VOL. 5 NO. 11 • NOVEMBER 2019 • HOME COOKING FREE COPY
Wines That Play Nicely With Others P. 48
Favorite Thanksgiving Recipes by Utah Food Bloggers P. 14
Gifts For Vegans (And Those Who Love Food) P. 36
HOME COOKING Devour Utah • november 2019 1
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Contents 10 The Bake Mistake
Yes, homemade anything is admirable, but for Thanksgiving pies, maybe leave it to the pros. BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL
14 The Potluck Posse
A dozen recipes created by food bloggers for an extraordinary Thanksgiving meal BY DEVOUR STAFF
34 The Spread Oquirrh Restaurant BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
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Sourdough stuffing by Leslie Shelledy, blogger at The Truthful Take
36 The Green Scene
46 Plate It
BY AMANDA ROCK
BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
Gifts for the vegan (and any food lover) in your life
38 Reason for the Season
Why pumpkin spice gets a whole latte love BY MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON
44 Things We Love Harvest Edition
BY MIKA LEE AND CAIT LEE
PHOTO BY JACKELIN SLACK
Thistle & Thyme’s cranberry relish
48 Spirit Guide
Wines that play nicely with others BY DARBY DOYLE
50 Last Bite
Celebrate gratitude in style by hosting a hassle-free Friendsgiving BY LIZZIE CAWLEY
Devour Utah • november 2019 5
Contributors
STAFF Publisher JOHN SALTAS Director of Operations PETE SALTAS Editorial Editor JERRE WROBLE Proofreaders LANCE GUDMUNDSEN, MEGAN WAGSTAFF Contributors CAROLYN CAMPBELL, LIZZIE CAWLEY, AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON, HEATHER L. KING, CAIT LEE, MIKA LEE, CLAIRE MCARTHUR, AMANDA ROCK, JACKELIN SLACK
After starting out writing about beautiful homes and gardens in Utah, Aimee L. Cook now dabbles in subjects from food to human interest. A member of the Association of Food Journalists, she writes for several local publications.
Production Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, CHELSEA NEIDER
Business/Office Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMANTHA HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS
Lizzie Cawley grew up in a home where beautifully crafted food was a primary love language. When she’s not scouring the foodie scene or teaching high school English, she can be found hiking in the luscious Utah mountains or the dry Arizona xeriscape of her hometown, Centennial Park, Ariz.
Circulation Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO
Sales Sales Director, Events Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executive
KYLE KENNEDY ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER KELLY BOYCE Merry Lycette Harrison is an herbalist who owns SLC-based Millcreek Herbs. A professional member of the American Herbalists Guild, she teaches classes in medicinal and culinary herbs and herb gardening. To learn more, visit MillcreekHerbs.com.
Cover photo by Jackelin Slack Jackelin Slack’s Curried Butternut Squash Soup Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour are available for $4.95 at the Devour offices located at 248 S. Main, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-716-1777, Ext. 6 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing
Copyright 2019 All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
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@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Amanda Rock has been writing about Salt Lake City’s vegan and vegetarian food for more than a decade. She’s also been the scribe of Devour ’s Green Scene column since February. Her final Green Scene column runs this month but she hopes to contribute as an occasional writer in the future. Find Rock on Instagram and Twitter as @amanda__reads
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SICILIAMIAUTAH.COM Devour Utah • november 2019 7
From the Editor
Thanks for Everything
W
ow, that was fun! For this issue, we got to spend time with local food bloggers and social media pros while they prepared dishes for a Thanksgiving potluck. After last year being treated to T-Day dishes made by local chefs—top drawer in every way—we decided that for 2019, we’d invite local cooks and bakers who operate blogs and Instagram accounts to share their favorite Thanksgiving recipes. I imagined it would be hard to top the 2018 potluck. But turns out that this gathering went even a few steps beyond. Food bloggers share recipes from the heart, with true concern for their followers. They’re people who need people, as the old song goes. Their collective online following is proof they know how to connect, a quality which made for a most enjoyable afternoon at the Orson Gygi teaching kitchen. The event was more along the lines of a Friendsgiving (which you’ll read about in Lizzie Cawley’s Last Bite in this issue), with cooks discussing the art of cooking, blogging and the “biz” while sipping cocktails and hoping their potluck offerings would turn out the way they’d envisioned. Whiffs of cinnamon, nutmeg, apples, plum, cranberry and bread wafted in the air and later melded on the plate with the gentle smoke of Aimee Cook’s Traeger Grillroasted turkey. Our taste buds extend copious kudos to those who participated, especially our writers Aimee L. Cook, Darby Doyle and Heather L. King, who contacted and coordinated the meal with the bloggers. Now that we’ve just passed our fifth-year mark as a magazine, we’d also like to thank all our Devour writers and photographers, past and present. Each month, you bring your enthusiasm and talent to bear to make this magazine an inspired read for the community. Lately, we’ve heard from several readers about how much they enjoy Devour, noting that when they travel to other cities, they don’t always find comparable magazines. Credit for starting this publication and keeping it going goes to publisher John Saltas and his family, all of whom are involved. It hasn’t been easy. As I’m sure you know, print publications are struggling. Advertisers help us pay our printing bill, but now they feel the pull of web apps and social media. To connect with new customers, they end up hiring social media managers and content creators in lieu of buying print ads. But the thing is: We’re still here, and people are still reading. Our advertisers are still benefiting. As a free publication, Devour magazines are swept up from our news racks in the first weeks of distribution. I tell everyone I know: Enjoy print while you still can! Reading about local people and places in a nicely produced, gorgeously illustrated publication (thanks, Derek Carlisle) is pure happiness. So take it in, and maybe even suggest to the food purveyors that you patronize to keep Devour in mind for their next ad buy. The food scene in Utah is ever evolving and expanding, mirroring the population growth and the diversity of new businesses rooting themselves in the Beehive State. To shine a light on the industry that feeds and nurtures Utahns is an honor, and one I remain thankful for. ❖ —Jerre Wroble
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ut for b , e l b a admir s os. i r g p n e i h h t t e a ny e it to d v a a e l m e e b Yes, hom v ing pies, may PBELL AM gi OLYN C BY CAR Tha nks
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The Lion House classic apple pie COURTESY PHOTO
etired Lion House employee Julie Ulrich recalls the days of baking 500 pies for Thanksgiving. “We put all the finished pies in four separate rooms. The baker did a tally. When there were 500, she told us to stop taking orders. But there were still more people who wanted pie,” Ulrich says. Some customers bought pie crusts only, while others insisted on whipped cream. Still others preferred their pies without toppings. “Buying a pie from a bakery or restaurant helps assure that families will have quality desserts on Thanksgiving,” she says, because, she confesses, “I myself have baked a pie that failed.” This year, leave your holiday pies to the pros when you order one of these four local faves. Heck, you might even manage to impress your in-laws.
Fab Four
Classic Apple Pie
Oatmeal Pie
Brian Richter, executive chef at the Joseph Smith Memorial Building, is preparing to bake Thanksgiving pies for the Lion House. After graduating from Johnson and Wales University in Providence, R.I., with a degree in culinary arts, Richter says he “worked everywhere from Florida to Colorado” before coming to Utah four years ago. His favorite pie to bake is apple, because of the potential versatility. As far as spices go, “You can go with traditional cinnamon, or add clove or nutmeg or a little cayenne to bring out a different element,” he says. “You can use Fuji apples or the more traditional green apple or a blend of different apples.” He uses butter in the bottom of a sauté pan to pre-cook the filling and remove excess moisture. He recommends using a little cornstarch to thicken the filling, if needed. Richter uses lard to make the crust tender and flaky. “I mix flour and lard in ice-cold water,” he says. “The cold water makes the lard stay in form, then it kind of melts in as it cooks. You basically want to get your bits of lard sorted throughout.” He recommends ordering pies as soon as possible, since Thanksgiving is the busiest time of year at the Lion House. The most popular pies are pumpkin, apple, peach and berry, with the apple priced at $18. The Lion House 63 E. South Temple, SLC 801-539-3130, Ext. 1 TempleSquare.com
Gray Cliff Lodge Restaurant owner Stephen Sniggs recalls that his great aunt originally found her recipe for oatmeal pie, a mock pecan pie, in an AARP Magazine. “Forty years ago, she was looking for something different,” Sniggs recalls. “After trying the pie out at home, she started making it for the restaurant.” Sniggs grew up around his father’s restaurant business, where he began washing dishes when he was 12. He’s spent more than 30 years perfecting recipes in the kitchen. To make the signature oatmeal pie, he blends oatmeal, butter, eggs, milk, sugar and dark corn syrup with walnuts and coconut. He pours the combination into a single crust, before baking it at 300 degrees for about 40 minutes, until it is golden brown. “We always serve it with a dollop of whipped cream on top,” says Sniggs. An oatmeal pie sells for $9. Gray Cliff Lodge Restaurant 508 Ogden Canyon, Ogden 801-392-6775 GrayCliffLodge.com
DEREK CARLISLE
Gray Cliff Lodge Restaurant oatmeal pie
Devour Utah • november 2019 11
It’s time to book your
PARTY 2155 s highland drive | salt lake city Reservations: 385.602.3177
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Fab Four
Pumpkin Pie
Apple Pie Topped With Cheddar Cheese As the Left Fork Grill owner for 14 years, Jeff Masten takes pride in serving his mother’s original pie recipes—along with a few of his own. His favorite is Mom’s Apple Pie. His technique? “I cook it at a low temperature for 70 minutes,” he says. “In some apple pies, the apples are still firm. I like mine to be cooked.” Cinnamon is the only spice he adds. When making the dough, he adds lard twice. “The first time, I add a little less,” he says. “The second time, I add an inch or so and then cut it all in.” Then he adds three to four tablespoons of water. “I don’t measure the water. I do it by feel. I use more water in winter than in the summer.” To serve, he tops the apple pie with a sharp New York cheddar cheese shipped from a country store near the Canadian border. Masten used to make the Left Fork Grill’s pies by himself. He has since hired a baker who creates pies ranging from pistachio to banana cream to raspberry cream. “The raspberry cream is my mother’s recipe,” he says. “She made it with strawberries. Then I made a raspberry version, and it was a hit.” He uses dark chocolate in his chocolate pies for additional flavor. On the week before Thanksgiving, he makes pecan, apple and pumpkin. An apple pie is $20. He suggests purchasing pies on the day you plan to serve them. “We are open on Thanksgiving. It’s our busiest day of the year.” Left Fork Grill 68 W. 3900 South, SLC 801-266-4322 LeftForkGrill.ipower.com
