October 2016 by Bookletia

OC TOBER 2016

h o me o n t he r a n g e

t he hemi q & a : l av er ne cox

t r a ns at l a n t ic t o u chd own

A trip back in time with the American Mountain Men P.58

TV ’s f irst transgender star is changing America one role at a time P.54

The NFL ponders a permanent trip across the pond P.68

“In this city, the ancient and the cutting-edge collide like giddy toddlers.” T H R E E P E R F E C T D A Y S B A R C E L O N A P. 3 8

More than 330 destinations worldwide.

Contents 38

October 2016

Hemi IQ 19 Photographer steve mccurry catches people in the act of reading • digital-age gadgets go analog • a gastronomic hotspot … in Connecticut? • a Paris hotel unveils its revamped jazz club • the return of the 1980s fern bar • on detroit style • rachael ray’s top burger-grilling tip • a new book captures the beauty of abandoned theaters • prince charles opens a pub • royal red shrimp are a rare treat • abbi jacobson digs around in other celebrities’ purses • remember these new alamo city hotels • the Philadelphia Museum of Art displays the revolutionary side of mexican modernism • sigourney weaver faces her film fears

Features 38 three perfect days: barcelona Spain’s marvelous Mediterranean metropolis is home

SALVA LÓPEZ (BARCELONA); PATRICIA SCHLEIN/STAR MAX/GC IMAGES (COX); DANIEL COBURN (MOUNTAIN MAN)

to astonishing architecture, creative cuisine, and nonstop nightlife 54 the hemi q&a: laverne cox The Orange Is the New Black actress on being America’s first transgender star 58 at home on the range Going back to the Old West with a party of American Mountain Men 68 london calling Are the NFL’s annual games in the U.K. the fi rst step in a transatlantic expansion?

Dispatches 79 In china , a tourist becomes a celebrity • art installation meets haunted house in new mexico • an ohio blacksmith embraces gender equality • a court in spain goes old-school

Entertainment and Information 74 crossword and sudoku 84 travel info Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Delays and Cancellations, Route Maps,

Star Alliance, Safety, Customs & Immigration 103 entertainment Movies, Television, Personal Device Entertainment,

Infl ight Wi-Fi, and Audio Programming 113 food and beverages Chef ’s Corner, Choice Menu

leadership letter

voices

connections

A word from United

A message to flyers

What’s new at the airline

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Contributors

EDITOR IN CHIEF JORDAN HELLER DEPUTY EDITOR JUSTIN GOLDMAN EXECUTIVE EDITOR NICHOLAS DERENZO ASSISTANT EDITORS NATHAN PEMBERTON, LAUREN VESPOLI

joshua hersh is a correspondent for VICE News on HBO. His writing has appeared in the New Yorker, the Daily Beast, the Virginia Quarterly Review, the New Republic, and elsewhere. On page 58, he travels to Kansas to profile the American Mountain Men, who attempt to recreate the living conditions of 19th-century frontier explorers in historically accurate fashion.

ART DIRECTOR RICKARD WESTIN PHOTO DIRECTOR JESSIE ADLER ART AND PHOTO ASSISTANT DIANA LURIO CONTRIBUTING WRITERS JENNY ADAMS, ERIC BENSON, ANNA KATHERINE CLEMMONS, JOE DELESSIO, BOYD FARROW, STEVE FRIESS, ELAINE GLUSAC, SARA LIEBERMAN, CRISTINA ROUVALIS CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS BARRY BRUNER, MICHAEL BYERS, MARC ROSENTHAL, JAMESON SIMPSON COVER PHOTO SALVA LÓPEZ INTERNATIONAL EDITOR, U.S. CHRIS WRIGHT

richard morgan is a New York–based freelance writer whose work has taken him to the Arctic Ocean, the beaches of Cuba, the jungles of Peru, the countryside of Turkey, and the G train of Brooklyn. He has written for the New Yorker, New York magazine, and The New York Times, among other publications. On page 54, he interviews television star Laverne Cox for “The Hemi Q&A.”

INK, 68 JAY ST., STE. 315, BROOKLYN, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 EDITORIAL@HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER EDWARD CHAMBERLIN

ADVERTISING MANAGING DIRECTOR GERRY RICKETTS U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTORS ANDREA CHASE-WARD, JACK GRANT INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR STEPHEN ANDREWS VP, STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT ANDREA ALEXANDER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR DAVID BLOOMFIELD VP, SPECIAL PROJECTS CARSTEN MORGAN DIRECTOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS BOBBY MONTGOMERY STRATEGIC ACCOUNTS DIRECTOR (FASHION) ANNA SZPUNAR U.S. TERRITORY MANAGERS JOHANNA BENGSON, DARRON GADDIS, NICHOLE HOWARD, JACK MILLER, RYAN SADORF HAWAII NELLA MEDIA GROUP EUROPE STEVE ROWBTHAM

damien weighill was born in North East England and now lives and works in London, where he creates illustrations for a host of international clients and publications, including The Sunday Times Magazine, Esquire, and The Wall Street Journal. On page 68, he provides the illustration for “London Calling,” about the NFL’s prospects for putting an expansion team in the U.K.

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“In this city, the ancient and the cuttin g-edge collide like giddy toddlers.”

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A United View of the World Welcome Aboard

A Message From Oscar Munoz Though we’ve all become used to its routines, still, it’s hard not to be a little romantic about air travel. Even now, I sometimes catch myself gazing out the window during a long flight. It offers an incredible view, as well as a sense of perspective. In a single flight we cross vast oceans that for much of human history marked the edges of the known world and isolated cultures from one another. We peer down upon mountain peaks that once formed the final horizon for earlier generations and limited their progress. We pass over once uncrossable boundaries without even noticing them, but which for centuries drew false lines of animosity and distrust between tribes and nations, races and religions, creeds and colors, “us” and “them.” Even as we strive to make your flight as convenient and comfortable as possible, it is always worth considering, if only for a moment, the enormous effort and supreme sacrifices that it took for past generations to cross the vast geographical and cultural frontiers that we now trace during a routine flight, and too often take for granted. That is why United designates each October as our “Diversity Awareness Month,” a culmination of a yearround effort to honor past pioneers of inclusion and to empower our employees, customers, and communities to make further progress. We realize that our mission is not just to connect places, but people. We view our product not merely as a commodity we provide, but a calling we fulfill to help create and maintain a more open, connected, and tolerant world. Whether we are flying to Barcelona, Beijing, or Buenos Aires, and everywhere in between, in order to answer that calling fully, our employees must represent the extraordinary diversity of the communities we connect and the customers we serve. We believe that no matter your belief or background, your origin or orientation, the only bar to entry into the United family is a commitment to excellence and a dedication to

the values of openness, tolerance, and inclusion that are at the heart of our business. We hold fast to these values because they are right, and because we believe they elevate the value of the service we provide, which is to bring people together and unlock the creative potential of a more diverse global community. By doubling down on our commitment to promoting diversity and widening the circle of opportunity for all who wish to make their careers with us, we have grown our competitive edge. We’ve done so precisely because of our diversity and the unique capacity it provides us to leverage creativity and innovation around the world. Reaffirming this commitment has never been more important than today. At the very moment when these values are needed more than ever, they seem to be under attack around the world as never before. We hear the rise of voices calling for greater division, rather than greater diversity. We see nations retreat from the world stage and cultures from one another. As a company of more than 86,000 employees that operates around the world, we are determined to live up to our aspiration of connecting the world and facilitating the countless cultural exchanges between individuals, businesses, and communities that drive positive change. And, wherever we fly, the diversity of our workforce that’s at the heart of what I call the new spirit of United will make a positive impact on the communities we connect around the globe. The next time you gaze out the window during a long flight with us, I hope you recognize the pride we feel in helping bring the world closer together. That is why we fly, and it’s the definition of the Friendly Skies.

Oscar Munoz CEO, United Airlines

Voices

¡Hola, Havana! Karen Loess helps United and its customers get to new places, including Cuba s one of United’s station transformation project managers, Karen Loess has had a hand in some historic openings: Moscow; Accra, Ghana; Hangzhou, China; and Lagos, Nigeria, to name a few. And since United received tentative government approval this summer to serve Cuba from Houston and New York/Newark, she has been heavily involved in opening the airline’s newest destination for this winter, Havana. Loess began her career at United in 1983, following in the footsteps of her mother, who also worked for the company. After serving in a variety of roles, including customer service and as the general manager of the Indianapolis station, she returned home to Chicago to work at United’s headquarters as part of the new station start-up division. “Each new destination poses its own set of hurdles,” Loess says. “Moscow was the first opening that I worked on, and I remember that we had to take photos of every single piece of equipment and all of our materials to submit before we were able to move it into the country. It took months to compile, but it was a good learning experience.” Over the years, Loess has become adept at figuring out how to navigate government regulations and local customs to move things forward. “China is a good example of that,” she says. “Each region of the country has its own unique

by m at t a da m s

rules governing business licenses, importing and exporting, and so on. Opening Hangzhou was much different than opening Xi’an, but that’s what makes the job fun.” Generally, once a new destination is confirmed, Loess can mobilize within a couple of weeks to get employees in-country to begin working with officials. A new international station start-up takes, on average, around six months from beginning to end, and Loess’s team stays on the ground through the first three f lights in and out of the new location so that they can monitor everything firsthand. Cuba, however, was different; Loess and the start-up team had to follow a more structured process to schedule meetings with Cuban civil aviation officials and to secure visas, which was made all the more difficult because all U.S. carriers granted approval to serve Cuba were competing to do the same. The team also wasn’t allowed to travel to Cuba until after the route approvals were announced, meaning it had a smaller than normal time window in which to ready United’s operation at José Martí International Airport. With the July announcement that United would tentatively receive the Havana routes, Loess’s first order of business was to begin implementing carefully crafted plans to coordinate with local ground handlers to sort out airport operations protocols, work scope, and security logistics. From there, her team expedited getting to Cuba all of the items that an airline needs to function, from IT equipment to catering supplies. In accordance with Cuban law, U.S.-based companies cannot directly hire employees there, so to staff the Havana station Loess and her team partnered with a local Cuban firm to recruit and vet candidates on United’s behalf. In the end, Loess and her colleagues, including more than 100 stakeholders within United, pulled off something that travelers in the U.S. have dreamed about for more than 50 years: They helped make Havana accessible to United’s customers. “When we received the news that we would begin serving Havana later this year, I was thrilled,” Loess says. “It was not only a monumental event in our company’s history but a proud moment for all of us to be part of history. We’ve worked—and continue to work—with our new partners in Cuba to deliver a safe and reliable operation for our customers.” The reopening of Cuba is just one example of how, for 33 years, Loess has had a front row seat to the everchanging world of global travel. “I’m always surprised by the places we open up,” she says. “I’ve never guessed a new route yet. It will be interesting to see where we’re going next.” United plans to launch service to Havana on November 29, 2016, pending government approval.

Connections

b y r ya n h o o d

Championship Flying United carries America’s teams to victory osing the 2014 World Series in dramatic fashion was tough for the Kansas City Royals, the team’s fans, and the United employees who helped ensure the team arrived comfortably for each of its games throughout the season. So when the Royals bounced back to win the 2015 World Series, it was a major point of pride for not only Kansas City but also United. “The Royals are amazing to work with, so it was disappointing to see them lose,” says Dawn Segler, a United flight attendant who works

Ask the Pilot

Above: flight attendant Dawn Segler with the Kansas City Royals’ 2015 World Series trophy; left: the United crew with the Denver Broncos’ plane

Ross. “That pride is reflected in our charters’ performance and growing client list. We look forward to continuing to provide champion-caliber service to our sports-team clients.”

with Captain Lawrence Ellis

Captain Lawrence Ellis is United’s San Francisco chief pilot

Q: How does the crew onboard deal

with jet lag? When I fly I sometimes get beaten down by jet lag (like when I travel from Los Angeles to Shanghai), but I always see the crew fresh and ready for the next flight. How? A: There are several reasons why the pilots are fresh and rested at the end

on the Royals’ charters. “But when they came back the next year and won it all, it was something words could never describe.” October means playoff baseball is here again, along with the college and NFL football seasons. United has a reputation for running a smooth charter operation, and the airline is proud to fly more than 50 MLB, NFL, and NCAA teams, including the Royals and the Super Bowl 50 champions, the Denver Broncos. The airline even put the Broncos’ logo and orange lettering on the plane used to transport the team to the Super Bowl, in tribute to the team’s “United in Orange” slogan. “Many United employees care about sports, and being able to say you’ve played a role in helping your favorite team get from city to city can be a point of pride,” says United’s managing director of charters, Kevin

of a long flight like Los Angeles to Shanghai. All U.S. airlines are required by federal regulations to provide the pilots plenty of rest in the days preceding a commercial flight where they are the acting pilot. The longer the scheduled flight time, the longer the period of inactivity in the days and hours preceding that commercial flight. These regulations ensure the pilots are rested and ready for a long flight. Additional regulations require that flights longer than eight hours will have one additional pilot to share the duties. For extra-long flights (more than 13 hours), there will be two additional pilots. The additional pilots allow for each pilot to rest in the designated crew rest facility. On the

Boeing 787 aircraft United uses for your flight to Shanghai, the pilots can relax in a state-of-the-art facility that was designed to improve their ability to rest. Those specifically designed features allow them to be safe and alert when it is their turn to fly the aircraft. Over the course of their careers, pilots also have learned what they personally need to do to be fresh and alert upon arrival at the end of a long flight. These modifications could be to our diet, our exercise routine, or our sleep schedule, depending on the flight we are scheduled to operate. You can write to United’s chief pilots by addressing askthepilot@united.com

Hemi

CHIANG MAI, THAILAND, © STEVE MCCURRY, TAKEN FROM ON READING, BY STEVE MCCURRY (PHAIDON, OCTOBER 2016)

A sma r t g u ide to t he world t h is mont h

All the World’s a Page Photographer Steve McCurry’s new book pays tribute to the power of the written word It’s a moment that’s familiar to every bookworm: You’re on a bus or a train or even on foot, headed somewhere, reading as you go, and you find yourself in the middle of a passage or chapter or verse so gripping that you have to stop what you’re doing and finish it right then and there. In his new book, On Reading, photographer Steve McCurry (best known for his 1985 National Geographic cover of a green-eyed Afghan girl) captures in evocative fashion how words on the page can study hall

enthrall us—no matter where we are. McCurry’s readers appear all over the world, in environments both surprising and not: a boy leaning against an affectionate elephant in Thailand (pictured), a woman perched halfway up a ladder in a historic Brazilian library, a Serbian workman perusing a newspaper while a fire rages behind him. As famed travel writer Paul Theroux says in the introduction to On Reading, “The great books cast a spell, admitting the reader to a world sometimes exemplary.” —JUSTIN GOLDMAN (OCT. 3)

About 20 Years If it’s completed as planned by 2026 (the ni Gaudí’s death), centennial of architect Antoni ve taken 144 years the Sagrada Família will have ry longer than it took to build—more than a century ld the Great the ancient Egyptians to build Pyramid of Giza. (For more on Spain’s Mediterranean capital, turn to page 38 celona.”) for “Three Perfect Days: Barcelona.”)

144 Years

Sagrada Família basilica G Great P Pyramid o Giza of Years to complete: 25

100

125

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Analog Retentive Retro gadgets take digital media consumption back to the tactile The defining characteristic of millennials is surely their relationship with the digital world. But even kids who’ve grown up consuming their media online like to have a record or a photo they can actually hold on to. A few new gadgets on the market are aiming to tap into that analog desire. Record-subscription service Vnyl has created the TRNTBL, which the company claims is the first Internet-of-Things record player. When you place a regular vinyl disc on the TRNTBL, a Shazamlike feature identifies tracks and tells followers what you’re listening to. “For the generation who grew up with Napster, physical music is new and exciting,” says Vnyl founder Nick Alt. “Now they can create connections and community around vinyl discoveries.” It’s not just music streaming that’s going tactile. Another company, the Impossible Project, is returning photo sharing to the id with a retro-looking realm of the Polaroid era (pictured). Perhaps analog instant camera e company’s fastestnot surprisingly, the growing customer group is between the ages of 16 and 24. hat is intrigued by “Generation Snapchat cisely because they this technology precisely have grown up in a digital world,” says wski. “The physicality CEO Oskar Smolokowski. ore people are fascinates them. More ey want discovering that they to shoot with more care ive and hold their creative accomplishments.” media studies

—BOYD FARROW

Inn Vogue A Connecticut chef brings modern gastronomy to a Gilded Age setting Apart from its white clam pizza, Connecticut has never been known as much of a foodie destination. That all changed this May with the opening of Mystic’s Spicer Mansion, a luxe eight-room inn housed in a restored 1853 sea captain’s estate. The centerpiece of the Gilded Age–inspired makeover is the inn’s dining room, where hotel (and invited) guests can indulge in a six-course farm-to-table tasting menu by chef Jennifer Backman, who cut her teeth at Rhode Island’s Weekapaug Inn and Ocean House. To fit with the property’s 19th-century aesthetic (pineapple-shaped light fixtures, a grand mahogany staircase), Backman harks back to a golden era of fine dining, with touches that are often ignored these days: tableside preparations, Italian hemstitch linens, Baccarat crystal, pre-dinner bites in the anteroom. “Having our guests join in the salons for a pre-dinner cocktail and canapé is, to me, a lost art of hospitality that I think is truly unique to their experience with us,” Backman says. “Dinner is meant to be an indulgent experience, something that isn’t rushed through but savored to the last bite.” While the environment may feel like a dinner party at Jay Gatsby’s house, the cuisine is anything but stuck in the past. Backman lists Eleven Madison Park’s Daniel Humm and the French Laundry’s Thomas Keller as inspirations, and you can see their influence in ingredient-driven dishes like foie gras with grilled and poached peaches, blueberries, cacao nibs, and cornmeal madeleines; or corn “chowdah,” with smoked scallop, Stonington red shrimp, green chili, and bacon nuage. “I get excited every time a new ingredient comes into season,” she says. “It’s a chance for us to expand and grow, every day, season to season.” —NICHOLAS DERENZO hospitality

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Josh Groban makes his Broadway debut this month in Natasha, Pierre & the Great Comet of 1812, composer Dave Malloy’s 150-minute musical adaptatio adaptation of a 70-page chunk of Leo Tolstoy’s massiv massive novel War and Peace. If dec Malloy had decided to musicalize the entire p novel—1,440 pages in the Penguin Classics re edition—the resulting play would last longer than two full days. d (PREVIEWS BEGIN OCT. 18)

The Rebirth of the Cool A legendary Paris jazz club gets a modern facelift

COURTESY OF SOHO HOUSE (CAFÉ MONICO)

music history From the wide boulevard of the Champs-Élysées to the narrow alleys of the 10th arrondissement, the music that most tourists and moviegoers associate with the streets of Paris is the reedy wheeze of accordion waltzes. But, in truth, jazz is the closest thing the City of Light has to a soundtrack. And at Le Méridien Etoile, a 17th arrondissement hotel that opened in 1972 as a dormitory for jet-lagged airline employees, jazz stoked the nightly passions of barflies and denizens of the cool for going on four decades. The hotel’s Lionel Hampton Jazz Club (named in honor of the American vibraphonist) regularly drew legends such as B.B. King and Dizzy Gillespie. As part of Le Méridien’s $300 million renovation and new construction plans, the renamed Jazz Club Etoile underwent a modernist makeover, with mid-century seating, secluded corner booths, and a 270-degree stage for outstanding sightlines. Jazz Club Etoile hopes to preserve Paris’s imported heritage with its world-renowned café cool, and it very nearly accomplishes this. There’s only one thing missing: When the lights dim, smoke no longer lingers above the stage; it’s outside, in a specially marked area. —NATHAN PEMBERTON

Another ’80s Reboot? Restaurant designers resurrect the classic (and questionable) aesthetics of the yuppie era Ghostbusters isn’t the only 1980s classic that’s gotten an update this year. Though the decade isn’t often remembered as a high-point in design, ’80s aesthetics are cropping up in a number of trendy new restaurants. One of the most popular iterations is the muchderided “fern bar,” a style of homey tavern (like Cheers or T.G.I. Friday’s) that emerged in San Francisco in the late 1970s and ’80s to serve a yuppie clientele. Take, for example, London’s Café Monico (pictured), an extravaganza of brass sconces and frilly-shaded lamps that was recently opened by Rowley Leigh, whose Kensington Place was a favorite of Princess Di’s. Or there’s nearby Hoppers, where the food may be Sri Lankan and South Indian, but the decor is a tribute to many long-mothballed ’80s restaurant staples, such as wood paneling, tile tabletops, Cesca chrome-and-rattan chairs, and hanging baskets. design

“We wanted an inviting, eclectic environment,” says Katy Manolescue, whose Article Design Studio was responsible for the anti-hipster look of Hoppers. “I think people are sick of stark, sparse spaces and design for design’s sake.” A similar approach informed the decor at Oleanders, the fashionable restaurant at Brooklyn’s McCarren Hotel, which has gone all in on the fern-bar aesthetic with Tiffany chandeliers and the namesake vegetation, plus a menu that includes lobster Thermidor and crab Louie. According to Ted Berner, co-founder of the Los Angeles design studio Powerstrip, these restaurants augur a swing toward “homeliness,” partly as a riposte to all the faux artisanal fixtures and repurposed tableware of recent years. “Hipsters don’t have too much humor,” Berner says. “People have remembered that they want color, they want more fun, they want to relax.” —BF

MichaelAnthony’s FourPoint Shopping Plan

I love Tip Toe Shoe Repair for their classic Detroit-style hats, like oversize fedoras or newsboy caps, which we call apple hats because they’re a little bigger.

Many boutiques don’t gear toward big sizes, so I find a lot in places like Thrift on the Avenue, a consignment and resale boutique. They have great accessories by local artists: bow ties by Bleu Bowtique, wooden jewelry by Girl Buy, and vintage cuff links and lapel pins from House of Menagerie.

On Detroit Style

I love the message of the homegrown clothing label Detroit Vs. Everybody, which empowers Detroit to keep working hard. The brand features monogrammed tees, sweatshirts, baseball hats, and much more.

