VOL. 6 NO. 2 • FEBRUARY 2020 • CHEESE FREE COPY
CHEESEMAKERS THAT THRIVE IN THE BEEHIVE P. 26
CHEESE & BEER MAKE QUITE THE PAIR P. 36
CHEESE PLATES TO LOVE, P. 8
Devour Utah • february 2020 1
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Contents
29
Page
PHOTO BY DAVID NEWKIRK
8 Cheese Is Love
26 Big Cheese
BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE
BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
A plate of cheese, a jug of wine and thou
12 Showing You the Love A dozen ways to add that golden glow to your favorite foods BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
24 The Spread
Siegfried’s Delicatessen BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL
The people and places who make the wheels go ‘round
30 Herb It Up
Herbs and spices help create unique cheese flavors you simply must try BY MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON
32 Things We Love The Cheese Edition BY AIMEE L. COOK
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34 Devour This Recipe Tirokafteri & Tirokroketes BY ELENI SALTAS
36 Spirit Guide
Cheese & Beer = Love BY MEGAN WAGSTAFF
42 Last Bite
Dairy Dreams: This is what I will do someday BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
Devour Utah • february 2020 5
STAFF Publisher PETE SALTAS Associate Publisher MICHAEL SALTAS Editorial
Editor JERRE WROBLE Proofreaders MEGAN WAGSTAFF, KASS WOOD Contributors CAROLYN CAMPBELL, AIMEE L. COOK, BRIAN FRYER, MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON, HEATHER L. KING, CAIT LEE, MIKA LEE, CLAIRE MCARTHUR, ELENI SALTAS, MEGAN WAGSTAFF
Production
Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, CHELSEA NEIDER, JENNIFER TERRY
Business/Office
Associate Business Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMANTHA HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS
Circulation
Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO
Sales
Director of Sales and Events Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executives
TRINA BAGHOOMIAN ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER KELLY BOYCE, MICHELLE ENGSTRAND
Founder
JOHN SALTAS
Cover photo by David Newkirk: Caputo’s Locatelli pecorino Romano Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour Utah are available for $4.95 at the Devour Utah offices located at 175 W. 200 South, Ste. 100, Salt Lake City, Utah 84101• 801-716-1777 • DevourUtah.com Email editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: sales@DevourUtah.com
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From the Editor
T
Curd Nerds
o cheese or not to cheese, that is the question. The vegan movement has rightfully criticized “industrial” cheese—from its impacts on the environment to animal welfare to consumers’ health—with one leader in the plantbased movement going so far as to call cheese “dairy crack.” In his 2017 book The Cheese Trap, physician Neal Barnard advocates forgoing dairy products altogether, saying they are not only fattening but addictive. Cheese, we’re told, contains casein, and studies show that this protein releases casomorphins, which act as mild opiates, attaching to the same brain receptors as narcotics. This might explain why some can’t resist cheese and cheese-drenched foods (and perhaps why they are so blissful while eating them!). Calves receive a “reward” of dopamine each time they nurse because nature wants them to come back for more. While a cup of cow’s milk has only 8 grams of protein (most of which is casein), a cup of melted cheddar cheese has 60 grams of casein-laden protein—and that packs a powerful mood-enhancing punch! Cheese also has a much higher calorie count than milk. That’s a concern because Americans now eat three times as much cheese as they did in the 1970s, with many of us eating 35 pounds a year. Some of us are now “wearing” those 35 pounds while others show no weight gain or signs of ill health at all. And that could be what’s known as the “French Paradox”— referring to the inexplicably low rate of cardiovascular disease in French people, especially considering their passion for wine and foods high in saturated fats. One recent study suggests the reason for these low rates actually could be linked to cheese consumption, the molded varieties in particular. Turns out cheese produces a gut bacteria that—when seen in elevated levels—has been linked with reducing cholesterol and even obesity. So, the very food that some argue is dragging Americans down the road to the fat farm and heart failure is the panacea for heart health and physical fitness for the French? Sacré bleu! My cheesehead is about to explode. It’s obvious more research on both sides is needed. But while the jury is still out, I say: Let’s eat cheese!—but perhaps take another cue from the French and do it as part of a balanced diet. In this issue, writers Cait and Mika Lee asked Mariah Christensen, Harmons certified cheese professional, for cheese-plate suggestions, and the result (just in time for Valentine’s Day) is “Cheese Is Love.” We also have a dozen ooey-gooey cheese dishes our writers have dubbed worthy of noshing at local eateries along the Wasatch Front. For your own cheese-tasting pleasure, know that it’s best to buy farm-made cheeses, coming from a single herd in one location with its own climate and grasses. This “terroir” creates superior milk (and cheese) the same way it does in wine. We are fortunate to have artisan cheesemakers and farmstead dairies in our region. To learn more, read our feature titled “Big Cheese.” Wine is fine but for those who want to wash their cheese down with beer (call it the “Utah Paradox”), Megan Wagstaff has come up with several frothy pairings in Spirit Guide. So, ditch the string cheese, Kraft singles and Velveeta. Let’s read about (and eat) some real cheese. ❖
—Jerre Wroble
C u a o n Taste Y e v o L
801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South | finecandies.com Devour Utah • february 2020 7
The Cheese Issue
Cheese Is L ve A plate of cheese, a jug of wine and thou STORY AND PHOTOS BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE Hey, Cheeseaholics—How much do you know about cheese? A lot, you say? Here’s a pop quiz: How many cheese categories are there? Answer: Seven. Or maybe it’s eight, or even 10, if you google it. Food Network’s Alton Brown breaks it down to five: fresh cheeses that are under 2 weeks old so they haven’t got a rind (think: cream cheese, feta, cottage cheese and chevre); soft ripened cheeses that ooze at room temperature (i.e., brie and Camembert) and usually come in disks; semi-hard cheeses that are sometimes coated in wax or cloth and include dense, chewy cheeses like Edam as well as washed-rind semisofts like Époisses; hard cheeses, like cheddar, Parmesan, Gruyère and manchego, that are firm and have thick, dense rinds or are waxed; and veined cheeses like Roquefort, Gorgonzola and Stilton, which come in a variety of flavors. Feel smarter now? That should at least get you into a cheesy conversation but just know classifications vary depending on who you ask. For many Utahns, Kraft and Velveeta were training wheels of fromage, and many still lean toward mass-produced bricks of cheddar and Swiss.
But why cling to the familiar when Utah has climbed aboard the cheese train? Today, numerous outlets have brought to market a wide variety of “milk made immortal,” ranging from local to international, with samples to help expand your knowledge, plus classes and events. We’ve teamed up with Mariah Christensen, Harmons’ specialty cheese buyer and certified cheese professional, to highlight four fabulous cheese plates with bites of golden goodness from around the globe (and from a variety of dairy herds). If you already have a few favorites but need pointers on bringing them together, Christensen suggests incorporating five flavors (sweet, umami, bitter, etc.) in your cheese plate. Add textures such as fresh fruits, chocolate and nuts. “Cheese in threes” is more pleasing to the eye. Most importantly, she says, develop a relationship with a cheesemonger. After understanding your preferences, they can recommend cheeses they have in stock. Keep these plates in mind the next time you’re shopping for a seductive plate of cheese. What better way to win over the Honeycrisp of your eye! Cheeses, left to right: Midnight Moon, Mobay, La Tur
Traveling Trio: Goat, Sheep and Cow’s Milk Not sure about which cheese milk you’ll like? Taste samples from the big three—goat, sheep and cow— and decide for yourself. Beginners and epicureans alike will savor this cheese plate with tastes from around the globe. Fun fact: Worldwide, 48.5 billion pounds of cheese is consumed each year.
