READY-TO-WEAR Gilles Mendel yet again is able to create beautiful, romantic dresses that flatter a woman’s figure for his J.Mendel Spring ’11 collection. His inspiration
J. Mendel RTW Spring 2011 Posted Thursday September 16, 2010 From WWD.COM
Having done the costumes this this time came from New York Ballet’s spring for New York City Ballet’s version of “Call Me Ben,” it was no sur“Call Me Ben”, for which he designed the prise that Gilles Mendel’s lovely dresses for J.Mendel echoed a balcostumes. He translated the ballet uni- letic and wistful fluidity. The dance spirit was translated into mostly girlform of leotards and wrap skirt into ish evening looks in a pale romantic palette with short, flirty dresses and short dresses with sheer chiffon skirts skirts with leotard tops, in chiffon or that were tied at the waist with ribbons. jersey — all beautifully and asymmetrically draped and often given The tops were either satin cut on the bi- illusion accents for an effect that was both young and dramatic. Gowns and long skirts were, for the most as, draped jersey or ruched chiffon. part, simpler but just as alluring: a Mendel had a muted color palette of dress, floating in pale yellow handpleated chiffon or a seam-detailed white and light blues, yellow and mocha, skirt in dark nude with a bias-cut top. Of course Mendel added to the deliwhich gave the clothes an ethereal and cacy and fun of it all with those tiny fur shrugs, boleros and airy vests — youthful feel. As a furrier turned designin shadow fox mounted on tulle or Tibetan lamb — the perfect light er, Mendel also incorporated light fur spring touch for a furrier to add to such a successful ready-to-wear colvests, boleros and shrugs to top off the lection. looks for his collection, making it another signature and stunning show.
READY-TO-WEAR Wolf & Badger is a posh boutique located in London, and has earned the title of one of the best boutiques of 2010 by British Vogue. But Wolf & Badger is unique in the sense that they only stock new, start-up designers most people have never heard of. They act as a sort of stepping stone for these designers by not
where you don’t always see that, and leaving them time to concentrate on their new lines while learning about the industry. Wolf & Badger have seized a great opportunity, and can only continue to make money from other new designers who are looking to get their name out there, and buyers who are looking for chic new designs.
only bringing them in profit and getting their name out to the public, but they also coach to the 72 labels they feature. Wolf & Badger teaches them about manufacturing, pricing and buying, and marketing, all while giving them a start in the industry and introducing the public to chic new lines. As a small business the owners of Wolf & Badger have found the perfect niche in which they can profit from. They took a risk as a boutique by not selling already established brands, but they also saw future potential earnings by getting out new lines that have just as good aesthetics as the already validated ones. Plus they are being very helpful
WWD Article Found on pgs. 28-30 by coaching these newcomers, in a market
ious lines to give a more eco-friendly appeal
TREND REPORT The trend I choose was choosing to use unlikely materials such as plastics, and other surfaces to create and give these otherwise basic materials, a luxury appeal. Through various new design technologies and innova-
to collections. Especially with the fact that designers are constantly looking for new innovations when it comes to fabric and materials and anything that can add a luxurious appeal to otherwise tacky plastic raincoats will certainly catch on.
tions many artists have created many works of arts through their techniques, however it is now being integrated into the clothing industry. Many of the pieces can be translated into new and avant garde jewelry, but the techniques are being used for new designs in outerwear, particularly rainwear that gives a more luxurious quality to the everyday shiny raincoat. It is also being weaved into knitwear to give it a more organic feel and silhouette. I believe that this trend will be seen in lines more frequently whether people realize it is in their clothing or not. Right now there is a huge demand for organic clothing, and with a new innovation that can be weaved into clothing to make it look more organic will most likely be used in var-
WGSN Article Found on pgs. 30-31
FASHION OBSERVATION
There was a large Military influence in the Spring and Fall 2010 runway shows.
