VOL. 6 NO. 3 • MARCH 2020 • BRUNCH FREE COPY
the Brunch issue A DOZEN MUST-TRY BRUNCHES P. 12
BEYOND THE MIMOSA, P. 34
Hop on the
3 /2a2m 11
bus p. 38
Beguiling Breakfast Burritos P. 26
Devour Utah • march 2020 1
La Trattoria di Francesco
FROM THE FAMILY THAT BROUGHT YOU SICILIA MIA
All in the Family! 1500 S. 1500 E. | SALT LAKE CITY | 801-419-0730 | LATRATTORIADIFRANCESCO.COM
2 Devour Utah • March 2020
Devour Utah • march 2020 3
Contents
TUPELO BLODDY BAR BY DARBY DOYLE
8 Easy Like Sunday Morning
Four ways to feed a ‘Ben’ addiction BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE
12 Wake Up and Smell the Mimosas
Brunch is how we mix it up in 2020 BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
24 The Spread
Diversion Social Eatery BY NATALIE BEHRING
4 Devour Utah • March 2020
26 ¡Buen Provecho!
The breakfast burrito may be a simple feast, but there are some masterpieces out there BY ALEX SPRINGER
29 Things We Love Brunch edition
BY BROOKE CONSTANCE WHITE
31 Plate It
Gourmandise the Bakery’s Salmon en Croute BY HEATHER L. KING
33 Devour This Recipe Peach Rosemary Jam BY MEGAN WAGSTAFF
34 Think Outside the Magnum
Brunch cocktails that will make you forget about mimosas BY DARBY DOYLE
42 Last Bite
Park City day-drinking with a side of all-you-can-eat BY MAYA SILVER
Devour Utah • march 2020 5
Contributors STAFF Publisher PETE SALTAS Associate Publisher MICHAEL SALTAS Edi torial
Editor JERRE WROBLE Proofreaders LANCE GUDMUNDSEN, MEGAN WAGSTAFF, KASS WOOD Contributors NATALIE BEHRING, CAROLYN CAMPBELL, AIMEE L. COOK, DARBY DOYLE, CAIT LEE, MIKA LEE, HEATHER L. KING, MAYA SILVER, ALEX SPRINGER, MEGAN WAGSTAFF, BROOKE CONSTANCE WHITE
Natalie Behring is a photographer who loves the power of words. Having recently relocated to Utah with her border collie, she is an intrepid explorer of dirt roads and mountain paths, taking a bite of everything along the way.
Production
Art Director DEREK CARLISLE Graphic Artists SOFIA CIFUENTES, CHELSEA NEIDER, JENIFER TERRY
Business /Office
Accounting Manager PAULA SALTAS Office Administrators DAVID ADAMSON, SAMANTHA HERZOG Technical Director BRYAN MANNOS
Circulation
Circulation Manager ERIC GRANATO
Sales
Director of Sales and Marketing Digital Operations Manager Senior Account Executives Retail Account Executive
Mika and Cait Lee are food writers known for food binging, test kitchens and food photography. Their adventurous palates have taken them around the world. @crazyfullasians
TRINA BAGHOOMIAN ANNA PAPADAKIS DOUG KRUITHOF, KATHY MUELLER KELLY BOYCE
Alex Springer has been writing about local food and entertainment for the past seven years. A member of the Association of Food Journalists, his work has appeared in SLUG magazine and City Weekly, where he is currently the publication’s resident food dude.
On the cover: Campos Sourdough Benedict Photo by Cait Lee Distribution is complimentary throughout the Wasatch Front. Additional copies of Devour Utah are available for $4.95 at the Copperfield Media offices located at 175 W. 200 South, Ste. 100, Salt Lake City, UT 84101 • 801-716-1777 • DevourUtah.com Email Editor@DevourUtah.com Advertising contact: Sales@DevourUtah.com
Copperfield Publishing
Copyright 2020 All rights reserved
@DevourUtah
6 Devour Utah • March 2020
@DevourUtah
@DevourUtah
Brooke Constance White is obsessed with food. She can usually be found eating, making or talking about food. She also loves reading, traveling, hiking and gardening.
From the Editor
Vote for Brunch
P
oached eggs drenched in velvety sauces. Smoky breakfast meats and crisp bites of Yukon Golds. Fresh-brewed coffee and booze-fortified juices and cocktails. Ah, Sunday brunch.
But the caffeinated lattes and vodka-powered tomato juices also mean the “in-between” meal is one not all Utahns indulge in. While it’s making more of a weekend play, brunch is mostly served on the Sabbath—often in bars and pubs. Thus, going out for Sunday brunch isn’t totally in sync with conservative Utah values. In fact, it’s a good political guess that a high percentage of brunch-eaters want Bernie Sanders as the next U.S. president. Or Amy Klobuchar, Joe Biden, Elizabeth Warren, Pete Buttigieg or even—if brunching at an elite brunchery—Mike Bloomberg. (Not sure if I got them all, but the candidacy of any of the above is often a delicious brunch topic, intertwined with even more spirited exchanges about the present occupant of the White House. Ahh, Sunday brunch. Full-on relaxation. Sort of.) This is not to say that Trump supporters don’t also love brunch—certainly Mar-a-Lago serves a decent one. But when the leader of the free world eats breakfast, he’s just as likely to order an Egg McMuffin, especially while traveling—with no coffee or tea. No booze, either—maybe just a Diet Coke. Far be it from me to politicize brunch, but let’s face it: Brunch has consequences. Those who hue blue will cop a Bellini buzz and bemoan their outcast state. Meanwhile, the rouge ones deftly network before and after church services, oblivious of any missed brunch-aholic opportunities. To the “never on Sunday” no-brunch bunch, we can only say: Look for it on Saturdays, when it’s every bit as tasty. Brunch should not divide us. We can all enjoy eggs, can we not? Except for the vegans, I mean. OK, then, how about oatmeal? With fresh berries. Who can object? Better yet, try the vegan Thai omelet at Chabaar Beyond Thai in Midvale. Those who renounce eggs and bacon might delight in the dim sum at Taylorsville’s Red Maple, served from rolling carts on weekends starting at 10 a.m. or the affordable all-you can-eat Indian buffet at Ganesh on Fort Union Boulevard beginning at 11 a.m. This cholesterol-rich issue highlights some of the more creative Benedicts in town along with inspired servings of caramelized kimchi, eggs over green chili and fried chicken and biscuits, breakfast burritos and even fancy toast. No matter your religious or political stripe, it’s a joy to discover how local chefs are meeting the challenge of brunch, making it nothing less than a weekly special occasion. Perhaps nowhere is it more special than at the Glitretind at Stein Eriksen Lodge in Park City, my personal favorite place to spend an income-tax refund. From valet parking to the booties handed to skiers who ski in, the Sunday Jazz Brunch is a welcoming mountain feast where culinary wonders such as maple-glazed-bacon pancakes and banana Foster crepes are on offer (reserve a table for this one). So, get your brunch on. Invite a friend from the opposite political persuasion and break croissants together. Just watch your intake of Bellinis, though. ❖ —Jerre Wroble
Noshing News Saturdays through April 18 Winter Farmers Market
Now in its seventh season, Winter Market is an extension of the summer Downtown Farmers Market and is just the place for local products such as greenhouse-grown veggies and herbs, grass-fed meats, cheese, honey, jam, breads and salsa. Saturdays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., free admission. Rio Grande Depot, 300 S. Rio Grande Street, SLC, SLCFarmersMarket.org