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Midnight Moon is a goat-milk cheese similar to Gouda for the chary palate. A great introduction to goat cheese, this one is mild, sweet and creamy with a nice pink hue. Aging, which breaks down proteins and fats for this cheese, occurs in the Netherlands, making it a great choice to pair with their famous stroopwafel.
Mobay is a unique half-and-half cheese wheel from America’s cheese capital, Wisconsin. Separated by a thin layer of ash, this semi-soft cheese has two slight color differences defined by the type of milk. Sheep’s milk has hints of lemon zest, warm butterscotch and cream while goat milk has a silky texture with savory umami broth and fresh bread flavors. Try each separately or combined for a third flavor.
Robiola-style cheeses with soft rinds like La Tur are fluffy and gooey for optimal spreading. Made from goat, sheep and cow milk, La Tur is light, milky and carries a hint of sweetness, doubling as a dessert cheese. Pair with fresh fruit and/or a sparkling wine.
Cheeses, left to right: Roquefort, OssauIraty, Langres
French Dessert One could easily try a new French cheese every day for a year and still not sample them all. The choices can be overwhelming. How about starting with dessert? This comely plate puts the finishing touches on a romantic, homemade meal.
Ossau-Iraty is a rich, buttery, slightly salted caramel cheese made in the Basque region of France, known for its sheep’s milk. Alpine-style cheeses are characterized by their mountainous terrain and seasonal pastureland. Ossau-Iraty embraces Neolithic traditions by making cheeses in small huts along the mountainside in large cheese wheels for longer aging.
Southern France produces this pungent yet reputable Roquefort blue cheese. Specifically, Roquefort is sheep’s milk aged in the caves of Cambalou, where regional yeasts and molds develop their localized flavor. Peppery, spicy and creamy notes pair with caramelized walnuts and pears, which add a crispness and contrast.
Langres may not be pretty on the outside. Geotrichum yeast (or “geo” for short) is used to give the rind of this cheese its distinguished wrinkle—which some claim is the best part. The cheese itself is creamy, dense and tangy with a hint of mushroom. A concave top develops during aging and, traditionally, the French poured champagne into this basin, then sliced the cheese and served it on a baguette. Pair it with Regalis Tennessee Black Truffle Honeycomb for a deliciously sweet and tangy treat. Devour Utah • february 2020 9
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Locals Only
Cheeses, left to right: Seahive Beehive, Silver Queen, Heber Valley Mustard Herb Cheddar
OK, funeral potatoes, move over. Locals know Utah cheese is on the rise. Artisan cheesemakers dot the Wasatch Front with delicious styles made in our own backyard. From Uintah, Seahive Beehive is a cheddarstyle cheese rubbed with local salt and honey sourced from the Beehive State. In 2008, Harmons helped Beehive Cheese develop this flavor. Bringing it to market is a yearly tradition for Harmons. “Cheddaring” is a lengthy and attentive process, requiring the cheesemaker to flip the cheese in a warm vat every 15 minutes. Honey, sweet, savory cheddar flavor. Park City Creamery produces the Silver Queen, made with local goat’s milk. It has a defining donut shape that ensures the rind covers a large surface area, which imbues the cheese with an earthy flavor. Ash changes the pH of cheese, giving Silver Queen a tangy lemon punch with mushroom notes.
Tucked away in Midway, Heber Valley Cheese Mustard Herb Cheddar is a creamy, mildflavored choice. As one of Utah’s only farmstead cheesemakers, Heber Valley not only produces milk but also makes cheese on its farm. The secret to their outstanding Mustard Herb Cheddar, they say, is their ability to control the milk source and where their cows graze. Locals Only cheeses can be mixed and matched with Honeycrisp apples, local Hollowtree raw honey and a spicy Creminelli piccante Italian salami.
Cheesemonger’s Selection: Cow’s Milk Cheeses, left to right: Keen’s Cheddar, Harbison, Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve
As a cheese pro for Harmons, Christensen travels to dairies worldwide for her job and can share a story or two about each cheese that Harmons sells. Christensen divulges a few of her personal cheese favorites (along with pairing tips) below:
Keen’s Cheddar is a seasonal starter, reigning the OG of traditional cheddar cheese. Buttery, grassy, brothy and savory. Keen’s Cheddar methodically uses a different culture every day to prevent bacteriophage. West Country Farmhouse creates savory English cheddars, occasionally with horseradish notes. Pairs well with marcona almonds.
Cheeses shown are available at Harmons Grocery Stores HarmonsGrocery.com
Harbison is one of the more trenchant American cheeses. Cellars of Jasper Hill Farm cheesemakers wrap this soft, lush cow’s raw milk cheese in spruce bark for woodsy, mushroom and mustard notes. Harbison is a French-style, vacherin mont d’or cheese that’s aged 60 days. Based in Greensboro, Vermont, this cheese has won awards from the American Cheese Society. Pair it with caramelized onion mustard on a sapid garlic crostini.
Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve is the most awarded cheese in America. Cheesemaker Andy Hatch makes only two seasonal cheeses, and one of them is Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve, an alpine-style hard cheese made with summer, grass-fed milk. The process of washing the rind in saltwater brine promotes bacteria growth. Milk changes the protein and fat ratios seasonally, and this summer variety is rich and salty, with a fruity finish. Delicious with mustard and crostinis. Devour Utah • february 2020 11
SHOWING YOU THE LOVE
A dozen ways to add that golden glow to your favorite foods
Get a warm scrape of melted cheese over a sandwich at the Raclette Machine food truck
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BROOKE ELIASON
BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
The Cheese Issue
It’s
not exactly gilding the lily to melt cheese atop a sandwich, corn chips or vegetables. Cheese just makes food taste better, giving it a rich craveable flavor. While the idea of melting cheese on food has been around for centuries, we can’t help but notice a hot-melt renaissance going on right now, and we just had to dip our toast into it. Check out these dishes from Utah eateries that take full advantage of cheese’s gooey goodness.