are now wearing coats that also have a military feel with button details, epaulettes, and
Whether it was pants, jackets, coats, blouses, more severe lines. I’ve also seen less literal or boots, the military inspired look was some- interpretations of the trend with a jacket in a where. Many fashion magazines often in-
navy or charcoal fabric as opposed to the ar-
cluded a “military spread” for their Septem-
my green. People also don’t necessarily do a
ber issues. The most common form of the
jacket, that might do a sweater or tank that
look I have seen is in an army green jacket.
also has the same military feel to it. Howev-
People often pair their jacket with a white or er, while war is certainly not something that charcoal shirt and black pants or leggings.
has luxurious qualities to it, the trend is of-
For a more feminine look I’ve seen the army
ten interpreted with other luxurious items
green paired with a light pink or peach dress such as pearls, or an expensive cocktail dress or blouse, to balance out the more severe jacket. With the cooler fall weather people
and heels.
EDITORIAL EVALUATION
Marc Jacob’s line for Louis Vuitton Fall 2010 was incredibly ladylike and sophisticated, and it seems that the 50’s housewife (Thank you Mad Men) is back, but incredibly modern, and still with a touch of luxury. On the runway the look was of course a little more extreme then what one would see on the street, but many women would take one key element from the look, such as a full, calf-length skirt and put their own personal twist on it.
Beauty Trend: Smoky Cat-Eye The smoky cat-eye is a current trend right now that combines the smoky eye with the cat-eye eyeliner. It’s a new twist on the smoky eye, which women have been looking to update for some time, and the added eyeliner trick is a big hit for night time looks. Even in different colors, though the everyday woman doesn’t make the look to severe.
Animal Prints are a huge trend in fashion right now, and there’s one more place where they have trickled into our lives: in home furnishing. It’s such an easy, and chic way to update your home whether in carpets and rugs, throws, or even reupholstering furniture. While images in magazines are a little more extreme, the mass market is still willing to go with this trend, but usually as an accent piece such as a rug or pillows and definitely adds a feeling of luxury to one’s home.
FALL 2011 FASHION FORECAST Wide-leg/Flare Pants The skinny leg silhouette has reached its extreme in the form of jean leggings, and next year will be the countertrend to that look in the form of flare and wider leg pants. Already it can be seen on the runways for Spring, and it is sure to become a staple by Fall. People no longer want to feel constricted in tight clothing, whether it’s in work wear or denim.
Lighter & Brighter Colors and Prints There will still be the Fall staples of darker neutrals, but there is also going to be a brighter, more optimistic outlook on the economy and fashion. Look for pastels, fall florals and brights to be incorporated into all elements of dress: accessories, tops, bottoms, shoes, and bags. Prints and brights will especially be seen with sheer, lighter fabrics on blouses that go along with the feeling of fluidity, and 70’s bohemian vibe that has be resonating as of late.
Fur, leather, and other Animal Skins To go along with the more positive feeling, people will also wanting to go back to a feeling of luxury. Over the past few years many people have had to deal with the negative affects of the economy and instead want to feel that luxury again, and there will be an even bigger emergence of leather and fur vests, coats, and jackets. Along with other animal skins like crocodile, and snake in accessories, bags, and shoes to bring a more grandiose feeling back to fashion.
Classic Staples Still feeling the effects of the economy, but wanting to be chic at the same time, people will be going back to classic fashion staples, that still make one feel luxurious. The khaki trench, cardigans, the little black sheath dress, and pearls in jewelry, on belts, on shoes and bags. Not to mention those high-waisted wide-legged trousers, with silky bright blouses, and of course a fur jacket to pull off the look.
Red, White & Blue Going along with the classic look and silhouettes many people will be going for, red, white and blue are sure to be a huge staple in American clothing with the 10 year anniversary of 9/11. White, navy, and khaki will be huge neutrals for the season, and even red will be seen as a neutral, but will certainly be prevalent in shoes, belts, and bags. American’s will certainly be feeling patriotic and wanting to go back to those classic staples, but the rest of the fashion world will be giving more luxurious and optimistic trends as well..
