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DAY TRIPPING After poking around all the glass shops, take a daytrip to see the Czech countryside and towns, easily reached using public transport. Escape the crowds and follow us to the best castles and nature near the capital. Karlštejn Castle The Czech Republic’s most impressive and most-visited castle is just 33km south of Prague, and is the easiest daytrip you can make from the city. The castle, impressively draped over a hillside with the massive 60-metre Great Tower dominating the lower Marian Tower and Imperial Palace, was built in 1348 by the Czech King and Roman Emperor Charles IV as a safe place to keep the royal treasures, including the priceless collection of holy relics and Roman Empire coronation jewels. The building was finished in 1365 with the consecration of the Chapel of the Holy Cross. The castle was used to hide the Czech coronation jewels during the Hussite wars. The building has changed considerably over the ages, undergoing reconstructions in late Gothic style around 1480, in Renaissance style in the 16th century, and finally in neo-Gothic style in the 19th century. Inside, two different guided tours of the interiors are available. Tour 1 takes you though the Imperial Palace and the lower floors of the Marian Tower. Tour 2 can only be joined if booked well in advance, with just 12 visitors at a time allowed in. This tour includes the Marian and Great towers, the Church of Our Lady, the sacristy, picture gallery, and library. The highlight of the tour is the newly renovated Chapel of the Holy Cross, a spectacular place of worship that is home to a collection of 129 panel paintings and 14th century wall paintings. Karlštejn Castle is open 09:00-18:00 in August, 09:00-17:00 in September, closed on Mondays and between 12:00-12:30. For more information and bookings, call 311 68 16 17 or visit www.hradkarlstejn.cz. Trains depart from Prague Hlavní nádraží (main) station at least every hour (at 25 minutes past the hour), and return twice an hour from Karlštejn station (at 27 and 57 minutes past the hour). Tickets cost 46Kč. From the station it’s a 30-minute walk through the tourist-tat-infested village and up the hill to the castle, or you can take a horse-drawn carriage up. Further on the same line as Karlštejn is Pilsen (or Plzen), home to Pilsner Urquell, the first golden lager in the world. Since 1842, the brewery has been keeping beer drinkers happy and today you can join a tour (daily at 12:30 & 14:00, 120Kč) and sample some unfiltered and unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell from the underground sandstone tunnels. Pilsen also has a zoo, one of the largest town squares in the country as well as one of the highest towers on St. Bartolomew’s plus a brewery museum. Pilsen lies 114km south west of Prague and trains from Prague Hlavní nádraží run regularly and take about 1hr 40mins. A return ticket costs 140Kč.
or you can stay on the red promenade path that stays high up, passing several spectacular viewpoints. The yellow trail passes a poignant memorial for all Czech climbers who died on mountains around the world. You can walk a full circuit in under two hours. At the end of the red trail, the dainty Hrubá Skála chateau (www.hrubaskala.cz, tel. 481 65 91 11) sits atop a rock dramatically overlooking the valley. The smaller Prachovské skály area (admission 50Kč) has been a protected tourist attraction since 1933, and is four kilometres from Jičín. A dense network of paths connects the narrow clefts and viewpoints; delightful for young and old alike to scramble around. The best way to reach the Český ráj by public transport is to take a bus or train to Turnov; the trip costs about 90Kč and takes up to 2hrs. Several buses a day connect Prague’s Černý Most bus station to Jičín (1hr 20min, 85Kč). Within the area, the seasonal bus link between Turnov and Jičín allows you to make a round trip visiting both areas. Note that renting a small car from a rental company such as Sixti (www.sixti.com) is almost as cheap as taking the bus. For more information, route descriptions and seasonal bus timetables, see www.cesky-raj.info/en.
Restaurants
Nightlife
Sightseeing
Events
ČESKÝ KRUMLOV August - September 2007
Kutná Hora Just 77km east of Prague lies beautiful Kutná Hora; eight trains trundle to and fro every day, costing 98Kč and taking about one hour. The 10:01 departure from Hlavní nádraží is a useful one (arr. 11:06), allowing a relaxed banter around town, lunch and dinner in time for the 19:02 or 21:02 services back to Prague (arr. 20:01 and 22:01). The bus from the station into town passes the infamous ossuary (bone chapel) at Sedlec, which you can walk to from the station; keep an eye out for the appropriately placed Phillip Morris cigarette factory. You’d be hard pressed to miss the towering spires and hysterical English handout to St. Barbara’s Cathedral. Also explore the Alchemy Museum. Český Krumlov Perhaps the most worthwhile trip out of Prague is to romantic Český Krumlov, 170km southwards. Although a trip can be done in a day, take your time and explore this delightful destination, perhaps taking in České Budějovice on the way out or back. České Budějovice, home of Budvar beer, is well worth a visit. Fourteen trains per day make it there and back, costing 204Kč and taking 2hrs 30mins. Trains from Prague Hlavní nádraží depart irregularly in the morning, hourly in the afternoon. Keep turning the pages to see what Český Krumlov has on offer.
Český ráj For a breath of fresh air, head 100km north of Prague to beautiful Český ráj (Bohemian Paradise). Here, wind and water have eroded the soft yellow sandstone into massive pillars up to 60 metres high named ‘rock towns’. The whole area is cloaked in forest and dotted with spectacular castles. The sandstone formations are found in two main concentrations, the Hruboskalsko (‘fat rock’) area just south of Turnov, and the Prachovské skály (‘dusty rocks’) area, more to the east near Jičín. The Hruboskalsko area is four kilometres from Turnov and you can walk from the centre of town to the rocks in about an hour. After passing the 13th century Valdštejn castle with its pretty bridge you can choose to follow the yellow or blue trails and wander up and down the steps and trails between the 400 rock towers,
Prague In Your Pocket
Cafés
Culture Explore this UNESCO World Heritage site
(In)Action To paddle or to float?
N°2 www.inyourpocket.com
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ČESKÝ KRUMLOV This beautiful medieval city almost encircled by the meandering Vltava River hasn’t managed to escape the modern travails of 21st century tourism. Historical facades are festooned with nick-nacks nobody needs, sidewalk cafés hawk takeaway cocktails to thirsty tourists on the fly and drenched rafters gallivant around in Speedos. Yet despite this, Český Krumlov has retained its dignity. One of Europe’s largest castles watches over its citizens from its lofty hilltop perch flaunting its bizarre bell tower so colourful it’s almost garish. Ancient oak balconies hang precariously from centuries old townhouses supporting the weight of their inhabitants who prefer the relative seclusion of the second floor to the manic streets below. Finally, the ancient lifeblood of the city, the Vltava, flows past its borders bringing with it commerce, prosperity and scenic vistas much as it did years ago.
