VOL. 4 NO. 11 • NOVEMBER 2018 • HOME COOKING
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A Chef’s Ultimate Thanksgiving Feast P. 18
HOME COOKING
Flawless Bourbon Pecan Pie P. 67
20-PLUS HOLIDAY MEAL RECIPES
UTAH RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION P. 78 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 1
2 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 3
JOHN TAYLOR
contents
Home Cooking
10 Fab Five
44 Dish Wish
BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL
BY DEVOUR STAFF
Local chefs share legendary stuffings
15 Now That’s Home Cookin’ A holiday feast meant you had to pick, shell, peel & shuck BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON
18 Chef’s Potluck
12 local chefs share Thanksgiving recipes for the perfect meal BY AIMEE L. COOK & DARBY DOYLE
42 The Spread
Sundance Foundry Grill BY ANNA KASER
4 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
It’s no crime to be eclectic at Thanksgiving
51 Spare the Bird Enjoy all the flavors of the day, sans meat BY ANNA KASER
54 Time-Giving Chef Randall Curtis never quits serving BY AIMEE L. COOK
56 Devour This Recipe
Laziz Kitchen’s Garbanzo & Eggplant Fattet BY DARBY DOYLE
58 In-House Talent
73 Hostess Gifts We Love
BY DEVOUR STAFF
BY HEATHER L. KING
Pie-making genius from the next cubicle over
67 Pastry Passion
Kelly Greenwood’s recipe for Bourbon pecan pie BY HEATHER MAY
70 Divine the Right Wine
Wines to pair with an impossible meal BY DARBY DOYLE
Salsa, Honey, Coffee and Flowers, Oh My!
82 Amber Hues of Grind
Egg coffees of yesteryear BY JOHN RASMUSON
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 5
CONTRIBUTORS STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS EDITORIAL Editor Copy Editor Proofreaders Editorial Intern Contributors
JERRE WROBLE SARAH ARNOFF LANCE GUDMUNDSEN, WENDY WILBURN CAITLIN HAWKER SARAH ARNOFF, CAROLYN CAMPBELL, AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, MERRY LYCETT HARRISON, REBECCA ORY HERNANDEZ, JEN HILL, ANNA KASER, HEATHER L. KING, HEATHER MAY, JOHN RASMUSON, PAULA SALTAS
After starting out writing about beautiful homes and gardens in Utah, Aimee L. Cook now dabbles in subjects from food to human interest. A member of the Association of Food Journalists, she writes for several local publications.
Photographers SARAH ARNOFF, JOHN TAYLOR
PRODUCTION Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, SEAN HAIR, CHELSEA NEIDER
BUSINESS/OFFICE Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, ANNA KASER Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS
Writer and recovering archaeologist Darby Doyle highlights hip SLC as a cityhomeCollective contributor. She also blogs about boozy experiments at ABourbonGal.com.
MARKETING
Director of Events & Marketing SAMANTHA SMITH
CIRCULATION
Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO
SALES Magazine Advertising Director Newsprint Advertising Director Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
JENNIFER VAN GREVENHOF PETE SALTAS ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER ALEX MARKHAM, MIEKA SAWATZKI, JEREMIAH SMITH
Sarah Arnoff Yeoman is a freelance photojournalist who, for the past few years, has served as writer and copy editor for Devour. She is leaving our ranks for new opportunities out West but not before baking one final pie (see “In House Talent,” p. 62)
Cover photo: KUTV 2 “Chef Bryan” Woolley’s Brussels sprouts by John Taylor Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-575-7003 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
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Copyright 2018. All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
John Rasmuson spends his days trying to put the right words in the right order. He wrote a column for City Weekly for 12 years that won awards every now and then when he got the words just right.
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 7
From the Editor
ONLY the LONELY
I
t’s the final Thursday in November, and family and friends joyfully converge around a table decked out with Grandma’s white linen and Mom’s wedding china. Dad carves the turkey, Uncle makes a toast and the little kids assigned to sit at the card table start to fidget until the food is blessed and they can finally dig in to the delectable feast. Well, it might be that way for some but not all. A recent census study shows that more than a quarter of U.S. households (28.1 percent) are people who live alone (up from 17.1 percent in 1970). And how many of those singletons are invited to a Thanksgiving dinner? Cue Paul McCartney: “All the lonely people, where do they come from? All the lonely people, where do they all belong?” Thanksgiving makes it clear how we roll: either as part of a pack or as lone wolves. Lone wolves have their reasons. Family life ain’t what it used to be. There are any number of imperfectly blended families that make celebrating holidays together a hard sell. Even if you do have kinfolk you enjoy spending time with, they’re not always in a position to host a dinner. Having been a lone wolf myself, I learned some coping strategies. One of the more obvious paths is through service. That’s why I enjoyed reading Aimee L. Cook’s article in this issue (“Time-Giving”) about Randall Curtis, owner of Harbor Seafood & Steak, who prepares and serves meals to women at the Road Home shelter on a regular basis. He will be doing so on Thanksgiving and Christmas. “I share things with these women I don’t share with anyone else,” he says. “I’m very accepted.” Along the same lines, hospitals and animal shelters seek volunteers over the holidays. After you read to a newborn in the NICU or foster a chihuahua for the weekend, reward yourself with dinner and a movie at Brewvies, a great Asian or Indian meal (many places are open on T-day) or a fancier repast on Park City’s Main Street or at a ski resort. Guess who is usually working on Thanksgiving? Fellow lone wolves. Thanksgiving is also the perfect day to get out of town. You’ll have many national and state parks all to yourself on a day when most folks are at home cooking. Thanksgiving Day flights have lots of open seats, and airports seem eerily empty. As a lone wolf, I took pride in my independence. But I’ve also been immersed in the chaos and cacophony of big family gatherings, with all their boisterous drama. And to be honest, I liked having a pack better than being on my own. We humans just do better together than apart. If you can’t score an invite to a feast this year as a prodigal family member, maybe gather up your own gang of misfits for a feast that you yourself prepare (using any of the 20-plus sensational recipes in this issue). If you’re reading this magazine, you don’t need to be told that the dinner table is the best antidote for loneliness. ❖
—Jerre Wroble 8 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 9
Home Cooking
THE
STUFF LEGENDS OF
Wild rice, mushroom and berry stuffing at Stein Eriksen Lodge
Local chefs share their stuffing secrets BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL
10 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
COURTESY STEIN ERIKSEN
A
long with pumpkin pie and cranberry sauce, stuffing (or dressing) makes Thanksgiving the grand feast that it is. Advance preparations often include crumbling dry bread, preparing savory stock, chopping aromatics and assembling spices such as sage and poultry seasoning. But once you’ve gathered your ingredients, it’s mix, heat and serve. Simple! However, the chefs featured here take a few extra steps to make decidedly “un-simple” dressings. Their use of stuffing as a vehicle to bring together layers of flavor and complex ingredients argues in favor of making reservations for a Thanksgiving meal at their restaurants, which is also simple! Check out these delicious offerings:
Chef Zane Holmquist: Wild rice, mushroom and berry stuffing
Delectable Thanksgiving stuffing employs quintessential ingredients that vary depending on locale, explains Zane Holmquist, vice president of food and beverage operations and corporate chef for Stein Ericksen Lodge. “Stuffing ingredients in Hawaii vary from those in Maine,” he says. The stuffing he plans to create for this year’s Thanksgiving event at the iconic lodge combines two different recipes, “a variation of two selections of Americana,” he says. Holmquist is utilizing traditional American ingredients—blueberries and cranberries along with indigenous wild rice and wild mushrooms. His blended recipe also calls for traditional Southern cornbread and oysters along with wild rice pudding bearing a Northeastern Great Lakes flair. He’s incorporating ground duck this time around, but a possible meat variant would include equal parts ground chicken and ground pork. His assembled stuffing “is simple, but has some great textural pieces,” he says. “The idea of creating a stuffing casserole from wonderful ingredients is fun to do throughout the year.” Glitretind at Stein Eriksen Lodge 7700 Stein Way, Deer Valley 435-649-3700 SteinLodge.com Open Thanksgiving, Nov. 22, 11 a.m. to 7:15 p.m.
Chef Harvey Howard: Parmesan stuffing
Each year, diners and staff at Magleby’s in Springville anxiously await chef Harvey Howard’s signature stuffing. This creation highlights a holiday buffet that includes carved turkey, prime rib, housemade cranberry sauce and 15 side dishes. Howard’s stuffing bears a delicate crispness on top, hovering over layers of amazingly moist and delicious flavor. To cubed bread, he adds sautéed celery, onions, butter and fresh sage. The addition of parmesan cheese enriches the sumptuous and satisfying texture and flavor. The proper amount of chicken stock is laced throughout then added on top, and assures a tender moisture that is a Magleby’s trademark. Magleby’s 198 S. Main, Springville 801-370-1129 Magleby’s.com Open Thanksgiving, Nov. 22, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
COURTESY SNOWBASIN
Cornbread apple stuffing at Snowbasin
Chef Scott Sniggs: Cornbread apple stuffing
Located at the base of Mount Ogden, beautiful Earl’s Lodge, with its wraparound windows and panoramic view of the Snowbasin Resort ski runs, hosts its annual Thanksgiving feast. And executive chef Scott Sniggs is, once again, coming up with some special stuffing. Last year, it was apple sausage. This year, Sniggs is creating a cornbread stuffing with ingredients that include fresh apples, fresh cranberries and real butter along with freshly chopped sage. He adds corn bread and chicken stock before baking his delicious concoction to create “a nice crunchy top, then you can dig down to that pillowy moist stuff,” he says. The stuffing accompanies a turkey brined for two days in a molasses solution before being slow-roasted on Thanksgiving Day. Yukon gold mashed potatoes, fresh yams and a streusel-topped butternut squash round out Snowbasin’s Thanksgiving feast. Snowbasin Resort 3925 E. Snowbasin Road, Huntsville 801-620-1000 Snowbasin.com Open Thanksgiving, Nov. 22, 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 11
12 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
Home Cooking
DEREK CARLISLE
Two-bread stuffing with liver pâté at Bambara
Chef Nathan Powers: Two-bread stuffing with liver pâté
Chef Eric May: Herbed sourdough & turkey meat stuffing
Bambara 202 S. Main, SLC 801-363-5454 Bambara-SLC.com Open Thanksgiving, Nov. 22, noon to 6 p.m.
Blue Boar Inn 1235 Warm Springs Road, Midway TheBlueBoarInn.com 435-654-1400 Open Thanksgiving, Nov. 22, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
This year marks Bambara’s third year of Thanksgiving service. For his 2018 stuffing, executive chef Nathan Powers plans to combine crumbs from two breads—brioche and sourdough— to achieve the optimum texture. He fashions a delightfully flavorful stock from a mixture of foie gras, turkey livers and cognac. Further enhancing the flavor, “I like to add lots of aromatics—mushrooms, leeks, carrots, onion and celery,” he says. Powers piles this elaborate mixture into a baking dish, covers it for the majority of the cooking time, then pulls the cover off to let the top brown above the delightful moisture below. “The best parts are the meats—foie gras, bacon and turkey livers—the bread is just a vehicle,” he says.