CYCLICAL EFFECT
WOMEN’S APPAREL: THEN
Ginger Rogers- Feathers
Grace Kelly- Fur
Grace Kelly- Ladylike
J. Mendel- Spring 2011
Louis Vuitton- Fall 2010
NOW
Chanel-Spring 2011
Women’s wear in the earlier part of the 20th century was very feminine, and luxurious. There was a lot of texture with as with the feather, furs, and velvet detailing, as well as more expensive looking fabric. Recently, designers are reverting their collections back to more luxurious and ladylike silhouettes, fabrics and textures. Feathers and furs are back, more voluminous skirts with waist definition, and more feminine colors and fabrics overall.
MEN’S APPAREL: THEN
Joe DiMaggio- Classic Suit
James Dean- Leather Jacket
NOW
Gant by Michael Bastian- Spring 2011
Jean Paul Gaultier- Fall 2010
In the earlier 20th century men always wore classic, tailored suits. It was a very structured and timeless look that designers have brought back, but with a certain toughness to it. Michael Bastian was particularly inspired by baseball player Joe DiMaggio’s cool and effortless style. Also known for his tough and cool style was James Dean, and in particular for bringing back the leather jacket. Leather has been prevalent in many men’s and women’s lines, such as
TEXTILE/COLOR TRENDS
Cream Chiffon Georgette
Leopard Print Silk
Charcoal Wool Garbardine
100% Polyester
100% Silk
45% Wool, 55% Polyester
Dry Clean Only
Dry Clean Only
Dry Clean Only
Made in India
Made in China
Made in China
Luxurious fabrics are being brought back by many designers this season. Sheer and lighter fabrics such as chiffon and silk give a richness to clothing and a sense of glamour. Ivory and whites are a main neutral for the Spring 2011 season. Leopard print is also bigger than ever, seen on outwear, silken blouses, skirts, dresses and various accessories. In women’s work wear one is seeing a wool garbardine blend as opposed to the regular wool suiting, and charcoal jackets and wide-leg trousers were seen on the runways. Overall, designers are bringing back more luxurious and classic fabric staples for their clothing lines.
VISUAL RETAILING
The first display I choose was Anthropologie’s. It caught my eye right away with the fall themed artwork in the background behind the mannequins. I loved how the artwork looked almost like a fire of leaves and trees. It didn’t distract from the mannequins, but instead I think it enhanced the vintage, bohemian vibe of the store. I think that just the display would draw people to take notice of the store, but then I think they’ll be even more intrigued when they take a look at the quirkiness of the clothing that is on display, and also what they can see from the front windows. BCBG Max Azria was the second display window. It also reflected the store with mannequins featuring their newest and more luxurious looks and accessories in the windows. However, it was warm enough outside that they also were able to have the doors open where they had another two mannequins placed in the center of the boutique, and it also created a more open environment. Customers will automatically be drawn to the latest trendy clothing the boutique is featuring; with the darker clothing and accessories against the white background. The clothing on the mannequin’s ranges from trendy work wear to club wear and will definitely draw any browsing fashionista’s eye who is looking for a more trendier interpretation of luxurious clothing.
FASHION VARIANCE
Givenchy- Fall 2010 Couture
Christian Dior- Fall 2010 Couture
Prada- Spring 2010 RTW
It’s well known that many designers
for he was clearly inspired by roses and bright
draw inspiration from everything and any-
colorful flowers, and leaves found in nature,
thing like nature, architecture, and home de-
and sometimes even opulent architecture. One
sign. Many times if there is a trend in some-
can see the parallels between the extravagant
thing, such as home design, that will also
architecture in the home, as well as in the
translate into fashion and vice versa. There are
classic and majestic elements of a rose.
many parallels in fashion to timeless and ele-
For Prada’s Spring ’10 collection there were
gant pieces that give off a feeling of luxury
prominently featured crystal dresses. Crystal’s
and timelessness.
