Madagascar by Bookletia

A word from the Chairman

of the Board Welcome!

his new edition of our sales manual will, we hope, highlight the vast and constantly developing tourism assets of our Great Island.

Despite the global financial crisis from which we have not been spared, private tourist operators have, in fact, continued to create new products and improve their services.

Their actions are supported by all the Regional Tourist Offices (ORT), industry groups and in particular the National Tourism Board (ONTM) to provide a sustainable approach to develop all our activities. ‘Responsible’ tourists, attracted by our “adventure & discovery” tours, are increasingly sure of being able to visit our country while having the least possible impact on its fragile natural environment and with full respect for the hospitable local people. Together, the ORT and the ONTM keep in regular contact with source markets by taking part in many international trade fairs or training and informing our partners. Familiarisation and press trips have been organized so that professionals may judge “in situ” the peace prevailing in the country at a time when it has been offered promising new horizons of hope. We hope that this sales manual encourages you to promote an emerging destination with attractions such as the endemic wildlife and plants that mark our extremely varied but harmonious scenery. Eric KOLLER Chairman of the Board of Directors

A word from the Executive

Director Tonga soa!

ssuing this new sales manual reflects our commitment to fully supporting our partners who, day after day, have to answer travellers’ increasingly sophisticated questions about our beautiful destination. Compared with previous editions, the major innovation is the highlighted tour descriptions. We wanted to go a step further that what is in the brochures, and make the document quick and easy to read. It also contains detailed information on outstanding places mentioned in the tours, to enrich our travel agent partners’ sales pitch.

As Madagascar’s biodiversity is our key product, we have particularly emphasized the protected areas managed by Madagascar National Parks in this sales manual. Finally, a lot of information for theme-based travel enthusiasts is provided in this precious document. We hope all our partners will find this a successful and fruitful tool! Vola RAVELOSON Executive Director

At least

5 reasons for

Madagascar is an exceptional destination thanks to the highly varied types of tourism possible here, organized around main interests. These include: the seaside, the range of water sports, nature conservation, adventure sports and the discovery of both country and regional culture and traditions..

selling

1 | A small continent on a very large island The wealth on offer means that Madagascar cannot be confined to simple clichés, and has its place among leading travel choices. From the swell of the Indian Ocean to the calm of the west coast, from the northern ‘arrowhead’ to the almost perfect ‘bow’ of the south coast, no two sites are alike. In terms of civilisation, the Malagasy have also succeeded in cultivating the diversity handed down from their distant migrant roots, which sometimes makes the Great Island a mystery country lying somewhere between Africa and Asia. That’s what is so intriguing, attractive and seductive about it.

2 | ENDEMIC nature rareLY FOUND ELSEWHERE Madagascar’s leading tourist product is nature, 80% of the wildlife and 90% of its plants being endemic. We can choose birdwatching to illustrate the excitement it can generate, as minority niche tourism for very specialized enthusiasts. Birdwatchers may travel long distances – there is a Friends of the Madagascar Fody Club in the United States – but they know what they want, and will find it in Madagascar. They observe, take photos, list, record and are not bothered about going out into the forest at night. When the passion for nature has you in its grip!

3 | A LAND FOR SUSTAINABLE tourism Should we thank erosion? In one sense yes, since it has chiselled out these masterpieces known as Isalo, Bemaraha, and many others that are so many strong arguments for touring these destinations. But there is another sort of erosion which is calculated not in tens of millions of years, but in generations at risk, resulting from man’s unconsciously suicidal pressure on his own environment. Sustainable tourism is more than a passing fad and is taking action against such destruction, thanks to ethics that unite visitors and their hosts. In Madagascar it is now very present, better understood, and centres for it are springing up all over the regions.

1. A

few tour suggestions page 6 to 12

4 | OFF THE BEATEN TRACK, ADVENTURE tourism

Unique nature page 14 to 21

3. Between land and sea

The Great Island offers sport tourists more adventure playgrounds than they could possibly want. Operators long ago identified the country’s potential and the standard of their services has improved regularly, opening even more new, natural and authentic doors to thrill-seekers. Perhaps the best ambassador to be found for this type of tourism is the Tsaranoro Andringitra, a climbing spot renowned the world over. The German climbers who were the first to take on its big granite walls in 1995 still remember the experience…

page 22 to 25

Outdoor sports page 26 to 29

5 | SEAS FOR EVERYONE With 5,000 km of coastline, Madagascar is synonymous with vast stretches of sea with seas and coastlines for all tastes. Malagasy waters are a wealth of recreational activities for enthusiasts, from scuba-diving in some of the world’s most beautiful spots to sailing from island to island on yachts, and humpback whale-watching from July to September.

Heritage and culture page 30 to 35

Sustainable Tourism page 36 to 39

Several destinations in one? So goes Madagascar and its “tourisms”. See you soon!

7. In UNESCO’s

World Heritage

page 40 to 43

Madagascar

few tour suggestions

Madagascar, a mysterious land, gives up its secrets only to those who can listen and understand, and take the time to discover it. Go beyond its beaches and lagoons, off the beaten track, and learn to know and love its traditionally hospitable people. Madagascar has breathtaking scenery, where cultures and traditions meet, making it an exceptional country, a unique land. A land of adventure, a nature sanctuary: all adjectives to describe Madagascar. Let us guide you on a simple but exciting journey of unusual and original discovery…

GRAND TOUR OF THE SOUTH 14 days / 13 nights DAY 1 : ArrivAL AT Ivato AIRPORT Antananarivo DAY 2 : Antananarivo - Visit the Upper Town, enshrining the memory of the City of a Thousand: Palaces, stone churches, the royal square, old houses, gazebos overlooking the Lower Town and the surrounding plain… - The Middle Town and Lower Town: shops and craft markets, city features such as the flights of steps, contrasting styles of architecture, historic buildings and squares… - The Ambohimanga Hill: cradle of the Merina monarchy. Listed as a UNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage site. - May include Ilafy and its small Rova (old royal house).

DAY 3 : Antananarivo > Antsirabe - First section of the Highway (RN) 7 from Antananarivo to Tulear. Typical Highland scenery, villages and fields as far as the eye can see, vendors’ stalls lining the road… - Stop at Ambatolampy: Visit the aluminium craftsmen’s workshops. - Antsirabe: a spa town to discover by rickshaw or pedicab. A centre for the food and textile industries. quality craftsmanship, especially gemstones. Opportunities for hiking round the villages.

DAY 4 : Antsirabe > Ambositra > Fianarantsoa - Ambositra, an hour and a half’s drive from Antsirabe. The woodworking capital, strongly inspired by the nearby Zafimaniry whose art is listed in UNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage. Visit craft shops and sculptors’ workshops. - On to Fianarantsoa (3 1/2 hours) on a winding road through some of the most beautiful views in the Highlands: Tapia forest, hills and valleys dotted with typical villages, terraced rice fields…

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DAY 5 : fianarantsoa > Manakara

DAY 10 : THE Isalo NATIONAL PARK

- The Fianarantsoa-Manakara train and its occasionally cliffhugging journey to the heart of the primeval forest. One of the steepest railways in the world with 21 tunnels, 42 bridges and 12 stations on only 163km of track.

- Transfer for a day of discovery on foot in one of the largest and most popular Parks in Madagascar. Several options depending on your interests and physical ability for walking: natural pool, canyons, unique ruin-type rock formations...

DAY 6 : Manakara and the Pangalanes canal

DAY 11 : Ranohira > TulEar > Ifaty

- Opportunity for a canoe ride on the Pangalanes Canal from Manakara. This waterway runs parallel to the coast from Farafangana in the south-east to north of Tamatave.

- Going further south through the mushrooming villages of sapphire miners including the most famous one, Ilakaka. The RN7 then passes through the eastern part of the Zombitse Vohibasia National Park, with its wealth of wildlife and plants. An easy walk to discover the Park’s treasures. - Tulear, almost straddling the Tropic of Capricorn. An opportunity to visit the Museum of Mahafaly Art and oral traditions which tells the story of the ways and customs of the peoples of the south. Carry on to Ifaty.

DAY 7 : Manakara > Ranomafana - Transfer by road to Ranomafana (3 1/2 hours), the second hot springs site in Madagascar. Discover the Tanala, literally “the forest people”, with their villages built of tree trunks and leaves.

DAY 8 : Ranomafana > FIANARANTSOA > Ambalavao

DAY 12 : Ifaty

- Guided tour of Ranomafana National Park, listed in UNESCO’s Natural World Heritage. Discover the East Coast’s main animal and plant varieties. - On by road to Fianarantsoa (1 hour): Walking tour of the Old Town listed as an Area of Historical and Architectural Interest. - Ambalavao (1 1/2 hours): the Malagasy wine centre and zebu market town (Wednesdays and Thursdays). - Discover the famous Antemoro paper made from tree bark, and Betsileo “arindrano” fabrics.

- The fishing villages of Ifaty located about thirty kilometres north of Tulear. Several possible activities: outrigger canoe rides, swimming in the lagoon protected by a coral reef, scuba-diving or snorkeling, hiking in the back country to discover the baobabs and spiny forest, meeting the Vezo people and their way of life centered on the sea, in the villages of Ifaty and Mangily. - Visit the Reniala Park, observe several wildlife species (birds, lemurs, tortoises) and plants (baobabs, euphorbia and various thorny plants) endemic in the south.

DAY 9 : Ambalavao > Ranohira

DAY 13 : Ifaty > TulEar > Antananarivo

- Transfer by road to Ranohira (1/2 day) and not forgetting a stop at the Anjà Reserve near Ambalavao to learn about village tourism management. Typical scenery of the Middle South with grasslands dotted with baobabs, traditional tombs, rock formations and stretches of desert. Symbolic entry through the “Gates to the South” before crossing the town of Ihosy. - First “contacts” with the Isalo National Park: Guide Centre, sunset through the “Isalo Window”…

- Transfer (1 1/4 hours) from Ifaty to Tulear airport and flight back to Antananarivo.

DAY 14 : Antananarivo > international returN FLIGHT (oR cARRY ON YOUR CUSTOMIZED programme)

NORTHERN TOUR 8 days / 7 nights DAY 1 : ArrivAL AT Ivato AIRPORT Antananarivo DAY 2 : Antananarivo > Diego Suarez - Flight to Diego Suarez (1 1/2 hours) capital of the North with its cosmopolitan people, colonnaded houses, Renault 4L taxi fleet, and above all its bay, a member of the Association of the World’s Most Beautiful Bays. - Visit the Amber Mountain National Park, near Joffreville, about thirty kilometres south-west of the city. The oldest Madagascar Park, a true paradise for nature lovers and hikers, and a water source for the whole area. Opportunity to spend the night there or return to Diego Suarez.

DAY 3 : Diego Suarez > THE 3 BaYs > Diego Suarez - Quick transfer (45 min) by car to the village of Ramena then on to discover the 3 Bays: Dune Bay, Pigeon Bay, and Sakalava Bay. White sand and turquoise waters in a magnificent setting. For Sakalava bay, an added “extra” is kite boarding. - Half-way between Diego Suarez and Ramena, French Mountain with its Way of the Cross, remnants of its military history, its reputation as a popular spot for rock climbers. A superb view over the bay of Diego Suarez and its Sugar Loaf.

DAY 4 : Diego > THE RED TSINGY > THE Ankarana Tsingy - 1 1/2 hour drive to the Red Tsingy of Irodo. Carry on to the village of Ankarana (2 1/4 hours) through the village of Anivorano and its sacred lake where the crocodiles are revered by the local people. Arrival in Mahamasina, the eastern entrance to the Ankarana Tsingy. First visits, back to Mahamasina, dinner and overnight stay.

DAY 5 : THE Ankarana Tsingy national ParK > Ambanja - With a local guide, walking tour of the Ankarana Tsingy National Park. Several tour options: the Rary Tsingy, the Bat Cave, the Disappearing Rivers, the Tsingy Turrets… - Carry on to Ambanja (3 1/2 hours) through forests of Ravinala (traveller’s trees), coffee, cocoa and ylang-ylang plantations.

DAY 7 : Nosy Komba and Nosy tanikely - Excursion to the island of Nosy Komba or Lemur Island, also known for the embroidery worked by the island’s craftswomen. - Carry by boat to Nosy Tanikely and its Marine Park renowned for the wealth and beauty of its seabed.

DAY 6 : Ambanja > Nosy Be - Morning transfer to Ankify (30 min) and boat trip (30 min) to Nosy Be. - Visit the remains of Marodoka, an ancient village of Arab and Indian traders now overgrown by vegetation, and discover the Lokobe National Park, a natural forest typical of the Sambirano region. - Visit distilleries of ylang ylang and other essential oils. - End the day at Mount Passot to watch a spectacular sunset over the Mozambique Channel.

DAY 8 : Nosy Be > Antananarivo > INTERNATIONAL returN FLIGHT (oR CARRY ON YOUR CUSTOMIZED programme)

EASTERN TOUR 7 days / 6 nights DAY 1 : arrivAL AT Ivato AIRPORT Antananarivo DAY 2 : Antananarivo > Andasibe - Departure by road to Andasibe, 138 km from the capital on the RN2 or “Tamatave Road”. - Stop at Madagascar Exotic, a farm producing butterflies, chameleons, and endemic reptiles. - Thirty kilometres before Andasibe, Moramanga is a meeting-point of the Centre-East region which has marked the history of the Great Island. It has gained a new lease of life with the nearby Ambatovy cobalt and nickel mining project. An interesting visit to be made to the Gendarmerie (police force) Museum.

DAY 3 : Andasibe > Akanin’ny Nofy - Guided visit in the Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, made up of two Protected Areas: the Mantadia Park and the Analamazaotra Special Indri Reserve. Guide centre, well-marked trails, camping areas. - Carry on by road (approx. 2 1/2 hours) to the village of Manambato, on the shores of Lake Rasoabe, then sailing on the Pangalanes Canal to Akanin’ny Nofy, literally the “dream nest” on the bank of another lake, Ampitabe.

DAY 4 : Akanin’ny Nofy > PANGALANES Canal > Tamatave - At Akanin’ny Nofy, in addition to water sports and forest walks, visit the Le Palmarium Private Reserve. - Boat trip (3 hours) northward to the river port of Tamatave. One of the most beautiful stretches of the Pangalanes Canal with its series of lakes, shrimpfishermen’s harrows, villages hidden in lush vegetation. - Tamatave, Madagascar’s main port and a domestic tourist centre. At the end of the year, shipments of lychees leave here for gourmet dinner tables in Europe.

DAY 5/6 : Tamatave > Sainte Marie - Flight to the island of Sainte Marie (45mn). Free stay in a place unspoilt by mass tourism and very “natural” as shown by its capital Ambodifotatra. - A whole range of land and sea-based activities: hiking or mountain-biking, excursions to the island’s picturesque sites including Mat Island (Ile aux

Nattes) and places with vestiges from the days of piracy, scuba-diving in world-famous spots … - During the season (June-September), very wellorganized whale-watching safaris.

DAY 7 : Sainte Marie > Antananarivo > international RETURN FLIGHT (oR CARRY ON YOUR CUSTOMIZED programme)

WESTERN TOUR 8 days / 7 nights DAY 1 : ArrivAL AT Ivato AIRPORT Antananarivo DAY 2 : Antananarivo > Morondava - Flight (45min) to Morondava, a tourist boomtown on the west coast. - Canoe trip (15min) to the village of Betania for a friendly meeting with the fishermen. May carry on to Lovobe, at the mouth of the Kabatomena River, and its white sandy beach.

