - call it dinner and show. And we’re not the only ones who think so: 12 Stolików was named one of the top five restaurants in Warsaw in 2011 by Gazeta Wyborcza newspaper.QF-3, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 795 37 38 15. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2570zł). T6UGSW facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111, Warsaw tel. +48 22 629 80 08, Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl, www.kredens.com.pl August - September 2014

Restaurants BROWARMIA Warsaw’s other microbrewery tends to mysteriously live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle, and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival, BrowArmia is by no means second best. The interior has a dark beer hall vibe with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks on display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competition - the sticky wings pair perfectly with a BrowArmia pils. More importantly the beer is top standard and best imbibed on the seasonal terrace looking onto bustling Krakowskie Przedmieście.QB-3, ul. Królewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 54 55, www.browarmia. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (27-66zł). TUEBXSW FIVE Guaranteed a steady flow of customers by its designer looks and top location amongst Warsaw’s biggest and best hotels, this place doesn’t have to be all that good, but is. In fact, recent visits have made us love the place all over again, as the menu of simple Italian classics always delivers a decent meal at a fair price. Look out for the changing specials, which on our last trip included some terrific grilled salmon with leek sauce. A 19zl lunch special from 12:00-16:00 gets you soup and a main, and note to parents with tots: there’s a children’s playground available for your wee ones every Sunday.QA-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53, www.fiverestaurant.eu. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (22-49zł). TUVGBSW GRAND KREDENS Few places in Warsaw match this for a fine, dare we say splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously, enjoyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terrific variety of fish (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the challenge of its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has been around Warsaw longer than we have and it’s a treat.QA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. (+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (30-100zł). T6UEGBSW KASKRUT Small venue with big ideas! Although we suspect the modest, enthusiastic and friendly French owner would play down the big ideas part, the truth is this is one of the most innovative and experimental eateries in town. The three starters/three mains/three desserts menu changes every two weeks and consists of flavour and ingredient combinations which at first glance may look bonkers, but in the end you’ll feel silly for ever having questioned them. We had salmon, caramelised pineapple and harissa served in flat bread and an amazing dessert which included aubergine and halva foam served with meringue. Marvel at the easygoing team’s skills by seating yourself down in front of the open kitchen. If all of this wasn’t enough we later found out that the change the menu every week! Considering the whirlwind of innovation, it’s impressive that nothing on the menu costs over 30zl.QB-4, ul. Poznańska 5, tel. (+48) 22 622 54 38. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. (19-30zł). 6GBW 34 Warsaw In Your Pocket

KUCHNIA FUNKCJONALNA Seconds away from the hectic Washington roundabout, it’s difficult to believe how tranquil and relaxed this place is. A prime example of Functionalism designed in 1928 by Czesław Przybylski for the sculptor Mieczysław Lubelski, this smallish restaurant is an unusually harmonious blend of rustic, modern and industrial elements. The short menu offers a seasonally changing selection of European-style dishes mixed with a healthy dose of Polish ingenuity and locally sourced produce. The staff are some of the best we have come across in Warsaw - helpful and extremely knowledgeable about all aspects of the menu. Also, check out the BWA and Asymetria art galleries which are based in the building.Qul. Jakubowska 16 lok.7 (Praga Południe, entrance from ul. Estońska), tel. (+48) 512 89 38 98. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (25-60zł). T6GBSW MEAT LOVE The audacious name would suggest a barbarian bone-sucking, finger-licking orgy of dripping meat juice (to us, anyway), but the reality is a woodsy, intimate, eco-minded sandwich shop that effectively reclaims hipsterdom from the vegans (though we’ve spotted two vegetarian options on the menu). Meat Love’s specialty is fresh rolls and baguettes stuffed with tender, organic, hormone-free carnivorous delicacies, and there’s a good selection of teas, coffee and other drinks to accompany them (whiskey anyone?!). One also can’t help but admire the simple genius of their Belgian waffle topped with pulled pork and maple syrup. The staff have all the hallmarks a hip urbanite should: tattoos and studs, scraggly beards and suave haircuts, but the atmosphere is familyfriendly and completely sincere. A great addition to the neighbourhood, in fact it’s places like this that create the illusion pocket neighbourhoods even exist in the capital.QB-4, ul. Hoża 62/2, tel. (+48) 22 404 67 36, www.meatlove.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (13-20zł). 6GBSW NATU REST & WINE The locavore trend has finally taken off in Warsaw and new places sporting locally sourced slow food seem to be popping up like so many organic mushrooms after a storm. This bright and attractive cafe and restaurant has jumped on the bandwagon and they boast a daily menu of rotating specials all composed of the finest and freshest local ingredients. While the cuisine appears mostly Polish derived they appear to be pursuing something along the lines of pan-Slavic fusion. Of course many other flavours and inspirations find their way into their creative kitchen as well. To top it all off they offer a full array of craft beers, organic beverages and of course, wines.QE-2, ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. (+48) 506 51 11 46. Open 09:00 - 22:00. (19-32zł). T6UVGBSW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Restaurants RESTAURACJA KULTURA On the ground ďŹ&#x201A;oor of the Kino Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest locations on all Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use of the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings. Smart waitresses wearing freshly starched aprons will bring a bowl of chĹ&#x201A;odnik with crayďŹ sh to your table before presenting you with a bill that should, given quality, be far higher.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie PrzedmieĹ&#x203A;cie 21/23, tel. (+48) 784 04 40 51, www. restauracjakultura.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 24:00. (36-62zĹ&#x201A;). TGBSW RESTAURACJA WILANĂ&#x201C;W An extraordinary excursion back to the days of a planned Polish economy, this much talked about classy restaurant serves a range of international and Polish food in a blast to the past atmosphere. Despite what they say about the place thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no ignoring the service. Breathtakingly snobby, expect to be treated like something the cat dragged in if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not dressed for the opera.Qul. S. K. Potockiego 27 (WilanĂłw), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www. restauracjawilanow.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-58zĹ&#x201A;). 6GBS RESTAURANT JASNA 24 The great thing about Jasna 24 is the fact that the chef has managed to come up with an excellent, unique and forward-thinking menu which changes with the seasons. Add to this the fact that they have a rather good wine list and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highly unlikely that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be disappointed. Enjoy an exotic mix of dishes (it would be folly to name any as they change often) in a well-designed, modern setting with some cool mood-lighting adding to the atmosphere. The charming and professional staďŹ&#x20AC; are well versed in the expression â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;attention to detailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.QB-3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48) 22 447 24 41, www.jasna24.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (22-65zĹ&#x201A;). GBSW

AN ESSENCE OF ITALIAN TASTE IN WARSAW XO :LOF]D Ĺ? WHO UHVWDXUDFMD#JLDQFDUOR SO ZZZ UHVWDXUDFMDJLDQFDUOR SO ZZZ JLDQFDUOR SO *LDQFDUOR5LVWRUDQWH 36 Warsaw In Your Pocket

SAM BAKERY & RESTAURANT Fresh baked bread, plentiful salads, a shop with organic herbs and superfoods like acai...itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s safe to say that SAM has arrived in Warsaw with some strong credentials, and after our visit we can declare it the Charlotte of the student set. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ďŹ nd the same lackadaisical service and hipster clientele as the popular Pl. Zbawiciela hotspot, and if you can overlook these ďŹ&#x201A;aws youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be delighted with healthy dishes that ensure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll forever be able to squeeze into those skinny jeans.QC-2, ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. (+48) 600 80 60 84, www.sam.info.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (15-35zĹ&#x201A;). T6UGSW SKANDAL BISTROBAR The name may summon up visions of some unsavoury Newcastle backstreet nightclub, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a nice surprise to ďŹ nd that Skandal is in fact a rather trendy and relaxing bistrobar; honestly, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diďŹ&#x192;cult to expect anything less from the crew that also runs the legendary Leniviec on ul. PoznaĹ&#x201E;ska. Smarter than its older brother, this funky split level venue features a quality European menu, rustic displays of breads, warsaw.inyourpocket.com

pastries, muďŹ&#x192;ns and a small deli area selling mainly Mediterranean products. The basement room has a ďŹ ne wine bar with an on-hand sommelier dishing out advice and recommendations.QF-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. (+48) 22 350 04 44, www.skandalbistrobar.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (20-40zĹ&#x201A;). T6GBSW SKWER - FILIA CENTRUM ARTYSTYCZNEGO FABRYKA TRZCINY If location is everything then Skwer is the place to be. Commanding a prime spot on Krakowskie PrzedmieĹ&#x203A;cie a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw from the presidential place it looks like an architectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s show-home yet manages to create a decent atmosphere thanks to the students who ďŹ&#x201A;ock here for coďŹ&#x20AC;ee after lectures. By night the crowd gets trendier as local arty-types turn up to be seen eating the well-priced food through the glass walls.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie PrzedmieĹ&#x203A;cie 60a, tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. (18-39zĹ&#x201A;). TUGBSW

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Senses is about being honest and emotional about the food. Using the finest produce we are innovative and modern yet surprisingly familiar." Andrea Camastra Chef de Cuisine

SOLEC 44 Solec 44 marries two of the best things around at one location: delicious food and the joy of beating the crap out of your friends at board games. Come for the grub - which is a delectable menu of fresh, local and seasonal options plus hearty sandwiches - but stay for the chance to crack into Settlers of Catan or Scrabble with a beer in hand. The space itself (which can be tough to ďŹ nd and is tucked behind a kebab shop) is sprawling and ideal for long evenings of dice rolling, especially when the sun stays out so late. QG-2, ul. Solec 44, tel. (+48) 798 36 39 96, www.solec. waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (25-90zĹ&#x201A;). T6GBSW STARA KAMIENICA Located in a secessionist-era townhouse in the city centre, at ďŹ rst glance, Stara Kamienica comes across as a 1920â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s furnished and dark wood detailed traditional restaurant. Chandeliers, vases of fresh ďŹ&#x201A;owers, chintzy curtains, art deco mirrors and subdued lighting give the venue a quiet, old-world charm but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also more than that; changing art exhibitions, live monthly acoustic music evenings with an Irish and country blues feel and an interesting menu of traditional Polish and French classic dishes with a modern twist. Extra Brownie points for using the proper name of zander instead of pike-perch in the ďŹ sh section!Qul. Widok 8, tel. (+48) 22 690 67 67, www.stara-kamienica. com.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (30-79zĹ&#x201A;). 6GBSW STREFA RESTAURANT & BAR Situated in a sympathetically restored townhouse on one of the most atmospheric and historic little streets in Warsaw, Strefa oozes old style glamour from the exterior and a cool, modern, whitewashed brick and pale colour scheme interior. Nothing is over the top and the more informal bistro/bar area compliments the stunningly designed restaurant room beautifully. The kitchen in the main restaurant is helmed by award winning chef JarosĹ&#x201A;aw Walczyk and specialises in seafood and ďŹ sh signature dishes as well as facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

"Modern, Polish inspired cuisine."

12 BielaĹ&#x201E;ska Street, Warsaw (â&#x20AC;&#x17E;Senatorâ&#x20AC;? building ) P: + 48 22 331 96 97 M: +48 733 390 000 @: restaurant@sensesrestaurant.pl www.sensesrestaurant.pl Senses-Restaurant

August - September 2014

Restaurants

Polish Cuisine

Restaurants a range of Italian and Polish based options. The ambience, quality and standard of service more than justify the borderline high prices (prices range from 25-110zł). The Bistro side offers a separate more affordable menu (4-60zł) and is open Daily 10:30 - 24:00.QF-2, ul. Próżna 9, tel. (+48) 22 255 08 50, www.restauracjastrefa.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. T6UGBSW WILCZY GŁÓD This subtly stylish resto-bar lives up to the hype of the new wave of Warsaw gastro-pubs to tout locally-sourced organic products and constantly changing seasonal menus. The kitchen boldly combines flavours found in Polish forests and fields with more sophisticated fare from afar. The fixed lunch and ala carte dinner offerings are friendly for both carnivores and vegetarians and features dishes like nettle soup, beef cheeks with caramelised onion in nutmeg and rhubarb mousse. In the evening make sure to drop by with some friends and bond over some lighter fare with a glass of local brew, organic wine something else equally divine. QF-3, ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. (+48) 22 891 02 85. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. (23-42zł). 6GBSW WINESTONE The Mercure Hotel’s concept restaurant has proven itself a popular venue for the local business set. The name ‘Winestone’ comes from the menu’s selection of ‘Les Planches’ dishes served on simple stone tablets, and the incredible range of fine wines in stock here. The menu also covers a range of seasonally changing international and French style dishes, as well as some modern interpretations of Polish classics. Presentation is slick and the staff are wonderfully polite and professional. The relaxing and modern interior is perfectly unstuffy and features Warsaw’s must have restaurant design element of the year - the open kitchen. There is also a shop for taking home olives, wine and bread of your own following your meal.QA-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. (+48) 22 697 37 55, www.mercure.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (14-69zł). TUGSW

Restauracja Dawne Smaki ul. Nowy Świat 49, 00-042 Warszawa Tel: +48 22 465 83 20 info@dawnesmaki.pl www.dawnesmaki.pl DawneSmakiRestauracjaPolska 38 Warsaw In Your Pocket

WINIARNIA RESTAURACJA SUPERIORE This recently relocated restaurant and Wine bar inds itself a few doors down from Krystyna Janda’s (just nod and pretend you know that she’s a very famous Polish actress) Teatr Polonia, making it an excellent choice for a few preperformance aperitifs and a bite to eat. The interior is slick rustic with the shelves of wine bottles making up much of the décor. Italian wines take priority here, but you’ll also find a good selection of Spanish and Austrian wines. The heavenly aromas wafting from the kitchen will pull you, trance-like, towards the menu. Regional Wednesdays serves up dishes from a different region every week and Fridays see an ever-changing seafood menu with fresh catches brought in weekly - everything from mussels and oysters to fish and octopus! They serve breakfast Mon- Fri 09:00 - 12:00;Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Prices for breakfast start from 9 zł.QF-4, ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. (+48) 506 40 40 59. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (25-60zł). TVEGSW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

ŻURAWINA REST & WINE Stylish and spacious, this upscale resto wine bar looks like it should be attached to a modern art museum and is about as fashionable as they come, while still maintaining a level of casual comfort that won’t put off those of us who don’t spend half our paychecks on our hair. Post-modernist paintings and slick plastic seating are off-set by elegant place settings, fresh flowers and gorgeously presented dishes. Choose from sexy drinks and desserts, or dive into to-diefor dishes. The place of choice for well-bred Varsovians on rich dates, business meetings and mixers, in the evening it’s a great cocktail and wine bar.QB-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. (+48) 22 521 06 66, www.zurawina.eu. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 22:00. (34-68zł). T6EGBSW

LITTLE SICILY

IN THE HEART OF WARSAW

ITALIAN DZIURKA OD KLUCZA Pixie-sized family run restaurant located on a lovely pre-war street in Powiśle. With everything handmade on the premises, Agnieszka and Stanisław Szpilowscy have successfully turned their passion for pasta into a full-time business. The process is on full view thanks to the open kitchen and nattering away with the cooks while they work makes for a friendly and casual atmosphere. ‘Dziurka od Klucza’ means ‘keyhole’ and much of the interior is made up of old doors and any opportunity to add a key to the décor isn’t missed. Slightly mummsy violet and lavender pastel colours help to make the place look bigger than it actually is; in fact, it’s best to avoid if you suﬀer from claustrophobia!QC-3, ul. Radna 13, tel. (+48) 500 15 04 94, www.dziurkaodklucza.com. pl. Open 12:00 - 21:30. (19-40zł). T6GBSW

“TRATTORIA DA ANTONIOITALIAN FLAVORS AND SICILIAN TEMPERAMENT” Welcome to our newly opened Italian restaurant, which is guided by one maxim: “La famiglia è il più importante” - Family is most important and our guests are our “famiglia”!

GIANCARLO RISTORANTE ITALIANO One only need mention the name Giancarlo Russo to any of the legions of Italophiles in Warsaw to get them salivating at the mouth. His knowledge of the culinary arts of Italy is second to none, with notable moments in his career including preparing dinners for John Paul II and Benedict XVI, his own TV show and an entry in the Guinness book of records for preparing the world’s largest Italian mushroom dish! The traditionally styled three roomed restaurant includes the popular ‘grotto’ room with its aquatic cave-like atmosphere, subdued lighting and Hessian covered seating. The food is fantastico with loads of fresh seafood dishes served daily. And don’t miss their delicious summer lunch sets (Mon - Fri 12:00 - 16:00) for only 11.90zł!QC-4, ul. Wilcza 8, tel. (+48) 22 126 31 66, www.giancarlo.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (15-70zł). T6GBW LA PANCIA PIENA This neat little Italian eatery is located in the rapidly developing suburb of Bemowo, previously known as “the bedroom of Warsaw.” La Pancia Piena (The Full Belly) presents a full range of Italian dishes and is particularly well known for its thin crust pizzas. The list of 42 pizzas will play havoc with your eyes, but fans of our ﬂat friend hold the authenticity in high regard. The interior is a homely, cosy and traditional facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

ul. Żurawia 20, Warsaw Tel. +48 22 625 54 17 biuro@trattoriadaantonio.pl www.trattoriadaantonio.pl August - September 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants aﬀair and the seasonal garden area out-front make it the ideal place to chill-out on a warm summer’s evening.Qul. Pełczyńskiego 32 lok. U9 (Bemowo), tel. (+48) 530 63 63 66. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 20:30. (20-60zł). TGBS

SOPHISTICATED FLAVORS, JAPANESE MINIMALISM AND ELEGANCE

MERCATO (ITALIAN DELI/BISTRO) A traditionally designed Italian bistro and deli with the added authenticity of a mixed clientele of diners, shoppers, manic staﬀ and a constant air of something’s going on but you’re never quite sure what. Rather than being annoying, it’s all quite fun. The deli section is stocked with a great range of products sourced mainly from small scale regional producers in Italy. The kitchen uses the products available from the shelves, fridges and hanging from meat-hooks in the extensive range of bruschetta, panini and salads on oﬀer. We recommend the extremely popular, well-priced and ever changing two course hot lunch deal. Check out their new location on ul. Piękna 15 (F-4).QB-3, ul. Próżna 7, tel. (+48) 509 00 78 03. Open 08:30 - 22:00, Fri 08:30 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (14-39zł). 6GBS NEW RISTORANTE IL CAVALIERE While others may spend their time trying to create the most modern and trend setting restaurant interior in town, owner and head chef Cristiano Pedrotti prefers to concentrate on a traditional yet elegant aesthetic, a homely atmosphere and an extensive menu of classic Italian cuisine. The menu also features some less well known dishes from the chefs home region of Lombardy, in particular from around the Valtelline valley. Try the Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese - an unusual combination of buckwheat noodles, cabbage, potatoes and Casera cheese which is popular amongst the skiers of the area, so probably not the best choice during the summer months.QB-4, ul. Hoża 43/49 lok. 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 00 20, www.ristorante-ilcavaliere.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (35-58zł). TUGBSW

ul. Krucza 41/43 Tel. +48 (22) 628 92 74 wabu@wabu.pl www.wabu.pl Opening hours: 12:00 – 23:00

40 Warsaw In Your Pocket

and elegant. The menu itself is encyclopaedic - we’re talking three pages of pastas - enabling Roma to build a loyal fan base across the years. We’re fans of the onion and truffle cream soup, especially on rainy days, and if you like strings of mozzarella dangling from your lips we’re fairly certain you will too.QG-5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, tel. (+48) 22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (2663zł). TGSW ROMA BUKIETERIA Pasta might be the kind of thing you’re used to gorging on, but not here. Roma Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere - - think candles, terracotta and heavy wood tables - - so bring your best manners and your latest date. The only place with a larger selection of pasta has to be Rome itself, so take your time when sorting through the massive menu. It may look like a small trattoria, but the wine list suggests seasoned pros who will ensure a charming date. QC-4, ul. Mokotowska 49a, tel. (+48) 22 621 03 11, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (24-69zł). T6GSW TRATTORIA DA ANTONIO Sicilian born chef Antonio Centurrino has been a fixture in Warsaw’s Italian culinary scene for as long as we can remember and his fans will be delighted with his latest venture on ul. Zurawia. The main room is an open, spacious and bright area, while the second space has more of an intimate taverna feel. Being Italian, family plays an important role in the proceedings, so a third room is kitted out as a play room for kids. As well as a whole host of classics, the comprehensive menu also features some house specials, like marinated swordfish carpaccio.QC-4, ul. Żurawia 18, tel. (+48) 22 625 54 17, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (30-60zł). T6GBSW TRATTORIA RUCOLA Trattoria Rucola has taught us a simple truth: we’d surely eat more salads if they all came with smoky bacon. The smell of garlic wafting onto Krakowskie Przedmieście will undoubtedly lure you in, the strange leafy décor will encourage you to grab a table and the hefty menu of Italian staples will mean a certain belt-loosening. Thirty pizzas dominate the menu, but we were intrigued by the rare sighting of doughy calzones. The aforementioned salads are soaked in a lush balsamic dressing that no one should be ashamed to lick from their fingers (we did). Also at (H-3), ul. Francuska 6 and (C-4), ul. Krucza 6/14.QB-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel. (+48) 888 57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (22-59zł). TVGBSW

RISTORANTE REPUBBLICA ITALIANA Busy Italian restaurant close to the National Stadium. Fresh and light interior and a comprehensive menu featuring seafood, meats, pastas, ravioli and salads. Tempting as everything is, it’s nigh on impossible not to hit the pizza menu. Long regarded as one of the best pizza places on this side of the river, the dough is thin, not burnt to a crisp and the amounts of sauce and toppings are just right. In the summer months Repubblica is blessed with having an outdoor terrace surrounding three sides of the restaurant and judging by its popularity it really is one of THE places to be seen on Saska Kępa’s high street.QH-3, ul. Francuska 44, tel. (+48) 22 465 81 83, www.repubblicaitaliana.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30-64zł). TGBSW

JAPANESE

ROMA Attention to detail is apparent at Roma, and every aspect of this secretive restaurant hints at the neighbourhood locales you’d ﬁnd in the side alleys of Italy. The interior is intimate

We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restaurants such has been the explosion of them in recent years. This is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know about but you are likely to ﬁnd somewhere serving sushi in every major mall these days.

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August - September 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants BESUTO Besuto has moved from among the prefab cabins and ramshackle pavilions inside Nowy Świat 22 to a more visible location just down the street at 27. The good news is the sushi, which has historically been very decent hot and cold cuts prepared in front of your eyes, is still reliably delicious, and the new storefront is significantly less likely to make your date question your commitment - - the interior also gets marks for being bright and modern. The bad news is that a better location means higher prices than Besuto loyalists might be used to, but it’s worth it to dig a little deeper. QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 20, www. besuto.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (21-52zł). T6VGBSW ICHIBAN SUSHI A fine city centre location for this small sushi bar chain. Small is the key word here, not helped by the addition of an upper level, which makes the ground level area feel very low and claustrophobic. The walls are totally covered in Japanese calligraphy, making you feel like you are having your eyes tested by a rather thorough Tokyo optician. Having said that, the menu is fairly extensive and the miso soup garners high praise from those in the know. Due to the ever-changing promotions and voucher schemes, Ichiban is fantastically popular amongst the lunchtime ‘eat something quick and get back to the office’ crowd. Well priced and good quality, but not a place to visit for a special dinner date.QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 61, tel. (+48) 22 692 45 45, www.ichibansushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). UVGSW INABA Here’s a restaurant that was around years before sushi became a fashion statement. Japanese owned and run everything about Inaba strives for authenticity, and this is one of only three places in town that can claim a Japanese master chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A pleasantly panelled interior creates a great atmosphere and those who want more than just raw fish should take a look at the grill dishes (be sure to try the salmon in teriyaki sauce).QB-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. (+48) 22 622 59 55, www.inaba.pl. Open 11:30 - 22:00. (25-58zł). TVGSW KIKU JAPANESE DINING GALLERY Our advice when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet decorated place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for the noodle menu. Never before in this city have we eaten such fresh, spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at Kiku. At around 25zł a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and the seafood ones are best - represents terrific value.QB-2, ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (25-65zł). UVGBSW OTO!SUSHI One of our favorite sushi spots in Warsaw. Sure, the location helps - who can argue with sitting outside on swanky Nowy Świat? - but the helpful staff, great tea options and fair prices put it squarely on top. A vegetarian sushi set for

42 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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two with 22 pieces ranging from kappa maki to inari was tops, and the tempura is crispy rather the soggy we often encounter. Ducking in for a lunch special will get you heaps of fresh sushi along with miso soup, a salad and green tea for a reasonable price. The small storefront means you may have to fight for a seat, though.QF-3, ul. Nowy Świat 46, tel. (+48) 22 828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-60zł). VGBSW PATERA COCKTAIL & SUSHI BAR Thinking well outside of the sushi box, this innovatively styled restaurant with its glossy tiles, semi-industrial fittings, graphic symbols and a brilliant bar canopy (made entirely from coca-cola crates) appears to have more in common with a PRL milk bar or a hipsterish retro café. The menu features an impressive sushi list, a host of hot Thai dishes and a dizzying range of alcohols - including their auteur cocktails with names like “The Punisher” and Sushi Mule. Daily food and drink deals like half price beers on Mondays and 30% off Thai dishes on Thursdays have already helped establish a steady clientele.QF-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. (+48) 535 33 31 23, www.patera.com.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (25-59zł). UVEGBSW RYŻ I RYBA Congratulations are due to this sushi bar for being one of the only Japanese eateries we can think of whose name doesn’t end in the letters ‘o’ or ‘i;’ instead they’ve gone for the straight-forward ‘Ryż i Ryba’ (Rice & Fish). This smart little place is situated close to the famous Plac Konstytucji at the entrance to the Piękna 20 modern office block and attracts many of the suited and booted class from the building. All the old favourites are on the menu, freshly prepared by the Polish trained sushi masters. Belonging to the same owners as the ever popular Piękna Bistro next door, you can expect to have some cool jazz piped through the sound system while you twiddle your chopsticks.QF/G4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627 41 50, www.ryziryba. pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (12-42zł). T6UVGBSW SOTO SUSHI Warsaw’s Sushi glitterati have always rated the original Soto Sushi on Al. KEN very highly indeed, with many devotees regularly making the pilgrimage to deepest, darkest Ursynów in order to visit their favourite shrine. Well, now they don’t need to bother, Soto have opened another branch in the centre of the city! The crisp white and minimal interior highlighted with pale green neon wall lighting makes for a rather sterile look which made me think of those ultraviolet fly zappers in butcher’s shops, probably just my overactive imagination though. On the other hand, the overall look of this sushi bar presents a feeling of cleanliness and order which is reflected in the beautifully presented and carefully prepared sushi. The salmon tartare gunkanmaki is yummy and a special mention has to be made for the killer lemon pepper shrimp soup.QC-4, ul. Wilcza 26, tel. (+48) 22 629 94 85, www.sotosushi.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (15-56zł). TVGBSW facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

Restaurant Literatka is pleased to invite you for delicious dishes of traditional Polish and international cuisine.

ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 87/89, Warsaw Tel. +48 22 497 57 72 Tel./fax. +48 22 827 30 54 e-mail: biuro@literatka.com.pl www.literatka.com.pl August - September 2014

Restaurants

SILK SUSHI

& THAI

Restaurants

SPICY RESTAURANT

Silk & Spicy is a beautiful and delicious destination that connects the two exotic world cuisines of Thailand and Japan. The Philosophy of Silk & Spicy: food determines your consciousness, pleasure and harmony.