Joe Porter’s Men’s Wear is one of the city’s top suit stores, where you can get that iconic Detroit look: a modern zoot suit with wide-leg pants.

by sara lieberman photography by ly n d o n f r e n c h

Michael-Anthony Spearman (“The Big Fashion Guy”), 30, Image Consultant and Blogger

How would you describe your style? Urban preppy. I was born in the Bronx and raised in Detroit, two very distinct cities where I gained inspiration from my surroundings—like pairing blue jeans with a structured blazer and the uniform look of a V-neck sweater, polo shirt, and khakis. Ralph Lauren is one of my biggest inspirations. fashion

How about the Motor City’s style scene? Detroit is such a melting pot of cultures that all influence each other, but it has a particular lasting style that mixes classic comfort with a touch of old-school glam. Some guys go to work in overalls paired with a nice fedora or jeans with a chunky necklace. The style scene is truly starting to blossom. We now have a Michigan Fashion Week, as well as style organizations and influencers like “The Seen” Detroit, Detroit’s Walk Fashion Show, and The New Stereotype: Motor City. What should a visitor wear to fit in? Detroit is very big on expressing your individuality regardless of what others may say or think. We have a “who cares?” attitude, but we are also passionate about our professional sports teams, so rocking any sports memorabilia is a sure way to fit in. Tell us about today’s look. Detroit dressing is all about coordinating your look head-to-toe in one color and maybe one texture. Today, I went with shades of brown. The tweed newsboy hat is by Capas Headwear. The brown herringbone shirt is from Sean John, and I paired it with a chocolate brown tie from thetiebar.com. My corduroy pants are Polo by Ralph Lauren, to keep with the preppy look, and my coordinating tweed blazer is from Stafford. My shoes are from Asos, and I got the lapel pin from the Salvation Army.

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“ I prefer th the indoor method of a good old cast-iron skillet. Gr Griddles and cast-iron skillets create a delicious crust on tthe meat, resulting in deeply flavored burgers. grilling can hide flavors in char and smoke.” Outdoor g A burger-cooking burger-c tip from Rachael Ray, who hosts the Blue Moon Burger Bash, a celebrity-chef cook-off, at this month’s N New York City Wine & Food Festival. (OCT. 13–16)

The Last Picture Show A Brooklyn photographer shares his appreciation for abandoned spaces Ansel Adams can keep his sweeping outdoor vistas. Brooklyn-based photographer Matt Lambros finds poignant beauty in an opposite kind of landscape: the interiors of abandoned movie theaters. For his latest book, After the Final Curtain: The Fall of the American Movie Theater, out this month, Lambros traveled around the country, from Boston to Detroit to New Orleans and all manner of small towns in between, photographing the ruins of 24 formerly grand movie palaces and their collapsed ceilings, dilapidated projection booths, and chipped decorative plasterwork walls. Lambros was inspired to seek out the old theaters by his grandmother, who, he says, “would stop at every old barn she came across, dragging me and my brother along with her.” It’s unsurprising, then, that the images hark back to a pre-multiplex era when, as Lambros puts it, “going to the movies was an event.” There’s undoubtedly a sense of loss in the photos. “Unfortunately, a large number of the theaters I’ve

photographed will probably be demolished rather than reused,” Lambros notes. As a result, After the Final Curtain serves as something of a eulogy for these spaces, one of the last opportunities for these architectural marvels to be seen before they’re lost to the wrecking ball. Some have already been demolished. Still, through advocacy work and charitable photo workshops, Lambros has managed to help restore some of his favorite subjects. The first theater he ever photographed, the ornate Kings Theatre in Brooklyn’s Flatbush neighborhood, reopened last year with a roof-shaking Diana Ross concert after a $95 million restoration. “Even though I had photographed the Kings many times throughout the years, walking into the restored theater was aweinspiring,” Lambros says. “It looked just like how I imagine it must have looked when it originally opened in 1929.” —ND (OCT. 1)

LARRY BUSACCA/GETTY IMAGES FOR NYCWFF (RAY)

archaeology

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This month, Chicago’s Field Museum presents the new exhibit Tattoo, which features Maori masks, Argentine cactus needle tools, and models of the human body inked by contemporary artists. While tattoos may not date back as far as the Field’s most famous resident, Sue the T. rex, the artform has a surprisingly long history: The world’s oldest known tattoos can be found on Ötzi, a naturally mummified man who was buried under an Alpine glacier in about 3300 B.C. Ötzi had 61 tattoos—five more than celebrity inkophile Justin Bieber (as of press time, anyway). (OCT. 21)

Ötzi

Justin Bieber

61 tattoos

56 tattoos

The Prince of Ales The heir to the British throne raises the bar with his brand-new pub.

MAR PHOTOGRAPHICS/ALAMY LIVE NEWS (ÖTZI THE ICEMAN); THEO WARGO/GETTY IMAGES FOR THREE LIONS ENTERTAINMENT (BIEBER); POOL/TIM GRAHAM PICTURE LIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES (PRINCE CHARLES)

british history Traditional pubs are closing all over the United Kingdom. So it came as quite a surprise when Prince Charles announced that he would be getting into the pub business this fall. Through his position as Duke of Cornwall, Charles created the town of Poundbury in Dorset County as a lesson in sustainable urban development. This month, the village welcomes the Duchess of Cornwall pub, a partnership between the duchy and Hall & Woodhouse brewery that will also include a 20-room inn. The bar’s name refers to the prince’s wife, Camilla Parker Bowles; her sister, Annabel Elliot, will serve as its design consultant. “As a family that can trace its roots back to 1066, we are delighted to be working with another family with a long history,” says Mark Woodhouse, chairman of Hall & Woodhouse. “The Duchess of Cornwall is going to be a truly amazing pub, a product of both families’ traditions.” A classic Georgian inn, the Duchess oozes old-school English charm, with rooms reflecting three key themes—mercantilism, seafaring, and gentility—and a menu of elevated pub fare, such as lobster frites and duck-confit shepherd’s pie. No word yet on whether Queen Elizabeth and Prince Charles—who will be in town this month to inaugurate both the pub and Queen Mother Square, on which it sits— will follow up the ribbon cutting with a pint of the pub’s limitededition Duchess Ale. —DENA ROCHÉ

Prawn Star To sample royal red shrimp, you’ll need to travel to the source

According to the FDA, when you buy or order “shrimp,” you might get any of 41 species, farmed or wild, from all over the world. But if you buy “royal red shrimp,” it can be only one prized, rare species: Pleoticus robustus, the King of Shrimp. Tory McPhail, longtime chef at New Orleans’s Commander’s Palace, recently described the unusually red, almost cooked-looking crustacean as “hands down one of the best pieces of seafood I’ve ever eaten.” But despite its lofty reputation among those in the know, the royal red remains unknown to many. That’s because it is fished for in jjust three commercially significant en enclaves: two in the Gulf of Mexico aand one in the Atlantic, off St. Augu Augustine, Florida. Never farmed, roya royal reds live much deeper and farther off offshore than other shrimp—50 to 200 m miles out and as deep as 2,500 feet— feet—making them difficult and expensiv expensive to catch. They’re soft-shelled and fra fragile, meaning they’re tough to sh ship, so the marine biology

easiest way to try them is to visit the Gulf Coast, especially around Biloxi and Gulfport, Mississippi, where they’re a prized local specialty. “They’re saltier, because the ocean gets saltier as it gets deeper,” says Robin Krohn-David, executive director of Biloxi’s Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum. “They’re so good— more like lobster than shrimp—and great boiled and dipped in butter.” “I haven’t ever found any shrimp better in the world,” says Ed Layton, the vice president overseeing food and beverage for Gulfport’s Island View casino, which serves royal reds at its Beach Boulevard Steamer. “It’s delicate, sweet—more like scallop or crab.” “People crave them,” says chef Aimee Anglin of The Blind Tiger, a waterfront gastropub in Bay St. Louis, Mississippi. She serves them in tacos; atop char-grilled oysters; and with corn, sausage, and potatoes in the Low Country Boil. “Succulent is how I describe it—but you can’t describe it. You have to taste it. They melt in your mouth.” —LARRY OLMSTED

Before she was one half of the duo behind Comedy Central’s Broad City City, Abbi Jacobson was a professional illustrator. In her new pictu picture book, Carry This Book, Jacobson takes a voyeuristic (and ofte often hilarious) look inside the purses, tote bags, weekenders, and fa fanny packs of celebrities and fictional characters, from Beyon Beyoncé to Indiana Jones. She imagines, for example, that alongside her tr trademark lace collar, Ruth Bader Ginsburg keeps a pink iPod Shuff Shuffle (loaded with Jock Jams) and a Dave and Buster’s Power Card. Celeb Celebrities: they pack just like us. (OCT. 25)

Remember the Alamo City San Antonio’s newest luxury properties are firmly rooted in the past out to be much hipper than its self-deprecating bumper stickers suggest, managing to transform on its own terms while still preserving local spirit. For proof, look no further than two new hotels, each located in a San Antonio landmark. —ERIN BRADY

Hotel Emma

St. Anthony Hotel A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL, SAN ANTONIO

The 146-room hotel opened lastt fall nce in the 1894 Pearl Brewhouse, once ow Texas’s grandest brewery and now the hub of an urban-renewal district that includes a Culinary Institute of America campus. You might assume the property is ctunamed for one woman, but it actuer ally honors three: Emma Koehler 914 owned the brewery after the 1914 he hands of one death of her husband, Otto, at the dE of two mistresses—both also named Emma.

Husband-and-wife design duo Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch have incorporated former brewery components, such as cast-iron storage tanks and an old generator ﬂywheel, alongside homey design elements like worn buffalo-leather sofas and kilim-upholstered chairs.

In addition to Larder, a local provisions market hidden in the old cellar, the hotel is home to chef John Brand’s Supper, a South Texas bistro featuring clever yet comforting dishes like venison loin with juniper parsnip mousse and blueberry mustard.

Bene Beneath the Sternewirth bar’s 25-foot ceilings, guests g can quaff the Three Emmas cockta cocktail, made with gin, absinthe, Gran Classico, and apricot. The lounge is named f the th Sternewirth St i th Privilege, P i for a pre-Prohibition tradition that allowed brewery workers free beer all day.

HISTORY HI

REDESIGN

LOCAL EATS

SIGNATURE DRINK

en, the city’s Built in 1909 by a pair of cattlemen, e likes of ﬁrst luxury hotel once greeted the evelt in its Princess Grace and Eleanor Roosevelt te its luxe grand Italian marble lobby. Despite reputation (it became the world’s ﬁrst 6), the fully air-conditioned hotel in 1936), property had fallen on hard timess before it changed hands in 2012. After a $24 million, two-year renovation,, the ge of 277-room hotel, located at the edge mber as Travis Park, reopened last November ion. part of Starwood’s Luxury Collection.

Design ﬁrm ForrestPerkins drew inspiration from the annual Battle of the Flowers Parade, which wh honors the fallen heroes of the Alamo Alamo. Touches include bold ﬂoral patterns and an bright jewel tones, such as lapis b blue and “St. Anthony green,” a shad shade developed in the 1950s by Dorothy Draper, the designer behind New Yor rk k City’s Carlyle Hotel. York

At Rebelle, chef Stefan Bowers we ers pairs ca al ingrediEuropean methods with local ents in dishes such as Texass quail elnuts, with haricot vert salad, hazelnuts, g, and red pepper, shallot dressing, pork-jowl bacon.

With its mosaic ﬂoors and wood-panel walls, the St. Anthony Club is a step t back b k in i time. ti I this thi former f In members-only venue, guests can pretend to be oil barons while sipping the signature Last Cocktail. With gin, prosecco, rosemary, lemon, and pear puree, it’s perfect for combating the Texas heat.

PIERLUIGI PRATURLON/REPORTERS ASSOCIATI & ARCHIVI/MONDADORI PORTFOLIO VIA GETTY IMAGES (PRINCESS GRACE); FLOWERPHOTOS/UIG VIA GETTY IMAGES (PEAR); EDUCATION IMAGES/UIG VIA GETTY IMAGES (QUAIL); BILL HOGAN/CHICAGO TRIBUNE/MCT VIA GETTY IMAGES (GRAN CLASSICO)

About a decade ago, in response to its northern neighbor’s “Keep Austin weird” slogan, San Antonio unveiled its own campaign: “Keep San Antonio lame.” But with new restaurants, museums, and a $358 million Riverwalk expansion, the city is turning history

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got your back in every time zone.

This month’s “Hemi Q&A” subject, Laverne Cox (page 54), became the first openly transgender person to appear on the cover of Time magazine on June 9, 2014. Here, a rundown of other milestone first Times. 1923

First openly LGBTQ person: Vietnam War veteran Leonard Matlovich

First AfricanAmerican woman: opera singer Marian Anderson

First woman: Italian actress Eleonora Duse

1946

1975

2014

All the News That’s Fit to Woodprint Decades before Twitter and Facebook Live, Mexican Modernists were inventing citizen journalism Opening this month at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, Paint the Revolution: Mexican Modernism, 1910-1950 is being called the most comprehensive collection of Mexican Modernist art shown in the U.S. in seven decades. The exhibit showcases an era when Mexico’s most prominent artists, such as Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, used their works to bear witness to historical events and express political views. “The whole idea of Mexican art in Modernism is to activate people and make them aware,” says project assistant curator Mark A. Castro. “These artists perceived themselves as workers, invested in shaping society for the better.” One of the exhibit’s surprising highlights is a small group of prints that are among the earliest depictions of the horrors of Nazi Germany. Long before the international press got its hands on photos of the atrocities, European political exiles joined forces with a collective of American and Mexican artists called Taller de Gráfica Popular to create 1943’s The Black Book of Nazi Terror. One print, Deportation to Death, by Leopoldo Méndez, depicts soldiers inspecting train cars filled with people being

shipped off to a concentration camp— perhaps the first published depiction of the Holocaust—while his wood engraving The Vengeance of the People (pictured) shows an ax-wielding man attacking the cowering figures of Adolf Hitler and Benito Mussolini. “Once they escaped, rather than do nothing, they began to vocalize and document these horrors,” Castro says. “In one way, [The Black Book] is a small angle within the exhibit, but in another way, it is representative of this

entire trend, which is that artisans felt that they had to activate people to fight oppression.” For instance, American expat Robert Mallary’s 1942 lithograph This Is the Nazi New Order, which prominently featured a cross-wearing man being executed by the Nazis, was used as pro-war propaganda. “These artists created art to provoke the changes that they wanted to see,” Castro says. “They felt that there was a responsibility to do that—for art to do that.” —STEPHANIE CITRON (OCT. 25)

art history

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161 31 Emily Bluntâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buzzy new thriller, The Girl on the Train (Oct. 7), is based on Paula Hawkinsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s debut 2015 novel, which has spent more than a year (and counting) on The New York Times Best Seller List. Not shabby for a first-timer, but some of the other book-to-movie adaptations hitting theaters this month come from the minds of some slightly more prolific writers. Here, a by-the-numbers look at authorial output.

James Patterson Middle School: The Worst Years of My Life (OCT. 7)

đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;

Philip Roth American Pastoral (OCT. 28)

đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;

Lee Child Jack Reacher: Never Go Back (OCT. 21) đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;

Patrick Ness A Monster Calls (OCT. 21) đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2122;

Dan Brown Inferno (OCT. 28)

đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;đ&#x;&#x201C;&#x2022;

Sigourney Weaver Scares Easy Apparently, the tough-lady persona is just an act

ON SCARY MOVIES

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m very suggestible, so there are many things I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t watchâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; even stuff that I think is really not convincing, like vampire and zombie movies. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t watch any of it unless Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m with my daughter, who is very hardcore and is like, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Oh, Mom, canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you see the latex coming off their

faces?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Like, with World War Z, which I really wanted to see, I needed to be told exactly what would happen, and then I could watch it and enjoy it. Isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t that terrible? But it also means that I really believe it. I wish I could say that only really scary movies scare me, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not true. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sad.â&#x20AC;? ON HER FIRST FILM FRIGHT

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I remember going to see something very nice and benign, a Disney movie like The Light in the Forest. But before and after, they had these rather terrifying coming attractions for The Tingler. They shook your seat and gave you a little shock, and that completely undid me for many years. I think I could still get scared about it.â&#x20AC;? ON THE GHOSTBUSTERS REMAKE

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I love the idea of there being women Ghostbusters. I loved meeting little-boy Ghostbusters on Halloween. For a long time, I thought, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Where are the little-girl Ghostbusters?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d have to be [my character from the original films] Dana, which is â&#x20AC;Ś not quite as exciting.â&#x20AC;? ON HER FINDING DORY CAMEO

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I was very flattered, because I had done a lot of work on the ocean, climate change, and I really believe in these protected areas. They really work, and so I was thrilled to be a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;friend of the fish.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; But I had no idea that they would use [my voice] throughout, and that the fish would say â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;my friend Sigourney,â&#x20AC;&#x2122; which, to me, was such a great compliment that I try not to eat them now!â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;ND

PHOTO BY FABRICE DALLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ANESE/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES (WEAVER)

Sigourney Weaver has shared the screen with ghosts, aliens, robots, and, in A Monster Calls (which is currently on the film festival circuit in advance of a January 6 wide release), a CGI tree creature voiced by Liam Neeson. In J.A. Bayonaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s adaptation of the childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s book of the same name, she plays the stern grandmother of a young boy who copes with his motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s terminal illness by trading late-night tales with Neesonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s visiting colossus. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s telling that the giant wooden beast is the cuddlier of the two characters. While Weaver has embodied some of cinemaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s steeliest badasses, as an audience member sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, well, a bit of a scaredy-cat. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been much too sensitive to anything scary,â&#x20AC;? she says, with a laugh, â&#x20AC;&#x153;which is so ironic, because I play, you know, these great people.â&#x20AC;? Here, fresh off summer cameos in the Ghostbusters remake and Finding Dory (in which she played herself as the celebrity PA announcer of the fictional Marine Life Institute), Weaver talks about scary movies, girls fighting ghosts, and why sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s avoiding seafood these days. film studies

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Three Perfect Days:

Barcelona by b oy d fa r r ow p h o t o g r a p h y by s a lva l ó p e z

Spain’s El Gordo may be the world’s biggest national lottery, but Barcelona residents have already hit the jackpot. The capital city of Catalonia, a semiautonomous region in the country’s northeast, has a culture—and language—all its own. It has extraordinary architecture (from the medieval clutter of the Barri Gòtic to the Modernist apparitions of Antoni Gaudí), a lively arts scene, some of the world’s most inventive cuisine (22 Michelin-starred restaurants), as well as a perfect climate and more than three miles of sand for its beautiful people to strut their stuff on. All this is hardly a secret: Nearly 25 years after the 1992 Olympics propelled Barcelona into the global spotlight, its 1.6 million residents are vastly outnumbered by the people who come to visit. Many leave their hearts in the city—and many simply decide to stay.

Day One in which boyd gets a glimpse of a gaudí dreamscape, climbs a mountain to look at modern art, and peruses the world’s greatest collection of fresh produce

It’s midmorning at Caelum, a cryptlike cafe in Barcelona’s Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) where the cakes are made by nuns. I am contemplating a cup of “Blessed Chocolate”— thick as asphalt and almost as dark—when my companion, Lynette Kucsma, whispers: “Try one of these.” From her bag she produces a handful of chocolate cookies shaped like spoons, and we cackle like hens. Half an hour ago, I watched Lynette make these cookies using a 3-D printer created by the tech startup she cofounded, Natural Machines. The company headquarters are surrounded by a 14th-century cathedral, a 15th-century palace, and the remnants of a Roman wall. In this city, the ancient and the cutting-edge collide like giddy toddlers. Indeed, much of Barcelona seems like a playpen for surrealists and mad scientists—a Terry Gilliam fantasy brought to life. I woke this morning in the Neoclassical Majestic Hotel, a century-old five-star property on the shopping

avenue Passeig de Gràcia. From the balcony of my suite, I looked out at fairytale turrets, pillars of bone, and a roof that resembles an iridescent armadillo. This turns out to be Casa Batlló, designed by visionary Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, the man who, more than any other, manifests the spirit of Barcelona. Later, having demolished the Modernist breakfast buffet tower I made out of Manchego cheese and Ibérico ham, I cross the road for a closer look. Built in the early 20th century as a private residence, Casa Batlló is more dream sequence than domicile: ceilings swirl, walls convulse, windows bulge. The roof terrace has multicolored mushroom-shaped chimney pots. You can only imagine Gaudí’s meetings with the client, textile titan Josep Batlló: “Hey, Joe, how about skylights shaped like tortoise shells?” Passeig de Gràcia is situated in Eixample, Barcelona’s commercial hub. It extends from Gràcia, a former village in the north, to Plaça Catalunya, the huge, teeming square where the Ciutat Vella (Old Town) meshes with the 19thcentury grid. After a half dozen or so tactile sales pitches, I am tempted to buy a selfie stick from a hawker to beat my way through the other hawkers. South of here is Barcelona’s most famous street, La Rambla, a tree-lined pedestrian boulevard that nuzzles the Barri Gòtic and runs all the way to the port. Near the waterfront is the Monument a Colom, a 195-foot iron column with

The bone-shaped pillars of Antoni Gaudí’s Casa Batlló

Artist Tom Fruin looks out from his rooftop sculpture Watertower at the Manhattan Bridge, the East River, and World Trade Center One

Carrer dels Cotoners, named for its history of cotton production; below: a jamón vendor at La Boqueria

Christopher Columbus on top, pointing out to sea. This is said to be the exact spot that the explorer returned to after discovering the New World. If he’d turn around, he’d have a great view of what is often called Barcelona’s “emotional hub.” As for me, I’m mainly seeing the backs of people’s heads and the tops of kiosks. Barcelona attracts 9 million visitors a year, and this morning most of them are shuffling in front of me. At one point I find myself jostling before the ornate Font de Canaletes—built in the 19th century over an ancient watering hole—around which people, even today, congregate to refill their Evian bottles. Barcelona’s real treasures tend to be above eye level: the multipronged street lamps, the licorice balustrades of the townhouses, the Rococo flourishes of the 18th-century Palau de la Virreina, and the Baroque stylings of the Gran Teatre del Liceu opera house, which was Europe’s largest theater when it opened in 1847. The Liceu’s woes eclipse any tragedy it has staged: A fire in 1861 destroyed everything but its facade, and three decades later the auditorium was re-destroyed by anarchists. Another rebuild was needed following a blaze in 1994. Feeling a little overheated myself, I duck down a side street, then weave my way through the Roman ruins to find Lynette and her sci-fi snacks. “Barcelona is great for startups,” she says as we wander the Barri Gòtic, stopping to take in the deliriously latticed bridge on the muchphotographed Carrer del Bisbe. “Where else can you get cheap office space in a place like this?”