DAY 3 : Morondava > Belo sur Tsiribihina > Bekopaka - Day-long transfer (8 hours) by 4X4 to the village of Bekopaka via Belo sur Tsiribihina and after crossing the river made famous by the Fitampoha ceremonies. A country of thorny bush and arid grassland where the baobab is king. Crossing the Manambolo River brings to an end this journey in a majestic setting.

DAYS 4/5 : Bekopaka AND THE bemaraha tsingy - Visit the Bemaraha Tsingy, surely Madagascar’s most spectacular site. An extraordinary place, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1990! - 1st day, discover the Manambolo Gorges by canoe, then hiking tours of Ankeligoa and Andadoany in the maze of canyons to discover how the Tsingy were made. - 2nd day, transfer by 4x4 to 17 km north of the village of Bekopaka to reach the gigantic limestone cathedrals, dense fault networks, deep crevasses, blocks of sharp limestone blades or needles which make up the Tsingy. On their “roof”, a magnificent all-round view of the rock formation.

DAYS 6/7 : Bekopaka > Kirindy > MORONDAVA - Return to Kirindy to visit this National Park and its dense, dry forest. - Opportunity of a night tour. - Carry on to Morondava with an inevitable stop at Baobab Avenue, Madagascar’s leading Natural Monument. Superb sunset to photograph.

DAY 8 : Morondava > Antananarivo > INTERNATIONAL returN FLIGHT (oR CARRY ON YOUR CUSTOMIZED programme)

SAVA TOUR 8 days / 7 nights DAY 1 : ArrivAL AT Ivato AIRPORT Antananarivo DAY 2 : Antananarivo > Sambava - Flight (1 1/4 hours) to Sambava, one of 4 major areas in the SAVA. - One day dedicated to visiting a vanilla processing plant and the Soavoanio coconut plantation.

DAYS 3/4/5 : Manantenina > Parc national de Marojejy - Departure for Manantenina, on the Andapa road. - Begin visiting the Marojejy National Park, one of the most majestic mountains in Madagascar peaking at 2,132 m. - Camping at Mantella Camp (at an altitude of 450 m), equipped with kitchen, bedroom and bathroom. - Carry on climbing to Simpona Camp (775 m). Very visible transition from lowland forest to high altitude vegetation. Camping at Simpona Camp, with the same amenities. - Up and up! Cross the high mountain rainforest. At the summit, panoramic views of the whole area, as far as the Indian Ocean in good weather. Camping at Marojejy Camp, equipped with kitchen and bathroom.

DAY 6 : Marojejy > Manantenina > Sambava - Back down to Manantenina and carry on by road to Sambava. - Part of the trip can be done by canoe on the Bemarivo River.

DAY 7 : Sambava > Antalaha > Sambava - A not-to-be-forgotten trip to Antalaha, the world vanilla capital, 90 km south of Sambava. Opportunity for a traditional canoe trip on the Ankavia and Ankavanana Rivers.

DAY 8 : Sambava > Antananarivo> international returN FLIGHT (oR cARRY ON YOUR CUSTOMIZED programme)

SOUTH-EAST TOUR 5 days / 4 nights DAY 1 : ArrivAL AT Ivato AIRPORT Antananarivo DAY 2 : Antananarivo > Fort-Dauphin - Transfer for the flight to Fort-Dauphin, a changing city where wealth from tourism lives side by side with that from titanium mining. Fort-Dauphin also has a new port, Ehoala, which receives international cruise-ships. - Wide range of tours to choose from: Nahampoana Private Reserve, Saïadi Botanical Garden, Fort Flacourt Museum, or just laze on a beach like Libanona.

DAY 3 : Lokaro BAY - A day trip to Lokaro Bay. Transfer by road and boat through the narrow channels connecting several small lakes dotted round the bay of Fort-Dauphin (Lanirano Lake, Besaroy Lake, Ambavarano Lake, Anony River…) One of very few spots at the end of the world.

DAY 4 : Saint Louis PEAK AND Vinanibe LAKE - Climbing Saint Louis peak (529 m) to enjoy the true beauty of FortDauphin and its Riviera. - Final canoe ride on Vinanibe lake.

DAY 5 : Fort-Dauphin > Antananarivo > international returN FLIGHT (oR CARRY ON YOUR CUSTOMIZED PROGRAMME)

WILDLIFE This is characterized by very high levels of endemic species and no big cats. Apart from lizards and some varieties of scorpions and centipedes, there are virtually no species dangerous to man.

Invertebrates Scientists have recorded some 100,000 species of invertebrates including many stick insects, praying mantises, moths, centipedes, dragonflies and beetles. Of the 3,000 species of butterflies, more than 2,900 are endemic. This includes the largest butterfly in the world, Argema Mittrei with a 30 cm wingspan, the brilliantly-coloured Chrisiridia Madagascariensis, or the swallowtail butterfly Papilo Delalandei. The island’s most beautiful beetle of the island is definitely the red and white giraffe beetle, so named because of its long neck. Of the 400 species of spiders, the only really dangerous one is the aptly-named Black Widow.

Reptiles and amphibians Chameleons could symbolize Madagascar just as well as lemurs. Two thirds of the world’s species live on the Great Island, from the smallest (Chamaeleo Nasatus 10 cm) to the largest (Chamaeleo oustaleti 70 cm). A protected species, the Nile crocodile is concentrated in certain areas with large rivers. Feared or revered, these lizards sometimes have a special place in popular beliefs which equate them with the ancestors.

Tortoises, including the radiated tortoise and the ploughshare tortoise, are endangered species subject to trafficking. Several species of sea turtles are found among the coral reefs, laying their eggs on deserted beaches. Frogs are among the most colourful creatures on the island, dancing multi-coloured ballets on wetland vegetation. More than 150 species have been recorded, and others are still being identified.

Fish 92% of freshwater fish species are endemic. Coral reefs are home to a multitude of fish of all shapes and colours, as well as remarkable species such as manta rays. At certain times the largest fish in the world, the whale shark, may be found in the waters of Nosy Be, and, if luck is on your side, the oldest one, which is the coelacanth.

The gems of the island’s wildlife, lemurs, have large eyes for easy night vision and thick, sometimes woolly, coats. The smallest lemurs are no bigger than your thumb while the Indri is the size of a small boy. The ring-tailed lemur

The puma-like fosa is the largest carnivore in Madagascar. 5 species of mongoose are endemic, including the Amber Mountain ringtailed one. The Tenrecs, resembling hedgehogs, are very prolific with litters of up to 32 young. As for bats, they have diversified into 28 species.

Mammals

is familiar to tourists thanks to its upright posture and friendly nature. For its part, the aye aye, saved from extinction in the sixties, remains a mystery to science. The discovery of new species is far from being over. For instance, among many others, the 80 gr Allocebus Trichotis which was believed to be extinct (1997), the Lepilemur Mitsinjonesis discovered as the name suggests near Mitsinjo (2004), the 300 gr Mirza Zaza, and the Lehilahy Tsara, a literal translation of Steve Goodman, a scientist from Chicago’s Field Museum (2005).

Birdwatching

• Ankarafantsika, east of Majunga on the RN4, is home to 2/3 of all the island’s known species. White-breasted mesites and Van Dam’s vangas attract birdwatchers from all over the world. • The islands in the Betsiboka delta 20 km from Majunga are spots for watching over 60 species of water fowl including the white ibis. • In the same area, the second biggest lake in Madagascar, Lake Kinkony and its complex is a prime bird-watching spot for Olivier’s crake (aso known as the Sakalava rail), plovers, white ibis, or the fish eagle. It is also a refuge for thousands of migrating birds ranging from wild duck and pink flamingoes to herons.

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• The Tsinjoriake Protected Area near Tulear is famous for its birdlife including 7 of the 10 species endemic to the south. • Tsimanampesotse, at 40 km south of Anakao, also has very interesting birdlife: couas, green pigeons, hawks, not forgetting the spectacular colonies of pink flamingoes. • The island of Nosy Ve off the Anakao beach is a sanctuary for many bird colonies well protected by the sacred nature of the place for some of the Vezo people. • On the outskirts of Antananarivo, Tsarasaotra Park, the world’s first private Ramsar site, sees thousands of birds from over 60 species passing through each year. • The Anjozorobe forest corridor, a 2-hour drive from the capital, is one of the last vestiges of the highland primitive forests. It has exceptional biodiversity with 74 bird species, making it a great meeting-place for birdwatchers. • 140 km from Antananarivo on the RN2, the Andasibe National Park is home to 16 bird orders with over 120 species.

Some of the best spots for birdlovers:

Madagascar has a relatively small number of bird species (285). But 110 of them are endemic and this tally is rare elsewhere in the world.

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Indeed, all Madagascar’s National Parks have large birdlife components, but some have more bird-watching facilities than others.

WHALEWATCHING

From July to September, humpback whales come to calve and mate in Malagasy waters after swimming over 5000 km from the Antarctic. Whale-watching is governed by strict behaviour standards, so as not to put the whales under stress and ensure tourists’ safety.

• Further north, Antongil Bay is also a whale sanctuary. The dancing display of these ocean giants leaping out of the water may be admired from a boat, or on dry land from the top of Nosy Mangabe. • Nosy Be is not lagging behind either, with an “extra” consisting of combining whale-watching with trips between the islands. Note that other cetaceans such as dolphins and rorquals can

be seen there all year round, October and November being the months for spotting the harmless whale-shark. • We could also mention other favoured spots such as Courier Bay near Diego-Suarez, or even Anakao where pods have taken to frolicking around Nosy Ve: one must admit, these guests coming in from the cold have good taste!

• The most popular spot is the island of Sainte Marie and in particular the Channel, where the newborn baby whales can thrive at ease beside their mothers. Not to be separated under any circumstances! Marine safaris are often extended into the evening with very informative talks. As for the Whale Festival, which carries on from previous events, it is now sponsored by a world-famous TV show personality.

In the plant kingdom Madagascar has experienced explosive species diversification due to the wide variety of ecological zones and partitioned areas.

The Centre They are less well-endowed, but rocky slabs and granite domes can have beautiful plants with graceful flowers such as in Angavokely, east of Antananarivo. The ledges to the west and south are particularly rich in xeric flora adapted to difficult conditions by a water accumulation system. The stone-plant for example, is very common in the Itremo mountains west of Ambositra or Ibity in the Antsirabe region, with its flowers springing out of the ground.

PLANTS

The West

The South

This is the realm of savanna and baobabs, of which Madagascar has 7 species as opposed to two for Australia and one for the whole of Africa. The plants here have rather unusual features: Euphorbia stone pine, vines whose stems appear only in the rainy season, pachypodium shaped like a longnecked bottle, and a beautiful fern out of place in these frequently drought-stricken places: the Platycerium Quadridichitimum.

The Bush is an exceptional natural environment due to low-growing vegetation and thorny scrublands adapted to less than 500 mm of annual rainfall. The Didieraceae do not go unnoticed there, from the wild branches of the Alluaudia Humberti to the tentacles of the Octopus Tree. The Kalanchoe can apply for the Originality Prize with the three-cornered leaves of the Beharensis. In the Aloe family (38 species), the Vaombe Aloe is perhaps the most beautiful plant in Madagascar. Growing over 6 meters tall, it can carry up to one hundred clusters of bright red flowers.

The East The eastern forest supplies man with food, medicines, clothing, building materials, tools, ornaments... 90% of its species are thought to be endemic. It is the favourite environment of valuable tree species that often arouse much envy, and orchids in various sizes and colours such as Aeranthes whose flowers grow to 60 cm, or Cymbidiella Rhodichila with clusters of yellow flowers stained with green spots. But the tree best symbolizing the east of the island is the Traveller’s Tree or Ravinala with its fan-shaped leaves and store of reputedly cool water. Take that with a pinch of salt!

Mangroves These are strange environments of amphibious forests whose most famous tree, the Mangrove is perched on stilt roots. Its cousin, the Red Mangrove, has roots sticking out of the water like snorkels. One of Mother Nature’s jokes!! Some locations: Ambondrolava 12 km north of Tulear, Antsahampano and Ambohidravy Forest Reserve in the Ambanja region, the east coast of Ste Marie, and the north and east coasts of Nosy Be.

laKEs Too often overshadowed by the sea, Madagascar’s inland lakes deserve more attention. • 120 km from the capital on the RN1, Lake Itasy is spread out against a turbulent backdrop of lava and basalt fields. It is surrounded by a constellation of forty other small plain and crater lakes. • At Antsirabe (169 km from Antananarivo on the RN7), Tritriva is Madagascar’s most famous crater lake with its sheer walls

RAMSAR SITES The wetlands registered on the international Ramsar list provide communities with livelihoods; they contain medicinal plants, drinking water, timber used

and dark waters that fall during the rainy season and rise up again in the dry season. • 70 km away on the RN2 with a turn-off at Ambatolaona, the shores of Lake Mantasoa bear the remains of the first industry created around 1837 by Jean Laborde. • On the mainland part of Tamatave province, the island’s largest body of water was called “Alaotra” by Malay migrants. It houses rare endemic wildlife such as the Bandro Hapalemur or bamboo lemu, or the Onjy, an endangered wild duck. • In the South, Tsimanampesotse is inseparable from the image of

its colonies of pink flamingos, and the presence of blind Typhleotis fish in its waters, their mystery intriguing Jacques Cousteau. 60 km southeast of Tulear, the Ifanaro Plateau has a line of terraced lakes overlooking the Onilahy River. • Last but not least, three to complete this list: to the east, Lake Rasoabe at Manambato which is usually the tourist’s first contact with the Panganales Canal. To the north, Lake Anosiravo on the road Ambilobe and its ritual sacrifices to crocodiles, and Nosy Be’s Sacred Lakes of that can be admired from Mount Passot.

for energy and crafts. They are also centres of biodiversity, bird breeding sites and a permanent reservoir of fish resources.

• the Torotorofotsy Marsh and its watersheds, Tamatave (9,993 ha) • the Nosivolo River and its tributaries, Tamatave (358,511 ha) • Lake Alaotra and its watersheds, Tamatave (722,500 ha) • Lake Tsimanampesotse, Tulear (45,604 ha) • the Bedo wetlands, Tulear (1,962 ha) • the Tsarasaotra Private Park, Antananarivo (27 ha).

Madagascar has 9 sites on this list: • the lake complex at Manambolomaty, Majunga (7,491 ha) • Lake Kinkony, Majunga (13,800 ha) • the Mandrozo wetland, Majunga (15,145 ha)

GEOLOGICAL WONDERS Isalo

One of Madagascar’s leading natural wonders, Isalo at 707 km on the RN7 is made of sandstone dating from the Jurassic period. Its southern and eastern parts have strata with uneven resistance to erosion, hence their ruinshaped terrain made of blocks in apparently unstable equilibrium, and the famous sculpted figures, recalling a boot, a watching lion, a window, and especially the iconic Queen of Isalo. The west and north have lines of narrow gorges notched into the rock barriers.

The Tsingy The Tsingy are among Madagascar’s most spectacular sights with their needle-sharp crests. • The most famous are those of Bemaraha, 180 km northwest of Morondava, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1990. • The Ankarana Tsingy, 150 km south of Diego Suarez, have also emerged as a result of major tectonic movements and thanks to inevitable erosion, have become a tourist gem in the north. • A 2-hour drive from the city, the Red Tsingy are a must stop for tourists, both for their shapes and colours and for the energetic actions of their management committee in terms of quality craftsmanship. • Not forgetting the Namoroka Tsingy 50 km south of Soalala in the Majunga region, accessible along a track fit for sportsmen.