TOMO SUSHI Many claim you won’t find better sushi in Warsaw, and who are we to argue with the masses. Tomo’s reputation is well earned, and as such don’t be surprised to be knocking elbows with sushi snobs showing off deft chopstick moves. QC-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434 23 44, www. tomo.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (45-80zł). 6UGBSW NEW WABU SUSHI BAR Wabu has no set menu and no fiddling around with hot dishes, instead the sushi masters on hand chat with the clientele and come up with creative compositions matched to the individual. Discretely colour coded plates make it simplicity itself to keep track of what price range you’re manoeuvring around. The team also works closely with a sommelier to match drinks to the different flavours - including two specially selected champagnes. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem. A nice touch is the fact that they left an original communist era abstract mosaic on the wall which blends in with the zen-like atmosphere perfectly. QC-4, ul. Krucza 41/43 (corner of Żurawia), tel. (+48) 22 628 92 74, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. UGW WASABI Located in the stunning Metropolitan building, designed by Sir Norman Foster, Wasabi is a smart and tranquil sushi restaurant in one of the city’s more upmarket areas. As well as an extensive range of freshly prepared sushi, the menu also offers a fine selection of Korean and Japanese hot dishes including bulgogi (fried marinated beef with vegetables) and the heavenly fried duck in a teriyaki sauce. A selection of Japanese beers, plum wines and sake complement the dishes perfectly. For maximum effect and a more intimate dining experience try to grab a space in the enclosed floor seating area.QB-2, Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. (+48) 22 314 69 63, www.restauracjawasabi.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (8-55zł). 6UVGBSW

KOSHER

ul. Żurawia 16/20 00-515 Warsaw, Poland tel.: (+48) 22 629 70 12 email: biuro@silkandspicy.pl www.silkandspicy.pl / silkandspicy 44 Warsaw In Your Pocket

GALIL Housed in one of the beautiful old townhouses on ul. Zielna, bordering the area of the former Warsaw Ghetto, Galil’s menu is a rich and wonderful fusion of Israeli, Arabic, Mediterranean and Polish inﬂuences. The restaurant holds a kosher certiﬁcate from Rabbi Yosef Karasik and all products and food preparation adhere to the strict Orthodox standards of Kashrut. Splash out on one of the house specialities like the succulent red wine and thyme marinated entrecote served with Lyonnaise potatoes and a fattoush salad, or the date syrup glazed chicken breast. The drinks list includes kosher spirits from the famous Strykover distillery near Łódź.In addition to the elegant main dining area, the restaurant also has two rooms which can be reserved for a more private dining experience.QF-2, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 731 49 26 34, www.galil-restaurant.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 23:00. Closed Fri, Sat. (34-75zł). TUBXSW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

LEBANESE LE CEDRE 84 This popular Middle Eastern staple hops across the river to a more accessible location at the intersection of Jana Pawła and al. Solidarności and thankfully brings all their reliably exotic ﬂavours along too. The interior is a magenta masterpiece and sets the scene for you and your Scheherazade to explore the hefty menu. Our recommendation: though we’re fans of the entrees like shawarma your best bet is to mix and match hot and cold starters, of which there’s a dazzling array (stuﬀed grape leaves and grilled halloumi top our list).QA-3, Al. Solidarności 84, tel. (+48) 22 618 89 99, www.lecedre. pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (32-59zł). TVGBSW

MEDITERRANEAN NEW DWIE TRZECIE A large and exciting L-shaped restaurant featuring a signature, Mediterranean inspired, menu devised by award winning head chef Marcin Jabłoński. Ingredients used in the kitchen are sourced from local, ecologically certified producers - including daily supplies from the highly regarded and well established Jabłoński family’s own fertile lands. Innovative and stunning cuisine in a modern yet homely and comfortable atmosphere. A weekly ‘fish market’ appears on Wednesdays and Thursdays, with fresh sea monsters flown in within hours of being landed from the fishing grounds of the Atlantic. Remember to also check out Jedna Trzecia, their specialist Belgian beer bar next doorQF-4, ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. (+48) 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30-60zł). TGBSW PAROS Paros is the first and last place in Warsaw where a waiter pulled out our chair and helped us with our coat - - colour us charmed by the gallantry. That attention carried over to the meal, with Greek staples like hefty salads and bite-sized spanakopitas all imparting the taste of the Mediterranean. The restaurant itself is so large it can be half filled with customers and still seem spacious, even with a packed white wraparound bar in the middle of the room.QB-3, ul. Jasna 14/16a, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67, www.paros-restauracja. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (18-73zł). TUEGBSW RESTAURACJA OLIVA Take a well-deserved break from the racket of Nowy Świat and visit this unpretentious yet smart, light and airy restaurant on the quiet ul. Ordynacka. The Mediterranean based menu includes a healthy dose of homemade pasta dishes and pizzas which are created to their own recipes. A standout main dish is the succulent Guinea fowl piccata, game rarely found on Warsaw menus. As the name suggests, the menu is strongly influenced by the use of olive oil and the restaurant also has a display of fine olive oils from a number of countries for sale. Staff get full marks from us for neither pretending to be your best mate, nor seeing you as their facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

August - September 2014

Restaurants EAT WARSAW

Restaurants

food & vodka tourS

let us explain.

feel poland on your palate. the FOOD TOUR. Price: 69€ / person 4h, 15 types of food

the VODKA TOUR. TOUR . Price: 49€ / person 3h, 6 types of vodka

Book the tour 24h ahead!

worst enemy - they get it just right. The corner location also has a nice terrace area for the warmer weather. Considering the ambience and quality, prices are excellent. QC-3, ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 60, www.restauracjaoliva.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (26-62zł). TYGBSW

MIDDLE EASTERN SOKOTRA The restaurant takes its name from the isolated Yemeni island of Sokotra, a geographic location once described as “the most alien-looking place on earth.” Warsaw’s Sokotra is neither isolated nor alien-looking, it’s situated in the city centre and its interior is a cool modernist take on the simplest of Arabic design. Traditional Yemeni cuisine is heavily influenced by Indian, reflected by the heavy, rich and wellseasoned sauces with most of the dishes here - ideal for some serious roti dipping. The lentil, lemon and green chilli soup was stunning and the mutton, okra and tomato dish was great. There’s standard table dining if you’ve just had your hip replaced, or try the cushioned floor sitting area for an even more authentic experience.QC-4, ul. Wilcza 27, tel. (+48) 22 270 27 66, www.sokotra.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40zł). T6UG BSW

There are basically three ways you can experience the Polish dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the surprisingly large number of surviving communist era Milk Bars, which you can read about elsewhere. Then there are the chains of ‘country cottage’ style places which turn out Polish staples of rye soup, stuﬀed dumplings and heaps of meat and veg in gut-busting portions. The third form is still a relatively new one and involves a growing number of young, world-class chefs using their talents to bring Polish cuisine into the 21st century. We can happily recommend all three forms depending on the occasion. Take a look at the places listed here to give you an idea of which is which.

ATELIER AMARO It’s not hyperbole to call Atelier Amaro one of Poland’s most modern restaurants, and the folks at Michelin certainly agree; it is the first restaurant in the country to land a coveted Michelin star. All the credit goes to famed chef and owner Wojciech Modest Amaro, who describes the cuisine as “where nature meets science.” That ‘science’ is molecular gastronomy, which means almost nothing is as it seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the table with a flourish of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surprisingly citrusy foam. Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 “moments” (what us regular folks call courses) and employ traditional Polish plants like nettles and beetroot in unexpected, highly creative dishes - like juniper ice cream hugging a miniature chocolate cake with chestnuts (with dishes changing almost daily, your menu will undoubtedly be different). Count us as impressed that Amaro himself can be seen serving many of the dishes in this intimate restaurant just inside Łazienki Park. An absolute must for diehard foodies. Keep in mind that Fridays and Saturdays they serve only “8 moment” dinners and children under 14 years of age are not allowed any day. The restaurant will be closed for their summer break from August 3-20. QG-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628 57 47, www. atelieramaro.pl. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30; Mon, Sat 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (185-320zł). UGBW

22 BISTRO BURGER It’s at number 22, it’s a bistro and sells burgers. Here’s hoping they didn’t employ Saatchi and Saatchi to come up with the name! The burgers have some brilliant names though, based on Warsaw landmarks and local lads from different districts like ‘the smart alec from Ochota’ and ‘Jacky-boy from Wola.’ They also offer up plenty of Polish staples (potato pancakes, pierogi) to balance out the menu. In the beverage dept. they offer up five splendid Czech beers, including Litovel on draught. If you’re looking for something a little stronger try out one of their designer shots (Sour Cherry, Bubble Gum Vodka)! Don’t miss their daily lunches from Mon- Fri 12:00 - 16:00, price 19zł.QG-3, ul. Nowy Świat 22, tel. (+48) 22 692 46 99, www.22nowyswiat. pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-32zł). 6GBSW

BELVEDERE Nestled inside Łazienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with foliage and a smattering of welldressed tables both inside and out. Having recently undergone a head to toe renovation, the Belvedere is a stunningly dramatic venue with peacocks wandering the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service. The food lives up to the atmosphere, and a menu overhaul means you’ll have a variety of new dishes to choose from. Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and dare we say women are right to assume a booking here means something big is in order. QG-5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48) 22 558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (42108zł). GS

www.eatWARSAw.com +48 513 605 518; +48 502 815 844

46 Warsaw In Your Pocket

99 RESTAURANT & BAR A fixture on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years and still going strong in the local corporate lunch trade. An updated design which is space age white and rather dashing compliments a highly-recommended, global menu which includes what’s possibly the best steak in Warsaw. Located within a stone’s throw of some of the city’s finest hotels, this is one of the most reliable places in town from breakfast through to supper whether you’re socialising, doing business or a bit of both. QA-3, Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. (+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (29-99zł). UBXSW

POLISH

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BIAŁA GĘŚ Biała Gęś unseated a favourite restaurant, Restauracja Polska Tradycja, and used their name as the subtitle (in large font). We were inclined to dislike it as a result, but after a visit we couldn’t help but enjoy. The menu is definitely upper-crust - you can get a coated goose for 490zl if the mood strikes - but the changing seasonal menu is both more reasonable and creative. The dumpling with goose and cranberry sauce was rich yet light, a description that is also apt for the dacquoise meringue with coffee crème. The over-decorated interior, complete with Polish music from the 1930s, has to be overlooked for enjoyment.QG5, ul. Belwederska 18 a, tel. (+48) 22 840 50 60, www. bialages.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (40120zł). TGBSW NEW CUD MIÓD Cud Miód is certainly keen on having something for everyone. The interior is a mix of rustic Polish/European elements with some modern style fittings and the entrance area is taken up with their Italian market style deli section, so try not to trip over the crates and boxes littering the floor. The menu is an odd mix; a host of traditionally based Polish dishes, Mediterranean offerings, seafood, fusion, burgers and even curry pops up on the list. A casual and attractive venue particularly suited to those who can peruse this type of menu and not change their minds every 30 seconds!QB-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. (+48) 22 630 30 39, www. cudmiod.pl. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (31-76zł). T6UGBSW CZERWONY WIEPRZ Workers of the world unite around a large choice of wellpresented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis and boxing champ Lennox Lewis), 2012 saw ‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club.QE-2, ul. Żelazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (24-69zł). TUGBSW DAWNE SMAKI It’s great to find a traditional Polish restaurant amongst the endless string of international eateries on Nowy Świat. Dawne Smaki thrives on old style Polish cooking, so get ready to sample a comprehensive range of homegrown specialities. The whole spectrum is pretty much covered, from the basics like herrings in oil, pig’s trotters in aspic, potato cakes and pierogi, right up to some high class mains like loin of venison and hand chopped steak August - September 2014

Restaurants

44 Nowy Świat Street, Warsaw

Traditional Polish Cuisine and Regional Products

Discover delicious Polish cuisine: Original Polish Recipes Meat and other ingredients from ecological and family run farms

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+48 662 254 215 restauracja@specjalyregionalne.pl www.specjalyregionalne.pl Find us on www.tripadvisor.com 48 Warsaw In Your Pocket

tartare. Although a rather fearsome looking fresh water based predator may not be on your list of priorities, pike has always been popular throughout Poland’s culinary history; the more adventurous should try Dawne Smaki’s version, which comes fried and served in a light creamy sauce with crayfish. Find Kasztelan and Green Bergen beers on tap, plus live music 3 times a week. Private parties can rent a VIP space too. QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. (+48) 22 465 83 20, www.dawnesmaki.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-95zł). T6UEGBW DELICJA POLSKA Just minutes away from the Old Town and housed in the listed Dom Polonii building, Delicja Polska is a great choice for those looking to dine on traditional Polish dishes within an elegant and spacious establishment in the heart of the main sight-seeing area of the city. The menu is constructed around the freshest, seasonally available produce and the old world styled interior avoids the usual dark wood and sombre tones of much of the competition, instead it manages to combine the atmosphere of Warsaw’s rich heritage with an airy and fresh ambience.QF-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www. delicjapolska.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-69zł). TG BSW DOM POLSKI Much ink has been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaw’s millionaires’ row you can expect Rolls Royce service from the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of starters and several main courses to choose from; how it should be, in other words. We went for the żurek followed by the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar, and couldn’t fault a thing. QH-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616 24 32, www. restauracjadompolski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (32-93zł). TUGBSW FLORIAN Transport yourself back to the 19th century, if you ignore the flat screen TV, and gorge yourself on traditional Polish fare. The pastel coloured rooms are bedecked with antiques, paintings, all forms of dried flora and various bits and bobs. Luckily, Florian manages to stay just the right side of being overly stuffed with such decorative items, making it an ideal place to savour some old style Polish dishes in a relaxing atmosphere. Perhaps not the most exciting item on the menu, but the pierogi are exquisite! The charming bar, designed around a 300 year old fireplace, is located in the attic room. The building itself is rather interesting, originally built by General Wilhelm Mier as a barracks for the Szwolezerow guard way back in the early 18th century.QA3, ul. Chłodna 3, tel. (+48) 22 620 93 98, www.florian. pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (18-55zł). TYXSW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

FOLK GOSPODA Far from promising on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious slice of traditional Poland. It’s inside a rugged interior of stout furnishings and ceramic pots you’ll find boys and girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of fortifying Polish food (think heaps of duck). Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, and that’s never more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and holler over the sound of busy diners. Be sure to check out the wild Polish trout, an eco-friendly dish that will have your shirt buttons pinging off in no time. On weekends the restaurant thoughtfully employs a kids corner with child minders from 12:00 - 17:00 so you can properly focus on your food.QE-2, ul. Waliców 13, tel. (+48) 22 890 16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-69zł). TUGBSW HALKA RESTAURACJA PO POLSKU Named after one of Poland’s best loved operas Halka takes its name seriously; interiors here have been painstakingly designed to mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear nod to Stanisław Moniuszko’s popular script. Dripping with elegance and lordly touches this is upmarket Polish food at its best. And despite what the well-done interior might suggest, they even have a children’s corner.QE-3, ul. Pańska 85, tel. (+48) 509 59 33 05, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (22-55zł). TGBSW NEW L’ENFANT TERRIBLE This rebellious new kid on the block is already causing murmurings amongst those who enjoy dining on the culinary precipice. If dishes like beetroot and mackerel ice cream or converting the humble tomato into the taste equivalent of a fiery red 1000 horse power Ferrari then this is the place for you. Top chef Michał Bryś honed his craft at a number of 2 and 3 Michelin starred restaurants - including The Ledbury in London. For all the Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde work going on in the kitchen, the restaurant space itself presents an unfussy, casual and relaxing environment. FYI- They will be closed for the summer until August 11.QG-5, ul. Sandomierska 13 (entrance from ul. Rejtana), tel. (+48) 22 119 57 05, www. eterrible.pl. Open 12:30 - 15:30, 18:30 - 22:00; Sat 13:00 15:30, 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (30-89zł). GW LITERATKA Located in the shadow of Zygmunt’s column on the Warsaw’s poshest street, Literatka is a traditional Polish restaurant with a cosy feel and an impressive range of Polski and international dishes. Pierogi, pork and duck all make an appearance as well as a more than acceptable sirloin steak. It’s not bad at all and a suitable way to finish a day ploughing the tourist trail in the adjacent old town, and the Mon-Fri lunch special (12:00-17:00 soup and a main for 19zl) is a deal.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89 (second entrance - ul. Senatorska 3), tel. (+48) 22 827 30 54, www.literatka.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (30-70zł). T6EBXSW facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

Spanish cuisine Top quality products and a casual atmosphere

KOBE Style beef (WAGYU) Excellent steaks - tender, juicy and flavorful We also recommend: Spanish aged-beef

2 Bracka Street (next to Trzech Krzyży Square)

tel. +48 519 875 767 www.ole-restaurant.pl August - September 2014

Restaurants

Restaurants ed to elite by elegant table settings and excellent service, and includes not one, but three VIP rooms, plus a plush cigar room that’s also stocked with Scottish single-malt whiskies. To give you a sense of the calibre of the cuisine here, the Sole Douver Meuniere was worthy of an award. So delicious it’s almost embarrassing to eat in public, we worry what might happen when we try the venison.QG5, ul. Gagarina 2 (entrance from ul. Czerniakowska), tel. (+48) 22 840 70 71, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (30-110zł). TUG BSW SPECJAŁY REGIONALNE This is a great café and deli that has recently undergone a sizable expansion. They serve up meat and potatoes in all their varying Polish forms, but in small enough portions to not come away in pain. Think Polish tapas - it’s a great place to go and sample the full range of Polish sausage meat and ham, especially when the prices are so small. As an extra bonus, if you really like what you have you can order some more from the deli to take home for later. Furthermore, the owner is something of a mead fanatic and they have a great hot and cold selection. Also at ul. Gagarina 4 (Mokotów), ul. Dąbrowskiego 3 (Mokotów), ul. Felińskiego 52 (Żoliborz) and ul. Ostrobramska 75c (Atrium Promenada, Praga Południe).QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www.specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00. GSW

RESTAURACJA RÓŻANA A two floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers and crockery. Very pretty, but you’ll soon learn they attract return custom on account of the cooking, not the interiors. The setting might look high end but the prices are certainly not, and you’ll find Różana recognized across the city as one of the best dinner deals around. The veal liver with onions and cherry sauce is divine. Plenty claim to open till the last customer but only these guys are the real deal - if there’s people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and that doesn’t matter if it’s midnight or daybreak. Give a quick call ahead to check. QG-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel. (+48) 22 848 12 25, www. restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (3070zł). TEGBSW SENSES Situated between the historic and war scarred Reduta Bank building and the new Senator office complex, Senses is part of the micro-elite of Warsaw’s world class, innovate and ultramodern dining establishments. Head chef, Andrea Camastra, relishes the culinary traditions and produce of Poland, so the menu may be strongly rooted in tradition but his dynamic, uncompromising and experimental approach in achieving his vision take things to unprecedented levels - the state of the art kitchen features its own laboratory room where miracles happen. The interior masterfully blends the feeling of the surrounding architecture and the attention to detail 50 Warsaw In Your Pocket

is mind-boggling. Prepare to have your senses blown away.QF-2, ul. Bielańska 12, tel. (+48) 22 331 96 97, www.sensesrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 22:00; Sat 17:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (84-110zł). UGW SŁONY Magda Gessler strikes again, but not with the usual overdecorated sit-down restaurant we’ve come to expect; this time the celebrity restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar that’s a complete knockout. A glass case in the middle of the restaurant houses a variety of canapés to choose from - wouldn’t the French die to see smalec and pickles on a canapé? - and the menu is populated with small meaty dishes primarily in the 4-12zł range (can we call it Polish tapas?). The simple homemade white sausage with onion jam is on our city-wide best-of list, and with one entire wall utilised for wine storage you can sip and snack your way to pure bliss.QG-4, ul. Piękna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza), tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (12-49zł). 6GSW SOWA & PRZYJACIELE The pet project of well-known Polish master chef Robert Sowa, this outstanding restaurant raises the bar not only with its extensive range of tantalising dishes that sound so good you’ll want to eat the menu, but also with the level of hospitality. The ostensibly casual, modern interior is elevatwarsaw.inyourpocket.com

U FUKIERA The most famous restaurant in town with a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of the names who’ve taken a seat here. The interior is a work of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, it’s hard not to feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect indulgence with perfectly presented game dishes. Your bill is a different matter, and may present a double Dutch situation. QB-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22 831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105zł). TGBW WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA Not content with running a rather large number of restaurants in the city centre, the Gessler clan now set their sights on the never-quite-rejuvenated area of post-industrial Praga with this new venture in one of the old buildings of the Soho Factory complex. One of the two brick walled rooms is vast, the smaller room has a central kitchen area which diners sit around and watch the frantic goings-on of the chefs at work. Ultimately, this ‘island’ eating concept is rather irritating, noisy and a tad ‘aromatic’ in our opinion. Mind you, none of that stops the young, rich and beautiful from piling in here. The kitchen, under the command of Robert Kondziela, presents a modern take on Polish classics and contemporary French cuisine, and serves it ‘round the clock.Qul. Mińska 25 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 22 870 29 18, www.gessler.sohofactory.pl. Open 24hrs. (3978zł). T6UEGBSW facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

Well-known and respected ‚Osteria‘ invites you to enjoy delicious fish and seafood... „This is the only such restaurant in Warsaw.“

LIVE MUSIC

Entrance from Poznanska 2 str. (Ul. Koszykowa 54), Tel. 22 621 16 46, Mob. 601 243 466 www.osteria.pl, restauracja@osteria.pl

OPEN: Mon-Sat 12:00 – 23:00 or last guest, Sun 13:00 – 21:00 or last guest

August - September 2014

Restaurants HEALTHY EATING When it comes to trends, Poland is often late to adopt what other countries would now consider routine. So it goes with the green, eco-friendly fad, which has reached a fevered pitch in many major cities while Warsaw is just beginning to embrace the idea. A group of new (and already popular) venues are using their green status as a major lure for customers in effort we expect will soon be duplicated all over the city. CAFÉ 6/12 A prominent Warsaw café, and one popular with ad execs and scenesters. Making good use of the high ceilings and socialist granite touches 6/12 features trance like music and subdued lighting, adding a chilled out element to this long-living establishment. However, this place is so much more than a café, and a thumb through the menu confirms so; the smoothies, and there’s millions to choose from, are hands down the best in the city, while food choices include a range of light gourmet bites you’d imagine a Kate Moss character stabbing her fork at.QC-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 622 53 33, www.612.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-65zł). T6GBSW KLUBOKAWIARNIA RESORT What looks like a normal café at first glance is anything but: old bathtubs have been turned into couches, metal shopping carts now serve as seats, and the bar is made from colourful stacks of old books (it’s worth a visit to their Facebook page to see how they created this unique bar). Even cardboard tubes have been reinvented as chairs. While the décor is decidedly reused, the food and drinks are true originals. Cocktails are made with fresh fruit, while stomachs can be lined with whatver tasty concoctions the chef comes up with on a regular basis. Fortunately, you can drink your bottled beer or Argentine cola without any guilt since Resort makes recycling a part of its mission.QB-2, ul. Bielańska 1, tel. (+48) 507 17 99 35. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (10-12zł). 6BXSW VEG DELI Situated on a tranquil tree-lined residential street in the Powiśle area of the city, Veg Deli has certainly managed to up the ante regarding vegetarian restaurants in Warsaw. The freshly prepared vegetarian, vegan and gluten free dishes are richly coloured, fragrant and look, smell and taste amazing. Even seasoned carnivores such as us were knocked out by the food and natural drinks on offer. The restaurant itself is best summed up as the opposite of Dr. Who’s Tardis - it looks huge from the outside, a chunky old townhouse with tall and stylish old windows, but on the inside it’s a pretty small and simple split level affair. QG-2, ul. Radna 14, tel. (+48) 733 66 98 74. Open 12:00 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 19:30. (20-30zł). T6GBSW 52 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Restaurants ZAPIECEK Packed through all hours this pierogi kitchen assumes the ‘Grandmother’s country cottage’ look, with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously light dough pockets come with all the ﬁllings you can imagine. If you don’t fancy a sit down then check their street-level take away window for lunch-on-the-run. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 28 (C-4), Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia) ul. Freta 18 (B-1), ul. Wańkowicza 1 (Kabaty), ul. Freta 1 (B-1), ul. Świętojańska 13 (B-2).QC-4, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22 692 41 35, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 24:00. (19-36zł). TGS

SEAFOOD OSTERIA Some of the best seafood in Warsaw, with a menu featuring fresh oysters, langoustines, parrotfish (yes, really) and some very good octopus. The modern interior includes hardwood and porthole finishes, as well as aquariums from which African fish look on in alarm as their colleagues meet a sticky end in the open kitchen.QF-3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (49-122zł). GBSW

SPANISH CASA PABLO Spanish restaurants are few and far between in Warsaw, so it’s not hard to stand out if that’s the menu you’re slinging. Yet Casa Pablo doesn’t rest on those laurels and ups the ante with creative Spanish-inﬂuenced cuisine. Try the delicious Carpacho de vieiras- carpaccio from St. James mussels served with homemade foie gras mi-cuit, cauliﬂower and grilled pineapple drizzled with olive oil . That doesn’t even touch on the desserts, or the specials we’ve seen...not that you’ll need any extra enticements once you’ve explored this unique menu.QA-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 324 57 81, www.casapablo.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (45-85zł). TUG BSW LA VIÑA La Vina successfully brings a little slice of Spain to Warsaw. A wine bar, tapas bar, restaurant and shop are all combined in this light and smart space. The wines are all sourced from northern Spain and selected by the Spanish boss (who is also a part owner of the Bodegas Santa Rufino vineyard), and the kitchen is under the control of two chefs from Malaga. Top food, refined wines, fantastically friendly staff and a lovely attitude towards demystifying the snobbery of the quality wine scene in Warsaw makes this one of our favourite places in town.QE-4, ul. Tarczyńska 1 (entrance from ul. Raszyńska), tel. (+48) 22 416 27 50, www.lavinabar. pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. From September open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł). XSW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

OLE TAPAS STEAK RESTAURANT Warsaw’s hankering for a fine steak shows no sign of abating with the highly respected Ole doubling in size by adding a new and more formal room to the restaurant. Choose between the bistro like original space with its whirlwind of flamenco and bullfighting imagery or step through into the quiet, elegant and more formal new space featuring a wall of wines and prints of how your steak looked while its heart was still beating. No need to mess with a winning combination so the menu remains staunchly the same; including Wagyu (Kobe style), Basque and Polish steaks, Pata Negra ham and Ole’s legendary foie gras.QC-4, ul. Bracka 2, tel. (+48) 519 87 57 67, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. (60-200zł). GBSW SOL Y SOMBRA Formerly Cuatro Caminos Tapas Bar, Sol y Sambra seems to have kept the former’s kitschy décor as well as their consistently delicious cuisine (new owner, new chef), which is authentically Spanish to the core. The lunch special lands you soup and a main, and we can’t say enough for the gazpacho when it’s in season. The paella requires a bit of a wait but it’s well worth it, and the tenderloin with goat cheese is also highly recommended. As the third tapas bar to call this address home we’re thinking this one is a keeper.QA-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok.16, tel. (+48) 22 404 70 11, www.solysombra.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (29-49zł). 6UEGBSW NEW TAPAS GASTROBAR There can be no better recommendation for this smart, yet simply designed, tapas bar than the fact that they have been known to reduce some of their Spanish customers to tears as their minds hurtle back to the real tastes of home. The bar is the brainchild of the team behind the superb Casa Pablo, so you know to expect great things. The authentic and traditional range of around 30 tapas dishes are representative of the many regions of Spain and the kitchen is run by a chef from Saragossa whose passion for the art could well be unsurpassed in the city. Quite brilliant!QE-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hotel Hilton), tel. (+48) 22 251 13 10, www. tapasgastrobar.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (6-36zł). T6UEBSW

TEX-MEX DOS TACOS The 5th floor of the Millennium Plaza business and retail building may not be the most attractive of settings for visitors to the city but Dos Tacos is popular with the people who work there, including the staff of the Mexican Embassy. The darkly lit interior features a host of Mexican style nick-nacks, a colour scheme inspired by the country’s flag and a neat mosaic covered bar. The owner, Angelika Luengas Kałamaga, constructs the dishes from her own family’s traditional recipes and the sexy drinks come courtesy of top Polish mixer Łukasz Klocek.QE-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. (+48) 22 243 46 18, www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (19-45zł). T6UGSW facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

August - September 2014

Restaurants STEAK The steakhouse has enjoyed prime (get it?) placement on Warsaw’s dining scene of late, and talk of the best cuts, grass-fed beef and who has the juiciest New York strip can be hashed out at this list of Warsaw’s steakcentric restaurants. AMIGOS This large Western-themed restaurant stakes a claim for being both an American steakhouse and a Tex-Mex joint. Their massive menu is ﬁlled with classic texas style cuts of cow and pork (Rib Eyes and Ribs!). The secret of their sizzling steaks is head chef Tony Perini, former private chef to George W. Bush. Since his arrive all of their steaks are prepared to strict Texas standards. If grilled meat ain’t up your street head south of the border for some burritos, quesadillas and enchilladas. The interior is a cross between Blazing Saddles and Desperado so make sure to bring your 10 gallon sombrero. Buckle up Amigos!QA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. (+48) 22 629 39 69, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (29-99zł). UG BSW BUTCHERY & WINE A wonderful addition to the Warsaw dining scene winning points for originality and simplicity. This bright, modern, relaxed venue has an open kitchen and enough wine on display to ﬂoat a battleship. The menu features a range of real steaks prepared exactly to order and served on wooden boards with additional sauce and side options. While it doesn’t have to be steak (the rest of the menu also looked mouthwatering) we can’t imagine ever daring to order anything. Highly recommended!QB-4, ul. Żurawia 22, tel. (+48) 22 502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (29-120zł). GBW MUU MUU This attractive little restaurant on a short street near the Old Town prides itself on using Polish beef from the green pastures of Mazury and topclass Wagyu beef, reared in the traditional Japanese way in Argentina, so the cattle probably have tango music on their iPods and Borges read to them while receiving massages. The menu is split into meat, side orders and sauces, allowing you to construct your own main course. The illustrations of cuts and explanation of cooking methods are a nice touch. There’s also several surf options if you decide to steer away from the turf. The wine list is extensive and red heavy.QB-2, ul. Moliera 8, tel. (+48) 22 465 15 53, www.muumuu.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-200zł). 6UGBSW 54 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Restaurants WARSAW TORTILLA FACTORY In a country that considers ketchup spicy we’re always trepidacious when restaurants boast of any sort of heat factor. Fortunately, the Warsaw Tortilla Factory isn’t kidding when they call their habanero mango salsa “explosive.” The rest of the Tex-Mex menu also lives up to expectations, with outsized burritos few adults can finish and a cheesy Philly taco that’s so wrong it’s right. And don’t forget chicken wings for 1zł on Tuesdays. Heck we’d probably lick the guacamole off the floor and wash it down with a Corona. We doubt anyone at the WTF would blink if we did since the mixed crowd of locals and ex-pats is equally as focused on their salsa-laden plates.QF-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-79zł). T6EBXSW