are timeless, and bring a feeling of luxury to
The Givenchy couture collection fea-
anything whether it be in jewelry, chandeliers,
tures dresses that mimicked the grace and ele- and other home decors. The architecture of the gance of a swan, as well as the added texture of crystal room features very hard lines, but there feathers. One can also see that there is classic,
is softness to it with the serene sparkling of
and rich architecture from the baroque period, the crystals. Again Prada displayed very luxuwhich is often brought back time after time,
rious and classic elements in their collection
for a classic home design.
that reveal a opulence in their collection, as
Christian Dior’s collection also featured romantic and elegant elements,
was seen with the other designs
FASHION DESIGNER
Ralph Lauren is an iconic and classic he managed to make it look expensive. He American designer. When one thinks of lux- went in the opposite direction of the dark urious American fashion, Ralph Lauren is
economic times with luxurious items such as
at the top of the list. For his Fall 2009 collec- velvets, furs, and silks in ivory, and a wide tion Lauren sent down a dazzling and glam-
range of pastels. The pants, dresses, and
orous and pale colored line of suiting, dress-
skirts were somewhat form-fitting, but
es, and evening wear topped with various
draped over the body, or flounced out slightly
furs. His target market is definitely a woman into an A-line beautifully. It was all about ranging from any age, whom has opulence
waist definition with jackets, belts, or fur
and glamour in her dress, and wants to wear
wraps. There was an antique and vintage
beautiful clothing. Ralph Lauren’s collection equestrian feel to the collection with the gold would be found in high-end department
and silver lame detailing, lush knits, and the
stores and boutiques that provide fashion for- herringbone tweeds. Ralph Lauren really ward designer and bridge clothing. His collection as a whole was gorgeous. He sent down one glamorous item after the next. His patchwork suiting was ironic for the economic times, but none-the-less
wanted to enhance the female form, and bring luxury and light to a time when it was something people weren’t really concerned with, and he succeeded in doing so.
FASHION CRITIQUE
Wunderkind Spring ’11: Head-to-toe same print
Rochas Spring ’11: Pajamas as Clothing
Fashion Fringe Spring ’11: Extreme hip emphasis
Osman Spring ’11: Dress over pants
The first fashion don’t I chose was
The third fashion don’t is pajamas as
head-to-toe of the same print. Not only is the clothing. Some people would like to believe model wearing a dress and a jacket of the
that it is expectable to go out in something
same print, but she also has matching shoes
you wear to bed, even if they are very nice
and a matching bag. This goes along with
pajamas, but it’s not. People really do judge
being too matchy-matchy, but especially in
you on how you dress and it’s a sure way to
prints because it’s very overwhelming. Wear- make it seem like you don’t care, and are so ing something that is a head-to-toe look is basically advertising the brand, and one just looks weird, like a walking advertisement.
lazy you can’t even put real clothing on. The last fashion don’t I choose was wearing a dress over pants. While the dress is
For the second fashion don’t I focused a trapeze silhouette, one still should not wear on overemphasis of the hip. No woman wants baggy, or any pants for that matter, underto emphasize a part of her that may be curvi- neath. There is a clear distinction between er than all the others. These shorts are not
the hem length of a tunic and that of a dress,
only at an unflattering length that makes one so one should be able to figure out that that look shorter, but the pockets bow out, and
the hem length is too long to be considered a
there’s gathering on top of that, which is
shirt still. There is also no reason one cannot
ecentially created the most volume and un-
wear tights, or leggings instead even if it’s
flattering silhouette possible.
cold out.