Blue Boar Inn’s executive chef and general manager Eric May begins making his signature stuffing by dicing housemade sourdough French bread into half-inch pieces. He then braises turkey legs separately from the rest of the bird. He adds fresh herbs to the resulting stock, which he then uses to add moisture to the stuffing. Along with dark turkey meat, the herbed stock is the basis for the accompanying brown giblet gravy. May sautés flavorful celery, onions, carrots and garlic until the onions are translucent. He says he also adds more fresh herbs when combining all the ingredients before “putting it into hotel pans to bake it” to achieve a delightful crispness on top and delicious softness beneath. ❖
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 13
14 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
Home Cooking
NOW THAT WAS
HOME COOKIN’ BY MERRY LYCETT HARRISON
FELTON KIDDE
Food prep of yesteryear was all about picking, shelling, peeling and shucking
F
or some people, eating out is an occasional treat, thought about and planned for all week. For others, eating out is the norm. “What are you in the mood for?” a spouse or friend might ask as they scroll through Yelp seeking inspiration. It’s become so fashionable not to cook at home that the average household spends more than $3,300 annually on dining out, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. Even with the Food Network and a preponderance of cooking shows, it’s sad to say the number of Americans who enjoy cooking is on the decline, with Harvard Business Review research noting almost half say they hate to cook. Merry Not everyone grows up in a home where Lycett wholesome meals are routine. But for Harrison those who do, memories of the foods and preparation can last a lifetime. I was raised on farms where home cooking was a daily necessity. As kids, we loaded our red wagon with two 20-gallon steel containers and headed to the milk house to fill them from a giant, stainlesssteel vat where the day’s unpasteurized collection was stirring. We drank this milk with every meal—poured over oatmeal and Cream of Wheat for breakfast, in a glass to wash
down sandwiches for lunch, and served in soups, sauces, baked goods and puddings for dinner. We also used whipped or clotted cream on just about anything. I began cooking for the whole family early on, using skills I learned from my mother by standing on a chair beside her overlooking the stove. We raised Black Angus cows, and thus had a deep freezer full of meat. So our meals consisted of hearty stews, soups, chili con carne, pot roasts, burgers and casseroles until late winter when we were scraping the bottom. That’s when we ate kidney stew and oxtail soup, roasted beef heart and cold tongue sandwiches. Leftovers never went to waste, so yesterday’s roast would be ground with a hand grinder and added to seasoned gravy, topped with day-old mashed potatoes and baked in a shepherd’s pie. Biscuits, cornbread, egg noodles or potatoes accompanied almost every dinner. All vegetables came out of our garden. We ate what was in season and froze the rest. During the summer, we were always picking, shelling, peeling, shucking or cutting up produce. We canned spiced peaches and gallons of applesauce, and we made crabapple jelly and raspberry jam. Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 15
Mom was a terrific bread baker. Her cinnamon swirl was our favorite. When my three brothers started making food disappear faster than it could be made, I stepped up production of made-from-scratch chocolate chip and oatmeal cookies, brownies, apricot crunch, pineapple upside-down cake, apple crumble, Boston brown bread and pound cake. I always made my own pie crust and frosting. At Thanksgiving, my father would smoke our turkey to perfection with presoaked apple wood. The neck meat and giblets were added to the gravy. The meal seemed endless as we ate the remainders for days, but the soup was always the delicious finale. Ernest Barth was raised on a dairy farm in central Wisconsin where his family worked hard as subsistence farmers. They used Clydesdales to plough their fields instead of a tractor. The family raised and grew their own food. They also hunted and foraged in the woods. Foods had to be smoked, canned, cured, dried or put in the root cellar because they didn’t have electricity. His mom, who worked as a maid, was a terrific cook who made delicious cakes and pies filled with wild blackberries, raspberries and blueberries that Ernest picked. She baked bread, made fudge and caramel popcorn balls, and prepared heavenly hash, roasts and stews—all on her huge wood stove. They would shock and thresh their own oats and traded some of their milk for butter and cheese at the milk factory. She kept a store of sugar and a 20-pound sack of store-bought flour. Vendors from Raleigh and Watkins came by the farm to sell baking sundries such as baking soda and powder, vanilla, herbs, flavorings and notions. Their garden harvest included potatoes, squash, tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers and dill. They picked green beans from a large patch and sent them to the canning factory for a few extra dollars. Chickens provided eggs while hogs, cows, ducks, geese and guinea fowl provided the meat. Ernest added to the menu by hunting rabbit, squirrel, partridge and pheasant. Hunting deer in winter meant it 16 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
Vee KelseyMcKee’s mother made orange rolls with fresh orange zest as a Thanksgiving staple
MERRY LYCETT HARRISON
Ernest Barth: Goose or turkey was served with wild cranberry sauce, sauerkraut, pickles, potatoes and dressing
MERRY LYSETT HARRISON
Home Cooking
could be hung outside and stay frozen. On Thanksgiving, a goose or turkey was served with wild cranberry sauce, sauerkraut, pickles, potatoes and dressing. Family and friends from the far-flung farming community contributed baked desserts and green Jell-O with carrots. Vee Kelsey-McKee was raised on her family’s three acres in New Harmony, Utah. Her father had a productive garden and orchard with apricots, apples, pears and grapes. They kept a cow and pig as well as chickens for meat. Plus, the fall hunt provided venison. From an early age, Vee was in charge of weeding the garden. By the time she was 12, her mom had taught her to cook and help with canning, freezing and preserving food. They dried produce in a drying enclosure her father built that sat in the sun and featured pull-out trays. He also brought home fresh-caught trout that they chopped—skin and bones included— salted and stuffed into half-pint jars that preserved the meat like a can of tuna. Kelsey-McKee has rich memories of home cooking: Eating a simple lunch of fresh picked, lightly sautéed, baby beet greens with butter and a squeeze of lemon is one. On Sundays, her mother would prepare fried chicken by dredging the chicken, unskinned, in egg and flour, then searing each side in an electric frying pan. She’d turn the heat down so it slow cooked while they were at church. Her orange rolls made with fresh oranges and zest were a staple at Thanksgiving. Due to growing up on farm cooking, Kelsey-McKee continues to seek ways to improve her food quality. Today, she tries out foods from other cultures and makes her own cheese and yogurt. She has noticed more people in her circle who want to prepare food at home to avoid harmful or unwanted additives and to be assured of quality. It’s fun to eat out, but nothing beats the fresh taste of your own produce and meat. The question is, who has the time and skills to undertake homemade food preparation these days? At least we still have Thanksgiving to remind us to savor home-cooking. ❖
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Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 17
Home Cooking
CHEF’S Potluck Twelve chefinspired dishes for the grandest of Thanksgiving feasts COMPILED BY AIMEE L. COOK & DARBY DOYLE PHOTOS BY JOHN TAYLOR
E
very November, that great American feeding frenzy comes around. And each year, it involves two things: A plate full of amazing food that almost always elicits gratitude to the cooks involved. Secondly, an overwhelming desire to stretch out on the floor afterward even while our swollen tummies still crave more. It’s an American tradition that shows no sign of stopping. We can easily scarf down 3,000 calories at this dinner alone. Add on drinks, a bountiful relish tray and a slice of whippedcream-laden pie, and your total can edge up to 4,500, according to the industry group Calorie Control Council. We at Devour do not judge. In fact, we endorse this unrivaled feast because it involves family, friends, food and mirth. So, let’s make sure that it’s a grand occasion. Whether you’re an old hand at hosting your family’s extravaganza or if this is your first rodeo and you have no idea of what you’ve got yourself into, Devour is here to help you execute a resoundingly successful meal. To that end, we brought local chefs together for a Thanksgiving potluck. These culinary stars shared not only their hallmark dishes but also their recipes for our readers.
18 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
So, enjoy drinks and appetizers from High West’s Steve Walton and Michael Showers; a dry-brined turkey and gravy from Park City Culinary Institute chef Jordan Miller; traditional Greek stuffing from Manoli Katsanevas and Katrina Cutrubus—owners/chefs at Manoli’s; cheesy potatoes by Oak Wood Fire Kitchen’s Brandon Price; Brussels sprouts by KUTV 2’s Bryan Woolley; smoked parsnips from Handle/HSL’s Briar Handly; a molded gelatin salad by Amber Billingsley, pastry chef at Stanza and Current Fish & Oyster; aromatic Hyderabadi chicken dum biyani by Lavanya Mahate, owner/chef at Saffron Valley Indian Cuisine; cranberry dinner rolls with bourbon butter and classic red wine by University Marriott Thistle and Thyme’s Jason Talcott; and gingersnap ice cream sandwiches by Alexa Norlin of Normal Ice Cream fame. How perfect is that? You have in your hands a world-class T-day dinner. The recipes that follow were chef-created and food-writer tasted to great acclaim. So, let’s get started with a classic cocktail, one created by Steve Walton, High West Distillery’s friendly bartender.
Steve Walton, beverage director
Old Fashioned Cocktail Steve Walton High West Distillery
As beverage director at High West, Steve Walton oversees the bar operations at High West’s four locations. He is also the founder of the Utah chapter of the United States Bartenders Guild and competed in the USBG World Class Cocktail competition in 2016, where he was one of 12 competitors who made it to the Southwest regional finals held in Park City. His classic Old Fashioned is traditionally served in a short, round tumbler.
INGREDIENTS
“It’s the best classic cocktail because of the strong heat. It warms you up from the inside when you come in from the cold. It’s simple, great, easy—a little sugar, a little bitters. You also build the drink in-glass, which means you have less to clean up when you’re done.”
2 ounces High West Rendezvous Rye ½ ounce demerara sugar 2-3 dashes of Angostura bitters Orange/lemon twist garnish
PROCESS
Dissolve sugar with a little water in a rocks glass. Add two dashes of Angostura Bitters. Muddle until sugar is dissolved. Fill glass with ice cubes and add rye. Garnish with orange or lemon twists. —Compiled by Aimee L. Cook
—Steve Walton Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 19
Locally Sourced & Organic Ogden’s Best Mexican! 1479 E 5600 S South Ogden | 801.479.7717 www. mariasmexrestaurant.com
20 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
“As far as this ‘white-trash’ appetizer is concerned, we try to make it look pretty good. Some people think deviled eggs are antiquated—I don’t. If you aren’t a social person and don’t know of a good starter, then … deviled eggs. It’s a classic and a crowd pleaser. The hardest thing about it is not squashing the eggs. Plating tip: Use a dab of yolk mixture to fix the egg to the plate and add a sprig of dill.” —Michael Showers
Chef Michael Showers
Deviled Eggs
Chef Michael Showers High West Distillery Serves 12
Executive chef Michael Showers joined High West in 2018. After a stint as corporate chef and seafood specialist for Nicholas & Co. , Showers opened the DeJoria Center in Kamas in 2015, serving as both executive chef and food and beverage director. Now leading the team at High West Distillery, Showers is charged with pairing High West’s cuisine with their award-winning whiskeys. His spicy deviled eggs are just the right touch to whet your appetite, but enough to tide you over until the meal is served.
INGREDIENTS
1 dozen hard-boiled eggs 1 cup mayonnaise ¾ cup Dijon mustard 1 finely diced jalapeno 1 ½ teaspoons toasted and ground cumin 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 4 tablespoons malt vinegar 4 strips cooked bacon ½ cup jalapeño jelly (store-bought will do)
PROCESS
Separate yolks from whites and reserve whites on a single layer tray. In a mixer, place yolks, mayo, mustard, jalapeño, cumin, smoked paprika, salt and vinegar.
Mix on slow till all ingredients are incorporated and can pass through pastry bag. Place in bag. Cook bacon at 375 degrees for 7 minutes. Pull bacon and glaze with jalapeño jelly and cook for 3 minutes more. Gently pipe yolk mixture into whites just barely coming above the top. Once bacon has cooled, break or cut into little triangles and place 1 piece on each egg in the deviled mixture. Garnish with chive and paprika and enjoy. —Compiled by Aimee Cook High West Distillery 27649 Old Lincoln Highway, Wanship 435-649-8300 Highwest.com Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 21
Carved and ready for serving: Jordan Miller’s dry-brined turkey “This is a turkey recipe for the everyday man. The space, ease and deliciousness are the main reasons for doing it this way. No bucket is needed for wet brining, no space in the fridge is needed, no stock pot for deep frying.” —Jordan Miller
Dry-Brined Turkey & Gravy
Chef Jordan Miller Park City Culinary Institute Preparation for a 14-16 pound bird
An instructor at Park City Culinary Institute, award-winning chef Jordan Miller has opened acclaimed restaurants in Maryland, Delaware and Utah. Trained in Quito, Ecuador, at the University of San Francisco, Miller most recently managed the food and beverage operations of the Sky Lodge Hotel in Park City. Traveling extensively in the Americas, Jordan has an intimate knowledge of a number of ethnic cuisines. When it comes to picking out a Thanksgiving turkey, Miller notes that with turkeys under 16 pounds, figure 1 pound for every person, a ratio that factors in bone weight. For turkeys over 16 pounds, figure ¾ pound per person because larger birds have a higher meatto-bone ratio. For ample leftovers, he says, a safe ratio is 1 1/2 pounds per person no matter the size of the bird. 22 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
As for prepping the turkey, Jordan recommends dry brining for whole turkeys. Not only does it save space in the refrigerator, it concentrates flavor. Traditional wet brining will plump and add weight to your turkey by adding additional moisture to the flesh. While not a bad thing, he says, the added moisture is comprised of water and leads to a turkey that is a bit watered down. The result will be moist and juicy, but the taste will be lost in dilution. Dry brining helps the bird retain moisture while cooking without adding any extra liquid. The bird will absorb the salt, which denatures the protein and creates a more intense poultry flavor. The addition of baking powder to the dry brine also improves the quality of the skin because it changes the pH of the bird and aids in breaking down proteins. The baking powder combines with the natural juices of the bird and creates a layer of microscopic carbon dioxide bubbles on the skin causing it to brown and crisp more efficiently. From start to finish, plan four days with
about 10 minutes of work where you coat the bird with solution and place it on a rack. “The work is zero, but the time is significant,” Jordan says.
NOT-SO-TRADITIONAL DRY BRINE
Combine 1 cup of kosher salt with 4 tablespoons of baking powder in a bowl (adding baking powder to the salt mixture helps improve the texture of the skin). Completely dry your turkey with paper towels before applying the salt mixture. Generously sprinkle the salt mixture on all of the surfaces of the bird including the inside cavity. You want to evenly coat the bird in salt but not completely encrust it. You will have salt left over! Only use what you need to cover the bird; how much you use will depend on the size of each individual bird. Put your salted bird on a rack and allow to sit in the refrigerator uncovered or lightly covered in plastic wrap for 24-36 hours. Do not rinse the bird after dry brining.
If the skin is moist, lightly pat it dry with paper towels and allow to rest in the refrigerator for up to three days. The resting period is very important. It not only allows the baking powder to interact with the skin, it lets the salt do its thing and penetrate the meat, optimizing flavor.
COOKING THE BIRD
The key to delicious turkey is not overcooking and getting the whole bird cooked evenly. Oftentimes, the breast will overcook while waiting for the thighs to cook completely. You can fix this by loading the bottom tray of your oven with baking stones, baking steels or cast-iron skillets. These sit under your baking tray and focus very high heat from underneath, helping the legs of the bird cook through before the breast dries out. 1. Place your turkey breast-side-up on a V-rack set in a baking pan with edges that can collect juices. Allow to sit at room temperature for 1-2 hours so you’re not putting an ice-cold bird in the oven. 2. Preheat your oven loaded with baking stones, baking steels or castiron skillets to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow to preheat for at least 45 minutes to an hour, “charging” your baking stones with high heat. 3. Pat dry a wet-brined turkey or do nothing to a dry-brined turkey. 4. Transfer turkey on baking sheet into oven and place directly on baking stones. Immediately close the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 300 F. Roast the turkey until golden brown and the deepest part of the breast registers 150 F, roughly 3-4 hours total, depending on the size of your bird. (Note: Check the turkey after a few hours. If the skin is not browning the way you want it to, pump up your oven another 50 degrees to 350 F.) 5. When cooked, remove turkey from oven and allow to rest at least 30 minutes before carving. —Compiled by Jerre Wroble
Jordan Miller: Not only does dry brining a turkey save space in the fridge, it concentrates flavor
The key to good gravy? Stock, herbs and giblets
Chef Jordan Miller
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 23
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Thanksgiving Giblet Gravy
Chef Jordan Miller Park City Culinary Institute Makes 1 quart
Use soy sauce because “it is less salty and has more complexity. It’s more umami, mushroomy, fermented. No one will taste that, but they will say, ‘This tastes different, what did you do?’” —Chef Jordan Miller
Chef Jordan Miller brings 17 years of professional culinary and world experience to the Wasatch Region, where he works as a private chef, caterer, consultant and culinary teacher at Park City Culinary Institute. His approach to turkey gravy is to use giblets to make it rich in flavor and to bring on the herbs!