THAI THAI Run by the Godfather of Warsaw’s Thai cuisine, Surachart Urajaroen, this restaurant is 100% the real deal. No messing around with fusion concepts or little Polish additions. The five strong Thai kitchen team stick firmly to tradition and the results are spectacular. Based in the National Theatre building itself, the exterior of hefty, grey stonework gives you no inkling of the opulent interior which awaits you. Black walls decorated with Thai designs and gold curved ceilings create a very calming and relaxing environment. The well laid out seating areas also offer you the option of dining in a more private space, great for business meetings or an intimate dinner date.QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 601 81 82 83, www.thaithai.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (37120zł). TUGBSW

THAI

UKRAINIAN

NATARA Located within the defensive walls surrounding the Old Town, Natara serves up a vast array of authentic Thai dishes. Don’t be put oﬀ by the ‘school project’ style advertising outside the restaurant, or the fact that the owners have no interest in the ultra-modern Warsaw eatery design trends of the moment. They stick to an old-school colonial look, which actually suits the location perfectly, and concentrating on what they do best - Thai cooking! If the lengthy menu sets your mind spinning, we can highly recommend the tom yum kung spicy coconut soup and the green curry chicken, or simply go with one of their daily specials.QB-1, ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. (+48) 22 635 25 01. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (20-35zł). GBS

KAMANDA LWOWSKA Here’s a restaurant that gets back to basics, oﬀering up a cavalcade of dishes that have been otherwise deleted from modern Warsaw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceilings this isn’t the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Foksal, choosing instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian Lviv was actually Polish Lwów. The emphasis is ﬁrmly on the good old days - before moustached dictators started dictating Poland’s borders - and the design is a pleasing jumble of craftwork and clutter. The menu, too, has been painstakingly perfected, and includes such masterstrokes as tatar and a meringue cake with raspberry mousse. QC-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 31, www. kamandalwowska.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (39-90zł). TEGBSW

PAPAYA We’ll never tire of recommending Papaya, an ice white venue rated as one of the best restaurants in the city. Oysters come plucked from the aquarium, while an open kitchen allows the pleasure of watching the chefs at work; these guys don’t miss a beat, and show oﬀ every trick in the book as they create standout dishes like steamed bass in banana leaf and class pad Thai.QC-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (22-265zł). TBXSW SILK & SPICY No expense has been spared on the lush, perfectly designed interior and it’s nice to see a little ray of sunshine along the less salubrious end of ul. Żurawia. Sushi and Thai battle it out on the menu, and since we would rather go for Sushi in a small clinically white sushi bar, Thai wins the day! A good tester for any Warsaw Thai venture is Tom Kha Kai; weighing in at a rather hefty 21zł for a bowl of soup, we were relieved that this one was pretty tasty despite suffering from the rather common lack of ‘chilli kick’. Unfortunately the average Polish palate still dreads the ﬁery fruit, and restaurants compensate accordingly. Be aware of the obsession with weekend reservations, even when the place is half empty.QC-4, ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. (+48) 22 629 70 12, www.silkandspicy.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (25-49zł). TVGBSW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

The First American Steakhouse in Warsaw

VEGETARIAN GREEN BAR An oasis of veggie goodness in the meaty heart of this carnivorous city, Green Bar keeps it simple - soup, quiches, light meals and the like - but does so very well indeed, and keeps prices low, ensuring it a steady stream of customers - at lunchtime especially. Just about your only veggie option this close to the city centre, we say get here while you can.QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 602 27 17 50, www. greenbar.waw.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (12-15zł). UGBS GREEN PEAS ECO BAR & COFFEE If the mossy paint colour didn’t tip you oﬀ, then the menu at Green Peas Eco Bar & Coﬀee will: these folks are seriously green. The menu was designed with the environment in mind, which can sound boring on paper but is delicious on the plate. Their salads are just 15zł and combine impressively fresh greens with homemade dressing, and tofu is a word you’ll see often. They have a selection of eco products and produce available for purchase as well. Even their cola is organic!QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 85, www.greenpeas.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. (14-22zł). T6GBSW facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 119 TEL. (+48) 22 629 39 69 WWW.RESTAURACJAAMIGOS.PL

THIS PLACE IS NOT JUST FOR COWBOYS. WE WELCOME Y'ALL!

August - September 2014

Restaurants

Cafés

We invite you to the best oriental restaurant in Warsaw…

16 Foksal Street 00-372 Warsaw

TIPPING TRIBULATIONS Polish tipping etiquette can be a bit confusing for foreigners. While in other civilized countries it’s normal to say ‘thanks’ when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje,’ or even ‘thank you’ in English, is an indication that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress then typically does their best to play the fool and make you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your change. Be careful only to say ‘thank you’ if you are happy for the waitstaff to keep all the change. Otherwise we advise you to only use the word ‘proszę’ (please) when handing back the bill and the payment. Despite the fact that most waitstaff in PL are only paid in pennies and leftovers, it is not customary to tip more than 10% of the meal’s total (though being a foreigner may make the staff expectant of a bit more generosity). As such, we encourage you to reward good service when you feel it’s deserved. Finally, it is virtually unheard of to leave the tip on your card, because waitstaff are then forced to pay tax on the gratuity; you won’t get the chance. Therefore it’s essential to have some change or small bills handy in order to leave your server a tip. If you don’t have any, ask for change. 56 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Reservations +48 (22) 826-11-99 PapayaRestaurant www.papaya.waw.pl

NEW VEGE MIASTO A paradise for Warsaw’s healthy eating, vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free fanatics. The interior is a pretty simple affair with fittings made from old wooden crates and palettes. The smallish space is permanently packed with a variety of customers; hip vege devotees sit alongside business types, local ladies and tourists in search of something beyond a fried pig and a kilo of potatoes flock in at all times of the day to gorge themselves on fresh and tasty produce, beautiful cakes and a great range of drinks; the watermelon and mint juice was possibly the mightiest hot day refresher we have ever experienced.QB-2, Al. Solidarności 60a, tel. (+48) 607 03 11 14, www.vegemiasto.pl. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00. (18-35zł). T6NBSW

VIETNAMESE NEW VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT FOUR SEASONS Four Seasons is a well designed and attractive restaurant space featuring coloured woods and lime green paintwork highlighted by the soft glow of green neon and the tables are professionally laid out. The overall effect looks pretty impressive, so one would expect the pan-asian cuisine compete with the surroundings. Our dishes were reasonable, but they do seem to err on the side of caution when it comes to seasonings and spices. A good choice for a quick lunch, offering a choice of four different daily options.QB-4, ul. Hoża 27a, tel. (+48) 22 400 27 32, www.hoza4seasons. pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00. (17-60zł). T6BSW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

AROMA ESPRESSO BAR Aroma may not be the first name that springs to mind in the world of coffee shop chains, but this Israeli based company opened its first café in Jerusalem in 1994 and their world class robust coffee stands head and shoulders above much of the wishy-washy competition. The Warsaw bar is a small and simple affair which also sells a range of cakes, pastries, salads and sandwiches, including some Middle Eastern variants like savoury burekas or the shakshuka breakfast. All eats are freshly prepared to order, so no plastic tubs of wilting greenery or pre-packed sarnies here. Check out their second location in Galeria Mokotów on ul. Wołoska 12, II floor (open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00). QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 7, tel. (+48) 22 827 02 21, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. GBSW BLIKLE CAFÉ A part of Warsaw folklore. This is where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his doughnuts back in his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sells a variety of desserts and cakes that are famous in their own right. A classy, august venue, with a menu available until midnight that includes a range of breakfasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection that will have you in heaven.QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826 64 50, www.blikle.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. TGSW CAFE PRÓŻNA Making a stir with Warsaw’s intellectuals is Cafe Próżna, a cracking cafe set inside a shattered building that looks ready to keel over. You’ll be lucky to find a seat inside this narrow venue, even more so if there’s a lecture or reading going on. Decorated with pre-war photographs, Próżna comes with a pile of well-thumbed history books in the entrance, tiny tea candles and a basement level to soak up any overflow of customers. The only disappointment here are the smoothies; nowhere near as good as the venue deserves. Due to ongoing renovations they open every day from 11:30.QB-3, ul. Próżna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620 32 57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6GSW CAFÉ VINCENT This place is a great French bakery and coffee shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and bread. This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny shop space move quickly while you dither, and you also risk being smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly, but it’s worth it as a coffee and croissant will set you back less than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (D-1, Arkadia) and ul. Chmielna 21.QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. (+48) 22 828 01 15. Open 06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 01:00. 6UGBSW LENIVIEC The name roughly translates as ‘Lazy Guy’ and Leniviec really is one of the better trendy cafes for just collapsing in a heap, drinking some fine coffee from the comprefacebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

hensive menu and you can even select from aeropress, chemex or drip methods of brewing. Nice, light and healthy food is on offer and early birds can pop in for a selection of breakfasts from 07:00. The weekend themed buffet breakfasts are also proving to be a big hit. In the evenings check out the cocktail bar menu; budding cosmopolitan alcoholics can sip on Manhattans or, seeing as you are in Warsaw, delve into the ‘Made in Poland’ section. Waiting times can be a bit of a drag, but hey, you’re a lazy guy, what’s the rush?QB-4, ul. Poznańska 7, tel. (+48) 22 350 77 77, www.leniviec.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 24:00. 6EGSW NEW MONIQUE BAKERY & WINE This French style cafe really is underselling itself by saying Bakery and Wine. Ok, they do make some great rustic breads, fine cakes/pastries and have a small selection of nice wines, but they also do great salads, low-fat burgers, tartines, filled pancakes, freshly squeezed fruit cocktails and are open from 7am for a variety of breakfasts. The ideal corner location allows them to open up two sides of the exterior and place a few tables and chairs outside. The staff were attentive, professional and looked great in their crisp white shirts and blouses. A little Parisian style diamond on Krucza.QC-4, ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. (+48) 22 629 39 74, www.moniquebakery.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. GBSW RELAX CAFE BAR Relax has long been one of our favourite escapes in the city centre for fine coffee (including aeropress and French press) and great homemade cakes. Find it in part of the former Relax Cinema building, just behind the main drag of big stores on ul. Marszalkowska. Check out the communist era cinema neon sign on the end of the building which is located around 100m from the café itself. The lovely staff spend most of their time nattering away to customers and enthusiastically pointing out hard to find destinations to lost looking tourists on maps of Warsaw. Recently, they have added a range of 25 regional bottled beers to the menu and be sure to sample the ‘Cider Inn’ - Poland’s best home-grown attempt at the fruity elixir.QB-3/4, ul. Złota 8a (Pasaż Wiecha), tel. (+48) 22 827 35 65, www.relaxcafe.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. 6GBSW TO LUBIĘ Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, coffee and apple or plum crumble at 12zł a slice (not necessarily in that order). Opposite the church on a street that is best known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place you can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment. Old/New Town should be full of places like is. ‘I like this’ is what the name means and we do.QB-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00. 6GBSW August - September 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife BARS & PUBS Warsaw has a thriving bar scene, and hitting up one of the many venues listed here offers the chance to sample Poland’s national beverage - vodka - long with plenty of local beers. You’ll be offered beer either in 0.3 or 0.5 litre sizes, and prices depend greatly on how swank your establishment; expect to pay 7-10zł for a large beer for the most part. BEIRUT HUMMUS & MUSIC BAR Our favorite new addition to Warsaw’s bar scene, Beirut is pure atmosphere - the bar itself is made with sandbags, after all - and offers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive oil-soaked hummus and falafel to pair with your beer. While the weather is nice the front is open to the street, letting passersby marvel at the sound system and the unique hairstyles of the hip staff.QB-4, ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00 - 01:00. UGBW CAFE KULTURALNA Cafe, bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space, and unmissable if you appreciate a venue with character. Decorated with vinyl armchairs, artwork and tasteless 50s chandeliers this is a magnet for the student intelligentsia. DJs, film screenings, readings and assorted artsy tosh regularly held. Find it in the Palace of Culture on the Marszałkowska side of the building next to the theatre in the south-east corner.QB-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www. kulturalna.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UEGW

Piw iw w Pa Paw w

The explosion of bars and clubs in Warsaw over the last few years means that you are never far from a fresh beer or decent nightspot. On the other hand, it’s still easy to find yourself stranded outside the bolted doors of a supposedly popular club on a Wednesday night, or staring into the bottom of a pint glass in a deserted bar. Local knowledge, trends and the Superman-like ability to scoot across town in a flash (“Taxi!”) are prerequisites to achieving a successful night out. But that’s why you have us. The new money crowd have certainly found a home amongst the posh eateries and glamorous nightclubs around Pl. Piłsudskiego (B-3) and Pl. Teatralny (B-2); keep in mind, however, that clubs in this area have such strict door policies that it may be easier to get out of a mobile phone contract than get in for a drink and a boogie. Warsaw’s young arty crowd prefer the down-at-heel clubs and bars that have popped up in the districts across the river: Stara Praga (G/H-1) and the fashionable and increasingly gentrified Saska Kępa (H-2/3). Opening hours listed here should only be treated as rough approximation; in practise many bars and clubs will stay open well beyond the call of duty if the need arises, but by the same benchmark will happily bolt the doors if business is slow. Below are a few rapid-fire suggestions for those who need an instant plan; the less desperate should spend a bit more time scrutinising our in-depth reviews section. 58 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Modern urban cocktail bar with a full range of spirits, exotic drinks and cocktails from around the world.

LOCAL Warsaw’s biggest multi-tap bar Piw Paw attracts a true mix of punters, all of whom are attracted by the selection of hand-crafted Polish and European beers. Across the river, OSP Saska Kępa is a neat little bar and an amiable local experience with the addition of classy Polish beers. CHEAP It has to be The Pavilions, a ramshackle collection of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that oﬀers Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. COUPLES The pricey custom cocktails at The Pictures are made with the precision of an atomic scientist; it may not sound romantic...but it is! Judging by the numerous sexy couples seated at the bar, Coctail Bar Max hits the right note with their ‘tell us what flavours, alcohols and fruits you like and we’ll mix a drink specifically for you’ concept. SPLURGE Panorama Bar’s cocktails are worth the dip into your wallet, as are the views from the 40th ﬂoor. If you’re dressed to impress hit up Platinum Club for the chance to drink like a champagne-swilling Russian oligarch. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

COCTAIL BAR MAX We also question the spelling, but otherwise Max’s concept is fiendishly simple, colourful and fun. Step up to the expert bar staff, give them a rundown on your favourite tipples, fruits and taste sensations and - HEY PRESTO - they concoct a magical potion especially for you! Weird and wonderful fruits and glamorous bottles of booze are imported from around the globe. The main bar area is a bright and airy affair with bleached wood and multi-coloured seating. Tucked away at the back of the bar you will find the dark and mysterious specialist whisky and cigar area. Over 500 bottles of the ‘water of life’ stand like museum exhibits in dimly lit glass cases. Stare in awe at the 32-year-old Port Ellen, yours for only 550zł a shot!QC-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 691 71 00 00, www.barmax.pl. Open 11:00 - 05:00. UBXW HAKA BAR Haka proves that size isn’t everything and the raw brickwork and industrial look doesn’t have to be in a building with the dimensions of a zeppelin factory. Run by every Warsaw expats’ favourite Irishman, Kevin Bradley, and his business partner Kasia Chelpinska, this 30m2 bar is a great place to mingle with locals and foreigners, chill out with a glass of fine wine and attack the stunningly innovative menu with gusto. In order to get a feel for the ever changing international and modern culinary visions of Kiwi chef facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

Sophisticated sushi and tasty thai cuisine.

ul. Świętokrzyska 36 Tel. (+48) 535 33 31 23 www.patera.com.pl /PATERAbar August - September 2014

Nightlife JAZZ METRO JAZZ BAR & BISTRO Bathed in a soothing forest green glow this is a classic jazz bar where aesthetic shortcomings are brushed over with a pot of atmosphere. Take to one of the swivelly barside stools to knock back the barman’s creations while taking in nightly jazz performances that fluctuate hugely in both style and volume.QF-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06, www. hotelmetropol.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UEGW PIĘKNA BISTRO Piękna Bistro is everything you don’t expect of a jazz bar, with a smart set of customers inside an attractive interior that recently enjoyed a modernising.The live performances are consistently excellent, and better still, never loud enough to completely sink conversation. We’ve heard it’s converting to a sushi establishment. Will the jazz stay? We’re not sure, but be warned that upheaval appears imminent.QG-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627 41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. UEGBW Shane Baker, try out the mix and match sharing platters. Keeping all the punters happy the daily lunch menu regularly features meat, fish and vegetarian options. Considering the quality on offer, prices are exceptionally reasonable and the revamped interior is modern and stylish.QC-4, ul. Bracka 20, tel. (+48) 22 114 86 97. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. GBW HARD ROCK CAFE Sure you don’t need to see Freddie Mercury’s red leather pants to enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. The Hard Rock Cafe’s large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even when live rock shows aren’t on the agenda. The endless bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to Madonna’s early 90s frame. When music is on tap the crowd becomes more varied (and youthful) but just as devoted to the strum of a Fender.QB-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www. hardrockcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. UGBW HYDROZAGADKA You will not find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place looks like it’s been ransacked by students, and it’s almost advisable to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decorations aren’t so much limited as virtually nonexistent, and you won’t find much more than brick walls 60 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Nightlife and a collection of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish. But while it looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the best places in town, with off-beat performances enjoyed by a crowd that doesn’t get out of bed till way after noon.Qul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48) 502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 05:00 and during events. UE BXW JEDNA TRZECIA - BEER BAR The varnished chipboard furnishings and raw cement walls may all appear a little ‘last year’, but it’s still a nice enough, minimal look. Of course, what’s really important is the contents of the fridges and kegs; stare longingly at the dozens of artisan Belgian beers, lined up like little soldiers in the refrigerators, or go for one of the eight beers on tap, including our much loved Grimbergen beer from Flanders. The owners are also constantly Chouffe-ling around looking for new and interesting brews, so drop by and let them help bring out the Duvel in you!QC-4, ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. (+48) 605 45 95 88. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. GBW KLUBOKAWIARNIA TOWARZYSKA Cool café/club across the river in Saska Kępa. Housed in a row of 1950’s shop fronts, the owners have managed to modernise the interior while remaining sympathetic to the history of the building. On the ground level you’ll find the white tiled bar serving up a variety of drinks, cakes, light dishes and a selection of trendy European magazines, including Wire and Wallpaper (the design magazine for those who don’t like reading!). Downstairs the small events room is home to exhibitions, readings, cult film screenings (shown in their original languages) and live music; we still squirm with embarrassment when recalling seeing a Finnish electro-pop geezer acting like a lethargic robot and gyrating his groin just inches away from our faces. Expect bands to have names like ‘Root Canal Treatment’…we’re not kidding!QH-3, ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. (+48) 22 270 21 79, www. klubokawiarnia.net. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. UEGBW KRAKEN RUM BAR The first thing that hits you upon entering this little seafood joint is the great smell which immediately makes you think of harbourside cafes and holidays to the seaside with your bucket and spade. The interior is reminiscent of a fisherman’s shed; fish-box wood, sun bleached driftwood tables and chairs and a selection of old maritime imagery. The seafood is simply presented, very tasty and well priced. Also, try the Kraken rum which is made especially for the bar by the brewers at Artezan - Poland’s smallest brewery. The staff are a tattooed, trendy bunch, but rather than being press-ganged and forced to set sail for the Greenland fisheries, we suspect they’ve just dropped out of uni and possibly taken a pedalo for a spin on a boating pond.QB4, ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. UGBW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

KUFLE I KAPSLE Hot on the heels of the original Warsaw real ale bar ‘Cuda na Kiju’ comes this beer drinker’s paradise. The name ‘Kufle i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar design mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled heater in the back room. Twelve taps are on offer and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian glass recycling bin! An interesting selection of bar snacks are also available; biltong, prunes wrapped in bacon and warm French pastry with savoury toppings. Keen to spread the gospel, the owners are also responsible for the Warsaw beer trail map, just ask at the bar. In contrast to many other local bars, expect it to be packed and buzzing from around 17:00. We love it!QB/C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. (+48) 22 127 72 18. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. GBW MOMU GASTROBAR It’s been years since adding the word Gastrobar to the name of an eatery created such excitement, but this is Warsaw! As well as a comprehensive range of drinks and cocktails, Momu serves up large portions of salads, snacks and hot plates with assorted seafood delicacies. Choose from a sizzling shrimp plate or marinated cod all served with stuffed baked potatoes. The slightly austere white brick interiors are compensated for by the colourful pallet of the dishes on offer . The staff are casual, quick and eager to make your visit a memorable one. QB-2, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from Pl. Teatralny), tel. (+48) 506 10 00 01, www.momu.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. UEBXW OSP SASKA KĘPA Sharing none of the pretence of nearby ul. Francuska, this great café, social club and fire station (crazy, but true!) is by far one of the jolliest places in Saska. OSP attracts a variety of customers; off duty firemen, locals, arty types and a very happy little Jack Russell terrier. Tasty, cheap home cooked food and a good range of difficult to find beers are on offer - - think 25 regional brews from around Poland and Czech Republic. Regular music/film nights and an eco-market on Sundays (10:00-16:00) add to the appeal, and don’t forget to try on the collection of firemen’s helmets and hats after a few beers. In August the bar is closed on Mondays.Qul. Walecznych 74 (Saska Kępa), tel. (+48) 603 10 38 88. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. UEGBW PANORAMA BAR & LOUNGE Warsaw’s highest bar - and indeed Poland’s - sits on the 40th floor of the Marriott with prices to match the top tier location and a new VIP room to boot. The views of Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and they’re no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever lighting. There’s no better place for Sleepless In Seattle seduction, or a corporate chinwag.QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 35, www.panoramabar. pl. Open 18:00 - 02:00. UXW facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

August - September 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife PARDON, TO TU There are places that try to be cool, and then there are places that just are. Pardon To Tu falls comfortably into the latter. A music club for people who actually know and love music (not loud bass and lasers). Disinterested (re:cool) DJs play whatever they want for the low-key crowd of hipsters and their dogs hanging out beneath vinyl records that you can buy off the walls. They’ve got good, cheap Italian food to curb the munchies and in summer the space out front becomes a sprawling beer garden. Host to frequent concerts and film screenings, this is a veritable cultural centre and a great place to make new friends.QA-3, Pl. Grzybowski 12/14/16, tel. (+48) 513 19 16 41, www.pardontotu.pl. Open 10:00 - 02:00. UEGBW PARKING BAR Effortlessly cool dive bar on the ground floor of the biggest hi-rise car park in town (the exterior of which is decorated with, supposedly, the biggest mural in Europe). The floor is the original car park floor marked with parking spaces, crossings etc. Concrete pillars, oil drums and a row of surprisingly comfortable swing seats made from tyres make up the raw and spacious interior. A minimal amount of coloured neon lighting adds the only touch of warmth to this concrete jungle. No food or snacks, slightly shell-shocked but nice staff and when we visited they were almost out of beer - although the two functioning taps were better than the usual gut-rot. Don’t let any of that put you off, it really is strangely brilliant!QB-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (entrance from ul. Parkingowa), tel. (+48) 537 60 68 97, www.parkingbar.eu. Open 16:00 02:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. UEGBW

business plan. Besides bragging rights, we can’t really see the reason behind the massive selection, or the fact that the venue only has around a dozen tables and, even more scarily, only two toilets! In fairness, a large amount of trade comes from the oﬀ-license side of things - even the tap beers can be poured into containers and taken with you. The meticulous queuing system at the bar also detracts from it having a real pub atmosphere. Whatever the down-sides, one cannot deny their passion for real beer.QB-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34 (entrance from ul. Parkingowa), tel. (+48) 534 73 45 00, www.piwpaw.pl. Open 24hrs. GW NEW PLAC BARCELONA The string of bars and eateries along Plac Trzech Krzyży have been held in high regard by the lovely young things of Warsaw for as long as we can remember but Plac Barcelona takes things to a new level. This relatively small cocktail and tapas bar is a design dream; fitted out in cool white, pastel neon, soft white furnishings, plate glass and intimate spaces to lounge around in, it’s fair to say it wouldn’t look out of place in the coolest districts of.eh..Barcelona! Friendly staff, expert cocktail professors, weekend spin-meisters and high end alcohols make for a glamorous night out.QC-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. (+48) 501 98 87 68, www. placbarcelona.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. UEBW

NEW WEJMAN WINEBAR Hooray! At long last, a simple and unstuffy wine bar in the heart of town; small, intimate and the ideal place to just take a seat and chat about wine with the knowledgeable and attentive guys behind the bar. Working in close collaboration with one of Poland’s top importers of French wines the extensive selection may be biased towards France but you’ll also find a number of management rated wines from other countries. A ‘wine of the day’ offer, cold platters and very reasonable prices make this one of those places where once you have sat down you won’t want to leave.QB-4, ul. Zgoda 4, tel. (+48) 661 66 11 50, www.wejmanwinebar.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. 6GBW

WINESTONE The latest concept restaurant project, located within the city centre Mercure Hotel. Winestone takes its name from the fact that it stocks a great selection of ﬁne wines and also serves food on very fashionable French stone tablets, otherwise known as ‘Les Planches.’ The calming and unfussy design features an unusual violet and black colour scheme, large wooden tables and a hefty bar. Everyone can feel like a budding Oz Clarke with the rather helpfully laid out wine list which is split into four easy to decipher categories - fresh and tasty, light and fruity, balanced and elegant, full and aromatic. A newly expanded shop inside the restaurant sells wine, bread, olives and a variety of foods so you can try and recreate your experience at home. QA-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. (+48) 22 697 37 55, www.mercure.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. UGW

PIW PAW 57 tap beers and a wall of refrigerators stuﬀed to bursting with bottled beers (over 200 kinds of bottled beer eg. Polish, English, Russian, Belgian, Czech etc.) may sound like you’ve died and gone to heaven, but somewhere along the line they must have come up with a pretty odd warsaw.inyourpocket.com

BRISTOL WINE BAR The dark wood furnishings and brass/chrome ﬁttings contrast beautifully with the subdued colour scheme of the paintwork and there’s enough marble around to give Michelangelo a seizure. The stunning old and new world wine list is personally selected by local wine hero Robert Mielżyński and, considering the opulent surroundings, wines by the glass start from a very reasonable 18zl.QC-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol Warsaw), tel. (+48) 22 551 18 58, www.hotelbristolwarsaw. pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00. UEGBW

WINE BAR MIELŻYŃSKI Some claim this to be Warsaw’s best wine bar, and they might well be onto something. Expert service guarantees to identify the wine that suits you, and the selection is utterly exhaustive. An absorbing venue, with a decent menu of light bites to compliment the drinking. QD-1, ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 22 636 87 09, www.mielzynski.pl. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. UGW

PIES CZY SUKA/PURE BAR Pies Czy Suka (“Dog or Bitch”) is a high-end design boutique that opened a craft cocktail bar with stunning results. The space itself is what you’d expect when design folk are in charge: touchscreen menus and lots and lots of white. Yet the imaginative drinks are they main focus, and though they don’t arrive quickly, but they do come with a free show; creating molecular foam and juicing ﬁgs takes some elbow grease, and conversations are punctuated by the loud, rhythmic thwack of ice against the cocktail shaker. The recipes require the kind of precision normally reserved for brain surgery, and unexpected ingredients like dry ice and cranberry caviar can often mean your “drink” requires a spoon. Expensive, but worth every zloty - try the Gin Basil Smash or Tequila Rucola Smash.QB-3, ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. (+48) 501 85 01 14, www.piesczysuka.com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. GBW