After Bob Walkenhorst graduated from high school in 1951, he began working as co-owner of Carol’s Pastry, along with his brother, Al. “We made 9-inch pies for 58 cents apiece. Back then, we delivered to a lot of restaurants.” Today, at Thanksgiving, they make pumpkin, apple, mincemeat, cherry and boysenberry pies. Walkenhorst creates a pumpkin pie by blending a No. 10 can of Libby’s Pumpkin with eggs, sugar, brown sugar and pumpkin-pie spice and milk. He then pours the mixture into a crust that he rolls by hand “with my little rolling pin,” he says. He bakes the pies for 30 minutes at about 365 degrees. The cooled pie is topped with Pastry Pride whipped topping. A pumpkin pie goes for $10.95 ❖ Carol’s Pastry Shop 1991 S. Lincoln St. (940 East), SLC 801-484-3442
Bob and Al Walkenhorst, longtime bakers of pies at Carol’s Pastry Shop
DEREK CARLISLE
Left Fork Grill cheddar cheese-topped apple pie
DEREK CARLISLE
Caption
Devour Utah • november 2019 13
the
k c u l t Po e s s o P A dozen recipes created by food bloggers for an extraordinary Thanksgiving meal BY DEVOUR STAFF PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACKELIN SLACK
we get it. It’s Thanksgiving. A meal you’ve feasted upon for __ years in a row (fill in the blank with your age, minus three: one for your infancy and two for those years you were out of the country for study abroad/a church mission/military service or stranded at an airport. Just how many ways can you spin this American feast and still serve a meal that your family and friends will recognize? Turns out there’s no shortage of fresh and scintillating ideas, especially if you’re ingenious enough to invite a dozen food bloggers to a potluck dinner, as Devour editors did in September. Being able to use the spacious teaching kitchen at Gygi Culinary Arts Center (3500 S. 300 West, South Salt Lake, 801-268-3316 , Gygi.com) gave us ample space to create such a feast, plus a place to dine. Thanks to Heather Smith and her staff for hosting our event. Starting with an appletini cocktail and a ramekin of fish pate to spread on crackers, it was obvious this would not be our Gram’s T-day spread. Taking a lead role was Aimee L. Cook (with Gather, Nosh and Savor) who roasted a fresh turkey from Utah Natural
OK,
14 Devour Utah • november 2019
Meat & Milk on her Traeger grill. Her method resulted in a moist and succulent smoked bird and a gravy with a surprisingly smoky edge. Both were oh-so-amazing! From there, we were treated to a veritable flavor-copia of sides, dessert and wine: A curried butternut squash soup kicked off the meal in style, followed by rosemary-spiked sourdough stuffing, creamy gold potatoes (seasoned with rosemary, thyme and sage), apple-cinnamon sweet potatoes and pecans, Brussels sprouts prepared with pancetta and apple-cider vinegar, a pecan studded wild-rice pilaf (as an alternative to bread stuffing), garlicky crescent rolls served with cranberry chutney and plum butter and finally, dessert that included a slice of plum crumble pie topped with a dollop of whipped cream. The courses were nicely paired with a variety of wines suggested by Vine Lore Wine and Spirits (see p. 48). One thing became clear to the Devour editors: food bloggers rock! These cooks and bakers know how to create authentic, healthy fare at home. Thus, if you’re seeking ideas for an inspired banquet, these bloggers and Instagrammers have it dialed in. This menu is a crowd-pleasing fest of zest.
Get This Party Started
Lisa Clark and Erika Radford In 2017, sisters Lisa Clark and Erika Radford started the Boozy Ketones Instagram page as a place to log their low- and no-sugar cocktail recipes: “We started doing the Keto diet thing,” says Clark, “mostly to conquer sugar cravings and some bad eating habits.” Agrees Radford, “We gave up on a lot of things in the name of health but drew a hard line at alcohol.” After researching available lowsugar recipes on the internet (which they declared “boring”), they decided to take matters into their own hands: “For the people. Mostly for us,” says Clark with the irreverent and deliciously sarcastic wit that has made Boozy Ketones one of my favorite feeds for a good laugh to go along with their beautiful cocktails. “Drinking and entertaining should be fun,” says Clark of the sisters’ philosophy of hosting friends and family. “Our approach to a healthy lifestyle is that you need to be reasonable. Be happy and have a social
life and don’t make yourself miserable, just make some adjustments.” When making drinks for a crowd, the sisters like to set up an easy and casual serve-yourself bar to suit different tastes. “Alcohol can be something guests have a very strong opinion about, so we try to guide tastes to try something new while also having the classic mixers available.” They created this celebratory cocktail with bubbles and Utah gin infused with the apple-pie flavors of fall. “Sparkling wine effectively kicks off the holiday season,” says Clark of the cocktail, and “It’s also a breeze to make for a crowd and gets your in-laws dancing pretty quickly.” Win-win. (By Darby Doyle)
Lisa Clark and Erika Radford
BoozyKetones.com @boozyketones
American Pie 75
Ingredients 1 ½ ounces apple-pie infused New World Distilling Oomaw Gin* Squeeze of fresh lemon 2-3 ounces sparkling wine Garnish: Honeycrisp apple slice Process To a champagne flute add the infused gin* and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Fill the glass with sparkling wine and garnish with an apple slice. *To make the infusion: Add 3 sliced Honeycrisp apples to 1 pint of gin in a large glass jar. Seal and let infuse for 2 weeks at room temperature, shaking it whenever you feel the urge. After 2 weeks, add 2 cinnamon sticks; leave at room temperature for another 2 days and then strain out solids. Decant infused gin into a clean pint jar. Sweeten to taste as needed with a sugar-free sweetener. “Our favorites are erythritol, monk fruit drops and stevia glycerite,” Clark says, noting that these natural sugars do not spike insulin nor are they metabolized by the body.
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Darby Doyle
Mighty Bites
Darby Doyle Food and beverage writer Darby Doyle’s blog, aBoubonGal.com, began in 2012 as a way to share her home bar experiments and recipes created for the game meat butchered from her family’s hunting and fishing adventures. Although mostly sidelined for paid professional writing now, Doyle’s passion for quality ingredients and interesting ways to showcase them shines through wherever her words appear. Here, Doyle’s salmon rillettes highlight Alaskan salmon caught by her family and smoked under her watchful eye. “I use a half-and-half combo of smoked fish and fish just barely cooked through in a mild court bouillon for a smooth texture and optimal flavor,” she says. Doyle’s insistence that some kind of fish be on the table for Thanksgiving is handed down from her maternal grandparents. “In addition to the requisite turkey,” Doyle says, “there would be a whole roasted or grilled fish stuffed with lemon and herbs, a creamy fish dip with potato chips or croquettes made from pressure-canned fish that we put up by the dozens of jars every year.” Brought up by the incredible hostesses, amazing home cooks and talented bakers who were her mother and grandmother, Doyle says her style of cooking and entertaining is heavily influenced by them. “From my Grandma Audra Belle,” she says, “I learned all about home economy and creatively using ingredients to minimize waste, especially for food they harvested themselves, like fish and venison.” Doyle notes that rillettes are a terrific way to use up leftover grilled or poached fish, especially “that last few inches toward the salmon’s tail that isn’t as visually appealing but is a shame to waste when it’s so darn delicious.” (By Heather L. King) ABourbonGal.com @abourbongal @darby.doyle
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Salmon (or Trout) Rillettes
Rillettes (pronounced “ree-yets”) are an almost-perfect potluck appetizer. Basically a rough country pate, rillettes are packed into easily transportable jars for both storage and serving. Usually made with wild game, pork or duck, the standard ratios can be easily adapted for fish. They can be kept in the fridge for at least a couple of days—or frozen for up to six months. I made this one from salmon I harvested and smoked following a family fishing trip on the Kenai River in Alaska. It’s also awesome with locally harvested trout. Ingredients 1 large lemon (divided use) 2 tablespoons dry (white) vermouth ⅔ cup water 1 bay leaf 5-6 black peppercorns 4-5 fennel seeds ½ pound fresh salmon or trout, skin and bones removed, cut into ½-inch chunks ½ pound smoked salmon or trout, skin removed, cut into small dice 1 large shallot, diced fine, rinsed under cold water and patted dry ⅓ cup crème fraîche (or sour cream) 4 tablespoons softened butter (plus more, if needed) 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish Salt and pepper to taste Garnish with capers, chives Served with crackers, fresh veggies Process Remove zest of the lemon with a vegetable peeler. Drop 1 swath of peel into a medium saucepan. Finely mince remaining peel and set aside in a small bowl. Juice the lemon, strain and add to the minced peel. Reserve. To the above saucepan, add vermouth and water. Wrap the bay leaf, (cracked) peppercorns and fennel seeds in a square of cheesecloth and knot closed. Drop the bouquet garni (author’s note with eye roll: herb bundle) into the saucepan. Cook over mediumhigh heat until just boiling, reduce heat to a bare simmer. Add the fresh salmon/trout to the saucepan. Stir briefly to prevent clumping. Turn off the heat, top with the lid, and let sit to poach for 10-12 minutes. Strain the poached fish. Remove the bouquet garni. Move the fish to a shallow mixing bowl to cool to room temp (about 15-20 minutes). Once cooled, add the diced smoked fish to the poached fish. Add the reserved lemon juice and zest, prepared shallot, crème fraîche, 4 tablespoons softened butter and horseradish. Smash with a fork to combine until it is just barely a rough spread (not a homogenous goo—think sausage, not hot dog). Add more butter or crème fraîche if needed to make it stick together well. Add salt, pepper and more lemon juice to taste. Pack into glass jars or ceramic ramekins a teaspoon at a time to pack out all air bubbles. If making more than two days in advance, pour a coating of olive oil or softened butter to seal the top of the rillettes against discoloration and spoilage. Refrigerate until ready to serve. 15-20 minutes before serving, set out rillettes to soften at room temp. Garnish with capers, chives and crushed pepper. Serve with crackers and pickled and fresh vegetables as a garnish.