March 4-7: Red, White & Snow
A four-day food and wine extravaganza, Red, White & Snow raises funds for the National Ability Center, a center for adaptive sport, recreation and educational programs in Park City. Activities include a winemaker reception and kick-off concert at O.P. Rockwell, Uncorked at Stein Eriksen Lodge. Wine on the Mountain at St. Regis Deer Valley, vintner dinners in private homes and a now sold-out gala dinner and auction at Montage Deer Valley. Don’t forget to bring your Gold Card and a designated driver. Park City & Deer Valley, 435-200-0990, RedWhiteAndSnow.org
March 14: Snowbird’s Pairing Series
Sip and savor the wine of Donkey & Goat Winery while enjoying a four-course menu. Winery owner Jared Brandt will also be on-hand to describe the tasting notes and the winemaking process. 6:30 p.m., cocktails & appetizers; 7 p.m., Seated four-course dinner with wine pairings. The Aerie, Snowbird Cliff Lodge, 9320 Cliff Lodge Drive, No. 88, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Snowbird.com. Reservations: 801-933-2160
March 21: Spring Beer Fest 2020
Presented by Ogden Downtown Alliance, this spring bash brings chefs, brewers and producers together to celebrate and restore historic Union Station. $20 ticket includes three sample pours and one $5 food item. 5-9 p.m. Union Station, 2501 Wall Ave., Ogden, OgdenDowntown.com/spring-beer-fest
March 25-31 Heber Valley Restaurant Week 2020
Heber Valley now has more than 30 non-chain restaurants, and most are participating in Restaurant Week with $7 and $10 lunch specials, and $15 and $25 dinner specials. Now’s your chance to check out The Old Goat, Spin Café, Snake Creek Grill, Midway Mercantile and more! Visit the Heber Valley Chamber of Commerce’s website for participating restaurants and specials. GoHeberValley.com/RestaurantWeek
March 28-29: Chocolate & Cheese Festival
Satisfy those choco-cheese cravings at this twoday event (the seventh annual) featuring producers and purveyors. Sample, experience and purchase handcrafted chocolate, cheese and other gourmet food from local artisans. Workshops involving chocolate and/or cheese are offered for additional fees. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Museum admission is required to attend the festival. Natural History Museum of Utah, 301 S. Wakara Way, SLC, NHMU.Utah.edu/ events/2020-chocolate-cheese-festival ❖ —Jerre Wroble
Devour Utah • march 2020 7
y s a E
W
Like Sunday Morning Four ways to feed a ‘Ben’ addiction STORY AND PHOTOS BY MIKA LEE & CAIT LEE
Ca mpos ’ Sourdou gh Be ne di c t 8 Devour Utah • March 2020
ake up, little sleepyhead. It’s Sunday, and a luscious mid-morning meal awaits. Nothing helps get the day started better than a pair of eggs cooked just so, smothered in tart creamy sauce that also happens to drench your toast. Umm, that sounds like eggs Benedict, does it not? And if they’re on order, you pretty much have to go out because homemade hollandaise is not exactly “easy like Sunday morning.” Either the sauce is ready, and the eggs aren’t, or the eggs are overcooking while you’re finishing the sauce. Making your own eggs Benedict is laudable, but it denies you the chance to experience the lavish iterations of eggs and hollandaise that abound in Salt Lake’s ever-expanding brunch scene. So, get out there and broaden your horizons, knowing that Pope Benedict XIII (who led the Catholic Church from 1724 to 1730), would probably roll over in his grave knowing his simple meal has become the decadent hangover cure that it is today. Yes, we’ve heard tell of those Johnnycome-lately claims of Gilded Age New Yorkers by the last name of Benedict who are credited with requesting the dish at famous brunch spots like Delmonico’s and the Waldorf Astoria in the late 1800s. But Pietro Orsini is most likely the namesake. Elected pope at 76 years old, he reportedly lived on a diet of poached eggs and dry toast to cope with digestive issues. The cooks livened up the dish with a lemon sauce and voila! eggs Benedict were born. In 1862, Delmonico’s chef de cuisine, Charles Ranhofer, is said to have fortified the pope’s dish by adding ham and substituting an English muffin for toast, creating the brunch staple we know today. Eggs Benedict have come a long way since, and local creative geniuses continue to showcase their culinary skills in the dishes that follow.
The Brunch Issue
Swe e
t L a ke ’s Cuba no Me a t Bi sc u Be n e d i t i ct
EGGS BENEDICT ON SOURDOUGH BREAD
CUBANO MEAT BISCUIT BENEDICT
Campos Roastery & Kitchen, 228 Edison St., SLC, 801-953-1512; Campos Coffee, 1385 Lowell Ave., Ste. AC-106, Park City, 435-731-8377; US.CamposCoffee.com Breakfast served Monday-Sunday, 8 a.m.-4 p.m.
Sweet Lake Biscuits & Limeade 54 W. 1700 South, SLC, 801-953-1978; 519 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-998-8155 SweetLakeFresh.com Breakfast served Monday-Friday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.; SaturdaySunday, 7 a.m.-4 p.m.
At Campos, the eggs Benedict and coffee are as aesthetically pleasing and delicious as the surroundings. Chef Amanda Huse uses local and made-fromscratch items as much as possible to create this delectable spin on their eggs Benedict. Standing in for the English muffin is a slice of sourdough bread baked from scratch in-house, topped with a choice of prosciutto or local trout (that can vary depending on the season). Micro greens top the freshly made hollandaise sauce. Brunch is never complete without a good cup of joe, and it’s saying something that the Salt Lake City Campos location roasts coffee beans for all of North America. In need of vitamin D? As spring arrives, the patio seating is a wonderful space to enjoy the sunshine, a Benedict, cuppa Joe and/or maybe even a blood orange mimosa. The Park City location is more of a grab ’n’ go style, where you may order from a more limited menu of brunch foods (some served as an Australian “jaffle,” or toasted-sandwich). “We want people to come to Campos and say that they want to come here for our Benedict,” Huse says. That’s just what the soul needs when it’s Sunday morning coming down.
Hasen “Hoss” Cone and Teri Rosquist started Sweet Lake Biscuits & Limeade in 2016 after having spent more than a decade cultivating a limeade following at the Downtown Farmers Market. In November 2019, they launched a new spacious Draper location, serving the same delicious breakfast food, including the unique Cubano meat biscuit Benedict. “You can only come to Sweet Lake to get this food,” Cone says. They top their freshly baked biscuits with slow-roasted chuck that’s marinated in housemade habanero sauce. The ham, tomato and poached cage-free egg are added and garnished with the house hollandaise sauce and green onions. Add on a side of red quinoa potato hash browns, and Sundays will never be the same.