THE GOUDA 4 YOU While their Praise Cheezus booth at the Park Silly market (and now a food truck) in Park City along with menu items named Sweet Baby Cheezus and the Bethle-Ham sandwich might get a laugh, don’t think Josh Pruitt and his partner, Jessica Lanoue, aren’t serious about good, gooey meltedcheese specialties. For nearly five years, the couple has been offering “grown up” grilled cheese at events in the resort town and have equipped a few bars in town with sandwich presses and pre-made sandwiches to offer hungry patrons. “We use good quality ingredients and offer it at lower prices than you might usually see in Park City,” Pruitt says. “We love coming up with the combinations, and we won’t serve anything we wouldn’t like ourselves.” With food trucks recently permitted in the Park City area, the couple will be hitting the road offering items like the Gouda 4 You featuring caramelized onions, whiskey maple bacon, Dijon aioli and, of course, melted Gouda. (Brian Fryer) Follow on Facebook at Praise Cheezus
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THE BREAKFAST SANDO
Raclette Machine food truck Location varies Raclette-Machine.com
Gouda and gouda for you: Praise Cheezus’ grilled cheese offerings satisfy grown-up tastes COURTESY PHOTO
Partners Abby Pfunder and Zara Ahmed began their love of all things cheesy having first met working at California’s famed Cowgirl Creamery. They decided to share that love by bringing raclette, the classic alpine European comfort dish, out of the ski lodge and on to the streets with their Raclette Machine food truck. To prepare the lavish melt, half a wheel of cheese, typically Gruyère, is heated until soft and runny then scraped onto a plate of potatoes, pickles (cornichons) and bread. The Raclette Machine offers that classic preparation as well as other takes such as the Breakfast Sando featuring Crumb Brothers bread, poblano chile pesto, a fried egg and greens along with thin slices of prosciutto (optional), all of which is blanketed with a warm scrape of Wasatch Mountain cheese from Rockhill Creamery in Cache Valley where Pfunder did a cheese-making apprenticeship years ago. Raclette Machine even offers vegan versions of their menu items. (Brian Fryer)
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Herm’s Inn grills its cheese on the outside of the bread
INSIDE OUT GRILLED CHEESE
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TOFFEE-CRUNCH CHEESECAKE
1 Luv Bakery’s cheesecake cupcakes
COURTESY PHOTO
Herm’s Inn 1435 Canyon Road, Logan 435-792-4321 HermsInn.com
ANDREA STEFFES
Cache Valley may have a long cheese tradition, but the folks at Herm’s Inn at the mouth of Logan Canyon in a charming, restored early-1900s gas station have turned tradition around with their take on grilled cheese. It starts with melting shredded cheddar-jack on a hot griddle until golden and crisp. A slice of bread is placed on top of the pile and then is flipped onto a second pile of melting cheese. The reverse grilled cheese is topped with black beans, guacamole and a choice of grilled chicken, steak or ham. Herm’s was once the last chance for gas before entering Logan Canyon, and it may be the only place to find this … um … sandwich? Open MondaySunday, 7 a.m.- 1:50 p.m. (Brian Fryer)
Why settle for cheesecake from a factory when there are locally made, decadently rich ones made with love by Mary Gostis and her reggae music loving son, Justin, and in almost limitless variety. The former owner of Dough Boys in Sandy opened 1 Luv commercial bakery about nine years ago providing desserts for local restaurants like Tsunami. 1 Luv makes about 80 different varieties of cheesecake in 10-inch rounds or in individual cupcake-size cheesecake cups. They even have gluten free crusts. “Our most popular are toffee crunch, raspberry with white chocolate and the lemon raspberry,” Mary says. Orders can be placed by phone or online. (Brian Fryer) 1 Luv Bakery 4042 S. 200 East, SLC 801-671-1327 1LuvBakery.com
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The name of this menu item (a curious shout-out to a Frank Zappa song from the ’70s? Look it up kids) is not the only unusual thing about this classic breakfast plate served at a cozy café high on the mountain in Draper’s Suncrest neighborhood. Looking to add more gluten-free items to the menu, the chefs at the Ridge Café mixed in ricotta cheese to liven up pancakes made with gluten-free flour. Three of the light, fluffy ricotta pancakes are complemented by sausage patties (or bacon) and two eggs to make an altogether perfect brunch choice but would probably still be too normal for Mr. Zappa. (Brian Fryer) The Ridge Cafe 14886 Traverse Ridge Road, Draper 801-571-8000 RidgeCafe.com
COURTESY PHOTO
ST. ALFONZO’S PANCAKE BREAKFAST
Ricotta cheese enhances The Ridge Cafe’s glutenfree pancakes
Melty Way’s hot melts come with a choice of dipping sauces
FOUR CHEESE CLASSIC
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COURTESY PHOTO
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It is all about the cheese, so why not add more? Melty Way has been perfecting its grilling techniques since starting with a food truck in 2012. The Four Cheese Classic piles on sharp provolone, fontina, havarti and sharp cheddar. Cheese-laden bread slices are sent open face through a conveyor toaster to create a sandwich that’s melted cheese on the inside, and toasted on the outside. “We tried a couple different methods, and we didn’t like the results until we started doing things this way,” says founder David Nibley (who some will recognize from his roles in Latter Day Saints-themed films). “We make a great tomato basil soup that is just perfect with the Four Cheese.” Nibley says Melty Way uses local products as much as possible including bread from Morning Mills Bakery in Murray. (Brian Fryer) Melty Way Amazing Melts & More The Shops at South Town 10450 S. State, Sandy 801-571-4111 MeltyWay.com
STIMULATE YOUR SENSES Food curated by Executive Chef Matthew Anderson
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Devour Utah • february 2020 17
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It’s what’s for lunch: The Oasis Cafe’s melted brie on cranberry-walnut bread
TOASTED BRIE SANDWICH
Oasis Café 151 S. 500 East, SLC 801-322-0404 OasisCafeSLC.com
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COURTESY PHOTO
Joel and Jill LaSalle took over The Oasis Café from original owners Jackie Pratt and Steve Paul in 2002, and the toasted brie sandwich ($10) on the lunch/brunch menu came along with the deal. When asked about the staying power of the sandwich as a regular offering and customer favorite, general manager Will Keesen says, “There are some things you just don’t mess with. From the velvety creaminess of the melted brie cheese, surrounded by the satisfying crunch of the toasted cranberry walnut bread–it’s perfection. Pairing it with the tang of citrus jicama salad, and your mouth fires on all cylinders. We wish we would have thought of it.” Nearly two decades later, this sandwich is still a gastronomic delight like no other in the city. (Heather L. King)
POUR ME A SLICE Brother-in-laws Tim Welsh and Pat Ford opened the Beehive Cheese creamery in 2005 with just eight days of cheese-making experience between them. They created Beehive’s Promontory Cheddar—which serves as the base cheese for all of their flavored cheddars—and then began experimenting. They rubbed coffee and lavender on the cheese, and today, the immensely popular and awardwinning Barely Buzzed is known the world over. They continue to make “whey” in the cheese world with conventional and unconventional external cheese rubs—most recently infusing Promontory with Basil Hayden’s Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey to create Pour Me A Slice. The sweet and creamy aged cheddar offers up a subtle hint of bourbon spice. (Heather L. King)
Whack fol de daddy-o There’s whiskey in the ... cheese? Beehive Cheese’s Pour Me a Slice
HEATHER L. KING
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Beehive Cheese 2440 E. 6600 South, Suite 8, Uintah 801-476-0900 BeehiveCheese.com
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Cheese made with Altitude. Corinne makes authentic European style cheeses right here in Park City using cow and goat milk sourced solely from Utah farms. Enjoy the unique floral and mountain-fresh notes found only in cheese made at high altitude. Buy local, and enjoy the freshest cheese in town.
