13 minute read
DINE
Tikka Meets Tacos
Indian-Mexican fusion is on the menu at South Salt Lake’s Tandoori Taqueria.
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The last time an Indian fusion restaurant from the Grand Staircase area of Southern Utah decided to open shop along the Wasatch Front, we got Curry Pizza—and my culinary worldview has never been the same. As I never thought this particular bolt of lightning would strike twice, I was a bit dumbfounded to read about the new Tandoori Taqueria (3540 S. State Street, 801-590-9473, thetandooritaqueria.com) location that recently came to South Salt Lake. Yes, we downtowners can finally enjoy delicious, Indian-inspired flavors within the fluffy embrace of buttermilk naan tortillas without making the trip down to Bryce Canyon.
Tandoori Taqueria first opened in Panguitch, which is where owner Ripple Desai calls home. She saw the restaurant as an opportunity to combine her Indian culinary heritage with her self-professed love of tacos. The restaurant made a name for itself as a contrast to the usual road-trip fare one might expect in the towns that border Southern Utah’s myriad state and national parks. Its consistently positive Yelp reviews were enough to earn the local eatery a spot on the Eat This, Not That list of best tacos in each state, along with a writeup for NPR. After six years of consistent growth, Desai made the 245-mile leap from Panguitch to South Salt Lake—and we’re so very glad she did.
From Curry Fried Chicken to Curry Pizza, I’ve never met an Indian fusion menu that didn’t rock my socks off. I think a lot of this comes from the versatility of traditional Indian cuisine; when you have a foundational flavor palate as diverse and exciting as that of India’s immersive regional variety, it’s hard not to whip up something tasty. What I love about Tandoori Taqueria is that it stays faithful to its primary influences while creating something new in the process. Yes, this is a place that will satisfy one’s craving for both traditional Indian food and tacos, but it’s also a place to get something completely unique.
The menu currently has six types of tacos that are served up in orders of two, four or six depending on how hungry you are. The menu mixes and matches traditional flavors from both Indian and Mexican arsenals, and adds tangy cabbage slaw to the mix for some complementary acid and texture. The end result is something familiar but unmistakably brand new.
For a good example of what I’m talking about, check out the Channa a la Verarcruzana ($12) tacos. Here you’ve got a hearty mix of chickpeas and lentils, which work well with a Mexican dish like tacos that is no stranger to legumes. However, where beans may play second fiddle in traditional Mexican tacos, they’re front and center here. When spiked with Desai’s signature sauce of tomatoes, peppers and other spices, however, it becomes quite clear that legumes can definitely carry a taco. I also have to say that those buttermilk naan tortillas are killer—soft and fluffy, while keeping all those taco fillings secure.
Another vegetarian option at Tandoori Taqueria is the phulkopir taco ($12), which is a take on the Bengali-inspired preparation of roast cauliflower. For my money, roast cauliflower is one of the best approaches to a vegetarian taco, and this preparation works considerably well—and it’s also not skimpy when it comes to heat. Both Mexican and Indian cuisines are fond of their chili peppers, so you can definitely expect your tacos to bite back just a tad.
On the more carnivorous side of the menu, you can’t go wrong with the pozole ($12), the beef and chorizo ($12) or the tandoori ($12). The menu describes the pozole as braised pork in a “merriment of spices,” and I can’t really think of a better way to describe the vibrant flavors that are packed within—it’s harmony and balance in taco form. The braise on the pork is fantastic as well. It’s tender, full-flavored and complements all those spices perfectly. It’s tough to pick a winner on a menu of triple A goodness, but this one just might edge out the others in my book.
The beef and chorizo presents another fine example of braising, and the chorizo ratchets things up with its own brand of special spiciness. The tandoori taco is perfect for those who prefer chicken on their taco; it turns out that tandoori grilled chicken and tacos get along famously.
Any fan of Indian and Mexican cuisine—or just cuisine in general—will feel right at home with a big plate of tacos from Tandoori Taqueria. I don’t know what the Southern Utah X-factor is, but I have been nothing but impressed with the talent that has been coming to the Salt Lake metro area from our neighbors to the south. I’ll always make a point to check out the original locations of Curry Pizza and Tandoori Taqueria when I’m checking out Bryce Canyon or Capitol Reef, but I’m also glad I don’t have to go as far when I want some truly inventive local cooking. CW
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OUTDOOR SEATING ON THE PATIO TUESDAY TRIVIA! 7-9 PM LIVE JAZZ Thursdays 8-11 PM on TAP on TAP A list of what local craft breweries and cider houses have
on tap this week
2 Row Brewing
6856 S. 300 West, Midvale 2RowBrewing.com On Tap: Feelin’ Hazy
Bewilder Brewing
445 S. 400 West, SLC BewilderBrewing.com On Tap: American Zwickelbier
Bohemian Brewery
94 E. Fort Union Blvd, Midvale BohemianBrewery.com
Bonneville Brewery
1641 N. Main, Tooele BonnevilleBrewery.com On Tap: Peaches & Cream Ale
Desert Edge Brewery
273 Trolley Square, SLC DesertEdgeBrewery.com On Tap: Fresh Brewed UPA
Epic Brewing Co.