FASHION PROFESSIONS Personal Shopper: In being a personal shopper one works closely with clients who
portant for personal shoppers to be detail oriented, organized, and reliable. This job would be a great fit for me
may not have as much time as the would like,
because I know getting my degree in fashion
or really know how to shop and purchase ap-
and having retail experience will be key. I
parel, accessories, home décor, home furnish-
have four years sewing experience which will
ings, or even something as simple as groceries. help with knowing if things are of good qualiThey need to give exclusive attention to cus-
ty and being able to make any quick fixes
tomers in order to provide the best service,
with a garment myself. I have all the person-
and it is especially important that they know
ality characteristics that a personal shopper
their clients’ lifestyle, personal style, and
needs, and have always been a very compas-
budget. When working with clients one
sionate and caring person who works well
should be a good judge of character, and have with people. But most importantly I know the good interpersonal skills, as well as being a
customers will want to feel confident, and
good listener to get to know the client and to
great about themselves, and I will try my
make sure you’re able to get exactly what the
hardest to make sure that happens.
client wants. Personal shoppers will have to
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keep track of all the dates and occasions the
Fashion Stylist: Stylists are responsible for
client will need products for, as well as a log bringing life to a photographer’s, director’s or of sizing and measurements and favorite brands and stores of the client, so it’s im-
client’s vision for a fashion shoot, magazine layout, music video, television commercials, film advertisements, or
helping put together the right look
help me get a job over someone who doesn’t
and image for a client. They may scout loca-
know all the things I will learn. I really
tions, help create the mood, and design the
think this career would be a good fit for me
set. They borrow clothing, and accessories,
because it is similar to a personal shopper,
and sometimes props in order to make the best and I have many of the personality charactercombinations for a “look”, and then work on
istics needed for the job. I really believe that
set with hair and makeup as well. Stylists
fashion is a form of art, and I think being
need to have an eye for style and upcoming
able to help create a beautiful “look” for an
trends, and knowledge of fashion history, as
advertisement, magazine, or styling a client
well as being creative, resourceful, persistent, will be amazing. and self-motivated while working. They
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should have good interpersonal, presentation, Fashion Buyer or Merchandiser: A fashion and communication skills because in the
buyer must be fashion forward, have a degree
fashion business it’s all about marketing one- in fashion merchandising, and have a lot of self and making connections to get ahead. Like becoming a personal shopper,
retail experience in order to be successful. Being ahead of trends and what will sell is very
having retail experience will be very im-
important to produce the right style and price
portant in order to make connections and be
of product that will secure the most sales, be-
knowledgable about how the retial world
cause if they don’t, it’s up to them to fix it.
works. Having a degree will probably also
They need to juggle multiple steps in order to
product they want and then contact
there are multiple facets to it, I have always
various designers, wholesalers and manufac- had a very strong and dedicated work ethic. I turers to purchase the product. Communica-
love fashion and pay attention to trends, and
tion, and organizational skills are extremely know that being organized and communiimportant so that they are able to negotiate
cating is so important so that I can purchase
prices and discounts, locate the suppliers,
the right product that fits within the plan
and handle the shipping. The buyer is also
and budget I will have to work in. I’m very
responsible for the right advertisements and
detail oriented and am confident that I will
display of the product in order to get the
have enough passion for my work to handle
most sales.
the level of stress and various roles of the
While this job is very intense and
buyer.
FASHION MANTRA To be a personal shopper, one should be organized, detail oriented, and reliable. I have all these traits and would definitely be described as a perfectionist and Type A personality. If something isn’t done correctly I fix it right away, and usually know to have a back-up plan in case something doesn’t work. I never wait to the last minute to do my work and instead prefer to start working on something right away so that I have time to make sure I have the best options and work available. I also perform best when there is structure to my work, but will drop anything if I am needed elsewhere. I will be receiving a Bachelor’s degree in Fashion/Retail Management from Columbia College Chicago, already have retail experience and have been personally shopping and styling friends and family for years. I’m quick on my feet and have four years of sewing experience, so should something happen with a garment I can easily fix it and know how to take care of it, in a way that would not ruin it. I’m a very good judge of character, observer, so I can figure out one’s style pretty easily. I’m a great listener and I think it’s very important to have patience with someone and to be compassionate, and never be overly aggressive. I know the importance of getting to know one’s client and understanding their personal style and lifestyle so that I can provide them with the best products because people are judged on the way they look and dress, and am confident that I will be able to give them the service they are looking for and expect. And lastly one of the most important aspects is that they really feel great, and confident about themselves in the clothing they wear.