1200 West lori Lane | Unit A3 | Heber City, UT (312) 810-5125 | parkcitycreamery.com
20 Devour Utah • february 2020
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Cozy up by the fire at Franck’s and get ready to enjoy the atmosphere as your order of three cheese fondue (single portion $19, double $25) arrives at the table. The first bite belies the beauty of Franck’s fondue—in its simplicity and dependence on quality ingredients, of which there are only four, gustatory excellence is achieved. Melted Gruyère, Emmental and Swiss cheeses are the primary delicious elements with a splash of Kirsch liquor for a hint of sweetness. Dunk chewy chunks of crusty bread into your warm pot of cheese to make this winter season unforgettable. (Heather L. King) Franck’s 6263 S. Holladay Blvd., Holladay 801-274-6264 FrancksFood.com
COURTESY PHOTO
THREECHEESE FONDUE
Get your dunk on: Franck’s three-cheese fondue
BAKED BRIE
DEREK CARLISLE
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Baked brie at Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House will warm the cockles of your heart
Kimi Eklund has provided Utahns with a taste of European cuisine for two decades. Most recently, Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House in Sugar House introduces Salt Lake diners to Kimistyle tapas, like the rich and easily shareable baked brie ($14.50). The dish brings together Alpine favorites of warm and melted French brie wrapped in pastry dough paired with a refreshing apple slaw, tangy citrus-tossed arugula and a flourish of cloudberry coulis for a spicy, fruity finish. The baked brie is a great start to a filling wintertime dinner or as a post-work drinks and appetizers option. (Heather L. King) Kimi’s Chop & Oyster House 2155 S. Highland Drive, SLC 801-946-2079 KimisHouse.com
Devour Utah • february 2020 21
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22 Devour Utah • february 2020
MOZZARELLA EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA BOWL
Carmine’s 2477 E. Fort Union Blvd. Cottonwood Heights 801-948-4468 Carmines.restaurant
CAIT LEE
Chef Carmine Delli Bovi set out on a mission three years ago to redefine Italian cuisine. A native of Naples, Italy, Delli Bovi grew up on fresh-made pasta, seafood and cheeses. When he couldn’t find the local, fresh ingredients he grew up on, he and his staff creating some of their own. Today, Carmine’s most exquisite dishes include their mozzarella, burrata and ricotta, made in-house. Carmine’s Mozzarella Eggplant Parmigiana Bowl is a softball of warm, pillowy mozzarella stuffed with their signature eggplant parmigiana topped with fragrant basil. This vegetarian, gluten-free dish originating in southern Italy is a sight to behold and a joy for cheese-lovers to consume. (Mika Lee & Cait Lee)
A taste of heaven? Carmine’s housemade mozzarella is stuffed with eggplant parmigiana and topped with basil
2 ATOMIC MEATBALL WITH FETA
1
CAIT LEE
It’s betta with feta: Moochie’s Atomic Meatball Sandwich with Jumpin’ Jalapeno Sauce
Moochie’s has made a name for itself with their authentic Philly cheesesteaks and meatball subs. Owner and Philadelphia native Joanna Rendi was raised on the finest steak sandwiches when they began to add American and provolone cheese back in the ’50s. Since then, she’s been no stranger to good quality cheese, perfecting meat-to-cheese ratios to bring Utahns just the right amount of saltiness and creaminess in each bite. “Food is just a vessel for the cheese,” Rendi jokes. “We put cheese on just about everything.” Moochie’s cheesesteaks may have a reputation of their own, but Rendi’s choice sandwich is the fiery Atomic Meatball with Feta Cheese, a rich, crumbly cheese atop meatballs in a spicy marinara slathered over a fresh-baked hoagie. Drizzle it with creamy jalapeno sauce made inhouse and order a side of squeaky cheese curds, a new menu item, for cheesy bliss. ❖ Moochies Multiple locations MoochiesMeatballs.com
Devour Utah • february 2020 23
The Cheese Issue
Siegfried’s sausage and coleslaw
Spread the
Siegfried’s Delicatessen
T
his cheerful, bustling, casual eatery offers a one-stop shop for dining in, take out, deli meats and cheeses, German groceries, Europeanstyle baked goods and assorted kitsch. A popular lunch spot for downtowners, the restaurant is known for its hot German specialties served cafeteria-style. The line to the food counter can appear daunting, but it moves quickly and service is brisk. Tables are located near large streetside windows and in a more private dining area in the back room. From Thursday through Saturday, Siegfried’s is also open for dinner, featuring specials such as rouladen or cabbage rolls. It’s a great casual pre-theater dinner spot, with Capitol Theatre and the Eccles just a few minutes’ walk away. 24 Devour Utah • february 2020
BY CAROLYN CAMPBELL PHOTOS BY DEREK CARLISLE
Old-timers still think of this location as relatively new, but owner Daiva Stankyavichyus, a Siegfried’s employee for 30 years, reminds us the deli moved to its current location 15 years ago from its original spot on Broadway. Siegfried’s was founded in 1971 by Siegfried Meyer, a German native who moved to Utah and dedicated his energy, enthusiasm and culinary expertise to transform an old grocery store into a unique German deli. “He used old recipes that he had researched,” Meyer’s son, Christian Meyer, recalls. “He also went to a sausage-making school in Germany.” In the beginning, Meyer’s sausage kitchen was housed behind the original restaurant that also featured a German “tastes of home” grocery store. To this
day, the staff makes all the sausages inhouse, including bratwurst, knockwurst, weisswurst and German wieners. Meyer sold the restaurant to Stankyavichyus in 2005 and died in 2016 following a motorcycle accident. A visit to this eatery is like a food tour of Germany—and there aren’t many places like it in Utah to satisfy such cravings. The hot dishes include Reuben sandwiches, bratwurst, Wiener schnitzel with spaetzle, brown gravy and red cabbage, and warm German potato salad, which is a delectable blend of potatoes, bacon, onions and red wine vinegar. The Wiener schnitzel is made from a German recipe using very tender cuts of lean pork that are dipped in breadcrumbs and deep-fried, then served piping hot with lemon wedges.