Makay There is everything to learn about the Makay region, still unknown up to a few years ago. This is a ruin-type rock formation north of Isalo, 150 km by 50 km, where canyons, domes, forests and rocks are entangled in a dense network of rivers dotted with many lakes. All these formations are marked by erosion that took place over millions of years, forming yellow sandstone that is unique in the world. Access is not easy, from Ranohira to a tiny village called Beronono, where cars have to stop, after crossing the Mangoky River at Beroroha. But on arrival, the beauty of the Makay is its own reward.

Caving and underground tours provide the strange feeling of entering another dimension. The Anjohibe Caves (access from Majunga by 18 km of paved road and 75 km of track) have an impressive network of miles of interconnecting rooms. The Andranomilitsy Caves, 10 km from Ihosy in Ihorombe, slope quite steeply for a hundred yards and open into a large hall adorned with concretions. Also in the south, experienced cavers can dive underground in Tsimanampesotse. In the programme, caves, underground galleries, animal bones and blind fish. Last but not least, Ankarana, 150 km south of Diego Suarez, has a variety of caves, some of which contain royal tombs. In these depths winds the longest underground water system in Africa (110 km).

ZOOS AND BOTANICAL GARDENS

the inevitable lemurs, and amphibians in the vivarium before enjoying - guess what and why not? - a good crocodile steak. • Ivoloina, 11 km north of Tamatave, was initially an experimental garden before being turned into a park in the 80s. Lemurs dominated by the daytime Lemuridae family, radiated tortoises and impressive but harmless snakes, birds and amphibians, not forgetting the 4.5 km forest track and canoe rides on the lake. • 12 km from Tulear, the Antsokay Arboretum has a collection of more than 1,000 plant species including about 700 from the south of Madagascar. Here we are in the driest area of the country. Discovery is made via well-marked paths, supported by information panels. • Endemika, 10 min away from the airport of Ste Marie, is a summary of the biodiversity of this small island. Palms, orchids and pandanus, lemurs, reptiles and birds, the guided tour may take from 45 minutes to 2 hours, depending on time available. • Le Palmarium at Akanin’ny Nofy south of Tamatave is a Private Reserve on the banks of the Panganales Canal. A botanical garden with thousands of palm trees including rare varieties. For wildlife, there are mainly reptiles and a dozen varieties of lemurs in the wild.

• In Antananarivo, the collections at Tsimbazaza Park can be a good start before meeting the ‘real’ plants and wildlife in the island. In the southern part there is a Paleontology and Ethnology Museum belonging to the Malagasy Academy. • 22 km from the capital on the RN1, Lemurs’ Park has the distinction of hosting, among other residents, lemurs seized from traffickers and illegal owners. A walk in this peaceful setting enables even closer observation of 9 species of these iconic animals. On the botanical side, the Park has over 170 species of plants, many of which are endemic to Madagascar. Open every day except Monday. • 5 minutes from Ivato airport, Croc Farm is a crocodile breeding centre. You can study them at arm’s length, thank goodness for the gates! You can also linger in front of ostriches, “fosa” Madagascar’s unique feline,

Caves

3. Between land Madagascar’S ISLANDS | coral REEFS DEEP-SEA FISHING | SCUBA-DIVING | SEA CRUISES

and sea

MADAGASCAR’S ISLANDS A bit like Russian dolls, Madagascar is a large island surrounded by small islands, which in turn form archipelagos with even smaller islands at the end of the world. • Let’s talk about Nosy Be, voted the most beautiful island in Africa by TripAdvisor, and its satellite islands through an activity that adds to its image: sailing. It all starts at Crater port, converted into a real marina since 2008, with a 20 m pontoon, various services, and an old railway carriage turned into a restaurant. More than a hundred mono and multi-hulls moor at Nosy Be, including twenty engaged in business activities. The islets are many potential stopovers with poetic names and all have their prevailing images: Nosy Komba (wild lemurs and embroiderers), Nosy Tanikely (exceptional marine wildlife, butterflies, bats, straw tail), Nosy Iranja (600 m cone, a nesting ground for sea turtles), Nosy Sakatia (sport fishing, coral reefs interspersed with submarine passes and canyons), the Mitsio archipelago in the northeast consisting of a main island, Grand Mitsio, and a myriad of small paradises including Ankarea, or Tsarabanjina. The overview would be incomplete if one forgot the Radamas, mystery

• Nosy Mangabe, 5 km south of Maroantsetra, is the largest island in the Antongil Bay. This is where, according to its slogan, “the forest meets the sea” as it literally grows close to the water. An ideal place for hiking and observing land and marine wildlife. • Nosy Ve, facing Anakao in the southwest, was a former hideout for pirates and slave traders. Today it is the source of happiness for scuba divers and snorkeling enthusiasts, and is also the nesting place for birds of several species including the red phaeton and straw tail. • Plum Island (Ile aux Prunes) with its familiar outlines and yet hardly known at all, is a small oval island off Tamatave. Crisscrossed by trails shaded by palms and tropical almond trees, it is surrounded by a coral reef and is home to an endemic species of bats. • And many others, such as those islands southwest of Majunga containing 16th century relics of the Arabs, attracting many sea lovers.

islands separated from Nosy Be by the Ampasindava peninsula. More poetic names with Kalakajoro (the most beautiful beach of the Radamas), Nosy Ofy and its white sands, or the aptly-named Valiha Isle. We’ve had our fill of picture-postcards, back to the marina... • Sainte Marie doesn’t look like one, but it is also an archipelago. A long “mainland” first, where no point is more than 3 km from the sea. Ambodifotatra the capital, also called Sainte Marie Ville, is a kind of museum-capital that cultivates its history peacefully in the shade of mango trees and coconut palms. Followed by: Mat Island (Ile aux Nattes) in the south, separated from the mainland by a 400 m stretch of sea. There are no cars or quads around here, not even a bike! Lady Isle (Ilot Madame), which played a central role in the island’s history because boats have been mooring there since the days of the East India Company. Pirate Isle (Ile aux Forbans), a former pirate lair in the middle of Ambodifotatra Bay. Whale Island, (Ile des Baleines) inseparable from the legend of Boraha, the ancestor of St. Marians. The three Sand Islands (Ilôts aux sables) which act as a barrier to the ocean waves. • Nosy Lava, 30 minutes by boat from Analalava in the northwest, used to house a prison, the mere mention of which still inspires fear. A handful of former detainees who have nowhere to go, have remained on the scene with their memories. Lush vegetation, a fishing village, and crystal clear waters.

DEEP-SEA FISHING The major centres are located primarily in the west and northwest. At Antsanitia, near Majunga, many types of fishing take place, from casting to live-bait fishing through trolling and jigging. You can also go deep-sea fishing (tuna, swordfish, marlin, kingfish, wahoo...). From Narinda Bay to Cape Sebastian through the Radama and Mitsio Islands, the waters are rich in fish, and fishing trips are made in the company of professionals on very well equipped boats. These excellent conditions continue further north in the Bay of Diego itself, where inshore trolling, popper, or hand-lines are also used. On the east Coast at Ste. Marie, fishing is always exciting with a range of options such as black marlin, yellowfin tuna, trevally, angoho, or barracuda. Finally, remember that the “No Kill” practice, returning the caught fish to the water, is expanding. This behaviour is to be welcomed.

SCUBA-DIVING

The southwest coast and coral reef offer a fabulous underwater world. North of Tulear, Salary and Ifaty are among the best holiday resorts on the island, and have well-equipped diving centres with monitors and equipment. Further north, the islets off Andavadoaka or Belo on Sea are spots at the end of the world enjoyed by connoisseurs. South of Tulear, the waters of Anakao and the island of Nosy Ve facing it are a real aquarium teeming with colourful fish with exotic names. Beyond the reef, the most experienced divers will be tempted by meeting white tip sharks that are rarely aggressive to man. The northwest coast is also a reputable centre from the Radama Islands to Cape Sebastian through Nosy Be and its satellite islands including the incomparable Mitsio Islands. A few spots: Kalakajoro, Greg Wall, Black Wall, Nosy Valiha or the Kivinjy Sugarloaf in the Radama Islands. The Great Pipe Organs, Ankarea Point, Castor Shoal, Four Brothers, the Unicorn Bank in the Mitsios. On the eastern coast, Sainte Marie and its islands can also claim the title of diver’s paradise. Include among many other spots those of Mat Isle (Ile aux Nattes), the Sand islands (Iles aux Sables), and reefs fringing the west on the Vatobe Coast, or the Coconut Grove (Cocoteraie) and its wreck. In some of these sites you can dive at night.

SEA CRUISES

Cruise-ships usually plan their voyages between December and April. Costa Cruises began to include Madagascar in its Indian Ocean stopovers in 2007 with the ports of Nosy Be, Diego Suarez, and Tamatave. The American line Prestige Cruises followed suit in 2010. Fort-Dauphin in the far southeast confirms its presence in the tour with its new port Ehoala opened in 2009. The port hosted 16,500 cruise passengers from 2010 to 2013 and 2014 began auspiciously with the almost simultaneous January arrival of those two giants, Msc Sinfonia and Msc Opera, from the Msc Cruise Company. Cruises? Manna from the sea …!

WALKING TOURS

trekking with routes dotted with lodgings in traditional houses. They lead to meeting Highland farmers, blacksmiths, or gem prospectors in a setting that alternates between plains and uplands.

Nothing healthier than getting back to using your legs! A big thank you to the Analamanga Regional Tourism Office (Antananarivo) which has had the idea of planning regular dry season walks to explore highlights of Imerina history.

Along with its redevelopment efforts and promotion of sites (Andriamamovoka Falls, Death Falls, Lake Antsikira...) the Alaotra Mangoro region a hundred kilometres east of the capital had the idea of a Hiking club as a driver for tourism.

Antsirabe and Vakin’Ankaratra region are pioneers in village

the

French Mountain, Windsor Castle, around the Bay, Amber Mountain slopes... Given the profusion of centres of interest in the narrowest part of Madagascar, Diego Suarez is not far behind with a range of trips from half-day to multi-day treks.

People also love running on the Perfume Island including the Nosy Be Trail (1st edition in 2014), and the Maki Run mountain race. Finally a special mention for the Ultra Trail O Plateaux (UTOP) connecting Antananarivo and Mantasoa with a night departure and a green-field route which never takes to the main road. More and more overseas contestants take part every year.

Treks and hikes coupled with responsible tourism are also topical in Fianarantsoa, the Betsileo capital, to sites like Halazana (5 km), the Mitongoa caves (15 km), or Mount Vatosola (3 km).

As for Treks, the Isalo one is traditionally held in July in three categories: mini (22 km), half (40 km), and the Grand Trek (80 km)..

CLIMBING Madagascar has the highest quality places for climbing. Around Diego Suarez and 10 minutes from the city centre, the French Mountain offers a 60-150 m limestone bar where 180 different paths have been traced. The Nosy Hara Archipelago, a half-day away from the northern capital, is a major site for the triplet “climbing-diving-lazing”, where the operator has provided guests with cave rooms (meaning, cut into the rock!). His Majesty Tsaranoro, bordering the Andringitra Park, pulls in pros from around the world to the point that a large Japanese carmaker has included its impressive granite walls in one of its advertising campaigns.

SlacklinING Walking on webbing like tightrope walker, that is the promise of slackline. The ideal place for an introduction to slackline is Diego Suarez. Above the turquoise water of Mozambique canal, on the beach, in the middle of the mountains, slacklining fanatics will discover in this region an amazing playground to devote to the practice of this sport.

Tree Top Adventure Moving from tree to tree at just few meters above the ground: what an experience!! With its many endemic trees, Madagascar lends itself to be one of the most interesting places to practice this new activity. From rope bridges to forest surf, the region of Diego Suarez is overflowing with amazing spots.

HANG-GLIDING

Malagasy spaces are not yet encumbered by flight restrictions and power lines. Three regions with good thermals are ideal for the passion of Icarus-types: Antananarivo and its hills, Itasy and its extinct volcanoes, and of course Andringitra, the only one offering an environment with real mountain canyons, waterfalls and steep cliffs.

BASE JUMPING This spectacular sport is not really a popular one, it is more for lovers of cold sweat and adrenaline. The Tsaranoro offers super jumps that often attract international expeditions.

Some runs can be performed on your own, but it is better to go through operators providing qualified guides, coxes and river equipment. Some interesting routes: the Mangoky which flows into the Mozambique Channel north of Morombe. The Faraony between Fianarantsoa and Manakara, possible in a combined rail-canoe trip (take the Fianarantsoa-Manakara ‘Bone shaker’ and get off at Manampatrana).. In the Eastern forest, the Maningory, a very sporty river with impressive foaming channels. Satisfaction guaranteed. The Lily in Itasy, whose descent in the rainy season is in two parts. The wellbehaved Katsaoka, in the country close to Antananarivo.

KAYAKING AND WHITE-WATER RAFTING

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WINDSURFING, KITE-BOARDING, SEA KAYAKING In Nosy Be, several hotels are equipped for water sports. The kite-boarding season is usually from July to December. Windsurfing is year-round. As for sea kayaking, some providers offer routes such as the one from the west coast to Sakatia Island. For the record, the South African Riian Manser took eleven months (August 2008-July 2009) to complete a lap of Madagascar by kayak. 5,000 km on his own, by strength of wrist and mind, hard to beat... © Malagasy Tours

Diego Suarez, where the Mozambique Channel and the Indian Ocean meet, offers enthusiasts their Promised Sea. Jet-ski treks, sailing and sea kayaking, windsurfing and kite-boarding, but with the help of the Varatraza blowing eight months a year. Sakalava Bay is a world-famous spot where qualified instructors provide courses with full equipment (helmets, lifejackets, harnesses). At the south east tip of the island, Fort-Dauphin, where the Tioka Atimo blows, is also perfect for water sports.

BIKING AND QUADS Madagascar is a country where discovery enthusiasts like to go off the beaten track. In the south, quad treks may take several days crisscrossing the bush along lagoons and mangroves, up dry river beds, or crossing others on machines with floats. Around the capital, countless dirt roads in a hilly landscape are all invitations. In Sainte Marie different tours lead to discovering wildlife and plants, not to mention the huge empty beaches. At the north end, the choice of routes goes from the many bays to the Emerald Sea via Cape Diego.

PaddlING While staying at Madagascar, take your time to discover the new popular water sport: paddle. The North West, especially Diego Suarez, has very popular and safe paddle spots. With little practice, you will be able to discover and enjoy the turquoise water.

Heritage and culture CITIES OF YESTERYEAR | GrEAT TRADITIONAL FESTIVALS A CULTURAL EXCEPTION, THE MIKEA TRADITIONAL GAMES AND SPORTS FAITH AND BELIEFS | MUSIC Festivals | CRAFTS

CITIES OF YESTERYEAR • Ambanoro or Marodoka, 5 km from Hellville, was the second capital of Nosy Be after Tafondro and before the current capital. Created by the Arabs, it became a small thriving community trading in gold, slaves, spices, and tortoise shells. Indians settled there around 1839, favouring trade with Bombay and Zanzibar. Marodoka is now overgrown with vegetation. The site is the subject of a tourist-cultural tour run by the Ravinala Association. • The “Friends of Old Tamatave”, members of the A.TOA, can interpret their city’s past, which is not within the reach of all: squares to be re-greened, such as Place Bien Aimé with its banyan trees planted according to Madagascar’s astrological signs. Creole houses different from those of Reunion as they are built on stilts as protection from damp. Large commercial buildings, some dating back to the late 19th century... A whole identity rediscovered. • The Old Town of Fianarantsoa, also known as Tanàna Ambony or The Upper Town is an exceptional collection of urban architecture whose elements have been preserved or restored in strict accordance with the originals. You can stroll through the maze of narrow lanes and its jumble of houses with brick columns and tile roofs. It is a place of retro charm where traffic is prohibited, and has been a Protected Area of Historical and Architectural Interest since 1999. • Another Old Town, Antananarivo, was born on top of a rocky cliff that made it virtually impregnable. We discover cobbled streets, stone churches including two of four Memorial Churches built in memory of the martyrs of the Great Persecution led by Queen Ranavalona I, old houses with columns, gazebos, and especially the Queen’s Palace, now open again to the public after restoration of its stone exterior. For the record, the new Trélazé slate roof is exactly the same as that of the Château de Versailles.