We zigzag on, past the looming cathedral, which teems with so many spires it looks like a polygraph test set in stone, and through cobbled Plaça Sant Jaume. In front of the grand Casa de la Ciutat, we look for a group of castellers, multistory human towers that are wildly popular here (presumably for selfies and jailbreaks), but it’s too sticky today for such exertions, so we continue on to the adjacent Plaça de Sant Miquel, where we take in a 90-foot Antoni Llena sculpture that seems to have been built from the world’s largest wire coat hangers. From here, Lynette leads me to the iron and stained-glass entryway of La Boqueria, a monument to the region’s passion for gastronomy. Inside, locals browse stalls selling glossy olives, bouncy mushrooms, Botoxed fruit, wriggling seafood, and heaving slabs of meat. I see a whorl of saffron worth more than my apartment. One stall sells nothing but eggs: white goose eggs, blue duck eggs, green emu eggs, and huge yellow ostrich eggs. At Kiosko Universal, one of the market’s bustling eateries, grilled squid and blistered Padrón peppers are thrown on a busy grill beneath a slightly alarming sculpture made from cutlery. Usually, out of a plateful of these small green peppers only a couple will be fiery, but for some reason, every one of mine goes up to 11. Eyes streaming, I discover the one thing not available at the market: water by the gallon.

A Chinese dragon sign on a former umbrella shop on La Rambla

ham and fried garlic, suckling pig with apricot and pineapple. A vanilla brioche with flaming rum arrives, and while it may not have been meant for my table, it is delicious. It’s past midnight but still warm when I exit the restaurant. Although my bags have already been dispatched to my next hotel, I decide to try the Majestic’s rooftop bar, where a DJ does his best to get the well-groomed clientele to throw shapes around the swimming pool. I’ve noticed that a popular cocktail in Barcelona is a localized version of the Aperol Spritz, in which the vivid orange Italian aperitif is served with ice, soda, and cava, and this seems a good time to try one. I sip the bittersweet drink and watch the Aperol-tinted street below, until I feel myself slumping into an unflattering shape, close to the water’s edge.

Day Two in which boyd sleeps beside an ancient roman wall, impersonates a filmmaker at the sagrada família, and sparks a war of words between two designers

Four stops from the nearby Liceu metro station is the Museu Nacional d ’Art de Catalunya, a palace built on a hilltop for the 1929 International Exposition. Two escalators hidden in the topiary take you some of the way up, but there are still several hundred steps before you reach the museum’s entrance. At the door, they are handing out oxygen masks. No, wait, they’re just audio guides. The exhibits, however, are worth the climb. Among the big draws here are the Romanesque and Gothic works, but I linger over Joaquim Mir’s vivid Modernist landscapes, then pause to covet a gorgeous Jujol cabinet. The most popular spot for selfies is in front of Miró’s Mural per a IBM, 1978, which once brightened the entrance of the computer giant’s local HQ. Now it is worth more than IBM. Another quick metro ride takes me to Gràcia, which has retained its simple charms despite an influx of trendsetters. Rising 110 feet in Vila de Gràcia, the colorful main square, is a stone clock tower surrounded by boys showing off their soccer skills. I have a vermouth in the shade and watch for a bit. I’ve been starving since the Renaissance (all those still-life bowls of quince at the museum), but nobody here seems to eat dinner until two in the morning. The concept of a proper night’s sleep seems alien to Spaniards. Eventually, I arrive at Petit Comitè, on the upmarket Pasaje de la Concepción. Here, Michelin-starred chef Nandu Jubany has created updated versions of a lengthy list of traditional Catalan dishes. I try most of them: l’Escala anchovies and pickled oysters with seaweed, baked monkfish with

Many grand palaces were built along the Roman wall of Barcino, as the Catalan city was known in the Middle Ages. This morning, I wake up in The Mercer, a chichi hotel that has been fashioned out of one of them. Here, famed architect Rafael Moneo has created an extraordinary amalgam of materials and styles. Through the restaurant’s glass floor, I can see the base of the first-century Roman wall, but right now I am distracted by a pastry that has rolled off my table and ended up splatted in the middle of the room. Luckily, there is an adorable moppet in a high chair at the next table. She can take the rap, I decide. Soon I’m heading north to another Gaudí masterpiece, the SurrealistGothic Sagrada Família—which has been under construction since 1882 and won’t be completed until 2026. One look at the vast church and you

I wouldn’t go as far as to call it smugness, but people here know how lucky they are—the weather, the food, the mountains, the sea. Let’s just say they are proud, but with justification.

lynet te kucsma, tech entrepreneur

understand the delay. Comprising eight tapering 328-foot towers (there will be 18 when the project is finished), every inch oozing with detail, every detail an allusion, it looks like several hundred monumental structures rolled into one. As I enter, the woman at the desk mistakes me for a member of a TV crew and fast-tracks me to a Passion Tower. Seeing the line for the tiny elevator, I decide to roll with it. Then she hands me a 28-page contract, which I must sign on every page. “This is just to say you are liable for damage.” Later, inching down the tower’s 350 terrifying corkscrew steps, I’m convinced I’m going to slip and take down everyone ahead of me. I picture the faces of the network’s lawyers when they’re hit with the class-action lawsuit. Love it or hate it, the Sagrada Família is a triumph of structural engineering and a brain-twister for scholars of ecclesiastical symbolism. But it also crowns the architect’s career-spanning celebration of nature: every tile is a honeycomb, every column a tree, every staircase a shell. I crick my neck staring at the ceiling’s frills and jags, the skylights of glowing green and gold, and suddenly wonder how they change the lightbulbs in here. Do they call in the castellers?

“ Barcelona’s treasures tend to be above eye level: multipronged street lamps, licorice balustrades, and Rococo flourishes.” A short cab ride takes me to the Horta-Guinardó district and up to Gaudí’s Park Güell, a 45-acre pleasure garden seemingly landscaped by Dr. Seuss. Teeming with gingerbread houses, kooky water features, and crazy tiled critters, the park is the legacy of Eusabi Güell, a 19th-century industrialist who commissioned Gaudí to build a residential estate on Muntanya Pelada (Bare Mountain). In 1922 the Güell family gifted it to the city, and today it is one of Barcelona’s most popular destinations. Entrance is restricted to 400 visitors in each prebooked 30-minute slot. I am 10 minutes early, and the ticket collector glares at me. Inside, people are clustered around an Imperial staircase, which leads to the Roman-inspired Salon of the Hundred Columns, atop which is a large viewing terrace. Here, I rest on a bench in the form of a sea serpent and enjoy panoramic views of the city. Salvador Dalí called this bench a precursor of Surrealism, but after a morning of wall-to-wall Gaudí, it’s starting to look like run-of-the-mill garden furniture. All these cracked tiles, though, remind me that my unmoisturized head is flaying in the heat. If I sit here any longer, I too will become glazed. After all the stimulation, I decide lunch should be simple, so I turn to London-born chef Alan Stewart, who is getting rave reviews for his year-old restaurant, La Esquina. Part Shoreditch pub, part Soho loft, the eatery bucks Spanish culinary trends by giving vegetables equal billing with meat.

Storefronts in Jackson Heightsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Little India The many architectural marvels of Antoni GaudĂ

A quiet street in El Born

People tend to think that Spain has a machismo culture, but Barcelona women are strong, powerful, and confident. There is always a sexiness about people who dress completely for themselves.

olga menchén, fashion designer (with francesc grau tomàs, right)

“The markets here sell the most fantastic vegetables, yet most places still serve a big chunk of meat with half a tomato,” says Stewart, who came to Barcelona two years ago. The locals seem to have embraced his approach: By 2 p.m., the place is crammed. I get chilled cream of cucumber soup with crusty bread and couscous with pomegranates and feta—but before leaving I discreetly wolf down a plate of robust pork sausages, ignoring the lentils. Onward to El Born, the commercial heart of the medieval city, wedged between the wall and the port. The district, already brimming with galleries and funky shops, is now attracting droves of artisans. I can practically taste leather and single-bean chocolate in the air. Among the great Renaissance mansions of Carrer de Montcada is the cloistered Museu Picasso. Many early works from the Barcelonatrained artist are on display here, including an

1896 self-portrait in which he looks spookily like Prince. One of the pleasures of the museum is seeing how versatile Picasso was: Of all the artworks here, there is very little in the way of messed-up guitars or people with noses on the sides of their heads. Around the corner from here is the Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar, considered the city’s finest and most complete example of Catalan Gothic architecture, on account of its relatively prompt construction. Begun in 1329, this compact church was completed a mere 55 years later. In 1936, during the Spanish Civil War, the interior was burned out, but the soot-blackened vault only heightens the eerie beauty of the space.

“ People here live well every day. They appreciate the food, the weather, the beauty of the place.”

From top: lobster with chanterelles, almonds, and zucchini at Enoteca; Barcelona’s man-made beach; alfresco diners in El Born

At the nearby Super Super Bar, I meet Francesc Grau Tomàs and Olga Menchén, who own Menchén Tomàs, one of Barcelona’s leading fashion labels. Francesc says that design startups are on the rise here, as talented youngsters move to the city. “It takes time for a new generation to learn old techniques, but it is exciting to see,” he says. “Hopefully they won’t all go off and work for Zara.” I ask if Barcelona is a well-dressed city, and Francesc says “yes” at the same time Olga says “no.” They then argue in Spanish (or maybe Catalan?), as I silently sip my sangria, wondering if I’ve just ended their fruitful partnership. “It is stylish compared to other Spanish cities, certainly more than Madrid,” Olga clarifies eventually. “But it is not London or Milan.” Francesc risks adding: “The weather is far hotter here.” “Let’s go for a walk,” I suggest tactfully. Weaving southwest toward the port, they agree that the city is undergoing a period of rapid gentrification, particularly around the patch north of the Passeig de Colom, the wide palm-lined avenue that separates the jumble of Born streets from the port. We stop for more sangria on the roof of The Serras, a Design Hotel that overlooks Port Vell, the marina created for the 1992 Summer Olympics. This fall an outpost of the Manhattan members-only club

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Clockwise from top left: one of the Bernat Picornell swimming pools on Montjuïc; the bridge over the Barri Gòtic’s Carrer del Bisbe; El Born

Soho House is opening in once-seedy Plaça del Duc de Medinaceli. Olga has been quietly reassessing. “The city is getting more stylish,” she declares. And so am I. A little later, in a crisp white linen shirt, I enter Paco Pérez’s Michelin-starred Enoteca, at the seafront Hotel Arts, the sleek latticed skyscraper where I’m staying tonight. Behind my crisp white tablecloth in the all-white room, I all but disappear. I’m surprised no one screams at the sight of my levitating, crazy-tiled head. I order lobster with chanterelles, almonds, and zucchini, followed by “Sole and the Mediterranean Sea,” which is tasty but not as comprehensive as it sounds. I’m also cajoled into getting the white chocolate soup with passion fruit, before a plate of intricate petit fours arrives, reminding me of Park Güell. Later, exhausted and stuffed, I make my way up to my room on the 30th floor. I leave the blinds fully open and fall asleep gazing out at the twinkling harbor lights far below.

Day Three in which boyd meets a movie star, joins a spanish square dance, and eats his way up the food chain

I am swimming alongside a fish. It’s a whopper—170 feet or so from end to end—looming over the pool at the Hotel Arts. Created for the 1992 Olympics, Frank Gehry’s latticed, gold-colored El Peix d’Or is now one of Barcelona’s best-known landmarks. The Catalan capital, famously, used to be a city with its back to the sea. Before the Olympic Games, this area was largely wasteland. The Port Olímpic marina was created from scratch, part of a $12 billion makeover that included shipping in enough sand to extend the city’s

beach at Barceloneta—the wedge-shaped district bordered by El Born, the sea, and the Port Vell site—to three miles. Post-swim, I stroll along a boardwalk past rows of restaurants and shops selling seafood and souvenirs. It’s all very orderly—what Cancún might look like if it were run by the Swiss—but it’s remarkable that there even is a beach here, four short metro stops from Plaça Catalunya, Barcelona’s bustling answer to Times Square.

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I stop for a café con leche at Vai Moana, a “gourmet beach bar” on Bogatell beach, about half a mile from Port Olímpic. My server, Luciana, seems mildly surprised that I’m not ordering anything stronger. “The Spanish come late in the afternoon for drinks,” she says. “Tourists are more likely to have a gin and tonic for breakfast.” From here, Gehry’s sculpture glistens like a huge carp bobbing along on the sea. I take the metro from Ciutadella Vila Olímpica to the Passeig de Gràcia. I am having brunch at a curious place called L’Eggs. Owned by Paco Perez, the restaurant is a plush upmarket joint serving eclectic local fare. The ingredient that binds most things on the menu—often literally—is eggs. Everything looks good, but, inspired by my earlier

“ People tend to talk in hushed tones. Maybe it’s because they always feel as if they’re extras on a film set.” exertions in the pool, I opt for restraint, ordering Andalusian-style baked eggs with baby cuttlefish and tartar sauce, followed by cubes of fried hake with a creamy miso mayonnaise. Then the wry German chef, Alexander Stelzer, foils me. “Try a crema catalana,” he suggests, delivering a ramekin of rich orange-flavored custard with a caramelized crust. I can hear my belt straining with every spoonful. I take a redemptive stroll toward the galleries and boutiques that have sprung up around the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, in the once seedy El Raval district. This modern, glass-fronted building is a nod to Le Corbusier in a city dominated by Gaudí. Inside, I pause before a five-pound note, and the face of Queen Elizabeth, upon which the German artist Hans-Peter Feldmann has added a clown nose. It’s part of an exhibition exploring punk’s influence on visual culture—although

When you are making a film here, you’re seen as preserving cultural identity, so there is a real familial feeling among the entire cast and crew. It starts to feel less about doing a job and more about lifestyle.

danielle schleif film producer

Tapas at Bar del Pla

for that you can simply look at the street art sprayed on every wall outside. From here, I wander through another roughand-ready district, Poble-sec, which is becoming a stomping ground for the creative classes and adventurous Airbnb-ers. In charming Plaça del Sortidor, children run around the fountain while old men chat quietly on the benches. I realize that people tend to talk in hushed tones in Barcelona. Maybe General Francisco Franco’s rule, which lasted from the late 1930s to 1975, took its toll, or maybe it’s because they always feel as if they’re extras on a film set. The metro from Poble-sec takes me to Liceu, on La Rambla, from which I make my way back through the Barri Gòtic. I stop for a mint tea at a brasserie in the magnificently porticoed Plaça Reial, with its palm trees and central fountain between two elaborate lampposts designed by you-know-who. I’m heading for the beloved tapas joint Bar del Pla to meet film producer Danielle Schleif, a New Yorker married to a local man. I find her seated next to David Verdaguer, star of Danielle’s steamy rom-com 10,000 Km. Over mojama (salt-cured tuna), suckling pig with tomatoes, and wine from the local grape Xarel•lo, the actor describes how he moved here from Girona 17 years ago, and how the city still fills him with delight.

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By the Numbers 1.6 million Population of Barcelona

9 million Tourists who visit the city every year

2 “People here know how to enjoy life,” he says. “They don’t work insanely hard and then have a big blowout at weekends. They have perfected moderation. People live well every day. They appreciate everything—the food, the weather, the beauty of the place.” “You never leave your apartment,” Danielle teases him. “I come here all the time,” he says, hugging the sommelier as she passes. He gestures at the muddle of alleys around us, which is more than an open-air museum, he says: It is a real, living community, inhabited by “princes and thieves.” I think he means that the neighborhood is diverse. Danielle and I have a table booked for dinner uptown, so we decide on a leisurely walk, which takes us past the cathedral. On the steps, a brass band is playing, and the plaza is filled with locals dancing the sardana. The routine involves circles of people joining hands and raising them as they move with small, precise steps, around and around. As others join, and the circle gets too large, it splits into another one, until the entire square is a mass of slowly spinning bodies. “The sardana is a powerful symbol of Catalan unity and pride,” Danielle says. “Although,” she adds in a stage whisper, “it’s hard to believe that such an attractive people have a dance that is this unsexy.” We are heading for BistrEau, run by the Michelin-starred “Chef of the Sea,” Ángel León, at the Mandarin Oriental. Sitting beneath a metal lattice that filters light, there’s a sense that we are underwater. We opt for the ominous-sounding Discovery Menu, and the waiter asks if I have any allergies. I’ve noticed they serve plankton here. “We’ll see,” I mumble. It turns out that I can eat plankton (and cockles in seawater jelly, squid-ink risotto, sea snails, and even raw shrimp), so I’ll be fine when it turns out to be the next superfood. “My husband would love it here,” Danielle says.

City origin stories for Barcelona: One version claims the city was founded by Hercules in the fourth century BC; the other says Hamilcar Barca founded it in the third century BC

1 Cities that have won the Royal Institute of British Architects’ gold medal, an award that usually goes to individuals instead of destinations

9 UNESCO world heritage sites in the city—seven of which were created by Antoni Gaudí

“I’m sure there are some things here that even he hasn’t tried.” I smile, discreetly trying to dislodge a barnacle from the roof of my mouth. After eating our way through the first few links of the food chain, we head for the Caribbean Club, a wood-paneled rum bar midway down a narrow back lane in a 12th-century building in El Raval. The joint is so small there are only four stools; two are occupied by heavily tattooed women, and we perch awkwardly on the other two. My cocktail seems to contain only alcohol, and I am suddenly grateful there is nowhere for me to fall—I can prop myself against the bar, the wall, or an extra from Orange Is the New Black. When we stumble out of the bar, around 3 a.m., the grittily beautiful streets are full of young people laughing and talking. No one appears particularly drunk or bedraggled. It just seems nobody wants to go home. As David Verdaguer said, people here have nailed the art of enjoying themselves. Berlin-based writer Boyd Farrow attempted to follow the Spanish dining schedule, but had to give it up when he started having dinner for breakfast. BOARDING PASS United offers year-round nonstop service to Barcelona from New York/Newark and summerseason service from Washington/Dulles, with convenient connections from other cities in the airline’s route network. Book your ﬂight on united.com or United’s mobile app.

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Q&A with Laverne Cox

Breaking Through The Orange Is the New Black star is transforming American minds one revolutionary role at a time by richard morgan

hen Laverne Cox landed her breakthrough role as imprisoned hairdresser Sophia Burset on Netflix’s ensemble dramedy Orange Is the New Black, she kept her part-time gig as a server at Lucky Cheng’s, a salty drag restaurant on New York’s scruffy Lower East Side. She was unsure that America was ready for a black transgender TV star—let alone a show about life in a women’s prison. She multitasks as a matter of instinct. In the years since, Cox has smashed boundaries, becoming the first transgender person to be nominated for an Emmy, as well as the first to appear on the cover of Time magazine. But perhaps her greatest achievement thus far is that she’s helping America itself to transition. Trans life is,

Hemispheres : I’m looking at your autumn schedule, and you’re so busy! For someone who has spent so much of her life being told to be invisible, what’s it like to now have all this newfound visibility? Laverne Cox: I’ve never been a person who blends into the background. I’m 5'11" without heels. I have a big presence. When I walk into spaces or down the street, I’ve always been noticed. So there’s that piece of being hypervisible, but then being underrepresented in media. What I’ve been cognizant of since this rise started with Orange Is the New Black is that this is not just about me. This is about other trans people having their voices amplified. Everyone has a voice, but everyone doesn’t have a platform to amplif y that voice. [Now] we’re being spoken to

if not yet broadly embraced, at least widely discussed. This fall, Cox, 32, is starting conversations on multiple fronts. In addition to her ongoing efforts as an LGBTQ activist and her role on Orange Is the New Black continuing to shed light on transgender issues, this month she stars as Dr. Frank-N-Furter in Fox’s reboot of The Rocky Horror Picture Show. And later this season, she’ll play Cameron Wirth, an Ivy League–educated lawyer on the CBS drama Doubt, the first network series with a regular transgender character. In the midst of this whirlwind season, we caught up with Cox to discuss her newfound exposure, the pitfalls of sexiness, learning to love her voice, and, yes, karaoke. She has the range.

and having a voice, not just being spoken about. H: On Orange Is the New Black and Doubt, you play a trans woman. In Rocky Horror, you’re playing a transvestite. But do you ever want to just go for “women’s” roles? LC: Well, it’s not just about what I go for—it’s about what people approach me to play. But w ith Frank-N-Furter, I would say that she identifies as a transvestite, but she’s also an alien, and she’s a scientist, and she’s a lover, you know? By night she’s one hell of a lover [laughs]. And one of the things I want to say about the term “transvestite” is that in the 1970s trans women who had not fully medically transitioned referred to themselves as transvestites. So the way we understand the term

transvestite today is not the same way we would have understood the term in the 1970s. H: How does your trans identity factor

into your development of characters? L C : My question is, Does the character become trans automatically because I’m playing her? The character becomes a black woman when I play her, because I’m black and don’t stop being black when I’m playing a part, even though the character may not have been written for a black woman. If the character is not written for a trans woman, does she become trans because I’m trans? I don’t know what the answer to that is, but what I do know is that I want to continue, God willing. They might be trans roles, it might not specify, and it might not matter!

Q&A with Laverne Cox

H: The first challenge is acknowl-

edgement and awareness. After that, it’s about moving beyond awareness and developing some actual closeness. On Orange Is the New Black, Sophia spent much of season four in solitary confinement in the SHU (Security Housing Unit), which took you out of your comfort zone of playing the sociable hairdresser and let you be psychological and intimate and vulnerable in a way that was new. LC: When we got the scripts for this last season, I was like, “Oh, wow, they’re going there. This is big!” Because solitary conf inement is really horrific, a terrible thing to do to a human being. It breaks people. So, when I got the storyline, I was like, “This is a huge responsibility.” Not much dialogue, but physicality through behavior. It required me to dig really deep into that place where I might not want to survive, because the circumstances a re really, really dire. It’s a darkness that I’ve personally known. H: You mean when you attempted suicide at 11? LC: And other times in my life as well. To tap into that is scary, because it’s really dark. Just because the director has said “cut” does

not mean that those feelings go away. Being intimate is part of what we do as artists, and that is my challenge as an actor: to always try to go deeper and to reveal more through these characters.

about Cameron is the firm she works for: It’s a firm that fights for the underdog. She’s dealing with these systems that are really effed up, you know? The criminal justice system is deeply f lawed. That conf lict has been fun and tricky to play so far.