INGREDIENTS
Turkey neck, gizzards, trimmings and drippings 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 large onion, roughly chopped 1 large carrot, peeled and roughly chopped 2 ribs celery, roughly chopped 1 ½ quarts chicken stock 1 teaspoon soy sauce A few sprigs mixed herbs, such as fresh parsley, thyme or rosemary 2 bay leaves 3 tablespoons butter ¼ cup flour Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
PROCESS
Chop reserved turkey neck, gizzards and trimmings into 1-inch chunks with a cleaver. Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add turkey parts, onion, carrot and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned. Add stock, soy sauce, herbs and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 1 hour, then strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Add any drippings from the roast turkey, then skim off excess fat. You should have a little over 1 quart of fortified stock; if not, add water or more chicken stock to equal 1 quart. Discard solids and set stock aside. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Whisking constantly, add fortified broth in a thin, steady stream. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until thickened and reduced to about 3 cups. Season to taste with salt and pepper. —Compiled by Jerre Wroble Park City Culinary Institute 1484 S. State, SLC 801-413-2800 ParkCityCulinaryInstitute.com Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 25
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Greek Traditional Rice Stuffing
“This dish is pretty much the same as a dish that we both grew up eating. It is modern Greek meets traditional Greek. Don’t serve it in-bird, serve it next to bird. Very important.” —Manoli Katsanevas
Manoli Katsanevas & Katrina Cutrubus, Manoli’s on 9th Makes 6 servings
The fine-dining equivalent of an exuberant greeting of “opa!” followed with a shot of ouzo, Manoli’s is all about Greek hospitality. Chef Manoli Katsanevas and pastry maven Katrina Cutrubus have brought the comfort foods of Greece into the 21st century, combining traditional flavors and Old World ingredients with modern techniques and international flair, as is the case with this savory bread-free stuffing.
Owners/chefs Manoli Katsanevas & Katrina Cutrubus
INGREDIENTS
½ cup finely diced yellow onion 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 pound ground beef ¼ pound turkey or chicken gizzards ¼ cup tomato paste ¼ cup dry white wine 1 ½ cups chicken stock ½ cup long grain white rice ½ cup toasted and chopped walnuts ¼ cup toasted pine nuts 1 cup fresh parsley, chopped 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon cumin 2 teaspoons dried thyme salt and pepper to taste
PROCESS
In a large sauce pan over medium heat, sauté onion and garlic with a little olive oil for about 30 seconds. Add ground beef and gizzards, and cook until browned, breaking up the ground beef with the back of a spoon to crumble. Add tomato paste and stir until it evenly coats the meat mixture. Continue to stir, cooking until paste darkens and sweetens. Add wine and chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add rice, reduce to a low simmer, and cover the pan. Let cook for 5 minutes, stirring every few minutes to prevent sticking. Add all the remaining ingredients, stir to combine. Cover and cook until all the liquid is gone and absorbed by the rice, about 15 minutes. —Compiled by Darby Doyle
Greek traditional rice stuffing
Manoli’s 402 E. 900 South, No. 2, SLC 801-532-3760 ManolisOn9th.com Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 27
28 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
“The idea is to have enough cheese that it pulls on your fork when you lift it.” Asked if his hands were burning while holding the pot: “Oh, definitely. But we’re chefs. We’re used to it.”
Yukon Gold Aligot With Heber Valley White Cheddar Chef Brandon Price Oak Wood Fire Kitchen Chef Brandon Price
Serves 6-8 servings
When discussing with chef Brandon Price which dish he’d like to contribute, we agreed that no Thanksgiving meal is complete without mashed potatoes. Adapting a traditional French recipe of a luscious potato dish called aligot, Price subbed in local Heber Valley white cheddar cheese for the usual tomme or laguiole with delicious results. Bonus: Preparing this dish makes for a great arm workout with all the vigorous by-hand stirring required to achieve the desired “stringy” pulled-cheese effect.
INGREDIENTS
—Brandon Price
Yukon gold aligot with Heber Valley white cheddar
1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered 7 ounces cold salted butter (Price prefers Amish rolled butter), cut into ½-inch cubes ½ cup heavy cream 7 ounces Heber Valley white cheddar cheese, grated Salt to taste
PROCESS
Add potatoes to a medium pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer, and cook until potatoes are tender (about 10-20 minutes). A knife should easily pierce the potatoes if they are done. Drain. Meanwhile, heat the cream in a small saucepan until very warm (do not scald or simmer). Using a ricer, push the hot potatoes through the ricer back into the hot pot they were cooked in. Over low heat, use a heatproof spatula to move the potatoes around the pot for a minute or two so that all excess water evaporates. Add the cold butter to the potatoes a few cubes at a time, stirring continually until all butter is incorporated evenly. Keep stirring and add the warm cream in a steady stream. Keep stirring until the mixture is homogenous. Stirring vigorously, add the cheese a handful at a time. Keep stirring like you mean it until all the cheese is incorporated evenly and the spoon makes cheesy strings as you pull it away from the potatoes. Taste, and season with more salt if needed. —Compiled by Darby Doyle Oak Wood Fire Kitchen 715 E. 12300 South, Draper 801-996-8155 OakWoodFireKitchen.com Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 29
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“The truffles make it taste like you’re outdoors in the fall ... the sweetness of bacon, the bitterness of the Brussels sprouts … they just come together so nicely for Thanksgiving. The charm of this dish is that with minor adjustments, you can make it completely your own.” —Bryan Woolley
Bacon Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Black Truffles
Chef Bryan Woolley Cooking With Chef Bryan, KUTV 2 Serves 8
Chef Bryan Woolley
Bacon roasted Brussels sprouts with black truffles
One of Devour’s favorite food celebrities, Chef Bryan Woolley, contributed this streamlined Brussels sprouts dish for the feast. The balance of savory, crunchy and fragrant elements come together in a way that will convince even the most hesitant sproutsdenier to give them a try. Plus, who doesn’t love seeing something with black truffle on the menu? The dish he chose to serve the sprouts in was his great-grandmother’s. When she died, it was given away to Deseret Industries. Years later, against all odds, he managed to find it again.
INGREDIENTS
½ pound bacon 1 pound Brussels sprouts 1 tablespoon freshly minced garlic 1 small onion, sliced 1 cup slivered almonds 1 teaspoon black truffle, finely chopped Salt and pepper to taste
PROCESS
• Preheat oven to 400 degrees. • Wash, trim off tough ends and quarter the Brussels sprouts, removing any leaves that are old or wilted. Set aside. • Slice the bacon into small bite-sized pieces. Fry in a large frying pan until cooked through and crispy. • Add the prepared Brussels sprouts to the bacon, as well as the minced garlic, sliced onion and slivered almonds. Sauté for about 2 minutes in the rendered bacon fat. • Transfer the brussels sprout mixture to a baking dish and place it in the oven for 20 minutes or until the edges of the Brussels sprouts begin to caramelize. • Remove from the oven and carefully fold in the finely chopped black truffles. Return to the oven for 2 minutes. • Remove from the oven, salt and pepper to taste, serve and enjoy! —Compiled by Darby Doyle CookingWithChefBryan.com Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 31
Smoked parsnips with poached pears and roasted beets
Smoked Parsnips With Poached Pears & Roasted Beets Chef Briar Handly Handle and HSL Serves 10
With an emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients at the fore, both the original Handle Park City and sister spot HSL in downtown Salt Lake keep customers happy while also supporting a bevy of local producers, garnering chef Briar Handly a long list of accolades, “Best of” awards and national media recognition. Adding yet another rare feather to his culinary cap, Handly was one of five Park City chefs invited to prepare a meal at the historic James Beard House in New York City this past September. This smoky and savory root vegetable side featuring distinctive fall 32 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
flavors is an adaptation of the dish he presented at the prestigious event. “Fall and Thanksgiving scream the changing of seasons to me with the departure of tomatoes, corn and summer squash and the arrival of root vegetables and hearty winter squashes,” he says. “I developed my parsnip ‘bacon’ recipe to offer vegetarian guests a way to enjoy a root vegetable treated and prepared just like bacon.”
INGREDIENTS
6 parsnips, washed and cut into thick rounds 6 d’Anjou pears, peeled, medium diced and placed in acidulated water to prevent browning 8 cups (½ gallon) apple cider 2 cups maple syrup 1 cup sherry vinegar handful fresh thyme 3 bay leaves
PROCESS
• Place all ingredients except for pears in a stainless steel container that will fit in your smoker. • Ensure the parsnips are submerged in liquid then cover the pan with tin foil. Poke a few holes in the foil to allow a bit of smoke in. • Fire up the smoker with fruit wood and smoke the parsnips for 2½-3 hours at no more than 250 degrees. • Strain off apple cider mixture into a mediumsized saucepan and place pears in the pan with the cider. Move smoked parsnips to a heavy-bottomed saucepan and reserve at room temperature until just before serving. • Poach pears slowly over low heat until tender. • Remove pears using a slotted spoon and set aside to cool at room temperature. • Reduce remaining liquid over medium heat to a syrupy consistency. • Just before serving, add a little bit of olive oil to smoked parsnips. Caramelize over medium heat until warmed through. • While the parsnips are smoking, roast the beets (recipe below) and prepare the candied seeds (recipe to the right).
ROASTED BEETS
6 large mixed-color beets, washed with tops removed ½ cup maple syrup ½ cup apple cider vinegar 1 cup water handful fresh thyme 3 bay leaves
“Parsnips are versatile, underutilized. Treat them like a protein and let them shine. It all has to do with balance.” —Briar Handly
PROCESS
• Place all the ingredients in a roasting pan, cover with foil and roast at 400 degrees for a least 1 hour. Check after an hour to see if the beets are tender by poking with a fork. • Remove the beets from the oven, uncover. Cool in the liquid until safe to touch. • Strain the liquid off the beets and reserve. • Peel the beets and discard the skin. Cut the beets into ½-inch cubes and place in a bowl, season with the reserved beet liquid and salt to taste.
CANDIED SEEDS
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds 2 tablespoons chia seeds 2 tablespoons poppy seeds 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds, finely chopped 1 cup simple syrup (½ cup water and ½ cup granulated sugar) Salt to taste
PROCESS
• To a small saucepan add all ingredients except for salt. Bring to a low boil. • Cook seeds in the simple syrup until slightly coated yet still loose. • Strain seeds through a fine mesh strainer (or chinois) and reserve the syrup. • With seeds still in the chinois, plunge directly into a fryer set at 300-degrees and cook for about 3 minutes or until seeds stop “dancing” in the oil. • Remove seeds and place them on a lint-free napkin-lined sheet tray to dry, then season with salt while still hot.
Chef Briar Handly
TO ASSEMBLE THE DISH
Mix together the smoked parsnips and the reduced parsnip and pear poaching liquid in a large bowl. Season with salt, sherry vinegar and lemon juice to taste. Top with sliced poached pears, roasted beets and candied seeds. —Compiled by Aimee L. Cook and Darby Doyle Handle 136 Heber Ave, Park City 435-602-1155 HandleParkCity.com
HSL 418 E. 200 South, SLC 801-539-9999 HSLRestaurant.com
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 33
Helly Jelly Salad
“The name ‘Helly Jelly’ came from being at a friend’s party and when I brought it in to serve it, the salad began violently jiggling. One person at the table started shouting, ‘It’s helly jelly!’ The name stuck.”
Amber Billingsley Pastry chef at Stanza and Current Fish & Oyster Serves 12
—Amber Billingsley
A few years ago, Amber Billingsley was featured in a Devour story about “friendsgiving” potluck traditions, of which she’s been both a host and much-coveted guest of many. One dish she described is full of heart-dropping nostalgia: layered gelatin “salad.” “I absolutely love everything about Thanksgiving,” says Billingsley, who looks forward to any excuse to make this layered bit of jiggly joy. Billingsley recommends assembling the layers in the mold a day before the big dinner so the gelatin has plenty of time to set. If transporting, wait until you’re at the destination to invert onto a festive platter for serving.
INGREDIENTS
Raspberry purée 2 cups fresh or frozen raspberries, thawed ¼ cup granulated sugar Juice of 1 lemon
CRANBERRY-RASPBERRY GELATIN LAYER 3 ½ cups cranberry juice cocktail ½ cup granulated sugar 3 envelopes Knox gelatin (3 tablespoons) 1 cup raspberry purée 1 pint fresh raspberries
RASPBERRY CREAM LAYER
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk 2 envelopes Knox gelatin (2 tablespoons) 1 cup cold water ½ cup raspberry purée 1 cup boiling water
OPTIONAL GARNISHES
Pecan halves Fresh raspberries Piped whipped cream 34 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
PROCESS RASPBERRY PURÉE
Combine all ingredients in small saucepan. Stir over low heat until mixture just comes to a simmer. Strain into a bowl, pushing to extract the solids, but leaving seeds behind. Scrape bottom of strainer.
CRANBERRY-RASPBERRY GELATIN LAYER
• Very lightly oil a metal decorative mold. Set aside in refrigerator. • In a 2-quart saucepan measure 1½ cups of cranberry juice. Sprinkle gelatin over juice and let soften for 5 minutes. Add sugar. • Very gently heat juice, sugar and gelatin over medium heat, stirring until gelatin is dissolved and mixture is hot but not boiling. Turn off heat. • Stir in remaining juice and raspberry purée. • Set saucepan over an ice bath, stirring occasionally until cool, and just
starting to thicken. Gently stir in fresh raspberries and pour into mold. • Put in refrigerator to set. When the gelatin is set but still sticky to the touch, start the raspberry cream layer. This will take a couple of hours.
RASPBERRY CREAM LAYER
• Pour 1 cup cold water in a 2-quart sauce pan. Sprinkle gelatin over water and soften for 5 minutes. • In a separate saucepan or kettle bring 1 cup water to a boil. • Add raspberry purée and sweetened condensed milk to the softened gelatin, then slowly stir in the boiling water. Stir until everything is nice and smooth. • Set aside over an ice bath and stir occasionally until cool and starting to thicken. • Carefully pour over set cranberry raspberry gelatin, smooth the top. Cover with plastic film and put in the refrigerator. Let set at least 8 hours or overnight.