• In the southeast, after several attempts, settlers founded a stronghold in 1643 and named it Fort-Dauphin. Cohabitation with local tribes was a total failure. In 1674, the survivors sailed to Ile Bourbon - the former name of Reunion - to form the first colony with some Malagasy women. Among them, Louise Tserana, who was the first wife of Antoine Payet, known as Laroche, before marrying Etienne Grondin. She was, if you like, the grandmother of the “poor whites” who put down roots in Cilaos, Mafate or Salazie, typical Malagasy names. • In 1697, a captain in the East India Company reported that, at Sainte Marie, pirates had built a base of 1,500 inhabitants defended by 50 cannons. It included inns, gaming rooms, slave markets, and brothels. Among the famous guests in this place were Henry Every and Thomas Tew who managed to capture the Great Mogul’s convoy, William Kidd, who scuttled his frigate at Sainte Marie before returning to New York, and above all, Levasseur, known as the Buzzard, who was hanged in 1730 and whose treasure is still being hunted by many romantics. • Finally, it’s impossible to forget the “Republic of Libertalia”, mentioned by Daniel Defoe in his book General History of the Most Famous Pirates published in 1726, founded in the Bay of Diego Suarez by Misson, a Provençal gentleman, and Caraccioli, a Dominican priest. The city was said to have a government elected for three years, a parliament and even its own language, before being completely destroyed by the neighbouring tribes. The reality of Libertalia began to be questioned from 1980 by critics and historians for whom it might have existed only in the writer’s mind. Be that as it may, myths never die...

GREAT TRADITIONAL FESTIVALS • The Fitampoha is a great classic among the Sakalava of Menabe during which the royal relics are brought from Belo-sur-Tsiribihina to Ampasy, carried by men in loincloths and red headbands. They are then lined up under a white tent while a good week of festivities gets under way. While bathing the relics, it is forbidden to wear shoes or cross the river. • The Sakalava of Boina have an identical ceremony called the Fanompoambe. The royal relics (a few teeth and vertebrae) are considered to be intercessors between Zanahary (God) and men, and are honoured as such. They are bathed in the blood of carefully selected bulls, and returned to their place in the sanctuary after being paraded around it 7 times. • The Tsanga-Tsainy is a ritual ceremony that the Antakarana -in the extreme north of the country- celebrate every five years. It is a renewal of the flagpole which will carry the colours of the Antakarana people for the next five years. Preceded by a pilgrimage to the holy places, installing the flagpole takes place during a huge rally and celebration under the aegis of the traditional king in his imperial robes, carried on a palanquin. • The Sambatra, held every 7 years, is the great identity festival of the Antambahoaka in the southeast. This is a collective circumcision held on a date fixed by astrologers, when all boys born during the previous seven years are officially admitted to Antambahoaka society. It takes place in Mananjary and lasts eight days.

A CULTURAL EXCEPTION, THE MIKEA Their spiny forest stretches for over 70 km in length and 30 km wide between Tulear and Morombe. The main feature in this shade-free world is the lack of water, only a few rainwater deposits in the hollows of hazomanitse trees after scarce showers. So how do they survive? The Mikea have the secret, for nothing in the world would make them leave this environment from which they almost never come out.

Their staple the food is baboho, a yam with tubers which grow in sand to the depth of a man’s arm. A slightly milky colour, it looks like watermelon and eating it is both food and drink! Then there are wild foods including honey. Nothing boiled or soups, due to lack of water, just grilled hedgehog for extras. The Mikea are among those that the world-famous ethnographic film director Jean-Pierre Dutilleux calls First Peoples. In this particular classification they rub shoulders with the Amazonian Txucarramae tribe, the Asmat of New Guinea, the Mursi of Ethiopia, and especially the Kayapo led by the famous Chief Raoni whom Dutilleux and Sting brought to Europe for a public awareness campaign on deforestation. “The Mikea are gentle and peaceful people who have never been enslaved”, say their Vezo and Masikoro neighbours. Still, their forest is now seriously encroached on by charcoal burners and farmers. Will they one day be talked of in the past tense?

TRADITIONAL GAMES AND SPORTS • The Fanorona is a brain game likened to an introduction to battle strategy. Each player has 22 pieces that move in order to “swallow” the opponent’s. Unlike chess, a game that requires absolute silence, spectators can chip in, leaving it up to the players to consider their suggestions. It is said that the crown prince lost his right to the throne because, instead of answering the king’s call, he preferred to finish his Fanorona game… • Traditional sports are sometimes violent. This is the case of Moraingy, a mixture of wrestling and barefist boxing. The wrestler has no scheduled opponent, he throws out a challenge, parading before the audience with his fist raised. For its part, the Betsileo Savika is bullfighting without killing the bull, but with some risk to the wrestler who has only his bare hands and cunning. He has to cling to the horns or the hump of the brute force opposed to him, and wear it down by hanging on there as long as possible. Ambositra is the mecca of this spectacular struggle inseparable from major Betsileo holidays. • Cockfights are almost an institution, and have a championship in Madagascar. The rooster’s intensive preparation can last 10 months before the premiere. The arena is an enclosed space which only admits the referee, both fighting cocks and their respective coaches, called “jockeys.” They advise their fighters in low voices, sprinkle them with water to cool off, place themselves so as to protect the birds from the sun with their shadow. Quite an art...

FAITH AND BELIEFS • The concept of “ancestors”, who are powers ready to intervene in humans’ lives, is still very present in the Malagasy way of thinking. Therefore traditionalist families (which should not be equated with the whole of Malagasy society) carry out the exhumation of their dead or Famadihana, convinced that this guarantees their blessing. In the south, tombs may be brightly painted mausoleums where all sadness seems banned. And even in Antananarivo, a very Christian city if ever there was one, there are still seven “Doany” where royal ancestors are worshipped together with healing sessions. Next to the bucrania and sacred plants, the “Hasina”, the colours red and white are everywhere. • Christianity remains the dominant religion in its various denominations. But there are also fundamentalist congregations specific to Madagascar called “Toby” and one of the most representative ones is at Soatanàna near Fianarantsoa. Full white clothes are mandatory and biblical rituals such as foot-washing are followed to the letter. Tourists are warmly welcomed. • One last rather unusual note: Sunday morning at Father Pedro’s Akamasoa. Many tourists ask for this mass to be added to their Antananarivo programme. The priest’s charisma added to rhythmic hymns and choreography of young parishioners saved from hell in the streets, this is a moment of intense and colourful fervour.

MUSIC FESTIVALS • Donia, an essential component of the image of Nosy Be, had its 21st edition in June 2014 This tropical music Festival is recognized as the largest in this part of the Indian Ocean. An annual gathering of artists from the sister islands, it is preceded by a carnival where participants rival in imagination and for a time, give the Perfume Island a touch straight from across the Atlantic. • As for Madajazzcar, it is on the list of the world’s leading jazz festivals, and is the cultural event par excellence every October, mainly in Antananarivo and with a few branches in the provinces. The organizing committee works with the embassies, which make it a point of honour to send great jazz names from their countries. • Hira Gasy Makotrokotroka is a very good initiative from the Analamanga Regional Tourism Office and the Urban District of Antananarivo to promote one aspect of Imerina culture through Hira Gasy. The 2014 edition saw the participation of 22 groups which meet in pairs. The Festival has the advantage of taking place on the main historic squares of the capital during the peak tourist season.

CRAFTS Crafts have a cultural dimension, being the expression of popular genius. As proof, Zafimaniry woodcarving is listed in UNESCO’s Intangible World Heritage. The many craft markets in the capital, as well as specialty stores, are a focal point for crafts from all regions: marquetry and sculpture, wrought iron, raw silk, Antemoro paper, lace and embroidery, gemstones, pottery, books, horn products, sand bottles, baskets, paintings, bamboo, objects made from recycled material, etc...

last places where multicoloured “Malagasy candy” is still made, it having totally disappeared from the urban landscape. • Ambositra at 259 km: undisputed capital of wood carving and marquetry. Zafimaniry furniture and utensils. Wild silk woven from cocoons collected in the forests of Tapia, a tree endemic to Madagascar. • Fianarantsoa at 410 km: meetingpoint for crafts in the region. Start of the Wine Road where smallholders work alongside large companies.

• Ambalavao at 466 km: Antemoro paper and Betsileo “arindrano” fabrics sometimes fringed with beads. You can also admire decorated houses with verandas. • Ilakaka at 734 km: synonymous with sapphires and dreams of wealth, often with rudimentary methods worked by migrants from all walks of life. • Tulear at 950 km: a good idea for a souvenir of this city almost astride the Tropic of Capricorn, silver jewellery.

A special mention for the RN7 which in many ways might deserve the name Crafts Road. A main road that crosses three provinces and where, to borrow a phrase from a famous traveller, “we stop, non-stop”:

• Behenjy at 47 km: making succulent foie gras. • Ambatolampy at 68 km: a hundred foundries specialized in aluminium pots. Making table football, billiards, and aluminium sculptures. • Antsirabe at 169 km: gemstone industry, with the ablest stone workers on the island. One of the

Sustainable Tourism Madagascar National Parks | Andavadoaka Vohimana AND Vohibola | Anjozorobe Belo sur Tsiribihina | Marofandilia Anja AND Ambohimahamasina Nosy Be AND ALL THE OTHERS…

Madagascar National Parks, THE OFFICIAL NATIONAL PARKS MANAGER Apart from being a gene reservoir, Protected Areas play an ecological, educational, and economic role. Their rule is to allocate 50 % of entry fees received to developing local communities, at the same time alleviating the pressures endangering the Parks’ natural resources. For example: • involving men and women in ecotourism activities, • providing jobs and services such guides, porters, security guards, cart or canoe transport, accommodation and catering, • funding for community micro-projects.

The message to visitors is as simple as it is clear: your footprints at these sites support development of the people of the area while preserving nature. No longer has a mere spectator, the tourist become a full participant.

Andavadoaka, SOuTH OF Morombe This small village at the end of the world has already won the Undp Equator Prize from among 24 finalists selected from 300 projects in 70 countries. Running since 2003, the Andavadoaka Project was initiated by the NGO Blue Venture in partnership with the Institute of Fisheries and Marine Sciences. The objective was to demonstrate to fishermen the benefits from rational use of resources. This led to the creation of a Marine Protected Area which spontaneously received the support of 23 other villages in the region.

Vohimana AND Vohibola, NEAR THE Pangalanes These two forest fragments are among the best preserved of the eastern seaboard. The NGO Man and Environment has set up many development programmes there in harmony with nature: essential oil distillery, reforestation nurseries, agricultural training, health centre... There is a very interesting extra ecotourism component with a programme of a fishing village visit, a distillery and nursery tour with participation in reforesting degraded areas, guided plant trails and waterfowl watching...

A two-hour drive from Antananarivo, a bird-watching mecca, the Anjozorobe forest corridor is one of the last vestiges of natural forests in the Highlands. Initiatives to improve both biodiversity and people’s living conditions have been successfully carried out by the NGO Fanamby and private operators. These include setting up a village community association, granting direct and indirect benefits, promoting organic farming through fair trade, establishing a special relationship between ecotourism and the people’s economic activities. This type of scheme has been applied to other areas, including Menabe in the west of the island.

Anjozorobe FOREST CORRIDOR

Belo sur Tsiribihina AND ITS mangroves “Preserve and protect mangroves for our children’s future.” It is around this slogan that many rural communities in the districts of Belo Tsiribihina and Morondava have come together since 2006 to preserve natural resources. The initiative is to the credit of the Public Agency for Intercommunity Cooperation Alokaina whose programme ranges from raising awareness via local radio stations to supervision, reforestation, and restoration.

Marofandilia, 20 km FROM Baobab AVENUE

Located in the heart of a conservation site of the NGO Fanamby, Menabe Antimena is a small village that has seen a radical change in attitudes through a series of actions ranging from raising awareness about the negative impact of cutting down trees to using only dead wood for crafts, through setting up nurseries and reforestation. A carving craft shop meeting these standards has been opened, with income fairly shared between the carver who has the largest share, the commission for guides bringing in customers, the Association, and of course taxes. Their message? By purchasing these items you are contributing to improving the living conditions of the population, promoting Sakalava culture and conservation of natural resources in Menabe Antimena. Let us mention a few: eight species of lemurs, the narrow striped mongoose, the flat-tailed tortoise, the fosa and the giant jumping rat Vositse.

Anja AND Ambohimahamasina, IN THE Ambalavao AREA • The site of Anja, 11 km south of Ambalavao, is managed by the village association Anja Miray which won the Undp Equator Initiative Award in 2012, along with 24 other deserving communities around the world. This award is dedicated to the best examples of local development solutions for people and nature. Through hard work and belief, Anja today hosts over 6,000 visitors a year. • At Ambohimahamasina, east of Ambalavao, villagers have been trained in hospitality and introducing tourists to activities such as weaving, basket-making, blacksmithing, work in the rice fields. These are unforgettable moments to share. Good local guides can be found there for tours including the Ambondrombe Mountain, the dwelling-place of departed souls, according to legend.

NOSY BE COMMITS TO SUSTAINABLE TOURISM Nosy Be is not just about getting a tan! The idea of a Sustainable Tourism Charter was initiated in 2011 by the Inter-professional Association of Hotels and Tourism in partnership with the German cooperation agency and involving the Regional Tourism Office, the French Alliance and the Chamber of Commerce and Industry. From the outset, the enterprise, led by the consultant Richard Bohan, required proper parameter identification to respect and implement environmental, social, and community aspects, not to mention the important part of training. Moreover, its success was dependent on real commitment, not just lip service, on the part of businesses. And that did it! For the first season, the Monitoring and Evaluation Committee, on which sit the Regional Tourism Director, three representatives of the Regional Tourism Office, and three business people, checked and accepted 29 applicants. For the second season, objectives were revised upwards and 50 applicants were audited. For the third season, the criteria were raised even higher, but the number of applicants who were visited (65) shows things have really taken off. The rationale of this Charter is to ensure that operators’ behavior is exemplary both vis-à-vis the environment and in other areas, including social conditions. Once again, the Perfume Island is acting as a driver. Let’s hope many other areas follow suit!

7. In

UNESCO’s World Heritage THE 7 NationaL PARKS THE ROYAL HILL OF Ambohimanga Zafimaniry WOOD-CARVING

THE seven NATIONAL PARKS The Bemaraha Tsingy were included in the World Cultural Heritage list by UNESCO in 1990, followed in 2007 by six Parks grouped under the generic “Eastern Rainforests.”

Bemaraha With their tangle of sharp peaks, the Bemaraha Tsingy are known as the largest natural maze in the world. The cool green galleries contrast with the barren peaks, some of which have been dubbed “Tsingy May” or “Burnt Tsingy”...

Masoala With its land and marine sections, Masoala in the northeast is the largest National Park in Madagascar. It also includes that ecotourism gem, Nosy Mangabe, the entry point for the first waves of settlement in the Great Island.