H: On the flip side, on your upcom-

ing CBS series Doubt, you play an Iv y League–educated law yer. It seems significant that not only are you not a prisoner, you’re playing a trans character who is successful and happy. And you finally get to play with outfits! LC: [Laughs.] It’s exciting! But high heels hurt after you’ve been on set for, like, 12, 13-plus hours. Over the years, I have met so many trans people who are attorneys, so it’s not really unusual. H : T he W h ite Hou s e L GB T

liaison, Raffi Freedman-Gurspan, is a trans woman. We’re in such a trans moment. Your push for equality reminds me of a Cornel West quote that I know you like: “Justice is what love looks like.” LC: “What love looks like in public.” Yes! Cameron’s an attorney, but she’s also a trans woman, and she’s a black woman, and she’s working in corporate America. What’s wonderful

“Just because the director has said ‘cut’ does not mean that those feelings go away.” H: And then there’s Dr. Frank-N-

Furter in Rocky Horror, who is the opposite of an underdog. It’s such brash camp fun. I love the look. It’s like Grace Jones meets David Bowie. LC: [Laughs.] You’re not the first person to say this—someone else said, “If Grace Jones and David Bowie had a love child…” I love that everyone’s seeing that! They were all over the mood board. H: Was it hard to play a character so many of us already know and love? LC: Oh yeah, the pressure! Tim Curry’s performance [in the original] is so legendary, it’s so iconic, and it’s something that I have looked to over the years, way before I was even considered for this part. It’s something that I lived for, something that helped form me in my adolescence. CONTINUED ON PAGE 83

YANN RABANIER/MODDS/CPI SYNDICATION (OPENER); TRUNK ARCHIVE (THIS PAGE)

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by joshua hersh photography by daniel coburn

At on Home

Stepping back in time with the members of the American Mountain Men association t’s early afternoon on a Sunday, and the mountain men of the Missouri River Brigade are hungry. This intrepid crew has been camped along a small stream in central Kansas for two days now. All around them, the Flint Hills glimmer in the hot sun with specks of rock— perfect for making arrowheads or sparking a fire—but down in the shade of the trees, the men have found cool and quiet. The great Santa Fe Trail and its bustling 1,200-mile route from Independence, Missouri, to the Mexican frontier passes not far away, but the men aren’t pressed to go anywhere just now. Instead, there’s ample time for rest, for hunting, for skinning beavers and preparing the pelts for sale or use. A few of the men are off in a field tending to their horses. Others are studying a booklet of Native American signs—a few gestures could make all the difference in an encounter with an unknown tribe. Now and then, the flap of the whiskey tent pops open. It’s never too early for a nip of shrub or Taos Lightning, a potent frontier booze made of rye, cayenne pepper, tobacco, and a touch of gunpowder. Around the fire, John Varcoe is sitting on a damp log, getting in a late shave. The 68-year-old deftly pulls a straight razor across his face and wipes the blade clean on a soft leaf. A rusty tin of tallow that he rendered sits on his lap, and he dips into it to lubricate his face as he shaves. The blade crinkles as it slides across his face, leaving a glossy sheen behind, along with a couple of bloody nicks. “Anyone have a sewing kit handy?” he asks, only half joking. Missouri Jim, the camp’s main chef, is so busy he hardly registers the remark. Finally finished cleaning up from breakfast (bacon and rice), he’s already started with the evening’s stew (bison is on the menu) while at the same time keeping the coffee pot full. Before he does so he lays the beans—still in their small burlap bag—on a log and pounds them with the back of a hatchet. “Don’t have to be perfect,” he mutters. “So long as it’s black and hot.” Andrew Battles, who is 49 years old, is focused on his midday snack. He’s wearing leather pants, a brown cotton smock, and a blue bandanna that he’s tied around his bald head, and he pulls a Sheffield butcher knife from the belt at his waist. A small piece of elk meat rests before him, and he uses the sharp knife to trim away some of the fat. “Salt and pepper and garlic is all you need to cook with,” Battles announces, as he attaches the hunk of meat to a steel hook that hangs low over the embers of the fire. One of the men, sitting around the fire cleaning his rifle, is nonplussed. “I don’t eat salt much anymore,” he says. “I get heartburn.”

the

Range

Battles is curious. Heartburn? “Have you tried sleeping on your side?” he asks. “I’ve tried it all,” the man replies. “I’m on a diet now.” “A diet.” Battles ponders this for a moment. “Which one? Atkins? South Beach?” Across the fire pit, Varcoe puts his shaving kit away and tuts quietly. “Come on, guys,” he pleads. “It’s the 1800s.” The men nod solemnly and return to their tasks. t is not, in fact, the 1800s. It’s a late spring day in 2016, and the figures around the campfire are not exactly mountain men, at least not in the traditional sense. They’re members of an association called the American Mountain Men, an organization that was founded almost 50 years ago to celebrate and preserve the traditions of America’s great frontiersmen of the early 19th century. In his real life, Andrew Battles is the director of critical care and the head of the emergency department at Liberty Hospital, outside Kansas City. During these events, which they call rendezvous after the annual trade fairs that helped sustain the original mountain men, the AMM members take verisimilitude very seriously. They use only the tools of the era and practice skills that were essential at the time (fire-starting and sign language

chief among them). The only modern items permitted at a rendezvous are medicines and cameras—a concession to the collective desire to share the experience on Facebook.

“ The members of the American Mountain Men association take verisimilitude very seriously.” The original mountain men, trappers and explorers of limitless ambition and sometimes reckless abandon, lived lives that often seem to have been filled to the brim with intrigue, discovery, and adventure. Their exploits survive in the form of myth and fable and famous names still taught to schoolchildren: Meriwether Lewis, William Clark, Kit Carson. Perhaps none is better known nowadays than Hugh Glass, the Pennsylvania-born fur trader whose dramatic story of extreme survival was portrayed by Leonardo DiCaprio (to the tune of an Oscar for best actor) in last year’s box-office hit The Revenant. The early mountain men were the first Americans to venture systematically into the terrain west of the Mississippi River that was acquired in the 1803 Louisiana Purchase. Setting forth from the outpost town of St. Louis, they crisscrossed the frontier in search of water routes to the Pacific Ocean and uncharted mountain peaks. (In Eastern cities at the time, the Appalachians were thought to be the highest range on the continent.) They met and made deals with native tribes, occasionally setting off skirmishes that would lead to full-scale war and conquest.

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In the process, they built up an industry of beaver-pelt trading that made many of them quite wealthy, until the trade’s collapse in the 1840s. (Buffalo pelts remained in fashion for a few more decades, until overhunting led to the species’s near extinction.) It was an often harsh existence, but for the men drawn to the uncharted mountains, the appeal was irresistible. Take the mountaineer and beaver trapper Edward Robinson. In early 1811, he and his crew left their camp in the Grand Tetons and made their way back east after a severe and trying winter. A few weeks later, Robinson and his crew

were halfway home when they encountered a group of some 60 men camped alongside the Missouri River. The men were headed west, planning to search for a route to the Pacific. For a night, Robinson and his crew rested with the men and swapped stories. The next morning, despite all the distance they had traveled and inspired by the prospect of new adventure, Robinson and his crew turned their caravan around and headed back west.

“ We’ll be out here and someone will say, ‘What day is it? Monday? Tuesday?’ And no one knows.” he members of the AMM describe a similar pull from the frontier. In 1984, Eddie Rector retired from a stint as a sniper in the Army’s elite Ranger regiment and returned to his farm in Kentucky. He was 24 years old, and he was unsure what to do next. War and the military life had taken their toll, but everyday life felt so ordinary. Back at his farm, Rector found himself curious about the frontier battles of early American times, especially those of the French and Indian War of 1754–’63. Those held a particular significance for him, as they involved the origins

AMM events, as a junior member, and he had been teaching him some of the secrets of survival in the wild. Then, at the funeral, about a dozen AMM members showed up. The gesture bonded Rector firmly to the group. “That showed me right here that these were men of impeccable character,” he says. Now he comes to the rendezvous as a “kind of a remembrance thing and an honor thing” for Koda. “It brings back good memories of him, instead of the bad memories I have at home. That’s what we loved to do. We did it together.”

“ With the stress and troubles of life—to get to come out here and forget all that, it’s just special.”

of a specialized militia unit called Rogers’ Rangers—a precursor to Rector’s former regiment. One day, a neighbor introduced Rector to antique-style riflemaking, and he soon found himself drawn to a new passion: period-accurate leatherworks and crafts. A few years later, he joined the AMM. “We’ll be out here, and someone will say, ‘What day is it? Monday? Tuesday?’ And no one knows,” Rector says as he sits by the fire at the Kansas rendezvous, polishing his rifle. He’s dressed in a tricorn hat and colonial-style clothes. “Ain’t it wonderful?” In 2003, the communal aspect of the association proved unexpectedly vital to Rector. That year, his son, Koda, who was then 16, accidentally shot and killed himself. Rector was devastated, and for a while he wasn’t sure how he would carry on. He had recently started taking Koda with him to

He pauses for a moment, then adds, “It doesn’t mean you forget. I think about my son every day that I’m out here. But everything becomes so much more manageable. You just take life as it’s dealt.” He continues, “This whole organization can save your life, and it’s not just learning how to start a fire. With the stress and troubles of life—to get to come out here and forget all that, it’s just special. I had a lot of bad dreams in my normal life, but when I’m out here it all goes away.”

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After instructing Chase to cut off the beavers’ paws, Nestor explains what to do next: “You’ll want to make an incision up the middle just here, cutting all the way up to the jaw, and leaving on the handle”—the tail. “And try not to cut into the castor sacs. If you do, it’s not a disaster, but you better not if you want to be able to eat the meat.” Nestor has plans for the beaver’s pungent glands. He might use them as bait for beavers and other animals. The skinning is slow, laborious work. Chase begins with precision, nicking delicately at the flesh, but soon turns to brute force, pulling the skin away roughly from the body. The goal is a clean pelt: no holes other than those left by the legs and eyes. For the next several minutes, he and Nestor are wrist-deep in rodent guts. “Hell of a nice job for a first beaver, Tony,” Nestor says as Chase finally separates the last bit of skin from muscle and prepares the pelt for the even gorier stage known as “fleshing,” in which the remaining fat, muscle, and connective tissue are removed from the skin. Nestor steps back and pauses for a moment, taking in the atmosphere. The woods around him are abuzz with activity. A fire burns at one campsite, while men slip in and out of the nearby whiskey tent. Missouri Jim sidles past holding the fur-covered leg of a deer that he’ll chop up for the evening’s stew. Shots ring out from someone practicing with his flintlock rifle. A few horses whinny in the fields. Nestor barely seems to notice that his hands are coated in dark red blood and dripping with animal bits. “It doesn’t get much better than this, does it?” he says. “This is life as it ought to be lived.”

he next morning at the Kansas campsite, Andrew Battles is gone—back to the real world and his shift at the hospital. The schedule of events for Monday is sparse: beaver skinning: am; indian stirrups: pm. For Tony Chase, the beaver skinning is the main attraction. Chase, who is dressed in knee-high leather moccasin boots, a fraying blue frock, and a red bandanna, is still a probationary member of the AMM, and skinning a beaver is one of the tasks required for formal membership. “I’ve done a deer and a bear before, but never a beaver,” he says, as he ponders the belly-up creature before him. “I reckon every animal has his own way of skinning.” Tom Nestor, a towering 57-year-old Kansan, looks on, nodding. Nestor, dressed in a pink top and a beaver-felt hat that he decorated with purple wampum beads, is the resident beaver-skinning expert. A long-distance truck driver by profession, Nestor trapped these animals in his spare time a few months earlier, using old-fashioned steel traps, and stored them in a freezer for use during the rendezvous. “I tell my wife that I see a lot of life at 70 miles per hour. I don’t often get to see it at five miles per hour,” Nestor says in a deep, methodical drawl. He often uses the time on the road to daydream about getting out to the woods. “This life, it’s my freedom.”

When writer Joshua Hersh isn’t wearing buckskin and sipping Taos Lightning in rural Kansas, he lives in New York City.

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London Calling Will the NFL bring American football to England permanently? by joe delessio il lu s t r at i o n by d a m i e n w e i g h i l l

n October 27, 2007, the New York Giants defeated the Miami Dolphins 13-10 in a football game that was almost completely unremarkable. The field was a sloppy mess, Miami started the not-exactly-immortal Cleo Lemon at quarterback, and while New York countered with Eli Manning, who would go on to win Super Bowl MVP a few months later, he threw for just 59 yards. The game would have been quickly forgotten for what happened on the field—except for the field it was played on. That would be Wembley Stadium, in London, which became the first city outside North America to host a regular-season NFL game. Despite any objections to on-field aesthetics, the jaunt across the pond was an unquestioned success: 40,000 tickets to the game sold in just 90 minutes, and the total attendance exceeded 80,000. Buoyed by the result, the NFL International Series has since become an annual tradition, with two

and then three games played at Wembley each year. This year, the NFL continues to expand its reach: For the first time, the league’s slate of London games will be played at two different venues, with games at Wembley on October 2 and 30 and one at the home of England’s national rugby team, Twickenham Stadium, on the 23rd. And, with an agreement in place to schedule games at the future home of soccer club Tottenham Hotspur, the NFL will play at least four regular season contests in London starting in 2018. The NFL isn’t the only North American sports league to play regular-season games in far-flung locales—the NBA, NHL, and MLB have all done it—but the league’s consistent focus on London has led many to wonder if the city could one day be home to its own team. This isn’t idle speculation: It’s something that league executives have seriously discussed. Mark Waller, the NFL’s executive vice president in charge of international business, acknowledges that the league may be close to its domestic saturation point (meaning that it can’t get much more popular in the U.S. than it already is). In order to continue to grow, the league has turned its attention to the rest of the world. “It’s hard to imagine long-term success if you don’t have some form of global equity,” Waller says. Those efforts are about to broaden. Last year, NFL owners approved a resolution allowing the league to play international games in countries other than the U.K. through 2025, with the Houston Texans and the Oakland Raiders playing the first of those this November 21, at Mexico City’s Estadio Azteca. But the league has long viewed London as the most attractive target for international expansion. It’s a big media market, and Waller says the population there has proven it can embrace multiple sports. The common language eliminates a potential complication with playing in a foreign city, and though London didn’t have much history with American football before the NFL began bringing teams over for games, it did have some fans dating back to when the league was first shown on TV there in the 1980s. (London also had a team in the World League of American Football, later called NFL Europe, in the 1990s.) There are several obvious benefits to having a franchise in London. It would further heighten the league’s profile in Europe, and Waller says there would be a “first-mover advantage” to being the first U.S. league to expand there. Waller, who was raised in Wales, adds that a London

franchise would represent not just the city but all of Britain: “It would tap into a part of the British psyche you see in the Ryder Cup, which is we like to compete against the Americans—and occasionally win.” However, locating a franchise across the Atlantic also presents significant challenges, many of which have become evident in the one-off games the league has staged there in recent years. Just getting the teams to London involves all sorts of logistical issues, beyond merely jet lag. When the New York Jets traveled to London for a game last year, they brought 350 rolls of toilet paper so that players wouldn’t be stuck with the thinner variety used in England. Some supplies were sent over on an ocean freighter months in advance. Waller says that when the league began planning the first overseas game nine years ago, they spent a half hour talking about electrical plugs.

“A London team would tap into a part of the British psyche: We like to compete against the Americans.” The concerns go beyond logistics. The parity-obsessed NFL is worried about teams feeling the aftereffects of transatlantic trips. (Given the league’s 16-game season, even one jet-lagged week can really hurt a team.) There’s the not-insignificant question of cost. And then there’s the biggest issue. As Waller puts it, “Will the fans really respond to a sport that isn’t domestically indigenous to that market?” The NFL says it would need roughly six or seven million fans in the U.K. for a London franchise to be viable, which would make football one of the top five sports in the country, along with motor racing, rugby, and cricket. (The other football, aka soccer, is of course king.) Out of those six or seven million, Waller says around a half-million fans would need to be within two and a half hours of the city to build a sufficient season-ticket base. Those goals are still a ways from becoming reality—the league estimates that it has roughly 3.5 million to 4 million fans in the U.K., with 350,000 to 400,000 within that

two-and-a-half-hour radius of London—but Waller says the NFL’s popularity is “really growing quite well.” More than 100 games will be broadcast live in the U.K. this year, and while you can’t necessarily walk into any London pub on a Sunday and expect to catch a game of American football on TV, Paolo Bandini, a London journalist who covers the NFL for the Guardian, says that “the number of those that exist is exponentially bigger than it was when I was a teenager looking for the sport.” Bandini likes London’s chances of getting a team someday: “I think it’ll happen eventually. That’s just the way the wind’s blowing.” Alistair Kirkwood, the managing director of the NFL’s U.K. office, notes that the league’s fanbase there has grown about threefold over the past decade, but he doesn’t necessarily think a London franchise is an inevitability. “I think that would suggest that we’re being complacent or maybe drinking our own Kool-Aid too much,” he says. His job isn’t to lobby for a London team, he says, so much as it is to grow the fanbase in order to one day give the league’s owners that option. Still, Waller says the owners have already had “serious to very serious” discussions about just that option. He even has a possible timeline in mind: “I’d like to think that by 2020 we would have the numbers in place where, if our ownership wanted to make that decision, they could.” Joe DeLessio is a journalist from New York City. He thinks touchdowns in London should be worth 4.62 points, to correspond with the exchange rate.

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Animal Lit

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you fill in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced. Answers on page 76

BY GREG BRUCE

99. 101. 104. 106. 108. 109. 111. 119. 120. 122. 123. 125. 126. 127. 128. 129. 130. 131. 132.

Used a broom Gave a guarantee Wide-spouted jug Label Beluga yield Execute, FrenchRevolution-style Fiver’s vision locale Like Death Valley A long way off Professional parker “So long” Baptism or bris Mold into shape Partner of each Fictional work Crystal ball user Guitarist Anastasio Change the decor Bank (on)

DOWN 1. Captain’s journal 2. Cast-of-thousands film 3. Desire 4. Russian parliament 5. Chimney accumulation 6. Border on 7. Kiss frontman 8. Linkletter and Carney 9. Without excitement 10. Underwater gear, briefly 11. Pantry pest 12. Marsh plant 13. Definition 14. White Fang’s setting 15. Far from fresh 16. Give an edge to 18. Lamebrain 19. Clobbered 27. Time delay 28. Undersized 30. Member of the flock 33. Not a soul 35. Ruler unit 36. Alpha ___ 37. Poker holding 38. Bed-and-breakfast 39. Years and years 40. Boost

41. Waikiki wear 43. Black-and-white vehicle, often 46. Ben Jonson wrote one to himself 47. Sprinkle with drops 49. Radiant 50. Devout 52. Circus regular 53. Fit for living 55. Kind of cow 56. Loaﬁng 58. Understand 61. Pearl Jam’s debut 63. Proton’s place 64. Onion’s kin 65. “___ been real” 67. Woodworker’s tool 68. Threesome

69. 70. 71. 72. 73. 74. 79. 80. 81. 82. 83. 84. 85. 88. 90. 92. 95. 98.

Door part “Dally” starter American ___ Former Speaker Gingrich Philosopher’s study Hold title to Live’s partner Cashless deal Bulk “What ___ the odds?” Petri dish ﬁller Prepare for a rainy day Pay attention to Have a tab African antelope Hemophiliac Blue moon, e.g. Geologic time period

99. 100. 102. 103. 104. 105. 107. 109. 110. 112. 113. 114. 115. 116. 117. 118. 121. 124.

Excessively ﬂattering Freshly painted Absorb, with “up” Alternative to a convertible Like The X-Files Stuart Little author With it Watering holes? Wacky At any time Four-star review Kind of dog Life-saver Carbon monoxide’s lack Take as a bride Coward of the stage Gift-tag word Stallone’s nickname

CROSSWORD © PUZPUZ PUZZLES

ACROSS 1. Raunchy 5. It’s a long story 9. Old autocrat 13. Don’t believe it 17. Kind of den 19. On the wagon 20. High school breakout 21. Continental capital 22. Doohickey (Brit. var.) 23. Jockey’s ride 24. Saying nothing 25. Similar to 26. Wilbur’s book 29. Indicate 31. Acorn producer 32. Pizzazz 34. Red or white 35. Encroach on 39. Back street 42. Ready for business 44. Chicken tikka add-on 45. Range stray, perhaps 47. Serpent 48. Mountain pass 51. Assure victory 54. Lacking 57. Band booking 59. 2013 Spike Jonze ﬁlm 60. Up-to-the-minute 62. Calculator, at times 63. Skin soother 64. Brain section 65. ___ of Man 66. Decide to quit 68. Classic Kenneth Grahame work 74. Show the ropes to 75. Middle of March 76. Take for a ride 77. Blink of an eye 78. Permit 80. Tribal spiritualist 83. Shade of blonde 86. Peck at 87. Quasimodo’s workplace 89. Bob Marley genre 91. Cotillion V.I.P. 93. Place 94. Thin cracker 96. Church section 97. Look like a wolf

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On the nature of celebrity in the middle of nowhere china I’m standing in a soggy field in Hunan Province, surrounded by people in bright traditional costumes milling around at the end of a rain-soaked grape festival. Suddenly, I hear a shout in Mandarin. I look up from the puddles I’ve been unsuccessfully avoiding. A man stares at me for a second or two, then runs off across the field. China is riddled with arcane social rules, but I’m pretty sure I haven’t done anything to offend anyone, let alone scare them away. Moments later, the man returns with a small child, presumably his son. He thrusts the boy into my arms, then says something I have no hope of understanding. Juggling the child and an umbrella, I smile and deliver one of my five Mandarin words: “Ni-hao,” or “hello.” By now, it’s clear what’s going on. International tourists are common in Shanghai, Beijing, and near Xi’an’s terracotta warriors, but attract curiosity in many other parts of the country. From noodle bars to rural festivals, foreigners, bewildered by their sudden celebrity, often find themselves being commandeered for photo-ops. No surprise, then, that a small crowd has gathered in this field, personal devices at the ready, to commemorate the presence of the Western woman with the muddy shoes. The kid, who seems to have been through this before, forms his fingers into the peace symbol and holds it next to his toothy grin. Just then, the boy’s father, looking over the shoulder of a woman capturing the moment on her phone, breaks into rapid-fire Mandarin and starts flapping his arms. I’m not sure if it’s because he thinks I’m about to drop his son or if he just wants the boy to look at the camera. Finally, the man smiles, says “Shyeh-shyeh”—“thanks”—and reclaims his child. Camera clicks follow me all the way back to my bus. —JOHANNA READ twilightcreationsinc.com ©2016 “Zombies!!! Jr.” is copyright and trademark property of Twilight Creations, Inc. All rights reserved.