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10 Devour Utah • March 2020
The Brunch Issue
s Ave nue Be e r P r ope r ct Be n e d i
PROPER BEER BENEDICT
Avenues Proper’s made-from scratch eggs Benny is all about originality and execution. “Everything on a plate should have a purpose,” says Jeff Springer, longtime executive chef for Proper Brewing. “We focus on what’s going to make your mouth happy.” Springer and his team of chefs create rotating menus to showcase their culinary inspirations. Avenues Proper chef de cuisine Landon Eastabrook’s Proper Beer Benedict is lately gaining traction with an English muffin elevated with a secret ingredient: You guessed it—Proper beer. Atop the muffin, you’ll find sliced avocado under a gooey poached egg dressed with a smoked, sundried tomato hollandaise and garnished with house-pickled jalapenos. Eastabrook recommends adding their Traeger-smoked brisket for a heartier brunch. Pairing it with Proper English Golden Ale will make it another pleasant valley Sunday. Avenues Proper Restaurant & Publick House, 376 E. Eighth Ave., SLC, 385-227-8628, AvenuesProper.com Brunch served Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.
MEATBALL EGGS BENEDICT n Bourbo House a ll Me a t b ct Be n e d i
Some may consider Bourbon House a quintessential college bar—known for serving up classic cocktails and signature shots late into the night. But not everyone is aware of its weekend boozy brunch menu. Native Utahn and executive chef Matt Crandall credits Bourbon House with helping to innovate bar cuisine in Salt Lake City, not only by improving the bar scene, but by establishing “a place where people can regularly come, rather than for a special occasion,” Crandall says. Brunchers can anticipate a solid list of mouthwatering items, with unique interpretations of traditional dishes. The meatball Benedict is a blend of juicy veal, pork and beef, slow cooked in a fresh herb and tomato niçoise, then topped with delicately poached eggs and choron bearnaise sauce. Prices are reasonable and sure to attract a regular crowd as nothing on the brunch menu is over $10. With offerings like Guinness stout whiskey syrup pancakes and a roasted vegetable Benedict, it won’t be long until your brunch bunch is livin’ for the weekend. ❖ Bourbon House, 19 E. 200 South, SLC, 801746-1005, BourbonHouseSLC.com Brunch served Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Devour Utah • march 2020 11
Mimosas Wake Up and Smell the
Whether with friends or family, or the love of your life, brunch is how we mix it up in 2020 BY THE DEVOUR STAFF
AIMEE L. COOK
SLC Eatery’s carmelized kimchi bowl
12 Devour Utah • March 2020
t’s easy enough to fry up eggs and a rasher of bacon. Add a side of toast and a splash of Tapatio for good measure. There you have it: Sunday breakfast best enjoyed while wearing your favorite unicorn onesie and streaming a season of The Witcher on Netflix. But you can do better. Your best life is calling. Brunch gives us a reason to meet and mingle with those we care about, if only for a few hours. From dim sum to paella to huevos rancheros, the sky’s the limit when it comes to what to eat. There are no rules. In addition, we can enhance our meal with decadent beverages—and experience the Utah novelty of imbibing before noon if we can get our bad selves out of bed. Mimosas, anyone? More and more eateries are jumping on the weekend brunch train, creating enticing dishes that layer more bacon, avocado and hollandaise toppings than can possibly be good for us. But so what? It’s the weekend, and that’s how we roll. So, put on your Sunday finest (ideally, something with an elastic waistband) and hit up your peeps with a “Let’s do brunch” text. Should you need inspiration about what to order, we’ve assembled a list of a dozen dishes that crush brunch. If we missed brunch haunts you’re crazy about, post your faves on Devour Utah’s social media.
The Bistro Beat Cotton Kitchen’s pork green chili
CARMELIZED KIMCHI BOWL
You might say the menu at SLC Eatery is more fluid than what appears in print. With innovative takes on the classics, chefs Logen Crew and Paul Chamberlain pride themselves on their evolving cuisine that takes patrons on a journey of unique flavor combinations. One of their explorations on the brunch menu is the caramelized kimchi bowl, a hearty serving of bulgogi beef, rice, green onion relish and lime aioli that’s topped with a poached egg. “Our inspiration for the kimchi bowl was to have a fun take on steak and eggs, in the SLC Eatery fashion,” Chamberlain says. “We are trying to separate our brunch from dinner while staying in line with our whole concept. Our menu is always going to have a few different items than normal menus, but we hope it resonates with families, first dates, birthdays and of course the foodies that are out every Saturday and Sunday morning supporting local restaurants.” (Aimee L. Cook) SLC Eatery, 1017 S. Main, SLC, 801-355-7952, SLCEatery.com
DEREK CARLISLE
COURTESY PHOTO
Oak Wood Fire Kitchen chicken & biscuits
PORK GREEN CHILI
CHICKEN AND BISCUITS
Cotton Kitchen, 3158 E. 6200 South, Holladay, 385274-4749, CottonKitchenUtah.com
Oak Wood Fire Kitchen, 715 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-996-8155, OakWoodFireKitchen.com
Emerson Oliveira knows a thing or two about serving up a great breakfast or brunch. As owners of Park City’s Bridge Café and Grill and Flying Sumo Sushi, Oliveira and wife Juliana Klein now operate Cotton Kitchen at the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon, creating quick and easy upscale dining. The pork green chili is a spicy dish served with confetti bell peppers, sour cream, cilantro, a poached egg and sourdough toast. It’s a great way to get your juices flowing in the a.m. “Even though our prices are a bit higher compared to the average breakfast place, I think we accomplished our vision,” Oliveira says. “Taste, presentation, service and our space itself shows that. Our menu was inspired from international cuisine, but each individual dish has a touch of class and beauty, and tastes like nothing [else] out there.” (Aimee L. Cook)
When you’ve perfected fried chicken like chef Brandon Price has, it just makes sense to utilize that protein in various dishes, and what better way than adding a new twist to chicken and biscuits? The menu item offers Price’s Nashville fried chicken thigh on his housemade rosemary-andParmesan drop biscuits dressed with warm maple syrup, pickled mustard seeds and a generous spoonful of caviar. Sounds decadent, no? The dish is presented in a stack like a Benedict. “I just feel like biscuits in general are too fussy,” Price says, adding, “A drop biscuit has the same functionality [as rolled] with a little less dryness,” he says, and you can stuff it with whatever you like. (Aimee L. Cook)
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14 Devour Utah • March 2020
The Bistro Beat
The Brunch Issue
PORK BREAKFAST BOWL
Tradition’s pork breakfast bowl
Elevated comfort food is the term that springs to mind when describing the cuisine at Tradition. From the communal dining experience to the housemade offerings, dining here definitely reminds you of home cooking, but with a talented culinary twist. The pork breakfast bowl has a Southern flair with its grits and chili cocoa bean flavors, which is enhanced by the generous portion of smoked pork shoulder, sour cream, salsa verde and two eggs cooked how you like them. “We smoke the pork shoulder inhouse and add a bit of cocoa to our black beans to give them that unique flavor,” said Ashton Aragon, co-owner. The biscuits and the orange rolls are made in house, and the gravy is made with Beltex sausage.” (Aimee L. Cook)
AIMEE L. COOK
Tradition, 501 E. 900 South, SLC, 385-202-7167, TraditionSLC.com
THE VEGGIE PETA BREAKFAST SANDWICH
DEREK CARLISLE
Many of us know about glamping in a yurt, but brunching in one? It was new to us when we stopped at Roots Cafe in Millcreek. From late October to midApril, they set up a wintertime yurt on the patio to expand their indoor seating and keep wait times down. In the warmer months, the patio reopens for outdoor seating. While grooving on your yurt environment, it’s a good time to order their popular veggie PETA breakfast sandwich featuring housemade pesto on Parmesan rosemary ciabatta bread, two eggs, veggie sausage, heirloom tomato (in season) and pepper jack—you won’t be disappointed. Feeling thirsty? Owner Wendy Haymond says customers love their fresh-pressed juices, particularly the Cleanser, made with carrot, apple, beet, lemon and ginger, or the Hydrator, which features pineapple, banana, spinach, lime and coconut water. (Brooke Constance White)
Roots Cafe’s veggie PETA breakfast sandwich
Roots Café, 3474 S. 2300 East, East Millcreek, 801-277-6499, RootsCafeSLC.com Devour Utah • march 2020 15
A magazine about adventure isn’t just about going places. It’s about the people and companies who help us get out there.