Marojejy

Marojejy, in the Sava region, has been the guardian of an intact ecosystem for millennia. The trekking routes start from 50 m above sea level and get lost in the clouds; passing through five types of forest stacked one above the other.

Zahamena The little known Zahamena Forest is located in the eastern part of Alaotra. Its wealth of wildlife is remarkable with 109 species of birds, for instance.

Right in the “Land of Mists” and adjoining the island’s second biggest hot springs, the Ranomafana National Park, about sixty kilometers from Fianarantsoa, is the best equipped for observing eastern forest biodiversity.

Ranomafana

Andringitra Dominated by the Boby Peak, the second highest summit in the island, Andringitra is according to legend the place where all the birds in Madagascar have their annual get-together! In this mountain landscape, unique temperatures have been recorded in winter, with an absolute record of minus 8°C...

Andohahela, 60 km from Fort-Dauphin, is a curious transition between the wet world of the east and the arid south separated by the Anosy mountain chain. This park won the Silver Otter Trophy at the 1999 World Travel Market in London.

Andohahela

THE ROYAL HILL OF AMBOHIMANGA About twenty kilometres north of Antananarivo, Ambohimanga Hill is the birthplace of the Merina monarchy. That’s where the great king Andrianampoinimerina admired for days on end the site of Antananarivo before setting off to conquer it and make it his capital in 1794. The royal necropolis was also there before 1897 when General Gallieni decided to transfer the bodies to within the walls of the Queen’s Palace in Antananarivo to avoid any secret rebel meetings. A precaution in a country renowned for ancestor worship! The Rova, or royal residence, is still at the top of the hill surrounded by a picket fence enclosing the royal trees, Andrianampoinimerina’s rustic hut, the ox-pit, water pools, and the queens’ two summer houses. Today Ambohimanga is a sacred place where conservative families, respectful of the concept of “nentin-drazana” (inherited from the ancestors) come to relax and ask for blessings and protection.

The Hill has preserved its visual integrity including its forest, a remnant of the deciduous forest that once covered inland Madagascar. Since 2006 the site has been managed by the Ambohimanga Rova Cultural Site Office or OSCAR, an acronym that is also a tribute to a famous son of Ambohimanga, the singer Oscar Randria or Ossy, who was laid to rest there. The Agency is working with the village committees and manages income from entrance fees and state subsidies. Ambohimanga was included in World Cultural Heritage in 2001.

ZAFIMANIRY wood-carving Zafimaniry wood-carving art was actually revealed quite recently. After a great famine they were forced out of their closed world and sold some of their furniture to survive. The arrival of these richly carved objects was a great revelation, first in Ambositra and Fianarantsoa, then in Antananarivo. The real original Zafimaniry art - because there was subsequently a real “zafimanirimania” on the part of modern designers - is shown in household items: kitchen utensils, various containers, lighters known as Kapeky, chests, grain boxes, looms... as well as the elements of house construction, especially shutters, doors and beams. These houses, it is important to point out; do not have a single nail in them!

7 © Transcontinents / Richard Bohan

The Zafimaniry live in a fairly inhospitable region near Ambositra where trails are transformed into so many mudslides in the rainy season, and at a high enough altitude to be feeling the harsh Malagasy highland winter. Their villages, a hundred in all, are called Antoetra, Ambohimitombo, Faliarivo or Vohitrandriana. Built entirely of wood, they are a living museum of life in the highlands of Madagascar in ancient times.

Researchers have tried to interpret this art by analyzing the designs in which we may recognize a jumble of elements from the Indonesian islands, St Andrew’s Cross, or even the Union Jack! The Zafimaniry answer is clear: our ancestors already carved wood like this, period. Their art was included in Intangible Heritage in 2003.

Welcome to M

adagascar National Parks, the Manager of Madagascar’s Parks and Reserves, still serves its primary objective to combine sustainable conservation of protected areas and their promotion through ecotourism. This dual mission has resulted in numerous activities including tour development, facilitating access to protected areas, developing ecotourism facilities that meet international standards and of course the heart of its mission, preserving our unique biodiversity together with the local population. During more than twenty years of existence, we have not stopped looking for quality not only in conserving the unique, exceptional biodiversity that fills our protected areas but above all, to make each visit a unique and memorable experience, like their beauty. So much effort and investment would nevertheless have proved fruitless without the invaluable collaboration of our partners and not least the Tourism Professionals who are endeavouring every day to bring the unique experience of our National Parks to a wider audience. The handbook you are holding is collaboration between Madagascar National Parks and the Madagascar National Tourism Board. It was developed for tourism professionals, loyal partners in the common mission of promoting the Great Island and in particular our protected areas. Priceless jewels that are the envy of the world, the National Parks are illustrated through the pages of this paper, giving each player a journey of (re) discovery in the heart of Madagascar’s unique biodiversity. We have chosen to present the wealth of each National Park that makes its reputation and special features, with the most useful information: wildlife, plants, various tours, unique scenery. Through this manual, we want to strengthen the successful collaboration between us, Madagascar National Parks, and all the tourism professionals serving the destination Madagascar. United in promoting Madagascar National Parks, the island’s main attractions, we are optimistic about carrying on the success we have had together so far. More than anything else, we remain convinced of the considerable impact our business, i.e. the Environment, Tourism and Ecotourism, has on economic development in Madagascar through this type of collaboration!

Guy Suzon RAMANGASON General Manager Madagascar National Parks

Our missions Madagascar - one of 34 global biodiversity hotspots - is world renowned for its rich biodiversity: 80% of animal species and 90% of plant species are endemic to the island. Founded in 1990, the private association “Madagascar National Parks” is responsible for: · managing and protecting the protected area network, including fifty National Parks, Special Reserves and Integrated Natural Reserves. · conserving and managing National Parks and Reserves in a sustainable and efficient way (i.e. environmental education, eco-tourism and science). 50% of incomes from entry fees are used to fund economic and social development projects.

National Parks throughout 8. The

Central Highlands

Ambohitantely special Reserve Ranomafana national Park | Andringitra national Park

Ambohitantely Special reserve © Transcontinents / Richard Bohan

The Ambohitantely Special Reserve is located 140 km northwest of the capital Antananarivo in the three rural districts of Tsaramasoandro, Antakavana and Ambolotarakely north of Ankazobe. It can be visited all year round, although access is a little difficult in the rainy season. Covering an area of 4,943 ha including 1,800 ha of natural forest, it is 17 km long and 5 km wide across the middle. The forest section is composed of a one solid piece of about 1,300 ha, occupying the southern half of the reserve and about 500 ha of residual fragments in the northern part. The Reserve contains precious wood species such as palissander and ebony, a multitude of orchids

the island Central Highlands

8. The

page 46 to 49

9. In the

including 12 litophytes (growing on stony or rocky terrain) and 26 epiphytic types (growing on trees and other plants), and especially the spectacular Dypsis decipiens, Madagascar’s Royal Palm tree. As for wildlife, you can find chameleons including Brookesia therezieni, one of the smallest chameleons in the world, uroplates (Uroplatus fimbriatus and Uroplatus ebenaui), snakes (Leioheterodon madagascariensis or Menarana) and a multitude of birds (74 species) including the Railovy (Dicrurus forficatus) or the Crested Ibis (Lophotibis cristata or Akohonala). Among the mammals, the Dobson Microgale, fawn lemurs (Eulemur fulvus fulvus or Varika), a diurnal species; the red mouse-lemur (Microcebus rufus) weighing 25 g and the woolly Avahi (Avahi laniger laniger or Vahi), two nocturnal species, are very easy to see.

South page 50 to 55

10. In the

East page 56 to 59

11. In the

North-East, SAVA page 60 to 61

12. The

North page 62 to 67

13. In the West page 66 to 69

14. In the

North-West page 70 to 71

HOW TO GET THERE? Ambohitantely is 140 km northwest of Antananarivo. (125 km on the RN4 then turn off to the village of Firarazana and 15 km of track, a bit difficult during the rainy season, but passable). Time: 3 1/2 to 4-hour drive.

15. In the

North page 72 to 73

Ranomafana National ParK The Ranomafana National Park, sixty kilometres east of Fianarantsoa, an evergreen rainforest with an area of 41,601 ha lying between altitudes of 800 m and 1,200 m. The mountain, an extinct volcano, produces curative hot springs (rheumatism). The golden bamboo lemur (Hapalemur aureus) is the park’s main attraction. This lemur has the distinction of feeding primarily on an endemic variety of bamboo shoots (Cathariostechys madagascariensis). These shoots contain cyanide, and one of nature’s mysteries, the animal swallows a daily dose that could kill 10 people!

The park also contains many varieties of plants unknown elsewhere, probably due to the volcanic substrata. The flora consists of medicinal plants, giant tree ferns, epiphytic orchids (Bulbophyllum, Eulophillea...). A variety of cactus lives and grows in the Ranomafana forest: Rhipsalis madagascariensis. Unlike all cacti that prefer arid environments, Rhipsalis grows in moisture and is a parasitic plant, i.e. like orchids, it lives on, and at the expense of, other plants in its immediate environment.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Ranomafana is 412 km southeast of Antananarivo, 65 km northeast of Fianarantsoa and 139 km west of Mananjary. The RN45 highway and its extension, the RN25, run through the park. Beautiful paved road.

Andringitra National ParK

The Andringitra National Park is in the Province of Fianarantsoa, 47 km southeast of Ambalavao. Covering an area of 31,160 ha, Andringitra has the highest accessible peak in the Great Island, the Boby Peak, which rises to 2,658 m above sea level. It’s paradise for hikers and trekkers to roam the park, explore the Peak, “Aliens” Plateau and the sacred waterfalls Riandahy and Riambavy, traditional places of worship and rituals for local residents.

Andringitra has very rich wildlife. It includes 54 species of mammals, 14 species of lemurs particularly on the Imaitso tour, 50 species of reptiles and more than a hundred birds. In terms of plants, the park boasts over a thousand plant species including terrestrial and rock-growing orchids, Pachypodium, and also the rare Ravenea glauca, a palm tree endemic to the region.

HOW TO GET THERE?

From Antananarivo to Andringitra, take the RN7 as far as Ambalavao (462 km, 12-14 hour drive) then 50 km of track (2 hours) from Ambalavao to Ambalamanandray, the village closest to the Park. The part of the track between Ambalavao and Andringitra is accessible all year round but beware of rain barriers along the route that are closed for 12 hours during storms.

9. In the South Isalo national ParK | Zombitse Vohibasia national ParK Tsimanampesotse national parK | Bezaha Mahafaly spEcial REserve | CapE Sainte Marie spEcial REserve Andohahela national ParK

Isalo National ParK

Located in the Ihorombe region, near the village of Ranohira, the Isalo National Park covers 86,566 ha. It is a plateau of continental sandstone dating from the Jurassic era. Here, the rock formations have very variable appearances, shapes and compositions. Nature has adapted to the dry climate. The Park is an ecosystem of its own: it has an endemic rock plant made up of Aloes, Euphorbia, Pachypodium and Kalanchoe... The Isalo wildlife is typical for this unique habitat, most of it endemic. The altitude ranges from 514 m to 1,268 m, while some canyons are up to 200 m deep. The dry tropical climate provides

Down the long ribbon of the RN7 from the capital Antananarivo to Tulear, you will have a memorable stay in the country’s most popular National Park: Isalo.

Did you say dry? Only at first, because once you are inside the park, whether hiking to the natural pool, on the ride to Namazaha and the Nymphs waterfall or the trip to the Canyons (Makis and Rats), water flows in abundance, perfect for a refreshing swim after walking under a blazing sun.

HOW TO GET THERE? 700 km from Antananarivo on the RN7 (+/- 12-hour drive), 297 km (6 hours) south of Fianarantsoa and 242 km north of Tulear (3 hours). Accessible all year round.

a warm temperature averaging 17°C in June-July-August, but scorching to October-November, with peaks of 35°C.

Zombitse Vohibasia National ParK Covering an area of 36,308 hectares, the RN7 runs through the southern part of the park.

HOW TO GET THERE? Zombitse-Vohibasia is 146 km north of Tulear (2 1/2 hour drive) and 90 km south of Isalo National Park (1 1/2 hours), easy to reach as the RN7 runs through the southern part of the park. Accessible all year round.

As for the park’s wildlife, 8 species of lemurs have been identified, including the Propithecus verreauxi, Eulemur fulvus and Lemur catta (Maki, the ring-tailed lemur) living together in the same habitat, and even occupying the same tree to frolic together, which is rarely seen in other parks. Other mammals, including the carnivorous Fosa (Cryptoprocta ferox), amphibians, and reptiles may also be seen. The Zombitse Vohibasia National Park is a bird sanctuary, home to 85% of the birds found in Madagascar, of which 50% are endemic. Among them, the rare bird species, the Apert Bulbul or Ritikala, locally endemic, is found in all tourist areas of the Park.

©M

ada g

asc ar N ation

al P arks

The Vohibasia and Isoky-Vohimena Forests are the biggest blocks of forest among the semi-deciduous dry forest areas currently remaining in Madagascar. They represent the southern limit of Madagascar’s dry forest and the border between the eastern and southern botanical areas.

Tsimanampesotse National ParK © Marcello Spadoni

Classified as an Integrated Nature Reserve in 1927, this protected area covers an area of 203,740 ha and was the first listed Ramsar site in Madagascar in 1998 according to the International Wetlands Convention. 85 miles south of Tulear as the crow flies and 40 km from Anakao, this park consists of the limestone Mahafaly plateau covered with spiny forest, a saltwater lake named Tsimanampesotse, “the dolphin-free lake”, and a network of caves. Due to their chemical composition, the waters of the lake have no fish. On the other hand, two unique species of blind fish live in caves and underground rivers of the limestone plateau between Lake Tsimanampesotse and Itampolo. 123 species of birds have been recorded in the Park: the Madagascar Plover, and Couas and Vangas are best represented. During the southern winter, the lake is home to thousands of flamingos and lesser flamingos, and a large colony of crested coots and red-billed ducks.

Among mammals listed, the Vontsira Grandidier (Galidictis grandidieri), endemic to the region, and Maki (Lemur catta), the South’s icon, are the most notable. Four tours can be covered on foot, by car, motorbike or quad to discover new scenery, wildlife and plants: sacred caves, thousand year-old baobabs, pachypodiums, tortoises, lemurs, birds, superb views of the lake... One of the most spectacular is the banyan tree at the entrance of the cave where you can go cave diving, a unique service in Madagascar.

You are advised to visit the village of Antambahaoka Efoetse at the park entrance, typical of southern Madagascar with its specific cultural traditions, and the Vezo village of Ambola overlooking a beach protected by a coral reef, one of the finest beaches in the region.

HOW TO GET THERE? The Park is open to the public throughout the year and is accessible from Tulear (i) by speedboat via Anakao (1h + 2h transfer by track) or (ii) by road, on the RN7 and then on the RN10 before turning west to Beheloka, then to the Park (6-8 hour trip in all). Tickets are sold at the park entrance, Efoetse and Anakao. Recommended kit: hat, water, walking shoes, binoculars for bird watching. The park has 10 tents on the Mitoho campsite. Nearest Accommodation: Ambola and Anakao (transfers organized by a local hotel).