Events National Geographic: Famous Expeditions of the 20th Century Until 30 Nov From the Mudmen of Goroka to massive manta rays, the superlative photography that exemplifies National Geographic is an exhibition not to miss. A visual feast from across the globe as well as photographic profiles of Czech explorers Hanzelka and Zikmund and photo of Český Krumlov by Libor Sváček. Admission 60/40Kč. Where? Latrán 46, 1st Courtyard of the castle. Open 10:00 - 17:00. The Český Krumlov International Music Festival presents symphonies, philharmonics, blues and ballet in this, its fourteenth year of festivities, which runs 20 July to 25 Aug (www.festivalkrumlov.cz) and is followed by another annual event, Jazz at Summer’s End from 5 - 8 Sept (www.jazzkrumlov.cz).
ČESKÝ KRUMLOV Getting there
Where to stay
Český Krumlov is easily accessible from Prague by train or bus. The train station is located on the outskirts of town, roughly a 25-minute walk from the Old Town although a local bus from the Špičák stop, just across the Latrán bridge on the north of the town, cuts the walk down to a couple of minutes. Buses arrive closer to the city centre, just a short walk past the petrol station and onto Horní.
Prices rise for the summer and for festivals, when you should also always book in advance. If you are willing to risk it, almost every house and shop in town has at least one private room (zimmer in German, the more common foreign language here) occupying the upstairs. Most pensions have a restaurant (and vice versa) and the most common method of cooking here is the open fire. Most historical buildings do not have a lift, and none are allowed A/C.
By train (200km, approx. 207Kč) Hlavní nádrazí - Český Krumlov dep. 06:17 arr. 09:51 Český Krumlov - Hlavní nádrazí dep. 18:07 arr. 21:54 This direct service only runs in the summer season but take a train to Ceské Budejovice for connections to Český Krumlov (by bus or train). By bus (172km, approx. 160Kč) Praha, Florenc - Český Krumlov dep. 08:15 arr. 11:30 Praha, Florenc - Český Krumlov dep. 10:15 arr. 13:30 Praha, Roztyly - Český Krumlov dep. 15:25 arr. 18:50 Český Krumlov - Praha, Roztyly dep. 05:20 arr. 08:25 ČK - Praha, Smíchovské nádrazí dep. 12:35 arr. 15:35 ČK - Praha, Smíchovské nádrazí dep. 17:30 arr. 20:15 Shuttle bus is a relatively new aspect of travel to and from Linz, Austria primarily. Hostel 99 (www.hostel99. com, tel. 721 75 07 86) runs a daily service at 11:00 and ShuttleLobo (www.shuttlelobo.cz, tel. 380 71 31 53) runs a shuttle at 09:00, 11:00 and 14:00 daily. Both operators charge 450Kč and take about 90 mins. And if you need a taxi in town, try Krumlov Taxi (tel. 380 71 27 12, www.taxi-krumlov.cz). Hooray, Let’s Hurry to Krumlov 31 Aug - 8 Sept For one week, the traditional festival of Folk & Country music takes place in the town square, Náměstí Svornosti featuring the winners of the country-wide finals of the Porta competition as well as stars of the genres. Admission free and see www.1ck.cz for more information. Also, 8 - 9 Sept (www.ckrumlov.cz/disabled) welcomes Disability Day, or to put it more aptly, two days without obstacles. Various volunteers will make as many sights in the castle, around town and within museums, as accessible as possible for the disabled. The Czech patron saint, St. Wenceslas, celebrates his feast day on 28 Sep and Český Krumlov hosts their own celebrations in his honour on 28 - 30 Sept in the town square and various museums and galleries. 8 - 14 Oct sees the 33rd year of the International Film Festival on the Environment and Natural and Cultural Heritage EKOFILM 2007 festival. See www.ekofilm.cz for further information. There’s more to this town than rafting, architecture and beer so hop on a bus for the sights and sounds on offer in beautiful Český Krumlov. For more information and further details, go to www. ckrumlov.cz/uk.
Český Krumlov In Your Pocket
Hotels Hotel Belarie Dlouhá 69, tel. 380 71 12 14, fax 380 71 18 50, info@belarie.cz, www.belarie.cz. Five rooms bedecked in the grand Ludvik XIV style, which have lovely original wooden ceilings and some stunning views. Q5 rooms (singles 1480 - 1980Kč, doubles 1980 - 2640Kč, triples 2550 - 3410Kč, quads 3150 - 4180Kč, extra bed 500Kč). AK hhh
Hotel Na Louži Kájovská 66, tel./fax 380 71 12 80, hotel@nalouzi.cz, www.nalouzi.cz. Identikit rooms although the attic room is more stylish and offers a glimpse of original oak beams and the like. Centrally located in a medieval building on one of Old Town’s busiest shopping streets. Q11 rooms (4 doubles 1350Kč, 3 triples 1700Kč, 4 quads 2300Kč). AK Švamberský dům Soukenická 35, tel. 380 71 13 42, info@svamberskydum.cz, www.svamberskydum.cz. A beautifully restored house dating to the Middle Ages with Gothic elements and medieval frescoes on the facade. It holds 6 rooms, four doubles on the first floor with a terrace and views of the castle, while the lovely attic space holds two apartments. Rooms are simple but spacious with wooden furniture and some have a bathtub. It also has an excellent restaurant with cellar and terrace. Q6 rooms (4 doubles 1600Kč, 2 suites 1900Kč, extra bed 500Kč). IBK
Villa Conti Nové Město 25, tel. 380 71 50 94, fax 380 71 29 06, www.villaconti.cz. An opulently restored 16th century house in a charming, quiet area of town, backing onto the lovely brewery gardens. Family run and friendly, rooms have satellite TV, a CD player and minibar plus frills in the Romantic-esque rooms with four-poster beds. Q7 rooms (6 doubles 2000Kč, 1 suite 2500Kč). R hhh