Pastry chef Amber Billingsley
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warm & bright Call now for reservations
COTTONWOOD 6405 South 3000 East 801-944-8746
TO UN-MOLD FOR SERVING
• Fill a large bowl with warm water. Immerse mold into water up to the rim for 5-8 seconds. • Take out of water, pat mold dry, and give it a little wiggle to loosen it. • Set a cold platter over the top and invert. Give it a gentle shake and then slowly lift off the mold. If it doesn’t work the first time, don’t despair, just repeat the process. • Once it is on a pretty platter, decorate any way you want. Amber likes fresh raspberries, piped rosettes of whipped cream and pecan halves. —Compiled by Darby Doyle
Stanza Italian Bistro & Wine Bar 454 E. 300 South, SLC 801-746-4441 StanzaSLC.com
Current Fish & Oyster 279 E. 300 South, SLC 801-326-3474 CurrentFish AndOyster.com
DOWNTOWN 680 South 900 East 801-533-8746
EVENT RESERVATIONS 801-944-8746 events@triodinning.com
Savor the Season with a gift of good taste!
NOW ACCEPTING HOLIDAY PARTY RESERVATIONS TIFICATES FT CER I G | CATERING
204 E. 500 S. SLC Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 35
Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani
“This is a festive dish for any occasion. Rice is such a staple. It’s a go-to, and it’s not just plain, it’s flavorful. This is a onepot dish that is great for a potluck.”
Owner/chef Lavanya Mahate Saffron Valley Indian Cuisine Serves 12
It’s obvious that Lavanya Mahate is living her passion for Indian cuisine. With roots in southern India, the mother of two immigrated to the United States in 2001 in search of the American Dream. Now operating five eateries and a culinary school, you could say she is living that dream. Biryanis are complex mixed rice dishes that likely originated in Persia and can now be found throughout India and much of South Asia. But not all are created equal. Hyderabad, as the capital city of the state of Telangana in the south of India, boasts one of India’s most famous biryanis, one that blends the culinary traditions of the royal Mughal kitchen with those of the Nizam monarch. As such, it is said to be the rice of royals. Dum refers to the cooking process whereby the meat and vegetables are cooked over a low heat in a tightly sealed clay or brass pot that allows spices to unfold while keeping the meat juicy and savory. Mahate’s biryani uses basmati rice that becomes golden with the wide-ranging spices used in her dish; meats such as chicken and goat; and garnishes such as fresh cilantro, fried onion and mint. A dab of raita—yogurt cucumber sauce—cools and completes the dish.
36 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
—Lavanya Mahate
Owner/chef Lavanya Mahate CHICKEN MARINADE INGREDIENTS
2 pounds skinless boneless chicken thighs 2 tablespoons ginger garlic paste 2 teaspoons red chile powder 1 teaspoon turmeric powder 2 teaspoons salt 1 bunch cilantro leaves 1 bunch mint leaves 2 green chile (serrano) peppers 3 cloves 2-inch cinnamon stick 3 green cardamom pods ¼ teaspoon black peppercorns 1 cup fried onions 1 cup plain yogurt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 teaspoons garam masala powder
TO MARINATE CHICKEN
• Mix ginger garlic paste, red chile powder, turmeric powder and salt. • Blend cilantro leaves, mint leaves and green chiles with 2 tablespoons of water. Add this green paste (masala) to the marinade. • Add cloves, cinnamon stick, whole cardamom pods, black peppercorns and crushed fried onions. • Add beaten yogurt, oil, lemon juice and garam masala to the marinade and mix well. • Cover chicken with mixture and refrigerate for 1-2 hours.
RICE INGREDIENTS
2 pounds basmati rice 3 cloves 2-inch cinnamon stick 3 green cardamom pods 1 teaspoon salt
TO PREPARE THE RICE
• Wash the basmati rice and soak it in water for 20 minutes. • Fill a cooking pot three-quarters full with water. Add cinnamon sticks, cloves, cardamom pods and salt to the water. • Bring it to a boil. • When the water starts boiling, add the soaked rice to it. • Cook the rice for about 8 minutes until it is threequarters done. • Strain the rice in a colander and keep aside.
Hyderabadi dum biryani: the rice of royals
DUM SEASONING INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons ghee 2 tablespoons cilantro leaves 2 tablespoons mint leaves 2 tablespoons fried onions 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons saffron-flavored milk (soak 10 strands of saffron in 2 teaspoons hot milk)
DUM COOKING PROCESS
• Smear 1 tablespoon ghee over the bottom of a cooking pan. • Spread half the marinated chicken evenly on the bottom of the pan. • Add half the rice and cover chicken with it. • Sprinkle the rice with half of the cilantro leaves, mint leaves and fried onions. • Also sprinkle half of the lemon juice and saffron milk all over the rice. • Repeat with the remaining chicken, rice and garnishes. • Make an elastic dough with 1 cup all-purpose flour, ½ cup water and ½ teaspoons salt. Roll out the dough into a thin disc and seal the edges of the lid of the cooking pan tightly. Or use
aluminum foil to seal the pan and the lid. • Slow cook biryani over very low heat for 1 hour. Carefully remove the lid. • Garnish biryani with more fried onions, cilantro. • Serve with raita.
INGREDIENTS FOR YOGURT CUCUMBER RAITA 2 cups plain yogurt 1 cucumber, seeded and chopped finely 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper powder 1 teaspoon roasted cumin powder 1 tablespoon cilantro leaves, chopped
TO MAKE RAITA
• Mix all ingredients and refrigerate for an hour before serving. —Compiled by Aimee L. Cook Saffron Valley Multiple locations SaffronValley.com Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 37
Pepita & Cranberry Wheat Rolls With Bourbon Butter
Wheat rolls with bourbon butter
Executive chef Jason Talcott Marriott Thistle & Thyme Makes 24
Jason Talcott is the enthusiastic chef at the Marriott University Park, which recently remodeled and rebranded its restaurant, Thistle & Thyme, and Wakara Bar. Talcott and his team are working to establish an East Bench “go-to”—a gathering spot for Geeks Who Drink, Paint Nite events, wine pairing/education, “paws on the patio” and Viva la Diva drag shows. Talcott is a current Army Reservist, former chef to secretaries of defense William Cohen and Donald Rumsfeld, and has competed on Guy’s Grocery Games. The restaurant and bar team is headed by Miles Broadhead who brings experience at Bambara, Alemexo and Bistro 222.
“It’s super simple, based on white dinner roll. We wanted pumpkin, but not pumpkin spice! The pumpkin seeds and dry seeds give it a Thanksgiving-y taste. Use molasses to keep the rolls from being overly sweet so that the butter can be the star of the show.“ —Jason Talcott
As for wine, Talcott chose a 2015 premier cuvee Archery Summit Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley. Available in Utah liquor stores, Talcott says this wine has “earthy, volcanic ash undertones with fall fruit. It also has notes of cinnamon, blood orange, cranberry and dried cherry—it speaks well of fall. It holds up well to roast poultry, sage, spice and the deep Thanksgiving flavors.”
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons active dry yeast (2 packets) ½ cup water, 110 degrees ⅓ cup molasses 1 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons flax seeds ¼ cup butter, melted 1¾ cups water, 110 degrees 1½ cups rye flour 1½ cups whole wheat flour 3-4 cups all-purpose flour ⅓ cup dried cranberries ⅓ cup pepitas (pumpkin seeds), plus extra for topping ⅓ cup sunflower seeds, plus extra for topping 38 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
PROCESS
• Preheat oven to 400 degree Fahrenheit. Stir yeast, ½ cup water and molasses together in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with dough hook. Let it actuate until foamy, about 10 minutes. • Add salt, flax seeds, melted butter, 1¾ cup additional water, rye flour and whole wheat flour. Beat until smooth. • With mixer on low, slowly add 3 cups all-purpose flour. Turn mixer up to medium high and knead for 8-10 minutes until smooth and elastic,
adding additional flour as necessary. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface and knead in pepitas, sunflower seeds and cranberries. • Let the dough rise in an oiled bowl for 1 hour or until doubled. • Shape the dough into rolls and let rise for 1 additional hour. • Mist with water using a spray bottle and sprinkle with any remaining seeds for topping. Bake for 30-40 minutes, misting the oven with water twice in the first 10 minutes for a crunchier crust.
Chef Jason Talcott
NOW ACCEPTING RESERVATIONS FOR YOUR HOLIDAY PARTY
(801) 466-9827 HARBORSLC.COM 2302 E PARLEY’S WAY SLC, UT MAPLE BOURBON BUTTER INGREDIENTS
1 pound quality salted butter (Plugra or Kerrygold) 1 cup bourbon (Old Crow is great, save the High West for d rinking) 2 tablespoons real maple syrup
PROCESS
• Soften 1 butter for 3 hours at room temperature • Reduce 1 cup bourbon to 2 tablespoons, cool • In a mixer or with hand mixer whip soften butter, bourbon reduction and maple syrup until incorporated and “fluffy” but not over mixed. • Chill to set then remove 20-30 minutes before needed • Apply in generous amounts to warm rolls! —Compiled by Jerre Wroble Thistle & Thyme Salt Lake City Marriott University Park 480 Wakara Way, SLC 801-581-1000 ext. 2119 Marriott.com Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 39
Gingersnap Ice Cream Sandwich
This ice cream sandwich is “taking dessert to the next level. If you make this ahead of time and freeze, you can reduce the stress of making it on the day of your meal.”
Owner/pastry chef Alexa Norlin Normal Ice Cream Serves about 10 sandwiches
Utahns are famously fanatical about ice cream. So, it seems fitting that pastry chef Alexa Norlin (formerly at Current and Handle PC/HSL) chose to share a version of the superlative ice cream sandos she serves at her wildly popular soft-serve ice cream truck, Normal, combining the spice-forward flavors of fall. Plan to make these treats in advance and keep frozen until ready to serve, saving crucial room in the oven on pie day.
—Alexa Norlin
INGREDIENTS
¾ cup unsalted, room-temperature butter 1½ cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt ⅓ cup plus 1½ tablespoons molasses 1 whole large egg 1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon ground ginger ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons baking soda
DIRECTIONS
• Cream the butter, sugar and salt in a stand mixer with paddle attachment until light and fluffy. • Add molasses, mix well, scrape down sides of the bowl. • Add egg, mix well, scrape down sides of the bowl. • Combine all dry ingredients in a separate bowl, sift together. • With the stand mixer on lowest setting, slowly add the dry ingredients to bowl of stand mixer and mix until fully combined. • Cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 hours. • Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. • Once chilled, scoop cookie dough and shape into about 20 2-tablespoon balls. • Place onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. • Bake at 325 for 10-12 minutes. You want the middle of the cookies to still look puffy. When you remove from the oven, smack the sheet tray down on a surface and the cookies should deflate. 40 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
Gingersnap ice cream sandwich • Let cool for 5 minutes, then further cool on a rack to room temp. If assembling immediately, freeze cookies for at least 30 minutes before sandwiching with ice cream. Otherwise, the cookies may be stored in freezer zip-top bags or an airtight container for up to one week.
CREAM CHEESE ICE CREAM INGREDIENTS
2¼ cups heavy cream 4 cups whole milk 1½ cups sugar 1½ teaspoons salt ½ cup glucose or light corn syrup 1 2/3 cups softened cream cheese 1 teaspoon xanthan gum (available in the baking section of most supermarkets)
DIRECTIONS
• Combine heavy cream, whole milk, sugar, salt and glucose in a heavy pot, bring to a simmer (stirring constantly so the dairy does not burn). • Remove from heat, pour into an ice bath (one large bowl filled 2/3 with ice and 1/3 with water, a smaller bowl on top of the ice water so the base can cool quickly). • Once cooled, combine ice cream base with xanthan gum and cream cheese in blender or use a stick blender. Blend until fully smooth (can do in batches if needed to prevent splashing). • Once blended, let the base chill in the fridge overnight (this is very important!) • Spin ice cream base according to manufacturer’s instructions using
Owner/ pastry chef Alexa Norlin
a store-bought frozen bowl mixer, Kitchen Aid ice cream bowl attachment or even dry ice. • Once the ice cream is finished spinning, transfer to a freezer safe container with airtight lid. Freeze uncovered for 1 hour if assembling immediately. • For longer storage, add lid after onehour cooling. Before assembling, allow ice cream to soften slightly at room temp to aid spreading between the cookies.