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d i s pat c h e s News and Notes From Around the World

Altered Estate Warped perspectives at the House of Eternal Return new mexico Two teenage girls walk cautiously into the living room

PAUL ROSS

of a two-story Victorian house in Santa Fe, just in time to see a man disappear into the fireplace. In the kitchen, a woman beckons and says, “Come with me.” The girls exchange looks, then follow the woman into the refrigerator. So it goes at the House of Eternal Return, a hybrid art installation, fun house, and interactive mystery theater. The labyrinthine, weirdly ambitious project was opened earlier this year by art collective Meow Wolf, in a disused bowling alley owned by Game of Thrones author George R.R. Martin (who also provided funding). Its creators describe it as a “multiverse of unexpected environments.” Each room in the 20,000-square-foot space is designed to disorient; the result is a bizarre world of oddly tapering furniture, multicolored trees, holographic aliens, and secret portals. While the temptation is to wander around with your mouth open, visitors are also invited to solve a riddle: Who was the family that once lived in this house, and what caused them to disappear? “Can we get a guide?” a visiting priest asks Chadney Everett, the project’s lead designer, when they meet in a narrow space murkily illuminated with ultraviolet light. “Nope,” Everett replies. “You co-create the experience with us as you guide yourself. No one else will ever have your exact experience.” Nearby, a woman stoops over a toilet bowl. “This is the damnedest toilet,” she says, peering with an expression of concern at the surrounding tile floor, which appears to ripple like the surface of a pond. “Something really bad happened to that missing family.” —JUDIE FEIN

d i s pat c h e s News and Notes From Around the World

Splash Decisions A Spanish court solves irrigation disputes the (very) old-fashioned way spain It’s Thursday morning, just before noon,

An old craft moves toward equality ohio The clanging is about to start at Doug

Lockhart’s forge in Logan, a short ride up into the Hocking Hills from Cincinnati. Lockhart, a 53-year-old blacksmith, has a heavy beard and forearms that would do Popeye proud, and today he’s showing how to transform a railroad spike into a knife that will sell for $175. He runs regular workshops here, passing on the craft that he learned as a young man—albeit with one big adjustment. “Women make the best students,” Lockhart says. “You give a man a hammer, and he’ll do what a man does: He’ll wind up and smash as hard as he can.” He demonstrates with his ball-peen—clang! “The piece is going to end up ruined and back in the fire.” It’s good, then, that the co-owner of the business is Lockhart’s daughter, Danielle Russell. A slight, softspoken woman who turns 22 this month, she has been training for seven years and has become a capable smith—though that’s not the only thing she does here. “I feed the chickens, goats, and draft horses,” she says. “I’m also building a web presence for us.” Lockhart, meanwhile, is finishing up his knife. He plunges the glowing blade into a barrel of mucky water (a blacksmith never flushes out the trough), sending up an angry hiss of steam. “There’s a little piece of everything I’ve worked on in that water,” he says. Danielle then takes up the hammer, spraying sparks with every strike. “A woman uses her body and focuses her strength; she’ll feel her way through the iron,” Lockhart says. “When I say someone swings like a girl, it’s the best compliment I can offer.” —JOHN SCOTT LEWINSKI

JOHN CUMMINGS (WATER TRIBUNAL)

Smiths Like a Girl

and the crowd in the center of Valencia’s Plaza de la Virgen is already quite large. Near the 13th-century Apostles Gate, onlookers huddle around a circular fenced-in area containing eight leather chairs. When the clock strikes 12, a nearby door opens. Eight men in short black robes, led by a bailiff with a brass pike, make their way to the chairs and sit. “Claimants from the Quart Aqueduct,” calls out the bailiff in Valencian, the local language. He surveys the crowd for a moment, then repeats the cry. “Claimants from the Quart Aqueduct!” When no one steps forward, he calls claimants on the next case. The Tribunal de les Aigües de la Vega de Valéncia—Valencia’s Water Tribunal—is said to be the world’s oldest active court of law. Having started under Muslim rule in the 10th century, the tribunal has survived the Christian Reconquista, the Spanish Civil War, and, most recently, the internet. It meets here weekly to settle disputes involving irrigation, water distribution, and canal maintenance. Along with being a prized cultural asset—the tribunal is on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list—this remains an important judicial body, able to quickly and definitively settle conflicts that might otherwise get ugly. “Although simple and based on old customs, it works well,” says court officer María José Olmos Rodrigo. “So why change it?” Which isn’t to say that the docket is always full. Today, with no claimants in sight, the adjudicators leave in under two minutes—which is just as well, as rain’s starting to fall on the plaza. —MARGARITA GOKUN SILVER

8:00 pm 7:00 pm

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Route Maps

United Future Service

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

CITY United Hub (Blue All Caps)

Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

ALASKA (U.S.)

Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

United/United Express United Seasonal Service

Fairbanks

Anchorage

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CAN

2:00

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Harbin

MONGOLIA

8:00 pm

Changchun

Urumqi

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Sapporo

Shenyang

CHINA

Baotou Yinchuan Taiyuan

Hohhot Beijing

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Sendai

Tianjin Dalian

Seoul S. KOREA Komatsu TOKYO (NRT) Zhengzhou Qingdao Tokyo/Haneda (HND) Lanzhou Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Mianyang Nagasaki Shanghai Wuhan Chengdu Kumamoto Kochi Kagoshima Oita Matsuyama 6:00 Chongqing Changsha Hangzhou Ningbo Wenzhou Miyazaki Nanchang Fuzhou Guiyang BHUTAN Guangzhou Guwahati Kunming Okinawa Taipei Xiamen Guilin BANGLADESH Liuzhou Agartala Ishigaki Shenzhen Nanning Macau Dhaka BURMA Hanoi Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane South 9:00 pm COMMONWEALTH OF Sanya China Sea Yangon THAILAND NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS Khon Kaen Saipan Luzon Island Bangkok CAMBODIA Manila Rota 5:30 Siem Reap PHILIPPINES GUAM Phnom Penh VIETNAM MARSHALL ISLANDS Cebu Ho Chi Minh City Krabi Kwajalein (Saigon) Yap Phuket Hat Yai Pohnpei Kota Kinabalu Chuuk (Truk) Penang Palau Majuro MALAYSIA FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA Bandar Seri Begawan Kosrae Kuala Lumpur BRUNEI

SAN FRANCISCO

Xining

DENVER

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Chihuahua

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Mont HAWAI‘I (U.S.)

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International Date Line

Honolulu Puerto Vallarta Manzanillo Guadalajara Morelia

Puebl

Oaxaca Huatulc Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Villa Acapulco Gua

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I N D O N E S I A PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Jakarta Denpasar Bali

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NEW ZEALAND Queenstown

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Tampico Providenciales Aguascalientes Queretaro Tepic Cozumel Poza Rica Puerto Plata Jalapa Puerto Vallarta Ciudad del Grand Cayman Manzanillo Veracruz Carmen Mexico Montego City Puebla Guadalajara Belize Bay Punta Oaxaca Kingston Morelia Cana Flores Roatan Lazaro Mayagü San Pedro Sula Cardenas Huatulco Tegucigalpa Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Puerto Escondido Villahermosa San Andres Aruba Acapulco Island Guatemala City NIC.

Palmerston North Wellington Blenheim Christchurch

Dunedin

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to Washington (Dulles)

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) New Orleans

Piedras Negras Monterrey Matamoros Durango MEXICO Ciudad Victoria

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to to Cleveland New York (Newark)

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WESTERN SAHARA

Providenciales San Juan Cozumel Puerto St. Thomas Grand Cayman Plata del Santiago St. Maarten Montego Antigua Belize Punta Bay St. Kitts Cana Roatan San Pedro Sula Tegucigalpa St. Lucia Aruba San Andrés Bonaire Barranquilla Maracaibo NIC. Port-of-Spain Panama Caracas COSTA City Valledupar RICA Valencia PANAMACartagena Cucuta eria

EGYPT

MALI Dakar

1:00 pm

GAMBIA Bamako BURKINA FASO Ouagadougou Bissau

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10:00 am

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Montevideo Buenos Aires

Port Elizabeth

Cities served by select airline partners that are not visible on the map: Blantyre, Malawi Lilongwe, Malawi Maputo, Mozambique

Atlantic Ocean

Durban, South Africa Manzini, Swaziland Ndola, Zambia Harare, Zimbabwe

8:00 am

Bergen NORWAY

9:00 am

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

5:00 pm

6:00 pm

Oslo SWEDEN

FINLAND

Turku

Helsinki

Stockholm

Aalborg

Gothenburg LATVIA

Riga

DENMARK

SCOTLAND

Maputo

Edinburgh

SWAZILAND NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast Durban KINGDOM IRELAND

Tallinn ESTONIA

Stavanger MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

Manzini

Glasgow Johannesburg

Indian Ocean

4:00 pm

Lilongwe MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE

Curitiba

Passo Fundo

ago mana to Domingo uadilla San Juan Culebra Vieques St. Thomas Tortola Virgin Gorda Anguilla St. Maarten Antigua Pointe a Pitre Martinique s St. Lucia Barbados Grenada Tobago ort-of-Spain

MALAWI

ZAMBIA

Mahé

SEYCHELLES

COMOROS

NAMIBIA

Chapeco

MALDIVES

Nairobi 3:00 pm Kilimanjaro RWANDA BURUNDI Mombasa Bujumbura Zanzibar TANZANIA Dar Es Salaam 2:00 pm

(CGH)

Bermuda

SRI LANKA KENYA

Harare

Campo Grande

CHILE

Ilheus

Colombo SOMALIA

UGANDA

Entebbe

Luanda

Salvador

Cuiabá

BOLIVIA

ETHIOPIA

Kigali

Kinshasa

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

Kozhikode Coimbatore Cochin Trivandrum

Addis Ababa

Juba

Libreville

Juazeiro do Norte

BRAZIL

PERU

DJIBOUTI

SOUTH SUDAN

DEM. REP. CONGO

GABON CONGO SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Fortaleza

Goa Mangalore

Ambouli

CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala

Raipur Pune Hyderabad

Asmara

Kano

Abuja Cotonou GHANA Lagos Port Harcourt

Pointe Noire Piura

Khartoum

Kolkata

Nagpur

Mumbai

YEMEN

NIGERIA

Sao Tome Belém

Manaus

CHAD

INDIA

Ahmedabad

Arabian Sea 4:00 pm

ERITREA

SUDAN

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Quito Guayaquil

Muscat OMAN

SAUDI ARABIA

MAURITANIA Sal CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

FRENCH GUIANA

ECUADOR

U. A. E.

Jeddah

GUYANA

Neiva

Alma-Ata Black Sea Bishkek UZBEKISTAN GEORGIA Tbilisi Skopje Batumi Istanbul 5:00 Tashkent KYRGYZSTAN Baku Tirana ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN GREECE Kayseri ALB. Athens Izmir Yerevan Dushanbe TURKEY TAJIKISTAN Antalya Adana Gaziantep Ashgabat Bodrum Tunis Malta Rhodes Ercan Larnaca AFGHAN. Islamabad CYPRUS TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Beirut Jammu Peshawar SYRIA Tripoli Tel Aviv IRAN 4:30 Lahore Amritsar Amman IRAQ Benghazi Alexandria ISRAEL Chandigarh 3:30 Kathmandu JORDAN 5:00 Kuwait Cairo Delhi NEPAL PAKISTAN Dammam 2:00 pm QATAR Jaipur LIBYA Lucknow Bahrain Luxor Dubai Karachi Riyadh Doha Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi MONT.

ian

SHINGTON, DC LLES)

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

Krasnodar

SERB. Sofia KOS.

Rome

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

6:00 pm

asp

Cleveland

Ekaterinburg

4:00

HER.

SPAIN

5:00 pm

4:00

LAT. Riga Copenhagen LITH. Malmo Vilnius Belfast Hamburg Gdansk Manchester Minsk Dublin Amsterdam BELARUS Shannon GERMANY Berlin Warsaw Brussels Cork POLAND Kiev Prague Birmingham London Krakow Frankfurt Stuttgart UKRAINE Kosice Munich Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. Odessa FRANCE Zagreb ROMANIA Geneva Belgrade Bucharest Milan Venice BOS.-

Glasgow

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

Tallinn

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Copenhagen Malmo Gdansk

Palanga LITHUANIA RUSSIA

Vilnius

Kaliningrad

Bremen Hamburg Minsk LESOTHO Manchester POLAND Dublin WALES Berlin ENGLAND NETH. BELARUS Hannover Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Muenster Cork GERMANY Leipzig BELGIUM Dresden Bristol London London Brussels Prague Katowice (Gatwick) Cologne Frankfurt Kraków UKRAINE CZECH Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC Stuttgart SLOVAKIA Kosice Munich Paris Salzburg Linz Vienna Budapest Basel AUSTRIA FRANCE Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Ljubljana Geneva Verona Lyon Venice Zagreb Bucharest Bordeaux Trieste BOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse Sarajevo La Coruna SERBIA BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona Split Bilbao KOS. Sofia Dubrovnik Skopje Rome SPAIN Istanbul Bari Tirana MAC. Barcelona Porto ALBANIA Naples Madrid ITALY Thessaloniki PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza Izmir La Romana Palermo Alicante Mediterranean Sea Lisbon Athens Sevilla Mikonos Faro Bodrum MALTA Luga Heraklion Rhodes

Atlantic Ocean

1:00 pm 1016

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert

Route Maps

Smithers Terrace

Sand Spit

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

Fort St. John

Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Fort McMurray

United/United Express United Seasonal Service

Prince George

to Fairbanks

Grande Prairie PACIFIC TIME ZONE 4:00

to Anchorage

CA NA DA

MOUNTAIN TIME ZONE 5:00

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Edmonton CENTRAL TIME ZONE 6:00

Kamloops Vancouver

Nanaimo

Calgary

Penticton

Victoria

MANITOBA

ALBERTA SASKATCHEWAN

Saskatoon Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Seattle

Paciﬁc Ocean

WASHINGTON

Regina

Portland

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

Williston

Great Falls Redmond

Minot

MONTANA

NORTH Devils Lake DAKOTA

Bozeman

IDAHO

OREGON

Medford

MINNESOTA

Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

Thunder Bay

QUÉBEC

ONTARIO

Bismarck

Dickinson Fargo Billings Cody/ Jamestown Yellowstone Sheridan Idaho Falls Sun Valley SOUTH Gillette Worland Rapid City DAKOTA Jackson Hole

Sudbury

Houghton

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Sag

Glasgow

Helena North Bend

EASTERN TIME ZONE 7:00

Winnipeg

North Bay

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WISCONSIN

Plattsburgh Wausau Minneapolis Kingston Burling Traverse City NEW YO Eau Claire Green Bay Pierre Huron Toronto Syracuse MICHIGAN Appleton/ Midland/ Riverton Fox Cities Rochester Sioux NEVADA Casper Chadron Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Falls Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs WYOMING Milwaukee Rapids Niagara Falls Binghamton Flint IOWA London Scottsbluff Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Kalamazoo/ Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance Erie Battle Creek W Detroit Windsor Laramie Mammoth Lakes Scranton San Jose P NEBRASKA Cedar Cheyenne South Bend/Elkhart/ Cleveland Hayden/ Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N North Platte UTAH State Des PA Iowa City Akron/Canton Monterey COLORADO Allento Grand Springs Moines Dubois College OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Kearney Pittsburgh Moline CALIFORNIA Harrisburg Lincoln Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook MD ILLINOIS INDIANA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George Baltimore D San Luis Obispo Montrose Gunnison/ Dayton Bakersfield Clarksburg WASHIN Springfield Indianapolis Crested Hays Las Vegas Parkersburg Shenandoah Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati (Reagan N WV Valley Cortez Durango Kansas City KANSAS Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesvi Burbank Charleston Louisville Alamosa Lewisburg Richmond Farmington LOS ANGELES Evansville Lexington Ontario Dodge City N Wichita Orange County Roanoke VIRGINIA KENTUCKY Liberal ARIZONA Santa Fe Springfield Prescott Greensboro/High Poi Palm Springs Raleigh/Durha NORTH MISSOURI Paducah Amarillo Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CAROLINA Albuquerque Nashville Northwest Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft TENNE SSEE ARKANSAS Chattanooga Greenville/ Spartanburg OKLAHOMA Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CAROLINA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth HAWAI‘I-ALEUTIAN TIME 1:00 Monroe Midland/ Odessa GEORGIA Jackson Shreveport Kaua‘i TEXAS Savannah ALABAMA Redding

U N I T E D S TAT E S

HAWAI‘I

Killeen

O‘ahu

Austin

Honolulu Kapalua Lana‘i

Kahului Maui

HOUSTON San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL)

Hawai‘i

100

Beaumont/ Pt. Arthur

Mobile

McAllen

M E X I CO 0

100

200

300

400 Miles

Pensacola

Tallahassee

Ft. Walton Panama Gulfport/ Beach City New Biloxi Orleans

Jacksonville

FLORIDA

Orlando

Tampa/St. Petersburg Sarasota/Bradenton

Corpus Christi

150 Miles

50 100 150 200 Kilometers

Lake Charles Lafayette

MISSISSIPPI

Baton Rouge

Laredo

Hilo

Kona

Paciﬁc Ocean

LOUISIANA

College Station Alexandria

Harlingen Brownsville

West Palm Beach

Ft. Myers

Gulf Of Mexico

Ft. Lauderdale/ Miami Bimini

Key West 0

100 200 300 400 500 600 Kilometers

CUBA

star alliance

travel info

United Future Service

CITY United Hub (Blue All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

Goose Bay

NEWFOUNDLAND TIME ZONE 8:30

Gander Deer Lake NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

Gaspe Gulf Of St. Lawrence

eau Mont-Joli

Bathurst

Îles de la Madeleine

PRINCE EDWARD Sydney NEW ISLAND BRUNSWICK Charlottetown

Moncton Fredericton

ity

Saint John

ATLANTIC TIME ZONE 8:00

Halifax

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NOVA

MAINE

SCOTIA Bangor Bar Harbor

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Portland

Manchester Boston Hyannis Nantucket Providence

MASS. dR.I.

rk (La Guardia) nnedy) RK (NEWARK)

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LLES)

nia Beach

alem

Atlantic Ocean

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Boston

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

our

Eleuthera rnors Harbour

Earn recognition around the world The more that you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be. MileagePlus Premier status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefits you can receive.

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BAHAMAS

n 1016

Other Airline Partners You can earn and/or redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our other airline partners. • Aer Lingus • Aeromar • Air Dolomiti • Amtrak (train) • Azul

• Cape Air • Edelweiss • Eurowings • Germanwings • Great Lakes

• Hawaiian Airlines • Island Air • Jet Airways • Silver Airways

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 56

The Hemi

Cox as Dr. FrankN-Furter in The Rocky Horror Picture Show

and that I could sing really high, and I sang exclusively in my head voice for years. I had this aversion to my chest voice. A year ago, even before Rocky came along, I had finished my lecture tour and wanted to dance and sing again. It was like starting over again. We started working on it and discovering it and rediscovering it. And then the call for Rocky came, and I was ready in my own evolution around my transition—being more comfortable in myself—to accept this part of my voice. H: And now? LC: I can say that my chest voice is

H: Did you do the whole midnight

viewing ritual, throwing rice at the screen and everything? LC: I discovered Rocky Horror on video in my college dorm, but I never went and experienced it myself. I still haven’t. I just kept watching it over and over again and learned all the words and was just transfixed by it. The song “Don’t Dream It, Be It” became this personal mantra. I was a trip in college. I had little catchphrases: Be bold! Be brave! Be beautiful! H: Rocky Horror also requires you to

STEVE WILKIE/FOX

use your deep singing voice, which you’ve shied away from. It was an opportunity for you to accept the fullness of your talents, to sort of let them bloom. I think a lot of people think of you as extremely confident and comfortable with yourself— LC: Mmm-hmmm [laughs]. H: —and so it might come as a surprise that you would still have new things about yourself to get comfortable with. LC: Oh my God, absolutely. Being a transgender woman—or just being a woman—with a deep voice is something to accept about myself and something that I tried to fix for years. When I studied singing in college, in voice lessons I was a baritone. Then I discovered my head voice,

beautiful. It’s a low voice, but there’s something feminine about it. But it’s not even about that. It’s about me accepting and embracing that part of me. And it is absolutely perfect for this character. This is the thing about being an actor that has been so healing for me. Being an artist, there are challenges we have to face and things that I might not be able to be fully comfortable with as Laverne, but the character that I’m playing might be really comfortable with it. And so through this character I can become more comfortable with myself. I’ve been doing that my whole life. That’s why I’m an actor. H: Do you have any favorite go-to

karaoke songs? LC: Many! I love “Titanium,” David Guetta featuring Sia, and [Sia’s] “Chandelier.” Those are the two songs I sing pretty much every time I do karaoke. One of my best friends, Mila, for years we would do karaoke, and I would always end with “Sweet Love” by Anita Baker. What’s fun for me about karaoke is that I don’t have to sing loud. It’s about being free and cathartic and letting loose. H: Pro tip: After Thanksgiving, “All I Want for Christmas Is You” by Mariah Carey will guarantee you a standing ovation. LC: [Laughs.] Yeah. Oh, Mariah.