Retail Analysis Article: September 19, 2010 Taking a Chance on Talent By FLEUR BRITTEN LONDON — You might expect a fashion boutique to be troubled by rival buyers sniffing around, disgruntled when bestselling designers want to open their own shops, and surely horrified to learn that even fashion’s most devout followers haven’t heard of the labels in stock.
month sees sales of £1,700, or around $2,650. “The idea is that we work as a collective,” says Ms. Maier-Hauff. “If I have a production problem, I can contact another squatter.” On a fashionable street in Notting Hill is Wolf & Badger, a slickly monochromatic boutique open since February, with luxe fashion pieces hanging in spotlighted recesses.
Not so at a handful of new London enterTamara Sariachvili, 24 — whose fashion prises, which are upending the convenlabel, Tosha, is for sale in one of the retional notions of fashion retail to introcesses — is often in the store doing priduce new, unknown designers. vate fittings. With edgy print dresses, twisted blazers and asymmetric accessories displayed in a “Being stocked here has really built up my minimalist, gallery-style backdrop, Squat- business,” says Ms. Sariachvili, who now ters opened last November in the Pimlico sells £2,000 a month in what is her first neighborhood by Karolin Maier-Hauff, a retail experience. She pays 10 percent of her revenue to the store, as well as former Vivienne Westwood designer. monthly rent, which, depending on space, Facing a Catch-22 with her own label (in ranges from £210 to £650. such straitened times, most retailers “I made an appointment to show them won’t take on new brands without proof my graduate collection, and they took me of existing sales), Ms. Maier-Hauff realon last season,” she says. “I didn’t know ized she needed her own sales platform. “London’s high rents have prevented bou- what to do, but they’ve helped me on all tiques working with emerging designers,” sorts of issues.” That included advising she explains. “They reason they’d be safer Ms. Sariachvili to scale down her show collection into something light enough to buying established brands.” wear. To some 72 labels, Wolf & Badger Applying her East Berlin sensibility of co- offers guidance on manufacturing, maroperative endeavor to overcome financial keting, branding and pricing, and it delivlimitations, Ms. Maier-Hauff invited five ers monthly reports about customer comments. or so other young London designers — among them, the women’s wear rising “The main thing this has given us is confistar Louise Amstrup, the shoe brand dence,” says Samuel Kientsch, 23, one Finsk and jewelry by Miquella — to half of the menswear label Braille, now in “squat” in her new boutique for six months. In return, the store takes 60 per- its second month at Wolf & Badger. cent of sales as commission; a good
“And it means we won’t have to fund our
ers say they have achieved monthly sales of next collection with side jobs,” adds his de- £6,000. And Stefan Siegel, the site’s cosign partner, Benjamin Vorono, 29. Outfounder and a former Merrill Lynch investsourcing some of the business, they say, ment banker, forecasts that the £150,000 has left their minds freer to focus on deturnover it generated last year could soon sign, and having received proof that they triple. can sell, the pair will start selling through their Web site, brailleman.com, on Oct. 1. “This is definitely the place to shop if you want to be original,” says Anya Parkes, a “We act as an incubator,” explains Henry 26-year-old London-based art director Graham, a co-founder at Wolf & Badger. who says she spends about £500 a month on NJAL. “It is satisfying when people As well as attending graduate fashion haven’t heard of the label, and good to weeks, Wolf & Badger also receives several know your money is supporting young deapplications from designers each day and signers.” now runs a waiting list. “We want designers to be able to refine their collection, As NJAL offers customers the option to ework out what’s commercial, and be nomail designers directly, Ms. Parkes says ticed by trade buyers, stylists and press,” she sometimes checks specific measureMr. Graham adds. ments with them: “That contact makes it more personal and meaningful,” she adds. It’s certainly attracted attention: British “Some even offer alterations.” Vogue voted Wolf & Badger as one of its best boutiques of 2010, and, in August, But who is shouldering the problems of London’s visionary department store start-up fashion design? As Ms. MaierSelfridges invited it to create a pop-up Hauff was led to believe, wouldn’t these shop. shops do better with blue-chip designers? An online version of the model, the London-based Not Just a Label (NJAL), represents nearly 5,000 breakthrough labels from 81 countries — among them, the menswear designer Damir Doma, jewelry by Fannie Schiavoni and creations by Gemma Slack, Gareth Pugh’s protégée.