ASSEMBLE THE SANDWICHES
• Remove ice cream and cookies from freezer, divide ice cream equally between the cookies and sandwich between cookie pairs. • Place sandwiches back in freezer for at least four hours. If not serving within 4-6 hours from prep, wrap each sandwich individually in plastic film. May be stored wrapped in an airtight container in the freezer for up to two weeks. ❖ —Compiled by Darby Doyle Normal Ice Cream 525 Trolley Square, SLC 385-800-1367 Normal.club Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 41
Home Cooking
Relaxing resort ambiance served with every meal at Sundance’s Foundry Grill
the
Spread Sundance Foundry Grill
W
ho wouldn’t want to make themselves at home along the slopes of Mount Timpanogos? Fall and winter here are magical, affording close proximity to wildlife and nature’s quietude along with dramatic scenery as mountain foliage changes hues. Nestled in these autumnal canyons sits Sundance Resort, a place recognized for its rustic
42 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
BY ANNA KASER PHOTOS BY DEREK CARLISLE
yet classy style in all things related to food, lodging and outdoor activities. And, apropos of this bucolic backdrop, the resort’s Foundry Grill, along with its hearty seasonal cooking, celebrate the pioneer tradition. A foundry is a workshop for casting metal, and as such, the Foundry Grill’s rustic walls are covered with remnants of metal farm equipment. The dining
room’s tables and chairs appear to have been carved from a nearby felled tree. Large windows allow diners to gaze out on the aspen-covered grounds. After a meal of steaks, classic burgers, Utah trout or elk osso bucco, visit the resort’s glass-blowing studio to watch artists at work. Circled by trees, the Foundry Grill’s homey patio with fire pits and chairs is
An aspen grove beckons diners
Mountain dining for outlaws and horse whisperers
Metal tools celebrate Utah’s pioneer tradition
just the place for late-night conversation and stargazing (though at this time of year, it might be a bit chilly to linger outside for long). Notably, though, late November is the perfect occasion to visit as the Foundry Grill offers a full Thanksgiving buffet from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., featuring chef Alex Izatt’s take on classic turkey, cranberry, stuffing, rolls, potatoes (in various forms)
and the not-so-classic seafood table, roast beef and other meat choices. Later in your meal, choose from a selection of pies and cakes. ❖ Sundance Mountain Resort 8841 N. Alpine Loop Road, Sundance 866-932-2295 SundanceResort.com Open Thanksgiving, Nov. 22, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Enjoy wines from the Sundance wine label
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018 43
Home Cooking
D IS H WISH
Chicken liver pâté appetizer
It’s not a crime to be eclectic at Thanksgiving BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
—By Jen Hill
44 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
DEREK CARLISLE
W
hat does the Norman Rockwell painting of your traditional Thanksgiving dinner look like? Is there an unusual twist at your table, an odd dish that your family insists on including each year, even though it doesn’t quite fit? Grocery-store shelves might be packed with all the staples—stuffing mix, green beans, cream of mushroom soup, marshmallows, stacks of canned pumpkin and cranberry sauce—but these items certainly don’t cover the full extent of how America, with its 325 million citizens, celebrates Thanksgiving. The fourth Thursday in November finds us sharing not only classic standbys but unique-yet-delicious sides, main dishes and desserts. We’ve checked in with a few chefs, home cooks and staff members to discover dishes that possess a novel cultural nod, or a tradition, honoring ancestors, cultures and ethnicities. In a broader sense, the traditional meal of turkey, stuffing and mashed potatoes has no choice but to evolve into “the new American Thanksgiving.”
Liver It Up!
David Barboza, owner/chef at Table X Table X, a fresh and contemporary approach to fine dining in Millcreek, boasts a backyard garden and fresh fixings like housechurned butter and daily-baked hot and rustic loaves. The restaurant was created off the backs of three culinary homies, one of whom is David Barboza, who shares one his own family Thanksgiving traditions. While most of the meal is rather standard, he says, snacks and hors-d’oeuvres—including cheeses, meats, pickles and crackers—stave off hunger during meal preparation. The highlight of this pre-dinner “meal” is his mother’s chickenliver pâté, studded with sliced black olives and set on a silver platter with buttery crackers. Visually appealing to him, Barboza admits that as a youngster, as soon as it was set on the table, he would consume at least a third of the dish before dinner. Even now, Barboza continues to prepare this savory prelude every Thanksgiving. —By Jen Hill TableXRestaurant.com
JENNY NELSEN
Only in Utah: Funeral potatoes for T-Day
Switch out the green bean casserole for Ping Tung eggplant
Eggplant From the Garden
Heather Peeters, urban farmer/ owner of Solstice Spices Heather Peeters and her family love to cook. If you were to question this claim, glance at her work on the stunning Solstice Spices Instagram feed, where being a serious “farm-to-slow-cookfoodie” is apparent. The family passion literally grew from several urban gardens around various local backyards to a more centralized location, allowing them to sell produce and host farm-totable events. Solstice Spices’ organic produce is sold at farmers markets along with their unique spice blends, of which Garlic Herb has a loyal cult-like following.
HANS FLETCHER
Family Fave: Funeral Potatoes
This Thanksgiving, with new garden high tunnels installed, Peeters says she hopes to extend the growing season enough to harvest eggplant past the first frost of mid-October, allowing them to include an unusual but favorite family farm-to-table side dish, Ping Tung eggplant. Simmered in coconut milk with basil, Ping Tung eggplant is, as described by Peeters, “the perfect balance of sweet, savory, tangy, creamy and spicy.” Going along with the growing theme, Peeters always likes to bring something from the garden to the table. This Thanksgiving, consider fending off the turkey-day tryptophan-induced coma with these unusual side dishes, cheers! —By Jen Hill
It might not have been served on the Pilgrims’ table, but I always make funeral potatoes for Thanksgiving dinner. Our shift in potato preferences began after I came across a funeral-potato recipe in a cookbook crafted by a group of women from Walker Lane in Holladay. The next Thanksgiving, I made the dish alongside my usual mashed potatoes. Surprisingly, the funeral potatoes were a big hit. The next Thanksgiving, I again made both types of potatoes, and again, funeral potatoes were the winner. The next Thanksgiving, I made only funeral potatoes—which I’ve done every year since. The texture of the hash browns blending with cream of chicken soup, cheddar cheese, sour cream and green onions beneath a crunchy, cornflake topping complements our otherwise traditional turkey dinner. Here is my cherished funeral potato recipe:
INGREDIENTS
1 32-ounce package frozen hash browns 2 cans cream of chicken soup 1 small carton sour cream 1/3 cup chopped green onions ¼ stick butter 1 cup grated cheddar cheese 2 cups crushed Corn Flakes ½ stick butter
PROCESS
In a large bowl, mix hash browns, soup, sour cream, onions and grated cheese. Melt ½ stick butter in large casserole dish. Add potato mixture. Combine Corn Flake crumbs and ¼ stick butter, spread on top. Bake for 45 minutes at 350 degrees. —By Carolyn Campbell Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
45
Home Cooking
Germany Meets Italy
I grew up in a family with strong Italian influences. My grandmother was 100 percent Italian and cooked most of our large family meals— Thanksgiving, in particular. My grandfather, who was of German descent, grew up with different traditions, and found a way to work some of his German favorites into the Thanksgiving dinner. (I think push met shove in the kitchen one Thanksgiving, and the Italians were enlightened.)
Sweet & Sour Cabbage The other German dish on the table is sweet and sour cabbage. With a beautiful purple hue created by the secret ingredient (grape jelly. Yes, grape jelly), this dish is simmered with red apples and apple cider vinegar, salt and pepper for over an hour. It adds a pop of color to your plate and complements the meal with both a sweet and savory enhancement. As with some traditional family dishes, it’s is more of an acquired taste, and we do not know its exact origin or how long the grape jelly been around. We allow visitors to pass, although most find it delicious. We find it pairs well with the Italian anchovy bread. 46 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
Aimee’s Sweet and Sour Cabbage Ingredients 1 medium red cabbage (about 3 pounds) 3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon sugar or more, according to taste ¼ cup apple cider vinegar Salt and pepper to taste 2 red apples, peeled, cored and chopped (optional) ½ cup grape jelly
ERICA GOODALL
Sliced Sausage Stuffing It comes as no surprise that my grandfather’s dishes include German staples such as sausage and cabbage. Sausage stuffing has been a tradition in my family since my grandfather was a kid—we do not know or accept any substitutions. In fact, if you marry into the family, you will quickly learn our food traditions are not to be messed with, as eclectic as they might seem. Our stuffing consists of toasted bread, link sausage, a trio of sautéed vegetables and a seasoning blend of sage, poultry seasoning and salt and pepper. This combination of goodness is then moistened with turkey stock and stuffed in the bird. My father, now at the helm, makes an additional side car of stuffing, as moist sandwiches are always on the menu for leftovers.
Process Shred cabbage very fine after discarding tough outer leaves. In heavy kettle, melt butter. Add sugar, but do not brown. Add cabbage and cook 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add vinegar, water, salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer for 2-3 hours, or until cabbage is very tender. Stir occasionally, and if necessary, add water to prevent scorching. When cabbage is almost tender, add apples, if desired, and grape jelly. Cabbage should be quite sweet-sour. If necessary, add more sugar or vinegar, a little at a time. Simmer covered for 30 minutes longer, stirring occasionally. Serve with roast goose or duck. Best if made a day ahead and reheated slowly. —By Aimee L. Cook
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Sweet Treat: Patate Douce
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Thanksgiving in South Louisiana is all about traditional Cajun culinary treats. It wasn’t until I moved away from home that I realized we did things differently than the rest of the country. To this day, I wonder why we don’t eat these delightful dishes throughout the year. I guess the celebration is what makes them special. My mom was a great home cook, and her Thanksgiving (and Christmas) side dishes were in high demand. She enjoyed cooking for the holidays so much, I imagine we were eating the love she put into the food. One of my favorite side dishes (then and now) is a warm and sweet dish adorned with a crunchy topping that we call (in Cajun French) patate douce, which translates to “sweet potato.” Even though sweet potatoes grow in abundance down South, Mom always used a 32-ounce can of Bruce’s yams, cooked and canned in juice. These are not yams at all but are, in fact, sweet potatoes (a botany lesson for another day). Dress It Up as You See Fit This warm, beautiful vegetable casserole has a surprisingly sweet, nutty crunch in the topping that tastes more like dessert than a vegetable. The dish is served on just about every Cajun family’s table for Thanksgiving. Some add marshmallows (we don’t), some serve it in a pie crust (we never do), and some serve it stuffed into hollowed out orange shells and light them on fire. My personal addition to the basic recipe is a big splash of Cointreau liqueur, which adds a lovely orange essence. After moving to Utah in my 30s and attending my first Thanksgiving dinner party, I noticed mashed potatoes everywhere! What’s special about that? I hesitantly placed my traditional dish of patate douce on
Home Cooking
DREAMSTIME IMAGE
Rebecca’s Patate Douce
the table, which was met with some raised eyebrows (it’s not the prettiest dish). I recall one gentleman staring at the dish with trepidation when I put it on the table, saying, “I’ll just have a little taste. I don’t care for yams.” I watched him later dig in for two more servings. Every year, I continue to make my patate douce, and it’s enthusiastically lapped up. It’s a hit with young and old alike, probably because it can easily pass as dessert. My favorite way to eat it? The morning after, for breakfast—cold and in a bowl. Give it a try, I’m sure it will quickly become one of your traditional dishes to celebrate the harvest and give thanks for your many blessings as well.
REBECCA’S PATATE DOUCE (“pot-tot doos”)
INGREDIENTS
3 cups cooked sweet potatoes or 1 32-ounce can of Bruce’s Yams 1 egg ½ cup cane sugar ½ teaspoon salt ½ stick butter, melted ½ cup evaporated milk ½ teaspoon vanilla 2 tablespoons Cointreau (optional) 1½ teaspoons cinnamon Zest of ½ orange
CRUNCH TOPPING INGREDIENTS 1 cup brown sugar 1/3 cup flour 1/3 stick cold butter 1 cup chopped pecans
DIRECTIONS
• Beat egg with fork in large bowl. Add sweet potatoes and mash, keeping some bits un-mashed for better texture. Add half the juice from the can. Add in the rest of the ingredients, gently stirring after each addition. Pour mixture into 8-by-8 casserole or baking dish and bake at 350 degrees for 25-30 minutes until set. • Combine the crunch-topping ingredients by using two forks to cut in the butter into the other ingredients. It will soften. Sprinkle mixture gently on top of the sweet potato casserole. Do not press down! Continue to bake until crunchy, about 20-30 minutes—keep an eye on it so it doesn’t burn. It should be deep brown in color and bubbly. • This serves 8-10 guests, or 6 Cajuns. It easily doubles to serve a crowd in a larger casserole dish and converts to gluten- and dairy-free with substitutes (but butter in the topping is best). • To stuff oranges with the mixture, cut 8 Valencia oranges in half and use the pulp for another dish. Fill the oranges with sweet potato mixture, line orange cups in a baking dish face up. Add topping carefully in the center of each cup and after topping is crunchy, remove from the oven. Light them on fire with a sprinkle of Cointreau for an impressive dessert. —By Rebecca Ory Hernandez Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
49
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50 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
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Home Cooking
TURKEY
KEEP THE
FLAVOR
Enjoying a tasty T-Day meal without ruffling feathers
BY ANNA KASER
Sage’s Cafe & Vertical Diner chef Ian Brandt
F
or many a new vegan or vegetarian, the hardest part about the lifestyle isn’t denying the 3 a.m. cravings or searching for foods to replace meat. No, the hardest part is handling social settings—having to say no to a friend who prepared a homemade pork roast and invited you to dinner, turning down outings to certain eateries or sitting awkwardly while your friends chew on ribs at the local barbecue joint. Even harder is passing on family-made dishes around the holidays. What’s Thanksgiving without turkey? Or Christmas without ham? At least, that’s what members of your family might ask. But the truth is—and stick with me here, meat-friendly readers—you can have a flavorful, authentic home-cooked meal without even the slightest bit of meat. How, you ask? Sage’s Café and Vertical Diner’s founder and chef Ian Brandt talks me through it, step by step. Brandt has spent years perfecting not only vegan cooking, but also diner food: seemingly easy comfort food. The chef also cooks for his own family in a cruelty-free way. Three years
DIANE HARTFORD
SPARE THE
ago, he started his own vegan take on Thanksgiving at Vertical Diner. He plans to do so again this year on Thanksgiving from 11 a.m.-5 p.m. if you want to try out his meat-free approach. Seek the Seitan For the centerpiece of a vegan T-day spread, Brandt suggests using seitan (a vegan meat analogue made from wheat gluten), served with gravy and stuffing. “Over the years, we’ve made corn pudding, risotto, green bean casserole and other side dishes,” he says. It should be noted Brandt isn’t looking to imitate a turkey dinner. He aspires for something aesthetically pleasing, unique and flavorful for his patrons. Brandt’s Tender Tigers is another take on seitan and a staple of the local vegetarian/vegan diet. The breaded seitan is a chicken substitute that has caught on like wildfire and is now available at many restaurants along the Wasatch Front. “We’ve won two awards with PETA for our chicken with the Tender Tiger product,” Brandt says. The company is in the Top 10 for its vegan chicken wings
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
51
Home Cooking
JOHN TYALOR
Vegan Holiday Stuffing
and chicken sandwich. “We even had a customer the other day who said this was the best meal he’d had in Utah,” Brandt continues, “and he didn’t even know he was in a vegan restaurant.” Brandt often speaks in terms of recipes. Flavors and textures constantly swim through his mind. “I look at everything from all my senses,” he says, “what it tastes like, the texture, the crunch.” Risotto is fun, he says, because you can add so many of the senses into one dish. “Risotto with a creamy mushroom stock, rice, and on top of some toasted pine nuts or walnuts with asparagus—that would be a great dish,” he says. As far as flavor goes, Brandt has a few favored ingredients he swears by, mushrooms and nutritional yeast, in particular—both of which can create a strong umami flavor. But for something more out of the box, he travels to local Asian markets since many foods sold there are vegan and vegetarian. “Sesame, tamari and soy sauce all create a dense flavor that can substitute for meat,” he says. He uses them 52 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
sparingly, however, as many have preservatives. Another necessity is a good-quality salt, he notes. Spending more in the salt department can really pay off in a dish, he says. And the French mirepoix made of onion, celery and carrot cannot be forgotten. Whether you’re trying to create meatless holiday staples or a new, veggie-centered dish, or just trying to convince your family to cook with more healthy ingredients this holiday season, there’s limitless ways to create a savory, delicious dish sans meat. Should you need more convincing, try Brandt’s vegan stuffing recipe that follows. Vertical Diner 234 W. 900 South, SLC 801-484-8378 VerticalDiner.com Open Thanksgiving, Nov. 22 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Vegan Holiday Stuffing Recipe
Chef/owner Ian Brandt Sage’s Café, Vertical Diner and Cali’s Natural Foods Makes a 9-by-13 pan INGREDIENTS 1 full loaf baguette (Brandt prefers Vosen’s seven-grain) 3 cups mushrooms, sliced 2 cups walnuts, chopped ½ cup dried fruit, small pieces 1 cup onion, diced 1 cup carrot, diced 1 cup celery, diced ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup white wine 2 tablespoons sage, fresh, minced 2 tablespoons garlic, minced 2 teaspoons Real salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 2 cups water
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PROCESS • Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Cube the baguette into ½-inch cubes and then toast on a cookie sheet until light brown. • In a medium sauce pan, sauté mushrooms, onion, carrot, celery, and garlic with the olive oil and sea salt. • Half of the way through the sauté, add the walnuts. • When these ingredients are cooked thoroughly, and the walnuts are brown, deglaze with white wine. • Add dried fruit, fresh sage, water and fresh ground black pepper. • Note: Green apple and or Anjou pear can also be used instead of the dried fruit. If you wish to use fresh fruit, then use 1 to 1½ cups of fruit and decrease water to 1½ cups. • When the dried fruit has plumped up, add the toasted bread pieces and stir well. • Place the stuffing into a 9-by-13-inch casserole dish and bake at 375 degrees for 15 minutes or until the top is lightly browned and the stuffing is hot all of the way through. • Serve with gravy. ❖ Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
53
Home Cooking
TIME-GIVING
Either as chef or volunteer, Randall Curtis never quits serving.