Pension Jiřina Kozáková Zámecké Schody 10, tel. 380 71 23 35, fax 380 71 12 58, jirina.ubytovani@worldonline.cz, www.ubytovani-kozakova.cz. Three small and tidy rooms are available above a souvenir shop right on the castle steps. Private bathrooms and cable TV come standard, but of particular interest are the showers with massage jets to pummel your aching, castle-taming muscles and joints. More than adequate and cheap. Q5 rooms (1 single 500 - 600Kč, 3 doubles 800 - 900Kč, 1 triple 1000 - 1200Kč). A Pension Lobo Latrán 73, tel./fax 380 71 31 53, tel. 777 63 73 74, pensionlobo@cmail.cz, www.pensionlobo. cz. This secluded pension offers rooms decorated in bright pastels. Bleached pinewood furniture, TV and bathroom with shower all come as standard. You can also wash your clothes at its laundry (09:00 - 20:00). Q9 rooms (5 doubles 1000 - 1100Kč, 4 triples 1400Kč). A
Pension U Václava Nové Město 25, tel. 380 71 50 94, uvaclava@quick.cz, www.uvaclava.cz. This classy little hotel located on a quiet side street off of the main pedestrian drag offers beautiful rooms with luxurious four-poster canopy beds, antique furniture, hardwood floors, satellite TV, minibar, CD player and huge bathrooms with bidets. The staff speaks several foreign languages. Q (singles 2000 - 2400Kč, 7 doubles 2000 - 2400Kč). AK
Pension ve věži Pivovarská 28, tel. 380 71 17 42/721 52 30 30. Stay as close to the Eggenberg Brewery as possible and in a small tower, which of course produces unusually curved rooms. Each floor holds two doubles and shares one bathroom. Full of character rather than luxury. Q4 rooms (4 doubles 1200Kč). Penzion U Slunce & Thallerův Dům nám. Svornosti 2, tel. 380 70 46 21, fax 380 70 46 19, www.ckrumlov.cz. Two central, clean, light and spacious pensions operated by the efficient people at Infocentrum tourist office. U Slunce on the main square has three doubles and an apartment for up to 4 people, with TV and private bathrooms (700 - 1,000Kč). Thallerův Dům has 7 apartments with kitchenettes, TV and internet (800 - 1,200Kč). Q A Ubytování Rybářská Rybářská 1, tel. 380 71 55 29, anna. salonova@post.cz, www.volny.cz/ubytovanirybarska. Find U Draka café downstairs and rooms in a private historical house alongside the Vltava. The balcony here has to be one of the best spots on the river. Q4 rooms (4 doubles 900 - 1100Kč). B
Pensions Castle View Apartments Šatlavská 140, tel. 731 10 86 77, info@castleview.cz, www.castleview.cz. Not all the apartments have castle views but one has a patio and they all have comfortable furnishings, extra beds, unique layouts, heated bathroom floors, a kitchenette, free internet access and use of an mp3 player. Apartments will comfortably fit 2 or 4, with up to 6 in some. A lovely, friendly and central spot to lay your head. Q7 rooms (7 apartments 1800 - 5400Kč, extra bed 500Kč). PTARL
Pension Danny Latrán 72, tel. 380 71 27 10/608 03 21 95, pensiondanny@tiscali.cz, www.pensiondanny.cz. A family run pension with some rooms small and functional and others loaded with historical charm. Kettle, hair drier and games available. The downstairs restaurant, U Králo Jiřího (10:00 - 22:00) is a cheap and cheerful local haunt. Q (doubles 790 - 1190Kč, triples 1240 - 1490Kč, quads 1490 - 1790Kč, extra bed 250 - 300Kč, pet 100Kč, just test 201 - 231Kč). 6K
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ČESKÝ KRUMLOV Hostels Hostel 99 Věžní 99, tel. 380 71 28 12/775 27 62 53, hostel99@hotmail.com, www.hostel99.com. Realtively cheap, friendly and a lively place to stay and hang. The attic dorms are fresh and have no bunks, or choose a comfortable double or even Renaissance style private suites. The kitchen and BBQ pit will appeal to the chef in you or head to their good restaurant and bar. The courtyard is a great place to mingle with the locals and transients while taking in the lovely view and sucking down a brew - free keg of local Eggenberg pivo on Wednesdays. They also offer good rafting rates with a native English speaker for a guide. Q Dorm beds from 250 - 350Kč.
Hostel Ryba Rybářská 5, tel. 380 71 18 01/606 37 03 53. Private house partly converted into functional dorms (one with 7 beds, one with 4) plus one double room. Bathroom facilities are somewhat basic so it might be better to stay here with your mates, rather than strangers. Cheap and beautifully located however. Q 250Kč per bed.
Krumlov House Hostel Rooseveltova 68, tel. 380 71 19 35/728 28 79 19, info@krumlovhostel.com, www. krumlovhostel.com. Small, welcoming and full of freebies (tea, coffee, ice skates, tubes), exactly as a hostel should be. Get an uncrowded bed in this 24 guest maximum hostel with book swap, kitchen, games, guitars, movies, party info and informative and artistic map. Q7 rooms (3 doubles 300 - 400Kč, triples 300 - 375Kč, 1 quad 250 - 375Kč, 2 apartments 400 - 450Kč, 1 dorm beds 250 - 375Kč).
Skippy Hostel Plešivecká 123, tel. 380 72 83 80, hostelskippy@hotmail.com, www.skippy.wz.cz. Staying here feels like a get away from your get away. In addition to dorms, there is a single and a rather romantic double room for those who desire privacy. The wooden balcony is a great place to soak up some rays while checking out the canoers. The owner, Skippy, can be seen strumming her guitar while her dogs parade around. There’s also a small kitchen for preparing food. Make sure to duck when walking through doorways for all you taller folk. Q Beds from 200Kč.