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Jackelin Slack “I want everyone to be able to enjoy my recipes,” says Jackelin Slack of her blog, Salted City, where she emphasizes self-described “health-ish” meals that are mostly plant-based and often have vegan options. “I want it to feel doable, even on a weeknight.” Slack began the blog as an extension of her work as a professional portrait photographer and her love for food. “I wanted to be able to share my recipes and my love affair with food with my friends and the world,” she says, “and what better way to do that than with a blog.” As followers of her social media feeds can attest, her food photography is downright drool-worthy. Her style of cooking is flavor-packed and dynamic, with a nice balance of heat and acid. “I like to infuse my food with spices and herbs for a flavor punch without a lot of fuss,” says Slack. She learned to cook in her mother’s kitchen, a place filled with international flavors and ingredients (her mother is German, and the family immigrated to the U.S. from South America when Slack
Curried Butternut Squash Soup With Coconut Milk Serves: 8 Ingredients 2 tablespoons coconut oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced ¾ teaspoon curry powder ½ teaspoon cumin powder 4 quarter-size pieces of fresh ginger, peeled and minced 4 cups vegetable broth (like Better Than Bouillon) 1 large cooked squash, peeled and cubed (about 4 cups) 1 13½-ounce can coconut milk Garnish: Skillet-toasted Pumpkin seeds*, Fresh cilantro
was young). Fans of Slack’s social media feed can count on her recipes being as simple as they are delicious and appreciate her reliance on low-attentionlevel techniques like roasting and one-pot recipes like stew to make family weeknight meals a snap. “Soup is just so comforting to me,” she says, “and I like starting meals off with soup when the weather turns cold.” Case in point? The fragrant and earthy curried butternut squash soup with coconut milk she shared with our group for the Devour Thanksgiving table. (By Darby Doyle) SaltedCity.com (blog) JackelinSlack.com (photography) @jackelinslack
Process Heat oven to 400*. Rinse and dry the squash. Slice off the ends of the squash and cut in half lengthwise. Place squash face down on a lightly oiled sheet pan and bake for approximately 45 minutes or until flesh is tender when poked with a fork. Allow to cool, scoop out the seeds and peel. Cut the squash into ½-inch cubes. In a large stockpot, sauté the onions on medium-low heat until just barely translucent (4-5 minutes). Add the curry powder, cumin and ginger. Sauté another minute, stirring. Add more oil if it sticks. Add the broth to the onion and spice mixture. Raise heat and bring the broth to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer; simmer about 5-7 minutes. Add the cubed, cooked squash to the broth and simmer another 5-7 minutes. Add the coconut milk and simmer for another minute; remove the soup from the heat. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with sprigs of cilantro and toasted pumpkin seeds. *To toast pumpkin seeds: Place a handful of pumpkin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat. Toss the seeds constantly until they begin to toast and pop.
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Velvet in a Bowl
Jackelin Slack
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The Thrill of the Grill
Aimee L. Cook It’s in Aimee Cook’s blood to cook well and feed a crowd—after all, she’s Italian. Both her mom and dad have cooked professionally but it was her grandmothers—little nonna and big nonna—who taught her the intricacies of Italian cooking. Whether canning, rolling ravioli or making Italian desserts, Cook credits her continued love of feeding friends and family to her lineage of masterful Italians. “We still to this day make a ton of those family recipes,” Cook explains. Preserving her family’s recipes and methods was, in fact, the beginning of Cook’s foray into food writing. In 2012, she and a friend started posting family friendly recipes and photos on their
Blogger site called Eating Thyme. Once she started writing about food professionally for Devour Utah, more publications followed and eventually Eating Thyme ended. But in 2017, Cook created GatherNoshAndSavor. com to once again catalog family recipes as well as share restaurant news and events she learns about while covering food-related topics. “And then I got a Traeger, and it changed my life,” Cook says. Her love of the smoker/oven/grill is well documented online and in print. And it’s the Traeger that creates the star of the Thanksgiving meal—an 18-pound fresh turkey from Utah Natural Meat & Milk (5600 W. 7400 South, West Jordan, 801-896-3276, UtahNaturalMeat.com) Once the turkey is prepped, Cook says, cooking it is a breeze. And the
Aimee L. Cook
results? Picture-perfect golden brown skin and moist, slightly smoky meat. Let the post-Thanksgiving turkey coma begin! (By Heather L. King) GatherNoshAndSavor.com
Aimee L. Cook’s Grilled Turkey
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Grilled Thanksgiving Turkey Serves: 10-12
Ingredients 18-pound fresh turkey (we used a turkey from Utah Natural Meat & Milk) Brine (see below) 1 cup butter, softened 4 coarsely chopped fresh sage leaves Bunch of fresh herbs (thyme, parsley and rosemary) tied with cooking twine for the cavity of the bird Process The day before cooking, brine turkey for 24 hours using a mixture of ½ cup brown sugar and ½ cup kosher salt to 1 gallon of water. When ready to cook, set your Traeger grill (or oven) to 225 degrees and preheat for 15 minutes. Use turkey pellets in the Traeger. Remove turkey from brine and pat dry. Place on a rack for easy removal and put both in a disposable roaster pan to capture juices. Combine softened butter with chopped sage. Prepare the turkey by creating a pocket under the breast skin and stuff the butter/sage mixture underneath. Use about half of the mixture. With the rest of the butter/ sage mixture, cover the entire breast and as much of the rest of the bird you can. Place turkey in the Traeger and smoke until the bird’s internal temperature reaches 110 degrees. Increase temperature to 350 degrees and continue to cook for 3-to-4 hours until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees in the thickest part of the bird. Remove the bird from the grill (or oven) and let rest 15 minutes before carving. The turkey will continue to cook, reaching 165 degrees.
TO MAKE GRAVY
Process Use pan drippings to make gravy. Transfer drippings to a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Make a slurry of flour and water and pour through strainer to remove any lumps while adding to drippings, stirring continually until you reach desired thickness. Cook off any taste of flour for 5-10 minutes on a low simmer. Add salt and pepper if needed.
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SOUP SEASON IS HERE
Warm up with our Bonsai butternut squash soup 801-713-9423 | 5692 S. 900 E. Murray
www.japanesegrill.com
We have moved to the newly restored to glory Historic Eagle Building.
Italian Cuisine 404 South W Temple ´ Salt Lake City, Utah 801-364-8833 ´ www.caffemolise.com
22 Devour Utah • november 2019
@yoshisensogrill
Our Daily Bread
Leslie Shelledy
TheTruthfulTake.com @thetruthfultake
Sourdough stuffing
Serves: 10-12 Ingredients 2 loaves sourdough bread, cut into ½ inch cubes (about 11 cups of diced bread) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 medium yellow onion, diced 5 celery stalks, diced 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, finely diced (about 3 sprigs of rosemary) 1 teaspoon salt (divided use) and ground pepper 1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese 1½ cups chicken stock (plus more if needed) 4 tablespoon butter, cut into 8 small pieces Process Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Rip or cut bread into half-inch cubes. Ask the bakery to slice the bread. Then, tear the bread into bite-size pieces. Alternatively,
“Who doesn’t want to make Thanksgiving Day a bit easier on themselves?” —Leslie Shelledy
you can use a knife for more uniform pieces. Put the diced bread into a large mixing bowl. In a large sauté pan, turn heat to medium and add oil. Add diced onion, diced celery, chopped rosemary, ½ teaspoon salt and pepper. Cook until the onion cooks down and become translucent—about 4 or 5 minutes. Pour onion mixture into bowl that contains the diced bread. Mix thoroughly. Add chicken stock, Parmesan cheese and an additional ½ teaspoon salt to bread mixture. Combine until everything is incorporated. It’s OK if the some of the bread breaks down. Pour stuffing mixture into a greased 9x13 baking dish. If you’re freezing ahead of time, you can split the stuffing evenly between two 9x9 baking dishes, so it fits better into your freezer.*
Place butter pieces on top of stuffing. Bake, uncovered, for about 45-60 minutes or until the top has browned and is crunchy. If the top gets too brown, cover with foil. *If freezing: Once stuffing has cooled, top with a layer of plastic wrap, then top with a layer of foil. Place in the freezer. This stuffing can be made up to two months ahead of Thanksgiving. To thaw, place frozen stuffing in refrigerator the day before Thanksgiving. Notes: Since bread loaves can vary in size, you may only need 1½ loaves of bread. If using stale bread, you may need to use more chicken stock. Check consistency of the bread before placing it into the baking dish. You want it moist with stock but not drenched.