A
NATALIE SIMPSON
Harbor Seafood & Steak Co. co-owner Randall Curtis
54 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
BY AIMEE L. COOK
fter volunteering with some friends at The Road Home a few years ago, Randall Curtis, chef and owner of Harbor Steak and Seafood, felt the the food being served to the homeless lacked quality. He’d never done any community service before, and his initial impression stayed with him. He returned month after month, serving meals to women at the shelter. In 2016, he founded the Stone Soup Project, a nonprofit dedicated to providing free, nutritious meals to the homeless on a dependable basis. Serving 200 to 300 restaurant-quality dinners twice a month has been a labor of love ever since. In fact, he considers the women at The Road Home family. He cooks the meals on his day off—Monday mornings— starting at 7 a.m., finishing up by noon. He then serves them in the evening or the next day. “It usually takes two to three volunteers and myself to pull it off,” Curtis says. Much of the food is paid for by Curtis himself and Harbor restaurant. He also receives donated fresh food from Nicholas and Co—items the company can’t sell to restaurants—providing a greater variety as well as nutrition. “Because many of the women have such poor teeth, we have to make sure the produce is prepared properly,” Curtis says. “We can’t just hand out apples; we have to cook them down or serve them in small pieces.” Curtis often hears that the last decent meal the women had was the previous one he served to them. “Nicholas and Co. have been strong advocates of feeding the homeless in our community, and through their donations, I’ve been able to serve the women fresh fruit, vegetables and salads,” Curtis says. “We don’t get to choose the food that is donated to us, so it’s like being in an episode of the TV show Chopped—we have to figure out how we are going to serve 200-300 women with a bunch of mystery ingredients pretty quick. If we get cases of bananas, we make bananas Foster.” When Curtis first started this endeavor, he was at a pivotal moment in his life. He was ready to make changes after being a server at Paris Bistro for many years. The job made him realize he really enjoys serving people, but he wanted to do something on a larger scale. In 2014, he and his partner, Taylor Jacobsen, also a server at the Paris Bistro, opened Harbor Steak and Seafood. From there, he got involved with The Road Home, wanting to give back. He even spent a few days on the street with the homeless— learning their stories, earning their trust and, in turn, changing his own life. “You’d be surprised how much these women appreciate just getting a home-cooked meal with fresh food,” Curtis says. “I know many of these women haven’t eaten for days, they’re wet and tired; like everyone else, they’ve had a long day and just
want to kick their feet up and enjoy their dinner. I feel it’s definitely worth my time. Besides, I share things with these women I don’t share with anyone else. I’m very accepted.” For the past few years, John Feldman (son of Michael from Feldman’s Deli) has been collaborating with Curtis in preparing the meals. They enjoy the challenge of coming up with dishes and have developed a real comradery. “The experience has been wonderful,” Feldman explained. “Randall gets random food donated, so week after week, we would never know what kind of supplies we would get. He is a genius because he can combine foods that you’d never think of putting together, and he’ll make a wonderful dish. He taught me how to create delicious meals out of anything.” Feldman also says serving the women at the shelter is something special. “They always greet us with warming smiles, and that is what makes this a beautiful experience.” Curtis and his volunteers are making and serving Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners again this year. For holiday meals, he makes sure they have all the staple fixings and plans on preparing smoked turkey. He has other plans on the horizon as well: Food pantries in local high schools are his next endeavor to feed people in need. The idea is to make meals from pantry donations for students and their families. “Often people don’t know how to prepare fresh produce. If you gave them a carrot, they would just eat the carrot,” Curtis explained. “Ultimately, [showing people how to cook] is the best way to knock out hunger. A lot of people may have food available to them, but they just don’t know how to cook it.” ❖ For more information, visit StoneSoupProjectSLC.org
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55
Devour This | Recipes
JOHN TAYLOR
Garbanzo & Eggplant Fattet
Moudi Sbeity’s Garbanzo and Eggplant Fattet BY DARBY DOYLE
H
ow about showing vegetarians some love at Thanksgiving? At Laziz Kitchen, Moudi Sbeity combines the traditional flavors of his native Lebanon with quintessential comfort foods, such as their local favorite spice-dusted French fries. He’s created a homey casserole makes for a savory do-ahead side dish and is hearty enough to keep the hungriest vegetarian guests satisfied as a main offering. “The casserole does not need to be baked,” Sbeity says, but some cooks prefer it served hot. The equally delicious option of serving at room temperature makes it a perfect potluck contribution. Makes 6-8 servings
INGREDIENTS 1 cup plain yogurt ½ cup tahini ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ½ cup water 3 cloves garlic (divided use) 1 tablespoon dried cumin pepper/salt to taste 1 large eggplant 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 cups (approx.) pita chips 2 15½-ounce cans garbanzo beans (liquid reserved) 1 tablespoon butter ½ cup pine nuts ¼ cup fresh parsley leaves, roughly chopped ½ teaspoon (approx.) sumac ¼ cup pomegranate arils 56 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
DIRECTIONS • If serving hot, preheat oven to 350 degrees. • To a non-reactive medium bowl combine yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, water, one clove mashed garlic and cumin. Add salt and pepper to taste, mix well and set aside. • Remove stem end and slice eggplant lengthwise into long 1/3-inch slices. To a large skillet over medium heat, add olive oil. Fry the eggplant slices on both sides until golden brown. • In a saucepan over medium heat, gently boil garbanzo beans with their liquid and two cloves chopped garlic. • To the bottom of a casserole dish, add a layer of pita chips. Lightly sprinkle some of the garbanzo bean cooking water on top to slightly soften. • Layer the eggplant slices evenly over the pita chips. Drain the garbanzo beans and layer beans on top of the eggplant. • Spread the yogurt-tahini mixture evenly over the top of the casserole. • If desired, bake casserole for 15-20 minutes, or until bubbly. • Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add pine nuts and toss to coat with butter, toast until brown and fragrant. • Top the casserole evenly with toasted pine nuts, parsley and pomegranate arils (if in season). Dust with dried sumac. ❖
Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
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Home Cooking
IN HOUSE TALENT Four pies made by the gifted Copperfield Media staff PHOTOS BY SARAH ARNOFF
N
o offense to the incredible pastry chefs who brighten up our lives at every bakery and eatery along the Wasatch Front, but you don’t need a diploma from The Culinary Institute of America to make great pies (although it can’t hurt to have one). It’s not that unheard of to find noteworthy pie-makers in your midst, and by that, we mean, in the next cubicle. And by pie, we mean the dessert kind— custards, fruit fresh, cream—the circular dessert that marries crusts and fillings, sometimes with crumbs, sprinkles and shavings on top. We asked four of our resident pie experts— business manager Paula Saltas, Devour writer/office admin Anna Kaser, copy editor Sarah Arnoff and freelancer Heather May—to make our work day a little brighter (but not necessarily lighter) by whipping up their favorite holiday pies and sharing their recipe with the staff. Pssst, that means we’re sharing it with you as well. Numerous Copperfield employees who taste-tested will confirm these pies rock! So, go forth and impress your family and friends with these showstoppers. 58 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
Peanut Butter Cheesecake Pie
Baked by office admin/writer Anna Kaser My family has a tradition of using and reusing one another’s recipes. Someone will make a casserole, and soon enough, the rest of the family will demand the recipe. What was their secret? It’s makes you feel like you’ve done well when someone wants to learn about your dish. However, once you add a few forgetful years and some variations in cooking technique, the waters start to muddy around certain recipes. No one can quite remember whose recipe was whose. In my family, each of us thinks we came up with the original. I was still in elementary school when my grandmother brought out a simple recipe for me to make dessert. Her recipes were always a little dirty, having been made multiple times. You knew that a recipe was tried and true if it landed in her recipe box. She chose this specific one for me to make because it was simple, and
Anna Kaser’s peanut butter cheesecake pie
“This pie is more like a cheesecake, but that’s no excuse not to indulge in it.”
even though I enjoyed cooking, I lacked patience for complex ingredients and techniques. This specific card had the name of pie on top: Peanut Butter Pie, but it also had my Aunt Rhonda’s name on it. So, it read, “Rhonda’s Peanut-Butter Pie.” Making that pie was really simple—I was done in less than 30 minutes. But the next day, while visiting another aunt, I raved about how good the pie was. Aunt Shelley, whom I was speaking with, waited patiently for me to finish, then she proceeded to tell me that it was actually her recipe. Not wanting to take sides, I said it must be a misunderstanding. Now, I have a card in my recipes for this dessert, and it, too, is starting to look aged and trusted itself. The recipe reads “Grandma’s-Aunt Rhonda’s-Aunt Shelley’s Peanut Butter Pie.”
INGREDIENTS
35 chocolate wafer cookies ½ cup butter, melted 8 ounces cream cheese, softened ½ cup sugar ¾ cup peanut butter 2 8-ounce tubs of Cool Whip
PROCESS
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Pulse cookies in a food processor until broken but not yet fine. Add the melted butter and continue processing until fine. Press crumb mixture into a 9-inch pie pan with your hand or a cup until the cookie mixture is evenly spread. Bake for 10-15 minutes. Remove and let cool completely. Mix softened cream cheese, sugar and peanut butter until smooth. Mix in 1 tub of Cool Whip until smooth. Top with remaining Cool Whip as desired. Chill and serve. Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
59
Home Cooking
The Miss Paula Pumpkin Pie Baked by business manager Paula Saltas
Paula Saltas’ pumpkin pie
(inspired by Paula Deen) I’m the obstinate one who won’t eat pies from box stores and chain restaurants because I find them too sweet and too spicy. Because of that, my family put me in charge of baking pumpkin pies every Thanksgiving. After much experimentation, I found that Paula Deen’s recipe hits it out of the ballpark for me. It doesn’t have that overwhelming traditional pumpkin-pie-spice flavor that many bakeries put into their custards. Makes 1 deep-dish 9½-inch pie. Don’t expect any leftovers! Happy baking!
INGREDIENTS
1 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened 2 cups canned pumpkin, mashed (note: don’t use pumpkin purée) 1 cup sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 1 cup half-and-half 1 egg plus 2 egg yolks, slightly beaten ¼ cup (½ stick) of roomtemperature butter 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground ginger (optional) 1 pre-made pie crust dough Whipped cream for topping
PROCESS
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place pre-made pie dough into 9½inch pie pan and press down along the bottom and all sides. Pinch and crimp the edges together to make a pretty pattern. Put the pie shell back into the freezer for 1 hour to firm up. Fit a piece of aluminum foil to cover the inside of the shell completely. Fill the shell up to the edges with pie weights or dried beans (about 2 pounds) and place it in the oven. Bake for 10 minutes, remove 60 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
“Every time I bring this pie to a party, people say it’s the best pumpkin pie they have ever had.” the foil and pie weights and bake for another 10 minutes or until the crust is dried out and beginning to color. For the filling, in a large mixing bowl, beat the cream cheese with a hand mixer. Add the pumpkin and beat until combined. Add the sugar and salt and beat until combined. Add the eggs mixed with the yolks, half-and-half and butter, and beat until combined. Finally, add the
vanilla, cinnamon and ginger, if using, and beat until incorporated. Pour the filling into the warm prepared pie crust and bake for 70 minutes, or until the center is set (Paula Deen’s recipe only calls for 50 minutes but I cook mine for 90). Place the pie on a wire rack and cool to room temperature. Cut into slices and top each piece with a dollop of whipped cream.