One launching pad that has worked successfully since 1999 is The Laden Showroom, with more than 70 young labels using its Brick Lane store as a stepping-stone up from the market stall.
“Swallowing their difficulties probably does impact on us financially,” says Barry The global e-shop, which started in April Laden, its co-founder, “but it’s what makes 2008, takes a 30 percent commission in us different and why people bother coming exchange for its services and advises deto us. Our regular customers come in saysigners on pricing and display as well as ing, ‘What’s new, what’s new?”’ These have providing a free business directory of buy- included talent scouts, international buyers, boutiques, manufacturers, public rela- ers and established designers, including tions agencies and photographers. From John Galliano and Dolce & Gabanna, who its 11 million hits per month, some design-
even produced a twist on one of their designs, according to Mr. Laden.
current limitations of the materials used.
“We’re never going to make millions from Material Inspirations Matt and dry-to-the-touch foam plasone shop,” acknowledges Mr. Graham of Wolf & Badger, adding that, in November, tics and rubber it will introduce an e-commerce site. “With Flock contrasts with vacuum-moulded that, we can scale up; we can put a zero on plastics the end of what Tosha is selling.” MeanMatt Lycra and polystyrene mix for a while, NJAL sees its future in having financial stakes in its most promising young curious new aesthetic designers. Mr. Laden believes having options like these has not only saved designers from quitting fashion altogether, but also from opening their own shop prematurely: “Coming here actually holds them back — they finally appreciate how much cost and effort is required.” Fleur Britten is an editor of The Sunday Times.
MODERN PRIMITIVE PLASTICS: MATERIALS INSPIRATION
By Sarah Dennis, WGSN, 13 October 2010 Mixed-media designer Jane Bowler creates inventive luxury rainwear with her collection of manipulated plastics, for a modern primitive aesTREND REPORT ARTICLE: thetic. Working with recycled plastics and heatwelding techniques, designer Jane Bowler has created a collection of garments that fuse the iconic British mackintosh with autumn/winter 2011/12 traditional Japanese straw raincoats for a modern primitive aesthetic, as highlighted Matt Luxe Milky opaque / New ivory / Beautiful plas- in our spring/summer 2012 macro trends. Her Fusion project explores an inventive tics manipulation of plastics - from shower The Matt Luxe story offers up a luxurious curtains to recycled rubber flooring - that dull finish, as synthetics deliver a fresh uses stitchless techniques of heat-forming beauty in plastics and surfaces. A new lev- and ultrasonic welding to create exciting new surfaces and textures for luxury outerel of luxury is reached through the everwear. increasing use of rapid prototyping and the
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THINK TANK: MATERIALS
Fusion by Jane Bowler, photography by Joanne Warren Echoing our Materials directions Primitive and Preserved for spring/summer 2012, her work also explores some of our key seasonal messages where we look to a strong craft aesthetic and celebrate the artisan, inspired by the natural environment and blending cultural references. Fibrous strips of printing and dyed plastics are attached to knitwear for unruly and organic silhouettes, or cut and layered for basket-weave effects, as seen in our Primitive story, while malleable, amber-tinted plastics are cut or embroidered for a resinous shine and semi-translucency, echoing Preserved.
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