The coleslaw is tangy and delicious. Most entrees come with two sides that are plated while the schnitzel is being fried. There’s also traditional goulash and borsch soups. “Customers can order food to eat in, or we will deliver, or you can come in and pick it up,” Stankyavichyus says. The bakery counter by the cash register is filled with European delicacies such as German chocolate cake, Black Forest cake, apple strudel, napoleons, éclairs and marzipan, all baked fresh daily. The cold-case deli houses some 20 cheeses including the aromatic German Tilsit sharp, which is excellent on sandwiches, cold or grilled. Melting it over chicken or burgers or potatoes is another way to enjoy its taste. They also sell plain and dill havarti, Muenster, Gruyère and Jarlsberg. There are 20 or so meat options, including bratwurst, bologna, bacon, ham, chicken and more. You can find Europeanstyle breads from Mahlers Bakery in California and rye bread from Dimpflmeier Bakery made with natural spring water, as well as marble, pumpernickel and sourdough breads and wheat Kaiser rolls. The grocery shelves line the walls of the dining area and include authentic German cookies, cakes, chocolate and candies, as well as spices, baking supplies and other groceries. There’s even German language magazines and periodicals. Where we would be without the flavors and aromas of the Old Country that are enjoyed here? We’d certainly be scrounging for a passport. ❖
A lunch-hour favorite: A freshly grilled Reuben sandwich
Deli cheeses for sandwiches and fondue
Tempt yourself with Siegfried’s Black Forest cake
Choose from a variety of German breads and rolls
Siegfried’s Delicatessen 20 W. 200 South, SLC 385-355-1912 SiegfriedsDelicatessen.com
Devour Utah • february 2020 25
Big Cheese The people and places who make the wheels go ’round BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
Rockhill Creamery
Raw milk, small batches, months of aging and time-tested European recipes. These are the characteristics all Rockhill Creamery cheeses share, including the Spanish-style Escalante Hispanco, one of the only Manchego-inspired cheeses in Utah. Run out of a historic farmstead dating back to 1893, owners Pete Schropp and Jennifer Hines have been making cheese in Richmond since 2005. Rockhill Creamery is open to the public on Saturdays, June through September. The rest of the year, shop for their cheese online or at Liberty Heights Fresh. (Megan Wagstaff) 563 S. State St., Richmond 435-774-2878 RockhillCheese.com
Park City Creamery
Utah Cheese Awards’ 2019 Best in Show award goes to Silver Queen Goat Cheese with Vegetable Ash from Park City Creamery. The inspiration for Silver Queen comes from one of CEO, owner and cheesemaker Corrine Zinn’s favorite French recipes, which uses ash as a natural preservative, a treasured technique before the days of refrigeration. Local goat’s milk gives the cheese a unique terroir, complemented by a glass of sauvignon blanc or as a dessert with sweet Riesling. Available at multiple stores, including Caputo’s and Harmons. (Megan Wagstaff) 1200 W. Lori Lane, Unit 3 Heber, 312-810-5125 ParkCityCreamery.com
26 Devour Utah • february 2020
Finney Farms
Back in 1986, Southern Utah’s Finney Farms was no more than five dairy cows and a little red barn. Today, their 52 grass-fed Brown Swiss cows produce enough milk to sell cheese at four locations in the St. George/Hildale area. Owned by FLDS member Winford Barlow, Finney Farms fills a unique niche in the local cheese scene—one the family whole-heartedly embraces, as is evident in their goldmedal cheese, Kricker, a nickname for the people who live in the polygamist town of Short Creek. Winning top honors in the Alpine category at the 2019 Utah Cheese Awards, Kricker nods toward Asiago with a soft, creamy bite perfect for pizza and pasta. (Megan Wagstaff) Multiple locations, 435-383-8633, FinneyFarm.com
W
hen you think of Utah, “cheese” isn’t exactly top of mind—at least, not like it would be if you think of Wisconsin. Yet, in 2018, when the Dairy Farmers of America cooperative built a new facility called The Creamery, a retail store and farm-to-table experience highlighting family dairy farms, where did they locate it? Beaver, Utah, of course. With a full kitchen that serves up a dairy-based menu, The Creamery is a dairy destination for locals and travelers alike that tells a story dating back to 1952 when local farmers built the adjacent cheesemaking plant to supply the Beaver community with dairy products. Today, those products include signature cheese curds, specialty cheeses, ice cream and more. So, we’re not exactly lactose intolerant here in the Beehive. Quite the opposite. Try getting tickets for the annual Chocolate and Cheese Festival at the Natural History Museum of Utah (to be held this year on March 28-29). We also have our own Utah Cheese Awards with winners announced in October that recognize the best in local cheese making. So, if you’re surprised to learn about Utah’s cheese scene, we’ve highlighted a dozen local dairy producers for you to seek out and taste at local cheese counters.
Hollow Farms
Curd is the word when it comes to cheeses from Hollow Farms’ owner Mike Hunsaker and cheesemaker Derrick Brammer. In 1999, Mike opened Hunsaker Meats in Tooele, later expanding the business to the old Stockton Post Office, which he turned into a cheesemaking facility called Hunsaker Specialty Cheeses. All six flavors are made with dairy from a co-op out of Delta. Find Hollow Farms’ curds (also known as squeaky cheese) at summer farmers markets, Macey’s and Harmons grocery stores or at their storefront, open Monday–Saturday. (Megan Wagstaff) 209 N. Conner Ave., Stockton, 435-843-1112
Aggie Creamery
When we think of cheese, often the first rind to mind is cheddar. And if you want gold-medal cheddar, you have to try Old Juniper from Aggie Creamery, first-place winner in its category at the 2019 Utah Cheese Awards. Known for its agricultural chops, Utah State University is home to the Aggie Creamery, which dates back to 1888, and the school has been teaching cheese making as part of its curriculum since 1922. Shop Old Juniper and other wedges at its storefront, Aggie Ice Cream, where you’ll also find a variety of scoops like Aggie Blue Mint, their take on mint chocolate chip, in homemade waffle cones. (Megan Wagstaff) 750 N. 1200 East, Logan, 435-797-2109, AggieIceCream.usu.edu
Gold Creek Farms
Known for their award-winning smoked cheeses, it might be easy to let Gold Creek Farms’ Woodland Blue Cheese go unnoticed. But you’d be remiss if you did. Local blue cheese is a bit of a rarity in Utah; it takes time and patience to create the perfect wheel, and cheesemaker Fernando ChavezSandoval does it right. Along with owners Alan and Debbie Gold, the trio have been working since 2007 on 130 acres in Woodland to create their artisan offerings, which you can purchase directly from their barn storefront or online. They also offer selections at Whole Foods, Harmons and Liberty Heights Fresh. (Megan Wagstaff) 6297 Bench Creek Road, Kamas, 435-783-5815, GoldCreekFarms.com COURTESY PHOTOS
Devour Utah • february 2020 27
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28 Devour Utah • february 2020
Mesa Farms
Between picking fresh fruits and vegetables, baking artisan bread, growing organic coffee and gathering free-range eggs, the folks at Mesa Farms somehow find time to make really good cheese. Take their small-batch feta, for example, which won the 2019 Utah Cheese Awards’ silver medal in the goat and sheep’s cheese category. You’ll find it at Caputo’s, or head down to owner Randy Ramsley’s roadside Mesa Farm Market, where he’s been pioneering farm-to-table near Capitol Reef National Park for 22 years. The Market opens late March and sells goods from the 50-acre farm through midSeptember. (Megan Wagstaff) UT-24, Mile Marker 102, Torrey, 435-456-9146, MesaFarmMarket.com