Bezaha Mahafaly SpEcial REserve © Madagascar National Parks

Bezaha Mahafaly is located about 35 km southeast of the small town of Betioky in the Atsimo Andrefana Region, accessible via a sandy track through a grasslands area. With 4,600 ha, the Special Reserve contains more than a hundred species of birds, including Archbold Newtonia (Newtonia archboldi) and Lafresnaye Vanga (Xenopirostris xenopirostris), two bird species with very limited distribution. Reptiles (39 species) and amphibians can also be seen. The reserve is also home to large colonies of Maki (Lemur catta) and sifaka (Propithecus verreauxi). During a night visit, you can discover the grey lemur and Lepilemurs. As for plants, the Reserve is typical of the sub-arid southwest with didieraceae (Alluaudia procera), Apocynaceae (Pachypodium geayi) and tamarind trees (Tamarindus indica).

HOW TO GET THERE? 215 km from Tulear northwards up the RN7 then south on the RN10 to Betioky and 35km of sandy track from Betioky. Accessible all year round.

CapE Sainte Marie SpEcial REserve

The Cape Sainte Marie Special Reserve, with an area of 1,750 ha, is located in the southernmost part of Madagascar, 60 km south of Tsihombe. This is where the Indian Ocean meets the Mozambique Channel. It is a natural reserve dedicated to the protection of certain species of wildlife and plants endemic to the south of Madagascar, the radiated tortoise and the spider tortoise. The Cape vegetation amazes you with its tendency to dwarfism, which is not considered a deformity but a necessary adaptation to the arid climate here. And it is especially these dwarf plants that command attention in the Reserve. It also houses the largest tortoise colony in Madagascar.

HOW TO GET THERE? © Madagascar National Parks

The Cape Sainte Marie special reserve is located in the southernmost region of Madagascar, 63 km south of the town of Tsihombe and 230 km from Fort-Dauphin in the Androy region. The drive from Fort-Dauphin takes 8 hours. Accessible all year round.

Andohahela National ParK The east side of the park has a hot, humid climate, while on the western side, it is hot and dry, with the prevailing sub-arid climate of southern Madagascar. In terms of wildlife, you find various species of diurnal lemurs including Verreaux Sifaka, the Lemur fawn, the grey Hapalemur and Maki. Nocturnal species include the brown lemur, the Lepilemur, the great cheirogale, the woolly Avahi and the Aye aye.

As for plants, with herbaceous vegetation, and a tropical humid forest on the east side, and thorny one on the west side, you note the triad palm (Neodypsis decaryi), specific to this region of Madagascar. Pachypodiums, Adenia, Baobabs and didieraceae can also be seen in the park.

HOW TO GET THERE? The Andohahela National Park is 40 miles northwest of Fort-Dauphin to the village of Ankariera. An 8 km walk to Tsimelahy leads to the park entrance. Accessible all year round.

40 kilometres northeast of Fort-Dauphin on the road to Amboasary, a turn-off leads to Ihazofotsy. This is where the Andohahela National Park lies, covering an area of 81,251 ha. The terrain is mostly mountainous with dense rain forest on the eastern slope and thorny bush on the western slope.

10. In

the East

Andasibe-Mantadia National ParK The Andasibe Mantadia National Park is about 130 km east of Antananarivo, in the Alaotra Mangoro region. The Park is a complex of protected areas made up of the Mantadia National Park and the Analamazaotra Special Reserve. North of the village of Andasibe, the Mantadia park covers 15,480 ha and is home to 14 species of lemurs, including the Aye Aye and Eulemur fulvus, the largest Madagascar chameleon, Calumma parsonii, the adult male can grow to 70 cm.

HOW TO GET THERE? 135 km east of Antananarivo (2 1/2 - 3 hour drive) and 250 km from Tamatave (4 1/2 - 5 hours) on the RN2. Accessible all year round.

On the botanical side, orchid lovers will be thrilled with the hundreds of species seen in the park. There are also tree ferns, Cyathea sp., the Tambourissa sp. which is a tree with rot-proof wood used by local people for building.

Andasibe-Mantadia National ParK Zahamena National ParK Mananara Nord National ParK Masoala National ParK

As for Analamazaotra Special Reserve, it is one of the most popular Protected Areas in Madagascar. With an area of 810 ha, the Reserve is home to 14 species of lemurs including the Indri Indri, the Park’s key species, the largest and most advanced of the lemurs. The Indri cannot live in captivity, is monogamous and has a stump for a tail, unlike all the other species of lemurs which are long-tailed.

The plants are exactly the same as those found in the Mantadia Park but we also find rare orchids such as the “Black Orchid” (Cymbidiella falcigera), not Martin Ritt’s famous American movie from 1958, but a very rare orchid usually growing on the trunk of the raffia palm. Its flowers are apple-green to yellow-green, dotted with several dark purple or black spots, which give the plant its name. You can also come across the famous “Comet” (Angraecum sesquipedale) and the queen of orchids, the Eulophiella roemploriana or purple orchid, the largest and certainly the most beautiful of all orchids. The well-mapped hiking trails in the Reserve enable you to find the wildlife and plants without any difficulty.

Zahamena National ParK 112 species of birds, 29 species of fish, 62 species of amphibians and 46 species of reptiles have been identified. Of the 48 mammal species recorded, 13 are lemurs including the Indri. The Ankosy-Bemoara and Bemoara-Cascade tours give a very informative visit to see the Park’s plants and wildlife. A 5-6 day trek on the “Smugglers Road” through parts of the park leads you to the East Coast.

HOW TO GET THERE? The park is located 70 km north-east of the city of Ambatondrazaka and east of Lake Alaotra. You reach the village of Antanandava then walk 8 km (about 1 1/2 hours) to the park entrance. Inaccessible during the rainy season.

Further north, straddling two regions, Alaotra Mangoro and Analanjirofo, the Zahamena complex of protected areas covers an area of 64,000 ha including a National Park of 42,300 ha which can be visited, the rest being reserved solely for conservation and scientific research.

Mananara Nord National ParK The Mananara-Nord Biosphere (140,000 ha) has a National Land Park of 23,000 ha and a 1,000 ha Marine Park. As part of one of the last rainforests on the Great Island, the Reserve contains plant and wildlife resources.

The Land Park is home to 12 species of lemurs, 16 rodents, 77 forest birds, 85 amphibians, 59 reptiles, 1,200 endemic vascular plants and palm trees. For the Marine Park, there are seven species of mangroves, 32 algae, 132 cnidarians,

64 molluscs, 16 arthropods, 32 echinoderms, 179 fish, 3 marine mammals, 3 aquatic reptiles, 11 species of birds. The endemic Vontrorano palm (Dypsis antanambensis), Dypsis anoveansis, Dypsis ramentaceae add charm to the vegetation and the Lavanioala orchid (Galeola humblotii) is unique here. As for wildlife you can see in particular the red Vanga (Calicalicus madagascariensis), an endemic bird and the largest lemur species (Indri indri), the Aye Aye and the Avahi laniger.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Air Madagascar air link from Antananarivo (1 1/2 hour flight) and Toamasina (45 minute flight), by boat up the coast from Toamasina (12 hours). A difficult track (RN5) connects the east coast cities from Toamasina to Maroantsetra crossing a dozen rivers and/or estuaries starting from the village of Soaniearana Ivongo.

al Pa r Nation © Ma daga scar

“Where the forest meets the sea!”. It is the largest complex of Protected Areas in Madagascar with 224,286 ha, consisting of four plots of land and three marine sites around the Masoala Peninsula. The Masoala National Park and the Nosy Mangabe Special Reserve dedicated to protecting the Aye Aye are the major attractions of the complex.

Masoala National ParK

Primeval forest descends from an altitude of 1,300 meters to the sea. The Park is one of the richest in Madagascar with over 50% of the country’s plant and animal species. This is the sole habitat of the red vari lemur (Varecia variegata rubra), an impressive species of lemur that is found on the peninsula.

The Tytosoumagnei or Madagascar red owl was rediscovered there after disappearing for a long time. Other birds such as the Serpent Eagle or Prevost Eurycère, species very popular with visitors, can also be seen. As for Nosy Mangabe, it is a small island in the middle of the Antongil Bay. Its mission is preserving the rare Aye Aye.

HOW TO GET THERE? Located between Toamasina and Maroantsetra, the same route as above.

11. In the

North-East, SAVA Marojejy National ParK

Marojejy National ParK The local name Marojejy indicates the local people’s view of the mountain. “Maro” means “many”, and “jejy” are “spirits”.

The Tsimihety and Betsimisaraka peoples, the majority in the SAVA region, worship their ancestors. They believe that the ancestors’ immortal souls help the living. They make offerings and sacrifices (usually zebu cattle) in the “Joro” (a traditional custom devoted to the ancestors).

In the north-eastern part of Madagascar, 60 km from Sambava on the road to Andapa, Marojejy was discovered by Professor Humbert in 1948. He was a prominent botanist from the Paris Natural History Museum who arrived in Madagascar after travelling around many African mountains. Following his expedition to this mountain, he published a book entitled “A Wonder of Nature” where he describes the range as the most prestigious in the island both by its size, wealth of plant life and especially by its being almost wholly intact. He enthusiastically registered Marojejy as an Integrated Nature Reserve (RNI) of Madagascar in 1952, a status that put it strictly off limits except to researchers. Marojejy remained a RNI for a long time, but in 1998 its status was changed to a National Park, which now allows everyone to discover this natural wonder. With 65,050 ha peaking at an altitude of 2,132 m, Marojejy is covered with vegetation ranging from lowland forests to the mountain thickets of Madagascar’s tropical areas. The steep slopes are of great interest biologically and ecologically. It has exceptional diversity of plants and animals, and is a paradise for mountain lovers and demanding naturalists.

260 fern species including 18 tree species, over 30 species of palm trees including 6 species endemic to the mountain, 147 species of amphibians and reptiles, 115 species of birds including the Siketribe (Neomixis tenella) which is the Park emblem, 10 species of lemurs including the Simpona (Propithecus diademacandidus), the spectacular silky sifaka, which is endemic in the region, these are all Marojejy’s pride.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Marojejy is halfway between Sambava, 60 km away, and Andapa, 40 km away, on the RN5B. 1-hour flight Antananarivo-Sambava then about 1 hour’s drive to the village of Manantenina. Accessible all year round.

12. The

North AMBER MOUNTAIN national PARK | Ankarana national ParK Ankarafantsika national ParK

Amber Mountain is the largest complex of Protected Areas in the north with its 23,010 ha including 18,200 ha of National Park ranging in altitude from 850 m to 1,476 m. Covered with lush vegetation and a thick coat of green rainforest, Amber Mountain is a paradise for botanists. With its considerable rainfall rate, it is the wettest part of the island, which makes it a real water source for much of the region. The wild beauty of its scenery evokes wonder over the whole of the National Park, i.e. nearly 18,000 hectares of green forest with long rivers linking lakes, large and small: the Cursed Lake, Lake Texier, Lake Fantany and the Great Lake. Due to its volcanic nature, streams and waterfalls gush forth everywhere, offering stunning views: Antomboka, Sacred Falls and Antakarana Falls. In addition, you can visit the cave called “Fox Crater.”

AMBER MOUNTAIN National PARK

Amber Mountain is also a Special Reserve and a classified forest. All around it, other magical places are mentioned: 4 waterfalls on the Special Reserve side and at Andranotsimaty, the Kija-Zanahary and Andavakoera cave. On the southeast side of the park, at Anivorano, lies the Antagnavo Sacred Lake. Outside the surrounding area, there are places of attraction available to travellers in search of the exotic. These include Sakalava Bay, Dunes Bay, Emerald Bay, Courier Bay, French Mountain and the Ampasindava and Ramena beaches. A centre for endemic nature, Amber Mountain is particularly rich in plants and wildlife: lemurs, birds, various reptiles have taken up residence there. Lemurs are present in large numbers (8 species) including the friendly crowned lemur (Eulemur coronatus), the Sanford Lemur (Eulemur sanfordi) and nocturnal species such as the brown lemur (Microcebus rufus) or the Aye aye (Daubentonia madagascariensis).

Many species of medicinal plants, orchids, including many varieties (Bulbophyllum, Agraecum eberneum...), ferns and more than 1,000 plant species are still to be discovered in this evergreen forest of great scientific interest. The same goes for large trees such as the ramy (Canarium madagascariensis), which has a strong turpentine smell, the Famelona (Chrysophyllum) used to treat chest pain, the Rotra which gives edible fruits which lemurs are crazy about, the Ficus with branches laden with fruit which support orchids. Birds Nest and tree ferns, palm trees and pandanus are common. A nature trail, the Thousand Tree Way, has been specially arranged so as to present most of the Amber Mountain National Park’s botanical diversity in the same area.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Amber Mountain is 35 kilometres southwest of Diego Suarez which is served daily by Air Madagascar. Accessible all year round.

Ankarana National ParK

Commonly called the “Tsingy”, this National Park with an area of 25,228 ha forms a set of eroded limestone rock formations and conceals an important part of Antakarana social and cultural treasure within its underground network. It is located in the north of the island, near Ambilobe, and has a rocky outcrop peaks, with caves, gorges, canyons and volcanic scenery. The vegetation is typical of karst plateaus, with a seasonal dry forest on basalt soil and a forest on mixed limestone and basalt soil, prairie grasslands and invasive plants. The climate is dry and tropical, with 90 days average rainfall per year. There are 10 species of lemurs, including the tawny Lemur (Eulemur fulvus), the Lepilemur septentrionalis and the grey Hapalemur (Hamalemur griseus), and 92 species of birds of which 54 are endemic to Madagascar, such as the whitebreasted mesite which is one of the world’s rarest birds. Ankarana also has 13 species of bats, chameleons, and crocodiles. © Madagascar National Parks

In terms of plants, endemic species such as the baobab Adansonia perrieri abound in the Park. There are plenty of pachypodiums, euphorbias and other varieties of succulents, finding a favourable climate for growth. The Tsingy Rary, Bat Cave, or Green Lake tours, lasting from one to several days’ walk will delight hikers discovering one of Madagascar’s richest natural treasures.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Ankarana National Park is 80 kilometres south of Diego Suarez (2-hour drive) and 20 kilometres north of Ambilobe (45 minutes) on the RN6. Accessible all year round.

agascar

Nation

al Par

The Ankarafantsika Protected Area complex is located in the northwest of Madagascar, 450 km from Antananarivo and 115 km from Majunga on the RN4 that runs through it. It consists of two protected areas: the Natural Reserve, a space dedicated to research and conservation with an area of 61,120 ha, located on the west and east sides of the RN4, and the National Park with an area of 75,000 ha, including the Ampijoroa Forestry Station. Ankarafantsika lies in the western forest area. It is covered by a mosaic of dry deciduous dense forests, forests often degraded into secondary scrub and grasslands. The plateaus are filled with dry deciduous forests interspersed with waterlogged areas in the valleys where there are plenty of raffia plants.

Several rivers rise here and often flow round islands of raffia and pandanus. The predominant tree types are the Stereospenum and the Dalbergia (palissander). Pachypodium and other xerophytes are found in sandy areas.

The Ankarafantsika National Park is 450 km from Antananarivo on the RN4 and 115 km from Majunga. The journey takes 8 hours from Antananarivo and 2 hours from Majunga. Accessible all year round.

Ankarafantsika is highly renowned for its rich wildlife. In the Ampijoroa forestry station, there is captive breeding of rare endangered tortoises: Rere (Erymnochelys madagascariensis) Angonoka (Geochelone yniphora) Kapidolo (Pyxis planicauda) in collaboration with DWCT. Several animal species, including the sifaka lemur, and also the Ravelobe crowned lemur, have taken up residence in Ankarafantsika. It is also one of the most important of the Great Island’s bird-watching sites: over 50% of birds recorded across the country can be seen here. The Nile crocodiles in Lake Ravelobe are also the subject of ancestor worship.