62 Warsaw In Your Pocket

WINE BARS

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August - September 2014

Nightlife PLAN B Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are low - so low you’ll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has seen minimal investment, with a design that must have set the owner back the price of a packet of sausages; decor is limited to little more than tatty posters, black tiles and sofas with springs practically sticking out of them. But this place has become astonishingly popular, especially with students and other sorts who look like they’ve just finished band practice. Don’t be surprised to find the party spilling outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees and sharing sneaky puffs on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is rife and encouraged, and it’s only fair to note this place has become a bit of a magnet for expat lads looking to tap up impressionable Polish girls.QF-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54, www.planbe.pl. Open 11:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. BXW PO DRUGIEJ STRONIE LUSTRA This unique Praga bar used to be much like the district itself: artsy, mysterious and a little bit junky. But after recently moving locations, the bar has left behind the thick layers of grime and history at their former Ząbkowska location and simply brought their strongest suit - an endless collection of bottled and draught craft beers - along with them to ul. Jagiellońska. Sure, it feels a little weird to not stick to the tables and to use a toilet that has an actual seat attached, but we’re happy to exchange that “charm” for a more grown up (and cleaner!) headquarters.QH-1, ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. (+48) 534 73 40 99, www.po2stronielustra.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. XW POLONEZ KLUBOKAWIARNIA Named after the cult Polish tank of a car, the Polonez-manufactured at the FSO plant in Warsaw from 1978-2002, this cool, retro and bric-a-brac styled bar has breathed new life into the less popular end of ul. Poznańska. Behind the bar you’ll find a fine range of Polish specialist beers and a variety of nalewki (spirit-based liqueurs, previously the tipple of choice for the older generation). Even though it’s regularly packed to bursting, the wonderfully laid-back customers and atmosphere don’t turn it all into a traumatic pushand-shove experience, and whoever controls the music machine is an open-minded genius.QB-4, ul. Poznańska 24, tel. (+48) 604 94 21 69. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. EGBW SKWER - FILIA CENTRUM ARTYSTYCZNEGO FABRYKA TRZCINY An offshoot of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get to than its daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete bungle this construction looks more like a car park than bar, but don’t let that stop you from further investigations. Concerts are frequent, and frequently excellent, as are the book signings and vernissages. The location splat in the middle of Krakowskie Przedmieście means there’s no shortage of lookers to train your eyes on.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 60a, tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www. fabrykatrzciny.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00. UEGBW 64 Warsaw In Your Pocket

SOMEPLACE ELSE Someplace Else is an expat legend, and the comfortable open-plan space and industrial bar are a great setting for the mix of live sports and music that can be found here almost every night of the week. Still boasting one of the best bar menus in the city - we’re fans of the SPE Quesadillas - it’s easy to come for dinner and stay into the night to sample from the long list of extravagant cocktails.QC-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www. warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. From September open 12:00 - 01:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. UEGBW NEW SYRENI ŚPIEW This stylish lounge bar and club is the perfect spot to sip away a day or party the weekend away. Located in a centrally located park the modernist bar blends into the luscious landscape and provides a perfect terrace to lounge around on. Slide inside and let them ply you with upscale cocktails and top shelf whiskies while you schmooze to some smooth tunes. While it’s a low key high class chill during the week, on the weekends the vibe goes sublime with carefully curated live music and DJs that keep the parties going all night long. And to give you an off day, they’re closed on Sundays. Having just opened a few years ago, this melodious mermaid has already made a serious splash.QG-3, ul. Szara 10a, tel. (+48) 602 77 32 93, www.syrenispiew.pl. Open 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:30. Closed Mon, Sun. BXW THE PICTURES ART BAR CAFE Modern, slick and central, The Pictures lives up to its name with high-quality original art and photographs (no reproductions here) on the walls. While particularly pleasant during its day guise as a quiet cafe and bargain lunch spot, in the evening this place is packed with hipsters drawn to the smart service, crafty cocktail list, and simple but tasty and aﬀordable food. Some places deserve to be trendy, and this is one of them.QB-4, ul. Chmielna 26, tel. (+48) 22 826 17 83, www.thepicturesbar.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. GBW WARSAW TORTILLA FACTORY This long-established Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to hangouts for ex-pats, thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall, though discerning the various accents becomes harder with every margarita and Corona that goes missing. Once you’re inside there’s something for everyone: Sky Sports on the TV, live music on weekends, and a decent pint of Murphy’s or Guinness. The global crowd is easy to mix with and accepting of outsiders, especially when they buy the tequila shots. Added bonus: the separate smoking room will save you a trip outside. QF-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48) 22 621 86 22, www. warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. EBXW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

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Nightlife

WARSZAWA POWIŚLE Set in a former ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one of the recent summer hits, and a bit of a gathering ground for those enjoying post-Luztro fixme-ups. Interiors here are all cheap and chipboard tables included - and while it looks tatty and torn it’s become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers hiding their horror behind reflective specs (which explains why the neighbours want it shut down). How to find it? Walk down the platform on Powiśle Station, then hang a right down the stairs. An extra incentive to visit: they just underwent a huge renovation and have an expanded food menu (polish dishes & street food). QG-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel. (+48) 22 474 40 84, www.grupawarszawa.com. Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. UGBW W OPARACH ABSURDU This bar could have a weird-off with fellow Praga bar Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra that would easily end in a draw. Both favour twinkle lights, flea market knickknacks and crap furniture, though Absurdu has embraced colour, and bright murals, to set it apart. Absurdu is spread over numerous rickety levels and populated by local bohemians who crave live music and strong drinks. A small menu of snacks and Polish staples (yep, pierogis) are available to line your stomach.QH-1, ul. Ząbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.oparyabsurdu.pl. Open 12:00 - 03:00. UEXW ZNAJOMI ZNAJOMYCH With two levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer Zna Zna can feel as if you’re wandering through an M.C. Escher drawing. Here’s a primer: the first floor features a large smoking room and several adjacent rooms with seating, and the main floor has a bar with DJ/ dance floor - we saw a keytar being played - and more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of taxis outside should tell you this is currently one of Warsaw’s favourite places, with huddles of hipsters and interpretive dancers sharing space and spilling drinks together. There’s even a respectable menu of pasta and pizza that’s available into the weekend wee hours (weekdays 24:00, Fri and Sat 01:00, Sun 24:00) to soak up the booze, and a movie room for weekly Wednesday night (20:00) screenings. Recommended.QC-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48) 22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. UBXW

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CLUBS Clubs in Warsaw range from sedate to sinful, and we cover the full gamut here. A night spent clubbing means you’ll most likely greet the dawn because, unlike the closing times you might be used to, Polish clubs stay open until the sun comes up. Expect a cover charge at most venues that can range from 5-20zl depending on events, and note that toilet paper is often a luxury that seems to universally run out around 22:00. CLUB MIRAGE A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other in Warsaw. Not because it’s anything particularly special, but because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace of Culture. Descend the stairs through the entrance facing the central railway station into a mass of writhing young bodies getting down around the centrepiece fountain. Once you’re done there, retreat to the long bar and lounge area to relax before heading back out into the surprisingly unpretentious party crowd. The coat check looked after by moustachioed men in their 50s gives a small hint of the days when this place must have been frequented by the great and not so good of communist Poland.QB-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.pl. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu 21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. EX ENKLAWA It may be quiet by day, but Mazowiecka is home to a number of the city’s top night spots and high up the list comes Enklawa. Keeping their ﬁngers on the pulse of current club trends, live music and fashion events it attracts a pretty classy and sassy weekend crowd. If you can’t wait for Friday to come around, hit their truly legendary Old School Night (70’s-80’s music) on Wednesdays. Enklawa’s popularity means that invites, passwords or being able to prove that you are the lead singer of M People may be required to get past the lads on the door.QB-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 827 31 51, www.enklawa.com. Open 22:00 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. X OPERA A no-expense spared design masterpiece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend the curving stairwell and all you’ll see is boys with attitude, dressed in popped collared polo shirts, and a heart-stopping spread of gazelle-like girls. If you were wondering where the good lookers went, you’ve found the answer. Tread down wood boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena, checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place was formerly known as Bedroom, and that’s because of the alcoves found shooting oﬀ in every direction. Each comes decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities.QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri, Sat only: 22:00 - 06:00. EBXW warsaw.inyourpocket.com

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PLATINIUM CLUB Status is everything in Warsaw, and you’ll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here, mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensuring everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes both. Regarded as Warsaw’s ﬁnest club this place, set inside a historic former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with a design that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glowing ﬂoors. This is champagne living Warsaw-style, meaning hot sounds from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes way, way late.QB-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 694 41 34 39, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 06:00. UEXW

ROOM 13 CLUB & LOUNGE Warsaw has had the beneﬁt of a club explosion (clubsplosion?) lately, and after visiting venue upon venue Room 13 is the one that stands out. The interior has a striking fallen angel theme, with pillowy clouds painted across the ceilings in the multiple rooms, and giant images of what Victoria’s Secret has taught us an ‘angel’ looks like. And if your idea of heaven is two bars, a VIP room, a wide array of music and lots of high heels, then consider this your HQ.QB-3, ul. Mazowiecka 13, tel. (+48) 22 827 60 44, www.room13. pl. Open 22:13 - 06:00. Closed Tue. GW

NEW THE CLASH RESTAURANT AND CLUB Our initial disappointment upon discovering this is not in fact a locale dedicated to the memory of Strummer and his purveyors of Punk soon vanished after we realised it was in fact an arty, multi roomed venue featuring an open kitchen serving an intriguing and regularly changing fusion menu, a well-stocked bar, original artworks, craftsman made ﬁxtures and ﬁttings and a steady programme of various cultural and musical events. The name was chosen in order to emphasise the coming together of all art forms and creative ideas. From Thursday-Saturday, navigate the selection process and pop downstairs to the sparse but stylish little night club.QC-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 660 69 05 60, www.theclash.pl. GBW

BARKA Brainwave for the heatwave from the alternative guys responsible for the Plac Zbawiciela mayhem of Plan B, and the city centre avant-garde Powiększenie Club. Barka is basically a ﬂat topped barge, pimped up to look modern and cool by the designers at Project Praga. Once you’ve navigated the narrow gangways and the security blokes you’ll ﬁnd a bar, concert and dance area. A whole series of gigs and guest DJ’s will be appearing throughout the summer and the venue is regularly mobbed with partygoers. In fact it gets so busy that many visitors prefer to just make use of the riverbank area in front of the moored barge to chat and listen to the music coming from onboard. Our sympathies go out to you if you need to make use of the portaloos (Toi-toi in Polish).QG-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. EXW

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SEASONAL PLACES

August - September 2014

Adult Entertainment

Adult Entertainment Those who visited Warsaw in the nineties and around the turn of the century may have lingering memories of a seriously mucky city. With an estimated 1,500 brothels in operation the city established a reputation as a destination for hairy-palmed perverts. Then along came the late Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw who became a one man anti-sleaze machine driven by a zealous desire to restore Warsawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lost innocence. While he never fully succeeded in cleansing Warsaw of the brothels and the ďŹ&#x201A;yers, Kaczynskiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crusade had a striking impact.

COYOTE BAR & NIGHT CLUB On the new Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club is an adult entertainment establishment of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;girls in their underwear which leaves little to the imagination will dance for youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; variety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as outrageously priced as in other similar places and we have to say that the girls we bumped into when we popped in for a quick one were sirens.QB-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotenightclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00, Sun 20:00 - 03:00. UXW

One of the results of this campaign is that Warsaw now offers a collection of seemingly legitimate and, on the whole, fairly presentable â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Gentlemenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Clubsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Brothels still exist but not in the huge numbers that they once did. Although there is no speciďŹ c red light district youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ďŹ nd a small concentration of brothels around al. Jerozolimskie, ul. Wilcza and ul. Nowogrodzka. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re simple enough to ďŹ nd, just look for the ďŹ&#x201A;yers pinned to car windscreens or clogging up the gutters. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect English to be spoken, and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t reckon on being greeted by the sirens pictured on the aforementioned ďŹ&#x201A;yers.

KOKOMO One of the most central strip bars in Warsaw, though donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let that stop you taking advantage of the Kokomo limo service. From there on in itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your eyes that will be doing all the work as they pinball around their sockets focusing on the troupe of pin-up bunnies. Two rooms to choose from, as well as a well-stocked drink bar serving all the concoctions necessary to complete your preview of heaven.QB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance from ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16, www.kokomo.com.pl. Open 21:00 - 04:00. G

Now, in the old days weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d use this space to fire some recommendations your way. Legal factors now make that a foolhardy path to pursue, so instead we advise prospective punters to visit the Polish forums on www. internationalsexguide.com, where the message boards are alive with the latest dispatches from the frontline, as well as pics and maps from the more committed posters. For independent girls check websites such as www.odloty.pl and www.sexatlas.pl, where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find a choice of literally hundreds upon hundreds of feisty Polish girls promising a lively time. Your third choice is to simply put your faith in a taxi driver. More often than not this will involve being driven to the suburbs and to whichever brothel is giving the cabbie a kickback. Prices in these â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;high endâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; establishments will tend to start at 200zĹ&#x201A;, though donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be tricked into buying champers for the lady unless youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re sure you can afford it. Similarly, greenhorns should watch their wallet in strip clubs - bills easily spiral, even more so when the drinks start being poured.

NEW ORLEANS GENTLEMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CLUB From Sunday to Wednesday youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ďŹ nd the girls kitted out in evening dress, with a higher-class of punter choosing the girl of his dreams before sitting down to a good, intelligent natter. Of course, this being a strip club, the removal of the aforementioned evening dress is also an available option. At weekends youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ďŹ nd New Orleans reverting to the more standard formula, with girls tottering around in next to nothing, and oďŹ&#x20AC;ering the usual hip-grinding action. Now added, a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;night restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; with an â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;eroticâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; menu featuring oysters, lobster and Argie steak. If they ďŹ&#x201A;ow runs low just saunter akwardly over to their in house ATM machine.QB-3, ul. Zgoda 11, tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www. neworleans.pl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 05:00. Note that everyday the bar opens at 18:00, while the club doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t open until 21:00. XW

Scumbag, ďŹ&#x201A;y-by-night brothels still exist; STDs are a fact of the trade, and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think for one jiďŹ&#x20AC;y youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re beyond reproach. Do not assume either that the Barbie of your choice is in on the game because she enjoys rolling around with aging baldies. Poland has an appalling record where human traďŹ&#x192;cking is concerned, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s safe to assume a fair few ladies staďŹ&#x192;ng such venues have been coerced into their â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;careerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Finally, the venues listed here are generally central and established but please be warned that in recent months weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had a report of 8,000zĹ&#x201A; being spent willingly in one club listed here and another of 8,000 sterling being spent unwillingly in one which is not listed here. In the second case half of the money was retrieved from the bank because of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;payment irregularitiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; but be on your guard. 68 Warsaw In Your Pocket

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SOFIA A legend in nineties and noughties Warsaw, there was a time no self-respecting male could leave Warsaw without having ďŹ rst visited SoďŹ a. Those days may have gone and so it seemed had SoďŹ a. But it appears not with the opening of this place, three years after the original closed, just down from Pl. Zbawiciela which boasts a modern spacious club area and a host of minimally dressed women. In the wild days of nineties Warsaw this was known in local parlance as The Bulgarian Embassy. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be interesting to see if it lives up to the reputation it built then.QF-4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24, www.klubsofia.pl. Open 20:00 05:00. Closed Sun. UX

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Essential Warsaw Sightseeing and Warsaw don’t usually go together, and the reason, if not the blame, for that falls on her citizens. While some cities may have been happy to wait out Nazi occupation, the Warsaw locals were having none of that. The ensuing uprising which took place in 1944 would become both the most glorious and tragic episode in Photo by Stanisław Kłosin the city’s history. Doomed from the outset the Warsaw Uprising enraged Hitler, and his retribution proved swift and brutal. Warsaw was to be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting western Warsaw into oblivion. Anything deemed of cultural importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on ﬁre. By the time ‘liberation’ arrived, over 90% of the city lay in total ruin. “I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction,” commented a visibly moved Dwight Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the Polish capital. Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old Town, and it’s here that most tourists will choose to start their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt, with the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late as 1962. The area’s inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes for the eﬀort involved, and nothing is more striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that frame the Old Town Square (B-1/2, Rynek Starego Miasta). Wilanó Wil a ów Pala anó Palaace ce | Phot hoootto to by W. Holnnick ickii

Warsaw Sightseeing DISCOVER THE CAPITAL’S MANY TREASURES

The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, including the striking St. John’s Cathedral (B-2, ul. Świętojańska 8) whose details number gothic artworks as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens. Marking the edge of the Old Town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl. Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Although you’ll ﬁnd plenty of photographic opportunities in and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for the viewing platform at the top of St. Anne’s Church (B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68), and don’t leave the area without ﬁrst exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town. There is far more to Warsaw than its Old Town however, and one museum that demands to be visited is the Warsaw Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79). It’s here, inside Poland’s best museum, that you’ll learn about the facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

city’s doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous exhibits this is guaranteed to leave a deep mark on all visitors, and will go a long way in explaining why Warsaw is far from the architectural pearl it once was. Although the Nazis flattened the Jewish Ghetto after a heroic uprising in 1943 there are still traces of Warsaw’s Jewish past, including a remaining piece of the Ghetto wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55), a memorial where the loading ramp to Treblinka once stood (E-1, Umschlagplatz) as well as one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe (D-1, ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been unveiled, it’s course interspersed 21 dual-language plaques at sights of specific interest. The city’s defining landmark however has to be the fearsome Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking like something you’d see in Ghostbusters the building towers at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the building was completed in 1955 and built using an estimated 40 million bricks. The crowning glory of the structure is the viewing platform on the 30th floor, a must see. And while it’s the most obvious, it’s not the only example of the Socialist Realist style, and visitors have plenty to marvel at from the everyman residential units of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji, to the stern looking block that once housed Communist HQ (C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 6). Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war Ząbkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaw’s Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular Łazienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1) and Wilanów Palace - dubbed ‘The Polish Versailles’ - (ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 10/16). August - September 2014

Sightseeing

Sightseeing GUIDED TOURS ADVENTURE WARSAW Tours of Warsaw including the popular “oﬀ the beaten path” tour which delves into Socialism, communism and of course vodka, all while cruising in a vintage Nysa 522. You can even get inside the Palace of Culture and Science for a look around. Group, private and walking tours also available from this crew of young, enthusiastic local guides, who will even take you and your stag party around town or host a pub crawl. Make time to check out their Museum of Life in the PRL (Muzeum Życia PRLu, open 10:00 - 16:00, admission 8/5zł).Qul. Mińska 25 (Praga Południe), tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.com.

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Yellow Double-Decker Bus Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way. Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hours, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites. A GPS 12 language audio system, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

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CITY SIGHTSEEING WARSAW If Warsaw needed proof that it has ﬁnally arrived as a tourist destination surely the launch of City Sightseeing is it. Hourlong tours by way of a familiar red, double-decker bus let you take in sights such as the Palace of Culture, the Royal Castle, Łazienki Park and the Wybrzeże Gdańskie. Buy one ticket and hop on and oﬀ the bus as you please. The bus departs daily between 10:00-17:00 from the Palace of Culture on the Emilii Plater side (last tour leaves at 17:00). Commentary available in a multitude of languages including English, Polish, Spanish, French, German, Italian, Russian, Chinese, Japanese, Finnish and Hebrew. The recently added a new blue line that goes to the National Stadium daily from 10:3016:30. See their website for tour details, routes and timetables.Qtel. (+48) 793 97 33 56, www.city-sightseeing.pl. Tickets 24hr 60zł, 48hr 80zł, one trip 40zł.

SEGWAY CITY TOURS Consider it the next generation of Warsaw tours: visitors are propelled 10km around town on Segway Personal Transporters (helmets, rain coats and instructions provided!) and shown a vast swath of the city in around 3 hours. Tours depart daily from the hotel Bristol and cost 347zl per person and require booking in advance. They also oﬀer a 1.5 hour tour for 229zł per person. After the tour they give you a voucher for a post-tour cocktail in Karmnik.Qtel. (+48) 600 31 03 20, www.segwaycitytours.pl. STATION WARSAW Warsaw’s first bike tour company gets it right with a range of 3-hour routes that take visitors to places that stray from the usual Old Town tourist traps and promise great photo opportunities. The Wild Vistula trip gets you up close to the river while the Cold War HQ trip will have you climbing through a three story underground Atomic Command Headquarters. Call in advance to arrange a tour, or sign on for their daily bike tour at 11:00, 15:30 daily. After booking they will let you know the starting location. Bike tours go from May-September and walking tours depart daily at 11:00 from King Sigismund’s Column for a 2.5-hour wander through the Old Town.Qtel. (+48) 513 60 55 18, www.stationwarsaw. com. Bike tours 100zł; walking tour free (but be sure to tip).

CREATOURS Whether you love it or loathe it, the Palace of Culture (PKiN) is a spectacularly imposing architectural reminder of the Communist era. We love it, and there is no better way of visiting than taking one of CREATours guided jaunts around the most imposing halls and chambers in the building. The tour culminates in a visit to the 30th ﬂoor viewing platform for stunning views of the city. Those who loathe it are keen to point out that the viewing platform is also one of the only places in Warsaw from which you won’t have to view the building itself!QB-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Marszałkowska), tel. (+48) 22 656 61 48, www.creatours.pl.

WARSAW CITY-TOUR Bus tours of Warsaw on a yellow double-decker bus. In August they will have 8 trips from 09:50 till 17:50. From September 1-15, they will offer 7 trips from 09:50 till 16:50 and from September 16 onward they will have only 4 trips about 09:50, 11:50, 13:50 and 15:50. The entire route takes about 1.5-2 hours and covers all the major sites in the city including the Old Town, Jewish Warsaw, WWII, Palace of Culture and Lazienki Park.Qtel. (+48) 500 03 34 14, www.city-tour.com.pl. Single journey ticket 40/34zł. One day ticket 60/54 zł. Two day ticket 80/72zł. Family tickets (2 adults and 2 children) 205zl/day, 274zl/2days; 130zl single journey; (2 adults and 3 children 254zl/day, 340zl 2 days; 160zl single journey). One and two day tickets offer hop on/ hop off option.

EAT WARSAW Ever wondered what Polish cuisine has to oﬀer beyond pierogi? Let energetic tour guides Magda (food) and Michał (vodka) lead you round some of their favourite haunts and introduce you to how the locals guzzle and gulp! Sample a variety of Polish dishes and vodkas while learning how social and historical events shaped the popularity of Polish cuisine. Walking between venues also allows the knowledgeable guides to point out places of interest (The Food Tour lasts about 4 hours and the Vodka Tour is about 3) They also oﬀer cooking workshops if you want to polish your Polish cooking chops (literally). Make sure to book ahead by phone or through their website.Qtel. (+48) 513 60 55 18, www.eatwarsaw.com. Food tours (includes a full meal, plus dessert) 290zł; Vodka tours 190zł.

NEW WPT 1313 Now here’s a novel idea; buy up a ﬂeet of legendary communist era Polski Fiat 125P cars, restore them, paint them New York cab yellow and provide tours around the city with your very own quirky and highly informative driver/guide. A great way to take a trip into the past, learn something and travel around in one of the most iconic vehicles of the 1960’s-70’s. Tours include; “Crafty Warsaw Man” - around the historically dodgy and fascinating area of Praga, Jewish Warsaw and the Traces of Chopin tour. For detailed info on all their services and to make a booking visit the company website. www.wpt1313.comQtel. (+48) 22 882 13 13, www.wpt1313.com.

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August - September 2014

Sightseeing WARSAW STREET MURALS

Sightseeing CHURCHES Many Poles still see a direct connection between the church and patriotism, explained much by the fact that during centuries of oppression by neighbouring powers, the church helped the nation of Poland to survive by giving Poles an identity. Although on the wane in post-communist Poland, the church still plays an important role in many people’s lives and churches reﬂect the importance of religion in the history of the Polish nation.

Poland has long embraced the fact that large scale artwork and design motifs can be a fascinating and creative option for advertising or, more recently, as an outlet for the artistic visions of local and international street and mural artists. During the communist era huge advertisements would be painted onto the gable ends of buildings and factories. With the current fashion for all things retro and the undeniable coolness of Polish design from the 1960’s - 80’s the remaining wall paintings are once again being seen as something to cherish. A fine example, advertising the Toto lottery, can be seen on a vast wall along ul. Widok (B-4) in the city centre; its current shabby state only adds to its sense of history and charm. One of our favourites adorns the end wall of a tenement block along ul. Wolska (D-2), a crazy typographical mishmash of overlayed texts headed by the PRL slogan of ‘Mleko = Zdrowie’ (Milk = Health). This building can be spotted as you tootle along ul. Towarowa on the tram in the direction of the must-see Warsaw Uprising Museum. Launched in 2010, the Bliżej Konsumenta (Closer to the Customer) organisation aims to document and protect the small number of original communist era advertising murals which are still with us. Their map, highlighting worthy walls, is available as a free download from the Modern Art Museum website (www.artmuseum.pl). Today, street art around the city is going through a tidal wave of popularity and notoriety. This summer’s fifth edition of the Street Art Doping Festival invited three of Europe’s top street artists, Dome (Germany), Sam3 (Spain) and Phlegm (UK), to leave their large scale marks around town. Their murals can be seen at ul. Racławicka 17 (F-6), ul. Rakowiecka 2c (F/G-5) and ul. Mińska 12 (in Praga Południe) respectively. Homegrown work can also be seen all around the city, with the more down at heel districts of Praga (G/H-1) and Wola being particularly well represented. To help you find some of the city-centre highlights of Warsaw’s growing street art scene, we’ve marked known murals with a icon on the city maps in the back of this guide. Check it out! 74 Warsaw In Your Pocket

CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF THE VIRGIN MARY AND OF ST. JOSEPH (KOŚCIÓŁ WNIEBOWZIĘCIA NAJŚWIĘTSZEJ MARYI PANNY I ŚWIĘTEGO JÓZEFA OBLUBIEŃCA) Known more commonly as the Carmelite Church, this structure features a stunning neoclassical facade originally created in the 18th century. It features twin belfries and is most notable for being the site of Chopin’s first employment as he was invited to perform a recital on the church’s organ. The church is set directly next to the Presidential Palace and is unfortunately only open during mass.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 52/54, tel. (+48) 22 556 61 00, www.wmsd.waw.pl/kosciol. Open by prior arrangement. No visiting during mass please. HOLY CROSS CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. KRZYŻA) No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.

of note include an urn with the remains of Nobel Prize winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please. JESUIT CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ JEZUITÓW) Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Waza’s confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church was constructed between 1609 and 1626 for the city’s Jesuit community. Having had something of a varied and colourful history to say the least, it suﬀered at the hands of the Swedes in the latter half of the 17th century, who looted it of its entire contents, and it even spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the city’s patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt between 1948 and 1957, the church has a few remaining original interior parts - of particular interest is the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother herself. The crypt, not open to visitors, contains the remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher to King Władysław IV.QB-2, ul. Świętojańska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.laskawa. pl. Open 09:00 - 15:30, Sun 14:00 - 15:30. No visiting during mass please.

Although this serves as the church’s key draw there’s several other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this astonishing Baroque creation. The church’s history originally dates from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel stood on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the church was rebuilt in 1682, with the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub, son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal architect, Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in 1696 though over time would see numerous additions to its shape. The most notable of these would come in the following century when Józef Fontana added two Baroque crowns to the square-cut twin towers. His son Jakub would later extensively refurbish the façade with Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative touches to the interior.

MILITARY CATHEDRAL (KATEDRA POLOWA WOJSKA POLSKIEGO) Comprised of both the St. Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built between 1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary Military Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Lady Queen of the Polish Crown, is the capital’s main garrison church. Having spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison, orphanage and a depot for German soldiers during WWI the church was reconstructed based on original 17th-century drawings after independence in 1918 and became the seat of the ﬁeld bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its destruction during WWII, the church is now decorated with a peculiar mix of religious and military artefacts, including a number of large oil paintings depicting the most well known of Poland’s battles and uprisings.QB-2, ul. Długa 13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687 77 02, www.katedrapolowa.pl. Open 07:30 - 21:00. No visiting during mass please.

Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in Warsaw, and other points

ST. BENNO’S CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. BENONA) Benno’s has a wacky history. King Sigismund III was a devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests from Bavaria to Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim was to support Germans living outside their home country. Ironically, in 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by you-knowwho. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an interesting interior dating from 1977.QB-1, ul. Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 578 70 10, www.swbenon.redemptorysci.eu. Open during mass and by prior arrangement.