ČESKÝ KRUMLOV Travellers’ Hostel Soukenická 40, tel./fax 380 71 13
Krčma U Dwau Maryí Parkán 104, tel. 380 71 72
45, krumlov@travellers.cz, www.travellers.cz. Beds are clean and the atmosphere is definitely suitable for backpackers looking to meet new people over many beers. The cool top-floor apartment is worth the splurge. popular bar, laundry service, internet access, game room and communal kitchen available although the restaurant is worth a look. U Šneka Hostel has merged with Travellers now and the lobby for both is here. Q 101 beds (300 -380Kč/person with shared facilities, doubles and apartment 450 - 600Kč). RK
28. Classic Czech (Bohemian) cuisine - large plates of meat, cabbage and dumplings - plus some recipes and ingredients that have otherwise been consigned to history. Enjoy hearty meals with millet, buckwheat and barley or dip into their daisy soup. A medieval house with an appropriate menu and friendly service in a lovely setting. Sup some mead... QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. IB
U Šneka Panská 19, tel. 380 71 13 45/731 56 41 44, www.travellers.cz. The Snail offers one of the funkiest rooms we’ve ever seen which includes an antique wooden ceiling high above, a working record player with a generous selection of vinyl from Eddy Grant to Bon Jovi and a bathtub and toilet in the corner hidden by curtains. Dorms aren’t as interesting but are clean and comfortable. With an internet café, and the Rock Bar downstairs is one of the most reliable spots to get a late night beer. Reception is at the Traveller’s Hostel across the street. Q Dorm 300Kč/person. Double 450Kč. RK
Where to eat Restaurants Barbora Široká 89, tel. 380 71 27 91, www.hotelbarbora.cz. Good for a little romance and great food, this upmarket restaurant with flagstone floors and a charming summer terrace hovering over a tributary of the Vltava offers homemade pastas and sausages as well as Czech favourites, steaks and fish dishes named after local royalty. The view of the river and the castle looming high above is enough reason to pay a visit. The hotel has 4* and 2* sections. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 500Kč). AB
Café Retro Hradební 60, tel. 380 72 79 99, www.pizzakrumlov.cz. Locals’ favourite and the town’s most child-oriented location. Cocktails join pizza and pasta and a fairly good wine list in the restaurant and terrace, where families sit while the kids play in the superb adventure playground right alongside (but walled) the river. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (80 - 150Kč). TBS
Hospoda 99 Věžní 99, tel. 380 71 38 13. Whether you’re staying at the adjacent hostel or not, Hospoda 99 makes an excellent spot to sit, relax, drink and enjoy some of the best Czech and American-inspired dishes in town. Join the locals and tourists on the lovely terrace or inside with a lounge, good food, good beer and good service... and all at reasonable prices. The kitchen closes at 23:00 but the bar does not... QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. IEB Krčma Barbakán Horní 26, tel. 380 71 26 79, www. krcmabarbakan.cz. Perched high above the river in the original fortifications of the city is Barbakán. Its medieval soul hasn’t been exorcised yet as young maidens in costumes scamper about with trays of golden beers and grilled meats under vaulted ceilings or out on the expansive summer terrace overlooking the valley. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (Winter hours 15:00 - 24:00). (100 - 300Kč). B
Lubor Mrázek
Český Krumlov In Your Pocket
Krčma u Šatleska Horní 157, tel. 380 71 33 44. This medieval alcove is the home of the bread bowl onion soup in these parts. Its vaulted ceiling is blackened by the smoke emanating from the wrought iron grill, the source of all of its dishes and, with the exception of a few candles, its only source of illumination. A group of musicians entertain in the evening and woo tourists into submission with their siren’s song. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 300Kč). IEB
Kristínka Dlouhá 94, tel. 380 71 15 33/608 90 20 80. With a terrace on the mill stream of the Vltava and excellent Czech dishes, this restaurant - with attached pension of rooms off a lovely courtyard - is quiet, friendly and beautifully located. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (150 - 400Kč). Laibon Parkán 105, tel. 728 67 66 54, www.laibon.cz. A vegeatrian paradise in this paradise of a town. Sit inside or out for an huge though sadly similarly tasting variety of veggie delights of lentils, couscous, tofu, etc. prepared with international leanings... Indian, Middle Eastern, Californian, Italian, with salads and desserts too.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150Kč). T6UGB
Pivnice at the Old Inn Náměstí Svornosti 12, tel. 380 77 25 00, www.hoteloldinn.cz. As you descend deeper and deeper, the odour of smoke invades you nostrils. But it’s not fire or brimstone of the biblical sense, rather the sweet smell of grilled meat. Pig, steer and chicken regularly roast over the coals in this 13th century beer hall beneath Old Town Square. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. (100 - 300Kč). A
Pizzeria Nonna Gina Latrán 52 (Klášterní ul.), tel. 380 71 71 87. Authentic Italian cuisine is this restaurant which is especially lovely in summer with its tucked away terrace. They have rooms upstairs too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. B Rybářská bašta Jakuba Krčína Kájovská 54, tel. 777 77 62 56. Fairly dark interior but it does have a non-smoking section and there is efficient service on the summer terrace. Limited fresh and sea water fish specials to match a limited but equally as tasty wine menu. Jakuba Krčína was a Rosenberg expert water manager. Check out the original 16th century frescoes. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (120 - 500Kč). GB Švejk Latrán 12. The Good Soldier Švejk has sadly had his name attached to some terribly tourist places but this is a good local hangout with typical Czech fare and Gambrinus at excellent prices within its wooden walls. Entry is from the castle steps. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00. (70 - 250Kč).
U Bejka Linecká 41. Great food with enormous portions inside the atmospheric space or on the terrace with view to St. Vitus church and with live music most nights. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. EB
Cafés & Tea rooms Café Van Gogh Masná 130. Colourful café with mellow mood and various board games on offer in its wooden and stone interior littered with eclectic furniture and folk. Pizza and snacks help sop the full bar and good coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Deli 99 Věžní 99. From the Hospoda/Hostel empire comes this lovely café with fresh baked bread, delicious sandwich combos, bagels and pastries to sate small hungers. Illy coffee available to go as well as to savour in the comfortable room with excellent photos and newspapers. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. GSW
Want some history? Český Krumlov is a stunningly well-preserved medieval town picturesquely nestled in tight meanders of the Vltava River as it wends its way through the Czech Republic’s largest protected area, the Šumava National Park. Český Krumlov lies in southern Bohemia about 180km south of Prague and close to the Budvar-producing city of České Budějovice. Krumlov is derived from the German Krumme Aue meaning ‘crooked meadow’ while Český simply means Czech (or Bohemian) and there is a city named Moravský Krumlov, in Moravia (or Silesia). Český Krumlov was settled in the 13th century and remains renowned primarily for fine architecture and Krumlov Castle, the second largest in the country after the Hradčany castle complex in Prague. Her unrivalled beauty and preserved Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements led to the old town being deemed an Historical Urban Reservation in 1963 and in 1992, UNESCO declared ČK a World Heritage Site. However, ČK isn’t just an open air museum; she also provides numerous cultural and sporting activities including some stunning day trips and hours spent messing about on the river. Český Krumlov was first mentioned in a letter in 1253, but legend states the Přemyslovci slaughtered a rival family and gave the town and castle to relatives, the Witigonen (or Vítkovci in Czech), the first Lords of Krumlov, way back in 995. From 1302 the House of Rosenberg owned the town and castle, having taken their name from nearby Rožmberk castle where they also lived. At this time, the Latrán, the pedestrianised old town of today, was haphazardly laid out below the castle in a horseshoe bend in the river and until 1555 Krumlov consisted of two independent towns – Latrán and Krumlov, which was situated on the farther side of the river and around today’s old town square. The Vltava has long been a natural transportation route and towns on these trade routes rise and fall in importance with time and alternate paths. The Bavarian salt trade route in the 16th century, its profitability resulted in it being named Zlatá (golden), created important towns on its path, but in 1706, another salt trade route, named Linz connected Austrian countries and Bohemia and ČK became the salt store. Economic stagnation followed the Thirty Year War (1618 - 1648) when the town was garrisoned by Imperial troops, leading to invasion by Swedish troops in 1648. In 1602 Emperor Rudolf II bought Krumau and it became another centre for alchemy then in 1622 Ferdinand II gave Krumau to the House of Eggenberg who ruled until 1719, when the House of Schwarzenberg took over (and remained owners until war changed everything in 1945). By 1919 there were some 7,300 Germans and 1,300 Czechs living in the town. After WWI, Krumau lay within the Republic of German Austria until November 1918 when Czech troops occupied the town and it remained in Czechoslovakia until 1938 when Nazi Germany annexed the town and incorporated it into the Sudetenland. Her German inhabitants were expelled in 1945 as part of the controversial Beneš Decrees and Český Krumlov was restored to Czechoslovakia. During the communist era, the town fell into disrepair but since 1989’s Velvet Revolution and tourist influx, the superb architecture has been lovingly and beautifully restored.