Burger Bowls | Pizza | Tacos | Filled Portabellas Full Bar | Big Screen TVs | Board Games Ask about Catering! low-carb and gluten free options along with a kid-friendly mini menu
IT’S A MONDAY Double Pepperoni & Double Cheese Pizza $6.99 OPEN MIC NIGHT 6:30-9PM
TACO TUESDAY Your choice of any 2+ Tacos $2.50
SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH
Food menu Available from 11am to 3pm $3 Mimosas | $6 Boozie Coffees | NEW $6 Boneyard Bloodys
LIVE MUSIC 12:30PM-3PM SUNDAYS
16 Devour Utah • March 2020
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THIRSTY THURSDAY Pint of Beer or Tall Boy w/shot $5.00 12oz. Can of Roha Thursday $3.00 LIVE MUSIC 6PM -8PM
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The Brunch Issue
The Bistro Beat Ruth’s Diner’s pulled pork Benedict
PULLED PORK BENEDICT
Even without a brunch menu, Ruth’s Diner is a brunch institution. They’ve been serving “breakfast for lunch” longer than many—and possibly any—other brunch spot in town. Co-owner Tracy Nelson and her husband, Erik, feel like they are carrying on the legacy of Ruth Evans, who founded the restaurant in downtown Salt Lake City in 1930. The fluffy Mile High Biscuits are amazingly light, and the flavorful, homemade raspberry jam really sets them off. Tracy says Ruth’s customers love delectable, interesting fare such as the pulled pork Benedict with both barbecue sauce and hollandaise sauce and the cinnamon roll French toast accompanied by lemon cream cheese. The crab and avocado omelet is enhanced by green onions and cream cheese, while the chicken-fried steak Benedict hits the spot with its country gravy and hollandaise sauce. “People come here to find comfort,” Tracy says. “We rarely change the menu because customers like to go where the food is consistent.” (Carolyn Campbell)
COURTESY PHOTO
Ruth’s Diner, 4160 Emigration Canyon Road, SLC, 801-582-5807, RuthsDiner.com
NORWEGIAN WAFFLE
DEREK CARLISLE
Norwegian waffle at Finn’s Cafe
Many of the dishes that Finn Gurholt serves at Finn’s Café reflect his family’s long history in the restaurant business and a deep appreciation for Scandinavian food. He uses a sourdough starter that he believes is 100 years old in his sourdough breads, pancake batter and jule kake, a French toast-flavored loaf with cardamom, black raisin and citron that’s dipped in a cinnamon cream batter. The Norwegian waffle is made from Finn’s mother’s recipe, to which he adds cardamom and ginger. It’s accompanied with wild lingonberries and sour cream. “Sixty-five percent of the food we serve is brunch food,” he says. There’s the Scandinavian breakfast, which features poached red trout from Buhl, Idaho, with Finn’s tartar sauce, a choice of two eggs and the hash browns that are peeled, blanched and grilled fresh daily. The rosti, a Swiss mountain dish, is made from the hash browns, bacon cheddar cheese and onion. Omelets and a variety of delicious danishes—including the white raisin cinnamon, cream cheese and poppy seed, almond paste and raspberry and pan chocolate—round out the delicious brunch fare. Velbekomme! (Carolyn Campbell) Finn’s Café, 1624 S. 1100 East, SLC, 801-467-4000, FinnsCafe.net
Devour Utah • march 2020 17
The Brunch Issue
Pubtastic Grub
HUB CAPS
Lucky 13 Bar & Grill (21 and over), 135 W. 1300 South, SLC, 801-487-4418, Lucky13SLC.com; Lucky’s Iron Door Roadhouse (all ages), 3754 W. Center View Way, West Jordan, 801-878-9439, LuckysIronDoor.com
Lucky 13’s Hub Caps
COURTESY PHOTO
Lucky 13 takes the concept of comfort brunch to the next level with Hub Caps, a dish that begins with two biscuits baked fresh daily by a local baker. They’re topped with two eggs any style and covered with house-smoked bacon gravy and served with your choice of grilled black forest ham or two pieces of house-smoked bacon. Or, there’s the Hangover Buster, a tall stack of home fries beneath melted cheddar cheese, two eggs any style, house-smoked bacon and black forest ham. Co-owner Rob Dutton, who opened Lucky 13 in 2009, describes the casual Sunday brunch atmosphere at Lucky 13 as “laid back, comfortable, relaxing, and enjoyable. It’s what you would find in a comfort-food place, but we’ve changed and elevated it with our house-smoked bacon and attention to detail.” With the addition of a second location in Jordan Landing, Dutton looks forward to many more Sunday brunches “and hopefully, soon, Saturday brunches, too.” (Carolyn Campbell)
801.485.1031 | 2057 East 3300 South | finecandies.com 18 Devour Utah • March 2020
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20 Devour Utah • March 2020
The Brunch Issue
Pubtastic Grub
BREAKFAST PIZZA
COURTESY PHOTO
Breakfast pizza at Slackwater Pub & Pizzeria
Slackwater Pub and Pizzeria, 10290 S. State, Sandy, 801-930-5147; 1895 Washington Blvd., Ogden, 801-3990637; SlackwaterPizzeria.com
Zest’s vegan chickpea omelet with portobello mushrooms, jalapeno, arugula and cashew cheese
DEREK CARLISLE
Ogden favorite Slackwater Pub & Pizzeria opened their second location in Sandy late in 2019. Almost immediately, Salt Lake diners began lining up for their inventive pies made in the massive pizza oven that can cook 48 pizzas at a time and a sip of nearly 250 craft beers on tap and bottle. Built to seat 225 people in the winter and 320 when both patios are open, this south valley hot spot is a culinary destination on Sundays, where brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Enjoy the popular breakfast pizza ($10) loaded with potatoes, sausage, bacon and eggs on top of a creamy hollandaise base and Slackwater’s three-cheese blend. Pair it with a rather creative sake bloody mary for a true Sunday Funday. Another tasty addition to the Sandy brunch menu is the chile verde eggs Benedict (one of three eggs Benny options) that you can wash down with a glass or carafe of Stinger Hard Cider mimosas. (Heather L. King)
VEGAN CHICKPEA OMELET
Zest Kitchen & Bar has long made a name for itself in downtown Salt Lake serving an organic, 100% plant-based menu in a bright, clean space that feels fresh and welcoming to diners of every persuasion. Guests order the vegan chickpea omelet ($12) enough to make it one of the restaurant’s most popular items—thanks to the a flavorful (and colorful) mix of seasonal vegetables that come together for a healthy, earthy entrée paired with Zest’s famous root veggie hash. Owner Casey Staker and his team take their plantbased philosophy all the way to their boozy brunch drink menu, featuring a vegan bloody mary as well as fresh-juiced mimosa blends like beet apple ginger, green juice and, of course, fresh squeezed orange and grapefruit. Enjoy all these items seven days a week! (Heather L. King) Zest Kitchen & Bar, 275 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-433-0589, ZestSLC.com