Q&A with Laverne Cox

H: Mariah is so good at being sexy without necessarily being overtly sexual. It seems like that’s such a difficult thing for trans women, because there’s a long history of being seen only as sex objects. LC: Absolutely. H: Stylishness, confidence, humor—

they can all be sexy without being sexual, but it gets confusing. You’re so good at navigating it, though. How do you do that? LC: Thank you for that. I appreciate it. Being empowered in our sexuality is about seeing ourselves differently, outside of oppressive paradigms. For me, it’s also about acknowledging that a lot of the trauma that a lot of trans people—myself included— have around bodies and sexuality is because historically we have often been reduced to just being sex objects. For me, too, my sexuality is a part of me. This is gonna sound arrogant: I feel like I’ve always been sexy. And sexy isn’t about how you look. It’s an energy. And I feel like that is something that is God-given. For me to understand my sexuality, it’s something that’s also tied to my spirituality. H: I’m gay, and if you’re gay or you’re

trans or any “other,” you have to think about your identity so much more than everyone else. There’s soul-searching. LC: It’s incorporated in a full humanity. My brother has often said to me that I insist on the entirety of my humanity when I step into a public space, and my sexuality is part of that, but it’s also not all of it. I’m also really smart, and I’m talented. Those are the qualities about me that I most admire. It’s not about my lipstick. It’s not about my sexuality. It’s not about those things first. New York City–based freelance writer Richard Morgan has to confess that when he goes to karaoke he sings *NSYNC—en Español.

TRAVEL INFO FLEET

MAPS

SAFETY & REGULATORY

Introducing the United Polaris lounge experience Taking off December 1, 2016 We are proud to introduce United PolarisSM, a completely redesigned international premium cabin travel experience offering elevated comfort and service from lounge to landing. The United Polaris lounges, available exclusively to international premium cabin customers, are an oasis of thoughtful design and furnishings perfect for relaxing and preparing before a long ďŹ&#x201A;ight. With comfortable, private seating areas, rest pods, shower facilities, seasonal food and beverage options, and more, the United Polaris lounge experience brings a new level of quality to premium cabin travel. Visit united.com/polaris for more information. 84

travel info fleet

MAINLINE

N24199

N24399

d 767-400ER

N66051

N75390

Boeing 737-900 and 737-900ER

N30401

N25311

AIRCRAFT

CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

747-400

777-200/ -200ER

787-8/-9

767-300ER/ -400ER

757-200/-300

737-700/ -800/-900/ -900ER

A319/A320

567 mph

550 mph

560 mph

540 mph

530 mph

374 passengers

Between 266 and 348 passengers

Between 219 and 252 passengers

Between 183 and 242 passengers

Between 142 and 213 passengers

Between 118 and 179 passengers

Between 120 and 150 passengers

Four Pratt & Whitney PW4056 turbofan engines, rated up to 56,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric GEnx-1B turbofan engines, rated up to 74,100 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CF680C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,500 pounds thrust

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2037 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,100 pounds thrust

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 26,500 pounds thrust

211 ft., 5 in.

199 ft., 11 in.

197 ft., 4 in.

Up to 170 ft., 4 in.

134 ft., 9 in.

118 ft., 2 in.

111 ft., 11 in.

UNITED EXPRESS N24106

N24411

N24103

N24101

AIRCRAFT CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

CRJ-200/-700

EMB 170/175

EMB 135/145

Q200/-300

530 mph

520 mph

500 mph

414 mph

Between 50 and 70 passengers

Between 70 and 76 passengers

Between 37 and 50 passengers

Between 37 and 71 passengers

Two General Electric CC348C1 jet engines, rated up to 13,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CF34-8E jet engines, rated up to 14,500 pounds thrust

Two Rolls-Royce AE3007 turbofan engines, rated up to 8,900 pounds thrust each

Two Pratt and Whitney PW150A engines, rated up to 4,600 pounds thrust

76 ft., 3 in.

85 ft., 4 in.

69 ft., 7 in.

93 ft., 3 in.

terminal maps travel info

Enjoy a digital library at all United Club locations To further enhance your United ClubSM experience, we e are excited to partner with Foli to provide complimentary ntary access to a variety of digital publications. Simply download wnload the Foli app—available in the App Store and Google Play—on smartphone, n your smartphone t hone e tablet, or eReader when visiting a United Club location, and enjoy a library of best-selling e-books, newspapers, and magazines right at your ﬁngertips. You can also save select books to read in ﬂight or anywhere in the world for up to three days after your United Club visit. 86

travel info

United Club

terminal maps

Kiosk Check-in/Customer Service Center

Mamava Nursing Pod

United Global First Lounge

Ticketing/Check-in

Medical Center

United Arrivals Lounge

Baggage Claim

Transfer Shuttle

United PremierÂ® Check-in

Immigration

Bus, Monorail or Train Transport

Animal Relief Area

Secure Walkway

TSA Pre-screening Program

IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT TERMINAL A

TERMINAL B

TERMINAL C

(North Concourse)

United Express

United United Express

Bus Station (A2) A27 A26 A25 A24

A17 A18 A19

A20

D 11

D 12

International Arrivals

C27

Skyway Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

B31 B21 B30 B22 B20 B29 B23 B19 B28 B24 B18 B27 B25 B17 B26

USO 5

C17 C16 C15 C14

C19 C20 C21 C22 C23

D 4A

B87 B88

(Lower Level)

A30 A29

C18

B85A B85

1 D 2 D 3

B86

C2 4

A15 B79A B79 A11 B80 A9 B77 B81 A8 B76 A7 B83

C2 6 C2 5

A14 A12 A10

North Concourse

EVA Air Lufthansa Singapore Airlines Turkish Airlines

Note: There are no check-in facilities in Terminal A. Please visit Terminal B to check in.

United Air China Air New Zealand ANA Avianca

United Express Air Canada

TERMINAL D

B12 B14 B15 B16

B1 B11 B2 B10 B3 B9 B4 B8 B5 B7 B6

Group Check-in Terminal C Ticket Counter (Lower Level)

C29

E24 C30

C31

C32

C33 C34 C35 C36 C37

South Concourse

TERMINAL A

C43

C45

E10

E1 E2 E3 E4 E5

C42 C41 C40 C39

(South Concourse)

C44

E11

E12

E14

E23

E15 E16 E17

E8 E7

E22 E21 E20

TERMINAL E

E18

E19

United United Express

D 28 D 30 D 32

D 18 D 20 D 22 D 24 D 26

D 10 D 12 D 14 D 16

D 2 D 4 D 6 D 8

C2 8 C3 0

C1 8 C2 0 C2 2 C2 4 C2 6

C1 0 C1 2 C1 4

C6 C8

C2 C4

IAD | WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT D2 3 D2 5 D2 7 D2 9

D1 5 D1 7 D1 9 D2 1

D9 D1 1

United United Express

B3 8 B4 0 B4 2 B4 4 B4 6 B4 8

A3 2

D5 D7

A2 5

D1 D3 A2 2 A2

C9 C1 1

C1 7 C1 9 C2 1 C2 3 C2 5 C2 7 A1 4 5

C5 C7

D C1 C3

C United United Express

B6 3 B6 5 B6 7 B6 9 B7 1 B7 3 B7 5 B7 7 B7 9

B3 5 B3 7 B3 9 B4 1 B4 3 B4 5 B4 7 B4 9 B5 1

A United Express Air China Copa Airlines Ethiopian

Z Gates 1 2 3 4

MAIN TERMINAL

LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TE R M I N A L 3

TERMINAL 2

B ANA Austrian Avianca Brussels Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines South African Airways Turkish Airlines

TE R M I N A L 1

Air Canada Avianca

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L 71A 71B 73 75A

United (international arrivals only), Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Copa Airlines (arrivals), Ethiopian, EVA Air, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

75B 77

TE R M I N A L 4

TE R M I N A L 5

TERMINAL 6 Copa Airlines (departures)

70A 70B 72 74 76

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

TERMINAL 7 Concourse 7 Concourse 8 United United Express

United United Express

terminal maps travel info

EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL C B2

TERMINAL A

TERMINAL C

United United Express Air Canada

United United International Arrivals United Express

28/28A 27/ 27A

127 128 126 139 125 124 138 123 137 122 136 121 5 120 13 134 3 13 32 1 1 3 1 0 13

A2 25/25A

United International Arrivals Air China, Air India, Austrian, Ethiopian Airlines, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, TAP Portugal

4A /2 24 A 23/23

20/20A

TERMINAL B

98 99

115 113

114

112

111

110

107

104

105

102

103

81 83 85 87 88

90 72

75 73

(Upper Level)

(Lower Level)

TSA PreCheck now available at all 3 checkpoints

SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT B

A40, A53-A53

B15 B17 B19 B21 B23 B25 B27 B29 B31 B33 B35 B37 B39 B41 B43 B45 B47 B49 B51 B53 B55 B57

B38 B42 B44 B46 B48 B50 B52 B54 B56 B58 B60

TE R M I N A L 2

United United Express

TERMINAL 3 United United Express

64 63 62 65 61 66 60 67 77A/B/C 68 69 76A/B

80 72/73 73A 74

C40-C49

TE R M I N A L 1 70 71A 71B

78A/B

C23-C39

(Lower Level) 75

G92

G94

89 G96 G98 G100

G91

G102

Gates A1-A12

G93 G95

G101

I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L

G97 G99

United, Air Canada, Air China, Air India, Air New Zealand, ANA, Copa Airlines, EVA AIR, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

1 3 5 7 9 1 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B93 B95 0 2 4 6 8 0 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B92 94 B

9 1 5 7 69 71 73 5 B5 B6 B63 B6 B6 B B B B7 B77 9

A58-A68

B16 B18 B20 B22 B24 B26 B28 B30 B32 B34 B36

F G

TERMINAL 3

8 F2

ORD | CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

F2 F2 3 F26 F1 1 F2 F1 9 7 F2 4 F1 F2 2 F1 5 0 1 F1 F9 F1 6 F8 F1 4 F7 F1 2 0

United Air Canada Lufthansa

A41

F2 F3

F6 F5 F4

Asiana Airlines, Avianca

E12 E10

C1 C2 C4 C3 C8 C5 C10 C7 C9 C11 C15 C17

E8 E6 E4 E3 E2

E5 E1

TERMINAL 2

F2 7 F25

K *Departures only **Arrivals only ***International arrivals originating from cities with U.S. Customs preclearance will arrive into Terminals 1 or 2

United Express Air Canada

B2 B3 B4 B1

C C16 C18 C20

C22 C19 B7 C24 C21 B8 C26 C23 C28 B9 C25 C27 B10 C30 C29 C31 B11 B12 B14 B16 B17 B18 B19 B20

B21 B22/23/24

TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 5 United (international arrivals***), ANA,** Air India, Asiana Airlines, Austrian, Avianca, Copa Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa,** Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

Group check-in

DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Pedestrian Bridge

Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

TERMINAL EAST

101

P1, P2, P3

TERMINAL WEST

94 92

109

108

Elevated Airport Transport System

United United Express ANA* Lufthansa*

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travel info

GRU | SÃO PAULO–GUARULHOS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

terminal maps

GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

T ER MIN A L 1 “BLUE”

T ER MIN A L 2 “OR A NGE”

Azul Brazilian Airlines

Avianca, COPA, Ethiopian

T ER MIN A L 3 “R ED” United, Air Canada, Air China, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, South African, SWISS, TAP Portugal, Turkish Airlines

MAIN TERMINAL United

109 108

107

106 201

105 104 102

211

224

212

DOMESTIC

216

239

219

235

236

12 13

323 324

325 326

237

234

DOMESTIC

319 320

321 322

238

233

315 316

317 318 INTERNATIONAL

232

217

218

307 308

240

231

215

305 306

303 304

241

230 214

301 302

242

229

213

101

209

210

103

11 (Lower Level)

Remote boarding

309 310

314

311

313 312

Food Court (Lower Level)

Café

NRT | TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Fourth Floor

Satellite 2

Third Floor 43

Security Checkpoint

22 36

45 46

North Wing

South Wing 18 52

17 16

15 11

Satellite 1

56 57

4 58

TERMINAL 1

United Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand ANA Asiana Airlines

Austrian EGYPTAIR Ethiopian EVA Air Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines

Singapore Airlines SWISS THAI Airways Turkish Airlines

LHR | LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL 2B

FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Gates

Gates

E1-E26

D1-D54

Pier E

Pier D

Pi Gates

B47 B27 B26 B46 B28 B48 B45 B25 B23 B42 B44 B24 B22 B43 Pier B B10-B20 B1-B41

C1-C9

TE R M I N A L 2

B49

B48

B32

B33

B47

B46

B44

B43 B42

B36

B38 B39

B31

r ie

B41 B29

Underground Walkway

Pier A

A18 A21

Z Gates

Z11-25/A1-42

Pier A/Z

A/Z Gates 50-69

Arrivals Lounge

TE R M I N A L 1 United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

Austrian Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR Ethiopian LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines

Singapore Airlines South African Airways SWISS TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines

TERMINAL 2A

Transfer to Terminal 1 is via walkway Transfer to Terminal 3-4-5 is via secure side shuttle bus

delayed or canceled flights

travel info

Tips for when your flight is delayed or canceled On occasion, delaying or canceling a flight is the only way we can maintain our high safety standards. In these challenging situations, simply knowing more about your options is an important step toward getting your travel plans back on track.

GETTING REBOOKED

RESCHEDULING YOUR TRIP

If your travel is significantly disrupted, we’ll automatically look for another flight to book you on. We’ll notify you using the contact information provided during booking or at check-in, and you can also view your updated itinerary through the United app, united.com/checkin or an airport kiosk, or ask a United representative.

If your flight is canceled or delayed two hours or more, and you want to postpone or cancel your trip, please call us at 1-800-UNITED-1 (1-800-864-8331) within the USA or Canada, or go to united.com/contact for international contact options.

Sometimes the next available United flight may not be for several hours or, in rare cases, even longer. In these situations, the following options may be available:

MANY OF THESE FEATURES ARE NOW AVAILABLE THROUGH THE UNITED APP, UNITED.COM/CHECKIN AND OUR AIRPORT KIOSKS. If you’re on an aircraft equipped with Wi-Fi, you can access the United app and united.com for free.

STAYING OVERNIGHT If your flight is canceled because of a mechanical issue or other circumstances within our control, we will try to accommodate you in a nearby hotel at our expense. For events outside of our control, such as weather, we may be able to help you find a local hotel at a discounted rate, but we do not cover hotel or meal expenses. If this situation applies to your travel, you can ask a United airport representative about discount hotel options.

STANDING BY

SWITCHING TO A NEARBY AIRPORT Flights into or out of nearby airports may be available. If you’re able to arrange ground transportation, switching to another airport could reduce your delay.

If you’re given a new itinerary but would prefer to take an earlier flight that is sold out, you can ask to be added to the standby list at no charge. If you don’t get a seat, we’ll move you to the standby list for the next flight.

BE PREPARED

BEFORE YOU TR AVEL

DOWNLOAD THE UNITED APP You can use it to get your boarding passes, check flight status, view standby lists, change to other flights and more.

PROVIDE ACCUR ATE CONTAC T INFORMATION When contacting you about your flights, we rely on the mobile phone number and email address you’ve given us. During check-in, please ensure that your contact details are up to date.

BUY TRIP INSUR ANCE The cost is usually low, and it can offset expenses incurred due to travel disruptions and bag delays. Learn more at united.com/tripinsurance

KEEP ESSENTIAL ITEMS IN YOUR C ARRY-ON BAG You can help yourself through a delay by keeping snacks, baby supplies, medication, travel documents and other essential personal items in your carry-on bag for easy access.

CHECKED BAGS If you are booked on a new itinerary, we’ll make every effort to reroute your checked baggage. Please ask a United representative about the status of your bags and if they can be rerouted. A toiletry kit may be provided if an overnight stay is necessary and we can’t retrieve your checked baggage. If your bags arrive at your destination before you do, we will secure the bags until you claim them. If your baggage doesn’t arrive at your final destination with you, please see a Baggage Service representative.

VISIT UNITED.COM/ IMPORTANTNOTICES BEFORE YOUR TRIP This page provides information about severe weather, airport updates and other issues that may affect your travel, and sometimes offers extra flexibility to change your travel plans in advance.

Different policies may apply when traveling to and from certain countries. Please refer to united.com for our Contract of Carriage and additional information.

ANTIQUITIES

Leisure & Luxury in the Age of Nero

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This exhibition is organized and circulated by The University of Michigan Kelsey Museum of Archeology in cooperation with the Ministero dei Beni e delle Attivitá Culturali e del Turismo and the Soprintendenza Speciale per i Beni Archeologici di Pompei, Ercolano e Stabia. Marble Statue of Nike

www.bozemancvb.com And numerous private donors

safety

travel info

Use of personal electronic devices

PERMITTED Small, lightweight PEDs (Personal electronic devices) may remain on from door closure to landing Cell phones in airplane mode or with cellular service disabled Bluetooth devices

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS What is the new portable electronic device policy? Travelers may use small, lightweight portable electronic devices in non-cellular or “airplane” mode on United- and United Express®-operated flights gate-to-gate. A visible airplane mode symbol should be identifiable and shown to a crew member upon request. This policy applies to flights operating within the 50 U.S. states, all U.S. territories, and select international locations. For international destinations, your flight attendants will advise if it’s necessary to turn off and stow your device. All devices must be used with the sound off or with headsets at all times.

When can I use in-seat power? The in-seat power system may only be used above 10,000 feet. Use of in-seat power is

SPECIAL NOTICES Captain requests The captain may request that all devices be fully turned off and stowed in certain circumstances, such as for poor-visibility landings. Please always listen to and follow crewmember instructions.

Medical syringes: Customers are permitted to pack medical syringes in carry-on baggage. If you need to use your syringes during your ﬂight, please ask a ﬂight attendant to help you properly dispose of them so they won’t harm you, other customers, or United employees

prohibited during taxi, takeoff, and landing.

provide gate-to-gate Wi-Fi in the future.

How do devices need to be secured or stowed?

Can I make calls or send text messages?

Devices may be held in hand or placed in a garment pocket or seatback pocket, as long as the device is less than 2 pounds. Devices weighing more than 2 pounds must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage in the overhead compartment or under the seat in front of you during take-off, taxi, and landing.

The use of cellular network services during the flight is not permitted by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). The use of any voice application, such as a Web-based Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP) service like Skype or FaceTime, in connection with inflight Wi-Fi service, is not permitted.

Laptops, notebook computers, and DVD players must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage during taxi, takeoff, and landing

Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time.

Remote-controlled toys

Does the new policy allow me to use a small notebook laptop? No. The new policy does not apply to laptops or DVD players, which may only be used when announced by your flight crew.

Will I be able to use Wi-Fi below 10,000 feet? Our aircraft equipped with satellite Wi-Fi are currently configured to allow Wi-Fi above 10,000 feet. However, we are exploring options to

Rechargeable batteries Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or fire when not stored properly. Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during flight. All spare batteries should be protected from short circuit and stowed only in your carry-on bags.

PLEASE NOTE: Use of the in-seat power system is at your own risk. Do not remove batteries. We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

LIMITED PERMISSION

NEVER PERMITTED Radio Receivers and/or transmitters, including AM/FM/SW/CB and Scanners Televisions

Personal air puriﬁers Spare lithium batteries in checked or gate-checked bags E-cigarettes or personal vaporizers in checked or gate-checked bags Hoverboards, self-balancing wheeled vehicles, or smart wheeled vehicles Heating Devices, including blow dryers, bottle warmers and curling irons

E-cigarettes and personal vaporizers

Medical and assistive devices

E-cigarettes or personal vaporizers may accidentally activate in checked baggage. This may cause the device to overheat or overload and may cause a fire. For this reason, these devices must be stowed in your carry-on baggage only.

Customers may always use medically prescribed physiological instruments, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. On aircraft equipped with in-ear headphones, customers with hearing-assistance devices may request a different headset from a flight attendant.

travel info

safety

Safety information NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our ﬂight attendants are thoroughly trained in all safety procedures, but they need your help to ensure that the ﬂight runs as smoothly as possible. Please be aware of the following:

Please review the information on the safety card located at your seat

Understand where your oxygen mask will appear and how to use the mask to start oxygen ﬂow

Know the correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency

Know the location of the nearest emergency exit

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes ﬁnes of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors

E-cigarettes and personal vaporizers cannot be packed in checked baggage, including gate-checked bags. Please stow these items in carry-on bags. Using or charging e-cigarettes or personal vaporizers is prohibited on our ﬂights.

It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a ﬂight unless they are served by the ﬂight crew. Airlines are forbidden from serving alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.

Spare lithium batteries can never be packed in checked baggage, including gate-checked bags. Stow all spare batteries in carry-on bags

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit carrying hazardous materials in checked or carry-on baggage. Substantial penalties can be imposed for violations. The following are a few prohibited items. See united.com/restrictedarticles for additional information. NOT PERMITTED IN CHECKED OR CARRY-ON BAGGAGE

Poisons and radioactive material

Corrosive and oxidizing agents

NOT PERMITTED IN CHECKED BAGGAGE

Flammable liquids, gases and compressed gases

TRAVEL NOTES LOST AND FOUND To report an item left on board, please fill out the online “lost items” form located at united.com/lostitems. ZIKA VIRUS Where Zika virus is present, the CDC recommends using insect repellent with 20 percent DEET to prevent mosquito bites. For more information, visit cdc.gov/zika.

Liquid and solid explosives

CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or action deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your comments at united.com/ feedback.

Spare lithium batteries

CAN I TAKE PHOTOS AND VIDEO ONBOARD? Yes. The use of small cameras or mobile devices for photography and video is permitted on board, provided that the purpose is capturing personal events. Photographing or recording other customers or airline personnel without their express consent is prohibited.

E-cigarettes and personal vaporizers

PLEASE NOTE United strictly prohibits the modification or use of any object or device to alter or limit the functionality, permanently or temporarily, of any aircraft structure, seat assembly, tray table, etc. If you see a customer using any such device or object, please inform United personnel immediately.

customs & immigration

travel info

U.S. and Guam international arrivals Arrivals in Guam

Arrivals in the U.S. This Space For Offical Use Only

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has automated the I-94 arrival/ departure record. After CBP inspection, travelers can request a copy of their I-94 at cbp.gov/I94.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

One traveler per family must complete a customs declaration before arrival in the U.S. Please read both sides of the document, complete the form in English, using capital letters, and be sure to sign. If you are passing through the U.S., write “TRANSIT” and your final destination country in the address field.