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TADEUSZ KOŚCIUSZKO History produces few men like Tadeusz Kościuszko (1746-1817). Kościuszko’s highest ideal was freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed and is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the land. In another country - America - he succeeded, and yet has been almost completely forgotten. A monument to the man was unveiled in November 2010 in the presence of the Polish President and the US Ambassador. The monument is an exact copy of one in Washington by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf of the Polish nation. At its unveiling outside of the White House in 1910 the promise was made to erect a copy in Poland if ever the country regained its independence. The man himself was educated in Warsaw and Paris during which time Poland was partitioned for the first time in 1772. Kościuszko found himself attracted to the American fight for independence and arrived in Philadelphia aged 30. It was as a colonel in the engineering corps that Kościuszko distinguished himself and it was his choice of Bemis Heights as the place to engage the British that was to become the decisive turning point of the northern campaign - the Battle of Saratoga in October 1777. Kościuszko was then charged with fortifying West Point, New York, where he built an impenetrable fortress that would later become America’s premier military academy. Rewarded with citizenship, the rank of Brigadier General and land near Columbus, Ohio, at the end of hostilities, Kościuszko found himself instead drawn back to Poland whose aggressive neighbours continued to threaten its sovereignty. On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth created the first constitution in modern Europe (second in the world after America), which enacted widespread reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792. Kościuszko again distinguished himself in battle and became regarded as Poland’s leading military strategist having never been defeated. However the neighbouring powers further reduced the power and size of Poland through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21, 1793) leaving Kościuszko to resolve that the Poles were going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain their independence. What followed came to be known as the Kościuszko Uprising. Kościuszko, using his experience of the American war of Independence, led his ill-equipped peasant army to victory over the Russian army at Racławice. The ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read more about the man in our feature online. QA/B-3, Pl. Za Żelazną Bramą. August - September 2014

Sightseeing THE EASTERN WALL

Reeling from near total annihilation the post-war years saw Warsaw emerge as Europe’s biggest brickyard as it struggled to rebuild itself from the ashes. Initially the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration, a disastrous move that saw all manner of brutalist monstrosities rise from the ruins. The competition in Warsaw is fierce, but probably nastiest of the lot is the development dubbed ‘the Eastern Wall’ (Ściana Wschodnia), a collection of buildings and tower block running from Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4) to ul. Świętokrzyska (B-3). Architect Zbigniew Karpiński - the guy who also designed the bunker-like US Embassy on ul. Piękna - won the competition to rebuild the area and set about remodelling the centre of Warsaw with the zealous glee of a complete nutter. Construction kicked off in 1962 and was completed seven years later, the result being four department stores, the Rotunda bank building, a blockish office building behind it, a cinema, and even a nightclub. Towering over it all were three residential blocks situated on Świętokrzyska (85 metres), Zgoda (87 metres) and Chmielna (81 metres). Originally hailed a work of genius the Eastern Wall soon became a bit of a rusty elephant, crippled and blackened with age and neglect. The collapse of communism breathed new life into the complex - Poland’s first McDonald’s was opened at the Świętokrzyska end of the complex, while the office block behind the Rotunda temporarily held the title for having the largest billboard in the world. More recently steps have been taken to polish up the area with shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end. But snoop behind the area around McD’s and you’ll find a glorious blast to the past, with smashed pavements, useless bare-lit supermarkets and a couple of cafes selling ersatz coffee to hunched old men smoking cigarettes by the fistful. 76 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Sightseeing ST. CASIMIR’S CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ BENEDYKTYNEK - SAKRAMENTEK) Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to commemorate her husband’s victory over the Turkish army at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was designed by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692. In 1944 it served as a Polish field hospital, and received a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than 1,000 civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were inside. Today it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden cross as tribute to those who died. Please note that the church specially requests solemnity and quiet while visiting.QB-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.pl. Open by prior arrangement. ST. FRANCIS SERAPH CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ STYGMATÓW ŚW. FRANCISZKA SERAFICKIEGO) Completed in 1733 this baroque masterpiece holds the remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin for yourself by visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the religious relics found scattered around were donated by Pope Benedict XIV in 1754, and this church is also entered in the history books as holding the first free mass in Warsaw following the flight of the Nazis. Currently the left nave is obscured due to renovations, but the rest of the church is open.QB-1, ul. Zakroczymska 1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa. franciszkanie.pl. Open 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please. ST. MARY’S CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ NAWIEDZENIA NMP) Scan the horizon of the New Town and chances are you’ll find your eyes settling on the Gothic shape of the Church of the Visitation of St Mary. Built in the 15th century on the whim of a Mazovian princess this brick beauty allegedly stands on the site of an ancient pagan place of worship. Extensively remodelled over the centuries it was rebuilt true to its original form after WWII.QB-1, ul. Przyrynek 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 22 53, www.przyrynek.pl. Open 30 minutes before and during mass only and by prior arrangement.

MONUMENTS ADAM MICKIEWICZ MONUMENT Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in 1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at the border, and he never saw his native Poland again. Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has been covered up, including his involvement in strange cults and alleged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace remains a hot source of argument. Some say warsaw.inyourpocket.com

Nowogródek (Lithuania), others say the nearby Zaolsie. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickiewicz’s body now lies in Wawel Cathedral, Kraków. His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, and traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on the monument.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5. CROSS-MONUMENT Nine metres high and made of white granite June 6, 2009 saw the unveiling of giant cross on pl. Piłsudskiego. It was here that Pope John Paul II returned to Warsaw for the first time after being made pope, and it was also on this spot a candlelit vigil was held when news first broke of his death. The inscription is taken from his sermon and reads: ‘Let your spirit come down and renew the face of earth, this earth’. Unveiled by Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz and Archbishop Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monument was designed by Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciński and Natalia Wilczak.QB3, Pl. Piłsudskiego. IGNACY PADEREWSKI Born in Kuryłówka in 1860 Paderewski is fondly remembered as a politican, patriot and musician. Having entered the Warsaw Conservatorium at the age of 12 he worked as a piano tutor after graduation. The death of his wife, just a year after they married, spurred him to commit his life to music and in 1887 he made his public debut in Vienna. His talent was obvious and his growing popularity saw him storm both Europe and the States, not just as a pianist, but a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris during WWI and it was during this time he became actively involved in politics, becoming spokesman for the Polish National Committee. With the end of the war he sought a return to his homeland where, having played a key role in the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw Poznań merged into the newly reformed Polish state), he was elected Poland’s third ever prime minister. It was he who signed for Poland’s part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall from grace was just around the corner. Many thought he had sold Poland short and in the face of growing public discontent he resigned from office in December 1919. A short stint as Poland’s representative in the League of Nations followed before he opted to resume his musical career. Aside from being a skilled musician, the mop haired Paderewski was also a popular public speaker, known for his devastating wit. One anecdote recalls him being introduced to a polo player with the words: ‘You are both leaders in your spheres, though the spheres are very different’. Not one to miss a beat Paderewski deadpanned ‘Not so very different, you are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

who plays solo’. During WWII he became an eminent figure in the London based exiled Polish Parliament, though died in 1941 with the country of his birth still under occupation. QG-4, Park Ujazdowski. JAN KILIŃSKI MONUMENT A huge monument honouring Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence; an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on pl. Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being finally relocated to ul. Podwale in 1959.QB-2, ul. Podwale. JÓZEF PIŁSUDSKI MONUMENT Casting a steely gaze over the square named in his honour is a gloomy looking Field Marshal Piłsudski, a man many Poles hold responsible for winning the country its independence in 1918. Regarded as a political and military hero this man did more than most to free Poland from the shackles of Russian control; his early years saw him imprisoned in Siberia after being wrongfully convicted of plotting to assassinate the Tsar, though his finest hour undoubtedly came in 1920 when he beat off the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of Warsaw, inadvertently saving a battered post-war Europe from being flooded by the rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995 this particular monument is the work of Tadeusz Łodziany, and Piłsudski fans can view another such monument to the man on ul. Belwederska. QF-2, Pl. Piłsudskiego. KING SIGISMUND’S COLUMN Built in honour of the man who made Warsaw the capital of Poland, the column was erected back in 1664 and stands twenty two metres high. During the war the column collapsed under bombardment and the original now lies close to the Royal Castle (and is considered lucky to touch). The figure of Sigismund survived and the new column was proudly re-erected in 1949.QB-2, Pl. Zamkowy. August - September 2014

Sightseeing FOTOPLASTIKON Now, you may hear some people claiming this to be the only fotoplastikon in Europe. This is clearly a lie there’s one across the road in the Palace of Culture, for a start. Nonetheless, don’t let that stop your visit. Hidden away in a darkened pre-war tenement a visit here really is a trip back in time. So what the devil is a fotoplastikon? Invented in Germany in the second half of the 19th century they’re basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) set inside a great big drumlike contraption. Presenting vivid images from across the world these groovy machines became an absolute sensation and at any onetime there were an estimated 250 in Europe. Warsaw apparently got its ﬁrst in 1901, and the one on show here is thought to be from 1905. Although fotoplastikons were made obsolete by improved camera and ﬁlm technology this one continued to open for the public, and during the war apparently served as a contact point for the Polish underground. Its role as a meeting point for academics and intellectuals continued well into communism, and today this family run operation allows visitors to glimpse Warsaw and other global landmarks in their pre-war glory. The show lasts 20 minutes and comes highly recommended.QF-3, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 4/2zł. Sun free. N NICOLAUS COPERNICUS MONUMENT The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, he made his observations a century before the invention of the telescope and without help or guidance. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itself was unveile in 1830 and has seen its fair share of adventure. During WWII the Nazi’s placed a bronze plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue was recovered in the years following the war, while Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his bravery. The plaque at the centre of the storm is currently held in Warsaw’s History Museum.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście. 78 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Sightseeing NIKE Just before hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town visitors can’t fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as in the Greek Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with sword raised aloft this noble structure is actually officially named ‘Monument to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-1945’, and remembers the thousands of locals who fought against - and died under - Nazi rule. The statue made its debut in 1964, originally standing on pl. Teatralny. This was before there was any official memorial to the Warsaw Uprising, and as such Nike became the favoured assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as student agitators in later years. In 1997 Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved facelift and the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to her current spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the cars and buses that gasp to-and-fro. QB-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). SYRENA The mermaid is the symbol of Warsaw, and as such you’ll find her likeness on everything from buses to beer cans. The legend dates to the time of Prince Kazimierz, who allegedly got lost while on a hunting expedition in the area that is now Warsaw. Behold, a mermaid transpired from the marshland, and guided the hapless prince to safety by firing burning arrows. Firmly established as an icon of Warsaw you’ll find three mermaid statues in Warsaw, specifically on (C-1), Old Town Square, (D-2), Świętokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The original mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in the Historical Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the expert hand of Ludwika Nitschowa. Modelling for her was actress Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on the first day of the Uprising while working as a field nurse. TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER The only surviving part of the destroyed Saxon Palace. The palace was constructed during the 17th century though the tomb was not added to the complex until 1925. Eerily, the tomb was the only part of the structure to survive being dynamited by the Nazis. The ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have been fittingly added.QB-3, Pl. Piłsudskiego. ‘TO THOSE DEPORTED AND MURDERED IN THE EAST’ Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.QE-1, Intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Muranowska. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

MUSEUMS Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of museums dotted around and even older ones are getting facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century. There are still instances of poor or no English language explanations but these are becoming less common. Without doubt the big three places on your list should be the Uprising Museum which charts the deﬁning period in the history of modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre which is the city’s most interactive and visitor friendly museum and the Chopin Museum which is both interesting and Warsaw’s best example of a modern museum experience. Most museums listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of which can be found in our culture and events section. ADAM MICKIEWICZ MUSEUM OF LITERATURE (MUZEUM LITERATURY IM. ADAMA MICKIEWICZA) Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as aving a number of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading Polish writers. If Polish writers are your bag be sure to check out the three other related sites that are part of the city’s Museum of Literature and celebrate historic authors: the Władysław Broniewski Museum of Literature at ul. J. Dąbrowskiego 51 (F-6), the Andrzej Strug Museum of Literature at Al. Niepodległości 210/10a (F-4) and the Maria Dąbrowska Museum of Literature at ul. Polna 40/31 (F-4). QB-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.muzeumliteratury.pl. Open 10:00 - 15:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat and every last Sun of the month. Admission 6/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibit only. N ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM (MUZEUM ETNOGRAFICZNE) Tragically overlooked by far too many visitors to Warsaw (who can’t see past World War II and communism) this is a joy of a museum that showcases and highlights all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage. There are costumes, handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions, art, photographs; most of it is beautifully presented in what is a superb building. There are also exhibitions of African and Australasian (the latter closed until the end of the year) ethnographic art, and the museum is one of the city’s most active, putting on all sorts of temporary exhibitions and organising hands-on events and workshops. Directors of Warsaw’s other museums might want to come and take notes. Just brilliant, and unquestionably essential. A major renovation was recently completed and two permanent exhibits of interest can be explored: Time to Celebrate Polish and European Folk Culture and Ordinary Extraordinary.QB-3, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł. Sat free. U facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

MULTIMEDIA FOUNTAIN PARK This tourist attraction was opened in May 2011 as part of the city of Warsaw’s ongoing attempt to increase the city’s number of cultural and tourist attractions and has been met with widespread acclaim and approval. Located in the Podzamcze district a short walk to the north of the old town, the Multimedia Fountain Park as it is known is a visual delight combining music, light and, as the name suggests, fountains. Built on the site of a derelict concrete pond, the fountain is part of a plan to revitalize this central Warsaw district by attracting visitors from the tourist trail close by and cost over 11 million PLN to create. Featuring 367 nozzles which are capable of firing water 800 cubic metres of water 25m into the air over the rebuilt, 3,000 square metre pond, the stunning visual show is provided by the synchronisation of 295 LED RGB lights combined with a laser projector with the fountain. Shows last about 30 minutes and include sets where the fountains are lit in a myriad of colours or where lasers create visual effects such as the Warsaw symbol of Syrena (the Mermaid) moving through the water. By far the most impressive part of the show is where a series of films and images are projected onto a wall of water created by the spray from the fountains. You’ll see films following themes such as Chopin’s Warsaw, Modern Warsaw or Legends of Warsaw projected with remarkable clarity onto this wall of water while pieces of music ranging from Chopin to Lady Gaga blast from the surrounding speakers. The shows have proved so popular that visitors are warned to take up a position as early as possible on the banked viewing terraces in order to get the best views and early demand resulted in the number of shows being increased to satisfy the large numbers of locals and foreign tourists wanting to experience the show. We thoroughly recommend it and while it is hardly the Bellagio show from Vegas it is definitely an enjoyable way to spend time after dining in the old town or as a starting point to the evening ahead.QB-1, Skwer im. I Dywizji Pancernej, www.estrada.com.pl. Shows take place Friday and Saturday nights at 21:30 in August and 21:00 in September.

Photo: Michał Radwański

August - September 2014

Sightseeing GALLERY OF PAINTINGS, SCULPTURE AND THE DECORATIVE ARTS (GALERIA MALARSTWA, RZEŹBY I SZTUKI ZDOBNICZEJ) The east wing of the Royal Castle’s main floor is now home to a permanent exhibition of various works of art that had formerly been spread throughout the property, including two works by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame and The Scholar at the Lectern. Both paintings were part of a major donation of 37 works of art given by Countess Karolina Lanckorońska, a Polish resistance fighter and concentration camp survivor who, upon Poland’s return to independence in 1989, bequeathed her family’s art collection to the nation. The Castle has done an impressive job of staging the artworks, with muted walls and focused lighting keeping all the attention on the various portraits of 16th and 17th century royalty like Marie Antoinette and still life paintings of flower-filled bounties. There’s also a room devoted to porcelain, tapestries and glassware from the era. The Castle’s free admission on Sundays have seen the new gallery overrun with visitors, so serious art lovers will want to pay for the chance to wander at a less harried pace. QB-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł, family ticket 10zł per person. Sun free. U KRÓLIKARNIA

Królikarnia, which translates as “the rabbit house,” is a lavish palace in Mokotów named for its role as King Augustus II the Strong’s rabbit warren for hunting. Built between 1782 and 1786, the palace has been home to a number of interesting residents including insurrection leader Tadeusz Kościuszko and Charles Thomatis, a man many believe acted as a pimp for King Stanisław August Poniatowski. Like much of Warsaw, the palace was obliterated during the war but meticulously rebuilt in 1964 and now operates as an art museum that features the works of famed Polish sculptor and Auschwitz survivor Xawery Dunikowski on the verdant park grounds (you can keep an eye out for The Soul Escaping the Body, a sculpture that is replicated on Dunikowski’s tombstone). Visitors can end their museum visit with a meal courtesy of the café which prepares picnics and oﬀers blankets for outdoor dining, a must considering its 80 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Sightseeing location on an escarpment overlooking the Vistula. Visiting hours are 6 am until dusk.QG-7, ul. Puławska 113a, tel. (+48) 22 843 15 86, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/4zł, Thu free. N MUSEUM OF INDEPENDENCE (MUZEUM NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI) Rather ironically, the museum that charts Poland’s struggle for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during communist rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum covers all the key dates of Polish history, including the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, Piłsudski’s return to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity (though this last exhibit is currently unavailable). Among the 48,000 exhibits are objects recovered from WWII concentration camps, and some wonderful displays of Socialist Realist artwork. Two of the current exhibitions on display are the Kościuszko Uprising 1794 and Polonia Restituta about independence and borders 1914-1921.QB-2, Al. Solidarności 62, tel. (+48) 22 826 90 91, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.pl. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5zł. Thu free. N MUSEUM OF JOHN PAUL II COLLECTION (MUZEUM KOLEKCJI IM. JANA PAWŁA II) This is exactly the kind of overlooked museum that houses gems tourists will consider themselves lucky to stumble upon. In 1986 Janina and Zbigniew Carroll-Porczynski gifted the country with 400 paintings and sculptures acquired through years of dabbling in Western European art. The Carroll-Porczynskis themselves are an interesting duo - she was sent to Sibera in 1940, then matriculated to Rhodesia and England where she obtained several degrees while he was part of the Home Army and sent to Pawiak Prison, Auschwitz and Buchenwald before going to England and getting a PhD. Their collection is now housed in the historical Bank of Poland building and includes a unicorn sculpture by Salvador Dali, a painting of Renoir’s son Pierre, an idyllic farm scene by Van Gogh, the head of John the Baptist by Rodin…the mind boggles at the list of noted artists housed here. The Bank’s soaring rotunda is home to over 80 self-portraits, and the ﬁrst ﬂoor houses works of a more religious nature. One of the most stunning is Wojciech Gerson’s Baptism of Lithuania, a massive painting that represents Lithuania’s baptism into Christianity. A lack of surly museum maids and a well-marked route make the JPII museum even more enjoyable.QA-2, Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. (+48) 22 620 27 25. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4 zł. N MUSEUM OF PRIEST JERZY POPIEŁUSZKO (MUZEUM BŁOGOSŁAWIONEGO KS. JERZEGO POPIEŁUSZKI) You’d probably think a museum honouring a priest doesn’t sound like much fun, and indeed this place really isn’t. However, it is a very decent detour if you happen to warsaw.inyourpocket.com

be in the Żoliborz area, and that’s because Father Jerzy was no ordinary priest. Popiełuszko came to national attention in the early1980s for his fierce anti-communist rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free Europe and Solidarity it wasn’t long till he ran afoul of the internal security services. In 1984, with Poland in political chaos, they decided to get rid of him altogether. A car accident was set up for this purpose, though Popiełuszko somehow survived unscathed. Six days later he was abducted, beaten and murdered, his corpse dumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of 250,000 mourners and made headlines the world over. Today the basement of his former parish church has been turned into a museum to remember not just his life, but the whole struggle for post-war freedom. Newssheets printed by the underground, banners from the Solidarity strikes and pictures of the funeral are among the many items on display, as are the clothes he was wearing when he was kidnapped. Particularly poignant is a curved wall, it’s bricks inscribed with the names of martyrs ‘dealt with’ by security services between 1981 and 1989.Qul. Kardynała Stanisława Hozjusza 2 (Żoliborz), tel. (+48) 22 561 00 56, www. popieluszko.net.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Donations welcome. NATIONAL MUSEUM (MUZEUM NARODOWE W WARSZAWIE) Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war building, Warsaw’s National Museum has thankfully just reopened after a long renovation that has seen many changes including the renovation of the museum’s main courtyard, a major rearrangement of the permanent galleries and an impressive upcoming schedule of temporary exhibits. Considering the new overhaul this museum is a must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name since 1916, there’s a huge array of permanent exhibitions and antiquities. Visitors will find a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings in the Gallery of Old European Paintings and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century onwards, including some of the best work by the country’s leading names in art - Chełmoński and Matejko to name a few. There is also a large gallery of medieval art and a new gallery dedicated to works from the 20th and 21st centuries is well worth a look for fans of more recent pieces.QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes before closing. Ticket prices: permanent exhibitions 15/10zł, entire museum 20/15zł. Family ticket: 40zł permanent exhibits, 50zł entire museum. Tue free for permanent exhibition. Y NEON MUSEUM A brilliantly illuminating (ha!) private initiative by London-based photographer Ilona Karwińska and graphic designer David S. Hill to salvage Poland’s culturally significant neon signs of the 1960’s-70’s from the dustbin facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION This central tourist information oﬃce is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station on the Złote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross over the road you’ll see it). Inside you can choose from a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books and gifts. QB-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www. warsawtour.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. TOURIST INFORMATION Located in the arrivals hall of the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all the necessary guides and maps you might need including In Your Pockets. Qul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00. TOURIST INFORMATION Find this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and souvenirs.QB-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a, tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00. of history. During the post-Stalin years these neons were seen as symbols of economic success and the strive towards a more open and culturally relaxed society. The glowing signs, designed by some of Poland’s top architects and designers, advertised products, cinemas, dancehalls, restaurants and cocktail bars and also served as local landmarks. The post-communist years saw a scant disregard for anything connected to that era, many buildings were demolished and the beautiful neons were simply tossed into skips or left in states of disrepair to rot away. Luckily, Karwińska and Hill saw the signiﬁcance of these artefacts and have managed to save over 50 neons and around 500 letterforms from certain destruction. The museum is also home to a huge archive of documentation, blueprints, photographs and original plans relating to the history of these signs. Housed in the super cool Soho Factory complex, the museum is certainly a one

Neon Museum

Mat Fahrenholz

August - September 2014

Sightseeing SASKI PALACE

One piece of lost Warsaw that is set to rise again is the Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds of Saski Park (B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn family the building was purchased by King Augustus II and substantially enlarged and used by both him and his successor, Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth airing, amateur historians will delight in learning that Augustus II sired 12 children by different women, while his successor managed to match the number, only this time staying loyal to his wife in the process. Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged out most likely) the building fell into disuse before being rented out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the Prussians established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises, and conflicting evidence suggests that Chopin either lived there for a time, or that his father taught French in one of the outbuildings. Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Palace finally assumed its best known shape in 1925 when the Tomb of the Unknown soldier was added to the series of colonnades used to link the two wings together. Serving as the seat of the Polish General Staff after WWI it was here that the German Enigma Code was first cracked by local science boffins. WWII signalled the end of the Palace and it was flattened by retreating Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier surviving the blasts. But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city of Warsaw has decided to cover the 201 million złoty cost of rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have been awarded the tender to undertake the work and the façade, thanks to blueprints made available by the Central Military Archive, will look just like it did in 1939. It’s not known what will occupy the space, with ideas ranging from a Museum of Polish History to an institute dedicated to the thoughts of Pope John Paul II. Completion was originally set for 2010, though so far building work has not entirely gone to plan. Although sappers failed to find any undetonated devices, builders have since come across over 10,000 rare archaeological finds including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing August III’s monogram. The one problem being that no provision was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning that many of the treasures recovered have since corroded after being incorrectly stored. For the time being work appears to have stopped completely, with even the fences taken down - when it’ll resume is anyone’s guess, though we could be in for a bit of a wait.

82 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Sightseeing of a kind experience and well worth a visit for anyone interested in design history and Poland’s past. Remember to keep your eye out for some of the remaining old neons which are still ‘in-situ’ around Warsaw - for example the brilliant ‘Netball Player’ on Plac Konstytucji or the ‘Dancing’ sign on Nowy Świat.Qul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, tel. (+48) 516 60 88 81, www. neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Suggested donation 10/5zł. UN POLISH ARMY MUSEUM (MUZEUM WOJSKA POLSKIEGO)

The chronological history of the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language explanations mean you’ll need to hire an English-speaking guide to get the most out of the place. The room at the end is dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of 20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket launchers. Note that visitors can see the Transport Aircraft AN26 or the Jak-40 for a 3zł each.QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 629 52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 15/8zł, Sun free. Tours with audioguide 20/13zł. N UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART/CSW) (CENTRUM SZTUKI WSPÓŁCZESNEJ ZAMEK UJAZDOWSKI) Completed in a baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound the communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building with the intention of building a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as a military hospital in the years leading up to the war, it now has three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, warsaw.inyourpocket.com

the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a café. Due to the “Zielony Jazdów” project, until 14/09 the exhibitions are open for viewers Fri and Sat 12:00 - 22:00.QG-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. U WARSAW MUSEUM (MUZEUM WARSZAWY) One of our favourite museums, The Warsaw Museum has been offline for several issues now but is easing into a return after months of renovations, which will continue to take place over the next several years. What can you see so far? Not very much as the main floor is closed for overhaul. One aspect not to be missed, however, is the film “Warsaw Will Remember” in the museum’s cinema. The film addresses the war years from 1939-1945 and the rebuilding of the city. The film is shown on the hour Tue-Thu from 10:00-17:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-19:00 and lasts 20 minutes (in French, Italian German and Spanish by request). Film tickets are 10/7zł (and the entrance for the film is from Rynek Starego Miasta 42) while general museum admission is 10/7zl. Thursday, however, are free. QB-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, tel. (+48) 22 635 16 25, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. U

PLACES OF INTEREST INVISIBLE EXHIBITION (NIEWIDZIALNA WYSTAWA) Would you pay good money for an exhibition you can’t see? That’s the idea behind Niewidzialna Wystawa (“The Invisible Exhibition”), which takes visitors into the world of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours (which we recommend you book in advance to avoid waiting) are helmed by guides who know of what they speak: all are partially or completely blind themselves. Tours begin with several stations that help get you acclimated to the challenges blind people face daily. You’ll get to tap on a Braille typewriter, test out gadgets that help the sightless do tasks in the kitchen, and try to solve simple puzzles while wearing a blindfold. Once you’re suﬃciently awed by your inability to do even minor tasks the guide leads the group into the main portion of the exhibition: a pitch-black series of rooms that force you to rely on your other senses to get by (we’re not kidding about the darkness level; be prepared). You’ll visit an art gallery, a bar and take a walk ‘outside’ while the guides ask questions about what you’re encountering - you’ll be listening for the swoosh of cars before crossing the street, or feeling a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is. If you bring along change the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar. An eye-opening experience that will have you thinking heavily about what you take for granted.QA-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.niewidzialna.pl. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 24-28/19-25zł, family ticket 69zł. Tickets reserved online cost 3 zł less per ticket. N facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

PRESIDENTIAL PALACE If pre-war Warsaw was considered the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieśćie would have been its Champs Elysees, its importance recognized by the number of palaces, institutions, monuments and churches that line it. Of those none are more important than the Presidential Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern looking soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th century became famed for its banquets – the most extravagant being held to commemorate the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over two million złoty was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nation’s finest monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognized as Europe’s first – and only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowski’s brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its residents none were more eccentric than General Zajączek, a one legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair by a team of simpering servants. After 1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to the ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society, and in 1879 Jan Matejko’s epic painting The Battle of Grunwald was put on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Extensively remodelled throughout the course of history one of its biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 it was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. Amazingly it survived both the 1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years later, though that did little to stop the authorities employing Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw Pact – the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO – was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is exactly why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out, and square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who strays too close. Interestingly enough, however, is the fact that current president Bronisław Komorowski does not live there; instead he has chosen to reside at Belvedere Palace next to Łazienki Park. QC-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48. August - September 2014

Old Town

Photo Pho to byy Jac Jacek ek Kaddajj

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas with plenty of Olde World charm, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. Entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII and of Varsovians’ pride in their city. When US General Dwight Eisenhower visited Warsaw after the war he was moved to comment, “I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” Buried beneath twenty million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled a shattered shell; over half the population had been killed, and 85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had been hit with particular Nazi eﬃciency, and by the time the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre, a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Old Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable expense of Poland’s ‘recovered territories.’ Although now only half a century old, Warsaw’s historic quarter is an architectural miracle, and a stunning tribute to the city’s will to survive.