Devour Utah • march 2020 21
Stay warm with your friends at
20 W. 200 S. SLC | (801) 355-3891
22 Devour Utah • March 2020
The Brunch Issue
Pubtastic Grub
AIMEE L. COOK
HANGTOWN FRY
DEREK CARLISLE
Brewvies brunch nachos
Hangtown fry at White Horse
I love good food with history. There’s something about knowing why or how a tasty dish came to be that makes it even more enjoyable. Such is the case with the Hangtown Fry. Made famous during the California Gold Rush in the 1850s, the original version was a type of omelet with eggs, bacon and fried, breaded oysters. Using the most expensive ingredients available, the Hangtown Fry was a celebratory treat for miners who had struck it rich. “Our version is more of a deconstructed version with our house bacon, fried oysters and soft scrambled eggs layered over Lyonnaise potatoes then topped with remoulade,” said Matt Crandall, food & beverage director and partner with the Bourbon Group. “The smoky pork belly along with crispy oysters, soft eggs and spicy remoulade are one of my favorite things to have for brunch.” (Aimee L. Cook) White Horse, 325 S. Main, SLC, 801-3630137, WhiteHorseSLC.com
BRUNCH NACHOS
Is there anything better than watching a classic movie on Sunday morning while eating brunch? On the big screen, no less? We think not. And now with Brewvies free Sunday brunch movies and $3 mango mimosas, you can do it on the cheap. Try out their killer $5 brunch nachos or other staples such as eggs, bacon, sausage and pancakes. You can build your own omelets or breakfast burritos, and there’s even oatmeal for vegans. Every month has a different theme, so visit their Facebook page to offer your input for what you’d like to see. At Brewvies Salt Lake, the brunch movie is 21+. Doors open at 10:30 a.m. and the free movie starts at 11 a.m. At Brewvies Ogden, the theater is open to ages 3 and up. Doors open at 11 a.m. with the movie starting at 11:30 a.m. (Brooke Constance White) ❖ Brewvies Salt Lake, 677 S. 200 West, SLC, 801-355-5500; Brewvies Ogden, 2293 Grant Ave., Ogden, 801-392-2012, Brewvies.com
Devour Utah • march 2020 23
The Brunch Issue
DIVERSION’S B(E)LT salad
the
Spread Diversion Social Eatery
A
lthough it’s cloudy outside, sunlight has found a way to blast into Diversion Social Eatery through a wall of windows. It’s best described as part cozy diner, part mod living room. Ryan Peterson and his wife, Jennifer Stone, have created a comfortable atmosphere in this Marmalade eatery known for serving up All-American foods, such as burgers, tacos, pizza and salads, that can be adapted to suit a variety of preferences. That means food choices for all, plus full bar service. A long banquet, with a pink and blue patina, lines the wall. Tables are adjacent to one another so if you are feeling gregarious
24 Devour Utah • March 2020
STORY AND PHOTOS BY NATALIE BEHRING
you could spark up a conversation with your neighbor. The sophisticated steel-blue interior and brushed metal countertops are contrasted by an unassuming shelf of board games and signs intended to be hokey conversationstarters, asking “What’s the weirdest thing you ever ate?” or “What color makes you the happiest?” The food is healthy. Not a single item on the menu is fried—it’s all baked. Petersen says he and his wife both went on a health kick, which the menu reflects. Regardless of your dietary needs, there’s something for vegans, vegetarians, gluten-free, Keto or those who are just plain old hungry.
The fast-casual eatery uses the counterservice method of ordering and paying at the register. Peterson says he thought of parents and people with appointments; there’s no need for them to flag down a server and get the bill. When you’re done, you leave. Patrons can bring their offspring and treat them to favorite kids’ meals such as cheese quesadillas or tacos. Meanwhile, Mom or Dad can order an adult beverage with their meal. And maybe, there’ll be a calm minute during which to catch a game on one of the TVs while the kids amuse themselves with board games. Brunch is no different. Dainty mimosas ($3) pair seamlessly with a breakfast pizza that
Breakfast pizza
Diversion’s poutine with baked french fries
A bloody mary goes well with everything
may be the most quintessential brunch dish ever. Made in two sizes—10 or 16 inches—the pies are topped with marinara sauce, eggs, mozzarella and crunchy crispy, julienned bacon. Something magical happens with the eggs and cheese in the oven which makes the pizza light and fluffy, gentle enough for breakfast but with a flavorful “lunchy” punch. The B(E)LT breakfast salad ($7.99) is made with greens, tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, two bespoke eggs, bacon and the star of the show, a garlicky guacamole with personality. Gorgonzola dressing is served on the side, help you control your dressing intake. For something heartier, try the steak and egg poutine ($9.99). Served in
a jumbo-size bowl, baked fries are draped with tender steak slices and then covered with gravy, an egg and diced tomatoes. This dish begs to be washed down with a tangy bloody mary ($5) or the house beer, Diversion Pilsner. Brunch is served on weekends from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. The place is humming around noon with a band playing classic covers. Living up to its name, the restaurant is a place where people can hang out and find a true change of pace. ❖ Diversion Social Eatery 535 N. 300 West, Ste. H-104, SLC 801-657-7326 DiversionEatery.com
Devour Utah • march 2020 25
The Brunch Issue
¡Buen Provecho!
Penny Ann’s Cafe smothered burrito packs some heat
The breakfast burrito may be a simple feast, but there are masterpieces out there STORY AND PHOTO BY ALEX SPRINGER
I
t’s easy to disregard the breakfast burrito as a work of mediocrity. But, like any act of creativity, such simplification runs the risk of overlooking something truly great. Yes, mediocre breakfast burritos abound, but the same could be said of all mainstream art, music and literature. Most of it is garbage, but there are always diamonds in the rough. There are burritos where cooks use a tortilla as a playground for finely layered colors, textures and flavors in the same way that artists use their canvas and oils—and here’s where to get them.