825 S. State, SLC EpicBrewing.com On Tap: Club Lounge Belgian Ale
Fisher Brewing Co.
320 W. 800 South, SLC FisherBeer.com On Tap: Red Ale
Grid City Beer Works 333 W. 2100 South, SLC GridCityBeerWorks.com On Tap: Extra Pale Ale
Hopkins Brewing Co.
1048 E. 2100 South, SLC HopkinsBrewingCompany.com On Tap: Strawberry Zinfandel Sour
Hoppers Grill and Brewing
890 E. Fort Union Blvd, Midvale HoppersBrewPub.com
Kiitos Brewing
608 W. 700 South, SLC KiitosBrewing.com
Level Crossing Brewing Co.
2496 S. West Temple, South Salt Lake LevelCrossingBrewing.com On Tap: You-tah Coffee Uncommon
Moab Brewing
686 S. Main, Moab TheMoabBrewery.com On Tap: Bougie Johnny’s - Rose Ale
Mountain West Cider
425 N. 400 West, SLC MountainWestCider.com On Tap: Strawberry Shortcake Hard Cider
Ogden River Brewing
358 Park Blvd, Ogden OgdenRiverBrewing.com On Tap: Injector Hazy IPA
Policy Kings Brewery
223 N. 100 West, Cedar City PolicyKingsBrewery.com
Proper Brewing
857 S. Main, SLC ProperBrewingCo.com On Tap: Proper Beer - English Golden Ale
Red Rock Brewing
Multiple Locations RedRockBrewing.com On Tap: Baked Pastry Stout
RoHa Brewing Project
30 Kensington Ave, SLC RoHaBrewing.com On Tap: Grapefruit Back Porch Pale Ale
Roosters Brewing
Multiple Locations RoostersBrewingCo.com On Tap: Cosmic Autumn Rebellion
SaltFire Brewing
2199 S. West Temple, South Salt Lake SaltFireBrewing.com On Tap: Jenevere Gin Barrel Aged IPA
Salt Flats Brewing
2020 Industrial Circle, SLC SaltFlatsBeer.com On Tap: CorkScrew Hazy Pale Ale
Shades Brewing
154 W. Utopia Ave, South Salt Lake ShadesBrewing.beer On Tap: Blue Berry Blast Beer Slushie
Silver Reef
4391 S. Enterprise Drive, St. George StGeorgeBev.com
Squatters
147 W. Broadway, SLC Squatters.com
Strap Tank Brewery
Multiple Locations StrapTankBrewery.com Springville On Tap: PB Rider, Peanut Butter Stout Lehi On Tap: 2-Stroke, Vanilla Mocha Porter
TF Brewing
936 S. 300 West, SLC TFBrewing.com On Tap: Northern Lights Terpene IPA
Talisman Brewing Co.
1258 Gibson Ave, Ogden TalismanBrewingCo.com On Tap: El Norte: Mexican Style Lager
Toasted Barrel Brewery
412 W. 600 North, SLC ToastedBarrelBrewery.com
Uinta Brewing
1722 S. Fremont Drive, SLC UintaBrewing.com On Tap: Was Angeles Craft Beer
UTOG
2331 Grant Ave, Ogden UTOGBrewing.com On Tap: Son of a Peach
Vernal Brewing
55 S. 500 East, Vernal VernalBrewing.com
Wasatch
2110 S. Highland Drive, SLC WasatchBeers.com
Zion Brewery
95 Zion Park Blvd, Springdale ZionBrewery.com
Zolupez
205 W. 29th Street #2, Ogden Zolupez.com
Cold Fire
Two Pride-themed treats and the state’s new take on cold beer.
BY MIKE RIEDEL comments@cityweekly.net @utahbeer
On June 8 at 11 a.m., for the first time, a Utah DABC store—one in Taylorsville, to be specific—offered refrigerated beer to the state’s beer lovers. This is the second most momentous change to Utah’s state-run beer procedures since doing away with 3.2 suds in 2019. Warm beer has been a top customer complaint of DABC patrons for decades, and while this unprecedented and sudden change in policy is a welcome revision, I wouldn’t expect to see refrigeration units popping up in multiple DABC stores anytime soon, as most stores are not configured to accommodate them. The new Taylorsville store is located at 4455 S. 2700 West, and I suspect the beer sales from this location will increase significantly. Now on to this week’s craft beers.