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Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
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Home Cooking
Fig & Pear Pie With Whipped Goat Cheese Baked by copy editor Sarah Arnoff
Sarah Arnoff’s fig and pear pie
People often think that because I work in a creative field, I must get super experimental in the kitchen. But baking, for me, is more of a clear-my-head stress reliever with lots of structure and precision. It’s really nice to just follow directions and have a tasty product at the end. I started baking pies specifically when looking for something different to bring to a Pie & Beer Day gathering a few years ago. I’ve since become very fond of tracking down off-the-beatenpie recipes, like this fig and goat cheese one. Fresh figs taste wonderful with the goat cheese but dried work fine—you can source fresh figs from Liberty Fresh Market, but I was lucky enough to have a friend who grows them in his backyard.
“Baking, for me, is more of a clear-myhead stress reliever.”
INGREDIENTS CRUST
2 cups flour 2 teaspoons sugar ½ teaspoon salt 2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into cubes and chilled ¼ cup ice water 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
FILLING
2-3 cups fresh figs 1 pound pears, peeled, cored and cut into cubes 2½ cups apple cider 1 cup pear brandy (or ½ cup pear brandy, ½ cup elderflower liqueur if you’re feeling fancy) ¼ cup honey 2 inch-wide strips of lemon zest ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves ⅛ teaspoon allspice Pinch of salt 62 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
WHIPPED GOAT CHEESE
8 ounces plain soft goat cheese ½ cup heavy cream 3 tablespoons honey ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
PROCESS
For the crust: Combine flour, sugar, salt and butter in a food processor. Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Combine the ice water and apple cider vinegar and drizzle on top. Pulse until the dough just comes apart. Turn the dough out and pat into a disk. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate at least 30 minutes. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough and set in a pie dish. Refrigerate at least 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350. Line the crust with foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 20 minutes.
Remove the weights and foil, press out any bubbles and bake for 30 more minutes or until golden brown. Line crust edges with foil to prevent burning if necessary. Let cool completely.
FILLING
For the filling: In a large saucepan, combine figs, pears, apple cider, pear brandy, honey, lemon zest, lemon juice, cinnamon, cloves, allspice and salt. Bring to a boil, then down to a simmer. Simmer until the figs are plump and pears are tender, about 10-15 minutes. Strain the liquid into a bowl and discard the lemon zest. Set fruit aside. Return the liquid to the saucepan and boil until it’s reduced to a thick syrup, about 15 minutes. Combine goat cheese and honey in a bowl. Beat with an electric mixer until the goat cheese is crumbly. Drizzle the cream into the bowl while mixing until it reaches a creamy consistancy. Beat in the vanilla. Spread goat cheese into the pie crust, making sure to coat the sides. Top with fruit. Decorate with extra pear slices and drizzle syrup on top.
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Home Cooking
Peach Caramel Pie Baked by writer Heather May (adapted from Bon Appetit)
“I’m a total pie person—so much better than cake.”
Peach pie for Thanksgiving? Sounds wrong, but, yes. My holiday tradition is that I have no tradition. I like to try new pie flavors every year. This year, I know it will be peach because this summer I canned 50 pounds of peaches, fresh from the orchard to a farm stand near me. It might be unconventional, but who decided lemon meringue made sense for Thanksgiving? No matter the filling, I always follow Bon Appetit’s Flakiest Pie Crust recipe. It’s so yummy, it almost doesn’t matter what’s underneath. In this case, the canned peaches are complemented by a light caramel that evokes fall.
INGREDIENTS CRUST (makes two dough disks)
2¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup (2 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
FILLING
1 cup of sugar, divided ½ teaspoon cinnamon Pinch of salt 1 quart canned peaches 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ¼ cup water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons whipping cream 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 egg, beaten for glaze Raw sugar
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Heather May’s peach caramel pie PROCESS
For the crust: Mix flour, sugar, and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Add butter and pulse until the butter is the size of small peas. Place mixture in a large bowl. Combine vinegar and 3 tablespoons of ice water in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle over flour mixture and mix with your hands. Continue adding liquid and kneading in the bowl until it starts to form clumps. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until clumps form together. Divide dough into 2 pieces and press into disks. Wrap with plastic and set aside one disk for another pie; it will freeze up to a month. Chill the other disk for at least an hour.
For the filling, combine ½ cup sugar with the cinnamon and salt in a large bowl. Add quart of peaches (along with syrup) and lemon juice. Set aside. Stir remaining ½ cup of sugar with ¼ cup of water in a saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat and boil without stirring, occasionally swirling the pan, until syrup is amber. Remove from heat and add butter and whipping cream. Stir caramel until smooth. Strain juices from peaches into the caramel. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Add caramel and flour to peaches in bowl and gently stir. Transfer filling to pie dish. Roll out one disk of dough and arrange over the top of the filling. Decorate the edges as desired, and cut parallel vent lines in various sizes down the middle. Brush the crust with the beaten egg and sprinkle with raw sugar. Cook on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper for 35 minutes. To prevent overbrowning, tent loosely with foil and continue to bake for another 20 minutes until filling is bubbling and crust is nicely browned. ❖
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Home Cooking
Black-Bottom Bourbon Pecan Pie
A PASSION for Pastry Pie making is a kind of love language
by Kelly Greenwood | NightShiftBakingCo.com Adapted from The Pastry Chef ’s Little Black Book
INGREDIENTS CRUST ¾ cup unsalted butter (chilled, cut into ¾-inch cubes) 1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons allpurpose flour (spooned into cup and leveled with a flat edge) 1 tablespoon granulated sugar ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon water (ice cold) 1 teaspoon vinegar (white or cider)
¼ cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon salt ⅔ cup corn syrup 2 tablespoons molasses 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2 tablespoons bourbon ¼ cup all-purpose flour 1½ cups pecans (toasted at 325 degrees for 5 minutes or over medium-low heat on the stove, until fragrant) ¼ cup dark chocolate chips (60 percent cocoa or higher)
PECAN PIE FILLING ¼ cup butter (browned) 3 eggs ¾ cup granulated sugar
EGG WASH 1 egg 2 tablespoons heavy cream
BY HEATHER MAY
T
here’s a reason Thanksgiving is celebrated with pie and not cake. Cake is a hands-off affair—combine the dry ingredients with the wet in a mixer and leave it to the oven. With pie, the baker feels the flour and butter and water come together to form something greater than their parts, and then scrapes and sculpts and rolls out a delicious disc of dough that will contain seasonal fruit, autumnal gourds or nuts suspended in sweetness. “I really love to bake for people. It’s a kind of love language for me,” says Kelly Greenwood, who recently turned a near-lifelong hobby into the side hustle Night Shift Baking Co., where cakes and pies are made to order. “There’s a coziness about” pies, she says. “It’s a kind of celebration of simplicity and the ability to bring something together with just flour, butter, sugar and fresh fruit.” Greenwood invited Devour into her Avenues kitchen to show step-by-step how to make a boozy black-bottom pecan pie that should earn a spot on your Thanksgiving table.
1. Chill out: European butter works best because of its higher butterfat content, but whatever you buy make it unsalted. Cut the stick of butter the long way into fourths, and then into cubes about 1/4 of an inch, and freeze it overnight. Warm butter=too much gluten=a tough crust.
2. Scale up: Measure the flour, sugar and salt using a scale—a critical element of baking. Even if you measure a cup of flour carefully, the amount will be different from cup to cup. Not so when you measure by gram.
3. Shake it up: Pulse the dry ingredients with the butter in a food processor just until the pieces of butter are about the size of a pea. Any bigger, and the butter could melt out while the pie is cooking. You could do this by hand with a pastry cutter, but the metal blade of a processor does it faster.
4. Hydrate: Turn out the butter mixture into a large bowl. Combine vinegar with ice water (really, keep the water cold with ice in the fridge until you are ready to use it). Vinegar isn’t traditional, but it helps inhibit gluten from forming, leaving the crust flakier, she says.
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Home Cooking
5. Slow down: Gradually drizzle in water mixture by hand, not with the processor. “It’s getting to know your pie crust and feeling it while its hydrating,” Greenwood says. Scoop the flour mixture over the water, avoiding getting your hands wet. Continue to add water and mix until it starts to clump together. It should feel moist, soft and pillowy.
6. Mold and freeze: Turn out the dough onto the counter and form it into a ball. If it needs more moisture, create a small well in the center for the water, scraping any dry ingredients from the edges onto the top. Mold it into disc, cover in plastic wrap and stick it in the fridge for at least an hour and preferably overnight. To speed the process, freeze for 30 minutes while you make the filling.
7. Fill it up: Melt the butter. The microwave is fine, or brown it on the stove over medium heat if you like the nutty flavor of browned butter. Stop when it starts to brown lightly and becomes fragrant. Set aside.
8. Whiskey, please: In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, granulated sugar, brown sugar and salt together with a whisk until well combined. Add corn syrup, molasses, vanilla and bourbon, scraping down the sides as necessary. Greenwood prefers Utah’s High West Prairie Bourbon Whiskey, and she likes the complexity bourbon brings to the pie. Whisk in flour as a thickener and add the melted butter. Set filling aside.
9. Roll with it: Sprinkle some flour onto the counter and roll from the middle, where the dough is coldest. Turn it 45 degrees and roll if the circle becomes lopsided. If the edges come apart, pinch them together, and add a little flour to patch any gaps. You should see different-sized chunks of butter in the dough. Roll the crust out to 1/8 of an inch thick.
10. Fold and drape: Gently fold the dough in half to move it to your pie pan. Line it up with the middle of the pan; it will drape over the sides. Cut the edges, keeping the crust long enough to touch the table. Keep the scraps in the fridge to make a decorative top.
11. Flute the edges: Fold the edges of the crust under itself so that the dough sits about a half inch above the pan. Flute the edges by pushing your thumb from one hand in between the thumb and index finger of your other hand.
12. Cover with chocolate: Arrange the bottom of the crust with chocolate discs. Sprinkle 2/3 of the pecans evenly on top. Gently pour the filling over the pecans. Decorate the top with the remaining nuts.
13. Wash it: Make an egg wash by whisking together the egg and heavy cream. Brush the edges and top of the crust to give the pie a nice brown finish. Place in the freezer while you roll out the extra dough and stamp or cut out leaf shapes. Add those to the pie and brush with the egg wash.
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14. Finish: Bake at 350 degrees for 60-75 minutes, or until golden and the middle is set, puffed up and just slightly wobbly. Cool for a few hours before devouring. ❖
Kelly Greenwood’s Black-Bottom Bourbon Pecan Pie Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
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Spirit Guide
l u f t h g i l e D
DAY of
DRINKING There are no strict rules for choosing Thanksgiving wine, except maybe to sip while you cook BY DARBY DOYLE
Noelia Bebelia Albariño
I
t seems an almost impossible task, picking a wine (or two) to go with the myriad rich, savory, sweet and saucy components of the most hodge-podge holiday meal, Thanksgiving. Here are two sommeliers’ selections to help navigate the fray. Stephanie Cuadra of Terrestoria Wines splits her time as a wine importer living in Milan, Italy, and Salt Lake City. She’s especially attuned to the many working parts of pairing wine with a wide range of food. “Growing up in a Mexican family with Spanish roots, I always saw paella served alongside our turkey,” she says. Cuadra’s picks for the table have similar international flavors in mind. Noelia Bebelia Albariño ($25.99) from the Adega San Salvador de Soutomaior estate, is a mineral-forward white wine with bright acidity from the northwestern corner of
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Quarta Generazione Spain. “[It’s] a classic pairing for seafood specialties, yet also a delightful complement to white meats and ethnic dishes with a touch of spice,” Cuadra says. A food-friendly red, Quarta Generazione ($33.99) is made from aglianico del Vulture grapes grown on the slopes of extinct volcano Mount Vulture. “This is elegance you want to drink, and eat with,” Cuadra advises. “Rather than drowning out flavors of food, this wine puts a lovely accent on supper” with earthy spice, bright red cherry and vibrant acidity. Sonia Spadaro Mulone is the estate winemaker for Santa Maria La Nave located on Italy’s Mount Etna. A childhood dish she remembers growing up in Sicily is cudduruni, a savory focaccia-style folded crust pie filled with vegetables or sausage. “If I were preparing Thanksgiving dinner in Utah, I would serve this specialty from my hometown Lentini,” she says. “It
Mulone’s Calmarossa
reminds me of my childhood, when making cudduruni with my grandmother and mother on rainy afternoons was always a special treat.” Mulone’s Calmarossa ($70.99) made from nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio grapes grown on the slope of Mount Etna is a spectacular wine for special occasions. Pago Restaurant Group owner and sommelier Scott Evans acknowledges the challenge of matching beverages with the typical holiday table’s bounty. “With Thanksgiving meals you want to think of wines that can transition well from yams to turkey leg,” he says. As his own restaurants reflect a wide range of food traditions, he’s used to bringing flexible choices to the table. These wines would also make great gifts for holiday hosts. “I like to go with a light red,” Evans says. For bridging the unpredictable Thanksgiving pot-luck gap, he recommends the fruity Broc Cellars Love Red blend ($14.99) made from
Broc Cellars Love Red blend
Bulliat Morgon Beaujolias
carignan, syrah and valdiguié varietals. He also suggests trying organic Bulliat Morgon Beaujolias ($23.23) from France. As one of the state’s earliest champions of bringing more hard ciders to Utah, it’s no surprise Evans finds cider a great option for holiday sipping. “Try a simple and fresh Washington hard cider infused with lemongrass that is new to the Utah shelves: Incline Lemongrass Cider at $2.28 per can,” he suggests. For a flexible white, Evans says it doesn’t get better than Portugal’s famed vinho verde. “It’s really delicious with everything on the table at a traditional Thanksgiving meal.” His picks are also affordable options if you’re pouring for a crowd: Covela Avesso ($12.99) and Mica ($10.98). “Whether your vinho verde has a spritz or not, the mineral qualities, light body and limey acidity are just what your tummy needs with such a large meal,” he says. ❖
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Start the year
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72 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
HOSTESS GIFTS WE
LOVE
3
4
BY HEATHER L. KING
1
2
Country Spoon Cherry Salsa Santaquin is America’s second largest producer of tart cherries, and there’s no better place to find everything tart cherry than Rowley’s Red Barn. Besides dried fruit and cherry concentrate, Rowley’s sells a distinctive tart cherry salsa (containing no tomatoes) developed by the family matriarchs. It’s a tangy topper for roasted meats and a colorful cracker spread at holiday events. $4.98 Rowley’s Red Barn, 901 S. 300 West, Santaquin, 801-7545511, RowleysRedBarn.com
1
Cattle Truck Mexican 2 Blue Vanilla-Bean Honey
Blue Cattle Truck has been importing Mexican vanilla to Utah County, bottling and packaging their products for two decades. Their newest item is Mexican vanilla-bean honey—a mix of raw Utah honey blended with Mexican vanilla beans. Spread it on toast and croissants or dip a spoonful in hot coffee or tea for a delicious treat. $19.95 Order online at MexicanVanilla.com or get it at Spoons ’n Spice, The Store or Gygi.