Chicken Verde Breakfast Burrito
I’ve enjoyed many breakfasts at this establishment on the outskirts of Sugar House but none so unexpectedly soul-satisfying as their chicken verde breakfast burrito ($9.49). A lot of my affection can be attributed to the copious amounts of homemade chile verde that smother the burrito proper. The interior contains a balanced cargo of eggs, cheese and grilled chicken, but when it all collides with that herbaceous, slightly spicy chile verde, you get something magical. The burrito and the chile verde would be prime examples of edible artistry on their own, but there’s something complementary about the way they tease their flavors into delectable combinations that must be experienced to be believed. Blue Plate Diner, 2041 S. 2100 East, 801-463-1151
Rise & Shiner
While I appreciate a breakfast burrito that relies on the nuances of its ingredients, I also admire those that wind up and punch me in the face. Such is the Rise & Shiner ($7) at Sweeto Burrito. This monster wears its bold flavors and massive amounts of steak, eggs and tater tots like the
26 Devour Utah • March 2020
arrogant luchadores from which Sweeto Burrito takes its aesthetic inspiration. Where I’ve been turned off by the often overpowering sweetness of the restaurant’s signature Neato Sauce elsewhere on the menu, the marinated steak, diced fried eggs and tater tots provide such a wall of savory that they’re a perfect contrast for the sauce’s sweetness. Sweeto Burrito, multiple locations, SweetoBurrito.com
Machaca Burrito
I mainly visit Lone Star for fish tacos, but I can occasionally be convinced to try one of their bodacious burritos when I’m feeling particularly hungry. Their machaca burrito is a metric ton of cheesy scrambled eggs, pinto beans and fresh pico de gallo. Though most machacas I have known consist of a mixture of shredded beef and eggs, Lone Star flips that ratio—its machaca is primarily meatless. All the same, it represents an interesting contrast. Its size indicates a burrito that will slap you around a bit, but the freshness and quantity of the pico makes this feel a bit like a colossal veggie omelet. I recommend this for anyone seeking a burrito that cuts its savory notes with lots of tomato, onion and cilantro. Lone Star Taqueria, 2265 E. Fort Union Boulevard, Cottonwood Heights, 801-944-2300, lstaq.com
Smothered Breakfast Burrito With Sausage
Much like the aforementioned Blue Plate Diner, Penny Ann’s is a bacon and eggs kind of joint that is secretly packing some breakfast burrito heat. There are two ways to get this entrée, and the smothered option ($10.79) with sausage is the way to go. I’ve tried it with ham and bacon, but the chile verde here doesn’t play as nicely with them as it does with some smoky, spicy sausage. I see this burrito and its cousin from Blue Plate as two sides of one coin. Where Blue Plate’s burrito is defined by its subtlety and balance, this one is more aggressive with its flavors—especially if you throw sausage into the mix. Penny Ann’s Café, multiple locations, PennyAnnsCafe.com
Breakfast Burrito With Ham
There are a zillion of these places and their similarly named cousins around town, but the West Jordan location is where you can get a true masterpiece of the breakfast-burrito medium. I prefer this one with ham instead of bacon or sausage, but it’s consistently great regardless of the meat you take with you. I’ve visited this location several times, almost hoping that once they would mess this up and deliver something that was just OK, but every time I get a meal with the perfect ratio of eggs, cheese, grilled ham and potatoes. It’s nothing less than poetry. ❖ Rancherito’s Mexican Food, 7849 S. Redwood Road, West Jordan, 801-566-0083
Devour Utah • march 2020 27
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28 Devour Utah • March 2020
1
THINGS WE
LOVE n o i t i d E Brunch
3
BY BROOKE CONSTANCE WHITE
4 2 1 Bodum Chambord French Press
Coffee Maker
If your morning coffee is no longer the best part of waking up, you should be brewing it in a Bodum Chambord French Press. Not only does it make coffee brewing simple (just add coarse ground coffee and hot water that’s between 9296 degrees, wait four minutes and press), but it’s much more flavorful than your average drip pot with paper filters. By steeping the coffee in the glass carafe, you will be able to taste all the flavor because the grounds are completely saturated. Bodum Chambord’s three-part stainless-steel plunger has a mesh filter that helps extract your brew’s aromatic oils and subtle flavors. The stainless-steel-filter plate is key to straining the ground coffee from the liquid after the brewing has stopped. Made with heat resistant and taste-neutral Borosilicate glass, this French press also maintains the correct water temperature throughout the process, which is crucial to the end result. Its large size makes 8 cups of coffee—ideal for brunch with friends. $42.99 for the 8-cup size.
2 Lodge 12-Inch
Cast-Iron Skillet
A cast-iron skillet is a must for any kitchen but for brunch food, the Lodge 12-Inch Cast-Iron Skillet is an absolute game changer. Lodge has been making heirloom-quality castiron cookware in the U.S. since 1896. Nothing comes close when it comes to the skillet’s abililty to retain heat and to heat evenly. It comes seasoned with nontoxic soy-based vegetable oil, and this enables you to begin using the skillet the minute you bring it home from the store. For use on your stovetop, in your oven and even over a campfire, cast iron can be used with any heat source (except microwave ovens). It’s perfect for making frittatas, shakshuka and any kind of brunch hash. The skillet is durable and will last for decades. Pass it on through the generations; the seasoning will keep getting better with time. $39.99.
3 Poach Pods
Poaching any egg isn’t easy. Most people never master it, but to be honest, there’s really no need to with these poach pods that perfectly poach your eggs. All you do is boil water, crack an egg into the silicone cup and then set it in the boiling water. Depending on how you like your poached eggs, three to five minutes later, you’ll have a perfectly formed poached egg that slides out of the pod without all the usual hassle. Voila! $9.99 for a two-pack.
4 Pancake Batter Pen
This is one kitchen accouterment that you could probably live without but once you have it, you’ll never want to go back. Especially if you have children or enjoy a clean stove. No more pancake batter drips while ladling batter from a bowl into the pan or skillet. No more unrecognizable attempts at Mickey Mouse pancakes. Make your pancake batter recipe as usual and then pour it into the Pancake Pen. Tip the pen over and start creating your pancakes. Your Pancake Pen is your sword! And it’s mightier than your ladle! Now go forth and make perfectly shaped pancakes. You’re welcome. $9.99. ❖
Spoons ’n Spice Kitchenware | Sugar House Shopping Center | 2274 S. 1300 East, Ste. G9, SLC | 801-263-1898 | SpoonsNSpice.com Devour Utah • march 2020 29
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705 S. 700 E. | (801) 537-1433 30 Devour Utah • March 2020
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The Brunch Issue
Salmon en Croute
Plate it
Gourmandise the Bakery
A
common saying within the food community is, “You eat with your eyes first.” And at Gourmandise the Bakery’s two locations in downtown Salt Lake and Draper, guests are devouring the salmon en croute for the visual appeal as much as the gastronomic satisfaction it creates. Gourmandise owner Vernon Hanssen explains that when they bought The Bakery in 2006, the salmon en croute had been on the menu since 2000 but only served on Fridays. “The dish was created at The Bakery as a way of combining the Catholic tradition of serving fish on Fridays with our desire to use French pastry techniques to reflect our bakery influence,” Hanssen recalls. “It became so popular that we had to respond to customer demands to have it every day.” Today, the salmon en croute is one of the most popular
STORY AND PHOTO BY HEATHER L. KING
brunch items on the weekend and can also be found on the dinner menu daily. The salmon en croute is a labor of love at Gourmandise the Bakery. Chef Clay Campbell and his team roll out the puff pastry and hand cut each piece into the shape of a fish. Inside, fresh salmon from Fog River Seafood in the Pacific Northwest is mixed with an earthy spinach cream sauce along with onion, garlic, salt, pepper and heavy cream and then sealed with another fish-shaped piece of dough before being painted with egg and baked. A delectable lobster sauce spiked with cayenne pepper and tomato paste add creamy richness to the entrée. Hanssen says that the use of heavy cream in this dish, along with many of the sauces on the menu, are key to Gourmandise’s success. “The liberal use of cream and unsalted, high-quality