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Leslie Shelledy started The Truthful Take by merging her passions for home cooking, entrepreneurship and lifestyle writing. After the birth of her second child, she was juggling parenting and a full-time job as a publicschool teacher; she started sharing strategies for weeknight meals with her blog followers in a similar boat. “[I wanted to] help busy families create easy, nutritious meals and to rediscover the joy in cooking,” she says. In a world of often over-filtered social media idealism, Shelledy has created a bubble of charming and gracious reality for busy home cooks. Hence, the “truthful” parts of her take on real life. With her emphasis on meal planning, goal setting and honest selfreflection, she says, “The Truthful Take helps other parents struggling with life’s many demands to better manage the journey.” The meal-planning process provides parents with a weekly partner, she says, pointing to herself with a grin, “to help make dinners easy, budget friendly and delicious for all ages.” Shelledy shares shopping lists, tailored recipes and online cooking videos to support her followers. For the Devour potluck, Shelledy shared a stuffing recipe that she first made when eight months pregnant with her second child. Knowing that her time and energy would be limited, she created this make-ahead stuffing that can be refrigerated or frozen in advance. “I’ve made this stuffing several times since,” she says, “even without being pregnant. Who doesn’t want to make Thanksgiving Day a bit easier on themselves?” Amen. (By Darby Doyle)
Devour Utah • november 2019
Mashed and Smashed
Chloe Colette Growing up in California in a home of Spanish, Chinese, Filipino and Portuguese influences, Chloe Colette had the opportunity to eat all different types of food. She was already acting on her interests and talents in middle school, but her love of food and creativity led her to start a blog in 2009. “I had a yaya, which is a Filipino nanny, growing up, and she would not let me cook, only watch,” Colette says. In doing so, she gathered inspiration from her nanny as well as from her great grandmother, whom also lived with her. (Asian families, Colette says, are often multi-generational and live together in the same household). Colette does not just blog about food. She channels her inner Martha Stewart and is an accomplished seamstress, making clothes for both her and her young daughter. Colette is also an avid gardener, and grows most of her own produce. As a home chef, she teaches the art of making various types of paella in her own kitchen. “What is funny is that Italian and Mexican foods are the ones that are exotic to me,” Colette says. She loves trying new cuisines and developing new recipes. “The ultra-creamy mashed potatoes I serve as a side dish at my Thanksgiving table actually came from a family friend named Betty, who brought them to our house when I was kid. We did not have any recipes for mashed potatoes in our house, [so] Betty was always charged with making them. They were the only things I wanted to eat—they were so delicious.” (Aimee L. Cook)
Chloe Colette’s Creamy Gold Potatoes
Chloe-Colette.com @chloecolette
Creamy Gold Potatoes
Serves 8-10 Special tools needed: A potato ricer or food mill fitted with fine disk. Ingredients 4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, any eyes cored out and scrubbed 4 teaspoons sea salt, plus a bit more 1½ cups organic grass-fed whole milk ½ cup organic heavy cream 8 cloves of garlic smashed, no need to remove the skin 5 sprigs rosemary Small handful sage 5 sprigs of thyme
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¾ cup unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into pieces (Colette prefers Kerrygold) Freshly ground black pepper to taste A few stems of fresh chives as garnish Process Place potatoes in a large pot and pour in cold water to cover by about 1 inch. Add a lot of salt—about ½ cup—and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer until potatoes are very tender but not crumbly, about 3035 minutes. Drain, quickly rinse with cool water to remove any excess starchy-ness and return potatoes to warm pot (off heat) to dry while making the milk mixture. Warm the milk, cream, garlic, rosemary,
sage, and thyme in a small saucepan over medium heat until fragrant, about 7 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Pass hot potatoes through ricer or food mill into a large bowl. Do not wait for the potatoes to cool or else they will become gummy. Add butter and 4 teaspoons of salt; stir until butter is completely incorporated. Strain milk mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring glass. Slowly pour a scant cup at a time into the potatoes, stirring after each addition until liquid is fully mixed in. Everything should be super smooth. Add freshly ground pepper and/or chopped chives. Enjoy.
Go Nuts!
Valerie Phillips “Since a lot of Thanksgiving dinner is already a done deal—turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing—I think side dishes are where you can get creative and try something new,” food writer Valerie Phillips says. “If it’s a hit, maybe your side dish will become a family tradition for years to come. If it’s not, oh, well. There are usually lots of other side dishes to choose from, and people can always fill up on mashed potatoes.” Valerie Phillips has been a food writer for more than 20 years. After gleaning knowledge from some of the world’s top chefs, she won several writing awards and published her first book in 2000 as a compilation of her dining series for the Standard Examiner, “Dining Through the Decades.” Having grown up on a farm in Rush Valley, Utah, Phillips learned early on the importance of fresh foods before “farm to table” was even a thing. She has gone on to provide shortcut techniques for home cooks in hopes of taking the complications out of homemade. “One of my pet peeves is portentous food,” said Phillips. “Sometimes it seems they will take a bunch of expensive ingredients and put them into one dish, and I believe, less can be more, it does not need to try that hard to be good. (Aimee L. Cook) ChewAndChat.com @chewandchat55
“If it’s a hit, maybe your side dish will become a family tradition for years to come.” —Valerie Phillips
Ingredients 8 red garnet sweet potatoes 1½ cups apple juice or apple cider ¼ cup brown sugar (white sugar will do in a pinch) ¼ cup (½ stick) butter 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1½ teaspoons cinnamon Topping: 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon ½ cup chopped pecans Process Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a 2 quart (or larger) microwaveable casserole dish, heat the apple juice, sugar, butter, salt, pepper and cinnamon in the microwave for
2 minutes, or until the butter is completely melted. Stir to mix well. Peel and slice the sweet potatoes into ¼-inch slices, placing them in the casserole dish as you go. Stir to coat all the slices with the apple juice liquid. Cover with lid and microwave on high for 15 minutes, or until the sweet potatoes are tender. Remove from the microwave and stir to evenly coat the slices with the liquid. Mix together the brown sugar, cinnamon and chopped pecans. Sprinkle over the top and bake, uncovered, in the oven at 400 degrees for 10 minutes. (Or microwave an additional 5 minutes, uncovered.) Serves 12-16 people. Chef’s Note: This dish is cooked in the microwave, a bonus when Thanksgiving Day oven space is usually limited due to turkey roasting and pie baking. I recommend baking the last 10 minutes in the oven, to toast the pecans. This dish can be easily transported and reheated.
Valerie Phillips
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Apple Cinnamon Sweet Potatoes With Pecans
Devour Utah • november 2019
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The Point of Pancetta
Heather King SLC Lunches was launched in 2010 as a way for Heather King to return to food writing after she took a short hiatus. It was also an outlet for her to share lunches she enjoyed at numerous client meetings. In 2012, she also began posting her own recipe creations to the Examiner internet site as part of its Fresh Foods section. As a food writer, Heather says having multiple ways to share food stories is a necessity. “I love cooking, but following a recipe is difficult for me, which is why I cannot bake,” King says. “I will consult several recipes, pull out all the things I like from them and merge a recipe together. I do a lot of testing, and without measuring, it is difficult for me to re-create recipes.” The Fresh Food became a reference for her to use as her personal recipe book. King still enjoys eating out, and you can find current restaurant news and information on her website. She is also a restaurant critic and food writer for The Salt Lake Tribune as well as an avid traveler whose journeys play an important role in inspiring content on her food blog. “So much about food is the actual experience—visiting the places and understanding why that food was created, or what the history behind it is, going back to the roots—makes me understand how foods came to be,” King says. “It makes me try and be true to the foods that I make.” Her Brussels sprouts have been a staple on her Thanksgiving table for the past seven years. No other green vegetable has won a seat at her table— why mess with perfection? (Aimee L. Cook)
“I will consult several recipes, pull out all the things I like from them, and merge a recipe together.” —Heather King
SLCLunches.com @slclunches
Much of the prep work for this dish can be done in advance and then made and served hot from the stovetop. This recipe is easily doubled or tripled. (Serves 4) Ingredients 24 small-to-medium raw Brussels sprouts, halved 2 slices of pancetta, cubed and crisped 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons butter (or 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon rendered fat from pancetta) ½ of a white onion, thinly diced 2 garlic cloves, minced ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
Process Clean and cut the Brussels sprouts. Place in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high for 2-3 minutes until steamed through. Set aside. In a medium pan, partially render the pancetta. Drain and set aside. Adding to the renderings from the pancetta, melt the butter. Saute the onion and garlic until lightly browned. Add the Brussels sprouts and stir thoroughly. Add the apple cider vinegar and toss to coat well. Season with salt and pepper. Add the pancetta to warm and cook through. Add the Parmesan cheese to melt. Stir until warmed through. Can be kept on the stovetop on low, stirring occasionally until ready to serve.