Coffee 3 Millcreek Roasters Coffee
One of Salt Lake’s original and bestloved coffee roasters, Millcreek fresh roasts their sustainably grown beans downtown for a wide variety of single-origin and custom blends. Pick up a bag of whole bean or ground coffee to bring gorgeous aromas and caffeinated smiles to your home each day. Millcreek also offers a coffee subscription program beginning at $19.95 (including shipping) for 1 or 2 pound bags shipped weekly, semi-monthly or monthly. 657 S. Main, SLC, 801-595-8646, MillcreekCoffee.com
Flowers from Native 4 Fresh Flower Co.
While guests might be tempted to show up with a beautiful floral arrangement for the holiday table, a safe bet would be that your hosts already have an orchestrated theme in mind. Instead, gift them with three months of fresh arrangements from Native Flower delivered to their door. Delivery times and dates can be coordinated and prices range from $45, $75 and $125 per month. 1448 E. 2700 South, SLC, 801-364-4606, NativeFlowerCompany.com ❖
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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE AND GIVEAWAY 1
1. Thistle & Thyme/Wakara Bar
Give the gift of warmth and comfort this holiday season by treating someone to hearty eclectic American craft cuisine from Thistle & Thyme. Thistle & Thyme is located in the University Park Marriott and is the University and East Bench goto for dining, drinking and holiday parties. Gift certificates from Thistle & Thyme are good for food and drink in Wakara Bar or Thistle & Thyme. 801.584.3327 thistlethymeslc.com 480 Wakara Way, SLC (Inside the University Park Marriott)
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2. Salt City Brew Supply
Looking to get something for that beer nerd in your life? Give the gift of craft beer brewing equipment and ingredients. There is no better way to learn more about beer than to start making it yourself. Find everything you need to make beer, wine, hard cider, and more at either of our two locations in Utah. We hold beginner classes too, FOR FREE! 801-849-0955 (Midvale), 385-238-4995 (Ogden) saltcitybrew.com 723 E. Fort Union Blvd. (Midvale) and 2269 Grant Ave. (Ogden)
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3. Millcreek Gardens
Create a great holiday at Millcreek Gardens! Choose from seasonal wreaths, garland, and greens. Millcreek Gardens offers a fresh selection of Christmas trees, creative gifts, stocking stuffers, beautiful plants and containers to make gift giving easy. Can’t decide? Great gardens begin with a gift certificate from Millcreek Gardens! 801-487-4131 millcreekgardens.com 3500 South 900 East SLC
During the months of November and December, you can enter to win beautiful prizes from local shops and restaurants featured here in our special Gift Guide section. Visit devourutah.com and sign up for Devour Utah’s newsletter to get weekly updates on prizes.
READER GIVEAWAYS NOV. 1 THRU DEC. 15
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4. The Garden Store
For 26 year Ward & Child, The Garden Store has been providing the best of what the Holiday season has to offer. We bring in Holiday objects from around the world, many of which are handmade in Germany, Italy, Poland, Russia and the United States. From one of a kind gifts to furniture and accessories for the Home and Garden. Rediscover the Holiday spirit at Ward and Child, The Garden Store. 801-595-6622 instagram.com/wardandchild/?hl=en 678 South 700 East SLC
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5. Alpha Coffee
Co-owned by a combat veteran and military spouse, Alpha Coffee provides customers with premium roasts and sends donated beans to service members deployed downrange — more than 13,000 bags to date. They have been selling their specialty roasts online since Sept 11, 2010. Their first coffee shop is now open at the Mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon. 385-449-0580 https://alpha.coffee/ 7260 Racquet Club Dr. Cottonwood Heights
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6. Soulstice Day Spa
Give the gift of Comfort AND Joy this holiday season with a day at Soulstice Day Spa & Salon! Offering a variety of services to fit your needs, such as full-body scrubs and wraps, decadent facials, mani/pedis, aah inspiring massage and a full-service hair studio! With two locations across the valley, Soulstice Day Spa & Salon is your onestop holiday shop! Gift cards available on location or online. 810-255-3655 soulsticedayspa.com Multiple Locations
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
g n i t a r b e l e C F
ood is a necessity but it is how we share it that creates community. We love our Utah food community and we know you do too. November is the season of hospitality, gathering around the dinner table and giving thanks for good food, good friends and good family. No one quite knows how execute this experience like Utah restaurants. We invite you to taste Utah hospitality all through the month of November. Thanksgiving is a busy holiday for many of our restaurants. Maybe you like to stay home, cooking all day and creating memories in your own kitchen by baking pies from scratch, brining, basting and roasting turkey and peeling, boiling and whipping mashed potatoes. It’s the picture of perfection. But let’s be real, often the season of giving can become exceptionally busy and we know your plate is full already! So what do you do when you’ve promised dinner for friends and family but the day has gotten away from you and there is zero time to cook or the turkey is too well done? That’s when you call your friendly Utah restaurant and place an order to go. Let Utah restaurants do the work while you take the credit. Mashed potatoes just like mom used to make . . . well, without the lumps, stress and anxiety. For our Utah restaurants the aim to serve and the entire mission is to allow you to shine and relax. Through TasteUT.com the Utah Restaurant Association has done all the work to guide you to restaurants and purveyors that will pair perfectly with any gathering or celebration. Whether we are taking care of you and your loved ones, colleagues and friends allowing you the opportunity to enjoy moments together in our restaurants or preparing amazing hand-crafted food and drink to compliment any gathering you are hosting, we know sometimes eating out, means getting it to go. Within these pages we’ll introduce you to great holiday ideas and helpful insights that only Utah’s food community and restaurants can provide. Turn your attention to celebrating the season, wow your guests with extraordinary artisan, craft and specialty foods that connect you to Utah’s unique food community. Consider the reliability, convenience and wow factor of holiday take-out. Our restaurants will provide you with the greatest commodity during the holidays… more time, not to mention significantly less dishes! 78 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
The Season with Utah Restaurants
Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
CAPUTO’S MARKET DOWNTOWN SLC
GOURMANDISE, THE BAKERY THIRD & THIRD
COPPER KITCHEN FAMILY MEALS TO GO
You want to make Matt Caputo and the gourmands at Caputo’s your best friends during the holiday season. It’s a one stop shop for all your celebration edibles locally sourced and intentionally imported. They are sure to make you the champion of any dinner party this season. Caputo’s incredible cheese counter is sourced with many cheeses from their two cheese caves, along with a charcuterie counter full of offerings you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere else. Don’t forget they have the finest chocolate selection in the country along with olive oils, jams and vinegars to elevate your menu. And with their freezers full of house made pastas, lasagne’s and collaborations with some of Utah’s new and exciting artisans like Normal Ice Cream, a stop here equals a win for you.
If you love fresh baked goods yet lack the skill of an expert baker and still want to impress your loved ones, have no fear! The seasoned professionals at Gourmandise are here to make you the superstar of any meal. With their infamous pastry shelves at their third & third location always fully stocked with rustic and refined desserts and breads, they’ve also opened a 2nd location to support your sweet tooth cravings. They offer the traditional pies, cakes and desserts but also have speciality items such as fruit tarts, tiramisu, breads and cookies. You can always stop by in a jam and pick and choose from the case but we recommend ordering in well in advance!
The Copper Kitchen in Holladay always gives us a reason to celebrate by keeping it fresh and fabulous. The unique flavor profiles offered through the open flame wood fire grill and their adherence to sustainable agriculture and regional sourcing makes them a perfect dine in option but now, you can truly get the dining experience to go. For the past couple months they have been offering family meals to-go Sunday — Wednesday. Serving parties of four, the Copper Kitchen meals to go rotate every week so prices and availability will vary! Be sure to call ahead for details, pickup times, and to guarantee availability.
314 W 300 S, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 801.531.8669
250 300 E, Salt Lake City, UT 84111 801.328.3330
4640 S 2300 E #102, Holladay, UT 84117 385.237.3159
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Content provided by Utah Restaurant Association
Taste Utah is gearing up for
➧
We are hungry for authentic Utah restaurant stories across the state. Wether you are a restaurateur, supplier or a superfan with a must-featurerecommend… we want to hear from you! Contact info@TasteUT.com and introduce yourself to us.
n o s a e s
5!
Taste Utah season 5 is coming to ABC 4 KUTX Sundays @ 9:00AM beginning January 2019.
We're About To Get Tasting Utah! #TASTEUTAH | INFO@TASTEUT.COM
Join your hosts Katy and Jami on ABC4 for restaurant inspiration and dining destinations during the ABC4 News at Midday. Get insider access, meet the chef and watch to win a dining destination gift certificate! Check out TasteUtah on instagram for updates and keep posting your food photos with #TasteUtah. 80 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
3 of Utah’s Hottest Chefs | 2 Burners | 1 Dream
NO ELECTRICITY… NO PROBLEM
MentorChef Justin Shifflett Stoneground Kitchen
MentorChef Jodie Rogers Deer Valley Resort
MentorChef Tyler Stokes Provisions
oin 12 aspiring Utah TeenChefs as they compete for the opportunity of a lifetime: a FOUR YEAR SCHOLARSHIP to Johnson & Wales University, an educational experience unlike any other, and the ultimate title of TeenChef Pro CHAMPION.
J
Mentored by 3 of Utah’s hottest chefs; MentorChef Justin Shifflett of Stoneground Kitchen, MentorChef Jodie Rogers of Deer Valley Resort and MentorChef Tyler Stokes of Provisions and hosted by Utah favorite Michael McHenry; Restaurateur & Founder of the McHenry Group. Each week the aspiring TeenChefs are introduced to culinary themes, guest judges and the culinary curveball. Can these TeenChefs take the HEAT and make the cut? Don’t miss Season 4 of TeenChef Pro! Play along each week in the You Be The Judge contest by dining at all 3 of our MentorChefs restaurants as they feature their team’s weekly dish on their restaurant menus.
Get or yF d a e R hef C n e Te ason e S Pro 4
Beginning October 14, 2018 NEW TIME SUNDAYS at 9:30AM on NEW STATION ABC Good4Utah, KUTX
YOU BE THE JUDGE CONTEST
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Last Bite
DREAMSTIME IMAGE
Egg Coffee
Amber Hues of Grind
Crack an egg to remove bitterness and clarify your coffee BY JOHN RASMUSON
M
y mother learned to make egg coffee in her 20s, willynilly. Back in the day, it was the beverage of choice in the dining rooms and parlors of “Little Denmark” in Sanpete County,120 miles south of Salt Lake City. Moving to Ephraim at the end of World War II, she was invited to join the women’s clubs that met on weekday afternoons. Some had a literary focus; others were devoted to bridge. When the local Mormon elders put the kibosh on games using standard playing cards, the women turned to Rook, a 57-card game free of venal association. Drinking coffee was never much of an issue for Sanpete Mormons. Club members took turns hosting the meetings. When my mother’s turn came around, Aunt Stena arrived—early and unbidden—to make egg coffee in a stove-top pot. Stena, born in 1877 to Danish immigrants, had rheumy eyes and skin the color of sun-bleached muslin. She favored dark dresses with a cameo brooch at the neckline. Widowed in her 50s, she made her way as a freelance housekeeper. If you invited her to Thanksgiving dinner, she soon found an apron and a space at the kitchen counter. She often baked rolls and diverted impatient children with butter-and-sugar sandwiches. My memory of those home-cooked Thanksgiving dinners is sketchy, but I now realize that “home cooking” depended on someone at home—cooking—usually beginning at dawn. In my family, it was mothers and grandmothers. As they baked, boiled and basted, they also attended to a matrilineal rite 82 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018
whereby young girls learned the secrets of white sauce, pickled beets and egg coffee. The men’s role was laughable. At the last moment, the gravy boated, they were given a big knife as if a Y chromosome had imbued the know-how to carve meat from a turkey carcass. Men are still trusted with carving knives, but egg coffee has been all but lost in the quest for a better-faster cup of coffee that has brought us the Keurig pod. By the time I was spooning Folgers into my first Mr. Coffee machine in the 1970s, egg coffee was just another family story—like the jug of homemade root beer that exploded one night. Then, a few years ago, while leafing through a 1931 edition of Household Searchlight Recipe Book, I came upon these directions for egg coffee: “Rinse coffeepot with boiling water. Measure coffee into pot, allowing one tablespoon coffee for each cup of water. Combine coffee with slightly beaten egg, using one egg for each eight tablespoons of coffee. Pour measured amount of freshly boiled water over coffee and egg. Heat to boiling. Boil three minutes. Strain and serve at once.” I tried it—without matriarchal assistance. Pouring hot water on the egg-congealed grounds, I felt the twinge of doubt my mother must have experienced the first time she watched Stena at work. My resulting, amber-hued coffee was certainly drinkable but thin for my taste. I’m sure Stena would say: Next time use less water. ❖
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84 Devour Utah • NOVEMBER 2018