butter is what characterizes French cooking,” he continues. “Our commitment to expensive ingredients and labor-intensive techniques are what sets our products apart. Who else would hand roll, hand fill and hand cut hundreds of fish every week?” The answer is few to none. Fortunately, diners in both the north and south ends of the Salt Lake Valley can enjoy this flaky, savory treat seven days a week at Gourmandise the Bakery. ❖ Gourmandise the Bakery 250 S. 300 East, SLC 801-328-3330 and 725 E. 12300 South, Ste. A, Draper 801-571-1500 GourmandiseTheBakery.com Devour Utah • march 2020 31
New Expanded Hours Tues. - Sat. 8:00 am to 8:30 pm Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner To Go Orders (801) 906- 0369
32 Devour Utah • March 2020
The Brunch Issue
A Toast to Toast tdk
Don’t overlook this hip-to-humble brunch staple STORY AND PHOTOS BY MEGAN WAGSTAFF
9 to 5 at the rose establishment
I
love a good huevos rancheros to get my weekend going, but the breakfast food that will forever have my heart is toast. Possibly the humblest of ways to begin the day, keeping company with the likes of unassuming oatmeal and black coffee, toast is the David to brunch’s Goliath. Sure, there are glamorous versions of toast, like The 9 to 5 at The Rose Establishment (235 S. 400 West, SLC, 801-208-5569, TheRoseEstb.com), all dolled up with smashed avocado, roasted radicchio, black truffle potato chips, pecorino fiore sardo, pea shoots, olive oil and fleur de sel (throw in a soft boiled egg for good measure). I can’t blame these fancy toasts for trying to steal a slice of the breakfast spotlight. They pull it off marvelously. Then there’s toast that’s just different enough to remind you you’re not eating at home. I’m referring to Publik Coffee Roasters (975 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-3553161, PublikCoffee.com) and their lineup of toast, which includes toppings you’re used to, like jam, honey and peanut butter, taken up a notch with the addition of ingredients like brie, apples and hummus. Weekends at home call for slices of Salt Lake Sourdough from Bread Riot Bakehouse (801-252-5022, BreadRiotBakehouse.com). Find their loaves at Liberty Heights Fresh,
Caputo’s and the Downtown Farmers Market. I top mine with lots of Kerrygold Irish butter and homemade peach rosemary jam, (see recipe below). There’s nothing quite as comforting as these slightly chewy, tangy bites, balanced with creamy butter melted in all the airy pockets created by the natural yeast of a sourdough starter. It’s my go-to indulgence when I want to stay in my pajamas and spend the morning with a crossword puzzle and a coffee.
Peach Rosemary Jam
A better balance of sweet and savory than regular peach jam, this herbaceous blend is also amazing with cheese and charcuterie. Makes 3.5 pints
Ingredients
4 cups peaches ¼ cup fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon lime zest 2 sprigs of rosemary 1 package (1.75 ounces) pectin 5 cups sugar
Process
Peel, pit, and chop the peaches. For easier peeling, place peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds, remove with a slotted spoon, and immediately put peaches in an ice water
bath. Note: if you prefer smoother jam, puree peaches with an immersion blender. Bring peaches and next 4 ingredients to a rolling boil, stir constantly for 1 minute. Add in sugar. Bring back up to a rolling boil, stir constantly for 1 minute. Remove jam from heat. Discard rosemary sprigs and skim off any foam. Pour jam into hot, sterilized canning jars (I use half-pint jars). Leave ¼ inch of room at the top of each jar. Using a small spatula, work your way around the inside of each jar to remove air bubbles. Wipe the mouth of each jar, place on lids and screw on canning bands. Fully immerse jars in a boiling water bath. Process for 10 minutes. Remove carefully and let rest on the counter. Don’t press the lids; as the jam cools, the lids should all fully seal (you might hear them popping as they vacuum closed). If any of the jam lids haven’t formed an airtight sealed overnight, put in the fridge and use as soon as possible. The rest of your jam will be good for up to two years. ❖ Devour Utah • march 2020 33
Spirit Guide
Think Outside the Magnum Brunch cocktails that will make you forget about mimosas BY DARBY DOYLE
34 Devour Utah • March 2020
Hearth & Hill’s lavender margartia
DEREK CARLISLE
T
here’s just something a little decadent about brunch beverages. Really, how often do most of us have a legitimate reason to tipple before noon? While bubbly mimosas and savory bloody marys have long been the traditional workhorses of weekend brunch, there’s so much more to consider for tasty options. Taking cues from international day-drinking favorites, local restaurants and bars have thrived by incorporating Utahmade spirits and other quality ingredients in a slew of creative iterations. One thing they all have in common? They’re all uncommonly delicious.
IN THE PINK I’m not quite sure why margaritas aren’t more popular at brunch. The combo of spicy-sweetsalty is a classically delicious foil for brunchy comfort food, and tequila—especially lighter, unaged tequila blanco—is a fantastic day-drinks spirit. At Hearth and Hill in Park City’s Kimball Junction, the signature Lavender Margarita takes the south of the border sipper on a bit of a floral journey courtesy of their house lavender honey. H&H keeps things local by using Eden, Utah’s New World Distillery Rabbit and Grass Blanco
Agave Spirit shaken up with Cointreau, fresh lime juice and rose hibiscus. It’s a delightful beverage to pair with lighter fare like Hamachi crudo or a salad, but really shines next to hearty dishes like huevos rancheros or a loaded fried chicken sando. Save room for a served-in-the-skillet Dutch Baby pancake to enjoy with those last few sips (or second round) of lavender margaritas. Hearth and Hill, 1153 Center Drive, Park City, 435-200-8840, Hearth-Hill.com
Oak Wood Fire Kitchen’s Aperol spritz
Aperol Spritz Ingredients 1 ½ ounces Aperol 3 ounces Prosecco Redentore Club soda (or lemon-lime soda, for sweeter profile) Method: To a large wine glass filled with ice add the Aperol and prosecco. Top with a bit of soda to fill the glass and garnish with an orange wheel.
Italians know how to live (and eat, and drink) well and with enthusiasm, so it’s no surprise that they invented so many classic beverages made for easy daytime sipping. An Italian perennial favorite of lingering summer lunches is the Aperol Spritz, a drink built right in the glass with a minimum of fuss. A slightly milder and lower alcohol-by-volume cousin to Campari bitter liqueur, Aperol’s name legendarily comes from the Italian word “apero,” slang for aperitif. At Oak Wood Fire Kitchen in Draper, chef Brandon Price likes to keep a couple of spritz options on the weekend brunch menu; these wellbalanced cocktails easily complement both savory and sweet dishes. Oak Wood Fire Kitchen, 715 E. 12300 South, Draper, 801-996-8155, OakWoodfireKitchen.com
PHOTO COURTESY OAK WOOD FIRE KITCHEN
PUTTING ON THE SPRITZ
Devour Utah • march 2020 35
DARBY DOYLE
SLC Eatery’s Peter Rabbit
HOP ON POP
The team at SLC Eatery takes a global approach to their alwaysdelicious brunch offerings, so it’s no surprise that their drink menu is equally adventurous. Bar manager Elyse Evans says she developed this bright and zingy cocktail as a “light and fun alternative to the bloody mary.” Key to any great drink, Evans uses only fresh-squeezed lemon and strained ginger juices. “I wanted to come up with a brunch cocktail that was healthy and refreshing, but with a hint of spice to it,” she says. “Most people don’t associate gin with brunch, but with carrot juice, it was the perfect canvas to build upon.” If mixing this up at home, go local by trying a high ABV kick from Bosun’s Navy Strength gin made by Holystone Distillery. SLC Eatery, 1017 S. Main, SLC, 801-355-7952, SLCEatery.com Peter Rabbit Ingredients 1 ½ ounces gin ¾ ounce lemon juice ½ ounce simple syrup ¼ ounce ginger juice 2 ounces carrot juice Method: add all ingredients to a shaker with ice; shake until tin is frosty. Pour over fresh ice in a rocks glass; garnish with a celery stalk.