WHAT TO SEE Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (B2) under King Sigismund’s Column. There isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, and not a minute of the day when the steps to the statue aren’t besieged by dating couples, school kids and skateboarders. Erected in 1644 by Sigismund’s son, Władysław IV, the twenty-two metre column was designed by Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla, and the ﬁgure of Sigismund ranks as Poland’s second oldest monument - the oldest being the Neptune Fountain in Gdańsk. Local legend asserts that Sigis84 Warsaw In Your Pocket

mund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence that was first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and he was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby at the side of the Royal Castle. It’s hard to believe that at the end of 1944 all before you was just rubble, but that’s exactly what it was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecek (B-2) where black and white photographs illustrate the devastation. The Old Town’s subsequent inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is also remembered in some cobblestone pavers here. Resisting the draw of the market square for the time being, instead head down ul. Piwna (B-2) - aptly named ‘Beer Street’ after the 15th century breweries that once operated here - for a glimpse of St. Martin’s Church at ul. Piwna 9/11. Flattened during the war, the only fragment to survive was a half-burned figure of Jesus. During the period of Martial Law, Solidarity supporters would convene here to worship and hold secret meetings. As with the rest of the Old Town, the real beauty of ul. Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and don’t miss the portal at number 6. Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska (B-2), once home to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed ‘Piekarka,’ this is where witches and other ne’er do wells were burned at the stake, hung, or beheaded. Marking the end of Piekarska, just outside the old city walls, check out the sword waving figure of Jan Kiliński - a legendary Polish patriot and hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narwarsaw.inyourpocket.com

row street running at a 90 degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages. Directly behind the wall, and onto ul. Podwale (B-2), you’ll find one of Warsaw’s most poignant landmarks - The Monument to the Little Insurgent - depicting a young lad weighed down by a machine gun and over-sized helmet. The monument honours the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Follow Podwale along to the Barbakan (B-1). Crowning the set of defensive walls which once protected the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548. Today it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers and ‘artists’ selling their wares. During the summer months you can visit the interior, though it’s best avoided if you have an aversion to confined spaces. The moat around the area is another relatively recent addition. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th century and the walls were incorporated into the dense tangle of new townhouses. Fragments of these forgotten defences were unearthed in 1937 and a decade later, with Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore the ancient walls. At this point you’ll find your nose pointing straight down ul. Nowomiejska (B-1). Continue forward to reach the beautiful Old Town Square (Rynek, B-1/2). Measuring 90 by 73 metres this square is Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated burgher houses. During the 15th century the Old Town Square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today you’ll find a couple of water pumps dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaw’s best loved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaid’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. While the Old Town Square presents no shortage of ways to part tourists from their cash, one place that is worth popping into is U Fukiera at number 27. The culinary tradition here dates from 1810 when the Fukier family turned this place into Warsaw’s top winery. Today the restaurant is in the hands of the famed Gessler family, and their guest list reads as something of a Who’s Who of stage and screen. Close by is the Historical Museum of Warsaw (Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, B-1). Finally, conclude your epic walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia (B-2). Once a graveyard, this little square features a cracked cathedral bell (that promises good luck if you touch the top and circle it) as well as one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22 (Etgar Keret’s House at ul. Chłodna 22/ul. Żelazna 74 actually holds the claim for world’s most narrow). Close by note the covered walkway linking the Cathedral to the Royal Castle. This was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The King escaped unharmed, but the hapless hitman, Michał Piekarski, found himself skinned alive, stretched by four horses and then chopped into pieces with an axe! You yourself are now within horse-stretching distance of your starting point by Sigismund’s Column. Point your fatigued figure in the direction of Krakowskie Przedmieście and prepare yourself to take the path of Kings along The Royal Route. Cue fanfare! facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

ROYAL CASTLE

More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Maps on the wall reflect Poland’s greatest days, when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The apartments of Józef Poniatowski have recently been opened to the public, though unfortunately none of the accompany descriptions are in English. The rooms are still a worthwhile part of the tour, if for no other reason than to see the Prince’s surprisingly cerulean bedroom and grand collection of paintings. Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a ‘white lady.’ According to legend her appearance signals imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter Tadeusz Koścuiszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the walls it’s hard to resist the temptation to scratch some off - just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river to the Praga district instead. For those interested in the Castle’s reconstruction the basement exhibition “From Destruction to Reconstruction” details the building’s resurrection after World War II rendered the place a pile of rubble. Note that this exhibition is free, so those not willing to spring for a ticket for the entire tour can still visit this section of the Castle.QB-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamekkrolewski.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thur 10:00 - 20:00. Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 22/15zł, family ticket 14zł per person. Sun free. Poniatowski apartments 14/7zl, family ticket 6zl per person. Sun free. Guides in English 110zł, audioguides 17/12zł. YU August - September 2014

The best Baltic amber in Warsaw

The Royal Route Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Island, en route to Wilanów Palace in the district of the same name. Covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great range of Warsaw’s historic buildings, parks, churches and monuments, making a trek down the ‘path of the Kings’ a ‘must-do’ part of any visit to the city. The heart of the route, along Krakowskie Przedmieście and Nowy Świat, will also lead you past, or more likely into, a grand selection of hostelries, restaurants and shops. Granted, a few of the further out parts of the route may not be anything to write home about, but it really is worth making the eﬀort in order to visit the beautiful Wilanów Palace, gardens and parkland. We let you know what not to miss in our walking tour below.

KRAKOWSKIE PRZEDMIEŚCIE

Modern and traditional

jewellery

natural amber with

DE S I G N E R S

Q UA L I T Y

Silverline Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, Warsaw OPENING HOURS : t Sat-Su:

Mo-Fri 10-19

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Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets. It stretches from the Royal Castle (Pl. Zamkowy 4, B-2) in the Old Town until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. With the Royal Castle and Old Town covered extensively elsewhere in the guide (see Sightseeing), we begin our stroll from the sabre-rattling King Sigismund’s Column just outside the castle. This popular meeting point sees its steps visited by buskers, tourists and white-gowned brides in search of memorable snaps. From this point head to St. Anne’s Church (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, B-2), a neo-classical effort that survived the war but came within a whisker of collapse when work on the W-Z street tunnel in 1949 caused several landslides; it took a team of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations and stabilise the soil, but the real hero of the hour was Romauld Cebertowicz - a professor who invented a way of solidifying the soil via the use of electrical currents. The interior of St. Anne’s is fine, but the real reason for visiting is the viewing platform, which offers impressive views of the Old Town and a distant shot of the red and white National Stadium. A short stroll will take you to the Adam Mickiewicz monument (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5, B-2). This statue was erected in 1898 - the centenary of the birth of Poland’s bestloved bard. Unveiled at a time of Imperial Russian repression the very creation of his likeness was regarded as something of a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind Mr. Mickiewicz is a 1784 pink building recognisable for having a chunk missing from its facade, and the 17th century Carmelite Church next door (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 52/54, B-2) is one of the best examples of the classical style to be found in Poland. Stop for photos by the stone lions and stern looking guards outside the Presidential Palace (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, C-2). Construction on the palace began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, although he died before it was completed. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic families and in the 18th century it became the famed venue for lavish society banquets - none being more extravagant than the party held facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

to celebrate the coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789, when the astounding sum of over two million złoty was spent entertaining 4,000 guests. Some will say it was money well spent; Poniatowski proved to be one of Poland’s finest monarchs and the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very grounds, is recognised as Europe’s first. When Poland regained independence in 1918 the reconstructed building was commandeered to serve as home to the Polish Prime Minister and his Council of Ministers. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the communists and the opposition were held here, paving the way for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as the official home of the Polish President though current president Bronisław Komorowski has opted to reside at the Belvedere Palace (ul. Belwederska 56, G-5). The Prez obviously needs classy neighbours, so next door you’ll find the elegant and recently overhauled Bristol Hotel (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, C-2). A brass plaque boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name but a few. Across the street, the current building of the Ministry of Culture and Art (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15) is also home to its own historical factoid - it was here that Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at a ball held in his honour. Why all the young, fresh faced kids? Well, you’re in Warsaw University-land. The Uni’s main campus lies behind the grand gateway at ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28 (C-2). Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw U was established here in 1819. The uni had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the university continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning hack Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and poet Julian Tuwim.

King Sigismund’s Column

Photo by Stanisław Kłosin

August - September 2014

The Royal Route

Palace of Culture & Science the Russian governor in 1863. Infuriated Cossack troops reacted by launching a piano once tickled by Chopin out the window, though nowadays the drama is limited to dancing in the basement club or dining on the elegant ground ﬂoor.

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

Head across the street to visit the Church of the Holy Cross (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, C-3). This is the famed ﬁnal resting place of Fryderyk Chopin’s heart, which was sealed in an urn at his own request and placed behind a tablet featuring his likeness, becoming a place of pilgrimage for his legions of fans. Finish your Krakowskie Przedmieście wander with a visit to the Nicolaus Copernicus monument, located opposite the church, appropriately seated in front of the Polish Academy of Sciences (ul. Nowy Świat 72, C-3). The monument was unveiled in 1830 and has seen plenty of action, particularly during WWII when the Nazis added a bronze plaque suggesting the astronomer was actually German. In 1942 a brave boy scout removed the plaque, causing the Nazis to remove the monument and bomb several others as retribution. Fortunately Copernicus was recovered and restored following the war. The controversial plaque can now be seen in the Historical Museum of Warsaw (Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, B-1).QB-2, C-3.

NOWY ŚWIAT Nip across the ul. Świętokrzyska intersection and Krakowskie Przedmieście suddenly becomes the New World! The story of ul. Nowy Świat (New World Street) dates back to medieval times when it was traversed by Kings on their way between Warsaw and Kraków, with the first settlements appearing in the area during the 17th century. Levelled during WWII, the street found itself rebuilt in rather uniform neo-classical style, as returning it to its predominantly Art Nouveau pre-war style was simply unfeasible. Nowy Świat, along with its little off-shoot streets, has long been seen as one of THE places to be seen and is home to numerous shops, bars and eateries. Expect a myriad of modern and traditional restaurants and coffee shops, including the popular Bierhalle microbrewery which makes an ideal pitstop at ul. Nowy Świat 64 (C-3), before shoving off to snap a pic of the former home of cult writer and Anglophile Joseph Conrad at number 45. If it’s too early in the day for a hefty German style beer, drop into the renowned Café Blikle (ul. Nowy Świat 33, C-3), famous for once serving doughnuts to a young and sweet-toothed Charles de Gaulle. Just across the street you will find super trendy ul. Foksal (C-3) for more gastronomic and drinking opportunities; follow it to its end to see Zamoyski Palace (ul. Foksal 1/2/4), a neo-renaissance pearl designed by Marconi and the scene of a botched assassination attempt on 88 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Back onto Nowy Świat you should now be in sight of our city’s famous plastic palm tree which stands on the de Gaulle roundabout at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie and Nowy Świat. Created by artist Joanna Rajkowska, the palm links the fauna of the city of Jerusalem with its namesake avenue ‘Jerozolimskie’ in Warsaw. Before reaching the palm tree, however, one must stop off at an oasis, and there is no place better than the legendary rat-like maze of Pawilony (The Pavilions) located behind the gates at number 22. Klaps (ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, Pavilion 12a, C-4) is a can’t-miss experience if you like your décor to include a wall of plastic boobs and beer taps crowned with vibrators! Before crossing the busy roundabout keep your eyes peeled for a poignant Socialist Realist mural of a girl holding a pistol - one of the earliest tributes to the Warsaw Uprising. Once safely across de Gaulle roundabout, you will be greeted by a monument to the great General himself. Behind him stands the hulking edifice of the former Communist HQ at Nowy Świat 6 (C-4). Completed in 1948, rumours that it was secretly connected by a tunnel to the Palace of Culture appear unsubstantiated, but you have to love the irony that it briefly served as home to the stock exchange; today the building hosts numerous offices, a Ferrari dealership and Cuda na Kiju - one of Warsaw’s best real ale multi-tap bars. Scurry along this fairly uninspiring stretch of Nowy Swiat to Pl. Trzech Krzyży (C-4), home to the beautiful 19th century classical style St. Alexander’s Church (ul. Książęca 21, C-4). The surrounding area is home to some of Warsaw’s top boutiques, including the likes of Burberry, Zegna and Escada.QC-3/4.

FURTHER ON From Plac Trzech Krzyży (C-4), Warsaw’s ‘royal route’ continues down the Embassy-land of Aleje Ujazdowskie past the Ujazdowskie and Łazienki Parks (G-4), down ul. Belwederska (G-5), ul. Sobieskiego (H-6) and Aleja Wilanowska to ultimately end at Wilanów Palace - the 17th century private residence of King Jan III Sobieski. While a walking tour of the remaining 10km isn’t realistic, or especially rewarding, Łazienki and Wilanów are both required visits for getting a broader sense of Warsaw’s history and former glory as the grand capital of a vast and wealthy commonwealth stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. We detail both destinations extensively further on in our Sightseeing section, and though both could occupy the better part of a day on their own, you can also easily continue your tour from the bus stop at the southern end of Pl. Trzy Krzyży. To get to Łazienki Park, simply hop on bus numbers 116, 166 or 180 and get oﬀ two stops later at ‘Łazienki Królewskie.’ For Wilanów, take bus 116, 180 or E-2 and get oﬀ at ‘Wilanów’ 25mins later. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

Palace of Culture and Science

PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE (PAŁAC KULTURY I NAUKI) For all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome Warsaw, the four decades of communism have yet to be completely erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldn’t miss this hulking giant of a landmark if you tried. Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’ the 231 metre structure actually takes its inspiration from the capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, but, believe it or not, was specifically designed to include influences from all of Poland’s architectural styles. Stalin had sent a secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building and American construction methods, though the outbreak of WWII meant that it wasn’t until 1952 that his architects were able to commence putting their knowledge into practice. Lev Rudynev, the brains behind the equally monstrous Lomonosov University in Moscow, was put in charge of the design and set about making the building into one of the most notorious examples of Socialist Realist architecture in the world. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from the outside world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction, though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin never lived to see his pet project completed. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just party headquarters but also ‘the people’s castle’, with invitations to the annual New Year’s Eve Ball issued to the best workers in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an object of hatred and the palace was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony. Viewed from a distance – apparently it can be spotted from 30km away – the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalin’s orders architects travelled around Poland’s key cultural sights, from Wawel to Zamość, observing Polish architectural traditions, hence the numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs. Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons – Yuri Gagarin, Marie Skłodowska-Curie (a famous communist sympathiser), etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking parquet flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical socialist reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology – it’s easy to imagine Bond snooping around planting listening devices. The crowning glory of the ground floor is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent red theatre space apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding 2,880 its original use was to host party conferences, though through the years it became better known as a concert venue – hosting acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967 and the Chippendales in 2006. Given that the building boasts over 3,300 rooms there is not a lot to see, unless you’re into conference facilities, so visitors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th floor. To get there you’ll need to buy a ticket, after which you’ll be shepherded into an old-style lift complete with a lovely lift attendant who has probably been doing the job since the building opened.QB-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission for the viewing level is 18/12zł. Group ticket for more than 10 people 10zł per person. YN MUSEUM OF TECHNOLOGY (MUZEUM TECHNIKI) A vast collection dedicated to the history of everything technological inside the equally enormous Palace of Culture & Science, this museum is only missing a map. Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody with a sadistic sense of humour, the scores of rooms are scattered willy nilly and organised with what appears to be a contemptuous disregard for reason and logic. Highlights include a cavalcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes, a room packed with 19th century musical boxes, historical cars like a 1936 Lux-Sport limousine chassis and a small exhibition celebrating space exploration that could do with some serious updating. Decorated with lace curtains and staffed by an army of sinister-looking old ladies, this museum guarantees that you won’t learn a thing no matter how hard you try, but it’s a strangely rewarding experience that really has to be seen to be believed.QB-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47, www.mtip.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 14/8zł. Family ticket (up to 5 people) 30zł. Guided tours in English - additional 50zł per group. August - September 2014

Praga

Praga GETTING TO PRAGA By Public Transport: From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears as you disembark). If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well.

Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms being tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern district of Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and they’re all fairly apt. Praga has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors thanks to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, but a revival of sorts now makes this section of town worthy of emphasising - especially if you prefer to see the city’s artsy underbelly and get away from the welltrodden tourist path in Old Town. The area is still at least five years away from being hipster-soaked Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but that’s exactly why now is the time to go: a visit will mean you can say you saw the evolution in progress. In practice and geographically Praga has always been set apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence (at least on paper). Praga wasn’t given much time to enjoy its new status as part of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794, which saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Following the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned the entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living there. During World War II Praga wasn’t quite as dev-

By taxi: You can also take a taxi which should cost around 20-30zł and should take you from the centre area to Ząbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your journey may be longer during rush hours. astated as Warsaw proper (which isn’t really saying much if you’ve seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again, arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula, famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the Warsaw Uprising. Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool, especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impressive beer selection. AGNIESZKA OSIECKA MONUMENT Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles Manson’s family of weirdos in what would turn out to be one of the crimes of the century. The statue is located in Praga Południe, a more modern section of Praga (note the surrounding embassies) than Stara Praga. To round out your visit check out Osiecka’s favourite café, Maska, which stands around the corner from her monument.QH-2, ul. Francuska (corner of ul. Obrońców). BEARS Strangely enough, bears have been living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over 400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos, safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into the enclosure. The three current well-rested residents are called Tatra, Mała and Sabina.QC-1, Praski Park (from al. Solidarności), tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41.

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BUILDINGS Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bullet-scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul. Targowa 50/52. Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish Synagogue and bears a Hebrew inscription dating from 1934. Note that at press time the buildings were covered with a protective sheet due to impending renovations. KOŚCIUSZKOWCÓW MONUMENT (POMNIK KOŚCIUSZKOWCÓW) A formidable monument erected in 1985 to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted to cross the Wisła river several times without success, in a bid to support the 1944 Uprising.QG-1, ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie, Near Port Praski. ORTHODOX CHURCH OF ST. MARY MAGDALENE Constructed between 1867 and 1869 to a design by Mikołaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalene’s was originally built for the large congregation of Russians living around Jagiellońska as well as people arriving from the East at the nearby Wileńska train station. Now belonging to the independent Polish Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this stunning, five-domed building features a breathtaking golden interior and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in the 1920s, it’s easily the best-smelling church in Praga thanks to the heavy burning of rich incense.QG-1, Al. Solidarności 52, tel. (+48) 22 619 84 67. Open 11:00 - 15:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00; Sat open during mass only. RÓŻYCKI BAZAAR Once regarded as Warsaw’s premier bazaar, the rambling Bazar Różyckiego has seen its popularity wane since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments, but nowadays the historic market (it began in 1901) is a ghostly image of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing look into working class Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire polyester wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and chintzy mother-of-the-bride gowns.QH-1, ul. Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarrozyckiego.pl. Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

TOURIST INFORMATION PRAGA TOURIST INFORMATION (PRASKA INFORMACJA TURYSTYCZNA) Info on the local area and guided tours in English and Polish, as well as an application for smartphones that oﬀers a tour of Praga in English.QH-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. (+48) 22 670 01 56, www.totu.travel.pl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

STS. MICHAEL & FLORIAN CATHEDRAL This giant gothic cathedral viewable from across the Vistula in Warsaw proper was built in reaction to the building of an Orthodox Church and a number of other structures on the Tsar’s orders in the latter half of the 19th century. A certain Pole by the name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit back with the construction of a huge new Michał Dżurak/Wikipedia/CC Catholic church, which was BY-SA 3.0 consecrated in 1901. Unsurprisingly this vast Gothic beast was blown to pieces by the Germans in September 1944 and is now almost exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruction between 1947 and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped 75-metre steeples, the church, which includes a photograph of what remained of it after the Nazis dynamited it on the left wall as you enter, has a rather plain interior though the vaulted ceilings are well worth a look at if you’re in the area.QG-1, ul. Floriańska 3, tel. (+48) 22 619 09 60, www.katedra-floriana.home.pl/ cms/. Open by prior arrangement. ZĄBKOWSKA Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated than ulica Ząbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialized to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame houses, Ząbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard, with Ząbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and galleries opened. For some the very name Ząbkowska is synonymous with lively bars filled with student revolutionaries. ZOO If the bears piqued your interest in animals then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was opened in 1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More than 5,000 species call it home and that includes all the biggies you’d expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to name a few. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949.QC-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat,Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł. Children under 3 years free. August - September 2014

Copernicus Science Centre

Copernicus Science Centre GETTING IN

Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre

While the world’s attention was drawn towards the highly visible, round-the-clock construction of Warsaw’s amazing new stadium on the right bank of the Wisła, work was also being carried out across the water on a building that has since outshined the stadium now that the Euro 2012 hoopla has died down. Built on time and on budget (well, just about), the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) - which stands almost directly opposite the stadium along the river - has established itself as one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions.

GETTING THERE The centre can be found in the shadow of the Świętokrzyski Bridge on the banks of the Wisła River. A journey to the CSC from the centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes. Buses 105, 118 and 127 will drop you at the Biblioteka Uniwersytecka stop, requiring a short walk around the corner to the unmissable building. Buses 102 and 162 will drop you at the Pomnik Syreny stop with the CSC clearly in sight. Alternatively visit the ‘About us’ section of the English language website www.kopernik.org.pl, where you can get directions by car, by bus, or by foot by typing in your address.

INTRODUCTION A rare example of European Union funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is many things, not least (in the words of Poland’s Education Minister shortly before the opening) an attempt to restate the case for science and research in what can still be an intensely and

Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre

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COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE (CENTRUM NAUKI KOPERNIK) QG-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. From September open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Note that the Planetarium has different opening hours. Open 09:30 - 21:00; Fri, Sat 08:30 - 21:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 25/16zł, family ticket 66zł. (2adults+2children). Use of the labs, which are only available to individuals on the weekends, costs an additional 9zł. Note that you must buy a separate ticket for the Planetarium. Admission 18-23zł/13-18zł, family ticket 49-64zł. Y deeply religious country. In that sense, giving t he centre the name of the man who did so much to end the church’s monopoly of education in the first place is little short of a masterstroke. Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath of the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in April 2010 the president’s political party, PiS (Law & Justice), lobbied heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The request was politely, respectfully, refused. Given the stunning, futuristic sight - all glass and steel - that greets visitors at the €93 million (half of which came from the EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC today, it’s a little ironic that the building’s origins are slightly more humble. The idea of creating the centre first took shape at the informal Science Picnics - outdoor science, culture and art events aimed at the general public that have been held in Warsaw’s Rynek Nowego Miasta since 1997. The idea of the picnics (which were organised by Polskie Radio, strangely enough) was to bring popular science to the masses through hands-on experiments. Each year, as the numbers of scientists, universities, schools and members of the general public taking part grew, it became clear that there was an expanding interest in science in Warsaw, while the large numbers of foreign visitors who came to the events suggested that there was an untapped market in the region for hands-on scientific learning. Construction of the CSC was the natural next step, though it took a number of years to secure the site and funding. Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is no surprise that the museum (if we can call it that) was opened in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually fashion. The opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang), directed by Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a little underwhelming (and at certain points quite bizarre), while visitors to the centre in the first couple of weeks were greeted by an annoyingly large number of ‘this exhibit is temporarily out of order’ signs. Yet throughout 2011 as the CSC rolled out sections of the museum to the public it quickly became clear that this is unquestionably the very best science centre in Europe, and today visitors can enjoy a fully completed attraction. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

VISITING TODAY Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building, you will be met by the centre’s very own Robothespian. A fully programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian was developed in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall. He speaks, interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors can prompt him to make a number of sounds, speech and movements by the adjacent control panel. This will keep the kids busy while you queue at the central ticket desk where you will be given a set of credit card-style entrance passes. You should keep hold of these as not only do they allow you to enter and exit the building throughout the day, but they will also become your ID card as you move through the exhibitions, many of which allow you to record your results (which are stored and then emailed to you afterwards). Passing through the barriers, the first display you come to is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and forwards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a bell as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating. Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First of all, register your card with your name and email address at one of the terminals so that you will be identified as you progress through the CSC. You currently have over 350 experiments to visit, spread over two floors and six areas:

Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre

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Roots of Civilisation, Bzzz! (for preschool children) and RE:generation (for young adults) on the ground floor, and Humans and the Environment, LightZone and On the Move located upstairs. Each area demonstrates a range of phenomenon by way of experiments, button pressing, quizzes and in some cases physical exertion with the aim of helping you to discover the secrets of the world around us. Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where visitors over 14 can experiment with psychology, sociology, economics or biotechnology through 80 multimedia exhibits – we swear we’ve never seen teens more effusive and excited as they tried to identify a monkey’s emotions, or finish lyrics to popular songs. There’s also four interactive labs dealing with chemistry, biology, physics and robotics that offer supervised experiments for kids over 13 (instructions are in Polish however) and an outdoor Discovery Park filled with installations lining the Wisła. It’s easy to declare that the centre is well-worth a few hours of your time and will impress you with its design and range of experiments. Factor in the main floor cafeteria and the packed Science Store (potentially the best spot for children’s gifts in Warsaw) and it’s a one-stop day of fun. The staff is keen, very helpful and English-speaking; we saw many interacting happily with kids and helpfully controlling the chaos. If there is one gripe we have it would concern the Robotics show, which can be found inside the Roots of Civilisation section. The 20-minute show we saw told an embarrassingly bad story about a robot that wants to become human in order to marry a princess, and used language that seemed slightly out of reach for young children. The various accents can also be baffling (one robot sounds like a drunken Sean Connery) and the robots themselves are like stiff mannequins that move back and forth on a small track. Completely skippable. Considering the size and scope of this operation, one minor flaw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat unseen in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been very hard to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor attraction being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet here it is, which ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself about how the impossible can become possible. August - September 2014

Łazienki

Łazienki up games of cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up to in parks in the western world, Łazienki takes a very stern ‘look but don’t touch’ attitude when it comes to its lawns. If you don’t believe us, try sitting on a Łazienki lawn and see what happens. That said, the park has recently added two zones where you’re allowed to have a picnic. Progress!QG-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open from dawn till dusk. MUSEUM OF HUNTING AND HORSEMANSHIP (MUZEUM ŁOWIECTWA I JEŹDZIECTWA) North of the Palace on the Island, the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship is worth a quick visit.QH-4, ul. Szwoleżerów 9, tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum. warszawa.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 3-8/2-5zł. Thu free.

Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been to the city’s lung, the incomparable Łazienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glorious, 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels in Poland’s crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though, for so big is Łazienki that it never gives the impression of being crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere. BELVEDERE PALACE (BELWEDER) Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski and Lech Kaczyński opting to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) this is once again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president (now Bronisław Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits. For the best views of the palace and some outstanding photo opportunities you should look at it from Al. Ujazdowskie: it is a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns.QG-5, ul. Belwederska 56. CHOPIN MONUMENT & TEMPLE OF SIBYL (POMNIK CHOPINA I ŚWIĄTYNIA DIANY) On entering the park proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument, sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It depicts Chopin sitting right here in Łazienki, next to a willow tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII, and the one we admire today went 94 Warsaw In Your Pocket

up in 1958. During the summer impressive concerts take place around the statue almost every Sunday at 12:00 and 16:00 (the last concert of the season is on September 28). Almost hidden in the trees a few metres from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed to the public), an 1820s replica Greek Temple built entirely of wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings here such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple and the Water Tower. None are currently open to the public.QG-4. ŁAZIENKI PARK (PARK ŁAZIENKOWSKI) The name Łazienki means baths and is derived from the park’s centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on the Island. The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the adjacent Ujazdów Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence (and taking the name Palace on the Island). It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz. Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and theatres, Łazienki oﬀers much to see and to make the best of it you should plan to spend a full day here. One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and the cricket set: Łazienki, for all its charms, is further evidence of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick warsaw.inyourpocket.com

MYŚLEWICKI PALACE (PAŁAC MYŚLEWICKI) Make sure you have time too for a guided tour of the magniﬁcent, semi-circular and recently restored Myślewicki Palace. The residence of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski, the palace is very much ‘as was’ complete with original murals, furniture and art.QH-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 6/4zł. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70zł per group. Y

GETTING TO ŁAZIENKI Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos. 116, 166 and 180. From the city centre however perhaps the easiest way of reaching Łazienki is to take a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100 metres along Bagatela to the park’s southern entrance, in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations. There is also a very good Łazienki complex map (again, in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees, at the vast artificial lake in the park’s centre, straddled by the magnificent Palace on the Island. In doing so however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try to circumnavigate the park instead. While you can buy tickets for each Łazienki attraction individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or two-days combined ticket which offers single-access to a chunk of the attractions (Ujazdowski Castle, The Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship and the Botanical Garden are not among them). A one-day ticket is 30/20zł, two-day tickets 35/25zł. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

PALACE ON THE ISLAND (PAŁAC NA WYSPIE) The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by Tylman Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by Stanisław August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an artificial island that divides the lake into two parts, and is connected to the surrounding park by two colonnaded bridges. The façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade that bears statues of mythological figures. The northern façade is relieved by a striking central portico, while the southern façade’s deep central recess lies behind a screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all of the palace can be visited (though currently the first floor is off limits), including the main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisław Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted the monarch himself as the biblical king. Many of the king’s personal rooms are also open to the public, set in their original context. To get the best out of the palace we recommend taking one of the excellent guided tours (call ahead to book such a tour).QG-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienkikrolewskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/15zł and comes with headphones. Free on Thurs and daily from 17:0018:00; Fri, Sat 19:00 - 20:00. Guides 100zł per group up to 25 people. To arrange guide call (+48) 22 506 01 70. Y

August - September 2014

Łazienki

THEATRE ON THE ISLAND (AMFITEATR) Crossing the tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads along the embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also known as the Theatre on the Island. The theatre hosts productions throughout the summer, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish these will hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There are exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance performances sometimes get put on here). It is enough just to admire the setting before heading for one of the kitsch (one features an enormous swan) but irresistible gondolas that ferry up and down the lake all summer until the end of October. A short trip costs 8/6zł per person, and trips depart throughout the day - you may have to wait for the boat to fill up before the gondolier sets off however.QG-4. UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART/CSW) (CENTRUM SZTUKI WSPÓŁCZESNEJ ZAMEK UJAZDOWSKI) A castle of some description has been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was completed in a baroque style in 1730 for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became the Palace on the Island and gave Łazienki park its name). Ujazdowski survived two centuries before being gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried to blow it to pieces, as they did a number

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Wilanów of Łazienki’s ﬁnest buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis couldn’t do the communists could, and though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound in the 1950s Poland’s communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building and place a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed however, and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today plays host to three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art inside; ﬁnd a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists here. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a café, which has a terrace whose views over the park, Warsaw and what appears to be half of Poland are jaw dropping. Due to the “Zielony Jazdów” project, till 14/09 the exhibitions are open for viewers Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.QG-4, ul. Jazdów 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. U

WHITE HOUSE & ORANGERY (BIAŁY DOM I STARA POMARAŃCZARNIA) Not quite as grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive is the little White House a gorgeous summer house built in 1774 for the king’s sisters which displays a ﬁne collection of period furniture and decorations. It is open for visitors from April 15 and the price of admission is 6/4zł. A few steps away is the impressive Old Orangery, one of very few surviving court theatres in the world. It dates from 1774 and is still used today to host chamber concerts, as well as being a popular wedding venue for Warsaw’s wealthy. Part of the building houses a museum of sculpture. From here head back past the White House, resist the temptation to head straight for the Palace on the Island and instead head south, towards the New Orangery. Built in cast iron and glass it was designed by Józef Orłowski and opened in 1861. It is home to the upmarket Belvedere restaurant.QG-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Orangery admission 10/5zł. Thu free. Guided tours in English 70zł per group. Y warsaw.inyourpocket.com

manor house was built in 1680, expanding in two stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is within the central part of the palace where you will see the living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen consort, Marie (or Marysieńka as she was aﬀectionately called by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the original part of the palace.