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ČESKÝ KRUMLOV State Castle & Chateau of Český Krumlov The tall, easily defended rock cliffs jutting over the Vltava was populated long before the oldest parts of today’s castle and church were founded. The first settlement of the castle promontory dates back to the Bronze Age but the Gothic origins of the castle date to 1250 and the first Lords of Krumlov, the Witigonens or Víteks, who settled the lower, tower side. In 1302, the Rosenbergs inherited the castle and kept it as their seat. Their three centuries of rule were golden times for the town and the castle was slowly converted into a superb Renaissance residence with the newer upper castle built along with the connecting bridge - aristocrats it seems do not like to be at the whim of the weather. The Eggenberg family was then given the castle by Ferdinand II who had bought the dominion in 1602 but the subsequent tribulations of the Thirty Year War regressed the area culturally and economically although the castle was converted again, this time into a Baroque seat. In 1719 the castle was inherited by the Schwarzenbergs who initially kept the social and artistic elements of Viennese life in the castle, but the 19th and 20th centuries saw the castle stagnate as it was no longer inhabited. The interior is amazingly intact and can be viewed on a guided tour in a variety of languages. The history of bear-keeping at Český Krumlov Castle goes back to the 16th century, the era of the last Rosenbergs and bears have been kept in the moat since 1707. The castle area, one of the largest in Europe, comprises forty buildings and palaces situated around five courtyards and a park spanning eleven hectares. The whole complex was recorded in the UNESCO List of World Cultural and Natural Heritage in 1992. The Schwarzenbergs (1719 - 1947) left the perfectly preserved Baroque Theatre (Zámecké divadlo) with its priceless collection of original scenery, costumes, props and still functional machinery. This theatre is a monument so valuable that the only one comparable to it in the world is Sweden’s Drottningholm theatre from 1766. Th e 54.5m G othic/Renaissance Castle Tower (Zámecká vez) rises six stories above the castle courtyards and provides a stunning view of this beautiful town – if you can manage the 162 steps to the viewing platform. The Castle Gardens (Zámecká zahrada) are some of the largest in Central Europe and have, over the years been fashioned from the Baroque to the Rococo, then Classicist and finally into an English garden in the 19th century. Elements of all styles remain and the gardens are dominated by the Rococo Bellaria summerhouse and cascading fountain. The 17th century Baroque gardens form the largest part of the entire castle complex. The castle gardens and courtyards can be explored for free. The revolving auditorium invokes a magical time of amphitheatres, where the night sky and suberb surroundings (in this case the castle gardens and Rococo summer house) seem to amplify the sounds of Mozart, Shakespeare and Dvořák to name a few. The Lapidarium contains an exhibition of original Baroque statues from around the castle.
Český Krumlov In Your Pocket
ČESKÝ KRUMLOV Divadelní kavarná Ántré Horní 2, tel. 603 33 63 20, w w w.klubantre.cz. Small café with full bar and limited menu (pancakes and a few grilled meals) in the city theatre. The lovely terrace, high above the river and old town is oddly but delightfully deserted. Bernard beer 22Kč. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (70 - 125Kč). EGB Dobrá čajovna Latrán 54, tel. 777 65 47 44, www. tea.cz. This fantastic tea house and shop provides delicious teas from all over the world as well as a comfortable place - just below the castle - in which to enjoy them. Dobrá čajovna means good tea, and it is... good enough to be all over the country and in Bratislava. Somewhat pricey though. Snacks and small, mostly veggie, meals are available. Q Open 13:00 - 22:00.
Zapa Bar Latrán 15, tel. 380 71 25 59. Cocktails and bottled beer in booths upstairs while the cellar has a well of river water as its centrepiece. The building has some of the few remaining Gothic frescoes inside and was home to Gabriel de Blonde, a Dutch Renaissance painter whose works are in the I and IV castle courtyards. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00.
What to see The sublimley beautiful jewel that is Český Krumlov is dominated by two landmarks: the castle complex pinpointed by its 16th century cylindrical tower and the gothic Church of St. Vitus. One of the most rewarding aspects of a visit to ČK is wandering the historical old town area of Latrán and partaking of the town’s myriad cultural attractions. The summer months do tend to block the narrow streets of town with tourists however, but summer also allows for some river antics...
U dvou Andělů Panská 17, tel. 602 20 40 44. The Two Angels offers heavenly Illy coffee, huge sandwiches for just 40Kč, fresh medovník cake, plus full bar and other snacks in their photographic menu. Join the locals at this tiny café in the centre of town. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. B
By night
Activities Ice Hockey/Summer Cinema Chvalsinská 110, tel. 380 71 31 73. The local team, HC Slavoj Český Krumlov founded in 1945, play here in the winter. If you are here in the summer, opposite the stadium is the outdoor summer cinema (kino) which shows films at 21:30 on most Wed, Fri & Sat. Tickets 80Kč.
Babylon Rybářská 6. As close to perfect as we found… historical building, open fire inside for the grilling of meat and for winter warmth and a summer terrace inches from the river. Cheap beer, good food and great times. Sit, relax and watch the frantic people go by. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. IBK
Gorilla Rybářská 5. Late night drinking with a dedicated crowd, pool and foosball tables and jukebox. Young back rooms, older at the bar. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00.