36 Devour Utah • March 2020
ON SUNDAYS WE BRUNCH
TONA tonarestaurant.com SUSHI BAR AND GRILL 2013 - 2019
BOSS 2016
Now Open
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Best Odgen Restaurant
2015 - 2019
Food curated by Executive Chef Matthew Anderson
2012 - 2017
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Devour Utah • march 2020 37
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BEEF IT UP
While bloody marys are the drinks of brunch legend, many prefer the savory deep flavors of a Bloody Bull, which is mixed with beef stock or au jus for that little extra bit of can’tquite-place-it umami. The popular version made at Copper Onion is on both the brunch and daily lunch menu and worth a try any day of the week. Copper bartenders combine strained housemade beef stock with horseradish and house pickle juice for a uniquely satisfying spin on the brunch classic. While convention might declare all bloodies be made with vodka, take a cue from our neighbors to the north (Canada, that is) and make this cocktail at home with gin, Snapper-style (a Snapper is usually made with gin and Clamato for a bright profile). I’ve also enjoyed many a Bloody Bull variation in my hometown of Louisville, Kentucky, made with bracing unaged whiskey, of course. Copper Onion, 111 E. Broadway, SLC, 801-355-3282, TheCopperOnion.com
DEREK CARLISLE
COPPER ONION’S BLOODY BULL
Devour Utah • march 2020 39
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Spirit Guide
BEEHIVE DISTILLERY CORPSE REVIVER NO. 2
RISE AGAIN
Know this right off the bat: The Bar at Beehive Distilling usually doesn’t open to the public until 4 in the afternoon, so it’s clearly not a brunch destination. In fact, when suggesting this day drink, head distiller Chris Barlow says the Corpse Reviver No 2 “is about as brunchy as we get.” However, a recent Beehive visit to drink cocktails and sample their very fun food menu (featuring bites like smoked tinned mussels with pickled peppers and truffle potato chips) inspired me to host a super simple conservas (tinned seafood) brunch at home with goods sourced from Caputo’s Market. Although vermouth is the regional standard for sipping with conservas, classic gin or vodka drinks with a bit of citrus are equally delish. I took Barlow’s cue and shook up some Corpse Revivers (of which there are several recorded versions, hence the “No. 2” descriptor), a Victorian-era slang term for morning drinks prepared “hair of the dog” fashion. Wrote Corpse Revivor No. 2 recipe chronicler Harry Craddock in the late 1920s, “Four of these taken in quick succession will unrevive the corpse again.” The Bar at Beehive Distilling, 2245 S. West Temple, South Salt Lake, 801-326-3913, BeehiveDistilling.com
1 ounce Beehive Jack Rabbit Gin 1 ounce Cocchi Americano or Lillet Blanc 1 ounce Cointreau 1 ounce fresh lemon juice 1 dash absinthe Method: Shake all ingredients together in an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Strain into a Nick and Nora or coupe glass. Squeeze a swath of orange peel over the cocktail to express the citrus oils; garnish with the orange swath. ❖
COURTESY PHOTO
Corpse Reviver No. 2 Ingredients
Devour Utah • march 2020 41
Last Bite
tdk
Rose Colored Glasses Park City day-drinking with a side of all-you-can-eat BY MAYA SILVER
Biscuits with Honey Butter
CAROLINE HARGRAVES
BAKED BY tupelo PASTRY CHEF SHIRLEY BORDAS
W
eekends are a precious balance of productivity and leisure. There are errands to run, chores to do and a yearning to blow off some steam. One of the most efficient ways to take the edge off is to adopt the mantra of a wise, Hawaiian shirt-clad songster: “It’s five o’clock somewhere.” As most well-versed in the art of brunch know, booze before noon is capable of reversing hangovers, silencing that nagging voice badgering you about the laundry that needs folding, stopping cases of the Sunday Scaries in their tracks and allowing you to see the world in a more agreeable light. If you’re planning to brunch in Utah, of course, it can’t be “five o’clock somewhere” until it’s 11:30 a.m. here, since that’s when most restaurants are permitted to begin serving alcohol. While this poses an inconvenience, there is an upside: Your day of drinking is less likely to be followed by regret! Those morning hours that would otherwise be used as a “hair of the dog” jumpstart are better used to catch up on chores, fitness goals or just some much-needed sleep. But once it’s half past 11, that stress buster in liquid form is bellowing my name. In my backyard of Park City, there are a few places I like to go for boozy brunches. I like to slip on those rosé colored glasses at Bartolo’s (1241 Center Drive, Ste. L100, Park City, 435-604-0608, BartolosPC.com) with a glass of dry rosé—or a mimosa or Bellini—paired with Ricotta Toast topped with balsamic blueberries and a drizzle of local honey. For more spirited occasions, there’s no better spot than High West
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Distillery (27649 Old Lincoln Highway, Wanship, 435-649-8300, HighWest.com). It’s a bit of a trek, but you can easily make a day of it, sampling whiskey flights, taking a guided tour of copper stills or even going cross-country skiing at the nearby Lodge at Blue Sky. On Sunday, High West offers an all-you-can-eat brunch with smoked meats, fresh fruit and pastries like gooey cinnamon rolls. Turn it into a before-noon bacchanal with the Toronto, featuring Rendezvous Rye, fernet and angostura bitters. When I’m craving a salad in a glass, I head straight to Tupelo (508 Main St., Park City, 435-615-7700, TupeloParkCity.com) a Southern eatery that stocks one of the best bloody mary bars in the state. Embellish your housemade mix and shot of vodka with a cornucopia of garnishes—bacon, hot sauces, crumbled cheeses and pickled everything. Your creation will play well with Shirley Bordas’ buttermilk biscuits and one of the inventive brunch dishes like the lobster frittata with Old Bay hollandaise. If your day-drinking exploits are more marathons than sprints, session brews are the only way. As a frequent Great American Beer Fest award-winner, Red Rock Brewing (1640 Redstone Center Drive, Park City, 435-575-0295) is a great spot for brunch with pints. Try zesty Eggs in Purgatory with the crisp Frohlich Pilsner—and convince any beer-averse brunch mates to tag along with the promise of $2 bloodies and mimosas on Sundays. May your brunch be boozy, your tipple tasty and your weekends more spirited for it. ❖
BLOODY TINI
1oz Five Wives Premium Vodka 3oz Tomato Juice .5oz Lemon Juice dash Worcestershire Sauce dash Tabasco Sauce 1 pinch ground black pepper Shake well w/ crushed ice and pour into celery salt rimmed martini glass and garnish with fresh jalepeĂąo
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44 Devour Utah • March 2020