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Apple Cider Brussels Sprouts
Devour Utah • november 2019
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nt
Rice Is Nice
Neena Panicker “What I love about Thanksgiving is that it’s a holiday that’s tailor-made to bring family, friends, cultures and cuisines together,” says Neena Panicker, founder of the blog and YouTube channel Paint The Kitchen Red. “It’s like a fusion holiday. You can make your own traditions and borrow from others.” Panicker takes a similar international cuisine viewpoint when developing recipes, which for her blog are made specifically for Instant Pot cooking. “I have many Instant Pot how-to guides that are especially helpful to new users,” says Panicker. “Every Instant Pot recipe includes detailed stepby-step instructions and photos for multiple models.” Panicker started her blog with a general focus on family-favorite, stove-top recipes developed during her stay-at-home mom years. Within six months of starting
the blog, she bought her first Instant Pot, but she found the manufacturer’s user guide confusing. So, she decided to create and post her own guide. Says Panicker, “The response was so great that I posted an Instant Pot adaptation of my mom’s chicken curry.” She continues, “That was so well-received, I posted another, and then another, and now I’m an ‘Instant Pot Blogger’!” Readers of Panicker’s blog come back for her detailed instructions and thoroughly researched and tested recipes. “I am very picky about what recipes I post on my blog. If my family says, ‘It’s OK’ or ‘Not bad,’ or ‘Pretty good,’ then I won’t post the recipe.” She says with a big grin, “They have to love it.” There’s a lot to love about Panicker’s hearty wild rice dish made in the Instant Pot, freeing up room on the stovetop and oven on a busy Thanksgiving Day. (By Darby Doyle)
Neena Panicker
PaintTheKitchenRed.com @paintthekitchenred
Instant
Instant Pot Wild Rice Pilaf With Pecans & Cranberries
Process Select ‘Sauté’ mode and allow the Instant Pot to heat up. Melt butter in the Instant Pot inner pot and sauté onion, celery, garlic and mushrooms until onions start to become transparent. Stir in salt, black pepper, thyme, sage, rosemary and crushed red pepper. Deglaze with white wine, stirring to remove any brown bits. Stir in broth and balsamic vinegar. Finally, add in the wild rice blend. Don’t stir, just push the rice down with a spatula to make sure the rice is submerged in the liquid. Close the Instant Pot lid and set the steam
release to ‘Sealing’. Pressure cook on ‘High’ for 26 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally for 12 minutes and then release any remaining pressure by setting the steam release handle to the ‘Venting’ position. Once the float valve is down, open the lid and fluff the rice with a fork. If there is extra liquid at the bottom, it should get absorbed as the rice rests. If not, turn on ‘Sauté’ mode and heat for a couple of minutes to let the liquid evaporate. Stir in pecans, cranberries and apple. Garnish with parsley. [Note: This recipe can be made into a onepot meal by stirring in pieces of rotisserie chicken or leftover turkey at the end.]
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Ingredients 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup onion, chopped 1 cup celery, chopped 2 teaspoon garlic, minced 2 cups mushrooms, sliced ¾ teaspoon salt (or to taste) 1 teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 teaspoon ground sage ½ teaspoon dried rosemary ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper (or to taste) 2 tablespoons white wine 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth 2 cups wild rice blend (such as Lundberg) ½ cup toasted pecans, chopped ½ cup dried cranberries ½ cup green apple, peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped (to garnish)
Devour Utah • november 2019
Kneady No More
Annalise Sandberg Professional blogger and baker Annalise Sandberg is the woman behind CompletelyDelicious.com, one of the longest running food blogs in Utah. Her blogging journey began in 2005 as food blogs and The Food Network were just becoming popular. “I’m not sure how I stumbled upon my passion for baking,” recalls Sandberg. “Suddenly I was buying cookbooks and surfing the web for recipes and ideas. I started baking all sorts of delicious things—from scratch.” She started posting her recipes and slowly but surely gained a loyal following. “Besides a very brief experience in culinary school, I am almost completely self taught,” she continues. “Most things I’ve figured out for myself, learning by trial and error. I hope to inspire other people out there to let anyone know they can bake.” With Thanksgiving being one of her favorite holidays, Sandberg shares one of her most meaningful recipes. “Everyone needs a go-to roll recipe, especially one that’s easy to throw together,” says Sandberg, who finds these especially ideal because there’s no mixer required and they can be prepared in advance or in between other feast essentials. Handed down from her mom, Sandberg’s garlic herb crescent rolls pair perfectly with the holiday roasted turkey and everything else on the table. “I’m not sure where the name ‘fairy rolls’ came from, but I assume it has to do with their light and fluffy texture,” she says of her rolls. “Our family has been enjoying these little pillows of heaven for as long as I can remember,” she says. “During the holiday season, my mom made them by the sheet pan, and you’d be surprised at how quickly they all disappear.” (By Heather L. King)
“Everyone needs a go-to roll recipe, especially one that’s easy to throw together.” —Annalise Sandberg
CompletelyDelicious.com @completelydelicious
No-Knead Garlic Herb Crescent Rolls
Makes 24 rolls Ingredients Rolls 1 cup warm water 2¼ teaspoon (1 envelope) active dry yeast ½ cup butter, melted and cooled ⅓ cup granulated sugar 1 large egg 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon chopped herbs, like rosemary and thyme Additional butter, for brushing Garlic-Herb Butter ¼ cup butter, melted 1 garlic clove, minced 1 teaspoon chopped herbs, like rosemary and thyme
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Process Combine the water and yeast and allow to sit for 5 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the yeast mixture, butter, sugar and egg. Add the flour, salt, garlic, and herbs and stir until just combined. Dough will be soft. Cover dough with a towel and allow to rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Dump out onto a well-floured surface, work the dough into a smooth ball with your hands, and knead it a few times. Split the ball of dough into 2 equal pieces and put ½ back in the bowl. Roll out the other half on a floured surface to about 12 inches in diameter. Cut into 12 equal triangles. Starting with the fat end, roll up each triangle and place in a greased sheet pan. Repeat with the other half of dough. Cover the baking pan with a towel and let rise for an additional 20-30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake rolls until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Combine butter, garlic and herbs and brush onto hot rolls. Rolls will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
It’s Like Buttah
Christina Lakey Food has always been a way for Christina Lakey’s family to connect. She began taking cooking classes from renowned chef Adalberto Diaz of Fillings & Emulsions in 2006 with her two sisters in an attempt to distract herself from her husband’s deployment while also serving to up their cooking game. This led to family members hosting a monthly dinner on a rotating basis. The tradition lives on today with nearby siblings. Out of their love of food, food styling and cooking, Lakey and her sister-in-law, Tammy Blankenship, launched a food blog in 2013. “We love to gather and eat,” Lakey said. “We love trying new stuff,
and it is so fun to think about how it has connected us for all these years. The food blog came about after my sister-in-law moved away. Her outlet was cooking when she was so far away from everyone, so she and I could talk about cooking and cookbooks all the time.” Lakey loves to talk technique, where to dine out and home cooking. She finds inspiration in following chefs who create layers of flavor and who make good food that is not overly complicated. “So many cranberry dishes are overly sweet to me; this one has a savory side of ginger and green onions. It’s a very unique dish,” Lakey says. “Sometimes I even put some on my mashed potatoes—it really goes with anything.” (Aimee L. Cook) FoodApparel.com @foodapparel
Cranberry Chutney
Overnight Crockpot Plum Butter
Ingredients 1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil 5 green onions white parts finely chopped, approximately top ⅓ greens sliced and set aside One 12-ounce bag fresh or frozen cranberries ⅔ cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons apple-cider vinegar 1 teaspoon garlic, minced 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, peeled and minced ½ teaspoon salt
Process Place plums in crockpot with a little water. Simmer on low heat for about 1 to 2 hours, stirring about every 30 minutes to encourage the plums to break up. Once plums have broken up well, give mixture one last good stir to make sure it is evenly distributed in the crockpot. Cook overnight (about 8 to 10 hours) on low heat (no need to stir during this time). Stir mixture again. Add brown sugar and spices. Pour mixture into blender (or use an immersion blender) and puree until smooth. If desired, add a little more water to thin to your desired consistency, and blend in well. The best way I can describe the consistency is a velvety butter that spreads quite easily, but is not at all runny. Pour into quart-size jars and enjoy over bread, meat, dumplings—you name it!
Christina Lakey
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Process In a large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add the white parts of the chopped green onion to the saucepan and cook for about 3 minutes, until starting to soften. Add all remaining ingredients and stir together. Simmer, uncovered for about 10 minutes or until berries “pop” and mixture starts to slightly thicken. Remove from heat. Add remaining green onion tops and stir to incorporate. (You can save a few to throw on as a last-minute garnish for serving as well). Allow to cool or serve warm. Make ahead: This chutney stores for up to a week.