Salt Flats - Rainbow Road: The brew appears a hazy color of light golden-yellow, topped by a solid finger-and-a-half of white froth that slowly fades. The aroma includes just enough peach to let you know it is there, with a slight kiss of spice almost like vanilla, which is strange for the style but isn’t bad. It is collectively quite naturalsmelling, almost like unripe peaches more than the juicy-sweet character of fruit fresh off the tree.
Taking a sip, there is a bit of tartness that tastes like unripe peaches and a touch of lemony lacto. There is also an earthen component, mildly grassy, that brings out a flavor of yogurt and some cereal graininess somewhat reminiscent of wheat. As the brew warms up, a bit of sulfur is evident across the back end, but it transitions into more of the wheat grain tartness and a bit of earthy peach. At times, the banana component mimics sweet lactose (of which there is none), creating balance to the lemony base. This is a light-bodied brew with a moderate amount of carbonation—light, easy-drinking and a nice interpretation of the style.
Overall: I really enjoyed the natural peach flavoring here that at times seemed to add its own level of tartness to the already present lemony lacto. Solid balance, with enough sweet cereal grain and banana flavor to keep this one very easy to drink. I would partake in this again.
Bewilder - El Fruti Boi: Pours a medium murky golden color, but clearer than the typical milkshake beers; a nice two-finger white head sits atop, receding to full-glass lacing. Guava, melon, mango and vanilla dominate the majority of the aroma.
I’d had a sample of this earlier before it had finished fermenting out, and thought that the guava had lost most of its sweetness; I guess that’s why you never make judgments on unfinished beer. The tropical fruits are nicely done, with guava, pineapple and notes of melon and peach, followed by a slight hint of grass and maybe some floral flavors from the hops. The fruits mix with the big vanilla creaminess, and that sweetness carries the beer all the way through to the end. A slight sweetness stays on the finish, but it still remains pretty dry for the style. There’s a medium, creamy mouthfeel, but while not as creamy as other milkshakes, it’s still delicious. Slight alcohol, nice carbonation and a fairly dry finish.
Overall: Another winner of a beer from Bewilder. This milkshake is a little less murky and creamy than others, but it still represents the milkshake name very well. As more high-point beers emerge, you can taste the evolution that’s happening at Bewilder as they pump out these delicious IPAs.
You won’t find either of these beers in DABC stores, but you will find them both cold at their individual breweries, and at various beer pubs around the valley, including Slackwater, The Bayou, Beer Bar Green Pig and Dick ‘n Dixies. As always, cheers! CW
MIKE RIEDEL
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Yum Yum Food Truck Gets a New Wrap
Recently, the Layton-based World Famous Yum Yum Food Truck (yumyumasianfoodtruck.com) fell victim to some hateful vandalism targeting the Filipino heritage of the truck’s operators. A few days after the story and photos of this terrible news went viral, Jordan Clarkson of the Utah Jazz offered to foot the bill for a new vehicle wrap. It’s one of those stories that makes your heart ache for the ignorant bullshit that targets our friends and neighbors on a daily basis, but any time one of these stories concludes with a happy ending—facilitated by one of our pro-NBA athletes, no less—it’s nice to remember that there are decent members of the community out there as well.
The Lakehouse Opens
If you’re in the market for a destination restaurant with arboreal views and a comfy, lakeshore atmosphere, then you’ll want to check out The Lakehouse at Deer Creek (5371 S. Highway 189, Heber, 435-210-7474, thelakehousedeercreek.com). Not only will The Lakehouse offer a unique dining environment, but it’s home to Chef Tamar Stanger, a local chef whose impressive culinary career has been focused on locally-sourced ingredients and seasonal innovations. The Lakehouse at Deer Creek is officially open for lunch and dinner, though it’s a good idea to book reservations in advance; Deer Creek tends to get pretty busy during the summer.
Cold Beer at New Liquor Store Location
A new state-run liquor store has opened up in Taylorsville (4455 S. 2700 West, 801-955-2100) and its refrigerated beer and spiked seltzer section has locals clamoring. It’s the first state-run liquor store in Utah that offers cold beer, and it sounds like this feature will become more common in the future. At the moment, it doesn’t sound like existing liquor stores will get refrigerated sections, but any new locations on the way will include a place for beer to get nice and frosty. It may seem like a small improvement in the way Utahns buy their brewskis, but who knows—maybe this portends a more lenient stance on alcohol from our elected beer nannies. Probably not, though.
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