Caputo’s
Gossner Foods
When it comes to Swiss cheese, the wheels at Gossner Foods are the real deal. Emigrating from Switzerland in 1930, founder Edwin Gossner Sr. eventually settled in Cache Valley, an ideal climate and elevation for making our holey hero. With the abundance of dairy cows in the region, Edwin was running the largest Swiss cheese factory in the world by 1946. Taste the family’s original recipes, Traditional Swiss (aged for 60 days), mild Baby Swiss and fullbodied European Style Swiss, at their Logan store or shop online. (Megan Wagstaff) 1051 N. 1000 West, Logan, 435-713-6104, Gossner.com
Making burrata came as a necessity for Caputo’s after imports were halted about eight years ago. The time-consuming process—about five hours to make a 20-pound batch—has since become a labor of love. Burrata is made by taking stracciatella—a byproduct from making fresh mozzarella—and piling it into the curd, fashioning it into a sack and adding heavy cream that separates from the mozzarella. Caputo’s burrata ($21.99 per pound) won silver at the Utah Cheese Awards, 2019. (Aimee L. Cook) Multiple locations, Caputos.com
Heber Valley Creamery
The Kohler family of Midway and their 150 dairy cows have a lot of award-winning cheeses under their belts. Boasting medals from the prestigious American Cheese Society and US Cheese Championships, any of their two dozen plus artisanal varieties are a welcome addition to your cheese board. If you’re looking for something unique, try the Juustoleipä (pronounced oo-stay-lee-pa). A Finnish word meaning “cheese bread,” it’s meant to be grilled, fried or baked and tastes delicious with jam. Pick some up at the Creamery in Midway, which also offers tastings, classes and tours. (Megan Wagstaff) 920 River Road, Midway, 435-654-0291, HeberValleyArtisanCheese.com
Drake Family Farms
If there’s one thing to be said about Drake Family Farms, it’s this: These guys know their goats. Each has a name and is treated like a pet, and all their goats are registered with the American Dairy Goat Association. Owned by Ron Drake and his wife Jeanette, who is also the head cheesemaker, they specialize in fresh goat’s milk, yogurt and goat cheese. Taste their creations at their Farm Store, as well as at seasonal farmers markets and a variety of grocery and specialty stores. Visit their website for a complete list of vendors. (Megan Wagstaff) 1856 Drake Lane, West Jordan, 801-255-MILK, DrakeFamilyFarms.com
Redmond Farms
Real Raw Cheese comes farm fresh from grass-fed cows in Redmond. Using cultured raw milk that is neither pasteurized nor homogenized, these handcrafted cheeses are aged a minimum of 60 days and include sharp and mild cheddar, mozzarella, pepper jack and chipotle varieties. They allow no antibiotics, hormones, chemicals or colors in their products. Order online or visit locations in greater Salt Lake City. (Jerre Wroble) Redmond Heritage Farms, 5400 N. 800 West, Redmond, 801-224-0585, RedmondFarms.com
Caputo’s burrata
COURTESY PHOTOS
Devour Utah • february 2020 29
The Cheese Issue
HERB IT UP Herbs and spices help create unique new cheese flavors consumers are excited to try BY MERRY LYCETTE HARRISON
T
o explore how herbs can impart flavors to cheese, I visited Liberty Heights Fresh (1290 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-583-7374, LibertyHeightsFresh.com) at the invitation of owner Steven Rosenberg to peruse their highquality cheese selection. A beautiful wheel of traditional Alp Blossom cheese stood out with its colorful floral coating of dried lavender, blue cornflower, rose and calendula petals. The creaminess blends with the subtle to strongly flavored herb bits, resulting in a cheese meant to be savored. Another less showy wheel had a modest green rind with particles from the fresh hay in which it was ripened. The flavor of the firm, edible rind brought back memories of blue-sky days during haying season. Pecorino that had been coated in juniper berries had an interesting astringency. There was a soft cheese dusted with shitake mushroom powder, Gouda dotted with peppercorns and a cheese from Cyprus packaged in its minty brine. Varieties of soft chevre were flavored with basil, chives or apricots and honey. Herbs and cheese make great companions because herbs’ aromatic essential oils blend with fat in the cheese to complement its flavor. Novel vegetal flavorings include wild fennel pollen, cedar, brandy-soaked raisins and roasted hops (which pair well with beer). Besides enhanced flavor, herbs add visual appeal to cheese with their bright color variations. Red chili flakes, blue lavender flowers and dark green specks of nettle can add interest to an attractive cheese board. Consider Gouda infused with basil, garlic, Herbs de Provence, Sambal, fenugreek, truffle, walnuts and mustard. Rubbed the Right Way To achieve these complex flavors, a variety of methods are employed in the cheese-making process. Marinating, rubbing, rolling, dusting, mixing and aging cheese with herbs and spices all affect the final product. Timing of each unique process must be precise to achieve the perfect outcome. 30 Devour Utah • february 2020
Flavors can be subtle or bold. There is Liptauer, an unripened Hungarian cheese made from sheep’s milk, combined with paprika, capers, caraway seeds, anchovies and garlic. And there’s No Woman, named after the Bob Marley song, from Beecher’s Handmade Cheeses, that’s a jack-style flavored with a complex jerk blend and a bit of brown sugar. Utah has its own award-winning cheese artisans who have skillfully perfected some herb/cheese blends. Gold Creek Farms makes an eye-popping Cherry Sage Cheddar which shows off bits of local dried crimson cherries with green sage flecks. They also make a bright Rosemary Mint and a Bacon Chive Cheddar that’s perfect for a more adult version of a grilled cheese sandwich. Beehive Cheese features cheddars with unique, fragrant, flavorful rubs like espresso and lavender coated Barely Buzzed, Big John’s Cajun, Red Butte Hatch Chile and Teahive rubbed with Earl Grey tea. Heber Valley Artisan Cheese makes an award-winning, intensely flavored Wasatch Back Jack with notes of jalepeño, lime, sweet bell pepper and sundried tomatoes. Their Fuego Rojo is a fiesta of flavors: salsa rubbed cheddar with extra heat in the rind. Or try the Vanilla Bean-rubbed cheddar, which achieves a mellow smoothness after the zing of cheese has dissipated. Speaking of zing, Heber Valley’s Lemon Lavender is sure to refresh the palate. What are the inspirations for these combinations? Is the cheese mild, strong, pungent, hard or soft? Will it be sliced, melted, spread or just nibbled? A rule of thumb is milder cheeses
COURTESY PHOTO
TDB
Beehive Cheese Big John’s Cajun
such as chevre go well with milder herbs like chives, tarragon, dill and marjoram. Nothing beats traditional mozzarella with fresh basil. Briny feta can handle stronger, earthy herbs like oregano. Cheddar blends with bold sage and can balance with sweet or savory flavors. Versatile, creamy havarti combines with gentle dill or hot horseradish. Utah is fortunate to have cheesemongers such as Steven Rosenberg who choose to bring in the best and most authentic offerings. It’s worth spending time there to bring home a wedge of world-class cheese and, in my case, to marvel at the art and craft required to marry herbs with cheese to achieve uniquely flavored offerings. DIY HERBED CHEESE A cheese log is easy to make by mixing 8-ounces cream cheese and 8-ounces goat cheese. Roll the combo into a log and roll again in diced fresh herbs like chives, parsley and chervil to cover it in green. This can also be modified to make bite-size cheese balls. ❖ Devour Utah • february 2020 31
THINGS WE
2
LOVE n o i t i d E Cheese BY AIMEE L. COOK
3
1
1 Rogue River Blue