A few lakes in the reserve are the last refuges of some endemic fish, aquatic birds and crocodiles. In addition, they are usually shrines for local people’s socio-cultural practices.

13. In the West Andranomena spEcial rEserve Kirindy Mite national parK | Bemaraha national parK

This protected area is located 11 km from Baobab Avenue on the track between Morondava and Belo Tsiribihina towards the Bemaraha National Park. Covering an area of 6,420 hectares, its challenge is to preserve the habitat of many endemic vulnerable or endangered animal species, including the Pyxis planicaudae tortoise and the Jumping Rat Mungoticis decemlineata. Eight species of lemurs live there as well as 61 species of birds. There are also three species of baobabs Adansonia fony, Adansonia grandidieri and Andansoni za. The Andranomena Reserve has the distinction of having a network of four lakes, some of which dry up at the end of the dry season (November), marking the start of waterfowl migration. One lake is the scene of a Sakalava tradition, the Fertility Rite, which also involves the male baobab growing in the reserve. Residents of nearby villages, Marofandilia and Andranomena, carry out the rite, accompanied by typical southern music, the Kilalaky. Two easy tours that can be done on foot or by bike are available: • The “Tsinjolavitra Tour”, a ride through the typical fauna and flora of the dry western forests, takes 1 hour over a distance of 2 km. • The “Three Lakes Tour” goes along the sacred lakes and offers open areas in the forest for observation over a distance of 5.4 km, to cover in 2 hours.

The Andranomena Special Reserve is accessible all year round.

NEAREST ACCOMMODATION: Lovers Camp, 14 tents managed by the Marofandilia village community with the assistance of the NGO Fanamby. Tickets to enter the reserve are on sale at Baobab Avenue and Lovers Camp.

Andranomena SpEcial REserve

Kirindy Mite NATIONAL PARK The Kirindy Mite National Park, with a total area of 156,350 ha including 128,440 ha of land and 27,910 ha for the marine reserve, is south of Belo sur Mer, 70 km from Morondava. This park features a variety of landscapes and diverse ecosystems harbouring high biodiversity: an immense coastal dune extended by a lagoon several kilometres long and home to a mangrove swamp; • dry deciduous forests, the eastern Kirindy and the southern Mite, which have given their names to the Park. The latter includes an area of drought-tolerant bushes (associated with dry weather) and brackish lakes frequented by many water birds; • coral islands with white sandy beaches.

Kirindy Mite hosts 124 species of birds, including the Bernier teal (Anas bernieri) and the Madagascar Plover (Charadrius thoracicus), which make it an ideal site for bird watchers. It also has a large variety of lemur species including the Verreaux Sifaka (Propithecus verreauxi) and Maki (Lemur catta) for diurnal species. The park offers five hiking tours and a marine system, with difficulty levels ranging from easy to average.

In the park are found large stands of baobab trees representing three species endemic to the south and southwest: Grandidieri Adansonia, Adansonia za and Adansonia rubrostipa.

• In the south, the tour takes in sacred lakes Ambondro and Sirave with storks, spoonbills, herons, egrets and flamingos, baobabs and big dunes. Visiting the village of Manahy is a must. The local people, Masikoro Sakalava, think that the lakes are the homes of spirits; • To the north, the Ambararata trail passes through several baobab clusters;

NEAREST ACCOMMODATION:

• The Ankoatsifaka tour lets you discover mammals (lemurs, fosa) in a typical western forest; • The Anolinoly tour offers a boat ride in the mangrove swamp to meet flying foxes hanging from the branches of the mangroves; • The sea tour leads to the islands of Nosy Tania, Mailolo, Andriamitaroka, Motsadiniky and Andravoho to discover coral reefs and sea turtles.

Belo sur Mer where you also find the Park Guide Centre and the admission ticket sales point. RECOMMENDED KIT: hat, water, walking shoes, binoculars for bird watching, goggles and snorkel for the sea tour. The park is open all year round and is reached either by land, from May to October, 4x4 only taking the RIP111 from Bemanonga south of Morondava, or by sea from Belo sur Mer or Morondava.

Bemaraha National ParK The Bemaraha National Park, located near the village of Bekopaka in the Melaky Region, is one of the first Madagascar sites listed in the Natural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 1990, and covers 157,710 ha. The Bemaraha plateau is at a moderate altitude of 934 m, the jagged surface is made up of karst and lapiez limestone deposits. Covered by the dense, dry Antsingy forest, water erosion has carved a tight network of deep crevices separated by fluted blades and sharp points: the “Tsingy”. The tropical climate is dry with a marked contrast between the cool dry season from April to October, and a very hot rainy season from November to March. Rainfall varies between 1,000 and 1,500 mm per year and the average temperature is between 25 and 28°C, with extremes of 9°C in July and 38°C in December.

The environment offers a large number of varied habitats, homes to a wealth of wildlife. You can see mammals, carnivores, rodents and insect-eaters in the region. Bemaraha has at least 11 species of lemurs, including 3 diurnal ones and 8 nocturnals. The Sifaka (Propithecus deckeni) is the largest and the Tilitilivaha (Microcebus murinus) is the smallest. Fosa (Cryptoprocta ferox) are also

Bemaraha has unique flora. The general appearance of the vegetation is of a dense, dry forest dotted with grasslands. Several types of vegetation co-exist: very dry on limestone slabs, wet in the canyons and along streams.

present in this region. Besides mammals, land birds and water fowl are numerous and 90 species are represented. You can spot the Madagascar osprey (Haeliaetius vociferoides), one of the world’s rarest birds of prey, at the entrance of the gorge or on the lakes. Fifty species of reptiles are also present in the Tsingy, with geckos and Brookesia and Nile crocodiles.

Mangroves are spectacular in the western deltas with their 7 different species.

Plants have different forms of adapting to difficult conditions, which explains their particular appearance. Currently, 430 plant species have been recorded of which 85% are endemic. The Antsingy flora is typically tropophile, belonging to the Dalbergia commiphora and Hildegardia series. In the forest of Tsimembo, a botanical inventory counted 261 plant species including Hazomalania voyroni with its rot-proof wood, often used for making coffins.

HOW TO GET THERE? 180 km north of Morondava on a trail through Baobab Avenue and a ferry across the Tsiribihina River. 8-10 hour drive depending on the state of the track after the rainy season. The park is open all year, but the access road is virtually impassable from January to March. From December to April, the Manambolo River overflows its banks, making any visit impossible. An airstrip for light aircraft is located at Bekopaka, the village closest to the Park.

14. In the

North-West Baly BaY National ParK / Namoroka Tsingy Lokobe National ParK | Nosy Tanikely marinE National ParK

Located in the northwest of Madagascar, the Baly Bay National Park / Namoroka Tsingy is a natural site rich in unusual discoveries. Part of the Protected Areas complex of Baly Bay National Park at Soalala, Namoroka covers an area of 22,227 ha. A site of exceptional beauty, Namoroka attracts mostly amateur sports tourists, scientists and ecological tourism enthusiasts. Namoroka enjoys a dry tropical climate. The average annual temperature is around 25°C.

The Namoroka Tsingy are a paradise for nature lovers. The Tsingy, the original limestone scenery, are the park’s main attraction. A limestone formation with a dolomite network, the Kartz occupies an area of 16,000 ha on the edge of the park. You can enjoy the splendour of this rock formation either on a guided tour or by taking a small plane, as well as the Park’s rivers and natural pools such as Ambararata or Ambatofolaka. Namoroka has extraordinarily rich flora: • Various vegetation types such as steppes, savannas and dense forests, a total of 218 plant species spread over families such as the Tiliaceae, the Rubiaceae... • Various species of animals such as lemurs (Aye aye, sifaka Propithecus deckeni, Eulemur furcifer, Lepilemur edwardsi, Hapalemur griseus...), reptiles, birds (Ankoay...), the rare Angonoky tortoise...

HOW TO GET THERE? Namoroka is accessible by land, by ferry across Bombetoka bay to Katsepy. From Katsepy, the RIP19 (bush taxi or rental car) leads to Soalala over 150 km, 8 hours away. A bush taxi runs daily from Katsepy to Soalala but departure time depends on the vehicle being full up. Then from Soalala, a 56 km track, passable for a 4x4, leads to Namoroka. Alternatively: from Bekopaka, along the western part of the BemarahaTsingy, go through Antsalova and take the track to Maintirano-Besalampy-Soalala. A challenging route, a 4x4 vehicle is required.

Baly BAY NATIONAL PARK / Namoroka Tsingy

LOKOBE NATIONAL ParK Located southeast of the island of Nosy Be, the Lokobe National Park has two parts: land and sea. It surprises visitors with its 740 hectares of forest, and a discovery for sea lovers, a vast expanse of 122 hectares which is the Marine Park.

It takes its name from the fact that the forest was home to wild bees, causing significant production of honey and wax. Indeed, Lokobe literally means “a lot of wax.” The Park is one of the few places in Madagascar where the primeval Sambirano forest still exists. It features a dozen permanent streams and consists of low hills, no higher than 432 metres, which fall abruptly into the sea in the south and west. The marine part of Lokobe is characterized by the presence of coral reefs and rocky beaches. In terms of biodiversity, the park is home to countless exceptional species, namely:

HOW TO GET THERE?

• Its rich flora and endemic medicinal plants such as the palm trees Dypsis ampasindavae and Dypsis nosibensis • 42 species of birds, including the Ispidina madagascariensis (Malagasy kingfisher or Vintsimena), the Asio madagascariensis (Madagascar owl) • 50 species of reptiles, including the Acrantophis madagascariensis (Boa), the Zonosaurus boettgeri (Lizard) • 3 species of primates, including Eulemur macaco, Lepilemur tymerlachsonorum • 14 species of amphibians, including Mantella ebenaui, Stumpffia pygmae...

By air: from the capital, a scheduled flight links Ivato airport to Fascène, the Nosy Be airport. For those who are already in the northern part of the island, there are two flights a week from Diego Suarez to Nosy Be. From the airport (Fascène), approved city taxis provide transfers from the airport to Hellville. The transfer from Hellville to the park entrance (at Ambalafary-Marodoka), is by tuk-tuk. By car, then launch or boat: drive from Antananarivo or Diego Suarez (bush taxi or private car) to the port of Ankify (Ambanja), the starting point for launches and speedboats. A boat and fast launch service runs from Ankify (Ambanja) to Hellville harbour.

The three tours in the Lokobe National Park - Ramy, Mitsinjo, and Kindro - are self-guided, with no obligation to use guides.

Nosy Tanikely National marinE ParK Nosy Tanikely National Park is located in northwest Madagascar. The diversity of its scenery, whether on land or sea, can be discovered by boat trips and excursions ashore. The area of the Island is 10 ha and the marine part is 170 ha for a protection zone of 160 ha. Its highest point is 40 metres. There are steep cliffs on the north and west sides of the island, a steep slope on the east-northeast side, a gentle slope down to the beach from the south-southeast. The small island hosts secondary forest vegetation and a small plot of various plants. The plants on the island represent the Sambirano region. Plant formations have a degraded appearance and are composed of 38 families over 81 genera and 89 species. Regarding wildlife, Nosy Tanikely includes 5 families of reptiles belonging to 11 species and 13 species of birds including 7 that are endemic to the area as well as the bat species Pteropus rufus. Two primate species are found in the forest with Eulemur fulvus and Eulemur macaco. The marine park is surrounded by reefs and sandy beaches, broken up by a few rocky outcrops. A sloping coral reef slope for scuba-diving or snorkeling, or flat reefs for snorkeling using only goggles, snorkel and fins.

HOW TO GET THERE? Only by boat, from the island of Nosy Be.

15. In the

North Nosy HARA NATIONAL ParK Sahamalaza-Radama ISLANDS biosphEre rEserve

Nosy HARA NATIONAL ParK

Located 35 km from Diego Suarez, the Nosy Hara National Park is one of the emerging parks managed by Madagascar National Parks. Managed in collaboration with the local population, the park has an area of 125,471 ha. It consists of three parts: Courier Bay with the Nosy Hara archipelago, Nosy Faty and Nosy Agnambo. Nosy Hara is characterized by a great variety of marine and coastal habitats, including: mangroves, coral reefs, seagrass areas and 18 satellite islands. It is also a park of great ecological importance: a feeding area for dugongs, a nesting site and feeding area for 5 species of sea turtles, a nesting site for terns, the territory of ten couples of Ankoay fisheagles, and a dormitory for bats, egrets and terns.

Nosy Hara offers visitors unique scenery such as the archipelago of karst islands, island Tsingy, coral gardens with colourful fish and shellfish, the forest of baobabs and pachypodiums, the snaking river bordered by the mangrove forest, white sandy beaches and clear, turquoise blue sea. Significant wealth in plants and animals is seen in the park, including 45 genera of corals, 7 mangrove species, 9 species of seagrass, 27 species of echinoderms, 380 species of fish, 5 species of sea turtles, 54 species of molluscs, 8 species of sea birds and an exemplary population of Dugong dugong. Many tourist activities can be done in Nosy Hara such as climbing karst cliffs, snorkeling on the coral reef, fishing, excursions and camping on the beach, watching the dolphins or turtles at egg-laying time.

HOW TO GET THERE? Nosy Hara is accessible by secondary road to Ampasindava and/or Courier Bay. It is also accessible by boat round Cap d’Ambre and/or from Nosy Be.

Sahamalaza-Radama ISLANDS BiosphEre REserve

Sahamalaza is located in the northwest of Madagascar, between Narinda and Mahajamba bays to the south and Ampasindava Bay and Nosy Be to the north. Since certification in 2001, it is the second UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in Madagascar after Mananara Nord. The marine and coastal park making up most of the central zone of the Biosphere Reserve was established in 2007. Spread over a total area of 153,200 hectares, it has extraordinary wealth of biodiversity, both on land and sea. Sahamalaza-Radama Islands Biosphere Reserve consists of three major ecosystems, i.e. the marine ecosystem of 10,000 hectares with five islands, the coastal ecosystem of 10,000 ha consisting mainly of mangroves, and finally a forest ecosystem of 11,00 ha. Dry and coastal forests are home to the Reserve’s 220 plant species. For wildlife, you can see 9 species of lemurs, 41 species of birds including 16 species endemic to Madagascar, 20 species of reptiles and 14 species of amphibians. The reserve has 218 species of corals and invertebrates and 168 species of fish. Having higher indicators than other reef sites, the Marine Park is an ideal habitat for HOW TO GET THERE? 20 species of sea cucumbers By road: RN6 (to endangered by over-fishing.

The 8 existing mangrove species in Madagascar are found in the SahamalazaRadama Islands as well as 76 bird species, including 31 endemic to Madagascar. Among them, 5 species are threatened with extinction according to IUCN criteria. With the lure of exceptional biodiversity, the Sahamalaza National Park has several tours including one that has made the reputation of the protected area: the four Radama islands. With Nosy Saba, they make up the Sahamalaza archipelago with their vast beaches protected by coral reefs.

Antsiranana), paved as far as Maromandia 750 km from Antananarivo, a day and a half away. By boat: leaving Analalava, 3-hour crossing by launch, and Nosy Be, 3-hour crossing.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

CURRENCY

A visa to stay up to one month is free.

The local currency is the Ariary. As the Malagasy currency is not convertible, it is advisable to change your money as the need arises.

An entry and residence visa for a single entry is issued to tourists at the airport or port of arrival or from diplomatic and consular authorities.

LANGUAGES

CHANGING MONEY

Malagasy is the official language with dialects. French is understood almost everywhere. For other languages: English, Russian, Spanish, Chinese, multilingual guides are available.