Photo by W. Holnicki

It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history stretches no further back than the communist post-war era and that of WWII when the city was eﬀectively wiped from the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand a small part of this city’s and country’s history. The nation’s capital has been in Warsaw since the late 16th century and at one time was the centre of the burgeoning Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, a union which lasted over 200 years and whose territory at once stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea (incorporating much of modern day Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States). With so much of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experience what this must have been like more than at Wilanow’s palace and gardens. The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many ﬁtting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century Palace which can be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanów, 10 kilometres south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to soak up the capital’s lavish culture and wish to understand a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanów is more than just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures.The sprawling 45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing boat on the Palace’s lake. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here.

HISTORY Wilanów gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which Wilanów Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th century as Milanów, the then tiny village changed hands several times before being bought in the 17th century by the family of Stanisław Leszczyński. Leszczyński began building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanów was bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country retreat away from Warsaw, and he ordered a new Palace to be built on the site. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the name was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today. A brick facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

After Jan III Sobieski’s death in 1696, his widow returned to France and the palace through their sons became the property of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop the palace most notably the two wings which were built in the years 1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent owners, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace in memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal residence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became the property of a succession of the most important Polish families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis and Branickis and each left their mark as they expanded and developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century, at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist because of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his collection of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words ‘Cunctis patet ingressus’ on the palace ﬂoor signifying that the palace and its collection were ‘open to all’.

GETTING TO WILANÓW The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The city’s metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking a bus from outside of the station. BY BUS From Old Town: From (B-2) Pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180. Journey takes about 35 minutes. From Pl. Trzech Krzyży: From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży take buses 116, 180 or E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops can be found at the southern end of the square on Al. Ujazdowskie. From the centre: From (B-4) outside the Cepelia store on Marszałkowska take bus 519. From Warszawa Centralna train station: Take bus 519 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A4) ul. Chałubińskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates. August - September 2014

Wilanów THE WILANÓW PALACE MUSEUM

Photo by W. Holnicki

THE WILANÓW PALACE MUSEUM (MUZEUM PAŁACU KRÓLA JANA III W WILANOWIE) The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the Palace’s interior, comes in two parts. Having bought your ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing on the right and descend the stairs. Heading through a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th century. Wander through room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful including some fascinating Polish coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits are your thing you will find this very interesting although the lack of description and in some cases even the name of the people portrayed is rather frustrating. The tour leads you around the top of the house and then downstairs once more where you will find yourself in the residence of the palace. Featuring suits of armour, Etruscan vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered during restoration work after the war, residential rooms, an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass grandfather clock and even a private chapel there is a lot to admire. The central part of the lower floor is the most impressive. It is here that you will find the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. It is quite easy to spend a couple of hours wandering around the palace but be warned that it tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and tourists at the weekends so there’s not really a best time to visit. The Palace is open 09:30-16:00, Sun 10:30 - 16:00, Tue closed. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.Qul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Open 09:30 16:00, Mon 09:30 - 20:00; Wed, Sat 09:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 18:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zł, Sun free, but you must obtain an obligatory ticket for 0zł (we’re unfortunately not kidding). Audioguide (available in English, French, German, Italian, Russian and Spanish) 12zł. YU 98 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Wilanów The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and survived the war virtually intact although its collections were seriously looted. Conﬁscated by Poland’s post-war Communist government, Wilanów became part of the National Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during the 1950s and early 1960s, opening its doors to the public again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty revitalisation program which is overseeing conservation work in the royal apartments and archaeological research of the area. The gardens have also recently been restored to the splendour they enjoyed during Jan III Sobieski’s time. LAKE & ISLAND There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace, where seasonal gondolas complete with gondoliers and rowing boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water that will begin again in May (weather permitting). A trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the Park’s island reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and who gave his life at Wilanów ﬁghting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809. PARK & GARDENS The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park grew over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The Park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Professor Gerard Ciołek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese landscape park. The nearby Orangery and its garden serves as a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during the summer season. The park near the Orangery, East, North and Rose gardens and their asso-

Photo by W. Holnicki

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ciated architecture were recently the subject of a major revitalisation program and during work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological digs discovered several artefacts, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. Now the gardens have been restored to their appearance during the time of King Jan III Sobieski.QOpen from 09:00 till dusk. Admission 5/3zł, Thu free. Note that an obligatory 0zł ticket is still required on Thursdays. Really. Y POSTER MUSEUM (MUZEUM PLAKATU) Housed inside the Palace’s former indoor riding area, the Poster Museum features two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the world. At over 55,000 pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection to be found anywhere. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters rather than their documentary value and plays host to a cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As a contrast to the historic palace and collection of paintings next door, this makes for interesting additional place to visit while in Wilanów.Qul. S. K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 12:00 - 16:00; Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/7zł, Mon free. ST. ANNE’S CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. ANNY) A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard in the 16th century and it wasn’t replaced with a brick one until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new church was called St. Anne’s and was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki. Czartoryski’s grand-daughter, Aleksandra Lubormirska Potocka, decorated the church with art in the period 17991831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary in the main altar. Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extend the church to a design by Henri Marconi. The church gets a Neo-Renaissance look and the marvellous dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the church building you will ﬁnd terracotta shrines marking the fourteen Stations of the Cross while within the church, in the crypt under the chapel, are the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suﬀered damage during both world wars and was even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built Third Millenium Tower. The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest Bogusław Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre of the city as a national Historic Memorial.Qul. Kolegiacka 1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

JAN III SOBIESKI Jan Sobieski was born in Olesko near Lwow (now Ukrainian Lviv) in 1629. His father was a Polish-Lithuanian nobleman who ensured young Jan and his brother received a first class education and they both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey (as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French, German and Italian and during this time met major European political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the value of diplomacy as well as military might. Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered 14 children with (of whom 8 survived). Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where he led a Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655-1660) among others. In 1666 he sided with the king Michał Korybut Wiśniowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician and a canny political knack that would result in him being elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674. Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50 years of continuous war and set about stabilising the country’s borders through treaties and strategic battles. It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he is well remembered today. Sobieski’s greatest moment, however, was to come in 1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12 September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace. The Turks were to name Sobieski ‘The Lion of Lechistan’ (Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum (Sobieski’s Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski. August - September 2014

Jewish Warsaw

Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej

At the time Hitler chose to expand Germany’s territories under the odious excuse of providing ‘living space’ for the German people, Warsaw’s Jewish population numbered 350,000 and growing. Neither pogroms nor the occasional boycott of Jewish businesses deterred Jews from settling in the Polish capital and only New York could boast a larger Jewish community. Yet within six years Warsaw’s thriving Jewish scene was all but wiped from the map, with over 90 percent perishing either in the Ghetto or the gas chambers of Treblinka. Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare Poland was seen as a relative safe haven, and it drew settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland, a contribution that would eventually be extinguished by the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis. When Warsaw fell following a brief yet brutal siege the city’s ancient Jewish population was damned to destruction. By 1940 Jews were forcibly penned into an area that already housed most of the Jewish population. On March 27, 1940, the Judenrat, a Jewish council answerable to the Nazi’s whims, was ordered to build a wall around the ghetto and a resettlement deadline of October 15 was handed to the city’s Jews. Failure to move into the assigned area was punishable by death. Spanning 18 kilometres and enclosing 73 of Warsaw’s 1,800 streets, the area was carved into a ‘small’ and ‘large’ ghetto, the two linked by a wooden bridge standing over ul. Chłodna (E-2). Today an installation titled ‘Footbridge of Memory’ stands at this spot, with optical fibres illuminating the former handrails over the street at night. 100 Warsaw In Your Pocket

From the beginning conditions in the city were harsh; recovered Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted a food allowance totaling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and other groups deemed ‘sub-human’ were expected to survive on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported by a smuggling network ran rife, with some 80 percent of the food in the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was not enough and as the noose tightened starvation became the principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way, their bodies often left to rot in the streets. Of the 800 ghettos scattered around the Third Reich Warsaw was the largest and also the deadliest. At its zenith approximately 380,000 residents found themselves squashed into the ghetto, with an average of eight people to a room. Yet amid this sea of suffering a remarkable social scene flourished, as proved by the meticulous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringelblum. Although murdered by the Nazis in 1944, Ringelblum, an intellectual and social activist, kept volumes of notes documenting the day-today life of ghetto inhabitants. It is from his painstaking notes we learn of the soup kitchens and charities that existed, of the musical concerts and cabarets and the fifty or so underground newspapers that circulated amongst the masses. The illusion of a self-contained, cruel, but surviving parallel world was shattered in 1942 when the Wansee Conference rubber-stamped plans for the ‘final solution to the Jewish question’ and the first deportations to death camps began in July. Over the next few weeks around 265,000 Jews were harried to a waiting area known as Umschlagplatz, from which they were loaded into cattle wagons destined for the Treblinka gas chambers. A year later a new action to thin the ghetto was launched, and by April 1943 a final push to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto began. For too long the Jews had been limited to passive resistance, but now, with rumours circulating about death camps, a band of ill-equipped insurgents faced up to the full weight of the Nazi military machine. Led by Mordechaj Anielewicz, the Jewish Fighting Organization (ŻOB) launched the Ghetto Uprising on April 19, 1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters continued their dogged resistance, but faced with heavy artillery and even Stuka Dive Bombers it was a doomed struggle. Vicious street-to-street, houseto-house battles ensued, with insurgents often burnt out

Collection of Shalom Foundation by Gołda Tencer - Szurmiej

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of their boltholes by flamethrowers and gas. On May 8 German forces surrounded the principal command post of the rebels on ul. Miła 18 and rather than face capture Anielewicz and his cabal opted for mass suicide. By May 16 the Uprising was over, with German commander Jurgen Stroop announcing, “The former Jewish quarter of Warsaw is no longer in existence.” With the fighting over the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and its inmates either sent to Treblinka or assigned to Gęsiówka (ul. Gęsia), a small concentration camp. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side. Today Warsaw’s Jewish population is estimated to stand only at around 2,000 and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the city’s hollowed out Jewish culture.

HEROES IN HORROR Sometimes it takes tragedy to create heroes. This is never truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was common in pre-war Poland (in fact so clear was this divide that the inter-war years saw seated segregation in such grand institutions as the local university) and under Nazi occupation collaboration was commonplace - denouncing Jews and revealing hiding places brought considerable ﬁnancial reward. Worse still, there were several instances of Poles actively taking part in pogroms and ‘Jew hunts,’ the most notorious occurring in the town of Jedwabne in 1941. It was here on the 10th of July that a mob of Poles rounded up nearly 400 Jews and marched them to a barn which was subsequently torched. It’s a shameful episode in Polish history, and one immortalised in Jan Gross’s book Neighbours. Nevertheless, such events should be oﬀset by stories of those who risked life and limb to help the persecuted. Poland was at the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for sheltering Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied territories, and ruthlessly enforced. Even so, it is estimated that over three million Poles actively helped Jews to survive and Yad Vashem has recognised over 6,000 Poles as being ‘Righteous Among Nations’ - more than in any other country. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

In Rozwadow Dr. Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate of Warsaw University, is credited with saving approximately 8,000 Jews after putting his medical knowledge to use. Having injected the town’s Jews with a benign form of typhus he then informed the Nazis that an epidemic was at large. Terrified that it would spread, the Nazis quarantined the town and left it to its own devices. Known as ‘the Polish Schindler,’ Lazowski saved 12 ghetto communities in this crafty manner. “I was not able to fight with a gun or a sword,” Lazowski said. “But I was able to find a way to scare the Germans.” In Kraków a gentile pharmacist named Tadeusz Pankiewicz was given special permission to remain in the ghetto and exploited this to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and vaccines were distributed for free, and his pharmacy - now a museum - came to double as a centre of underground activity. Regarded as a hero, Pankiewicz’s role in the Holocaust is remembered in Thomas Kenneally’s epic Schindler’s Ark. Another doctor, Irena Sendler, is credited with rescuing over 2,500 Jews from the Warsaw ghetto. Born in 1910, Sendler had a long history of sympathising with the plight of the Jews and was suspended for three years from Warsaw University after voicing her vociferous opposition to segregated benches and was active in the underground the moment the war broke out. Aided by her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to help Jewish families, and later headed the children’s section of Zegota - a secret organisation that was a ‘Council to Aid Jews.’ Using the fierce-looking court building on Solidarnosci as her bridge from the ghetto to freedom she smuggled countless children inside parcels and boxes. The children were then sent to live in convents and rectories, but not before she recorded their identities in a glass jar she kept buried at home. Her actions aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and in 1943 she was arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A bribe from Zegota saved her life, but nonetheless she was left unconscious in a forest, with both her arms and legs broken. She was officially declared dead by the Germans, and spent the rest of the war in hiding. But even peace brought no respite; she was persecuted by the communist authorities on account of her wartime relations with the exiled government, and faced constant harassment. In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising her for courage, and later that year she was awarded the Order of the White Eagle - Poland’s highest civilian decoration. She died in 2008, though even now remains a target of hate for some; in July 2010 her grave was vandalised with the words ‘Jews Out.’ August - September 2014

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Jewish Warsaw Finally, Jan Karski is remembered in the history books as the man who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Łódź in 1914, Karski’s photographic memory and fluent command of foreign languages caught the attention of the Polish diplomatic services, landing him prestigious posts abroad. With Europe gearing up for war Karski joined the horse artillery, with his unit captured by the Red Army. Karski avoided death in the forests of Katyń when he escaped from a train transporting him to a POW camp and headed to Warsaw to join the Polish underground. Realising the value of his remarkable memory his superiors employed Karski as a courier, a perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in order to swap information with allies. One such foray saw him captured by the Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian Tatra Mountains. He slit his wrists following an intense bout of torture, and was locked in a closely guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz. Determined not to lose their star courier a crack team of Polish troops broke him out and Karski resumed his duties. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake a daring mission to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski - Prime Minister of Poland’s government-in-exile - in London, the purpose being to reveal the extent of German atrocities in occupied Poland. To gather information he was smuggled into the Warsaw ghetto and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful that Karski later found himself questioning his own memory and decided a second visit was in order to convince him that what he had seen was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he infiltrated a transit camp in Izbica and witnessed random brutalities as well as cattle wagon transports leading Jews to the gas chambers. He successfully made it to England and was granted an audience with foreign secretary Antony Eden as well as Sikorski and the leader of the Jewish Bun. Maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears. In the following decades his attempt to stop the Holocaust was allowed to gather dust, and only came to public attention with the release of the 1978 epic film Shoah. He died in 2000, eight years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a Holocaust survivor, committed suicide.

WHAT TO SEE JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE (ŻYDOWSKI INSTYTUT HISTORYCZNY IM. EMANUELA RINGELBLUMA) A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and culture of the Polish Jews. This amazing building houses permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the annihilation during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its users to ﬁnd out about Jewish life in any part of the country. They are several temporary exhibits on the Warsaw Ghetto including a documentary in 4 languages. Essential visiting. QB-2, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi. pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5zł. 102 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Chopin A FOOTBRIDGE OF MEMORY (KŁADKA PAMIĘCI) One of the most recognisable images of the Warsaw Ghetto is that of the footbridge constructed over ul. Chłodna to connect the large and small ghettos. To commemorate that spot is one of Warsaw’s newest memorials: a pair of metal poles connected via optical fibers which, after the sun sets, project the shape of the footbridge over the road via light. Designed by Tomasz Tusch-Lec and installed in September 2011, the memorial also has viewing windows inside the poles where visitors can flip through images of life in the Warsaw Ghetto.QD-2, Intersection of ul. Chłodna and ul. Żelazna. MONUMENT TO THE GHETTO HEROES (POMNIK BOHATERÓW GETTA) Designed by Natan Rappaport, the monument pays tribute to the heroes of the Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found between (E-1) ul. Anielewicza, Zamenhofa, Lewartowskiego and Karmelicka it is here that the heaviest ﬁghting took place. In an ironic quirk, the stone cladding on the monument was originally ordered from Sweden by Hitler for a victory arch.QA-1, ul. Zamenhofa. NOŻYK SYNAGOGUE (SYNAGOGA NOŻYKÓW) Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983. Now open for worship.QE-3, ul. Twarda 6, tel. (+48) 22 620 43 24, www.warszawa.jewish.org. pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 20:00. Closed Sat. No visiting during services. Groups of more than ten should reserve in advance. Admission 6zł. N OKOPOWA STREET JEWISH CEMETERY (CMENTARZ ŻYDOWSKI) A beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto. QD-1, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www. beisolam.jewish.org.pl. Open from 10:00 till dusk, Fri 09:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 8zł. TRACES OF THE GHETTO Following the Ghetto Uprising the whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative plaque. Somewhat impressively, the local government have decided to honour Warsaw’s Holocaust history by introducing a ‘ghetto trail’. Developed with the help of the Jewish Historical Institute the route has seen the boundary of the former Ghetto outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance of 21 dual language information boards positioned in places of particular interest. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

2010 saw the country toast Chopin with champagne; Poland’s greatest composer, and Warsaw’s favourite son, a man who has lent his name to everything from vodka to airports (and even an asteroid). For 2010 marked the 200th anniversary of Fryderyk Chopin’s birth and saw the city celebrate his life with amongst other things the opening of a fabulous new museum.

CHOPIN - LIFE & TIMES And what a life it was. Of course, in the spirit of all the greats there’s a considerable element of mystery surrounding the man. Say it very, very quietly, but there’s even dispute as to his birthday and parentage. Most sources agree he was born on February 22, 1810, yet some claim his family could be found celebrating his birth on March 1. At the time of his death only Jane Stirling, his Scottish benefactor, claimed to know the truth, and this she wrote on a piece of paper before burying it with him. Furthermore, while most accept he was the son of a French expatriate some experts argue he was the bastard child of an unnamed aristocrat. The truth has been lost to time. One thing we can be certain of, and that’s his birthplace the town of Żelazowa Wola ﬁfty kilometres west of Warsaw. However, he stayed there for just a year, with the family moving to Warsaw in 1811 after his ‘father’, a man who’d fought the Russians in the Napoleonic Wars, found a job as a French tutor. By all accounts he was a prodigy from the oﬃng. The young Frederic started learning piano at the age of four, and by facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

the age of eight had already performed at what is now the Presidential Palace. Yet in spite of his obvious talents applications for a state grant were repeatedly refused. Nevertheless, his childhood was happy, and the gingerbread eating Frederic received gushing reviews in local columns and press. A diligent student he was educated at home for the first 13 years, before attending Warsaw’s Lyceum, and then the Warsaw Music Conservatory. He continued to blossom under its director, the Polish composer Joseph Elsner, who was wowed by Chopin’s musical mastery. He graduated from the Conservatory in 1829, the same year he was to meet Konstancha Gładkowska, and his unrequited love for her inspired many of his early compositions. Within three weeks of graduation he made a sparkling foreign debut in Vienna, before returning to Poland to perform the premier of his Piano Concerto in F minor. Already recognised as an amazing talent, Chopin started showing the signs of illness that would continue to blight the rest of his life. A keen traveller (on record is a tour of Europe undertaken in 1826 during which he visited Dresden, Kraków, Prague and numerous other places as a tourist), Chopin set off to play in Vienna in November 1830, following a farewell party in a Wola tavern. Unbeknownst to him at the time, that was to be his last taste of Warsaw. By the end of the month Poland had risen in rebellion against the ruling Russians. Dissuaded from joining the uprising himself Chopin drew inspiration from events to write his masterpiece, Revolution. Passages of his Stuttgart diary record his torment: “Oh God, do you exist? Or are you yourself a Muscovite!” Choosing to stay in exile Chopin settled in playboy Paris where he was welcomed by Polish émigrés, as well as upcoming composers and high society. His friends numbered Berlioz, Bellini (who he is buried next to) and Mendelssohn, as well as high profile Poles like the uncrowned King, Prince Adam Czartoryski and bard Adam Mickiewicz, while his dapper dress and natural charms attracted a string of adoring females. Drawing on his Polish upbringing the 1830s saw Chopin enjoy an impressively productive spell, composing a series of acclaimed polonaises and mazurkas. Ill health followed him however, so much so that when he was taken ill on a trip to meet his parents in 1835 some Polish scandal sheets reported him dead. He wasn’t, and the defining point of his life was to occur two years later when he met the controversial author George Sand (yes, that’s a woman). His first impression is recorded as being surprisingly acid: ‘what an unpleasant woman’, he is known to have commented. Already secretly engaged to a 17 year old Polish girl, how Chopin’s life would have evolved if he had never seen Sand again is open to speculation. Instead he embarked on a torrid nine year affair with this classic ‘scarlet woman’, with one stage of their rocky relationship marked by a stint in an abandoned monastery on the island of Mallorca. Racked with chronic lung problems and a near permanent cough, the faltering affair spun out of control when Sand, a loose-moraled man-killer, serialised the novel Lucretia Floriani in a Paris newspaper in 1846. The boorish, August - September 2014

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Chopin FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

Touted as one of the most high tech in Europe the museum officially opened in the spring of 2010 to help mark the 200th anniversary of one of Poland’s most famous sons. Taking up four floors the museum features an interactive style and shares in the life of Chopin from start to finish leaving absolutely no detail out. Among the 5,000 exhibits are a lock of hair, his school exercise books, a sweet box, a gold watch presented to the ten year old Frederic by an admiring Italian singer and the passport he used to enter England. So comprehensive is the collection it even features the last letter he wrote to his family and dried flowers from his deathbed. Also, of course, are several paintings and sculptures (including his death mask), and a recreation of his Paris drawing room and even an intriguing section on the women who made the man. However, what really revolutionizes this museum is the way your route is conducted. Aside from an avalanche of e-books, audio-visuals, music games and touchscreen options, the museum allows visitors to ‘adapt their trip to their particular circumstances’. Put simply those entering can choose exactly what they want to see, and how much they want to know about it. Even better are the micro-chipped tickets that can be swiped along different interactive exhibits to allow the visitor to hear music, stories or watch a film. One area that was particularly popular is the musical Twister game, which had normally stoic middle-aged tourists leaping from spot to spot as music played. Mr Chopin, welcome to the 21st century. As for the building, that’s worth getting to know as well. Located in the Ostrogski Palace the structure housing the museum is something of a Warsaw landmark, and was originally designed by Tylman van Gameren. In the past it’s been home to everything from a Napoleonic military hospital to the riotous Morgan’s Pub, and its catacombs are said to be home of the legendary Golden Duck; a princess charmed by the devil before being transformed into a beaked amphibian.QC-3, ul. Okólnik 1, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.chopin.museum. Open 11:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 22/13zł, family ticket 62zł, Sun free. Number of visitors is restricted, so it is advisable to reserve tickets in advance by email or phone. YU 104 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Chopin asexual antihero is commonly recognized as being a parody of Chopin. Broke, ill and now broken-hearted, Chopin led an increasingly miserable and secluded life. He finally passed away in his Paris apartment aged just 39 - though just like his birth, his death is equally contentious; some believe tuberculosis as the cause of death, others a malady such as emphysema or cystic fibrosis. If you believe the stories he carried a lock of Sand’s hair till the day he died (though by the same token he is also alleged to have carried an urn of Polish soil). Buried in Pere-Lachaise cemetery in Paris, on his insistence his body was cut open (he was petrified of being buried alive) and his heart later interned in a pillar of Warsaw’s Kościół Świętego Krzyża. His funeral was as weird as his life, delayed for two weeks while church authorities debated whether to grant his wish and allow Mozart’s Requiem to be sung at his funeral (the point of contention being the presence of female singers). Regarded as the pinnacle of the Romantic style his music and legend survive to this day.

WHAT TO SEE ŁAZIENKI PARK Our youthful cherry-cheeked hero frequently gave concerts in the Belvedere Palace (G-5, ul. Belwederska 52), then the stamping ground of the Russian aristocracy. It was here he played for the Tsar’s brother, Great Prince Konstanty, whose numerous duties included being the commanderin-chief of the Polish Army. So taken was he by Chopin’s skills that he persuaded him to pen a march to be played during military parades. Elsewhere in Łazienki don’t dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed sculptor Wacław Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed a placard on the smouldering ruin declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader’. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt and a faithful reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. An identical replica can be found at Japan’s Hamamatsu Academy of Music. CHOPIN BENCHES The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of ﬁfteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life. Made of cast iron and polished black stone these benches, designed by Professor Jerzy Porebski, feature a button which when pressed have been designed to unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. However, that’s not all. These benches see Chopin go techno: each one comes inscribed with a special code - take a pic on your phone, then send it to the instructed number and you’ll be rewarded to free access to Chopin melodies, facts, ﬁgures and photographs. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

CHOPIN MONUMENT (POMNIK CHOPINA) Don’t dare miss a visit to the art nouveau Chopin Monument (G-4) next to the Botanical Garden. Set in the midst of a rose garden it was erected in 1926, the work of acclaimed sculptor Wacław Szymankowski. As part of the Nazi brutalization of Warsaw it was dynamited by German busybodies on May 31, 1940. The following day an unknown patriot had placed a placard on the smoldering ruin declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader’. A plaster-cast of the original model allowed the statue to be rebuilt and a reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.QG-4, Łazienki Park. CHURCH OF THE NUNS OF THE VISITATION Visit the church that Chopin attended in his youth by popping into this baroque beauty. Pride of place goes to the original organ which our man himself played during a part time stint as a school organist. A plaque outside confirms the Chopin connection: ‘In honour of Fryderyk Chopin, who played on the organ in this church as a pupil of the Warsaw Lyceum in the years 1825-1826’.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 34, tel. (+48) 22 826 65 85, www. wizytki.waw.pl. Open 09:00 - 16:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 16:30, Sun 13:15 - 16:30. No visiting during mass please. HOLY CROSS CHURCH (KOŚCIÓŁ ŚW. KRZYŻA) No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart (the rest of him being in Paris’ famous Père Lachaise cemetery). Added to the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.QC-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz. pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 14:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please.

AND THE REST It didn’t have a Starbucks and it didn’t have Coffeeheaven, but even back in those days Warsaw had a thriving café culture. This wasn’t lost on Chopin who would frequent now defunct venues such as Pod Kopciuszkiem and Dziurka on ul. Miodowa. One venue that has survived is Honoratka, named after it’s proprietor Honorata Zimerman, and a particular favourite stomping ground of the composer. He was also an avid reader, confessing to visiting the Brzezina Bookstore (again, now gone) on Miodowa every day, as well as stocking up on sheet music in Dal Trozza on Senatorska. Elsewhere the building on the corner of ul. Kozia and Trębacka formerly housed the Royal Post Office, and it’s here that Chopin forwarded his luggage from before departing Poland for what would prove to be his last time. Finally there’s Powązki Cemetery, where his parents lie in plot 9-IV-1. Józef Elsner, his mentor and teacher, can be found at plot 159-V-1. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

ŻELAZOWA WOLA ŻELAZOWA WOLA - BIRTHPLACE The Chopin clan left for Warsaw in the autumn of 1810, but even so Żelazowa Wola clearly held fond memories for the family. Close friends with the neighbouring Skarbek family the Chopins found themselves returning frequently for their holidays, and we know for fact the composer spent Christmas here in 1825 and New Year in 1826. The ZW manor house which saw the birth of Chopin is thought to have been built at the tail end of the 18th century, and came into the ownership of Countess Ludwika Skarbek in 1801. Adam Towiański, who resided there between 1859 and 1878, was the first to raise the idea of turning the manor into a place of memory, and he set about restoring the complex to its Chopin-era glory. A change of ownership saw the project stall for a decade and it was only in 1891 that work was resumed on building a Chopin museum. Thwarted by a lack of funds these efforts didn’t get much further than the unveiling of a Chopin monument, and for the next couple of decades work didn’t so much stall as die. Poland regained her independence in 1918, and the related surge in national pride and patriotism saw new efforts to commemorate Chopin’s legacy. The building was granted historic status and in 1928 the property was purchased by a Sochaczew-based Chopin society. Restoration on the buildings was initiated in 1930, as were plans to landscape the gardens, and buoyed by donations the curators started amassing a stack of Chopin memorabilia, among them a Pleyel piano. Disaster struck in the familiar form of the German army: the outbreak of war in 1939 saw a German unit billeted here, and the building was looted and damaged. By the time the Chopin Institute was awarded trust of the house in the late 1940s the house found itself in a sorry state of rot. Working round the clock to restore it Żelazowa Wola was re-opened to the public on the centenary of his death in 1949. Today no original fixtures and fittings remain, and even the original layout has been altered somewhat. Even so, the house has been filled with period keepsakes, instruments and paintings, and visitors all attest to the haunting spirit of Chopin that hangs in the rooms. Outside the landscaped gardens make for a nice weekend walk, and feature four Chopin monuments including one obelisk dating from 1894. Żelazowa Wola is 54km west of Warsaw and can be reached by catching a mini-bus at ul. Marszałkowska (next to Rossman) courtesy of Motobus. QŻelazowa Wola 15, tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www.chopin. museum. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Museum closed Mon (park open). Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 7/4zł for the park, 23/14zł for park and museum. Thu free. N August - September 2014

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Łódź ŁÓDŹ IN YOUR POCKET Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lodz, but it most cer- öGě tainly isn’t. Think of it as Woodge, and three hundred years ago a visit here would have produced the sight of little more than one man and his dog. In terms of age Łódź is one of the youngest cities in the country, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution. And while Łódź cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all inside our 13th issue of Łódź In Your Pocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-language guide to the city. Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

May - August 2014

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GETTING TO ŁÓDŹ Łódz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily accessed by train. When modernization ﬁnishes Łódz will be within an hour’s reach of Warsaw, but for the time being journey time is around two hours and ﬁfteen minutes, while they continue to work on the new high speed link. If you’re travelling from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket running to Łódź Kaliska train station (Łódz Fabryczna is under construction until 2015). The city centre is best reached by taxis. Taxis stand directly outside the main entrance the train station, though travellers should only use cabs that are clearly marked.