This blue cheese is the first U.S. cheese to win the top prize at the World Cheese Awards and is produced in Central Point, Oregon. The cheese is made from aged cows’ milk and wrapped in pear liqueur-soaked Syrah grape leaves. The result is a mild and creamy texture that melts in your mouth. “People who have been in the cheese world for a long time primarily will have a taste and a smell capability for defects in cheese,” said Steven Rosenberg, owner of Liberty Heights Fresh market. “These cheeses are very unique, and they hold absolutely no defects. They are extraordinary.” ($49.99 per pound)
2 Finca Pascualete
Pascualino
This cheese from Spain took home a bronze from the 2017-18 World Cheese Awards and is produced from raw sheep’s milk. The young cheese has sweet flavor profiles with a hard, dense texture and can stand alone on a cheese board. “People wonder why craft foods cost more,” Rosenberg says. “It is not made in a factory. People make this by hand. These are Old World traditions, done in an Old World way. No one cut any corners to make these.” ($40 each) Liberty Heights Fresh 1290 S. 1100 East, SLC 801-583-7374 LibertyHeightsFresh.com
32 Devour Utah • february 2020
4
3 Époisses de
Bourgogne
Also known as “stinky cheese,” Époisses is a soft cow’s milk cheese with a crust and a runny center from France’s Burgundy region. This year it took home eighth-place in the World Cheese Awards and was notably the only French cheese on WCA’s Top 16 Cheeses in the World. “Everyone talks about tertiary flavors, wine pairings, etc. I think that it is a bit illusive, but [the pairing experience] is guaranteed with Burgundian wine and Epoisses,” says Matt Caputo, Caputo CEO. “For me, if we don’t have this cheese, we are not a real cheese shop.” ($19.99 for 8.8 ounces)
4 The
Copper Caputo
The Copper Caputo is a collaboration between Caputo’s and Copper Onion. They start with a young Asiago and slathered in a thick reduction of Montmorency cherries, Luxardo liqueur and brandy made by Copper Onion. This cow’s milk cheese is then house-aged for 16 months to create a crunchy, moist paste with toffee and pecans notes that pops with cherry. Pair it with sherry, lambic beers and pinot noir. ($13.49 for 1/2 pound) ❖ Caputo’s Multiple locations Caputos.com
Devour Utah • february 2020 33
Devour This | Recipe
Tirokafteri & Tirokroketes SPICY CHEESE DIP & FRIED CHEESE BALLS RECIPES & PHOTOS BY ELENI SALTAS
S
ince ancient times, Greeks have cherished cheese. The earliest cheesemaking in Greece was described in Homer’s Odyssey, with the cyclops producing and storing cheese from sheep and goat milk—yes, it was the beginning of feta, the briny and tangy cheese found atop traditional Greek salads. Cheese finds its way onto tables at nearly every meal, to be eaten plain or with olives as an appetizer, baked in pies, pureed in dips or fried and set aflame. Feta has earned its place in the culinary world and is the most well-known cheese of Greece, but let’s not forget other stand outs like kasseri (springy in texture), halloumi (squeaky cheese), graviera (slightly sweet) and anthotyro (one of the oldest but lesserknown cheeses, but is cream heaven). You can find all but anthotyro in local markets such as Caputo’s, Black Cherry and Mediterranean Market. But since feta is the most popular and commonly available, here are two recipes that incorporate the beloved cheese.
Tirokafteri is a spicy feta cheese dip
Tirokafteri (Spicy Cheese Dip) Makes about 2 cups
Tirokafteri, meaning “hot cheese,” can be whipped up in minutes. The cheese itself isn’t what’s hot in this dish, it’s the other ingredients that pack a punch. For tirokafteri, sweet and spicy peppers are sautéed along with chili flakes (add more if you dare) and whipped together with feta cheese and Greek yogurt. The creamy dip can be served with grilled meats or vegetables, or as an appetizer with some chips or bread. Keep it spicy, as the name suggests.
Tirokroketes (fried cheese balls) are a favorite appetizer in Greece
Ingredients
3 to 4 sweet red peppers, seeded and chopped 1 pepperoncini or banana pepper, seeded and chopped 1 to 2 spicy red peppers, seeded and chopped* 2-3 sprinkles of chili flakes—use more for more heat 1⁄2 cup extra virgin olive oil 16 ounces soft feta cheese 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar 3 heaping tablespoons Greek yogurt *Hot red peppers are optional. Use 1 or 2 or none at all, depending on how hot you want the dip. The chili flakes alone are just enough kick for many people.
Process
Add half the olive oil to a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add all of the chopped peppers and chili flakes and sauté. Once the peppers have softened, take them off the heat and let them cool for about 10 minutes. Cut the feta into chunks and place into food processor or mixer. Add the yogurt, vinegar, and the grilled peppers, along with the oil accumulated from the pan. Mix everything together in the food processor until you have a smooth texture. With the mixer on medium speed, gradually add the remaining olive oil. Check for flavor and add more chili flakes for more spice, or more yogurt if it seems too salty. Empty into a bowl, garnish with chives or parsley, and serve with pita bread or vegetables.
34 Devour Utah • february 2020
Tirokroketes (Fried Cheese Balls) Makes about 14-16 cheese balls
Gooey on the inside, crunchy on the outside, tirokroketes are an easy way to utilize cheese. With three types of cheese: feta, graviera plus Gouda, this appetizer is sure to be a hit. Eat plain or dunk in your favorite dipping sauce— or even tirokafteri for cheese on cheese!
Ingredients
3 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 3 ounces graviera cheese, grated* 3 ounces gouda, grated 1 egg and 1 egg white ¼ cup milk ½ teaspoon paprika Pepper, to taste All-purpose flour, for dredging Vegetable oil, for frying *If you cannot find graviera cheese, you can use pecorino Romano, Parmesan, or Gruyere.
Process
In a mixing bowl, add the feta, graviera, gouda, eggs and milk. Combine mixture well and season with pepper and paprika. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, to allow the mixture to firm up. When the cheese mixture is ready, add some flour to a bowl or plate. Form the mixture and roll into balls, about golf-ball size. Then, roll the balls into flour and set aside. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep fry pan, to 350 degrees. Once hot enough, drop the cheese balls in batches so the pan isn’t overcrowded. Fry cheese balls until nicely colored and golden on all sides, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and place them on a plate lined with paper towels to absorb any excess oil. Serve warm and enjoy! ❖
Devour Utah • february 2020 35
Cheese r e Wine e +B Love
Wine’s gonna whine now that beer and cheese are an item STORY AND PHOTOS BY MEGAN WAGSTAFF
W
hat do frat boys and monks have in common? An enthusiastic appreciation for beer and cheese. Whether washing down pizza and nachos with a can of Bud Light or washing rinds of aging cheese with Trappist ale brewed in medieval monasteries, some might argue the marriage of beer and cheese is even more fitting than cheese and wine. One reason: The effervescence of beer is ideal for cutting through cheese’s inherent richness. The second reason: chemistry. Both beer and cheese are derived from gramineae, the family of grasses that function as both grain for beer and feed for cows, goats and sheep, of which the final products are essentially carbohydrates (beer) and fat (cheese). It’s the same relationship that makes pizza, fettuccine Alfredo or a simple piece of cheese on a sliced baguette so delicious. Here we break down some of the trickier cheese and beer pairings, lightest to heaviest, as a guide for your next cheese tasting, cocktail (beer) party or coursed dinner. All are available at state liquor stores or grocery stores, and all can be purchased directly from their respective breweries.