(Course Spread) Ingredients 3½ to 4 pounds plums, skins left on: washed, sliced in half and pitted ¼ to ½ cup water (may not be needed; see notes) 1 cup brown sugar packed 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground cardamom
Devour Utah • november 2019
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Gettin’ Jammy
Caroline Hargraves “One of my favorite ways to enjoy my time is with a cup of hot coffee, a pile of graph paper and a good pen, and an absolute heap of cookbooks,” says professional food photographer, food writer and baker Caroline Hargraves (formerly baker at The Daily and Copper Common, for which she still does photography). “Of course, there are plenty of times where you just need to put food on the table, but when I really cook, I want every step from the first sip of wine to getting the last dish scrubbed clean to be an act of love.” She continues, “both to feed my own soul and to share that devotion with the friends and family I cook for.” I like to think of Hargraves as the Nigella Lawson of the Wasatch front. Hargraves especially appreciates how sharing food experiences through words and photographs brings passion to the page or the screen: “... food writing can capture that spirit of love and generosity and provide a way to share that with a much broader audience over years and decades, rather than a single shared meal.” For the Devour bloggers’ potluck, Hargraves chose to make a decadent fruit pie featuring the humble plum. “Why should peaches get all of the stone fruit love?” she says with a big laugh. “The tart, jammy depth of a good plum is such a nice transition into the colder seasons.” And of this pie rich with texture and contrast she says, “vibrant plum filling interspersed between salty, buttery, oaty crumble here and sweet, faintlyspiced cream cheese there ... it’s got all the good things happening.” It does, indeed. (By Darby Doyle)
“When I really cook, I want every step from the first sip of wine to getting the last dish scrubbed clean to be an act of love.” —Caroline Hargraves
CarolineHargraves.com @salttoothslc
Crust Ingredients (makes 2 discs) 2½ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 pound butter, cold 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 cup cold water Process Combine flour, salt and sugar. Cut butter into ¼-½-inch cubes, toss into flour mixture and pinch and scrunch butter into sheets to combine. Combine apple cider vinegar and water. Scatter over and toss into flour mixture a few tablespoons at a time until dough just holds together when you squeeze a handful. Divide into 2 discs. Refrigerate at least half an hour or up to 4 days. Oaty Crumble Ingredients 2 sticks butter - browned and fully cooled 1 cup rolled oats 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom Process Mix together oats, brown sugar, flour, salt, cinnamon, and cardamom. Add chilled butter and pinch/squeeze butter into dry mix until no visible butter remains and mixture resembles pebble-sized clumps. Plum Filling Ingredients 3½ pounds (about 12) ripe plums, sliced 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ cup dark brown sugar, divided ¼ cup granulated sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup tapioca starch (or potato starch, or arrowroot powder) 10 tablespoons cream cheese, at room temperature ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
Process Mix together the cream cheese, cinnamon, cardamom, and ¼ cup of the brown sugar in a bowl until combined; set aside. In a separate large bowl toss together plums, lemon juice, remaining ¼ cup of brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, and tapioca starch. Assembly and Baking Preheat oven to 350 degrees. On a lightly floured surface, roll 1 disc of pie dough into a 12-13-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie tin and crimp edges as desired. Spread cream cheese mixture onto pie dough and then add fruit mixture in an even layer, leaving behind any excess liquid. Top with oat crumble. Place pie onto a parchment or foil-lined baking sheet. Cover rim of pie with a strip of foil. Bake approximately 80 minutes until juices are bubbling in center. Remove strip of foil in the last 10-20 minutes of baking. If the topping or crust begin to brown too deeply, cover with foil and check intermittently. Allow to set and cool for 4 hours before slicing. ❖
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Oaty Plum Crumble Pie
Devour Utah • november 2019
the
Spread
Oquirrh Restaurant
STORY AND PHOTOS BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
Oquirrh Restaurant
I
n the cozy, natural light-filled downtown digs of Oquirrh, the mix of comfort-meets-modern is reflected not only in the aesthetic of the new restaurant but in its thoughtfully crafted menu. “We wanted to do something very localized—something from the heart,” says chef Andrew Fuller, who owns the restaurant with his wife Angie. “We have been labeled as fine dining by other outlets, but I don’t really see it that way. We do serve nice food, lots of local and organic goods, so our prices match what we put into the food, but in terms of the service and atmosphere, it is pretty casual.” Oquirrh—named for the oft-overlooked mountain range forming the west side of Salt Lake Valley—opened its small but beautiful space in February after a two-year search for the perfect location. Andrew previously worked at the Copper Onion (where he met Angie), served as the chef de cuisine at Pago and helped open nearby HSL. Angie brings experience in food and beverage management and frontof-house operations at Hotel Park City, Post Office Place and the Copper Onion. With the help of local creatives, the Fullers designed an atmosphere that is
34 Devour Utah • november 2019
elevated yet comfortable. Crisp white walls are contrasted with a blue-gray wainscot and feature a rotating collection of art, currently the work of painter Kirsten Merinda. The plates and bowls are made by local ceramicist Zach Braman. But the centerpiece of the restaurant is the blackand-white patterned tile bar with a smooth walnut top. “We definitely went for a clean and crisp look,” says Angie. “We had fun with our friend and designer, Jeff Landry, who doesn’t normally do restaurants, but he put some love into it with us.” The menu features a handful of unique small plates, but a fan favorite is the starter known simply as “Carrots.” “We reimagined this dish from my time at Pago, and it’s made entirely of carrots,” Andrew says. The base of the dish is a roasted carrot puree topped with baby carrots braised in carrot juice, sliced raw carrots and misocured carrots. The carrot juice is then reduced to a vinaigrette to drizzle on top. The leftover pulp from the carrot juice is folded with brown rice to make carrot crackers for texture. Finally, the dish is dolloped with carrot-top pesto and fried carrot tops.
It’s this attention to detail and ingredients that makes the dishes at Oquirrh special, including the much-loved duck entree, which evolves with the seasons. Currently, a duck breast and roulade are served atop a sourdough pancake—made from the same in-house starter used to make the bread—mixed with corn and green onions. Mushrooms and kale round out the dish, which is drizzled with a huckleberry jus. As an ode to his childhood and his “mother’s night off” meal, Andrew put an elevated chicken pot pie on the menu. “It was something that reminds me of growing up, but we wanted to do a really proper French-style version with a nice pastry and presented dramatically with the bone sticking out of it,” Andrew says. “The Oquirrh Mountains are often overlooked or underappreciated because the Wasatch Mountain Range is taller and more dramatic. It gets all of the attention,” Andrew says. “With the name Oquirrh, it’s a nod to our smaller mom-and-pop approach to representing the Salt Lake Valley.” ❖ Oquirrh Restaurant 368 E. 100 South, SLC 801-359-0426 OquirrhSLC.com
The Home Cooking Issue
Oquirrh’s inspired carrot dish
A duck breast and roulade on a sourdough pancake
Oquirrh’s take on a chicken pot pie
Devour Utah • november 2019 35
The Green Scene
BRING THE PARTY
Gifts for the vegan (and all food lovers) in your life BY AMANDA ROCK
T
he secret to gift giving is to give something you’re tempted to keep for yourself. The reason why is simple—we don’t splurge on fancy olive oil, flavored salt from Italy and top-shelf liquor for ourselves nearly enough! It’s going to be really hard to give these delicious gifts away, so be sure to buy for yourself—you deserve it. These gifts keep on giving and make each meal something special. Located in historic Trolley Square, We Olive (602 E. 500 South, SLC, 801-448-7489, WeOlive. com/salt-lake-city) offers an abundance of gourmet, vegan-friendly gifts. Assemble your own gift basket, picking and choosing from the artisan extra-virgin olive oils from California, flavored vinegars and gourmet sauces and dips. They’ll even shrink wrap your basket for you. Or, choose from prepared gift boxes, packaged and ready to go. The Olive Oil & Vinegar Experience Sampler Gift Box ($29.95) includes 2-ounce bottles of their most popular items: Organic Meyer lemon olive oil, fresh garlic olive oil, Arbequina extra virgin olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, and peach white balsamic vinegar. Their smaller gifts are ideal for neighbors and co-workers, and for keeping
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on hand for those surprise gift exchanges you didn’t see coming. For $10, you can choose from a variety of olive oils and vinegars, paired with a recipe card. While the recipe may not be vegan, it can serve as inspiration. I purchased the blood orange olive oil and traditional aged balsamic that came with a recipe for cranberry orange crostini. All you’d need to do to make this dish vegan is swap out the goat cheese for a vegan soft cheese. You could even gift this with your favorite fancy vegan cheese! Most people think “meat and cheese” when it comes to Caputo’s Market (multiple locations, Caputos.com). But the deli also has shelves of tasty vegan options perfect for a gift basket, from pasta and sauce imported from Italy to a mind-boggling collection of fine chocolate, preserved vegetables, a stunning array of flavorful bitters and olive oils and vinegars. Plus, they will help assemble and wrap the baskets. An item you likely won’t find in other stores is Hellenic Farms Fig Salami ($9.99), made from Greek figs, that pairs beautifully with your favorite vegan cheese and crackers. It comes in pistachio, smoked paprika and Aleppo pepper, and orange zest and Aleppo pepper. For something pre-
packaged, the Casina Rossa Gourmet Salt 6-pack ($21.99) makes a thoughtful gift. Small jars of salt combined with truffle, fennel, fiori (flavored with wild orange peel and pretty, edible flowers), porcini and herbs are stacked in a plastic tube—all it needs is a bow! For those in the market for something unusual and delicious, look no farther than Waterpocket Distillery (2084 W. 2200 South, West Valley City, 385-202-5725, Waterpocket. co). A bottle of Notom herbal liqueur is an unexpected and welcome gift, whether you’re bringing the bottle to share after dinner, or giving it as a present. Served neat and chilled, this digestif warms the throat and stomach with peppermint, anise and galanga (which gives Thai food its zing). The holiday season is the perfect time to share your enthusiasm for how delicious and easy it is to be vegan. Stop by a local Harmons (HarmonsGrocery.com) and pick up a City Cakes treat to bring to dinner, work or to a friend’s party. Choose from vegan brownies ($3), donuts ($8), chocolate or vanilla cake ($11) or lemon coconut and carrot cake ($12). These all happen to be gluten-free, too. ❖
Open everyday for breakfast & lunch!
Cottonwood Heights Cafe 7146 Highland Dr. | 801-947-0760 Open 7:00am-2:30pm
New Location!
Devour Utah • november 2019 37
Reason for the
Season DREAMSTIME IMAGE
Why pumpkin spice gets a whole latte love BY MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON
othing announces fall like the warm aroma of pumpkin spice wafting through the air from shops, restaurants, home kitchens and chilly morning commuters with their steaming hot Starbucks’ pumpkinspice lattes in hand. A blend of cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cloves and allspice, pumpkin spice aromatizes everything from soup to nuts, cookies to cocktails, pies and pastries, beer and sodas, lotions and candles, even Spam. People just can’t get enough of it this time of year. A little history: The pumpkin is a cultivar of a squash plant, Cucurbita pepo, that originated in the Americas and has been used for thousands of years. During the Industrial Revolution, city dwellers became nostalgic for the country life they’d left behind. Pickyour-own pumpkin patches and festivals helped make the pumpkin a symbol of idealized American country farm life. Thank goodness someone came up with the bright idea to make bland pumpkin pulp more appealing using yummy spices. In 1926, an ad for pumpkin-pie spice appeared in Bakers Review. McCormick & Co. sold the blend in the 1950s and in the
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’60s, the name got shortened to “pumpkin spice.” A Colorado coffee company called Purple Mountain Coffee served a pumpkin-pie latte in 2002, and Starbucks introduced the PSL as a seasonal menu item in 2003. Nostalgia and desire for the flavor and scent drive the seasonal popularity of the spice blend along with the urgency created by what the industry calls an LTO (limitedtime offering), which is the marketing strategy that Starbucks uses. Want to make a batch of your own pumpkin spice? It’s easy, just blend the following: • 3 tablespoons ground cinnamon • 2 tablespoons ground ginger • 2 tablespoons ground nutmeg • 1½ tablespoons ground allspice • 1½ tablespoons ground cloves Some recipes add a bit of white pepper, vanilla, pinch of cardamom, anise, fenugreek or coffee.