SOME BASICS Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the name of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater for the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800 as late as the 16th century. The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to 1820, when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic began a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’s population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made and lost by the major industrialist families. By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre. But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of 106 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź. Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw the city annexed into The Third Reich. The following six years of occupation left the population decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated 300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of Warsaw also saw many of Poland’s eminent artists and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city was Łódż, and today the town can boast a rich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one of the most important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting underground culture. Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history. Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest municipal park in Europe. You’ll find everything you need to know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as our full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.

MANUFAKTURA How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself ‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura, for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story. Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and big screen showings of sports events. Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress with new additions and changes happening all the time. The complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

Leisure

Leisure BOWLING & BILLIARDS ARCO BOWLING ALLEY Two ﬂoors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150zł per lane per hour, shoes and instructor included.QD-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920r. 19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-bowling. pl. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

ENTERTAINMENT CENTRES HULAKULA LEISURE CENTRE Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall, climbing wall and indoor playground for children.QC-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. SPIN CITY Admission for bowling is 40-99zł per hour. Features a bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and darts and a video games area.Qul. Powstańców Śląskich 126A (Cinema City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.spincity.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00.

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Need a break from sightseeing? Warsaw oﬀers plenty of diversions that will let you relax away from the crowds whether you prefer leisurely exploring a local park, engaging in something active or winding down with a visit to one of the city’s many spas.

BIKE RENTAL VETURILO Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials by introducing a city-wide bike rental fleet, and the numbers are impressive. With 160 stations spread throughout Warsaw Śródmieście, Bielany Targówek, Żoliborz, Ochota, Praga Północ, Włochy, Bemowo, Wola, Wilanow, and Ursynow and offering 2,500 bikes there’s no question you’ll be spotting the silvery fleet flying through the city’s streets. And why not try one yourself? The system is ridiculously easy: set up an account online (en.veturilo.waw.pl is the Englishlanguage site) and pay the initial 10zł fee. Once you’re registered you can visit any of the stations and select your ride, which has its own individual code. Simply dial the enter your phone number, your PIN and the bike’s code, and you’ll receive the number to unlock the bicycle from the stand. Then you’re off! The first 20 minutes are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 2160 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, 108 Warsaw In Your Pocket

and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours. There’s a 272zł fee for exceeding 12 hours, and a whopping 1,770zł cost for replacing a lost or damaged bike so behave yourself. When you return the bike, which can be done at any of the stations, you make another phone call confirming the return and you’re finished. Qen.veturilo.waw.pl. WYGODNY ROWER Choose from two diﬀerent styles of bicycles for cruising around the city at this cafe/boutique/bike shop. An hour goes for 10 zł, 2 hrs/18zł and 4 hrs/25 zł while a full day will cost 40zł and 24 hours 50zł. All rentals require a returnable deposit of 200zl or 50 euros.QC-3, ul. Smolna 10, tel. (+48) 787 38 63 86, www.wygodnyrower.pl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

HULAKULA BOWLING ALLEY QC-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 35-125zł per hour. Shoes included. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

HOLMES PLACE At 3,800m2 this is Warsaw’s largest ﬁtness centre and includes a 25 metre pool, cafe and latest in hi-tech equipment.QE-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 356 59 04, www.holmesplace.pl. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PURE HEALTH AND FITNESS Third ﬂoor of Złote Tarasy, with facilties including gym, jacuzzi, sauna and solarium.QA-4, ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 379 77 77, www.purepoland.com. Open 06:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.

GOLF GOLF PARK DRIVING RANGE For 25zł you get 50 balls for use on the driving range. Qul. Vogla 19 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www. golfparkspoland.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. GOLF PARKS POLAND A driving range and six-hole course for 30zl per hour. Qul. Vogla 19 (Wilanów), tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www. golfparkspoland.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

HORSE RIDING ANKA RANCHO HORSE RIDING Qul. Wawrzyniecka 25, Glinianka, tel. (+48) 602 30 48 61, www.ankarancho.pl. Open Sat, Sun only: 09:00 13:00, 15:00 till dusk. Phone reservation 2 days in advance. One hour horse riding 50zł. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

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Leisure BOAT RENTAL & RIVER CRUISES

Leisure WILCZENIEC COUNTRY CLUB English speaking instruction also available.Qul. KoĹ&#x203A;cielna Droga 10, Ĺ omianki, tel. (+48) 22 751 97 77, www. wilczeniec.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 60zĹ&#x201A;/45 minutes of riding in a closed corral with assistance, 40zĹ&#x201A;/45 minutes riding outside the corral on your own.

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS & PARKS

Photo: MichaĹ&#x201A; Matuszewski/Flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0

RIVER FERRIES In the summer ferries pootle back and forth across the WisĹ&#x201A;a at four strategically-placed points: Cypel Czerniakowski - Saska KÄ&#x2122;pa (H-3), Poniatowski Bridge - National Stadium (H-2), Podzamcze - Zoo (B/C-1) and Ĺ omianki Nowodwory. These crossings are phenomenally popular and unfortunately passenger numbers are limited, so the 3-4 minutes it would take to make the crossing often ends up being a lot of time spent in a queue to get on board. Still, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a novel way of getting across the WisĹ&#x201A;a without having to cross a bridge, though the ferries end for the season on August 31.QĹ omianki - Nowodwory ferry runs weekdays 13:00 - 19:00 on the hour Sat, Sun and holidays 10:10 - 20:15. Cypel Czerniakowski - Saska KÄ&#x2122;pa and Podzamcze - Zoo ferries run weekdays 12:30 - 19:15, Sat, Sun and holidays 10:00 - 20:05. Poniatowski Bridge National Stadium ferry runs weekdays 12:45 - 19:30, Sat, Sun and holidays 10:10 - 20:15. Admission free. WATER TRAMS From the 1st of May ZTM (the local public transport network) set sail on the WisĹ&#x201A;a for the summer season. The â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;water tramâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is not only a handy way to get around, but a unique if brief way to do some sightseeing. The route oďŹ&#x20AC;ers splendid views of many top attractions, including the National Stadium, the Copernicus Science Centre, the Old Town and Royal Castle. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to take your copy of In Your Pocket along for the ride so that you can read up on all of these places as you glide by. On the weekends you can catch the ZeďŹ r river cruiser out to the popular lakeside town of Serock; the trip takes all day and leaves from Cypel Czerniakowski (H3) at 09:00, arriving at the pier in Serock at 12:15. After a rather brief stop-over of 90 minutes the vessel heads back to the big city, docking in Warsaw around 19:00. QH-3, Cypel Czerniakowski, tel. (+48) 801 04 44 84, www.ztm.waw.pl. Water tram runs Fri at 11:00, 13:00, 15:00; Sat, Sun 11:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00. The trams end for the season on August 31. Special water tram tickets can be purchased for 18/9zĹ&#x201A; at departure points or on board; standard ZTM bus and tram tickets are not valid. Daytrips to Serock cost 36/18zĹ&#x201A;. 110 Warsaw In Your Pocket

HELICOPTER.PL See Warsaw from above in a Eurocopter courtesy of Helicopter.pl. Flights depart from Bemowo and last 30 minutes, ďŹ&#x201A;ying over the WisĹ&#x201A;a and National Stadium.Qul. KsiÄ&#x2122;Ĺźycowa 3 (Bielany), building #15, tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www.helicopter.pl.

RACQUET SPORTS CITY SPORTS CLUB Located on ul. Domaniewska, they oďŹ&#x20AC;er a variety of sports instruction and facility rental for tennis, swimming, golf, squash, dance and climbing walls. Tennis is perhaps the most popular with numerous courts available (60-100zĹ&#x201A;/ per hour), lessons with an English-speaking instructor (60180zĹ&#x201A;/per hour), equipment rental (by prior arrangement) and social lessons for expats.Qul. Domaniewska 41a (MokotĂłw), tel. (+48) 695 83 68 80, www.citysportsclub.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

which has expanded spa services like massage and microdermabrasion.QC-3, ul. Nowy Ĺ&#x161;wiat 58a, tel. (+48) 22 826 81 01, www.franckprovost.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. HOLMES PLACE PREMIUM Spa, ďŹ tness, swimming pool, wet and dry sauna as well as beauty treatments. One day pass: 100zĹ&#x201A;.QG-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. (+48) 22 851 05 63, www.holmesplace.pl. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. NEW SALON KOSMETYCZNY 15-115 A centrally located beauty salon and spa oďŹ&#x20AC;ering a vast range of treatments, massages and related complicated looking procedures to help make you look and feel like a million dollars (approx. 3 million PLN!). Constantly keeping an eye on the latest European and International trends in the beauty market. Members of the 15-115 team are well known for their regular appearances in the Polish media and will be sure to oďŹ&#x20AC;er you some of the best advice, care and pampering in the city.QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 501 01 51 15, www.15-115.pl.

ZOO

ALCHEMY DAY SPA Pamper yourself at one of Warsawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most established day spas. Alchemy oďŹ&#x20AC;ers a full range of beauty treatments and relaxation therapies using some of the ďŹ nest natural products from around the globe. If the sterile, hospitallike look of many modern spas isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t your thing then this is the perfect place for you. The location itself, a 1920â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s town house apartment with a great sense of history, makes you feel relaxed and at home the moment you set foot in the door. Forget all the madness going on outside and just let the goodness wash over you!QG-5, ul. Klonowa 20/1, tel. (+48) 22 849 32 56, www.dayspa.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. FRANCK PROVOST French-trained English-speaking stylists oďŹ&#x20AC;ering unisex hair treatment and styling from 100zĹ&#x201A; to 350zĹ&#x201A;. Manicure and pedicure also available as well as cosmetic products by Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Oreal and Kerastase. Also at ul. PuĹ&#x201A;awska 25a (G-5), warsaw.inyourpocket.com

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SUNGATE BEAUTY & SPA The menu of services available at Sungate is staggering: from facials and every imaginable type of massage (shea butter to aromatherapy) to waxing and nailcare they have you covered from head to foot. Package for couples, women and just regular folks who like to indulge are also available.QB-3, Pl. PowstaĹ&#x201E;cĂłw Warszawy 2, tel. (+48) 517 01 28 80, www.spasungate.pl. Open 10:00 - 24:00.

SWIMMING AQUAPARK WESOLANDIA Includes a junior swimming pool, Jacuzzi, slide, ďŹ tness centre. Length 25m, depth 1.1-1.8m.Qul. WspĂłlna 4 (WesoĹ&#x201A;a), tel. (+48) 22 773 91 91, www.wesolandia.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 12-20zĹ&#x201A; per hour. All day tickets 30-32zĹ&#x201A;.

SQUASH CITY Nine air-conditioned courts. A second location at Malborska 51-53 features six courts and the same prices for admission.QAl. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City, Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 45-65zĹ&#x201A;.

SPA & BEAUTY

beauty & spa

Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conďŹ&#x201A;ict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan ĹťabiĹ&#x201E;ski, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, ĹťabiĹ&#x201E;ski helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The zoo oďŹ&#x192;cially re-opened in 1949.QC-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sat,Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 20/15zĹ&#x201A;. Children under 3 years free. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

WODNY PARK Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the best pool of the lot with facilities including saunas, steam rooms, snow cabins, solariums as well as loads of slides and other recreational facilities. Prices range from 20-26zĹ&#x201A;/12-20zĹ&#x201A; per hour, with a reduced ticket to the spa available Mon-Fri until 17:00 for 20zl.Qul. Merliniego 4 (MokotĂłw), tel. (+48) 22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark.com. pl. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (Spa open 11:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. Admission 27-42/20zĹ&#x201A;).

15-115

www.

.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 00-508 Warsaw (vis-Ă -vis SMYKa) tel. 22/ 468 08 68, 501 015 115 www.15-115.pl

August - September 2014

111

Shopping

TAX FREE

So ven Sou venirc ircity ity

Paris, London or New York it ain’t, but hard-core shoppers can still find plenty to spend their well-earned lolly on. Warsaw is seeing true growth in the array of shops available and the number of big-name labels that are opening storefronts. Whether it’s western-style malls, designer boutiques, dusty family stores or antique markets, a day spent shopping can result in both bargains and treasures, and there are plenty of gifts to be had for everyone on your list (including yourself ); below we list some recommendations: WIFE/GIRLFRIEND Poland is well known as THE home of amber, so grab a piece of jewellery made from this Baltic treasure at the appropriately named World of Amber. For “Darling, I’ll love you forever” gifts, check out the credit card busting, luxury goods worlds of VITKAC or the Likus Concept Store. HUSBAND/BOYFRIEND One word: vodka. Another word: smalec. Take home Poland’s famous nectar and a container of savoury, spreadable lard and you’ll make any man happy. Krakowski Kredens carries tasty tubs of smalec (as well as dozens of other Polish foodstuffs that make perfect gifts), while you’ll find popular Polish vodka brands like Żubrówka and Belvedere in any alcohol shop. BROTHER What brother couldn’t use a Prussian helmet or a bobblehead of a long-deceased dictator? Check out our markets section, where places like Koło Bazar and Targowisko Bakalarska promise an array of oddities and treasures that brothers will appreciate for their sheer quirk. 112 Warsaw In Your Pocket

SISTER Sis will definitely become suspicious of your new found eye for design if you pick her up a fashionable felt bag embellished with an embroidered traditional folk motif from the immensely popular and trend-setting Polish design shop Goshico. If the bag’s a bit much, go for something smaller like an iPhone case from the equally cool accessories range. CHILDREN The flagship store of the EMPiK department store stocks a great range of kid’s toys and games. In the mayhem you’ll find surreal Polish cuddly toys battling it out with the latest blockbuster movie figurines, both computer and board games, plus loads of other creative things for little tykes. For young boffins we recommend you raid the Science Store at the Copernicus Science Centre; games, experiments and books for all ages await. MOTHER You can’t go far wrong by getting mama some of PL’s famous Bolesławiec Pottery from the store of the same name. The mainly blue and white ‘peacock eye’ patterns hold something of a cult status and a great range is available from Cepelia. The neighbours will be in awe when they drop by for tea and a gossip. FATHER If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his life in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed with them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing maps from bygone days. Remember to ask about restrictions on certain pre-1945 items being taken out of the country. warsaw.inyourpocket.com

ALCOHOL BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA Under the same ownership as the La Vina tapas bar, this little wine shop stocks about 50 refined wines from a number of Spanish provinces north of Madrid. As well as the full range of wines from the owner’s own Santa Rufina vineyard, he has personally sourced an outstanding selection via his own personal contacts and his passion for the wines of northern Spain. Being the sole importer means that you will not find these wines anywhere else in the city. So go ahead, impress your friends!QD-6, ul. Bohdanowicza 3, tel. (+48) 22 824 00 33, www.bodegassantarufina. pl. Open 15:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. EKSKLUZYWNE ALKOHOLE M&P Wines and assorted alcohol from Poland and across the world.QE-3, ul. Pańska 81/83, tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, www.wina-mp.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

AMBER & JEWELLERY ART GALLERY AMBER SILVER LINE This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety. This is the flagship location of what is the largest and oldest Amber dealers facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

in the City. Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones. Also visit they’re other high street location at ul. Nowy Świat 59.QB-1, ul. Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. ART STUDIO JEWELLERY SCHUBERT There’s no end to the amber oﬀerings you’ll ﬁnd near the Stary Rynek, and here’s another. Helpful salespeople and more forms of amber - - bracelets, earrings, pins, oh my! - than you can imagine.QB-2, ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. (+48) 22 635 29 38. Open 09:00 - 20:00. GALERIA BURSZTYNEK The Całka family have been in the amber business for two generations and their love of this gift of the Baltic coast makes Galeria Bursztynek the store to visit for stunning jewellery and artefacts, all produced in their own workshop. Not content with just selling you a unique souvenir from your trip to Warsaw they are also keen to educate customers about the history of amber, the craftsmanship involved in working the resin and its many uses throughout the ages. In order to do this, they have turned part of their glamorous Old Town emporium into a permanent and fascinating museum display. Also at ul. Zamoyskiego 45a/2 (H-1).QB-1, ul. Długa 8/14 lok.70, tel. (+48) 508 51 16 80, www.bursztynek. co. Open 10:00 - 20:00. August - September 2014

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Shopping ANYTKWARIAT LAMUS On first glance you’ll spot the shelves packed with old books and encyclopaedias and want to thumb your nose, but a further peek inside Lamus reveals bins of prints waiting to be sifted through. Old Warsaw cityscapes, drawings of Polish flora and fauna and even the off bit of vintage erotica can be found by those intrepid enough to dig, and the walls are hung with old maps that are also for sale. QB-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. (+48) 22 831 63 21, www. lamus.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. GALERIA ABO ART Miniscule art gallery that sells only works by Polish artists. Watercolours of Old Town landmarks, metal art, painted silks, glassware and jewellery all jumbled together for your perusal. A unique local offering. Call ahead to make sure they’ll be open.QB-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 17, tel. (+48) 604 78 18 81, www.splendidbox.pl. Open 12:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

GUSTAW This shop cum gallery handles mostly amber and has recently expanded into gold and diamond jewellery. They are the oldest, largest and cheapest amber jeweller in the capital and the only one approved by this sultry sap’s very own governing body (International Amber Association). Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers. Also in the Old Town at ul. Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13 (B-1).QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 59. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. W.KRUK Polish jewellery, amber and watches from various international brand names including Emporio Armani, Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Longines, Anne Klein. Watches only available at these locations: (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 8 and Pl. Konstytucji 6 (F-4).QC-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661 98 05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

LAPIDARIUM We can (and probably have) spend hours at Lapidarium wandering the cluttered rooms ﬁlled with all manner of junk - - and we say that with love. Old uniforms, reproduction propaganda posters, busts of Lenin, ancient record players and even old farm equipment ﬁghts for your attention here. Give yourself time to wander and accumulate a weird selection for purchase. How to spot this place? Look for the antique bicycle and spindle sitting outside the entrance.QB-1, ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. (+48) 509 60 18 94, www.lapidarium.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00.

BOOKS, MUSIC & FILMS AMERICAN BOOKSTORE Located in the enormous Arkadia shopping complex, this is an excellent shop for English-language literature, though their stock is heavily inﬂuenced by the bestsellers list.QF4, Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. (+48) 22 331 29 08, www. americanbookstore.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 21:00.

As a traveler residing in a non-EU country you are entitled to claim back the VAT on your purchases when you bring them home.

1 GET IT

Once youíve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop staff for a Tax Free Form when youíre paying for it.

2 STAMP IT

You will find Global Blue Tax Free Shopping service in the major shops of Poland.

When youíre leaving the country to head home or to continue your journey, take your purchases, receipt and passport to the customs desk to get your Tax Free Form stamped. If youíre travelling on to another EU country, get the stamp on your Tax Free Form at your final point of departure from the EU.

Spend a minimum of 200PLN, and save up to 12% of the purchase price. For more details contact: Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o. Phone: +48 22 500 18 51 e-mail: taxfree.pl@globalblue.com www.globalblue.com

3 REFUND Finally, show your stamped Tax Free Form and passport to our staff at Global Blue Customer Services or one of our partner refund points and theyíll issue your refund immediately.

The Global Blue Card Your Passport to Great Savings, the World Over (more information at GBís website)

FASHION & ACCESSORIES GOSHICO We can guarantee that you won’t have to walk very far before spotting one of Goshico’s handmade, felt and traditional folk design inspired embroidered bags on the arm of some trend-setting local. Due to the company’s phenomenal success the range continues to expand and now includes the likes of iPad/phone cases, laptop bags and small accessories. Products are available from numerous outlets around Warsaw but visit the city centre showroom to view the whole range or discuss having a custom made item designed especially for you.QF-4, ul. Koszykowa 51a lok.37, tel. (+48) 501 80 88 78, www.goshico.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

TAX FREE SHOPPING Non-EU residents are entitled to claim a VAT refund when the purchased goods are exported in an unused condition outside the EU in personal luggage. Shop wherever you see the Global Blue logo. The minimum total purchase value with VAT per Tax Free Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free Form, have it stamped when leaving the ﬁnal point of departure from the EU and reclaim your money. For full details check www.global-blue.com.

ANTIQUES & ART GALLERIES ANDRZEJ MLECZKO GALLERY These anti-establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny cartoons by Poland’s favourite cartoonist Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you of someone you know (if you speak Polish, that is). Ideal for Polish friends and family, here you can buy original works, prints, mugs, shirts, bedding sets and posters.QB-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140, tel. (+48) 795 02 98 29, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. 114 Warsaw In Your Pocket

Tax Free Shopping

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MOLIERA 2 Exclusive two level boutique featuring collections by Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Louboutin, Balmain, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Kenzo, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s and Ralph Lauren.QB-2, ul. Moliera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70 99, www.moliera2.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TFH TYMCZASOWY BUTIK This one-time pop-up shop has set down roots finally, which means you’ll know exactly where to find the city’s hottest fashions. TFH’s new boutique displays an impressive selection of stylish t-shirts, handbags and hoodies from a variety of different designers. Don’t forget to check out the accessories and large pictorial books about - what else? - fashion.QB-4, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel. (+48) 509 74 17 89. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

FOOD & SWEETS CUKIER LUKIER Warsaw’s very own Willy Wonka style boiled candy factory selling a vast range of naturally ﬂavoured sweets. Choose from a great range of taste-bud tickling ﬂavours, including kiwi, rhubarb, aniseed and almost any berry you care to mention. Lollipops come individually wrapped in all shapes and sizes, from classic whirly-twirly designs through to hearts and roses for that special sweet toothed person in your life. Demonstrations of the candy making process are held four times a day and the whole shop can be booked August - September 2014

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Shopping for private demonstrations and lollipop workshops, a great idea for a creative kid’s party.QB-4, ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. (+48) 605 66 00 05, www.cukierlukier.pl. Open 10:00 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51 Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00, Sat 11.00-17.00

THE BEST GIFT SHOP IN WARSAW!

SHOPPING MALLS FACTORY OUTLET URSUS This outlet centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over other shopping malls. Recognisable names among the brands include Desigual, Adidas, Reserved, Mango, Guess and more. One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can access it by taking the SKM train from Śródmieście and getting oﬀ at SKM Ursus, or by catching bus 127 at Dworzec Centralny and switching to bus 194 or 716 at PKP Wlochy. Your ﬁnal destination will be Ursus-Ratusz. Also at ul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka).QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www. factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

SPECJAŁY REGIONALNE This restaurant and take away deli serves up meat and potatoes in all their varying Polish forms. Think Polish tapas - it’s a great place to go and sample the full range of Polish sausage meat and ham. Take something from the del take home for later and wash it down with a regional wine, nalewki or mead from their overﬂowing alcohol cabinet. QC-3, ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. (+48) 662 25 42 15, www. specjalyregionalne.pl. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

• seashells, minerals and fossils • silver and amber jewellery • semiprecious stone necklaces • African and Asian handcraft • decorative stone products

SOUVENIRCITY in the heart of

Warsaw Old Town Świętojańska 25 street tel. 22 185 58 98 opening hours:

7 days a week 8:30 AM - 23:00 PM

classic souvenirs and BOLESŁAWIEC traditional polish pottery

AL PR O D

U CT

IGIN

BOLESŁAWIEC POTTERY Brightly patterned hand-finished ceramics and tableware. QA-4, ul. Prosta 2/14, tel. (+48) 22 624 84 08, www. ceramicboleslawiec.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. CEPELIA Your first stop for tacky souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handicrafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3).QB-4, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, tel. (+48) 22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. NEPTUNEA A weird little find selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver jewellery, oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute treasure, and a must visit if you’re looking for a something a little unique.QB-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 47/51, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 05, www. neptunea.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. NEW SOUVENIRCITY Located in the winding streets of the Old Town, this modern gift shop is the ideal place to pick up a memento of your visit to Warsaw or to snap up a few shiny and very reasonably priced trinkets for ‘them back home’. Fridge magnets, key rings, figurines, t-shirts and a whole host of other items emblazoned with the words ‘Warsaw’ or ‘Polska’ fill the store. They are also the only shop in the area to stock a great selection of products from the legendary Bolesławiec pottery (JPII’s papal pottery of choice) - you’ll recognise the patterns as soon as you see them!QB-2, ul. Świętojańska 23/25, tel. (+48) 22 185 58 98, www.souvenir-city.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

MARKETS WITH THIS AD

-10% DISCOUNT

N PO D E I LA

116 Warsaw In Your Pocket

ON ALL ITEMS IN THE STORE

FACTORY OUTLET ANNOPOL FACTORY’s second Warsaw location featuring: Nike, Adidas, Smyk, Ecco , Empik, Guess, Wrangler, Pepe Jeans and more. Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

KOŁO BAZAR Quality ﬂea market held each weekend from dawn till dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the country this is exactly the place if you’ve ever wanted to own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India (yours for 16,000zł). warsaw.inyourpocket.com

What else can you find? We’ve spotted pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early 19th century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and grandfather clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as 1zł. The golden rule is to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price means overpaying.QD-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836 23 51. Open 06:00 - 18:00. TARG DOBREGO JEDZENIA W FORTECY Food, food and more food. Find fresh herbs and vegetables, cheeses, meats, eggs straight from the chicken and eco honey for sale. No definite closing hours as they stay open later if people are still hanging around.QB-1, ul. Zakroczymska 12, tel. (+48) 601 13 58 01, www.kregliccy.pl. Open Wed only 08:00 - 17:00. TARGOWISKO BAKALARSKA Prior to the building of Warsaw’s new National Stadium the site was home to the famous communist era Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium), a monstrous, crumbling stadium which spent its last years as a huge outdoor market. After the market closed many of the vendors relocated here, making it the capital’s largest, most diverse daily outdoor market. Expect to find loads of tat, clothes, foodstuffs, perfumes, toys and a few oddities of dubious origin. With over 500 pavilions and 700 market stalls, it’s a fun place to just wander around and soak up the atmosphere. To get there take bus 141, 189 or 401 to the ‘Hynka’ stop; or trams 7, 9, or 15 to ‘Włochy-Ratusz’. Qul. Bakalarska 11 (Włochy), tel. (+48) 22 846 51 79, www.naszrynek.eu. Open 07:00 - 16:00. facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

VITKAC The giant glowing ‘Gucci’ sign will be your first hint that this isn’t your typical shopping centre, and the heavy security is the second. Shoppers can find the popular Likus Concept Store on the main level of the sprawling structure while labels like Givenchy, Armani, Dsquared2, Alexander McQueen, Gucci, Valention and Yves Saint Laurent are spread over the remaining four levels of shopping space, with roughly three employees available for every browsing customer. The atmosphere is more museum than mall, but if you’re looking to splurge on designer names then this is your headquarters. If maxing out your credit card works up an appetite be sure to head to Restauracja Concept 13, which offers sweeping city views in a modern, open-concept space.QC-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 22 310 73 13, www.vitkac.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. ZŁOTE TARASY Located next to the central train station, the Złote Tarasy complex signals a bold shift away from the out-of-town malls found in Warsaw, and features familiar stores like Marks & Spencers, Aldo, Poland’s first Body Shop, Hugo Boss, Van Graf and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors can not only visit Poland’s first Hard Rock Café which is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels. Designed by Jerde Partnership International, the central showpiece is a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.QA-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www. zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. August - September 2014

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