Horor Bar Masná 129, tel. 728 68 27 24. This place has no sign but look for the dwarf skeleton outside and enter at your own risk - this is truly a bar of horrors. The stone stairway is lined with red candles, skeletons hang suspended from the ceiling and a spinning glass showcase displays a variety of absinth. In the back room is a jukebox and an out of tune piano. If you warm-up to the barman, he’ll grab his flashlight and show you the human teeth embedded in the ceiling above. Simple fare here; beans and sausages a.k.a. fingers of Dracula. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. (50Kč - 80Kč). EK
Hospoda U Baby Rooseveltova 68, tel. 775 98 35 77. Local favourite next to the Krumlov House Hostel full of great beer, lovely terrace, impromptu jams and filling Czech dishes to soak up all the beer. Open late for raucous times. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. BK
La Bohéme Soukenická 34, tel. 380 71 32 84. With nearly 300 mixed drinks listed on its menu, this cosy bar has earned its bragging rights in the cocktail arena, although the choice of music leaves much to be desired. Relax on comfortable leather chairs with a vague plantation vibe on two floors and get a discount from 17:00 - 18:30. Popular with local ladies avoiding beer drinkers. Q Open 15:00 - 02:00. AB Restaurace Cikánská jizba Dlouhá 31, tel. 380 71 75 85. The tiny Gypsy Room may not seem like much during the day, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find a seat here in the evening when the Roma come to perform their music. Passers-by often hover outside for a glimpse of the talented minstrels serenading women and encouraging men to drink. Come early for Roma cuisine and you may not leave till long past the witching hour. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00. EK
Kino J&K Špičák, tel. 380 71 18 92. Shows at 18:30 except 18:00 on Saturday and closed Sunday. Listings can be found at Infocentrum. Slupenec Horseback Riding Club Slupenec 1, tel. 380 71 10 52/723 83 24 59, www.jk-slupenec.cz. Indoor lessons, trail riding and day or more long trips in the beautiful countryside around Český Krumlov. Prices begin at 250Kč per hour. The club is 1.5km from the town centre and has a hospoda on site offering the usual fare (closed Mondays). Q TBK
Sights Krumlov Castle, tel. 380 70 47 21, www.castle. ckrumlov.cz. The Czech Republic’s second largest castle was first mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1253 as the seat of the Vítek family, but it didn’t take on its Renaissance and Baroque appearance until much later under the Rosenbergs and Eggenbergs. The interior is amazingly intact and can be viewed on two guided tours and in a variety of languages. If you’d like to save a few crowns, you can walk through the courtyards and impressive gardens free of charge. The 54.5m tall tower is worth the small entrance fee if you don’t mind climbing 162 steps to the viewing platform and there is a spectacular view of the town from the 5th courtyard. Upon entering the castle don’t forget to take a peak into the moat which is home to sleepy bears.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Guided tour of castle 160Kč, guided tour of theatre 180Kč, tower 35Kč, lapidarium 20Kč. Ticket office is in the 2nd courtyard.
New Year and summer concerts. There is no entrance fee, but the clergy urge you to refrain from visiting during services. The small building next door with Renaissance and almost Moorish elements was a parish school from the 14th century and has been a music school since 1780... the musical tradition in Český Krumlov is a long one and continues to this day.
Latrán The settlement adjacent to the castle complex is called Latrán, from the Latin latus meaning ‘side.’ This old town with its winding cobbled alleys and admired Gothic and Renaissance houses, galleries, shops and pubs, restaurants and hotels was placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1992. The Eggenberg brewery and gardens are located here. Egon Schiele Art Centrum Široká 70-72, tel. 380 70 40 11, www.schieleartcentrum.cz. Like so many other famous artists, Mr. Schiele (1890 - 1918) was only appreciated after his death - at least in this town. The story goes that this Viennese artist (much more talented than contemporary Schickelgruber) set up shop in this little town (where his mother was born) in 1911 and shocked its inhabitants with his Bohemian lifestyle and ability to convince local maidens (and men) to pose in the nude. After being boycotted - nobody greeted him and children were forbidden to visit him - he soon left town although he did return to Český Krumlov almost every year until his premature death and now his works are proudly displayed in this cultural centre that bears his name. Exhibitions this year include, for the first time in the Czech Republic, an exhibition of work from Keith Haring loaned by the Keith Haring Foundation in New York. Also, abstract paintings from contemporary artist Petr Kvíčala (b. 1960), an installation on the facade of the gallery entitled Krumlov’s Madonna by Veronika Bromová (b. 1966, Praha) and a group exhibition entitled Young Artists from New York featuring Midori Harima, Cassandra C. Jones, Vadis Turner, Annysa Ng and Peter Maslow. There is also a lovely café on site. The building, on the town’s widest street, was home to the town brewery from 1608 (Latrán was a separate town with its own brewery) until WWII. Renovations were made in 1993. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120Kč. K
Regional Museum of National History (Regionální muzeum) Horní 152, tel. 380 71 16 74, www.muzeum. ckrumlov.cz. An eclectic collection of relics, maps, furniture, old paintings and archaeological artefacts can be found here on three floors. Chain mail, wooden depictions of tortured saints and an impressive ceramic scale model of the town as well as a reconstituted apothecary, folk costumes and 19th century farming equipment are all available for your perusal. The building once housed a short-lived Jesuit Seminary (1650 - 1652), was the first Baroque building in town and was established as a museum in 1946. Don’t miss the stunning views from its lofty position. Q Open May to Sept 10:00 - 17:00; July & Aug 10:00 - 18:00; Mar to Apr & Oct to Dec 09:00 - 16:00, Sat & Sun 13:00 - 16:00. Admission 50/25Kč. Closed Mondays.