2016 and July 2017, an increase of $286 million from the same period in 2013. If you already have pumpkin spice in your cupboard, you can join the craze with DIY home projects and recipes. Here are just a few ways to use pumpkin spice: • Add to apricot or apple crumble and top with whipped cream • Use it to flavor carrot and squash soups and purees • Mix into a mango or pumpkin and banana smoothie • Add to hot cocoa and use pumpkin spice liqueur (recipe below) in whipped cream on top rather than vanilla. • Mix it into carrot cake batter and/or frosting • Add it to banana bread • Use it to make glazed nuts • Mix into granola • Include the liqueur or spice in cocktails and coffees
Clearly, the pumpkin spice business is booming. The New York Times reported that the national sales of pumpkin-flavored items reached $414 million between July
’Tis the season to include pumpkin spice in your cooking and celebrations and give as gifts or party favors. Here are recipes to celebrate the noble spice blend.
Jewelry for every occasion
Custom design, in house work, jewelry repair, high quality diamonds, engagement rings. 801-583-2700 | 1346 S. 2100 E. SLC, UT www.redfordjewelers.com
Devour Utah • november 2019 39
Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Cookies Ingredients ½ cup melted sweet cream butter ½ cup pumpkin puree ½ cup sugar ¼ cup brown sugar 1 tablespoon molasses 1½ teaspoons vanilla DREAMSTIME IMAGE
2 cups flour 2 teaspoons pumpkin spice 2 teaspoons baking soda ¼ teaspoons salt 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
Vegan Pumpkin Bread: Makes 3 loaves Ingredients 4 cups flour 3 cups whole wheat flour 4 cups light brown sugar 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons nutmeg
Process Cream first five ingredients together in mixer with paddle. Sift dry ingredients together, Add to wet ingredients; mix well. Form cookies using ice cream scoop (2- 4 ounces, depending on desired size). Bake on lined cookie sheet at 350 degrees for 12-13 minutes.
2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 teaspoons pumpkin spice 1 teaspoon clove powder 2 15-ounce cans of pumpkin puree 2 cups safflower oil ¾ cups maple syrup ¾ cups water
Process Sift dry ingredients above together. Mix remaining 4 wet ingredients and add to dry mix. Optional: Add chopped walnuts or pumpkin seeds and/or vegan chocolate chips. Pour into greased and lined pans and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
—Courtesy of Moonflower Community Cooperative
Sources for Quality Spices and Supplies Spoons ’N Spice 2274 S. 1300 East. Ste. G9, SLC 801-263-1898 SpoonsNSpice.com Penzeys Spices 280 E. 12300 South, Draper 801-666-7557 Penzeys.com
Industrial Container 1845 S. 5200 West, SLC 800-748-4250 IndustrialContainer.com Liberty Heights Fresh 1290 S. 1100 East, SLC 801-583-7374 LibertyHeightsFresh.com
Good Earth Multiple locations GoodEarthNaturalFoods. com
Lee’s Marketplace 2645 N. Washington Blvd., North Ogden | 801-782-7800 LeesMarketplace.com/ Ogden
Harmons HarmonsGrocery.com
Mountain Rose Herbs MountainRoseHerbs.com
40 Devour Utah • november 2019
DREAMSTIME IMAGE
DREAMSTIME IMAGE
—Courtesy of Moonflower Community Cooperative
Pumpkin Spice Liqueur: Makes 4 cups Ingredients 1 teaspoon whole cloves 1 teaspoon whole allspice ¾ teaspoon white pepper 4 cinnamon sticks 1 whole nutmeg One 2-inch piece ginger, thinly sliced 2½ cups vodka 2 cups sugar 1 cup water
Process In a small skillet, toast the clove, allspice, white pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg over medium heat until fragrant, 2 minutes. Transfer to a sealable quart jar with the ginger and pour in the vodka. Seal and steep for 2 days, shaking the jar every 12 hours. After 2 days, strain out the solids and transfer them to a small saucepan with the sugar and water. Bring to simmer and cook until the sugar dissolves, 2
minutes. Let cool completely. Strain the syrup into the jar with the infused vodka and shake to combine. Serve on the rocks, in a cup of coffee or stirred into your favorite cocktails. Another idea is to poach pears in pumpkin spice liqueur and serve with a dollop of crème fraiche with a sprinkling of the spice blend on top or use the liqueur for any cake that requires a flavorful soak.
—Source: Tasting Table Test Kitchen, TastingTable.com
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Best BBQ West of the Mississippi! • Butcher Shop offering the World’s Highest Beef Grade • King’s Treats beef and pork bones for the four-legged kids • Free drinks and bread with BBQ purchase! Closed Dec. 20th - Jan. 31st
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Funerals weddings Mon- Sat 8-6:45 Sunday 10-5 9275 S 1300 W 801-562-5496 glovernursery.com
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801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South finecandies.com 42 Devour Utah • november 2019
READER GIVEAWAYS Holiday Gift Guide and Giveaway
NOV. 1 THRU DEC. 15
During the months of November and December, you can enter to win beautiful prizes from local shops and restaurants featured here in our special Gift Guide section. Visit devourutah.com and sign up for Devour Utah’s newsletter to get weekly updates on prizes.
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1. 3 Cups
Three Cups is committed to providing the highest quality coffee, delicious food, and gracious customer service. We believe in creating an enriching atmosphere for our customers to enjoy that is aesthetically pleasing, clean and filled with a friendly, knowledgeable staff who are helpful and willing to educate our customers about what we serve. We value quality over quantity and have a desire to support the local industries and people in our community. 4760 S. Holladay Village Plaza #104 Holladay, UT 84117 385-237-3091 3cups.coffee
2. Arempa’s
12 years in the making and finally we are able to provide Sandy’s famous food to the public! Taste influence from both Colombia & Venezuela, Sandy has combined both flavors along with a hint of American taste to bring the beloved “AREMPAS” to life in the heart of downtown Salt Lake City. Arepas, empanadas & patacon are some of the staples of the Venezuelan culture! A place to impress your date, bring the family together and to continue a late night out with friends! 350 S. State St. Salt Lake City, UT 84111 385-301-8905 arempas.com
3 The Brickyard Bar
Formerly Lumpy’s Highland location, The Brickyard Bar has kept the charm and neighborhood bar feeling, yet updated its appearance and menu to appeal to a downtown crowd without having to go downtown. With a menu designed by and award wining chef, an ever expanding liquor and craft beer selection, and a premium TV setup, we are confident you will enjoy your drinks, food, and sports at The Brickyard Bar. 3000 S. Highland Dr. Salt Lake City, UT 84106 thebrickyardbar.com
4. Carmines
This is Italia at its finest. Finally an Italian restaurant in Utah where you can enjoy the best Italy has to offer in food, wine and service. Carmine’s offers full service catering for weddings, anniversaries, company gatherings and any other occasion where quality food, service and attention to detail is desired. 2477 Fort Union Blvd. Salt Lake City, UT 84121 801-948-4468 carmines.restaurant
5. Holystone Distilling
Holystone Distilling is a unique, artisan distillery where we turn the extraordinary into the exceptional. Our awardwinning, ultra-premium spirits are handmade with passion, patience and skill. Tastings • Tours • Retail • Bottle Sales 207 W. 4860 South Murray, UT 84107 385-800-2580 holystonedistilling.com
6. Kathmandu
The Kathmandu on Highland opened nearly a decade ago, and has been a family owned business for the last three years. The owner, Yubara j Sapkota, opened new location on September 2018 on 250 West 2100 South. The second location is located closer to the I-15 on 2100 south and easy accessible to people in Utah who are craving for some authentic Indian and Nepali cuisine! Multiple Locations thekathmandu.net
7. Park City Culinary Institute
A great culinary school teaches technique. You can see the results by looking at what the students can accomplish after their program. Certain items are easy to make without much technique, like muffins. You might develop a better recipe, you might even have a better way to present them. But at the end of the day, a muffin is still a muffin, and it’s pretty hard to mess up a muffin. I certainly wouldn’t want to go culinary school to learn how to make a muffin. When we look at what we’re going to teach, we focus on skills that create memorable results. We spend the time going over the science of how things work. We want our graduates to develop techniques. That’s what sets our graduates apart from other people in the industry. Our graduates develop meaningful skills, and can create memorable results. 1484 S. State St. Salt Lake City, UT 84115 801-413-2800 parkcityculinaryinstitute.com
8. Seaquest Utah
Gift unforgettable memories this holiday season with a gift card to SeaQuest Layton! For a limited time, purchase a $50 Gift Card for just $40! See, Touch, Feed 1200 animals at SeaQuest Layton. 1201 N. Hill Field Road #1072 Layton, UT 84041 801-544-4938 utah.visitseaquest.com
Devour Utah • november 2019 43
3
THINGS WE
LOVE n o i it d E rvest Ha
BY CAIT LEE AND MIKA LEE
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4 1
Fellow Stagg EKG Kettle Gooseneck, timer, temperature for tea and coffee, a hold feature so you never have to wait for hot water again: Modern technology, meet the kettle. Perfect for tea and pour-over coffee, and featuring an adjustable dial for temperature and an easy builtin timer for steeping, this foolproof kettle may be smarter than the average tea and coffee brewer. ($149) Tea Zaanti, 1324 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-9068132, TeaZaanti.com
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Cocktails 2 Vaportini Spicing up your favorite
drink isn’t limited only to neat, on the rocks or shaken-not-stirred. For a new way to take in your 5 o’clock indulgence, Vaportini is a device that allows you to inhale the most intoxicating flavors (and, yes, it is still intoxicating). It’s all the best parts about drinking a tasty libation without the calories. Best enjoyed with flavored spirits or your go-to smoky whiskey. ($49.99) Boozetique and E3 Modern, 315 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-363-3939, BoozetiqueSLC.com,
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Cakelet Bundt Pan 3 Beehive Fall spices of cinnamon,
honey and nutmeg are the perfect complement to the seasonal hot drink. Create your own spiced honey cakes with these adorable mini beehives, uniquely relevant to this Beehive State. Nordic Ware’s sturdy material and thick bakeware won’t bend or warp with heat, meaning you could be baking beehive teacakes for your children and family for years to come. Optional giant beehive bundt cake is also available. Bakers not included. ($35.99) Orson H. Gygi Co., 3500 S. 300 West, SLC, 801-268-3316, Gygi.com
Good Grips 4 OXO Compost Bin
This chic compost bin easily sits on any cook’s counter, perfect for holding table scraps, egg shells, tea bags, plant prunings as well as vegetable and fruit peelings. Holds up to ¾ gallon of organic waste until you have time to empty it in your outdoor composter. Made of plastic with a flip lid that locks in odors, say goodbye to compost smells wafting through the kitchen and ruining your meal. Easy to carry and great for Mother Earth. ($19.99) Bed, Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, BedBathAndBeyond.com.