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO. 1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110,148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term “family” is defined as “members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption.” 1 Family Name

First (Given) 2 Birth date

Middle Month

Day

Year

3 Number of Family members traveling with you

000000000 00

4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination

(b) City

1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship

5. Sex (Male or Female)

5 Passport issued by (country) 6 Passport number

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

7 Country of Residence

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

8 Countries visited on this

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

trip prior to U.S. arrival 12. City Where Visa Was Issued

U.S. Customs Declaration

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

Yes

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

No No No No No

Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

15. City and State

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects: (b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products: (c) disease agents, cell cultures, snails: (d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name 10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street)

OMB No. 1651-0111

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: (such as touching or handling)

13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments

over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent:

(see definition of monetary instruments on reverse)

Departure Record

14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise:

Admission Number

000000000 00

(articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders, or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else, but not items mailed to the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: $ VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is: $

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare.

All travelers entering Guam under the terms of the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program must complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants); an I-736 (one per person, including infants); and a Guam Customs Declaration (one per family). All other travelers must complete a Guam Customs Declaration only. Forms must be completed in English, using capital letters. If you are passing through Guam, write “TRANSIT” and your final destination country in the address field. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 departure record in your passport after inspection. Before boarding your return flight, please give the departure record to the airline representative at the boarding gate.

U.S. passport application processing times

I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

✗

Signature

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

Left: U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record, which all Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program participants must complete; Right: U.S. Customs Declaration

The U.S. Department of State expects a significant increase in passport applications in 2016 and 2017, which may cause processing times to increase. It’s recommended that U.S. citizens submit passport applications and renewals well ahead of planned travel (at least 10 weeks). Also, beginning January 1, 2016, U.S. citizens can no longer receive passport page inserts, so if you’re running out of pages, you may want to renew now even if your passport is not expiring. For information on how to apply for or renew a passport, visit travel.state.gov.

Expedited entry through CBP Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™ expedited passport control and customs CBP offers the Global Entry program to expedite the processing of pre-approved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from travel abroad, travelers enrolled in Global Entry may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry kiosk. Please note that Global Entry is not available to travelers arriving at Honolulu directly from Guam. For detailed information, including eligibility requirements and the enrollment process, visit globalentry.gov. You can apply for Global Entry from your mobile device during your flight.

OneStop Lanes in Chicago and Houston shorten your walk If you didn’t check any bags, proceed to the OneStop lanes,

regardless of your nationality or final destination. Global Entry kiosks are available. In Houston, you may also use the OneStop lanes if you checked a bag and are immediately connecting to another United-operated international flight.

Mobile Passport Control U.S. and Canadian nationals entering the U.S. can use the free Mobile Passport Control app to submit passport information and Customs Declarations Forms via a smartphone or tablet prior to inspection. This program is currently available to United customers at the Chicago O’Hare, Denver, New York/ Newark, San Francisco and Washington Dulles airports, with plans to expand to other locations. For more information, visit mobilepassport.us.

Expedited screening through the U.S. Transportation Security Administration (TSA) The TSA manages and operates , an expedited security screening program that allows certain travelers to move through security more quickly and easily when departing from participating airports in the U.S. The TSA, not United, randomly selects travelers for expedited screening. The ability to use lanes is most consistent for travelers who have joined a Department of Homeland Security Trusted Traveler program. After completing a background check and screening, travelers who are enrolled in a Trusted Traveler program are issued a Known Traveler Number (KTN) or PASS ID. Members of the U.S. Armed Forces, including those serving in the U.S. Coast Guard, Reserves and National Guard, can use their Department of Defense (DoD) identification number. This number should be noted when making a flight reservation, or you can add it to an existing United reservation through the “Edit traveler information” option at united.com/managereservations. If the TSA determines that a traveler is eligible for expedited screening, information is embedded in the barcode of his or

her boarding pass. A logo or “TSA PRE” is also printed on the boarding pass near the traveler’s name. When the TSA agent at a participating airport scans the barcode, eligible travelers lane. Note that not all airports offer will be directed to a lanes. Children ages 12 and under may accompany an eligible . traveler through Additionally, the TSA will always incorporate random and unpredictable security measures throughout the airport, and in order to retain a certain element of randomness, no individual will be guaranteed expedited screening. Visit tsa.gov/tsa-precheck to from your mobile device learn more. You can apply for during your flight.

Turn miles into MileagePlus® members can now use 10,000 miles for a . code that covers the $85 application fee for See securityfees.mileageplus.com for more information.

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1994

The Ultimate Steak Experience! RingSide Steakhouse

Manny’s

RingSideSteakhouse.com

mannyssteakhouse.com

PORTLAND, OR 503.223.1513

MINNEAPOLIS, MN 612.339.9900

PROPRIETORS: Jan, Scott & Craig Peterson

PROPRIETORS: Phil Roberts, Peter Mihajlov

& Kevin Kuester

III Forks

Grill 225

iiiforks.com

grill225.com

DALLAS, TX 972.267.1776 EXECUTIVE CHEF: Chris Vogeli

JACKSONVILLE, FL 904.928.9277 EXECUTIVE CHEF: Damon Burch PROPRIETOR: Pete Nebrich

CHARLESTON, SC 843.266.4222 PROPRIETOR: Nick Palassis EXECUTIVE CHEF: Demetre Castanas

Benjamin Steak House benjaminsteakhouse.com

Gene & Georgetti geneandgeorgetti.com

NEW YORK, NY 212.297.9177 PROPRIETOR: Benjamin Prelvukaj CHEF: Arturo McLeod

CHICAGO, IL 312.527.3718 PROPRIETORS: Tony & Marion Durpetti

McKendrick’s Steak House St. Elmo Steak House stelmos.com

INDIANAPOLIS, IN 317.635.0636 PROPRIETORS: Steve Huse & Craig Huse

mckendricks.com

ATLANTA, GA 770.818.6346 PROPRIETORS: Claudia & Doug McKendrick CHEF: Tom Minchella

Malone’s

Elway’s

malonesrestaurant.com

www.elways.com

LEXINGTON, KY 859.335.6500

DENVER, CO 303-399-5353 PROPRIETORS: John Elwayy & Jennifer Jennife Wiard Wiar ard

PROPRIETORS: Brian McCarty & Bruce Drake

Metropolitan Grill themetropolitangrill.com

SEATTLE, WA 206.624.3287 PROPRIETOR: Ron Cohn

INDEPENDENTLY OWNED & OPERATED

ww w ww ww. w.. G Grr e ea a ttS S tte ea ak ko off N NA A .c c om om

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NEUROSURGERY Sanjay Ghosh, MD Brain & Spinal Surgery 9850 Genesee Avenue La Jolla, CA 619-810-1010 SanjayGhoshMD.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

CHICAGO FACIAL PLASTIC SURGERY Steven H. Dayan, MD 845 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 312-335-2070 DrDayan.com Super Doctors – Chicago

NEW JERSEY SPINE SURGERY Joshua S. Rovner, MD Robotic Spinal Fusion Surgery Offices: Englewood & Edison, NJ 201-227-1299 ProgressiveSpine.com Dr. Lopa Y. Gupta Eye Plastic Surgery

New Jersey Monthly – Top Doctors

NEW JERSEY / NYC INTERVENTIONAL PAIN MEDICINE Didier Demesmin, MD Minimally Invasive Pain Specialist Office locations in NJ & NYC 732-875-3252 UPMCNJ.com

TheBestDocs.com

New Jersey Monthly – Top Doctors

THESE DOCTORS ARE AMONG

THE BEST

DOCTORS IN NEW YORK Each doctor has been included in a “Best Doctors” issue of

PROMOTION

HAND SURGERY Mark E. Pruzansky, MD

Hand, Wrist & Elbow Surgery, Sports Injuries 975 Park Ave., New York, NY 212-249-8700 HandSport.us

PLASTIC SURGERY John E. Sherman, MD

1016 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 212-535-2300 NYPlasticSurg.com

SPORTS MEDICINE Jonathan L. Glashow, MD

Shoulder, Knee, Arthroscopic Surgery Midtown Surgery Center 737 Park Ave., New York, NY 212-794-5096 GlashowMD.com

All Doctors are Board Certified

DERMATOLOGY Ellen Marmur, MD

Cosmetic and Dermatologic Surgery 12 East 87th St., New York, NY 212-996-6900 MarmurMedical.com

SPINE SURGERY Sean McCance, MD

1155 Park Avenue New York, NY 212-360-6500 McCanceMD.com

UROLOGY David B. Samadi, MD

Robotic Prostate Surgery 485 Madison Avenue New York, NY 212-365-5000 ProstateCancer911.com

Dr. Mark E. Pruzansky Hand Surgery Doctors chosen for New York magazine’s “Best Doctors” issues were selected by Castle Connolly Medical Ltd., the nation’s leading provider of information on top doctors. TheBestDocs.com

HAIR TRANSPLANTATION Robert M. Bernstein, MD

Robotic Hair Transplants, Hair Loss Center for Hair Restoration 110 East 55th Street New York, NY 212-826-2400 BernsteinMedical.com

THESE DOCTORS ARE AMONG

THE BEST

PLASTIC SURGEONS IN AMERICA Each doctor has been peer-nominated and selected by the nation’s leading providers of information on top doctors. All doctors are board certified by the American Board of Plastic Surgery (ABPS).

PROMOTION

DENVER Paul C. Zwiebel, MD

2050 East County Line Road Highlands Ranch, CO 303-470-3400 DrZwiebel.com 5280 Magazine – Top Doctors

CHICAGO Steven Bloch, MD

1160 Park Avenue West Highland Park, IL 847-432-0840 BodyByBloch.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

LOS ANGELES Grant Stevens, MD

4644 Lincoln Boulevard Marina del Rey, CA 877-289-1522 DrGrantStevens.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

CLEVELAND Paul Vanek, MD

9485 Mentor Avenue Mentor, OH 440-205-5750 PaulVanekMD.com Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

HOUSTON Sabrina A. Lahiri, MD

119 Vision Park Blvd. Shenandoah, TX 281-419-1123 LahiriPlasticSurgery.com Super Doctors – Texas

SAN DIEGO Richard Chaffoo, MD

9850 Genesee Avenue La Jolla, CA 877-978-2003 LaJollaSkin.com

Castle Connolly – Top Doctors

SAN FRANCISCO Dr. Paul C. Zwiebel Highlands Ranch, CO

TheBestDocs.com

Stephen J. Ronan, MD

3600 Blackhawk Plaza Circle Blackhawk, CA 925-736-5757 BlackhawkPlasticSurgery.com Super Doctors – San Francisco

travel info

customs & immigration

U.S. Customs Declaration French / Français À l’arrivée, chaque voyageur ou un membre responsable de la famille doit fournir les informations suivantes (ne remplir qu’UNE seule déclaration écrite par famille). Le terme « famille » signifie « les membres d’une famille résidant sous le même toit et unis par les liens du sang, du mariage, d’une union civile ou de l’adoption ». 1. Nom de famille, Prénom, Autre(s) prénom(s) 2. Date de naissance : Mois, Jour, Année 3. Nombre de membres de votre famille voyageant avec vous 4. (a) Adresse aux États-Unis (nom de l’hôtel / destination) (b) Ville, (c) État 5. Passeport délivré par (pays) 6. Numéro de passeport 7. Pays de résidence 8. Pays visités lors de ce voyage avant l’arrivée aux États-Unis 9. Compagnie aérienne / Numéro de vol ou nom du navire 10. Ce déplacement est principalement un voyage d’affaires : Oui Non 11. J’apporte (nous apportons) Oui Non (a) des fruits, légumes, plantes, graines, aliments, insectes : Oui Non (b) de la viande, des animaux, des produits animaliers / de la faune : Oui Non (c) des agents pathogènes, des cultures cellulaires, des escargots : Oui Non (d) de la terre ou j’ai visité une ferme / un ranch / des pâturages : Oui Non 12. J’ai (nous avons) été en contact avec des animaux d’élevage : (c.-à-d. les toucher ou manipuler) Oui Non 13. Je transporte (nous transportons) des espèces ou des instruments monétaires d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 USD ou l’équivalent en devises étrangères : (voir la définition des instruments monétaires au verso) Oui Non 14. J’ai (nous avons) des marchandises commerciales : (articles pour la vente, échantillons utilisés pour solliciter des commandes, ou des biens qui ne sont pas considérés comme des effets personnels) Oui Non 15. RÉSIDENTS — la valeur totale de tous les biens, y compris les marchandises commerciales, que j’ai / nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (incluant les cadeaux pour quelqu’un d’autre, mais excluant les articles envoyés par la poste aux États-Unis) et que j’amène / nous amenons aux États-Unis est de : _________ USD VISITEURS — la valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, marchandises commerciales incluses, est de : _________ USD Lisez les instructions au verso de ce formulaire. Un espace est prévu pour énumérer tous les articles que vous devez déclarer. J’AI PRIS CONNAISSANCE DES INFORMATIONS IMPORTANTES AU RECTO DE CE FORMULAIRE ET FAIT UNE DÉCLARATION VÉRIDIQUE. Signature _________________________ Date (mois/jour/année) _____________

German / Deutsch Jeder ankommende Reisende oder jedes ankommende zuständige Familienmitglied hat die folgenden Informationen bereitzustellen (pro Familie ist nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich). Unter dem Begriff „Familie“ versteht man „Mitglieder einer Familie, die im gleichen Haushalt wohnen oder blutsverwandt, durch Heirat verwandt, Lebenspartner oder durch Adoption verwandt sind.“ 1. Familienname, Vorname (Rufname), Mittelname 2. Geburtsdatum: Monat, Tag, Jahr 3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder 4. (a) Straße und Hausnummer in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt, (c) Bundesstaat

5. 6. 7. 8.

Reisepass ausgestellt in (Land) Nummer des Reisepasses Land des Wohnortes Im Rahmen dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor der Ankunft in den USA 9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptzweck dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: Ja 11. Ich führe (wir führen) mit Ja (a) Obst, Gemüse, Pflanzen, Samen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: Ja (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier-/Wildtierprodukte: Ja (c) Krankheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: Ja (d) Erde, oder ich war (wir waren) auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/einer Viehweide: Ja 12. Ich war (wir waren) in nächster Nähe von Vieh: (z. B. habe(n) es berührt oder hatte(n) damit zu tun) Ja 13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $10.000 an US- oder gleichwertiger Auslandswährung oder Zahlungsmittel mit: (siehe Definition von Zahlungsmitteln auf der Rückseite) (siehe Definition von Zahlungsmitteln auf der Rückseite) Ja 14. Ich habe (wir haben) kommerzielle Handelsgüter dabei: Verkaufsgegenstände, Muster zum Anwerben von Aufträgen, oder Waren, die nicht als persönliche Gegenstände angesehen werden Ja 15. US-BÜRGER – der Gesamtwert sämtlicher Waren, einschließlich kommerzieller Handelsgüter, die ich/wir im Ausland gekauft oder erworben habe/ haben (einschließlich Geschenke für jemanden, ausschließlich Gegenstände, die in die USA versandt wurden), und die ich/wir in die USA einführe/einführen, beträgt: USD BESUCHER – der Gesamtwert sämtlicher Gegenstände, die in den USA verbleiben werden, einschließlich kommerzieller Handelsgüter, beträgt: USD

Nein Nein Nein Nein Nein Nein Nein

Nein

Bitte lesen Sie die Anweisungen auf der Rückseite dieses Formulars. Zur Auflistung sämtlicher von Ihnen zu erklärender Gegenstände ist Platz vorhanden. ICH HABE DIE WICHTIGEN INFORMATIONEN AUF DER RÜCKSEITE DIESES FORMULARS GELESEN UND HABE EINE WAHRHEITSGETREUE ERKLÄRUNG ABGEGEBEN. Unterschrift _____________________ Datum (Monat/Tag/Jahr) ____________

Portuguese / Português Cada viajante ou membro responsável pela família que esteja chegando aos Estados Unidos deve fornecer as seguintes informações (somente UMA declaração por escrito por família é necessária). O termo “família” é definido como “membros de uma família que residam no mesmo domicílio, que sejam parentes consanguíneos, casados ou em relacionamento de união estável, ou aparentados por adoção”. 1. Sobrenome, Nome, Nome do meio 2. Data de nascimento: Mês, Dia, Ano 3. Número de familiares viajando com você 4. (a) Endereço nos EUA (nome do hotel/destino) (b) Cidade, (c) Estado 5. Passaporte emitido por (país) 6. Número do passaporte 7. País de residência 8. Países visitados nesta viagem antes da chegada aos EUA 9. Empresa aérea/Nº do voo ou Nome da embarcação 10. O objetivo principal desta viagem é negócios: Sim Não 11. Estou (Estamos) trazendo Sim Não (a) frutas, vegetais, plantas, sementes, comida, insetos: Sim Não (b) carnes, animais, produtos animais/silvestres: Sim Não

customs & immigration travel info

(c) agentes de doenças, culturas de células, caracóis: Sim (d) solo ou estive (estivemos) em fazenda/rancho/pasto: Sim 12. Tive (Tivemos) contato próximo com animais de fazenda: (tocar ou manusear os animais) Sim 13. Estou (Estamos) portanto dinheiro ou instrumentos monetários no valor excedente a $10.000 dólares americanos, ou o equivalente em moeda estrangeira: (ver a definição de instrumentos monetários no verso) Sim 14. Tenho (Temos) mercadorias comerciais: (artigos para venda, amostras usadas para pedidos de compra, ou bens que não são considerados efeitos pessoais) Sim 15. RESIDENTES – o valor total de todos os bens, incluindo as mercadorias comerciais que comprei ou adquiri/compramos ou adquirimos no exterior (incluindo presentes para outra pessoa, mas não itens enviados por correio para os EUA) e que estou/estamos trazendo para os EUA é: US$ VISITANTES – o valor total de todos os artigos que permanecerão nos EUA, incluindo mercadorias comerciais, é: US$

Não Não Não

Firma

Não Não

Leia as instruções no verso deste formulário. Há um espaço você enumerar todos os itens que deve declarar. LI AS INFORMAÇÕES IMPORTANTES NO VERSO DESTE FORMULÁRIO E ESTA DECLARAÇÃO É EXPRESSÃO DA VERDADE. Assinatura _____________________________ Data (mês/dia/ano) ___________

Spanish / Español Todo viajero que llegue, o miembro responsable de familia, debe proveer la siguiente información (se requiere solo UNA declaración escrita por familia). La palabra “familia” se define como “miembros de una familia que residen en el mismo hogar, que están relacionados por consaguinidad, matrimonio, relación doméstica o adopción”. 1. Apellido de la familia, Nombre de pila (otorgado) 2. Fecha de nacimiento: Mes, Día, Año 3. Número de miembros de la familia que viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección postal de los EE. UU. (nombre del hotel/destino) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido por (país) 6. Número de pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países visitados en este viaje antes de la llegada a los EE. UU. 9. Aerolínea/N.º de vuelo o Nombre de la embarcación 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es negocios: Sí No 11. Traigo (traemos) Sí No (a) frutas, verduras, plantas, semillas, alimentos, insectos: Sí No (b) carnes, animales, productos animales/de vida silvestre: Sí No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles: Sí No (d) tierra, o hemos estado en un rancho/granja/ pastizales: Sí No 12. He estado (hemos estado) en cercana proximidad de ganado: (como por ejemplo, tocándolo o manipulándolo) Sí No 13. Traigo (traemos) dinero o instrumentos monetarios por una cantidad superior a USD 10 000 o su equivalente en otra moneda: (ver la definición de instrumentos monetarios al dorso) Sí No 14. Tengo (tenemos) mercadería comercial: (artículos para la venta, muestras que se usan para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no se consideran efectos personales) Sí No 15. RESIDENTES: el valor total de todos los bienes, incluida la mercadería comercial que he/hemos adquirido/comprado en el exterior (incluidos regalos para alguna otra persona, que no son artículos que se han enviado por correo a los EE. UU.) y que traigo/traemos a los EE. UU. es: USD VISITANTES: el valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE. UU., incluida la mercadería comercial es: USD Lea las instrucciones en el dorso de este formulario. Se provee

100

espacio para hacer una lista de todos los artículos que usted debe declarar. HE LEÍDO TODA LA INFORMACIÓN IMPORTANTE EN EL DORSO DE ESTE FORMULARIO Y HE REALIZADO UNA DECLARACIÓN VERAZ. Fecha (mes/día/año)

Dutch / Nederlands Elk arriverende reiziger of verantwoordelijk familielid moet de volgende gegevens verstrekken (ÉÉN ingevulde verklaring per familie is vereist). Het woord “familie” wordt gedefinieerd als “leden van een familie die in hetzelfde huis wonen en die met elkaar door bloedband, huwelijk of partnerschap, of adoptie verbonden zijn”. 1. Familienaam, voornaam (zoals vermeld in paspoort), tussenvoegsel 2. Geboortedatum: maand/dag/jaar 3. Aantal familieleden die met u meereizen 4. (a) Amerikaans straatadres (hotelnaam/bestemming) (b) stad, (c) staat 5. Paspoort afgegeven door (land) 6. Paspoortnummer 7. Woonachtig in (Land) 8. Landen bezocht tijdens deze reis vóór aankomst in de V.S. 9. Luchtvaartmij-/Vluchtnr. of Naam v/h Schip 10. Hoofddoel van deze reis is business: Ja Nee 11. Ik (we) breng(en) Ja Nee (a) vruchten, groenten, planten, zaden, voedsel, insecten: Ja Nee (b) vlees, dieren, dierlijke/ flora-fauna-producten: Ja Nee (c) ziekteverwekkers, celculturen, slakken: Ja Nee (d) aarde of zijn op/in een boerderij/ranch/weiland geweest: Ja Nee 12. Ik was (Wij waren) in de nabijheid van vee: (zoals het aanraken of het behandelen) Ja Nee 13. Ik heb (Wij hebben) valuta of monetaire instrumenten bij ons van meer dan 10.000 US$ of equivalent in buitenlandse valuta (voor een definitie van monetair instrument, zie achterzijde) Ja Nee 14. Ik heb (Wij hebben) commerciële goederen: (artikelen te koop, monsters gebruikt voor het werven van klanten of goederen die niet als persoonlijke bezittingen beschouwd worden). Ja Nee 15. INGEZETENEN – de totale waarde van alle goederen, met inbegrip van commerciële koopwaren die ik/wij in het buitenland hebben gekocht of verworven, (geschenken voor een ander inbegrepen, maar geen artikelen die per post naar de V.S. verstuurd worden) en die ik/wij naar de V.S. breng(en), is: $ BEZOEKERS – de totale waarde van alle artikelen die in de V.S. zullen blijven, met inbegrip van commerciële goederen, is: $ Lees de instructies op de achterzijde van dit formulier. Er is ruimteom alle artikelen op te sommen die u moet aangeven. IK HEB DE BELANGRIJKE INFORMATIE OP DE ACHTERZIJDE VAN DIT FORMULIER GELEZEN EN HEB EEN WAARHEIDSGETROUWE VERKLARING AFGELEGD. Handtekening