Eggenberg Brewery Latrán 27, tel. 380 71 14 26, St. Vitus Church After you’ve taken in the castle which dominates the town, you’ll probably notice the thin spire of St. Vitus Church. Built on the same ground as a 14th century church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, it wasn’t completed until nearly 40 years had passed, saving it from potential destruction during the Hussite wars. All that remains from this church is the mosaic above the door. The neo-Gothic spire wasn’t added until the 19th century replacing the original Baroque dome. Inside, the altar (1863) is typically Baroque and depicts St. Vitus and the Virgin Mary and is adorned with the Eggenberg and Schwarzenberg coat of arms. The side chapels were added in the 19th century. The Gothic organ dating to the 1500s is currently under repair and there is a small Baroque replacement. In addition to religious services, the church is used for
www.eggenberg.cz. Ceský Krumlov was granted a charter to brew beer and in 1560, a new town brewery was built to supply demand. In 1622 the Eggenberg family gained control of Krumlov and between 1625 & 1630, they relocated the brewery to where it is today. The next ruling family, the Schwarzenbergs, baroqued the building from 1719 and in 1882, the first steam equipment was installed. Pivovar Eggenberg hosts guided tours and beer tasting of their light and dark lagers, and do experiment with the yesty and unfiltered beer. Tours at 11:00 only. Admission 100Kč, with two beers 130Kč, with all you can eat and drink 480Kč. There is a pivnice on the premises in what was the ice store of old where today you can enjoy Czech food (open 11:00 - 22:00) and of course Eggenberg beer. Q IBK
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ČESKÝ KRUMLOV Day tripping Český Krumlov is close to the Šumava National Park, the Czech Republic’s largest national park at 70,000 hectares. These mountains lie along the border with Austria and Germany and offer a range of natural habitats - peat bogs, Alpine meadows, primeval forests, lakes, and rivers. The area is popular with walkers, cyclists, and canoeists on the Vltava plus skiers come winter. See www.npsumava.cz for further information. Some other day trips are listed below… Rožmberk Castle (Hrad Rožmberk) Rožmberk nad Vltavou, tel. 380 74 98 38, www. hrad-rozmberk.cz. Rožmberk Castle is perched upon a rocky outcrop above the Vltava 24km (40 mins by bus) from Český Krumlov. Reservations are recommended for tours that include various legends and ghosts, an armoury, art gallery and various collections, as well as the magnificent castle and two-storey chateau. Explanation sheets in 12 languages are available free of charge. Admission 140/80Kč, grand tour 200/150Kč, torture room 20/15Kč. Open June to Aug 09:00 - 17:15. Closed Mondays. Vyšší Brod Monastery (Klášter Vyšší Brod) Vyšší Brod, tel. 380 74 66 74, www.vyssibrod.cz/klaster. Vyšší Brod Cistercian Monastery, one of the largest monastery complexes in Bohemia, was founded in 1259 by the Rosenberg family. The complex includes a Gothic church, a Baroque art gallery, exhibitions showcasing the Cistercian way of life, a postal museum and a large library. Vyšší Brod is a 33km, 55 min bus ride from Český Krumlov. Admission 135/100Kč (guides are mandatory, minimum persons 5) Open 09:00 - 11:30 & 13:15 - 16:15. Closed Mondays. Zlatá Koruna Monastery (Klášter Zlatá Koruna) Zlatá Koruna, tel. 380 74 31 26. Přemysl Otakar II, King of Bohemia founded another Cistercian monastery in 1263 just 6km from Český Krumlov (15 mins by bus). The complex consists predominately of Gothic buildings with Baroque or Rococo additions with a three-nave basilica forming the architectural heart of the monastery. The convent is attached to the church and on the northern side is the Chapel of the Guardian Angels (c. 1370), the oldest preserved building of the monastery. There is a permanent exhibition on Literature in South Bohemia and on life at the monastery. Admission 85/40Kč Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mondays. Hluboká Castle (Státní zámek Hluboká) Hluboká nad Vltavou, tel. 387 96 70 45. This early Gothic castle, latterly remodelled as per Britain’s Windsor Castle, was built around 1250. In 1562 Ferdinand I sold Hluboká to the Lords of Hradec who converted the castle into a Renaissance stately home. The Schwarzenberg family had the chateau rebuilt in the Baroque style in the 18th century then which gradually incorporated Gothic elements. The family never lived here permanently but they took great care of the property until WWII when the last owner of Hluboká, Prince Adolf Schwarzenberg, fled the Nazis and post-war, Hluboká became the property of the then Czechoslovak Republic. The exterior is as sublime as the interior, complete with masters’ paintings, Delft china, valuable tapestries, impressive armoury and a Gothic Revival chapel. Hluboká is about 40km from ČK: buses run regularly via České Budějovice.
Český Krumlov In Your Pocket
ČESKÝ KRUMLOV Graphite Mine (Grafitový důl) Chvalšinská ul., tel. 380 71 11 70, www.ckrumlov.cz/grafitovydul. The area around the town has a long history of mining gold, silver and graphite. This 70m deep mine has a 2km (c. 80 mins) sightseeing tour which you ride into the mine on the old miners’ train. All equipment is provided and tours are very informative, plus being a cool respite on hot days. Bookings must be made in advance and tours are available in English and German. Q Open June to Aug 09:00 - 17:30; Sept to May 09:00 - 16:00 Mon to Fri only. Admission 200/100Kč.
fresco dating to the 14th century behind the cash desk. Skip the cheesy chamber of mystery in the cellar. Q Open Nov to Apr 10:00 - 16:00; Oct 10:00 - 17:00; May, June & Sept 10:00 - 18:00; July & Aug 10:00 - 20:00 Admission 80/30Kč.
House of Photography Šatlavská 141, tel. 380 71 22 06, www.waxmuseumprague.cz. This small hall features periodic exhibitions of local as well as international photographers’ works. Currently on display for the season are works of Jan Saudek and photos from Sará Saudková. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 80Kč.
Revolving Theatre Castle Gardens, www.otacivehlediste.cz. Experience this incredible setting for some cultural performances at this unusual stage where open air performances light up the summer evenings. This year sees Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake (31 July to 4 Aug at 21:00), Dumas’ The Three Musketeers (6 - 11 Aug at 21:00) and Hrubín’s Beauty and the Beast (15 Aug to 2 Sept at 20:30), which was written specifically to be performed at this theatre. Q B
Town Hall Náměstí Svornosti 1. The original Gothic structure from the 14th century was joined with the adjacent structures to make one large structure around 1597. The wealthy Čert family used to live here and today it houses the Municipal Authority, the Municipal Police, a newsagent and the Museum of Torture. The square it sits on is the hub of the second area of Ceský Krumlov on an adjacent loop of the river where most of the town’s sights are found, including the landmark Church of St. Vitus. The square holds the Marian Plague Column and fountain, erected in 1715 by Matouš Václav Jäckel. Weddings still take place here, usually on Fridays in the Czech Republic. Check out the coat of arms on the facade and the macabre image of the crow pecking the eyes out of a vanquished Turk (the Schwarzenberg family). A gap above the guttering surrounds a view of the castle tower. The square’s burgher houses are mostly Baroque, with a couple of Renaissance facades and the oldest house, a Gothic one originally, was redone in Empire style and sits next to the Old Inn today. Frescoes & Emblems As you walk through the winding streets and alleys that comprise Český Krumlov, you will probably notice repeated elements on the buildings... the five petalled rose and, usually above the front door, depictions of the Virgin Mary, painted on each home to safeguard the house and its inhabitants. The private building with the KB ATM next to the Egon Schiele museum on Široká ul. has a tongue in cheek Virgin Mary as it’s depiction. The empty red house waiting renovation was home to an alchymist around 1550 in the time of William of Rosenberg. The five petalled rose was on the Rosenberg coat of arms, the town’s founding family (as such) until the early 17th century.
City Theatre Horní Brána 2, tel. 380 72 73 70, www. divadlo.ckrumlov.cz. This theatre was opened in 1993 after extensive reconstruction of the building, but there has been a theatre in Český Krumlov since the 17th century. As well as hosting various performances, the theatre takes a lead role in the Five Petal Rose and St. Wenceslas celebrations. Q Ticket office is open Tue & Thu 13:00 - 17:00 and for one hour before each performance. Fairytale House Radniční 29, tel. 380 71 34 22. Hundreds of historical puppets of varying age, size and shape are here from Bohemian peasants and Asian warriors to pirates, goblins and devils. The puppets have been borrowed from the Theatre Department of the National Museum and from the Náprstek Museum of Asian, African and American Cultures in Prague. Working theatre sets including a giant Ferris wheel will keep the kids occupied while you check out the city’s oldest
Motorcycle Museum Široká 80, tel. 380 71 28 38. Located above a rustic restaurant and antique shop is a permanent exhibit of classic motorcycles from as early as the 1920s. Roughly 30 motorbikes, most of which are Czech-made JAWAs, are displayed in this hall which also doubles as an art gallery. Two German bikes are also exhibited including an old BMW with a sidecar. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 90Kč.