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Barbecue Issue
Plate it
Thistle and Thyme’s cranberry relish
A
PHOTOS AND STORY BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
s one who spends all day in the kitchen on any given T-Day, it’s hard to imagine, well, relaxing on Thanksgiving. But the way Thistle and Thyme does Turkey Day, the idea of sitting back and indulging in classics with creative twists sounds like an excellent change of pace. Thistle & Thyme puts together a decadent buffet for the holiday, but no plate would be complete without a hearty helping of roasted turkey, mashed potatoes and broccolini, drizzled in gravy and accented with a delightfully complex cranberry relish. In fact, according to executive chef Matt Tauszik, it’s the cranberry relish that really brings this dish to life. “We start by reducing a local apple cider
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from Santaquin, Utah, with ingredients like fresh ginger, shallots, thyme, sage, bay leaf, Madagascar vanilla extract, orange zest and juice, salt and pink peppercorns,” Tauszik says. When the mixture has reduced to a syrupy consistency, he adds in most of the cranberries — reserving some whole to add at the end for texture—and the brown sugar. The cranberries are cooked down until soft, then blended. “It’s a lot more complex than your standard cranberry sauce,” Tauszik says. “If you try it, you get the tartness of the cranberries balanced out with the sweetness of the brown sugar and the apple cider.” But the ingredient that Tauszik credits for
really elevating the dish is the Madagascar vanilla extract. “When it hits you, it hits you on the back end and creeps up on you,” he says.“One of the things that we always strive to do in our cooking here—our culinary philosophy—is we try to incorporate ingredients that are going to be very subtle but leave the guest wondering, ‘What was that?’ It’s different and unique, and they can’t quite place what it is.” Thistle & Thyme Marriott University Park Salt Lake City 480 Wakara Way, SLC 801-584-3327 ThistleThymeSLC.com Grand Thanksgiving Buffet, open Nov. 28 from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
CRANBERRY RELISH Ingredients 1 tablespoon shallot, minced 3 sage leaves 5 sprigs thyme 3 bay leaves 1 orange, zested and juiced 1 tablespoon pink peppercorn 1 cup dark brown sugar 1 quart Rowley’s Red Barn apple cider 4 cups cranberries 1 tablespoon Madagascar vanilla 1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger Salt to taste Instructions Combine apple cider, shallot, sage, thyme, bay leaf, orange zest and juice, pink peppercorn, Madagascar vanilla and fresh ginger. Bring to a simmer and reduce by ¾. Strain out solids and return to heat. Combine brown sugar and ¾ of cranberry and cook until cranberries soften. Blend. Stir in remaining cranberries and season to taste with salt. ❖
TURKEY WITH CRANBERRY RELISH
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Wines
French Floral
White
THAT PLAY NICELY WITH OTHERS
Albert Bichot Maçon Villages, Burgundy 2017 ($15.99) “From the southern end of Burgundy in the Mâconnais, this 100% chardonnay is crafted as only the French know how to do it!” says Thompson. “Gorgeous floral notes of acacia and honeysuckle with lovely mineral backbone.”
Well-rounded wines to accent a complex holiday meal BY DARBY DOYLE
T
hanksgiving dinner is the beverage equivalent of the seemingly insurmountable American Ninja Warrior course, in my humble opinion. There’s the abundance of foods from savory to sweet. The overall heaviness of traditional offerings. And, of course, a house full of personal opinions and preferences that only get more decisive (but hopefully less divisive?) with every bottle consumed. To find a happy medium of spirits, I called upon an expert: Tracey Thompson, CEO and president of Vine Lore Wine & Spirits. For keeping everyone at the table happy, she suggested a white, two reds and of course, a celebratory bubbly. As far as I’m concerned, the best part of cleaning up after the big meal is making sure that the only thing that doesn’t get put away as leftovers is the wine.
Think Pink!
Sparkling Gruet Brut Rosé, America NV ($18.99) Says Thompson, “I adore everything about this wine: bubbles, rosé and Méthode Traditionelle.” Coming from some of the highest elevation vineyards in the United States (at 4,300 ft. above sea level), Thompson praises this naturally garnet-hued bubbly for hitting all the marks. “So versatile. This wine can carry you through the meal form start to finish.”
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Oregon Berry
Reds Adelsheim Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2016 ($29.99) “This is one of the pioneering winemaking families in the Willamette Valley,” says Thompson of this crowd favorite for our Devour potluck. “[They’re] leaders in environmental stewardship, family owned and operated, with over 237 estate vineyards.” The vibrant and elegant pour has notes of cocoa, pomegranate, raspberry and allspice. “If this doesn’t say Thanksgiving wine, nothing does,” declares Thompson. It’s widely available in Utah and on sale in November for $5 off at $24.99!
Delicacies OF INDIA & NEPAL Hours
MONDAY: 11:30-9PM TUES-SAT: 11:30-10PM SUNDAY: 4-10PM (highland) 2-10PM (2100)
Argentine Plum Piattelli Trinità, Mendoza, Argentina ($24.99) A Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend, this is a powerhouse of a wine, rich with dark plum, raspberry and even dark chocolate. Thompson’s pick is made by one of the very few female winemakers in Argentina, fourth generation vintner Valeria Antolin. Thompson describes Antolin as the ‘heart’ of Piattelli. “Having been with Piattelli from its birth, she treats every grape as though it were one of her (adorable) boys. Daughter to a famous Mendozan winemaker, and with a degree in agronomy from Universidad Nacional de Cuyo, her passion leads Piattelli into the future of winemaking.” The 30- to 70-year-old vines located in the prestigious Luján de Cuyo (DOC) & Uco Valley yield an average of only 3.8 pounds of fruit per vine and 3.1 tons per acre. A celebratory grape, indeed. ❖
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FRANKIE HANSON
Last Bite
The One Where We Invite Friends Celebrate gratitude in style by hosting a hassle-free Friendsgiving BY LIZZIE CAWLEY
B
efore the most intense, food-obsessed Thursday of the year, get into your Zen space and imagine your best friends gathering to sip drinks and enjoy stimulating conversation. Then envision each of them bringing a delightful dish to share. Enter: Friendsgiving. This unique get-together is often celebrated as a precursor or even in lieu of the classic Thanksgiving meal, but this one allows you to be your best self since ill-mannered relatives, begging dogs and tantruming toddlers are not on the guest list. While Friendsgiving’s origin is uncertain (the holiday dinners on the TV show Friends were not actually called Friendsgiving), the gathering has been growing in popularity since 2007, especially among millennials. Perhaps we should thank Twitter for popularizing the term.
Divide and conquer
With Friendsgiving, you can show friends a good time while utilizing the tried-and-true potluck system. Often planned for the weekend before Thanksgiving, the host’s main duty is to prepare the centerpiece dish (which surprise, surprise, does not have to be turkey, but if it is, consider an alternative preparation style so as not to compete with the upcoming family holiday). For a fun, zesty shakeup, prepare a spatchcocked turkey with a pomegranate or peachrosemary glaze. Then assign your guests sides and desserts (potatoes, salad, pie) as desired while encouraging twists on classic preparations. Also ask that each dish come with or in an attractive serving dish. This will reduce the host’s time spent on meal prep and cleanup.
Good spirits
Friendsgiving is the perfect occasion to concoct a unique cocktail.
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Think apple cider mimosa, a thyme maple bourbon smash, a grilled peach Old Fashioned or an apple gin martini: all perfect ways to break out of the mold. If you have a sommelier in your circle of friends, then the day’s wine selection might best be left to him or her. Otherwise, ask guests to bring a favorite wine or beverage of choice. Not only will your group experience a variety of sips that way, but the selections act as a conversation starter. Let’s face it, finding a wine to go with a flavorful meal like Friendsgiving gives you a wide range of choices.
Set the scene
Celebrate fall by pulling out your festive candles and custom place settings to create a cozy environment. Or, if the weather is warm enough, consider dining outdoors at a comfy picnic table or with dining furniture moved outside. Swap the linen tablecloth for butcher paper and wine glasses for Mason jars. Put the focus on food and keep decorations minimal—an eye-catching centerpiece will do the trick. Oh, and your favorite tunes humming in the background keeps the mood bright. A Friendsgiving playlist should be as eclectic and personal as your meal.
Let it go!
Here’s the bottom line: Friendsgiving should not be“stress-giving.” Just be sure that the drinks and conversation flow. Not in the mood to dress up? Why not request a dress code theme or relaxed attire (ahem, plaid pajamas). A natural connection with your guests will come with shared tasks and spiced cider. Keep the crowd on the smaller side and the guest list intentional. If a Thanksgiving feast is the epitome of a traditional American meal then Friendsgiving can be a catalyst for new traditions! ❖
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