Datum (maand/dag/jaar)

Japanese / 日本語到着する渡航者各個人、または家族の世帯主には、以下の情報を提供することが義務づけられています（申告書は一家族につき一通のみです）。「家族」とは、血縁関係、婚姻関係、慣習婚姻関係、または養子縁組による家族関係を持ち、同じ世帯に居住している者を意味します。 1. 姓（苗字）、名（ファーストネーム）、ミドルネーム 2. 誕生年月日: 月、日、西暦年 3. 渡航に同行している家族の人数（ホテルの名称・訪問先） 4. (a) 米国における滞在・居住先の住所（番地と通り） (b) 市、(c) 州 5. 旅券発行国 6. 旅券番号

travel info

7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

居住国今回渡米に先立って訪れた国・国々航空会社・便名もしくは船舶名今回の渡米の主要目的はビジネスです: はい私（私達）は、以下の物品を所持しています: はいはい (a) 果物類、野菜類、植物類、種物、食物、昆虫類: はい (b) 肉類、動物、動物／野生生物製品: はい (c) 病因体、細胞培養、巻貝類: (d) 土壌、あるいは、私（私達）は、農場・牧場・牧草地にいました: はい 12. 私（私達）は、家畜の近くにいました: （家畜との接触、または処理・扱いなど）はい 13. 私（私達）は、現在通貨、または、金融商品にして、10,000ドル以上の米ドル、または、それに相当する外国通貨を所持しています: （金融商品の定義は裏面参照）はい 14. 私（私達）は、市販用商品を所持しています（ : 販売対象になる商品、または、発注を促す目的で使用する試供品、または、個人の身の回りの所持品の範疇に当てはまらない物品）はい 15. 米国居住者 - 市販用商品を含め、海外で購入、あるいは取得した物品（他人への贈与品も含める、ただし米国に郵送したものは含まない）の総額: $ 渡航訪問者 - 米国に残していく物品の総額（市販用商品を含める）: $

いいえいいえいいえいいえいいえいいえいいえ

いいえ

customs & immigration

4. (a) 在美国的街道地址（旅店名/目的地），(b) 城市，(c) 州 5. 护照签发方（国家） 6. 护照号码 7. 居住国 8. 此次旅行抵达美国前访问过的国家 9. 航空公司/航班号或船名 10. 此次旅行的主要目的是商务吗？ 11. 我（我们）携带了 (a) 水果、蔬菜、植物、种子、食物、昆虫： (b) 肉类、动物、动物/野生物产品： (c) 病原体、细胞培养物、蜗牛： (d) 土壤或到过农场/牧场/ 放牧草场： 12. 我（我们）曾经与家畜近距离接近过：（例如触摸或处理） 13. 我（我们）携带了超过 10,000 美元或等值外币的货币或（请参考此表格背面有关金融票据的定义）金融票据：

いいえ

この書式の裏面にある記入説明文をお読みください。申告義務のあるすべての品目について記入する欄が設けてあります。私は、この書式の裏面にある重要な情報項目を読み、真実に基づいた申告をしました。

是不是

或非个人使用的物品）

是不是

15. 居民 – 包括商品在内的我/我们在国外购买或获得（包括给别人的礼物赠品，但不包括经邮寄到美国的物项）并携带进入美国的全部物品总价值是：访客 – 包括商品在内的将留在美国的全部物件总价值是：

$ $

请阅读此表格背面的说明。有空白处供您列出所有必须申报的项目。我已阅读了表此格背面的重要信息，并已如实申报。

日期（月/日/年）

日付（月/日/年）

Vietnamese / Tiếng Việt

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14. 我（我们）有商品：（销售用物件、用来推销获取订单的样品、

签名署名

是是是是是是是

ᅊ⪆(❾/⠦/ ᇮ)

Chinese / 中文每位抵达的旅客或家庭负责人必须提供下列信息（每个家庭只需填写一张申报表）。 “家庭”的定义是“因血缘、婚姻、同居伴侣关系、或领养而住在同一住户的家庭成员”。 1. 姓、名、中间名 2. 出生日期：月/日/年 3. 与您一同旅行的家庭成员人数

Mỗi người du hành hoặc mỗi người chủ gia đình đến Hoa Kỳ phải cung cấp các thông tin sau đây (mỗi gia đình chỉ cần điền MỘT tờ khai cho cả gia đình). Từ “gia đình” dùng để chỉ “các thành viên của một gia đình ở chung một nhà và có liên hệ với nhau qua huyết thống, hôn nhân, sống chung, hoặc nhận làm con nuôi.” 1. Họ , Tên, Chữ lót 2. Tháng ngày năm sinh: Tháng, Ngày, Năm 3. Số người trong gia đình đi cùng quý vị 4. (a) Địa chỉ tại Hoa Kỳ (tên khách sạn/điểm đến), (b) Thành phố (c) Tiểu bang 5. Hộ chiếu cấp bởi (quốc gia) 6. Số hộ chiếu 7. Quốc gia cư trú 8. Các nước đã ghé trong chuyến đi này trước khi đến Hoa Kỳ 9. Hãng hàng không/Số chuyến bay hoặc Tên chiếc tàu Đúng Sai 10. Mục đích chính của chuyến đi này là kinh doanh: 11. Tôi (Chúng tôi) có mang theo Đúng Sai (a) các loại trái cây, rau quả, cây cỏ, hạt giống, thức ăn, côn trùng: Đúng Sai (b) các loại thịt, động vật, sản phẩm làm từ động vật/động vật hoang dã: Đúng Sai (c) tác nhân gây bệnh, nuôi cấy tế bào, ốc hến: Đúng Sai (d) đất hoặc đã đến một nông trại/trang trại/đồng cỏ: Đúng Sai 12. Tôi (Chúng tôi) có tiếp xúc với gia súc: (chẳng hạn như đụng chạm hoặc làm thịt) Đúng Sai 13. Tôi (Chúng tôi) mang theo tiền mặt hoặc công cụ tiền tệ trên 10.000 đô la Mỹ hoặc ngoại tệ tương đương: (xem giải thích về công cụ tiền tệ ở mặt sau) Đúng Sai 14. Tôi (Chúng tôi) có hàng hóa thương mại: (hàng để bán, mẫu mã dùng để mời chào người mua, hoặc hàng hóa không được kể là là vật dụng cá nhân) Đúng Sai 15. CƯ DÂN TẠI MỸ – tổng giá trị của tất cả các hàng hóa, kể cả hàng hóa thương mại mà tôi/chúng tôi đã mua hoặc nhận ở nước ngoài (kể cả quà tặng cho người khác, nhưng không phải những món đã gửi về Hoa Kỳ) cộng với những món mà tôi/chúng tôi mang vào Hoa Kỳ là: $ DU KHÁCH – tổng giá trị các món sẽ để lại Hoa Kỳ, kể cả hàng hóa thương mại là: $ Xin đọc các hướng dẫn ở mặt sau của mẫu này. Có chỗ để liệt kê tất cả các món quý vị phải khai báo. TÔI ĐÃ ĐỌC THÔNG TIN QUAN TRỌNG Ở MẶT SAU CỦA MẪU NÀY VÀ ĐÃ KHAI ĐÚNG SỰ THẬT.

Chữ ký

Ngày (tháng/ngày/năm)

101

Free entertainment streamed directly to your device.

ENTERTAINMENT MOVIES & TV

AUDIO

PERSONAL DEVICE ENTERTAINMENT

Finding Dory Enjoy movies and shows on the mainscreen or on your personal displays in October

What to Watch:

Most ﬁlms have been edited for airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a ﬁlm.

Star Trek Beyond Captain America: Civil War Neighbors 2: Sorority Rising Digital media loading occurs between the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.

*Available on personal device entertainment and select seatback on-demand entertainment systems

103

movies & tv

entertainment

Featured entertainment this month

movies

[T] = Adult themes

We offer a variety of entertainment options across our fleet. See your safety card to find out which type of aircraft you’re flying on today, and read on in this entertainment section for more details about programming. Sponsored by the MileagePlus® Explorer Card

PERSONAL DEVICE ENTERTAINMENT Watch free movies and TV shows on your own device. Available on the following aircraft types:

Star Trek Beyond [T]

Finding Dory

2 hr. 2 min. In the 13th installment of the Star Trek ﬁlm series, the crew of the starship Enterprise embarks on a rescue mission, only to be ambushed by the alien Krall. With their ship destroyed, the scattered crewmembers must ﬁght on to prevent Krall from assembling an ancient bioweapon that could put galactic peace at risk. FEATURING

FREE ACCESS

Chris Pine, Zoe Saldana Lin

1 hr. 37 min. Dory, the forgetful blue tang, is living happily in the reef with Nemo and Marlin. But one day a sudden ﬂashback causes Dory to remember that she has a family who may be looking for her, so the trio sets off on yet another life-changing adventure—this time all the way to the coast of California—to ﬁnd them. FEATURING

DIRECTED BY Justin

Ellen DeGeneres, Albert Brooks Stanton

DIRECTED BY Andrew

A319/A320, select 737, 747, select 757-300*, select 767-300, select 777-200, select 787, CRJ700, E170 and E175 aircraft

See page 105 for more information. *Personal device entertainment is not available on aircraft that offer DIRECTV.

SEATBACK ENTERTAINMENT Choose from our library of entertainment options right on your seatback monitor. Available on the following aircraft types:

p.s. 757

International 757, 767, 777, and 787 aircraft

International 747 (in premium cabins only)

Select 737 aircraft flying to and from Guam and Micronesia

TV programming and movies from DIRECTV are complimentary in premium cabins and available for purchase in United Economy.

Marvel’s Captain America: Civil War [T]

Neighbors 2: Sorority Rising [T]

2 hr. 27 min. When the government sets up

1 hr. 32 min. In the sequel to the hit comedy

a governing body to oversee the Avengers, the team splinters into two camps—one led by Steve Rogers and his desire for the Avengers to remain free of government interference, and the other following Tony Stark’s surprising support of oversight and accountability.

Neighbors, married parents Mac and Kelly are preparing to sell their house. But when a sorority moves in next door, and threatens the sale, Mac and Kelly are forced to turn to Teddy, their former nemesis from the Delta Psi fraternity, to help battle the wild young women.

FEATURING Chris Evans, Robert Downey DIRECTED BY Anthony Russo, Joe Russo

FEATURING Seth Rogen, Zac Efron DIRECTED BY Nicholas Stoller

Jr.

television/short features

Available on the following aircraft types:

Select 737 and select 757-300 aircraft

See pages 106-107 for program information. Personal device entertainment is not available on aircraft that offer DIRECTV.

Air Jaws: Night Stalker 43 min. Shark photographer Chris Fallows

Customers are welcome to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

104

NCIS: New Orleans

attempts to discover how great white sharks hunt in total darkness.

45 min. The team joins the city’s annual Red Dress Run but must bow out when a petty ofﬁcer is found dead from a drug overdose.

FEATURING Chris Fallows, Lena Headey PRESENTED BY Discovery Channel

FEATURING Scott Bakula, PRESENTED BY CBS

Lucas Black

entertainment

Personal device entertainment instructions 1

personal device entertainment

Enjoy free movies and TV shows Personal device entertainment lets you access a free onboard library of movies and TV shows that you can watch on your own device during the flight.

Connect to Wi-Fi network On all devices, enable airplane mode and Wi-Fi, then connect to the “United_Wi-Fi” network. There is no charge to connect to this network for the ability to watch free onboard entertainment.

Watch on a laptop

Watch on mobile devices†

Download the app in advance (or purchase Wi-Fi internet to download in ﬂight) and watch for free.

Open browser Go to www.unitedwiﬁ.com Due to a change made by Google, Chrome support is temporarily unavailable. Please use one of our other supported browsers.

Select entertainment

2 3

Go to www.unitedwiﬁ.com or Open the United app and select Entertainment from the menu.

Select entertainment

FOR A LIST OF SUPPORTED DEVICES, VISIT UNITED.COM/PDE

You may be prompted to download and install a plug-in (administrative rights needed). Apple or Android devices

Note that devices must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

550

Over planes equipped with personal device entertainment

Open browser or app

Play

†

Sponsored by the MileagePlus® Explorer Card

Play If you have the latest version of the United app, play any show. Without the United app, you can play select programs.

Apple users may receive a message to disable Privacy Mode in order to watch personal device entertainment. To disable Privacy Mode in the Safari browser, go to Settings, click on Safari, and check that cookies are not blocked. On 737s with personal device entertainment, devices with Android 6.0+ are currently unsupported. Android 6.0+ is supported on all other aircraft with personal device entertainment.

Can your screen be seen?

Personal device entertainment installation progress Visit united.com/pde for the latest updates A319 100% complete

A320 100% complete

737 100% complete Excludes DIRECTV aircraft

747-400 100% complete

Please be mindful of those around you when watching entertainment content, and try to make sure that any children seated near you aren’t able to see scenes with violence or adult themes..

757 25% complete Excludes DIRECTV aircraft

767 50% complete

777 50% complete

Explorer: Bill Nye’s Global Meltdown 45 min. The Science Guy experiences the ﬁve stages

Diners, Drive-ins and Dives

of climate change grief—from denial to acceptance— and explores how we can start to turn things around.

22 min. Guy Fieri goes cruisin’ the islands with his buddy, chef Reno Henriques, on a culinary tour of Maui, Hawaii.

FEATURING Bill Nye PRESENTED BY National

FEATURING Guy Fieri PRESENTED BY Food Network

Geographic Channel

787 75% complete

CRJ700/E170/E175 98% complete Excludes aircraft retirements

105

directv®

entertainment

What you want to watch You can select from more than 100 channels of live television along with a full slate of blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire ﬂight.

HOW TO USE 1. Swipe your card* to begin. 2. Select your channel or movie and start watching. 3. Listen using your own headset or ask a flight attendant for complimentary earbuds. Your purchase is good for the entire flight, even when the aircraft door is open before takeoff, and you can turn the TV on and off throughout your flight. please note: Personal device entertainment is not offered on aircraft with seatback DIRECTV *MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted. TV and movies are complimentary in first class.

TV Channels live television, movies, sitcoms, and dramas A&E AMERICAN HEROES ANIMAL PLANET BBC AMERICA BEIN SPORTS BET BIG 10 BLOOMBERG BOOM BRAVO BYU TV CARTOON NETWORK CBS (WCBS) CBS CENTRIC CHILLER CLOO CMT CNBC CNN COMEDY CENTRAL COOK C-SPAN C-SPAN2 CW NETWORK DESTINATION AMERICA DISCOVERY DISCOVERY FAMILY

265 287 282 264 620 329 610 353 298 237 374 296 002 390 330 257 308 327 355 202 249 232 350 351 394 286 278 294

DISNEY DISNEY JR. DISNEY XD DIY E! ESPN ESPN CLASSIC ESPN2 ESPNEWS ESQUIRE ESPNU FOOD NETWORK FOX (WNYW) FOX FOX BUSINESS FOX NEWS FOX SPORTS 1 FOX SPORTS 2 FREEFORM FX FX MOVIE FXX FYI GALAVISION GOLF GSN HALLMARK HGTV

290 289 292 230 236 206 614 209 207 235 208 231 005 398 359 360 219 618 311 248 258 259 266 404 218 233 312 229

HISTORY HEADLINE NEWS INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MLB NETWORK MSNBC MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NAT GEO WILD NBATV NBC (WNBC) NBC NBC SPORTS NEWSMAX NFL NETWORK NICK NICK JR. NICKTOONS NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OXYGEN PIVOT POP

269 204 285 280 252 253 375 213 356 331 332 276 283 216 004 392 220 349 212 299 301 302 378 606 274 251 267 273

RFD TV SCIENCE SEC NETWORK SPIKE SPORTSMAN SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV LAND TVG UNIVISION UP TV USA NETWORK VH1 VH1 CLASSIC VICE WEATHER WGN WORD

345 284 611 241 605 244 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 304 602 402 338 242 335 336 271 362 307 373

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on ﬂights outside the continental United States. The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and United Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure or any other cause. ©2013 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

Group Discount

2off

each purchase.

106

Traveling with family or friends? Swipe the same card on three or more screens and receive $2 off each purchase.

entertainment

directv®

Movies Choose from a lineup of top Hollywood films The best from the box office are yours for the choosing! This month, join the search in Finding Dory, get ready to laugh with Kevin Hart and Dwayne Johnson in Central Intelligence, pick your side in Captain America: Civil War, and meet the world’s first mutant in X-Men: Apocalypse. Other options include Independence Day: Resurgence, Mike and Dave Need Wedding Dates, The Nice Guys, and Me Before You.

Tribeca Films Enjoy selections from the Tribeca Film Festival® Enjoy selections from the Tribeca Film Festival,® including Cuddle Party, Homeland, and The Best Driver in the County. United Airlines is proud to be the ofﬁcial airline of the Tribeca Film Festival.®

107

movies & tv entertainment

B747 Economy Mainscreen Programming UNITED KINGDOM GERMANY

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult themes

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Star Trek Beyond [T] 2 hr., 2 min. [e, f, g] Julie & Julia [T] 2 hr., 0 min. [e, f, g]

Finding Dory 1 hr., 37 min. [e, f, g] The Social Network [T] 1 hr., 59 min. [e, f, g] 2 hr.

2 hr.

Alice Through the Looking Glass 1 hr., 48 min. [e, f, g] We Bought a Zoo 2 hr., 3 min. [e, f, g] 2 hr. AUSTRALIA JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA CHINA & HONG KONG

Finding Dory 1 hr., 37 min. [e, j, k, c] The Social Network [T] 1 hr., 59 min. [e, j, k, c]

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles: Out of the Shadows [T] 1 hr., 52 min. [e, f, g] 2 hr. Crazy, Stupid, Love [T] 1 hr., 54 min. [e, f, g] Star Trek Beyond [T] 2 hr., 2 min. [e, j, k, c] Julie & Julia [T] 2 hr., 0 min. [e, j, k, c]

2 hr.

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles: Out of the Shadows [T] 1 hr., 52 min. [e, j, k, c] 2 hr. Crazy, Stupid, Love [T] 1 hr., 54 min. [e, j, k, c]

Alice Through the Looking Glass 1 hr., 48 min. [e, j, c] We Bought a Zoo 2 hr., 3 min. [e, j, k, c] 2 hr.

B767 Economy Seatback Entertainment (on three-cabin aircraft) CH.

EASTBOUND/SOUTHBOUND

WESTBOUND/NORTHBOUND

Star Trek Beyond [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Finding Dory [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Julie & Julia [e, f, g, i, s, p]

The Social Network [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Central Intelligence [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Mike and Dave Need Wedding Dates [e, f, g, i, s, p] DISCRETION ADVISED

The Shallows [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Independence Day: Resurgence [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Captain Fantastic [e] DISCRETION ADVISED

Hunt for the Wilderpeople [e]

The Angry Birds Movie [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Hotel Transylvania [e, f, g, i, s, p]

PRIMETIME

Explorer: Bill Nyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Global Meltdown/ Diners, Drive-ins and Dives/Tiny House Nation

My Millennial Life/The Autistic Gardener/ Pop ProďŹ les

COMEDY

The Big Bang Theory/Mom/ Brooklyn Nine-Nine/The Odd Couple/ Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Always Sunny in Philadelphia DISCRETION ADVISED

New Girl/The Middle/The Last Man on Earth/ Dr. Ken/Bobâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Burgers

PREMIUM TELEVISION/ AIRSHOW

Whose Line Is It Anyway? (x5)

Air Jaws: Night Stalker/Sharks vs. Dolphins: Face Off/ Tiger Beach

RECENT FAVORITES FAMILY/ KIDS

737 Guam/Micronesia Entertainment SEATBACK

MAINSCREEN

CH.

CHANNEL INFORMATION

WESTBOUND/NORTHBOUND

1 2 3 4

Information Channel/Instructions

Finding Dory 1 hr., 37 min. [e, j, k, c]

Central Intelligence [T] [E, K] A Selection of Tribeca Film Festival Shorts [E] Six Four: Part 2 [E, J]

6 7 8 9 10

Star Trek Beyond [T] [E, J] Finding Dory [E, J] Independence Day: Resurgence [T] [E, J, C]

EASTBOUND/SOUTHBOUND

Star Trek Beyond 2 hr., 2 min. [T] [e, j, k, c]

0.5mm [E, J] Phantom Detective [E, K] The Bodyguard [E, C]

737 aircraft serving Guam/Micronesia will have either seatback or mainscreen entertainment. Aircraft may feature these ďŹ lms or other selections.

United is proud to be the official airline of the Tribeca Film FestivalÂŽ and offer exclusive inflight content. Here are a Listen Up Phillip few of this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s features.

108

The Truth About Emanuel

Homeland

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Cuddle Party

The Best Driver in the County

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Audio Channels by Aircraft Music in the Air: Vevo and United Each month, the video experts at Vevo comb their immense library and serve up selections to get the party started at 40,000 feet. The menu includes music from all genres and features both superstars and newcomers. Download the free Vevo app when you arrive at your destination— your new favorite artist is waiting.*

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2 1980s

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