Banks and exchange offices in the city, airports, shopping malls or big hotels are the only ones authorized to carry out foreign exchange transactions. Avoid black-market traders.

TIME DIFFERENCE

BANKS

Madagascar is GMT +3. It is therefore - 7 hours in Canada and the United States, - 6 hours in Brazil, - 3 hours in winter and - 2 hours in summer for the United Kingdom; + 1 hour in Mauritius and Seychelles, + 4 hours in Thailand, + 5 hours in China, + 6 hours in Japan and South Korea, and + 8 hours in Australia.

Banks have branches in major cities. They are open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and most of them are equipped with ATMs taking Visa and MasterCard international cards. Remittances can also be made through branches of the Western Union network.

CLIMATE

The duty-free shops in the Antananarivo-Ivato airport are very well stocked and have very competitive prices. There are duty free outlets in cities, some provincial airports open to international flights, and in the malls of some major hotels. Items are already tax-free at the checkout. You must produce a return ticket and proof of identity.

The climate is tropical and humid. The year is marked by two main seasons: the rainy season, hot and humid, which begins in midNovember and ends in late March, and the dry season from April to October. And mind the sun! On the coast, the temperature can easily reach 40°C in October-November.

DUTY FREE SHOPS

SPECIAL TAX-FREE PURCHASES Travellers can take out 2 kg of vanilla, 250 g to 1 kg of hallmarked jewellery and 4 different crocodile leather items purchased from authorized retailers, showing the receipts and authorizations initialled by the forestry service.

REGULATED PURCHASES Don’t become a trafficker out of ignorance or a mere yen for the exotic! Find out in advance about procedures before taking out any animals, plants or handicrafts.

ELECTRICITY It is usually 220 volts. The electrical sockets currently used in Madagascar are F-type. Hotels that are off-grid, or foreseeing unexpected power cuts, have their own generators. Solar power also has its supporters. Take battery-powered appliances for extreme cases...

HEALTH No vaccinations are required for travellers unless they have passed through an infected area. Antimalaria prophylaxis and an injection of gamma globulin against hepatitis

Preparing your trip

are nevertheless recommended, as well as precautions against cholera and yellow fever. On epidemics that occur from time to time in the world, the Malagasy health authorities have the same level of information and responsiveness as their colleagues overseas.

TELECOMMUNICATIONS 3 telecom operators cover almost all of Madagascar: Orange, Airtel and Telma. They provide all the standard services including landlines and mobile phones, broadband internet... Roaming is possible, check with the operator before departure. Some hotels offer wifi and internet cafes are plentiful in the cities. To call a landline number from overseas, dial the international code + 261 + 20 + area code + the phone number. To call a mobile phone from overseas, dial 261 + the number without the 0.

VISITING NATIONAL PARKS There is a Code of Conduct for visitors. Here are some excerpts: • Do not leave waste behind you, • Take away your plastic, metal, glass, • Do not go off marked paths, • Camp only in authorized places, • To preserve the forest, reduce your comfort requirements, • Do not take anything, leave the plants, animals, and insects in the forest, • Do not feed the animals, do not disturb them with violence or too much noise, • Don’t buy your souvenirs anywhere, because you don’t know where they come from. • Non-compliance with regulations can lead to sanctions for visitors or visit organizers.

WHALE-WATCHING Whales and dolphins travel thousands of kilometres to reach the coast of Madagascar. The warm waters of this part of the Indian Ocean are the perfect place for mating and calving. Sea mammals must be observed in a respectful manner to ensure the species is preserved. A code of conduct to minimize impact risk: • Do not disturb the pods’ movement, • Stop watching if the pod shows signs of being disturbed or aggressive, • Approach from three-quarters to the rear, • Place all the boats parallel to the whales on the same side, • Slow the boat down at a safe distance: 800 m for whales, 500 m for dolphins, • Maximum observation time: 1 hour for a group of adult whales, 30 min for a mother and her calf or a dolphin pod.

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Useful

contacts

MINISTèRE DU TOURISME Rue Fernand Kasanga Tsimbazaza BP 610, 101 Antananarivo Tel.: +261 20 22 668 05 tourisme.gov.mg

TOURISM OFFICES Office National du Tourisme de Madagascar Lot IBG 29 C Antsahavola - BP 1780 101 Antananarivo Tel.: +261 20 22 661 15 Fax: +261 20 22 660 98 ontm@moov.mg madagascar-tourisme.com

Office Régional du Tourisme Alaotra Mangoro 1er étage Restaurant Bezanozano 514 Moramanga Tel.: +261 33 11 413 21 ortalma01@gmail.com ortalma.org

Office Régional du Tourisme Amoron’i Mania Hôtel Mania Ijaky Ambositra Tel.: +261 32 41 003 74 maccorinne@yahoo.fr Office Régional du Tourisme d’Analamanga 1er étage, Immeuble FJKM Analakely Escalier Ranavalona - 101 Antananarivo Tel.: +261 20 22 270 51 / +261 20 24 304 84 info@ortana.mg tourisme-antananarivo.com

Office Régional du Tourisme Analanjirofo Lot K7342 Ankiakalava - Maroantsetra ortanala@gmail.com

Office Régional du Tourisme Atsimo Atsinanana C/o Le Concombre Masqué, rue Centrale Farafangana farafcm@yahoo.fr

Office Régional du Tourisme Betsiboka Hôtel Betsiboka - Maevatanana Tel.: +261 33 03 082 69

Office Régional du Tourisme de Diego Suarez Angle rue Flacourt - rue Colbert 201 - Antseranana Tel.: +261 33 05 306 32 tourismediego@gmail.com office-tourisme-diego-suarez.com

Office Régional du Tourisme de Fianarantsoa Immeuble Tranompokonolona Taloha Tsianolondroa - 301 Fianarantsoa Tel.: +261 20 75 904 67 ortfianara@yahoo.fr tourisme-fianara.com

Office Régional du Tourisme de Fort-Dauphin Bazaribe - 614 Fort Dauphin Tel.: +261 20 92 904 12 fortdauphin.ort@gmail.com

Office Régional du Tourisme Isalo Ihorombe ORT Isalo Ihorombe - Ranohira - Ihosy 313 Tel.: +261 33 25 906 68 ortisalo.ihorombe@gmail.com

Office Régional du Tourisme Itasy C/o AMADESE - en face Restaurant Lovasoa Ampefy Soavinandriana Itasy Tel.: +261 34 10 275 18 / +261 33 14 493 50 ortitasy@gmail.com

Office Régional du Tourisme de Boeny 14, avenue Philibert Tsiranana 401 Mahajanga Tel.: +261 20 62 931 88 / +261 34 08 088 80 ortmajunga@moov.mg majunga.org

Office Régional du Tourisme Melaky Direction Régionale de la Pêche et des Ressources Halieutiques (DRPRH) Maintirano Tel.: +261 33 11 674 94 ort_melaky@gmail.com

Office Régional du Tourisme de Menabe Kiosque au Bord de la mer - Route de Nosikely - Morondava Tel.: +261 32 40 766 82 ort_men@yahoo.fr

Office Régional du Tourisme de Nosy Be CCIAA - BP 219 - 207 Nosy Be Tel.: +261 86 920 62 ortnb@moov.mg nosybe-tourisme.mg

Office Régional du Tourisme de Sainte Marie Le Barachois, Ambodifotatra 515 Sainte Marie Tel.: +261 34 48 441 98 info@saintemarie-tourisme.mg saintemarie-tourisme.mg

Office Régional du Tourisme de SAVA Immeuble Ny Havana - 208 Sambava ort.sava.bureau@gmail.com

Office Régional du Tourisme Sofia Lot 263 C Ankiririky Sud - 407 Antsohihy Tel.: +261 33 08 881 18 ort.sofia@yahoo.fr

Office Régional du Tourisme de Tamatave Immeuble de la maison de l’Information 83 Bd Joffre - 501 Tamatave Tel.: +261 20 53 912 14 accueil.ortt@moov.mg tamatave-tourisme.com

Office Régional du Tourisme de Tuléar Bazaribe - Ankilisoafilira - 601 Toliara Tel.: +261 32 51 296 56 ortu.tul27@yahoo.com tulear-tourisme.com

Office Régional du Tourisme de Vakinankaratra Bâtiment CGA - Rue Maréchal Foch Andranomadia - 110 Antsirabe Tel.: +261 33 14 532 76 ortvak@yahoo.fr antsirabe-tourisme.com

Office Régional du Tourisme Vatovavy Fitovinany Restaurant La Bonne Bouffe - en face gare FCE 316 Manakara ortv7v@gmail.com

EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES

AIRLINES

Embassy of Madagascar in Canada

Air Madagascar

03, Rue Raymond, Ottawa, Ontario, K1R 1A3 Tel.: +1.613.567.0505 Fax: +1.613.567.2882 ambamadcanada@bellnet.ca madagascar-embassy.ca

Embassy of Madagascar in China

2, Sam Li Tun Dong n°3 Pekin Tel.: 86 10 65 32 25 71 or 86 10 65 32 13 53 or 86 10 65 32 16 43 / Fax: 86 10 65 32 21 02 ambapek@yahoo.com ambamadbeijing@yahoo.fr

Embassy of Madagascar in Germany

Seepromenade 92 D-14612 Falkensee Berlin Tel: 0 33 22 23 14 30 Fax: 0 33 22 23 14 29 e-mail: infohttp://www.madagascar-consulate. org/embassy/symb.pngbotschaft-madagascar.de botschaft-madagascar.de

Embassy of Madagascar in France 4, Avenue Raphaël 75016 Paris Tel.: +33 (0)1.45.04.62.11 Fax: +33 (0)1.45.03.58.70 info@ambassade-madagascar.fr accueil@ambassade-madagascar.fr madagascar-consulate.org

Embassy of Madagascar in Mauritius Rue Guiot Pasceau - Floreal, Port Louis Tel.: 230 686 50 15 / Fax: 230 686 70 40 madmail intnet.mu

Embassy of Madagascar in Japan

2-3-23 Moko Azabu Minaco-Ku Tokyo 106-0046 Tel.: 813 34 46 72 42 / 3 / 4 Fax: 813 34 46 70 78 ambtyo@r5.dion.ne. jp or ambtyo@mb.kcom.ne.jp ambtyomd@mb.kcom.ne.jp

Embassy of Madagascar in South Africa 90 Tait Street - Pretoria 002 Tel.: 078 630 5311 / Fax: 086 535 5173 ambamad.pta infodoor.co.za

Embassy of Madagascar in the United States of America

2374 Massachussets Avenue N.W. - Washington D.C. 20008 Tel.: 1202 265 55 25 / 26 / 27 or 1202 494 62 87 or 001202 236 1137 Fax: 1202 265 30 34 / 1202 483 76 03 malagasy@embassy.org

France & Europe 73, Boulevard Haussman, 1er étage Escalier A 75008 Paris Tel.: +33 (0)8 92 70 18 19 (0.34€/mn) agence@airmadagascar.fr groupe@airmadagascar.fr airmadagascar.com China Rm 1508, Main Tower, G.D International Building 339 Huanshi Dong Road, Guangzhou, China Tel.: +86 20-2237 2919 Fax: +86 20-8336 5105 Madagascar 31, avenue de l’Indépendance BP 437 - 101 Antananarivo Tel.: +261 20 22 510 00

Air France France Tel.: 36 54 (0.34€/min) airfrance.fr Madagascar Tour Zital, 2ème étage, route des Hydrocarbures Ankorondrano - 101 Antananarivo mail.tana@airfrance.fr

Corsair France Tel.: 39 17 (0,34€/mn) Tel.: +33 (0)1 70 39 22 10 corsair.fr Madagascar Hall Gare Soarano, Analakely, 01, Avenue de l’indépendance Analakely 101 Antananarivo Tel.: +261 20 22 633 36 corsairfly@corsairfly.mg

Kenya Airways Kenya Contact Centre (24 hours) Tel.: +254 (0) 20 3274747 or +254 0711 02 4747 or +254 0734 10 4747 reservations@kenya-airways.com customer.relations@kenya-airways.com kenya-airways.com Madagascar Ario Madagascar Lalana Solombavambahoaka Frantsay, 77, Immeuble Marbour - Antsahavola BP. 3673 - 101 Antananarivo Tel.: +261 20 22 359 90 or +261 20 22 457 33 Fax: (261 20) 22 357 73

Air Mauritius Mauritius Head Office, Air Mauritius Centre, President John Kennedy Street, Port Louis Tel.: +230 207 7070 / Fax: +230 208 8331 contact@airmauritius.com airmauritius.com Madagascar Rogers Aviation Làlana Solombavambahoaka Frantsay, 77 Antsahavola BP: 3673 - 101 Antananarivo Tel.: +261 20 22 359 90 / Fax: (261 20) 22 357 73 ovah@rogers-aviation.com

Air Link South Africa Airways South Africa Head Office (Modderfontein) - No.3, Greenstone Hill Office Park, Emerald Boulevard, Greenstone Hill, Modderfontein - PO Box 7529, Bonaero Park, 1622, South Africa Tel.: +27 11 451 7300 / Fax: +27 11 451 7367 info@flyairlink.com saairlink.co.za Madagascar Rogers Aviation Làlana Solombavambahoaka Frantsay, 77 Antsahavola BP: 3673 - 101 Antananarivo Tel.: +261 20 22 359 90 / Fax: (261 20) 22 357 73

Air Austral Reunion Island 4, rue de Nice 97400 Saint-Denis Fax: +262 (0)2 62 90 90 91 reservation@air-austral.com air-austral.com

Air Seychelles Seychelles Air Seychelles Ltd. Head Office International Airport P.O. Box 386 - Victoria, Mahe Seychelles Tel.: +248 4 391 000 or +248 4 391031 webinfo@airseychelles.com airseychelles.com

Ewa Mayotte Mayotte Ewa-Air - Aéroport BP 452, 97615 Pamandzi Tel.: +262 (0)2 69 64 63 00 eservices@ewa-air.com ewa-air.com

Thank You The Madagascar National Tourism Board thanks Madagascar National Parks (MNP) and the Environment Programme Phase 3 Coordination Unit (UCPE) for their financial support. Published by the Office National du Tourisme de Madagascar, October 2014. Project design & management: Tsitohaina ANDRIAMANOHERA Texts: Thompson ANDRIAMANORO, Antoni RAZAFIMAHEFA, Tsitohaina ANDRIAMANOHERA, Madagascar National Parks Translation: Ruth RAKOTOMANGA, Emeline GALLISSIAZ Layout: Stève Herimanana RAMIARAMANANTSOA Project management: Maryse ALIDERSON, Daphné PARISOT, Emeline GALLISSIAZ, Karim RAKOTONDRASOA, Nika SEVEN RASOLONDRAIBE, Henintsoa RAMBINIMASINA Photo credits: Asniaina ANDRIANARIVOMANONJY, David BIOUX, Richard BOHAN, Jules BOSCO, Francky DOVAN, Stephano INTERTHINER, Hery LALAINA, Julie Larsen MAHER, Fihanka MISONGA, Karim NARI, Rivo RABARISOA, Finoana RADONIAINA, Henitsoa RAFALIA, Miandry RAKOTOSON, Christiane RAMONJISON, Christina RANDRIANARIMANANA, Asina RAZ, Hasina RAZAFINDRATSIMBA, Eric RAZAFIMBELO, Mamy Nirina RAZAFINDRAKOTO, Marcello SPADONI, Hasindranto Ndrianarimanana, Radonirina, CétaMada, Madagascar National Parks, Malagasy Tours, Momo Trek, TRANSCONTINENTS, ORT Analamanga. Printed in France by EDICOLOR

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