36 Devour Utah • february 2020
Burrata + Sour Fruit Ale
The simple pairing of fresh fruit and cream gets an adult twist when you combine soft cheese like burrata, mascarpone and brie with fruit-aged “brett” ales like Epic Brainless on Peaches, a Belgian-style ale with peach puree that has been aged in oak chardonnay casks. (Who says you can’t have wine and beer?) Less whipped cream and sugary jam, more just-picked stone fruit and dairy straight from the pail, this rustic pairing is perfect for kicking off a cheese and beer party or as a palate cleanser between courses. Epic Brewing Co. 825 S. State, SLC 801-906-0123 EpicBrewing.com
Spirit Guide
Goat + Saison
To taste goat cheese and saison together is to transport yourself to a sunny day on the farm. This tart and earthy cheese may be mistakenly labeled as “barnyard-y,” but that’s all the more reason it finds its counterpart in traditional farmhouse ales like Red Rock Le Quatre Saison. Yeast-forward and moderately hopped, there is a bread-like quality to this beer that almost makes you forget you picked up a baguette on the way home, while the beer’s tart and citrusy top notes make goat cheese sing. Take this pairing to the next level with a buttery goat cheese and asparagus quiche. Red Rock Beer Store 443 N. 400 West, SLC 801-214-3386 RedRockBrewing.com
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Devour Utah • february 2020 37
38 Devour Utah • february 2020
Spirit Guide
Parmesan + Gose
What exactly is the flavor of Parmesan? Fruity, nutty, savory or sharp? Sometimes it’s hard to tell because the underlying note is so salty. Pair like with like and sip on Proper Brewing Co. Lake Effect Gose. Traditionally, Germanic gose is made with over 50% wheat, and Lake Effect is no different. It also showcases a touch of coriander and is brewed with local salt, bring a unique terroir to the table that sets it apart from most other Utah brews. Serve bright and refreshing gose with dinner alongside caesar salad topped with freshly grated Parmesan and anchovy. Proper Brewing Co. 857 S. Main, SLC 801-953-1707 ProperBrewingCo.com
Cheddar + IPA
The rule of thumb for cheddar cheese goes like this: the sharper the cheddar, the hoppier the beer. And with such a wide variety of IPAs to choose from, you can customize your cheddar and beer pairings to your hearts delight. T.F. Brewing Co. Ferda Imperial IPA comes in at 8.2% ABV and is bursting with West Coast hops but finishes with slightly sweet and tropical notes, making it a crowd-pleasing hit. We wouldn’t expect anything less from owner Matt Templin, former head brewer at Red Rock Brewing Co. This cheese and beer duo is equally dynamic when cheddar is incorporated into mac n’ cheese or melted on top of a slice of apple pie. T.F. Brewing Co. 936 S. 300 West, SLC 385-270-5972 TFBrewing.com
Devour Utah • february 2020 39
Spirit Guide
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The bold and assertive flavors of blue cheese need a beer with backbone. Roha Nights Out Belgian Style Stout rises to the task with robust Belgian yeast, a hint of fruit and just the right amount of spice, resulting in a roasted, dark and chocolatey brew with generous head. When paired with the likes of creamy gorgonzola, Stilton or blue cheese, it easily holds its own as a memorable dessert to end your dinner party. For tastings, position this pairing last so it won’t overpower lighter selections. ❖
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Devour Utah • february 2020 41
Last Bite
Dairy Dreams ‘This is what I will do someday’ STORY AND PHOTOS BY CLAIRE MCARTHUR
I
t started with a stop at a coastal goat dairy farm in Pescadero, Calif., during college. “This,” I thought, while stuffing my face with samples of goat cheese after cooing at the baby goats, “this is what I will do someday.” I was smitten with the cute barn-turned-cheese shop with the loft stylishly converted into a private event space. I could taste the quality of the creamy chevre—one mixed with homegrown chives, another fresh lavender and the prettiest adorned with edible flowers in intricate formations. And the goats. I pictured myself waking up bright-eyed to feed and milk the goats that I’d named after herbs like Sage and Basil. I thought of the picnic tables I’d have on the property so that visitors could eat goat cheese (along with freshly baked bread and local wine I’d have in my shop, of course) with views of the farm. Since that day, I’ve carried this romantic notion in my mind of what it would be like to operate a small-scale goat dairy. Seven years later and a handful of mostly serious threats to my husband about getting goats in our backyard, I figured it was time to remove the rose-colored glasses and take a practical look at my dream. Enter Randy Ramsley of Mesa Farm in Caineville. “People say, ‘Oh, this is such a beautiful life,’ and I say, ‘Yeah, it’s heaven, and it’s hell,” says Ramsley, who purchased his 50-acre veggie farm in 1996 and added goats a decade later.
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Ramsley rises between 4 and 5 a.m. every day and works until 8 or 9 p.m. He and his crew milk roughly 50 doe, which he breeds each year to start the production of milk. From 20 gallons of milk, he produces roughly 20 pounds of cheese a day. “A goat is going to teach you patience, or it’s going to break you,” Ramsley says with a laugh. “… Goats are particularly good at the ‘grass is greener on the other side of the fence’—and they’ll find a hole through that fence.” Creating ways to keep your goats happy makes life easier, he says. He knows each goat by name and strives to “not take for granted any animal or lose sight of the fact that it is a unique expression of nature.” His philosophy on farm life is every bit as romantic as my own—just with a healthy dose of practicality. “There’s no money in farming, especially small-scale local agriculture, so you have to love it,” he says. “It’s physically, emotionally and intellectually demanding. But those are all good things because the vitality of life is to be engaged in those three ways. It’s always a learning process.” So, for every food-obsessed person who has thought wistfully of buying an old vineyard to bring it back to life, opening a brewery or perhaps purchasing an olive grove to produce small-batch EVOO, here’s hoping you meet your own version of Randy Ramsley before you hand over your nest egg. It’s good to know what you’re getting into. P.S. I haven’t quit dreaming my dream. ❖
BLUE CHEESE MARTINI
1.5oz Five Wives Premium Vodka .5oz dry vermouth splash of green olive brine Add to glass with ice and stir well to chill, strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with blue cheese stuffed olives.
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U O Y S E L A T A H W R O F D O GO
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44 Devour Utah • february 2020
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