Museum of Torture Náměstí Svornosti 1, tel. 380 76 63 43. The Museum of Torture is located in the medieval cellars of the Town Hall where you will find a vast area filed with instruments of torture, which you might want to use on the busloads of tourists who clog ČK’s streets and alleys. Some of the contraptions displayed here make Rodney King’s ordeal look like a game of tag at an LAPD picnic. More of a haunted house than a museum, many of the ‘exhibits’ are down right silly, but people just can’t get enough cruelty, hence its popularity. Or is it the medieval bondage gear that draws the crowds? QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 80Kč.
Water sports During the summer months a seemingly endless stream of rafters, tubers, kayakers and canoers gently drift down the Vltava often dropping anchor in Český Krumlov for some RnR, to restock their beer supplies or just pick up a cocktail from one fo the riverside bars. Those with an aversion to water watch the adventurous sailors tackle the rapids from the riverbanks and bridges or from the comfort of beer gardens. If you’d like to join them on the river, rent equipment or organise a holiday at the following places.
Tourist information Infocentrum www.ckrumlov.cz/infocentrum The helpful staff can organise accommodation, tickets for concerts, excursions, rafting expeditions, car rental and provide practical information and maps. Internet access available. Nám. Svornosti 2, tel. 380 70 46 22. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Krumlov Tours www.krumlovtours.com Daily guided tours, heritage trips, private tours and event organisation from these enthusiastic young people who will also give advice on where to stay, where to eat and will even organise your wedding for you. Tickets from Infocentrum (listed below). Vyšehrad 261, tel. 723 06 95 61. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Castle Tourist Service www.visitceskykrumlov.cz Another tourist office, this one in the heart of the impressive castle complex offers much the same services as the above. 1st Castle courtyard, tel. 380 72 51 10. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Český Krumlov Discount Card Discount cards for the family and the individual with admission to select museums, a guided city tour and dicounts on certain accommodation options. A excellent way to get an introduction to this lovely town. Cards can be purchased from the Castle Tourist Service and Infocentrum. The Post Office is at Latrán 193, tel. 380 71 17 62 and is open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, closed Sun. If you need some reading matter, in whatever language and for tourist needs or not, the lovely Prague booksellers Shakespeare & Sons have a new and used store at Soukenická 44, open 11:00 - 19:00.
Cesta Sports , tel. 731 41 00 81, www.ck-cesta.cz. Another marine outfitter and not just for the Vltava in Český Krumlov. All you need for an afternoon or a week’s messing about on the river. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Expedicion Soukenická 33, tel. 607 96 38 68/731 57 25 93, www.expedicion.cz. Another outfitters for all your rafting/canoeing needs, plus various other trips such as paddling the Sahara (the mind boggles) and paintballing. Bookings can also be made at the Pension U Pivovaru, Pivovarská 181. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Maleček Boat Rental Rooseveltova 28, tel. 602 74 40 74/380 71 25 08, fax 380 71 19 00, lode@malecek. cz, www.malecek.cz. This excellent outfit provides canoe and boats, routes (anything from one to six days rafting) and transport of vessles and you to or from Český Krumlov. They also offer wooden raft trips through the town giving another perspective to the city’s sights. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Vltava Cestovní Agentura Kájovská 62, tel. 380 71 19 88, fax 380 71 19 78, www.ckvltava.cz. These all round guys offer canoes and rafts, yachting on catamarans on a nearby lake, bicycle rental and horseback riding. Boat rentals get a free bottle of rum thrown in to add to the ambience... QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
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NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN © Českokrumlovský rozvojový fond
This chapter only reviews our selection of nightlife venues in the Old and New Town, the well-touristed area between the river and Wilsonova road. Prices are higher in the Old Town as a rule but that doesn’t stop the party people. For nightlife in Malá Strana, Vinohrady & Žižkov, Letná & Holešovice and Smíchov turn to pages 64 - 75.
Bars Bambus F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 12, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 82 81 10. Finding a seat in this warm and bustling, bamboo-laden bar can be a demanding task but a fine array of cocktails and Pilsner Urquell on tap will help you to relax afterwards. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská
10, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Bugsy’s has been around for a fair while now, but it has managed to keep the ‘it’ that means it is a place to go if you wanted everyone who has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A trendy and hip crowd guaranteed then, as is a menu featuring plenty of decent cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. AEP
De Brug F-2, Praha 1, Masná 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 81 92 83. Not quite an authentic Amsterdam bar – for obvious reasons, but it is Dutch owned and operated and they serve traditional finger food. English breakfast and the usual bar staples of burgers and Mexican bites accompany 38Kč Staropramen, DJ at weekends and the varied set of locals and tourist that wander into this dark, wooden nook. Quiet early, but then it can and often does kick off. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. KW
D u e n d e C - 3 , P r a h a 1 , K a r o l í n y Sv ě t l é 3 0 ,
MStaroměstská, tel. 604 26 97 31, www.duende.cz. A small split-level bar containing casually sophisticated folks who sip and do not gulp their drinks. The odd snack occasionally makes an appearance to liven things up. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. G
Gecko H-5, Praha 1, Mikulandská 2, MNárodní třída, tel. 776 11 72 93. Gecko could be mistaken for a chameleon as it appears to be a fine place for a quiet drink then suddenly you’re having a crazy time in what was the smallest bar in Prague. A kitchen (good, cheap eats) and small music club downstairs plus more tables have almost quadrupled the bar space. The fun factor has not been diluted. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00.
Harley’s E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 18, tel. 227 19 51 95, www.harleys.cz. Interesting mix of bikers, locals and tourists, this long, long bar has emerged on the scene not just because of their large US style food, well mixed drinks or Wild Cats (shot shifting girls) but due to the presence of two of Dusk till Dawn’s barmen. Check it out. Shots around 60Kč and Jack 80Kč. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (120 - 350Kč). A
Chateau Rouge F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 63 28, www.chateaurouge.cz. A local legend. This large, dark red bar continues to be the place to head for to indulge a multitude of vices. A deeper and darker cellar room kicks in later in the evening as a DJ and dance venue, thus giving dedicated nocturnalists another central venue to frequent. Early on it provides a quiet alternative for a bit of chilling. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. AE
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